HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
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Scan to watch the #HairTheLove video now
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February 2020
£5|February 2020|hji.co.uk
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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
WHAT'S HOT FOR
0 2 0 2 S/S
The L’Oréal Colour Trophy is the longest running live hairdressing competition in the world. Celebrating 65 years, we are dedicated to all that is great in our industry – the artistry, the mastery and most importantly YOUR talent. Now 111 years old, L’Oréal Professionnel was founded on professional hair colour, advancing the boundaries of breakthrough innovation and pushing the industry forward. The L’Oréal Colour Trophy invites you to make your mark in 2020 by entering this historic year of the competition.
This is history in colour. This is your life in colour.
ENTER NOW ONLINE* LOREALCOLOURTROPHY.COM Deadline for entries: 24th February 2020, 5pm Make sure you consult the rules within the competition Terms and Conditions!
*Open to UK residents aged 16+ (and up to aged 25 for the STAR award category) entering as part of a salon team (except for the College award category where entrants must not be working in a salon and can be ROI residents). One entry per individual across all categories. Entries must be uploaded onto www.lorealcolourtrophy.com by 24/02/20. Must use only L’Oréal Professionnel products, entry photos must be in colour and no more than one year old. Winning team (or individual in the case of the College Award category) receives the 2020 Award for the relevant category and the chance to attend other hairdressing events/trips dependent on category. See www.lorealcolourtrophy.com for full details and T&Cs. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.
@LOREALPRO #LCT20 #LOREALPROUK
Image: UK Grand Final 2019 Hair by: Jo Cree Brown, Creative Director, Special Projects for Trevor Sorbie International
CONTENTS
February 2020 News
06
Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up
12
#HairTheLove Learn more about L’Oréal Professionnel’s campaign
Business
14
Big Debate Should you name a salon after yourself?
16
Grow Your Business How to conduct a SWOT analysis on your salon
Features
24
HJ Live London Who to see at this year’s ExCeL London show on 29 & 30 March
27
Extensions 101 Trend predictions and how to answer difficult client questions
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
18
Meet The Artist British Hairdresser of the Year Robert Eaton shares his must-try techniques
44
Fashion Two British nominee collections and four exclusive fashion collections
12
JAMES EARNSHAW FOR AMIKA
Inspiration
74 Regulars
32
Membership Off er Win The Knot Dr Pro Brushes in this issue
82
Interiors Take a tour around Bad Apple Hair in Stratford-upon-Avon
38
Men’s trends Two exclusive fashion collections
85
The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month
Careers Simon Ellis identifies issues facing our industry
80
90
Life Through a Lens Mark Leeson reveals his most-loved images
4 / hji.co.uk
Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360
40 Managing Director Mark Moloney
HAIR
] Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363
DESMOND
MURRAY
LE BAD APP
82
We l c o m e
Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377 Contributor Keysha Davis
H
appy Valentine’s Day! You’ll see from our front cover that we’re celebrating L’Oréal Professionnel’s #HairTheLove campaign this month. Make sure you scan the QR code to watch the video and on page 12 you’ll find our full interview with L’Oreal Professional Products Division UK & Ireland Group managing director Béatrice Dautzenberg. Our first live show is almost upon us – HJ Live London 2020. If you haven’t done so already book your tickets today at http://hji.co.uk/HJSTAGES. The show is on 29 & 30 March at ExCeL London and the tickets are completely free. We have two live stages – HJ Stage in Association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and the Modern Barber Stage. You can see some of the most incredible names in the British hairdressing and barbering industry and learn new techniques. Head to page 24 to see some of the names who will be in action over the two days. In this issue we are highlighting your clients’ burning hair extensions questions. Plus, we have a big debate on whether you should name a salon after yourself. We’ll be taking this debate online so we look forward to hearing the reasoning behind your chosen salon name or brand.
Intern Lydia Halsey
Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366
Deputy Sales Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367
HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
Account Manager Thomas Cox thomas@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373
Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365
Enjoy the issue!
WHAT'S HOTFOR FOR
S/S 2020 On the cover: Hair: Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY, London Make-up: Lan Nguyen Grealis Styling: Veronica Greenhill Photography: Jack Eames 5 / hji.co.uk
Events and Sales Administrator Melinda Park melinda@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374 Design and Production Jaqui Palmer Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061
INDUSTRY NEWS The Phorest Salon Vision for 2020
H
J travelled to Dublin last month for the annual Phorest Salon Owners Summit. Over 500 salon and spa owners attended the educational event to discover how to create a 2020 vision for their salons. Phorest CEO Ronan Perceval opened the show by explaining salons and spas are one of the few spaces that still provide a personal connection. He said: “With technology seeping ever more into our lives – this rare personal connection becomes even more
important and we as an industry need to understand how to leverage this when looking forward to the next decade. Here are the three key lessons from the event...
• Think like a start-up Marcus Allen, the man behind the growth of Urban Retreat concentrated on the challenges facing the hairdressing industry. He explained it’s vital to step back and look at things in a different light. How can you disrupt the status quo and
Sassoon has announced Debbie Webster as Sassoon Global’s New CEO Debbie has over 40 years’ experience in the industry and her business insight, unique ability to sense opportunity and strong understanding of the Sassoon brand, makes her ideally suited to accelerate the growth and transformation of Sassoon in 2020 and beyond. “I love the spirit and passion of Sassoon and I’m thrilled to accept this position to continue the incredible legacy that Vidal created,” said Debbie. “On our 65th anniversary Sassoon is once again an independent company. Under Debbie’s stewardship Sassoon is in safe and transformative hands and will continue to be one of the truly great hair brands in the world. We are fortunate to gain a leader with Debbie’s experience, talent and vision,” said Michael Reinstein, founder and chairman of Regent LP.
L’Oréal Professionnel Launches an Online Partner Shop L’Oréal Professionnel has launched an online ordering platform exclusively for the hairdressing community. The online shop stocks colour and retail products from L’Oréal Professionnel and Kèrastase. The website is customised to make
6 / hji.co.uk
shopping simple and fast. The aim is to improve the lives of busy L’Oréal stockists as the site can be used across all devices. Plus, you can add products to a favourites list and benefit from one-click reordering and next day delivery before 11am. Go to lorealpartnershop.com/uk for more information.
SPONSORED BRANDS
create something new for your clients and your business? Schedule a date in the calendar away from the salon to brainstorm new ideas.
• “Your team is your heart” Ken Picton, president of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, told the audience the most clicked page on his salon website is the staff/team page. This means you should give your team enough time to do each client properly as clients value the time spent with their hairdresser. It’s also important to praise your staff. Start each day with some coins in one pocket and move each one across
to the other pocket every time you compliment a member of staff.
VISH GROWS SUSTAINABLE SALON BASE
• “Instagram can make you money” Jamie Dana, a hairdresser and educator shared her insights on using Instagram to grow your business. She pointed out that Instagram is about appealing to your dream client. You should create content that will speak to your client on a personal level because people make their buying decisions with their emotions. Be intentional with what you post and base your photos and content around what your dream client would want to see from your salon brand.
Headmasters Champions he annual Headmasters T Awards took place at Battersea Evolution last month to celebrate the company’s creative and business-savvy stars. New York, New York was the theme for this year’s ceremony and guests were treated to a spectacular show by the Headmasters Artistic Team with creative direction by Andrew Barton. The show paid homage to the diversity of the US city’s music and fashion with a Broadway musical, salsa, krumping and drag extravaganza. The event featured 17 awards
in total ranging from business to creativity. Award winners included Headmasters Paddington for Salon of the Year and Holly Anne Facer and Kim Shiel from Headmasters Reading for the Ultimate Image of the Year. Headmasters CEO Raju Raymond said: “With so many talented hairdressers, we want to continue to support and recognise their incredible work and to celebrate their successes together. I am incredibly proud and humbled to work with such a dedicated team.” For the complete list of winners go to hji.co.uk.
7 / hji.co.uk
G
ina Conway and Gary Ingham salons have joined the growing list of sustainable salons using Vish. The soft ware system that enables salons to accurately manage how colour is being used, eliminating waste, increasing profi ts and improving sustainability regardless of the colour brand used. Sean Spence, co-owner at Gary Ingham said: “We’re so excited to be one of the fi rst salons in the UK to be using Vish. Colour usage and wastage is the one area we fi nd diffi cult to analyse and using technology to empower ecological change is the future. Aft er just a few days we’re already seeing a change in our technicians’ behaviour and we’re looking forward to a long-term reduction in our waste, the impact on our environment, and of course product costs!” Tom Bentley-Taylor Vish’s MD said: “The data shows that team members oft en use two to three times more colour than needed, so ensuring the team aren’t wasting or over applying colour is vital for a profi table business whilst ensuring the minimum amount of colour gets into the environment.” Gina Conway added: “We are totally committed to sustainability with Vish and use it to reduce our colour waste, save water, save resources and save money.” For more information about Vish go to getvish.co.uk or email info@getvish.com.
