Korea Vs. Men: The Plight of Conscientious Objectors P. 86
May 2011 | Issue 55
Free Daycare for ‘Multicultural Families’
Exclusive Interview
Brooklyn’s MGMT
P. 28
P. 36
World DJ Festival: More Than Just Music
HBC Fest:
P. 32
Ziplining Down in Mungyeong P. 62
The
sexy Hips
Eshe
of
P. 24
Biggest Party of the Year P. 42
This Sandwich Isn’t Disgusting, But it’s No Po’ Boy P. 68
with
Eshe Yildiz
After the dance, Sema asked Eshe’s teacher Mishaal: “Who is that girl? She’s beautiful and she dances beautifully.” Mishaal told Eshe about the exchange a week later, bringing her to tears when Sema left Tokyo. Sema Yildiz, you see, is nothing short of an icon, so the gravity of the complement was not lost on Eshe. “Her dance was so raw, so feminine, so lovely that I just wanted her to stay,” she remembers thinking...
P. 24 ‘I love everything about belly dancing. It’s a celebration of the body. It’s a cultural and musical experience. It’s mind and soul nurturing. It’s a release.’
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May 2011 | Issue 55
58 Cover photo by:
nam jung-ho
28
Chief Consultant: Michelle Farnsworth
8 Calendar of Events
Publishers: Sean Choi and MJ Kim
Music Editor: Summer Walker
10 What’s On
Editor-in-Chief: Matthew Lamers
Travel & Food Editor: Web: Josh Foreman Daniel Behrendt, International Editor: Eunseok Lee Adam Walsh www.hiexpat.com
20 Korea Beat
68
Feature 24 Eshe’s Gift of Dance 28 Free Daycare Groove with Seoulvibes 30 Matthew Clement Arts & Entertainment 32 World DJ Festival 34 The Willing Prisoners 36 Brooklyn’s MGMT 42 Haebangchon Music Fest 46 Former Pop Stars 48 Party at FF, GoGos Community 50 Seoul Foreign School 54 Seoul Warriors 56 Chess Clubs
Creative Director: Dan Thwaits
To contact GROOVE Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552 Disclaimer: The articles are the sole property of Groove Korea. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of Groove Korea.
Food & Drink 68 Not a Po’ Boy 70 Fresh Cheese 72 Making Makgeolli 76 Salmorejo
The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Issue Date: Vol. 7, Issue 5 - May 1, 2011 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No. Seoul Ra 11806
80 Listings 82 Konglish 84 Itaewon Directory 85 Hongdae Directory 86 Final Thoughts: Benjamin K. Wagner, Matt VanVolkenburg
Travel 58 Battle Mountain 62 Ziplining 64 Buyeo 66 Traveling by Train
36 54
info@groovekorea.com submissions@groovekorea.com
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opinion@groovekorea.com
Calendar of Events monday
sunday
tuesday
FREE BEER with Meal Order @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 5:30pm- 8pm Everyday.
Yuri’s Night with Yi Soyeon (Korea’s 1st Astronaut) @ Roofers in Itaewon. Noon-5pm Busan Lotus Lantern Festival May 1-7 Bloody Sunday Quiz - 1st Sunday @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. 6,000 won Bloody Marys and a fun quiz hosted by Mikey! Brunch starts at 11. Quiz starts at 1.
ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT RIBEYE only 15000 Won @ Gogijib in HBC. 1st and 3rd Mondays. The BEST bbq in HBC.
Seoul Jazz Festival @ Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. May 9-11
The BEST Brunch in Town @ Big Rock in Gangnam.
8 Beady Eye @ AX-Korea Born in 1990. No Cover & 1 FREE Drink Every Sun @ Club Mass in Gangnam til midnight
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Deadmau5 @ Walker Hill Theater
Paul Potts & Kevin Kern Incheon
Massage Mondays @ SKY Wellness Center in Itaewon. 1-hr full body massage and get FREE 20-minute FOOT massage.
2 for 1 Fish & Chips Every Tues @ Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon
Ennio Morricone @ Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. May 16-18
All-you-can-eat Pasta Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Tues. Mix and match four different noodles and sauces!
College Night Every Wed @ Club Mass in Gangnam. No cover & 1 FREE drink with student ID til midnight
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Steak Dinner Every Tues @ Hollywood Grill in Itaewon. Only 13,500 won
Avril Lavigne @ Ax-Korea Hi Seoul Festival @ Hangang Park. May 5-10 Jeonju Hanji Culture Festival May 5-8
11 2 for 1 Happy Hour @ NOXA lounge in Kyungridan. 7pm-9pm Tues-Thurs. Happy Hour Every Wed @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon
saturday
World DJ Festival @ Gangsang Sports Park Yangpyeong, Gyeonggi Province
Paul Potts & Kevin Kern @ Jeju Art Center
Kim Kyoungho @ Vinyl Hall in Hongdae
Information Fair @ Seoul City Hall. May 7-8
Seoul Lotus Lantern Festival May 6-8
IPA 2.0 Brewing Party @ Gapyeong Brewery (Craftworks) All-You-Can-Drink BBQ
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4 Suji’s Sky High Pastrami Sandwiches @ Suji’s in Itaewon/COEX/ Bundang. Every Wednesday after 5pm get an extra 3.5oz. of pastrami free for a 10.6oz sandwich
Herbie Hancock & The Imagine Project Band @ Kyung Hee University Grand Peace Palace
All Day Breakfast @ Wolfhound in Itaewon. All day, every weekday.
Arikama @ Double Eight in Sinsa Quiz Night Every Wed @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. Fun for smart people! Free coloring books for dummies
FREE Seasoned Chips with Order of San Miguel Pitcher - Tues-Sun @ NOXA lounge 5pm-1am.
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1 Mr. Big @ AX-Korea
Boseong Green Tea Festival South Jeolla Province. May 4-8
Damyang Bamboo Festival May 3-8
friday
thursday
wednesday
Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Festival May 3-7
May 2011
Paul Potts & Kevin Kern @ KBS Busan
Paul Van Dyk @ Sheraton Walkerhill Theater
Men’s Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Thurs. 1000w of our Geumgang Mtn. Dark Ale and each one of our 24 single malts. Dames welcome.
5 APPLE CIDERS for Only 25,000 Won - Every Fri @ Big Rock in Gangnam
Jazz Festival Every Thur @ La Cigale Montmartre in Itaewon. 7pm
7 Green Plugged Festival @ Noeul Park (Seoul World Cup Stadium) May 1-15 Sara Bareilles @ V-Hall in Hongdae Niels Lan Doky Trio @ Hoam Art Hall
Bucket Night Every Fri @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. 5 shots with mix in a bucket 12,000 won
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RNB Thursday! @ Club Volume. Every Thur
Hongdae International Friends Night @ Club FF, GoGos in Hongdae
Stéphane Pompougnac @ Club Volume in Itaewon
Open Stage from 8pm Every Thur @ Dolce Vita in Itaewon
Kenny G @ EXCO Daegu
Cirque du Soleil Presents “VarekaiI” @ Jamsil Indoor Gymnasium Until May 29
Shooters Night Every Thur @ Gecko’s in Itaewon. Every shot 4,500 won
Inkbomb 2011 – Tattoo Convention @ Platoon Kunsthalle in Sinsa. May 20-21 Daegu Dongsungno Festival May 20-22
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16 2 for 1 Special @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Everyday 7-10pm
The Drums @ V-Hall in Hongdae History of Rock Every Sun @ The Bungalow in Itaewon. 8pm
Texas Hold’em in Busan Mon-Sun after 6pm. playpokerinbusan@hotmail.com
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Movie Night - Every Sun @ NOXA lounge. 10pm-midnight Drunken Chicken Night @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
23 Icheon Ceramic Festival @ Seolbong Park and Doyle Village April 25-May 16
Maroon Five @ Olympic Park Gymnasium
Maroon Five @ KBA Hall in Busan
Wiretap in My Ear @ Haeundae Cultural Center in Busan
DJ Koo @ Club Vera in Hongdae
Wing Night Every Tues @ Nashville in Itaewon. 250won/wing. 5-8pm
Spoken Word/Stand Up Comedy, Poetry Every Wed @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon 8-11pm
Ulsan Whale Festival May 26-29
FREE Cheese Plate with Order of Bottle of Wine - Every Fri, Sat @ NOXA lounge. 5pm-1am.
Cookin’ Nanta Open Run
Wing Night @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon. 10 for 3,000won
Drag Bingo Night Every Fri @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. 9pm
24 Wing Night Every Tues @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. HALF price with NEW flavors. BBQ Night Every Tues @ Roofers in Itaewon BBQ Steak + beer = 12,000 won
Cookin’ Nanta Open run. nanta.co.kr
Guinness Day Every Tues @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
29 8/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
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Open Mic Every Tues @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon
Poker Tournament Every Wed @ Fence in Nonhyun
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What’s On May 2011
Events Through May 15 Anjee DiSanto photo exhibit May 2-7 Children’s Week at British Council May 4 Book swap at Busan’s Soul Trane May 6-8 World DJ Festival — P. 32
World-Class Tattoo Artists in Seoul by groove staff SEOUL — Looking to get a tattoo from a world-renowned artist? You’re in luck. Ink Bomb Tattoo Convention will take place at Platoon Kunsthale in Seoul, May 20-21, highlighting Korea’s world-class tattoo artists. This is the third Ink Bomb held this year and world famous tattoo artists from around the world including Korea, the United States, Japan, and Spain will be there. International tattoo convention, the largest event domestically, will provide 40 tattoo booths and two tattoo supply booths. Ink Bomb Tattoo Convention will be held at Platoon in Gangnam-gu. Tickets cost 30,000 won for one day or 50,000 won for two. Advance tickets cost 25,000 won for one day or 45,000 won for two. For more information, go to www.inkbomb.co.kr; to purchase tickets, e-mail inkbombkorea@gmail.com
Schedule May 20 • 2 p.m. LIVE PAINTING • 3 p.m. SKATEBOARD DEMON SHOW • 4 p.m. SNEAKER LIVE CUSTOM SHOW • 6 p.m. LIVE BAND (KINGSTON RUDIESKA // THE ROCKTIGERS) May 21 • 2 p.m. KOREA TRADITIONAL LIVE TATTOOING • 3 p.m. SKATEBOARD DEMON SHOW • 3 p.m. LIVE BODY PAINTING • 8 p.m. TATTOO CONTEST
Warmin’ Up for RocKorea by groove staff SEOUL — RocKorea presents a special warm-up show on May 28 to showcase some of the bands performing during the Midan City Indie Rock show on June 4. The sets start at 11 p.m. and goes until 3 a.m. at DGBD in Hongdae. Bands performing will be providing a teaser set of what to expect the following weekend on the Main Stage June 4-5 during RocKorea’s Indie Rock Tribute Concert. A few of the artists showing at club DGDB are Over the Hill and Far Away, Fully Completely, L.R.D. Band, R.U. Estranged, and The Tattles. More information can be found at www.rockorea.com
10/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
May 7 International culture festival at Seoul Plaza May 7-8 Information Fair in Mugyodong-gil for newly arrived foreign families May 13-15 International Improv Festival May 13-28 Sven Schelwach exhibit “Contemporary Traditions” May 15 Book swap at Haeundae Wolfhound May 20 Hongdae International Friends Night — P. 48 May 21 HBC Fest — P. 42 May 21 Eshe Yildiz’s China Sendoff Party — P. 24 May 28 Seoul Players present “You Are Not Alone”
What’s On
What’s On
May 2011
May 2011
photo by michelle farley
Players With Heart: Biggest Outreach Initiative Ever By Tess Bercan SEOUL — Seoul Players will hold its biggest outreach initiative to date, You Are Not Alone, to explore community togetherness and raise funds for charity. It will run from late May to early June. It will also be their largest-ever charity fundraiser. Half of the proceeds from each 15,000 won ticket will go to Habitat for Humanity, House of Sharing, and funds will be routed to Japan through Doctors Without Borders. “With the three charities involved, this is our biggest outreach initiative ever,” said Jessica Adel, public outreach director. For many expats, Seoul Players offers a place to express a creative pursuit. “For me personally, Seoul Players has allowed me to continue my passion — theater, while living and working in Korea,” said 12/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
Meaghan Harding, the artistic director of Seoul Players. Seoul Players is a non-profit theatre company that has brought English-speaking productions to the foreign community since 2001. Adel said that while she enjoys her day job teaching English at a university, the theatre group offers a stimulating, artistic, and inclusive community. “The more you stretch out your fingers into the community, the more you find shockingly talented people,” said Adel. Seoul Players offers inclusivity through opportunities to audition, act, and volunteer. The easiest way to become involved is to go see one of the shows. For the portion of Seoul Players’ audience that do not speak English as a first language, less complex scripts are chosen so intermediate to advanced English-speakers can follow.
In addition to providing a creative outlet, Seoul Players regularly raises funds for charity. Both Adel and Harding express that it is important for them to give back to those around them, and this organization is a great vehicle to do that. The theatre group recently celebrated its 10th anniversary and the showing of The Ravagers. Fifty percent of the show’s proceeds went toward The House of Sharing, an organization that educates society about the sexual slavery that took place on the Korean Peninsula by the Japanese from 1932-1945. At the moment, Seoul Players is a club that weathers good financial times and bad. It has formed strong bonds with local businesses such as Roofers in Itaewon, Seoul, which offers services like rehearsal and performance space. “Our goal for this year is to become an officially recognized non-profit organization,” said Hardin. Attaining official non-profit status allows Seoul Players to become a business so that it can earn enough funding to sustain its organization “We feel this is key to our long term goal, which is to make Seoul Players as stable as possible, so that we can continue producing English theater here in Seoul for many years to come,” she added. Check out the website www.seoulplayers.com for upcoming auditions and events that include opportunities for budding writers, actors, and even for those who have no theatrical experience at all. For booking inquiries, e-mail ticketing@ seoulplayers.com
Schedule What: You Are Not Alone: Cabaret for Good Where: Club After in Itaewon When: May 28; 8 p.m. (Proceeds go to Habitat for Humanity) June 4 - 8 p.m. (Proceeds go to House of Sharing) June 11 - 8 p.m. (Proceeds go to Japan relief) July 24 - Hour Theatre
For the Love of the Process By Daniel Vorderstrasse SEOUL — A designer is reinvigorating the artistic spirit through quality work “in a world where big brands are killing the idea of creation and art,” he says. Focusing on the developmental process with minimalistic influences, Sven Schelwach creates pieces durable in stature, materialistically pure, and possessing innovative twists. Schelwach’s solo exhibition, “Contemporary Traditions,” will run from May 13 to May 28 at Gallery SoSo in Heyri Art Village, Paju City, Gyeonggi Province. Encompassing the full range of his creations from Germany to Korea, displayed works are handmade with traditional methods, maximizing the integrity and quality so important in Schelwach’s labor. Featured in the show will be furniture, digital prints from fragmented pictures of Korea, and the sketches involved in the creation process. “Minimal, contemporary design, meets traditional Korean designs, in a way that makes space for both styles, highlighting the best of each world through careful blueprinting,” he said. Schelwach has been making art since he was 15. Seeking furniture for his room, yet not satisfied with mass-marketed goods, designing and manufacturing quality accessories became his goal. After college, lacking a creative drive at his former job with IBM, he created TAOMINA, a company whose “mission is to fashion long-lasting, timeless and cutting edge pieces, and offer established and emerging artists a platform to enrich their creative process.” He works mostly with wood, metal, steel and leather, but is willing to experiment outside these norms to experience new materials, eventually gaining unique knowledge of their existence. Seeking to expand the company from its German roots to an international stage by way of Korea via Canada, Schelwach teamed up with other emerging artists to expand upon TAOMINA’s mission. The group includes American sculptor Jason C. Mehl, American designer Craig McIntosh and Korean painter Yang Ju-im. TAOMINA organizes numerous gallery exhibitions and is available for commissioned work. Alongside Schelwach’s solo exhibition in May, group members will partake in the Handmade Korea Fair with IAC (International Artists
Community) participants at COEX in mid-July and a group show will be featured at Gallery Golmok in Itaewon, Seoul, in late-August. A Korean influence is significant to Schelwach because of an emotional affection for the country and its people. Everything from Korean food to its easily accessible countryside saturated with natural beauty captivates him. He is also an InterNations Ambassador to other expats through www.internations.org. For more information on the artist, Sven Schelwach, or TAOMINA, visit the website www.taomina.com. For more information on the upcoming exhibit and location of Gallery SoSo, visit the website www.gallerysoso.com
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/13
What’s On May 2011
What’s On May 2011
Going the Extra 26 Miles By Tori Elliott JEONJU, North Jeolla Province — Terry Lyons is an unassuming man. Despite having lived in the community for over 10 years, the reserved Englishman is relatively unknown outside of wine and charitable circles. His narrow frame and wispy wit leave one contemplating just how likely it is that he will complete a grueling 42 kilometer (26 miles) trek in the springtime sun. But he will. And it won’t be the first time. Last year Lyons completed the Gunsan marathon in a bid to raise money and awareness on behalf of 7-year-old Esther Park, who was left in the care of Holt orphanage as an infant. “Esther was so pale and tiny. I often looked at her and thought of the things that we take for granted that she will never have,” Lyons said of his first visit to the orphanage. It was hard to keep smiling. Even now when I get to hold her I sometimes have to clench my teeth and swallow to keep myself from crying. It doesn’t always work.” His journey was followed from start to finish by a local television channel who deemed his pledge docuworthy. The appearance of the mayor, along with other local dignitaries, and the encouragement of fellow runners pushed Lyons on to the finish line. Back home in sleepy Jeonju, his fellow expats whipped up donations at a regular monthly event. Park was born with the tragic defect of an Imperforate Anus. No one has seen or heard of her mother since she arrived at Holt seven years ago. To date, the annual cost of Esther’s treatment is running into eight-digit figures. Despite the kindness of staff and individuals within Jeonbuk University Hospital, the orphanage simply cannot cope with the costs of her treatment. As Park grows, so too does her plight. This year, Lyons has created his own course along a picturesque Jeonju stream. In keeping with the charitable nature of Jeonju’s expat community, teams of volunteers are already jostling to take part in May 28 marathon – not for any prize other than the satisfaction of giving. Scheduled events and fundraisers in the lead up to Jeonju River Walk will make certain that Park has the money to continue her intensive treatments for the time being. In addition to the day-to-day expenditure, the orphanage has to find money for Esther’s monthly visits to the hospital. If there is not enough money in a month, Lyons said that Esther’s condition worsens. “The additional 250,000 won ($230) for each growth hormone injection has substantially increased the cost and consequently the risk to Esther.” What Lyons needs now is support, he says. His message is one of benevolence and will. And his hope, along with that of his supporters, is that this message will spread to all who have been touched by someone less fortunate than themselves. “As it is unlikely that she will be any healthier than she is now, I made a promise to her. For as long as I am able, I will walk a marathon every year to raise money for her.”
Scheduled events and fundraisers in the lead up to Jeonju River Walk will make certain that Park has the money to continue her intensive treatments for the time being.
To support Esther Park, Terry Lyons and the Jeonju River Walk, please search “Jeonju River Walk” on Facebook.
14/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
Local Company Performs a Mozart Classic By Rebecca Bredin SEOUL — May 7 marks a very special performance for The Camarata Music Company. They will perform Mozart’s Requiem, the work that was left incomplete at the untimely death of the composer to be finished later on by one of his students. The Camarata Music Company has been an active part of the Seoul music scene since 2009. This non-profit organization’s aim is to bring high-quality classical music to the people of South Korea with a blend of well-known and lesser-known works. CMC was created to help give aspiring classical musicians in Korea the chance to build their experience and technique. The company, which started as a small choir back in December 2009, has grown to over 400 members, two separate choirs and an orchestra. The chorale performs three main concerts throughout the year, building up to the annual performance of Handel’s Messiah in December. The newly formed Chamber Singers perform throughout the year, both with the main chorale group of CMC, and at other events such as fundraisers, lecture concerts, business events and private parties. The orchestra is a semi-professional group. They perform along with the chorale during their performances, including the spring concert and the year-end production of Messiah. Along with their musical work, CMC strongly believes in giving back to the community by sharing their passion and talent. The Camarata Outreach Program works with orphanages throughout the area, helping bring the gift of music to those who may not have the opportunity to study music otherwise. The company currently offers violin and flute lessons to children in orphanages, and has plans in the future to create a children’s choir and orchestra, as well as provide music lessons free of charge to disadvantaged children in either English or Korean. While CMC does have a focus on classical music, they also venture into more modern choices as well. This June, they are putting on “Little Shop of Horrors.” The show will be running June 18 and 19 and 25 and 26, at Seoul National University of Education. Information on purchasing tickets or helping out with the CMC, either through participation or through supporting their charity work can be found at www.camaratamusic.com. Auditions are held throughout the year, and the chorale is always looking for new members.
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/15
What’s On May 2011
Swapping Books in Busan By Roy Early BUSAN — British expats and married couple Drew McCarthur and Emma Clarkson held their first book swap event last November. Now it has a buzz all its own. What the duo thought might be a few people tossing paperbacks between them, became a social event — with a love of sharing literature as its fuel. The inspiration originally came from Clarkson. “I had the idea of starting this up because it was pretty hard to get hold of a decent read in this part of Korea, and back in the winter months I needed some decent books to sink my teeth into,” she said. Like most people who take a risk in organizing an event, they had little idea of what to expect. “I suppose I just thought it would be a few locals in the bar just chucking a couple of paperbacks onto the table. I’m pretty pleased now at how things have panned out and also it has been a great way to meet people,” said an enthused Emma. The book swap is latest social groups to become a hit in Busan. For the first few months, the couple held their swapping event in only one location, Soul Trane in the Pusan National University area of the city. Holding it on the night of the first Wednesday of every month made the bar owner smile and surprised the bartenders with a flood of customers. Turns out people loved the idea of such a meeting during the middle of the week. “Instead of having a bar full of 30 people in groups doing their own thing, as there is a main table (at the book swap), people congregate around it while browsing books and having a drink, so friendships are easily made,” said book swap co-creator McCarthar. Before long Emma and Drew found themselves fielding requests to organize a book swap event in other parts of Busan. Tweaking their evening formula, they sought a location for a Sunday afternoon gathering. That lead them to the ever-popular Wolfhound in Haeundae. It turns out that people love swapping on a Sunday as much as they do on Wednesdays. The organizers are now considering a third event, but for that they would probably need some help lugging the hundred-plus books that accompany them to each event. “If people are leaving Korea, or just feeling generous and like the idea of helping along a community, they can dump their books on us,” McCarthar explained. Donating books to people who will read them sounds much easier and rewarding than trying to sell them on craigslist or koreabridge. When McCarthur and Clarkson started their swap group, they thought there must be like-minded people in Busan. They discovered that not only was that true in spades, but that the kinds of books that are being traded were of high quality. “One thing that we have seen since starting up is that books that are famous in their country of origin get discovered by people from other countries who probably would not have found it otherwise. Someone comes here from the U.K. with a book to read, drops it at the swap, then someone from the States picks up that book and gets to read something that they previously would have never heard of. That kind of thing gets mentioned a lot,” they said. The PNU event in Soul Trane takes place in the first Wednesday (May 4) of every month and the Haeundae event in the Wolfhound is the third Sunday (May 15) of every month. For more information and to check the Book Swap schedule, search “Monthly Book Swap PNU” and “Haeundae” on Facebook. 16/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
White Box Opens in Hyochang Park, to Thespians’ Relief SEOUL — Desiree and Liam Mitchinson are two expats with a dream. Two very broke expats with a dream. A dream, and now a small, white basement in Hyochang Park, Seoul. Unlike other foreign business owners catering to the English-speaking community, the married couple from Australia has decided to open a theatre. That’s right. Not a bar, not a restaurant, not a hagwon. A theatre. White Box Theatre is an exclusive new venue for English-speaking performing arts in Seoul, and the new home to Probationary Theatre Company (PTC). The need arose after the two theatre lovers got tired of seeing shows performed in bars. “Most English shows in Korea are performed in bar venues because until now, it’s been the only affordable venue option.” Says Munro, Creative Director, of PTC “That’s fine, but I think a bar atmosphere certainly limits the kinds of shows you can do.” Liam Mitchinson, partner and Technical Director of PTC, agrees. “The other problem is that a bar owner’s top priority is, understandably, not theatre. Shows and rehearsal times need to be scheduled around football games, happy hour, music gigs and so on. We wanted a space that was exclusively used for the performing arts, to produce good quality, well rehearsed, shows with dedicated actors.” And dedicated the actors were, since the opening event required participants to be locked in the theatre space from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. The concept, “Play in a Day,” which required writers, actors and directors to create a brand new show in 12 hours, was so successful that another has been scheduled for June 18. “It was so much fun, and we got such positive feedback from both the actors and the audience. It was a successful opening event”, says Munro. The next production for PTC is “10 Good Reasons Not to Go Home,” a revival of the hilarious comedy that was staged to raucous applause in 2010. “10 Good Reasons is a play aimed at reminding people that it’s not always as great back in your home country as you might think,” says Munro, the director of the performance. The play features some of the less desirable character traits from back in the west, from the condescending doctor to the egocentric TV psychologist to the rabid lawyer. This play promises to make you gasp with shock, nod your head with recognition, and most of all have you rolling in the aisles with laughter. And for those of you that have seen the show before, PTC have packed a few little surprises in there, kind of like DVD extras.
