Are you charging enough?
AUTUMN 2019
| hji.co.uk/men
Apollo 2 Icon with Classic heelrest: head to heel forever iconic.
AUTUMN 2019
CONTENTS
W
e have exciting news to share – Modern Barber has become the latest addition to our company M Squared Media’s portfolio. Owners of HJ, Salon International and the British Hairdressing Awards, M Squared Media will continue to champion UK barbering and build on Modern Barber’s success. Rachel Gould will remain as Editorial Director of Modern Barber and HJ Men will continue providing you with content through our online, print and social channels. I’m thrilled to work with Rachel to highlight the talent in the industry. Here’s to an exciting future! But back to the issue… Our main feature investigates a taboo subject – how much you charge. Curious to find out what UK businesses are charging? Turn to page 11 now – it’s illuminating stuff.
Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7360 Managing Director Mark Moloney Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7363
Charlotte Grant-West Editor HJ Men
Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7369
NEWS 5 Find out how many men are colouring their hair and the line-up for the new Modern Barber stage at Salon International 2019
Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7377 Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7366
FEATURES
Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7373
Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk 0203 841 7376
ALTER EGO
Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7367
28
Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk 020 7351 0536
9 An interview with LGBTQ+-friendly Open Barbers 11 Higher or lower – how should you set your prices? 14 The Big Debate: For and against serving alcohol 15 Deep Dive: Why Jacks of London has thrived for 25 years
INTERIORS 16 Shepherds brings Scandinavian style to Birmingham city centre
Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk 020 3728 9062
FASHION
Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk 0207 351 0536
18 Tony Haresign: Rockin’ hair 20 Bons Men’s Hair: Subculture style 23 Areté: Rebels with a cause 25 Barber Masters Rodelas Team: Men of distinction 28 Alter Ego: Fairytale charm 30 David Soriano: Modern classics
Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk 020 7351 0536 www.hji.co.uk M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza 535 Kings Road, London SW10 0SZ
PRODUCTS 33 The latest launches to try now
23
ARETÉ
Hair: Barber Masters Rodelas Team Make-up: Rodelas Photography: Javier Ávila
INTERVIEW 34 Barber Backchat with Ky Wilson AUTUMN 2019 / 3
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NEWS
Modern Barber Joins The HJ Group
THE TOP THREE MENS’ FASHION WEEK SS20 TRENDS
M
odern Barber has joined M Squared Media, the owner of the best-in-class industry trade shows, events and publishing platforms, including HJ, Salon International, the British Hairdressing Awards and Professional Beauty. Modern Barber’s editorial director Rachel Gould says: “My ability to champion UK barbering and build on the early success of Modern Barber is now leveraged and supported by the outstanding experience and resources of M Squared Media.” Jayne Lewis-Orr, M Squared Media’s executive director adds: “The brand has great heritage and collectively we can further its reach across print, online, social and face-to-face events to help grow and develop the professional market.”
GRAPHIC BUZZCUT With bold colour placement the buzzcuts at Iceberg, created by John Vial for Revlon Professional, put a fresh spin on a classic cut.
BRITAIN’S BEST SHAVE ENTRIES OPEN FOR 2020 Britain’s Best Shave is back for a sixth year and the search to crown the 2020 champion at HJ Live London in March 2020 has started. Since its inception in 2013, the British Barbering Association’s (BBA) Britain’s Best Shave competition, sponsored by The Bluebeards Revenge, has invited barbers to demonstrate their skills with a cut-throat razor in the infamous BBA boxing ring. Barbers currently practicing their trade in Britain are encouraged to enter the heats. To enter go to bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/bestshave2020/
SOFT CURLS The loose waves from Band of Outsiders were created by Toni & Guy’s artistic director Dexter Dapper Johnson. This summery style is sure to be a client hit.
MEN ARE REACHING FOR THE DYE Men are colouring their hair more frequently, according to the latest research from Mintel. The market intelligence agency’s Hair Colourants report found that more 16-24 year-old men are opting to dye their hair at home than ever before. Statistics show that 46% of this age
group used hair colour in 2019, compared to 38% of men in 2018. This survey focused on at-home hair colourants, rather than in-salon services, but it shows there is a growing demand for male colour and now is the time to promote your salon’s professional colour services to male clients.