NEWS
Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates
Are you the Next Revlon Visionary? The search for the Revlon Professional Visionaries 2020 team members has begun. There are 12 finalist slots available and entries are open until 15 February. The 12-month programme, led by Revlon Professional global artistic ambassador Mark Leeson, is designed to let members get creative whilst enjoying hands-on experience from industry experts. Mark Leeson believes the team is a great opportunity for aspiring hairdressing talent. Revlon Professional and American Crew UK and IE general manager Lisa Jackson added: “At Revlon Professional we always want to support emerging talent, especially from our own industry.” Erin McGlade from Strand Hair who was a 2019 Visionaries team member said: “It was filled with so many amazing moments and opportunities. One memory that stands out is when
we were asked to go to Italy for a hair show. I just couldn’t believe it – it was an emotional rollercoaster!” Go to page 68 for the exclusive Revlon Visionaries 2019 collection.
S
chwarzkopf Professional is on the hunt for ambitious hairdressers to volunteer for its Shaping Futures initiative. Over the course of six weeks the volunteers will visit an SOS Children’s Village in the Philippines to teach young people a new trade so they can build a sustainable career. Schwarzkopf Professional national PPS manager UK & IRE Kay Brady said: “Becoming a Shaping Futures volunteer is a fantastic opportunity for skilled hairdressers who want to give back and make a real difference to people’s lives.” Welcome events for those interested will be taking place in January and February. For more information email diane.fulton@henkel.com.
Curls, long lengths and streaks were spotted on the runway at London Fashion Week Men’s. Curls for days
Thick and luscious locks were the theme on the Velsvoir runway. The looks were created by TONI&GUY artistic director Louis Maharaj with label.m Curl Define Foam, Matt Paste and Fashion Edition Volumising Paste.
The Hair & Beauty Charity’s New 2020 President
Shaping Futures Volunteers Search
AW20 Trends Update
Samantha Grocutt will continue the role of president for The Hair & Beauty Charity following her co-presidency with the outgoing co-president Philip Sharp of ASP. Samantha said: “Our industry is tremendously giving and it’s important to remember not everyone is in a fortunate position.” She added: “2020 is a big year for us. We need to raise at least £175,000 to support those in need and we are in desperate need of support from companies and individuals who are working in the professional hair and beauty sector.” Go to hairandbeautycharity.org for more information.
1990s streaks
Chunky streaks were seen at the Pronounce show. Kalle Eklund used R+CO Motorcycle Flexible Gel and Wall St Strong Hold Gel to create the 1990s cool girl look. Long locks
Lengthy hair hit the runway at the Charles Jeffrey show. John Vial created this wet textured look working with Revlon Professional Style Masters California Days Glory Waves spray. 8 / hji.co.uk
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SHUTTERSTOCK
Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news
Apprentice takeover T
his month sees the UK celebrate National Apprenticeship Week (3-7 February). Events for apprentices will take place up and down the country and we will be promoting this with dedicated content to attract new apprentices as well as inspire your current ones.
2 MONTHS TO GO‌ Until entries for the British Hairdressing Business Awards close! You have until 3 April 2020 to get your entries in so go to bhba.evessiocloud.com/bhba2020 today to choose your category and compile your online entry.
20 20 GOALS
2019
10 / hji.co.uk
@hji
@hairdressersjournal
Hairdressers Journal
The 2020 awards season has well and truly started in style. From Zoë Kravitz’s chic pixie cut at the Golden Globes to Zendaya’s super long braids at the Critics’ Choice Awards, we have already been treated to a variety of looks that you can use for inspiration behind the chair. Stay up-to-date with the latest trends on our social channels and website.
@hjinteractive
#HJColourReel Shout Out
@v iki sc iss or ha nd s
@georgiabellhair
AWARDS SEASON IS HERE! @s pe ct ru m ha irc om
pa ny
@kelsssimpsonhair
@blo gg ss al on s
It’s not too late to make 2020 your best business year yet! Head to our Business channel on our website to find useful guides on how to ramp up your business skills this year or to create a step-by-step plan for that big change you’ve always wanted to make. 11 / hji.co.uk
@wg.sassoon
#HAIRTHELOVE
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Scan to watch the #HairTheLove video now
#HairTheLove 8IBU JT UIF )BJS 5IF -PWF $BNQBJHO The Hair The Love campaign is a moment to celebrate, recognise and share love and thanks for the amazing work that hairdressers do every day. Hairdressers touch and transform peoples’ lives. The Hair The Love video is about showing how hairdressers play an integral role in key life moments. From giving you confidence after taking time off work for maternity or paternity, or for that important interview, being by your side for celebratory occasions like your wedding day, to being a pillar of support during difficult moments. Beyond the difference that hairdressers are making in peoples’ lives every day, it is important that we, as an industry, take time to appreciate the impact that hairdressing has on other areas. For example, economically, with hairdressing services being the single largest contributor to the beauty economy, and accounting for the largest proportion of jobs at 33 per cent (British Beauty Council report June 2019). From a social and community 12 / hji.co.uk
#HAIRTHELOVE
perspective, salons play an important role by offering employment and career opportunities, as well as more broadly on topics such as sustainability where salons can help to inspire behaviour and lifestyle choices amongst their clients. Salons really are a pillar within their community.
8IBU XBT UIF JOTQJSBUJPO CFIJOE UIF )BJS 5IF -PWF $BNQBJHO L’Oréal as a group was born in partnership with hairdressers. 110 years ago L’Oréal Professionnel, the founding brand of the Group, was created in collaboration with hairdressers. Now, 110 years on, together with all of our hairdressing partners, we continue to pioneer the development of the industry. We started Hair The Love in 2018 and it was inspired by this pioneering spirit and love for the industry. We felt Valentine’s Day was the right moment to share our declaration of love for all hairdressers. The actual concept behind the content as it is on Valentine’s Day, is a Love Letter from a client to a hairdresser and one that is representative of all hairdressers and how they play an important role in every client’s life, and are there for key life moments. We asked people for real stories as we wanted it to be relatable and authentic. What inspired us to create Hair The Love was a desire to shout about our incredibly unique industry. Collectively we need to show people what an incredible profession hairdressing is to continue to attract the next generation. Sally Brooks is a great example of how we need to animate our industry. We have been screening Sally’s documentary ‘The Journey To My Destination’ for hair colleges around the country, and now with Hair The Love, we hope to continue this message and reach parents, teachers, students, everyone, and inspire them to understand more about what our industry has to off er.
8IZ EPFT -n0SʡBM 1SPGFTTJPOBM 1SPEVDUT %JWJTJPO CFMJFWF JU JT JNQPSUBOU UP DIBNQJPO IBJSESFTTJOH JO UIJT XBZ We know there has been a decline in the number of apprentices in recent years. Last year we saw a decline of 13 per cent according to the National Hair & Beauty Federation, so we need to drive momentum for the future prosperity of the industry. We also know that there are still misconceptions around hairdressing as being a ‘second choice’ career or one that isn’t off ered as an option in schools as it is seen as ‘non-academic’. We want this to change. Hairdressing is a hugely skilled profession in terms of the commitment, the dexterity,
chemistry, creativity, artistry and more, but we oft en overlook the soft skills and intense people skills required as a hairdresser to support clients through their life journey. Hairdressers form life-long bonds and friendships with clients. They have the ability to completely transform a person’s confi dence and how they feel emotionally, and this is so powerful and special. Ultimately, we wanted to create something that captured the role that hairdressers play in key life moments in a contemporary and shareable way.
8IZ IBWF ZPV DIPTFO UP QBSUOFS XJUI )+ GPS UIF DBNQBJHO It is important for us to spread the word amongst the hairdressing community and Hairdressers Journal International has
always been a supportive partner and an incredible champion for hairdressing. Sharing in our Hair The Love message, HJ has a powerful voice that can help us to amplify and reach as many hairdressers as possible.
$BO ZPV UFMM VT XIBU UIF XPSET XJUIJO UIF MFUUFS NFBO UP ZPV For me personally, as my career has always been connected with hairdressers, the words of the letter truly touch and resonate with me. When we think about the people that we journey through our lives with, our hairdresser is someone who is beside us for big life moments, we trust them with our personal identity, and it is a relationship like no other.
