T
MAÎTRE DE BAR
he dialogue could be straight from a slapstick scene... The barman, Francesco Biagini, is asked: “How many rums do you have?” “Ninety rooms, sir,” he replies. 90? Really? Eventually, it’s established that there are 11 types of rum in the bar of the Palace, where 90 rooms are available for hire. Also available are 25 different kinds of cigar, which brings us to the topic at hand. Not every rum suits every cigar, despite the fact that they make for a perfect twosome. So, let’s start with the rum: There are two types ― industrial rum, made from molasses, and the agriculturally produced “rhum agricole”, which is distilled from freshly pressed sugar cane syrup. The latter only accounts for around three percent of total production worldwide. In Cuba, industrial rum, also referred to as traditional rum, is widely preferred and typically has a pale or golden brown colour. Among the Cuban rums, Francesco recommends the “Matusalem Gran Reserva 15 Años”. Similarly fine distillates come from Guatemala, including the famous “Zacapa Gran Reserva Especial XO”, which is stored in old sherry barrels. An equally worthy representative is the “Bermudez Aniversario 1852” produced in the Dominican Republic ― this, incidentally, is also senior partner Ernst Andrea Scherz’s favourite.
“Rum is experiencing a real comeback. It is gradually replacing cognac and grappa as the no. 1 after-dinner drink,” Francesco tells me. Served in a large brandy glass, it requires time to develop its full aroma. “Fifteen minutes are the absolute minimum. Every rum has its own pace. Room temperature, or better still, body temperature, is definitely desirable.” And speaking of rituals: A fitting cigar is a must, of course. Francesco’s choice falls on three classic smokes: Cohiba Maduro 5, Hoyo de Monterrey and the Davidoff Special “R”. Again, a leisurely approach is required ― touch, pat, brush, smell, listen. The manner in which a cigar should be handled is almost a little erotic, and the same applies to lighting it. All the Palace’s bar professionals will provide this service on request. “But smoking a good cigar is like driving a nice car. If you love beautiful cars, you’d much rather have your hands on the wheel,” Francesco grins. In any case, he’s not missing out, as he has recently founded a smokers’ club with his colleagues Mario and Paolo. (rw) THE THREE DREAM COUPLES: Matusalem Gran Reserva 15 Años + Cohiba Maduro 5 Zacapa Gran Reserva Especial XO + Hoyo de Monterrey Bermudez Aniversario 1852 + Davidoff Special «R»
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