collection
collection The Lungarno Collection Magazine
friends Alexander Sladkovsky Peppe Servillo Arturo Galansino itineraries Dante Alighieri Streets of Florence Secret Rome Florence by Stefania Ricci
N.5 I ssue 2015 - 2016
S tyle
Giuseppe di San Giuliano Davide Rampello Spoon at the Gallery
city tips
street view
ph. Laziz Hamani
ph. Lorenzo Agius
Giampiero Bodino TESTIMONY TO THE ITALIAN SPIRIT
TESTIMONE DI ITALIANITÀ
The creativity of Giampiero Bodino, artist and designer of unique jewellery, holds a dialogue with the world – an increasingly global world even as far as luxury goods are concerned – but its origins lie in one precise part of that world: Italy. The country in which he was born and where he has chosen to remain and to locate the headquarters of his Maison of High Jewellery: at the beautiful Villa Mozart in Milan. It is the only place where his creations can be found. They are not on display in the showcases of spaces that look much the same everywhere. They cannot be bought online. For the basic concept of his philosophy is to give objects back their value as experiences, holding an ideal conversation with those who would like to make those objects their own and spurning the logic of mass production. Out of this comes a completely new connection between the client, his or her desires and the person who will fulfil them. A very modern relationship but one that has parallels with the bond that was forged in the Renaissance between the master craftsmen, in their workshops, and their patrons. In the Italian language, the word arte has the same root as the word for crafts and craftsmanship, artigianato, something that is also true of the English word ‘artisan’. And the work of the Turinese Bodino is a testimony to this methodological legacy, in which technique goes hand in hand with inspiration. Nor is this all: his vision draws on the works, the colours, the whole heritage of expression preserved in his native land. It is only in this way that it is possible today to create something authentic and personal that opens up new cultural horizons. The result? The dream of every guest at Bodino’s Villa Mozart is turned into a reality that will pertain to his or her own, highly individual approach to life.
La creatività di Giampiero Bodino, artista e designer di gioielli unici, dialoga con il mondo - un mondo sempre più globale anche per quello che riguarda i beni di lusso - ma ha le sue origini in una geografia precisa: l’Italia. Il paese in cui è nato e dove ha scelto di rimanere per stabilire la sede della sua Maison d’Alta Gioielleria: a Milano, nella bellissima Villa Mozart. Le sue creazioni si trovano solo qui, non sono esposte nelle vetrine di spazi ovunque identici, non possono essere acquisite online. Perché il concetto base della sua filosofia è restituire valore esperienziale agli oggetti, creando un ideale colloquio con chi quegli oggetti vuole farli propri, rifuggendo dalle logiche della produzione seriale. Si ridisegna un’inedita connessione tra il committente, i suoi desideri e chi li realizzerà. Una modernissima relazione che riproduce un rapporto analogo a quello che nel Rinascimento legava i Grandi Maestri, al lavoro nelle loro botteghe, ai loro mecenati. Nella lingua italiana, la parola “arte” ha la stessa radice di “artigianato” e di questa eredità metodologica, dove la tecnica è complice dell’estro, il torinese Bodino si fa testimone e interprete. Non solo: la sua visione si nutre delle opere, dei colori, dell’intero patrimonio espressivo custodito nella sua patria. Solo così oggi è possibile elaborare qualcosa di autentico e personale che dischiuda nuove prospettive culturali. Il risultato? Il sogno di ogni ospite della Maison Bodino si trasforma in una realtà che apparterrà al proprio, individualissimo progetto di vita.
CAPRI Places des Fleurs CAPRI Piazzetta Cerio , 14 - 80073
FIRenze Mobile +39 339 6685207 - 329 7160718 www.caprifleurs.com - info@caprifleurs.com
Villa Mozart - Via Mozart 9, Milano www.giampierobodino.com
Via del Purgatorio, 18 r - 50121
Giampiero Bodino TESTIMONE DI ITALIANITÀ
The creativity of Giampiero Bodino, artist and designer of unique jewellery, holds a dialogue with the world – an increasingly global world even as far as luxury goods are concerned – but its origins lie in one precise part of that world: Italy. The country in which he was born and where he has chosen to remain and to locate the headquarters of his Maison of High Jewellery: at the beautiful Villa Mozart in Milan. It is the only place where his creations can be found. They are not on display in the showcases of spaces that look much the same everywhere. They cannot be bought online. For the basic concept of his philosophy is to give objects back their value as experiences, holding an ideal conversation with those who would like to make those objects their own and spurning the logic of mass production. Out of this comes a completely new connection between the client, his or her desires and the person who will fulfil them. A very modern relationship but one that has parallels with the bond that was forged in the Renaissance between the master craftsmen, in their workshops, and their patrons. In the Italian language, the word arte has the same root as the word for crafts and craftsmanship, artigianato, something that is also true of the English word ‘artisan’. And the work of the Turinese Bodino is a testimony to this methodological legacy, in which technique goes hand in hand with inspiration. Nor is this all: his vision draws on the works, the colours, the whole heritage of expression preserved in his native land. It is only in this way that it is possible today to create something authentic and personal that opens up new cultural horizons. The result? The dream of every guest at Bodino’s Villa Mozart is turned into a reality that will pertain to his or her own, highly individual approach to life.
La creatività di Giampiero Bodino, artista e designer di gioielli unici, dialoga con il mondo - un mondo sempre più globale anche per quello che riguarda i beni di lusso - ma ha le sue origini in una geografia precisa: l’Italia. Il paese in cui è nato e dove ha scelto di rimanere per stabilire la sede della sua Maison d’Alta Gioielleria: a Milano, nella bellissima Villa Mozart. Le sue creazioni si trovano solo qui, non sono esposte nelle vetrine di spazi ovunque identici, non possono essere acquisite online. Perché il concetto base della sua filosofia è restituire valore esperienziale agli oggetti, creando un ideale colloquio con chi quegli oggetti vuole farli propri, rifuggendo dalle logiche della produzione seriale. Si ridisegna un’inedita connessione tra il committente, i suoi desideri e chi li realizzerà. Una modernissima relazione che riproduce un rapporto analogo a quello che nel Rinascimento legava i Grandi Maestri, al lavoro nelle loro botteghe, ai loro mecenati. Nella lingua italiana, la parola “arte” ha la stessa radice di “artigianato” e di questa eredità metodologica, dove la tecnica è complice dell’estro, il torinese Bodino si fa testimone e interprete. Non solo: la sua visione si nutre delle opere, dei colori, dell’intero patrimonio espressivo custodito nella sua patria. Solo così oggi è possibile elaborare qualcosa di autentico e personale che dischiuda nuove prospettive culturali. Il risultato? Il sogno di ogni ospite della Maison Bodino si trasforma in una realtà che apparterrà al proprio, individualissimo progetto di vita.
ph. Laziz Hamani
TESTIMONY TO THE ITALIAN SPIRIT
Villa Mozart - Via Mozart 9, Milano www.giampierobodino.com
Highlight s
collection
O ne
New Style
of the distinguishing features of the style
F lorence ’ s architecture between 14 th and 15 th century ( precursor of the R enaissance ) was the linear perspective , developed by F ilippo B runelleschi . T he streets built by the M edicis to the east of F lorence and the city ’ s general urban layout served as the immediate testing ground (U ffizi G allery , outside colonnade , ph . L orenzo C otrozzi ) dominating the
Highlight s
collection
Street People W alking
the streets of
F lorence
means
diving into a world authentically
F lorentine . N either tourism , nor globalization , nor modernity have
changed its character and the people ’ s
lifestyle , especially in some neighborhoods
S anta C roce and S an F rediano (B utcher at the S an L orenzo C entral M arket , ph . L orenzo C otrozzi ) like
Highlight s
collection
D iscover
Surprises
something rare and unique at
every corner in the maze of streets that
F lorence has kept intact for centuries . F rom a laboratory , where a marble sculpture from around 500 is being restored , to an artisan workshop full of unique pieces in the making , waiting to be discovered by a lucky buyer
(L amberto
and
D uccio B ianchi ‘ s D ario G arofalo )
workshop , ph .
Highlight s
collection
Like at the roulette table B lack
and red house numbers , just like at the
roulette table .
W hat ’ s
normal to
F lorentines ,
can be rather confusing to tourists and even
G oogle
S treet V iew will struggle finding F lorence . H ere ’ s the secret : business numbers are red , residence numbers are black . K ey is to pay attention to the color , and
an address in
as many streets have the same house number
twice on two completely different buildings !
Highlight Highlight s s
c oclo l el c l etci o t ino n
Wonders
D eclared a W orld H eritage S ite by UNESCO in 1982, F lorence is an open air museum . C hurches , buildings , open galleries , courtyards , cloisters and squares testify to the city ’ s long - standing vocation for the arts . A half - day walking tour will reveal the city ’ s true essence ( detail of the U ffizi G allery ’ s outside colonnade , ph . D ario G arofalo )
Highlight s
collection
Street Art An
independent movement of more or less
anonymous street artists has been hitting
F lorence for some years T hey are C let , B lub , E xit /E nter , V aclav P isvejc and I nserra ( a portrait of F ederico da M ontefeltro by P iero della F rancesca kept at the U ffizi G allery , reinterpreted by B lub , ph . L orenzo C otrozzi ) the streets of now .
15 Editorial Genius and beauty by Leonardo Ferragamo
17 notes Walking Florence by Valeriano Antonioli
Friends 20-21 Alexander Sladkovsky Sudden inspir ations
22-23
38-46
Walking Streets of Florence
48-53
Rome’s panoramic views Landscape safar i
24-25 Arturo Galansino Ar t in progress
Itinerary 28-31 My florence A special point of view
grocery stores A little walk downtown
84-86
Challenge
The Br unel factor
47
87
GUESS WHERE THIS IS? Discover the new
Peter Brunel
events ”Spoon”, inspired events at the
Lungar no Collection challenge
Bor go San Jacopo restaur ant
Art & Style
88-89
Giuseppe DI SAN GIULIANO A gentleman’s passions
The wonderful wor ld of…
66-69
90-91
62-65
Spoon - I eat earth The new exhibition at the Galler y Hotel Ar t
70-71
clet Street aesthetics
32-37
72-75
All roads lead to Dante
Florence’s best
Secret rome Magnificent sur pr ises!
by Stefania Ricci
Anniversary
78-83
54-59
peppe Servillo My roots
food
Davide Rampello Theatre of wonder s
Loretta Fanella
The Fusion B ar & Restaurant Nikkei style
tips 94-98 TIPS What to do and where to go in Florence and Rome
CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755 260 years of continuous history reflect the transmission of our watchmaking savoir-faire.