How can clients and hairdressers spread the #HairTheLove message... We wanted to create a piece of content that is inclusive for everyone, something that both hairdressers and clients can connect with and relate to - and we hope this is what makes it shareable. The more people see it, the more impact it can have, so we want people to use it. We want hairdressers to feel proud and loved and to know that they are making a difference every day and for clients to appreciate the dedication and passion that goes into being a hairdresser. We hope that all hairdressers will feel inspired to reach out to their local communities, schools and colleges, as we cannot do it alone. Together as a united industry we are much stronger. The sentiment of Hair The Love is for every hairdresser and every client, not just on Valentine’s Day but every day. 13 / hji.co.uk
BUSINESS
The Debate
Should you name a salon after yourself? Two industry experts debate the pros and cons of having a self-named brand Yes
No
“Don’t confuse putting your name over the door with a big ego.”
“I believe the name of our brand will help us to grow organically.”
“I believe memorable salons tend to be named after their founders – Trevor Sorbie, Charles Worthington, Nicky Clarke, Errol Douglas – the list is endless. This is because you are ensuring your brand has an identity – putting a face to a brand gives you credibility and builds trust. It shows that someone is passionate about their business and is accountable for the service they receive. It also inspires your team – they know that your name is over the door and your personal reputation is on the line if they don’t work to a high standard. Having an eponymous salon means the work you put into building a strong reputation translates into loyal clients who know what you do and associate your work with your brand. Whenever I’m in the press we get calls from new clients who found us easily and feel engaged with our brand. When you meet people or appear on stage, they associate your name with your work so if you eat, sleep and breathe your craft it makes sense to use your name. Establishing a strong salon name also attracts applications from staff who want to be aligned with you. This means you can deliver your own brand of training. My team has been nominated and won many awards, including the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and most recently Alex Morton won Newcomer of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Don’t confuse putting your name over the door with having a big ego – there is plenty of space to nurture and grow talent and when your team succeed, your brand name grows as well. It’s just a good marketing strategy!”
Jamie Stevens, Jamie Stevens London salon owner
“When I launched Hare & Bone this is a question that I gave a lot of thought. I also discussed it at length with my friends and colleagues. In my opinion it is not necessary to do so and in fact there are lots of benefits to not calling a salon after yourself. I wanted to create a collective space that would encourage a strong team culture whilst allowing individuals to grow and develop their own career paths within the industry. Creating a brand name rather than using my own gave us the opportunity to express the salon’s identity at the earliest opportunity. I believe it empowers our team to really contribute to and immerse themselves in our brand’s ethos and core values. It has always been our intention to grow the brand organically within London and potentially globally. By trading under Hare & Bone rather than an individual’s name there is the potential to do so without the expectation of always seeing ‘Sam Burnett’ at any given location. We did however attach the strapline “A Sam Burnett Salon” to the logo and branding, this was to make the salon sound more established in the early days and to help promote the salon with the trade and consumer beauty press. Once the brand is fully established the strapline could be removed, or if we ever decide to open a partner salon with a member of the team, we can adjust this with the individual’s name. I also believe the Hare & Bone name could lend itself well to products, styling tools and accessories should we ever feel we want to expand the business in those directions.”
Sam Burnett, Hare & Bone salon owner
14 / hji.co.uk
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SHUTTERSTOCK
BUSINESS
Is it Time for a SWOT Analysis?
Follow these tips from HOB Salons Director Clive Collins to grow and strengthen your salon business over the coming months
I
t’s easy when you are running a busy salon or salon group to just keep going, working on the salon floor and trying to stay on top of all the other demands of being the boss. However, it’s essential to take a step back and look at where your business is, how well it is performing and the ways you could improve this performance. At least once a year, I would advise every salon owner to carry out a SWOT analysis of their business.
What is a SWOT Analysis? SWOT stands for strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats. The aim is to gain a clear picture of all four of these elements so you can build on the strengths and take advantage of the opportunities. It also means you can address any current or potential threats that could impact on the success of your business.
What are your strengths? Every salon owner and team should know their strengths. These are the brand pillars that help ensure continued success. They are also the main reasons why your clients come to you and your staff continue working for you. You shouldn’t take them for granted and you should be clear on what they are so you can ensure they remain key strengths. Don’t let standards slip and lose the advantage they give you. Your strengths could be your location, client loyalty or level of service. You
and your team need to be aware of these strengths and how to maintain and improve them.
What are your weaknesses? Take time to analyse the performance in your salon and to spot any areas that are weak. Are client numbers down or are certain team members underperforming? Could the look of your salon be improved? Has anything changed locally that means your location is no longer a prime spot for a salon? Once you have pinpointed the weaknesses think about how they can be rectified. Draw up a plan of action. It could be that certain team members need more education or that the salon exterior is in desperate need of a clean, new signage or a coat of paint. In contrast, it could be that you need to look at yourself and the way you are managing the business. Could you benefit from some training to ensure you are leading effectively. Write down everything as this will make it so much clearer.
Take advantage of opportunities There are always ways you can improve your business performance. Are there any areas that could offer a massive opportunity to increase profits? Could your retail sales be escalated, for example? Many salons have a great relationship with their product supplier, but not all of them take full advantage of this. Could you exploit seasonal promotions more fully or could the team benefit from some education on how to promote take-home products to their clients? This kind of education is often available free from the supplier so make sure you benefit from it. Other potential opportunities could include local press – have you built a relationship with your local newspapers, magazines and influencers? Are you doing enough to attract great new people to your team? Draw up a list of opportunities, decide on your priorities and start making even more of your business.
Don’t forget about the threats… As a business owner, you can’t afford to live in a bubble. You may be running an amazing business, but you need to be aware of what could have a negative impact on your profits. Is a new salon due to open that would be targeting the same clients as you? Is another local business looking to poach your staff and their clients from you? Has a member of your team recently left to set up as a mobile hairdresser, which could steal a chunk of your clientele? Make a list of threats and how you can tackle them. You could introduce offers to attract and keep clients or staff incentives to ensure your team remains happy working with you. 16 / hji.co.uk
MEET THE ARTIST I also wanted to demonstrate a broad variation of hair textures and hairdressing techniques in a commercial and consumer-friendly way. The concept was really to make sure there was a colour that would stand out to all of the judges and to ensure that at least one or more of the pictures was something they loved. Where do you go for colour inspiration?
I find inspiration everywhere – whether that be fashion trends, lifestyle influences or the evolving trends I see working with our teams. I’m proud to be a salon-based hairdresser. I work with clients most days and I think it’s easy for us to focus on super creative shapes and colours. However it’s always important for my work to relate to what everyday clients want to wear.
Meet the
What are your favourite techniques at the moment?
It’s all about creating a bespoke colour service for each individual client. Our clients requirements are diverse so it’s important for colourists to adapt their skillset to each client. We are currently working on some exciting new techniques with Wella Professionals – watch this space for when these are launched! What trends are you pleased to see go out of fashion?
How does it feel to be the current British Hairdresser of the Year, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional?
It’s incredible! I genuinely didn’t expect to win at all. I was just so happy to be nominated by people in the industry. I was bowled over by the response on the night as well. I’ve been working towards this dream for so long. In fact it’s been a 22-year journey to get this far. It’s fantastic to achieve it for myself but also for my family who have been so supportive of my career.
Are there any trends or techniques you’d like to be on-trend again?
I love interesting and clever colour mixtures, not everything has to be bright and bold. I love all techniques and trends as long as there is a high level of taste in both placement and colour. What do you love most about working in the salon and being the Wella Professionals’ technical director?
I feel this role fulfils both my artistic journey in the industry alongside the satisfaction of seeing our own brand grow. It can be time consuming but I love it!
What plans do you have for your winning year?
What’s been your most memorable consultation?
2020 is already very busy with shows, shoots, seminars and events. I will also continue working hard in our two salons to make sure they’re successful.
There are so many memorable consultations for both good and bad reasons and I am sure all hairdressers can relate to this. I do think now, more than ever, clients have exceedingly high expectations. We’ve all had to become much more direct and realistic to manage client expectations and ensure we deliver the best results.
What made your 2019 British collection stand out?
My aim was to create a colour trends forecast for 2020.
