Hairdressers Journal March 2020

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER March 2020

£5|March 2020|hji.co.uk

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CONTENTS

March 2020 News

08

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

12

HJ Live London The full schedule for the HJ and Modern Barber Stages

Business

23

Big Debate Have apprenticeships improved?

24

26

What do Apprentices Want?

HJ speaks to juniors working in salons throughout the UK The Staff Meeting Rules Discover how to get the most out of your team on a daily and weekly basis

Features

27

The Ultimate Blonde Bombshell Keep your regular blonde clients satisfied

36

The Maintenance Kitbag The products to suggest to your blonde clients

39

9 Ways to Maintain the Perfect Blonde The experts share their top tips

40

Conversations on Colour Q&A An exclusive interview with Jordanna Cobella

47

Bristling with Style The ultimate brush for every hair type

Inspiration

57

Fashion Six exclusive fashion collections

79 Regulars

43

Membership Offer Win the new Fudge Professional styling range

90

Interiors Take a tour of The Hair Movement in Sidcup, Kent

53

Men’s Trends Men’s news and an exclusive fashion collection

93

Careers Andrew Trott-Barn on staying true to himself

88

The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month

98

Life Through a Lens Darren Ambrose reveals his most-loved hair images

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Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

53 CREATIVE DIRECTION: MARK HAYES, SASSOON INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR HAIR: DANIEL MCCOURT, SILVIA SALERNO, L GARETH VANCE, SAFAA EL NOUR, DANIELLE HARVEY COLOUR: CARLA SALCEDA, CAROLINE SPENCER, STUART ROSS, RIESS FESSIONA KOPF PRO HATCHER MAKE-UP: DANIEL KOLARIC PHOTOGRAPHY: RAY KESHAM SCHWARZ

Managing Director Mark Moloney ] Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

31

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377

We l c o m e

Contributors Matthew Batham Keysha Davis Charlotte Grant-West

H

J’s first live event of the year is almost here – HJ Live London, which is taking place at ExCeL London on 29 and 30 March 2020.

Go to http://hjlive.co.uk/hjstages to register for your free tickets. If you’re reading this issue at the show itself head straight to page 12 for the full line-up on our two live stages – the HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and the Modern Barber Stage.

You may have spotted on social media that Sharon Osbourne has decided to ditch her signature red locks for a white hair transformation so this month we’ve dedicated our whole colour section to the lighter shades on the colour wheel. If your blonde clients are your most discerning you will want to read our Tone It Up feature on page 31, Maintenance Kitbag feature on page 36 and the 9 Ways to Maintain Your Client's Perfect Blonde on page 39.

We marked the UK’s recent Apprentice Week by asking the experts to share their thoughts on whether hairdressing apprenticeships have improved in recent years (page 23) and we also spoke to current apprentices about how they see their futures and what they want from an apprenticeship in 2020 (page 24).

We'd love to hear your thoughts on the current options for apprentices so please do get in touch with us via our social channels.

Enjoy the issue and we’ll see you at WHAT DO HJ Live London!

APPRENTICES

Intern Lydia Halsey

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Deputy Sales Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

£5|March 2020|hji.co.uk

WANT?

Account Manager Thomas Cox thomas@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365

Events and Sales Administrator Melinda Park melinda@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374 Design and Production Jaqui Palmer

On the cover: Hair: Jonathan Andrew for Fudge Professional Make-up: Mario Brooksbank Styling: Oliver Vaughn Photography: Simon Songhurst 5 / hji.co.uk

Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061

SHUTTERSTOCK

INDUSTRY NEWS Key Salon Milestones 2020 marks a special anniversary for a number of salons across the UK…

10 YEARS Bloggs Salon in Bristol is celebrating its 10th Anniversary this year with an awards dinner. Salon owner Joe Hemmings said: “This is a time to reflect on the past decade and what we have learnt to push our business forward.”

Trailblazer Apprenticeship Receives Approval The Level 3 Trailblazer Standards and Assessment Plan for the Advanced and Creative Hair Professional Apprenticeship at Level 3 has been approved by the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education (IfATE) with a maximum funding cap of £5,000.

The chair of the Trailblazer Apprenticeship Steering Group for hair professionals, Wendy Cummings said: “We now have a world-class apprenticeship standard and End Point Assessment Plan, that really raises the bar and allows an apprentice to demonstrate their professional skills, knowledge and

creativity in hairdressing.”

Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards at the NHBF and steering group member added: “It has been a challenging and prolonged process completing these standards and assessment plans with constant changes in direction and requirements from the IfATE, but we stuck to our guns and we have a standard and End Point Assessment Plan that is right of our industry.”

For more information about the Trailblazer Apprenticeships go to nhf.info/education and go to page 23 for HJ’s Big Debate on whether apprenticeships have improved.

New Sebastian Professional Cult Team

Six hairdressers have been selected to be part of the Sebastian Professional Cult Team for 2020/2021. The new team members are: Sam Millard (Avant Garde), Hannah Grogan (Foundation), Luigi Altomonte (Fratelli Hair), Gemma Noon (The Vinery Hair Salon), Samantha March (Twist Hair & Beauty) and Stephanie Gallagher (Wonderland).

The winners were chosen following a live audition which included being given two hours to create a show-stopping look. The new team members were judged on their styling knowledge as well as their presentation skills.

Sebastian Professional UK brand ambassador Dom Capel said: “We provide experiences that will not only allow the team to explore their creativity, but will also give them the opportunity to network with like-minded people who are emerging in the fashion and creative industries.

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25 YEARS Lino Thomas in Stansted is celebrating 25 years since Lino first opened the salon. Lino said: “I am immensely proud that the salon has built a great reputation, not only for hairdressing excellence, but also for award-winning training.”

40 YEARS Rainbow Room International celebrated turning 40 with its Annual Congress Awards.

Founders Alan and Linda Stewart said: “Everyone here has the ability to improve and develop which is why we have been a part of the hairdressing industry for 40 years.”

100 YEARS The KH Hair Group is celebrating a century in business as the company opened with a single salon on a quiet corner of Nottinghamshire in 1920. The first salon opened with six gentlemen’s chairs downstairs and the owner, Arthur Hall, installed eight female cubicles upstairs to create the very first unisex salon outside of London.

AW20 Trend Update Androgynous looks, chic updos and 1980s-inspired hairstyles were spotted

Slicked back ponytails were the theme on the JW Anderson runway.

The looks were designed to open up the face and Anthony Turner used L’Oréal Professionnel and Dyson to create the sleek hair with a deep parting.

GHD

1980s waves Loose waves inspired by the 1980s were seen at the Olivia Rubin show.

Zoë Irwin used ghd’s Helios Hairdryer and Classic Curl Tong to create the voluminous curls and finished the look with cute vibrant Kirby grips.

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Graceful updos Elegant plaits and ponytails emerged at the Preen show. Eugene Souleiman used Wella Professionals EIMI to create a modernist take on renaissance hair. There was a clean

and shiny centre parting with strands of hair tucked into the gold leaf around the models’ ears.

Wella Professionals guest artist Jayson Gray talks all things blonde this month…

Swinging sixties TIGI European session director Maria Kovacs created the youthful and luxe looks inspired by Francoise Hardy at the Mark Fast show. The idea was to give the girls and guys on the catwalk hair that looked polished yet not overdone. The focus was on creating volume and movement with a fresh and cool twist.

TIGI

Sleek ponies

Androgynony 101 Military-inspired hair appeared on the catwalk of the Richard Malone show. Lead stylist Richard Phillipart for BaByliss PRO fused masculine traits from the 1920s with sleek ponytails to blur the gender binary lines.

BABYLISS PRO

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL AND DYSON

down the runways at London Fashion Week last month

For more information on all of the AW20 trends from London Fashion Week go hji.co.uk.

Salon Supplies and Pietranera Support The Hair & Beauty Charity Salon Supplies is continuing to donate 2.5% of all its sales from the Italian furniture brand Pietranera to The Hair & Beauty Charity.

Ian Aherne, managing director of Salon Supplies said: “We’re delighted to be involved in supporting the charity whilst encouraging customers to buy into our newest exciting brand.” He added: “We are thrilled to partner with the prestigious Italian brand and look forward to bringing the brand to a new audience.”

The Hair & Beauty Charity was established to help hairdressers who have been aff ected by illness, disability, bereavement or fi nancial hardship. The charity relies on support from fellow hairdressers and companies in the industry to help those in need.

For more information go to salonsupplies.co.uk and hairandbeautycharity.org.

9 / hji.co.uk

The course: The Wella Professionals Star Blonde course at the Wella Studios is a quick way to become the blonde expert in your salon.

Why are blondes a key focus?

Blonde clients are the most challenging to please. Getting the right tone of blonde to suit your client is not easy so a colourist should always invest in blonde education. This will always be the biggest business in any salon so delivering a service that goes beyond expectations is important.

What is the Star Blonde package? This is a combination of four courses which are designed to boost your blonde business: Colour Craft Balayage, Blonde Toolbox, Ultimate Balayage and Discover House of Blondor. They are all oneday courses except House of Blondor which is two hours.

Combined, these courses will arm you with everything you need to be a blonde expert.

Why are you a fan of the Star Blonde package? Firstly, it is incredible value for money.

The package is £415 which saves more than £100 on the individual prices. Whatever you think you know about blondes – you will defi nitely learn more.

You’ll explore the full blonde spectrum in detail, learn how to do balayage with and without foil, get to grips with the inner details of toning and how to deliver couture colour. Every element of being a master in blondes is covered and you will walk away with the ability to truly grow your business.

Find out more in the Wella Professionals Education Book 2020: http://bit.ly/ WellaEducationBook2020

NEWS

RUSH held its annual RUSH Oscars awards at The Brewery in London last month to celebrate the hard work and dedication of its staff in 2019.

Co-founders and joint CEOs Andy Phouli and Stell Andrew opened the event by discussing the successes of 2019, which included regaining sole ownership of their business and introducing a plan to revive the family culture of the company in 2020.

Chief strategic offi cer Peter Phouli told guests his mission is to help the next generation of RUSH employees to rise up and reach their goals this year.

He said: “Life is about fi nding purpose and fulfi lment. On behalf of the team, I want to share our long-

term vision and goal to make RUSH the happiest place to work. You are all the future of this brand and the next generation. Congratulations to all of you and especially to tonight’s winners – you should be very proud.”

The RUSH Oscars winners included Mark Byron from RUSH Kensington for Front of House of the Year, Kalina Viktorova Pencheva from RUSH Bromley for Retailer of the Year, Nathalie Evans from RUSH Clapham High Street and RUSH Wandsworth for Manager of the Year. First place for the Photographic Awards was given to Ryan Humpage from RUSH Epsom and Michael Rackett from RUSH Centrale (pictured above).

Go to hji.co.uk for the full list of RUSH Oscars winners.

Gold Fever is Here A new luxury and ethical professional hair extensions brand has entered the UK called Gold Fever. The brand, which was founded by the son of David Gold who invented a successful hair extensions method in the early 1990s, wants to reinvent the UK hair extensions market. Founder Thomas Gold said his aim is to bring ethical and qualitative standards to the forefront. “I want to create something beautiful for clients that ticks all of the boxes – from giving money to sacred temples who in turn put it back into society, to giving many Indian families jobs in our production facilities to helping to restore the confidence of women by giving them back their crowning glory.”