Social Event of the Year: Queen’s Birthday Ball By Rob McGovern SEOUL — May 28 will see one of the closest guarded secrets in Seoul unveiled. The theme of the annual Queen’s Birthday Ball, hosted by the British Association of Seoul (BASS), is revealed only when the doors of the Grand Hyatt’s ballroom are opened. After a few cocktails of course. With approximately 100 members from the British community as well as members from Korea, Australia, the United States, New Zealand and many other countries, BASS hosts a full calendar of social events and maintains strong ties to the local community through fundraising efforts. The association has a very powerful and well connected philanthropic arm that flexes its organizational muscle all year round, but the Queen’s Birthday Ball is where the big bucks are raised. Last year, a staggering 133 million won ($122,000) was raised in a single night at the ball and they are hoping for a repeat this year. “The ball’s theme always has its roots in British culture and past events have seen the Hyatt ballroom transformed into the Chelsea flower show, the Great British Seaside, there was a Harry Potter theme one year and last year the room was decked out to recre-
ate the glory days of ocean-going liners,” said Ruth Attewell, BASS Welfare Coordinator. “We also think the secrecy around the theme is a good way to build up a bit of excitement.” More than just a great night out, the Queen’s Birthday Ball offers an excellent opportunity to support worthy Korean charities. This year’s main beneficiary will be a home for the elderly in Pocheon, with money going to several other projects, too. The event attracts over 500 British, Korean and other international guests and is sponsored by a number of household-names which give generously every year, among them Standard Chartered, HSBC, Homeplus, Pernod-Ricard, Hyatt Hotels, Chanel, Somerset Palace
What’s On
and Turkish Airlines. Every year the association’s charity committee identifies and agrees on a fairly large project to drive the request for sponsorship, which helps fundraisers and the committee by having a clear target in mind. In previous years, money raised has paid for a play therapy room at an orphanage in Yangpyeong and the building of a multi-purpose facility for the mentally and physically disabled in Mokpo. The money from this year’s ball will be used for the complete refurbishment of two buildings to create a permanent nursing home for 14 elderly people suffering age-related illnesses. Funds raised in excess of the main project’s requirements are divided amongst a range of charities based on requests received and to assist a number of needs but commonly include: children, education, mental and physical handicap, the homeless, women, HIV/ AIDS and low-income families. Of the funds raised at the Ball, about 50 percent come in direct cash sponsorship from corporate donors and 50 percent from an auction, raffles and ticket sales. Some companies give to the main project and others choose to give to one that specifically satisfies
May 2011
their corporate social responsibility aims. For example, this year Standard Chartered have asked to give to a project caring for patients with HIV/AIDS and HSBC to one supporting education of children from low-income families. Both of these are projects BASS introduced them to and which BASS has supported in the recent past meaning that the wealth generated is spread around. “The ball is a fantastic and enjoyable way to raise money, but we are also active throughout the year. We go to see the projects that benefit from the funds raised at the ball to see how the money is being used and so we can meet the people have benefited,” Attewell said. “It’s often during these visits that future projects ideas are discovered. We also have coffee mornings and arrange shopping and cultural trips too.” Tickets cost 200,000 won for BASS members and 220,000 won for non-members, but the ticket comes with gourmet food, wine and a live auction, which this year includes a Manchester United shirt signed by Korean superstar Park Ji-sung, donated by the clubs sponsor AON. There will be lots of raffle prizes and plenty of dancing with a live band and DJ. To reserve your tickets, send an e-mail to bassqbbseoul@yahoo.co.uk. For more information on BASS, visit their website www.britishseoul.com
This limited return season of 10 Good Reasons Not to Go Home will run on Friday, May 20 (9 p.m.), Saturday May 21 (6 p.m. & 9 p.m.) and Sunday May 22 (4 p.m.). White Box Theatre is a three-minute walk from exit 2 of Hyochang Park station (subway line 6) in Seoul and tickets to the show are 15,000 won. To book tickets to the show or to join PTC’s mailing list please email probationarytheatre@gmail.com or for more information go to www.proabtinarytheatre.com
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/17
What’s On
What’s On
May 2011
May 2011
Making Mistakes on Purpose: Hill Tribes Through a Lens
At this ‘Improv-Stravaganza,’ Expect Some Twists By Mark X. Guinn SEOUL — Celebrating its four-year anniversary, Seoul’s premiere improvisational performance troupe is putting on Seoul’s firstever International Improv Festival. Seoul City Improv is producing the threeday “improv-stravaganza” from May 13-15, where they will perform alongside international troupes Improv Boston (Boston, U.S.), Bilingual Improv Group (Beijing, China), and People’s Liberation Improv (Hong Kong). The festival will also showcase Seoul City Improv’s new troupe of Korean-speaking performers. It will include three nights of improvised performances, followed by after parties at different bars in the Itaewon, Seoul area. The shows will be accessible to both English- and Korean-speaking audiences, organizers say. Some parts of the performances will be done in Korean, other parts will feature mimed performance, and the English parts of the shows will have partial Korean translations. Additionally, Will Luera, artistic director of Improv Boston, will hold improv workshops for anyone interested in acting or improv. Improv is unscripted theatre that is spontaneously performed on the spot. Performers go on stage without any preparation as to what they will do in front of the audience. They will then usually ask the audience for a random suggestion to inspire the performance, and act out scenes based on that inspiration. Improv is popularly divided into two styles — short-form improv, which consists of playing games like what you might see on the television show, “Whose Line is it Anyway;” and long-form improv, which is like improvising an entire short play with more focus on dramatic elements like plot and character development. 18/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
The upcoming festival will feature a mix of both styles. One of the most interesting aspects of the festival, say its organizers, is the diversity of cultures and experiences among the different troupes, and how they are all connected by their common interest in improvised theatre. Margaret Whittum, the founder of Seoul City Improv, says that she founded the troupe, “as a performance opportunity for Seoul’s wealth of talent, and also as another entertainment option in a city where, back in 2007, there wasn’t much to see besides live music shows.” She is particularly excited about working with international talent at the festival. People’s Liberation Improv of Hong Kong is a fellow expatriate improvisational theatre troupe. Pete Grella, a leading member of PLI, says that one of the challenges his troupe faces while performing in Hong Kong is that “our audiences here can be very diverse, so we have to make sure to minimize ‘local’ references from back home.” “When you do get that diverse crowd laughing ... and you can see that you’re crossing cultural barriers, that’s immensely satisfying,” he added. The festival will include a couple of bilingual troupes, including Bilingual Improv Group (BIG) from Beijing, China. Jeffrey Schwab, from the United States, is a member of the troupe. He has been living in China and studying the language for the past five and a half years. He says that performing improv in a second language is beneficial. “It helps me think on my feet in everyday life here.” The festival will feature a new Koreanspeaking improv troupe. Seoul City Improv began training this group of talented per-
formers earlier this year. “Performing improv in another language is rewarding because it is totally the same, but at the same time totally different. Language carries its culture and ideas and it is rewarding to experience something totally new,” said Rok Kim, a group member. SCI said it’s happy to have professional troupe Improv Boston as part of the festival. The troupe’s artistic director, Will Luera, will hold workshops on Saturday and Sunday during the festival. Improv Boston’s presence will give people in Seoul a chance to see professional-level improv, and learn more about the performance style that unites all of these diverse troupes. Impro Japan, a Japanese improv troupe in Tokyo, was supposed to attend, but had to withdraw in the wake of the March 11 earthquake and nuclear disaster. As a show of support, SCI will donate a portion of all ticket sales to the Japanese Red Cross, and will collect donations at the door. Seoul City Improv performed at the Tokyo Impro Festival in November 2010, which inspired SCI to host its own festival. Through improvised performances, workshops, and interacting with improvisers from other cultures, performers said they hope the First Seoul International Improv Festival will be an extraordinary cultural event. “I love improv because it is a question mark, not a period. I am totally excited because the international improv festival in May is one huge, mega, thick, deep, and one of a kind question mark. With so much unknown, how can I not be excited?” said Kim. For more information, visit SCI’s website at www.seoulcityimprov.com
By Daniel Vorderstrasse JEONJU, North Jeolla Province — American photographer Anjee DiSanto introduces Burma and Northwestern Thailand’s tribal imagery via “The Hills,” the second installment in a two-part exhibition on the area. Having visited the region several times, on her most recent twomonth voyage she sought to find what is “truly authentic about this world of the long-necked, wider-eared, colorful-frocked women of the hills,” she said. Through photographs on display, DiSanto aspires to portray intimate, touching portraits of inhabitants’ ritual and decay in a world of modernity among a corrupted lifestyle due to the region’s refugee status and government influence. Never having indulged in the technical study of the art form, she perceives this as more of a benefit than a hindrance. Rather than following a photographic formula, the lack of rules allows her to step outside the accepted borders and present her own unique twist. “Some of my best shots, I guess, have been mistakes that I made on purpose,” she said. Growing up reading National Geographic has always been an inspiration to DiSanto’s work, but never limited her to a photogenic realm. Always interested in literary pieces, her interest in photography combusted during excursions to nearly 35 countries. Active in writing, photography has become just as beautiful a medium for displaying her inspirations to others. An active member of the Jeonju Artists Coalition since its inception two years ago, she tries to organize events to showcase the astounding talent contained in Jeonju’s rather small but thriving expat community. A member of numerous artistic organizations, including Gwangju Artist Collective and International Artists Community, DiSanto said she is interested in bridging the gap between the diverse expat fine arts groups in Korea. She has also been an active participant in nearly 10 group exhibitions in Seoul and Jeonju. DiSanto presents “The Hills: Intimate Tribal Portraits,” her fourth solo exhibition. Coffee House Gallery on Cinema Street in downtown Jeonju plays host until May 15. The popular coffee shop located across from Jeonju’s O-geo-ri performance space has been hosting expatriate artwork exhibits for several years. To see more of Anjee DiSanto’s work, visit www.jeefunk.com. To contact Anjee, e-mail her at anjeeteacher@gmail.com. For more on the International Artists Community, go to www.koreaiac.com. Eum/Yang (Yin/ Yang), a group showing of the Jeonju Artists Coalition, will take place at Jeonju City Art Hall from May 13-19. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/19
korea beat
All stories translated by Nathan Schwartzman at www.koreabeat.com — Ed.
Textbook Maker Takes Bribes to Spend on Hookers
Seoul Students are Sleep Deprived: Survey Exclusive to groove korea Seoul middle school students get an average of 6.3 hours of sleep per weeknight, according to the results of two separate surveys announced on April 24. Male students slept an average of 6.5 hours, more than the 6.1 hour average of female students. Nearly 30 percent of the middle school students had skipped breakfast on five of the seven days prior to the survey; 31.1 percent for male students and 26.1 percent for female students. The survey also looked at the students’ diets, exercise and Internet habits. Twenty-five percent of students had eaten fruit at least once per day in those seven days, and 17.7 percent had eaten vegetables other than kimchi at least three times per day; 15.3 percent had drunk milk at least twice.
cookies once a week. •
22.9 percent of male students and 16.8 percent of female students got at least 20 minutes of physical exercise each day.
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32.6 percent of male students and 44.1 percent of female students got almost no exercise at all.
The reasons for not exercising were “not enough time” (66.9 percent of males, 67.3 percent of females) and “I don’t like to exercise” (26.8 percent of males, 25.2 percent of females). Eighty percent of teens aged 15 to 18 used the Internet every day for an average of 1.65 hours per day. They used the Internet mainly for music (65 percent) and games (62.7 percent). For students 17 years of age, average height has gone from 168.9 centimeters for males and 157.3 centimeters for girls in 1980 to 174.3 and 161.5 centimeters, respectively, in 2009. In the same time period, average weight went from 58.6 kilograms among males to 68.8 kilograms, and among females from 52 to 56.4 kilograms.
Nearly 30 percent of the middle school students had skipped breakfast on five of the seven days prior to the survey; 31.1 percent for male students and 26.1 percent for female students.
•
66.4 percent had had soft drinks at least once per week, while 61.6 percent had had fast food such as pizza and hamburgers once a week; 72.8 percent had had instant ramen once a week, and 81.9 percent had eaten snacks such as
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Employees of Korea Authorized Textbook Corp. were revealed to have taken bribes from suppliers to spend on hookers then passing on the costs to parents and schools, raising prices of books by 20 percent to 40 percent. Had the bribes not been received, students nationwide would have paid 40,000 won rather than 50,0000 per textbook, prosecutors said. According to Seoul prosecutors on April 17, 48-year-old Mr. Kang was at the center of the corruption. For over a decade, he held various positions at Korea Authorized Textbook and in 2006 was promoted to a position that involved contracts with suppliers, including printers, etextbook companies, human resources firms, office supplies firms, and suppliers of products for celebrations. After taking the position, Mr. Kang assigned 39-year-old production deputy Mr. Ji, 31-yearold general affairs office employee Mr. Lee, and 36-year-old general affairs office deputy Mr. Lee to 65 suppliers and had them demand rebates ranging from 20 percent to 40 percent. They received the money themselves and transferred it to bank accounts opened under false names. The bribes took the forms of cash, bicycles, air purifiers, gift certificates, and overseas vacations. Mr. Kang and the others invested the illicit money in stocks and also spent over 400 million won on Gangnam hookers over a threeyear period. The room salons in question even sent their bills directly to the suppliers. As time went on, they brazenly began demanding rebates in other areas of the companies business, such as office relocation bills, office supply bills, and fire insurance. Their crimes were not limited to that area. Mr. Kang created a scrap paper collection company, stole 660 million of Korea Authorized Textbook’s paper, then sold it all off. Police blamed insufficient oversight and the use of a monopoly position for Korea Authorized Textbook Corp.’s abuse of power.
South Koreans Busted for Forcing North Koreans into Prostitution Four people including a North Korean defector were arrested in Seoul for imprisoning female North Korean refugees that had been trafficked from China and then forced into prostitution. The international crimes division of the Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency announced on April 12 that it had arrested without detention 40-year-old defector “Ms. Kim” and three others on charges of forcing North Korean refugees into prostitution, which is a violation of South Korea’s Special Law on Prostitution. According to the police, from February 2007 through November 2009 Ms. Kim and the others earning over 30 million won at the expense of 70 North Korean women trafficked from Qingdao, China. They illegally entered the country with the help of the accused and lived in and worked out of the group’s business and accommodations. They are also accused of placing a 400,000 won bounty on the head of “Ms. Jo,” a North Korean refugee in her mid-30s, who escaped the business. Police say they took 20 percent of the 100,000 won the victimized women earned per encounter in the bars they were forced to perform prostitution in. The North Koreans said they were beaten if
they did not earn enough. Investigators found that the South Koreans took advantage of the fact that North Korean refugee women in China have no contacts in South Korea and no regular residence there.
They paid 3.6 million won to Chinese brokers to bring them to South Korea. Police believe that there are more perpetrators involved in the crimes, including operators of brothels in China.
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korea beat
English Teacher Sexually Assaulted in Anyang Anyang Manan Police Station announced on May 19th that it had arrested four people on charges of sexually assault. According to police, at approximately 12:05 a.m. on the 12th in the Anyang 1-dong neighborhood in Manan-gu, 24-year old Ms. C, an American who teaches English in a hagwon, was drinking with the men in a bar. Afterwards, they repeatedly sexually assaulted her at a yeogwan (motel), and stole her cellphone and other articles worth 800,000 won. The Chosun Ilbo, not famous for its fact checking, reported in an article that the men had followed her to her motel, then later in the same article, that the men took her to the motel after she had passed out. “Arriving at the yeogwan they decided on the order in which they would sexually assault her,” according to the police. They told police investigators that they “at first just wanted to drink together, but when Ms. C became very drunk, we got the idea to sexually assault her.” Police said that “none of the four have previous convictions for sexual assault.” The police said that 18-year-old “A” and two others were arrested and placed in jail, while
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They told police investigators that they “at first just wanted to drink together, but when Ms. C became very drunk, we got the idea to sexually assault her.” Police said that “none of the four have previous convictions for sexual assault.” 18-year-old “B” was arrested without detention. The next day Ms. C went to the staff in the hagwon she works at and told them of whathappened, and they contacted police together. Ms. C works as an English instructor in the hagwon area of Pyeongchon and came to Korea six months ago.
Class Action Suits Rising Fast The number of class action suits is fast increasing. And with a saturated legal market, lawyers are hitting the pavement to find clients for lawsuits rather than waiting to be contacted. Lawsuits are diversifying to fields such as power lines, airport noise, flaws in apartments, and poorly-performed breast enhancement surgery. Just over 36,000 taxi drivers from the Seoul Private Taxi Association hired a major law firm to file a suit against seven oil companies last month, including SK, GS Caltex, Hyundai Oil Bank, and S Oil, seeking compensation for rising prices of fuel. Over a six-year period beginning in 2003, the suit charges that oil companies colluded to fix the price of LPG and were fined 688.9 billion won ($650 million) by the Korea Federal Trade Commission, costing consumers over 100 billion won. The law firm has also been retained by air transport companies to pursue a lawsuit against airlines for fixing freight prices. Power companies have long been subject to suits by people living near power lines, but recently they have been rapidly increasing. There were 32 nationwide in 2007 and 139 last year. Through March of this year, there have been 18 such suits. Over 90 billion won has been paid out since 2007. One filed last year brought in 19.9 billion won, of which the lawyer received over 370 million won.
‘Dangerous’ Hanbok Banned at Buffet This story couldn’t be any more idiosyncratic of Korean culture: It brings together a renowned hanbok designer, Samsung Group, a buffet restaurant, a public apology involving a bow to the feet of a victim, outraged netizens and government ministers. Last month, Hotel Shilla Co., which according to its website focuses on “the harmony and beauty of modernism and tradition,” was in hot water over its dress code that apparently banned hanbok, a traditional Korean garment, at its buffet restaurant. A national furor erupted after celebrated designer Lee Hyesun was turned away from The Parkview, the hotel’s buffet restaurant, by a staff member who is reported to have said that the Korean dress was “dangerous” clothing and could “get in the way” of other patrons. The controversy came to a head when Hotel Shilla Co. CEO Lee Boo-jin apologized in person to the hanbok designer. Lee is also the oldest daughter of Samsung Electronics Chairman Lee Kun-hee. Now one of the most luxurious hotels in the country, it opened in 1979 on the instructions of her grandfather and Samsung founder Lee Byung-chull. Despite the apology, public criticism of the Shilla’s misstep ragged on for weeks. There was even talk that the government will step in and sanction the hotel. Culture, Sports and Tourism Minister Choung Byoung-gug said in the National Assembly that “the ministry will take all necessary steps to sternly react” to the hotel’s expulsion of the hanbok-clad customer. In a public explanation, Hotel Shilla Co. said that the staff member in question failed to adequately explain the dress policy and that hanbok are not actually prohibited. The real policy, the hotel claimed, is not to kick hanbok-wearing customers out of the restaurant, but to notify them of the dangerous choice they made when they donned a hanbok at a buffet. “Rumors that the Shilla bans hanbok-wearing customers from entering the hotel are false,” an official was quoted saying. “Anyone in hanbok is welcome and only The Parkview has such a warning policy.” Minister Choung, however, wasn’t satisfied. “A person was kicked out of a hotel because she was wearing hanbok and this was something that should have never happened,” he said at a meeting of the National Assembly’s Culture, Sports, Tourism, Broadcasting and Communications Committee. Netizens, meanwhile, feasted on the story. “How can a Korean hotel ban customers in traditional Korean garments? It’s a shame that it uses the name ‘Shilla’,” one Internet user said on his blog. Silla is the name of a Korean kingdom that ruled much of the peninsula from 57 BC to 935 from its capital Gyeongju. Another blogger said, “The hotel should be ashamed of itself. This is worse than anything North Korea could throw at us.” may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/23
feature
The
Magic Hips of Eshe Yildiz By Matthew Lamers photos by nam jung-ho
E
she was living in Tokyo in 2006 when she met Turkish belly dance legend Sema Yildiz at a workshop in Aoyama, near Shibuya.
‘Dance is a gift from heaven, if you aren’t constantly giving it away, your inspiration might dry up. So I’m always giving to my students and my audiences.’ 24/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
‘I love everything about belly dancing. It’s a celebration of the body. It’s a cultural and musical experience. It’s mind and soul nurturing. It’s a release.’
photos by min young-ki
It was one of those inspiring encounters that most people might let slip by. Not her. There, among a group of about 50 women that had gathered to learn traditional Turkish Orientale Dance techniques, Eshe was picked out of the back row to dance for everyone in the room. Though she was incredibly nervous, her hypnotic hips worked their magic. After the dance, Sema asked Eshe’s teacher Mishaal: “Who is that girl? She’s beautiful and she dances beautifully.” Mishaal told Eshe about the exchange a week later, bringing her to tears when Sema left Tokyo. Sema Yildiz, you see, is nothing short of an icon, so the gravity of the complement was not lost on Eshe. “Her dance was so raw, so feminine, so lovely that I just wanted her to stay,” she remembers thinking. Breaking into the dance scene is incredibly difficult. It takes time and effort to convince people you are professional, dedicated and sincere. In this brand of dance, there are no milestones like in other art professions. Those bonds, especially in the arts, are not easy to form – and most fail. Dancers, said Eshe, need to be vouched for by someone local to the scene. Her budding relationship with Sema was indeed significant. That Tokyo encounter was the impetus for a trip to Istanbul, Turkey, in December of 2009, where she wanted to study with Sema and other famed Turkish belly dance teachers Princess Banu and Reyhan Tuzsuz. She didn’t expect to perform, but she brought her costume nonetheless. It was a good thing she did. There, Sema arranged a performance for Eshe at Gar Casino. Before the show, Eshe was nervous because Sema had been insisting she drink raki (it’s Turkey’s version of soju, but it’s much more lethal). Sema told Eshe, “I’m the mom and you’re the baby. When mom says ‘drink the milk’ you do it.” She caved, telling Sema she’d have a glass of white wine, instead. Sema ordered red. She may be famous and respected, but Sema still likes to party like a rock star, Eshe discovered. Sema liked the performance so much
that she gifted Eshe the name Yildiz, which means “star” in Turkish. Until then, she had only used the name Eshe. “It was really touching. Sema also commented that I was a natural princess. She told me I am one of her daughters now and next time I go to Turkey I must stay at her home,” said Eshe. “I do miss her.” Skipping ahead a year, Eshe found herself on the same stage as the most renowned belly dancer in the world. In 2010, the American belly dancer Jillina cast Eshe as a performer in her Bellydance Evolution dates in Seoul and Bali, Indonesia. “It’s a touring act made up some of the most famous belly dancers in the world with a backing cast of local dancers. I was dancing alongside belly dance royalty. That was pretty amazing,” Eshe said. Preparation required eight hours of rehearsals every day for a week. “My feet split open from so much dancing, but it was incredible.” Though she won’t admit it – she is very competitive, saying she’s too young to feel like she’s “made it” – dancing with belly dance royalty is indicative of Eshe’s status. “Although I treasure getting to meet, study, and become friends with my belly dance idols like Sema Yildiz, Jillina, Raqia Hassan, and Mishaal,” she said. “I’m proud to have been featured in Apollo18’s “Orbis” music video. They penned the song after watching me dance. It was part of their award-winning Blue album.”