LOCKS N’ PONYTAILS Schwarzkopf Professional collaborated with Federico Ghezzi from Saint Luke Artists for the Bethany Williams show to create these soft dreadlocks.
AUTUMN 2019 / 5
NEWS
The Men’s Stage at Salon International
NEW BARBERSHOP OPENINGS These cool businesses recently opened their doors
The Modern Barber stage (previously the HJ Men stage) at Salon International 2019 will showcase the best of men’s hairdressing and barbering to leave the audience informed, educated and entertained. Salon International takes place from Saturday 5 October to Monday 7 October. Book tickets at salonshow.co.uk/ticketprices
SUNDAY 6 OCTOBER
MONDAY 7 OCTOBER
11:30 OB Barbers 12:00 Vivienne Howe 12:30 Gould Barbers 13:00 Dexter Johnson and Luke Harris 13:30 Wez Jones 14:00 Johnny Baba 14:30 Baldy 15:00 Paddy Corrigan 15:30 Charlotte Roberts 16:00 Luke Dolan
10:30 Off Cut 11:00 Ruffians 11:30 Artemens 12:00 Jacks of London 12:30 Justin Carr and Tom Baxter with Myles Lewis as compere 13:00 Joe Mills and the Joe and Co team 13:30 Kevin Luchmun 14:00 Hayden Cassidy 14:30 Ky Wilson 15:00 Tony Haresign with Allan Stone 15:30 Kieron The Barber and John Mosley 16:00 Andrew Smith Artistic Team 16:30 Faz Malik and US Barber Team
10:30 The Wild Hare 11:00 Jarred Liddington 11:30 Mike Taylor 12:00 British Female Barber Association 12:30 James Beaumont 13:00 Myles Lewis and Cal Newsome 13:30 Manifesto 14:00 Menspire 14:30 Murdock London 15:00 Ross Charles 15:30 Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms
*
Timetable is subject to change
SATURDAY 5 OCTOBER
The Hall of Fame Competition is Back
Luke Dolan has opened a new barbershop in Stanmore, London. The store features a grooming spa and will offer bespoke cuts in a comfortable and cool environment.
OB Barbers, based in Jesmond Vale, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, has opened its second shop. It features a tattoo studio, as well as traditional barber services all under one roof.
T
he British Barbers’ Association (BBA) has announced that its Hall of Fame competition is back for 2019. Launched in 2016, the annual competition provides a platform to showcase the best creative talent in mens’ hairdressing and barbering. Housed on the BBA website as a gallery, two winners will be selected from over 250 photographic entrants each month in two categories – the Peoples’ Choice (the entrant with the most votes) and the Judges’ Choice (chosen by the BBA judges team). The winners will receive a Hall of Fame plaque and a collection of products from the BBA’s grooming range. They will also be invited to take part in 6 / AUTUMN 2019
a live photoshoot at Salon International with photographer Tim Collins. Head to britishbarbers.co.uk for more details.
Manifesto is a minimalist modern men’s grooming mecca making a mark in Coal Drops Yard – a new luxury retail area situated in Kings Cross, London.