A limited number of hair salons will be given the opportunity to stock Gold Fever. “Our precious hair cannot be sourced or produced overnight, which is why our objective in the UK is to cap the number of certified Gold Fever salons.”

For more information about the Gold Fever brand go to goldfever.com.

10 / hji.co.uk

Avant Garde in St Petersburg

Russia’s largest private museum of contemporary art has opened Hair, an exhibition curated in association with HJ that is dedicated to the Avant Garde category of the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Open until 5 April 2020, executive director, Jayne Lewis-Orr said aft er the offi cial opening: “It’s fantastic to see British hairdressing honoured so beautifully and recognised for its outstanding creativity. A huge thank you to all of those fi nalists and winners who worked with us on this project to create such an inspirational homage.”

The exhibition features the work of Skyler Hanna (pictured below), Joanne O’Neill (pictured above), Robert Masciave, Luke Pluckrose, Indira Schauwecker, Lucie Monbillard, Sylvestre Finold, Chie Sato, Seung Ki Baek, Karen Brown, Tiziana Di Marcelli, Lisa Walby, Emmanuel Esteban and Anne Veck.

HAIR: SKYLER HANNA. IMAGE COURTESY OF ERARTA MUSEUM

The RUSH OSCARS 2020

HAIR: JOANNE O’NEILL. IMAGE COURTESY OF ERARTA MUSEUM

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Go Beyond... with Colour

Goldwell shares its latest innovations as well as the latest trends and tips to keep you at the top of your game this spring/summer season

Innovative colour systems

What the experts say…

Colour in a can The Colour Can System is unique to Goldwell and when it first launched it was a revolution in how a salon operates its colour business. The system is designed to enable quick and highly accurate measuring and it can dramatically reduce your application costs and wastage. With air-tight closing after each usage, it prevents oxidation, leading to a longer shelf life than traditional tubes. Add to this the ability to create a Goldwell colour bar to display colour in a stunning way to your clients and you have everything you need to grow a more profitable colour business.

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Advanced light-reflecting technology @Pure Pigments are high definition direct dye additives that elevate hair colour with unprecedented vibrancy and brilliance. Opening up a completely new dimension of colour results, the basis of @Pure Pigments is the revolutionary HD3 dye technology developed in collaboration with the experts at Fujifilm over a period of 17 years.

“The Master Colorist Programme means so much to our salon. We currently have two Master Colorists – Kate and Jenny. They learned so much on the course and have brought all their knowledge back with them to share with everyone in the salon. The volume of colours we do and the looks we can achieve after having this training have increased dramatically and have been a massive asset to our business.”

Kate Preston and Liberty Rock at Kate Preston Salons, Fareham and Gosport …on choosing Goldwell as a colour house “We wanted an excellent colour product and company culture as well as a competitive contract agreement.

Goldwell met all of these and more.

We found the change to be smooth and inspiring, giving us products that have exceeded our expectations and have helped to improve our colour services. Having a new product portfolio enabled us to reassess our service offering. We have also changed our name to focus on being creative colour specialists and to focus more on our perfect client.”

Luke and Clare Halford at Addicted to Colour

NEW: Elumen Play Metallics Goldwell Elumen Play is a semi-permanent colour range that gives colourists the chance to experiment with trend shades. The range now has four new metallic shades to give a shimmer all over or to add some glow to your colour creations: • Glistening Metallic Berry • Glimmering Metallic Purple • Shimmering Metallic Petrol • Shiny Metallic Silver

The latest trends…

Goldwell has named Digital Teal as its first annual colour of the year. “Digital teal is exciting because it’s a fresh and modern twist on a classic blue and it is a key shade in our 2020 hair colour trend palette,” says John Moroney, Goldwell’s creative director. He adds: “It’s a forward-thinking and optimistic mood for the beginning of a new decade. With the transformation of any colour into couture by harnessing the power of Elumenation, it is possible to create runway-ready tones that are designed to go digital.”

For more information about Goldwell go to goldwell.co.uk 11 / hji.co.uk

IS HERE! “For me, there's nothing like stage work. I've always loved the adrenaline, buzz and excitement I feel when on stage. I also find it's a really great way to test where you are and push yourself forward. This industry is amazing and events like HJ Live are the ideal opportunity to learn from others and to see what's out there. HJ Live is a wonderful event and I'm very honoured to be part of it!”

Jonathan Andrew

HJ STAGE The HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing gets up close and personal with the best talent the UK has to offer. Award-winning teams and artists will showcase their most recent collections and will show you how to create iconic and fashion-forward looks.

Sunday 29 March 10:30-11:00 11:00-11:30 11:30-12:00 12:00-12:30

“Educating is something I am super passionate about.

Doing live shows is the most exhilarating yet terrifying thing I've ever done but I love every minute of it!

Expressing the knowledge that I’ve picked up during my career is an absolute blessing. Knowledge shouldn't be locked away but shared to help make the world a beautiful and more colourful place!”

Lexie Shay Rabbett

“We’re a multiaward-winning salon collective based in London’s West End. We’re renowned within the industry for our instinctive fashionfocused and trend conscious style.

Our Philosophy and 360° Techtrilogy education is driven with the hairstylist and consumer in mind and we look forward to sharing our technically creative cuts and colour with editorial styling at this month's HJ Live London show.”

HARE & BONE Art Team

Tiff J – 3 Thirty and Academy Salons Manifesto David Rae Giuseppe Stelitano and Kate Wingrove, Trevor Sorbie 12:30-13:00 Saks Art Team 13:00-13:30 Rush Art Team 13:30-14:00 Headmasters Pro Artistic Team 14:00-14:30 TONI&GUY Art Team 14:30-15:00 Mark Woolley 15:00-15:30 Denman Stage Star winner Josh Woodman and Desmond Murray 15:30-16:00 Blue Tit Art Team 16:00-16:30 Marlene Lamont Monday 30 March 10:30-11:00 Ben Madle at Headhunters 11:00-11:30 Atherton Cox Academy 11:30-12:00 Jamie Benny at Hare & Bone 12:00-12:30 Ainsley Quarmby and the Generation Now Team 12:30-13:00 Jamie Stevens Art Team 13:00-13:30 HARE & BONE Art Team 13:30-14:00 Russell Eaton Art Team 14:00-14:30 Jonathan Andrew 14:30-15:00 Jordanna Cobella 15:00-15:30 Lexie Shay Rabbett and Christabel Legrand 15:30-16:00 Karoliina Saunders 16:00-16:30 Georgia Bell

12 / hji.co.uk

HJ Live London is back this month and registration is completely free.

Here’s a look at the full line-up and just some of the big name acts you won't want to miss on the HJ Stage and Modern Barber Stage MODERN BARBER STAGE The Modern Barber Stage delivers two days of solid barbering and men’s hair education. The stage includes Afro, scissor cuts, clipper techniques and perfectly polished shop floor work to refresh your style portfolio.

Sunday 29 March 10:30-11:15

Danny Robinson and Kilian Maddison of Danny & Co Barbers 11:15-12:00 Jen Winters and Jacob Kilgore of Phoney Pony 12:00-12:45 Carl Taylor and Frankie Abbott of Murdock 12:45-13:30 Siobhan Moriarty Jones and Emma Richardson of Cavalier Club Barber Shop 13:30-14:15 Jak Finch and Charlie Rawles of MR Barbers 14:15-15:00 Kieron Price and Arichman Perez of Raw Image 15:00-15:45 Hairforce 1 Team 15:45-16:30 Richard Tucker and Maxwell Oakley of Ruffi ans Monday 30 March 10:30-11:15 11:15-12:00

The Lions Barber Collective Jack and Daniel Frangiamore of Jack Louis Hair and Hudsons Barbers 12:00-12:45 Liam Kenny and Baldy of Baldy's Barbers 12:45-13:30 Danny Robinson and Kilian Maddison of Danny & Co Barbers 13:30-14:15 Joe Mills Team 14:15-15:00 Teddy Edwards 15:00-15:45 Benjamin Sharps and Claudino Silva 15:45-16:30 UNDER 25s open chair

“We enjoy entertaining and educating our lads and ladettes about their hair so in turn we like to do the same for others in the industry wanting to learn. We break things down simply so everyone can understand our methods clearly. If you come to see the Phoney Pony team rock it on stage you can expect some giggles, banter and education that can be directly applied to your shop floor.”

Jen Winters and Jacob Kilgore of Phoney Pony

“Watching barbers cutting hair on stage really gave me and the team the knowledge and drive to be on stage. We’re proud to be on the Modern Barber Stage because it features the best of the best and inspires current and new generations of barbers to educate. Plus, it’s an amazing way to network with people and to be part of a good show.”

Carl Taylor and Frankie Abbott at Murdock

“We’re passionate about hair and firmly believe in the 'each one should teach one' ethos. Our senior barbers have 20 years’ experience and dedicate time to educating our trainees.

We focus on giving upand-coming barbers a skill for life and boosting industry standards within the Afro-Caribbean sector. We love performing at live shows to demonstrate our methods, provide handy tips and learn something ourselves!”

Hairforce 1 Team

13 / hji.co.uk

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It’s tbh – true beautiful honest true colour as close to natural hair colour as it gets beautiful shimmering tones with a healthy glow honest the approach to our formulation: up to 92% naturally derived ingredients, complemented by additional performance drivers

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Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

#HJColourReel Shout Out

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GET READY IRELAND… … because Hairdressers Journal International and Professional Beauty will be honouring Irish hair and beauty professionals with an inaugural awards ceremony in November 2020.

To find out more and to register your interest visit bit.ly/pbhjiawards.

AWARDS & IRELAND

BEAUTY, HAIR SPA

16 / hji.co.uk

@hji

@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

@hjinteractive

PIN

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Whether it’s refreshing your salon’s interior or creating a moodboard for a new shoot, make sure you check out HJ’s offi cial Pinterest page. We have thousands of pins across 25 boards to inspire you.

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HJ Live London is hitting ExCeL London on 29 and 30 March. You can follow all of the action across our social channels or attend yourself for free! Register your interest at hjlive.co.uk/hjstages.

17 / hji.co.uk

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A/W20 London Fashion Week has flown by and we are loving the references that stylists and designers are fusing together to create fresh, new looks.

Check our site and Instagram to see what we have captured backstage.

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BUSINESS

The Debate

How have hairdressing apprenticeships improved?

To celebrate Apprentice Week, two industry experts share their thoughts on how the entry route to hairdressing has changed in recent years “The apprentice service has become more supportive of employers”

“In the ever-expanding and changing industries of hair and beauty, there is a noticeable shift in the robustness of the qualifi cations being off ered. Most recently we’ve seen the launch of the new Professional Apprenticeship Standards. These new Standards are embracing this shift in enhancing the professionalism of these industries.

We are seeing a new wave of apprentices go through the new End-Point Assessment process at a professional standard previously unmatched. Whilst the standard may be more challenging, this will soon become the norm and will continue to improve the professionalism across businesses.