PAT R I M O N Y P E R P E T UA L C A L E N DA R
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collection
The Lungarno Collection Magazine N.5 Issue 2015-2016 editor in chief Matteo Parigi Bini Co-editor in chief Teresa Favi Editorial Director Valeriano Antonioli Managing Editor Cristina Fogliatto editor Sabrina Bozzoni, Francesc a Lombardi, ALessandra Luc arelli contributors Serena C antagalli, Arturo Galansino, Stefania Ricci, Peppe Servillo, Alexander Sladkovsky photographers ARCHIVIO FOTO LOCCHI, Lorenzo Cotrozzi, Sofie Delauw, Dario Garofalo, ALESSANDRO MOGGI, Miki Nakano, NewPressPhoto, Valentina Stefanelli, Rocco Tosc ani cover Giorgio C asilli, GREENGROCER AT the Sant’Ambrogio MARKET (Ph. Lorenzo Cotrozzi) art editors Martina Alessi, Chiara Bini translations TESSA CONTICELLI, Karin honsberg advertising director Alex Vittorio Lana advertising Alessandra Nardelli, DAniela Zazzeri publisher gruppo editoriale (Alex Vittorio Lana & Matteo Parigi Bini) www.gruppoeditoriale.com
Gruppo Editoriale
Gruppo Editoriale
www.angelacaputi.com ph. alessandrobencini.com
Editorial
collection
Genius and beauty ph. Miki Nakano
Leonardo Ferragamo, President of Lungarno Collection
A
special issue devoted to the streets of F lorence , to share with you the stories , secrets and treasures of inestimable value they hide We have devoted this new
Florence became the capital of
Collection issue to the streets of
Italy. Today, Florence bur sts with
Florence and to the treasures of
renewed ener gy, symbolizing
inestimable value they hold.
Italy’s recovered enthusiasm at the
We hope our reader s will be
epicenter of an extr aordinar y land:
moved by the exceptional ener gy
Tuscany.
found in these alleys, which we have the pr ivilege of exper iencing ever y day. Our streets are imbued with ar tisan spir it and patr iotic pr ide , they embody the perfect blend of creative genius and architectur al beauty that has made Florence famous the wor ld over. One hundred and fifty year s ago,
15
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Notes
collection
Walking Florence Valeriano Antonioli, CEO of Lungarno Collection and Editorial Director of Collection Magazine
L et
every street of F lorence be the destination of your trip , the one memory that you will cherish for a lifetime Strolling through the histor ic
To get a special glimpse of these
intr iguing Lungar ni streets. This sor t
center’s nar row streets is the best
allies from above , change your field of
of composed chaos animates the ver y
way to discover Florence , the city
vision and discover one of my favor ite
hear t of the city. The little streets
of a thousand and one attr actions.
ter r aces in town, La Ter azza of the
where pedestr ians, musicians, street
Discover ies lur k around ever y cor ner :
Continentale Hotel. From here you
ar tists, bicycles, scooter s, hor se-dr awn
from the wor kshop of an ar tisan
can admire the city’s main streets from car r iages, r ickshaws and the occasional
restor ing a sixteenth-centur y marble
an unusual per spective , you can mar vel car seem to interweave in perfect
statue to hidden alleys with the most
at the way Florence has been built
balance….because ever yone of them is
romantic names (V ia delle Belle Donne
and under stand its creative soul. To
par t of Florence .
or V ia dell’Amore!)… and even to
your feet lie iconic streets (a section
road signs humorously tr ansfor med
of the Ponte Vecchio seen from
into wor ks of ar t by innovative
above!), pr ivate allies and passageways
street ar tist Clet. Let the road less
(the Vasar i Cor r idor that connects
tr aveled inspire you with its hidden
Palazzo Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti by
ar t and impressions. It is here where
r unning through the Uffizi Galler y and
unfor gettable moments occur and
over the Ponte Vecchio), waterways
memor ies are made .
(the Ar no r iver flowing) and the
17
friends Alexander Sladkovsky Peppe Servillo Arturo Galansino
Street view 19
Friends
collection
Sudden inspirations Alexander Sladkovsky
Passion for music is a matter of sudden inspirations. The fir st one occurred to me as a child, watching my parents, both musicians, playing together in our house in Moscow. Then another one hit me like a train, at the age of thir teen, when I went to a concer t conducted by the great Yuri Temir kanov. It left me completely dazed and on that
A lexander S ladkovsky ,
ver y night I decided I would become a conductor myself. Fir st I studied at the Moscow Conser vator y and then at the St. Peter sburg Conser vator y. I met Temir kanov, who had been my role
artistic director
and principal conductor of the
N ational
S ymphony O rchestra of T atarstan and a guest at the P ortrait F irenze , shares some insights
model since that night, again in 1999, as he was on the jur y of a competition I was taking par t in. I had the honour of winning and of meeting my idol. It was an immense satisfaction when Rostropovich invited me to par ticipate in an event dedicated to Musorgsky, in St. Peter sburg. And then wor king and bonding with the National Symphony Orchestra of Tatarstan for the past five year s, in addition to the many collaborations with foreign orchestras, such as the National Academy of Santa Cecilia and, last October, with the wonderful Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Orchestra. It is also a great pleasure to conduct talented soloists like Denis Matsuev and singer s of the caliber of Montserrat Caballé and Plácido
Sparks
ideal hotel
The relationship
Sweet
Quiet, high ser vice
between a
Florentine
memories
standards, elegant
conductor and an
emotions
Mozar t’s Clar inet
but also fr iendly.
orchestr a is like
Concer t in A major, The Portrait
Stepping into
the one between
K. 622, which my
Firenze is a perfect
a man and a
parents used to
example…
woman: great
play when I was
love is initiated
a child
by a spar k
the Uffizi Galler y, I picture ancient Florentines strolling past the Loggia dei Lanzi
Domingo.
20
A lexander S ladkovsky , conductor and H onoured A rtist of R ussia , at the P ortrait F irenze on the occasion of a concert
O rchestra of the M aggio M usicale F iorentino (P h . D ario G arofalo ) with the
Friends
collection
My roots Peppe Servillo
My fir st memor y of music is my parents singing me to sleep to the sound of Ninna nanna della Vita, a song by Beniamino Gigli. My parents were big folk music fans and I was raised in an environment imbued with the cultural values of folk arts. I was brought up to respect our forefather s, our homeland and our roots. This provided me with the tools necessar y to grow, fir st of all as a human being, and also as an ar tist. However, in the ear ly stages of my career as a singer, I did ever ything I could to distance
E ncounter with singer , performer and actor P eppe S ervillo , protagonist at a P alazzo S pini F eroni event that celebrated the spirit and genius of S alvatore F erragamo
myself from my roots. This necessar y reaction allowed me to figure out what direction to take in life , how to combine my Neapolitan background with the knowledge and most varied skills I had accumulated from per sonal experience . It takes a style to infuse ever ything with poetic syntax. Most of Neapolitan folk music comes from the street, but masterpieces arise from the interplay of music as a collective ,
Indelible memory from a shared language and from an The fir st individual’s per sonal creative vision, an auteur’s vision. Essentially, to hand down comedies by Eduardo De a tradition without making it look quaint Filippo, that I and static, it is necessar y to “betray” it, watched with my in other words, to reinterpret it. That’s parents, Toni and my other siblings what it takes to reach out to a new on stage or on audience , to ensure the core of such television tradition is treasured.
Theatre My brother Toni and I will be staging the play Inner Voices by Eduardo De Filippo in Ger many, Fr ance , Belgium and Hungar y
22
Music I will be tour ing throughout the summer with Javier Girotto and Natalio Mangalavite , following the release of our third album Par ientes
Favorite film Ver tigo by Alfred Hitchcock, star r ing a stunning Kim Novak
P eppe S ervillo ,
versatile
and brilliant artist ,
singer , actor , composer and screenwriter .
H e is the brother of actor T oni S ervillo from the O scar winning movie “T he G reat B eauty �
A portrait of A rturo G alansino . F rom the M usÊe du L ouvre in P aris to the N ational G allery and R oyal A cademy of A rts in L ondon – a brilliant career
Friends
collection
Ar t in progress Arturo Galansino
After having spent some year s abroad, fir st in Par is and then in London, I have retur ned to Italy, and to be precise , to Florence . Ever y step of my career has been a wonderful lear ning and growth oppor tunity: the Louvre as a univer sal museum; the National Galler y as a treasure trove of paintings; the Royal Academy of Ar ts as one of the wor ld’s most prestigious exhibition spaces and as a school, thus, a lively place where ar tists study and wor k ever y day.
of
A rturo G alansino is the new director P alazzo S trozzi . T hough only 38 years
of age , he has built a distinguished career first in
These exper iences let me perceive
P aris
and then in
L ondon
the var iety of the ar t wor ld. I was blessed with the great pr ivilege of studying in Italy, in Milan and in Tur in, where I received my PhD in Ar t Histor y and Criticism. As for me , I believe that Italian univer sities, especially the study of the humanities, are still among the best in the wor ld. Retur ning to Italy today for a cultur al project is both a per sonal and a gener ational challenge . In Italy, we tend to for get that gener ational tur nover at top-level positions is essential in all fields to maintain a dynamic path. It did not take long to fall in love with Florence’s small-town quality of life: ever ybody knows each other, there is a fr iendlier and more human-scale environment.
Plans Creating intense dialogue amongst local and inter national institutions, from classical to contempor ar y ar t
The vision Tur ning Palazzo Strozzi as the showcase of Tuscan excellence into Italy’s most prestigious and dynamic exhibition space
25
Favorite view of Florence Impossible to say, Florence’s culture and beauty is omnipresent
Dimensions In Florence I love the fr iendly atmosphere . In London I enjoyed the anonymity of the big city
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A bove :
a picture of the
“A P alace C ity � showing until A pril 3, 2016 at the S alvatore F erragamo M useum . B elow : P alazzo S pini F eroni the C ostume G allery exhibition
and the
and
28
I tinerar y
collection
My Florence Stefania Ricci
The Florence I love is the one I have been seeing ever y mor ning from my bicycle since I was a young student, wor king at the Uffizi Galler y’s educational depar tment in Via della Ninna. I am a bor n Florentine and I have always lived here . Ever y evening, when I cross the Santa Trinità bridge at sunset, I am mesmer ized by the view and I for get all the challenges of the day. I consider myself to be ver y lucky. Dur ing my time at the Uffizi Galler y,
S tefania R icci ,
I would often take groups of school
art historian and passionate director of the S alvatore F erragamo M useum , tells us about her love of F lorence
children to visit the museum’s collection. I am a medievalist, and the wor k of ar t I have always loved best is The Adoration of the Magi by Lorenzo Monaco (7): the clothes, the color s…
Before opening the wardrobes
He was a tr uly special per son, who
pure beauty. I remember stopping
containing the Marchese’s wonderful
left me with deep and indelible
before the painting with the children
creations (4), I meticulously went over
memor ies. The archival wor k began
and we would all gaze at it for a while . all the photogr aphs and press-cuttings
with me and was car r ied on over the
In those year s, I began wor king for
I could find. My univer sity background
year s by the Pucci family. Our effor ts
the Costume Galler y and with Kr isten
had taught me a r ational and r igorous
were crowned with success in 1998
Piacenti, today the director of the
method. When I finally opened those
with the great exhibition dedicated to
Stibber t Museum.