In Korea
In February, Eshe became the first foreigner to open a dance studio in Seoul. Officers at the Korean Immigration Service, however, took it up themselves to suggest she change her occupation to teaching English. “They kept saying ‘Wouldn’t you rather teach English? It’s much easier!’” Soon after moving to Seoul in late 2007, Eshe became a member of world fusion music band Orgeltanz as the act’s belly dancer. Through 2010, Orgeltanz and Eshe performed on Korea’s biggest stages (Pentaport Rock Festival among them), were featured in the country’s biggest magazines (Vogue Korea, Harper’s Bazaar) and made an appearance
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/25
feature on MBC, the national broadcaster. Orgeltanz, however, amicably disbanded last August. Eshe, originally from Hamilton, Ontario, owns and operates Dream Dance Studio in Mangwon, Seoul. In addition to teaching belly dance, it offers hula hoop, hip hop, and swing dance classes. She directs two performing troupes, Navah (which means “beautiful” in Hebrew and “tune” in Farsi) and Mahadevi (which means “Great Goddess” in Sanskrit). Dream Dance Studio, said Eshe, is the only place in Korea offering American Tribal Style and ITS (Improvisational) classes. In this style, dance is created on the spot; no choreography is involved. She says she teaches a body language that students use to “speak to one another. I’m currently writing and teaching my own unique vocabulary.” She also offers the only place in Korea to get Romani (traditional Turkish Gypsy) dance lessons. “It’s a 9/8 beat often categorized as being in the limping or hiccupping rhythm family. It’s an interesting mix of cultural and also a street dance. Many of the moves are inspired by everyday life: doing the laundry, having a baby; taking a bath. It’s a beautiful art,” she said. Who is Eshe? Most people don’t know that her maternal grandparents are Scottish country dancers and teachers. After they immigrated to Canada with her mother, they decided to study and share dance. When they first opened their studio, they would wait in the lobby of the hall waiting for enough people to show up to make a big enough group. Aside from that, Eshe said she’s an open book. “I don’t think I have many juicy secrets. I love everything. I love life. I love Korea. It’s such a blessing to be able to work and enjoy life overseas. I take time in each and every class to say a silent ‘thank you.’” The only secret she has is her age. Perhaps one of the biggest misconceptions about belly dance is that they lead glamorous lives. Eshe said she loves being an artist, but it is difficult: Costumes, music, travel and study can be very expensive (new costumes are often upwards of 600,000 won. “I’m lucky that I can live off of my art. I know a lot of artists who can-
not, so even when they are difficult to endure I’m grateful for my struggles.” Barrels of ink have been spilled over the plight of Korean artists, who must be the poorest among their peers in any developed country. But imagine making a living as a foreign artist in Korea. Yes, Eshe is beautiful, but looks don’t account for talent (and business sense). There is a lot of real work involved in being an artist, she says. A friend once told Eshe that dance is a gift from heaven. “If you aren’t constantly giving it away, your inspiration might dry up. So I’m always giving to my students and my audiences. There are times of course that I feel tired but it’s an enjoyable exhaustion.” In June, she and her girls were scheduled to perform in China, but the Community Party of China shut down the festival and pulled its funding. Nevertheless, Eshe said she is hopeful the show will go on in the fall. “I’m interested in taking dance to the next level with my students. Of course, the causal dancer who just wants to shake their booty is welcome in the studio. But for me, the more interesting and rewarding work is in creating dancers — whether they perform for themselves in their living rooms or on stages around the world. “I love my students. I love my troupes Navah and Mahadevi. I’m proud of the work they do. They continuously surprise, inspire and delight me. I was blown away that they were invited to China with me,” she said. “It’s incredibly humbling that my students were invited to perform overseas. I love everything about belly dancing. It’s a celebration of the body. It’s a cultural and musical experience. It’s mind and soul nurturing. It’s a release.” Eshe’s ultimate goal is to popularize belly dance as a rich cultural and moving artistic phenomenon. “I would love to expose more women to the beauty residing inside of them. “Someone commented this year that I must be the youngest company owner in Korea. I don’t know if that’s true, but it’s fun to hear. I have no silent partners or shareholders. It’s just me.”
‘If you aren’t constantly giving it away, your inspiration might dry up. So I’m always giving to my students and my audience.’ 26/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
‘I would love to expose more women to the beauty residing inside of them.’
Eshe will perform with her troupes on May 21 at Guitar Men & Hippie Girls (formerly known as Vintage Mama). Two shows will be performed, one each at 8 p.m. and 9 p.m. Cost is 10,000 won, which includes one drink. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/27
feature
Free Daycare for ‘Multicultural Families’ Eamonn Ashe, from Belfast, Northern Ireland, and his Korean wife are one of at least 167,000 multicultural families that are eligible for the free daycare initiative. “We need the daycare because my wife went back to work after having our baby,” said Ashe. “It has been a major boon to us and, even though we are not exactly the target family of this program, it feels good anyway to know that the Korean government is on the case and doing positive things for mixed nationality couples.” “Multicultural family” is a legal term in Korea that applies to families consisting of one Korean national and a foreign spouse that holds Korean residency. The government expects 28,000 multicultural children to directly benefit from of free daycare services.
By Matthew Lamers
T
o improve societal integration and alleviate economic disparity, the central government from March extended free daycare subsidies to all multicultural families, regardless of their income level.
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As part of a plan to raise the birth rate and help Korean and multicultural families, President Lee Myung-bak announced in September 2010 that the state would direct 3.26 trillion won to cover free childcare. Korea had one of the lowest birthrates in the world in 2009, with a fertility rate of 1.15 children. The average for Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development countries was of 1.71. It is particularly hoped that the daycare initiative helps multicultural families involving Korean men and foreign women, which account for the vast majority of such families. Last year, the Ministry of Health and Welfare reported that the average income of multicultural families came in at under 2 million won per month, 40 percent lower than average overall household income.
For Ashe, free daycare is an “outstanding example” of how the government is helping international couples. To deal with the problem of social integration and language difficulties, the government has been encouraging families to put their children in daycare centers. It would also give moms more time to get involved in the community. “So it’s good for mom and child,” said Ashe, father to a 23-month-old daughter. The free daycare plan applies to “local” daycare centers that are usually found on the ground level of apartment buildings. The initiative, however, isn’t without its critics, who take issue with the fact the top 30 percent of Korean childbearing households in terms of income are left to pay full price for daycare, while the multicultural daycare plan is applied across all income levels. “It’s true that even affluent high income earners receive the subsidy because they are multicultural families,” said an official from the Ministry of Health and Welfare. “And it can be seen as reverse discrimination against Korean families.” To apply for the program, applicants should go to their local “dong” office to fill out applicable forms. Valid identification and bank account records should also be presented. “Hopefully, we could get this benefit that is intended to support multicultural families. What we could save on my son’s daycare, I could spend for other things like the piano lessons that’s he’s been asking for or for his Lego hobby or even to pay for auto insurance,” said a Philippine married to a Korean.
Last year, the Ministry of Health and Welfare reported that the average income of multicultural families came in at under 2 million won per month, 40 percent lower than average overall household income.
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GROOVe with seoulvibes
Why did you choose the handle 4Play? A close friend of mine helped me select the name. Seeing that at the time I was more of a warm up DJ, 4play seemed appropriate. It was my role to get the crowds in the mood. Being a warm-up DJ really prepared and taught me how to read a crowd. You wanna keep the room on their feet, surprise them, keep it interesting. I still abide by that philosophy.
and history to them. He incorporates a variety of genres and old samples and fuses it into a tasty concoction. The other many will recognize in some of my sets is Joey Youngman, aka Wolfgang Gartner. He has really been one my favorite producers over the years. His sound epitomizes what Electro House should be. He has a very distinct, phat, charging bass lines that force you to bounce uncontrollably.
What has been your most memorable party as a clubber?
What is the most hilarious thing you have seen behind the decks?
Carl Cox in Seoul (NYE 2004) was the best event I have attended in Korea. I will never forget the countdown and the tracks he played that night.
What changes have you witnessed since arriving in Korea?
fore on the f loor “An audiophile who plays the crowd like no other and his pool sets have become legendary.” We wrote these words about Matthew Clement sometime ago and he continues to exceed our expectations. Clement, aka DJ 4Play, has been an integral part of the scene for years. 4play enhances and stimulates any club he enters and his positive outlook and vibe, whether he is supporting a night or headlining one, is a lesson for us all.
I arrived in Korea in 2002. Then, Hongdae was the place to go. Club Night was in its infancy. Two clubs that really stood out were Matmata and Myungwolgwon. These very intimate venues were the kind of places you could approach anyone, dance anywhere, and do anything. There was a real community feeling back then. Seoul only received an international act once or twice a month. These were events! Then the era of the super club arrived and international acts became the rule, not the exception. Presently we are witnessing a renaissance in Itaewon with clubs such as B1, Function, LUV, and Venue. After-hours seems to be the trend now, so it should be interesting to see what happens in the future.
How would you define your sound? A groovy, funky blend of Big Room, Tech and Electro House is what I spin. I think if you listen carefully to my sets you are bound to find some disco elements and old school samples also.
What is a track that always works for you? Sorry, I can’t tell you that. It’s a secret.
While playing at the Boryeong Mud Festival there were torrential rains and a high tide. Eight people were holding down the tent to stop the water from getting as thousands danced amidst it all. In retrospect, I realized that I almost got electrocuted playing electro.
Do you think technology has helped or hindered your performances? I am really not ready to make the switch to digital DJing. I still enjoy looking in my CD book for a track. I think nothing is more boring than watching a DJ stare into his laptop, playing with his mouse and clicking the sync button. Recently, there has been some headway in digital interfaces, but I am not sold yet. I am sure in the future I will make the switch as the technology evolves and find a system that suits my style.
How do you unwind from it all? After a long night, I crawl into Venue lounge in Itaewon. I find it a more mature, educated crowd, where you can chill out, talk or continue to dance to some classic house.
What advice do you have for aspiring DJs? First, take every opportunity to play with DJs from various genres or those who have more experience. They will push you, challenge you, criticize you, but in the end it will only make you better. Second, every DJ must consider three things: the crowd, the club management, and yourself. Hopefully, all three are happy. Finally, scope the entire club and see what the people there are doing. Are they dancing, lounging or leaving? Focus on the club, not the crowd in front of you.
Who is your favorite DJ/Producer?
What can we expect from DJ 4Play in the future?
At the moment it’s a toss between two different producers. Recently, I have really been enjoying the production of Gramophonedzie. His productions have an air of nostalgia, cheekiness
Find me at B1 or my other residency at Club Ellui. You can also tune in to ‘In da Club’ every Friday from 9:00-10:00 p.m. on TBS eFM 101.3. That is the future for now.
This is a column dedicated to electronic music in Korea. Our aim is to give Groove Korea readers: interviews and updates on what is happening on the peninsula. Feel free to contact the links below for information on clubs, DJs, or events!
www.samurai.fm/seoulvibes | seoulvibes@gmail.com | www.myspace.com/seoulvibes 30/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
ASIA
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Arts & Entertainment
traditional korea: courtesy of world dj festival
photo by david mann
World DJ Festival is More Than Music By Catherine Witten Boyd
iconzmedia: corey malcolm lajeunesse
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The World DJ Festival is about much more than just music. It is a gathering of talented individuals from traditional and modern culture and arts. With the vision of this year’s World DJ festival being “burning man,” the focus is not on seeing, but on experiencing. At World Village, the festival’s cultural component, expect to see everything from belly dancing to body painting. Seoul Fire and Flow is a collective of fire and light dancers from America, Canada, the U.K., Australia and Asia. They are coming together at the World DJ Festival to help share their love of flow. There will be variseoul fire and flow: ous fire and LED performances jeremy tunning throughout the weekend, but the main goal of the collective is involvement. “Through dance, flow artists have an opportunity to share, collaborate, and harmonize with other movement artists and musicians, and to connect with the earth. We want everyone at the festival to be able to experience this.” The artists are making hoops and poi for people to buy or borrow, and will teach their skills to anyone who wants to learn. Frills and Thrills Burlesque Review, a burlesque troupe that has been making people blush all over Seoul for over a year now, will be at the festival spreading their cheeky fun. The girls are performing both on and off stage. It is their intention not just to provide entertainment, but also to involve festival attendees in the experience. The girls have a selection of costumes and are offering festival-goers the chance to get dressed up — including burlesque makeup — and take a souvenir photograph. Iconz Media LLC officially opened in Korea in February 2008. Drawing their inspiration form artwork, hip-hop, and world culture, one popular project they are sharing at the festival is graffiti art. “We wanted to try something new, a new canvas that is alive,” said creator Jeremy Coleman. Artists Klepto & Scotty Soul will be at the DJ festival, ready to share their art on a canvas of your choice. Participants that want to be painted should be ready for it to take one-two hours depending on the size of the tag and the part of the body. Canadian born Belly dancer, Eshe Yildiz, has been “living, loving, sharing and performing “in Korea for over three years. She is performing at the World DJ festival with her troupe Mahadevi. Eshe and Mahadevi are performing an improvised group set called ITS – Improvisational Tribal Style. This will be Eshe’s third year at World DJ festival and her students’ second. World Village will also include henna tattooing, food, comedians, acoustic musicians, massage, fashion, glass blowing, percussionists and parades. Look forward to some artistic collaboration as the performers band together both on and off the stage to join their talents and invite the audience to participate. This years World DJ Festival will be held at Yang-Pyeong in Seoul (Line 5) on May 6-8. For information DJ’s, the World Village, ticketing and camping, go to www.worlddjfest.com
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Arts & Entertainment
The Willing Prisoners Escape to Korea
the willing prisoners performing at the annex in new york city’s les
By DRIPAN The Willing Prisoners are an indie rock band straight out of New York City’s Lower East Side, reputed as one of the Big Apple’s hottest spots for music. Charged with momentum from two EPs and a 2009 U.K. tour the band are now booked to play a string of shows in Korea and Japan, including Moon Blues in Guri on May 4, Daejeon on May 5, and Hongdae’s Club FF on May 6. As the Korean indie music scene continues to gain notoriety, bands from all across the globe are increasingly taking interest in all the Land of the Morning Calm has to offer. The Willing Prisoners are the most recent addition to an ever-expanding cadre of acts that have jumped on a plane and forayed into the Korea 34/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
club circuit. Formed in 2008, The Willing Prisoners consists of Jason Ghoshhajra (guitar, vox), Matt Pincus (drums) and Jim Bisbee (bass). “The drummer (Pincus) and I knew each other indirectly through some friends for a few years. We both happened to be in the same group going to visit Montreal for a weekend in 2007, and it somehow came up that Pincus played the drums,” said Ghoshhajra. “I told him I had bought a guitar a year prior and had put down some song ideas, and joked that we should start a band.” Enter Bisbee on bass and soon the trio was diligently crafting a slick post-punk sound. The fact that the band was formed in the Lower East Side had a huge impact on their sound and work ethic. “It was the site of New Wave with Blondie and the Talking Heads back in the 80’s. There are a lot of housing projects in the LES and back in the 80’s it was a pretty gritty neighborhood,” Bisbee said. While cheap rent originally attracted droves of now legendary NY rockers, the array of hip live venues is what keeps bands and fans alike walking the streets of the neighborhood to this day. The saturation of live music is also a strong motivation to play well; “The crowd wants to be entertained, and they want you to do it during your whole 30-minute set. Otherwise, they can just walk next door to the next venue,” Ghoshhajra said. As a consequence The Willing Prisoners developed a sound that is stripped down and honest, forgoing the samples and backing tracks that have become almost the status
— zach bako
North Korea Kidnapped My Daughter: A Memoir By Sakie Yokota Reviewed by Adam Walsh We didn t land on the moon; 9/11 was orchestrated by the U.S. government; North Korea spent the 70s and 80s kidnapping Japanese citizens to use as culture and language trainers for its spy program. All three premises were considered to be conspiracy theories lacking documented proof, and were reserved for those who had too much time on their hands and let their minds wander. But in 2002, North Korea admitted that they had indeed kidnapped Japanese nationals and the conspiracy theory turned out to be true. One of the victims, thirteen-year-old Megumi Yokota had disappeared on her way home from badminton practice in November 1977. This memoir is written by Megumi s mother Sakie and is an account of the Yokota family s lives and hardships for the duration of the 30 years that Megumi has been absent. The story starts with the disappearance and moves forward, recounting the family s, friends , neighbors and police s endless day-to-day search for Megumi. It goes on to recount heartbreak, betrayal, activism, disbelief and hope. As you read about the Yokota family living in Japan, you find out about bits and pieces of what is known of Megumi s life in North Korea. Sakie Yakota s memoir is a touching read of an almost unimaginable tragedy. It is rare that such a political and contentious issue on the international stage is brought down to humanistic levels.
quo amongst NY bands in recent years. “We don’t manufacture any artificial weirdness to attract a certain group of people; we think our music speaks for itself,” Pincus said. Evidently the trio’s bare bones sound has benefitted the band due to the success of The Willing Prisoners E.P. (2009), a tour UK later that year, the Minus One E.P. (2010) and gigs with Bridges and Powerlines, The Aye-Ayes and other up and coming NY bands. Building on this energy the group are now
The Willing Prisoners Korea Tour 2011 May 4 - Moon Blues, Guri May 5 - TBC, Daejeon May 6 - Club FF, Seoul For more info and updates check out www.facebook.com/thewillingprisoners DRIPAN is a creative events organization that puts on combination art shows/ performances/concerts and works with creative people from across the globe. www.dripan.blogspot.com
set to tour a third continent with their dates in Korea and Japan, with motivations ranging from a chance to sample Korea’s hallowed alcoholic beverages to being greeted on red carpets by throngs of adoring female fans. Rice wine and imaginary groupies aside, The Willing Prisoners’ dates in Korea will offer a rare chance to experience a slice of LES-style rock and roll up close and personal. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/35
Arts & Entertainment
We wrote and recorded it mostly in a house in California near the beach. It’s kind of in the same spirit as Exile on Main St. or something, like the Rolling Stones.
Interview
What Makes Brooklyn’s MGMT Tick Article and Photos By Kathy Kearns After signing with Columbia Records in 2006, buzz about MGMT spread like wildfire throughout the New York City music scene, and soon after to the rest of the U.S and Europe. Five years, two albums and countless live shows later, the band has lived up to the hype. Today, they have emerged as an international success story, their most recent tour bringing them to Asia for the first time, with Seoul as their final stop. Groove Korea sat down with band members Andrew VanWyngarden and Will Berman prior to their performance at AX Hall to find out what makes MGMT tick.
these shows in Southeast Asia for the past week and a half, and I’ve been amazed at the energy and people singing along to our songs. There are even bigger reactions to the newer album than to the older songs, which I don’t think I would have really expected before coming here on tour. So it will be interesting to see how it is in South Korea. And it’s just exciting to play somewhere new around the world. I wish we had more time to see the city, but we’re only here for one day.
Why are you most excited to play here in Korea?
We approached the second album just wanting to write and record the songs that we heard in our heads. We didn’t strategize as to how to become a more popular or bigger band or
I think the most exciting thing is not really knowing what to expect. We’ve been playing 36/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
On Congratulations, some fans were anticipating songs like “Kids” or “Time to Pretend,” which were big hits. Did you want to avoid replicating that sound on the second album or was it just a natural progression?
how to repeat the success of the first album. We really wanted to take an honest approach to it musically. From the time we wrote “Kids” and “Time to Pretend,” six or seven years had passed, so we were different people when were writing the second album. We were listening to different music and we were influenced by different things. I think if we had gone in and tried to make another song like “Kids” or “Time to Pretend,” it just would have been dishonest. It wouldn’t have felt like the right thing for us to do, or the wrong motivation at least. It was confusing when the (second) album came out, that it was immediately tagged as obtuse or experimental, or that we were trying to distance ourselves from fans. When the whole time we were making it, we felt like we were making pop music and we were listening to music that we think of as pop music, like the Beach Boys and Velvet Underground. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/37
Arts & Entertainment
mainstream forms of expression in general. (Andrew) Yeah, it was liberating (smiles). A liberating liberal arts school (laughs).
Who are some of your favorite bands right now? There are tons of bands that I like from the past few years. I really like Girls and Ariel Pink and I really love the Tame Impala album. (Will) I like Violens a lot, Pablo Picasso, Teen, The Acrylics.
Is there a new album in the works and can you tell us anything about it?
Those were more of the influences (on the second album), than more mainstream pop or something.
On Oracular Spectacular, there is a bit of an ironic, tongue-in-cheek kind of tone, whereas Congratulations feels more self-reflective. Would you agree with that assessment? Well, when we started the band, it was about nine years ago and it was kind of an ironic take on mainstream pop music. We were doing these karaoke-style shows where we would sing along to pre-recorded tracks. It wasn’t a joke band, but we never took it too seriously at all. So I think the first album (Oracular Spectacular) has some of that spirit. I also think mood wise, the first album is more mystical and whimsical and carefree in a way. The second album is much more about real people and it’s more personal as an album. It’s more of an honest album. I mean I think they’re both good (laughs), but the biggest difference is just the general vibe, more so than the music. 34/GROOVE 38/GROOVE KOREA/april KOREA/may 2011 2011
With the second album, we were also writing it right after we stopped touring. Musically, it’s definitely more mellow and relaxed and influenced more by soft rock and folk music in a way, but I think it’s darker and more cynical lyrically. For me personally, I think that’s coming from (the fact that) I was kind of in a state of not really knowing what to do. I didn’t have an apartment and I was kind of confused and stressed out sometimes, anxious maybe, about what to do with the new album. But then at the same time, we went to California to record and it was one of the most relaxing, peaceful environments we could be in. And so it’s just a weird combination of all of these different factors.
Can you tell us a bit about the process of recording Congratulations? We wrote and recorded it mostly in a house in California near the beach. It’s kind of in the same spirit as Exile on Main St. or something, like the Rolling Stones. We were all together in this house recording it ourselves. No one there was really an expert sound engineer, so it was
a lot of experimenting. I think that’s my favorite way to record is just experimenting and learning as you do it. We haven’t ever really gone into a studio with a producer and done the hourly kind of session like that.
Some of your lyrics seem playful on the surface, but can also evoke a lot of emotion and are hauntingly catchy. Where do you find the inspiration for your lyrics? Can you tell us a little bit about what the writing process like? It’s weird because for both of the albums we put out, the lyrics were the last piece to make the songs complete. We would have songs completely recorded and arranged and know what the melody was like, but I would still be writing they lyrics. I think it’s just the way that I write lyrics – just thinking about them over a long period of time, mostly keeping them in my head and not really writing them down. The lyrics on Congratulations, I think more so than on the first album, were very personal. Almost every line was something that was very personal and emotional to me. Well maybe
not every line, but most of the lines were really thought out. So going back to the reaction of a lot of the press to the album, they kind of reacted to it like it was something we just threw out, like something we did really quickly. It was really weird, but I don’t want to dwell on that because I feel like we are in a much more positive state right now.