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INSIGHT
OPEN-DOOR POLICY HJ Men speaks to Open Barbers about the issues the LGBTQ+ community might encounter in a barbershop and how you can help
O
pen Barbers in North London, is exactly as the name suggests – open. Open to all people and all genders (including those who don’t identify with a gender). HJ Men speaks to the founder Greygory to find out more... How do you want your clients to feel when they visit Open Barbers? It’s really important to us that our clients feel actively welcomed, listened to, validated, comfortable and free from gendered or any other assumptions. If you could only offer one piece of advice to barbershops and salons what would that be? It’s important to listen to people and recognise that clients are the experts of their own identity and appearance. In your experience how has the barbering industry responded to LGBTQ+ clients? The anecdotes we hear from clients on their previous experiences can be troubling. Outmoded assumptions include the idea that women have long hair and men have short hair and women with short hair need to have wispy long bits and
should dye their hair to avoid ‘looking like a lesbian’ (even if they are). I’ve heard that women, non-binary people and trans men are being charged higher ‘women’s’ prices for a masculine haircut or basically being denied services in barbershops. I’ve heard that women’s hair is harder to cut (even though barbers are very happy to cut my hair and as a trans masculine person I still have the same head as I did pre-transition). When people are trying to grow their hair into a longer and more feminine style they have had their hair cut short and masculine without their consent. I’ve also heard instances of sexist barbershop banter and toxic masculinity – sadly the list goes on. In 50 years’ time do you think there will be a need for a place like Open Barbers or do you think the barbering and salon industry will be inclusive for everyone? It is my dream and ambition that Open Barbers may one day be obsolete. Our mission is non-profit and anti-capitalist so this is not at odds with our business model. We know that some salons and barbers are getting their environment, services and non-gendered pricing right as there are people who don’t feel the need to travel to us anymore. We encourage those
businesses to keep up the good work! What are your hopes for the future of inclusive barbering and hairdressing? At the moment reporting of homophobia has doubled and transphobia has trebled, which is a very frightening statistic. Salons and barbershops need to understand that they can play a part in addressing this. To be truly inclusive of LGBTQ+ people is also to engage in tackling misogyny, racism, fat phobia, mental health stigma and ableism, as queer and trans people face multiple barriers to inclusion. As the amazing American writer and activist Audre Lorde said: “There is no such thing as a single-issue struggle because we do not live single-issue lives”.
THE STATISTICS The rate of LGBT hate crime per capita rose by 144% between 2013-14 and 2017-18 and the police recorded 11,600 crimes (more than doubling from 4,600) during this period, according to analysis published by The Guardian this year.
AUTUMN 2019 / 9
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
KEN HERMES
Part 2: Ambassadors
For the second instalment of our sponsored series with The Bluebeards Revenge, we get to know their team of ambassadors better
Age: 28 Barbershop: Gould Barbers, Ipswich Favourite Bluebeards product: The Sea Salt Spray. It’s such an effective product. Favourite cut / celebrity style: I love WWE wrestler Finn Balor’s style. Biggest challenge you’ve faced: Keeping cool when customers are rude or abusive. Desert island essentials: My Bluebeards Revenge Beard Brush, my wife and a keg of beer.
SOPHIE COLLINS
OLLIE FOSTER
VINCENT QUINN
CALLUM MARKS
Age: 28 Barbershop: Sophs Barbershop, Gwynedd, Wales Favourite cut/celebrity style: David Beckham’s textured quiff – arguably his best style yet. Biggest challenge you’ve faced as a barber: As a female barber it is challenging entering competitions as typically they have been dominated by men. Desert island essentials: Make-up, scissors and a bar of chocolate.
Age: 24 Barbershop: Number 47 Barbers, Hoole Trend prediction for 2020: I think we will see a rise in colour trends and the return of the skinhead – you heard it here first! Biggest challenge you’ve faced: Building my clientele. It has taken hard work, passion and lots of patience. Desert island essentials: My wonderful partner, my local kebab shop and my clippers.
Age: 27 Barbershop: Hard Grind, Dundee Favourite Bluebeards product: The Brushless Shaving Solution is great for edging and shaping. Trend prediction for 2020: Classic cuts, thanks to the new Bond film. Biggest challenge you’ve faced: Convincing people that hairdressing and barbering are the same industry! Desert island essentials: SPF, a lighter and a fishing rod.
Age: 32 Barbershop: Lukas Barbers, Plymouth Favourite Bluebeards product: The Pomade gets my vote as it offers hold and a high-shine finish. Biggest challenge you’ve faced: Long days with little breaks. It’s part and parcel of the industry but hard at first. Desert island essentials: Rum, a hammock and anything I can use to listen to Spotify sounds like a holiday to me!
