26 Around Korea
On the Frontline: The DMZ
Gwangju News, August 2022
gwangjunewsgic.com
TRAVEL
By Ellie Goodwin WHAT IS THE DMZ? In short, the DMZ (Demilitarization Zone) separates North and South Korea. Electrified fencing and landmines flank both sides as well as armed soldiers poised for war. To better understand what brought about the creation of the DMZ, here’s a crude summary of seven decades worth of history in a single paragraph. Drawn up in 1945, the 38th Parallel was intended to be a temporary division of Korea, north of which Soviet forces would accept a Japanese surrender, with U.S. forces doing the same on the south side. It was hoped that, now liberated, Korea would be ready for self-rule after a time, but the Cold War turned a temporary division into a fixed one. The U.S.-backed Syngman Rhee, and the Soviets turned to Kim IlSung. The two men established separate republics: the Republic of Korea (South Korea) and the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (North Korea). In 1950, after years of conflicts along the border, North Korea launched a surprise invasion that triggered the Korean War. The UN intervened and sent a U.S.-led force to protect the South, driving the North Koreans back to around the 38th Parallel. Soviet troops had long since withdrawn by this point, but aid came to North Korea from China. The Chinese pushed the U.S. forces back to below the 38th Parallel, and a national emergency was declared by President Truman, who feared a third world war. However, by 1951, the fighting had stabilized and truce talks began. Fast forward to 1953: The signing of the an truce between the North Korean and U.S. forces brought an end to the fighting and the establishment of the DMZ. WHY VISIT THE DMZ? A trip to the DMZ is a surreal one. It is noted for
2022�08��.indd 26
being one of the most volatile regions in the world but is, simultaneously, a popular tourist attraction. Personally, I cannot think of many other places in the world that have such knife-edge tensions but can still be visited by ordinary civilians. This combination alone makes the whole experience truly unique and worth the visit. The only way to visit the DMZ is with a guided tour. Normally, I would turn my nose up at this kind of experience, thinking that they’re a money trap, but in regards to the DMZ, I could not have been more wrong. The informative tours are tailored to both history buffs and those interested in learning more about the separation of Korea. My guide’s retelling of the DMZ’s tension-filled past coupled with personal stories of friends who defected from North Korea gave me a deep appreciation for the country’s painful history, the kind that cannot be found in reading a book or watching a documentary. I’ll have to use the exhausted (but accurate) cliché in this instance: history was “brought to life.” And for a decent price. A few things to bear in mind: Firstly, during my visit, some parts of the tour were not open to visitors, though this may have changed at the time of writing, depending on political tensions. Rather than list all of the sights you may visit on a tension-free day, I’ve given a breakdown of the ones I was permitted to visit. Secondly, what you’ll visit depends on the tour package you buy. Needless to say, more is seen on a full-day package than on a half-day tour. THE SITES The Joint Security Area (JSA) Occupied by the South Korean and U.S. military, the JSA is a territory within the DMZ. Located in
2022-07-26 �� 3:50:23