It’s only in the works as far as that we know it’s self-titled, which is a kind of an inside joke. Well, not inside joke, but there are so many bands that have self-titled third albums that we thought it would be clever. But we haven’t started writing or recording for it yet.
Do you want to be producers for your next album? Well we don’t really know yet, but I think it will probably be a similar thing since we liked the way it worked out the first two albums. We have our own little studio in Brooklyn right now so we’ll probably write and record there and maybe go back and work with Dave Fridmann again. Or maybe there will be another producer involved. But I don’t think we want to get ourselves into a situation where we’re in a studio and there’s someone strongly suggesting that we change the songs dramatically or change the sound. I think it would take someone, I don’t know who, for us to listen to. Maybe like if Brian Eno (laughs) was suggesting ideas for songs we would take it into thought. But I don’t know, I think we like doing things ourselves.
Your creativity is apparent not only through your music, but also through your videos, your album artwork and your style. Where do you think your creativity comes from? Did you grow up in a creative household or did it just naturally progress when you were in college? I mean, probably for Will too, but I think our college was a pretty major change for me to become more of a creative person. I would say my family growing up were creative people. My dad is a writer and my mom did photography for a while, but I feel like it was pretty traditional upbringing. (Will) Yeah, college was the experience where we could begin to really explore nonapril may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/39 KOREA/35
Arts & Entertainment
Korean DVD Corner
BY Daniel Joseph Vorderstrasse
May 4
Water For Elephants Robert Pattinson, Reese Witherspoon
Source Code Jake Gyllenhaal, Michelle Monaghan
Listen To Your Heart Alexia Rasmussen, Kent Moran
May 5
Certified Copy Juliette Binoche, William Shimell
IMAX: Hubble 3D
Poetry (시)
71: Into the Fire (포화속으로)
Winner of the Best Screenplay Award at the 2010 Cannes Film Festival, “Poetry” (2010) presents the numerous struggles of an elderly woman receiving meager income working as a housekeeper, while surviving on government subsidies. In addition, she raises a detachedfrom-reality and irresponsible grandson because the mother abandoned him, retreating to Busan following a divorce. To make matters worse, her memory is fadi ng and she’s suffering the early stages of dementia. With abundant struggles encompassing her entire lifestyle, she decides to flee these unforgiving anxieties through a poetry class at the local community center. A self-proclaimed poet since childhood, Yang Mi-ja (Yoon Jeonghee) fervently tries to submerse herself into a poetic environment, but struggles to find inspiration to complete a single verse. After an organized meeting between the parents of her grandson’s friends, it’s discovered the six boys repeatedly raped a girl at school who recently committed suicide. All parties involved agree to provide a monetary compensation to the family, in the best interests of the boys’ future, but Mi-ja mightily struggles to make ends-meet, let alone contribute to the compensation. She must battle these constant struggles to compose poetry before her memory fails and she ceases to exist in a competent manner. While the screenplay accompanied with Yoon Jeong-hee’s phenomenal acting rightfully deserves recognition, a certain element of quality distancing it from other films is lacking. Jeong-hee’s portrayal of Mi-ja is superb throughout the duration, but outside of her interpretation of the script, the film lacks excellence. The finale abruptly ensues leaving the viewer with an open-ended interpretation of the director’s intentions. While the movie did lack superior distinctions, it rhythmically entertains and presents an interesting story applicable to everyone’s life. If you don’t set high expectations before viewing, an entertaining narrative is in store, but sensational expectations will lead to disappointment.
Big Bang enthusiasts can flock to this feature film starring T.O.P. (Choi Seung-hyeon) as student soldier Oh Jang-beom during the North’s blitzkrieg attack of their brotherly neighbors. The only obstacle standing between Pohang and North Korean occupation is 71 students fortified in an abandoned girl’s middle school. Led by recently promoted captain Jang-beom (by default since only three students possess battle experience), the unit must stare death and despair in the eyes under a hopeless realization of stopping a North Korean assault led by Commander Park Moo-rang (Cha Seung-won). To complicate matters, a tension within the student faction exists solely because recently “paroled” miscreant Koo Gap-jo (Kwon Sang-woo), an orphaned gangster devoid from any definition of a ‘student,’ resists authority and passionately defies orders. Previously a blade-wielding murderer destined for work camp, Gap-jo joins the army to avenge his parents’ demise at the hands of “the Commies,” becoming a reckless perpetrator whose efforts inflict more damage upon the students than help he provides. For unity to be achieved, Jang-beom and Gap-jo must find a middleground to co-exist and lead 69 student soldiers, who recently traded textbooks for rifles into overwhelming odds to attempt to answer the question, “Are student soldiers really soldiers?” Portraying actual events and characters, the film creates an emotionally-draining presentation of the student’s personal and physical conflicts. Two hours of blood spilt between the nations separated by two kilometers is revealed for the audience in a gritty war film with all the ingredients an epic battle possesses. While no shocking revelations are to be found, raging special effects combined with prolonged silence for emotional effect create a movie testing one’s ability to remain impervious and unaffected by the unfolding events. It contains all the prerequisites of a war movie including death, despair, and a steady presentation of war’s horrific qualities, so expect to see some gruesome. Also expect an entertaining movie filled with adrenaline and inspiration.
40/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
Leonardo DiCaprio
May 19 Inside Job
Matt Damon, William Ackman
Pirates Of The Caribbean: On Stranger Tides Johnny Depp, Ian McShane
May 26
Kung Fu Panda 2 Seth Rogen, Angelina Jolie
Arts & Entertainment
, s u o m a f n I r o s u o m t s e Fa F C B H on Readies
Haebangch By Conor O’Reilly photos by jeremiah hill
Come May, come music — all kinds of music. In fact, all kinds of live music right in the middle of Seoul, performing all-day long for free in a not-sosecret-anymore location. On May 21 over 80 acts are scheduled to perform at this year’s summer instalment of the now famous (or infamous – you decide) HBC Fest.
42/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
HBC Fest, which takes its name from the neighbourhood that hosts it, Haebangchon, is now in its fifth year. The bi-annual festival is one of the leading events on the expat music calendar, and the unofficial kick-start to a summer packed with music. You won’t find a free and independently organized music festival with as many performers as the HBC Fest elsewhere in Korea. Since 2006, HBC Fest has been an outlet for the hundreds of talented musicians who pass through Korea and for those who have lived here for many years. The festival’s lead organiser is one of these people. Lance ReeganDiehl, who has lived in Korea for 10 years, runs a small business in Haebangchon when he is not planning the festival. Reegan-Diehl initially shared responsibility with local character Jim Gaynor and has been seeking to promote independent music as efficiently as possible – lots of performances in one place at one time. The festival’s musical diversity is proof of the success of his vision. An example of this diversity was given by Seth Martin, a wandering folk singer from Washington who has numerous fond memories of playing at the festival. Seth recalls ending one set with a combination of American folk accompanied by a gayageum, a Korean instrument. “The HBC Fest keeps the music scene open and cross-pollinating in ways enjoyable to everyone with the cross section of styles, as well as the strange and wonderful representation of expat musical counterculture,” Martin said. Martin gave some insight into why it is not just the music that makes the festival. Hae-
bangchon itself is as important for the festival as the music itself. He told Groove Korea that having the festival based in what is essentially a village in a city with so many venues participating at once, gives it a great communal and carnivalesque feel. Last October, the most recent installment of the HBC Fest, festival goers witnessed reggae, hip-hop, punk, plenty of rock, acoustic ensembles, singer songwriters, and a handful of tribute bands, not forgetting The Kimchee Cowboys. Festivals previous to this have had Shakespearean drama, performance artists, comedy and even a whole venue dedicated
Jacoby’s, Le Vert, Haebangchon’s newest bar The Local and The Orange Tree - with its panoramic view of the HBC Fest’s street antics. The way things go with the HBC Fest, there could be more venues by the day of the festival. It’s that kind of festival. Organic would be a way to describe it - a festival with a life of its own is another way. For many, the HBC Fest is more than just a place to listen to music. “I don’t know of any other expat festivals that offer the HBC Fest’s kind of atmosphere,” said songwriter Jennifer Waescher, who has played at the HBC Fest twice. “It’s great to be a part of such a large event with so many other performers and it helps me feel like I’m a part of the music expat music scene in Seoul.” With over 80 live acts performing, hearing new music and finding a new audience is one of the biggest attractions the festival has for many performers. Steve Koons is the charismatic bassist of the infamous show-shockers The Kimchee Cowboys (one of the few bands that have performed at every HBC Fest since it started). “It’s the biggest audience you could hope for. So many people coming and going, but they are always an appreciative bunch. And after your gig you can go out and see the other bands and mingle with everyone,” he said. Koons would know; he has been performing in Korea for many years. For him, the HBC Fest is a unique opportunity to really experience a community of music lovers all in one place. “There’s nothing quite like it in Korea,” he explained, “you can’t get the interaction
The festival’s reputation is now partly its own advertisement. to poetry. The number of musicians and performers has risen steadily and diversified in what almost seems like a natural process of growth. At the first festival in 2006, there were only three bars - Orange Tree, Phillies and the legendary now-defunct Ssen Bar. At that inaugural festival, around 40 acts played. Since then, venues have come and gone. Probably the most significant addition has been the VFW Canteen. If there was a festival main-stage, the VFW would be it. It has the best sound system of the area. Of course, you can’t forget Phillies, recently reopened under new management,
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/43
music gizmos
Arts & Entertainment
By Lance Reegan-Diehl Recording artist & music industry specialist
Mono Cases
Performers • • • • • • • • • • • •
LRD Used Cassettes Richard Babin Rusted Heroes Kachisan John Wade solo Angry Bear Justin Patrick Band Crux Johnny B Earl International Goat Breeders Yvon Malenfant Mia Zepeda Jennifer Waescher Kimchi Cowboys Backus Sejong Boys Seoul City Suicides Nausea Johnny Red Matt Crane
with your audience that you can at HBC. We’ve had people just come up on stage from the audience and jam with us. There’s such a sense of freedom, openness, and camaraderie.” The festival’s reputation is now partly its own advertisement. For both musicians and people who make their way to Haebangchon for the music, the HBC Fest has set its own high standard as a place where people can expe• rience its unique atmosphere. • David Holden, drummer with • festival newcomers Bastards of • Bupyeong, is excited about the • forthcoming festival. • “When we first arrived in Ko• rea and spoke about music with • • expats, the HBC fest would usu• ally come up in conversations quite quickly,” he said. Holden explained further: “Every expat band talks of it with high regard and they seem to really enjoy playing at it an awful lot.” According to Holden, events like the HBC Fest are vital for bands in Korea, especially new bands, as they not only offer a new audience, but also a chance to go and see other bands playing in the same location. Holden sees the festival as a place where people then get ideas to maybe start their own projects. “It can only make the music scene 44/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
CJ Infinite Gardener Cael Anton Chris Wright Kenji Onizuka Rob Roy ghettoGEEKS & Jewish Hustle Dirty 30’s Jordan Stewart G.T. Arpe. Jeff Sinclair The Tremors Sammy Clay Tom Francis Turner Seoul Rhythm Pigs Blue Biscuit Blues Band Sooty Mangabey Tristram Burden Bastards of Bupyeong Seth Martin
stronger,” he said. The HBC Fest has come a long way from the three founding bars in 2006. Always central to the festival have been the venues. The HBC Fest wouldn’t exist if it wasn’t for the consistent support of all the venues that host acts. Throughout the years, these venues have backed the HBC Fest’s organizers with the support necessary for putting on the festival. There is a unanimous standpoint among musicians and festival regulars that the venues and musicians need more support and patronage. “We need to see more people drinking in the bars than out on the street. Give the bars some support. Respect the bands and especially the bar staff, they are working hard for you, and most of all, respect the neighbor-
This month I have some drum bag gear from Mono cases. During National Association of Music Merchants 2011, I was able to talk with the people at Mono cases. I was shown a new snare case that will make its way to market possibly late this year. The snare case has some unique features and seems just as durable as any other Mono case I have checked out. At first look, the light-gray-and-black color scheme has a nice line to the design and equal color proportions. It is super-light yet very durable. The face of the case looks like three circles in one. On the opposite side there are straps, which are innovation number one. This cymbal bag is also a backpack, with straps that can be exposed or tucked away. How many times have you had to carry the cymbals too far and your hand felt as if it would drop off ? This doesn’t happen anymore with Mono. The second innovation is the splash pocket, the first of its kind. Keeping the small cymbals away from the big cymbals means no warping or chipping in transit. They are less likely to slide around on each other causing scratches or to shift in the bag, which could make you drop your cymbals to the van floor in a hurry when they are stacked with other gear. High-grade nylon sleeves separate larger cymbals in the main pocket. Specialized storage compartments put your accessories right where you need them, while protecting delicate finishes. CYMBAL CAPACITY Main pocket - 4 separate slots (choose between 20” max or 22” max) Hats pocket - 15” max Splash pocket - 10” max The materials are super-durable and the company claims: WEAR IT OUT! They dare you to try. Mono cases are built to military specs, using only high-test materials with extreme resistance to abrasion and the elements. Inside lining protects delicate custom cymbals’ finishes, so your gear rides first class, even when you’re in the back of a van. Steel rivets hold the handles on, and the zippers are anti skip. The rubber skid plates on the bottom are solid; no crazy glue used on this part.
More information and other Mono Case innovation can be found at www.monocase.com Monthly Reviews and music advice are provided by – Guitarist Lance Reegan-Diehl. Recording Artist, Producer, and Music Industry Specialist. www.LRDMusic.com He has performed with BOA, Tony Ahn, Ricky Martin, at Major Music Trade Shows, with concerts, clinics and tours world wide. My Festival Dates: HBC May Festival May 21st 2011 www.hbcfest.com RocKorea June 4th and 5th www.rockorea.com
hood,” said Steve Koons. The festival starts from around noon and continues well into the early hours. Support the HBC Fest by buying food and drink from venues that support and promote the festival. Entry into all venues is free of charge. For more details on the festival and a map on how to find your way there, visit www.hbcfest.com or e-mail hbcfest@yahoogroups.com
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Arts & Entertainment
Did I Ever Tell You About the Time… By Summer Walker photos by ronny kick
… I hung out a pop star and didn’t find out about it until weeks later? Funny story. It all started with a piano man in a rather strange bar. The first thing I noticed was the “Since 1990” sign above the stage. I was there to interview the famed Im Hak-sung, legendary piano player, at his venue in Apgujeong. He sat down and responded to asinine interviewer questions and gave appropriate responses. “What inspires you? What are your influences?” After a bit, he got up and wandered away while his manager/wife told us his story. Mr. Im majored in classical piano under the influence of this father, who was a church minister. He continued his classical studies in Hawaii. There, he veered off of the strictly classical road and started occasionally playing what he calls ‘pop piano’. He decided to pursue the side-genre as a career. Since then, he has wowed audiences large and small with his unique take on popular music. Show tunes, rock songs and power ballads pour from his fingertips. Although his style is nitchy, the shear variety of songs he performs causes him to be quite accessible to a wide audience. He was the first pop piano player to be invited to play at Bowdoin Jazz Festival in the States. He plays at the US embassy every year and is a frequent performer for US troops in Seoul. That’s all great, but you should see his bar. “Born” is a little basement venue in Apgujeong
A quick Google search revealed it to be Hong Hwa-ja, lead singer of pop group Koreana. They had a giant hit in 1988 when their song, “Hand in Hand” was the Olympic theme.
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that is heralded as “the oldest live club in Korea.” Its velvet-covered tables host a variety of well-to-do businessmen and a few CEOs of companies you have definitely heard of. Im Hak-sung, the proprietor, makes sure everyone feels welcomed by spending time drinking with each group. The evening we went, he introduced us to his friend who is the singer of a Korean group from the 80s. She wore a feathered hat and told great stories about how she performed for US troops in Vietnam during the war and how she continues to do so now at Yongsan base every Christmas. She gave me a CD and a business card and we tucked into a couple bottles of scotch. Getting back to Mr. Im, when not socializing, he is entranced at the piano. His delicate fingers play the full range of the keyboard while performing variations on the theme of “Lullaby”, a Rogers and Hammerstein medley, or one of your favorite Michael Jackson tunes. Then, he invites his friends to join him. Sax, guitar, bass, drums; an entire band is there, but they rarely seems to play at the same time. Each takes turns next to operatically trained singers who are abso-
lutely mesmerizing as they sing Andrea Bocelli or even church hymns – all accompanied by karaoke tracks. The karaoke doesn’t end there. If you are not careful, you will end up over-scotched and on stage squawking to Bon Jovi’s “Bed of Roses” with their choice of one or two musicians enhancing the norebang midi tracks. I know, because that’s exactly what happened to yours truly on the night in question. Thankfully my new friend in the feathered hat took up the microphone, invited a few others on stage and belted out a beautiful song that everyone in the room seemed to know the lyrics and choreography to. It’s not the first time a local has grabbed my hand, so I was comfortable raising it in the air with everyone else as the entire room linked up for the closing number. A taxi was called, and I’m not sure if I remember getting home. A week or so later, I was getting my usual coffee at the usual coffee shop (Latte King, Hae Bong Chon) and the usual coffee girl gasped when I opened my wallet. “What’s Wrong?” I asked. “Summer, do you know her?” She was pointing to a business card that had a photo of a woman with feathers in her hair. A quick Google search revealed it to be Hong Hwa-ja, lead singer of pop group Koreana. They had a giant hit in 1988 when their song, “Hand in Hand” was the Olympic theme. Since then I asked children, adults, students and strangers about it and each one of them could sing “Hand in Hand” and knew exactly who my new friend was. What a crazy night, and it all started with a piano man. Information about Born Live Music Club and Im Hak-sung can be found at www.imhaksung.co.kr or by calling 02-540-2933
Im Hak-sung was the first pop piano player to be invited to play at Bowdoin Jazz Festival in the States. He plays at the US embassy every year and is a frequent performer for US troops in Seoul.
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Arts & Entertainment
yellow monsters
Party People in the House Hongdae International Friends Night is back for the third time on May 20, which the organizers are unofficially dubbing, ‘Together Day.’ Only this time around, more bands and much more music. An endless lineup of indie bands are set to hit the stage at Club FF and GoGos2 from 7:30 until midnight, followed by a regular, raucous Friday night at these infamous Hongdae clubs. For all you indie music fans out there, Club FF is the place to be, while those more into mainstream hits — head down to GoGos2. Of course, one ticket gets you access to all three venues: Club FF, GoGos, and GoGos2. If your hungry and into traditional Korean rice wine, or farmer’s liquor, GoGos will be serving up all-you-can-drink makgeolli along with an unlimited supply of bulgogi, so you can eat, drink and be merry like the King of Chosun from 9 until 11 p.m. More information about the party will be announced on Club FF’s Facebook page, while also offering a 50% discount on tickets. The World Friends Festival is sponsored by Groove Korea along with Internet café ‘Aksung (악숭)’, the largest online community for rock music in Korea. Be there or be square. gogo star
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Lineup includes: •
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Yellow Monsters - 2011 Jisan Rock Festival participant GoGo Star - 80s-style bubble electro-rock Ninano Nanda - Electro mixed with traditional Korean orchestra WagWak - “The Mumford and Sons of Korea” And many, many more... ninano nanda
Community
1919
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Keeping the Faith: Seoul Foreign School by adam walsh How many kids can say their school has been around for 100 years? The kids from the Seoul Foreign School can
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Included in the thousands of graduates from the school is Ken Jennings, a celebrity whose education is directly linked to his fame. Founded in 1912 by Christian Missionaries, the beginnings were much more modest than today’s SFC. IN 1912, there was only one full time teacher and 18 students while today there are 180 teachers and 1,500 students. It is the oldest international school in the country and the 7th oldest worldwide. It is located on a 25-acre campus in Yeonhuidong. Running from preschool to 12th grade, the school is a picture of diversity. There are more than 50 nationalities currently represented. The cultural mosaic is not lost on its teachers. History teacher Stuart Kent finds the experience a rewarding one. “One of the most rewarding aspects of teaching in an international school like SFS is the wonderful national diversification that the students bring to the class.” He finds the diverse mix adds to the learning environment. “A variety of nationalities in a class brings such a rewarding environment for students to learn and teachers to teach. I have instant access to different interpretations of the “big scope” of History and even interpretations of specific historical events. It allows students to be exposed to the “story” of other nations in real life and is something that I want to enmay 2011/GROOVE KOREA/51
Community
Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for Foreigners in Korea (Submit your banking questions to farnsworth@shinhan.com)
I’m a foreigner. Can I get an international debit card? ~Overseas Spender Dear Overseas Spender, The short answer is yes. The long answer is below:
Types of Cards: There is often a lot of confusion between the seemingly interchangeable terms: ATM card, debit card, and check card. An ATM card can only be used at an ATM or at a bank teller counter. It cannot be used to make purchases at merchants. You need to enter your PIN number after swiping a debit card to make a purchase at a merchant, but you need to sign your name after swiping a check card. In Korea, check cards are more widely used than debit cards, in fact, debit cards are almost never used at all. Most check cards offer some type of benefit or discount at affiliated merchants, while debit cards do not. Be sure to ask your teller about the features of your check card.
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If you have a valid passport you are eligible for an ATM card from Shinhan Bank. If you have a valid passport and Alien Registration Card you are eligible for an international check card from Shinhan Bank. There is no 3-month wait for any type of ATM or check card. The 3-month wait was a “guideline” that the Financial Supervisory Service (FSS) required all banks to enforce in an effort to prevent voice phishing (a scam whereby scammers would call victims and get them to transfer money to a fake account). The mandatory 3-month wait was abolished in 2010. However, some bank branches that do not deal with many foreigners may be unaware that this guideline is no longer in effect. Of course, a teller may use his or her discretion to refuse to open a bank account or issue a check card or offer other bank services to someone they believe to be suspicious. This is definitely not limited to foreigners; all bank customers are subject to a teller’s discretion. In fact, it is a teller’s duty to report any suspicious characters or activity to the branch manager.
Overseas Access:
hance at every opportunity in my lessons. Furthermore it allows students to share their own story, through the lens of their own national identity and the value of this should never be underestimated.” The potential for cultural based misunderstandings is something that is proactively avoided at the school. It is done so through experience and planning says elementary teacher Nick Corben. “At the beginning of the year, we make sure that we are aware of the cultural background of each of our students. We also make sure that the students are aware and sensitive to the cultures of other students. For example, we dedicate special days such as ‘International day’ where we organize learning activities to celebrate the diversity within our school. “We ensure a balance of cultures is represented in the student make-up of each class. When we use examples or models, they are from a variety of cultures. We try not to make one culture dominant in the classroom.” A measure of their success? Nearly all students from SFS will go on to attend post secondary institutions. Included in the thousands of graduates from the school is Ken Jennings, a celebrity whose education is directly linked to his fame. Jennings is the all-time money winner on American game shows and among his accomplishments he also recorded the longest winning streak for the game show Jeopardy. Of all the changes over the years, the school has not lost its beginning beliefs instilled by its seven founding missionaries. The school still values the teachings of Christ. A representative from the school, June Kang, says “Our goal at SFS is to develop students who are well rounded intellectually; emotionally; physically; spiritually; and relationally. We seek to produce “life-long learners” who are prepared to make a significant contribution to the world in accordance with God’s purpose for their lives. We seek to: “Inspire Excellence and Build Character.”
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You can access your Korean account with your international check card at overseas ATMs and use the card to make purchases at MasterCard or Visa affiliated ATMs and stores (depending on which international check card you choose). Be sure that the bank that issued your international check card is designated as your “Primary Foreign Exchange Transaction Bank” before trying to use your card overseas.
