Winter 2017-2018 Issue 3
MYOKO CONNECT
Myoko
Kogen
004 Welcome to Myoko 008 A Quick Look At The Resorts 010 What is New This Year 012 Myoko’s Longest Run 014 Beer O’Clock 016 Onsen Time 018 Enjoy an Izakaya 020 Moyko’s Favorite Guy 022 The Map 024 Bus Schedules 026 The Ski Areas & Lift Maps 038 Stay Safe in the Backcountry Publisher Editor Contributors Photgraphers Advertising Sales Design
Snow Connections Steve Williams Stewart Adamson James Robb Patrick Fux Mikiyo Williams Michael Grove Ashish Bose
Winter 2017-2018 Issue 3
MYOKO CONNECT
On the Cover: The Editor enjoying the wide open pistes at Myoko Suginohara Ski Resort.
Myoko
Kogen
Contact Information 1606-4 Hokujo, Hakuba Nagano 399-9301 English Tel: 080-3126-0247 Japanese Tel: 080-3422-9005 Email: sales@japansnowconnections.com
Published by Snow Connections
SNOW CONNECTIONS Myoko Connect
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Myoko Connect
ess developed and more traditionally Japanese than Hakuba, more variety than Nozawa Onsen and sitting on a much bigger mountain, more of lived-in and more vertical than Shiga Kogen, more snow than all three.... It’s suffice to say that Myoko has a lot to offer international skiers and snowboarders. Myoko Connect
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The region takes its name from Mount Myoko, the vast 2,454m mountain that dominates the south-west Niigata skyline and is home to five of the Myoko ski areas. Myoko is actually an active volcano, the second of five big volcanoes that cross Japan in a north-south line. Repeated eruptions in pre-history formed a belt-like geological region called the Fossa Magna that extends to the Pacific. The southmost of the five volcanoes is the symbol of Japan itself, Mount Fuji. Though “active”, Myoko’s last eruption was over 4,000 years ago. When not erupting, volcanoes mean fertile soil and hot springs (“onsen”), and it is as the latter that Myoko became established as a destination for travelers. The granddaddy of the Myoko onsens is Seki, which has welcomed visitors to its iron-rich waters since 1729. Akakura Onsen opened in 1816. There are now seven onsens in Myoko, with waters that range from rusty red to milky white and have different therapeutic effects. Myoko expanded in the post-war period with the Japanese booms in hiking in the 1960s and skiing in the 1970s and 80s, but the European influence of mountain-based leisure has remained secondary. To this day, Myoko is a collection of onsen towns with ski lifts, not a ski resort with onsens. Skiing got its start in Myoko at Akakura. In 1937, the Akakura Kanko Hotel was built as one of Japan’s first European-style resort hotels. The building of the first ski lifts in the post-war period sparked gold-rush style development, with small rival areas opening up side by side. These areas have since mended their differences and joined up to form the ski areas we know today. The main characteristic of skiing at Myoko is that it snows a lot! A typical season will bring 14 meters of cumulative snowfall, with most resorts hitting a base of 4 meters by late season. Despite this, temperatures are relatively mild, often in a range of -1 to -5C on the slopes. Unlike colder resorts, dress sensibly and you shouldn’t need an extra layer for the lifts or a facemask to protect any exposed skin. Unlike European resorts located high in the alpine, there is also no risk of altitude sickness. The biggest risk for most people is getting stuck in some very deep snow! For information on the separate ski areas in the Myoko region, see the individual guides later in this magazine. Most areas have wide lower slopes ideal for beginners and steeper upper slopes with great tree skiing through beech and birch forests.
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Myoko Connect
Rather than being isolated up a mountain somewhere, the ski areas are all directly linked to accommodation/onsen-centered villages where you can stay, eat, and ease the day’s aches away in the bath. If you have ever wondered how much snow a 75-year-old man can shovel, we’re sure a Myoko local will show you the answer. You’ll also see the vast array of machinery used to keep the roads clear in this climate. Some of it is very impressive. Myoko is located only 25km or so from the Japan Sea, providing local hotels, ryokan inns, and restaurants with a regular supply of quality seafood. Many varieties of fish are at their best in winter due to the increased fat content. Like other hot spring regions, Myoko serves up onsen manju, sweet-filled dumplings, and onsen tamago, runny-boiled eggs, both of which are prepared using hot spring water. Myoko’s unusual meibutsu (famous regional food) is “kanzuri”, an aged chili sauce made with salted peppers, fermented rice, and other natural flavourings and sold in small bottles. During the traditional manufacturing process, salted chilis are laid out directly on the snow for several days to soften the flavour. Niigata is the premier rice-growing region of Japan, and the endless supply of crystal-clear mountain water ensures local sake brewers have two prime ingredients with which to work their magic. Regular tastings are held around Myoko, but you can always just go to an izakaya pub and try them yourself. Life goes slow in Myoko, and the biggest news of late has been the arrival of the Shinkansen bullet train in spring 2015. The line is an extension of the Nagano Shinkansen that was built for the 1998 Winter Olympics, and now reaches Kanazawa, a historic city home to the Kenrokuen garden. The station for Myoko is “Joetsu Myoko” and trains to Tokyo take just one hour and fifty minutes. When boarding at Tokyo, be sure to get the “Hakutaka” (White Hawk) service. Other services on the line do not stop at Joetsu Myoko. For any down days, the Shinkansen now offers great access to Nagano City with the impressive Zenkoji temple and to Joetsu City in Niigata for shopping and gourmet seafood. An ever-popular day trip is to see the phtotogenic snow monkeys of Jigokudani. You can get up really close to them and they’re really cute!
