Hairdresser Journal August 2019 by Hairdressers Journal

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

Protect Against Cyber Crime

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER August 2019

£5|August 2019|hji.co.uk 0 8

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CONTENTS

August 2019 News

Industry News This month’s news round-up

HJ Reports We take a trip to Wella Professionals Business Network Live 2019

Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our websites and social channels

Business Panel The BHBA winners on managing a work/life balance

The Debate Should you add a service charge to a client’s bill?

The Psychology of Retail Essential tips for selling products in the salon

A Worthy Investment Is it time to go from print to digital in the salon?

Business Success The 10 principles to stay ahead in business

JAMES EARNSHAW

Business

Features

Let’s Talk About Hair Loss Experts share their tips for helping clients

The Cyber Crime Fight Take steps to safeguard salons and clients

The Anti-Trend Discover the look that’s here to stay

Inspiration

Fashion Six exclusive fashion collections to inspire and delight

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Membership Offer 10 lucky new HJ members will have the chance to win a TAOH set worth £66 The Hot List The latest products to stock on your salon retail shelves this month 4 / hji.co.uk

Interiors Tuckwell & Co give a tour of their foliage-filled salon

Careers Jack Howard on how he manages multiple projects

Life Through a Lens International artistic director Cos Sakkas shares his creations

EDITOR’S LETTER

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

50 Managing Director Mark Moloney

TUCKWELL

& CO

LINTON &

MAC

Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369

We l c o m e

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377 Editorial Contributors Keysha Davis and Amanda Pauley

e’ve had a busy month at Hairdressers Journal International HQ. The editorial team spent two days capturing social media content and chatting to judges for this year’s British Hairdressing Business Awards. The awards take place on Monday 9 September at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge and all the winners will be featured in our October issue. We also launched a new campaign to promote our upcoming shows – Salon International, HJ Live North and HJ Live Ireland. The campaign is called #beYOUbePRO and it will celebrate what it means to be a ‘pro’ in the hairdressing industry. You’ll find more information and how to get involved on page 8. Plus, more exciting news – Modern Barber has joined our stable of leading professional hair and beauty titles and you’ll find the official Modern Barber stage at this year’s Salon International on 5-7 October 2019. In this month’s issue we tackle hair loss with hints and tips from leading experts on page 33 and reveal how to protect your salon from the growing threat of cyber crime on page 37. Enjoy the issue and see you next month.

Interns Michelle Sarkisyan and Evie Samman

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367

Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536

On the cover: Hair: Dean Bradwell and Crazy Color Art Team Make-up: Paula Maxwell Photography: Tony Le-Britton 5 / hji.co.uk

Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536

BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK

INDUSTRY NEWS

Hairdressers Journal International and the brands within our portfolio – Salon International, HJ Live North and HJ Live Ireland – are launching a new campaign called #beYOUbePRO. We want to celebrate all that is great about being a ‘pro’ within the hair and beauty industry. The campaign will remind hair professionals why it’s essential to shout about the amazing work you do for your clients on a daily basis. The aim is to raise the profile of the professional sector and shout about the benefits of visiting a professional stylist and salon for all treatments and services. Tell us about your professional skills and the training you continue to undertake to give clients the very best experience. We want you to receive recognition for working in this vibrant and varied sector that adds billions to the UK economy. Jayne Lewis-Orr, HJ/ Salon International’s executive director said: “We are passionate and

TIM SCOTT-WRIGHT @ THE HAIR SURGERY

Salon International Launches #beYOUbePRO Campaign

committed to the hair and beauty industries. It is hugely important the public recognises the value and benefit of the services being offered by stylists and colour technicians.” The initiative will start with a social media

competition where hair and beauty professionals can share why they love being a professional. Let us know what makes you proud about being a ‘pro’ using the #beYOUbePRO hashtag. Winners will be

announced at this year’s Salon International. Go to salonshow.co.uk to book your tickets for Salon International, which is taking place on Saturday 5 to Monday 7 October 2019 at ExCeL London.

Hair and Beauty Technical Levels to Launch in 2021

he new Technical Levels (T Levels) for those aged 16 or above will be in place by 2022 and it is expected the hair and beauty T Level will be available from 2021. Caroline Larissey, National Hairdressing Federation (NHF) director of quality and standards and a member of the T Level panel said: “We will be releasing the draft hair and beauty T Levels for comment this summer and we urge everyone to have their say. While we are convinced that employers in hairdressing and barbering will

always prefer apprenticeships to T Levels, employers are finding it difficult to recruit school leavers. Once T Levels are available, there may be fewer school leavers coming onto the market, leaving employers with little option but to recruit learners who have a relevant T Level.” The first T Levels to launch will be digital, construction and education and childcare. These T Levels will be taught from 2020.

8 / hji.co.uk

The qualification is a two-year Level 3 technical study programme. It will be college-based and it is expected to replace many of the current Level 3 qualifications. T Levels will not replace the current apprenticeships in hairdressing and barbering. The courses will sit alongside apprenticeships to provide an additional route into work.

NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates Meghan Reveals Post-Birth Style

odern Barber has joined our stable of professional hair and beauty titles, which includes Hairdressers Journal International and Professional Beauty as well as the largest and best-in-class trade shows and events, including Salon International and the British Hairdressing Awards. This will amplify the Modern Barber brand and will give the UK barbering industry the platform it truly deserves. This is an exciting time for Modern Barber and Rachel Gould is staying on board as editorial director. She said: “As an independent publisher Modern Barber was

privileged to be the first title to serve this incredible industry. My ability to champion UK barbering and build on the early success of Modern Barber is now leveraged and supported by the outstanding experience and resources of M Squared Media.” Jayne Lewis-Orr, executive director of HJ’s group publisher (M Squared Media) said: “We are delighted to be welcoming Modern Barber into our portfolio as we work with Rachel to develop the voice of British barbering in

the UK and globally. The brand has great heritage and collectively we can further its reach across print, online, social and face-to-face events to help grow and develop the professional market and support the amazing talent we have in the UK.”

ALEX BARRON-HOUGH

TIGI Holds European Conference 2019 Hairdressers from across the globe were invited to the TIGI European Conference 2019 last month for two days of education and inspiration. Anthony Mascolo, TIGI founder and international artistic director, Mark Bleathman, TIGI president and Tobias Kuetscher, TIGI Europe general manager, opened the event at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge in London. The conference launched the new TIGI Modern Classics education collection as well as the latest product innovation from TIGI Copyright. Delegates received business tips and social media ideas to take back to the salon. Mark said the aim of the TIGI convention was to give back, provide inspiration, show TIGI’s creative output and introduce TIGI Copyright and TIGI Fuse. The TIGI Collective presented their interpretation of trends from European cities and delegates were shown the TIGI Creative Team’s new Designer Collection which featured trends such as hip hop barbie, dancing queen and manga. 9 / hji.co.uk

The Duchess of Sussex has a new signature hairstyle, which will protect her hair post childbirth. She attended Wimbledon and the British premiere of The Lion King last month wearing the sleek low bun. (pictured below). Postpartum hair loss affects 40% to 50% of new mums and hairdresser Simon Hill, owner of SESH Hairdressing, told HJ exclusively the style will benefit new mum Meghan and he would also recommend it for his post-birth clients. He said: “During pregnancy the hair cycle stops and hair doesn’t shed. When a client gives birth the hair that would usually be lost over the past nine months tends to fall out in quick succession. The hair becomes weak and more prone to damage and breakage. By encouraging clients to wear hair tied back, like Meghan, they will lessen the chance of this and will give hair some healing time.” Simon suggests educating clients on the process and advising them on how to ensure their hair remains as healthy and strong as possible after childbirth. He added: “Conditioning and moisturising treatments are crucial and I would advise post-pregnancy clients to visit the salon two or three times per month to boost hair health.”

MATT BARON/SHUTTERSTOCK

Modern Barber Joins HJ’s Group Publisher

NEWS

Balmain’s New UK Ambassador Lisa Shepherd is the new Balmain Hair UK ambassador. In her role she will help generate content that engages and educates both salons and consumers. Her content will include product recommendations from the Balmain Hair portfolio, colour tips and trend predictions. Lisa said she’s always been a fan of Balmain. “I like strong, sexy stuff and this brand epitomises that. To be with a brand that is fashion-forward and innovative with products, extensions and now colour is right up my street!”

ghd’s Style Squad 2018/2019 Finale The ghd Style Squad were invited to give a presentation evening to mark the end of their training year. The event was hosted by Lorna Baker, ghd education manager for UK & ROI and ghd UK brand ambassador Zoe Irwin. Lorna said: “At ghd we are passionate about supporting the future of our industry and love working with new talent. We couldn’t be prouder of the team and can’t wait to see what they will do next.”