“treasure boxes”, I already knew
Emilio Pucci at Palazzo Pitti’s White
That was my fir st encounter with
near ly ever ything about the famous
Room. Actually, I was already wor king
fashion and with the histor y of
fashion house .
at the Palazzo Feroni Museum for
fashion. The director liked the way
One day at the height of summer,
Salvatore Ferragamo, but they gr anted
I wor ked and we collabor ated for
a ver y elegant man walked in. I still
me the time to per sonally take care
sever al year s. At the time I wor ked
recall his white suit and light-blue
of the exhibition. I feel a strong
freelance and the Maison Pucci (6)
tie . “Good mor ning, I’m Emilio”, he
bond with the Costume Galler y and
asked me to reor ganize its archives, an
said. Little by little , we established a
the Maison Pucci, as they so deeply
offer that I accepted enthusiastically.
relationship based on mutual esteem.
contr ibuted to my education.
29
1
There are many dear memor ies of my initial year s with Fer r agamo. Because of my previous wor king exper ience at the Costume Galler y, Ms. Piacenti offered me the oppor tunity to wor k on the Salvatore Ferragamo archives (5, 9). As much as I loved Fer r agamo’s creations, being a young woman passionately fond not only 2
of medieval ar t but also of fashion, I was wor r ied to not be up to a job that had more to do with objects than with documents. So I asked my
watch it grow, exhibition by exhibition
shops. This is where the old and
teacher Mina Gregor i for advice . She
(2, 8).
authentic Florence is still alive .
smiled and said: “If you can wr ite a
The latest exhibition A Palace and the
In summer time , I enjoy dining in the
record card for a painting by Giotto,
City celebr ates the 150th anniver sar y
Piazza della Passera or going to the
you can do it for a Fer r agamo shoe”.
of Florence as the capital of Italy and
Trattoria Armando, a tr aditional
Her blessing mar ked the end of my
can be seen until Apr il 3rd, 2016 (1).
Tuscan restaur ant in town. My soul
career as a dedicated medievalist and
It explores the histor y of Palazzo the beginning of my collabor ation with Spini Feroni, which, unknown to the Fer r agamo family. I am ver y fond many, has once been the seat of the
rejoices however at the places of
of the Fer r agamo family member s, in
municipality of Florence . A jour ney
Librar y, where treasures of
par ticular of Wanda and her daughter
through the past, from 1289 to the
inestimable value are kept. But also
Fiamma, who unfor tunately passed
present day, through documents,
at the Gonnelli bookshop in Via de’
away a few year s ago.
wor ks of ar t and objects.
Ser vi; once the gather ing place of
The Salvatore Ferragamo Museum
My favor ite neighborhood is Santo
Futur ist and Macchiaioli ar tists, it still
(3) came to life after year s of archival
Spir ito: I love wander ing the nar row
has an old-style atmosphere wor th
wor k. It is like a child to me and I
streets looking around the small cr aft
discover ing.
30
culture in Florence , such as at the National and the Marucelliana
1
5
8
31
ph. Archivio Foto Locchi
3 4
6 7
9
P iazza S an G iovanni with the B aptistery in the middle and , behind , the facade of the C athedral of S anta M aria del F iore . O n the right page , the S tatue of D ante in front of the C hurch of S anta C roce ( ph . R occo T oscani )
32
Anniver sar y
collection
All roads lead to Dante
Following the trail of Messer Alighieri’s key sights in medieval Florence T ext T eresa F avi P hoto L orenzo C otrozzi
If the father of the Italian language were to come back to life to see modern-day Florence, he would hardly recognize it. Between late May and ear ly June this year, we celebrate the 750 th birthday of Dante Alighieri. Back then, Florence was still a maze
On
the
750 th
anniversary of
F lorentine poet . A nd in 2016, watch out for some “D antesque ” details in R on H oward ’ s latest D an B rown adaptation , “I nferno ”, shot in F lorence
of stone and wood leaning one against the other, alternating with wor kshops, warehouses, vegetable gardens and vineyards. Giotto’s bell palazzi or the streets built during the Renaissance days of the r uling Medici family, did not exist yet. Neither did Santa Maria Novella nor the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore , Florence’s Duomo. Still, Florence managed to preser ve most locations related to the author of the Divine Comedy, some hidden to the eye and near ly invisible , other s of exceptional beauty, which we will now discover together. Many places ser ved as the backdrop for the new film by Ron Howard, Infer no (coming to movie theatres in 2016), adapted from Dan Brown’s latest
birth ,
a fascinating tour related to the great
of narrow streets, little houses made
tower, Br unelleschi’s dome , the grand
D ante ’ s
bestselling novel about the mysteries behind Dante’s Divine Comedy. And so Florence , at the hear t of the novel, became the location for the American film director for the shooting of the movie this May, bringing back Tom Hanks as Professor Rober t Langdon. We begin in Piazza San Giovanni, one of the few sights Dante would have no trouble recognizing: the Baptister y (6, 8). It has remained intact with the exception of the door s, that were made of wood in his days. Dante likely drew inspiration from the mosaics covering the dome to describe Satan gobbling up the Damned in his Inferno. In 1266, he
33
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
T he B adia F iorentina ’ s bell tower
Anniver sar y
collection
F rom
left ,
of the
D ante ’ s death mask “I nferno ” film , adapted
P alazzo V ecchio , R on H oward D an B rown ’ s bestselling novel
kept at from
and
T om H anks
during the shooting in
F lorence
was baptized here . The space between
houses of the Uber ti family, head of
di Ricovero, Beatrice’s father, who
the Baptister y and the Church of Santa
the Ghibelline faction, razed to the
founded the Hospital of San Matteo
Reparata, Florence’s fir st cathedral,
ground and with a jumble of small
in 1285 and then the Hospital of Santa
on whose site the constr uction of
houses close to the Church of Santa
Maria Nuova.
the Duomo began in 1296, was filled
Cecilia, where now we find the Loggia
Piazza Elisabetta, Via del Corso and
with tombs and sarcophagi. Probably
dei Lanzi and the current Caffè Rivoire .
Via Santa Margherita were at the hear t
Dante had barely been able to see
Perhaps he saw the laying of Palazzo
of Dante’s Florence . But today, poor
the new Duomo’s façade , designed by
Vecchio’s foundation stones.
Dante wouldn’t be able to find his own
Arnolfo (the one we see today is a
If you have read Dan Brown’s novel,
house . As a matter of fact, the current
19 -centur y remake), before he was
you already know that Dante’s
house of Dante (2), which is also a
banished from Florence in 1301, at the
celebrated death mask is found at
nice museum, was built in the 1800s.
age of 36. We head towards Via de’
Palazzo Vecchio. Actually, none of
The real house of the Alighieri family,
Calzaiuoli, an elegant shopping street
the death masks of Dante known
of noble origins but not wealthy, was
rich in histor y. At number 11r, between
to exist are authentic, they are all
probably located not far from here ,
Orsammichele and Piazza della
fakes or sculptures created at a time
in front of the Castagna Tower (5),
Signoria, there is a beautiful building,
subsequent to the poet’s death. The
remar kably intact. Here , the Prior s of
which once belonged to Dante’s friend
mask kept at Palazzo Vecchio, for
Florence , including Dante , gathered
Guido Cavalcanti, as shown by the
instance , was made in 1915.
before the constr uction of the Bargello
coat of arms placed on the edge of the
From here we take Via dei Cerchi
(9), which Dante was able to see ,
facade .
and then il Corso. In the mid-1200s,
although incomplete , with the top
Fur ther on, in Via Por Santa Maria, a
this street was ver y lively and is now
floor still missing. He would, however,
plaque placed on the Amidei Tower (3)
dotted with Dantesque plaques and
recognize the Badia Fiorentina and
quotes the ver se by Dante (Paradise ,
tower s. In Dante’s days, the most
the small church of Santa Margherita
Canto XVI, 136-141) according to
notable Florentine families lived along
de’ Ricci (4), where the Poet is said
which the Amidei family set off the
this street, such as the Donatis (1) and
to have met his muse Beatrice , and
spar k that ignited the war between
the Portinaris, the family of Dante’s
where the beautiful daughter of Folco
Guelphs and Ghibellines in Florence .
loved one , Beatrice, who lived here
Por tinari is supposedly buried. It seems
Then we reach Piazza della Signoria,
at number 6. Originally from Fiesole ,
irrelevant whether the legend holds
which Dante would hardly recognize
the Por tinari family boasted several
tr ue , judging from the number of love
as it is today. He had seen it with the
illustrious descendants, such as Folco
notes left behind by visitor s ever y year.
th
36
L oggia
B igallo , C athedral M aria del F iore
del
next to the of
S anta
37
St re e t s of F l or ence
The best place to capture the magic of a city is in its streets which, just like blood vessels, supply life and oxygen to the whole body P hoto L orenzo C otrozzi
F lorence
seen from
a height is cut through by
V ia C alzaioli ,
the street that connects
P iazza S an G iovanni and P iazza della S ignoria
38
39
V ia P orta R ossa
40
V ia S anta E lisabetta
41
42 ph. Rocco Toscani
ph. Rocco Toscani
ph. Rocco Toscani
P eople ,
street artists ,
curious details and other magic surprises through the streets of the center
43
V ia
44
della
C ondotta
B orgo S an J acopo
V ia
46
delle
T erme
GUESS WHERE THIS IS?
For information:
Lungar no Collection challenges you and invites you to discover some of the most beautiful streets in Florence . Read the QR Code and find out how you can win the competition and guess where this month’s secret glimpse of the city was taken. Each weeks prize: a fantastic aperitif for 2 in one of the most beautiful cocktail bars in the city, by Lungarno Collection.
47
La n d s c a p e safar i
Rome’s best panoramic views. Where, how, when and why T ext T eresa F avi
T op : R ome from the J aniculum . B elow : the R oman F orum from the V ittoriano ’ s T errace . P receding page : T errace of the Q uadrigas on the top of the V ittoriano
50
I tinerar y
c o ll e c t i o n
F rom
left :
of the
G ianicolo , seen from the P alatine hill , the keyhole K nights of M alta , F ountain in the O range G arden
It is breathtaking, eye-catching and hear t-war ming. Rome seen
A
from above is like a huge pink
of the
G rand P riory
best lookouts .
