THE FIVE-YEAR ANNIVERSARY ISSUE beer situation in Korea
Pregnancy can be a career-killer
dirty side of haeundae
Oct. 2011 | Issue 60
What's the craiC?
Asian Gaelic Games 50 teams FROM ACROSS ASIA will descend on Suwon Oct. 14-16
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www.groovekorea.com
NEW site!
Contents Groove Korea | October 2011
Photo by: Romin Lee Johnson & Ross James
Asian Gaelic Games pages 56-60
The Beer Situation in Korea PAGE 20
My First Beer PAGE 22
special report
beer pages 20-31
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Wo Gibt Es Hier Bier? E-Mart. PAGE 24
Oktoberfest in Five PAGE 28
Bar Review: Castle Praha PAGE 30
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Contents Groove Korea | October 2011
P. 36
P. 38
P. 45
P. 49
P. 54
P. 64
12 What’s On Korea Beat 14 Police Flaunt Citizens' Rights 15 Depressed Korea 16 Sex Crimes on Seoul Subway 17 Dad Kills Son, Gets 7 Years What Good is Your Embassy? 18 United States Food & Drink 32 Bourbon Vanilla Caramel 34 Gambas con Gabardina 36 Restaurant: Chef Meili Destinations 38 Dirty Side of Haeundae 42 Lijiang, Southwestern China Arts & Culture 44 Korean Goth Wave 45 Korea's Gothic Sense 48 Mogwai/Max Tundra 49 Album: K.O.R.E.A. 50 Dusk Rings a Bell 51 Book: Please Look After Mom 52 DVD: Secret Reunion/Moss 53 Movies: Tree of Life/Stone Groove with Seoulvibes 54 Danny Fry Community 62 Disc Golf 64 Seoul Warriors 66 Bras for a Cause 67 Korea Against Poverty 68 Listings 69 Horoscope 71 Dear Michelle 72 Konglish of the Month 74 Pic of the Month 76 Itaewon Map 77 HBC/Hongdae Map Final Thoughts 78 Pregnancy, Career in Korea Photo by: Kyla Whitnall
P. 72 Website: www.groovekorea.com Twitter: twitter.com/groovekorea Facebook: Groove Korea (Magazine/Group)
GROOVE60.indd 10-11
Cover photo by:
Romin Lee Johnson & Ross James Publishers: Sean Choi and MJ Kim Editor-in-Chief: Matthew Lamers Creative Director: Dan Thwaits Senior Advisor: Chae-moon Lim
Music Editors: Summer Walker Kathy Kearns Travel & Food Editor: Josh Foreman Community Editor: Rob McGovern
Chief Consultant: Michelle Farnsworth Sales & Marketing: Jason Song Intern: Charles Joonwoo Park
To contact GROOVE Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552 Disclaimer: The articles are the sole property of Groove Korea. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of Groove Korea. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Issue Date: Vol. 7, Issue 10 - October 1, 2011 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No.: Seoul Ra 11806
TO ADVERTISE: email: ads@groovekorea.com call: 010-5348-0212 info@groovekorea.com submissions@groovekorea.com opinion@groovekorea.com
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What’s On Monday
Sunday
October 2011 Tuesday
Jarasum Int’l Jazz Festival
with
Friday
Thursday
Wednesday
Busan Int’l Film Festival
Saturday Jarasum International Jazz Festival. Oct. 1-3
F1 Korean Grand Prix
TBS - Free Concert @ Seoul World Cup Stadium Whatever That Means, Seoul City Suicide & More @ Dolce in Cheonan Wonder Breeze Music Festa — Yongmun, Gyeonggi National Pigeon Unity @ FF in Hongdae Goa 3rd Anniversary @ ELLUI
1
Cupid Making Lucky! @ mASS Ssamzie Sound Fest — Namyangju, Gyeonggi
NATIONAL FOUNDATION DAY
Massage Mondays @ SKY Wellness Center in Itaewon. 1-hr full body massage and get FREE 20-minute FOOT massage.
Kings Of Convenience & Wouter Hamel @ Yonsei Univ. Amphitheater Junglist @ mansion
10% OFF for ALL BIRTHDAY parties at Big Rock in Gangnam
Bartender's Night @ mASS
Sliders Night @ Yalewon in Shinchon — Every Tues. 3+1 burger.
Wing Night @ Yaletown in Shinchon. 4000w for 10wings. Every Mon.
24th Kimchibilly Night @ DGBD in Hongdae Bloody Sunday Quiz - 1st Sunday @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. 6,000 won Bloody Marys! Brunch starts at 11, Quiz at 1.
9
All-you-can-eat Pasta Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Tues. Mix and match four different noodles and sauces!
Spoken Word/Stand Up Comedy, Poetry Every Wed @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon 8-11pm
2 for 1 Fish & Chips Every Tues @ Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon
2 for 1 Happy Hour @ NOXA lounge in Kyeongnidan. 7pm-9pm Tues-Thurs.
10
11
Dustbox (Japan), Locofrank (Japan) & More @ Rolling Hall
2 for 1 Special @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Everyday 7-10pm
Open Mic Every Tues @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon
Best Sunday Brunch in Town @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 10,000 won
Cookin’ Nanta Open run. www.nanta.co.kr
Wing Night Every Tues @ Nashville in Itaewon. 250won/wing. 5-8pm
No Cover & 1 FREE Drink Every Sun @ Club mass in Gangnam til midnight
16 Owl City @ AX-Korea
All-you-can-eat rib eye @ Gogitjip in HBC. 15,000w. Best bbq in town.
23
Seoul Shakespeare Company’s “Gore and Madness” @ ‘알과핵’ Theatre at Hyewha Station. 3pm
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24 HALLOWEEN
Insoone @ Olympic Park Gymnasium
Soulstar @ AX-Korea
17
@ Craftworks 8:30pm
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31
HBC Fest in Haebangcheon
Global Gathering @ Nanji Park
Ulsan World Music Festival — Ulsan Culture and Art Center
The Diamond Party @ Answer
Seoul Int’l Fireworks Festival @ Yeouido Hangang Park
Baekdoosan @ AX-Korea. Oct 6-7
AustCham-KorOZ Super Star @ SMS Art Center
Australian Chamber Orchestra in Seoul @ Seoul Arts Center 8pm
“Birthday Suits” A Solo Exhibition by Richard J. Beaumont @ Gallery Annabini. Oct. 7-13
Seoul City Suicides, Whatever That Means & More @ Club Spot in Hongdae
Men’s Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Thurs. 1000w of our Geumgang Mtn. Dark Ale and each one of our 24 single malts. Dames welcome.
Naomi & Goro @ Yonsei Univ. Memorial Hall
18 Wing Night Every Tues @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. HALF price with NEW flavors. BBQ Night Every Tues @ Roofers in Itaewon BBQ Steak + beer = 12,000 won
SO Music & Wine Festival
8
Jagalchi Seafood Festival — Busan, Oct 13-17.
F1 Korean Grand Prix. Oct. 14-16
Olav Basiski @ mASS
Soraepogu Fish Festival — Incheon, Oct 13-16.
Yanni @ Olympic Park Gymnasium
Canadian Connection Party @ Big Rock in Gangnam info@canchamkorea.org
Return to Forever — Chick Corea & More @ Seoul Arts Center
Pinnacle and the Antidote, Hit the Nine, Magna Fall & More @ Platoon Kunsthalle
Wings and Strings open stage and wing night — Every Thur @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon.
SmackSoft @ Club Heavy in Daegu
Seogyo Group Sound, 3rd Line Butterfly @ Gogos 2 YNot? @ Club Ta
Max Tundra @ Fabric in Busan
13
KOTESOL 2011 International Conference @ Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul. Oct. 15-16
Ladies’ Night @ Yaletown in Shinchon — Every Thur 1,000 won for selected shots for ladies.
Grand Mint Festival @ Olympic Park. Oct 22-23 Vassline, 13 Steps & More @ Club FF
Meta-Mor-Pho-Sis @ mansion
Ever Green Music Festival @ Hangang Park
Bucket Night Every Fri @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. 5 shots with mix in a bucket 12,000 won
“Cancer Sucks” Charity Event @ White Box Theatre at Hyochang Park Station. 1-4pm
FREE Cheese Plate with Order of Bottle of Wine - Every Fri, Sat @ NOXA lounge. 5pm-1am
20
19
15
14 Busan Int’l Fireworks Festival @ Gwanganri Beach. Oct. 21-29
Jeonju Bibimbap Festival — Oct 20-23
Drag Bingo Night Every Fri @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. 9pm
Seoul Shakespeare Company’s “Gore and Madness”. Week 1 @ White Box Theatre at Hyochang Park Station.
21
22
Whitesnake @ AX-Korea
RNB Thursday! @ Club Volume — Every Thur
Pia @ AX-Korea
Jam Project @ AX-Korea
Suji’s Sky High Pastrami Sandwiches — Every Wed @ Suji’s in Itaewon/COEX/ Bundang after 5pm
Shooters Night Every Thur @ Gecko’s in Itaewon. Every shot 4,500 won
SmackSoft, Apollo 18, Poe @ Club Ta
Itaewon Grand Village Festival
X Japan @ Olympic Park Gymnasium
Halloween Party @ Big Rock in Gangnam
Bye Bye Sea @ Sangsang Madang
Halloween Party @ Craftworks in Itaewon
Student Night @ Yaletown in Shinchon. FREE BEER with your burger. Every Friday. Bring your Student ID
Halloween Party @ mansion
College Night — Every Wed @ Club mass in Gangnam. No cover & 1 FREE drink with student ID til midnight
25
Ditto @ mASS
7
6
Win Blackberry!
Guinness Day Every Tues @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
All Day Breakfast @ Wolfhound in Itaewon. All day, every weekday.
Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) Oct 6-14
12
Quiz Night with Groove
Steak Dinner Every Tues @ Hollywood Grill in Itaewon. Only 13,500 won
Movie Night - Every Sun @ NOXA lounge. 10pm-midnight
5
Poker Tournament — Every Wed @ Fence in Nonhyun
Pitcher Night @ Yalewon in Shinchon — Every Sun 3,000cc Cass pitcher for 15,000 won
Drunken Chicken Night @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
Happy Hour Every Wed @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon
4
3
2
History of Rock Acoustic Show — Every Sun @ The Bungalow in Itaewon. 7 pm
BottomLESS Fries day — Every Wed @ Yaletown in Shinchon.
FREE Seasoned Chips with Order of San Miguel Pitcher - Tues-Sun @ NOXA lounge 5pm-1am.
Re2ro Party @ HOLIC
Seoul Int’l Fireworks Festival @ Yeouido Hangang Park
Quiz Night — Every Wed @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. Fun for smart people! Free coloring books for dummies
Pasta Day — Every Tues @ The Alley Italian Restaurant & Cafe in Itaewon
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English TEACHERs Night — Every Fri 10% OFF for teachers @ Big Rock in Gangnam
Seoul Shakespeare Company’s “Gore and Madness”. Week 2 @ ‘알과핵’ Theatre at Hyewha Station. 3 & 7pm
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10/3/11 12:42:32 AM
Korea Beat
All stories translated by Nathan Schwartzman at www.koreabeat.com — Ed.
Lawmaker Says Police Flaunt Citizens’ Rights The Depressed Republic of Korea
A new study has found that Korean police continue to run roughshod over citizens’ rights. Rep. Kim Chung-jo, a Democratic Party member of the National Assembly Committee on Public Administration and Security, released statistics from the National Police Agency (경찰청) showing that from last year through September of this year, there were 71 cases of human rights violations by police in which the National Human Rights Commission (국가인권위원회) issued recommendations. “The police are apparently still ignoring their duties and using their positions to run roughshod over citizens,” said Rep. Kim. “The police’s understanding of human rights
seems to be stuck in the time of the military dictatorship. Twenty-seven percent of those cases involved violations of fundamental rights. Fourteen percent involved police brutality; another 14.1 percent involved improper use of guns and other weapons; and 12.8 percent involved verbal abuse and insults. In many cases, people belonging to socially and economically disadvantaged groups found themselves the victims of police misconduct. Cases involving rights abuses usually involved physical and verbal abuse and discrimination, especially directed against those who had made requests for aid or ac-
cused police of unreasonable treatment. In many of these cases, the police had used their positions of authority to shame the citizens and violate their fundamental rights. Of the 42,914 petitions the NHRC received through July of this year, 22.5 percent involved the police. The police accounted for double the cases of any other organization. “We need to create a human rights index by which we can check whether human rights violations are occurring in investigations and other duties,” said the lawmaker. “The police currently have no human rights index to see whether rights violations are occurring in the various departments or how serious the violations are.”
Foreign Suspects’ Rights to be Expanded Detectives found to have flaunted procedure or made racially discriminatory remarks while investigating crimes committed by foreigners will be removed from the case, the National Police Agency (경찰청) announced in September. Ironically, the NPA plan comes soon after the controversial conviction of American Andre Fisher. The policy said the changes have been implemented to protect the rights of foreigners and expand the reliability and impartiality of detectives. According to the agency, investigators who use racially discriminatory language, fail to notify the consulates of foreign criminal suspects, compel suspects to make statements through force or lack of sleep, or fail to read them their rights, will be reassigned to the request of the suspects. Critics say the policy gives foreign suspects an advantage that even Korean citizens don’t have. When Korean suspects file
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such a request, an investigative means committee is formed to make a decision on the detective’s actions. But foreign affairs detectives will now be automatically reassigned. Furthermore, unlike the system of reassignment that can be requested after an accusation, in order to protect the rights of foreign criminal suspects, they will be able to also make requests during investigations in which they are subpoenaed or otherwise summoned for questioning. “Foreign criminal suspects may easily misunderstand their treatment as being unjust or illegal due to psychological or other sources of stress, so we have simplified the reassignment process and expanded the number of situations in which reassignment is possible,” said an official with the agency. “Explanations of the system have already been communicated, and by the end of September we plan to have it available in 13 languages nationwide.”
According to the National Police Agency (경찰청) and the National Statistical Office (통계청), men between the ages of 50 and 54, the baby-boom generation, now have a suicide rate of 62.4 per 10,000 people, 300 percent higher than the 1989 rate of 15.6 per 10,000. Over the same period, the suicide rate among men aged 30 to 34 increased 149 percent and the rate among those aged 40 to 44 went up 193 percent. Women aged 50 to 54 had a suicide rate of 19.9 per 10,000, up 83 percent from 5.2, but still lower than the rate among men the same age. Among men aged 50 to 54, the increase in the suicide rate is widely believed to be due to financial distress and related social troubles. The NSO’s 2010 social survey found that 44.9 percent of men who had considered suicide had done so because of financial distress, followed by illness at 11.3 percent and loneliness at 11 percent. When the won collapsed during the 1998-1999 financial crisis, the suicide rate per 10,000 people went from 29.5 in 1997 to 48.5 the next year. At the depth of the crisis in 2008, it went from 62.4 per 10,000. Experts suggest that when breadwinners lose their role as provider of the family, some choose suicide when they can no longer meet their responsibilities. “Men in their early 50s these days have always lived in the fierce economic competition of the baby boom generation, but are caught between their parents’ generation and their children’s generation and are now called the trapped generation,” said an official with the NPA. “Many of them make an extreme choice after trying every job they can after losing their jobs.” Meanwhile, another study found that instances of suicides among children and the elderly are increasing. On Sept. 20, the Ministry of Public Administration and Security (행정안전부) said that in 2009, some 81 children under the age of 14 committed suicide, the highest number in the past seven years, according to the National Assembly’s Committee on Public Administration and Security In 2003, the number was 33 child suicides, which increased to 43 in 2004, 41 in 2005, 35 in 2006, 53 in 2007, and 49 in 2008. Among those aged 65 or older, the number of suicides was 2,754 in 2003, which increased to 3,170 in 2004, 3,394 in 2005, 3,197 in 2006, 3,541 in 2007, 3,561 in 2008, and 4,071 in 2009. In 2009, 32,661 of Korea’s citizens died in “safety accidents,” of which 15,413 were suicides. There were 70,587 other “accidental deaths,” 5,838 traffic deaths, 2,144 falling deaths, 678 murders, 577 drowning deaths, 230 fire deaths, and 194 deaths from poisoning. october 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 15
10/3/11 12:42:33 AM
Korea Beat
www.koreabeat.com
Killer Dad Jailed Only 7 years for Son’s Death
Sex Crimes Skyrocket on Seoul’s Subway System
Last year, more sex crimes were committed at Sadang Station than at any station in the history of Seoul’s sprawling subway system. In 2011, there were 1,192 sex crimes committed on Seoul’s subway system. Of them, 173 were committed at Sadang Station, followed closely by 170 at Seoul Station, 108 at Seoul National University Station, 95 at Seoul National University of Education Station, and 82 at Sindorim Station. Six-hundred-and-fifty sex crimes were com-
mitted on Line 2, followed by 264 on Line 1 and 135 on Line 4. There were 464 “sex attacks” in 2008, 674 in 2009, and 1,192 in 2010. There have been 841 through July of this year. The shocking figures were released by Liberty Forward Party member Lee Myeong-su, who sits on the National Assembly’s Public Administration and Security Committee. He received them from the National Police Agency. The subway systems of the rest of the
country saw little to no sex crimes committed. There were 20 sex crimes committed on the Busan subway system, 10 on the Daegu subway system, four on the Daejeon subway system, and three on the Incheon subway system. “The subway system is the representative mass transit system used by a large number of our citizens,” said Rep. Lee. “We need to take measures such as installing more security cameras to eliminate sex crimes.”
Judge Kim Jae-wan of the Ulsan Dstrict Court's 3rd criminal division sentenced a 43-year-old man to seven years in prison for beating his 6-year-old son to death. Surprisingly, the judge cited the boy’s mother as a factor in the death in his decision to give the killer a light sentence. In the written opinion, the judge wrote that: “While disciplining his son, who was just 6 years old, the defendant severely beat the victim and caused his death, making it a very serious crime … In consideration of the victim’s mother having desired that their son be strongly punished, a severe punishment of the defendant would be unwarranted.” The judge didn't stop there: “Through his mistake, he lost his son, whom he loved, and the court considers that (the murderer) has taken responsibility for his actions and reflected.” The killer’s wife explained what drove the man to kill his own son. “Our son hadn’t been going to afterschool lessons and was bullying his friends, so I had a talk with him.” During the “talk,” the child told his parents that he didn't like studying and that if he didn’t beat up his friends, then they wouldn't play with him. Enraged, the father beat his son to death. The boy died in an emergency room in the early morning one day after being hospitalized.