These new Standards are helping to open more doors for apprentices who aren’t sure where they want their career to take them. The breadth of experience gained with the hair professional should not only challenge apprentices, but provide a range of tools from cutting, colouring, styling and client consultations, which supports the decision around which career pathway to take.

The employer is more involved in developing the apprentice. By placing the employer in the driving seat to support the learner’s success, it enhances the knowledge and success of both parties.

Every apprentice we see is entering the salon with a structured learning plan agreed by the apprentice, training provider and employer. This ensures their goals lead to a rewarding job they love.

It’s imperative that tutors and training providers keep on top of the latest trends and changes to the sector.

Continual professional development (CPD) and attending education forums will keep you up-to-date and informed.

“The NHBF’s work over the past few years has resulted in some major improvements for both employers and apprentices.

The apprentice service has become more supportive of employers. The apprenticeship process can be managed online with employers choosing who does what, where and when. For example, employers can choose a training provider via the online portal and also select their end-point assessment organisation and where the assessments are carried out. Employers can also use the portal to advertise apprenticeship vacancies and to recruit new apprentices.

Employers have had a huge say in the development of the new Standards (Trailblazer) apprenticeships in the UK, helping to ensure that apprentices become ‘salonready’ employees at the end of their apprenticeship. As part of this, the level 2 hair professional: hairdressing/ barbering Standards are set at a higher standard than before, (equating to a level 2½). Apprentices can also choose options such as hair extensions, perming or relaxing techniques, while still having to pass the hair professional mandatory qualifi cation.

The end-point assessment provides a robust standardised test (similar to an employer skills test) that ensures the apprentice has reached industry-standard competence.

UK government funding is higher for the new Standards apprenticeships compared to the old frameworks. Plus, a level 3 advanced and creative hair professional progression route will be available soon.

This will mean apprentices can showcase looks to promote their skills and knowledge to salon clients.”

Alan Woods OBE, CEO of iTEC & VTCT

Caroline Larissey, National Hair and Beauty Federation’s director of quality & standards

23 / hji.co.uk

DENYS KURBATOV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

“New Standards are opening more doors for young apprentices”

APRENTICESHIPS

What do Hairdressing Apprentices Want in

2020 We spoke to nextgen hairdressers from across the UK to get the lowdown on what they want from their apprenticeships

f you’re a salon owner reading this, listen up – times have changed since you were an apprentice. We spoke to the school of 2020 and they cited work/life balance, job fulfi lment and clear career progression as nonnegotiables. They also recognised sacrifi ces had to be made and that sometimes advancement comes at a cost (particularly to their pay packet).

I

“I’ve seen other IXXZMV\QKM[ move up the salon ranks.”

Josh Beardshall and Morgan Hirst, Russell Eaton Salons

Where do you see yourself in five years’ time?

J: I love working at Russell Eaton and I’ve seen the journey of other apprentices who have moved up the salon ranks, so I hope to do that.

What salary would you like to have as an apprentice?

M: I feel the salary should be higher as living costs have increased. I wanted to learn to drive but had to get financial support from my family, which I know others aren’t always as lucky as me to have.

What was your journey into hairdressing?

J: I came into hairdressing a littler later in life. I completed an apprenticeship in electrical engineering, but it wasn’t my passion. Robert gave me an opportunity to work at the salon. However, I do sometimes put my old skills to use changing a lightbulb or two!

What do people say about your career?

It’s funny, when I was at school people used to look at hairdressing as a fall-back job, but now I’m in London people say, ‘cool job’.

teaching and the medical professions.

Do you have to make sacrifices for the career you want?

Leaving my home in Ireland to study in London and finding somewhere affordable was a big sacrifice and I feel my friends at university don’t work as No – they focused on careers in engineering, many hours as I do.

“I feel like my friends who are at university don’t Did your school give work as many hours you information about as I do.” apprenticeships?

Lisa Jones, Brooks & Brooks London

“It’s hard to live on £650 per month.”

Sian Cracknell, HOB Salons, London

What salary would you like to have as an apprentice?

I think it depends on age. I was 19 when I started hairdressing, so I struggled, especially as I was in wealth management before and had an annual salary. I do think the wage needs to be higher, because it’s hard to live on around £650 per month.

What do people say when you tell them you’re training to be a hairdresser?

Unfortunately, there’s still a stigma. Nobody has outright said anything negative to me, but I do get the sense that people don’t think I’m intelligent. I try to throw in clever conversation topics, and you can see them thinking: ‘oh’!

Is your apprenticeship hard work?

Initially it was harder work than I anticipated, and it was a shock at how hands-on you are even from the beginning.

“You need to Å VL JITIVKM otherwise you J]ZV W]\ º Eva Morrison, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing, Northern Ireland

How important is work/life balance to you?

I love my job but I also need to do normal 18-year-old things!

You need to find a balance to avoid burning out.

Where do you want to be in a year’s time?

“Young people struggle to see \PM JQOOMZ XQK\]ZM and want money instantly.”

Zack Hammond, Hooker & Young Salons

Where do you see yourself in five years’ time?

HJ would be a dream come true!

What do your friends think of your career?

My friends crack jokes sometimes, but I don’t take offence as I’ll be the one laughing when I’m more successful!

How did you find your apprenticeship?

I want to complete the Schwarzkopf Colour Master degree I found it with a local training and I’d love to have my creative provider. I wanted to be a musician, work published – the front cover of but gigs come second to hair now!

24 / hji.co.uk

I have just started my Level 3 training so I want to be working on building my own clientele. I want to continue improving my skills and to feel more confident.

Do you think apprentices are paid enough?

I still live at home so don’t have lots of overheads. If you have responsibilities like bills and rent then wages for apprentices need to be higher, otherwise life can be a struggle.

DISCOVER YOUR STYLE STYLING CHAIRS designed for SALON LIFE

+44 (0) 20 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

The Ultimate Staff Meeting Rules Are you bored by your daily and weekly staff meetings? Business expert Liz McKeon shares some simple steps that will transform your team’s morale

E

ven if it is difficult to justify the time, holding regular meetings is vital for effective management and communication. The best staff meetings will save you time, increase motivation, improve productivity and solve your problems. You can also use them to generate new ideas and ensure your team buys into your company philosophy.

You should consider the purpose of your regular salon staff meetings.

Different types of meeting include: • Training • Information • New idea-focused • Planning-focused • Client feedback-focused • Problem solving • Performance reporting • Setting targets • Making decisions • Team building • Motivation Plan, run and follow up your meetings properly and they will repay the cost many times over because there is still no substitute for physical face-to-face discussions. Well run meetings make people happier and more productive. Badly run meetings waste time, money and resources and are worse than having no meetings at all.

Meetings which involve staff and encourage participation and responsibility are more constructive than meetings in which the manager tells, instructs and makes all the decisions, which is not a particularly productive style of leadership.

The secret to a successful salon

Basic rules for running meetings

Six ways to run an MЄ MK\Q^M UMM\QVO

1 2

Use the agenda as a planning tool and stick closely to it.

Circulate the agenda in advance, allowing all team members to prepare and to contribute topics and agenda items under any other business.

3

Run the meeting to a set and agreed time – keep control of the discussion, agree clear outcomes, actions and responsibilities.

4

Take comprehensive and clear notes so the team see you are recording agreed actions.

5

Circulate the notes to the team and keep a record of these on file for future reference and to refer back to in the next meeting.

6

Follow up on agreed actions and responsibilities.

meeting is about keeping control.

You achieve this by sticking to the agenda, managing the relationships and personalities, and concentrating on outcomes. All of your meetings must have a purpose so remind yourself and the team of the required outcomes and steer towards making progress during the allocated time.

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The aim of a well-run staff meeting is for all staff members to feel like it took care of their needs as well as the original agenda. Your choice of structure and style in running an effective meeting is dependent on several factors, such as: • The situation.

• The implications and needs of the salon project.

• The needs and interests of the team.

• Your own role, confidence and personal experience.

• Your salon position and relationship with the team.

• The aim and agenda of the meeting.

Staff are at their most sensitive at the beginning of meetings so schedule anything controversial for later in the agenda as this will give people a chance to settle down and relax. Suppress the over-zealous and encourage your nervous staff.

You should never tolerate moaning, instead tell the moaning individual to research the topic and report back to you with recommendations.

You should always watch how your staff behave in meetings – look out for signs of tiredness, confusion or boredom and take necessary action and it is vital to stick to the agenda.

4Qb 5K3MWn is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK

BUSINESS

COLOUR

CREATE THE

ULTIMATE BLONDE BOMBSHELL 31 36

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Tone it Up The Blonde Colour Maintenance Kitbag

9 Ways to Maintain Your Client’s Perfect Blonde Exclusive: Q&A with Jordanna Cobella

Hair: Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK & Ireland technical director Make-up: Lucy Flower Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Ben Ottewell 27 / hji.co.uk

CREATE A BUZZ AROUND

BLONDE GLAZING Wella Professionals’ summer glazing, in partnership with Zoë Irwin, Wella Professionals UK colour trend expert, is a massive opportunity for you and your salon. Read on to find out what it is and why you won’t want to miss out…

What is the inspiration?

This season we’re jetting off to the French Rivieria and Saint Tropez to spend time on the sun-drenched beach of Pampelonne with its crystal blue sea, long stretches of sand and chic beach clubs.

Following on from Zoë’s last collection, called Haze Glazing, the vibe is still the 1970s and she’s particularly focused on her adoration for the diffused photography of the era with its soft haze dream effect. “I love the way sunlight hits the hair from behind giving it an ethereal quality and creating amazing silhouettes. I’m once again referencing the colours and tones of wheat and dried grasses which were so prevalent in 1970s fashion photography,” explains Zoë.

You can see these beautiful tones coming through in the SS20 shows, like Chloé, Miu Miu, Stella McCartney and Roksanda. Zoë’s muses are Brigitte Bardot and Monica Vitti whose hair colour looks so gorgeous even 50 years later because of the multi-tonal shades and the seamless way their colour blends.

Why the 1970s?

“We know we’re going through turbulent times, so we’ve become more nostalgic. This has been well documented in fashion over the last few seasons – you can see the 1970s palette strongly featured again in the SS20 shows,” she explains. We are looking back to a time of fond

memories so there’s an emotional connection with the time. When we think about the 1970s we think of long hot summers and wearing gorgeous dresses. This time was well documented with images shot in warm hazy light and they are also filtered with soft and dreamy hues.

The colours themselves are very comforting at a time of such despair.

We are subconsciously leaning towards colours that make us feel homely, warm and nostalgic.

The summer glazing trend “Summer is a big time for blondes and when Wella Professionals asked me to create a glazing palette for my favourite product, Illumina Color, it was a dream come true,” says Zoë. “I spent days mixing shades, including four new cool blonde shades, and coming up with new ones for my glazing palette,” she adds.

Glazing or toning as it is also known, is such a huge part of Zoë’s work with blondes. She gives all of her clients at least two products – Wellaplex to strengthen their hair, and a glazing service with Illumina Color.