I nteresting
to avoid peak times
Tiber r iver, nar row streets paved with cobblestones, gr and avenues, baroque-style swir ls, sublime r uins and par ks shaded by statuar y cluster pines. As Rome is simply unique , we have selected seven spots with spectacular scenic views.
lookouts. The view cover s the entire histor ic center extending beyond the Tiber r iver, at the foot of what once was the Popes’ Castle . The best obser vation point is the panor amic ter r ace beneath the statue of the angel. It is best to admire the scener y ear ly in the mor ning or late
del Popolo and the Villa Medici. Climbing to the top, up to Piazza Napoleone I, look in the direction of St. Peter’s Basilica to under stand why the Pincian Hill is considered to be one of the city’s most beautiful lookouts. English landscape painter William Tur ner chose this point as his favor ite to document Rome . Guests of the Por trait Roma
in the after noon, without the sunlight exper ience the most unfor gettable from the south limiting its view. and breathtaking view of the Piazza Our Roman landscape safar i
continues with a walk to the Pincian Hill, behind Piazza di Spagna. From here you can fully enjoy Piazza
facts unknown
to many and some tips and tricks
and domes, roofs and ter r aces, the
to be one of Rome’s most beautiful
R oman O rder
bird ’ s - eye view of the capital city from its
shell, speckled with bell tower s
Castel Sant’Angelo is considered
of the
di Spagna, the Spanish steps and Tr inità dei Monti from the hotel’s ter r ace. A 130-square-meter pr ivate living
51
I tinerar y
c o ll e c t i o n
F rom left : panoramic view on the T evere river from C astel S ant ’A ngelo , from the T errace of the Q uadrigas on the V ittoriano , from the O range G arden . B elow : T rinità dei M onti from the terrace of one of the P ortrait R oma ’ s suites
room in the open, with a fully-
The Aventine Hill today is an elegant
stocked honor bar and a standing
and residential par t of Rome with a
invitation to relax.
fascinating lookout. Glance through
The 360° view of Rome is matchless
the key-hole of the Gr and Pr ior y of
and, the best par t about it, you
Rome of the Order of Malta (which
won’t have to share it with crowds
cur rently houses the embassies to
of tour ists.
the Holy See and was once used to
The Palatine Hill, where ancient
provide shelter to the Templar s) to
Roman Emperor s had their palaces
enjoy the most incredible view of
built, is the center most of the Seven
Rome: an optical illusion makes St.
Hills of Rome and looks down upon
Peter’s dome appear at the end of
all the monuments between the
the building’s garden. The Orange
Roman For um and the Colosseum.
Garden, also known as the Savello
Vigna Barber ini’s splendid ter r ace
Par k, features a lovely fountain at the
reopened to the public a few year s
entr ance , designed by Giacomo della
ago. Situated on the par t of the hill
Por ta.
that over looks the Colosseum and
Rising to the r ight of Rome is
the Arch of Constantine (that is, to
the city’s most beautiful hill, the
the nor th-west), it guar antees an
Janiculum, offer ing a scenic view of
unfor gettable impression.
the histor ic center and of most of
Il Vittoriano is located in the hear t
the city’s neighborhoods.
of the city, in Piazza Venezia. This
Daily at noon, a cannon shot fires
ver y famous monument offer s a not-
to remind Romans that it is lunch
to-be-missed oppor tunity known to
time . The prefer red time to go is
few.
ear ly in the after noon, when it is less
The elevator takes visitor s up to
crowded. The hill is easily reachable
the top of the ter r ace (the so-called
from the Tr astevere distr ict, offer ing
Ter r ace of the Quadr igas) which,
lovely views of the Pincian Hill’s
according to some , presents Rome’s
gardens and of the Colosseum as a
best view of the Colosseum.
bonus.
52
T op : V illa M edici seen from P ortrait R oma ’ s last - floor terrace B elow : S t . P eter ’ s B asilica from the highest point of
P iazza
del
P opolo
53
C hurch
of
S an C lemente ,
dome of the upper basili ca and flooring of the lower basili ca
F ollowing
page :
the upper basili ca ’ s central apse feature s a marvelous mosai c
Hidden
coll e ctio n
U n i m agi n abl e!
Places: a walking tour of Rome with an expert guide T ext S erena C antagalli *
Rome lures us with its wor ld-famous ar tistic beauty. But the hidden treasures, the precious details out of view in the maze of lanes and allies, behind front gates, bur ied under the streets we walk hastily ever y day, are what make us fall in love . That is why we want to take you on a tour of the “secret” Rome . Let’s star t with the Basilica of San Clemente, a tr ue time machine exper ience . Located just steps away from the Colosseum, this 12 th centur y
A void the tourist - crowded places and discover the treasures hidden in the capital city ’ s maze of streets
church does not attr act our attention at fir st sight: the façade is barely decor ated and, being so close to the monument symbol of ancient Rome , it goes easily unnoticed. But as soon as we step inside , ever ything changes: the mosaics of the apsidal basin, the holy or naments and the cosmati pavement are simply magnificent. A small staircase on the r ight aisle side takes us back in time to the under ground levels. The fir st level houses the ear ly Chr istian basilica, where ever ything remains untouched: columns, walls and floor, even the frescoes depicting the life of St. Clement are perfectly preser ved. In the middle of the nave to the left, is one of the ear liest examples of comics in ver nacular Italian: scenes
of Roman soldier s speaking to each
treasures.
other in a far from refined language .
Situated ver y close to the Basilica
The lowest level of the basilica
of San Clemente is the Church of
contains the remnants of a Roman
San Giovanni e Paolo, nestled in the
city dating back to the I centur y
par k of Villa Celimontana. Walking
A.C . (7), with highly sophisticated
along the Clivius Scaur i (5), an ancient
decor ations, stuccoes, columns, a
Roman street that r uns along the
Mithraeum (4), a cave used as a
basilica, we reach the entr ance to the
temple by the wor shipper s of Mithr as, lower level. an ancient Hellenistic religion and a
Once again, we encounter an
spr ing from which water still flows
unexpected sight as we walk into the
abundantly. As we go back up to the
house of a noble Roman from the 4 th
cur rent basilica, we see the city with
centur y A.C .
new eyes and a fir st under standing
All the rooms are beautifully frescoed
of its many unexpected hidden
and the color s have remained
55
D ome of the C hurc h of S ant ’I vo alla S apienza
56
57
B ramante ’ s C loister
incredibly br ight.
Mar ia della Scala, it is still in business
Sant’Ignazio. As we walk along the
We continue our explor ation of
with a moder n appear ance . But
nave and look up at the ceiling, we
secret Rome by visiting a tomb
hidden behind a small door, we find
slowly realize that what seems to be
of incompar able beauty: the
the entr ance that leads to the old
the dome is just an optical illusion.
Columbar ium built by freedman
phar macy on the fir st floor.
This well-done Tromp l’oeil painting
Pomponius Hylas, just steps away
It almost resembles a movie set for
leaves at fir st sight in doubt whether
from Por ta Latina and hidden from
a witch film: ampullas, potions, little
it is real or not.
sight.
glass vases and secret handwr itten
A must-see for those who love
Almost no one knows about the
prescr iptions.
extr avagant decor ations is the
existence of this small gem that will
Continuing our walk just steps away
Capuchin Cr ypt (8) of the Church
leave you speechless: ver y elegant
from Rome’s tr affic-congested streets, of Santa Maria della Concezione (2):
decor ations, near ly intact frescoes,
we cannot refr ain from peeking into
the bones of the fr iar s bur ied here
br ight and vivid color s.
the Churches’ cloister s, which are
have been used to create elabor ate
Rome equally sur pr ises with
like treasure boxes waiting to be
decor ations around the altar s,
unexpected locations above ground.
discovered.
chandelier s and holy or naments.
Discover Tr astevere , the hear t of
Two of the most beautiful and
The door and windows of Palazzetto
the Roman “movida”, with its maze
sur pr ising ones are Bramante’s
Zuccari (3, 6) in Via Gregor iana
of nar row streets and alleys, where
Cloister and the Cloister of Sant’Ivo
are quite disquieting too: monster s
getting lost is the r ule r ather than the alla Sapienza (1, 9): the for mer is a
with wide-open jaws decor ate the building’s façade , only a stone’s throw
exception.
fine example of Renaissance style , the
Here we find Rome’s first
latter of Roman baroque architecture . from the wor ld-famous Piazza di
apothecar y’s shop. Run by the
An extr aordinar y sur pr ise is in
Spagna.
religious of the Church of Santa
store for us inside the Church of
*Tour ist guide and Ar t histor ian
58
1
2
3
4
5
6
8
9
7
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Transitional
| Timelessness
Collection | Interior Design Bluknight.it Piazza degli Scarlatti, 2r - 50125 Firenze - 055 283398 - info@bluknight.it
a r t s t y l e s to r y Giuseppe Paternò Castello di San Giuliano Spoon – I eat earth at the Gallery Hotel Art Clet Abraham Davide Rampello
Street View
G iuseppe di S an G iuliano in his F lorentine home in V ia dei S erragli
62
Style
collection
A g e n t l e m a n ’s p a s s i o n s Exclusive interview with Giuseppe Paternò Castello di San Giuliano T ext T eresa F avi - P hoto D ario G arofalo
Via dei Serragli cuts r ight through Florence’s Oltr ar no area: on the left you find the Santo Spirito neighborhood, on the r ight San Frediano. The street r uns from nor th to south, from the Carraia bridge (Piazza Nazar io Sauro) to the medieval Porta Romana gate. At number 132, a plaque commemor ates Amer ican poet Nathaniel Hawthor ne , the famous author of The Scar let Letter, who lived here in 1858. Fur ther more , two illustr ious per sonalities were bor n in Via dei Ser r agli: St. Filippo Ner i, the Apostle of Rome , and Antonio Meucci, the inventor of the fir st sor t of telephone . This Florentine street conveys all the char m and atmosphere of the Oltrano area and here , in his magnificent residence , we met Giuseppe Paternò Castello di San Giuliano. Tr ansfixing eyes, superb class with a positive and contagious savoir faire. He belongs to one of Sicily’s oldest ar istocr atic families. ‘Nor man feudal nobility’, he explains, ‘descended from the combative Counts of Embr un who, shor tly after their ar r ival in Sicily around the year 1000, took on the
I n h i s lov e ly F lo r e n t i n e r e s i d e n c e , M a rc h e s e G i u s e p p e d i S a n G i u l i a n o , i s s h a r i n g fa m i ly s to r i e s a n d pa s s i o n s , a b ov e a l l , h i s m o d e l t r a i n s ...
name of the city they had conquered. The Ar ab name Budur nus was changed into the Italian Pater nò”. Sur rounded by the por tr aits of his ancestor s, our conver sation goes on. The most famous one shows Giuseppe’s great-gr andfather, Marchese Antonino di San Giuliano, who was the Minister for Foreign Affair s of the Kingdom of Italy from 1910 to 1914. The frescoed walls showcase not only his family’s histor y, but also his per sonal passions: flawless book shelves of histor y books of which, talking half-ser iously, he says he is ver y proud. The books r ise like stalactites from the Per sian car pets that cover the libr ar y’s floor, the char ming fur niture and the objects that fill all spaces r adiate a euphor ic
63
har mony throughout the house . “In 1953 my professional career began in Rio de Janeiro at the wonderful family-owned estate . Two year s later, Olivetti hired me . I went back to Sicily in 1959, where my uncle offered me the chance to wor k for a Florentine shoe manufactur ing company and, in August 1967, I was hired by Giusti. That same year a major shoe tr ade show opened in Florence , attended by buyer s from all over the wor ld. That’s when I decided to move to Florence . At the time , most buyer s and producer s gathered at Har r y’s Bar and it is here where I met Fiamma Ferragamo. From that moment on, our lives and destinies were entwined forever. I fell in love with Fiamma and Florence at the same time”. Do you feel more Florentine or
Style
collection
S ome
details of the hall and a picture of the wardrobe .