Lying right on the border between Niigata and Nagano, Madarao shares the huge snowfall of nearby Nozawa Onsen and Myoko, a natural bounty that the resort is doing its best to share with its powder-hungry visitors. See Page 36
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Myoko Connect
The southernmost of the four resorts on Mount Myoko, Suginohara reaches up the highest, meaning the lowest temperatures to keep that powder fluffy. The resort’s 1,124 meters of vertical place it second only to Kagura among Japanese ski areas. See Page 28
The middle of the resorts on Mount Myoko, Iketaira Onsen follows the classic Myoko model. That is, tons of snow, steepest and best views at the top, gentle and wide at the bottom. See Page 30
With about 760m of vertical, Akakura Kanko (often shortened to “Akakan�) is the second largest resort in Myoko Kogen. The resort is centered on the impressive red roofed Akakura Resort Hotel. It is great to get your bearing from the hotel if you get lost.
Akakura Onsen has the only night skiing available in Myoko., where they usually set up some park features. Though mostly eastfacing, the resort has some northfacing runs that keep good snow when the sun is baking the rest of Akakura.
See Page 32
See Page 34
With only two lifts, one a somewhat rickety-looking single chair, the easiest thing to say is that Seki Onsen is not for everyone. The resort has its fans though, and they are devotees to powder. See Page 26
Myoko Connect
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With rails, kickers, boxes and whoops the new Ikenotaira Onsen snow park offers everything that a freestyler could ever wish for, from easy through medium right up to experts. Designed by pro snowboarder, Reo Takahashi one of the best shapers, yes that is the job title in Japan, the course will be a full 1km long! Takahashi and his team will groom the Snow Park to perfection every single day, giving it its reputation as one of the safest terrain parks in Japan!
If you’ve ever been snowmobiling, you know it’s a great way to have fun on snow besides skiing or snowboarding. If you haven’t, well, it’s time you tried. Myoko Snowmobile Land is perfect for everyone including first-timers. Snowmobile Land is located at Myoko Suginohara Ski Resort and is open from the middle of January to the middle of March, 09:30 to 15:00. Snow rafting is also available, where you sit in a rubber raft and get pulled along by a snowmobile; great fun for the little ones! You need to be over 16 to ride the snowmobiles and over 3 to ride in the snow raft.
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Myoko Connect
After being left abandoned for 11 years, Lotte Arai Resort will re-open for the 2017-2018 winter season. The resort famously first opened in 1993 by Hideo Morita, the son of Sony founder Akio Morita. The resort will offer a luxury hotel complete with swimming pool. The mountain is equipped with one gondola and four chairlifts.
Even when the sun goes down, the fun doesn’t stop on the slopes of Akakura Onsen. Of course skiing during the day is pure pleasure, but skiing at night is a real adventure, groomed slopes or amazingly powdery snow with the slopes lit up with giant flood lights. It does get cold at night so do add an extra layer for warmth. Akakura Onsen night skiing is open every evening in winter until 10pm. There are few different options for lift tickets, check http:// akakura-ski.com/english.
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t may seem obvious that a lot of snow falls at Myoko. In fact, Myoko topped 520cm base last season. But have you ever wondered why Myoko Kogen gets huge “un-expected” dumps of snow, or why Seki Onsen sometimes gets twice as much snow as Suginohara, or why it might be snowing at the top of Akakura , but it’s sunny on the other side of the valley? Most places in the world will get snow when there is a big storm system/cold front/low pressure system. But why is it that Myoko gets a lot of snow when there’s no storm? The answer is something called “the lake effect”. When a northerly wind blows in Japan, it’s usually coming straight off Siberia, so it’s cold (-20C degrees or coler). When very cold air blows across warm water, it sucks a huge amount of moisture from the water and forms cloud. In the case of Japan, the “lake” is the Sea of Japan. Moving from the north, the cloud hits the Japan Alps, rises and cools in a process called “orographic lift”, and drops snow on the mountains. You can actually see on the map opposite where the cold winds hit the Sea of Japan, and within 150-200km of the Asian mainland, cloud has formed. This hits the mountains of Japan, dropping huge amounts of snow on the side facing the sea. On the Tokyo side of the mountains, the cloud “burns off ”, leaving the Pacific side of Japan in a sunny rain shadow! In the satellite shot, you can see the air is still cold enough to form new cloud once it hits the warmer Pacific water. When cloud hits the mountains, it rises, cools and it snows. Generally speaking, the higher it rises, the more it snows, and once it drops the snow, the air has little moisture left after it passes over the mountains. For Myoko Kogen (and most of central Japan), the two most important factors are the direction of the wind and its strength. If the wind blows too far from the west, it rakes the coastal mountains from the side, and doesn’t penetrate far enough in-land to snow much at places like Hakuba, Shiga Kogen or around Yuzawa. If it’s more to the north-east, it is often a loop on a low pressure trough off Eastern Hokkaido, the winds are too warm, and the lake effect doesn’t kick in. The ideal winds are from the north to northwest. If the wind is too light, it may pick up moisture, but then it doesn’t hit the mountains and penetrate far enough from the coast to drop much snow on places 30-40km inland.