“Through his mistake, he lost his son, whom he loved, and the court considers that (the murderer) has taken responsibility for his actions and reflected.”
SEJONG UNIVERSITY New Students Invited Master of Arts in Asian Studies
Sejong University in Seoul is now offering a post-graduate program taught in English focusing on the interdisciplinary study of East Asian culture, languages, politics, history, economics, philosophy, religion, and education.
Spring semester classes begin March 2, 2012 • Sejong University awards several generous scholarships to individuals who are interested in pursuing a master’s degree in Asian Studies and who meet the scholarship criteria. • The program is taught by a distinguished international faculty specializing in the major areas of Asian studies.
Application period: Sep 20 (Tue.) — Nov 18 (Fri.), 2011 Tuition fees: 80~60% waiver depending on certain conditions
Admission website:
http://asp.sejong.ac.kr For more information, please contact : Office of Asian Studies Program Phone: 02-3408-3107 Email : asian@sejong.ac.kr Address: 98 Gunja-dong, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul 143-747, Korea
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10/3/11 12:42:35 AM
Groove Asks:
What Good is Your Embassy?
The U.S.
By Robert (Buck) Waldrop, Chief, American Citizen Services Unit
The U.S. Embassy in Seoul proudly serves more than 120,000 United States citizens visiting, living and working in Korea. Americans in Korea reach out to our consular officers every work day, sometimes seeking help in emergency situations and, more often, to process routine but essential documents such as passports. American citizens can visit the U.S. Embassy to apply for a Consular Report of Birth Abroad for a newborn U.S. citizen baby, apply for a new or replacement U.S. passport, add pages to an existing U.S. passport, apply for various U.S. federal benefits or ask questions of a U.S. consular officer. Additionally, the Consular Section provides notarial services by appointment. For most routine passport renewals, you may not even need to come to the U.S. Embassy but can take advantage of our courier service instead. We offer consular services at the Embassy every work day and travel to the American Presence Post in Busan once a month to provide consular services to American citizens living in that area. The U.S. Embassy in Seoul requires appointments for all nonemergency, routine services. This means that we now serve everyone more quickly and efficiently. Nevertheless, U.S. citizens with emergencies will always be our top priority with or without an appointment. An emergency can be any crisis situation for an American in Korea but often involves the arrest, destitution or death of a U.S citizen. We are also contacted on an emergency basis when Americans are the victim of a crime. If your passport has been lost or stolen and you need to travel in less than two days, this also counts as an emergency, with proper documentation we can issue a limited-validity emergency passport. We ask for your understanding that there are some limitations inherent in our work. For example, we are prohibited by U.S. law from offering legal advice and from getting involved in personal or business disputes. However, we maintain a list of lawyers in Korea. We are not able to get U.S. citizens out of jail, but we visit all incarcerated U.S. citizens in Korea regularly to make sure that they are being treated properly. We are frequently asked for advice on Korean visa and immigration issues. However, in most cases, there is little we can do other than direct you to the proper Korean authori-
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ties. Similarly, while we do all we can to assist Americans traveling overseas, the U.S. Embassy cannot issue visas for travel to any other country. We do have contact information for other countries’ embassies in Seoul, however, and will be happy to provide this to you. The U.S. Embassy in general keeps very few personal records on hand, so we will likely direct you to another authority if you request a copy of your marriage certificate, birth certificate or other documents. Planning for life’s emergencies is an important part of consular work and we encourage you to be informed and stay in touch. U.S. citizens can register their travel through the Smart Traveler Enrollment System (STEP) to stay in touch with the consular section, receive updates and messages and let us know how to reach you in case of an emergency. Information about STEP is available at: http:// seoul.usembassy.gov/acs_service.html.
One of the best resources for American citizens in Korea is our Web site – seoul.usembassy.gov. This Web site contains comprehensive, updated information about all of our services for American citizens, including contact information and downloadable forms. Our telephone inquiry line (02-397-4040) is available five days a week for general ACS questions and for genuine emergencies an American duty officer is always available after hours. You can also stay in touch by joining our Facebook page, “Americans in Korea,” which provides helpful information, alerts and answers to your questions. “Like” us today at www.facebook.com/americansinkorea. And, when you travel, sign up for the Department of State’s new Smart Traveler App at the Apple Store. Assisting Americans overseas is the U.S. Embassy’s highest priority, and we look forward to serving you.
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10/3/11 12:42:36 AM
Food & Drink Oct. 2011
The Beer Situation in Korea
W
By Rob Titley
hen most people think of beer in Korea three labels come to mind: Hite, OB and Cass. The reason being is that government regulations on starting a brewery are too restrictive with the end result being that there are only two beer companies, Hite and Oriental Brewery.
Illustratio Matt (in F ko np erguso n ap by er .or g. n uk )
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Brewpubs and beer importers are helping beer lovers satisfy their cravings, but that isn’t enough for everyone. Those remaining few are part of a growing community of home brewers that have taken the matter into their own hands. Up to the end of 2010, a brewery must be able to produce 1.8 million liters of beer in order to pass government regulations. Those government laws have created a situation which has resulted in there being only two breweries producing all Korean-made beer available for purchase in supermarkets and convenience stores here in Korea. Those outrageous restrictions changed at the beginning of 2011 and were lowered to approximately 120,000 liters, but that is still not enough. The capital required to satisfy even current regulations will unfortunately keep most out of the brewery business. The above situation might not be so bad if the beer Korea produced was of better quality. Most of the beer brewed by Hite, OB and Cass use large amounts of adjuncts such as rice or corn in place of malt. This makes for a cheaper beer, but also one with less flavor. The companies also do not seem willing to experiment with new beer styles. Sure, there are Hite Stout and OB Golden Lager, but they are neither good examples of stout or lager, nor experimental enough. Where are the pale ales, the wheats, the IPAs? Sure, it would require money and effort to educate the public about the new beers, but that shouldn’t be the reason not to try. Koreans are proud of their culture and the products produced here. There is no reason why a Korean brewery can’t produce a lineup of world-class beers for its people and the world to enjoy. Since 2002, brewpubs have given some hope for those that crave a tasty pint. The brewpub scene in Korea is growing with several around Seoul and in many other large cities. While the brewpubs provide relief from the big three labels and brew nice beer, most unfortunately all brew the same three or four German styles of beer,
seemingly unwilling to experiment with their customers’ palates. There is light at the end of the tunnel though; a few brewpubs such as Craftworks Taphouse and Platinum provide patrons with IPAs, stouts, and ales in addition to the typical German styles found at most brewpubs. The beer import market has grown several-fold in the past few years. Importers are taking advantage of the government restrictions on breweries and providing beer drinkers with some variety. While the same situation can be found here with the majority of imports found in stores being typical German styles, there are many delicious beers waiting to be had at your local Home Plus or E-Mart. For those in the Seoul area recent entries now includes a
variety of pale ales, IPAs, wheats, porters and stouts. A thriving community of home brewers fed up with the beer situation in Korea created by the tough government regulations and lack of variety in stores and brewpubs have taken the situation into their own hands. With the only limit being a brewer’s imagination (and the odd ingredient here in Korea), one can brew virtually any style of beer he or she wants. Some ingredients and pieces of equipment can be hard to find, but one shouldn’t be discouraged. Rob Titley is the founder of Homebrew Korea. For more information on home brewing and the beer scene in Korea visit Homebrew Korea (www.homebrewkorea.com). To contact Rob, email rob@homebrewkorea.com or follow him on twitter: @homebrewkorea.
october 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 21
10/3/11 12:42:37 AM
Food & Drink
Brewer Chris Moore eyes the malt before the beer-making begins.
Oct. 2011
The author adds hops to the wort.
The wort is drained from the pot with the mash.
The grain mixture, or mash, is responsible for much of the beer’s flavor.
My First Beer
T
Article & photos by Roger Gribbins
he first beer I drank was a 40 oz of Old English purchased by a friend’s older brother from a small deli in Jamaica, Queens. My two friends and I received the large bottles on a street corner near my house, wrapped in brown paper packaging reeking of mystery and rebellion. The anticipation while waiting for the delivery drove us mad, and we greedily darted off into the night with our secret goods.
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Hiding in a culvert tucked away from parents and the prying eyes of suburban neighbors, we slugged cheap blended whiskey pilfered from my parents’ liquor cabinet and choked back the thick malt liquor chaser. The three of us got drunk. One of us puked. And at the end of the night we stumbled home chomping gum to mask the foul breath of stale beer, leaving behind the empty bottles of Old English. This event slowly became a ritual as we wrestled with the grips of adolescence, and the beer moved from the easy and cheap jab of malt liquor to the slightly more ambient domestic giants of the United States, and finally, in our late teens, to the more refined palates of microbrews and import beers with exotic labels. But one thing became clear that first night. Even in our ignorance and youth and with our novice beer-tasting palates that so greedily accepted the sting of Old English malt liquor, one thing was very clear that first, humid summer evening: beer sucked. The homebrew ingredients arrive in boxes. A large bag of grains and smaller, hermetically sealed bags of hops and yeast. The malt grains in their clear bag look like oatmeal and the hops and yeast look like astronaut food sealed in shiny silver packages with small white labels. This is my first home brew experience, but I am in good hands. The three other brew masters I am with have over twenty years of combined home brewing experience, and around 40 batches of beer between them, but this is the first time we will brew from scratch in Korea. The order from Beer School (www.beerschool.co.kr) arrived with surprising speed, the malt anxious to transform to mash and the small propane burner and 15-gallon pot followed suit. The conditions and ingredients we are working with are not ideal, but the process is also surprisingly simple. In addition
Yeast to be added to the liquid to turn it into beer.
The beer-making supplies came from beerschool.co.kr.
to the malt, hops, and fire source – all we need is water and time. The lesson begins. We heat about seven gallons of water to 177 degrees Fahrenheit (80.5 degrees Centigrade). The hot water is poured over the grain mix and set to steep for one hour (this method is selected for ease of process and because we have limited equipment and no real mash tun with a drainage bottom on site). The grain will add color to the beer and contains the sugar that the yeast will later need to create the primary objective: alcohol. This grain-steeping process, known as mashing, will create wort. The wort is also responsible for the color of the beer, the golden, amber or stout hue. The wort is, of course, derived from the malt grain – so it is really the grain mix that determines how dark and strong the beer. We sit, and wait, and talk, and drink bad beer while the malt steeps. As one brew master aptly notes: it takes a lot of bad beer to make good beer. A strong pretzel and bready smell fills the air. Layers of comfortable aroma surround us and the grain mix begins its alteration, and we boil more water for the sparge. After about one hour of steeping, the mash is drained through the spout in the bucket and more hot water is poured over the saturated grains. This sparging process pushes any remaining sugars, flavor, and color from the malt. The wort drips into our large cooking pot and the initial hints of beer greet our nostrils. The dark, English-style IPA begins taking form. The juicy, sugary goodness drains from the bucket. I sample the raw ingredients, the simple malt extract. Sweetness like kids cereal immediately smacks my lips, followed by intense starch and bitter pungency. This beer needs some flavor. Once the water runs clear from the spout the sparge is complete, and we set the wort
to boil. Ten minutes after reaching a boil we add the first batch of hops. The hops will add the flavor, the classic bitterness of an IPA, to the mix. These hops, Kent Golding hops, look like rabbit pellets. Small dark nuggets with intense aroma that explode green along the surface of the brown liquid and instantly change the fragrance, adding a bite to the air. The hops and wort are left to boil for 60 minutes. With 15 minutes left we add the aroma hops, and with 10 minutes left we add the finishing hops, and then the flame is extinguished. The large steel pot, like a witch’s caldron, rests after the last dash of magic. We stand above and breathe in the thick and steamy layers of intertwined bitter and sweet. The beer is poured into our carboy until it cools to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and then the yeast is added. The yeast will slowly filter through the mix, consuming the sugars and releasing carbon dioxide and alcohol. After two weeks, we will bottle and refrigerate, another straightforward process of sterilizing recycled beer bottles and squeezing on new caps with a capper. I am surprised at the simplicity of the entire process, and of the metamorphosis of our original jug of water. The molecules stretched and filtered to the desired mix. Anyone can brew beer, and everyone should. It is humbling to see where all those cans and bottles have come from – the opacity cleared. The liquid now rests while the yeast does its magical dance through the brown solution. We eagerly wait for the results, like teenagers standing on a street corner waiting for a covert delivery, and soon the liquid will be ready for bottling. We will steal into the night with our bounty and pass around the bottles for friends to sample, and if everything worked, and if the chemistry connected – this first beer will be different. october 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 23
10/3/11 12:42:39 AM
Food & Drink Oct. 2011
A man could grow dull drinking beer from Family Mart. Corona, Tsingtao, Carlsberg, Kirin. All in 330 ml cans. The foreign beer selection there is about as interesting as that pack of dduk you got for Chuseok. Most other convenience stores aren’t any different. You’re lucky if you find a tallboy Guinness with that ball inside. Five years ago you’d have drunk that Guinness happily, maybe even remarked on how five years before that you couldn’t get Guinness in Korea. But now there is something better, something so much better. Something strange and wonderful has happened. E-Mart has become the place to buy good beer in Seoul. They have dozens and dozens of beers from all over the world. They stock no fewer than 31 beers from Germany alone, ranging from cheap tallboy pilsners to complex strong beers that rank among the best in the world. A Groove tasting panel tried 10 E-Mart German beers recently, from a range of prices and styles. Tasters included Groove columnist Read Urban, a man with a palate and brewing experience; Chris Holland, a burly Canadian who prefers his beers to have some flavor, by god; Elizabeth Papile, Lady of Muay Thai; and Melissa Hubley, a champion swimmer who swears that a beer after a workout makes everything alright.
Wo Gibt Es Hier Bier? E-Mart. By Josh Foreman | photos by melissa hubley
A drop of dark beer is suspended in the air before falling into the cloudy, rich head.
Pouring the amber nectar into the goblet for consumption.
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Food & Drink Oct. 2011
Here are some of the insights we gained during the tasting: •
No funky ingredients in these beers. Many of the beers we tasted proudly claim to be brewed by the “Reinheitsgebot,” or German Beer Purity Law of 1516. The law, now repealed, required beers to be made using only water, barley and hops. Even the 5,0 Original, one of the cheapest beers we tried, claims on its label to abide by the rule. It’s nice to drink something pure.
•
A German wheat beer for less than the price of Cass? At 1,390 won, the Willianbräu Weizen 500ml we tried was cheaper than a 500ml can of Korean beer. Will another Hite D ever pass these lips?
•
As we progressed in our tasting from simpler, cheaper beers to darker, more complex ones, the difference between the two became clear. The more expensive beers we tried were robust, complex, full of flavor – barely even the same drink as what we started with. One of the strong beers we tasted, the Schneider Weisse Meine Hopfweissen, started smooth and fruity, ramped up to an intense hoppiness, then faded into a syrupy sweetness. Just sipping it was an experience. In contrast, Papile described one of the earlier samples as “the Sprite of beers” – there just wasn’t much to it.
•
It’s hard to think of words to describe beer. After we decided one beer tasted like dark cherries, Papile put a question to us: what would a child think if we told him that and then let him taste it? The first word that came to Urban’s mind when he tried one beer was “dandelion.” None of us had even tasted a dandelion, but somehow the word fit.
•
E-Mart is doing something right. If they can bring such a variety of high-quality beers into Korea, what’s stopping all the other retail outlets in the country?
Read Urban searching for some “nose” in his beer.
Canadian Chris Holland enjoys one of the lighter German beers.
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Schneider Weisse Meine Blondes, a light honey-colored wheat beer, is one of the 31 varieties of German beer available at E-mart.
Elizabeth Papile discusses the nuances and subtle flavors found in the selection of beers.
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10/3/11 12:42:44 AM
Food & Drink Oct. 2011
Oktoberfest in Five
1.
Dress. Even though you may never wear it again, sporting the traditional Ba varian gear will get you in the mood and looking like Hansel and Gretel before a “weizenbier” touches your lips. For the ladies, frilly dresses with plenty of cleavage called “dirndls” are sure to fulfill any guys’ wildest fantasy, while men don leather pants and suspenders in a cutesy, but manly outfit know as “lederhosen”.
2.
Eat. Oktoberfest can/should be a drinking session of epic proportions. To go the distance and not end up as a “bierleichen” (beer corpse), fill your stomach with some of the traditional and delectable fare on offer. Bratwurst, giant pickles and pretzels do the trick before and during a session, but gnawing on a roasted boar’s leg will transform you into a Bavarian beer-conquering barbarian.
3.
Drink. Eins, zwei, drei g'suffa! Steins are 1 liter and Oktoberfest beer is usually 5.5 to 6.5 percent alcohol, so drinking even a few is going to give you serious liquid courage. In some tents, standing up and skulling a stein in front of thousands of cheering people is a demonstration of bravado at its best. However, don’t attempt the skull if you can’t make it. Being jeered and booed by thousands of people will soon put you back in your (lightweight) place. Prost!
4.
Ride. If it feels like rain but the sky is blue, look up; you may be standing beneath the Top Spin, a gravity-defying amusement park ride. Oktoberfest is not known for its rides but after several steins they can be mind-blowing, stomach-altering experiences. If your head is spinning anyway, why not try and let your body catch up?
5.
Pass out. In the likely event that you do end up a bierleichen, there’s a comfortable grassy hill behind the tents. If you end up there you’ll be among likeminded, newly made, beer-loving friends who feel like they’ve died and gone to heaven. A friendly polizei officer may even ask you if you’re OK. Best. Party. Ever.
by Tyron Butler | photo by thomas sauzedde Tyron Butler made the long trip from Seoul to Munich last year during the Chuseok holidays.
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10/3/11 12:42:47 AM
Food & Drink Oct. 2011
What’s Brewin’ Bar Review:
Castle Praha
Article By Laine Ritter | photos by ryan ritter Note: What’s Brewin’ is a new series, in which we will scour the Seoul area to find the best beer experiences in the city.