ROBERT EATON’S MOODBOARD
18 / hji.co.uk
SHUTTERSTOCK
HJ’s British Hairdresser of the Year and Wella Professionals’ technical director Robert Eaton shares an insight into his current inspiration and favourite techniques
This is a difficult one as there are so many different trends and techniques that we are using now. One of the things I really love about hair colour is that we create looks that grow out and evolve effortlessly giving clients beautiful hair all the time. I think there is also a move away from overworked, heavily coloured hair. It is much more about beautiful shine and condition. It is very much about creating a colour journey and plan for our clients.
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Are you ready for Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2020 with its five new categories and an entry process that is easier than ever before, and open to all UK and Ireland-based hairdressers?
WELLA TRENDVISION: The category: Colour Specialist 2 What to enter: Beautiful and natural looking balayage with a soft
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transition from dark to light with harmonious shade selection.
20 / hji.co.uk
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The category: Editorial Look 3 What to enter: An editorial image that reflects the Sebastian Professional brand identity.
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The category: Craft Artist 4 What to enter: A beautiful transformation cut and style
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The category: Colour Artist What to enter: A beautiful and salon-relevant hair look with a focus on colour.
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Five new categories for 2020 Wella Professionals is introducing five new categories for you to experiment with this year. The new categories will allow you to explore your creativity, develop your skills, build your confidence, raise your profile and be in with the chance of becoming the UK and Ireland’s next rising star. Find out which category is right for you...
look to express your model’s true self.
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The category: Men’s Hair 5 What to enter: A charismatic model that demonstrates a trendy
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male haircut and reflects the Seb Man brand identity. EW •N
The category: Style Master 6 What to enter: The look should demonstrate exceptional styling
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execution to produce a modern
wearable style for the ghd girl – energetic, bold and fearless, yet poised, calm and polished. Did you know? Anyone living and working in the UK or Ireland can enter the Wella TrendVision Award 2020, including non-Wella Professionals accounts and independent stylists!
It could be you in 2020 At last year’s awards ceremony Wella Professionals technical director Robert Eaton, the legendary Sassoon Academy and seven of Wella Professionals’ guest artists impressed the crowd with live performances (pictured below) before all of the 2019 UK & Ireland winners were announced.
For more information about the Wella TrendVision Award 2020 call +44 845 6018 128 (UK) or +353 1 416 0900 (IRE), email wellaevents@cotyinc.com or go to www.wella.co.uk/trendvision.
21 / hji.co.uk
WHERE THE FUTURE
STARS ARE MADE AD EXPLORE YOUR CREATIVITY DEVELOP YOUR SKILLS BUILD YOUR CONFIDENCE RAISE YOUR PROFILE BECOME THE NEXT RISING STAR! ENTER IN 3 EASY STEPS 1. Choose your category
2. Select your image A finished look you have created in the last 12 months
3. Post it on Instagram Using the category #hashtag and tagging @WellahairUK OPEN TO ALL HAIRDRESSERS
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
•
Easier than ever before entry on Instagram using a look created in the last 12 months
Photographic entries open Sunday 16th February
•
More people than ever will go through to the UK Regional & Ireland Heats
Photographic entry deadline Thursday 9th April
•
Formal judges presentations at UK Regional & Ireland Heats replaced with informal chat at your competition workstation
Photographic results announced Monday 27th April
•
Open to all hairdressers
CATEGORIES COLOUR ARTIST Beautiful and salon relevant hair with a focus on colour CRAFT ARTIST Beautiful cut and style transformation that will express the model’s true self STYLE MASTER Exceptional styling execution to produce a modern wearable look of the ghd girl - energetic, bold and fearless,yet poised, calm and polished EDITORIAL LOOK Editorial image that reflects the Sebastian Professional identity MEN’S HAIR Charismatic model showing a trendy male haircut reflecting the Seb Man identity COLOUR SPECIALIST Beautiful and natural looking balayage with a soft transition from dark to light and harmonious shades selection
UK Regional Heats 1st, 2nd, 8th and 9th June Ireland Heat: TBC August UK & Ireland Final: Monday 28th September The Roundhouse, London
IT’S NEVER BEEN EASIER TO ENTER Find out more We have some more exciting developments for 2020 that we can’t wait to share with you very soon. +44 845 6018 128 (UK) +353 1 416 0900 (IRE) wellaevents@cotyinc.com www.wella.co.uk/trendvision
#WELLATVA #TRENDVISION2020
WHAT’S NEW FOR 2020
– ARE YOU
READY?
The UK’s leading hairdressers and barbers are landing at ExCeL London on 29 and 30 March for HJ Live London. The show is completely free and is guaranteed to give you a dose of inspiration that will kickstart your year HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing The HJ Stage, in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, gives you an exclusive opportunity to get up close to some of the biggest and most creative names in the British hairdressing industry. You’ll see the latest trends, new techniques and will learn how to recreate the iconic styles your clients ask for time and again in the salon.
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"The Russell Eaton Team is passionate about education and sharing the techniques and stories that go into our work. This year is even more exciting for us, as I've been named HJ’s British Hairdresser of the Year 2019. In our show, we’ll showcase some of the work that goes into our awardwinning collections. We can’t wait to give you an insight into how to fuse technically brilliant hair with beautiful, trend-led results with mass appeal.” Robert Eaton
“I get motivated by movements – political or social. It’s what gives me a deeper commitment to a project and helps keep my photographic work unique. I love to evoke emotion or at least a sense of curiosity through my collections and live shows.” Jordanna Cobella
"It will be amazing to work with Joshua Woodman who is the 2019 Denman Stage Star winner. There’s nothing like working with new and raw talent. He’s got such great ideas and real vision and I’m chuffed to bits to be able to help him make those ideas a reality by creating a collection live on stage. It’s going to be a great show!” Desmond Murray
“Our award-winning team are renowned for working with all hair textures, colours and presenting shows with the wow factor. We have nurtured home-grown talent, including HJ's British Hairdressing Awards Newcomer of the Year Alex Morton. Engaging and entertaining, our show will be a must-see at HJ Live London.” Jamie Stevens Hair Team
24 / hji.co.uk
“We’re dedicated to taking the hottest trends and translating them into beautiful, wearable styles for the salon fl oor. We take our skills and teach thousands of hairdressers in the UK and across the globe. We also work with numerous celebrities and infl uencers, while maintaining very busy salon columns. We can’t wait to share this expertise with you at HJ Live London.” Headmasters Pro Artistic Team
“I love performing at the HJ Live shows as it’s something more creative away from the salon. It’s great to inspire an audience and to come together in a setting that’s all about collaboration as opposed to competition.” Georgia Bell
Go to http://hjlive. co.uk/HJSTAGES to register for your free tickets
Modern Barber Stage The Modern Barber Stage delivers two days of solid barbering and men’s hair education. The stage includes Afro, scissor cuts, clipper techniques and perfectly polished shop floor work to refresh your style portfolio.
“Danny & Co will be bringing modern men’s hair cutting with an urban feel to the Modern Barber Stage. We’ll be working with current trends to bring a ‘Grime/UK Rap’ inspired collection. We’re showcasing the looks that are in demand in our Manchester barbershops.” Danny Robinson
“We'll be showcasing the styles that motivate us and we'll be entering a new decade using texture as a foundation. We will also discuss what should define you in your working life.” Alex Burt from Teddy Edwards
“We will bring accessible techniques and share our passion in our work.” Emma Richardson and Siobhan Moriarty Jones from Cavalier Club Barbers
“I will bring fresh, wearable and easy to maintain style with a real-time cut.” Jack Frangiamore from Jack Louis Hair 25 / hji.co.uk
Join our network of stylists Hassle-free Trade Accounts with access to a wide range of luxurious hair extensions and HABIA approved training for professionals.