In
the middle and below :
G iuseppe di S an G iuliano E urope ’ s biggest
a specialist magazine covering the story of his electric railroad model , considered to be
Those said by my mother the day Sicilian? I feel both Florentine and Sicilian, but I she met her : “Your mother-in-law is a swashbuckling woman, the kind you like to see myself as European. can’t find these days anymore!” What is elegance in your opinion? Your most beloved place? Elegance is inbor n and has little to My family’s estate between Catania do with what you wear, as commonly and Sir acusa, where we produce olive believed. oil and grow citr us fr uit and where , A symbol of elegance in Florence? ten year s ago, I began producing wine . Its DNA, easily discovered when It is a beautiful place , ever yone is walking through the city. Take a look spellbound by its beauty. at Ponte Vecchio from the Santa Your greatest passions? Tr inita Br idge and cross over to Fir st of all, I love classical music above Via Tor nabuoni to see Florence’s all things. I have the pr ivilege of being centur ies-old elegance . close fr iends with many conductor s, Wanda Ferragamo, in a few words?
64
browsing through
including the great Zubin Mehta. And what comes second? Amongst many other s, I have a passion for model tr ains. And so we lear n that Giuseppe di San Giuliano has dedicated the past ten year s of his life to creating Europe’s most magnificent electric railroad model. To accomplish this uncommon and extr aordinar y enter pr ise , he emptied a 300-square-meter industr ial warehouse just outside of Florence . Here he began creating this model with the help of fr iends and exper ts, featur ing a digital command control system. The meticulousness with which the landscapes have been recreated is absolutely fascinating. The magnificent centr al station is a mix of Milan’s centr al station (the rear) and Ber lin’s centr al station (the front). At the ter minal station, there are tr ains coming and going, locomotives with 32 functions reproducing sounds, lights, maneuver s and even puffs of steam. “After so many year s of hard wor k and passion, we are finally near ing its completion”. A wish? “Being able to share it with as many people as possible”.
E legantly
frescoed walls ,
charming furniture and objects radiate a sense of euphoric harmony throughout the house
65
Feed your self on beauty! Vicolo dell’Oro becomes a canvas in the heart of F lorence
66
67
Art
collection
F rom
left ,
S imone D’A uria
and some details of his installation on the
Located on the Arno river’s “Rive Droite”, just behind Ponte Vecchio, Vicolo dell’Oro is a ver y quiet and peaceful oasis enclosed by the Galler y Hotel Art, the Fusion’s lovely outdoor space and the Continentale Hotel. This alley, which once provided accommodation for the young people who came to Florence from all over the wor ld to learn the ar t of gold casting in the wor kshops along the Ponte Vecchio, has become a ver y popular off-the-beaten-path attraction spread by word of mouth and Instagram.. You can go there any time of the day and you will always find someone looking upwards or taking a picture of the ar t installation currently decorating the front of the Galler y Hotel Ar t. The 2015 ar t installation created by Simone D’Auria is called Spoon – I eat earth and is a tribute to the 2015 Expo and its core theme Feeding the Planet. Energy for Life. Over 60 recycled and recyclable plastic spoons (made with the collaboration of Car lo Rizzetti, one of the founder s of the Cracking Ar t movement) have been arranged in the shape of a circular target (a concentric circle of white spoons surrounding the central par t made with red spoons) along the hotel’s exterior
G allery H otel A rt ’ s
fa ç ade
“S poon – I eat earth ” is a tribute to the 2015 E xpo and its core theme F eeding the P lanet . E nergy for L ife . S imone d ’A uria placed more than 60 recycled and recyclable plastic spoons on the G allery H otel A rt ’ s façade
wall. A huge 5-meter-high spoon, set in the middle of Vicolo dell’Oro, grows out from a half-sphere covered with splinter s of natural wood and cracked with light. An original spoon-bench has been placed next to the Continentale Hotel’s entrance , to encourage , like with all D’Auria’s previous ar t installations, spontaneous interaction with passer s-by. “The Spoon- explains Simone D’Auriais the perfect metaphor for the concept of nourishment, it is the fir st tool used to feed a child. The wor k – continues Simone – emphasizes the wor ldindividual relationship, through the concept ofhunger, broadly speaking,
68
which I see also as hunger for life , thought, freedom, experiences, openmindedness. It is a way of saying: “Grab one of these spoons and feed your self on the beauty, knowledge and culture that this city has been offering visitor s from all over the wor ld for centuries”. The spoon will be the fil rouge r unning through all the ar tistic and cultural initiatives planned by Lungarno Collection for 2015 (see the Spoon Dinner event at page 87). “We like the idea of nourishing this amazing city and all its visitor s again - says Valeriano Antonioli, the Group’s CEO - with creative spirit and culinar y excellence”.
A
spoon - bench
in the foreground
5- meter - high spoon V icolo dell ’O ro , opposite and a
in the middle of
the outdoor space
G allery H otel A rt ’ s F usion B ar of the
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2
aaaaa aaa aaaaaaaaa aaaaaa
70
Art
collection
Street aesthetics
Clet, the artist who transforms street signage into artwork T ext F rancesca L ombardi
When did you first arrive in Florence? In 2005, actually by chance . I had been living in Italy for sever al year s and I was looking for a place to set up my studio. Initially, I had planned to settle in Rome . But then I discovered the San Niccolò neighborhood and I was immediately str uck by its ener gy. And so I stayed. The city’s human-scale and fr iendly atmosphere won me over. You have created a unique and universally appealing artistic language… My cur rent ar tistic path began five year s ago in Florence . By living and wor king in the histor ic center, I noticed the shar p contr ast between the beauty of the city’s Renaissance architecture and the many street signs. I began thinking about how I could make street signs more visually appealing. At fir st, I added my street ar t illegally, in the dead of night. Now things have changed and many municipalities suppor t me . Is irony a trait of your personality or do you reser ve it for of your artwork? Of my per sonality and, thus, of my ar twor k. My ar twor k aims to shine a different light on the ordinar y and to put a smile on people’s face . Your focus seems to have been shifting towards sculpture lately… Are you refer r ing to the over sized
C hanging
people ’ s outlook on the city
and the world around them , putting a smile
on their faces in traffic - congested streets : art according to
nose on the San Niccolò Tower? It seems like an interesting alter native: big-size installations that “distor t” histor ic or moder n-style buildings. I have two impor tant projects coming up this summer : I will “add eyes” to Pr ato’s ancient city walls; and in Calenzano (both close to Florence), I will tr ansfor m an ENEL tower into a green sculpture . These two projects differ lar gely from my street signage wor ks, in ter ms of both time and ener gy. They are completely legal and agreed upon with local author ities. If you think of San Niccolò, it wouldn’t be possible otherwise…
71
C let A braham
T he A rchives
of
M emory ,
at the entrance
On
of
of
72
P avilion Z ero .
the right page , a portrait
D avide R ampello
Ex po
collection
T he
entrance and wooden hills seen from the outside , the
F arm A nimals R oom
created by master artisan - set designers
T he atre o f wonder s
Davide Rampello describes Pavilion Zero, the great gate into Expo 2015 T ext T eresa F avi
“The stor y begins with the ver y
A
dawning of human histor y, depicts
pavilion of great emotional impact based
on a solid theoretical framework ,
the evolutionar y process of man’s relationship with Nature, from
that already earned its curator the prestigious
W allpaper D esign A ward 2015
the domestication of animals and plants to the invention of tools for far ming and food preser vation, and ends with the paradox of our contemporar y food system. The stor y is more emotional and empathetic than didactic”. With these words, Davide Rampello descr ibes Pavilion Zero, of which he is the cur ator, and explains the idea behind the pavilion that welcomes the visitor s of Expo 2015 (Milano, May 1- October 31), what it communicates and how it is
the exhibition to explore all the other pavilions along the cardo and decumanus. Designed by Michele De Lucchi, Pavilion Zero was awarded the prestigious Wallpaper Design Award 2015 in the Best Building Site categor y. Pavilion Zero’s most amazing
related to the Expo’s core theme:
features?
Feeding the Planet, Ener gy for Life.
The Archives of Memor y at
Located at the main entr ance to the Expo site , Pavilion Zero is designed as a r ite of passage , a jour ney through histor y and memor y before stepping inside
the entr ance . It is a cyclopean constr uction in car ved wood made by extr aordinar y Italian ar tisans in the shape of an ancient baroque monaster y’s libr ar y bookcase .
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74
T he
huge
23- meter - high
tree breaking through the dome ’ s roof , representing the power of nature
A 50-meter-long, 23-meter-high
descr ibes the advent of the
the word itself says, it is directed
and 6-meter-wide bookcase , with
industr ial revolution. According to
towards unity and unity is man.
banister s accessible to ar tists
Davide Rampello, the key words
That is why I wanted to tell the
who will be perfor ming ever y
of the Pavilion Zero are lear ning,
histor y of mankind.
night (Pavilion Zero is the only
shar ing and excitement.
Your source of inspiration?
Expo pavilion open till 11 pm).
How did you imagine Pavilion
Books and wr itten testimonies,
Filled with dr awer s containing
Zero before it was built?
such as ancient Roman and Greek
the memor y of the wor ld, it is
The histor y of mankind inspired
treatises in or iginal language , the
also the celebr ation of Italian
me , because the histor y of food
foundation on which our culture
cr aftsmanship. The bookcase’s
and nutr ition coincides with the
was built.
back is an over one-thousand-
histor y of the homo sapiens. I had
Did Florence come to mind?
square-meter white wall featur ing
a sudden vision that stir red my
Dur ing the 15 th centur y in the
a video projection inspired by
imagination.