Francesco Group Marks 50th T

he Francesco Group celebrated 50 years in the hairdressing industry at its 2019 awards ceremony in Birmingham. The event featured a catwalk show by global creative director Claire Chell. She said: “The hair show highlighted our brand’s new trend movements and vision forecast for the next 12 months on

a couture and fashion-focused level. The aim was to inspire every hairdresser at any stage in their career.” Francesco Group founder Francesco Dellicompagni said: “From our modest beginnings in a Morris Minor van to where the group is today is outstanding. We are a team and a family.”

Jay Birmingham Joins Hot Tools Hot Tools Professional has named Jay Birmingham as its new European celebrity hair ambassador. Jay owns a salon in the Midlands and has a celebrity clientele. He creates styles on shows such as The X Factor and Ferne McCann’s First Time Mum. His responsibilities at Hot Tools will include assisting the brand on a consumer and social media level. He will also represent Hot Tools Professional at roadshows, events and brand campaigns. He will have the opportunity to work alongside the brand’s fellow ambassadors – Jamie Stevens and Robert Eaton. Jay said: “This is a proud moment for me. I have been using Hot Tools Professional religiously since the brand launched in the UK and I love the range.” Michelle Wilson, Hot Tools Professional EMEA brand manager said: “He’s been a huge fan of our product portfolio for many years and his expertise and connections will be a major asset to our brand.” 10 / hji.co.uk

Denman Chairman’s Achievement Award

r John Rainey MBE, Denman’s chairman, received the Outstanding Contribution to the Industry Award at the inaugural Northern Ireland Beauty Excellence Awards. He said it was a great honour to be the first recipient of the award. Paul Stafford of Stafford Hair who was on the independent judging panel said: “John has built the business, which operates from Bangor in Co Down, into one of the biggest hairbrush businesses in the world. It is used by professionals in every country and has become synonymous with excellence within the industry.”

SPONSORED BRANDS Takara Belmont Celebrates 60 Stylish Years in the UK The furniture brand has opened a new-look showroom in London to commemorate its 60th anniversary and invited HJ to celebrate the milestone at the new showroom last month. Setting the scene, managing director Takashi Hoshina extended a warm welcome and expressed his appreciation for the industry’s support. He explained the company has been on a journey over the past 60 years and he is proud of the wide offering Takara Belmont provides to UK salons on a daily basis and how the brand has evolved. HJ toured the new state-of-the-art showrooms and experienced the Takara Belmont Yume head-spa, which represents the brand’s commitment to forward-thinking innovation.

The Hairdressers’ Charity Raises £6,900 at Golf Day The Hairdressers’ Charity held its annual charity Golf Day in Scotland and raised £6,900. A number of hair industry golfers from salons throughout the UK gave their support to the event which was led by committee member Peter Belcher with the support of the event’s main sponsor OSMO. Peter said: “We had a great turn out this year as we continue to raise awareness of The Hairdressers’ Charity and funds for hairdressers in need. It’s a great location to play golf and everyone involved enjoyed playing whilst raising money for this worthwhile cause.”

VEGAN AND ECO HAIR BRAND LAUNCHES IN THE UK new sustainable and vegan A professional hair brand has launched called Moo Hair. The family-run company based in Edinburgh has created luxury salon products that are kind to hair and the environment. The brand has spent the past two years working with chemists and hairdressers to develop the range using pure natural ingredients, including responsibly harvested Icelandic moss, fair trade Madagascan marula oil and sea salt from renewable sources. Most of the range is made from over 95% naturally derived ingredients with the hair spray being made with 86% naturally

derived ingredients. There are no parabens, sulphates, harsh chemicals, SLS or synthetic detergents. All of the products are over 96% biodegradable, are free from artificial colourings and smell great. Moo Hair prides itself on being 100% vegan and will never sell to countries that test products on animals. The packaging is made from glass bottles and jars which are 100% recyclable. The labels are printed on recycled paper using vegetable-based inks and the products are transported in recyclable cardboard. Moo Hair is offering salons £150 worth of free items when a salon purchases six sets of the entire range. Go to moohair.com to order.

EXCLUSIVE TANGLE TEEZER EVENING AT SALON INTERNATIONAL

oin Tangle Teezer’s founder and inventor Shaun Pulfrey for an exclusive evening event dedicated to the awardwinning detangling hairbrush brand at Salon International. The evening will be filled with hairstyle inspiration and education. There will be demonstrations from Shaun P and his team of creatives using the full range of Tangle Teezer hairbrushes. Whether you are a salon owner or an independent stylist, you can experience first hand how Tangle Teezer’s innovative detangling, blow-drying and styling tools can help you to deliver an exceptional salon experience with 11 / hji.co.uk

healthy-looking hair that your clients will love. You will enjoy a selection of delicious canapés and fizz and you will also receive a complimentary gift worth £50 to take home. The event will take place on Saturday 5 October at 7pm-9pm at the Crowne Plaza, London Docklands (near ExCeL London). For full details and to book your place with a £10 booking fee, please visit eventtangle-teezer.eventbrite.co.uk.

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HJ REPORTS

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX Two days at The Belfry in the West Midlands left Wella Professionals Business Network Live delegates feeling inspired, excited and motivated to build a successful salon business

or the past 22 years, Wella Professionals Business Network Live has given its partner salons the opportunity to listen and learn from some of the brightest minds and inspirational names in and outside of the hairdressing industry. This year’s Business Network Live

was held at The Belfry Hotel in Sutton Coldfield and hundreds of business owners and managers of Wella Professionals partner salons attended the two-day event hosted by TV hairdresser and presenter Michael Douglas. Michael welcomed Wella 14 / hji.co.uk

Professionals operation director Jerome Toulza and Coty’s general manager Nick van Holstein to the stage before the programme started. Workplace happiness The Rt Hon Lord Mark Price, former deputy chairman of the John Lewis Partnership shared a positive presentation around workplace happiness where he explained that hairdressing is ranked as one of the happiest professions in the world. Lord Price has always lived and breathed retail. He started his working life travelling with his father and as a child he helped him with his wholesale business. It was from here that he realised relationships are at the epicentre of any business. He said there are few businesses where this is more important than hairdressing. He spoke about the small things that created a big impact during his tenure as managing director at Waitrose, such as giving all customers a free cup of tea or coffee. He asked the audience: “What’s the first thing you do when you have a guest come to

HJ REPORTS your house?” He explained offering customers a drink at Waitrose was a small cost (it costs just 17p per cup), but it builds brand reputation and happy, loyal customers which, for the most part, means happy employees. The world beyond 2020 Futurist Graeme Codrington took delegates on a journey to 2020 and beyond. He invited the audience to imagine what the world might look like. He focused his talk around changes that are imminent, such as driverless cars and asked delegates to jot down the industries that will be affected by this. As artificial intelligence and robotics gain prominence in our everyday lives Graeme told the audience dentists and hairdressers are two jobs that won’t be replaced, which received raucous applause. “The 2020s has the potential to be the most disruptive decade of all time,” said Graeme. He closed his session by asking delegates to consider the technology that could be disruptive in hairdressing because now is the time to prepare for it. The value of hair and beauty Millie Kendall who is co-founder of the British Beauty Council discussed the value of the beauty industry. She encouraged delegates to value the industry in which they work because an in-depth survey, conducted by the British Beauty Council, shows how important it is to the UK economy. UK consumers spend £27.2 billion per year on beauty services and products with £6 billion of that coming from hair services alone. She said the tax contributions from the beauty industry pay the wages of 250,000 nurses and midwives, which is something she believes should make us feel proud. The value of beauty is immense and the facts and figures Millie produced left the audience proud and inspired to be working in the world of hair. Two sides of the mind A freestyle rapper and psychologist provided an insight into both sides of the mind. Mads Korsgaard and MC Supernatural gave an unconventional mix of academia and freestyle rap to show the audience the mechanisms of creative thinking, which is the foundation of innovation and the backbone of

d uglas hoste. ce r Michael Do Hairdresse y business conferen the two-da

the hairdressing world. Interspersed between MC Supernatural’s rap breaks, Mads spoke to the audience about divergent thinking versus convergent thinking – the former conjures lots of possible answers and the latter narrows down elements for limited possibilities. Freestyle rappers use divergent thinking to fill their verses with off-the-cuff rhymes and Mads argued this is the exact way that business minds should work to think more creatively. Being in the moment Clinical psychologist Dr Tamara Russell gave delegates an exploration into the mind by encouraging everyone to take part in a five-minute mindfulness exercise with alternative nostril breathing to awaken each side of the brain. “Attention is the biggest commodity in today’s society,” she said, so it’s important to check in with yourself and ask, ‘what am I doing and why?’ The art of resilience Rob Forkan, co-founder of Gandys, infuses purpose into everything he does. He became orphaned in the 2004 Boxing Day Indian Ocean Tsunami that killed over 200,000 people. He was only 17 and had to look after his younger siblings and get them all back to 15 / hji.co.uk