Myoko is a little different in that it is located nearer to the coast (25km), so lighter snow bearing winds penetrate to Myoko, where they may not make it to other resorts, plus those snow laden clouds hit Myoko first. Another factor is the location of Mt. Myoko & Mt Hiuchi which lay to the northwest(see map). These provide a lot of orographic lift, condensing the water vapor into snow. If the wind is directly from the north west, these peaks tend to block the main dump of snow from the Myoko resorts, but still provide a reasonable amount of snow blowing off the peaks. The best wind directions are away from this direction, blowing from the NNW, so the air rises off the peaks, but hits the Myoko resorts more directly. Seki Onsen is directly in the path of the wind, so gets the most snow. Suginohara is on the southern side so gets less from that direction, but it seems to get more on strong a westerly wind, unblocked by the peaks. Of course knowing how and why snow falls at Myoko Kogen is a lot more complex than just that, but if you know there will be a fresh breeze coming directly from the north, it might pay to head up to Seki Onsen for some deep, fresh tracks!!!
Myoko Connect
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e all have those dreams—skiing or riding forever down a run that just goes on and on (and on), without having to get on that lift back up. Not only do longer descents allow you more time on the slopes and less time lining up for lifts, but they start high like all the Myoko Kogen ski resorts, have with awesome views - and take you on a journey through some of the most diverse terrain on the mountain. So how good does this sound? A run a full 8.5km long and over 1km of pure vertical 1,124 meters to be precise. Interested? Then make your way to Myoko Suginohara, home to one of Japan’s longest ski courses, I did. Most people like a long run, from those of us that take a leisurely time, stopping after a few turns, to those of us who enjoy a thigh burning non-stop short turn knuckle ride. I guess I am sort of in-between….But for this I am going to attempt a top to
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bottom non-stop more sedate ski. To get to the very top Myoko Suginohara you need to take a few lifts, first stop is to take the gondola to the top of the Giant Trail then make your way down Panorama Trail followed by the two Mitahara High Speed quads. On the day I tackled the longest run, I was awarded superb views over the Nagano & Niigata plains and just about glimpsed the faded, but without a doubt, outline of the most famous Japanese mountain, the 3776 meter Mt. Fuji a distance of 175km away as the crow flies. After taking the obligatory photographs it’s time to set off on the first part of my long run. The first course is quite steep and not that wide with the number of snowboarders sat down, I have myself a human slalom course to navigate! I guess the snowboarders were discussing what features to hit in the awesome long Sugi Park lower down the mountain, I’ll leave that for the next run!
Next I turned left and made my way over to Shirakaba Course through the Connection Trail. Shirakaba which is Japanese for a silver birch tree, is a flowing wide trail that passes a couple of times under the Gondola, and being bright blue is not difficult to miss. This is my favorite run on Suginohara as it always seems to be immaculately groomed. Around here my legs start to yelp in pain, they are not used to being put through such a workout, I want to sit down and lie in the snow but I know that I need to keep going.
and more importantly it is time for that kebab, I am sure I have burned enough calories!
As we pass the car parking zones on the left side, I smell the kebabs cooking at one of the food trucks, my tummy rumbles but I have a goal that I need to finish before eating. I am now on the family trail and the gradient is very gentle, perfect for beginners, luckily I am carrying enough speed to get my last turns in. At the bottom of the course I get on the lift. it’s rather slow but I need to give my legs a well-earned rest,
Myoko Connect
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t Myoko Kogen Beer, they make the beer we like. Silky smooth brews with full robust heads and toasty malts that expand across the palate.
Using spring water from the snowy Myoko highlands, the lineup features refreshing yet full-bodied beers that go down as well as they look. Myoko Kogen Beer was founded in 1997 to celebrate the love for Myoko Kogen. The brews combine carefully selected European ingredients with ultrapure water from the snowmelt. Formulated under the guidance of a brewmaster at “U Fleku”, one of the Czech Republic’s oldest breweries established near Prague in 1499, the beers celebrates the contrasting tastes of malt and hops. The lineup has won numerous prestigious awards, including the Gold Prize at the International Beer Cup, and have been selected as Japan’s Best Beer at the World Beer Awards. Myoko Kogen Beer is lovingly produced with only the best ingredients at the microbrewery inside Myoko Kogen Alpen Blick Resort.
Lineup The pilsner is a crisp and refreshing tribute to this classic and ever-popular style with Saaz hops from Pilsen in the Czech Republic and only pilsner malt, making this an orthodox “single malt” lager.
Packed with high-quality roasted black, caramel, Munich, and pilsner malts, our Dark Lager juxtaposes the deep nutty flavours of black ales with the refreshing crispness of a lager for an eminently quaffable beer.
∞ Best Temperature: Chill to 4°C to 7°C
∞ Best Temperature: Chill to 4°C to 7°C
∞ Recommended pairings: Deep-fried dishes, meat
∞ Recommended pairings: Deep-fried dishes, meat
Hailing from South Germany, this whitish and cloudy ale is top fermented with two malts, barley and wheat. With the aromas and acidity characteristic to a wheat beer, this brew pours with a large distinctive head. ∞ Best Temperature: Chill to 5°C to 10°C ∞ Recommended cream cheese
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pairings:
Ham,
This Golden Ale draws you in with the glorious aroma of hops, but is balanced by a smooth malty finish. Not too light, not too heavy, it’ll have you going back for more. ∞ Best Temperature: Chill to 5°C to 13°C ∞ Recommended pairings: Meat, cheese
Myoko Connect
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ONSEN TIME
Getting naked, hot and wet with a bunch of total strangers is perhaps the most quintessentially Japanese thing to do. There are several onsen (natural thermal hot springs) scattered the length of the Hakuba Valley. The mineral content of almost every onsen in Hakuba is slightly different, and many onsens use the healing effects of their particular mineral mix in their marketing. A trip to Myoko is not complete without a trip to the onsen.