Humanism per iod, Florence was
the Chamber of the Giants of
The zero number evokes the idea
the cr adle of the reinter pretation
Mantua’s Palazzo Te , frescoed
of genesis from which ever ything
of Greek and Latin culture .
by Giulio Romano, with hunting,
originates. What were your first
For the fir st time , man had
fishing, far ming and breeding
working tools?
to reckon with memor y by
scenes. An ancient 25-meter-
Vocabular y, because words ser ve
reinter preting it, which led to the
high oak tree breaks through the
as the basis for all things.
Renaissance .
roof, a huge vase sur rounded
Explor ing the use mankind has
What effect do you imagine
by amphor as, cups, jar s and
made of words through histor y
Pavilion Zero to have on visitors?
wineskins from the wor ld’s
means gaining access to the basis
I expect visitor s to be amazed.
major museums, representing the
of all ideas.
It is a huge theatre of wonder s,
ancient ar t of food preser vation
How does the wide and high slant designed to be an emotional
and tr anspor tation in container s
of the pavilion relate to the Expo
typical of the most var ied cultures. theme? A 320-meter plastic model
machine conveying knowledge and encour aging reflection, mostly
The Expo is univer sal. And as
75
through sight and sound.
food Florence’s best grocery stores Peter Brunel Loretta Fanella Nikkei experience at the Fusion Bar & Restaurant
Street view
F rom above clockwise : P escheria M ontini M assimo , ortofrutta A lessandro V ettori , O lio e C onvivio , F orno P ugi
a aaaaaa
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Food
collection
F rom
left :
P rocacci , F orno B ecagli , C ivaie M echini , F orno P ugi
A little walk downtown Boutique grocery stores in the heart of Florence T ext T eresa F avi - P hoto D ario G arofalo
Florentines for m a powerful, near ly obsessive bond with their homeland. Even Pellegr ino Ar tusi, the father of Italian cooking, published his book in 1891 here in Florence , where he acquired the taste for simple , genuine flavor s that are still treasured by a small ar my of Florentine shopkeeper s. We chose 15 of them (the top three in each categor y), on the basis of quality and locality. A fr iendly war ning: don’t r ush your shopping, you would deny your self the pleasure of choosing. FOOD MARKETS. The Centr al Mar ket of San Lorenzo (Piazza del Mercato Centr ale , Monday through Fr iday 7 am to 2 pm, on Saturdays 7 am to 4 pm) and Sant’Ambrogio Mar ket (Piazza Lorenzo Ghiber ti, Monday through Saturday 7 am to 2 pm) are the city’s two late nineteenth-centur y covered food mar kets. Cool in the summer, war m in the winter, lots of shouting and bawling, mostly fresh local produce and products, and a select choice of inter national specialties. The latest addition to the city’s food
H ere
are our top tips for gourmet grocery
F lorence without fail . warning : don ’ t rush your shopping ,
shopping in downtown
A
friendly
you would deny yourself the pleasure of choosing
mar ket scene is the Centr al Mar ket’s top floor, where one can eat and buy select food items that meet highly discr iminating standards (open daily 10 am to midnight). DELIC ATESSENS. Florentine deli owner s know only too well how appreciative customer s are of good locally-made prosciutto, or a San Miniato tr uffle , or a sheep’s milk cheese made by a fr iend and far mer. And, to not sound too “local” (consider ing that we’re in Florence), you will find also national and inter national specialties, provided they are the “best of ”. Do not miss La Dispensa in the hear t of the Oltr ar no
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neighborhood, selling foods from local small producer s (Bor go San Jacopo, 26/r, Monday through Saturday 8 am to 8 pm), Olio & Convivium, a gastronomic atelier (Via Santo Spir ito 4, Tuesday through Saturday 10 am to 2.30 pm and 5.30 pm to 10.30 pm, on Mondays open only in the mor ning), the histor ic Pegna (Via dello Studio 8 –Monday through Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm, on Sundays 11 am to 7.30 pm) and Procacci, since 1885 in the city’s most elegant shopping street (Via de’ Tor nabuoni 64/r, Monday through Sunday 10 am to 8 pm). BAKERIES. Only in Florence you would find a building that was once
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81
Food
collection
F rom
left :
M acelleria A nzuini
e
M assi , C antinetta
half church, half gr anar y, holy and civil at the same time: Or sanmichele . Which reminds us how impor tant wheat (and thus flour and bread) has always been in the Florentines’ life: saltless bread, schiacciata and focaccia, but also tr aditional cakes, such as the Schiacciata alla Fiorentina, a sor t of sponge cake spr inkled with icing sugar. Cantinetta da Verrazzano, owned by a well-known family of winegrower s (Via dei Tavolini 18/r, Tuesday through Saturday, 8 am to 9 pm), Forno Becagli, since 1909 (Bor go Ognissanti 92/r, Monday through Saturday 6.30 am to 3 pm and 4 pm to 8 pm), Pugi, ver y popular for its incompar able schiacciata (Piazza San Marco 9/b, Monday through Sunday 7.45 am to 8 pm). BUTCHER SHOPS. Butcher s are to Florentines as punks are to Londoner s. In the homeland of T-bone steaks, butcher s are thought of as prophets. They tell stor ies, offer advice and r aise ever yone’s spir it. More legendar y figures than shopkeeper s and, above all, they really know their tr ade . Antica Macelleria Azzarri, a “high end” butcher shop just off Via de’ Tor nabuoni (Via della Spada 22/r,
da
V errazzano , F orno B ecagli , B ottega
Monday through Saturday, 7am to 2 pm and 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm), Macelleria Anzuini e Massi, since 1938 (Via dei Ner i 84/r, Tuesday through Saturday 7.30 am to 1.30 pm and 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm), Macelleria Caselli, an old-style shop (Via Romana 61, Monday through Saturday, 8 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm). GREENGROCERS. Florence is not in the countr yside , but the countr yside is only a ten-minute dr ive away from downtown Florence . Which is the reason why greengrocer s are supplied daily with fresh and seasonal produce . Bottega della Frutta, a centur y old (Via dei Feder ighi 31, Monday through Saturday 8.30 am to 7.30 pm), Mauro Frutta, locally-sourced delicacies (Via dei Cerchi 16/r, Monday through Saturday 7 am to 7.30 pm), Alessandro Vettori meets the requests of the most demanding customer s (Bor go San Jacopo 63/r, Monday through Saturday 7 am to 9 pm). FISH SHOPS. Florence is just a onehour dr ive from Viareggio and Livor no. That explains why freshly-caught fish from the Tyr rhenian Sea ar r ives daily (var iety and quantity depending on the catch of the over night fishing),
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della
F rutta
in addition to fresh fish from inter national sources. Of cour se , a reliable and tr ustwor thy fishmonger will always tell you when it’s best to buy local. Pescheria Massimo Montini (Bor go Ognissanti, 101/r, Tuesday through Fr iday 8 am to 3 pm) and Pescheria Tirrena (Via dei Cerchi 20, Monday through Saturday, 8 am to 2 pm). CIVAIOLI. The word is Italian, they say, but not all Italians know it. In other words, a typical shop where you can find dr ied legumes and gr ains. The civaiolo is definitely a vintage categor y, a wor thwhile destination for gour mands and those in search of fine and r are foods. A go-to shop if, for instance , you’re looking for dr ied ker nels of cor n to make homemade popcor n, or gr ains, to make soup the way your gr andmother did. In Florence , the civaiolo has been resisting all moder nization attempts and is a ver itable institution. Civaie Menchini, since 1892 (Via della Spada 52/r, Monday through Saturday, 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm), Il Civaiolo, inside Palazzo Ginor i (Via Taddea 5, Monday through Fr iday, 8 am to 7.30 pm, on Saturdays 8 am to 1.30 pm).
F rom above clockwise : M acelleria A nzuini e M assi , F orno B ecagli , M acelleria C aselli , I l C ivaiolo
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T he B r u nel factor F ace
to
F ace
with the
T ext T eresa F avi - P hoto S ofie D elauw
L ungarno C ollection ’ s E xecutive C hef
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Food
collection
F rom
left : interior of the
B orgo S an J acopo
restaurant and some dishes by
P eter B runel
Y oung , I talian
C urious and art , jazz music
respectful of tradition .
Bolzano and the Etoile Academy of Chioggia, to the V illa Cimbrone in Ravello. At the age of twenty-eight, he unexpectedly ear ned his fir st Michelin star at the V illa Negr i in Riva del Garda. When he tur ned thir ty, he decided to take a break to devote his ener gy to two per sonal projects: star ting a family and wor king on product research and
development progr ams. In those year s, he wor ked as a consultant and deepened his knowledge and skill by tr aining in Fr ance , at Michelin-star red restaur ants. His culinar y style is a skillful mix of tr adition and innovation. His cuisine is sophisticated and creative . He uses uncommon and fine
He
Peter Br unel comes across as a kind and decent young man with a spotless reputation, someone who could sympathize even with his wor st enemy, supposing that he has one . But the moment he star ts talking about food, cooking methods, ingredients and extr actions, about things that seem to have more to do with science than with anything culinar y, his eyes star t glowing passionately. He has been at the helm of the three restaur ants owned by the Fer r agamo family’s hotel group, Bor go San Jacopo, Caffè dell’Oro and Fusion Bar & Restaur ant, since summer 2014. Let’s get to know him better. Bor n in 1975 in the Fassa Valley, Peter began wor king, like most kids his age , as “assistant of the assistant chef ” at local hotels. After visiting a hotel management school, he gained his fir st and decisive wor king exper iences: from the Laur in in
and international .