W
e begin at Castle Praha, situated in a former cathedral with a blend of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. The whole restaurant has the feel of a Czech castle with the bars located in the basement floors. The space is very dark, with low buttressed ceilings, crests and coats of arms hanging on the walls, and suits of armor here and there. It felt very much like the real deal I had visited in Europe. Castle Praha offers seven home brews with varying prices and styles. We selected the ‘six pack’, comprised of 425ml servings each of their dark lager, granat, English pale ale, pilsner, Jezek Grand Pilsner and chamomile weizen for 39,000 won (a slight discount) and began tasting. The Stout was left out. The dark lager had a gently sweet full flavor much like a German dunkel, quite unique for a dark lager and you won’t find this taste in a bottle. Better than imported Guinness in the bottle or on tap but not as good as the Guinness on tap in Dublin. The granat started slightly bitter and less sweet than the dark lager but had a reasonable body and a beautiful dark amber color. It was surprisingly easy-drinking (easiest to drink of the six) and very tasty. The English pale ale was full flavored and well rounded with a rich aroma. This excellent drink had all three of my taste testers agreeing it was better than Craftworks. The pilsner had a medium head and the appearance of a weizen -unfiltered, cloudy but the flavor was all pilsner. Not our cup of tea, but it appeared popular with the Korean clientele. The Jezek had a nice head, sweet aroma, with a taste between ale and pilsner coupled with a gentle dark brown color. The weizen was a bit disappointing. Although nicely creamy, it was very light, too bitter, and not easy-drinking. The flavor is complicated. Maisel’s Weisse, on tap at Chef Meili, is a better choice. In the end, our favorites were the English pale ale, the dark lager, and the granat. Each was excellent. Na Zdravi! Prohst! Location: Hongik University Subway, Exit 9. Go straight, turn left at Bobo Hotel, go up three short blocks when you see the Family Mart, look to your right.
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10/3/11 12:42:51 AM
Food & Drink Oct. 2011
Urbs & Spices by read urban
Photo by Elizabeth Papile
Stout + Ice Cream + Caramel
= Hell Yes.
E
veryone loves a root beer float. That is a fact. We might not indulge in them too often now, but I remember the Friday nights as a kid: rented movies, delivery pizza, and the hope of a root beer float to finish off the night. It was a special treat because my parents didn't keep much soda in the house. Some people might be more familiar with the black cow or the Coke float, but my heart will always lie with the root beer float. Whichever beverage you prefer, the ice cream float is a thing to marvel at.
Now that I am older, the tooth-numbing sweetness doesn't appeal to me as much as it used to. Searching for something a bit more complex and with a little less high fructose corn syrup, I stumbled upon the beer float, a beautiful combination of ice cream and dark beer. The beer float is something taken from my dreams, the kind of beverage so simple that we don't even think about it until it is right in front of our faces. I have decided to share the beer float with Korea, and add my little touch to it: topping it with bourbon vanilla caramel. The first ingredient we need to talk about is the beer. It’s no secret that stouts are difficult to come by in Seoul. It is a shame, but I have seen some new imports start popping up at bars and restaurants. Still, it is almost impossible to find anything other than Guinness at the store. Oatmeal or chocolate stouts shine in this recipe, but, in a pinch, Guinness works just fine. A high-quality ice cream is also important. I could spend this article walking you through the ice cream-making process, but I doubt most people have an ice cream machine. Just make sure you grab a decent vanilla ice cream, because anything less would be a crime against the final product. I use vanilla sugar in my caramel mainly because I have it on hand, but also because it complements the bourbon. There is no problem using plain white sugar to start your caramel, but making vanilla sugar is as simple as putting a whole vanilla bean in a jar of white sugar. After about a week, the sugar will be infused with an intense vanilla flavor. Vanilla beans can be an exotic ingredient in Korea, and quite expense as well, so if you can't get your hands on a vanilla pod (I implore you to try -- it is worth it.) you can use a splash of vanilla extract in the following recipe. The caramel sauce is the only real cooking in this recipe. It is a quick process, but make sure to keep your eye on the sugar (it can turn from a deep amber to a burnt mess in the blink of an eye.) Also, remember that this stuff is like edible napalm. Use a heavybottomed pan that won't tip easily. You don't want hot caramel airborne at any point of the process. After that, it’s just a matter of putting all the ingredients in a glass. I feel almost guilty calling this a recipe, but that quickly dissipates when I sit down with a frosty glass of ice cream, caramel, and beer. Friday nights might have changed for me now that I am older, but I can guarantee that many of them this October will be spent with a beer float, homemade pizza and a good horror movie. 32 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| october 2011
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Bourbon Vanilla Caramel • • • • • •
½ cup white sugar infused with vanilla 2 Tbsp water ¼ cup of heavy cream 1 Tbsp butter pinch of salt 1 shot of bourbon
Add the sugar and water to a medium saucepan over low heat. Cover. Let the mixture come to a boil. Check on the mixture, watching for the color to change to a pale amber color. At this point, the sugar can go from pale amber to black in a matter of seconds, so keep an eye out. Right when it is starting to turn a deep caramel color, turn off the heat and whisk in the butter. Return to a low heat and add the bourbon and cream, gradually whisking it in. Let it cook for another 45 to 60 seconds. Remove from the heat and let it cool. If it is too stiff when cooled, gently heat the caramel sauce and whisk in another 1-2 tablespoons of cream. Make sure the caramel sauce is a bit on the runny side, so it doesn't seize up in the cold beer.
Beer Float with Bourbon Vanilla Caramel • • •
1 dark stout, chilled 1-2 scoops of vanilla ice cream 2 tablespoons of bourbon vanilla caramel sauce
Add the ice cream to a large, chilled glass. Slowly pour the stout over the ice cream, then top with caramel sauce.
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10/3/11 12:42:54 AM
Food & Drink Oct. 2011
Squid Ink by Paloma Julian
Photo by Edwin Bautista
On Shrimp and Suds
M
y friend took his five-year-old son to the market last Saturday morning. As soon as the boy got there, he knew exactly what he wanted: a shrimp. But not for eating; that would be too savage. He wanted it for a pet. After hearing about the pet shrimp, the thought of cooking the little crustaceans was almost painful to me. What would the boy think if he found out what I do with shrimp? That “Lobsty” was coming home with me, to be cooked and eaten? But I love eating shrimp. So, I decided to think the American way: I’ll simply remove the head from the animal and be done with it.
No head, no shame. The thought of removing an animal’s head before cooking it has always been strange to me. Countless times I’ve heard people say things like, “I can’t eat something that’s looking at me.” I always thought crustacean decapitation was a myth told by Spaniards who moved back home after living in the States. You know, one of those anecdotes that gets repeated over and over again just because it sounds good. Turns out trying to find a shrimp with its head intact in America is almost “mission impossible.” It’s not a Spanish urban legend — Americans really, really don’t like their food looking at them. Of course, some urban legends have no basis in fact. The one about how we Spaniards got our famous “lisp,” for example. The story is we had a king in the distant past who spoke with a lisp; everyone copied his speech, and voila. Not true. We did get something very important from a past king, though: good beer. Charles I of Spain, who was originally from Belgium, was the most powerful king in the 16th century and a huge beer drinker. He gets a mention in this column not for his power, but because he brought German master brewers into Spain to teach the Spanish people the art of making beer. Which brings me back to shrimp. What I want to cook today is one of the most popular tapas among the pubs back in Spain. It’s called “gambas con gabardina”, and literally means “prawn with a raincoat.” Basically they’re peeled, headless shrimp fried in a Mediterranean tempura style. They’re gloriously crunchy on the outside, but soft inside. The softness comes from the beer in the batter. I hope you have a wonderful October and start it with a pint in one hand and a shrimp in the other (headless, of course).
Gambas con Gabardina (serves four) • • • • • •
½ kilogram of prawns 3 eggs 250 grams flour pinch of yeast 175 milliliters of beer olive oil
Peel the shrimp; we’ll only be using the tails for this recipe. Separate the eggs into whites and yolks and whisk the yolks with the flour, yeast and beer until you have a creamy batter. Beat the whites in a separate bowl until they form stiff peaks. Carefully mix them into the batter. Let the mix refrigerate for an hour. Lightly salt the shrimp, and coat them in the batter. Fry them in hot olive oil. When they’re golden brown, take them out of the oil and let them rest for a minute or two on paper towel or newspaper. Enjoy.
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10/3/11 12:42:55 AM
Restaurant & Bar Directory
Food & Drink Oct. 2011
Restaurant Review:
Chef Meili
F
By Laine Ritter | photos by ryan ritter
or an almost authentic alpine experience (sans the Alps), visit Chef Meili. As I stepped into the restaurant, I felt transported to one of the chalet restaurants ubiquitous in the Bavarian Alps. The smell, the simple homey styling, the plain square tables, the German spoken by the Chef and customers, the cowbell and the pictures of people in Lederhosen and Dirndls; all took me back to Bavaria.
I quickly got to business with an order of some pretty good imported German Hefeweizen on tap, Maisel’s Weisse. The taste reminded me of what I drank while at ski school in the Alps. A goulash with bread dumplings and wild chanterelle mushrooms from Austria was my starter. What a yummy dish, with tender
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dumplings and a good consistency. The soup base did not overpower the dish but instead coaxed the subtle tones of the mushroom out. The more I ate the better it got. Although further improvement was not necessary, out came the entrée, a mixed grill of beef, chicken, pork and sausage that were wellseasoned, tasty and juicy. We were expecting a horseradish sauce but it came with a cranberry-mayonnaise sauce that added some sweet tones to the dish. The humble star of the meal was the crispy pork schnitzel accompanied by a green salad with vinaigrette. The schnitzel was the shiznit -- off the chain scrumptious, crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside. Finger lickin’ good, y’all. The overall meal was hearty and delicious, albeit a bit pricey. I ended it with some really dark and honest hot chocolate. Nearly perfect, second only to the shot of Feigling I would have had in the Alps; but I am in Seoul after all. Location: Itaweon Station, Exit 4, Right behind Gecko’s. Deli on the First Floor and restaurant on the 2nd and 3rd Floor
Rating: HHH out of 4 Stars Price: W W
Bar Bliss Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) make the first right. It’s on the corner. www.picturetrail.com/barbliss. Price: 12,000-35,000 won. Contemporary cuisine and highend bar. Great cocktails and patio. Beer O’Clock Head to Exit 1 of Sinchon Station (Line 2) Go behind the Hyundai Department store towards the 7-11. Turn left on the third street up. 2nd floor. English Menu and staff. #:02-333-9733 www. beeroclock.ca. Prices: 8,00024,000 won. Canadian Sports Bar with great wings, burgers, donairs, and pizza. Big Rock Brewery Head out Gangnam Station Exit 7 and make the first right and head up the hill past the GS25. www.bigrockbeer.co.kr. Prices: 5,000-15,000 won. Canadian Brewery with a great Sunday Brunch and good pub fare. Craftworks The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m. 02-794-2537 HBC Gogi-Jib Out Noksapyeong Exit 2 (Line 6) and walk straight along the street with the kimchi pots. English menu and staff. #:02-796-5528. Nightly bbq specials, generous servings, and open late. Le Quartier Latin Go out Sinchon Station Exit 3 (Line 2) and walk straight until you get to the big church. Make a right and walk about 500 meters. Look for the large French Flag. English Menu and Staff. #:02333-9874. Prices: 4,000-26,000 won. Authentic French Bistro with reasonable prices. Naked Bar and Grill Line 6 Itaewon Station Exit 1 walk straight and make a right at KFC. Naked Bar and Grill is next to B1 on the left. English menu and staff. #:02-794-4225. Prices: 5,000 to 40,000 won. The perfect after party place with great food and drinks. Naked Grill Naked Grill is located at Yongsangu, Hannam Dong 29-21 towards the U.N. Village. English menu and staff. #:02-749-4225. Prices: 4,000-12,000 won. Tacos and homestyle American favorites for eat-in or take-out. Petra Restaurant Kebab House Exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station
(Line 6) and up the overpass. It’s located to the right. English Menu and staff. #:02-790-4433. Prices: 5,000-18,000 won. Authentic Arab food made by a certified chef. Excellent Falafel, hummus, and Sultana style lamb and chicken. Pizza Peel Go out Exit 4 of Itaewon Station and walk past the Rotiboy and make a left into Market Alley. English Menu available — davelauckner@hotmail.com. Itaewon’s Newest Pizza Shop serving fresh pies daily. Roofers Go out Itaewon Station Exit 3 and make a right at the Fire Station. It’s on floor of the building across from the Foreign Food Mart. #02749-2970. An artsy, spacious bar with good food. They have an outside roof that is used for brunch and performances. Rookies Ichon (Line 4) Exit 5 and walk in the direction of Yongsan Station. Pass train tracks to your left. It’ll be on your left. English menu and staff. #:02-792-3383. Price: 4500-22,000 won. A sports bar with creative bar food and burgers. Sanchae House (산채집) Go up around Namsan Mountain from Myeong-dong Road. It is near the Namsan Cable Cars and the restaurant N’Cucina. English menu. #:02-755-8775. Price: 8,000-25,000 won. Savory bossam and fresh leaf bibimbap. Spice Table Go straight out of Exit 2 from Itaewon Station, turn left onto the first street (corner of Helios), Spice Table is on the left (2nd Floor) and across from Los Amigos. English spoken and English Menu Available. #:02796-0509. Price: 7,000-25,000 won (Cuisine), 8,000 won Lunch Special Menu, 40,000-90,000 won (Wine) Stylish Asian food to Itaewon using a fresh and flavorful approach. Wolfhound Go out Itaewon Station Exit 4 and turn left to go down the hill and make the first right. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-749-7941. Price 10,000-20,000 won for food. The best Fish-N-Chips and comfort food in an Irish Pub atmosphere. Yaletown 400 meters from Sinchon Subway Exit number 2. Make a left at Beans and Berries. English Menu. #:02-333-1604. Price: 5,000-18,0000 won. Great Pub fare such as poutine, burgers, and nachos. october 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 37
10/3/11 12:42:57 AM
Destinations Oct. 2011
The Dirty Side of Haeundae By Josh Foremam
H
photos by melissa hubley
aeundae Beach in Busan is where all the glitz is. It’s where you can pay hundreds of dollars a night to sleep at the Westin Chosun, water ski for equally exorbitant sums and eat overpriced Indian food. But down at the other end of the beach, down a little cracked-asphalt avenue that winds along the rocky shore, there’s a dirty side. Oh yes. Down there you can spy a booty cheek, eat flounder with the soju-reddened locals and wonder whether that heavily made up woman is a prostitute.
The dirty side of Haeundae begins when, walking east, you see the first “T-panty.” It continues on to the area around the jetty, an area that is filled with more seafood restaurants than you could shake a gochu at, and plenty of love motels. It extends out to Jangsan, a steep mountain close to the beach. This is dirty Haeundae, the Haeundae that’ll be easier on your wallet and give you a few stories, too.
Busan T-panty Might as well start with the dirtiest sight on the beach: the smallest T-panty you’ve ever seen. And by T-panty I mean thong (Tpanty is what the locals call it). When you see a German man wearing one in Thailand you’re filled with a mixture of pity, disgust and malice. But imagine this: Haeundae in September; the weather is glorious; the water is warm. People all around you are enjoying the beach in … jeans? GORE-TEX jackets? Silver suits? What is happening?
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You wade into the water, further, further, past the red buoys that sit ten meters off the shore, and … zoom. A large red machine is speeding toward you. You’re reprimanded by two dudes in full black wet suits, wide-brim hats and sunglasses. They’re riding a jet ski and pose more of a danger to everyone in the water than any riptide within ten miles, but this is their beach. Go back, within the confines of the buoys, they say. With all the inappropriately dressed people. You leave the water, dejected, wandering aimlessly east. Then you see it: the man is so bronzed he is an Aztec god returned to earth in Korean form. He’s playing volleyball and his booty is draped with a thong so tiny it must be a children’s thong. It covers at most five percent of his ass. OK, kudos to him for wearing beach gear to the beach – well, maybe he went too far – no, the man has balls and you respect that, and you can see them. You have seen the T-panty.
Digest Busan You can eat Indian food in Seoul. What you need in Busan is the sea made soup. Fish, crabs and octopus moving around on your plate. And eating this way is so much cheaper than the ritzy places further west. Start with daegutang at Sokshiwonhan Daegutang, on the first floor of the Hotel Navi. The restaurant is huge, and every table will be taken – a good sign. They serve three things: cod soup, cod on a plate and … omelets? Go with daegutang, the cod soup. It’s the most popular item on the menu and comes in a beautiful metal bowl. The soup has an artful presentation: chunks of white fish floating in pale, cloudy
Girls sit on a concrete sculpture on the dirty side of Haeundae, while the sun sets over the city.
broth; it’s garnished with a slice of white radish and green onions aplenty. The broth is really the best thing about the dish. It’s rich and contains the essence of meaty fish. The chunks of cod are nice too, if you can get past the copious bones that come with them. Every bowl comes with some cod head, too. Look out for that succulent eyeball. Another good place to try is Sae-ah-chim Mat-chim, just west of the Hotel Navi. Their specialty is also fish, and they serve theirs with bowls of thick kimchi chiggae. This time you get the whole fish, all fried up with chili peppers and green onions. The fish in this case is the red bigeye, a bright red fish with, you guessed it, huge eyes. You can’t really tell the fish is red after it’s been fried and covered with sauce, nor can you discern its unique taste, but it is tasty. The gruff ajumma who runs the joint might seem perturbed by your presence, but the food is good. And of course there are the fish markets. There’s a gleaming new building called Haeundae Sea Land that overlooks a small wharf on the other side of the jetty and inside is a small fish market. You can get the usual things in and around the market, in addition to such oddities as puffer fish, flying gurnards and many other small, colorful fish that are surely not worth the trouble. They also have shellfish, including king crabs that sell for – ready? – 90,000 won ($76) per kilo, which is about the same price as uranium.
Room with a view Surrounding the mini-wharf is a cluster of love motels that offer prices much lower than Haeundae’s reputable hotels. The Uni-
The view from the third floor of the Universe Motel’s VIP suite.
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10/3/11 12:42:59 AM
Destinations Oct. 2011
A hiker tackles the vertical rise of Jangsan.