HOW TO ONSEN Step 1 Undress slowly and calmly, taking care to fold your clothes and place them neatly in the basket or locker provided. Step 2 Remove your towel from its packaging - it will probably be no bigger than a handkerchief. This towel is meant to hide your genitals, to rub a soapy foam on your body, or to cool your forehead in the hot bath. Step 3 Wash and rinse before you enter the bath - this is done while kneeling or seated on a small stool, and bowls are provided. This is one of the most important steps - bathing without first washing yourself is considered the height of rudeness. Scrub like you’ve never scrubbed before.
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Step 4 Enter the bath slowly and gradually, especially if you are in a large group. Upon entering the water, you may loudly exclaim your pleasure, and discuss its quality. You will then slowly relax as the hot bath washes over you. Step 5 After a dip, you can then exit the bath to scrub your body (or someone else’s) once more, until you reach a boiled red or purple color. You may then reenter the bath, and repeat. Step 6 In Japan, one popular post-bath custom is to drink milk, with many onsen selling it. Drinking alcohol immediately after bathing is not recommended (although it doesn’t stop many from doing so); it will dehydrate your body even further.
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Myoko Connect
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zakaya, or Japanese style pubs, are not only great places to diner in but also perfect to get an insight into Japanese culture. If you have made it to Myoko then you have to make it to an Izakaya! Izakayas were formed when liquor stores in Old Tokyo started offering a few snacks whenever someone came to buy sake, these stores soon began to sell a few appetizers and thus the Izakaya was born Time travel a few hundred years later and you have the modern Japanese Izakaya serving nihonshu -sake, shochu and local delicacies. Izakaya are friendly and social places where it is completely reasoable to strike up a conversation with total strangers. When you visit an izakaya, you will no doubt encounter the other side to the reserved and polite mannerisms of our Japanese friends. An Izakaya is where everyone can loosen up and talk about anything with not only their friends and co-workers but also with their bosses. The unwritten rule is very much like the Las Vegas rule, what is said in the izakaya, stays in the izakaya!
For foreign visitors, izakayas are great places where you can easily access and experience Japanese culture and are indeed a great place to make new friends as people are more open and may even wish to either befriend you or to practice their English with you. Although the budget and food differs between izakayas they are all casual and most importantly, reasonable. A budget of between 3,500 to 5,000 yen is about average for both food and drinks. If you are still put off by the price then remember there is no custom of tipping in Japan! Once you enter and sit down in the Izakaya, yes, Izakayas are for sitting not for standing, it is custom to order a first glass of beer, usually with the catch phrase “toriaezu biru” which can seem more like a greeting rather than an order. A small appetizer called an otoshi, is placed on your table. This is more like a table charge, at about 300yen – don’t get upset, they are not trying to scam you, but only to break the ice with this deliciously. Ordering can seem to be daunting for Izakaya first timers, but in reality it is
rather simple. Many Izakayas will have pictures as well as English menus. To order, catch the waiters attention by calling out “Onegai shimasu”, please – a very useful phrase to know. You can always order more at any time. If you ever get close to the staff or locals, you should ask about the “ura menu” this is a secret menu only known to regulars.
Drinks The Japanese themselves after starting with the first round of beer, may then move on to nihonshu (the rice wine that for some reason is commonly called “sake” in English, but in Japanese “sake” (or “o-sake”) refers to alcoholic beverages in general), which can be drunk hot or cold. There are hundreds of brands to choose from. Shochu – distilled spirits made from rice, barley or sweet potatoes among other things – is also popular and can be drunk neat, on the rocks, or mixed with water, fruit juices or even oolong tea. Naturally, soft drinks are available as well.
Food These days, izakaya serve all sorts of things, but the focus is invariably on traditional Japanese dishes that go well with beer and nihonshu sake. Among the perennial favorites are yakitori (pieces of chicken grilled on bamboo skewers) and oden (potatoes, vegetables, eggs, octopus and other things boiled in a broth). Izakaya specializing in seafood are also common.
The Bill Usually people share the dishes and split the bill at Izakayas. This will likely be a handwritten piece of paper with only the total bill on it. It is very rare that an Izakaya will falsify the bill, if in doubt then you can always ask them to break it down. Lastly, as you leave the Izakaya, tell the staff iin a loud voice “gochiso samadeshita”, which means thanks for a hearty meal and more importantly showing that you’ve enjoyedand appreciated the food and drinks.
Myoko Connect
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Hi Tak, please tell us a little bit about your past.
I was born and grew up in Karuizawa in Nagano. Do you know that I can sing the prefectural song…..I went to San Francisco to graduate in cooking, I wanted to carry on the family businesss as my parents had a restaurant at that time. It was while i was in the U.S. that I realized the wonder of the Napa Valley.
Your English is good….
Growing up in Nagano so close to ski resorts gave me an early love for skiing. I visited Vail in Colorado and trained for my ski instructor’s license. I taught at Vail for two seasons, during the summer months I operated a Japanese food truck, helping out on ski course design and an activities guide. I guess I was so busy.
We heard that you used to work for Arai Resort.
Arai ski area development plan was launched in 1988 by Hideo Morita, the son of Sony founder Akio Morita. He was trying to develop the resort with Vail management’s team. As I had such intensive work in dynamite training, the making of tree courses and able to speak both English and Japanese, I was perfect for the job at Arai. With the help of Arai development, I surveyed the mountain by helicopter, both skied and snowboarded down and basically marked out where the new courses should go. In the evening we all sat around, usually under the stars and discussed plans on ski/ snowboard school, rental, activities and tours. It is worth noting at that time during the ski boom in Japan, only Ikenotaira and Seki Onsen allowed snowboarding, we were the first to introduce a half pipe and brought over many of the world’s top snowboarders.