loves
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and innovational cuisine
Food
collection
F rom
left :
P otato S paghetti , L ofoten M emory , P anzanella . I n the middle : the B orgo S an J acopo ’ s A rno river and P onte V ecchio
table in summertime , on the balcony with view of the
ingredients from all over the wor ld, yet he never looses sight of local tr aditions. We had the pleasure to meet him sitting around an elegant table at the Bor go San Jacopo restaur ant, while the staff fluttered about us like a flock of angels, car r ying snow-white tablecloths, plates and glasses, to set the tables for dinner. The sun was still high and the Ar no r iver was like a shiny blade cutting through the lar ge window of the dining room over looking Florence’s r iver…. What are the main ingredients of your signature style? Thorough food knowledge and passion for authentic taste . And the needed intuition to tr ansfor m your vision into a dish. Your favorite ingredients? Potato, trout and r ice . Your signature dish? Spaghetti di Patate, Potato Spaghetti, a complex dish prepared by using r aw potatoes cooked in br ine and kept at a stable temper ature to stabilize the starch. The potato is then shaped into thin spaghetti which are sautéed and ser ved with
a Paolo Par isi egg zabaglione and a Cinta Senese lard sauce . What is your source of inspiration? Constant study and research, from or ganic chemistr y to mathematics, from ar t to anthropology. Which translated into a dish means? My trout cast in beeswax, for instance, is inspired by an ancient vacuum-packed preser vation technique based on the use of container s sealed with beeswax. I place the trout in a container smeared with beeswax after it has under gone a refinement process in honey. This way I created a successful, well-balanced, yet unusual dish. Any distinguishing feature? The spoon. Not only is it man’s most ancient feeding tool, but it also allows guests to appreciate my dishes in their entirety, just like I conceived them. Natur ally, only when the cour se allows for the use of a spoon…. How do you apply your culinar y philosophy to the three Lungarno Collection restaurants? My passion for fusion is expressed
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most - coveted
at the Fusion Bar & Restaur ant, my bistro-style cuisine at the Caffè dell’Oro, featur ing the great Italian classics. Here at the Bor go San Jacopo restaur ant, I have the oppor tunity to share my gour met cuisine philosophy. Three different and yet complementar y styles. A ver y exciting challenge . Highlights? Once a month, until Januar y 2016, we are welcoming a Michelin star red chef at the Bor go San Jacopo restaur ant, who will prepare a four-cour se menu assisted by myself, my dear fr iend and famous pastr y chef Loretta Fanella, and two jour nalists and culinar y exper ts. The leading theme of each event is “Spoon”, also a tr ibute to the cur rent ar t installation in Vicolo dell’Oro, Spoon – I eat ear th, by ar tist and designer Simone D’Aur ia, who shares my passion for the spoon. The ebullient Br unel never tires of talking about his visions, his extr aordinar y discover ies and his plans for the future . But time presses and the angels in their cr isp white unifor ms claim him back.
Chef al Cucchiaio...
At the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant, “Spoon” inspired events with Michelin-starred chefs and journalists in the kitchen Until Januar y 2016, the Lungar no Collection’s gour met restaur ant hosts an exciting event: a 4-cour se menu created by a Michelin-star red chef in the Bor go San Jacopo restaur ant’s kitchen alongside house chef Peter Br unel, house pastr y chef Loretta Fanella and two jour nalists and culinar y exper ts. The spoon is the protagonist of each dinner event
April 13 Chef Claudio e Anna Vicina Ristor ante Casa Vicina di Tor ino (1 Michelin Star) May 11 Guest Chef Enr ico Bar tolini Devero Ristor ante , Cavenago di Br ianza (2 Michelin Star s) June 8 Guest Chef Agostino Jacobucci I Por tici, Bologna (1 Michelin Star) July 13 Guest Chef Thomas Kavcic Dvorec Zemono, Vipava - Slovenia (1 Michelin Star) August 3 Guest Chef Oliver Glowig Ristor ante Oliver Glowig, Roma (1 Michelin Star) September 14 Guest Chef Nadia Santini Dal Pescatore , Canneto sull’Olio, Mantova (3 Michelin Star s) October 12 Guest Chef Giancar lo Perbellini Isola Rizza - Verona (2 Michelin Star s) November 9 Guest Chef Pino Cuttaia Madia di Licata - Agr igento (2 Michelin Star s) November 30 Guest Chef Nino di Costanzo Mosaico, Ischia (2 Michelin Star s) January 11 Guest Chef Josean Mar tinez Alija Ner ua- Guggenheim Museum Bilbao Spagna (1 Michelin Star)
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Food
collection
On
t h i s a n d t h e f o l low i n g pag e a r e s o m e d e s s e rt s p r e pa r e d b y
at t h e
B o rg o S a n J ac o p o
L o r e t ta F a n e l l a ( i n
the picture in the middle)
r e s tau r a n t
The wonderful wor ld of… Loretta Fanella, the “sweet touch” of the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant Loretta Fanella is an inter nationally-renowned pastr y chef who has wor ked with wor ldfamous chefs, including Alber t Adr ia, before landing in Tuscany at the Lungar no Collection’s Borgo San Jacopo gour met restaur ant, where she takes care of the desser t menu, “upon invitation” of Peter Br unel, the Lungar no Collection’s Executive Chef. Desser ts are her passion. A passion that began unexpectedly at the age of thir teen, when Loretta, a blond and petite gir l, walked into the garden of her family house in Fiuggi, with a delicious sur pr ise bir thday cake for her mother. After gr aduating from school, she star ted wor king at the Antica Pesa restaur ant in Verona. A fundamental exper ience , as she her self says: “I was eighteen year s old and I was supposed to stay for a three-month tr aining
per iod. One day, the pastr y chef left and the owner s asked me to step in”. In 2001, she was given the oppor tunity of attending a specialized pastr y chef college in Brescia. “In a few months’ time , I had the chance to meet the best Italian and foreign chefs”, Loretta continues. Here she also met a ver y young Carlo Cracco, who offered her the position as pastr y chef at his new Cr acco Peck restaur ant. At the time , the young Loretta didn’t know that more oppor tunities were yet to come . When tr aining dur ing her holidays in Spain at the Ferran and Alber t Adria’s elBulli restaur ant, the two brother s asked her to stay on after only fifteen days. They treated her as a daughter and she remained with them for four year s. “That is where I was introduced into a wor ld of ongoing exper imentation with techniques, different flavor s and pair ings,
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new textures and cooking temper atures, products and processing methods that I had never seen before . Sur rounded by siphons, mixor s, gelatinizing agents and spher ification techniques, I fir st realized that I could and should go beyond my comfor t zone to create something different”. Those were also the year s when a “nouveau” desser t concept was introduced to Italy. Here , the desser t was still considered to be the least interesting cour se on the menu, while in Spain creative pastr ymaking was already at the center of attention. “At the Bor go San Jacopo restaur ant, I created a tr uly special desser t menu. The five delicacies say a lot about me , my style , my vision”, says the Pastr y Chef. Waiting for Spr ing, A Sweet Star t and As V iolet as a V iolet are only a few of the desser ts, or r ather, of the stor ies offered by Loretta.
Food & Beverage
collection
N ikke i s t yl e
Japanese cuisine meets Peru. At F lorence’s trendiest wine bar T e x t T e r e s a F av i P h oto S o f i e D e l au w
90
Food & Beverage
collection
A colourful S econd from
and international culinary world featuring beautiful , light and sophisticated dishes and original cocktails left :
G ilberto V annini
T he
latest trend in fusion cuisine lands at
It is the latest gastronomic trend sweeping Europe: the combination of Japanese cooking techniques and Per uvian ingredients, known as Nikkei cuisine . A culinar y culture dating back to the late 1800s, which emer ged from the fir st Japanese immigr ants to Per u having to use the ingredients of the indigenous Per uvians. Nikkei cuisine has since taken on its own per sonality and in addition to being savored by the Per uvians, it is enjoying immense popular ity across the globe with both Europeans and Asians. This multicultur al and inter national cuisine is now available at The Fusion Bar & Restaurant, which has developed a solid reputation for setting the bar with its fusionor iented menus. Inspired by the ver satile executive chef of the Lungar no Collection, Peter Brunel, the Fusion Bar & Restaur ant’s resident chef, Gilberto Vannini, embr aced the challenge enthusiastically. Vannini relies on year s of exper ience in combining Japanese cuisine and Mediter r anean
T he F usion B ar and R estaurant . W ith the help of P eter B runel and G ilberto V annini
and European flavour s: maki with or ange , anchovies and breadcr umbs, Chianina beef or glazed foie gr as sushi are but a few examples of his delicious creations. The Fusion Bar & Restaur ant’s menu includes a full Nikkei cuisine section: Ceviche (amberjack or sea bass mar inated in leche de tigre, a mixture of lemon, chili and spices), Nikkei Soup
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(chicken, pr awns and por k in chicken stock), Causa (sushi with yellow, white and pur ple potato purĂŠe instead of r ice), Cochinillo (glazed por k with potatoes au gr atin) and Tonno (tuna tempur a with quinoa salad and a sweet-and-sour sauce from passion fr uit, mango and cane sugar). All musttr ies of the ultimate fusion cuisine exper ience!
tips What’s your preference? Are you the Hotel Lungarno or the Continentale type? Are you more attracted to the Gallery Hotel Art or the Portrait? What’s your style? Are you the classic, cool or creative kind? Does style rank high among your priorities? Do you travel with family or are you a confirmed single? Take our personality test and find out. Choose the things to do and places to see in Rome and Florence according to your profile.
Street View
Creative tips
Gallery Hotel Art Types
collection
3
1
2
morning
Visionari is a must-stop for eyeglass lover s. Also in the Oltrarno area,
Retro-style fur nishing, trendy details.
just steps away from Ponte Vecchio, discover all kinds of leather accessories
sandwiches and homemade cakes.
at the Monaco Metropolitano (6) shop.
Welcome to Amblè, just steps away
Break
from the Galler y Hotel Ar t, in the
Piazza della Passera is the right place to
tiny Piazzetta dei Del Bene .
treat your self to a break away from the
Sport
downtown crowds. Caffè degli Artigiani
The higher you go, the more you
(4) offer s a shabby chic atmosphere,
will love this r unning path. Take the
homemade cakes and ice-cream. We
shor tcut from San Niccolò up to the
recommend you tr y the Buontalenti (3)
hilly Pian dei Giullari area.
ice-cream flavor.
Lunch
Cocktails
Near the Uffizi Galler y, at the Buca
Back at the Gallery Hotel Art, bar tender
dell’Orafo (2), the ar tichoke tar t
Kareem Bennet will amaze you with his
and the chine of por k with potatoes
wonderful cocktail creations.
are among the must-tr y dishes. Add the Mercato Centrale (5) at San Lorenzo to your lunch venue list to find the best of Tuscan street food.
afternoon
6
exclusive limited-edition pieces, I
Breakfast
Or ganic fr uit juices, delicious
5
4
night Dinner
The Fusion Bar & Restaurant has always been a place of culinar y
Art
experimentation. Tr y its Nikkei cuisine:
Six thousand pieces and r ightly
an unforgettable fusion of Per uvian
considered to be Italy’s leading fashion
ingredients and Japanese flavor s.
histor y museum and one of the most
Nightlife
impor tant in the wor ld. Welcome to
For the most glamorous club on
Palazzo Pitti’s Costume Galler y (1).
the Florentine nightlife scene and a
Shopping
cosmopolitan atmosphere go to Blume
With its innovative brands and
Club, just off Piazza Santa Croce .
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Hip T ips
3
1
2
4
morning
tea time
Art
outdoor setting in the Santo Spirito
Enjoy a mor ning of ar t in Florence .
neighborhood. Their Firenze blend,
Palazzo Strozzi offer s inter national
containing six teas, makes for a special
exhibitions throughout the year.
gift from Florence .