Coty’s g welcom eneral manage ed to th e stage r Nick van Holste at the st art of thein was event.

safety. The sheer determination and resilience required following that life changing event gave him the courage to tackle whatever life has in store. It also led him to create a brand that donates 10% of its profits to support the Orphan Foundation, which helps underprivileged children that were affected by the Tsunami. “Whatever is thrown at me I can handle it because I have handled that,” he said. The benefits of being different Stand-up comedian Cally Beaton shared her tales of being different throughout her life. In a school of 260 boys, she was the only girl, which is what started her interest in difference. It’s something she’s continued to face during her working and personal life – from being the only woman in board meetings for TV companies to raising an autistic son. Cally said: “What happens if we really dare to be different?” Escape to the chateau The stars of the TV programme Escape to the Chateau, Dick Strawbridge and Angel Adoree, concluded the event by sharing their touching and inspirational journey, which took them across the channel. The talk showed the audience how much can be achieved by working in harmony for a bigger goal.

M E T S Y NT S

E M G I RE P

• ADD HYPE PIGMENTS TO COLOR, CARE AND STYLING TO TAKE SALON TREATMENTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL. • CREATE INSTANT COLOR DEPOSITS, SIMPLY CHOOSE YOUR BASE, DROP AND APPLY. • A TRULY CUSTOMIZABLE COLOR, USE LESS DROPS FOR PASTEL SHADES OR MIX MULTIPLE DROPS TO CREATE A BRAND NEW TONE.

#BELIEVETHEHYPE

FOR HYPE PIGMENT SYSTEM EDUCATION VISIT OUR SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS.

CRAZY COLOR

@CRAZYCOLORLTD

Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

The Shag is Back! O

ne of the most divisive haircuts is back on the trend radar. The shag, which was popularised in the 1970s, is having a 2019 revival. Judging by the feedback from our online community people are ready for it. You can decide for yourself on our website now.

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@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

SHUTTERSTOCK

@hji

@hjinteractive

Social Shout Out

The Hair Historian Hijack – Blondes

or this month’s Hijack, the Hair Historian takes us on a journey through blondes. From ancient Egypt to present day, the fascination with blonde hair has always been strong and the lengths that people have gone to achieve it is remarkable.

@glam.by.heather Heather’s Instagram feed is just one dreamy transformation after another. She also posts inspiration pictures so you can see how the looks become a reality. Akesha, digital editor

@guidopalau Guido’s grid is filled with striking side profile images that show how hair can be transformed into mesmerising works of art. Laura, editor

LGBTQ+ Pride Month may be over but support for the LGBTQ+ community should be present all year round. To find out how the hairdressing and barbering community can be more inclusive, content editor Charlotte spoke to Open Barbers. You can read the insightful interview on our website now.

ONE MONTH TO GO! The British Hairdressing Business Awards 2019 is taking place on 9 September. Who will take home a trophy at one of the biggest nights in UK hairdressing? We can’t wait to find out. You can follow the action using the hashtag #BHBA19 on Instagram and Twitter. 19 / hji.co.uk

@thehairartiste Recently profiled by US website The Cut, New York hair stylist Illeshia Lussiano’s grid is full of braids, backstage shots and bridal hair. Charlotte, content editor

BUSINESS PANEL

How do you create a healthy work/life balance in the salon? Working non-stop can lead to burnout, which isn’t healthy for you or your salon team. Here are some tips for making sure you have a happy and motivated workforce

Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year “A healthy work/life balance reduces sickness, stress and encourages creativity, productivity and loyalty. I encourage my team to have interests outside of work. A clear mind helps us all approach our futures with sensible lifestyle choices and this can only be positive for the business. As a salon owner, there are lots of pressures and work can become never ending. I have to be strict with myself and dedicate time to catching up with family and friends and enjoying hobbies. This helps me to make better decisions and allows my creative energy to flow.”

Christian’s steps to success: ∞ Interests outside of work are

crucial so dedicate time to hobbies. ∞ Always find time for your family and friends. ∞ Differentiate between home and work. I walk to and from the salon each day and this gives me time to clear my mind.

Name: Natalie Love Salon: Edward James London Award: Salon of the Year 1

Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2

“Ensuring your team is balanced, refreshed and ready to represent your company is important as a happy team equals happy guests. As an employer it’s your responsibility to think differently and find ways to get the best out of your team. A stressed-out team will burn out, resulting in reduced performance and a drop in your staff retention. Equally, a happy leader equals a happy team. When you exhaust yourself your team feel it too. To be an effective leader you need energy, clarity and focus – three elements that thrive with a perfect work/life balance.”

“I grew up in an era when work/ life balance didn’t exist so this is something I have been learning about. I appreciate the generation today are more into experiences and investing in their quality of life, rather than working 12-plus hour days but getting the balance can be tricky. Previously, there was a direct link between working hard and making money but everyone’s work ethic has changed. Our industry and others, need to appreciate and embrace offering staff a career that offers a positive work/life balance as otherwise we’ll be left behind.”

Natalie’s steps to success: ∞ Ensure you cover your peak periods

Phil’s steps to success: ∞ Go 24 hours without complaining –

well and be creative to find a better working arrangement for your team around other time periods. ∞ Consider what would make your team happy – perhaps more holiday or longer hours but less work days? ∞ Invite your team to vote on your selection of new work patterns.

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to anyone about anything.

∞ Hairdressers are notorious for not

taking a proper lunch break. Eating well is crucial to creating a balanced lifestyle. ∞ Your greatest responsibility is to yourself. Invest in self-care to gain a positive work/life balance.

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Name: Hannah Kernick Salon: H&Co Hair Salon Awards: Customer Care, Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design “A person who does not have a healthy balance between work and their day-to-day life will not perform at their best during working hours. If you give your staff the chance to have a positive work/life balance you will find they will be happier while they are at work. This will create a better working environment for the team and give clients a more positive experience in the salon.”

Hannah’s steps to success: ∞ Give your staff random acts of

kindness such as the opportunity to go home early or come in late if gaps on the schedule allow for it. ∞ Interact with staff to understand their home life – be caring and interested in their lives outside of working hours. ∞ Try to avoid contacting staff about work outside of their working hours.

Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year “Burning the candle at both ends is neither positive for the salon or your staff. We pride ourselves on being a happy and excited team and we aim to offer lots of positive energy. It’s important to understand balance and mental awareness so that we can all be the best versions of ourselves. As a franchisee, I ensure the team do not do too many hours, take scheduled holidays and have access to full counselling support.”

Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ We prevent mental health issues by

providing regular appraisals, reviews and informal chats. ∞ We encourage the team to be active and healthy outside of the workplace. ∞ We help the team to work on their own personal goals outside of the workplace as well as within the salon.

Name: Steve Rowbottom and Marc Westerman Salon: Westrow Academy Award: Training Award “In today’s fast paced hairdressing world, the ability to achieve a work/life balance is becoming more difficult, but increasingly more important. Maintaining this balance is vital for personal health and relationships and can also improve the efficiency of work performance. A lack of balance can take its toll in many ways – physically, emotionally and financially – so it’s absolutely key to keep the balance as even as possible.”

Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year “Some days can be very intense and stressful in the salon. Clients often treat their hairdresser as a confidante and will reveal their most guarded life secrets. This can be stressful to carry around with you, so you have to take time out for yourself. Getting away from it all is essential. I love going into the countryside and walking my dog to let all of the stress go. If you don’t look after yourself, you won’t be able to look after your clients.”