10 / AUTUMN 2019
MONEY
Have you ever wondered what other businesses are charging for their services and why? If so, this feature is a must-read
W
hat do you take into consideration when setting your prices – rent, profit margin, your competitors? What about your client’s gender, your investment in education and your area’s demographic? We interviewed owners of men’s salons, unisex salons and barbershops to investigate the reasons behind their current price structures. Here’s what they think about chopping and changing service prices…
GENDERED PRICING
since opening in 2012. More recently ChopChop London opened in the capital in 2018 with the aim of introducing high-end hairdressing at affordable prices to the masses, without gendered pricing. Most of ChopChop’s services can be done in 20 minutes and are charged at a flat rate of £20. “Our prices are set according to the length of time it takes to complete each service, the cost to hire our premises, our skilled freelance stylists’ wages and what we think is a fair price. Gender doesn’t come into it,” states Kaye Sotomi, co-founder and creative director at ChopChop London.
SHUTTERSTOCK
If you identify as a man, going to a hairdressing salon rather than a barbershop for your
haircut would historically have seen you charged a higher amount. But times have changed, argues Klara Vanova from Barberette in London. Women are opting for barbershop styles, men are embracing longer lengths – and communities that don’t identify as men or women are changing notions of gendered haircuts. “Our prices are dictated by the work we do, the time it takes, the length of an individual’s hair and the frequency of a client’s visit, not their gender,” Klara explains. Barberette has campaigned for prices to be based on time and service, rather than gender,
AUTUMN 2019 / 11
SHUTTERSTOCK
MONEY
Notably these businesses are based in the capital with arguably larger footfall and a broader spectrum of clients. How does a traditional barbershop in a Northern seaside town set its price? The Company of Master Barbers in Southport charges a flat rate to its clients, regardless of style and the time it takes. “Whether a client has a full haircut or just one hair from their head removed, it’s the same price,” explains Robert Rix, the owner of The Company of Master Barbers. “Clients are paying for the training and education that has made our staff top flight barbers – not the style they are having done that day.” PAYING FOR THE PRO A respect for the past and pride in the quality of their work drives Robert and his business – and their loyal clients are willing to pay and travel for that service. “Geographically we have no immediate motorway link so anyone who visits our barbershop from further afield has to make a determined effort to come to us,” he explains. London-based Barberette understands its clients’ financial situation and has responded in a modern way offering cuts in exchange for favours (such as shop repairs), which helps clients on a low income. Similarly Robert knows his demographic. “Historically Southport was very affluent. In the 19th century it was a dormitory 12 / AUTUMN 2019
fades, patterns and the trend for longer hair that requires training in hairdressing techniques. Barbers are employing staff who have these skills, or investing in training for their staff to future-proof their business and attract new clients. Tony Haresign, owner of Esquire Barbershop in Fife, Scotland, has found there has been an increase in longer haired clients coming into his barbershop and his clients are being more experimental (bowl cuts are booming, he notes). “Men have more styles to choose from and they are prepared to spend more money on grooming,” he says. If you’re training your staff to get up to speed on new trends, your prices should reflect this. When else would you consider raising prices? “We will only put prices up if we need to increase the time spent on each customer or if increased inflation impacts the living wages of our freelancers,” explains ChopChop’s Kaye. Tony says: “I tend to increase prices every two years to stay in line with inflation. I also take into account rises in rent, utilities, staff and product costs.” Similarly Klara from Barberette cites rent as a big factor in price changes. She says: “Our rent has gone up twice since the last price change.”