Contempor ar y ar t lover s fancy the
Relaxation
Strozzina Galler y, located in the
At Forte Belvedere, utmost
under str ucture of the palazzo.
contemporar y ar t blends in with Tuscan
Have tea in the lovely La Via del Tè (6)
landscape and a breathtaking view of More than just sandwiches: Ino’s panini Florence . Don’t miss the solo exhibition are tr ue gour met creations. Located by sculptor Antony Gormley (5) and Lunch
between the Uffizi Galler y and Ponte
Vecchio, Alessandro Fr assica’s bottega is known for using the finest local ingredients available . Tr uffle fans have to visit the Savini Tartufi cor ner inside the Mercato Centr ale for a plate of tagliolini spr inkled with tr uffle shavings (2). Delicious, adjusted to the season and excellent for lunch.
when it’s time for a break, choose your favorite Spa Ritual at the holistic White
5
Iris Beauty Spa by Comfort Zone (3), at Hotel Continentale . Happy Hour The rooftop Terrazza of the Continentale Hotel (1) offer s one of the city’s best views of Ponte Vecchio and excellent drinks.
afternoon night Shopping
Dinner
When it comes to special beauty
The Pescatore Casa di Cucina (4),
products, Florence is second
in Piazza del Car mine , is the go-to
to none . If you are looking for
restaur ant if you’re in the mood for
a perfume that reflects your
exquisite fish and the most unique
per sonality and style , head
setting: a deconsecr ated Anglican
str aight to Lorenzo Villoresi,
church whose restyling has been
at 14 Via de’ Bardi.
cur ated by Italian architect Italo Rota.
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6
hotel continentale Types
collection
Classic T ips
Hotel Lungarno Types
collection
3
1
2
4
morning afternoon Breakfast
Shopping
Florence’s most delicious
Devote the after noon to shopping in croissants are found at Dolcissima, authentic Oltrarno cr aft shops that in Via Maggio. create one-of-a-kind pieces. For Art
If you are an ar t lover, you will cer tainly book a pr ivate visit to the Uffizi Galler y to see the Inamovibili exhibition (unmovable master pieces), the 28 most 5
representative wor ks of ar t of one of the wor ld’s major museums (1, 6). Once you’re there , do not miss
Galleria Romanelli’s (7) spectacular plaster s, head to the San Frediano.
night Culture
the digital wor k created by Felice
Florence’s year ly Maggio Musicale
Limosani and nar r ated by Andrea
Fiorentino Orchestr a at the Opera
Bocelli, in Palazzo Vecchio’s Sala
di Firenze theatre (3) features a r ich
Experience Florence boasts the oldest cooking school in Tuscany, the Cordon Bleu Culinar y Ar t School (2) at Palazzo PianciatichiXimenes, which this year celebr ates its 30th anniver sar y. Lunch We suggest a tr aditional Florentine tr attor ia like Coco Lezzone (5), in Via del Par ioncino 7
San Niccolò neighborhood and for
the chance to see Magnificent,
d’Arme (until October 31). 6
Alessandro Dari’s jewelr y visit the
progr am of symphonic music and oper a perfor mances. Download the Oper a di Firenze’s events calendar and have our concier ge book your front-row seat. Dinner Chef Peter Br unel enchants with his creations at the Borgo San Jacopo restaur ant (4). Regional Italian dishes with a moder n twist, uncompromising attention to
26r, a favor ite with trendy
ingredients and a touch of diver se
Florentines.
culinar y tr aditions.
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Ex straordinar y T ips
3
1
2
morning afternoon Breakfast
Fashion
Nestled at the entrance of the Por trait
Elegance and cr aftsmanship. Two
Firenze lies the Caffè dell’Oro (3), a living room with a delightful kitchen. Star t your day with a freshly prepared gourmet breakfast and the most breathtaking view of Ponte Vecchio. Art Exhibiting at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum til April 3, 2016 A Place and the City (5), recounting the histor y of the Palazzo Spini Feroni and its role as City Hall during Florence’s tenure as Italy’s capital for which 2015 mar ks its 150th anniver sar y. Located in Via dei Ser r agli and more a moder n temple of taste r ather than a cooking school: Bar thel, the wellknown inter ior design atelier, hosts classes, food
promises that are at the hear t of the wor ld’s most exclusive boutiques in Florence’s “fashion tr iangle”: Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via Strozzi and Piazza della Signoria. Discover also Richard Ginori’s (2) latest store in Via dei Rondinelli, a par adise for tr aditional chinaware lover s, and the Leica Store in Vicolo dell’Oro, your tr aveling companion through the hi-tech
5
photogr aphy wor ld. Gardens Ten hectares of beautiful gardens in
Experience
tasting
4
photogr aphy
and table design cour ses under the name Desinare (4). Lunch One simple principle guides this sophisticated restaurant in the San Niccolò neighborhood: divine dishes created with local ingredients ser ved
downtown Florence . Enclosed within the imposing Palazzo Pitti and For te Belvedere’s r ampar ts, the Boboli Gardens (1) are the go-to place for a lovely after noon in the open.
night Dinner
No introduction is needed for the palazzo at number 87 in Via Ghibellina. It has become an icon
in a relaxing yet luxurious atmosphere .
of gour met dining all over the
Bottega del Buon Caffè (6), a new
wor ld: the three-Michelin-star red
Michelin-starred restaurant.
Enoteca Pinchiorri.
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6
Portrait Firenze Types
collection
Stylish T ips
portrait Roma types
collection
3
1
2
morning Art
Devote the mor ning to ar t. Chagall’s Love & Life (4) features
the open-air set of many films, including Academy-Award winner The Great Beauty (3) by Paolo Sor rentino. Crown the day with a tour of the Roman Castles.
inspir ation, Bella Rosenfeld. Showing
night
at Bramante’s Cloister, in Via
Dinner
150 dr awings, paintings and pr ints dedicated to the ar tist’s love of 5
4
his wife and ever lasting source of
Arco della Pace 5, till July 26 (2). Alter natively, visit the impressive per manent Domus Romane exhibition at Palazzo Valentini (Via
Casa Coppelle (1) is the city’s latest hot spot (Piazza delle Coppelle 49): elegant but unpretentious and
IV Novembre). The under ground
welcoming at the same time . A fusion
ar tistic her itage .
sourced ingredients. Delicious
Lunch
homemade bread, cakes and
For lunch we recommend Da
pr ime meat cuts. We also recommend
excavations at this archaeological site of tr aditional Italian and French cuisine , using only the finest locally are par t of the city’s histor ical and
Francesco, a lovely tr attor ia near Campo de’ Fior i (5) with fr iendly 6
ser vice and authentic Roman cuisine (Piazza del Fico 29).
afternoon Art Reser ve a car and head to the
7
Osteria di Monteverde , an excellent restaur ant in a residential area, just outside of the histor ic center. Nightlife Dance into the night at one of the city’s most exclusive clubs: La Cabala. Located on the second floor of a fifteenth-centur y building, decor ated with old chandelier s,
Aqueduct Park (6), located at the
brocades and mir ror s, and a great
Regional Par k of Appia Antica and
place for celebr ity spotting.
98
ph. Laziz Hamani
ph. Lorenzo Agius
Giampiero Bodino TESTIMONY TO THE ITALIAN SPIRIT
TESTIMONE DI ITALIANITÀ
The creativity of Giampiero Bodino, artist and designer of unique jewellery, holds a dialogue with the world – an increasingly global world even as far as luxury goods are concerned – but its origins lie in one precise part of that world: Italy. The country in which he was born and where he has chosen to remain and to locate the headquarters of his Maison of High Jewellery: at the beautiful Villa Mozart in Milan. It is the only place where his creations can be found. They are not on display in the showcases of spaces that look much the same everywhere. They cannot be bought online. For the basic concept of his philosophy is to give objects back their value as experiences, holding an ideal conversation with those who would like to make those objects their own and spurning the logic of mass production. Out of this comes a completely new connection between the client, his or her desires and the person who will fulfil them. A very modern relationship but one that has parallels with the bond that was forged in the Renaissance between the master craftsmen, in their workshops, and their patrons. In the Italian language, the word arte has the same root as the word for crafts and craftsmanship, artigianato, something that is also true of the English word ‘artisan’. And the work of the Turinese Bodino is a testimony to this methodological legacy, in which technique goes hand in hand with inspiration. Nor is this all: his vision draws on the works, the colours, the whole heritage of expression preserved in his native land. It is only in this way that it is possible today to create something authentic and personal that opens up new cultural horizons. The result? The dream of every guest at Bodino’s Villa Mozart is turned into a reality that will pertain to his or her own, highly individual approach to life.
La creatività di Giampiero Bodino, artista e designer di gioielli unici, dialoga con il mondo - un mondo sempre più globale anche per quello che riguarda i beni di lusso - ma ha le sue origini in una geografia precisa: l’Italia. Il paese in cui è nato e dove ha scelto di rimanere per stabilire la sede della sua Maison d’Alta Gioielleria: a Milano, nella bellissima Villa Mozart. Le sue creazioni si trovano solo qui, non sono esposte nelle vetrine di spazi ovunque identici, non possono essere acquisite online. Perché il concetto base della sua filosofia è restituire valore esperienziale agli oggetti, creando un ideale colloquio con chi quegli oggetti vuole farli propri, rifuggendo dalle logiche della produzione seriale. Si ridisegna un’inedita connessione tra il committente, i suoi desideri e chi li realizzerà. Una modernissima relazione che riproduce un rapporto analogo a quello che nel Rinascimento legava i Grandi Maestri, al lavoro nelle loro botteghe, ai loro mecenati. Nella lingua italiana, la parola “arte” ha la stessa radice di “artigianato” e di questa eredità metodologica, dove la tecnica è complice dell’estro, il torinese Bodino si fa testimone e interprete. Non solo: la sua visione si nutre delle opere, dei colori, dell’intero patrimonio espressivo custodito nella sua patria. Solo così oggi è possibile elaborare qualcosa di autentico e personale che dischiuda nuove prospettive culturali. Il risultato? Il sogno di ogni ospite della Maison Bodino si trasforma in una realtà che apparterrà al proprio, individualissimo progetto di vita.
CAPRI Places des Fleurs CAPRI Piazzetta Cerio , 14 - 80073
FIRenze Mobile +39 339 6685207 - 329 7160718 www.caprifleurs.com - info@caprifleurs.com
Villa Mozart - Via Mozart 9, Milano www.giampierobodino.com
Via del Purgatorio, 18 r - 50121
collection
collection The Lungarno Collection Magazine
friends Alexander Sladkovsky Peppe Servillo Arturo Galansino itineraries Dante Alighieri Streets of Florence Secret Rome Florence by Stefania Ricci
N.5 I ssue 2015 - 2016
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Giuseppe di San Giuliano Davide Rampello Spoon at the Gallery
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