She says there’s no way anyone would leave the salon without a glaze being applied. “My palm painting technique (which is the traditional French way to balayage) is beautiful and my clients oft en say they love their hair already once I’ve fi nished this step in their service. They can’t believe the diff erence to their hair once the glaze is applied,” explains Zoë.

Book a course at a Wella studio in London: +4480 36504700, Manchester: +44161 8342645 or Dublin:+3531 4160900. Email uk.wellastore.com or go to @wellahairuk #WellaColour.

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE THE 4 NEW BLONDE SHADES Wella Professionals has added four new cool blonde shades to its Illumina Color portfolio...

HOW TO CREATE GLAZING BALAYAGE The Glaze is a ‘diluted’ wash of colour that picks up on any pre-lightened areas of the hair, working with the Illumina Color palette.

Follow the steps below to recreate Zoë’s glazing balayage look on clients in the salon.

The Lightening Formula • 30g Blondor Freelights Powder • 45ml 12% Blondor Freelights Developer • 3ml Wellaplex No1

10/81: Great for: Lightening natural hair up to 3 levels, it offers neutralisation on warm yellow and orange undertones to achieve clean sophisticated blondes. It is also ideal for toning over pre-lightened hair to achieve those extra cool icy results.

The Glazing Formula using Illumina Color 9/59: • 30g 9/59 Illumina Color • 30g Platinum Lily Opal-Essence by Illumina Color • 120ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer

Tip: Use it for more neutralisation than the 10/69 blonde toner.

9/59: Great for: Toning natural hair depth 7/0 and lighter for a delicate and slightly warmer raspberry hue. Try over previously pre-lightened hair for a delicate blonde with a slight blush hue.

Tip: For rose eff ects try combining with Titanium Rose from Opal-Essence, or to achieve an even cooler result combine with 8/69 or 10/69.

9/19: Great for: Gently neutralising golden hues when lightening or to create a soft icy beige when toning prelightened hair. Use on natural hair to achieve natural beige blondes.

Tip: Combine with 9/60 for additional neutralisation. Avoid use on natural grey hair or combine with 8/ for optimal coverage with a cooler finish.

8/93: Great for: Lightening natural hair on depth 5/0 and lighter. Beautiful for toning a brunette Illuminage shade to maintain soft and natural highs in the hair.

NEW

Tip: For clients with grey hair use in combination with 8/ for coverage.

STEP 1

STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

STEP 5

Apply your Wellaplex No2 Bond Stabilizer to towel dried hair for 10 minutes and rinse the hair.

Shampoo using System Professional Color Save. Apply Blondor Seal and Care for five minutes. and rinse the hair.

Mix your Glaze.

1pt Illumina Color 2pt Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer and section the hair.

Develop for five to 15 minutes with no heat.

Rinse the Glaze.

Apply System Professional Color Lock Emulsion Post Color Stabilizer for five to 10 minutes and rinse. Style with EIMI.

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CUST

LOR O C UR

O Y E Z OMI

• ADD POWER PIGMENTS TO COLOR, CARE AND STYLING TO TAKE SALON TREATMENTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL. • CREATE INSTANT COLOR DEPOSITS, SIMPLY CHOOSE YOUR BASE, DROP AND APPLY. • A TRULY CUSTOMIZABLE COLOR, USE LESS DROPS FOR PASTEL SHADES OR MIX MULTIPLE DROPS TO CREATE A BRAND NEW TONE.

#GOTTHEPOWER

CRAZY COLOR

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COLOUR

one e b d o wn t ging an ut o n k are challen o find o int s t n t o st ie e cl the mo ead on g on-p our d n r y in Blo of g so m look ey sit in ent n i n tm h er he disc keep t ment t appoin alon… to mo ext n the s how om the l their n i i fr t n ir u cha

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he ‘blondes have more fun’ saying demonstrates societal attitudes towards this iconic shade. Blonde hair is seen as playful, carefree and fun and has subsequently become a hair colour we associate with the warm summer months.

In recent years blonde hair has taken on a plethora of guises.

There are so many variations that each colour brings its own set of connotations, ranging from the mystery associated with the ice blonde and the fashion-forward aesthetic of the platinum blonde to the rule-breaking attitude of the dirty blonde. If you are receiving an increase in requests for shades of blonde that can be worn all year round, we’ve got the lowdown on the best ways to help your clients to maintain it.

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COLOUR which will turn your client’s once perfect blonde hair into something that’s not quite right,” states Jason Hogan, colour expert at Josh Wood Atelier. “Seeing my clients every six to eight weeks allows me to assess their hair and see what it needs to keep that blonde looking fresh and luminous. Most of the time it will be a gloss to give exceptional shine which can sometimes be hard to achieve with blonde hair,” he adds.

Keep Brassiness at Bay

Convenience is key for most of your clients. Whether your client is

trend-driven or a creature of habit who seldom veers away from their regular style, most customers prefer to keep their salon visits down to the bare minimum when it comes to colour maintenance. Yet, it’s still important to educate your clients about the benefits of having a professional hair toning service to maintain their bespoke shade of blonde.

A good toning product will help to correct or enhance your client’s colour when it morphs into a different shade during the changing seasons. “When it comes to blonde hair, there will always be some upkeep,” admits Leandro Santos Santana, Owner of Decode Hair by Leandro. He adds: “This does not mean a client needs to come into the salon every month to have their highlights topped up. A toner or glossing service every few months can help to keep blonde hair looking fresh between appointments and will enhance your client’s natural hair colour and will give it a healthy finish full of shine. Leandro believes we will see a lot less bleaching and full heads of blonde colour this year. Instead, he expects to see more subtle, fine highlights and babylights, as well as balayage. “These services are great as they avoid a very obvious regrowth and will give the hair a more natural appearance. For blondes in the salon I always use Wella Blondor mixed with Wellaplex to ensure hair is kept in its best condition.”

A Complete Toning Service

A blonde toning service is a quick and easy way to generate more revenue for the salon and it also encourages your blonde clients to check-in with you between colour

“Blonde hair is a fickle creature and is very susceptible to environmental pollutants.”

Jason Hogan at Josh Wood Atelier

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visits. Salon Success technical education consultant Victoria Panting who works with Paul Mitchell, Kenra and #Mydentity recommends adding this service to your salon menu, price list and social channels. “A lunchtime colour and blow-out for example, using Paul Mitchell the Demi is perfect because it has a 20-minute process time.”

She explains that honesty is the

ANN

Winter Woes

Traditionally, blondes have been discouraged from dyeing their hair lighter during the winter months, as the grey skies, and cold nights tends to deplete strands of moisture and can make the shade appear dull. With more customers opting to maintain their blonde colour throughout the colder months, how can you ensure you’re providing the right treatment care and advice to your clientele? “Blonde hair is a fickle creature and is very susceptible to environmental pollutants and oxidative stress,

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AFFINAGE

Toning is only one factor to consider when advising your clients about how to keep their blonde looking healthy and on-point for

AL ION FESS PRO

Client Home Care

365 days of the year. Making sure the texture is full of lustre and shine will also require care, and this is something that clients should be encouraged to do at home as well as in the salon. Colour shampoos formulated for blonde hair and treatment masks are just a few ways in which dry and delicate strands can receive reparative care from the cold weather combined with central heating. “You need to remind clients that blonde hair can look dull and it can sometimes go brassy,” points out Lyndsey Ford, IdHAIR UK head of education. To avoid this, it’s crucial to always advise clients to buy professional blonde or coloured hair shampoos and conditioners that are designed to keep brassiness at bay and to prevent the hair from looking ashy.

Crazy Color ambassador Sophia Hilton goes as far as to say there’s no excuse for not giving your clients a professional haircare routine to follow at home. She says: “If a stylist is saying goodbye to a client that doesn’t have a take-home colour in their bag I will want to know why.

For me a good service is the client’s ability to keep their colour looking fantastic until their next service.”

She adds: “I’ve ramped up the PF ZKO WAR SCH

best policy as blonde toners require upkeep so make sure you set your clients up to win by explaining how their colour journey will look with examples on moodboards.

You will also need to dispel the myths surrounding toners. Many clients will assume toners are only used when a colour has gone wrong as opposed to enhancing the blonde tones within their hair. “If you point out early on in the consultation that a toner will be required to refine the end result it won’t be seen as you trying to fix something or trying to get more money at the end of their appointment,” points out Victoria.

There are a number of benefits to offering a professional blonde toning service in your salon. “The key word here is professional as we’ve all seen those disaster videos online of people lightening their hair at home and losing a few inches due to the hair snapping,” points out Paul Watts, Joico European color design team member. “Offering a blonde service in the salon benefits the client hugely as we have everything at hand for any unwanted warmth coming through and we are also able to neutralise and double-tone if we need to do so.”

New Blonde Product Alert…

Affinage Salon Professional has added the System Blonde Anti-Yellow Lightening Additive to its range which will tend to your clients’ yellow hair mishaps. The formula lifts all dark blondes to a lighter base, leaving hair with a white blonde finish without having to tone the hair afterwards.

Salon price: £10.95 +VAT

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home care for our super ash/silver blondes this winter. I’m taking it one step further with Crazy Color’s No Yellow range. Instead of getting the client to use it when they wash, I get them to paint it (lazily) on their roots and leave it in for 30 minutes, pulling it through to the ends in the last ten minutes on dry hair, then rinsing it like a toner. It’s super strong and as long as your client is happy with the grey/violet vibe it will blow your client’s mind.” milk_shake ambassador Andrew Smith always conducts thorough consultations and ensures every client is committed to maintaining their blonde between salon visits.

“Every blonde client (in fact, every client) deserves your professional opinion on how to care for their hair colour and to have the knowledge to maintain the desired tone between salon visits.”

He believes failure to educate your clients that being blonde is a journey and not a destination will lead to disappointment and clients returning with bad hair colour, which is not good for your reputation.

Andrew is a huge fan of the milk_shake Silver Shine Shampoo and Conditioner to instantly remove brassiness and to keep the hair tone cool. However, he also says weekly at-home treatments are vital. “It’s so important to remind blonde clients in particular about the need to have an intense weekly treatment as this will rehydrate and replenish the hair with vital nutrients and moisture.”

COLOUR

r u o l o c e e The c d n n a o bl inten mabag kit 3

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1 Balmain Care Illuminating Shampoo (300ml) £25.65 Balmain Hair Care Repair Mask (200ml) £31.95 Balmain Ash Toner (200ml) £24.50 2 Wella Professionals Fusion Intense Repair Mask £17 Wella Professionals INVIGO Blonde Recharge Conditioner £14.40 Wella Professionals Illumina Color £16.99

3 Fudge Professional Clean Blonde Damage Rewind Shampoo and Conditioner £15+VAT Fudge Professional Headpaint Gel Toner in Cool Champagne, Ultra-Light Ash Blonde, Ultra-Light Light Blonde £5.49+VAT Each

5 Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ £25.85 Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Blonde Toning £11.05 Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Keratin Restore Bonding Shampoo £15.65

4 OSMO Super Silver No Yellow Shampoo £12.20+VAT OSMO Super Silver No Yellow Mask £8.40+VAT

6 Manic Panic Silver Stiletto Toner £6.50 Ex. VAT Manic Panic Smoke Screen £6.99 Ex. VAT Manic Panic Pro

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Pastelizer £5.99 Ex. VAT 7 Goldwell Dualsenses Blonde & Highlights Anti-Yellow Shampoo£12 Goldwell Dualsenses Blonde & Highlights Anti-Yellow Conditioner £13 Goldwell Dualsenses Blonde & Highlights Brilliance Serum Spray £14.25 Goldwell Dualsenses Blonde & Highlights 60 Second Treatment £14.25

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THE GAMECHANGER

Aft er years in development, ASP has unveiled its best colour to date with next generation technology for the ultimate in professional colour performance – say hello to the new and updated INFINITI permanent colour range

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SP INFINITI is a full range of permanent hair colours, colour additives, toners and colour highlighting. It offers unlimited possibilities for colourists and their clients. This incredible new range has a number of selling points that will make it an instant hit. With 139 shades and the ability to create bespoke results, there is something to suit everyone’s colour needs.