town for the industrialists of Manchester who would commute by rail into the city,” he says. “There is ‘old money’ in Southport and so we pitch our price reasonably high.” Robert is conscious that his competitors’ prices are much lower – some operations in COMMUNICATION IS KEY the area charge as little as £5 for a basic cut. The consensus of everyone who was interviewed is that communication with “Our counter to those low prices is to set clients about any price changes in your as much clear water between us and them as possible,” he explains. Therefore this year barbershop is crucial. Money shouldn’t be a taboo subject the business raised its prices, not as an to discuss with “Clients are paying for economic necessity, your clients – they the training that has but as a way of should understand made our staff top flight the cost of your demonstrating to the barbers, not the styles public the difference training, your rent, in service between a they are having done.” inflation, rising costs of the equipment lower-priced Robert Rix, and the professional competitor. On The Company of products you use. the whole Robert Master Barbers Communicate price believes that barbers changes to all of your are doing themselves clients verbally if you can or in a carefully a disservice by charging too low a price. worded email. “I think this is a sad indictment of low “Never be afraid to put your prices up,” self-esteem – prices need to reflect a shop’s reassures NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. training, confidence in the staff ’s abilities “Next April 2020 is a good time, as that’s and a commitment to playing a part of when changes to the National Minimum their community in the long-run.” Wage and National Living Wage kick in so you can explain to clients about why you LONG-TERM TREND Thinking long term is key, particularly have to pass on increased costs.” Review when it comes to the styles that are in your prices regularly. The price is as much a demand. In 2019 barbershops are offering part of your business as the cuts you deliver and shows your team are worth it. a wider range of services from detailed
MONEY
JUST OVER HALF OF HAIRDRESSING, BARBERING AND BEAUTY BUSINESSES HAVE AN ANNUAL TURNOVER OF LESS THAN £99K*
WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN SETTING YOUR PRICES X COMPETITORS X YOUR DEMOGRAPHIC X RENT X OVERHEADS X STYLIST’S LEVEL OF SKILL X TRAINING X COST OF YOUR EQUIPMENT X YOUR PROFIT MARGIN
HOW DO YOU MEASURE UP WITH OUR CASE STUDIES FROM ACROSS THE UK?
THE COMPANY OF MASTER BARBERS, SOUTHPORT X LEAST EXPENSIVE ALL OVER CLIPPER CUT AT ONE GRADE: £10 X MOST EXPENSIVE LUXURY PACKAGE (WASH, CUT, SHAVE, FACIAL, FACE MASSAGE AND HEAD MASSAGE): £50
ESQUIRE BARBERSHOP, FIFE, SCOTLAND X LEAST EXPENSIVE BOY’S CUT: £15 X MOST EXPENSIVE SIGNATURE PRECISION CUT: £45
CHOPCHOP, LONDON X LEAST EXPENSIVE FRINGE TRIM: £5 X MOST EXPENSIVE COMPLETE RESTYLE: £30
BARBERETTE, LONDON
SHUTTERSTOCK
X LEAST EXPENSIVE SIMPLE UNDERCUT OR FRINGE TRIM: £7 X MOST EXPENSIVE LONG TO SHORT: £45
*
According to the 2018 Industry Statistics for Hairdressing, Barbering and Beauty report from the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF).
AUTUMN 2019 / 13
DEBATE
FOR SERVING ALCOHOL
SHUTTERSTOCK
Two owners argue their case for and against offering booze in barbershops AGAINST SERVING ALCOHOL
“At BarberBarber UK, we offer complimentary refreshments including alcoholic beverages at all of our stores with some of our larger stores having dedicated bar areas. In the current market where competition is fierce, I strongly believe that customer experience is everything. These days you can’t walk down a high street without passing a barbershop, so a point of difference is essential. Obviously, by offering alcohol, we are not encouraging binge drinking. It is more about elevating our brand in terms of service. And let’s face it – who doesn’t enjoy a cold beer at the end of a hard day? Even though we offer appointments in our bespoke areas, our walk-in trade remains very strong and therefore waiting times can sometimes be longer than expected. With this in mind, I feel that it is a nice touch to be able to offer a drink (whether it is alcoholic or non-alcoholic) as this helps to make their waiting time as pleasurable as possible. I do not drink myself but I see no issue with offering refreshments to our customers. Giving clients a drink adds to the overall experience and ensures that they go away with a positive impression of our brand. Of course, the ultimate goal being that they will become advocates and loyal customers.”