A bronzed man relaxes with friends on the beach while donning the slightest of swimming attire: the T-panty.
Then you see it: the man is so bronzed he is an Aztec god returned to earth in Korean form. He’s playing volleyball and his booty is draped with a thong so tiny it must be a children’s thong. It covers at most five percent of his ass.
verse Motel has rooms with huge bay windows that overlook the ocean for 70,000 won a night. With that comes a hot tub, a glass shower box that doubles as a sauna and two big-screen TVs. The Universe is still unmistakably a love motel, despite its considerable amenities. Notice the sink just drains onto the floor. The TV is askew. The glass is etched with a woman in a position of ecstasy, her nipples exposed, yearning to be tweaked. But aside from that, the floor is nice white tiles and the air conditioner blows cold air. Crack the window and listen to waves and seagulls. And there’s the view. My god, the view.
Risk your life on Jangsan Just minutes away from Haeundae by cab is Jangsan, a mountain covered with land mines. It’s a steep four-kilometer hike to the summit. You’ll get sweaty on the way up, but the normal joys of Korean hiking are present: a man selling melon Popsicles and a restaurant selling makgeolli. The makgeolli restaurant is really the unique thing about this hike, aside from the mines. Imagine a nondescript chiggae joint transported to a mountainside, overgrown with vines and populated with genial mountain folk. The building is made of decaying concrete and surrounded by ramshackle furniture. Trekkers come and go dressed in technical gear that would suffice on a much greater mountain. Bottle upon bottle of Busan makgeolli is stacked against the building in yellow crates. The restaurant overlooks little plots of farmland. The view is nice from here, but nothing compared to what awaits at the summit. About three quarters of the way up, the trail becomes lined with razor wire. Signs appear, simple at first, then more ornate. The first is a small triangle that warns of a “mine zone” past the razor wire. The second is a larger sign, still in print. The third is a huge sign with a picture of a boot stepping on a land mine, a fiery blast rising up from the mine. The fourth is an even more graphic picture, this time of a boot stepping on a mine, except the whole toe of the boot is completely severed and blood or fire is gushing from the wound. Eventually the mine zone gives way to a straight-up military installation. The summit is up there with the base, strewn with boulders that make for good stoops. The view from the summit is well worth the hike. You don’t realize how big or beautiful Busan is until you gaze down upon it from that height.
Get Clean
Landmine signs along the trail range from soft warnings to grotesque displays of dismemberment.
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After a dirty time at Haeundae, the best thing to do is get clean at the Vesta jjimjilbang, up the little hill that overlooks the miniwharf area. The sauna is serene, but the best part is once again the view. Soak in the usual pools while gazing out over the ocean through the sauna’s wall of windows. Vesta is peaceful, the way a sauna should be. No kids doing cannonballs in the cold pool, at least not while I was there. And so we conclude our tour of the less-visited side of Haeundae. Next time you visit Busan, get dirty.
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Destinations Oct. 2011
At night, the town is lit up by thousands of red lanterns.
Tour groups sate their hunger at ethnically themed restaurants; the staff at this one gets a pep talk before the dinner rush.
Where the Chinese Go to See China
L
There are sights to see in Lijiang, and the Chinese see them in herds.
article & Photos by Josh Foreman
ijiang, in southwestern China, is a tourist hell – that is, it is wholly overrun with Chinese tourists. The town itself would be charming if the trappings of tourism had not penetrated every inch of it. It is one of the few places I visited in China that looks like old China – the streets are all cobblestone, the houses built of slate with tiled roofs.
But it is impossible to walk a few meters without seeing another shop selling cultural trinkets or wrought silver or cowboy hats or dog pelts (yes, inexplicably there are many dog pelts for sale there) or any of the other hundreds of things merchants sell to tourists. And man are there lots of tourists in Lijiang to buy it all up. Throughout the afternoon and night, limitless tour groups snake through the town, taking in the sights of old China. Except none of it is real. So many tourists and tourist shops give Lijiang a fake feeling; nothing exists, at least not in the “old city,” to service a native community. Everything is for Chinese people who come from outside the city to sightsee. And then there’s the fact that much of Lijiang was destroyed by a 1996 earthquake, and subsequently rebuilt. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage site. By day you can watch goldfish swimming through the town’s many canals; at night it is lit up by thousands of red lanterns. It is possible to find snippets of real China in the alleys of the city: here the rammed-earth wall of a building is peeking through a hole in a plaster wall; there a peasant is doing hard work in a field. But I guess the tourist deluge is real China too. Lijiang is a surreal place.
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A tour group gets a talking-to before heading into the old city. There are hundreds of shops selling goods to tourists.
The new and hip contrasts with the traditional in the town.
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Arts & Culture Oct. 2011
Lim Jong-Jun and Huh Hye-Jun, the husband and wife team that run the store Ghost
Korea's Gothic Sense By Frederick J. Mayer
The Korean Goth Wave has Begun
I
By Frederick J. Mayer
n 1996, just about ten years after the crest of the Gothic rock scene in the West, there were ripples of Goth beginning to show in the South Korean music sea.
Some of the first bands were O.H.N. ("Our Hot Dog Nation") and Rainy Sun, whose "gothesque" outfits (O.H.N.'s drummer personally designed/created the band's ensemble) and dark mood progressions in their music set in motion what would become the Korean Goth Wave. What inspired this deviation from the then norm of the Korean alternative scene? Rainy Sun's vocalist Jung Cha-shik told Groove Korea, "We just got fed up with the overbearing pop scene and the boring, un-creative so-called 'alternative' music being made at the time." What is Gothic rock? In general, the music arose out of the post-punk scene in England and the first time "gothic" was applied to the music (as it is usually believed) was 1981. Gothic rock is guitar-based with dark lyrics that tend to be introverted, personal, with elements that can be traced back to much older literary movements like "Gothic horror" and "Romanticism." The first groups labeled as such were Siouxsie and the Banshees and Joy Division. It wasn't long before the
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Dark Mirror Ov Tragedy
Gothic rock sound and style started to have an impact. The band Sisters of Mercy is considered by most to be the epitome of it. "We wanted to take the piss out of the music we were forced to hear at the time," said Andrew Eldritch, founder/vocalist/songwriter of the Sisters of Mercy. Translate the British slang term Eldritch uses and it's not so different than Jung's motivation. What is the appeal of the Goth sound and attitude to Koreans? A more recent addition to Korea's growing Goth pantheon Ophelia provided an answer. Ophelia's quietly compelling lead vocal Yui explained it this way to Groove Korea: "The essence of the music resonates with our Korean soul, 'H'an'." H'an has been described as an amorphous idea, like love or hate — it's intensely personal, yet carried inside by Koreans as a whole. In a way, it's suffering tempered by a sense of resiliency. Oathean, created in 1997, is the quintes-
sential Korean Goth band and the most influential one concerning the creation of the Korean Goth Wave. There are several things that make Oathean stand out from fellow Goth bands. The band, once death metalish, now plays symphonic death rock that incorporates traditional Korean instruments (one of the first Korean rock bands to do so) which embodies their lyrics of sadness and depression. In 2005, Oathean's album, "Fading Away Into The Grave Of Nothingness," became the first Korean Goth record issued outside of their homeland (they are signed to the American label The End Records) and it was well received by the world Goth music community. "There is no reason why this 'Goth' thing has to be a Western musical motif," Oathean's founder Kim Do-su explained to Groove with his brother Kim Min-su at his side. Kim Do-su took his love of the music and its rising Korean musical/cultural scene to the next level. He gathered some of the finest Korean Goth bands and created Jusin Productions, which has become Korea's largest record label for Gothic rock acts, including Ophelia. This past May, the Jusin Fest was held at the respected music venue Rolling Hall and it presented such bands as Hunter's Moon, Diesel Sneakers, Sacrifice, Ishtar and many more. This line-up went on to play such popular music sites as F.F. and
It's almost hard to believe that a basically British sub-culture's fashion style, which started roughly at the beginning of the 1980s, has now become a worldwide fashion statement. The fashion motif is "Gothic" and if you don't believe its global fashion influence, then just check out Project Runway's season 7 winner. The Gothic fashion and scene eventually developed in South Korea. Gothic music started to emerge in Korea around 1996, however, the Gothic "look" was limited to the band members themselves as their die hard fans remained in conventional casual wear. Then, around 2005, there was a cult hit television series here called "Hello/Goodbye Francesca." This series, which lasted for two seasons, though is sometimes still seen in re-runs, focused on the lives of a Korean looselyknit family of vampires. The show struck a chord with the younger generation for two reasons: 1) The show's unrelenting satiric look at Korean society and 2) The vampires, male and female, were always dressed in beautiful high fashion appealing Gothic outfits. "Oh, I love Francesca with their beautiful Gothic black outfits... Why? They're so romantic looking. It's from a more elegant time (laughs) and it's a bit spooky," Emily Autumn, a regular of the Hongdae Goth scene, told Groove Korea. Autumn's friend, known as Red Rose, confidently added, "The whole thing just resonates with us." If one wants to experience young Koreans in their Gothic glory, then one of the best places to hang out around is the Hongdae club Gothpunk. Depending on what the place is offering on any given night or what Goth bands are playing in the area, you will see them sauntering around. However, if you want to visually fit in, Gothpunk has a jewelry/clothing annex called KIRA. The store has everything a true Goth devotee desires. "We knew there was a market ... The appeal? It's all a very retro thing right now,” said Yun Seong of Gothpunk. “The whole thing has a certain attraction. You can live your dream ... of course, it allows one to emulate the visuals that go along with the videos, bands and music." The Gothic fashion craze has even reached into the K-pop video and performance realm. The popular all girl group 2NE1 (pronounced "21"), who are renown for their cutting edge fashion sense, created a Gothic video to go along with
Read the interview in November with SeoulVibes
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Arts & Culture Oct. 2011
Sapiens 7. The Korean Goth community has made it clear, thanks in part to Kim's tireless efforts, that it is no longer a sub-level section of the alternative music establishment. However, there is one notable Goth band who finally established "Korean Gothic rock." The band is Dark Mirror Ov Tragedy (name refers to the mirror used by Nostrodamus "to see the dark, cursed future.") and they first appeared in 2003. Just as British Goth developed out of their post punk period, many Korean Goth bands, such as Dark Mirror, got their start in the Korean Black/Death metal scene. "The Koreanizing of our band's music helped set us apart from numerous other death metal groups...we did it by combining the Western based music with traditional Korean music ... we, sort of, morphed into a gothic one," Dark Mirror vocalist Material Pneuma said in an interview. Pneuma described the band's outlook: "Our music has a cathartic essence to it, rather than making the listeners delve further into depression." Recently, Dark Mirror Ov Tragedy's music received an appreciative response in England. Today, the Goth sound and style have even entered Korea's pop world. One of its top diva girl acts, 2NE1, recorded a visually Gothic video and the song itself is Goth-pop ala the Korean glam-Goth group Eve. There is a German Goth band, Krypteria, whose lead singer is Korean, Cho Ji-in. There is even a Swedish Goth band called Korea. A cursed future? It isn't for Gothic rock fans because whenever Korean Goth groups are exposed to the rest of the world, they are hailed as one of the best in the genre. The wave has begun.
their hit song "It Hurts." It is a sophisticated, stylized romantic Gothic imagery right down to the black dresses, spider webs and silver skulls. Similar outfits are available at KIRA. "The skull motif is really in now both as jewelry and fashion wear," Yun Seong pointed out. At the core of the whole Gothic scene is the sudden rise of Korean Goth rock bands. And, the shop that lies in the heart of it all is Itaewon's Ghost. The store's owner Lim Jong-jun, who runs it with his wife Huh Hye-jung, said he started the store because he was really into rock. Ghost is really two stores. The namesake shop carries a myriad of silver jewelry and an outstanding array of Gothic paraphernalia. It is a sheer pleasure just checking out the store, because it's so visually impressive with its artistic depth. Ghost even has a pet tarantula and it is epicurean to watch Lim feed it. The other part of the store is called
Ophelia
"The skull motif is really in now both as jewelry and fashion wear." Deep Cover and it stocks vintage clothes that easily harmonize with the Gothic spirit. "There is a real interest now in vintage clothing. People are reaching back for something," Huh said. And why all the interest in skulls? Lim
gave a great enthusiastic laugh: "Skulls equal Rock!" And this scene and fashion fad is gaining momentum. "It's not too large right now, but it is growing,� said Lim. “It's what we call a 'mania' at the moment."
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Arts & Culture Oct. 2011
Super Color Super:
Mogwai, Max Tundra Prove Seoul’s Growing Influence
Album Review:
Mogwai Scottish post-rock veterans Mogwai will bring their massive (12 amps!) stage-show to Ax-Korea on Nov. 30 at 7p.m. The instrumental five-piece have released seven studio albums on indie mainstays Matador and Sub-pop. Their latest, “Hardcore Will Never Die, But You Will,” lives up to the band’s reputation for weaving back and forth between cathartic, glacier-sized guitar riffs and ethereal, introspective pieces. The Glasgow quintet has a reputation for giving inspiring performances. The Welsh website Louder Than War attests, remarking, “Guitars will soar and dive, there will be grand swollen crescendos crashing over cliff faces and parts where there is little more than a whisper coming out of those towering stacks.” The band’s gigantic sound seems tailor-made for large audiences and they’ve played to plenty of them, touring with both The Cure and The Pixies, as well as performing at festivals like Reading, Coachella, and Primavera. Their performance in Seoul is a milestone for Super Color Super and Korea’s music scene, proving Seoul’s newfound status as a credible tour-stop for bands with international recognition. Ax-Korea promises to be a great place to catch them as well, as it’s known for crystal-clear sound and opulent projections. The word “Mogwai” is Cantonese for “ghost” and it’s fitting, as the venue is sure to take on an otherworldly feeling that evening.
Max Tundra If videogames were to exist in pure music-form, they’d be Max Tundra’s tunes. Londoner Max Tundra, a.k.a. Ben Jacobs, dices and assembles a hodgepodge of keyboard chimes, warped guitars and glitchy beats into a twirling madness of dance floor anthems. The listeners jump and roll through Jacobs’ sonic-maze with what feels like a 4 a.m. high of plowing through too many Sharpies for an art project. He’s got so many ideas glistening in the unusual time signatures and impressive range of instruments he uses (accordions, sunny horns, trumpets, synthetic harpsichords, vibraphones, and a 1985 Commodore Amiga 500 computer to name a few), that you start to feel like they’re rubbing off on you, too. Jacobs layers an analog touch to his style by playing his instruments himself instead of lifting them off samples. The final result of this saturation of creativity is a heel-rocking, mind-bending, and insanely catchy aural videogame. Super Color Super brings Max Tundra to Korea for the first time on Oct. 12-15, giving his Korean fans the chance to craze out to his mind-boggling dance tracks. Bet he’ll make you move like you’re up against Neo Exdeath in a dance-off.
www.supercolorsuper.com
"Lock Rottery" in Jeonju By Christina Murphy
“Four weeks, four songs, including at least one original, and I don’t even know who is in my band yet. Oh God, what am I doing?” cringes violinist Kelly Neilan, as she nervously awaits the draw of Jeonju’s 4th Annual Rock Lottery. In a city so big on tradition and food, Jeonju’s music community, composed of both expats and Koreans is quite the phenomenon. Whether it is fate, destiny or just random recruitment, here is a town with a lot to offer in the music department. In its 4th year, its 3rd time being held at 48 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| october 2011
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Radio Star, the mix of participants is as diverse and interesting as it was that very first time four years ago. So far, this year there are six bands, practicing, creating and preparing for the big show on the evening of Saturday Oct. 15 at Jeonju’s favorite musical basement, Radio Star. The bands consist of Koreans, non-Koreans, English teachers, musicians from other bands and just people with a little bit of talent and a hope of making new friends. “This event is for anybody who wants to
make any kind of sound,” adds David Van Minnen, who took the reigns as organizer after participating in the first concert four years ago. “It’s both socially and musically stretching.” "It's great to get together with people you normally don't play with, or if you don't play with anyone, get a chance to meet other musicians and make something happen. A lot of friendships and future bands are made from this annual event," says Scott Slepicka, who is taking time out from his own band, In Your Eyes, to participate. "Each band also needs to write an original song besides four covers. I'm excited to see what the creativity of Jeonju's musicians will produce,” adds Patrick Bradley, also taking time out from his band, Carpe Delirium for the event. Radio Star is about a 4,000 won taxi ride from the bus terminal and is within stumbling distance of motels and jjimjilbang. For more information, see the Facebook event, which can be found on the Radio Star page.
Pinnacle TheHustler’s ‘K.O.R.E.A.’ By Reginald Robinson
“K.O.R.E.A. The Album” takes you back to a time in Hip Hop when the music was both fun and introspective. The album is nostalgic, without fully remaining in the not-sodistant past of hip-hop culture. On the track “Drop the Bomb,” Pinnacle invokes the rhyme scheme that was made popular in the late 80’s before switching back to his trademark machine gun flow. However, Pinnacle’s flow is on full display with the safety button off on “We go Hard in Korea.” Even though he raps like an automatic weapon, he doesn’t compromise precision or clarity, leaving his haters wondering if they should wear a Teflon vest. The stand-out songs on the record are “Hip Hop Got Seoul” and “The Game.” The former track is over a smooth beat by legendary producer J. Dilla. The song serves as a de facto ode to the producer extraordinaire. The latter track finds Pinnacle painting an audio picture about the game that we all must play in life. Pinnacle shines on this track and tucks away the bravado, letting his vulnerability surface. With lyrics like “It’s a crazy game that we play, I think it’s safe to say that it’s hard to maintain the same brain,” Pinnacle gives the listener insight on the inner workings of an individual faced with societal ills. Interestingly, the original title of the album was slated as “North Korea,” but Pinnacle TheHustler decided to rename it “K.O.R.E.A. The Album” (the acronym is hidden in the music). Imagine the heat the album would have taken had the original titled remained. “K.O.R.E.A. The Album” is an LP that you can’t nail down because it’s a little bit of everything, without lacking focus. It’s an album that pays homage to the Golden Age of hiphop (a period in hip hop culture between the 1980’s and 90’s that characterized diversity in style and music). This album has returned to the formula of an emcee being more than a rapper, but an individual that is complex and vulnerable. It is trend that in recent years has been resurrected by artists akin to Kanye West, Drake and Kendrick Lamar.