INFINITI contains 92% naturally derived ingredients, it has ultra-low ammonia and it is vegan-friendly and sulphate-free. The range is now even easier to apply thanks to its increased viscosity and features advanced antifade technology with UV filters. The pH reducing emulsion crème base with shea butter and argan oil offers unrivalled condition and shine while

giving your clients 100% grey and white coverage.

An enhanced colour palette The INFINITI range has been updated with new shades. Following on from the success of its colour highlighting crème b:RED, ASP has created b:BROWN – a permanent lift and colour system that delivers beautiful brown results on natural and coloured hair without the need to pre-lighten.

The on-scalp formula is perfect for all dark hair types and off ers up to 5 levels of lift in one step.

The .7 collection is also new and features three shades (8.7, 7.7 and 6.7), which are formulated to neutralise unwanted orange tones when lightening the hair. T22 and T135 are new additions to the INFINITI Toner range. The toners are designed to create beautiful cool or warm tones on pre-lightened hair.

The next generation technology INFINITI’s 139 shades contain ASP’s new GPS TECnology, which precisely directs colour to the optimum location in the cortex.

The benefits include:

• More efficient colour delivery • Greater colour intensity • Ultimate condition and shine • Stable and long-lasting results • No damage to the cuticle

For more information on ASP INFINITI go to www.asphair.com or call 01794 527 111 37 / hji.co.uk

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“If a client wants the Holly Willoughby blonde look, we like to perform a high lift rather than bleaching. We recommend toning if someone has a naturally darker undertone to combat the roots coming through. Toner helps to close down the cuticles and increase the longevity of the colour.”

Jamie Stevens, Jamie Stevens Hair

“Clients must maintain their blonde in the winter and spring months. In winter, skin can appear to look a little lacklustre so it’s important to add brightness around the face, making the skin less sallow, especially a golden blonde. Good conditioning masks focused on moisture should be used once a week. I love L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Vitamino Colour as it’s great for preserving colour for longer as well as keeping hair super soft and nourished.”

Vas Mikelli, Sinead Kelly London for L’Oréal Professionnel

“Blondes need care in the winter too. Pollution really does discolour blondes and its effects are felt all year-round. From hard water to metal particles from car fumes, I believe Revlon Professional’s MAGNET range is the answer. It’s proven to remove pollution from all sources from the hair shaft during the colour process and the at-home care products stop it from reattaching

CONSIDER THE INGREDIENTS

“Maintaining a care regime is so important in spring and should be adapted according to the life cycle of the salon hair colour as well as to the time of year.

Suggest Balmain Hair Couture’s Moisturising haircare range as it is enriched with pure organic argan elixir and silk protein to deliver superior hydration.”

Lisa Shepherd Balmain Hair UK ambassador/creative influencer

“Seasonal toning is the key to unlocking the year-round blonde. You should explore caramels and warmer undertones during the winter months with a gradual switch to icy cool blondes during the summer for a cleaner finish.

Maximise the caramel warmth with multiple tones. You want to deliver deeper tones at the root and to blend to a lighter shade towards the mid lengths and ends with a balayage or melt for a real multi-tonal depth.”

Andrew Trott-Barn, Advanced Pro Salon and ColourCode art director

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THE SILVER SHAMPOO

“Regardless of the season, when you are using blonde toners it is important that you get a clean lift as that increases the longevity of the colour and therefore makes it easier to maintain. If the toner starts to fade it is important to use a silver shampoo and mask like OSMO Super Silver No Yellow Shampoo and OSMO Super Silver No Yellow Mask to neutralise the yellow tones that occur when bleaching.”

Tom Baxter, owner of Tom Baxter Hair and OSMO brand ambassador

9

GETTING THE RIGHT BALANCE

“Blonde is a year-round shade with the tone being adjusted depending on the time of year. If you use techniques like balayage, babylights and toners you can create beautiful blondes all year round. My favourite for adding tone is Illumina Color – the results are so pretty and loved by all of my clients. Condition is paramount – treatments like Wella Fusion Intense Hair Mask and the Invigo Color Recharge Cool Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner will maintain the colour between visits.”

Zoe Irwin, Wella Professionals UK colour trend expert

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PREVENT POLLUTION BUILD-UP

PROFESSIO

3

SUGGEST A SPRING CLEAN

9 REVLON

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OPT FOR A HIGH LIFT

WAYS TO MAINTAIN YOUR CLIENT’S PERFECT BLONDE

7

THE ALL-YEAR ROUND BLONDE

SALON

“I advise my blondes to pop in two to three months after a hair appointment and have a toner to keep the colour maintained and glossy. For our white blondes I advise using a shampoo that will neutralise any unwanted yellow tones at least once a week, to keep the white hair fresh. I recommend using Kérastase Blond Absolute once a week in between another blonde maintaining shampoo.”

Neville Hair & Beauty senior stylist, Kelly May

“Toners are so important as once the desired level of lift is achieved, the tone is the customised bespoke end result. Depending on the outcome, the toner helps you achieve what you need to replace and what you have essentially removed while lightening. However, once the client has left the salon chair that does not mean their colour journey stops. Home care is essential and as the colourist, it is our role to advise them on the best aftercare to help enhance the colour in between salon visits.”

HOB Academy head of technical, Warren Boodaghian

from the air and water once your client leaves the salon. It means a cleaner, more even blonde between appointments and even more reliable colour results in the chair.”

Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global creative ambassador

CED P RO

1

BOOK THE RETURN VISIT

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MASTER THE HOME CARE CONSULTATION

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AIR NEVILLE H

UTY AND BEA

COLOUR

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COLOURIST INTERVIEW play a huge role as the project evolves and ideas come to life. While the internet provides us with an incredible variety of influences and trend reports at the click of a button, I will always be a bigger fan of printed books and magazine tear outs and layering these onto my moodboards – you can’t beat it!

ns on

satio Conver

R U O COL with…

What are your favourite colouring techniques?

Jordanna Cobella

Wella UK guest artist Jordanna Cobella shares her thoughts on colourists not charging enough and the importance of creating a bespoke shade for each of your clients

I love bespoke colouring and combining three or four different colour mixtures, using as much of the colour portfolio as possible. I feel the client should walk away feeling like I have created the most bespoke shade and placement technique, which cannot compare to writing down a formula on a card. I’ve recently been working on marbling and blending using soft tonal differences to create a very melted feel to the hair. Tweed hair is certainly making a statement in our salon, bringing back babylights and strandlights to the root area to minimise the contrast of depths. I celebrate the artistry of hair colouring in terms of application. I’m not afraid to experiment with different tools like sponges, paint brushes and wide tooth applicator combs – anything that contributes to the bespoke nature of the service.

What are the challenges facing professional colourists at the moment?

Home hair colouring still stands as a big challenge as the formulas are getting more advanced and clients are becoming more educated than ever before. From my experience visiting salons around the UK and teaching at the Wella Studio, it is clear not all professional hairdressers are charging their worth – particularly for big colour changes. This affects their businesses but also the overall industry. Knowing our worth and charging appropriately for our time and expertise takes a lot of confidence and courage.

What do you love most about being a colourist?

It’s about the transformative element for me – What colour creation makes you most proud?

I am proud of my new colour service. I wanted to shake accentuating features, exploring and discovering a clients’ up the way our clients are presented with colour services rebellious nature and revealing a hidden creative flair. by using seasonal moodboards made up of a collection of It’s a never-ending journey of creativity. Colour is an lifestyle and shade images. This way the client can relate expression and clients are using it as a way of expressing to both the palettes, placement, the look and feel and their individuality. The possibilities are endless and emotions of a colour. It brings what an exciting time to be the colour to life and gives them a colourist with all of the JORDANNA’S MOODBOARDS… a chance to see the colouring technology at our fingertips technique from images during an era where people and moodboards rather than are more experimental than selecting a type of technique ever before. from a static menu. It has Where do you go for your become a huge talking point in colour inspiration? the salon and keeps us My main inspiration comes up-to-date with new techniques from other industries like and makes every colour service fashion, interior design, even more bespoke. art and beauty. Useful What advice would you give to platforms such as Pinterest, a trainee colourist?

Pantone, Instagram, Twitter, Master the basics because exhibitions and galleries play knowledge is power. Once the a huge role. My signature foundations of colour science projects are born from an are in place, you will be better obsession with a topic or a equipped to push the boundaries person such as Andy Warhol, and create unique work. Try Alexander McQueen or even different techniques and never Brexit. For shoots or show save colour notes as not one work, I need to have a theme service should be the and I fully immerse myself same. Adopt the finesse of into that world until my application so your client ideas or characters for hair feels like each brush stroke and art are born. Collaborating application is done with the with make-up artists, models, greatest care and skill. stylists and photographers 40 / hji.co.uk

e Colour v ti a e r C f o s r a e Y Over 40

r u o l o C Vivid el Formula Unique G

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Book a course in one of our studios London: +4480 36504700, Manchester: +44161 8342645, Dublin:+3531 4160900 uk.wellastore.com @wellahairuk #WellaColour

MEMBERSHIPS Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and networking opportunities.

Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to the Membership Lounges at HJ Live and Salon International

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL

Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH and win the new Fudge Professional Styling Range Professional has added four new Fhighudge styling products to its iconic range of performing styling products. The new additions include Fudge Professional Blow Dry Aqua Primer, Fudge Professional Aqua Shine Serum and Fudge Professional Curl Revolution Mist all featuring the new Weather-Shield technology. The technology creates a virtual umbrella for the hair, delivering all-day humidity resistance and frizz control, improved softness, smoothness and visible shine. The new Fudge Professional Matte Hed Mouldable is enhanced with a climate-control shield to provide all-day humidity protection and Flexi-Fibre technology to provide a flexible, medium hold.

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERN INSPIRING TODAY’ S HAIRDRESSER ATIONAL

Membership services If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below.

Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfi eld, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

£5|March 2020 |hji.co.u

k

WHAT DO APPRENTICES WANT? £5|March 2020|hji.co.uk

WHAT DO APPRENTICES WANT?

Three new HJ members will have the chance to win the four new Fudge Professional Styling products, which are worth £62.

Membership rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered offi ce North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

For more information about stocking Fudge Professional in your salon visit www.fudgeprofessional.com or call 0207 845 6333.