Limits: Your ATM or check card spending in Korea is only limited to the funds you have in your account. You cannot overdraw your account in Korea; the transaction will simply not go through. Cash withdrawal limits vary by bank; the maximum per day withdrawal limit at an ATM is 6 million KRW. However, if you don’t make any transfers for one year, the limit will be reduced to 700,000 KRW per day and you will have to visit a bank branch in person to increase the limit again. Your overseas spending limit is $1,000 USD per day, $10,000 USD per month and $50,000 USD per year including cash withdrawals and purchases with your international check card, but you can request an increase to the per day or per month limit from your card issuer.
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“Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for Foreigners in Korea” is a monthly column written by Michelle Farnsworth. Michelle is an 8-year resident of Korea who is currently the Foreign Client Relationship Manager at the Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center – the only bank branch in Korea that is exclusively dedicated to serving foreigners and foreign companies. Please visit the “Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center” on Facebook for more information. Also, please note that the banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea.
You may or may not be charged a fee when you withdraw money from ATMs in Korea. It can depend on a variety of factors including your customer status, the type of account you have, which bank’s ATM you use, and the time of day. You do not pay any fee when you make purchases at merchants with your check card. When you withdraw money at overseas ATMs, it costs $3 USD + 1% of the withdrawal amount. When you make purchases at overseas merchants, you will be charged an additional 1.5% of the purchase amount with your international check card. Best wishes,
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Community
Seoul Warriors Hope to Bounce Back
article and photos By Ben Min The Warriors’ inaugural season in the KNFL began with huge expectations, a league championship and the Kimchi Bowl trophy. But last November, the team ran into a problem against the ADT Caps, losing the semifinal 14-8. A Warriors season that started with such promise ended with disappointment. Turn the calender to 2011. New year; new mentality; new people - same goal: win the KNFL championship and the Kimchi Bowl. “It’s hard to run an expat football team. There are always going to be people coming and going during the year, so it’s difficult to find consistency,” said Jason Braedon, co-captain and head coach. But Jason’s not making any excuses for the team’s shortcomings last year. “We fell short last year because we beat ourselves.” “There were too many mental mistakes,” agreed running back and co-captain, Lawrence Bowlby. “We have the talent to be the best team in the league, but we didn’t execute. There are no excuses this year.” They said the intensity at practice will be raised a few notches this year, and conditioning will be a greater focus. “Last year was a learning experience for me, and the rest of the team,” explained Braedon. “Now, it’s time to learn from those experiences and move the team forward to meet this year’s challenge.” The pressure is on the Warriors this year to come through as other teams in the league are well aware of the Warriors’ talent and desire. The Warriors started practices in April and will have two exhibition games in May, with another in June. Those interested in joining or supporting the team, search the “Seoul Warriors” on Facebook, visit www.seoulwarriors.com, or e-mail to seoulfootball@gmail.com
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Guests Dig Deep at Rugby Charity Dinner By Groove Staff Rugby legends Sean Fitzpatrick and Eddie Jones were in town last month for “The Rugby Charity Dinner” at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. Proceeds went to Christchurch earthquake and Japanese tsunami relief. The April 13 dinner was hosted by both the New Zealand and Australian chambers of commerce in Korea and was located in the hotel’s Grand Ballroom. With over 400 guests in attendance, organizers are calling the night an overwhelming success. Entertainment for the night featured the professional New Zealand kapa haka group Pounamu, who gave a traditional Maori performance. The meal was a three-course dinner with wine and beverages from both New Zealand and Australia. After a message from New Zealand Prime Minister John Key, more than 100 million won was raised through an auction, a raffle and donations. The breakdown of what the night’s goodies hauled in included: “The Reebok Ultimate Sporting Weekend” — which includes two return business class tickets on Emirates, a two-night W Hotel stay and a chance to watch NFL, NBA and NHL games in Boston from VIP seating — raised 24.5 million won. In other auctions, two Rugby World Cup tickets donated by DHL and a signed rugby ball and jersey by Sean Fitzpatrick and Eddie Jones pulled in 1.2 million won and 10 million won, respectively, while a special event sculpture by Jin Lee took in 5.5 million won. Acknowledging the recent tragedy in Japan, the adidas-donated “Fevernova Crystal Ball,” a 14-karat gold-plated official 2002 FIFA World Cup match ball with the Korean and Japanese flags and official FIFA logo, was the top auction prize, bringing in 39 million won, of which 50 percent went to Save the Children and 50 percent to adidas’ Japan-linked charity work. An adidas-provided signed All Blacks jersey also fetched 5.7 million won, while a Canterbury Crusaders jersey with a special message from current All Blacks captain Richie McCaw went for 4.5 million won. Thanking both chambers for their efforts on behalf of Christchurch earthquake support, New Zealand Ambassador Richard Mann said, “I am honored that two legends of rugby would visit Korea on behalf of this important event ahead of the Rugby World Cup 2011.”
Master of Arts in Asian Studies Sejong University in Seoul is now offering a post-graduate program taught in English focusing on the interdisciplinary study of East Asian culture, language, politics, history, economics, philosophy, religion, and education.
Fall semester classes begin on August 29th, 2011. •
Sejong University awards several generous scholarships to individuals who are interested in pursuing a master’s degree in Asian Studies and who meet the scholarship criteria.
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The program is taught by a distinguished international faculty specializing in the major areas of Asian studies.
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Tuition fees: 80~60% waiver depending on certain conditions
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Application period: 2011 April 18th (Mon)~May 12th(Thu)
For more information, please contact: Office of Asian Studies Program, Assistant Miss Yoon(02-3408-3107, asian@sejong.ac.kr) Prof. Jinho Choi(02-3408-3181, jhchoi@sejong.ac.kr) Fax: 02-3408-3550 Admission website: http://www.sejong.ac.kr/eng/
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Community
Medical & Health Info
Chess on the Beach
By Roy Early BUSAN — In the past two years or so, more cerebral ways to socially interact have emerged in Busan. Korea’s second largest city now makes room for the Busan Writer’s Club, Socrates Café, Boozin’ and Politics, multiple trivia nights, and a Chess club. Where better to play chess than by the beach? That is exactly what Ian Wright had in mind when he founded the club. “A friend challenged me to a game of Facebook chess. He won pretty quickly,” he said. Like many, or even most people, Wright knew the basic moves and rules, “enough to play a game.” That friendly contest via the Internet was enough to motivate him to learn more. As the story goes, Wright figured there stood a good chance that others might be interested. Wright tossed an open invitation out to Busanites via social media. And it turned out that quite a few people shared an interest. About a year ago, they started meeting in Gwangali at 2 p.m. on the second floor of Café Pascucci. Located just across the street from the sand, Pascucci supplies a wonderful panoramic view of the beach. Once the weather warmed enough, the group moves their meetings to a Tom and Tom’s coffee shop with outdoor seating on the first floor of the Hotel Aqua Palace. Chess matches can run long, so the group has no specific finishing time. Some participants keep track of each move in a game so that they can return to it the next week for review in an attempt to help beginners learn and help others further their understanding. Some folks just arrive and play, eager to enjoy some mental jousting on a Sunday afternoon. Regardless of a player’s interest, they find themselves more than welcome. “Come as often or as infrequently as you like” seems to be the unspoken policy, but expect a good time when you do. Café Pasucci is located next to Breeze Burn’s on Gwangali Beach. Players meet at 2 p.m. every Sunday. Find out more on Facebook under Busan Chess.
Seoul Chess Club Looking for Members By Chris Backe A new chess club has engaged the minds of some of our fellow expats in Seoul and they’re always open to new members. They meet every Sunday at NOXA in the Haebangchon area at 5 p.m. Lest you think you’ll walk into a room full of people more focused on the game than their fellow person, Alastair Henry reminds that it’s all about the people. “There will certainly be regular tournaments at the various speeds, opening festivals where we will focus on different opening
theories, and inevitably we aim to form a team and see regular nationwide fixtures,” said Henry. The group said they welcome all skill levels, from beginner to grandmaster, and also people who just want to check it out. The group is still pretty small - only about five or six regulars, Henry said, which makes it a perfect time to jump in and get your mind back into shape. It’s not just about playing the classic game, of course. “We discuss various openings and strategies and try and play from different positions,” Henry said. If you’ve been looking to get in on a group before it gets popular, this is a great chance to learn more. For more information, e-mail Alastair Henry at henryalasdair225@gmail. com or make your way to the NOXA restaurant in the Haebangchon area. Directions to NOXA: Go to Noksapyeong Station, line 6, exit 2. When you get to the intersection with the kimchi pots, cross the road to your right.
Pediatrics Serim Pediatrics 02-544-0234 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3. Apgujung stn. Exit 4 Seran Family Medicine Clinic 02-2642-5975 Mok-dong, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul Subway line #5. Omokgyo stn. Exit 2. Cardiology / Heart Specialist Dr.Simon Lee Heart Clinic 02-543-0072 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Dentists Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic Hongdae Clinic 02-3141-0028 Sinsa-dong Clinic 02-3141-0028 SMart Dental Clinic 02-517-6278 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line#3, Apgujung stn. Exit 4 UpennIvy Dental Clinic 02-797-7784 Ichon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Ophthalmologist
Hushu Dental Clinic 02-519-8013
BS Eye Center 02-519-8013 Gangnam Station, Seoul Gangnam stn. Exit 5
Chiropractors
Seer & Partner Eye Institute 02-511-0567 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dream Eye Center Myeong-dong Center 02-779-7888 Gangnam stn. Center 02-554-8400 Obstetrics Cheil Women’s Healthcare Center 02-2000-7119 (Emergency Room) 02-2000-7062 Mukjeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul CHA hospital 02-3468-3000 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Miz Medi Hospital 02-3467-3741 Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dermatologists TengTeng Skin Clinic 02-337-4066 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Sinsa stn. Exit 2 Hushu Skin Clinic 02-519-8013 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Apgujung stn. Exit 3 Nova Skin Clinic 02-563-7977
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Gangnam Stn. Subway line #2, Gangnam stn. Exit 8
Create Wellness Center 02-798-1446 Itaewon, Seoul SKY Wellness Center 02-749-4849 Itaewon, Seoul Oriental Medicine Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine 02-3218-2167 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul INI Oriental Medicine 02-824-0075 Sangdo-dong, Dongjak-gu, Seoul Subway line #7, Soongsil Univ. stn. Exit 3 massage Healing Hands 010-3158-5572 / 02-2071-8090 Itaewon, Seoul Ophthalmologist Samsung Medical Center 02-3410-0200 / 02-3410-0226 Emergency 02-3410-2060 Ilwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yonsei University Severance Hospital 02-2228-5800 / 010-9948-0983 Yonsei Univ., Seoul Asan Medical Center 02-3010-5001 Poongnap-dong, Songpa-gu may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/57
Travel International
Battle Mountain By Flash Parker To travel well is to master the delicate balancing act of preparation. Picture for a moment that sleek leopard-print speedo you picked up in Bangkok and wore for a week on the beaches of Phuket. That same speedo isn’t going to serve you quite so well while exploring the ferret warrens of South Korea’s Namdaemun Night Market. In a similar vein, consider all that neat vodka you picked up the last time you road the Trans Siberian through Moscow; vodka is the wrong sort of spirit guide for a Gobi Desert odyssey. Travel, as I have come to understand it, is about checks and balances. Sadly, I was never any good at economics and I tend to think in dichromatic terms: black v. white; day v. night; Charlie Sheen v. Reality. I spend less time preparing for trips than I spend drinking absinth in Brunei – which is to say very little time at all. My wayfaring attitude toward travel and preparation would take a serious hit upon challenging the mighty Mount Kinabalu to a stratospheric grudge match. Kinabalu is the 20th tallest mountain in the world by vir-
tue of topographical prominence, a spreading ground of incomprehensible biological diversity and a favored destination among Borneo thrill-seekers. A hellacious 20km circuit to Low’s Peak, some 4,095 meters above sea level, taught me a valuable lesson about preparation much the same way I imagine Everest taught Sir Edmund Hillary, the greatest mountaineer in the history of the world, a thing or two about packing an overnight bag. In the interest of full disclosure, let me begin by stating the oft-neglected: Malaysian Borneo is as intimidating as a proboscis monkey with a runny nose. This is not your grandfather’s jungle. This is Axel Rose’s jungle; Kota Kinabalu, the bustling capital city of Sabah state and the largest city in Borneo, is as modern and mighty as any mid-sized Asian capital, replete with thumping discotheques, Thai cafes and multi-plex digital picture emporiums. Kota Kinabalu is also known as a bit of a beachcomber’s paradise; Tanjung Aru, located on the main Borneo landmass, boasts a 2km-long stretch
of sand, while Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, consisting of five small islands less than 5km off Kota Kinabalu, is popular with tourists and weekend warriors alike. Pulau Gaya, the largest of the five islands, gasconades two five-star resorts and is popular among rock stars and the most gastronomically adventurous Parisian celebrity chefs. Visiting the Central Market, we entertained rumors of a notorious krait colony that exists on Cow Island and preys on unsuspecting snorkelers. Excited at the prospect of encountering authentic Borneo danger, we were left nonplussed regarding our sea-level adventures when not a single water-borne hazard presented itself. Unless you trip and fall into a ravenous rafflesia flower at the forest reserve near Tambunan or disturb a hungry orangutan during feeding time at the Sepilok sanctuary the only safety issues you’re likely to encounter in Borneo relate to undercooked street stall Satay. Luxury and largess conspired against me in Borneo. I let my guard down and got lazy. I ate too much anchovy-spiked nasi lemak,
spent too many lazy nights on the beach and not nearly enough time exploring the mighty jungle frontiers. Touring Borneo’s newest and largest hypermall, I found a used copy of Hillary’s High Adventure in the historical fiction bin. Casually flipping through the dog-eared pages while Megan, my intrepid travel companion, shopped for powder at the Clinique counter, I came across this apothegm, written by Hilary himself: “from the summit we could see at least a hundred miles in every direction.” I knew immediately that I was destined to conquer Mount Kinabalu, as Hillary conquered the indomitable Everest on May 29, 1953. With any luck, I’d be knighted for my exploits before I descended again to the
sea, as Sir Edmund himself was honored by Queen Elizabeth II. Of course, trouble lay in my way; to stand at the apex of Kinabalu I knew I must evade the salivating pitcher plant’s sweet toxic nectar, dodge projectiles launched through the air by cheeky garbage monkeys and subsist for 24-hours without access to the internet, a cellular telephone or hot water. An anonymous international study suggests that this latter trio has never been successfully accomplished by anyone under the age of 30. I pined to be the first. Unfortunately, the tour racket is a well-oiled machine on the isle of Borneo and the only way to climb Kinabalu is with an accredited guide, a fully qualified insurance policy and climbing fees paid in full. While review-
ing ascent details from the posh air-conditioned confines of the island’s largest travel agency, I turned again to Sir Ed’s tome for motivational factoids as the plethora of rules and regulations were beginning to get me down. “It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves,” Hillary wrote, and with that in mind I signed my liability waivers and passed my visa across the counter, determined to do great things on that mountain. “You don’t have to be a fantastic hero to do certain things – to compete. You can be just an ordinary chap, sufficiently motivated,” Hillary said. I knew I was better than sufficiently motivated; I was self-sufficiently motivated, and I was ready to climb a mountain. A moment to consider routine. Edmund Hillary and the 37 members of the Ninth British Expedition supposedly drank more than six liters of water each, every day, during their
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4 seven-week assault on the summit in an effort to combat altitude sickness. The night before Megan and I took on the barren face of Kinabalu we drank two liters of wine, three citrus-infused hefeweizens, ate two servings of rendang curry, a heap of opur ayam and a hearty supply of Ikan Pari chased with two dozen lychee berries. We covered our lychee in honey; Hillary himself was a beekeeper by trade, and we considered this a good omen and an auspicious offering to the legends of the stratosphere. Our assault began at 9 a.m. I imagine Hillary had put 15km behind him by 9 a.m. on an average day, but no bother. We collected our guide, Frank, at Kinabalu Park HQ and took to the winding trail. We clambered over the rugged terrain, blanketed by the viscous jungle heat, passing hikers less attuned to the scorching temperatures than we were. I snickered at those overloaded with climbing equipment and useless gear like pants, gloves, hats and hiking boots. I was outfitted in the bare essentials; sneakers, shorts and a $1 t-shirt I picked up in the Siem Reap night market. In contrast, Hillary and Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay packed oxygen masks, crampons, beaver-pelt mittens and ice axes into their kits, while the Australian mother of three herding her hoard up the mountainside ahead of us was clad in the latest from The North Face, Wigwam and Patagonia. I scoffed at their excessive preparation. All that gear would have only served to slow me down. Nearly eight kilometers and some six hours into our climb, I found myself seated on a rock next to my exhausted travel companion, watching hikers we passed on the trail hours ago overcome us a miniscule 500m shy of Laban Rata, our base camp for the night. We were woefully dehydrated; between us, we had consumed less than three liters of water. Foolishly, I decided at sea level we were better served traveling swift and light. Now we’re not traveling at all and we are seriously light headed. At more than 3,270 meters above sea level the human body expels nearly three liters of water every hour – from every orifice 60/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
imaginable. We knew we couldn’t turn around and go back down – our guide, Frank, who had appeared from a secondary trail for only the second time during our quest, informed us that he must rendezvous with his girlfriend, a cook at Laban Rata, before night falls. He offered us aspirin tablets, a few sips from his own water stores and urged us to continue our trek. I told him that I refused to go on, that if he wished me to spend the night at Laban Rata he would have to carry me the rest of the way. Frank called me fat. I told him I had watched some of his fellow porters pass us with supply loads from Park HQ in excess of 100kg; surely he could carry me a few hundred meters, if he were man enough. Frank refused and asked me exactly what I was carrying in my backpack. As I bent over to explore its contents I know that Frank attempted to kick me in the ass. He swears he did not. Sleep on the mountain did not come easy. While Hillary enjoyed the body heat of his Nepalese Sherpa inside his wind-proof tent, a billion tons of snow kept him safe from the harsh Himalayan elements – snow, of course, is one of the greatest heat insulators in the world. In contrast, I was forced to spend a restless night holed up in a makeshift ice hut with a corrugated steel roof that howled like an angry dragon every time the wind kicked up outside. Our hut-mates, a cheery couple from Hong Kong, snored loudly and stole my blanket in the middle of the night. Mount Kinabalu is considered by many climbers the easiest 4,000-meter summit on earth; not even two months on Everest could convince me otherwise at this point. Hillary had it easy out there on the top of the world. We rose at 3 a.m. to conquer the summit, our convoy some 200 strong. I snacked on cereal grains and flooded my system with water, but after visiting the lavatory half a dozen times in the night and expelling what liquid was left in my system, I was slower up the mountain than most of the school children and the Texas oil man attempting in vain to get
reception on his iPhone. Megan hauled my dehydrated carcass atop Low’s Peak. I remember thinking of the hands and fingers that once functioned when I commanded them to; at this altitude, in this darkness, in this cold, nothing operates as it is meant to. I was filled with a jealous sort of rage looking out upon all the climbers in their thermal gloves and wool-lined jackets while I shuddered in my thin fleece sweater and sweat-soaked shorts. I considered making a move for Frank’s pack to appropriate his emergency flare to signal a rescue helicopter, but I thought better of it. Where once there was a single surly guide now there were three: one an apparition, one a hallucination and one angrier than ever at my lack of preparation. Frank urged me onward with a raised eyebrow. Taking the final few meters to the peak I tripped and fell, my ravaged copy of High Altitude falling out of my pocket. I thought of the many ways I had failed Hillary, when, suddenly, ripping across the sky like some ephemeral ribbon as if we’d reached the end of the first moonscape half marathon, rays of sunlight shattered the dark and illuminated the world above the clouds. “We knocked that bastard off !” I screamed, smiling at Megan and eliciting a chorus of cheers from my fellow climbers. It seemed as though they were familiar with the reference. I sat my pack down on the rock and dug through it, past those things given to me en route by kind climbers: a jug of water; iodine pills; a compass; two candy bars and a roll of two-ply toilet paper. I removed my camera – the only item I thought twice about packing – and framed the landscape before me. Wild, wicked Borneo lay bare, while the rest of the world, a hundred miles in every direction, lay ready for conquest.
5 1. Peak – Mt. Kinabalu is supposedly not so hard to summit. 2. High Road – The path ascends steadily; Hillary had it easy 3. Shack Shelter – A tin shed gave us shelter for the night. 4. Cloud Canvas – Hillary said it best: “from the summit we could see at least a hundred miles in every direction.” 5. Probo – Malaysian Borneo is as intimidating as a proboscis monkey with a runny nose.
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Zip It: Going Fast on a Mungyeong High-Wire By Dave Luth “Just walk off the platform. It’s fun.” Yeah right. One would think such a simple instruction would be easy to follow, but when that platform happens to be 48 meters above the ground and you’re about to fly over a ravine on a wire, compliance doesn’t come quite so easily, especially if you have a healthy respect for heights. That’s like saying to an arachnophobe, “Just pet the tarantula, it’s friendly.” Yes, such things are much easier said than done. Thea’s palms were sweaty with anxiety. That day she had tagged along with a large group of American soldiers to the zipline course. She was the last of the group to take the walk of faith and even though she had just witnessed ten people zip along the wire unharmed, what if she happened to be that statistical improbability — an accident? Having taken a pass on bungee jumping, and refusing to even contemplate skydiving with her friends, Thea was determined not to be left out on ziplining. She took a deep breath, walked three paces off the platform, and squeezed her eyes shut. Zzzzzzzzziiiiiippppp!! The written word does not do justice to the actual sound. Unlike the dainty zip! of a jeans fly, the sound of a pulley, weighed down by an adult human, sliding down a 13mm-thick inclined steel wire at up to 40 km/hr is unlike anything you’ve heard before. It’s a reverberation. Racing back up the line it whips behind any observer standing on the departing platform like a boomerang and blasts them with vibrations. Such is the effect that even though a ziplining person might already be 100 meters down the line, it sounds like they’re whizzing right by your ear. It’s a sound that denotes speed, exhilaration, power. The power to overcome fears.
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1. High-flying fun. 2. Thea, nervous about ziplining backwards. 3. Thea ziplining. 4. Getting ready to zip.