Steve and Marc’s steps to success: ∞ Direct your energy into areas you

Janet’s steps to success: ∞ Take care of your health, eat well

∞ Don’t burn yourself out – there

∞ If the job or anything else is getting

will see the most benefit.

are times when you need to work at speed but there are also times when it’s ok to slow down. ∞ Don’t forget to unplug and switch off to get a sense of perspective on work and your life in general.

Name: Salv Mulé Salon: Academy Salons, Cobham Award: Retail Salon of the Year “A healthy work/ life balance is so important. If a stylist or team member is happy at home this will make them happier at work, which means they will be more productive and proactive. This will encourage clients to spend more and return to your salon so it’s crucial to care for your team because none of us are machines.”

Salv’s steps to success: ∞ Being flexible over working

hours is the mark of an enlightened employer and can help you to retain your key workforce, especially those with children. ∞ Giving a good holiday allowance will also encourage loyalty within your team. ∞ Creating team building events will strengthen bonds between the team from the top to the bottom and it will be enjoyable for everyone.

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and get quality sleep.

on top of you – talk to someone.

∞ You’ve got to take time out for you. If you’re not feeling your best your work on the salon floor won’t be either. Get away from hairdressing and do something totally different.

Name: Mila Timberlake and Natalia Irvine Salon: Rainbow Room International Award: Front of House Team “It’s important for the team to obtain a healthy work/life balance as it can help reduce stress and anxiety. It is also crucial for mental and physical health. We are all about mindfulness and ensuring our team has a good mindset. It means they can fulfil their highest standards at work and increase productivity and ultimately their performance.”

Mila and Natalia’s steps to success: ∞ Encourage the team to take breaks

throughout the day and to have some time away from the salon floor. ∞ Ensure paper work and emails are dealt with during work time and factor this into the working day. ∞ Leave personal issues at home as otherwise they could jeopardise your client relationships.

BUSINESS

The Debate

Should you add a service charge? Yes

“A service charge should not be frowned upon – it should be celebrated.”

“The problem is that most hairdressing salons don’t charge clients enough.”

There are some salons in the UK who wouldn’t feel comfortable adding a service charge to their bill because they already feel uncomfortable with the prices they are charging clients for their services. For these salons adding a discretionary service charge onto the bill might be seen as too much of a risky move. In saying this, we do need to take a different approach to raise prices within the UK hairdressing industry and to help clients understand the professional service we are providing for them. Think about it this way – taxi drivers expect a tip after driving a customer from A to B and they don’t really provide a personal service so why can’t stylists expect a tip after each and every professional service? If clients do not see the need to tip for the professional service that is being provided or are unsure of how much to tip, adding a service charge could keep everyone happy and eventually will be seen as the norm. I believe this is a UK-specific issue and not a global one. A service charge should not be frowned upon – it should be celebrated. I personally feel this would help to raise the standards of the industry and for it to be seen as the true service industry it really is. I find it a lot easier when I am presented with the option of either a 5%, 10% or 20% tip when using a card machine to pay for a bill in a restaurant. If the industry doesn’t adopt this discretionary tipping method, it is almost saying we are not providing a great service and we all know that we are. When we are in a restaurant, we feel quite happy to add the tip for a great meal and service so what is different about the service provided in a hair salon?

In my opinion, the hairdressing industry is a service industry and so to add another service charge to an appointment charge would be inappropriate. If you are charging what you and your salon team are worth in the first place, there shouldn’t be a need to add an additional service charge at the end of an appointment. The problem is that most hairdressing salons don’t charge enough in the first place. Most of my clients do automatically tip between 10% and 15% after every appointment. A small tip would be £5 and assistants routinely receive between £2 and £5. I believe a fair amount for a tip – providing the client is happy with the service you have given them – is 10%. I think it is acceptable to include a service charge in a restaurant, but it would be frowned upon in a hair salon. If my clients saw that an extra charge for their service had been added to their bill they would react badly. No-one likes being charged extras in my experience. Often customers in a restaurant resent the service charge being added to their bill so they don’t tip at all as a result or they think they have paid enough already. In a restaurant the customer doesn’t have the same relationship with their waiter as they do with their hairdresser. A hairdresser is changing the client’s appearance and giving them a personalised service. It is because of this personal approach that I think it’s up to the customer to decide whether they want to tip or not. Your client shouldn’t feel obliged to tip in the same way that they might feel they should in a restaurant. The choice should be with your client on whether they want to tip their hairdresser as this will keep a long and loyal relationship.

Jo Robertson, hair brand and business consultant

Salv Mulé, owner, Academy Salons

22 / hji.co.uk

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One salon owner and one business consultant discuss the pros and cons of adding a tip to a client’s bill at the end of their appointment

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CREATE BOLDLY STYLE MASTERS CALIFORNIA DAYS BY BODIL JANE

Revlon Professional kicks off an exciting new packaging collaboration with artists from all over the world

ummery, bold and bright – that’s how best to describe California Days by Bodil Jane. This limited edition range jump starts Revlon Professional’s collaboration with graphic artists from across the globe. The two limited edition Style Masters products will stand out in the salon, perk up your kitbag and fly off your retail shelf. Revlon Professional believes that hairdressers and artists share a common

language – creativity. This sense of imagination can be seen in Bodil’s work. She is an illustrator from the Netherlands whose pieces are playful, bold and full of colour. Often focusing on the female world, Bodil depicts modern characters and strong statements in her art. Her work has been published in The New Yorker, The New York Times and by Penguin Random House. Bodil has also collaborated with UNICEF and the Van Gogh Museum.

Meet the bold products These two Style Masters heroes have been given a new outfit for summer but still contain your favourite formulations Get wavy Style Masters Glory Waves is a texturising spray that creates and defines natural waves on mid-length hair. Reach for it when you want to control frizz and volume while leaving hair soft, flexible and manageable. £12.50 Texture queen Give extra texture to undone styles with Style Masters Molding Cream. The product is formulated to give a weightless, non-greasy finish with long-lasting hold. £11.80 For more details in the UK call 020 7391 7440 or email customerservice.uk@revlon.com. For more details in Ireland call 018869300 or email customerservice.ire@revlon.com. Instagram: @revlonprofessionaluk

24 / hji.co.uk

BUSINESS

Selling retail products in the salon is a technique that anyone can learn if you follow these basic principles, explains business expert Liz McKeon

etail selling is quite simply an interaction between people. It is a profession and like all professions it requires skills and techniques that need to be learned and understood. There is one magic ingredient and that is the desire to be successful at retail sales. With desire comes belief – the belief that you can achieve targets and goals that are set for you. ‘I can do it’ is a powerful way of thinking and should be combined with your professionalism and knowledge. As a trained professional stylist with excellent retail brands and products in your salon, you are the expert. Why don’t you encourage clients to buy from you? Clients love to buy products and if they don’t buy from you – they will buy from someone else.

Understanding clients’ needs It is important to identify what people want and to partner this with products that will suit their needs and concerns. You have this knowledge already so the first point to remember is that people buy into you and your personality. People who identify with you, like you and feel grateful because you have gone that extra mile and provided free advice. These clients will remember your name and will be delighted to give you the extra sale. As a salon owner or stylist, you probably don’t have a degree in psychology. In saying this, successful

retailers use psychology to appeal to clients sometimes without realising it. At a basic level, all humans want to avoid pain and seek pleasure. For example, the pain could come in the form of a high price, while the pleasure could be a must-have item to make sure they can recreate the look you’ve created for them at home. Your job as a salon retailer is to figure out what pleasure drives your clients and how to get the best response. If you combine these persuasive psychological triggers with clever and effective marketing, you will master the art of successful retail selling.

Playing to your strengths Clients generally like people who are like themselves. For example, if you are assertive and strong with a client who is timid, this could lose you the sale. Instead, you need to lower your tone and move at the client’s pace. The same goes for someone who is assertive and not submissive – this person will have more respect for someone who is like them. Clients are highly intuitive and can sense fear and nerves. Anxiety will make your client feel uncomfortable in your company, resulting in them not wanting to buy any products from you. If you want to become successful at retailing, you need to forget the fear. Treat clients as individuals – each one is different to the next so constantly adapt your technique and tailor the sale to their needs. 25 / hji.co.uk

5 ways to master the psychology of retail

High pressure tactics are off-putting so don’t become too friendly or monopolise the conversation.