PRESENTS THE

LIVE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

SPONSORED BY

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 137 No. 65616 March 2020. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DE. www.hji.co.uk Classifi ed advertising prepress by Classifi ed Central Media.

Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 0203787 9001. © 2020 M Squared Media

43 / hji.co.uk

BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles.

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air extensions are not going anywhere as they give your clients the opportunity to leave your salon with an incredible transformation. Hair extensions are a fantastic way to catch a new clientele while expanding your revenue in the salon. The challenge for you is that even more salons are offering fitting services so going the extra mile is key to not only capturing new clients but also retaining existing ones.

Offering professional advice Providing an excellent quality product, whether synthetic or human, and an outstanding fitting service is a given. However, your clients are eager to keep their locks looking their best long after they have left your salon, which means professional haircare advice is essential.

The maintenance of hair extensions is a delicate procedure at the best of times, and using the right brush is crucial to keeping your client’s hair extensions strong and healthy.

Your clients should be encouraged to take particular care of untangling their hair extensions as this will keep their hairstyle looking natural for as long as possible.

HAIR EXTENSIONS HAVE A NEW HERO The ultimate detangling brush Using THE KNOT DR Detangling Brush can help your clients to get more for their money. THE KNOT DR’s unique Flexalite technology enables the brush bristles to flex through the hair, helping to smooth and detangle without pulling. The bristles are very gentle to ensure they can glide through the most delicate hair extensions or hair mesh.

For the most comprehensive detangling process, it is important to divide the head into smaller sections and to brush against the head, starting at the base of the head and working your way up.

Clients need to be acutely aware of where the bonds are within their hair extensions so they reduce the brushing tension over the bond area.

Advise clients to use a smaller paddle brush to address this area.

THE KNOT DR Pro Mini’s smaller pad and optimised bristle placement could be their best ally.

THE KNOT DR’s Detangling Brush is perfect for clients who want to maintain their hair extensions between salon visits

The Benefits of THE KNOT DR Detangling Brush • It can be used with both synthetic and human hair pieces • The bristles are soft enough to flow through the hair without friction so the brush will detangle the hair without adding static • The rubberised body offers the best grip for brushing hair extensions after washing • The brush is designed to stay comfortably in the hand for effortless detangling

THE KNOT DR is available in the UK and Ireland from your local wholesaler 46 / hji.co.uk

BRUSHES

with Every hair type has its own set of styling needs and there’s a brush or comb to help meet all of them. HJ asked a selection of hairdressers for their brush choices when it comes to styling different hair types, whether they’re embracing natural curls and waves, adding volume or keeping straight hair super-sleek

SHARON MALCOLM

47 / hji.co.uk

Thick Hair “If you use the wrong tools on thick hair, it can become frizzy and the style won’t last. For a long straight look on thick hair, I use a special lightweight paddle brush that curves with the head. It’s the best brush type for making long hair sleek and because the paddle is curved it can add a soft bend to the ends of the hair.

For something more voluminous, as in this image, it’s all about the technique, keeping the cuticle smooth and manipulating the hair into the style you want. If the client wants something softer, I use a large round brush. If they want something tighter that will last longer, I drop a barrel size and use a medium-sized brush.

For a softer style, take a section and use a large brush, then leave the brush in the hair while it cools and repeat all around the head. When hair has cooled remove the brushes then using your fingers, gently shake the hair to encourage movement and finish with a soft-bristle brush to ruche the hair and create texture.”

Sharon Malcolm, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing, Newtownards

BRUSHES

FOR WAVY HAIR… The ghd oval dressing brush is perfect for working with natural waves.

Anti-static bristles detangle without creating frizz, leaving hair with natural texture and shine.

SSING

Wavy Hair “We use many different types of brush and comb to create different results and levels of manageability for clients with wavy hair. It is always about understanding the curl pattern and what will happen to it when brushed. We often use wide-toothed combs to detangle and prepare the hair followed by either a ceramic or natural bristle brush to create smoothness, shine, control and manageability. Finally, I always love to use a soft-bristle dressing out brush to define and expand waves in a very natural and touchable way.”

Robert Eaton, creative director, Russell Eaton, Leeds and Barnsley

FOR STRAIGHT HAIR…

S SALONS

48 / hji.co.uk

G HITE, BLOG

The KS02 curved vent brush from Kent Brushes will stimulate the scalp, distributing natural oils throughout the hair for a brilliant and healthy shine.

Straight Hair It’s all about choosing the right brush for the job, especially when it comes to naturally straight hair. A good place to start is with a classic paddle brush for detangling. Remember thick hair needs a larger brush surface area. If it’s the silky-smooth poker straight style you’re going for, then use a soft bristle brush for fi nishing the look.

Try lightly spraying the brush with a soft -hold hairspray fi rst, then gliding the brush over the hair for a beautiful mirror fi nish. Or to give the client a diff erent look, just like the delicate waves we created in this image, blow-dry with a large round brush, preferably with natural bristles to add volume and movement.”

Rachel White, Bloggs Salons, Bristol

RACHEL W

The Original Tangle Teezer detangling brush adds a high-octane shine to straight hair, with its unique tooth configuration smoothing the cuticle for a super-sleek finish.

F&M HAIR DRE

ROBERT EATON

The Scalp Brush from Hercules Sägemann is designed to gently detangle as you brush thanks to the special positioning of its bristles.

The bristles also massage the scalp, helping to create a healthy shine, even on naturally wavy hair.

Loose Curls “When it comes to enhancing natural loose curls, a large-barrel brush is something you really should have in your kitbag. It allows you to create voluminous styles and enhance the natural curls of the client in question or alternatively smooth out the hair, creating straight, sleek styles and an even curl pattern. I use this type of brush regularly within the salon as it also allows even heat distribution through the pin holes, meaning you are not focusing on one solid section constantly, in turn reducing heat placement. This also cuts your drying time while leaving hair with a healthy shine.”

Kevin Paul Finnell, creative director, F&M Hairdressing, Glasgow

TH E

S P E E D. CO M FO RT. D E N MAN ST Y LI N G .

This hybrid fuses together the unmistakable styling pins of the Denman D3 with the soft air-cushioned wide body of the Denman Paddle Brush to create the definitive professional paddle.

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BRUSHES

FOR FINE HAIR…

THE KNOT DR Pro adds shine and health to fine and dry hair. The oversized bristle ball tips stimulate the scalp, promoting the production of sebum, which keeps hair super-glossy.

GINA CO NWAY

Add lustre and volume with the Alfa Italia Sessione Styling Brush. Available in five sizes, including a 53mm barrel, which is ideal for adding volume to longer hair.

Fine Hair “To create fabulous volume on fine hair, we have to work a little harder.

It’s essential to work on the base of a good haircut. I find my guests with fine hair manage their hair better when it’s shorter, which will also make hair look fuller. Too many layers will remove weight but some movement to add texture helps give the hair some life. I find a metal or ceramic round brush works best on fine hair, and size matters — the smaller sizes will build more volume and be easier to wrap the hair around. I also love a simple paddle brush which works well on shorter hair. Brushing the hair side to side, even over the parting and away from where the hair naturally sits will create body and life in the hair. My last tip is to always blow-dry in the opposite direction from where the hair naturally sits. Finally, just before you flip the hair give it a cold shot to set.”

Louise Garbutt, creative director, Gina Conway Aveda Salons

FOR THICK HAIR…

ES

TRISTAN EV

Balmain’s Ceramic Round Brush (43ml) has a ceramic coating for fast and even heat distribution, while releasing negative ions to close hair cuticles and lock in moisture.

Very Curly Hair “The most important rule is never to try and comb or brush very curly hair when it is dry. If you do, it will cause frizz and possibly breakage, as curly hair tends to be dryer and more brittle than straighter hair. I always use a damp towel after washing curly hair, gently patting hair so as not to remove all the moisture. When the hair is still damp, to detangle very curly hair, I would opt for a wide-tooth comb or a specialist detangling brush, running it through the wet hair until it is tangle-free and the curl pattern is evened out. For this look, hair was combed using a wide-tooth comb on wet hair to get rid of any tangles and conditioner was distributed throughout the hair using the same comb. The natural curl was defined by twisting hair right down to the scalp then releasing while blow-drying.

Hair was dried using a diffuser on a high-heat but low-speed setting.”

Tristan Eves, Tristan Eves, Petworth, West Sussex

FOR CURLY HAIR… The WetBrush Pro Original Detangler will detangle even the curliest hair, thanks to its exclusive Intellflex soft bristles.

The Denman Power Paddle Brush with its nylon pins will detangle wet curly hair and blow-dry with speed and comfort.

50 / hji.co.uk

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CUTTING EDGE All of the latest men’s hairdresser news to help you improve your grooming game

BARBEROLOGY GETS A REFRESH

Barberology, which is based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, has undergone a considerable renovation, including an extension that has created 1,700sqft of space. The extension was needed due to growing client demand and Barberology founder and director Adam Gore took the opportunity to give his salon a Peaky Blinders-inspired vibe.

He says: “The barbershop, which features a split-level salon space now boasts the exact old-school barbershop appeal and oozes the traditional, yet trend-led vibe that is in-line with the Barberology brand and its ethos.”

Barber Volunteer Appeal Independent cancer support charity Look Good Feel Better is appealing for barbers who are seeking to give something back within their local community. It is an ideal opportunity for those working in barbering who have a genuine interest in making a real difference to someone’s life, and at the same time gaining from the invaluable experience that being involved in these sessions can provide.

Clint Osborne from Clint’s Barbers

Ltd .

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Men’s clippers to suit every barber’s price point...

nt (U K)

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“When buying grooming chairs, look at the custom options so you can tailor each piece to complement your brand colours or interior design.”

P OF T • TI HE

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barbering industry if you’re near to a session get on board because it gives you a whole new perspective on life.”

The Look Good Feel Better Volunteer Appeal is looking for applicants with at least one year’s experience.

If you are interested in joining please call Look Good Feel Better on 01372 747 500 or visit www.lgfb.co.uk.

TH

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ON

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h rig W ie Kat

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IP

in Truro says: “When I was asked to be part of Look Good Feel Better, I jumped at the chance and didn’t even mind if I had to shut my shops for an afternoon.

Every one of us has been, or will be affected by cancer at some point in our lives so offering a few hours to chat with the brave men undergoing their own journey with this disease is nothing out of my week or month. I’d say to anyone in the

THREE OF THE BEST Wahl 100 Year Anniversary Clipper £119.19 ex. VAT

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Andis Skull Candy Cordless USPro Li Clipper £96.95

BaByliss PRO Cordless Super Motor Clipper £160

The Naked and the Dressed Explore the power of a good quality haircut with and without professional products Hair: Murray McRae at Stag Make-up: Stacey Mitchell Styling: Vixy Bell at Stewart Christie & Co. Photography: Andy Bell

54 / hji.co.uk

“Our collection demonstrates the versatility of hair. The black and white images showcase hair in its most natural form – we used a vent brush and hairdryer to style without the need for any products. We wanted to accentuate the effect of a good quality haircut on hair, free from any distraction. By contrast, the coloured images are highly stylised both in terms of the models’ hair and dress. We wanted to emphasise the difference styling can make to a haircut or a person’s look. The result is a collection of contrasts, which celebrates the unique and unpredictable nature of hair.”