“I run two businesses, one of them is the Sid Sottung Academy and the other is my salon Haus of Sottung. I definitely don’t think alcohol belongs in the Academy as it is a place of learning, but I don’t think it is necessary in a salon or barbershop either. I’m six years sober so that has played a part in my decision to not serve alcohol. When guests arrive we offer them complimentary soft drinks such as elderflower cordial and hot drinks like lattes, cappuccinos and a range of teas. It’s nice to offer refreshments that are a bit more special than bog-standard beverages, but I don’t think it’s necessary to offer alcohol. In the future I’m looking to stock Rok Soba – it’s a really cool non-alcoholic beer. If we were holding an event, an opening party or if there was a wedding party booked in we might consider serving champagne. However from a financial perspective it doesn’t make sense for us to serve complimentary alcohol every day. If we did serve alcohol, we would have to get a licence and charge for it – giving it away for free regularly would result in a major loss of earnings. I think the view that barbershops are somewhere to get your beard trimmed while you sink a craft beer is going out of trend now. I hope we move away from this ‘Jack the Lad’ image of barbering to be honest. People are looking for an antidote to hipster salons and I think Haus of Sottung offers that.”
“Offering clients a drink adds to the overall experience and ensures that they go away with a positive impression of our brand.”
“I think the view that barbershops are somewhere to get your beard trimmed while you sink a craft beer is going out of trend.”
Johnny BaBa, co-owner, BarberBarber UK
Sid Sottung, director of Haus of Sottung and Sid Sottung Academy
14 / AUTUMN 2019
DEEP DIVE Attract new talent “In 2018 we launched Join Our Pride, a recruitment tool that we promote continuously to attract new barbers and clients. The talent behind our chairs is what makes Jacks of London stand out from the competition and we value all of our barbers highly.”
Give back to the community “This year we are partnering with Prostate Cancer UK to help diagnose treat, and prevent a disease that kills one man every 45 minutes.”
Inspire with leadership and investment “It is 25 years since Jacks of London MD and founder, Sue Whitehead, opened her first barbershop in Wimbledon. It’s still as fresh as it was back then thanks to visionary leadership, reinvention and constant reinvestment. It’s our people that have fed the success of the brand.”
Support your team
Constantly reinvent
“We offer people more than just a chair. We create opportunities for them to compete, educate and promote their vision through awards, stage work, photographic shoots and seminars. For example, we supported our master barber Kipp Evans in his fantastic third place win at the International Barber of the Year Awards in Berlin.”
“Too many brands stagnate – they arrive at a look they love and never move on. Over the past 25 years we’ve refreshed our brand, updated our stores, our branding, our products and our services. We’ve also consolidated as we’ve expanded because making changes slowly is the best way.”
Words of wisdom Emma shares her tips for excelling in business
1
Build a team with camaraderie so everyone enjoys working together.
Jacks of London is 25 this year! To celebrate, marketing director Emma Lee shares the company’s mission
2
Embrace innovation and look for ways to expand your services and systems.
3
Have structures in place so your team can earn the money they deserve. AUTUMN 2019 / 15
INTERIORS FACT FILE Name: Shepherds Address: 11 Piccadilly Arcade, Birmingham Owner: David Sturgeon Size: 25m2 Budget: £45K Staff: 5
The Art of Shepherds has brought Tate Modern-inspired industrial chic and minimalist Scandi design to Birmingham’s city centre Piccadilly Arcade
16 / AUTUMN 2019
S
hepherds in Birmingham takes inspiration from modernist and Scandinavian styles with its clean white walls, pure and simple wooden shelving, and a framed art feature wall. Shepherds’ owner David Sturgeon has successfully created a space that looks beautiful, but not busy, and takes inspiration from the turbine hall at the Tate Modern. “I was keen to create a place where you truly appreciate the effort and love that
went into its design,” explains David. Small details like specially-designed art and the simple colour scheme bring his ambition to life. David explains: “The yellow shade reflects the friendly service we hold at the very heart of the Shepherds’ experience. The grey and black tones reflect the confidence we have in our service.” The hexagonal black and white floor tiles create a natural divide between retail and barbering services and are inspired by New York barbershops and delis.
INTERIORS
Previously a manager at a London barbershop chain, David managed six stores and ran the training and development of the in-house team. During his time with the brand, he identified a gap in the market. He dreamed of creating a place where old fashioned wet shaves could be offered alongside modern hairdressing in an authentic retail environment. And so, Shepherds was born. The barbershop sits in the beautiful Victorian era Piccadilly Arcade which sees a large footfall of office workers and houses a bespoke selection of indie businesses. The renovation of the unit took a total of five months because David designed and built the shop predominately by himself.