Look and listen for the buying signals from your client and don’t forget to ask for the sale.

Understand how to identify your client’s concern and adapt your communication and personality to match the client.

Lack of confidence in yourself or the brands you stock is a no-no. Keep the team up-to-date on the latest product knowledge.

Preparation is an important factor towards achieving retail success. Plan your day and how you will approach each client in a bespoke and individual way.

Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.

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The Psychology of Retail

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BUSINESS

A worthy investment Transferring processes from paper to digital could streamline your client’s journey in the salon, explains Ryan Fox

obile salon technology is the biggest advance in salon software. It is designed for tablets and phones, which means you can step away from the reception desk and take the software directly to your clients. If you give the tablet to your clients they can add all of their personal details while they are sitting comfortably in the waiting area or in the stylist’s chair. You can also use this type of software to get GDPR-approved consent to contact clients with appointment reminders, store their medical information and send marketing via SMS, email or by post. Investing in salon software technology is worthwhile because it will give your stylists all of the information they need to provide a quality consultation at the start of every appointment. Your stylists will be able to see what services a client has had before, how often they usually come in and the products they have bought in the past. This means they can suggest the right additional services and upgrades, recommend relevant retail products and offer the right frequency of visit for rebooking.

The holy grail The result will be higher service income, higher product sales, higher average bills, better rebooking percentage rates and better client frequency and retention, which is what everyone in your team should be trying to achieve. You will also find your stylists won’t need to crowd around reception between appointments to get the most up-to-date column information and it will give them the confidence to take ownership of growing their column on a daily and weekly basis.

Add client notes on the go Client notes such as technical colour histories, preferences, suggestions for additional services and product recommendations can be added at the start of the consultation or during and after the service to minimise disruption to reception. Plus, your stylist won’t need to catch up with their notes at the end of the day and reception won’t have to add them all in, which can be a massive task.

Digital allergy tests and images Skin testing is an essential area to get right in the salon if you want to 26 / hji.co.uk

safeguard your client’s health and protect your team from being sued. You can now use digital software systems to create skin test forms where clients can sign to confirm that they’ve been tested. This makes the process quicker and is useful for future appointments. A very underused resource of salon digital software is a pictorial history with before and after looks of a client’s hair or skin. Having this available as a mobile option makes this a usable facility that can also translate into a social media transformation-style post if it is done well. The transition from paper to digital is a big step for a salon to make, however you and your salon team will reap huge benefits in a short space of time.

Ryan Fox is a salon consultant who provides accountancy services to salons. For more information on Ryan’s salon accounts service please visit umbrellaconsulting.co.uk.

BUSINESS

How to Stay Ahead in Business Michael van Clarke reveals his 10 guiding principles that will guarantee business success for you and your salon

ichael van Clarke, owner of the eponymous salon in Marylebone shares the 10 principles you will need to follow to ensure you stay ahead in business now and in the future...

1 Invest in yourself

What you have you can lose, but what you become no one can take away from you. Who you become by achieving your goals is more important than what you get. If you suddenly win a lot of money it doesn’t change who you are, it just amplifies it – for good or bad.

Know your positioning

Decide on your place in the market. What does your salon stand for? The most competition in any business is always in the middle and this level always suffers most when economies turn down. Are you quicker, cheaper or better? You have to be at least one of these to survive.

3 Everything has to get better

Apprentices can find their progress slow during training. They don’t understand the power of winning one new client in their first month then turning that into two in their second month and then four in their third. They don’t understand that the same rate of growth will give them 2,048 clients in a year. That is the power of exponential growth. Most people do not get to the top because they find this period at the bottom too slow so they keep moving sideways in their career or starting again.

4 Have clear goals

Put simply – if your goals don’t scare you, they aren’t big enough.

“What you have you can lose but what you become no one can take away from you.”

5 What gets measured gets done This principle only applies if the information has more value than the time it takes to measure it.

Get comfortable with discomfort

Only through discomfort are we motivated to change. Learn to embrace discomfort because you cannot grow in your comfort zone.

Understand the 7 Sino-Japanese principle of ‘Kaizen’ Kaizen means making lasting change through small and powerful increments. I love the simplicity of that. In comparison innovation is where you make big steps as quickly as possible but this often ends in failure and despair. Kaizen is a realistic and stable way to change.

8 Practise, practise, practise

The Ferrari racing team show how important it is to practise. The team rehearse over 1,300 pit stop practices. On average they train three times, carrying out around 30 simulations per day and can do a pit stop in 3.4 seconds. In comparison, once a stylist is qualified they avoid further practise and training. If you’re 27 / hji.co.uk

not getting better, the chances are you’re getting worse.

9 Stay inspired

Very few businesses fail in a sudden crash. Most die a slow death. A slow decline becomes a quicker decline and all effort is put into trying to hang on to business rather than to grow it. Eventually life throws a problem that the business can’t deal with and it closes. Of course, the reason given for closure is usually the latest problem, whether that’s the economy, the rent rise, the crooked partner or the staff. But track it back and it most probably points to a leader who failed to stay inspired. It’s our responsibility as bosses or managers to change, innovate and stay excited.

10 Tick many boxes

We all have only 24 hours in our day and we must manage our time effectively. I structure my life so that my efforts tick as many of my important boxes (see below) as possible. ; Enjoyable for me. ; Good for others. ; Healthy both physically and psychologically. ; Makes money now and/or creates an income stream for later.

MEMBERSHIPS Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and networking opportunities. Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to the Membership Lounges at HJ Live and Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH and win a TAOH set worth over £60 AOH is a line-up of products created and TMarc designed by award-winning stylist Bruno with clients’ feedback in mind. The

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sulphate and paraben-free product range brings carefully selected ingredients and fragrances to every consumer. A collection of cleansing and styling products, including shampoos, matching conditioners, treatments and styling essentials, the range is infused with natural seed oils that give healthy hair with amazing shine.

If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY

Ten new HJ Members will have the chance to win a TAOH set, which is worth £66. The set includes: • TAOH Hairspray (£18) • TAOH Volume Shampoo (£17) • TAOH Volume Conditioner (£18)

Membership rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10

Become an HJ Member and quote reference HJIAUGUST

Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

For information on the range, including how to stock it, please contact Melanie Godfray at Marc Antoni on 01491 412270 or email melanie@marcantoni.co.uk. PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

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Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65609 August 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media

28 / hji.co.uk

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New and improved Hairdreams has updated its patented MicroLines Hair Thickening System to create a beautiful solution to hair loss

he number of hair thinning and hair loss cases continue to rise each year. Increasingly, it’s not only affecting the older population but the younger generation as well. Since the 1990s, Hairdreams has recognised the effect that hair loss can have on women. The brand developed its patented MicroLines Hair Thickening System with the aim of giving those experiencing hair loss increased confidence. MicroLines are applied with a premium 100% real hair knotting technique, feature a high quality micro-fine net and blend seamlessly into a client’s natural hair. Worn permanently, MicroLines can be treated just like a client’s natural hair – they can even be worn when swimming. Now, several improvements have been made to the MicroLines System. Here’s just some of the exciting innovations...

A speedy bespoke service As part of the Hairdreams Tailormade Service, experts work to produce customised and hand-crafted hair thickening pieces. MicroLines pieces are made to order and are produced manually in the Hairdreams manufacturing facilities. Plus, a new order app and advanced logistics process means that these customised pieces can be made and delivered in record time. An increased selection Hairdreams MicroLines Selection now offers a variety of more than 130 different pre-produced types of MicroLines for immediate in-stock availability. For example, for clients who want maximum length and fullness at the best price, suggest the new 40cm long hair thickening system which features affordable five-star hair. In contrast, the new 20cm length pieces are perfect to 32 / hji.co.uk

meet shorter haired clients desires. For those focused on trend-led styles, the new Root Shadow colours, which graduate from darker roots to lighter ends are a great option. Extra salon support Hairdreams supports its MicroLines salon partners with promotional programmes that span multiple media channels, innovative online consultations for the salons and much more. Stylists who are interested in introducing Hairdreams MicroLines to their clients will be offered attractive starter kit options. For more information about Hairdreams training and services please visit hairdreams.com. @hairdreams_UK  +44 7566294857 or +43 316 6057 644  crm@hairdreams.com

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HAIR LOSS

LET’S TALK ABOUT I HAIR LOSS

Leading experts explain how hair professionals can engage effectively and sensitively with clients affected by different types of hair loss

t’s estimated that at least eight million people suffer from hair loss in the UK, according to a survey conducted by hair experts Philip Kingsley. As hair professionals, we know that hair loss is often a temporary problem that can fix itself. However, it can also be an indicator of an underlying health issue and be triggered by numerous complex reasons. Irrespective of the cause, 33 / hji.co.uk

hair loss episodes can be distressing for clients. For this reason it is crucial hair professionals have a clear understanding of the different types of hair loss so they can empower clients to manage it. We’ve spoken to a group of hair loss experts to get their sage advice on what causes hair loss and thinning and how best to talk about these sensitive issues with your clients.