Murray McRae at Stag

55 / hji.co.uk

We have

New

Furniture in our Southampton Showroom

I N - S A L O N

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FASHION

FUDGE RULES

the

The ultimate grungy after-party looks

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FASHION

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FASHION

Hair: Jonathan Andrew for Fudge Professional Make-up: Mario Brooksbank Styling: Oliver Vaughn Photography: Simon Songhurst

59 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

“The inspiration for the collection was the ultimate after-party that we all wish we’d been invited to. It has a high-end luxury feel and the hair has a grungy underground vibe to it. The shoot is about inclusivity, so we had a diverse mix of models and hair textures.”

Jonathan Andrew, global ambassador for Fudge Professional 60 / hji.co.uk

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express yourself

Don’t be afraid to experiment with colour

FASHION

62 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: Grace Dalgleish at Brooks & Brooks, London Styling: MartyStylist Photography: Jenny Hands

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FASHION

“Finding cool models on the street first sparks my inspiration.

This collection is about being playful with colour and intermixing tones to create interesting colour palettes. I like to experiment by playing with layering and melting different colours together to see what catches my eye. It’s always a fun process and this collection represents my expression with colour right now.”

Grace Dalgleish

64 / hji.co.uk

Re:Move

Yellow Vegan- riendly ormulations with Colour Protect Complex

WWW.FFORHAIR.COM | #HAIRFFORGOOD TO STOCK THE RANGE CONTACT SALES@FFORHAIR.COM

6th July, Brighton 9.30am to 5pm Tickets £25 inc VAT

A unique blend of learning, inspiration, brand experiences and networking – BARBERFEST is a chance to stock up on technical skills including cutting, clipper work, shaving, treatments and photography PLUS get the gen on best business practice. There are 20 leading suppliers and tons of learning opportunities along with our inspirational stage and HUB hangout.

Brands Pop-ups include: American Crew, Takara Belmont Axiom Men’s Grooming, Great British Barbering Academy, MVRCK by Mitch, NHBF, SPUK in association with Andis,

Brand sponsors:

Tickets now on sale. Follow for info IG and Twitter @modernbarbermag/FB Modern Barber/web barberfest.co.uk

FASHION

Real Women.

Real Confidence.

Real Hair.

Wearable and beautiful hair for your clients behind the chair 69 / hji.co.uk

“We created a versatile cute Parisian-inspired ‘bobette’ with tiny threads of subtle sunkissed lights” Andrew Barton

FASHION

The aim was to enhance the midi-length bob with creamy summer highlights and subtle layers throughout her hair.”

“The Headmasters Real Women, Real Confidence, Real Hair campaign reflects our ongoing mission to champion confidenceboosting hair on the high street. We wanted to create not only wearable hair but hairstyles that clients could aspire to have and would relate to. We wanted to empower and showcase the ambitious, confident and successful women leading the way in their careers as a representation of our customer base. The collection focuses on the key trends of the season, including the most Googled hair term balayage and versatile cute bob shapes through to maxi-length locks.”

Andrew Barton

Andrew Barton, Headmasters creative director 70 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

The focus for the colour was to enhance the natural brunette tones and emphasise the shine. We added face framing layers to enhance the natural movement in the hair.�

Andrew Barton 71 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: Headmasters creative director Andrew Barton and the Headmasters creative ambassadors Make-up: Caroline Barnes Styling: Gabriella Minchella Photography: Chloe Mallet

We created a tousled blowout with seamless layers and multi-tonal balayage.�

Andrew Barton

72 / hji.co.uk

CATEGORIES BEST TEAM

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CELEBRATE YOUR SUCCESS! Awards entries NOW OPEN. Easy online entry. Choose from nine categories that reflect your brilliance.

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BEST SHOP INTERIOR SPONSORED BY TAKARA BELMONT

BEST ALL ROUND BARBER (PHOTOGRAPHIC) SPONSORED BY MVRCK

Mark your diary for the Modern Barber Awards event on 5th July, Brighton Tickets £45pp available soon.

Book mark modernbarberawards.co.uk.

Follow FB Modern Barber Magazine/IG and Twitter @modernbarbermag for updates

BEST PHOTOGRAPHIC ENTRY SPONSORED BY AMERICAN CREW

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 10 -12 OCTOBER 2020 PRESENTED BY

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JOIN US Register your interest for early bird tickets now www.salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest

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HAIR: HOOKER & YOUNG ART TEAM PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL YOUNG

FASHION

Hair: Sophie Gibson and Jonathan Turner at Hooker & Young Make-up: Kirsten Baillie Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Michael Young

School

Yearbook A throwback to the 1970s “Our collection is based on a 1970s school yearbook. We wanted to make sure each photo had its own individuality, but we brought the collection together by giving each model 1970s-style wide and chunky glasses. The collection is all about having fun and creating a feeling of joy.�

Sophie Gibson and Jonathan Turner 76 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

77 / hji.co.uk

Enter now at www.hji.co.uk/hjs-british-hairdressing-business-awards or contact Lizzi Diggins at 020 3841 7365 SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown at 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk

#BHBA20 MONDAY,29TH JUNE 2020 | HILTON HOTEL, PARK LANE, LONDON

FASHION

2020.1

Sassoon continues its 65th anniversary celebrations by saluting its connection with The Bauhaus artistic movement, which is marking its 100-year anniversary

Sassoon and the bauhaus

79 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Creative direction: Mark Hayes, Sassoon international creative director Hair: Daniel McCourt, Silvia Salerno, Gareth Vance, Safaa El Nour, Danielle Harvey Colour: Carla Salceda, Caroline Spencer, Stuart Ross, Riess Hatcher Make-up: Daniel Kolaric Photography: Ray Kesham 80 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

81 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

“We discovered a group of unique trailblazers called the Bauhausmädels who were female Bauhaus students and early pioneers of gender equality. They courageously eluded traditional gender roles to build a different and creative future. Their spirit has directly influenced our feeling for hair now.”

Mark Hayes, Sassoon international creative director

82 / hji.co.uk

30/11/2020 PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

Is it your

Fo nt d t ils, ul s nd gul tions cont ct: Lizzi Diggins T l: 020 3841 7365 Em il: lizzi@hji.co.uk Alt n tiv l , pl s visit hji.co.uk/bha #BHA20 Closing d t fo

nt i s: 5pm, F id

19 Jun 2020

JW M iott G osv no Hous London, P k L n , London, W1K 7TN

FASHION

“Refined Traditions marries technical expertise and classic silhouettes to subvert and evolve.�

Simon Ellis

Refined Traditions

84 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

The

Spirit Collection Introducing Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks for S/S 2020 – Punk Spirit, Refined Traditions and Let It Bloom

Punk Spirit “Punk Spirit is all about self-expression – a new glamour for free thinkers.”

Simon Ellis, Schwarzkopf Professional international creative director 85 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

“Let it Bloom is an essay in modern romance with beautiful florals and soft vintage nostalgia.�

Simon Ellis

Let it Bloom

Hair: Schwarzkopf Professional international creative director Simon Ellis, Schwarzkopf Professional global ambassadors Jack Howard, Lesley Jennison, Tyler Johnston, Joana Neves and Edoardo Paludo Make-up: Helge Branscheidt Styling: Kim Howells Photography: Simon Emmett 86 / hji.co.uk

To view the full range visit salonsupplies.co.uk or call us today for more information on 0844 3356 121

T HE HOT LIST

Custom colour

Spray away

Hair alchemy

Just Color from Alter Ego Italy is a new semi-permanent colour range with natural, elegant and vibrant shades. The gel formulas are interchangeable and can be personalised for each client.

Keratin Complex Keratin Obsessed Spray is an all-in-one treatment that delivers instant results. It revitalises and intensifies hair colour, while preventing breakage and frizz. RRP £27

Neäl & Wølf Miracle Blow-Dry Mist is designed to repel water from the hair for a quick blow-dry.

The mist contains shea butter and avocado oil to boost shine and strengthen locks. From £7.50

Longer locks

Perfect treat

Camera-ready

Yellow Easy Long is a new range that uses Tahitian algae to promote faster hair growth and give hair a stronger appearance. The range includes a shampoo, conditioner and hair tonic. From £11.95

Saco RE-Build is a new treatment for the perfect blow-dry. It protects, repairs and reinforces dry and damaged hair to leave your client’s locks smooth and shiny.

From £20

R+Co Television is a hair mask designed to transform dry hair into camera-worthy perfection.

The mask includes coconut oil and murumuru butter to nourish hair and improve elasticity. RRP £40

Straighten out

Hydration time

Bring back moisture

The Electric London Electric WT-2 Professional Straightening Iron features a digital temperature control and titanium plates that are designed to glide through your client’s hair. RRP: £95

Joico HydraSplash includes a shampoo, conditioner, mask and leave-in treatment for lightweight hydration. Plus, the Joico Zero Heat Air-Dry Styling Crèmes deliver a chic air-dried result.

Moo Hair Miracle Hair Mask contains marula oil and Icelandic moss to rehydrate hair and lock in moisture. The formula repairs and strengthens locks, nourishes ends and banishes frizz. RRP: £25

88 / hji.co.uk

Pollution protector

Eco credentials

Ultimate blonde

Revlon Professional Magnet fights against environmental aggressors.

The range includes the Micellar Cleanser, Anti-Pollution Restoring Mask and the Anti-Pollution Daily Shield. From £17

Hercules Sägemann has unveiled new packaging made from 100% organic material and featuring the brand’s ‘100 natural’ tagline.

The combs are handcrafted from renewable natural rubber.

Wella Professionals Illumina Color has added four new shades to its cool blonde collection. The shades 10/81, 9/19, 9/59 and 8/93 are designed to lighten, tone and neutralise cooler blonde colours.

Sweet spritzing

Repair your hair

Press play

Eleven Australia Miracle Spray Hair Treatment is the brand’s same multi-tasking treatment in a new spray format. It controls frizz, adds shine, moisturises and prevents split ends.

Rossano Ferretti Dolce Collection is a new hair care range from Great Lengths. The products are created to work with Great Lengths hair extensions and include a shampoo, conditioner and mask.

Goldwell has introduced four new metallic shades to its semipermanent ELUMEN PLAY colour range. The shades include Metallic Silver, Metallic Petrol, Metallic Berry and Metallic Purple.

Endless curls

Next generation

New #Hairbesties Heroes

Waveformers by HairFlairhas two new products for creating waves, including Beach Flair for gentle waves and Ocean Flair for bouncy waves as well as stylish clips for holding waves in place. From £15.95

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Guy Tang’s #Mydentity has unveiled the #MyConfidant Color Securing Shampoo & Conditioner, #MyHairLube Hair Finishing Lubricant, Shadow Ash Collection and a balayage kit. From £14

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INTERIORS

T

he Hair Movement was opened in May 2018 because its founders wanted a real-life working salon environment to trial and test their brand’s products. Benjamin Shipman and his two brothers own the professional smoothing brand Kebelo, which rebranded to The Hair Movement last year and scissor brand KASHO. For the trio, it made complete sense to open a salon where new products could be field tested by clients and marketing content could be created on a day-to-day basis in a fully functional salon.