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Arts & Culture
book review By Todd Sharp
Oct. 2011
Exploring the Past Through the Present By Wendy Taylor photo by chris backe
Life has a way of steering us in one direction or another. In the latest melodramatic play from Probationary Theatre Company, this universal theme is explored. The play, “Dusk Rings a Bell,” by Stephen Belber, tells the story of two people fortunate (or unfortunate) enough to encounter each other 25 years after a time in which they were both at their very best and the challenges of disillusionment that brings. Set in modern times, this Broadway favorite displays bits of humor, with a natural, compassionate dialogue. With its minimalist stagecraft and lyrical rhetoric, “Dusk” transforms into more of an old school, artistic performance, where scenes are described and imagined rather than laid out on stage. “Using six black boxes that will convert into a bench, a table, and a lifeguard chair, allows the audience to immerse themselves into the content of the characters rather than focus on small visual details,” said the first-time director, Tara Herman. “I was originally not a fan of ‘sceneless’ stage dress, but the flow of the monologues and dialogue with the movement and
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changes of the black boxes really creates a beautiful, harmonic dance.” The evocative play takes place in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. Herman was excited by the chance to put on a show that was familiar territory to her. Growing up near Washington D.C., where the lead role of Molly is from, Herman understands the longing for Rehoboth Beach during “Beach Week” in high school. “Rehoboth Beach is such a perfect mixture of historic charm and contemporary energy that it’s a perfect setting for the play.” Both actors are Australian; Desiree Munro plays Molly, and Daniel White plays Ray. “As verbose as they can be, they are almost lyrical in their emotion. It is just a lovely, bittersweet story that everyone can relate to and I feel honored to have been chosen over an American actor,” said Munro. White adds: “The accent is easy, but learning the rhythm of American dialect is a bit like learning Shakespeare. The inflections are quite different.” Neither are new to the theatre and both have been good friends for many years. They grew up in Melbourne, Australia together. “It’s because of their great chemistry that I cast them together. I’m sure it’s because they’ve been friends for so long,” said Herman. “Dusk Rings a Bell” opens on Oct. 7 and will run through Oct. 16 (weekends only). Please see www.probationarytheatre.com for more details or make contact at probationarytheatre@gmail.com.
‘Mom’ is a Uniquely Korean novel
'Please Look After Mom' By Kyung-Sook Shin 256 pp / Knopf Han is a concept probably familiar to those who’ve enjoyed the Korean arts, from “Arirang” to “Joint Security Area,” even if they aren’t familiar with the term. Korean-English dictionaries often define “Han” as a form of regret or an unsatisfied desire. However, Korea’s long history of fending off invasions from Mongolians, Japanese, Chinese, and others give it a sense of injustice, as though someone or something specific has done them wrong. Along with the titular maternal character, the center of “Please Look After Mom” by Kyung-Sook Shin is Han. It centers around a family whose mother has gone missing, leaving them to reflect – apparently for the first time – on what she has meant to them even as they struggle to find her. As the pages turn, and the point of view shifts from one family member to another, eventually to the mother herself, and the details of her unjust ordeal pour out in a steady stream. Celebration of her birthdays is not so much forgotten as gradually phased out. Her gifts to her children are not appreciated, if they are taken at all. She develops breast cancer,
the effects of which are detailed graphically. It’s even revealed that she cannot read, the result of education being less readily available in her childhood. This is a fact of particular relevance in a country where illiteracy is almost non-existent and the people pride themselves on how easy it is to learn the native writing system. That one of her children will grow up to be a novelist, making her living with the written word, is just one way they will come to grow apart. And this is why “Mom” is a uniquely South Korean novel. Han remains so strong in this country’s artistic endeavors because few nations can claim to have suffered through ordeals of similar magnitude in the first half of the 20th century – when the mother grew up – and those nations that have did not see their growth explode in a similar manner in the second half. Like the children in this novel, Korean society is full of people, now well into adulthood, accustomed to helping aid national growth by proving their devotion to their employers. Stories in the local media of elder abuse and abandonment indicate that the generation before them has competed for that devotion and lost. That is why I cannot talk about what this book means to Korean readers. I can say
that the message that one’s parents ought to be honored and the sacrifices they made remembered is certainly one that people of all nations can learn from. To this Western reader, though, the novel’s sense of tragedy is diluted by its ubiquity: I’ve read many a Cormac McCarthy novel (and seen my share of Park Chan-wook films) where the story held the reader, introducing what the characters had to lose along the way. Then, when the tragedy strikes, the sense of bereavement is even more poignant. “Mom” starts out bleak – she has disappeared before the narration even begins – and as the family makes their clumsy attempts at locating her a sense of futility sinks in. When a look into the mother’s head is finally granted, she offers little by way of surprising (or interesting) observations, the way the mother in Faulkner’s “As I Lay Dying” does. And in the family’s recollections there is but one moment of satisfaction, in how a husband’s infidelity is dealt with, but schadenfreude makes a poor substitute for triumph. The best thing I can say about “Mom” is that, for a translated novel, it has done surprisingly well abroad, having been introduced in dozens of countries and winning mostly positive reviews from sources such as The Washington Post and Wall Street Journal. Hopefully this will open the doors for more novels out of this country, providing the chance for another author (or maybe even Shin) to do the concept of Han more justice.
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Arts & Culture Oct. 2011
at the box office By Dean Crawford
korean DVD corner
By Daniel Joseph Vorderstrasse
The Tree of Life “Mesmerizing,” said one critic. “Brilliant” said another. Peter Bradshaw from The Guardian called it “a hugely ambitious and passionate masterpiece.” This is but a fraction of the praise that has been poured on The Tree of Life, winner of the Palme d’Or at this year’s Cannes Film Festival and the fifth film in 30 years from visionary auteur Terrence Malick. I’ve tried to stay away from any spoilers in an attempt to go into the movie with an open mind. But seeing as the film has been out since June and has been discussed on every corner of the internet, it has been practically impossible. What I do know about the plot is that on the surface, “The Tree of Life” is the story of Jack (Sean Penn) and his journey through childhood to his disillusioned adult years as he attempts to “reconcile a complicated relationship with his father.” If it were any other director the film might be as simple as it sounds, but Terrence Malick is the acclaimed director of films like “Badlands” and “Days of Heaven,” so this is sure to be a highly original take on these themes and
Secret Reunion (의형제)
Moss (이끼)
Havoc runs amok on Seoul’s streets and chaos rears its ugly head once again among ordinary, unexpected Seoulites as North Korean secret agent Song Ji-won (Kang Dong-won) engages battle in a shooting rampage with National Intelligence Service agent Lee Han-gyoo (Song Kang-ho). Ji-won was assigned the task of assassinating a traitorous former colleague, but Han-gyoo uncovered the devious plot and sought to apprehend the scheming subjects before their systemic cleansing could commence. Once an undercover agent for Seoul’s northern neighbors, Ji-won is deserted by his fatherly leaders and Han-gyoo released from his bureaucratic duties due to the debacle among innocent bystanders. Under chance circumstances six years later, the two are reunited into a superficial business partnership in order to gain intelligence on the other. The plot may not be original. “A North Korean spy sent from a certain northern adversary to infiltrate South Korean society” has been produced and reproduced dozens of times. However, the movie rocketed up box office charts and pulled in nearly 5.5 million viewers, ranking only behind “The Man From Nowhere (아저씨)” in domestic sales, and fourth among all movies (Avatar and Inception) in Korea. Fortunately, quality cinema can be made nowadays without the sole existence of original thought, through sound execution and excellence in other realms. With good reason, the movie contains a plethora of worthy traits that rightfully attracted viewers and packed theaters to near capacity. First and foremost, the acting was brilliant. Kang Dong-won redeemed himself from his lackluster performance in “Haunters” (초능력자) under the tutelage of the supremely experienced and talented Song Kang-ho, who has stylishly portrayed his talents in almost every credible chapter in Korea’s cinematic history from “Shiri” (쉬리) to “JSA” (공동경비구역 JSA) and numerous appearances in the “Vengeance Trilogy.” Kang-ho’s demeanor and experience portrays his character’s struggles brilliantly throughout the duration. Secondly, being an action film, the vigorous pace and suspenseful scenes are enough to keep spectators straddling the edge of their seats whilst approaching an adrenaline overdose. Finally, the film’s fluidity makes it considerably easy to understand and only beverages, concessions, and a desire to be entertained are required during the movie’s screening.
Another blockbuster hit (domestically fourth, seventh overall) among Korea’s moviegoers presents itself in the form of an admired online comic’s recreation. Removed from Korea’s metropolitan glitterati, this rural thriller focuses on the suspicious events surrounding the town’s spiritual guide’s, Ryoo Mok-hyeong, death. Upon his estranged son Ryoo Hae-gook’s (Park Hae-il) arrival for his father’s interment, a suspicious feeling permeates the country air concerning the religious leader’s passing and subsequent events pertaining to his earthly demise. At the time of the elder’s Ryoo’s passing, his presence is shared with current village foreman Cheon Yong-deok (Jeong Jae-yeong). A man who only experiences sinister, self-sufficing thoughts, he presides over the city by way of totalitarian rule and authoritative means with his three dubious henchmen. Realizing the highly suspect nature of past events, Hae-gook prolongs his countryside retreat, seeking prosecutor Park Min-wook’s (Yoo Joon-sang) advice and counsel. Hae-gook explores the town’s archaic history and formation, unearthing peculiar and uncanny events leading to Yong-deok’s reign. Yong-deok is not flattered by current events and a struggle to uncover buried truths is cast for the major characters to duel. Will cultural fallacies be revealed for all to see, or will they be concealed for future generations? A dense movie saturated with numerous events, subplots, and twists, the movie impressively remains true to its original storyline for the film’s overwhelming three-hour duration. The balance among actors creates a cinematic smoothness and theatric cohesion throughout, producing an entertaining and gripping narrative from beginning to end. The mysterious, climactic, and dramatic measures are welcomingly interrupted with comedic intervals to lighten the mood and tension, which could not possibly be sustained for nearly three hours. Numerous areas of cinematography are fused to create a unified success while not catapulting one certain element to the highest pedestal at another’s expense. If one has the staying power to endure the film’s length, an entertaining and enjoyable example of cinema is in store.
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Sept 29 Abduction Taylor Lautner, Sigourney Weaver
A dense movie saturated with numerous events, subplots, and twists.
Sept 29 Sound Of Noise Bengt Nilsson, Sanna Persson
Oct 6 The Debt Helen Mirren, Sam Worthington
Stone “Stone” might seem like an odd choice to write about this month, seeing as there are other, more potentially interesting films being released in the shape of “Real Steel” and “Senna.” On paper, “Stone” has the potential to be a first-rate film due to a stellar cast led by Robert De Niro and Edward Norton. However, after their previous outing in 2001’s “The Score,” which also starred Marlon Brando, you could be forgiven for thinking this could well be another lackluster outing from both parties. You see, there once was a time when anything with Robert De Niro would have been considered a must see film. But sadly, since the release of Rocky and Bullwinkle, the De Niro stamp of quality has been diminished. He seems to have almost given up, and “Righteous Kill” may have been the last straw for some. The same could be said for Edward Norton. What happened to that rising star of “Primal Fear,” “Fight Club” and “American History X?” Rumors of an inflated ego and refusal to take part in the promotion of “The Incredible Hulk” seem to suggest that he had forgotten about his first priority, which should be actOct 6 Stone Robert De Niro, Edward Norton
will certainly demand a lot more from your average cinemagoer. You see, despite the film’s high praise, its Rotten Tomatoes score is only at 86 percent, and certain bloggers have dared to go against mainstream opinion. Critics, such as Vicky Fabbri from The Electric Fleapit, have spoken out against the majority declaring “I came out thoroughly frustrated – it wasn't a pleasure to watch. But there was something good in there. It was art.” Furthermore, eccentric Director Uwe Boll came out and called the film “a piece of shit” and even its own star Sean Penn has gone on record as stating “…frankly, I'm still trying to figure out what I'm doing there.” Despite the mixed reviews, the fact remains that you don’t necessarily watch arthouse cinema looking to be entertained. You go to be challenged and stimulated, visually or otherwise as film as art adheres to a different set of values to mainstream cinema. One person will see “The Tree of Life” as a masterpiece. Another, pretentious and boring. It’s uncertain as to what the reaction to “The Tree of Life” will be. But the one thing I do know for certain is that I can’t wait to see it.
ing. So needless to say, I went into “Stone” with low expectations. Based on a play by Angus MacLachlan, who also wrote the screenplay, “Stone” follows Jack Mabry (DeNiro), a parole officer whose last case before retirement is that of Gerald "Stone" Creeson (Norton), a convicted arsonist who plots his release from prison by using his lascivious wife, played by Milla Jovovich, against Jack whilst simultaneously appearing to find faith. “Stone” could well have represented another run-ofthe-mill prison drama, but in the hands of a good director and armed with a good script, it really does represent a return to form for both Edward Norton and in particular Robert De Niro. The film is dialogue-heavy, but this allows De Niro and Norton to shine and provide some top performances. The direction from John Curran is solid too. Nothing too flashy, and it allows his actors to do what they do best. His choice of score, beautiful yet sometimes haunting, fits perfectly too. “Stone” might not be for everybody, as its polarized reviews suggest. But if you are fans of De Niro or Norton and have been waiting for a triumphant return to form, then I suggest you look no further than here. Oct 12 Real Steel Hugh Jackman, Evangeline Lilly
oct 12 The Three Musketeers Orlando Bloom, Milla Jovovich
oct 13 Biutiful Javier Bardem, Maricel Alvarez
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10/3/11 12:43:10 AM
GROOVe with seoulvibes
Danny Fry Danny Fry first connected with house music in the early 1990s while living in South America. The sound was classic deep and funky house which laid the foundation for his signature style. Since that time, he has gone on to travel the globe gathering an abundance of experience both on and off the decks which has only served to fuel his passion for music and life. Fry has had the honor of taking on residencies at many prestigious clubs such as Bali’s legendary club “Double Six” and Kuta’s preeminent “Legian 61”. Whilst in Chile he was a resident at “Whiskey Blue” and “Red 21”in Santiago at the W Hotel. He presently finds himself once again amidst the trend setters of the W Seminyak as a featured DJ of Bali’s most luxurious club “Woo Bar”, where he has supported world-class talents in the likes of Dimitri from Paris, Fritz Kalkbrenner, Simon Dunmore, DJ Fudge, Charles Webster, and the list continues to grow. This artist has firmly established himself as one of the premiere tech-house DJs in Bali. His trademark high-energy sets have taken tourists and locals on musical odysseys that traverse through an eclectic blend of groovy deep and funky tech house beats. Having chosen the Island of the Gods as his home he continues to contribute quality music to its ever-evolving scene. He has become a fixture on the island and if he is not surfing its beaches or practicing martial arts in its sands you can be assured that he is either on the dance floor or in the mix conducting some controlled chaos behind the decks. On any continent this DJ needs to be seen and heard.
dannyfry@nitelife-music.com www.myspace.com/djdannyfry soundcloud.com/danny-fry
This is a column dedicated to electronic music in Korea. Our aim is to give Groove Korea readers: interviews and updates on what is happening on the peninsula. Feel free to contact the links below for information on clubs, DJs, or events! www.samurai.fm/seoulvibes | seoulvibes@gmail.com | www.myspace.com/seoulvibes
ASIA
What is your definition of a DJ? Someone who refuses to grow up and get a real job
What has influenced your music the most? My friends and the many places I’ve traveled to and lived at. It’s really cool to get together with other DJ’s in different areas and see what they are doing. Also I’d have to say the Internet and the digitalization of music, it really has changed the way everything works. The amount of music that we are exposed to now and how quickly we can attain it is outrageous.
What advice do you have for expatriates living abroad? Never forget your roots. I think that if you spend a lot of time in a place that’s very different than where you are from, its important to hold on to the good things from your culture, while being open to the new place that you are in. It helps to keep you grounded. Also be respectful to the locals. Learn as much as you can about the culture and language. It will be a part of you forever.
"I think in Asia, the people seem to party more freely."
How would you compare the clubbers in South America to Asia? I think in Asia, the people seem to party more freely. Maybe that’s not right -- South Americans party pretty hard, but I feel like it is more segregated there. Venues are really separated by different social classes. They have the super cheesy upper class, swanky spots, and then the dark underground artsy scene. Asia seems to be a bit more commercial, music-wise. The music has changed a lot in Bali though over the last few years, it’s definitely gotten much better.
What is an ideal night behind the decks for you? A full dance floor of sexy people getting down to some groovy house beats. I have had some great nights at Woo Bar recently. We have an underground club beneath the bar where we play when we have parties and events. It’s really intimate, and keeps me connected with the crowd. I don’t like to play huge venues where the decks are too far from the people. I like to be right there in the thick of it, hot and drenched in it all!
Do you have any recommendations for clubbers coming to Bali? Try a little bit of everything. Be open-minded to everything and everyone there. Hit up the swanky venues in Seminyak and go get down and dirty in Kuta! Then return back to Seminyak for some early morning mischief.
Why is it difficult playing to a transient tourist crowd? It can be difficult only when you get a lot of people that aren’t open minded about music. The kind that even though they are traveling they want to hear the same shit they hear every day at home on the radio. Other than that I think it’s cool to play for different people all the time.
What advice do you have for novice DJs? Don’t rely too much on the new technology early on. Start by playing with vinyl and some Technics 1200’s. Then move on to the new stuff and get creative. It’s important to know a bit of the history of it all even if it seems redundant. Play as much as you can and play whatever you want, don’t worry if it’s cool or not. If it makes you nod your head and tap your foot then that is all that matters. Try experimenting with different styles of music with different BPMs till you find your own groove.
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10/3/11 12:43:15 AM
Community Oct. 2011
What’s the Craic? It’s the Asian Gaelic Games By Rob McGovern
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photos by george hatchell
ith strong Irish communities in Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore, an idea to try and bring together the Irish from all over Asia for an Asian Gaelic Games tournament emerged in the mid-90s. The founding members of the Asian Gaelic Games saw this as an opportunity to get the Irish in Asia together for a weekend of football, and maybe have a few sociable drinks, too.