HAIR LOSS Pre-natal/post-natal issues While some women experience exponential hair growth before and after giving birth, a significant amount experience hair loss. Consultant dermatologist and hair expert Dr Sharon Wong explains: “Women with pregnancy-related hair loss experience generalised shedding (telogen effluvium) from all over the scalp. They will often notice an increased amount of hair coming out in the shower or when combing their hair.”

Advice to offer clients: Reassure your client that this type of hair loss is extremely typical, and hormones are likely to return to pre-pregnancy levels three to six months after giving birth (maybe longer for breastfeeding mothers). Dr Sharon Wong adds: “Reassure them that post-pregnancy hair shedding does not cause baldness and that it will stop, but that it can take up to six to 12 months. Consider alternative hairstyles such as adding in layers or taking the length shorter to give the illusion of thicker hair.”

“Tell clients to consult a qualified trichologist or a dermatologist,” says Tony. “They will be able to diagnose the condition and differentiate it from other possible causes such as those which are stress or diet-related.”

Cancer and serious illnesses Those diagnosed with cancer have to deal with a potentially life-threatening condition and gruelling treatment, however the physical changes that occur are also emotionally challenging. “Chemotherapy drugs target all cells in the body universally by slowing down or stopping cells dividing, whether the cells are cancerous or not,” explains trichologist Shirley MacDonald. “The hair follicles are also affected causing some hairs to be abruptly shed. The severity of hair loss can depend on the type of chemotherapy drug. About 65% of women experience hair loss within a few days of receiving treatment, but for some, hair shedding can begin from two to eight weeks and continue until the end of the treatment.”

Advice to offer clients:

Menopause The menopause is characterised by a rapid decline in a woman’s oestrogen levels. Symptoms can include fatigue, hot flushes and for some, hair loss. “For many women menopause has no effect on their hair, but in those with a genetic predisposition there can be a significant loss,” explains Tony Maleedy, trichologist and cosmetic scientist. “This is caused by the effects of androgens which are male hormones that women have at very low levels. As the level of oestrogen falls after menopause, the male hormones can restrict the growth of the hair which results in thinning on the front and top of the scalp.”

HAIR LOSS SOS

Advice to offer clients:

“Advise clients on the most suitable styles and care during and after the treatment,” says Shirley. “The scalp may be sensitive and the hair fibre weak so avoid styling products and chemical processes like colouring.”

Advice to offer clients: Master chemist and hair product manufacturer Dr Ali N Syed has extensive knowledge of Afro hair. He says that a pre-emptive approach to haircare would be the best way to tackle potential problems like traction alopecia and similar conditions which affect those with Afro hair. “Prevention is better than cure but there are a number of solutions that hairstylists can offer their clients, such as using sulphate-free shampoos that don’t irritate the scalp.”

Poor diet and nutrition ‘You are what you eat’ is more than an often-repeated maxim. Diet plays a fundamental role in how effectively the body functions and contributes to the health of a client’s hair. If a client isn’t getting essential nutrients and vitamins, their hair will suffer. “Since hair is non-essential to life, if a diet is poor, nutrients will be used to maintain vital bodily functions instead,” states Zoe Passam, trichologist at Philip Kinglsey.

Advice to offer clients: “It’s worth highlighting the importance of good nutrition for healthy hair growth if you notice a change in a client’s hair,” advises Zoe. “The most common cause of increased hair fall in women is low levels of stored iron (ferritin), which can be caused by heavy menstruation. It is also common in vegetarian, vegan and non-red meat diets.”

Afro hair and hair loss Afro hair is fragile and delicate in structure, so it can be extremely susceptible to hair loss, particularly when exposed to hair styling practices which place strain on the hairline like braiding, extensions, blow-drying and thermal styling.

If you want to find out more about how to help clients with hair loss, visit the Get Ahead of Hair Loss event in London on Sunday 22 September. More details can be found at getaheadofhairloss.com.

Here is a selection of products designed to help clients dealing with hair loss

Angel En Provence Rosemary range is formulated to help stimulate hair regeneration. Thanks to key ingredient rosemary oil, it helps promote blood circulation to the scalp.

Using 100% real human hair Hairdreams gives natural volume to fine and thinning hair. The range of systems include hair thickening treatments, hair supplementation and hair replacement. 34 / hji.co.uk

Banbury Postiche has launched the CNC Non Surgical Hair Replacement System in the UK. The system works by creating a prosthetic scalp which is implanted with human hairs by hand.

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SAY GOODBYE TO PAPER FORMS It’s time to ditch paper forms because a professional client experience begins with the new Consult app from Timely

onsultations are great for building client relationships but uploading and storing the forms can be painful. To mitigate this, the team at Timely have relaunched Consult, a free iOS app that allows you to turn all your paper forms digital. Whether it’s intakes, consultations, waivers or patch testing, forms are a crucial part of your business. Manually entering data can often mean mistakes are made, costing you more time and energy in the long run. Consult provides secure customisable digital forms that look professional as well as making sure that sensitive client information is kept private. You can use industry standard templates, or design your own. Plus, it’s free and you don’t need to be a Timely customer to use Consult. Here are some examples of how you can streamline your business processes with Consult… Record new clients Setting up a client intake form is an important part of your business – it’s often the first impression clients will get of your business. It needs to be professional, user-friendly, and provide you with the right information you need to get started. With Consult you can customise the questions for your business. Think about what questions are

To find out more or download the app visit gettimely.com/ consult.

really important, who your clients are and the tone of voice and image you want to portray. Asking a client to complete the intake form on a tablet when they first arrive gives the client confidence that their personal information is kept private and secure, saves you time and eliminates any errors caused by manually entering client details. Once a client has completed the form, you’re just one click away from storing that information in Timely as a new client record. Capture consultations, waivers and consent Clients need to understand any risks involved with a service and in order to create a strong relationship they need reassurance that they’re in capable hands. You also need to protect your business and brand from bad reviews and legal liability by capturing client signatures digitally on your forms. Consult lets you do all of this. Consult offers expert and industry templates for consultations and patch-testing, or you can create your own forms based on the questions you need covered. There are free field forms where you can explain any risks and signature fields to capture consent. All of these can be stored securely in Timely or saved at your chosen location.

Keep standards high Providing a consistent experience across your business can be time-consuming for both you and your staff. It can also involve a lot of training. Consult allows you to create business templates and share them with your team to ensure you’re all working with the same forms. As the business owner, you can decide who has edit access and you can build a library of templates tailored to suit your business.

36 / hji.co.uk

Streamline your record keeping Consult automatically connects to Timely so you can upload your completed forms against your client records and have everything in one place. You can also access completed forms and check your client info at any time from their client record inside Timely. If you aren’t a Timely user, you can send the completed forms to your email or save to a location of your choice. To find out more visit gettimely.com/consult.

SHUTTERSTOCK

TECHNOLOGY

£894

This is the average cost of a cyber breach to a micro or small business Cyber Security Breaches Survey 2018

SAFE NOT SORRY Cyber crime is at an all-time high, which is why protecting your data has never been more crucial. These are the steps you need to take to safeguard your salon and clients 37 / hji.co.uk

staggering 56% of UK beauty salons and hairdressers reported that they’ve been the victim of cyber fraud, according to a 2018 survey of National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) members. Knowing how to protect your business against the financial, reputational and legal damage of a hack has never been greater. It’s a common misconception that high-street businesses are unlikely to be the target of malicious activity, with big tech companies more at threat. This isn’t true – the Government has revealed that more than 40% of UK companies (both big and small) have experienced a cyber breach in the past 12 months. Business secretary Greg Clark has announced the Government is now investing £70 million into cyber security to help small businesses become more resilient to these

TECHNOLOGY threats. Now is the time to take stock of your processes to make sure your data is secure.