The process wasn’t without its ups and downs – a faulty boiler and a flood made it a rollercoaster renovation. Fortunately, calm has arrived after the storm. In fact, calm is a word that David often uses when he talks about the barbershop. “I kept the reception and waiting area simple, calm and uncluttered,” he explains. “The salon has three barber chairs and so I believe that really we only need three waiting chairs. We are an appointment-based salon and we don’t want to have queues of clients waiting. A calm atmosphere is crucial for us.” A peaceful, stylish refuge for modern gentlemen’s grooming is exactly what David has created with Shepherds.
DAVID’S TOP TIPS • Know your budget To be honest at the start of the project I was so immersed in the construction I didn’t keep on top of my spending. I feel that I could have managed my budget better for opening costs. • Be part of the construction Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty as there is no better feeling than enjoying the results of something you’ve made yourself. • A well-structured business plan is key Remember a good business plan is not only for day one – it’s for every day.
AUTUMN 2019 / 17
FASHION
ROCK ‘N’ ROLL GODS Long hair, dramatic poses and big attitudes
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FASHION
“The Block Rockin’ collection is a nod to the long, flowing styles of the 1970s and the big hair of the 1980s. With influences such as Queen, Led Zeppelin and Whitesnake, the rock god look is brought to life in these images.” Tony Haresign
Hair: Tony Haresign and Allan Stone Make-up: Ellie Gibson Photography: Marie Harkness AUTUMN 2019 / 19
Teen subcultures are referenced in a collection that focuses on wearable hair and undone styling
Heartthrob Hair
FASHION
20 / AUTUMN 2019
FASHION
“We took inspiration from teenage subcultures from the late 1980s, reinterpreting popular haircuts of that period to make it a modern look. For this collection we decided to work with non-professional models to create a raw result.” Bons Men’s Hair AUTUMN 2019 / 21
FASHION
Hair: Bons Men’s Hair Photography: Gerardo Rainone 22 / AUTUMN 2019
FASHION
UP ALL NIGHT Grungy underground vibes and lived-in hair
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FASHION
Hair: Matt Dryden and Josh O’Callaghan, Areté Styling: Ramario Chevoy Clothing: GiGi Bottega Photography: Ragib Choudhury
“This collection was inspired by the city that never sleeps. We shot the campaign in the evening to maximise glow from the fluorescent lighting at various bars and a secret underground location in our home city of Nottingham. We finished the hair as naturally as possible and added a slight sheen to create that ‘out all night’ look.” Josh O’Callaghan, Areté
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FASHION
Refined and
Defined
Four looks for impeccably groomed modern gentlemen AUTUMN 2019 / 25
FASHION
26 / AUTUMN 2019
FASHION
“Our ‘Lives’ collection is about four lives that intersect at the crossroads of the hair salon. We’ve created four styles and four distinctive ideas.” David Rodelas
Hair: Barber Masters Rodelas Team (David Rodelas, Adrià Regadera, Víctor Gutiérrez, Adolfo Vicente and David Fernández) Make-up: Rodelas Photography: Javier Ávila AUTUMN 2019 / 27
FASHION
ROMANTIC VISION Dreamy looks and soft shapes
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FASHION
“The hair is relaxed but seductive. The colours and cuts are contemporary and imperfect, or rather, perfectly imperfect.” Stefano Nizzi
Hair: Stefano Nizzi and Axel Torraco for Grooming for Men, Alter Ego Italy Make-up: Silvia dell’Orto Styling: Emanuela Mari at Day Dream Photography: Andrew O’Toole AUTUMN 2019 / 29
FASHION
“These looks are perfect for bold men who are tired of trends. I created geometric shapes in well-structured hair. I kept the styling natural while including different textures.� David Soriano
Classic styles that stand the test of time
MODERN MAN 30 / AUTUMN 2019
FASHION
Hair: David Soriano Make-up: Karen Ramirez Styling: Núria Jimenez Products: label.m Photography: David Arnal
AUTUMN 2019 / 31
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BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
MONDAY 9TH SEPTEMBER 2019 PARK PLAZA, WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, LONDON
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PRODUCTS
THE HOT LIST
Back to matte
Groom for improvement
Blades of glory
The ethical accessory
Shave the day
Spice up your life
Work Redken Brews Liquid Matte Paste through dry or damp hair to infuse locks with moisture and deliver a matte finish to any client look. RRP £16
The Bluebeards Revenge has upgraded its best-selling Doubloon Shaving Brush to make it completely free of animal hair. RRP £9.99
What a team
La Biosthétique has launched an eight-product men’s range called Homme. Divided into hair and skin products, it features high-tech ingredients. From £14
The new MVRK by Mitch range from Paul Mitchell is available from Salon Success. It has been created by barbers, for barbers. From £13.95
Trimmercide keeps blades clean, cool, lubricated and prevents corrosion. The spray makes blades glide through the hair for a precise and comfortable cut.