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Are you going to be working with the new Lotte Arai Resort this season?
I did help with the re-development and have a very good relationship with them but with other business interests, I basically do not have that much time. I would like to say that, as I was involved in the development of Arai from 1990, it is truly a pleasure for Arai to be revitalized by Lotte now.I would like to support Lotte with anything that i can do.
Any new plans for this coming season?
I am glad you asked. This year I will be taking over the old Spicy Rental store on the main Akakura St. The new name is YUKIBANCHO RENTALS. I have plans to not only offer premier rental items such as Gentemstick snowboards, K2 & BCA gear for the backcountry but also make it the center of activity in Myoko KogenI want visitors to pop by to pick up their rentals, buy lift tickets and maybe grab a rice burger or two. You may even see me bring out my cooking skills! There is also a secret place that I am building close by to Arai. Here we will do many projects, for example snowmobiling at night, building tipis on the mountain, look out for YUKISATO!
In what ways can Myoko improve on?
I would love to see the further development of the Myoko area with people
who are passionate about the area and not just here to make more yen. Everyone including both Japanese and foreigners have to play by the rules and make sure that all companies pay proper taxes so that we can further develop the area.
Where do you see Myoko in 10 years time?
I don’t see Myoko becoming a mini Niseko, basically a foreign town, I see it more in having a deeper culture with hot-springs, farming, summer hiking etc. Though I do realize that the number of foreigners moving here will increase..
What do you like to do for fun and to relax when you are not working? For me the best fun is to go skiing and snowboarding with my family. Of course we also enjoy other activities such as shopping, watching movies and dining out. Sometimes I have so many business meeting away from home, which is when I miss my family the most.
MYOKO’S FAVORITE GUY
TAK TSUKADA
Photograph: Kei Fukaishi Myoko Connect
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FAST FACTS
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BEGINNER With only two lifts, one a somewhat rickety-looking single chair, the easiest thing to say is that Seki Onsen is not for everyone. The resort has its fans though, and they are devotees to powder. Though a couple of kilometers north of the Akakan/Akakura Onsen resorts, Seki pulls in powder unseen in other parts of Myoko. Japan’s mountains are known for microclimates, and Seki’s is one of the strongest. It feels strange writing about the equivalent of a New Zealand club field in ordinary terms, but yes, there are two lifts, a double and a pair. They take you up about 300m in total from the base. The upper of the lifts is a single chair strung only a couple of meters above the snow which can need digging out on big days. This being Japan, paying customers can be seen helping the staff to get things going in the morning (!) What courses there are aren’t groomed as far as we have seen, and they aren’t really somewhere any fun-seeking parents might want to leave the kids while they head off for some thrills. What Seki is about is the large treed area that leads from skiers’ right at the top. It heads down the
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front of the hill via a number of gullies back to the bottom lift. What do you get? About 200 to 250m of pretty steep and deep, with various microfeatures you should be able to find fairly easily. Much longer runs are available above the resort for those prepared to hike, but should not be attempted without avalanche safety equipment (transceiver, probe, and shovel) and the knowledge of how to use them. The area’s huge snowfall, relatively high swings in temperature, and proclivity to microclimates should also be considered along with recent weather in any safety assessments. Travel in groups and proceed with caution. In keeping with the general vibe, the locals set up a small snow park at the bottom of the hill and often hang out there. Though not on the hill itself there are a number of restaurants and cafes in Seki Onsen village below, but some only seem to open at the weekend. To get to Seki Onsen either ask your
60%
INTERMEDIATE
25%
ADVANCED COURSES
4
LIFTS
2
LONGEST
1500m
ELEVATION
310m
accommodation if they drop off or get the tour bus from that leaves at 8:30am from Akakura. The cost is 5,500yen for return transportation, lunch & drink service and includes a lift ticket. Call 0255-82-2316 or email mail@sekionsen for bookings.
FAST FACTS
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BEGINNER
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INTERMEDIATE
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ADVANCED COURSES
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LIFTS
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LONGEST The southernmost of the four resorts on Mount Myoko, Suginohara reaches up the highest, meaning the lowest temperatures to keep that powder fluffy. The resort’s 1,124 meters of vertical place it second only to Kagura among Japanese ski areas. A meandering 8.5 km course from the top is also one of the longest in the country,
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but we like to come down a bit quicker than that. Orientation at Suginohara is simple, with the resort lying on two sides of a large ravine. The gondola base is on the Suginohara zone, lookers’ right, located up and away from the main Suginosawa Onsen accommodation area. Once off the gondola at 1500m, a short green run
takes you across the top of the ravine to the Mitahara zone on lookers’ left. Here, a covered quad extends up to the steepest runs off the resort top at 1800m. Alternatively, you can stay for the snow park on skiers’ extreme right. Two of the longest green pistes in Japan run down both the Suginohara and Mitahara sides.