What is cyber crime? “Cyber crime describes any criminal act dealing with computers and networks. Hacking can be a completely automatic process that changes your computer files after accessing a compromised website or suspicious email attachment,” says Ian Johnstone, software support manager at SalonGenius. “Even if you have anti-virus software it’s not impossible for your PC or Mac to get infected.” A successful cyber attack can cause major damage to your business, affecting your clients’ trust in you, as well as your bottom line. “In some data breach cases, there will be an immediate financial loss – a hacker could lock you out from your appointment software and demand a ransom to restore access,” explains Andrew Schofield, chief technology officer at Timely. They can play havoc with your day-to-day business operations too. “If you have online booking and appointments are being made maliciously by hackers, then this will fill up your calendar with fake slots, which will lose your salon money,” says Nicola Soanes, marketing and sales manager for Salon Tracker.

Threat one: phishing emails There are two main types of attack you should be aware of. The first is phishing emails, which are used by criminals to trick owners into handing over their login details for cyber security in the salon should be popular sites such as Facebook, eBay your top priority. Remember one of and PayPal. These emails typically the biggest threats to your data could attempt to get personal information be from an internal source. like your bank account details by “Set up specific user logins and claiming to be an unpaid or overdue determine the level of access required invoice from a reputable by that specific user,” says supplier you work with. Alice Smithson, marketing “You should never manager at iSalon. open attachments to “Generally directors “Creating emails when you and members of user-specific don’t recognise the management passwords and the sender,” team often have advises Andy high level access pin-protection Heathershaw, with general team for logins will chief technology members and officer at Premier front of house protect against Software. “If you teams having cyber threats.” receive an email generic access Andrew Walker, directing you to log only. The higher in to a service, type level access can view Shortcuts in the URL instead of and amend all files and clicking the link to ensure information whilst also it’s a reputable site before monitoring what other users entering any usernames are accessing.” or passwords.” If the websites you use for business Although this is an external threat offer two-factor authentication it only needs one of your employees (known as 2FA), then Heathershaw to open the attachment or click on recommends switching it on to the link which is why staff training on protect your livelihood. “It usually 38 / hji.co.uk

takes the form of the website sending a unique code to the mobile of the person logging in, which they must enter to gain access,” he says. “This ensures the person logging in is the same one who has control of the account as a criminal wouldn’t have access to your phone.”

Threat two: hacking Hacking, which is the shutting down or misuse of your website or network, is the other big issue that can lead to data being damaged or leaked on the internet. “Combined hair and beauty salons often store sensitive health-related information and credit card details for clients which can be of real interest to criminals. In the darker corners of the internet there is a market for these stolen details,” explains John Doran, director of engineering for Phorest. “The risk of all this being exposed could lead to fraud, impersonation or bribery, as well as humiliation and emotional trauma.” One of the easiest ways a hacker can gain access to your system is through sloppy password practices.

TECHNOLOGY

SAFE BET Keep your data safe with one of these reputable software management systems

W SHORTCUTS • The Shortcuts software is fully GDPR compliant. It has a pin/password protection for users at home and in the salon. • The salon can implement user access levels with personalised security settings so you can choose who sees what. Plus, the system will automatically secure your clients’ notes for added peace of mind. • Another feature of the software is a fully logged user history. • The salon will also benefit from automated back-up of data to Amazon Cloud, which will protect against cyber theft. From £69 a month 0161 9724900 shortcuts.co.uk

Bad habits such as using the same password across all your accounts or weak and predictable choices can put you at risk. The password 123456 topped the National Cyber Security Centre’s 2019 list of worst passwords with 23.2 million accounts using this sequence. Other passwords on the list included Password01, 123456789 and qwerty. “Creating user-specific passwords and pin-protection for logins will protect your salon against serious cyber threats. Choose strong passwords to protect your security and identity by using a mix of numbers, characters and letters, in a mix of lower and uppercase,” says Andrew Walker, head of IT and implementation for Shortcuts. Further ways to protect your network include changing the default password on your wifi routers and ensuring your devices are continually updated with antivirus and malware software. You can configure most operating systems to do updates automatically which will ensure you always have the most up-to-date protection in your salon.

X BEU • Beu has partnered with payment software platform Stripe to keep all payment details secure. • If client records are lost or a hardware failure occurs, all data is still safely stored on Beu's cloud-based management system. • Self-employed professionals own their own client lists and are paid directly into their own bank accounts. Search Beu on the app store to download for free Email info@beuapp.com beu.com

T BOOKSY • The option to set up an SMS and email alert to notify if a staff member looks at too many client details in a short space of time. • All payment details are stored securely by payment provider, Adyen, who offers a similar service to Uber, Spotify and Booking.com. • Businesses can manage client’s GDPR consents even if clients don’t use Booksy. From £35 a month 01323 700057 (UK) or +353 76 604 2760 (Ireland) booksy. com/biz/

T ISALON SOFTWARE • Salons can set up specific user logins and determine the level of access required by that specific user. • iSalon encrypt all data in the system, which means all data is converted from a readable format to an encoded version of that data that can only be decoded by someone with access to the key. • All SMS messages sent to clients include a short URL link to a client preference portal. This allows customers to update their marketing and contact preferences. Price available on request 01522 887 200 isalonsoftware.co.uk

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TECHNOLOGY X SALON IRIS • Database backups are stored in a UK military grade server. • Salon Iris offers a full security suite allowing you to create bespoke access for each individual member of your team. • Client consultation forms are encrypted both during the process of completing them and transmitting them back to your database. From £49+VAT per month 0121 314 4402 saloniris.co.uk

T SALON GENIUS S SALON BY PREMIER SOFTWARE • The company’s payment gateway, in partnership with Monek, complies with the highest level of payment data security. • It can set up password-protected staff profiles to restrict access to confidential data. Passwords are updated regularly to reduce the risk of hacking. • It backs up data to a storage device, which is vital for protecting it from an attack. Licences start from £495 with support from £41.95 a month 01543 466580 premiersoftware.co.uk

• Bespoke security control features let you decide who sees what. • Staff can access columns and update details from a phone or tablet with myGENIUS, which is GDPR compliant. • SALON GENIUS offers secure, automated cloud backups to GDPR compliant servers. From £49 per month 01202 311826 salongenius.com

T TIMELY • It uses hypertext transfer protocol secure (https) to transfer information securely. • Data is stored online and backed up minute-by-minute. The company also has independent security testing carried out by third-party specialists. • Servers are located at a data centre, protected by 24/7 surveillance. From £15 per bookable staff member for the basic package 020 3808 0465 gettimely.com

X PHOREST • It controls access levels and auto logout/pins, enabling you to identify staff members on the POS system. • It has locked down access, which goes with the Salon Management App, so you manage who can see what. • Phorest uses contract external penetration testers to attack the system to identify issues, keeping security high. Price available on request 020 7100 9290 phorest.com 40 / hji.co.uk

S SALON TRACKER • Password protection and auto lockout if the computer is left unattended for more than 30 seconds. • Privacy screening and audit tracker each time a client’s information is viewed. • Client fingerprint security in-salon, so only the customer themselves can activate their information. Available in three monthly subscription packages: Standard (£30), Professional (£60) and Enterprise (£90). 0113 3508230 salontracker.co.uk

Beu believes technology can improve relationships. A platform for the hair and beauty industry, it builds and maintains relationships between clients and stylists by making every booking personal. Trust Beu to take care of your clients between appointments. Find out how it can delight your clients and improve your professional relationships with them by downloading the app and getting set up now. Search Beu on the App Store to download it for free, visit beuapp.com or @beuapp on Instagram to find out more.