Thea opened her eyes just in time to glide in for a landing. As she gingerly took the steps down off the landing platform her pursed lips loosened and spread triumph across her face. She’d done it. She hadn’t freaked out. She hadn’t backed out. She had conquered her fear and what’s more, “It was really fun!” she gushed. “And not scary at all.” One might call ziplining a “light” adventure sport. There’s no danger of going splat should your parachute not open, nor is there expensive training involved, such as with scuba diving. In some places ziplining is even used for the treatment of acrophobia, the fear of heights. Kang Dong-Jun, a manager at Zipline Mungyeong, says his facility has not started programs specifically for that purpose. However, he sees people like Thea nonetheless conquering their fears every day. The best part of his job he says, is seeing the energizing effect that ziplining has on otherwise risk-averse people. “They smile and thank me afterward and tell me how much fun they had,” he says. “Some even ask for my phone number.” As an adventure sport, ziplining gained popularity in the mid-‘90s in Costa Rica as an exhilarating way to see the beauty of the rainforest while having a softer imprint on the environment. Mr. Kang helped bring ziplining to Korea when Zipline Mungyeong opened in 2009. Nestled amongst Korea’s emerald mountains, Mungyeong’s scenic locale makes the perfect place for an eco-friendly zipline facility. Zipline Mungyeong remains the only large professional zipline facility in the country and, with nine different courses, amounts to 1.4 kilometers of high-flying thrills. This culminates in a spectacular ride above the trees that reveals a panoramic view of the mountain forest and Mungyeong’s rice paddies below. Standing at the start one can barely see the landing platform 378 meters away. Whizzing through the trees like Tarzan is liberating, and yet one feels perfectly secure in their sturdy harness attached to a steel line that can support up to eight tons of weight. But is ziplining truly safe? Mr. Kang chuckles and points to the photographs on the wall of laughing children in their helmets and harnesses. “We even let children do it. Over the past two years we have had over 50,000 visitors. I’d be lying if I said we’ve had no accidents. However, none of them have been the result of ziplining.” Turns out walking down a mountain trail is more dangerous than ziplining. So what makes ziplining stand out from other adventure sports? Mr. Kang leans back in his chair and smiles as if recalling a pleasant memory. “The great thing about ziplining is that it’s not an individual sport like paragliding or skydiving. One can experience it in a group with family and friends. And anyone can do it. Grandmothers and grandfathers even come here.” Grandmas? Well if they can enjoy it, anyone can. 4
Adventures at Zipline Mungyeong cost 50,000 won per person and include a two-hour tour of all nine courses. To get to Zipline Mungyeong take a bus to Jeomchon (점촌), not Mungyeong (문경) as one might think. Make a reservation with the facility beforehand for pickup service. While you’re at it, make it a weekend in North Gyeongsang Province. The town of Mungyeong is only a 15,000-won taxi ride away. Other activities include a hike through Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park, riding a rail bike, rafting and paragliding. Website: www.zipline.co.kr Phone: 02-444-9683
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Destination: Buyeo By Chris Backe Forget finding an expat-friendly bar. Don’t bother looking for a Western restaurant. Half the reason for coming to Buyeo is to get away from English menus and waygooks galore. The other half ? A great chance to see some history you won’t see much of in Seoul. If you’re traveling Seoul, you’ll hear plenty about the Joseon Dynasty. Seoul was the capital, after all, and the seat of power for centuries of kings and queens. Buyeo’s history starts centuries before King Taejo ever thought about starting up the Joseon Dynasty. Buyeo was the capital of the Baekje Dynasty during the Sabi Period (538-660 A.D.). Gyeongju is a bit more tourist-friendly, but Buyeo is closer to Seoul, if that makes a difference to your touring ways. While there’s no train station here, it’s a twoand-a-half hour bus ride from Seoul’s Nambu terminal. While the Buyeo of today is far from the capital of a nation, the sleepy traditional area is gradually reconstructing itself. You know an area has reached a certain size when Western restaurant franchises begin to build locations nearby. The Dunkin’ Donuts-to-be seems strangely out of place with the traditional market that starts across the street from the Buyeo Bus Terminal, but such is life in Korea. Once arriving at the aforementioned Buyeo Bus Terminal, quite a bit is within walking distance - Jeongnimsa (a former temple site with an ancient Buddha statue), a five-story pagoda, a museum
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The first sight worth taking in is a seated stone Buddhist statue dating from the Goryeo period. The area surrounding the statue and five-story pagoda is a former temple site being reconstructed. Completion still seems years away - a perfect chance to beat the rush of tourists.
highlighting the life and times, and a more modern sculpture museum. If there’s one edge the county has, the size and ease of getting around is conducive to walking. The first sight worth taking in is a seated stone Buddhist statue dating from the Goryeo period. The area surrounding the statue and five-story pagoda is a former temple site being reconstructed. Completion still seems years away - a perfect chance to beat the rush of tourists. The Jeongrim temple site museum ( 정림사지박물관) is one of the area’s two large museums (the other being the amusingly-named Buyeo National Museum (국립부여박물관). The exhibits feature life during the Baekje era some 1,500 years ago and how the buildings were constructed. While there are some interesting visuals here, not much information is in English. The Baekje Royal Tombs (백제왕릉 원) are a short bus or taxi ride away, but feel a lot more like Gyeongju than anywhere else. One tomb mound has been converted into a nice look of the area – if you can understand Korean, of course. The other seven tombs belong to Baekje royalty, although there’s no indication on exact names or years. The first incarnation of a museum showcasing Buyeo’s Baekje-era history was in April of 1939. Six years later, a branch of the National Museum of Korea in Seoul was opened here, but it wasn’t until 1975 that the branch became a national museum in its own
Buyeo is a showcase for Baekje Dynasty treasures.
right. The current location, within walking distance or a quick taxi from the bus terminal, has been used since August of 1993. Before even getting in it seems obvious where the government money has been spent - dozens of exhibits are part of the walkway to the entrance. While there’s no path to see them all, feel free to stroll by some of them before heading in. This museum is perhaps the best place in the country to take in the arts and crafts from the Baekje dynasty. While most of it is practical in form and function, the small Buddhist figurines are wonderfully detailed – recall its 1,500+ year old age. The pièce de résistance – a Gilt-Bronze Incense Burner topped by a “bonghwang,” a phoenix-like legendary bird – is a National Treasure in incredible condition. There’s enough English around to understand and comprehend the significance of the pieces, as well. Buyeo’s other tourist attractions include a mountain fortress (부소산성) which
unfortunately lacks most of the buildings you might expect to see. Near the north end of the fortress is the Nakhwa-am rock, where legend holds that 3,000 ladies of the court plunged to their death rather than surrender to the conquering Silla and Chinese armies. Both are beautiful areas, and great escapes from the city life. Whether you’re more interested in history or nature, there’s enough to keep you sightseeing for a full weekend. Just get your fill of Western life before arriving, and enjoy a step back into a more traditional setting. Directions to Buyeo: take an express bus – from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal, 19 non-stop and 18 express buses (12,200 won) go there every day. Once at Buyeo Bus Terminal, all of the above sights except for the Baekje Royal Tombs are within walking distance or a minimal taxi ride. A small bus system exists, but isn’t worth the time and trouble figuring out. Pick up a map at the bus terminal and navigate the town from there. Plenty of Korean food and love hotels around, so it shouldn’t be too hard finding something to eat and drink.
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Savoring the Anticipation of Travel By Rob McGovern photo by josh foreman
The baby-blue-tinted windows and the 6 a.m., fog-drenched sky give Seoul at dawn a strange, underwater feel.The large windows of the AREX carriages frame the sky and give the new, clean and fairly empty carriages the look of a doctor’s waiting room, filled with large, artificially lit aquariums. The train passes from light to dark, from the stirring light of dawn into the belly of the city and back again, like the small disconnected segments of ‘Nessie’ you can buy from tacky Scottish gift shops. The disconnected pieces of Loch Ness’s monster allude to the wavy body of the monster, undulating beneath the waves. But in this case the train is an arrow and the land is undulating around it. Back out again into the otherworldly, eggshellblue Seoul morning, racing alongside a highway and being beaten by a bus. The stations now are no longer underground and the landscape is barren on one side and highway on the other. And it’s beautiful. Everything is beautiful when you’re going to an airport. As Paul Theroux said, “the journey is the goal.” the anticipation of travelling, or in this case the journey to the airport, is sometimes as good as the travelling itself. The temperature is low and it looks cold, the blue tint playing a trick on the mind and making you feel it is a few degrees lower than it probably is. Blue tint or not it will be low enough for children to pretend
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they are smoking with every breath and the trees, soon to wake to the warmer spring air are bare and lifeless are tinged with frost, frozen dew from the crisp and biting morning. The passengers alongside me rest their eyes for the final 20 minutes, safe and warm in the modern train. Contentedness washes over me and I relax, warm and happy. Truly happy in the moment with feelings of concentrated happiness and able to suspend, for now at least, the now-insignificant problems that dogged my mind just 24 hours ago. The landscape, with no buildings anywhere to be seen, becomes more depth-less, impenetrable and slightly foreboding, but nothing can bring me down from my going-on-holiday high. The landscape is painted on the side of the carriage and hangs like a Rothko. Apartments intermittently pop their heads through the cloud of fog resting on the land, giving an end-of-the-world, an almost post-apocalyptic feel but less desolate and lonely and more peaceful and tranquil. More Buddhist and less dark arts. The 40-minute journey is almost over but not before the land jumps up around us and smothers us in darkness once again. The cargo terminal is the penultimate stop before the airport leg of the prejourney journey begins. As I sit ready to get out of the train I am happy and excited at the thought of sitting with a steaming cup of coffee, staring out the enormous terminal windows at all the planes. I’m going on holiday and I can wait to get there. The train lows to a stop and everyone disembarks.
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Taking Back the Po’ Boy By Josh Foreman Popeyes Korea has a sandwich it’s calling a po’ boy. It is flaccid, overly sweet, too-short and wholly beige. It is not disgusting, but it is not a po’ boy. The po’ boy — the real po’ boy — is long, robust. It arrives open-faced. It is impossible to close completely. When you do try and close it whatever it is that’s inside it (fried shrimp or oysters, by god) should spill out, a bonus to be eaten by fork when the sandwich is done. The po’ boy should have texture — crunchiness, chewiness, a salty juiciness (if it does have oysters inside), and acidity from tomatoes and hot sauce. It should have presence and weight. The Popeyes version has none of that and feels, in the hand, like a pair of foam slippers. I grew up eating po’ boys in South Mississippi, so I was intrigued and, yes, a little excited when I saw the sandwich advertised on 2 a Popeyes door recently. “Chee-keen-tend-aupoh-baw-ees…” Chicken tender… po’ boys? Korea has po’ boys. Right on. I got one and, well, you already know how it went. I wasn’t disappointed exactly; I hadn’t expect-
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ed much. But the experience gave me an idea. I’ve made po’ boys in Seoul before — why not do it the right way and write about it? First, a little more on Popeyes’ offering. Remember that time you got that sandwich in Seoul and you were kind of excited to have a nice sandwich and you bit into it and there was jam and cucumbers and egg salad or apples or something inside it and you were deflated in a small but profound way? Well, the Popeyes food engineers must be fans of those, because the Popeyes Chicken Tender Po’ Boy is a uniquely Korean perversion of the sandwich of my home. Gone are the tomatoes, mayo and hot sauce of the original. In their place: yellow bell peppers, iceberg lettuce (OK, that’s on the original, too) and honey mustard. Yep, honey mustard. And it isn’t filled with Gulf seafood or the Korean equivalent. It isn’t filled with roast beef or sausage. It’s filled with chicken tenders, which isn’t the worst thing you could put in a po’ boy but is a far cry from what should go in a po’
boy. At least they’re fried. The result is, as I mentioned before, something too sweet, too soft, positively limp — something with no personality and not evocative of the culture Popeyes purports to spread ‘round the world. And add it to the list of should-be-savory foods — foods you love — that visit these shores and get sweet. I’ve told you a little about the essence of the South’s most famous sandwich, but what really makes a po’ boy a po’ boy I haven’t mentioned yet: the bread, New Orleans-style French. The joy of eating New Orleans-style French bread is derived almost completely from its unique textural properties. It is crunchy-but-yielding, compactable, chewy. Hard on the outside, but oh-so-soft on the inside. It doesn’t hurt if it’s buttered and grilled. When you get a po’ boy, it’s always so big. How can I possibly eat that? you think. How can I even hold that? Then you do hold it, and it molds to your hand like a memory-foam pillow. All the shrimp or oysters or bits of softshell crab superfluous to the sandwich fall down to the plate below (waiting, as I mentioned before, for the fork) and then, somehow, what was too big to eat is the perfect size. And eat it you will, although it is still too damn big and will make you feel over-full. But such is the cost of experiencing the po’ boy. I contacted a cooking school in New Orleans to get some background on the sandwich. A chef wrote me back with an anecdote: “Clovis Martin, an owner of a restaurant and former street car conductor, started giving sandwiches away to other streetcar workers during the strike in 1929 that lasted for four months. His employees jokingly referred to the strikers as ‘poor boys’ and soon the sandwich took on the name. In Louisiana dialect, this is naturally shortened to ‘po’ boy.’” I found out later he had lifted the story from the Wikipedia article on po’ boys, which had gotten it from a 2009 New York Times article, which had gotten it from Michael Mizell-Nelson, a University of New Orleans historian. Whether it is true, it is a fine but hokey story, the kind that evokes America’s golden days, when all anyone needed was a good sand-
1. Sarah - Sarah Segal, an Arizona native and fan of the po’ boy. 2. OysterPoboy - Korea has big, juicy oysters in abundance. It’s relatively easy to fry them up and put them into French bread. The result is a decent stand-in for a New Orleans po’ boy. 3. Popeyes - Popeyes sells a chicken tender po’ boy which is not really a po’ boy. It is small and limp and filled with chicken. 4. PopeyesPoboy - The Popeyes po’ boy is inexplicably sweet.
wich, damnit, and the right to work, the kind of story that gets repeated so many times it becomes tour guide legend and diminishes the authenticity of its subject somehow. Brack May, who runs Cowbell restaurant in New Orleans, gave me an abbreviated version of the same story, with an important twist. He referred to the 1929 version of the po’ boy as “What it Was,” as opposed to the modern version, “What it Is.” I don’t know exactly when What it Was became What it Is, but here’s a breakdown of the two: What it Was is New Orleans-style French bread piled with slowcooked beef chuck and garnished with gravy from the chuck’s reduced juices, or as May put it, “a big gravy sandwich with lots of meat on it.” What it Is is “anything that’ll fit on that French bread,” which includes fried lobster, hot sausage and eggs (breakfast po’ boy), catfish and even — Vietnamese banh mi-style — pate, charred pork, and Asian pickles. And of course there are the classics, fried shrimp and oysters. “As long as it’s overstuffed,” May said. His own restaurant serves a “surf and turf ” po’ boy with beef short ribs and fried shrimp. Getting hungry? Don’t run to Popeyes just yet. Turns out making po’ boys in Korea is not that hard and does produce a pretty good alternative to the real thing. The fact that Korea has good-quality oysters in spades doesn’t hurt one bit. For our experiment I picked up three bags of fresh, pre-shucked oysters (about 10 in each bag) for 1,600 won each. That’s 1,600 won each bag. The Paris Baguette in my neighborhood provided the French bread, and although it was a poor substitute for the stuff from New Orleans that May described as “crispy, light, kind of melts away,” I was happy to be able to get it at all in this Eastern land. Corn meal, be-
4 lieve it or not, proved to be the toughest thing to locate (they sell it at Foreign Food Mart in Itaewon), but you can substitute flour. The rest was easy: lettuce, tomatoes, mayonnaise and Tobasco, plus some soybean oil for frying. The whole bundle, enough for four overstuffed po’ boys, cost under 20,000 won. I invited Sarah Segal, an American and self-proclaimed po’ boy fan (Segal has never had a po’ boy in New Orleans, Mississippi or even Alabama, but still says regarding the sandwich, “I’m addicted. It’s like crack”), over for the experiment. Melissa Hubley, a Canadian po’ boy fan who actually has had one in New Orleans, came too. While they chopped lettuce and infused (read: mixed) the mayonnaise with Tobasco, I heated a wok full of oil on the porch outside (the taste of a crispy fried oyster is sublime, but the smell you do not
want hanging around in your apartment for days). I rolled the oysters one-by-one in corn meal and seasoning, and plopped them into the oil. Ah, to admire a bivalve frying. The result was a batch of decent fried oyster po’ boys. Without the right bread, the sandwich will always be lacking. But the oysters were fantastic — juicy inside and crunchy on the outside — and the Tobasco gave them that Louisiana twist. “You gotta get a po’ boy sometimes,” May told me, as if it were an old truism. And I agree. If you’re a fan of the po’ boy, you probably agree too. If you’ve never had one, well, you do got to get one sometime. Try making them at home — you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how good they turn out. You’ll be even more surprised when you try the real thing in New Orleans. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/69
Food & Drink
Urbs & Spices by read urban photos by josh foreman
making cheese here. I’ve come across cheesecloth-like fabrics, but before that I had a hard time finding something thin enough to strain out liquids. I have heard coffee filters work, but I was also able to find a product in Daiso that works well. They look like oversize tea bags and are used for steeping spices and dried fish for stocks and soups. These bags are perfect for draining off the whey from the curds. I just cut them open and line a colander. This cheese won’t have the tang or sharpness of an aged cheese. It also won’t have that stringy, gooey texture when melted. It is more reminiscent of a ricotta or fresh chevre, mellow and ready to take on other flavors. Once the cheese is finished it is ready to be eaten on its own or incorporated into any dish you see fit. I often add it to my scrambled eggs on Sunday morning or use it to stuff ravioli. I’ve thrown it into a grilled cheese. I bet it could even stand in for queso fresco on some black beans and rice. If you aren’t up for cooking with it right away just drizzle some olive oil on it, give it a few good turns from a pepper grinder and some minced herbs. Even a pinch of spice or dried herbs will work ( I suggest coriander or thyme).
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After finishing this month’s column, I realized it encapsulates what I want to try and say each month. Be proactive in the kitchen. Don’t ever settle for just food. Make it at home and enjoy being in the kitchen (preferably with a beer). We are all lucky to live in a country that embraces the culinary spirit. I implore you to take that love of food and carry it back to your culture.
White Gold at Home There are few things a foreigner in Korea misses more than cheese. In my old college town we had a small whole foods store with an incredible cheese selection. One of my Sunday traditions was to walk down and try a new cheese from some part of the world. French wedges layered with ash. Drunken goats cheese soaked in red wine. Pungent mango Stilton. These weren’t the cheeses for smothering on a basket of fries or seven layer dip. These were the cheeses to savor, cheeses with serious complexity. I really miss those days. Luckily, the availability in Korea has become a lot better recently. You can find water-packed mozzarella and sharp cheddar in Homeplus and E-mart. Itaewon has its hidden gems, but for some of us it can be a long trip. There is always Costco for the huge orange brick, but that can be a hassle on packed weekends. I realized that the best way to combat the lack of cheese in my life was to attack the problem head on. Maybe it’s my odd need to know how everything in the food world is made, or maybe I was just tired of 50-minute subway rides for dairy, but I was determined to make the stuff at home. I dabbled with making fresh cheeses back in the States and figured Korea would be the perfect place to continue. At first, making cheese seemed like an impossible task. Curds, whey, cultures, and what exactly is rennet? After looking through some cookbooks I realized you can easily make cheese with a few simple ingredients. The recipe is not intensive and, as long as you keep a watchful eye on the process, you will create a creamy round of white gold. I have found it a versatile ingredient that has almost become a staple in my pantry. There is really no reason not to make this recipe. It’s cheap, easy, and produces something you can’t find anywhere else in Korea. Some people I’ve met prefer using the Denmark Milk brand when making cheese. I’ve never really had a problem using any of the milks I find in Korea, but use whatever brand you prefer as long as it is whole milk. Lemon juice or vinegar is used to form the curds (the solid part of the milk), and I find fresh-squeezed lemon juice is the most effective. Straining off the whey (the leftover liquid) was a problem I had when I first started 70/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
Fresh “Farmer’s Cheese” •
1 liter of whole milk
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Salt
•
3-4 Tbsp Fresh Lemon Juice, or apple vinegar
Pour the milk in a pan and set it over medium low heat. I tend to add a half tablespoon of salt at this point. Don’t ask me why. Now, you don’t want to bring the milk to a boil, not even a simmer. I usually test it with a clean finger, and if it is too hot to hold the tip of my pinkie in, the milk is ready. Add the lemon juice or vinegar in tablespoon by tablespoon, slowly stirring it. Add 3 tablespoons of acid and look for the curds separating from the whey. If you don’t see any separation, add another tablespoon of vinegar until you do. Once the curds have formed, turn off the heat and let it sit for 30-45 minutes. Next, line a colander with cheesecloth or Daiso soup bags. Slowly pour the curds and whey through the colander. Salt the curds, but be careful, it is easy to over-salt the cheese. I usually go with less than a tablespoon. When most of the whey has drained off, gather the ends of the cheesecloth material and find a place to hang it in your refrigerator (with a bowl underneath to catch the whey.) Gravity should take care of the rest in 5-8 hours.
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/71
Food & Drink
Fun with Rice and Yeast
By Ryan Rose Weaver
“Sweet Jesus, this makgeolli has aspartame in it?” I smacked my lips in distaste. In front of me, a row of cups filled with milky white liquid sat atop a pile of tasting notes. I was sitting in the basement lab space of Susubori Academy, an outpost of Kyonggi University, in a makgeolli class led by American brewers Becca Baldwin and Daniel Lenaghan. As part of the class, which cost 60,000 won for all instruction, materials and dinner, they had lined up a varied array of rice wines, ranging in taste from tangy sour to sudsy sweet, for us to try. (The tasting portion of the class was just one reason I was happy to be there.)
72/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
One of the cups contained “danyangju”, the simple makgeolli we would be making in class today over the course of a few hours. A rough-and-tumble homebrew short on sugar and long on alcoholic aftertaste, danyangju is only fermented once; to make a sweeter, more complex brew, one only has to add sugar at well-timed weekly intervals. According to Baldwin and Lenaghan, you can ferment makgeolli up to five times. Another cup contained Slow Village, an all-natural makgeolli made by Seoul-based Baesangmyun Brewery, available in some supermarkets and through a handful of Baesangmyun’s walk-in “microbreweries” posted around Seoul. That one tasted like sweet yellow melon and would, we were told, expire in less than a week. And one of them contained a chalky shot of the ubiquitous rice wine sold in 7-11s across the city for a chunner and a half. Ironically named “Longevity,” this makgeolli is one of the many commercially-produced drinks on the market containing aspartame, a chemical much maligned by health food aficionados as posing potential health risks. It also contains a cocktail of preservatives—giving it more longevity on the shelf, to be sure, but few health benefits. Even though aspartame’s been approved for human consumption by governments the world over, I just don’t like it; it tastes flat and metallic, and more importantly, it’s cheating. A few more go-rounds in the “balhyoshil” (fermentation room), we were told, and the homemade stuff would taste plenty sweet, without the questionable additives. Makgeolli may seem to have less complexity than the European wines Western drinkers are familiar with: after all, it’s fermented for days, not years. But stack a few different kinds
Restaurant Review:
Heeut Makgeolli Bar by June Kim Within Haebangchon lies a makgeolli bar called Heeut. It’s a cozy joint that sits 15, creating an intimate setting for sipping on milky Korean rice wine, nibbling on flavorful side dishes, and catching up with friends. From black bean to white lotus makgeolli, the menu provides 21 different flavors ranging from traditional to eccentric. Browsing through the menu doubles as a primer on rice wine, as the origin, region, and taste of each makgeolli is described. Indecisive? Try the five-cup sampler that lets you choose five types of makgeolli for 2,000 won. As many know, makgeolli is best served with a side dish, and Heeut does not disappoint. Marinated beef ribs, fried mackerel, and a variety of savory “pajeon” (Korean pancakes) range from 10,000 - 15,000 won. With tasty food, a wide selection of rice wine, and good company, visitors are sure to join the already-existing Heeut following. Heeut is located on Haebangcheon’s main drag, across from Pita Time.