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EXTENSIONS Single colour trend This season we are seeing lots of extensions brands tapping into the single colour tone trend. It’s exciting to work with as we are finally moving away from balayage. Bobs are strong with or without fringes and heavily ornamented which can be achieved and styled with extensions. Vicky Demetriou, extensions specialist and session stylist at Larry King
2020 VISION FEME LTD
The rise of nano rings Nano rings will be hot this year. Gone are the days when clients will spend hours waiting for resin bonds to be broken down and combed out. Nano rings are a gentle and quick process in terms of application and removal. Adam Jones at Live True London
THE LONDON HAIR LAB
HA JAY BIRMING
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XXL hair XXL hair is set to be big in 2020. Long hair will be seen all over the catwalks this year. This trend is all about maintenance, ensuring clients have regular salon visits as well as using the correct shampoo, conditioner and leave-in products to maintain all that enviable length. Pearl embellishments are also set to be huge and when XXL extensions are used and styled into a high ponytail, they add extra sass and a whimsical fi nish to the hair. Jay Birmingham, owner of Jay Birmingham Hair No heat methods Clients will be requesting simpler methods in 2020, such as tape extensions which stick to the hair in minutes with no heat. Richy’s ‘Stickees’ tape extensions usually take a Richy hair professional less than 30 minutes. Jack Ball, business development director at Richy Hair UK
27 / hji.co.uk
NDON
Sustainable locks With a new focus on sustainability and clients wanting to opt for more ethical ways to wear human hair, there is a rapid upturn in requests for reusable methods. It is the same trend that is driving veganism and climate change awareness. Clients want to find a way to wear hair ethically. Methods such as micro rings and tapes are both reusable methods where a client can wear the same hair for more than a year and sometimes two years! Sarah McKenna, founder of The London Hair Lab
LIVE TRUE LO
HJ speaks to the experts to discover the hair extensions trend forecast for the year ahead
Shorter Afro styles The obsession for long Afro hair extensions has run its course. It’s all about the jaw-length bob. The cut is clean and relatively simple so it flatters most face shapes. To hike up the glam factor suggest to your client a tousled body wave texture or a head-turning vibrant hue. Jemima Cousins at FEME Ltd
EXTENSIONS
Committing to extensions is a big deal for your client, especially if they are completely new to this method of styling. Here are some of your clients’ most frequently asked extensions questions with expert tips on how to answer them X
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EXTENSIONS 101 ir er my ha t f a g in k n loo n betwee us about a o v le c r e n ir a m h “I’ y keeping m d n advice?” a y s n n a io e s v n a e h ext s. Do you it is v n lo a s nt form your clie nt that you in Cachet. “It’s worth rta o p im s it’ i Rem ial and h, founder of are is so cruc times but “Good afterc ht,” explains Victoria Lynctheir absolute best at all e correct rig k th it o t g lo e in g ey us to how l tips like only will th a t ic no ct t ra a and p th r e ff ym ng r the g nger. O emphasisi ill also last lo s and tying the hair up fo programme and w ns io ns e xt re she the e ugh the full ca rfect time for ducts and bru aftercare pro should talk your client thro ar just starting, it’s the pe ye bedtime. You their lifestyle. With a new d hair routine habits.” o tailor it to suit your clients to get into go g in g a ur enco 28 / hji.co.uk
EXTENSIONS
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HAIRDREAMS
lann ho are p ile super w e s o th h r oking. W e ncerns fo mon co ill be natural-lo ppeals to som m o c t s w a o s y ly m e e e c e it th n n th r a One of sions is whethe erated hair defi t naturally enh lain to gg ten tha wear ex and super exa n prefer a look rofessionals exp rlotte ir p long Cha ome we as ha , ievable? , many w wearers have. How canded look is ach eds says: “Firstly y e what the t a natural blen n, The H.I.V.E in L sultation where a n clients th Hairdreams Salo ome in for a co who will explain c t m is o to o n t fr n io s s e e n li y c Bo quire. Als exte our advise y with a qualified ngth they will re n only be ca et e le she’ll me strands and th our client’s hair is important y y It n t . a a d n th m t le w c b d of ho natural ch stran ise the fa emphas ral length for a attached to ea ing pulled eight m be its natu double ve the correct w eep the hair fro ht over time.” weig will k to ha n as this d by the extensio feeling straine and
“How do I choose the best extensions method to suit my hair type and lifestyle?” Once your client has decided to wear extensions, one of the next burning questions will be which type to choose. The extensions market is so varied today from clip-ons and bonded to the tape method and rings that it can be overwhelming for a new extensions client. Louise Jenkins, creative and education manager at Great Lengths UK said: “Ensure your staff can offer your clients the right advice on
the best method of extensions to choose. Great Lengths extensionists are trained to determine what method of application is suitable for each hair type and density. As part of our education programme, stylists learn how to consult to ensure they choose the right method for the right hair type but also the right method to suit the clients’ lifestyle and desired maintenance.”
GREAT LENGTHS
BALMAIN
“How c an you match hair w ith the my colo ured correct extens Colour ions?” further application is co com
mplica pound match ted ed for con your client’s h when you a at the best of time c re face a e ir rn fo wit Balma in’s ge r your client h extensions. d with havin s and it’s neral m g to co match when th This is li there is the hair with anager Lian ey decide to kely to be a lour e c th of the h no suitable m e Balmain C Hoskyns-Bro opt for exten ause w sion a o a n lo ir tc sa shade u technic taken inh, we ask the r Ring at the ys: “We tr y tos. a l a d c c onsulta visor re lient to natura spectru l c ti colourem. If the matc ommends a light conditiosend us a pic on. If tu n c d h s o w . is lo A n it B u ’t h with th r matc almain re the sa close e e h always single tonal me shade. Th nough the a from our vib the pe work closely added hair. Ais undetectabdded hair ca rant rfect m atch.” with the clien t Balmain Ha le blending n be wo t and th ir eir hair Couture we rks dresse r to cre ate 29 / hji.co.uk
MEMBERSHIPS Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and networking opportunities. Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to the Membership Lounges at HJ Live and Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.
BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH and win a set of The Knot Dr Pro brushes HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNA INSPIRING TODAY’ S HAIRDRESSER TIONAL
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he Knot Dr Pro brushes feature 212 flexalite bristles that detangle both wet and dry hair without breakage. The gentle yet effective bristles easily glide through all hair types, including hair extensions. The ergonomically designed paddle is easy on the wrists to brush in comfort. The rubberised body gives that additional comfortable and luxurious feel. The pad and ball tips are available in four bright colours. Five new HJ members will have the chance to win the Counter Display Unit of The Pro worth £55.60 (RRP £111.60), which includes eight brushes in four different colours:
Membership services If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfi eld, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY
THE HOT TICKETS FOR
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2020
PRESENTS THE
LIVE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS
WHAT'S HOTFOR FOR
S/S 2020
Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered offi ce North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
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Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 135 No. 65615 February 2020. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DE. www.hji.co.uk Classifi ed advertising prepress by Classifi ed Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 0203787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media
32 / hji.co.uk
SPRING/SUMMER TRENDS
The Classy Plait Get the look
This sleek and stylish plait tied with a silk black bow sits down the back. You could recreate this look for a client who wants a sophisticated everyday hairstyle or for someone who wants to look glam for a party. Anthony Turner created this look for L’Oréal Professionnel at Erdem SS20. Prepare the hair with water and L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli and create a strong centre parting.
1
Use the Dyson Supersonic Professional Edition Hair Dryer with the styling concentrator attachment, blow-dry the hair section by section to achieve a poker straight finish. Use lots of tension around the hairline.
2
What’s
ndy guide to the chic ha a d le pi m co s ha HJ ndon, Paris and Milan hairstyles from the Lo Fashion Weeks that you can adapt for clients in your salon
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
Trending for SS20
Take a front section either side of the face and gently backcomb. Place each tress to cover the ear.
3
Apply L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil on top of the head and pull hair back into a braid.
4
When braiding, use both the L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Infinium Extreme Hairspray and the Dyson Supersonic Professional Edition Hair Dryer to blow-dry each section of the braid, creating a smooth and sleek finish.
5
Bind elastic around the end of the hair and secure it. Spray L’Oréal Professionnel Infi nium Extreme Hairspray to perfect and smooth the hair line. Tie the ends with a black ribbon.
6 Happy and Healthy Hair Healthy hair is in this season with the hairstyles at DAKS London, Coach and Preen all going au naturel.
DAKS London
Coach
O
R+C
Hair lead: Pont Smith for R+Co Pont on the look: “You’ll notice the use of scarves and head attire. This is a trend that’s creeping in once again. This fitted with the overall aesthetic of the show and hairstyling. The hair was smoothed to create a mirror-like shine and to enhance the look.” The inspiration: The hairstyle was a recreation of an aristocratic holiday where the individuals are relaxing in the Mediterranean sun. The look has a volume finish with lived-in roots but the hair has a polished satin aesthetic.
33 / hji.co.uk
Hair lead: Guido Palau for Redken Guido on the look: “My key products at this show were Redken Extreme Play Safe to heat protect the hair while I was blow-drying and Redken Triple Dry 15 to add texture and volume to the lengths, which I left natural. The look was then pulled together with a Coach barrette clip.” REDKEN
Preen Hair lead: Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals Eugene on the look: “The key is to be as gentle with the hair as possible. If you overwork the style, it will look overworked and even tortured. This is a look that is minimal but special, with subtle nuances and softness. The hair should feel touchable.”