The Hair Movement prides itself on bringing an entirely new salon experience to the London suburb of Sidcup by offering a warm and welcoming environment where guests can relax and feel pampered after a busy day.

Before The Hair Movement moved into its current premises, the space was empty for four years so there were no walls, floors, plumbing or electricity.

“We were attracted to the unit before the building was even built. It is right by the train station with incredible footfall, facing a main road, but still set back to give a sense of privacy,” explains co-founder Benjamin.

He adds: “The full glass front gives incredible marketing potential for the salon, but as the façade is raised a metre from the ground, it doesn’t give our guests a feeling that they are sitting in a fishbowl.”

Benjamin could see the local council were investing in the area to improve

CONCEPT SPACE the

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INTERIORS BENJAMIN’S TOP TIPS • Have a registered project manager A good project manager will save you time, money and materials. They get discounts which are passed on to you so this pays for the cost of having a project manager in the first place.

• Spend to save money Using cheaper and less durable material often ends up costing more money further down the line, both in replacing materials and labour costs.

• Be true to your vision Designers and trades people are there temporarily, but you and your team will live and thrive in the space, so make sure you follow your vison and find inspiration wherever you can.

Name: The Hair Movement Address: 114 Station Road, Sidcup How many staff: 8 Budget: £120,000 Furniture: Bespoke, REM, MADE, Fat Boy, Design House Stockholm

The Hair Movement prides itself on providing guests with a five-star experience while inviting them to be the first to trial and test new products amenities and parking which made it the perfect home for The Hair Movement brand.

Designer and project manager Annika Nott from ig. Design & Interiors made Benjamin’s vision a reality with a building process that was easier than he anticipated. “She constructed an ambitious but realistic work schedule and assembled a trades team that delivered in that time frame, so it took only four months for the salon to be complete.”

The space was designed to be multifunctional so it can be adapted to accommodate focus groups, training sessions, video and photoshoots, while offering guests a five-star salon experience.

Benjamin says: “The space was created to accommodate our philosophy on what modern

hairdressing is truly about, which is 20% hair services and 80% relationship building and delivering an exceptional experience. All of our guests have a thorough consultation, which is conducted face-to-face in comfortable armchairs, instead of having barriers and talking with guests through a mirror.”

The colour scheme was inspired

by Scandinavian design, as Benjamin and his brothers had spent several years living in Sweden. The design is modern and simplistic, combining both an industrial and natural style with cement, wood and white paint.

Being eco-conscious was of major importance to Benjamin so the electrics and lighting had a bigger initial outlay, but the day-to-day running costs are substantially lower, which is in-keeping with the brand’s 91 / hji.co.uk

values. The design and layout of the salon also allows the styling stations to get a maximum amount of light, which ensures clients get the best results from their service.

Benjamin and his team decided to keep the original exposed cement pillars in the salon, covering some of them with living moss to give the salon an earthy feel. Yet, this is contrasted with the 3D textured tiles, finishing off the backwash walls with a pigmented matte black paint.

The use of natural materials and greenery makes the salon feel modern and minimalistic. In saying this, the additional textures and the incredible lighting plan make the salon extremely warm and welcoming for those wishing to relax in a suburban haven after a long hard day working in the centre of London.

In association with HJ Direct

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Contact the team: T: 0345 340 3550 E: info@hjdirect.co.uk

CAREERS

Andrew Trott-Barn

The Soap Star Guru Andrew Trott-Barn is the art director of Advanced Pro Salon Colour Code and is the go-to stylist for many of the Manchester-based soap stars What was your route into the hair industry?

I knew from a young age that I was interested in hair. I went to a local college and I was fortunate enough to take to it naturally. Before I knew it, I was colouring in my local salon – I still have those original clients to this day (let’s just say it’s a long time ago).

Can you tell us about your present role?

I am the art director and brand ambassador for Colour Code. I also work freelance which includes working in a salon, doing photoshoots, shows and red-carpet events. I’ve just worked at the National Television Awards and styled Melanie Sykes and Alison King. I also work regularly on the Inside Soap Awards, the BAFTAs and the TV Choice Awards and I’ve styled multiple actresses from Coronation Street. I love each and every part of my role for diff erent reasons.

I love seeing my regular clients, I also love the on-set dynamic of a photoshoot and the glitz and glam of a red carpet event and working with corporate partners such as Matalan, InTu and Magnet Kitchens. I also off er an all-day bridal service, which includes a hair and make-up entourage and multiple styling if requested.

What are the pros and cons of your role?

The pro of working with Colour Code is that I’m helping to develop the

brand. I have seen it grow so much in a short time and I’m excited to see where the journey will take us in future. I love working with regular clients and making them feel special by off ering them diff erent looks and also just generally catching up. It still humbles me to see my work in a photoshoot and on the red carpet. I don’t think it will ever truly sink in, but I just go into work mode and get the job done. The main con for me is fi nding the time to fi t everything in. I love all of it and I’m very fortunate to be in this position, so I want to do it all when the off ers come in, but it’s about fi nding the right balance.

What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

For me, I don’t believe there are any secrets to establishing yourself in the industry. It’s purely hard graft and letting your work speak for itself.

Keeping up-to-date on current styles and fashion is the key to staying ontrend and current. You should never think you are above anyone else. If you respect people in the industry, they will do the same back to you.

What are your tips for someone who aspires to have a career like yours?

It’s all about working hard. Build your portfolio and don’t be afraid to take pictures of your clients, as this shows your skills as a hairdresser. Stay upto-date with fashion, trends and also don’t be scared to step outside your comfort zone because this is what helps us grow. This industry is all about constantly learning so take every opportunity you can.

What’s your styling philosophy?

There are so many diff erent styles I like for diff erent reasons, so it depends on the brief. I love texture, complementing a client’s features and I also love makeovers. I love showing people a new look for themselves and seeing how happy they are with the results. It’s all about knowing your products and how they can help you to achieve a desired look.

What are your favourite accounts on Instagram?

I love @justinandersoncolour and of course @advancedprosalon.

What’s next for you and your career?

What challenges have you faced in your career so far?

I’m from a small town in Derbyshire so when I came to Manchester, I had to establish myself. I do love a challenge so I worked hard on my creativity and explored how I could break the rules to create new looks.

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I’m excited to see where my role with Advanced Pro Salon and Colour Code goes and how we can grow together. I want to continue what I’m doing and grow my industry presence. I love what I do and that’s the drive everyone should have – no goal is too big as long as you work hard for it.

JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE

jobs.hji.co.uk/register

RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376

Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Wanted front of house team member for a bustling Chelsea beauty salon.

As the front of house you are the face of the establishment and as such require excellent customer service and professionalism.

Managing front of house entails: O Hosting the salon floor.

O Always presenting professionally and punctually.

O Securing and controlling the bookings.

O Detailing administration duties.

O Providing excellent customer service.

O Maintaining daily communications.

O Booking meetings.

O Directing staff on day to day operations.

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

Wanted Colourists team members for a bustling Chelsea salon.

Wanted Stylists team members for a bustling Chelsea salon.

We are hiring excellent Stylists, Colorists and All-rounders. You are required to be highly professional and passionate about your job and be a great team player.

We are hiring excellent Stylists, Colorists and All-rounders. You are required to be highly professional and passionate about your job and be a great team player.

Please apply with your CV’s to info@vinokurov.co.uk and have your interview and trade test arranged asap.

We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you soon!

Please apply with your CV’s to info@vinokurov.co.uk and have your interview and trade test arranged asap.

We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you soon!

Hairdresser chair for rent located in London Please contact me on t_igor@hotmail.co.uk if you are interested.

Minimum 3 days per week, £50 per day – this price is a discount for 6 month’s rent, normal price is £100 per day.

Towels Magazines Tea, Coffee Trolley Sugar Personal Washing Point Drinking Water Personal Hairdresser Chair Job types: Full-time, Part-time

Technician / Stylist Banstead, Surrey Are you living in Surrey, working in a London salon and tired of commuting?

We have a vacancy for a creative technician/stylist who has comprehensive experience in all aspects of hairdressing.

5 days per week

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Salary – £40,000 per annum Call Jane on 07730678950 Call Clifford on 07789733339 Applications via email can be made to james@cliffordaustin-hunt.com

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RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

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CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

PROPERTY

JOBS

NEW Putney / Richmond, S W London. High Class Hair / Beauty Salon (10 positions). Lease. Two Flats. £6,000wk. High Profit.

Retirement sale. £59,000 REDUCED PRICE Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents).

Retirement Sale. £18,500 Addlestone area, Surrey. Very Smart Salon in parade. S/C Two Bed Flat. £1,750wk. Five days. Retirement Sale. £360,000 F’hold Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. £4,200wk (5 days). A/C’s show £38,000 Net. £72,000 Newbury area. Very Smart Hair and Beauty. Good Lease. Superb location. Well fitted. £4,250wk. Very fairly priced £29,950.

Wye Valley Country Town. Flagship Salon. Main street. Spacious Well Fitted Unit. Two Bed Flat. Tde £5,500wk (ex VAT). 5 days. £495,000 F’hold or £45,000 on Lease NEW Wealthy Thames Valley / Chilterns (near High Wycombe). Good Class Hair Salon. Parade. Good Lease. Three Bed Maisonette. £2,750wk. £35,000

TOWELS

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INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens

T Desperate housewife

“There’s always a narrative behind my images and this one had a 1950s ‘desperate housewife’ feel.

We dressed the hair out in front of the camera and our photographer Jenny Hands snapped this amazing image on the fi rst take.”

e s o r b m A n Darre The multiple award-winning hairdresser, 2015 British Hairdresser of the Year and D&J Ambrose co-founder, shares his six all-time favourite creations W Ethereal

“This was one of my shots that was awarded British Hairdresser of the Year Year in in 2015, 2015, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional.

The collection showcased strong and ethereal women. This style has rows of texture and knots teamed with braids and tonal shading.

Jenny Hands made the collection look more like paintings than photographs.”

T Morning after vibe

“This image was taken on a test shoot for a modelling agency. We set up by a large window so there was lots of natural light. We kept the hair wet and twisted it to add texture. The model was just getting into position and my photographer Ben Madgwick captured this ‘morning aft er’ vibe."

T The party shoot

X Hat hair

“Trevor Leighton shot this beautiful picture for one of my winning Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year collections.

I used small cuttings of hair and spray-painted colour to create hat-like structures that were inspired by 1960s Vogue images.”

X Light reflections

“This image was taken from my first rstBritish Britishnominee nomineecollection. collection.

This shot plays on the reflection ection of light. The stunning white blonde shade gives the image a pureness, and this is contrasted with the edginess that comes from the cut and I love that unexpected mix.” mix.”

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“The elevator shot was photographed by Jenny Hands. It was about freedom of speech and the unveiling of strong, leading women who show their true expressions. This was without doubt one of my most inspiring ‘dream team’ moments – it was like having a party for two days!”

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