There are eight trophies up for grabs along with individual all-stars, MVP and club awards. The top teams in the competition will compete for the Derek Brady Cup, the Ladies Cup and the Hurling Cup. The opening ceremony will take place on Oct. 14 with the actual tournament running Oct. 15-16.
Photo by: Romin Lee Johnson & Ross James
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The first Asian Gaelic Games took place in Manila during the summer of 1996. Half a dozen teams arrived from all around the continent to start a tradition that has since thrived. And this year, the tournament comes to Korea for the first time, as Suwon hosts the Fexco Asian Gaelic Games 2011. The aim is what it has always been: to fill the weekend with football and craic. There are eight trophies up for grabs along with individual all-stars, MVP and club awards. The top teams in the competition will compete for the Derek Brady Cup, the Ladies Cup and the Hurling Cup. The opening ceremony will take place on Oct. 14 with the actual tournament running Oct. 15-16. The support of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) in Ireland has been invaluable in keeping the Games growing year on year - as well as dedication and enormous efforts of clubs in the region. After 15 years, the tournament has grown from five teams in 1996 to 54 last year. Gaelic football goes back to at least 1712 when the first reported match took place, but it was mentioned in the Statutes of Galway in 1527. The game in its full form is played by two teams of 15 on a pitch about 137 meters long and 87 meters wide. The goalposts are the same as for rugby, but with a slightly lower crossbar. The aim of the game is to get the ball by hand/fist/foot over the crossbar for one point or under the crossbar and into the net for three points. The Asian
Gaelic Games is a nine-a-side tournament, with matches lasting 14 minutes each. Irish ambassador to Korea, Eamonn McKee, spoke to Groove Korea about how he feels about having the AGG in Korea. “It’s a tremendous opportunity to showcase Ireland and Irish sports,” he said. “But it also shows some of the best qualities of the Irish abroad. We get together to support each other, but also to reach out to the local community and to expatriates. In the Seoul Gaels, for example, you will find not just Irish members, but Koreans and other expats. Of course the main focus is sport, but the social side is very important too.” McKee elaborated on what the sport means to the Irish in general and painted a picture of what spectators and newcomers to Gaelic sports can expect. “We are very proud of our Gaelic sports. Their revival in the 1870s was part of our national struggle to develop our identity and seek political independence, which we did in 1922. But the Gaelic Athletic Association that sponsored the revival did far more than that. It built a volunteer movement based around sports involving every village, town and county in Ireland." He said the sporting tradition and folklore is passed down from one generation to the next. “It boosted the Irish language revival. The local GAA club is also a focus for young boys and girls. It gets them involved in their community and in sports. The GAA is really
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10/3/11 12:43:18 AM
Community Oct. 2011
an integral part of Irish life.” Helen Cooke, the director of the tournament, who has been in Korea for three-anda-half years, praised Ambassador McKee for his role in making the Games possible. “Without him and his staff, the AGG may not have happened at all or indeed would have proven much more difficult to organize. He and his wife Mary have been very kind and supportive to the Seoul Gaels, even hosting a wonderful dinner in their home to help raise awareness of the AGG among the Irish community in Seoul.” Joe Trolan, assistant tournament director and chairman of the Seoul Gaels, thanked Hankuk University of Foreign Studies (Global Campus), Dr. Nam Su Kim and the students of the Division of International Sport and Leisure (ISL) for their efforts in helping make the AGG possible here in Korea. “They have for several months now been working on securing pitches and hotels and helping order items needed for the events success. Certainly, it would have been much harder to
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organize without their help and experience. Dr. Kim was very excited in helping us bring the Games here to Korea and played a major role in securing the fields at the Suwon World Cup stadium. The students have been fantastic in helping and the event will be a great practical application of what I teach them in class. I am extremely proud that the university and ISL have supported this event.” There is expected to be around 700 people at the closing ceremony, which will include a group of children with various intellectual disabilities who will be flag bearers. The kids will travel up from Mokpo as part of a delegation from the Columban order in Korea, a Catholic society of missionary priests who first arrived in Korea in 1933. The order has been chosen as the benefactor of funds raised at the AGG. “We chose the Columban Order in Korea as our tournament charity because of the Irish connection,” said Cooke. “Being a tournament celebrating Ireland's games and cul-
ture and they being Irish sisters and priests, we thought it was fitting to link the two organizations together. Some of the children play a little Gaelic Football, too, so it will be exciting for them to see all the action.” The tournament will test people’s love for the sport as all the players have to pay their own way, including flights and hotels. These costs aside, the tournament is still going to cost around $100,000 to put on. Various companies have lent financial support and, unsurprisingly, the main sponsor is an Irish company, Fexco Ireland. Korean companies have also got involved, however, with Korean Air and Hyundai putting their hands in their pockets to help make it happen. “Hopefully Korea is waking up to the fact that we are moving away from being a transient predominantly young, single population to a permanent organized community who are doing exciting and large-scale events and projects which will not only benefit the English-speaking community but also their Korean counterparts and is highlighting
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10/3/11 12:43:19 AM
Community Oct. 2011
ADVERTORIAL
Korea's First Sports Chiropractic Therapeutic Machine by Dr. Phil Yoo When an athlete, weekend warrior, or even casual walker strains their back, the first thought that comes to mind is to see a spine specialist or chiropractic doctor. So it is now mainstream to go to the chiropractor to get your back “adjusted” in order to alleviate pressure on nerves, joints, and muscles, which a misaligned spine can cause. Although restoring ones normal range of motion in the joints is important, too much mobility can make the spine hypermobile, thus increasing the chance for injury to the back. This is why it is important to find a good sports certified doctor who is skilled enough to determine if an injured athlete needs to be mobilized or stabilized.
In the event that a joint is stuck or not moving properly, it will need to be adjusted. In the opposite case where the joint is hypermobile, causing the spine and its surrounding muscles to be too lax and thus susceptible to injury, than that patient’s low back muscles and core will have to be strengthened. “Core” training is another buzz word that is often misapplied. For example, one popular method to strengthen one’s core is to do pilates, or similar exercises that teach abdominal bracing and hollowing while lying on a mat, ball, or machine. These exercises definitely are beneficial to one’s core, but research has shown not very functional. A functional exercise is one that supports and facilitates a movement that we use in every-day activities such as walking, lifting your laundry basket, or picking up a pencil off the floor. These are all activities that are performed while standing, so doing exercises for the core on the floor or without resistance during standing will not be a good functional exercise for these upright activities, unless you lie on the floor all day.
Korea in a positive and dynamic way,” said Cooke. Ambassador McKee will be in attendance with some fairly prestigious names. “I will indeed (be attending),” said McKee. "Our deputy prime minister and minister for foreign affairs, Eamon Gilmore, will be opening the Games. I was at the Hong Kong Games last year, so I know how seriously the competitors and their supporters treat the Games. It’s a great event for all to see.” There will also be exhibition matches of hurling, and for the first time in AGG history, there will be a challenge camogie match, a variant of hurling for women, where women from all over Asia who can play will mix and divide into two teams. For more information visit www.2011asiangaelicgames.com.
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On the same note, doing exercises such as bench presses or barbell curls are not functional exercises and are artificial movements. You are better off doing exercises like squats and deadlifts, as these movements mimic getting off the toilet seat, picking up a small child or lifting a heavy box. There are, of course, exceptions to the above. If one is suffering from back pain after performing any of these daily activities, than those same activities can aggravate the condition, and you will develop what’s called a movement disorder of the spine. This occurs when the body develops a false movement pattern in order to avoid pain and avoid further damaging one’s spinal joints. Thus you can develop a slumped posture, a short leg, or even scoliosis. Despite these compensatory mechanisms, one’s back pain is rarely resolved and the back pain will become chronic, or at least come off and on throughout one’s life.
So the challenge here is to be able to strengthen your functional core while being in an upright position, but also be able to apply enough force without aggravating the painful joints and muscles of the spine. This is where the patented technology of the Active Therapeutic Motion (ATM) device comes into play. The ATM facilitates core stability, which is the mechanism within the body that prevents adjoining bones from moving out of bounds. Thus for true core stability to be achieved, the rehab exercises must be done in the exact position and direction in which the patient has a problem (upright and weight-bearing),
The ATM facilitates core stability, which is the mechanism within the body that prevents adjoining bones from moving out of bounds. and the Central Nervous System must learn to fir the muscles correctly, thus restoring normal movement patterns.
For example: A professional collegiate volleyball player in our L.A. sports clinic came to us with severe back pain. This is a guy who had a solid build and was on a consistent and intense core workout program.
Theoretically, he should have been able to compete at volleyball without back pain if the so called traditional core training worked. After seeing other specialists with poor results, he finally came to see us and after three rehabilitation sessions on our ATM, his pain free range of motion was restored to normal, and he was cleared to practice for his fall season.
For those of you who are struggling with frequent back pain but have not found a long term solution, Dr. Phil invites you to come on in for a complementary evaluation at either of his Seoul, or Los Angeles Area Chiropractic Sports Clinics. Visit: www.createwellnesscenter.com or call (02) 798-1446 for more information. In the U.S., call 1 (800)-PAIN-FREE to reach his L.A. facility. Dr. Phil Yoo is an Internationally Certified Sports Chiropractic Physician.
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10/3/11 12:43:21 AM
Players are busy gearing up for a couple of big disc golf dates. The Korea National Championship will be held Oct. 22-23 in Chuncheon at Chung-do Island Resort. On Nov. 18-20.
Community Oct. 2011
Disc Rolling in the Right Direction
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article & Photos By Eric Davies
EONJU, North Jeolla Province — What has long been a popular sport in the United States, Canada, Japan and many other countries, disc golf is starting to catch on in here due in large part to the efforts of Koreans and expats. Courses are being developed, tournaments planned, monthly outings organized and disc golf clubs have been popping up across the country.
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What is disc golf? Think golf, throw away the balls and heavy clubs, then pick up a Frisbee disc or two. Start at a tee box, aim your disc towards a metal basket designed to catch the disc and count up your throws. The lowest score wins. “A friend introduced me (to disc golf) in 1994,” said Chaz Burton, Korean Professional Disc Golf Association’s (KPDGA) director of communications. “When I saw a guy with a disc throw it almost 400 feet, I was blown away and hooked for life.”
Chaz Burton, from the US, plays disc golf in Seoul.
When Burton moved to Jingyo, South Gyeongsang Province, almost two years ago, he aimed to spread the word about disc golf. He achieved that with the help of Kim Song-bae, KPDGA chairman, and Kang Jun-koo, chairman of the Korea Union of Sport for All. Kim first played disc golf in Los Angeles in early 2007. After watching a tournament at La Mirada Park, he bought a disc and quickly became an avid player, later introducing Kang to the sport. “In August 2007, I first met disc golf in Ja-
pan with Kim Sung-bae. Then he asked me to play disc golf with him and to popularize it in Korea. So we played regularly, and learned it from Japan and the U.S. Whenever I played, it gave me uncountable fun and pleasure,” Kang said. To build this sport in Korea to where they want it to be, these three people, as well as many others, still have a long way to go. At present there are no permanent courses in the country, but one is currently being constructed on Jeju Island, and proposals for a course in both Chuncheon, Gangwon Province, and Eumseong, North Chungcheong Province, have been made. There are temporary courses in Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Jeonju and Jingyo. Active clubs are playing weekly in Seoul, Busan and Jeonju, with a few avid players looking for others to join them in the other cities. Players are busy gearing up for a couple of big disc golf dates. The Korea National Championship will be held Oct. 22-23 in Chuncheon at Chung-do Island Resort. On Nov. 18-20, Jack Quin and the KPDGA will host the Korea Open at the Jeju Winds Public Disc Golf Course. These tournaments, as well as monthly outings in different cities, will attract discers from all over Korea and abroad. “It is inevitable that the sport will explode in the next few years just look at the growth of the sport in the U.S., Japan, Europe,” said Burton. Kim hopes to “make disc golf a great sport in Korea, much more popular than in Japan.” For more information on courses, events, where to buy, contact Chaz Burton (chazburton@hotmail.com), Kim Song-bae (sb918kim20@hotmail. com), or visit the KPDGA page on Facebook.
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10/3/11 12:43:23 AM
Community Oct. 2011
Warriors Out For Revenge
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By Dan McDuffie | photos by dylan goldby
he Seoul Warriors, a mostly-expat American football team, are looking to avenge a disappointing finish to the 2010 season, their first in the league.
The team opened the 2011 campaign on Sept. 25 against defending champion Daegu Pheonix. They take on the Seoul Vikings on Oct. 2 (Yongsan, 2 p.m. kickoff), the Seoul Dominos Pizza on Oct. 16 (Yongsan, 2 p.m. kickoff). In November, they play the Busan Gryphons on the 6th in Daegu. The Warriors were conceived during a late night conversation over soju in the winter of 2010. Founders Jason Braedon (head coach), Ian MacLeod (defensive coordinator), and Lawrence Bowlby (special teams coordinator) had previously played for the 64 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| october 2011
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KNFL's Seoul Vikings. "We were frustrated with the management of that team, and thought we could do it better," said Bowlby. What began as a group of 10-12 guys meeting at a park down by the river, has grown into a team of 50 Warriors, practicing and battling at the Seoul American Highschool Football field on the Yongsan army base. The Warriors struggled in the first game of their inaugural season last year, and the Vikings had the first laugh, winning 24-14. Creating a team from scratch came with many challenges. "There’s always a lot of new talent coming in on a constant basis,” said MacLeod. “With a sport like football, there’s a lot of preparation that needs to take place. Getting guys caught up in the schemes that we run, and prepared to play at game-time speed. “You know, there’s a big difference be-
tween practice speed and game speed. There’s also a lot of guys who haven’t played in a long time, different ages, different fitness levels and basically just trying to get everyone on the same page.” The Warriors are required by KNFL regulations to have three Korean players on the field at all times. “We've got some new guys out, and our fellas from last year have experience under their belt. Our nose tackle, Gun, is going to be a force," said Bowlby. The KNFL championship is set for Dec. 4 at Yongsan. As far as expectations go for this season, "anything other than winning every game and a KNFL championship will be a disappointment," said MacLeod. The Warriors are also planning a game in Manila with a Filipino team in October, which they hope will become an annual home and home fall/spring series. october 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 65
10/3/11 12:43:26 AM
Community Oct. 2011
Bras for a Cause:
Breast Cancer Awareness Month
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By Rob McGovern
bigail and Nomi Flores, sisters from Southern California, are trying to do their part to combat breast cancer. They have organized “Bras for A Cause,” a charity event to raise money for the Korea Breast Cancer Foundation, a cause they have been involved with for the last three years through their women’s group, Seoul PMS H3, a Hash House Harriers chapter.
“Bras for a Cause” will take place on Saturday, Oct. 22, from 10 p.m.-1 a.m. at Dillinger’s Bar in Itaewon. The truth is, unless you have been directly affected by breast cancer, or cancer in general, most will probably be unaware of how breast cancer affects a sufferer or friends and family. You will probably be unaware of the good work that goes on all over the world to combat this frightening disease. But hopefully through the efforts of everyone who participates in Breast Cancer Awareness Month (BCAM) this October, that might change. Incidences of breast cancer have increased 84 percent since records started being kept in the U.K. in 1971, according to Breast Cancer U.K. Since 1993, the average age of women diagnosed with breast cancer has been 50-54. Between 1996 and 2001, breast cancer went from affecting one in 12 women to targeting one in nine. Regardless of race/ethnicity, all women are at risk of developing breast cancer and it is the most common cancer among women worldwide. Nearly one in four women with cancer in the world have breast cancer, and half of them live in developed countries. It is the second leading cause of death from cancer for women after lung cancer. Sobering reading, but then it is a sobering subject. But fighting breast cancer can be fun. And that is what Abigail and Nomi are counting on. “To kick off breast cancer awareness month, we will be selling pink bracelets and chocolate boobie shaped lollypops during the month of October,” Abigail said. “At the same time, we will be promoting the Bras for a Cause event. At this event, there will be a small cover charge. There will be a DJ and other performers who are donating their talents in support of breast cancer awareness. “Our main attraction will be a Bra Auction where both female and male models will showcase the bras. They are individually handmade bras that were created and donated by people in and outside Korea to help raise money for the KBCF. The bras will be available for sale throughout the night.” Bras for a Cause will take place at Dillinger’s Bar, which is on the 3rd floor. There is a 5,000 won entrance fee, which includes a pink ribbon pin donated by the Korea Breast Cancer Foundation. There will be also be belly dancing from groups Navah and Mahadev, and of curse, the auction itself.
Korea Against Poverty: Dare to Care
T
By Colin Owen Griffin, Stefan Lotz
here are people in every corner of the globe suffering from the crippling effects of poverty; people who do not have any food to eat, a home to live in or clean water to drink. They may simply not have access to those necessities we sometimes take for granted. If you “Dare to Care” about those in need, Korea Against Poverty (KAP) can help you reach out in an easy and enjoyable way. KAP is not your average charity organization that comes begging for a dollar or two. They come with spirit, creativity, art and passion to persuade, inspire and motivate people to open their hearts. KAP is a charity drive launched by Stefan Lotz and Colin Owen Griffin, along with a collective of concerned artists, musicians, writers, performers and humanists. This dynamic group of people is mobilizing its talents and resources to take action against the scourge of poverty. It draws cross-culturally from the foreign and Korean communities here in Seoul. KAP’s launch effort will be a benefit show with the proceeds going to help in the fight against poverty in Africa. A multimedia event will be staged Oct. 15 at Platoon Kunsthalle, featuring an impressive line-up of Korean and expat bands with artists making art live on stage. Some of the bands are Seoul’s own Hit the Nine, On Sparrow Hill, Blue Biscuit Blues Band and Magna Fall. There will be a rooftop stage, weather permitting, with acoustic music performed by the likes of Nonolina, Dirty 30’s, Ben Akers, Josh Shell and more. For 15,000 won, you can enjoy a show, dig into Platoon's amazing selection of food and drink, check out and purchase original works of art and most importantly, help KAP smash poverty. To learn more about KAP and their events, check out Stand Up Dare to Care on Facebook, or at their website at www.kapcollective.org.