Stars: HHH out of four
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/73
Food & Drink
up side by side like this, and it’s amazing how unique each brew can be. My favorite place to do this is at the popular H Makgeolli on Haebangchon-ro, near Noksapyeong Station, where you can peruse well-written English or Korean histories of various regional makgeollis, then order a sampler of five for 2,000W. To be sure, fermentation in all its forms is a magical process, one that lies at the heart of Korea’s most iconic foods and beverages. There’s something about allowing your food to be infested by alien organisms that obliges you to trust in Mother Nature—which may be harder for Westerners like me. According to Lenaghan, Asian cultures are “micophilic,” meaning they have a long tradition of working in harmony with fungi and yeast to produce healthy foods. Meanwhile, most Western cultures are “micophobic,” meaning that cooks from that side of the world have less exposure to fermented foods, and must often work to get over their mistrust of mold. Baldwin and Lenaghan have certainly evolved past this point: as former winemakers who also make kefir, they refer to their yeast’s behavior as if it were a beloved household pet. My friend Jason Lindley, a Seoul-based beermaker, feels similarly about the little beasties he uses to make his ports and ales, comparing them to “a bunch of tiny little cows, grazin’ on sugar.” And indeed, having a bit of something fermenting in your kitchen is much like having a houseplant or a goldfish. Whether you’re making wine, kimchi, kombucha or kefir, the process is basically the same: you put a bunch of living organisms into a controlled environment, feed them a bit of something sweet, keep ‘em warm and happy, and they’ll agreeably transform your food into a delicious new substance full of healthy bacteria and vitamins. And of course, varying amounts of alcohol, which is the universal byproduct of this process. This fact alone, in this writer’s humble estimation, makes a jar of homebrewed makgeolli far superior to a fern on the windowsill. So, in pursuit of greater health, a bit of fun and plain old curiosity, I went to Susubori to 74/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
make the stuff myself. As we learned there, the homemade stuff will knock you on your ass: at about 13 to 15 percent, it contains about twice the amount of commercial makgeollis. However, in contrast to the store-bought stuff, it only contains three simple ingredients: rice, yeast, and water. Makgeolli has long been the drink of choice among rice farmers in the countryside, where it’s sometimes referred to as “nongju” (farmer’s liquor). As Lenaghan puts it, makgeolli was traditionally “a rainy day drink,” something that could be made easily with ingredients close at hand. In fact, according to Baldwin, “nuruk” the yeast that turns rice into makgeolli, is traditionally cultivated by leaving straw out to collect morning dew in mountainside pastures. (Romantic, eh?) These days, nuruk can occasionally be bought for a song at Baesangmyun Brewery’s outposts around Seoul, or otherwise obtained by contacting Susubori
Academy. Obtaining this yeast is the hardest part of making homemade makgeolli; after that, it’s rinsing and steaming the rice, which was step one in our class. Jo Hyojin, a professor at Kyonggi University who works with Susubori, said that the rule was once “one hundred rinses,” ‘til the water in your bowl of rice runs clear and free of chaff. However, after rinsing our rice (standard Korean short-grain, for those playing along at home), we moved on to soaking the rice. After two hours in a lukewarm bath, it’s off to the steamer. Unfortunately, we learned that you can’t simply use your handy rice cooker for makgeolli making: the grains should be a few shades firmer than al dente, rather than cooked soft. Susubori uses a special industrial-sized steamer for this step, but a home brewer might steam the rice using an expandable metal steamer, available for cheap at most dollar stores, or by rigging up an impromptu steamer a la Mark Bittman: place a few mugs or ramekins in a deep pot, put a plate on top, and fill the pot with water til it reaches the top of the mugs and the bottom of the plate. Then place your rice inside, turn up the heat, and put the lid on tight. (Google “Mark Bittman steamer” for more on this MacGyver-style trick.) When the rice was just starting to stick together but still fairly firm, we pulled it out of the steamer and placed it in front of a fan, which cooled and dried the rice so that it didn’t kill the yeast upon contact. Then, we added an amount of water equal to the amount of cooked rice, also heated only to the lukewarm point to keep our nuruk alive and happy. In our class, we used about 1 kilogram of rice and about a liter of water, which yielded enough makgeolli to fill a large water bottle from a convenience store. Finally, we added about 100 grams of nuruk, or one-tenth the amount of rice. Susubori Academy has a small kitchen scale for this purpose. We mixed it all together, and poured it into jars to take home.
The Academy provided us with the jars and porous nylon sacks necessary for fermenting and then straining the rice mixture, which they told us would take a week to properly ferment. (Baldwin also sent us home with some kefir beads, a nice bonus.) I put my proto-makgeolli under my sink for the week, stirring it a few times during the first few days to fuel the aerobic fermentation process, whereby the yeast uses oxygen to break down the sugar in the rice. If I stopped at this point, I’d have “shikeh”, the popular rice drink served in jimjilbangs across South Korea. A tempting thought, but of course, I kept going, screwing the cap on tight so that the yeast would begin the anerobic process of pumping out alcohol. After a few days, the rice had separated into striking layers of bloated short-grain rice, brown nuruk, and a thin, golden layer of liquid on top which, if I had the capability to distill it, could become soju. Unfortunately, things got busy at work that week, and I waited a day longer than I had planned to strain out the alcohol from the rice mash. Lenaghan warned me that makgeolli fermented past its prime tastes like “death in your mouth,” a literal graveyard of dead yeast, and it wasn’t that bad—but the resulting brew was still a sour kick in the mouth with a monster of an alcoholic aftertaste. I couldn’t drink it straight without wincing. I immediately started thinking about how I’d ensure that none of it went to waste, and decided to make makgeolli sherbet. With a little sugar dissolved in water, a squeeze of honey, a half a cup of coconut flakes, a generous dash of cinnamon, a few bananas and a blender, the moonshine was completely transformed into a frozen dessert that could give the Pina Colada a run for its dinero. (Baldwin also advised me to save the leftover rice mash for “mochu”, a tea made with rice malt, ginseng, ginger and cinnamon.) The makgeolli sherbet had one serious downside: I consumed so much during my initial tasting process that I went to bed tipsy and hallucinating, wondering if my DIY rice wine could cause moonshiner’s blindness, and I woke up with an all-toofamiliar hangover. The final step was to call some friends together to consume the makgeolli sherbet and what was left of my first batch of pure homebrewed rice wine. It started semi-scientifically, with everyone, you know, trying to taste things and also think about them—but things quickly devolved into a dance party once the stuff hit our systems. As we stumbled out the door at 3 a.m.— on a school night, we groaned—I pressed my now-empty jar into the arms of my friend Josh, placing my hands on his head ceremonially like an unholy Mormon missionary passing on the priesthood. “Lisshen, my friend. You must now make the next batch,” I told him solemnly. “You must carry on the noble tradition. But if you need to learn how to do it, I think you should probably take the class ... because right now, I don’t even remember how to get home.” So it goes with fermentation experimentation: not yet an exact science, but that’s the appeal. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/75
Food & Drink
Squid Ink by Paloma Julian photo by mari & nacho
The Red Revolution Let’s try and imagine a scenario: An alien comes from another planet and gives you a new food to try. The food is red — passionate red, dangerous red. The alien tells you to go ahead, cook it. Would you do it? Personally, I don’t think so. I would probably put it on a shelf and try not to think about it. The story of the alien is actually similar to something that happened in the 16th century on my continent. Spaniards — and the rest of Europe — saw the main ingredient of this month’s column for the first time then, when conquistadors brought it back from the New World. Which ingredient is it? The conquistadors were inadvertently starting the Red Revolution then, and I don’t mean the Russian or Carnation Revolution. They had brought back the tomato. That it didn’t have the smoothest introduction to our kitchens does not surprise me. Who first had the cojones to cook with it, knowing it looks like the poisonous mandrake, a plant native to the Mediterranean to which it is related? (It’s also the plant shown in Harry Potter, the one that can ruin your ears if you take it from the soil.)
Because of its bright colors, the Italians call it pomodoro, which translates to gold apple. It was used first for decoration, until someone decided to try eating it. Who was the first brave one to eat the mandrake-cousin? From that moment until now — a time when it is impossible to think of Mediterranean cuisine without the tomato — less than four centuries have passed. Tomatoes. Stuffed, fried, grilled, as a sauce… thousands of recipes, thousands of ways to cook them. But since summer is coming and I feel like eating refreshing and hydrating food, I have decided to write about one of the cold tomato-based soups we eat in Spain. No, it is not gazpacho, but it is similar. Its name is salmorejo, and it is typical of Cordoba. I bet that if Seneca, Averroes or Maimonides — the three philosophers of ancient Cordoba — had known about it, they would have sung about it. Here you are.
Salmorejo Ingredients (serves 4): • • • • • •
1 kg. red tomatoes 100g. white bread (no American bread though, something like baguette) 1 clove of garlic 30g vinegar Salt 150g olive oil
Garnish: • •
4 hard-boiled eggs 100g of tiny pieces of jamón (Spanish ham -you can substitute prosciutto)
1.
Cut the tomatoes and put them in the blender with the garlic and salt (as much as you like). Mix. When they are almost like a cream add the bread and the vinegar and keep mixing for one more minute. Slowly add the olive oil until you see that the soup is done. It should have the consistency of a soft cream. Keep it in the fridge, and serve it very cold. Before serving, garnish it with jamón and egg.
2. 3. 4. 5.
I use Jerez vinegar, but balsamic woks too. If you don’t want to serve it with egg and ham, you can do it with smoked cod or anchovies. 76/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/77
Food & Drink
Restaurant & Bar Directory Bar Bliss Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) make the first right. It’s on the corner. www.picturetrail.com/ barbliss. Price: 12,000-35,000 won. Contemporary cuisine and high-end bar. Great cocktails and patio.
Beer O’Clock Head to Exit 1 of Sinchon Station (Line 2) Go behind the Hyundai Department store towards the 7-11. Turn left on the third street up. 2nd floor. English Menu and staff. #:02333-9733 www.beeroclock.ca. Prices: 8,000-24,000 won. Canadian Sports Bar with great wings, burgers, donairs, and pizza.
Big Rock Brewery Head out Gangnam Station Exit 7 and make the first right and head up the hill past the GS25. www.bigrockbeer.co.kr. Prices: 5,000-15,000 won. Canadian Brewery with a great Sunday Brunch and good pub fare.
Craftworks The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m. 02-794-2537
Don Valley Exit 3 of Itaewon Station (Line 6) below the Coffee Bean. English Menu and staff. #:7962384. Price: 9,000 to 25,000 won. Korean Beef and Pork Barbeque and home-style favorites. Try the Wine Marinated Pork Belly.
HBC Gogi-Jib Out Noksapyeong Exit 2 (Line 6) and walk straight along the street with the kimchi pots. English menu and staff. #:02-796-5528. Nightly bbq specials, generous servings, and open late.
Le Quartier Latin
Restaurant Review:
Sunbabara
by Jordi Sánchez Teruel Sunbabara cafe gallery is one of those places you like from the first time you visit. Last year a lot of art and photo exhibitions, theater plays, unplugged concerts and DJ parties were held there. But recently the restaurant has focused on its menu. Cocktails, beers (including a foamy draft beer) and hookah are not the only good things served. Sunbabara is open late (midnight on weekdays, 2 a.m. on weekends), and their salads, smoked chicken or steak and sandwiches are good fuel for a night out. The atmosphere in Sunbabara is one of the best things about the place. Most customers are students (more graduates than freshmen) but not noisy drinkinggamers as you might expect. They have free mini pool, foosball, board games and retro arcade games. The seats are appropriate for small groups or couples and you can choose between a warm carpet floor in a kind of separate private space, or bigger tables and chairs. The music selection is good with some lounge and ambient, but also top-chart hits and some club music (thank God it’s not another k-pop non-stop bar!). The volume is low enough that it doesn’t disturb talking, but loud enough and to feel the beat. Bad points? Well, prices are not the cheapest in the area and there’s no soju on the menu. The food is good but the amount and prices are not really proportional. While they take their time to prepare your order (especially if you ordered food), you can use their free wifi network to check the meaning of the name of the place. To sum up, if you want to have some drinks after school or work, or before starting a long night, Sunbabara is the right place. You don’t have to order sides, but nachos are always welcome, right? Take Exit 5 from the Hankuk University Of Foreign Studies subway stop. Walk toward HUFS. Turn left on the corner of GS25. Walk until you can turn right. Sunbabara is there.
Stars: HH1/2 out of four 78/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
Go out Sinchon Station Exit 3 (Line 2) and walk straight until you get to the big church. Make a right and walk about 500 meters. Look for the large French Flag. English Menu and Staff. #:02-333-9874. Prices: 4,000-26,000 won. Authentic French Bistro with reasonable prices.
Naked Bar and Grill Line 6 Itaewon Station Exit 1 walk straight and make a right at KFC. Naked Bar and Grill is next to B1 on the left. English menu and staff. #:02-794-4225. Prices: 5,000 to 40,000 won. The perfect after party place with great food and drinks.
Naked Grill Naked Grill is located at Yongsan-gu, Hannam Dong 29-21 towards the U.N. Village. English menu and staff. #:02-749-4225. Prices: 4,000-12,000 won. Tacos and homestyle American favorites for eat-in or take-out.
Petra Restaurant Kebab House Exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station (Line 6) and up the overpass. It’s located to the right. English Menu and staff. #:02-790-4433. Prices: 5,000-18,000 won. Authentic Arab food made by a certified chef. Excellent Falafel, hummus, and Sultana style lamb and chicken.
Pizza Peel Go out Exit 4 of Itaewon Station and walk past the Rotiboy and make a left into Market Alley. English Menu available — davelauckner@hotmail.com. Itaewon’s Newest Pizza Shop serving fresh pies daily.
Roofers Go out Itaewon Station Exit 3 and make a right at the Fire Station. It’s on floor of the building across from the Foreign Food Mart. #02-749-2970. An artsy, spacious bar with good food. They have an outside roof that is used for brunch and performances.
Rookies Ichon (Line 4) Exit 5 and walk in the direction of Yongsan Station. Pass train tracks to your left. It’ll be on your left. English menu and staff. #:02-792-3383. Price: 4500-22,000 won. A sports bar with creative bar food and burgers.
Sam Ryan’s Bar Go out Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) and make the first right. It’s at the end, above 3-Alley Pub. English menu and staff. #: 02-749-7933 www.samryans.com. Price: 5,000-30,000 won. Sports Bar with 8 big screens. BBQ pork ribs on Tuesdays and great burgers all the time.
Sanchae House (산채집) Go up around Namsan Mountain from Myeong-dong Road. It is near the Namsan Cable Cars and the restaurant N’Cucina. English menu. #:02-755-8775. Price: 8,000-25,000 won. Savory bossam and fresh leaf bibimbap.
Suji’s Itaewon (near Noksapyeong Station), around the corner past McDonald’s on your left, 2nd floor above the Skinfood store. English Spoken and English Menu Available. #02 797 3698. Deli sandwiches starting from 12,000 won. Other main & brunch dishes starting from 10,000 won. Happy Hour weekdays 5 to 7p.m. Suji’s continues to remind us of some American-style home cooking by introducing deli sandwiches to Korea through its relaxed style of restaurant food.
Spice Table Go straight out of Exit 2 from Itaewon Station, turn left onto the first street (corner of Helios), Spice Table is on the left (2nd Floor) and across from Los Amigos. English spoken and English Menu Available. #:02-796-0509. Price: 7,000-25,000 won (Cuisine), 8,000 won Lunch Special Menu, 40,000-90,000 won (Wine) Stylish Asian food to Itaewon using a fresh and flavorful approach.
Two Broz. Go out Exit 3 from Itaewon Station and you’ll find it on the right. English spoken and English Menu available. #:02-790-0610. Price 5,500-10,000 won. Gourmet Burgers, Fries, and Hotdogs in the heart of Seoul’s International District.
Wolfhound Go out Itaewon Station Exit 4 and turn left to go down the hill and make the first right. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-749-7941. Price 10,000-20,000 won for food. The best Fish-N-Chips and comfort food in an Irish Pub atmosphere.
Yaletown 400 meters from Sinchon Subway Exit number 2. Make a left at Beans and Berries. English Menu. #:02-333-1604. Price: 5,000-18,0000 won. Great Pub fare such as poutine, burgers, and nachos. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/79
Listings
email:
info@groovekorea.com Suwon Scuba Club: A dive club close to Osan Air Base and Camp Humphreys, we teach all Padi courses and run regular tours for fun dives to the East Sea. Along with dives, the club has a major social element with outstanding BBQ's and parties on each tour. Please contact Nic at: nichofberg@yahoo.com, 010 3123 2061 or www.suwonscuba.com
teams Seoul Saturday Soccer League - Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts to call you for more information. Ice Hockey- Interested in playing with experienced and competitive ice hockey players? Join Korea’s original ex-pat hockey team, the Geckos Glaciers Sunday nights at 8pmin Anyang. Contact Charles at charfull@yahoo.com
intl. clubs
Handball - Team Handball - Olympic Handball - We often organize friendly games against Korean teams during evenings or weekends. Male or female players, beginners, intermediate or advanced players... everybody is welcome! Just email SEB at handballinkorea@gmail.com or visit www.handballinkorea.org
Investor & Real Estate Club Meetings - Every Monday @ Watts On Tap. Discussions on international dating, relationships, investments. Discuss investments with ROI higher than KOSPI average. Anyone with valuable or critical comments wins cash & prizes! Contact 010-5552-5568
St Pats FC - seoulstpats@gmail.com
Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) – This non-prof it organization offers lectures about Korea’s history and culture, while also offering tours to various locations around the country. Please contact raskb@kornet.net or visit www.raskb.com
Gaelic Club - If you are looking for a physical and competitive sport, while also wanting some craic while you are at it, then check out Irish football, aka Gaelic. It is a mixture of soccer, basketball and rugby. Male and female teams meet frequently for training, games and social events.www.seoulgaels.com
The American Women's Club (AWC) now meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the first Tuesday of each month. www.awckorea.org.
Touch Rugby - contact seoultouch@gmail.com and more information can be found at touchtagrugby. blogspot.com
The Aust ra l ia & New Zea land A ssocat ion (ANZA) meets at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at 9:30AM on the third Tues of the month. For more information, please visit www.anzakorea.com or events@anzakorea. com
International Taekwondo club - looking for new members interested in taekwondo and cultural exchange on Sat& Sun 4:30PM ~ 8:30 PM near Konkuk Univ. Email to tm3ym@hotmail.com or visit to http://cafe.daum.net/arirangtaekwon
The British Association of Seoul (BASS) meets at the Seoul Club from 10 AM to Noon on the fourth Tues of the month. For more information, please contact basseoul@yahoo.co.uk
Korea Ultimate Players Association – If you have been searching for some hot disc action in Korea, come out to play ultimate every Sun with the Korea Ultimate Players Association. Please visit www.koreaultimate.net
The Canadian Women’s Club (CWC) meets the second Tues of the month & also participate in a group activity the fourth Wed of the month. For more information, contact sujaybee@yahoo.com
Disc-Golf in Seoul - Looking for something different to do and want to be more active in Korea? We are always looking for new people to play disc-golf every Saturday. contact discgolf@naver.com The Korea Lacrosse Association would like to involve more non-Koreans, with or without lacrosse experience, to participate in the growing tournaments and leagues. Please contact by emaiil parkpc@lacrosse. or.kr or 02-743-5291 Football Club - Gecko's FC is looking for players, preferably with experience, for the start of the new season.We practice regularly, play games on Sundays and take road trips once or twice a season. Please contact geckosfc@yahoo.com
Lodge Han Yang #1048 the oldest Masonic lodge in Korea welcomes all visiting and returning brethren to attend our regularly scheduled meeting every second and fourth Wednesday. Contact lodgehanyang@ hotmail.com for additional information Seoul Fencing Club — Seoul Grand Park in Ichondong. Please go to www.seoulfencing.com or email seoul.fencing.club@gmail.com.
Crystal Palace Football/Soccer Team – We are recruiting players of all abilities to join our games played in central Seoul. Please contact Alex at harryhowlett@hotmail.com or 010 3040 6114
The Seoul Book Club, a new book club. We plan to meet once a month read and various works in English and then share and discuss our impressions, all are welcome. Please contact Sean at 010-3648-2861 or stm@iis.or.kr
Seoul Survivors RFC -Seoul Survivors has been around for over 20 years. We practice regularly and play a variety of different teams in friendlies, competitions and on tours. For more information, please contact Ian at koreanianr@yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282
K H Toastmasters is a fun, supportive environment to learn public speaking and leadership skills in English. Our group is a dynamic mix of foreigners and Koreans, and we meet 8pm every Tuesday in Hyehwa. Guests always welcome. A map of our meeting location can be found at: khtoastmasters.com
The Seoul Sunday Football League, a competitive amateur expat league, is looking for referees to officiate matches in Seoul and surrounding areas on Sundays. No official qualifications are necessary, but you should have a good knowledge of the game. Pay is 70,000 won per game. Also, if you are interested in playing, then we can also f ind you a team. Please contact: seoulfootball@hotmail.com
Southside Hash House Harriers: Do you like to walk, run and drink beer? Well then, come and join the Seoul branch of this world-wide club that meets in a different location south of the Han River each Sunday at 11:00am. All levels of fitness are welcome, just bring along your sneakers and a sense of humor! Please contact Countess at smcrae77@yahoo.com
Seoul Sisters Women’s Rugby Club: Looking for new members, both Korean and foreign, to grow the in-house league. No experience is necessary and there are great coaches to get you up to speed quickly. contact seoulsistersrugby@yahoo.com or check out www.ssrfccom L okomot iv Goya ng Footba l l Club: Play ing games in both Seoul and Goyang, we are a football team always looking for new members. Please contact lokogoyang@yahoo.co.uk or check www.lokomotivgoyang.com
clubs Free Bellydance Classes in English in Itaewon nights and weekends. Over 20 classes a week. Learn an art, awaken your body, make friends, eliminate stress, pamper yourself! http://eshebellydancer.com Bellydance Classes in Seoul Tues nights & Thurs mornings. Belly dance is an energizing, low-impact exercise suitable for men & women of all ages. Reduce stress, improve balance & posture, strengthen & tone muscles, develop grace, reduce weight, and increase self-confidence! bellydancekorea@hotmail.com K orea L at i n & Sa lsa Korea L at in and Sa lsa welcomes new members of all ages and experience levels for parties, salsa lessons in English and Spanish, trips, friends, and fun. Please visit our website KoreaLatinAndSalsa.com Seoul Artists Network (SAN) have a bi-monthly open mic that takes place at Woodstock in Itaewon on the first and third sundays of each month. www. purevolume.com/jeremytoombs | www.myspace.com/ jeremytoombs Writing Club - Looking to form/join a writing group. Meetings would likely be on the weekends, twice a month. My focus is on short fiction/prose at the moment, but I would be open to non-fiction/longer works as well. email Bryan at scriptingends@gmail.com 80/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
Section 8 Gaming: we meet Sundays in the Seoul area to play a variety of pen and paper role playing games, including Dungeons and Dragons. Contact section8gaming@gmail.com. Toastmasters International, every Thursday Night, near GyeongBuk Palace Subway station, for more information visit the following websites: www. toastmasters.org www.seoultmclub.net or Contact us at: profirving2001@yahoo.com Belly Dance Classes in English. Learn f ine muscle control of the torso, arms and hips, and interpretation of intricate music in English with an interesting group of women. Classes on Tuesday nights and Saturday mornings. All levels welcome. Contact eshe@eshebellydancer.com. Texas Hold Em in Ilsan - Weekly Hold Em throw down at cool bar in La Festa, Ilsan Tues & Thurs around 10pm & Sundays 7pm. Contact mrleon29@ gmail.com I'm all-in. May the flop be with you! I nterested i n T heat re? S eou l P l ayer s i s a n all-volunteer community theatre group which does two English language shows a year. For more info, please email seoulplayers@gmail.com Interested in Surfing? There are trips throughout t he w inter to d iscover Korea’s secret spots and g reat waves. P lea se cont act Nat ha n or Jack at Seoulboardriders@hotmail.com Bazzer’s Buddies Dog Walking Club Namsan, Han River and other outdoor areas around Seoul. A fun way to get out on a Sunday afternoon and meet new friends. Send an email to www.bazzerdog.com to find out when and where we will meet. The Original Seoul Toastmasters Club - Are you interested in joining a club of professionals working to develop communication and leadership skills? Meet new friends, both Korean and foreign, at the original Seoul Toastmasters Club. Please contact Joohun Park at jhpamc@hanmail.net and 011 9279 8299 or visit www.seoultmclub.net
Seoul PMS H3 – This is a running club for women that is also part of the Hash House Harriers. We meet one Saturday afternoon a month and are looking for other women who like to run, walk, drink and/or socialize. Contact msthanx4nothin@gmail.com or visit www.myspace.com/seoul_pms_h3 Karaoke Club - Join a karaoke club in Seoul with people who love to sing, whether you sound like Frank Sinatra or Frankenstein! We meet once a month. Please contact seoulsing@gmail.com Are you a vegetarian or vegan in Korea? The Seoul Veggie Club meets twice a month to check out veggie-friendly restaurants and enjoy picnics. Koreans, foreigners, vegetarians and non-vegetarians are all welcome. "Facebook group Seoul veggie club" MEETinSEOUL – Come hang out with a large free, all-volunteer social group. There are no membership fees, just pay for your own cost of the events (movies, dinners etc). www.meetin.org/city/MEETinSEOUL/ Yongsan K imchi Hash House Harriers - If you enjoy running, walking and trekking throughout Seoul as well as drinking beer, then come join us every Saturday at 10 a.m. For more information, please visit www.freewebs.com/ykhhh (then go to "hareline") or malgosia02@yahoo.com Hiking Club – The International Hikers Club meets every Sat. For more information, please contact sihclub@gmail.com Mostly Over 40 – This club meets for lunch on Sunday a month and, as the name depicts, consists of people who are mostly over 40. For more information, contact mostlyover40@yahoogroups.com CWG, ‘Conversations with God,’ discussion and study group is open for anyone who is interested in talking about the themes and implications of this book. Contact markyansen@yahoo.com or 011 9990 4291 Artists – We are interested in starting an artists’ collective in Seoul. Are you a visual artist interested i n t a k i ng pa r t i n a g roup ex h ibit ion? C ont act seoulcreative@yahoo.comForeigner/Korean
Club Italia hosts a lunch every Sun at 1 PM at the Franciscan School in Hannam-dong. The lunch costs KRW 15,000 and everyone is welcome. For more information, please visit www.clubitalia.or.kr Career Women in Korea (CWIK) at the New Seoul Hotel on the third Wed evening of the month. For more information, please visit www.cwik21.com or contact career_women_in_korea@yahoo.com. The Seoul Intl. Women’s Association (SIWA) meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the third Wed of the month. For more information, please visit www.siwapage.com Overseas Chinese Women’s Club (OCWC) meets monthly and is open to all women who would like to make new friends, enjoy good food and learn about Chinese culture. Chinese is spoken, but interpretation is available. For more information, please visit our website at ocwckr.spaces.live.com or contact ocwckr@ hotmail.com
announcements ARNIS/K ALI: Q: What should a Korean fan of Filipino martial arts who can’t find many like-minded Koreans do? A: Take up English and work with expats. Free 90-minute session weekly between Seoul Station & Sookmyung Station. E-mail ranger1231@gmail.com Nav a h Bel lyda nce Compa ny - L ook i ng for performers with dance experience or who are willing to train with Eshe for events in and out of Seoul. eshebellydancer@hotmail.com The Ang Dating Daan Korea Chapter conducts free Bible Study and distributes DVDs of Bible Expositions of the only sensible preacher in our time — Brother Eli Soriano. If you want free copies of Bible Expositions and hear free Bible Study, please call 010-5737-2561 / 010-3004-0817
Friendship Club: Our purpose is to meet at a bar on Saturdays to meet new people, introduce new cultures, share thoughts and have fun. Contact yupggiklub@ hotmail.com or check out seoulcircle.com
A m nest y G48 is an of f icia l g roup of A mnest y International Korea. This group is made up of both Korean and foreign volunteers who actively take part in the movement to promote and protect human rights for all people around the world. E-mail Tom for further details @ amnestyseoul@gmail.com.