8500m
ELEVATION
1,124m
Advanced riders and powder hounds should head for the runs off the top lift, the hooded Mitahara No. 3 Quad, which provides some great tree skiing off the marked trails. The snowpark on the Mitahara side has a variety of rails and butter boxes. The table top jumps are usually well maintained and range from the small to the very large. Much of Suginohara faces south, so the park can offer the most fun when the sun is baking the snow. Alongside the snow park run some mellow tree lines provide a good introduction to powder riding once the snow has settled. They may be a struggle on deeper days. Suginohara is part of the Prince Hotels group who offer various family-friendly services, most notably free lift tickets for under 12s. In recent years, they have offered free rental for kids on weekdays and the third Sunday of the month, and various events like free rides on a snowcat or snowmobile. Suginohara is about 15 minutes’ drive from Myoko or a little longer from the Akakura Onsen area. There is a free shuttle bus from Akakura Onsen that takes thirty to forty minutes. Check the Suginohara website for information on events www.princehotels.com/en/ ski/myoko_kogen/
FAST FACTS
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BEGINNER you may find here compared to the better-known Myoko resorts at peak times, and the craft brewery located near the base. The middle of the resorts on Mount Myoko, Iketaira Onsen follows the classic Myoko model. That is, tons of snow, steepest and best views at the
top, gentle and wide at the bottom, onsens at the base. What may attract you here are the extensive park, the large kids’ area, the lower numbers
Access from the base area is by a pair (!) lift that gets you up most of the resort’s 640 meters of vertical. A short ride down the wide run to skier’s right takes you to the hooded quad that heads to the resort top at 1400m. An old course remains higher up, but is no longer lift served. Head to skiers’ right from the top for the easiest trees to hit and the two short sections that serve as the resort’s only advanced runs. A separate pair lift gives access to this part of the upper mountain. Skiers’ left from the top takes you back to the main wide run that is flanked by “Go Go Park”, the largest snow park in Myoko. The upper section usually has three big consecutive tabletops where you can showcase your skills to the folks riding the quad. The lower section of the park is more focused on jibbing with all manner of boxes and curved rails. The park is great for riders and skiers of all abilities. For those with little ones, there is a large play area at the base with a magic carpet, a fenced-off sledging area, and a big slide in the shape of “Ikebei”, the resort’s mascot.
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Myoko Connect
45%
INTERMEDIATE
20%
ADVANCED COURSES
10
LIFTS
6
LONGEST
4000m
ELEVATION
740m
Entry is free, but it’s only open on weekends. Ikenotaira Onsen does some fantastic discounted deals on season passes, lift ticket/ meal coupon combinations, and accommodation packs for short-term visitors. The information is in Japanese, so ask at your accommodation or get someone to help you read the resort website. Last but not least, the beer! About 300m from the base you’ll find the Myoko Kogen Beer Hall. They have a huge buffet with crab, sushi, and barbecued lamb, with a very reasonable all-you-can-drink option for their Weizen, Pilsner and Dark Lager brewed onsite. Note that advanced reservations are required.
FAST FACTS
40%
BEGINNER
30%
INTERMEDIATE
30%
ADVANCED COURSES
10
LIFTS
7
LONGEST
4500m
ELEVATION
760m
With about 760m of vertical, Akakura Kanko (often shortened to “Akakan”) is the second biggest resort in Myoko. The resort is centered on the Akakura Resort Hotel, originally built in 1937 as one of Japan’s first European-style resort hotels. The area shares the eastern flank of Mount Myoko with its smaller neighbour, Akakura Onsen Ski Resort, which can be ridden on the same ticket for a few hundred yen extra. Those wanting to play numbers will be disappointed with Akakan; the resort sports a gondola and only six more lifts. Bizarrely, the trail map numbers them as “15” to “21”, we assume a relic of the past when Akakan and Akakura Onsen were combined and higher lifts also operated on the Tsubame Onsen side. However, the new Akakan is lean and still mean. It snows just as much and there is plenty of terrain where you can enjoy it. Orientation at Akakan is simple. The gondola takes you up from a huge carpark along the gentle slopes at the resort base, past the red-roofed Akakura Resort Hotel, and then over steeper forested slopes to upper mountain. From there, Lift #20 serves the higher “Maeyama” runs, along with some excellent offpiste, much of which is left free from ropes and fences. Powderhounds should also find plenty of amusement in the Champion area off Lift #16 and in runs down toward the Akakura Onsen area. Beginners and families should note that in addition to the gondola, a number of Akakan’s lifts are full hooded to keep you out of the wind and snow. While there only two real beginner runs, one below the hotel and another alongside Lift #15 which links to Akakura Onsen, both pistes are very wide. Intermediates can enjoy the whole resort, with views of Lake Nojiri to get the camera out for higher up and plenty of opportunities to try powder riding. For anyone riding on the joint resort ticket, note that it’s quite a convoluted route back to Akakan from the far side of Akakura Onsen. Leave yourself plenty of time at the end of the day.
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Myoko Connect
ko, in a limited area where they usually set up some park features.