How to Attract Loyal Clients Beu is a platform for the hair and beauty industry that builds and maintains relationships between clients and stylists. Here are its top tips for boosting loyalty in the salon

oyalty. Trust. Reliability. These are the core values that keep your clients exactly that – your clients. How do you attract those top clients and stop them from getting a wandering eye? Beu shares its top tips... Market your “why?” Why do you have a salon? Why do you cut hair? Why should new clients book with you? One of the biggest mistakes businesses make is advertising what they do, rather than why they do it. There might be five salons on your high street that offer the same services as you at similar prices, but there is a reason your loyal customers consistently come back to you. If you don’t know why, speak to your clients and find out. Most of the time it will be because they have a great relationship with you or the other staff at the salon. Delight your clients User delight is a phrase that stems from web and app development. Ever ordered a pizza through an app? How did it make you feel when you were notified that your pizza was being made, or better yet, it was out for delivery and would be with you in five minutes? This is delight. Map a new client’s journey from the moment 42 / hji.co.uk

they discover your salon, through the booking process, into the appointment and on to booking their next visit. Imagine how they are feeling at each step. Often new clients will be nervous when trying out a new salon. Introducing yourself and offering them a drink as soon as they walk in may reduce this anxiety. Knowing their name as you introduce yourself and bringing them a drink with their favourite biscuit may delight them. The most effective place to delight customers is in areas where there may be some uncertainty or discomfort. At the point of sale or when rebooking is another key area. Giving your clients the option to reschedule an appointment in a couple of taps online, or through an app without having to call up the salon and admit they have double-booked, will go a long way to dispel this anxiety. Be personal Get to know your clients and remember they have a pet cockapoo called Pogo and an Auntie in Australia called Maureen that only eats canned tuna. By mentioning Pogo or Maureen at their next appointment your client will see you have invested time into getting to know them and they will be incentivised to spend more time with you in the salon.

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TRENDS

BORING HAIR DON’T CARE? Are we living in an era of boring hair? We talk to stylists about the mid-length look that’s taking over

e’ve all heard of ‘Instagram Face’ and how social media is making everyone’s make-up look the same. Could it be having a similar effect on your client’s hair? There is so much inspiration being thrown at consumers online it’s not surprising we are seeing a rise in everyone wanting the same Instagram-inspired hair. In 2019 this equates to the millennial mid-length look becoming the norm. Colourists have repeatedly voiced their concerns about Instagram creating unrealistic

expectations for achieving bold and bright colours in the salon. Clients enter the salon expecting vibrant shades that are often unattainable in just one appointment or can only be achieved by selecting a filter on a mobile phone. This new Instagram trend is different – the colour, cut and finish of this look is highly wearable and is easy for your client to maintain. It’s the kind of style that doesn’t require many salon visits for upkeep and suits almost anyone. The mid-length style with loose and undone waves has been a hit with millennial clients and 43 / hji.co.uk

TRENDS MILLENNIAL HAIR INSPIRATION These celebrities know what works for them and your clients will no doubt be ‘liking’ their looks too

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@poppydelevigne Poppy demonstrates how to wear sexy blonde beachy-style waves.

the trend isn’t going anywhere. “Mid-length hair with balayage through the ends is a pretty, feminine style that is celebrity-driven – what’s not to love?” points out Cos Sakkas, international artistic director at Toni & Guy. He adds: “It’s easy to manage, easy to maintain and it’s suitable for almost everyone.” In saying this, there is a way for you to take it up a level in the salon and give it a unique twist without losing any of the ease that attracted your clients to this style in the first place. “The best way to update this trend with some fresh personalised detail is to add a splash of colour. Style-wise, it’s a great length to backcomb and gently pull into a messy beehive or add a peek-a-boo fringe,” advises Cos. It’s all about the cut Padraig O’Cathain, artistic director at Gina Conway agrees. He says: “If I were to advise my clients to steer away from the wavy balayage look I would recommend adding a new cut. Creating a fringe or adding layers specifically designed to suit your client’s face shape will instantly change the look. If clients are frightened about drastically changing their style, a simple cut can make all the difference – with or without changing the balayage.” The balayage boom has meant colourists have been hit with a decline in colour refresh appointments. This is something that Sharon Malcolm, owner of Sharon

Malcolm Hairdressing, has noticed first-hand. “Balayage, in many varieties is still popular, which means maintenance and upkeep to clients’ hair hasn’t been as frequent as it would be if they had other colour services.” Embrace the balayage Some hairdressers believe the mid-length balayage look should be embraced. It could mean your portfolio lacks diversity in creativity but if your column is full, your execution is flawless and your customers are happy, what’s the problem? “Lazy girl hair as a trend has been around for a long time and is not going away just yet,” says Sally Brooks, HJ’s reigning British Hairdresser of the Year. “I don’t think it’s boring on anyone who gets it right – experiment with tones, fringes and bespoke colours to make it more interesting and unique.” She adds: “There is currently a move towards wellbeing with more natural looks taking centre stage so we will see long hair and balayage around for a long time yet. In fact, it’s not a ‘lazy girl’ look anymore – it’s all about high maintenance and attention to quality.” Whatever your stance on the mid-length millennial trend, it’s here to stay so embracing it with tweaks and customisation is the best way to personalise the style for each of your clients in the salon. 44 / hji.co.uk

@selenagomez If Selena loves this look, her millions of followers will love it too.

@thekatiestevens The Bold Type star went for the chop after the show’s third season.

@oliviapalermo She rocked her millennial locks at fashion week in true ‘It’ girl style.

@oliviaculpo This is how to wear glass hair and mid-length waves at the same time.

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sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977

The Lana, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk

FASHION

HYPE Big, bold and bright

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FASHION

47 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Clashing colour combinations and jarring patterns are a nod to the underground Club Kids who made the brand a household name in the late 1970s.â&#x20AC;? Crazy Color Art Team

Hair: Dean Bradwell and Crazy Color Art Team Make-up: Paula Maxwell Photography: Tony Le-Britton 48 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

THE

New Look 1950s meets modern day

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FASHION

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The concept is four girls from the 1950s who have travelled through time and landed in the West End of London in the near future. We were inspired by retro pin-up girls and gave the look a modern day spin by featuring beautiful, wearable hair.â&#x20AC;? Jennifer Linton and Jaye McDonald

Hair: Jennifer Linton and Jaye McDonald, Linton & Mac Make-up: Jennifer Linton and Jaye McDonald Photography: Rob Hunter 51 / hji.co.uk

MONDAY 9TH SEPTEMBER 2019 PARK PLAZA, WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, LONDON

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BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

BOOK ONLINE NOW

www.hji.co.uk/bhba BOOKING ENQUIRIES: Contact Lizzi Diggins on 020 3841 7365 or email Lizzi@hji.co.uk SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown on 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk

#BHBA19

FASHION

INDULGENT

Luxe

High octane glamour is back in vogue 54 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

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FASHION

Hair: James Earnshaw with Amika Make-up: Meg Lindow Styling: Sonia Genders Photography: Nicole Jopek

â&#x20AC;&#x153;These looks are all about dramatic glamour. I wanted the girls to look eccentric and glam so the hair, make-up and styling is over-the-top. Contrasting prints, clashing make-up and volumised hair with editorial shapes make each look a real statement.â&#x20AC;? James Earnshaw

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FASHION

Head-turning bold shades are so hot right now

S P O P R U O L O C 58 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: Muse of London Art Team Make-up: Viktor Taylor and Antonia Wood Styling: Kiera Liberati Photography: Mauro Carraro

“We wanted to showcase our exceptional colour work by creating a number of bright and pastel hair looks that are on-trend and in line with this season’s Pantone Colours of the Year.” Muse of London Art Team 59 / hji.co.uk

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BOOK NOW Visit www.hji.co.uk/bha or contact Lizzi Diggins on 020 3841 7365 or email Lizzi@hji.co.uk MONDAY 25TH NOVEMBER 2019 JW MARRIOTT GROSVENOR HOUSE, PARK LANE, LONDON W1

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FASHION

Abstract visions and striking styles

FRAGMENTED DREAMS 62 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The inspiration for this collection came from the Cubist art movement. I love how Cubism brings subjects together and makes them appear fragmented and abstract. I like taking something simple and breaking it down to make it look completely different.â&#x20AC;? Leanne Brown, Tint Salon

Hair: Leanne Brown, Tint Salon, Leeds

Make up: Zoe Johnson 63 / hji.co.uk

Photography: Jamie Cowlishaw

3 SHOWS, 3 VENUES Register for free tickets at www.hjlive.co.uk EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 RDS DUBLIN 20-21 OCTOBER 2019 EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020

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FASHION

Slavic folklore

Tumbling tresses are braided, plaited and adorned

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FASHION

Hair: Emily Sweetman Make-up: Simon James Styling: Catherine Barmley Photography: Conrad Lee

“I was inspired by ancient Slavic paganism and the grandeur of the Renaissance period. I’ve created a woman who is caught between these two worlds. The hair is structured and I’ve added ornamented braids and symbolic roses to finish the look.” Emily Sweetman 66 / hji.co.uk

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

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