BABYLISS PRO
SPRING/SUMMER TRENDS
Chignon Updo
NA
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WELLA
PROF
ESSIO
NALS
This hairstyle is very simple and was created to make third day hair look stylish and chic. The look, which was created by lead stylist Rodney Cutler for Redken, was featured in Claudia Li’s fashion show in New York.
PRO
FES
SIO
Here’s how he created the look in six easy steps: Work Redken Dry Shampoo Paste 05 through clean and dry hair. Blow-dry using a paddle brush for a smooth and sleek finish.
LLA
1
WE
REDKEN
Get the look
Sustainable Hair At the Richard Malone show the environment was a key focus. With many clients looking for the verifiable vegan sign on most hair care products, it’s no wonder the lead stylist of the show, Richard Phillipart, who worked with BaByliss Pro, wanted to represent how the hair and beauty industry is becoming more environmentally friendly. The hair was styled super sleek and crowned with fabric hoods and plaits, which was then completed with a silver coiled wire that was clipped at the end of the plait.
Mist the hair with Redken Triple Pure 32 and brush the hair back for a high hold.
2 3
Separate the top section of the hair and gather the remaining hair into a ponytail. Secure with an elastic band. Brush the top section back and overlay the hair before combing into the ponytail and secure with an elastic.
4
Divide the ponytail into two sections and twist. Secure into a chignon with bobby pins.
5
Flower Power This trend from the Bora Aksu show, created by lead artist Tina Outen for L’Oréal Professionnel, is ideal for spring and reawakening your client’s inner flower queen from the cold depths of winter. The style was influenced by the feminist icon Frida Kahlo. It echoed her use of floral accessories and colour. Whether it’s an Alice band or a delicate daisy clip, this style will definitely freshen up any look to give your client’s hair a new lease of life. To add more youth to your client’s hairstyle you could also experiment with double skinny braids. 34 / hji.co.uk
L’ORÈAL PROFESSIONNEL
Mist the hair again with Redken Triple Take Pure 32 Hairspray.
6
Get the Apollo 2 Barber Chair in
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2020 marks a new era for Fudge Professional Styling with a packaging redesign, a focus on sustainability, reformulations and four completely new products. This is Planet F – the world according to Fudge Professional
: s e l u R e h Fudge T Styling Re-imagined
F
udge Professional redefi ned the rules of styling when it fi rst launched in 1991. This year the brand’s 30-product styling range has been given a complete refresh with a number of innovations that will be a game-changer for you when you’re working behind the chair. Fudge Professional’s global ambassador Jonathan Andrew worked closely with the new product development team to re-imagine the iconic range. He says: “I used Fudge Professional years ago and was blown away by the products. This new restyle gives
the same incredible performance in premium yet practical style packaging, and provides innovations for the professional hairdressing industry as well as for your clients. I believe we’ve created something really special here.” The redesign The new Fudge Professional Styling design is modern and eye-catching with a signature holographic fi nish that sits in-line with the care portfolio. The new products are packed with innovative technology to give even greater styling options in the salon and at home, while the outside
embodies a complete new look and more sustainable packaging. The sustainable ethos The brand is taking a strong stance on sustainability with a forward-thinking ethos that will impress your clients in the salon. All of its jars contain 30% less plastic and are completely recyclable. 76% of the new range contains recycled plastic and by 2025 Fudge Professional will be using 25% less plastic with 100% of its products in reusable, recyclable or compostable plastic packaging.
TO ORDER FUDGE PROFESSIONAL FOR YOUR SALON VISIT www.fudgeprofessional.com. 36 / hji.co.uk
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SSIONAL STYL ING RESTAGE
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MEET THE NEW REVOLUTIONARY PRODUCTS
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Jonathan can’t be without any of the new styling products. He says: “All four products are essential kitbag must-haves and each has a specific role.”
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THE GAME-CHANGER: BLOW DRY AQUA PRIMER
What Jonathan says: “This product is revolutionary. It’s a 10-in-1 product that protects, dehumidifies, smooths and gives hold. It comes out like gel but turns into water for a perfect coating before a blow-dry.” What the consumers say: 80% agreed style lasted longer.*
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THE COCKTAILER: AQUA SHINE SERUM
*FUDGE PROFESSIONAL USER TRIAL JUNE 2019
What Jonathan says: “I love to cocktail products and this serum’s lightweight texture gives a soft finish to the hair after its dried. It doesn’t overpower it or make it feel overloaded. It’s a fool-proof product for both your clients and for you as a hairdresser as it’s intuitive and will always give a lovely finish.” What the consumers say: 85% agreed hair had instant shine.*
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THE ONE FOR THE BOYS: MATTE HED MOULDABLE
What Jonathan says: “This is perfect for a guy who wants a soft and natural look. I couldn’t believe this product myself as it doesn’t make my hair greasy. When you distribute it, it gives a flexible hold.” What the consumers say: 84% agreed it easily works through the hair.*
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THE ONE FOR CURLY HAIR: CURL REVOLUTION MIST
What Jonathan says: “This mist will give fine to medium curls definition. Plus, for those with really curly hair it can be cocktailed with other Fudge Professional styling products for a great result.” What the consumers say: 77% agreed this is the ultimate curl multi-tasker.* 37 / hji.co.uk
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modern man
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Refreshingly laid-back looks of all lengths
“I was influenced by the early photographic process called tintype. This is a raw collection shot with natural light that follows the natural fall and movement of the hair to create a true and unedited finish.� Christian Wiles
Hair: Christian Wiles Styling: Kate Jeffery Photography: Barry Jeffery
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Rock ‘n’ Roll Icons Cuts from 20th century music stars are reimagined
“Mixing the signature style of The Beatles with the rock ‘n’ roll swagger of The Rolling Stones, my Hybrid collection puts a modern twist on iconic cuts from music history.” Desmond Murray
Hair: Desmond Murray Make-up: Ellen Bridger Photography: Desmond Murray
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6th July, Brighton 9.30am to 5pm Tickets ÂŁ25 inc VAT
A unique blend of learning, inspiration, brand experiences and networking – BARBERFEST is a chance to stock up on technical skills including cutting, clipper work, shaving, treatments and photography PLUS get the gen on best business practice. There are 20 leading suppliers and tons of learning opportunities along with our inspirational stage and HUB hangout. Brand sponsor MVRCK
Tickets go on sale February. Follow for info IG and Twitter @modernbarbermag/ FB Modern Barber/barberfest.co.uk
EXPRESS YOUR CLIENTS’ COLOUR OUR New ChromaID semi-permanent mix & tone colour From subtle to bold shades – 100% colour flexibility
IDENTITY system with integrated bonding. without damage.
www.schwarzkopfpro.com
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Identity
Embrace whoever you choose to be
SPONSORED BY
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“I wanted to create a collection for editorial fashion magazines with each image representing a different limited-edition front cover. Identity represents the style of a dynamic and adventurous woman. It evokes a feeling of freedom and experimentation, where power tailoring collides with the unmistakable feminine form to create a collection of images that are confident yet beautiful and allow you to embrace whoever you choose to be.� Cos Sakkas
Hair: Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY, London Make-up: Lan Nguyen Grealis Styling: Veronica Greenhill Photography: Jack Eames
49 / hji.co.uk
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Diverse Beauty An appreciation of hair in all of its forms
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“I’m a session stylist so I wanted to use the same approach to hairdressing that I would during a fashion shoot – something fast and spontaneous. This collection celebrates diverse beauty that is neither masculine nor feminine. It doesn’t matter what gender you identify with – it’s about admiring and appreciating beauty. I went into the studio and just played. I didn’t use any hair pieces and none of the images were retouched as I wanted to create something real.”