The KBCF’s website is only available in Korean, but a wealth of information can be found at www.worldwidebreastcancer.com. The event can be found on Facebook, where it is called Bras for a Cause: Seoul.
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Teams
Listings
Seoul Saturday Soccer League - Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts to call you for more information. Ice Hockey - Interested in playing with experienced and competitive ice hockey players? Join Korea’s original ex-pat hockey team, the Geckos Glaciers Sunday nights at 8pmin Anyang. Contact Charles at charfull@yahoo.com
The American Women's Club (AWC) now meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the first Tuesday of each month. www.awckorea.org. The Australia & New Zealand Assocation (ANZA) meets at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at 9:30AM on the third Tues of the month. For more information, please visit www.anzakorea. com or events@anzakorea.com The British Association of Seoul (BASS) meets at the Seoul Club from 10 AM to Noon on the fourth Tues of the month. For more information, please contact basseoul@yahoo.co.uk
International Taekwondo club - looking for new members interested in taekwondo and cultural exchange on Sat& Sun 4:30PM ~ 8:30 PM near Konkuk Univ. Email to tm3ym@ hotmail.com or visit to http://cafe.daum.net/arirangtaekwon
The Canadian Women’s Club (CWC) meets the second Tues of the month & also participate in a group activity the fourth Wed of the month. For more information, contact sujaybee@ yahoo.com
Korea Ultimate Players Association – If you have been searching for some hot disc action in Korea, come out to play ultimate every Sun with the Korea Ultimate Players Association. Please visit www.koreaultimate.net
The Korea Lacrosse Association would like to involve more non-Koreans, with or without lacrosse experience, to participate in the growing tournaments and leagues. Please contact by emaiil parkpc@lacrosse.or.kr or 02-743-5291 Football Club - Gecko's FC is looking for players, preferably with experience, for the start of the new season.We practice regularly, play games on Sundays and take road trips once or twice a season. Please contact geckosfc@yahoo.com Crystal Palace Football/Soccer Team – We are recruiting players of all abilities to join our games played in central Seoul. Please contact Alex at harryhowlett@hotmail.com or 010 3040 6114 Seoul Survivors RFC - Seoul Survivors has been around for over 20 years. We practice regularly and play a variety of different teams in friendlies, competitions and on tours. For more information, please contact Ian at koreanianr@yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282 The Seoul Sunday Football League, a competitive amateur expat league, is looking for referees to officiate matches in Seoul and surrounding areas on Sundays. No official qualifications are necessary, but you should have a good knowledge of the game. Pay is 70,000 won per game. Also, if you are interested in playing, then we can also find you a team. Please contact: seoulfootball@hotmail.com Seoul Sisters Women’s Rugby Club: Looking for new members, both Korean and foreign, to grow the in-house league. No experience is necessary and there are great coaches to get you up to speed quickly. contact seoulsistersrugby@yahoo. com or check out www.ssrfccom Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club: Playing games in both Seoul and Goyang, we are a football team always looking for new members. Please contact lokogoyang@yahoo.co.uk or check www.lokomotiv-goyang.com
Clubs One Circle Community Meditation: Stressful week? Attend an OCC meditation session to reduce stress, release muscle tension, and ask questions to one of our instructors. Your body and mind deserve Tarot Card Reading: We have a Tarot Day 4pm~9pm every Thursday at Life cafe near Kyungridan(Itaewon 2dong). Please contact Ciel at luzysal76@hotmail.com / 010-3299-6147 LSBER Club: Let's Share Bad Experiences in Relationships. We will meet every Tuesday evening at Life cafe. Let's share experiences, learn lessons together and enjoy next relationship! Please contact life_cafe@naver.com / 070-8161-7638 Free Bellydance Classes in English in Itaewon nights and weekends. Over 20 classes a week. Learn an art, awaken your body, make friends, eliminate stress, pamper yourself! http://eshebellydancer.com Bellydance Classes in Seoul Tues nights & Thurs mornings. Belly dance is an energizing, low-impact exercise suitable for men & women of all ages. Reduce stress, improve balance & posture, strengthen & tone muscles, develop grace, reduce weight, and increase self-confidence! bellydancekorea@ hotmail.com Korea Latin & Salsa Korea Latin and Salsa welcomes new members of all ages and experience levels for parties, salsa lessons in English and Spanish, trips, friends, and fun. Please visit our website KoreaLatinAndSalsa.com Seoul Artists Network (SAN) have a bi-monthly open mic that takes place at Woodstock in Itaewon on the first and third 68 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| october 2011
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International Clubs
Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) – This non-profit organization offers lectures about Korea’s history and culture, while also offering tours to various locations around the country. Please contact raskb@kornet.net or visit www.raskb.com
Touch Rugby - contact seoultouch@gmail.com and more information can be found at touchtagrugby.blogspot.com
Club Italia hosts a lunch every Sun at 1 PM at the Franciscan School in Hannam-dong. The lunch costs KRW 15,000 and everyone is welcome. For more information, please visit www. clubitalia.or.kr
Kimchi Confessions sundays of each month. www.purevolume.com/jeremytoombs | www.myspace.com/jeremytoombs Writing Club - Looking to form/join a writing group. Meetings would likely be on the weekends, twice a month. My focus is on short fiction/prose at the moment, but I would be open to non-fiction/longer works as well. email Bryan at scriptingends@ gmail.com Lodge Han Yang #1048 the oldest Masonic lodge in Korea welcomes all visiting and returning brethren to attend our regularly scheduled meeting every second and fourth Wednesday. Contact lodgehanyang@hotmail.com for additional information Seoul Fencing Club — Seoul Grand Park in Ichon-dong. Please go to www.seoulfencing.com or email seoul.fencing.club@ gmail.com. The Seoul Book Club, a new book club. We plan to meet once a month read and various works in English and then share and discuss our impressions, all are welcome. Please contact Sean at 010-3648-2861 or stm@iis.or.kr KH Toastmasters is a fun, supportive environment to learn public speaking and leadership skills in English. Our group is a dynamic mix of foreigners and Koreans, and we meet 8pm every Tuesday in Hyehwa. Guests always welcome. A map of our meeting location can be found at: khtoastmasters.com Southside Hash House Harriers: Do you like to walk, run and drink beer? Well then, come and join the Seoul branch of this world-wide club that meets in a different location south of the Han River each Sunday at 11:00am. All levels of fitness are welcome, just bring along your sneakers and a sense of humor! Please contact Countess at smcrae77@yahoo.com Section 8 Gaming: we meet Sundays in the Seoul area to play a variety of pen and paper role playing games, including Dungeons and Dragons. Contact section8gaming@gmail.com. Toastmasters International, every Thursday Night, near GyeongBuk Palace Subway station, for more information visit the following websites: www.toastmasters.org www. seoultmclub.net or Contact us at: profirving2001@yahoo.com Texas Hold Em in Ilsan - Weekly Hold Em throw down at cool bar in La Festa, Ilsan Tues & Thurs around 10pm & Sundays 7pm. Contact mrleon29@gmail.com I'm all-in. May the flop be with you! Interested in Theatre? Seoul Players is an all-volunteer community theatre group which does two English language shows a year. For more info, please email seoulplayers@gmail.com Interested in Surfing? There are trips throughout the winter to discover Korea’s secret spots and great waves. Please contact Nathan or Jack at Seoulboardriders@hotmail.com Bazzer’s Buddies Dog Walking Club Namsan, Han River and other outdoor areas around Seoul. A fun way to get out on a Sunday afternoon and meet new friends. Send an email to www.bazzerdog.com to find out when and where we will meet. The Original Seoul Toastmasters Club - Are you interested in joining a club of professionals working to develop communication and leadership skills? Meet new friends, both Korean and foreign, at the original Seoul Toastmasters Club. Please contact Joohun Park at jhpamc@hanmail.net and 011 9279 8299 or visit www.seoultmclub.net Seoul PMS H3 – This is a running club for women that is also part of the Hash House Harriers. We meet one Saturday afternoon a month and are looking for other women who like
to run, walk, drink and/or socialize. Contact msthanx4nothin@ gmail.com or visit www.myspace.com/seoul_pms_h3 Karaoke Club - Join a karaoke club in Seoul with people who love to sing, whether you sound like Frank Sinatra or Frankenstein! We meet once a month. Please contact seoulsing@ gmail.com Are you a vegetarian or vegan in Korea? The Seoul Veggie Club meets twice a month to check out veggiefriendly restaurants and enjoy picnics. Koreans, foreigners, vegetarians and non-vegetarians are all welcome. "Facebook group Seoul veggie club" MEETinSEOUL – Come hang out with a large free, all-volunteer social group. There are no membership fees, just pay for your own cost of the events (movies, dinners etc). www. meetin.org/city/MEETinSEOUL/ Yongsan Kimchi Hash House Harriers - If you enjoy running, walking and trekking throughout Seoul as well as drinking beer, then come join us every Saturday at 10 a.m. For more information, please visit www.freewebs.com/ykhhh (then go to "hareline") or malgosia02@yahoo.com Hiking Club – The International Hikers Club meets every Sat. For more information, please contact sihclub@gmail.com Mostly Over 40 – This club meets for lunch on Sunday a month and, as the name depicts, consists of people who are mostly over 40. For more information, contact mostlyover40@ yahoogroups.com CWG, ‘Conversations with God,’ discussion and study group is open for anyone who is interested in talking about the themes and implications of this book. Contact markyansen@ yahoo.com or 011 9990 4291 Artists – We are interested in starting an artists’ collective in Seoul. Are you a visual artist interested in taking part in a group exhibition? Contact seoulcreative@yahoo.comForeigner/Korean Friendship Club: Our purpose is to meet at a bar on Saturdays to meet new people, introduce new cultures, share thoughts and have fun. Contact yupggiklub@hotmail.com or check out seoulcircle.com Fusion Art: Seeking members involved in various arts (painting, drawing, illustration, sculpture, photos and more) for regular meetings and exhibitions to share information about colors and opinions. Please contact bakerycorner@yahoo.co.kr, chubbyhubby@hanmail.net or 010-6423-6037 Korean Movie Club: With English subtitles, people are now able to enjoy and understand recent Korean (and some non-Korean) movies and dramas in front of a 120-inch screen. The club is located just a minute from Sinchon Station. Please contact koreanmovieclub@yahoo.com or www.geocities.com/ koreanmovieclub Seoul Stitch ‘n Bitch: This club has a crafting get-together the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month in Haebangchon, Seoul, Please contact seoulsnb@gmail.com or check www.seoulsnb. blogspot.com Sinchon Toastmasters Club: Looking for new members, both Korean & foreign, wanting to improve their public speaking and leadership skills in an atmosphere where members can also have fun interacting together. Please contact Dong Wan at: intervie@naver.com Suwon Scuba Club: A dive club close to Osan Air Base and Camp Humphreys, we teach all Padi courses and run regular tours
October 2011
for fun dives to the East Sea. Along with dives, the club has a major social element with outstanding BBQ's and parties on each tour. Please contact Nic at: nichofberg@yahoo.com, 010 3123 2061 or www.suwonscuba.com
Investor & Real Estate Club Meetings - Every Monday @ Watts On Tap. Discussions on international dating, relationships, investments. Discuss investments with ROI higher than KOSPI average. Anyone with valuable or critical comments wins cash & prizes! Contact 010-5552-5568
St Pats FC - seoulstpats@gmail.com Gaelic Club - If you are looking for a physical and competitive sport, while also wanting some craic while you are at it, then check out Irish football, aka Gaelic. It is a mixture of soccer, basketball and rugby. Male and female teams meet frequently for training, games and social events.www.seoulgaels. com
Disc-Golf in Seoul - Looking for something different to do and want to be more active in Korea? We are always looking for new people to play disc-golf every Saturday. contact discgolf@ naver.com
info@groovekorea.com
I
Handball - Team Handball - Olympic Handball - We often organize friendly games against Korean teams during evenings or weekends. Male or female players, beginners, intermediate or advanced players... everybody is welcome! Just email SEB at handballinkorea@gmail.com or visit www. handballinkorea.org
Horoscope
email:
Career Women in Korea (CWIK) at the New Seoul Hotel on the third Wed evening of the month. For more information, please visit www.cwik21.com or contact career_women_in_ korea@yahoo.com. The Seoul Intl. Women’s Association (SIWA) meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the third Wed of the month. For more information, please visit www. siwapage.com Overseas Chinese Women’s Club (OCWC) meets monthly and is open to all women who would like to make new friends, enjoy good food and learn about Chinese culture. Chinese is spoken, but interpretation is available. For more information, please visit our website at ocwckr.spaces.live.com or contact ocwckr@hotmail.com
Announcements NEW — Monthly Singles Party - New MEETUP group “Seoul International Singles” welcomes singles of any nationality who want to socialize with other singles living in/near Seoul. Monthly meetings in the Hongdae area. Great fun; Come join us! (http://www.meetup.com/Seoul-International-Singles/). NEW — English Al-Anon Meeting in Seoul - for friends and family of alcoholics- Meets Sundays at 7:30 in the International Lutheran Church. Hangangjin Station, Line 6. For directions, go to: http://www.aainkorea.org/4meetings/4.1seoul. html One Circle Community Events (Saturday, Sept. 24): We're excited to announce September's guest speaker, Daniel Gray. Daniel has taken the success of his blog (www.seouleats. com) and turned it into a successful business. These days his company, O'ngo Food Communications, is offering Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours to travelers to Seoul. For more information visit www.onecirclecommunity.org or call 010-74004038 ARNIS/KALI: Q: What should a Korean fan of Filipino martial arts who can’t find many like-minded Koreans do? A: Take up English and work with expats. Free 90-minute session weekly between Seoul Station & Sookmyung Station. E-mail ranger1231@gmail.com Navah Bellydance Company - Looking for performers with dance experience or who are willing to train with Eshe for events in and out of Seoul. eshebellydancer@hotmail.com The Ang Dating Daan Korea Chapter conducts free Bible Study and distributes DVDs of Bible Expositions of the only sensible preacher in our time — Brother Eli Soriano. If you want free copies of Bible Expositions and hear free Bible Study, please call 010-5737-2561 / 010-3004-0817 Amnesty G48 is an official group of Amnesty International Korea. This group is made up of both Korean and foreign volunteers who actively take part in the movement to promote and protect human rights for all people around the world. E-mail Tom for further details @ amnestyseoul@gmail.com. All Native English Speakers, Kyopos, and Koreans. Proficient in English are welcome to join our weekly bible study/fellowship meetup held every saturday at 3 pm. We seek to delve deeply into scripture. Contact Info. 011-359-1317 Bible Study Enthusiasts - Weekly Bible study for Native English Speakers. We are having a weekly Bible Study every Saturday, at 7:30 PM. Everyone is welcome! Call me at 011-3591317 or email homechurch-314@meetup.com or homechurch. meetup.com/314/ for further information. Seoul Global Center - Seoul Help Center for foreigners has been renamed and relocated to the Korea Press Foundation Building floor.
Aries Others tend to look for a commitment from you this month, dear Aries. Whether you solidify a partnership or decide that a relationship is not living up to its potential, relationships are serious in October! Your mood, however, is romantic but playful. The Full Moon on the 11th can bring a long-standing problem to light. Career and finances are strong in October. It's a time for proving your worth, displaying your innate leadership abilities, and making important decisions. Be as aboveboard and professional as you can — others are taking note! Late October is favorable for taking out loans or refinancing, if necessary.
Taurus Work commitments may be hefty this month, dear Taurus, and you should watch for taking on more than your share. Frustration can come to a head around the 11th. October is one of the strongest months for you in 2011 for relationships, particularly towards the end of the month. You are taking the lead, taking action, and romantic interests are never short in supply. All signs point to you moving forward. Family life is animated and perhaps restless at times. Recently, you have been getting rid of the non-essential things in your life, and you could find that your attitude towards moving forward has improved as you rid yourself of excess baggage - the literal has led to the figurative.
Gemini Purely superficial elements of partnering are no longer tolerated, and a relationship can deepen, perhaps due to resolution of a longstanding problem, in October, dear Gemini. Getting serious about a romance or a creative project can figure strongly. Some of you may enter a business partnership. This is a favorable time for turning a creative undertaking into a profitable hobby. Job opportunities can emerge towards the end of the month. More determination and motivation will aid any new fitness or nutrition program started now. Watch for hurried speech and impulsiveness all month.
Cancer Issues surrounding family and career capture much of your attention this month, dear Cancer. A job offer may be hard to refuse around the 11th or a career matter reaches a head. Opportunities to strengthen a partnership this month are especially strong. Some of you may take a friendship into unexplored romantic territory, or meet a significant person through a friend or group association. You are also more focused and ambitious when it comes to your work, health, fitness, and self-care programs in October. You feel inspired and motivated to take better care of yourself.
Leo Demonstrating the perfect balance of selfassertion and cooperation is your challenge this month, dear Leo. You can be impatient at times. A travel or education matter culminates around the 11th. An unexpected opportunity for travel may present itself, or new opportunities to further your education could arise. The people that you meet tend to stir you into new ways of thinking. You can take an idea to the bank this month, or a project can come to a satisfying conclusion. Decisions need to be made, but stressing over them won't help. Love can be found very close to home, perhaps even in the neighborhood.
Virgo You've been worrying about money much of the year, dear Virgo, and now is an excellent time to take charge of your finances. Yes, you need to buckle down, but it feels good to do so as you get your priorities straight. Romantic opportunities might come from people of an entirely different background or culture, or possibly through education and travel, in October. Relationships with siblings and
neighbors improve and are a source of happiness. Many of you are enjoying more success in your studies. Nevertheless, energy levels are low or they fluctuate. Get extra rest to prepare for an especially busy Fall.
Libra You are accustomed to making everyone else in your life happy, dear Libra, but this month you can tend to your own needs without guilt. It's a time for pushing your own personal projects and interests ahead. Surprises are in store in a close relationship around the Full Moon on the 11th. Clashes in values or conflicts over money with a friend can be irksome around the 26th, but money matters improve overall in the last week of October. It's a strong time to make an investment or to clear some debt.
Scorpio Conversations open up this month, dear Scorpio, and you stand to either make a new connection that lasts in the long term, or to enhance the bond of an existing one. Nevertheless, you can be rather withdrawn until mid-month as you prepare for a new astrological year and build up your energy reserves. Career matters are fast-paced, stimulating, and sometimes rocky this month, as bosses can be demanding. You may need to watch what you say around the 26-27th. Personal charisma runs high, however, and love matters are strong.