Fusion Art: Seeking members involved in various arts (painting, drawing, illustration, sculpture, photos and more) for regular meetings and exhibitions to share information about colors and opinions. Please contact bakerycorner@yahoo.co.kr, chubbyhubby@hanmail. net or 010-6423-6037
A ll Native English Speakers, Kyopos, and Koreans. Proficient in English are welcome to join our weekly bible study/fellowship meetup held every saturday at 3 pm. We seek to delve deeply into scripture. Contact Info. 011-359-1317
Korean Movie Club: With English subtitles, people are now able to enjoy and understand recent Korean (and some non-Korean) movies and dramas in front of a 120-inch screen. The club is located just a minute from Sinchon Station. Please contact koreanmovieclub@ yahoo.com or www.geocities.com/koreanmovieclub
Bellydance lessons in English in Itaewon at the Well Being Studio by Eshe on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Absolute beginners welcome. Awaken your body and spirit with this ancient healing art. Details at www. eshebellydancer.com or email eshebellydancer@ hotmail.com
Seoul Stitch ‘n Bitch: This club has a crafting get-together the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month in Haebangchon, Seoul, Please contact seoulsnb@gmail. com or check www.seoulsnb.blogspot.com
Bible Study Enthusiasts - Weekly Bible study for Native English Speakers. We are having a weekly Bible Study every Saturday, at 7:30 PM. Everyone i s welcome! Ca l l me at 011-359 -1317 or ema i l homechurch-314@meetup.com or homechurch. meetup.com/314/ for further information.
S i n c h o n Toa s t m a s t e r s C l ub: L o ok i n g for new members, both Korean & foreign, wanting to improve their public speaking and leadership skills in an atmosphere where members can also have fun interacting together. Please contact Dong Wan at: intervie@naver.com
Seoul Global Center - Seoul Help Center for foreigners has been renamed and relocated to the Korea Press Foundation Building floor.
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Horoscope | May 2011
Aries Change is on the horizon, dear Aries, and a spiritual revelation or attitude breakthrough occurs in May that propels you along a new path this spring and summer. Adventure, travel, and higher learning call to you. You are setting your sights on the future instead of worrying about the past, and setting your sights high! There may be unexpected events that free you from confining situations. Financial concerns and mix-ups lift by mid-month, when a new budget will be helpful. You are ready to pursue romance and to take the lead.
Taurus Mid-month forward is a feel-good time for you, dear Taurus, when you feel the need to make a fresh start. Communication problems can be a bit troublesome until then, however, particularly when it comes to money and love. Love ties are coming up for review, and the need to put the past behind you becomes insistent. Some of you will be determining whether a romantic relationship is strong enough to be brought forward. A surprising new friendship could develop this month. Home life is animated, busy, and involving.
Gemini You are especially magnetic this month, dear Gemini, particularly in the second half of May. Love and appreciation are easy to attract this month. Your desire to learn, share ideas, and improve your skills is powerful. Strong energy for new beginnings in close relationships is with you in the last week of the month. It’s also a time when exciting professional and travel opportunities could arise, seemingly out of the blue. Stimulating changes in the realms of friendships, group connections, and business plans are on the horizon.
Cancer Motivation to make money is strong this month, dear Cancer. You are also enjoying lively friendships and group activities. The work you do could find financial support in May, or your work may be related to supporting others’ talents and resources. Many of you will achieve more recognition, a promotion, or a position of increased responsibility on the career front this spring and summer, and unusual developments in May seem to be pushing you in that direction. Work is stimulating and a little hectic in the last week of the month.
Leo Career and professional interests are strong this month, dear Leo. Mix-ups or delays lift by mid-month, and you are back on track. New ideas are abundant, and your energy levels run high. Some form of tug of war when it comes to finances could be irksome in May, but clearing up financial matters will do wonders for your outlook. Friendships are especially rewarding this month, and new feel-good connections can be made. Some of you will be meeting new romantic interests or experiencing a rejuvenation of romance in existing relationships.
Virgo Business relationships are strong this month, dear Virgo. You have that extra “edge” when it comes to appealing to superiors as well as co-workers. A change of residence, a working partnership, an opportunity to work from home, or an alliance with an old family friend or co-worker could be in the offing. Reticence about changes in a close personal relationship is something you have been struggling with for some time, and now is a good time to examine what is holding you back. New travel or educational plans are likely mid-month.
Libra May is a sociable month for you, dear Libra, especially from the 21st forward. You are making exciting new contacts and reconnecting with old friends. You are keen on sharing your personal philosophies with others and are especially intrigued with other points of view. Restlessness with routine is sure to get you out and about. Financial matters begin to clear up mid-month. Some nagging health or work problems need attention, especially those revolving around poor communication. Conditions in your close partnerships may begin to feel confining now, and demand a major overhaul.
Scorpio May is an excellent month for giving your close personal relationships the attention they deserve, dear Scorpio. By mid-month, tensions and communication troubles clear up. A partner is more willing to share himself/ herself on deeper, intimate levels. May 13th brings a rush of positive energy to a partnership. It’s a great time for making new resolutions. Finances bring pleasant surprises this month and next, but money could be spent as quickly as they are earned if you are not careful! Your hobbies or sideline work can be especially lucrative this month.
Sagittarius May is strong for social life, negotiations, and communications, dear Sagittarius. However, before mid-month, some conversations can be strained and non-productive, particularly with a partner and on the job. It’s best to leave important conversations for the second half of May. Some problems balancing career and family obligations are likely. Your spirit for adventure runs high, yet you are especially busy with work obligations and health routines. A new home or living arrangement might be in the offing. The 26-28 brings a surprising personal revelation. It’s time to listen to your heart.
Capricorn A mostly entertaining month is in store for you, dear Capricorn. While some communication snafus can get your goat, especially with a romantic partner, your creative flow returns mid-month. The chance for creative and romantic new beginnings arrives just in time to revitalize your outlook. The urge to work is weaker than usual, so if you can manage it, down time or a vacation might be in order. Finances are strong, particularly those related to the communications industry and online endeavors. You are especially intuitive when it comes to financial prospects.
Aquarius Important group connections and friendships come along suddenly this month and next, dear Aquarius. Conversations with friends and acquaintances can be eye-opening, propelling you along a new path of discovery in the coming months. Financial concerns and possibly even battles may challenge you this month. Straightening out domestic problems will also be necessary, and this sets the stage for pleasant relations with family and a more organized home life in the second half of the month. Energy runs high for romance, entertainment, and recreation in May. A partnership is animated and spirited.
Pisces Career opportunities are likely to arise this month and next, dear Pisces, quite possibly of the behind-the-scenes variety, or involving online endeavors. Energy for improving your skills and getting projects going runs extremely high this month, so take advantage. While pushing yourself too hard will never work to your benefit in the long run, taking some extra time to tend to projects that have been on hold will be fulfilling. Troublesome or mixed up communications are likely to clear up by mid-month. Love opportunities increase dramatically from the 19th forward. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/81
Konglish of the Month Runner-up
Winner: Mike Sawyer The winner will receive a food or entertainment voucher
worth W50,000 Please email your entries to:
submissions@groovekorea.com
Crossword
68 Fencing piece 69 Jetties 70 Twist to one side 71 Trade
Across 1 Reveal 5 Samms of “Dynasty” 9 “The Planets” composer 14 Scholarly book 15 Clock face 16 “__ there yet?” 17 Greek philosopher 19 Sorcery 20 Run-down 21 Mark as correct 23 Small birds 24 Benchwarmer 26 French soldiers’ hats 28 Bete __ 30 Virginia and Leonard 33 Epithet for Shakespeare 36 Guys’ partners 82/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
38 Traffic tangle 39 Neighbor of Miss. 40 Abstract notion 42 Greek T 43 Milk source 45 Carthaginian queen 46 __ Shui 47 Group of nine 49 Italian cathedral 51 Subjects of modern mapping 53 Supermodel Schiffer 57 Graceful bird 59 Elevate 61 Factory 62 High-toned 64 Sliding effect in music 66 Lawn neatener 67 Own
Down 1 Clinton’s prosecutor 2 Dike, Eunomia and Irene 3 Drops 4 London area 5 Language of Nigeria 6 French president after d’Estaing 7 Landlocked African republic 8 Smart guy 9 Radio operator 10 Address 11 Make laws 12 “M*A*S*H” actress Loretta 13 Gumshoes 18 Novice 22 Botanical gardens site 25 Spanish naval base 27 Assignment 29 Spanish warrior hero 31 “Saturday Night Fever” actress Drescher 32 Bullet 33 Commanded 34 Astronaut Shepard 35 Precipitation measurer 37 Beguiling 40 Greenish blue 41 Common fund 44 Type in again 46 Lightweight material 48 Singer Shannon 50 Guidebook features 52 Audible exhalations 54 Mother of Perseus 55 “The Jungle Book” setting 56 Lagoon surrounder 57 Popular dog name 58 Desert streambed 60 Criticism 63 Conversational stopgaps 65 Stitch
Final Thoughts
Philip Wood sudoku The aim of the puzzle is to insert numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain one of each digit from 1-9. Theres is a unique solution, which can be found by logical thinking.
Continued from Page 86 implemented. In August, the Constitutional Court likewise ruled against conscientious objectors, citing the current security situation. Two Justices, however, submitted a strong dissent, finding prison time for objectors with genuinely held beliefs “unconstitutional.” The Justices argued that a non-military alternative service system just as demanding as military service would eliminate criticisms of improper privileges and admonished legislators for failing to implement such a system. In 2005, the National Human Rights Commission showed support for conscientious objectors and called for an alternative service program. In 2006, the Defense Ministry pledged to study the issue; and in 2007 – after the UN Human Rights Committee (UNHRC) found the ROK to be in breach of its commitments under the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (ICCPR) for failing to provide alternative service for two conscientious objectors – the Defense Ministry announced an alternative service program allowing them to serve at social welfare centers for 36 months. But the Lee Myung-bak administration scrapped the plan in 2008, claiming a lack of “national consensus” and citing a poll showing 68 percent of respondents opposed to alternative service for conscientious objectors. In 2010, after Oh Tae-yang and six other conscientious objectors brought a separate petition to the UNHRC, the Committee once again found the ROK in breach of it commitments under the ICCPR. That was strike two, strike three came just last month when the UNHRC examined another petition by 100 Jehovah’s Witnesses and recommended the ROK expunge their criminal records and provide compensation. With three strikes against the ROK at the UNHRC, one wonders whether such criticism will prod the government into implementing an alternative service program for conscientious objectors or whether the government will persist in its refusal, citing
Korea’s “special” security situation and public opposition to alternative service. Opponents to the implementation of an alternative service program invariably raise the proverbial “floodgates” argument. As the MMA put it, for instance, when Oh Tae-yang first brought his first case in 2002: “If Oh should win his case, everyone will declare himself a conscientious objector, and there will be chaos on the Korean Peninsula.” While, admittedly, there are cases where individuals attempt to dodge the draft through fraud and deceit, this argument seems to rely on the cynical and unjust presumption that most Korean males, if given the opportunity, would do the same. Ultimately, the determination of conscientious objectors status is a question of fact like any other status that may allow one to legitimately avoid military service. And if the authorities are able to investigate cases of break-dancers feigning psychosis and determine whether or not an extracted tooth should have remained in place, then certainly uncovering cases of fraudulent attempts to invoke conscientious objector status is within their ability. Finally, it should be remembered that those Koreans asking the ROK to acknowledge their conscientious objector status aren’t looking to avoid civic duty; they’re asking for a means to fulfill it. Certainly conscientious objectors will be able to benefit the Republic and its national security more by participating in alternative service programs of equal length and burden than by being locked up in prison, as more than 5,000 have been since the issue was first brought to the public’s attention a decade ago. The opinions expressed here are those of the authors and do not necessarily represent Groove Korea. To comment, e-mail opinion@groovekorea.com. — Ed.
may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/83
Itaewon Directory Chiropractic Clinic (1F) International Clinic (5F) Global Village Center (5F) MJ Custom Tailor (8F) La Bocca M Lounge Between Healing Hands (3F) casAntonio (2F) Los Amigos
Spice Table Tiffany Nail La Cigale Montmartre Hollywood/Spy Smokey Saloon
Bungalow
Marakech Night Ole Stompers Rock Spot
copacabana — 02-796-1660 Come to COPACABANA where a mere 29,000 won gets you all-you-can-eat of the best Brazilian barbeque and buffet in Korea.
Sortino’s Fire Station
Roofers The Loft Pub Panchos Evan Tattoo
Club After
Don Valley
Unique Travel
Gecko’s Terrace B1 Gecko’s Garden 7 Bonji
TMAS
Seoul Pub/ Nashville Wolfhound
Jonny Dumpling
Unit@Bluespirit
El Plato
Cafe / Bar Club Restaurant Clinic
Nomad’s Pool Starbucks
Harlem
Cargo
Zibe
Don Valley — 02-796-2384 Conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon, this spacious restaurant accommodates 120 guests for delicious dinners and large parties. Open 24 hours everyday, it specializes in “Korean BBQ Done Right” - grilled beef ribs, bulgogi and bibimbap as well as many others.
360@ The Liquid NB2
NB1
Gr8 Hookah/ Ska Gogo’s2/ Tinpan 2 Hodge Podge
Jokerred Tinpan 1 Myungwolgwan Gogo’s/FF Ska2 Agio Sub-zero VIA Oi
Brix
Buy The Way
JONNY DUMPLING — 02-790-8830 Enjoy different styles of healthy, handmade dumplings made fresh everyday. Meat as well as vegetarian dumplings are available. LA CIGALE MONTMARTRE — 02-796-1244 Contemporary French cuisine in cozy and intimate surroundings.with a classy yet casual feel, it has a variety of food which includes a range of mussels. Its terrace brings an outdoor feel yet warm & dry comfort to accommodate the weather. LA PLANCHA — 02-790-0063 Spanish grill restaurant includes combination platters along with al la carte side dishes. Feast inside in the warm and cozy atmosphere or sit out on the plant covered terrace.
M2
Addiction Castle Praha
Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic
LOCO LOCA — 02-796-1606 Enjoy Salsa music and dancing in the vibrant atmosphere. Freshly baked pizzas with Latino flavors and the very best South American wines will be served.
Copacabana Loca Loca/ Bar 22 (2F)
Hongdae Directory
Craftworks — 02-794-2537 The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m.
Queen
Jun Pharmacy
9 Timo
Chiropractic Clinic — 02-798-1446 American and Australian trained, doctors are fluent in English, Spanish & Korean.
Old Town
Two Broz
Petra Helios
Bungalow Lounge — 02-793-2344 This bar and restaurant sets the standards of unique excellence to higher levels - decked out with bamboo, sand, pools, swings, a fireplace and more.
Outback Bar Bliss
MARAKECH NIGHT — 02-795-9441 Moroccan & Arabic restaurant offering authentic dishes, atmosphere and music. Wine, beer, juices and yogurt drinks are also available. Enjoy flavored tobacco from traditional shisha pipe. McDonald’s — 02-790-6413 Open 24 hours with breakfast served from 5 – 11 a.m.
Dillinger’s Bar
Panchos — 02-792-4746 A Mexican bar with darts, pool, television and a wide selection of music. A spacious setting with big windows overlooking Itaewon’s main street. Queen Queen welcomes ALL people for who they are and creates an open environment where different people from various backgrounds can cross barriers and unite as one community while having the time of their lives in the ultimate party kingdom! SKY Chiropractic & Massage — 02-749-4849 US trained and certified chiropractors and massage therapists. SKY Wellness Center integrates chiropractic and massage to correct your body’s imbalances and achieve optimum health and wellness.
What The Book Post Office Cup & Bowl
Cra
ftw ork ’s Bu ddh Ta a’s B co ell y En chi lat o
Bistro Corner Berlin Tony’s Aussie Bar Hey Day Cafe Petra Itaewon Animal Hospital
84/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011
McDonald’s All-American Diner The Pizza Peel
Club Volume
TMAS — 02-796-7976 Total Martial Arts System. Designed for FOREIGNERS and lessons in English. learn true martial arts, training and spending time together like a family. Unique Travel — 02-792-0606 A travel agency in the heart of Itaewon where English, Japanese and Korean are spoken. Wolfhound Irish Pub — 02-749-7971 This two storey Irish pub has a wide variety of imported beers, exceptional food and a great atmosphere. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. may 2011/GROOVE KOREA/85
Final Thoughts
Wagner Benjamin K.
(American attorney-at-law) is assistant professor of law at Kyung Hee University Law School.
VanVolkenburg Matt
Is the author of the blog populargusts.blogspot.com
Korea Vs. Men:
The Plight of Conscientious Objectors May 15 is International Conscientious Objectors’ Day, but don’t expect much of a celebration from Korean authorities. Refusing to participate in the nation’s compulsory military service on the grounds of conscience has never been recognized by the Republic of Korea, and Korean conscripts who nonetheless try, find themselves facing prison time. That’s not the case in most countries where, even with conscription in effect, alternative forms of service are available for conscientious objectors. Then again, most countries aren’t neighbors to a million man military dictatorship that routinely threatens to turn your capitol into a “sea of fire.” Whatever one’s position on the status of conscientious objectors, the government’s disdain for those it perceives as shirking their duty to defend a nation still technically at war is at least understandable. Korea takes its compulsory military service requirement very seriously and rigorously prosecutes anyone who attempts to avoid it. In 2009, nearly 1,000 men were arrested charges of evading military duty. In May 2010, nine members of the world-renowned b-boy crew T.I.P. were arrested on suspicion of faking psychiatric illnesses to get out of military service. The Military Manpower Association (MMA), which manages conscription in Korea, called their actions “loathsome and unacceptable.” In April this year, singer and TV personality MC Mong received a six-month suspended sentence for trying to avoid military duty by repeatedly applying for state-administered exams. When rumors — followed by criminal charges — arose last fall that he had intentionally pulled out healthy teeth to avoid the draft (a charge he was later cleared of), his TV career came to an abrupt end, with shows he had been a part of erasing all mention of him. The taboo against “draft-dodgers” has even blocked the way to the presidency. Allegations that presidential candidate Lee Hoi-chang’s two sons had avoided military service by deliberately losing weight before the army medical examination helped lead to his defeat by Kim Daejung in 1997. Despite contempt shown for those who avoid military service through fraud or nepotism, not everyone serves in the military. Those with health problems such as poor eyesight, or those who are the only males in their family line, are allowed to work for public companies or other agencies.
Those who refuse military service on religious or pacifist grounds, however, can expect no such alternative service. During the Japanese colonial period, religious groups such as Jehovah’s Witnesses who refused military service were sent to prison; the ROK has kept this practice alive and more than 15,000 COs have been jailed since then. Some 700 conscientious objectors are imprisoned every year. While the standard sentence was at least three years (it’s since been reduced to 18 months), authorities sometimes went to sadistic extremes, demanding those who had served their time to enlist upon release so as to repeatedly imprison them (one Jehovah’s Witness, Chun Chungkuk, served three prison terms totaling nearly eight years between 1969 and 1981). Even after release, conscientious objectors continue to face serious challenges. In addition to being ineligible for employment with public agencies and many companies, the stigma of being ex-cons and “draft-dodgers” makes life difficult. Because the vast majority of conscientious objectors are Jehovah’s Witnesses, perceived as a small and heretical sect, sympathy was sparse and their plight was seldom reported on. This all changed in 2001, when a forum focused on this unknown history of Jehovah’s Witness draft objectors. Later that year, Oh Tae-yang, a Buddhist cleric, refused to be drafted and turned to the courts to challenge the existing laws. In doing so, he evaded arrest warrants, secured a hearing before the Constitutional Court, and turned conscientious objection into a heated political issue. In the midst of the debate, a small number of conscientious objectors who were not Jehovah’s Witnesses began to refuse military service. The issue was brought before the public in 2004 like never before. A Seoul district court dropped a legal bombshell on May 21, 2004 when it acquitted three Jehovah’s Witnesses, ruling that the Constitution protected their freedom of conscience – a decision spurned by the MMA and 75 percent of respondents in a poll conducted shortly thereafter. In July, the Supreme Court upheld a prison sentence for a conscientious objector, but also called for an alternative service system to be Continued on Page 83
While the standard sentence was at least three years (it’s since been reduced to 18 months).
86/GROOVE KOREA/may 2011