SPONSORED BY
Eugene Souleiman
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Hair: Eugene Souleiman Make-up: Gillian Campbell Styling: Sarah Starkey Photography: Georges Antoni
57 / hji.co.uk
LONDON EXCEL LONDON 10 -12 OCTOBER 2020 PRESENTED BY
SAVE THE DATE
JOIN US Register your interest for early bird tickets now www.salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
#Salon20
HAIR: HOOKER & YOUNG ART TEAM PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL YOUNG
FASHION
WHITE NOISE Dark and mysterious 60 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
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FASHION
“White Noise is about fusing textures together to create a raw and beautiful finish. Images are dark and mysterious with an edgy but soft feel. Hair is less polished than previous seasons, which will be a key trend for 2020.� Tracey Devine-Smith
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FASHION
Hair: Tracey Devine-Smith Make-up: Lucy Flower and Zoe Cornwall Photography: Richard Miles
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FASHION
“This collection is inspired by Paul Klee, a Swiss-born painter with a unique style that was influenced by expressionism, cubism, surrealism, and orientalism. Colour was an obsession for Klee. He studied and theorized about it and the fruits of this can be seen in his artworks as he applied his reasoning to his artistic practice.�
e c
lour obsessi o c on A
erpie t s a
Dan Spiller JOICO color ambassador for Europe, the UK and Ireland
M 64 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
Hair: Dan Spiller, JOICO color ambassador for Europe, the UK and Ireland and member of the Marc Antoni Artistic Team and Altin Ismaili, a member of the Marc Antoni Artistic Team Make-up: Sabrina Nicholson Photography: Jamie Blanshard
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MONDAY, 29TH JUNE 2020 | LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE
ENTER NOW CELEBRATE SUCCESS Enter now at www.hji.co.uk/hjs-british-hairdressing-business-awards or contact Lizzi Diggins at 020 3841 7365 SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown at 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk
#BHBA20
FASHION
RE AL REAL spells out the first letter of each Revlon Professional Visionaries team member and is based on the team’s vision and creative vibe
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FASHION
Hair: Revlon Professional UK Visionaries: Robyn Vickers, Erin McGlade, Aaron Jones and Leanne Carpenter with creative direction by Mark Leeson and Richard Darby Make-up: Lauren Mathis Fashion: Bernard Connolly Photography: Richard Miles 69 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
“For Robyn, Erin, Aaron and Leanne being part of the Revlon Professional Visionaries team is an incredible opportunity. For this collection the set was exposed so you can see parts of the equipment and edges of the canvas, which give it a raw feel. In contrast, the tailored styling is based loosely around Chanel’s famous dogtooth designs. The collection unveils the incredible versatility of Revlon Professional colour fused with cool and creative haircuts. I’m so proud to have worked with the Visionaries and the collection is awesome!” Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global artistic ambassador
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HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY BALL Monday 2 March 2020 6.45pm till 11.45pm
Atmosphere 28 Millbank Tower, 21-24 Millbank Westminster, London SW1P 4QP
Price includes: Hair & Beauty goody bag Sparkling wine on arrival Two course dinner, coffee and petits fours
£160
½ bottle of wine per person
per ticket
£1,440 for a table of 10
Entertainment, runway awards & dancing
To purchase tickets: T: 01234 831888 W: hairandbeautycharity.org/ball E: info@hairandbeautycharity.org @hbcharityuk
In association with
LIVE EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
Education, inspiration
2020 TRENDS | SAVE ££ FOR YOUR BUSINESS | BE INSPIRED | FREE LIVE STAGES
Enter promo code HJMAG3 for a chance to win £250 to spend at the show
Hair: Mark Leeson Photography: Richard Miles Make up: Nikki Wolff Fashion Styling: M&R Products: Revlon Professional
Register for your FREE ticket at hjlive.co.uk/febmag
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FASHION
✁ SAVE THE DATE!
Don’t miss the amika Texture Masterclass with James Earnshaw and Naeemah LaFond on 25 February 2020. Go to alanhoward.co.uk to book your tickets!
74 / hji.co.uk
TO From London to New York 75 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
Hair: James Earnshaw for amika Make-up: Meg Lindow Styling: Yaz V Photography: Tom Goddard
“amika is based in Brooklyn, New York, and is building a strong presence in the UK so we wanted to combine the two locations. We focused on the art of hair styling and working on different hair types. We shot two girls with bespoke looks around iconic locations in Brooklyn and London to showcase the brand’s diversity and playfulness.” James Earnshaw, UK artistic ambassador at amika
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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round.
IONAL
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Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 50% off seminars and selected conferences 20% off Salon International tickets Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.
WHAT'S HOT FOR
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Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65604 March 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DX. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media
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T HE HOT LIST
Bold brunette
Glossy finish
Tone up
Graphite Ash is a brunette colour collection in Alter Ego Italy’s Ash Technofruit range. The three new glossy shades are Chestnut Ash, Dark Blonde Ash and Light Blonde Ash.
Authentic Beauty Concept Indulging Fluid Oil is a non-greasy multi-tasker for all hair types. The vegan-friendly formula contains crambe abyssinica seed oil to seal split ends and boost shine. £31.50
Aveda Full Spectrum Vibrants is a semi-permanent treatment colour range featuring 11 intense shades. The formulas are derived from 95% natural ingredients such as kukui and jojoba oil blends.
Concentrated colour
Body enhancer
Flyaways be gone
POWER Pure Pigments by Crazy Color is a customisable colouring system with five interchangeable shades. Drop the colour into a base and apply to the hair and it will deposit in 60 seconds. RRP £7.99
Fat Muk Volume is designed for fine hair. The range includes the Volumising Shampoo, Volumising Conditioner and Volumiser. This range will boost the body of your client’s locks. RRP £9.75
Helios from ghd is designed for a speedy blow-dry. The lightweight body, contoured nozzle and ultra-powerful drying technology will give your clients dry and smooth hair in minutes.
Hair armour
Connect with colour
Get lighter
Hair Xpertise Argan RainCoat Humidity Shield defends hair against UV damage and frizz. The heat activated technology forms a barrier around the hair and leaves a silky smooth finish. RRP £8.99
Joico Love Aura is a new colour collection by brand ambassador Larisa Love. The five bright shades last up to 20 washes and deposit a burst of vibrancy onto the hair while leaving a healthy finish.
Color.Me by Kevin.Murphy has launched Cream.Lightener Ammonia-Free. The 100% vegan colour lightener is free from harsh chemicals to give clients guilt-free bouncy blonde tresses.
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Natural extensions
Frizz-free
Bring back moisture
Loxbox Hair Extensions Naked Taped are bespoke wefts that mimic natural hair growth from the root. The extensions are available in 20in pieces and 10 natural shades. From £120
Matrix Total Results Mega Sleek Mega Varnish is a high shine frizz controlling serum. It absorbs quickly into the hair to keep frizz away and to leave hair feeling soft and sleek.
Monat Super Nourish Oil Crème is a replenishing shampoo and conditioner for super nourished locks. The duo are designed to strengthen and protect hair from environmental damage. From £32
Party updo
Blonde is better
Nourish and fortify
Remi Cachet has launched a hair bun and 24in ponytail hair extension. The hair pieces are made from real human hair and will suit all of your client’s special occasions. From £49.99
Revlon Professional’s Revlonissimo Colorsmetique range has introduced The Cold Just Got Cooler – three new blonde shades and a freezing pure colour shade for a sharp icy blonde result.
Saco Supernature is a densifying shampoo and conditioner collection with a superfood formula that contains biotin, amla and saw palmetto extract. From £19
Luxury oils
Easy brushing
Style fresh
Schwarkopf Professional has added Castor Seed Cleansing Oil and Mediterranean Finishing Oil to its Oil Ultime range. The two products are ideal for clients who want a luxury salon experience.
The WetBrush Pro Shine Enhancer Detangler uses 100% natural boar bristles to glide through hair with no pain. It is also designed to protect the hair against split-ends and breakage.
Fudge Professional Styling has been given a refresh for 2020 with new packaging and four new products – Blow Dry Aqua Primer, Aqua Shine Serum, Curl Revolution Mist and Matte Hed Mouldable.