FAST FACTS
50%
BEGINNER
30%
INTERMEDIATE
20%
Imagine you’re making an anime cartoon set in a typical Japanese ski resort. It snows like crazy. At the bottom is a small, sleepy town with family-run lodges and lots of onsen hot springs. The local people are friendly but spend half their time digging themselves out or driving around with two feet of snow on their car. As typical, the resort is not so big, not so steep, but there are plenty of places to play in powder if you care to look. Groups of school kids and old timers in 1980s ski wear abound. Apres ski is mainly just some great food, a couple of beers or cups of sake, and a soak in the onsen. What I have just described is Akakura Onsen. The slopes at Akakura Onsen rise up the slopes of Maruyama, a foothill on the north-east flank of Mount Myoko. The lifts have a complex history being operated first in groups, then as part of a combined resort with neighboring Akakura Kanko, and finally now as Akakura Onsen. The two resorts made a clean break for a couple of years, but they’ve started selling joint tickets once again. Reunited, and it feels so good! To ride both, buy a ticket for the “Myoko Akakura Snow Area”. The effective boundary with Akakura Kanko resort is the winding Elegance course that starts at the top of the “Yodel Number 1” triple lift. Go to skiers’ right from there and you’ll need the joint ticket to get back. Though the smaller of the neighbouring areas, Akakura
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Myoko Connect
Onsen somewhat belies its reputation for being “small” with 550 meters of vertical. As mentioned above, the terrain is more relaxed than challenging, with a firm bias toward families, intermediates, and beginners who are served by courses with easy, consistent gradients and plenty of places to stop and rest or have a bite to eat. However, advanced
riders will find some steeper stuff higher up, with the Maruyama “Wall” famously hitting 38 degrees. Though mostly east-facing, the resort has some north-facing runs that keep good snow when the sun is baking the rest of Akakura. Akakura Onsen has the only night skiing available in Myo-
ADVANCED COURSES
17
LIFTS
14
LONGEST
3000m
ELEVATION
550m
NIGHT SKIING
Yes
AKAKURA ONSEN Ski Area
MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT
Mad About Madarao Situated literally right on the border between Nagano and Niigata and being about equal distance from Nozawa and Myoko Kogen, Madarao Mountain Resort is perfectly placed for the storms that sweep across the Sea of Japan and dump the white gold on the mountains. No wonder it is nicknamed MadPow! Madarao is home to 13 tree run courses that have been thinned to produce open
FAST FACTS
30%
BEGINNER
30%
INTERMEDIATE
40%
ADVANCED COURSES
31
LIFTS
13
LONGEST
2500m
ELEVATION
440m
NIGHT SKIING
Yes
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Myoko Connect
spaced tree runs where you can let rip without coming too close to vegetation. These gladed runs that unashamedly go by names like “Powder Wave”, “Powder Theater” and “Crystal Bowl” are eagerly sought for their solitude, beauty and most of all for their caches of ungroomed powder. True to their names, Powder Wave I and II offer undulating terrain that will launch you up and then give you the softest of landings, on Power Wave II for all of 1500 meters. Powder Theater meanwhile gives you the chance to throw up some spray and put on a show for the watching audience on the lift. In fact at Madarao 60% of the resort goes ungroomed, so get there early enough and there will be plenty of powder on piste too. Back at the top of Madarao, heading down the other way to skier’s right brings you to the resort’s other claim to fame, its World Cup mogul course that is used for official races. We know bump skiing is not for everyone, but on a powder day its 1500m long course is one of the highlights with maximum steepness at 35°, and has an average gradient of 18°.
For beginners and families, Madarao takes great pride in the grooming of their gentler runs. You can also rest assured that the faster riders will be off playing elsewhere on the hill. Madarao has a snowboarder-only beginner course, a rarity and an idea that should be tried elsewhere given the popularity of the sport. The resort offers skiing and snowboarding lessons in English as well as Japanese, so international visitors can take a short cut in progressing their way up the mountain and hitting the powder in no time at all. Families travelling with little ones should note that a nursery called the “Tsumiki no Heya” is available inside the Madarao Kogen Hotel. It accepts children from their
first birthday onwards. Halfday care from 9 to 12am or from 1:30 to 4:30pm is a very reasonable 3,000 yen, while full-day care with both sessions is a bargain at 5,000 yen. Please note that the day care does need to be booked in advance. Madarao Mountain Resort’s neighbor, Tangram Madarao, lifts can also be ridden if you buy the Mountain Pass. This joint ticket also makes things easier to ride the powder runs on the lookers’ right side of Madarao. Shuttle buses to and from Madarao Mountain Resort are offered daily from Myoko. The buses leave Akakura Onsen bus stop at 07:40 and depart Madarao Kogen at 16:55 from December 23rd to March 4th.
“Dropping!� he yelled out as the camera reels rolled into action, the heli hovered above and the perfect line opened up below him. Four or five massive turns, some sluff management and then straight-line-it out the bottom. Smiles and cheers all around, all in a days work for big mountain freerider right. Yeah they make it look so easy, and it makes us all want to do it like them. 38
Myoko Connect
Those who duck the posted ropes, ignore signs or venture outside of ski area boundaries should know that each year people die in Hakuba doing exactly the same thing. It is easy to get in over your head very easily and very quickly, but even with a small amount of knowledge and a healthy respect for these mountains, you can make wise decisions to reduce potential risks. The following questions and recommendations are a brief run down of what off-piste enthusiasts should be aware of prior to heading out. Pre-trip Do you have proper training and experience to go outside of controlled resort areas? Do you know your route? Have a map & compass? Have an alternate route plan? Have you checked the weather for today, as well as the weather over the past week? Have you checked recent avalanche bulletins and reports? Do you understand them? Does your group have an experienced “leader” who can make informed decisions to ensure your group’s safety in and out of the backcountry? Do you have the appropriate gear for self-rescue? Is it in working condition? Have you informed someone of your planned route, back-up route and return time? Do you know emergency contact numbers in case of an accident? Do you have insurance? Backcountry rescues are expensive! Gear: Do all members of your party have appropriate winter clothing? Do all members of your party have the essential avalanche transceiver (beacon), probe and shovel? More importantly do they know how to use them in a rescue situation? Do you have a first-aid kit? Rescue gear? Cell phone? Radio? Emergency overnight gear? Do you have enough food and water? Do you have a method of ascending? Ski touring bindings & skins/snowshoes/split-board
The allure of the the most epic lines and the freedom of fresh powder fields calls to pretty anyone who has spent any time on a snowboard or skis. Blazing your own trail and making your turns off a face is what off-piste skiing is all about. Accessing the backcountry terrain has also seen a real gain in popularity with split-boards, great touring skis and many companies flaunting other backcountry specific gear. However, having the ambition and ability to get into the backcountry does not always equate to the best choice for your longevity on this planet. Lots of snow = awesome, steep slopes = great terrain, put them together and you don’t always get the sweetest outcome. The snow slides of the mountain, you are in the way, end of story. In most cases, it is the skier or rider that triggers the slide that takes them or others out and the avalanche doesn’t care if you are a hot shit skier or not.