Ideal for shaping and shaving, the Dark Stag Kamisori Razor uses regular double edge blades, so you can choose the blade brand to suit your budget. £36+VAT
Reuzel’s Beard Foam, Balm and Aftershave are available in a new wood and spice scent, which features notes of cedarwood and lemon. From £10.29
Smooth mover
Anniversary special
BaByliss Titanium Foil Shaver is designed for blending and fading with precision. The hypoallergenic foils give a close finish, without irritation. RRP £60
Own a piece of Wahl history with the Wahl 100 Year Anniversary Clipper. Buy the bonus pack and get a free set of Premium Combs. RRP £179.99+VAT AUTUMN 2019 / 33
INTERVIEW
Ky Wilson, owner of ground-breaking salon space The Social, shares his proudest moments and essential kitbag products
H
ow would you describe yourself in three words?
Energised, impatient and a perfectionist.
What are you most proud of in your career? Creating The Social. I
designed it to be a place that hairstylists could work, hang out and express themselves in. What hair product can’t you live without? I love a dry shampoo paste. I use
it all the time to create that kind of texture that everyone wants. I’m also trying to stop using aerosols to help the environment. What’s on your bucket list? I want to achieve a healthy work / life balance. What is your all-time favourite hair image? I love images depicting the
Northern Soul era – I referenced the style in my BaByliss Live show (pictured below). I believe images are important when it comes to the subculture, lifestyle and movement they show, however the most essential part of a picture for me is the creative process behind it. Do you have a hair hero?
I think my good friend Luke Pluckrose is seriously underrated. We met when I started out in the industry 10 years ago and he really looked out for me. He got me involved in cool stuff like doing a Coldplay video. We still work together today on shows. 34 / AUTUMN 2019
What’s your favourite image that you’ve shot?
The image that won me the L’Oréal Color Trophy Men’s Image Award in 2017. It was two years ago, but it is still really current now. This was probably one of the things I am most proud of in my career.
What’s your favourite piece of art?
I like David Hockney and anything immersive like Banksy’s Dismaland. Where would we find you at a party? Behind the bar or
at the BBQ. I prefer to host – even when I’m at someone else’s party. What’s the last gift you received? My
girlfriend took me to Portugal as a surprise for my 30th birthday. I didn’t know where I was going until I got on the plane.
What’s the last thing you do before bed?
I’ve started listening to a chilled playlist before bed because I find it really hard to switch off. I’ll be looking at my phone and suddenly it’s four o’clock in the morning.
If a career in men’s hairdressing hadn’t worked out what would you be doing?
Quick fire round Cats or dogs? Dogs Chocolate or vanilla ice cream? Chocolate Dining out or eating in? Eating in City pad or country retreat? Country Invisibility or ability to fly? Ability to fly Plain or spicy food? Spicy
I would like to work in tech. I’d want to create something revolutionary. Do you have any hobbies? I enjoy
skateboarding, playing the guitar, climbing and eating a variety of food cuisines such as Japanese, Turkish and Thai. Where’s your happy place? Around my
family or when I’m cutting hair.
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