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URBAN
Bad Apple Hair is a luxurious salon based in Stratford-upon-Avon that is fresh, edgy and on trend
JUNGLE
GAVIN’S TOP TIPS • Be flexible Be adaptable with your budget and allow for some margin of error. • Think practically Think about how the salon will work on a practical level and make sure that you design with both form and function in mind. Your primary goal is to create a well-functioning and profi table salon. • Stay on brand Design a strong theme that is reflective of your brand’s personality and ethos – and stick to it. 82 / hji.co.uk
INTERIORS
Name: Bad Apple Hair, Stratford-upon-Avon Address: Bell Court Shopping Centre, Owner: Gavin Mills Size: 1,200 sq ft How many staff: 4 Budget: £80,000
M
anaging director Gavin Mills always knew he wanted to open a Bad Apple salon in Stratfordupon-Avon. The West Midlands salon group couldn’t have found a more fitting place to open their ninth salon than the Bell Court Shopping Centre. Gavin explains: “We’d had our eye on the shopping centre for a while. It’s already home to a vibrant mix of upand-coming brands and established names across the premium fashion, beauty and lifestyle sectors. These brands really complemented our own image.” Gavin and his design team had to renovate the whole shop space before opening as it didn’t have walls, a concrete floor or even electricity. Rather than be put off by the
enormous task ahead he motivated his team by encouraging them to truly make the interior space their own. The hard work has paid off with Gavin fulfilling his aim of creating a stylish urban jungle. The interior is inspired by the iconic House of Hackney Palmeral print with a feature wall decorated in the palm-leaf wallpaper. A monochromatic colour scheme dominates the space with the team painting the salon walls and floors in white and the salon’s doubleheight ceilings in black. “I love how the green-on-white statement wallpaper makes a dramatic statement against the graphic pattern of the metro-tiled walls,” explains Gavin. Photographic studio lights complete with visible electrical trunking, hang 83 / hji.co.uk
from the recessed ceilings in the main salon floor. This enhances the salon’s studio atmosphere, while also filling the salon with bright white light. Plus, brass lined pendant lamps fashionably hang above the reception area to create a warm ambiance as clients enter the salon. The salon has an industrial theme, yet the elements of nature dotted throughout, create an air of tranquillity such as plants in the reception and waiting area trailing across the retail shelves. Gavin explains it best: “Just like the cult House of Hackney Palmeral print, the Stratford-upon-Avon Bad Apple Salon harmoniously blends modern and minimalist features. It juxtaposes luxurious and plush details alongside organic and natural elements.”
I N - S A L O N
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I N - S T O R E
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CAREERS one of the few skills left where you can touch someone – it’s trust-based and allows you to build a relationship with someone. It’s also a portable skill that you can take anywhere and apply at any time.
Simon Ellis
What are the biggest issues facing the hair industry today?
In many countries today the biggest issue is recruiting staff. Hairdressing has a negative image for whatever reason, but it means we don’t attract the right quality of youngster. It’s partly driven by the lack of regulation and low pay. The second threat is the rise of social media and the internet hairdresser. As a result, some young hairdressers believe they don’t need to work in a salon or have a team. As an industry we need to improve our marketing and develop how our different social channels integrate with one another.
The Visionary
What’s the future of colour?
It’s becoming more premium again – expensive hair is coming back. We’re beginning to see that hair is becoming more finished. Clean and ultra-gloss are the buzz words at the moment, as well as punk/rebellious and antiestablishment looks but they’re being softened up.
Simon Ellis, the corporate vice president and creative director at Schwarzkopf Professional is known for his straight talking style. Here he reveals the issues facing hairdressing in 2020 How did you get to where you are today?
I always believed the future of hairdressing lies in great training and I always wanted to create positive change. When I came to Schwarzkopf Professional my aim was to make Schwarzkopf Professional a hairdresser-driven brand. My goal was to combine the brand’s German quality with British creativity. What is your biggest achievement so far?
I’m thrilled that the Essential Looks collection we create every year is now a global initiative that has
been sustainable for over 19 years. Secondly, I’ve created a global education network that keeps us at the cutting-edge of the physical and digital space. I’m also extremely proud that I’ve kept the greatest team – they’ve been with me since the beginning. What advice would you give to hairdressers today?
If you like it, stick with it – our industry is not easy, but the rewards are huge! It’s all about staying power and if you can put up with it all you can have an amazing career. Hairdressing is a social leveller – it’s
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What are your go-to accounts to follow on Instagram?
@Uglyworldwide is really cool, different and anti-establishment @Guidopalau is just great and everyone should follow him and @Charliemackesy is extraordinary and draws wonderful pictures on ink! What can we expect to see from Schwarzkopf Professional this year?
Schwarzkopf Professional is our innovator and premium brand and we’ve been achieving 7% to 8% growth thanks to our innovation on colour, care and styling. We’re also going to be pushing the Session Label, which is going to have salon exclusivity. What’s next for you in your role?
Latin America and Asia are a focus for us moving forward. We now have regional teams so we can adapt and implement local pushes and collect data, so it’s an exciting time for us!
JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.
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RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376
Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Wanted front of house team member for a bustling Chelsea beauty salon. As the front of house you are the face of the establishment and as such require excellent customer service and professionalism. Managing front of house entails: O Hosting the salon floor. O Always presenting professionally and punctually. O Securing and controlling the bookings. O Detailing administration duties. O Providing excellent customer service. O Maintaining daily communications. O Booking meetings. O Directing staff on day to day operations.
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
Wanted Colourists team members for a bustling Chelsea salon.
Wanted Stylists team members for a bustling Chelsea salon.
We are hiring excellent Stylists, Colorists and All-rounders. You are required to be highly professional and passionate about your job and be a great team player.
We are hiring excellent Stylists, Colorists and All-rounders. You are required to be highly professional and passionate about your job and be a great team player.
Please apply with your CV’s to info@vinokurov.co.uk and have your interview and trade test arranged asap. We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you soon!
Please apply with your CV’s to info@vinokurov.co.uk and have your interview and trade test arranged asap. We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you soon!
WE’RE HIRING
JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY
Natural Colour Works, a busy, established unique organic salon in Soho London, is looking for a stylist. We provide good terms and conditions and above average salary – we have 22-year-olds earning in excess of £28,000 per year.
Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.
REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE jobs.hji.co.uk/register
The right candidate will have: 3 + years experience on the salon floor All colour skills and advanced cutting skills Superb customer service and communication skills (English is a must)
Team worker and flexible (if required to work extra in very busy times) Work well under pressure Able to manage a fully booked column
What we offer: Competitive salary Fully booked column In salon training Working Tuesday to Saturday
Free hair treatment for you and 50% for family and friends Up to 40% retail discount
Job Type: Full-time, Permanent Salary: £25,000 to £46,000 /year 87 / hji.co.uk
Call us on 0207 287 0788
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation
To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA
0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk
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CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376
PROPERTY
JOBS
Guildford area. High Class Salon. Quality fitted throughout. 12 styling positions. £5,000wk (5 days). Good profits. Owner retiring. £45,000 (or £395,000 Freehold) Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. £4,200wk (5 days). A/C’s show £38,000 Net. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Newbury area. Very Smart Hair and Beauty. Good Lease. Superb location. Well fitted. £4,250wk. Very fairly priced £29,950. Reading area. Old Established Hair Salon. Good Class Area. Lease. Spacious Salon. Eleven styling positions. £2,500wk (5 days). Retirement Sale. £35,000 Wye Valley Country Town. Flagship Salon. Main street. Spacious Well Fitted Unit. Two Bed Flat. Tde £5,500wk (ex VAT). 5 days. £495,000 F’hold Addlestone area. Freehold Parade Premises with Hair Salon. Very Smart Ground Floor Lock Up Unit. £1,750wk Five days. Retirement Sale. £260,000 F’hold Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000
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INSPIRATION
Life Through a Lens X Passionate about the craft “This collection is special as it was my fi rst winning collection at HJ's British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. It represents an exciting time in my career. I went on to win Eastern Hairdresser of the Year three times in a row.”
n o s e e L k r Ma The global creative ambassador for Revlon Professional is renowned for his vibrant colour work and creating beautiful collections. Here are six of his all-time favourite images W Global tribalism “This was part of a Mark Leeson Art Team Cool Hunter shoot which was a slightly diff erent direction for us. The concept was based around global tribalism and we used diff erent textures based on diff erent tribes around the world. This particular look was captured instantly on the fi rst frame and as soon as we shot it, we knew it epitomised the whole vibe of the shoot.”
T Cut and colour “This image won the Fellowship’s Image of the Year award quite some time ago. It is a strong shape in terms of cut and the colour soft ens and enhances the image beautifully. For me, it is the perfect combination and a great example of making colour work with a haircut.”
S The one “It’s probably my most iconic picture from my Spotlight collection and won the British Hairdresser of the Year title, so I refer to it as ‘the one’. I’ve worked with this model many times and the whole collection is a true refl ection of my signature style of hairdressing.”
W Perfect fusion S Real distinction “This was part of my Distinction collection, which won the overall global AIPP award. I loved the irregular perimeter shape, which was emphasised by the lighting captured by my photographer Richard Miles. The texture fused with the depth of the shade and a little bit of pixelated colour really shows my passion for colour.” 90 / hji.co.uk
“This was part of our Sublime collection which won Artistic Team of the Year Yearat atthe the2019 2019 British Hairdressing Awards, Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Schwarzkopf Professional. It places us in the Hall of Fame. The The image image is simple and the amount of detail is elevated by the angle model’s head of the model’s head so so the the texture in the haircut and the fashion styling with its raw edges all fuse together.” together.”
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