During Trip If you are departing via a ski resort, did you fill out a trip route card? What is the weather doing now? Will this affect the stability of your intended route? Is everyone in your group comfortable with the terrain your route takes you into? Are you making safe and informed route decisions for your party? Are there other parties in the area? Will your route affect them? Will their route affect you? Who is above you/below you? Are there signs of recent avalanche activity? Whoomphing? Shooting cracks? Debris? Are you constantly reassessing the snow stability and your group’s ability? If you are unsure about the snow stability, stay to simple terrain away from avalanche start zones and run out zones and do not exceed your experience or ability! If you are unsure about the terrain it’s best to get a guide to take you safely out in the backcountry and enrolling an avalanche safety course is also a first step in acquiring knowledge that will invariably help you survive. Slide safe out there! James Robb is a backcountry guide with Evergreen Outdoor Center
Myoko Connect
39
• Womens Clinics • Rider Development
K
anazawa is one of the top destinations for Japanese visitors, but, is hardly known outside the country. Sandwiched between the Japan Alps and the Sea of Japan, peaks engraved on the skyline like a milieu to a stage, Kanazawa is actually off the beaten track. Kanazawa was at one time the fourth biggest and flourished city of ancient times. And is frequently compared to Kyoto, for its riches of ancient buildings having been spared by tsunamis and earthquakes and having got away from the World War II air attacks that devastated many Japanese cities. The Higashi Pleasure District is the only place outside Kyoto which has geishas. The conventional structural design of low roofs of glinting curved black tiles, gauzily patterned facades (easy to see out, but not in) - is unaffected. Geishas in ghost-white faces and intricate kimonos can be spotted, or heard practicing their songs and instruments - the threestringed shamisen or even a drum.
The Samurai region of Nagamachi is similarly entirely the same as it was since feudal times. Paved roads, amazingly free of the typical spaghetti interweave of overhead cables that frequent over Japanese towns and citiies, wind amid the ochre mud walls. Near to the canal, with its sliding paper doors, uncluttered interiors, meditatively peaceful garden and tatami straw mats, with the option of carp swimming in soothingly trickling waters is the Samurai Nomura family house, and is a peaceful abode for the residence of a warrior, But the main tourist lure is Kenrokuen, which was once part of the 18th Century palace, some of which still remains, and now is one of the three stunning gardens of Japan. Gyokusenen Garden is a more serene, and a bit smaller family-owned garden, in which there are zigzag paths under trees, moss-covered stone lanterns, waterfalls and rivulets. The shinkansen “Kagayaki� takes 1 hour from Nagano City to Kanazawa, which is one of the most stunning cities in Japan.
Myoko Connect
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NaganoSnowShuttle The stress free way to get home
21 Dec 2017 - 11 Mar 2018 (Full operations 26 Dec 2017 to 25 Feb 2018)
Resort Shuttle from Myoko Kogen - Madarao
Airport Shuttle from Myoko Kogen - Madarao Myoko Kogen Akakura Bus Stop *10:15 A M Bus
7:45
10:15
12:45
15:15
FARE ¥
Myoko Kogen Akakura Bus Stop
Arrival Times
21 DEC 2017 - 11 M A R 2018
Dep
Madarao Kogen Tangram
8:05
10:35
13:05
15:35
Dep
Madarao Kogen Hotel
8:15
10:45
13:15
15:45
Arr
Nagano
9:00
11:30
14:00
16:30
Arr
Tokyo - JR Shinjuku Station
12:30
15:30
18:00
20:30
Arr
Narita Airport Terminal 2
14:00
16:45
Arr
Haneda Airport Int. Terminal
-
-
22:00 18:45
*10:15 A M Bus
Adult 12.000 Child 11.000
-
7:45
10:15
12:45
15:15
FARE ¥
Arrival Times
21 DEC 2017 - 11 M A R 2018
Dep
Madarao Kogen Tangram
8:05
10:35
13:05
15:35
Adult / Child
Dep
Madarao Kogen Hotel
8:15
10:45
13:15
15:45
5.900 / 4.900
Arr
Nagano
9:00
11:30
14:00
16:30
5.900 / 4.900
Arr
Hakuba - Hakuba Base Camp
10:00
12:30
15:00
17:30
5.900 / 4.900
Arr
Nozawa Onsen - Chuo Terminal
10:00
12:30
15:00
17:30
Arr
Shiga Kogen - Accommodation
-
12:45* 15:30* 18:00*
5.900 / 4.900 6.600* / 5.600*
*Drop off at accommodation included for Shiga Kogen Only. Drop off time may vary by up to one hour depending on location of hotel
No hauling your luggage through crowded stations English Speaking Staff at airports Drop off service in Shiga Kogen and Hakuba + all night time arrivals. Accommodation is informed of your arrival on the ski resort. Dedicated Bus terminal in Hakuba
Safe / Comfortable / Affordable
Book online at
NaganoSnowShuttle.com Operated by JHN Travel Ltd(Lisc 2-476)
Hakuba ・ Nozawa Onsen ・ Shiga Kogen ・ Myoko Kogen ・ Madarao Kogen ・ Shinjuku ・ Narita ・ Haneda