Sagitarius While the desire to be with friends is strong this month, be careful that you don't overcommit in the process, dear Sagittarius, as you're likely to feel the weight of your obligations if you do. Be helpful and involved, but avoid the tendency to forget your own needs in the process. Increased clarity about a love affair or creative matter comes around the 11th, when a new relationship may begin for some of you. Recognition and possibly increased remuneration for your work is very possible in the last week of October. It's a time to shine your light. Be humble, but don't hide your abilities.
Capricorn October is a strong month for creative pursuits and love matters, dear Capricorn. Your ambition is heightened this month, but you also enjoy contributing to a team or group effort, where you can shine right now. Your support is rewarded, as others can come to your aid or inform you of an opportunity for personal advancement in the last week of the month. With your strong involvement with friends, associates, and career, you will need to find a balance when it comes to attention to family, who will remind you of this around the 11th.
Aquarius Developments in your career are favorable this month, dear Aquarius. You experience more motivation to realize your business goals and to improve your income from business. You could form alliances that further your professional goals or you might make friends through professional interests and contacts. While it's a generally good time for education, you might feel somewhat bogged down with responsibilities, so be careful not to take on more than you can handle. Partners can be demanding or cranky this month. Resolve to manage problems as they come up.
Pisces Financial matters need careful handling this month, dear Pisces, and you have all of the necessary tools at your disposal to make important changes to your spending and borrowing habits. Work can be demanding but also motivating in October. Conflicts with co-workers may arise, but if you tame impatience and attempt to work independently at your own pace, their likelihood decreases. Opportunities to break out of your normal routine abound and excite later in the month. It's also a time to shine on the level of communications. You can be recognized for your ability to express yourself. october 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 69
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Medical & Health Info Pediatrics Serim Pediatrics 02-544-0234 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3. Apgujung stn. Exit 4 Seran Family Medicine Clinic 02-2642-5975 Mok-dong, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul Subway line #5. Omokgyo stn. Exit 2.
Cardiology / Heart Specialist Dr.Simon Lee Heart Clinic 02-543-0072 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ophthalmologist BS Eye Center 02-519-8013 Gangnam Station, Seoul Gangnam stn. Exit 5 Seer & Partner Eye Institute 02-511-0567 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dream Eye Center Myeong-dong Center 02-779-7888 Gangnam stn. Center 02-554-8400 Obstetrics Cheil Women’s Healthcare Center 02-2000-7119 (Emergency Room) 02-2000-7062 Mukjeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul CHA hospital 02-3468-3000 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Miz Medi Hospital 02-3467-3741 Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dermatologists TengTeng Skin Clinic 02-337-4066 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Sinsa stn. Exit 2 Hushu Skin Clinic 02-519-8013 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Apgujung stn. Exit 3 Nova Skin Clinic 02-563-7977 70 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| october 2011
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Gangnam Stn. Subway line #2, Gangnam stn. Exit 8 Dentists Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic Hongdae Clinic 02-3141-0028 Sinsa-dong Clinic 02-3141-0028 SMart Dental Clinic 02-517-6278 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line#3, Apgujung stn. Exit 4 UpennIvy Dental Clinic 02-797-7784 Ichon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Hushu Dental Clinic 02-519-8013 Chiropractors Create Wellness Center 02-798-1446 Itaewon, Seoul SKY Wellness Center 02-749-4849 Itaewon, Seoul
Oriental Medicine Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine 02-3218-2167 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul INI Oriental Medicine 02-824-0075 Sangdo-dong, Dongjak-gu, Seoul Subway line #7, Soongsil Univ. stn. Exit 3 massage Healing Hands 010-3158-5572 / 02-20718090 Itaewon, Seoul Ophthalmologist Samsung Medical Center 02-3410-0200 / 02-34100226 Emergency 02-3410-2060 Ilwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yonsei University Severance Hospital 02-2228-5800 / 010-99480983 Yonsei Univ., Seoul Asan Medical Center 02-3010-5001 Poongnap-dong, Songpa-gu
Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for
Foreigners in Korea
Submit your banking questions to: farnsworth@shinhan.com
Dear Michelle, How can I send money overseas from my bank account in Korea? — Money Sender Dear Money Sender, There are many ways to send money overseas from Korea. No matter which method you choose though, you will first need to designate just one bank as your “Primary Foreign Exchange Transaction Bank”. To do this, you must visit the bank in person with your passport (and Alien Registration Card if you have one) and then do all foreign exchange transactions from that bank (any branch of that bank). You can easily change your designated bank by visiting the new bank you would like to use anytime. Remember, each person can send $50,000 USD (or equivalent) overseas per year (one year starts in January and ends in December). If you would like to send more, you will just need to show proof of the source of the funds. You can use any combination of the following methods to get your money out of Korea (although some details may vary by bank). But once you reach your $50,000 USD limit, you will have to visit a bank branch in person to send more money overseas. For each of these transactions, be sure to bring your passport (and Alien Registration Card if you have one): 1.
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In person at a bank branch: Be sure that you know the beneficiary’s account number and their bank’s routing number. Also, ask your teller to give you a preferential exchange rate. It never hurts to ask! Online: You must first register for online banking at a bank branch in person. Then, online overseas remittance is available to you 24 hours 7days a week and you can send money to anyone, anywhere. Most banks offer reduced transaction fees and a preferential exchange rate for overseas remittances made online, making this the least expensive way to send money overseas. Please note though that only residents (those with a valid Alien Registration Card) are eligible for online banking. At an ATM: You must first register the overseas beneficiary at a bank branch in person (only one beneficiary per account). Then, you can remit money overseas at any of your bank’s ATMs. Again, only residents (those with a valid Alien Registration Card) are eligible to make overseas remittances from an ATM. Automatic overseas remittance from your regular checking account: If you send the same amount overseas on a regular basis, you can set up a regular automatic overseas remittance from your Korean won account. You must first register for the service and register each beneficiary (as many as you like) at a bank branch in person. At that time, you must choose the currency, the date, and the cycle (monthly, bimonthly, quarterly, or every six months) for the automatic transfers that will be made automatically to each designated beneficiary on the specified date. Automatic overseas remittance from a special overseas remittance account: You can select the criteria that will trigger an automatic overseas remittance from a special overseas remittance account: either by rate, by date, or by amount. You can only have one beneficiary per account, but you can open as many accounts as you would like. Money Gram: A money gram is the fastest way to send money (USD only) overseas. You must visit a bank branch in person with your passport to make this transaction. Your money will be deposited in the overseas beneficiary’s account in approximately one hour. This is a relatively new service in Korea and several restrictions apply. Banker’s Check: You can purchase a check in any amount you like and send (through mail) or carry (by hand) overseas. The fees are similar to those for an overseas remittance.
Best wishes,
Michelle Michelle Farnsworth Foreign Client Relationship Manager Shinhan Bank Foreign Customer Department 19F, 120 Taepyung-ro 2-Ga Jung-gu Seoul 100-102 Korea
Tel: 02-2151-2874 Fax: 02-2151-2878 Mob: 010-4788-1991 Email: farnsworth@shinhan.com Web: www.shinhan.com/en Facebook: www.facebook.com/ShinhanBank LinkedIn: http://kr.linkedin.com/in/ShinhanBank Twitter: www.twitter.com/ShinhanBankENG october 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 71
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Konglish of the Month The winner receives a food or entertainment voucher worth 50,000 won Please email your entries to: submissions@groovekorea.com
WINNER —Raphael Bourgeois
Crossword
60 Computer printer maker 61 Bearded bloomer 62 Crooked 63 32-card card game 64 Isn't informal?
Across
1 Little devils 5 Friends in France 9 Part of the foot 13 Plant anchorer 14 Made common cause (with) 16 Qatar's capital 17 Prelude to pasta, perhaps 19 Tune for two 20 Syrian city 21 Liberality 23 Mata ___ 25 Gibes 26 Milk dispenser 29 One of the Windward Islands 31 Hammer part
Down
32 Milne marsupial 33 Grasping 36 ___ mode 37 Dressed down 39 Bauxite, for example 40 Unrighteous 42 Among, in poetry 43 Food fish 44 "The Dance" painter 46 Cars 47 Rum cocktail 48 Dramatic word for the Yankees? 50 Bay of Naples resort 52 Six-stringed instrument 56 Distinction 57 Unwieldy 59 "Mila 18" novelist
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1 1963 Shirley MacLaine role 2 Drudgery 3 Corn bread 4 Songwriter Sondheim 5 Fur-trading tycoon 6 Cosmonauts' space station 7 False god 8 Governing body 9 Back-of-the-book list 10 Circus hand 11 Karpov's game 12 Can't stand 15 Nuts 18 Nautical pole 22 Protect 24 Composer Stravinsky 26 Poison-bearing tree 27 Cold-cuts emporium 28 Rat Pack member 30 Gads about 32 Trust 34 Chief city of Moravia 35 Pro votes 37 Montana city 38 Even 41 Most equitable 43 North African state 45 Some exercises 46 China-Russia border river 47 Connery's successor as 007 49 FBI employee 50 Give the cold shoulder 51 City on the Irtysh 53 Singer Amos 54 Ugandan despot 55 Balance 58 Powerful snake
sudoku
The aim of the puzzle is to insert numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain one of each digit from 1-9. Theres is a unique solution, which can be found by logical thinking.
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Pic of the Month
2nd Place
Paul Morris "Cross the Bridge"
1st Place
Micaela Newman "Dancer" Description: One of my favorite things to do here in Seoul is to stroll around the Namsan Hanok Village. It is close to my house, and is always full of great cultural experiences. For the Chuseok festivities, I headed over to watch the Korean dance show and was amazed by all the beautiful performers. Capturing them in a still frame doesn't do them justice, so I slowed down the shutter put up the ISO, and hoped that it would allow the dynamic nature of her performance to come through. Still not quite as good as the real thing!
Theme: Motion Blur
Together with Groove Korea we run the photo competition. Each month, a themed challenge is announced in Groove Korea and at the SPC. The SPC is an online community of Past themes include such topics expats in Korea who are interested in as Repetition, The Sun and Spring learning about and discussing the art Portrait. Just submit your interpretaof photography. But ‘Seoul Photo Club’ tion at the SPC or via email to have is a bit of a misnomer — membership a shot at having your pic published is free to anyone, anywhere in Korea. here in Groove Korea and winning the
The Groove spc Challenge
monthly prize. You must provide your name and contact details plus a 50-150 word description telling us the what/ where/when of the photo. Entries must be at least 2,000 pixels on the longest side and 300dpi to meet printing requirements, and be taken no more than two weeks prior to the announcement of the challenge.
For further info, visit the Seoul Photo Club on Flickr
www.flickr.com/groups/ seoulphotoclub The winner will receive a food or entertainment voucher worth 50,000 won.
November's Challenge:
'Contre-jour"
Photograph your subject against the light.
3rd Place
Catherine Hellsten "Subway Blur" 74 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| october 2011
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ITAEWON
Bungalow Lounge — 02-793-2344 This bar and restaurant sets the standards of unique excellence to higher levels - decked out with bamboo, sand, pools, swings, a fireplace and more. Chiropractic Clinic — 02-798-1446 American and Australian trained, doctors are fluent in English, Spanish & Korean. copacabana — 02-796-1660 Come to COPACABANA where a mere 29,000 won gets you all-you-can-eat of the best Brazilian barbeque and buffet in Korea. Craftworks — 02-794-2537 The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m.
HBC/KYUNGRIDAN
Don Valley — 02-796-2384 Conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon, this spacious restaurant accommodates 120 guests for delicious dinners and large parties. Open 24 hours everyday, it specializes in “Korean BBQ Done Right” - grilled beef ribs, bulgogi and bibimbap as well as many others. JONNY DUMPLING — 02-790-8830 Enjoy different styles of healthy, handmade dumplings made fresh everyday. Meat as well as vegetarian dumplings are available. LA CIGALE MONTMARTRE — 02-796-1244 Contemporary French cuisine in cozy and intimate surroundings.with a classy yet casual feel, it has a variety of food which includes a range of mussels. Its terrace brings an outdoor feel yet warm & dry comfort to accommodate the weather. LA PLANCHA — 02-790-0063 Spanish grill restaurant includes combination platters along with al la carte side dishes. Feast inside in the warm and cozy atmosphere or sit out on the plant covered terrace. LOCO LOCA — 02-796-1606 Enjoy Salsa music and dancing in the vibrant atmosphere. Freshly baked pizzas with Latino flavors and the very best South American wines will be served. MARAKECH NIGHT — 02-795-9441 Moroccan & Arabic restaurant offering authentic dishes, atmosphere and music. Wine, beer, juices and yogurt drinks are also available. Enjoy flavored tobacco from traditional shisha pipe. McDonald’s — 02-790-6413 Open 24 hours with breakfast served from 5 – 11 a.m. Panchos — 02-792-4746 A Mexican bar with darts, pool, television and a wide selection of music. A spacious setting with big windows overlooking Itaewon’s main street. Queen Queen welcomes ALL people for who they are and creates an open environment where different people from various backgrounds can cross barriers and unite as one community while having the time of their lives in the ultimate party kingdom!
HONGDAE
SKY Chiropractic & Massage — 02-749-4849 US trained and certified chiropractors and massage therapists. SKY Wellness Center integrates chiropractic and massage to correct your body’s imbalances and achieve optimum health and wellness.
TMAS — 02-796-7976 Total Martial Arts System. Designed for FOREIGNERS and lessons in English. learn true martial arts, training and spending time together like a family. Unique Travel — 02-792-0606 A travel agency in the heart of Itaewon where English, Japanese and Korean are spoken. Wolfhound Irish Pub — 02-749-7971 This two storey Irish pub has a wide variety of imported beers, exceptional food and a great atmosphere. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. 76 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| october 2011
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Final Thoughts By John Lincoln
In Korea, Pregnancy can be a Career-Killer The distinction between culture and morality is not always clear. The treatment of my wife by her company has been far from any shade of grey. She is Korean but speaks English fluently. She had been a valuable asset to her company, taking part in midnight conference calls and workshops abroad. That is until the word “pregnant” appeared on a small digital display just after Christmas. The first days of January were a joy. We reached the middle weekend of the month without any problems, but then the complications started. After two weeks of lying down at home, the doctor gave my wife the green light to return to work, as long as she rested as much as possible. During the previous fortnight, she had worked from the couch. Her bosses, rather than easing her back in, expected her to make up for her absence. She was forced to stay at work late into the evening, along with another woman who had fallen pregnant. Unfair comparisons followed: “She can do it, so you can too.” My own annoyance turned into anger when she had to work a weekend. By the end of the month she was sick again. We rushed to the clinic less prepared than before, but in even more of a panic. I watched a nurse ease my wife up onto a table as the door closed behind them. I waited in a dark corridor. The wait for news was agonizing, but when it did arrive, it came with a loud “boomboom-boom,” our unborn baby’s heartbeat matching my own. Still, the nurse told us that our pregnancy had a 50/50 chance of surviving the night. In the morning, while my wife waited for a scan, I found myself face to face with her most senior boss. I had made the short walk from the clinic to tell him she would not be able to make it to work that day. This man spoke English, but he barely reacted when I told him what had happened. He showed no emotion, and coldly asked me to wish her a speedy recovery. When she was able to call her office, they told my wife that she should return as soon as possible. It was another four days before we could leave the clinic, and the doctor ordered bed-rest for a month. This time her boss did not want her to work from home, but she was
still called frequently by her other superiors for work-related matters. They accused her of selfishness: Why could she not think of the company? Why did she only think of herself? Why would she not resign and make things easier for everyone? While she was recovering at home, her company was preparing to hire her replacement. She went back to work at the start of March. Needless to say, her time off had been unpaid, so bills were mounting. She felt uncomfortable about being in her office again, but she was determined to persevere. This attitude was tested when she was moved to a different division because her old job was already filled. This new position would involve a lot more work, and they dropped her salary by up to half from May, claiming she had lost the company money in her absence and she had no experience in this new field. There would also be a “three mistakes and you’re out” policy. Her training for the new division lasted less than a day. For the next few nights my wife cried herself to sleep. I asked her to resign, but she was defiantly against that. I wrote a letter to her company asking for her not be put under unnecessary stress, and made it clear that if anything were to happen, I would be holding the company responsible. Unsurprisingly, there was no reply. My wife’s superiors continued to put the pressure on, peppering her workload with snide remarks about her “selfishness.” My wife just wanted to get through to the end of July and start her maternity leave. She turned to the Labor Board for help. The Korean Labor Standards Act is clear. Article 72 protects pregnant women, insisting that they should not work overtime. It also allows them to be given a lighter workload if it is requested. Within a month, my wife was sitting before a Labor Board representative, alongside a superior and the company lawyer. However, what
seemed like a cast-iron case was twisted as the lawyer clung to every technicality he could find. My wife left the hearing despondent. Until she was actually fired, there was no complaint to be heard. But what about the workload, I asked her? The lawyer had handled that one. In another twist, the company’s lawyer approached my wife with a deal the next day. As long as she accepted a reduced maternity leave income from August and agreed not to return to work after that leave period, she could stay on the same salary. It was an illegal agreement, as we have since discovered, but she felt there was no alternative. We hoped that would be the end of it, that we could now look ahead to August. A few days later, after another round of late-night finishes, a mistake was found in one of the documents my wife produced for her company. It was actually a mistake that had carried over from her predecessor, but had never been picked up. An e-mail followed announcing strike one. Many advised her to simply resign. Koreans tell me that is just the way it is here. But she feels she has come this far and there is a point to be made for herself, for others in the same position, and to her boss. This is the same guy who strongly suggested my wife might be his “bit on the side” a few months ago. Apart from the fact he is married with children, he did not consider my wife’s circumstances. Maybe a lack of class, like its opposite, is just permanent. A healthy and happy boy was born on Aug. 26. My wife is officially on maternity leave, knowing a return to the company would be unwelcome. Coincidentally, the feeling is mutual. The opinions expressed here are those of the author and do not necessarily represent Groove Korea. To comment, e-mail opinion@groovekorea. com - Ed.
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