Harry Magazine Spring/Summer 2015 by Harry Rosen Inc

harry A MAGAZINE FOR MEN BY HARRY ROSEN MENSWEAR NSW WEA EAR R

Match Point MILOS RAONIC HAS GAME

WE TAKE OUR FASHION TO NEW ORLEANS

$5.00

SPRING/SUMMER SPRI SP RING RI NG/S NG /SUM /S UMME UM MER ME R 20 2015 015 $5.00 $

HUGO BOSS CANADA INC. Phone +1 905 739 2677 www.hugoboss.com

A DRIVER’S SECRET WEAPON. I T ’ s t h at k i n d o f t h r i l l .

T H E A L L - N E W 2 0 1 5 A C U R A T L X S H - A W D .® Winding country road, or snow-covered passing lane, the 2015 TLX with torque vectoring Super Handling All-Wheel Drive™ (SH-AWD ®) offers an instinctively responsive driving experience. Loaded with technologies and performance options including a powerful new Direct Injection SOHC, i-VTEC ® aluminum alloy V6 engine; 9-speed electronic transmission; Jewel Eye™ LED headlights; heated steering wheel and more, TLX is the gripping performance sedan thrill you’ve been waiting for.

S T A R T I N G F R O M $ 3 9 , 9 9 0 .*

acura.ca/TLX *Selling price is $39,990 on a new 2015 Acura TLX SH-AWD ® (UB3F3FJ). Price of model shown, a new 2015 Acura TLX SH-AWD ® Elite (UB3F7FKN) is $47,490. Prices exclude $1,995 freight and PDI, fees, license, insurance, registration, and taxes (including GST/ HST/QST). Some terms/conditions apply. Model shown for illustration purposes only. Offer is subject to change or cancellation without notice. Dealer may sell/lease for less. Dealer order/trade may be necessary. While quantities last. Visit acura.ca or your Acura dealer for details. © 2015 Acura, a division of Honda Canada Inc.

P E R F O R M A N C E

C O L L E C T I O N

S O F T

Contents Spring/Summer S Sp pri rin ng g/S / um mme mer 2 2015 01 0 15

ERMENEGILDO ER E ERM RM R MEN NE EG GIIL GIL ILD DO O ZE Z ZEGNA EGNA GNA A most mo mostt sophisticated, so sop phi ph hiist h ssti tic ti ca cat ated, ed, fully ed ffu ullyy waterproofed wat te erp rp pro ro roo oo offed fe ed st ed sstadium tad adi a d um mc coat co a at in a ca carbon-coloured arbo rb bo b on n--c n-c -col olo o lo ou ure red silk sillkk si blend. ble b lend d. The d. Th T he interior in intter te errior e ior io or iss nylon; nyyllo lon on o n; the he eh ho hoo hood ood od is is removable. remov re mo m o ovvab ab abl blle e.. ERMENEGILDO ER RM R ME ME EN ENE NEGIL NE LDO ZE ZEGNA EGNA NA N A coat, coa c oa att,, $3 $ $3,295, 3,29 95, kknit, nit it, $6 $ $625, 625, 5 shirt, ssh shi hirt, hi r t, rt t, $395, $3 $ 395 95, and 95, and pants, an pa p an nts nt ts,, $415; ts $415; $ 15; 15 5; TOD’S TO T TOD OD OD’S S de desert desert des ser ser se e tb bo boots, oots t $575. ts, $5 $ 75.

74/

Take ake It Easy

Features

Videos

Fashion

48 GAME, SUIT AND MATCH Please find all our videos, including the following, at www.harryrosen.com, in Harry’s Notebook. • How to care for your suit • The proper fit of a suit

62 BLUES FESTIVAL

Milos Raonic aces his look by Josh MacTate

56 THE ARMANI TOUCH

Departments

Style runs in the family by Olivia Stren

94 A BANANA REPUBLIC’S RENAISSANCE Living in New Orleans by Joseph Boyden

• Folding a pocket square

99 CANCER ON THE RUN A victory for prostate cancer research by Gary Butler

EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER AND CEO, HARRY ROSEN INC. LARRY ROSEN

PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS

PUBLISHER SANDRA KENNEDY EDITOR JAMES CHATTO ART DIRECTORS BOB HAMBLY BARB WOOLLEY HAMBLY & WOOLLEY INC. DESIGNERS BARB WOOLLEY AARON RINAS PRODUCERS JUSTINE DUNK JEFF BRODER (ON LOCATION) PRODUCTION MANAGER SONJA KLOSS

CONTRIBUTORS TOM ARBAN LUIGI BENETTON JOSEPH BOYDEN GARY BUTLER TOM FITZMORRIS ANNA KOHN JOCELYN LAURENCE JACLYN LAW JOSH MACTATE CHRIS NICHOLLS RAINA+WILSON BRIAN SANO LISA SMITH OLIVIA STREN GARY VENN

EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR JEFF FARBSTEIN FASHION DIRECTORS PAUL E. SMITH SHANNON STEWART ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER JUDY SOLWAY PHONE 416 935 9202 EDITORIAL COORDINATORS MARIA DELOREY MEGHAN JANSSEN PUBLIC RELATIONS MANAGER TIM GALLANT PHONE 416 935 9224 HARRY ROSEN INC. 77 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1600 TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M5S 1M2 PHONE 416 935 9200

HAMBLY & WOOLLEY INC. DESIGN COMMUNICATIONS 121 LOGAN AVENUE TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M4M 2M9 PHONE 416 504 2742 COVER PHOTOGRAPHY, RAINA+WILSON; STYLING, LEE SULLIVAN, PLUTINO GROUP; GROOMING, LAURA SZUCS, JUDY INC. COPYRIGHT 2015 HARRY ROSEN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS.

TAKE IT EASY

27 30 38 100 102 103 104

LETTER NOTEBOOK ASK HARRY CITIES SERVICES GUIDE THE WORLD OF… BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

AT HARRY ROSEN, WE HOLD YOUR PERSONAL INFORMATION IN STRICTEST CONFIDENCE, IN FULL ACCORDANCE WITH PROVINCIAL AND FEDERAL PRIVACY GUIDELINES. FOR FURTHER DETAILS, ACCESS WWW.HARRYROSEN.COM. TO OPT OUT OF FURTHER COMMUNICATIONS, E-MAIL US AT NOTICES@HARRYROSEN.COM OR CONTACT OUR PRIVACY OFFICER AT 416 935 9221 OR E-MAIL PRIVACY@HARRYROSEN.COM. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. COLOUR SEPARATIONS AND PRINTING PROVIDED BY TRANSCONTINENTAL AURORA.

VOLUME 19, ISSUE 1 CANADIAN PUBLICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT 40051686 CANADIAN POSTMASTER SEND ADDRESS CHANGE NOTICES AND UNDELIVERABLE COPIES TO: HARRY ROSEN INC. 77 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1600 TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M5S 1M2 FOR A CHANGE IN ADDRESS, PLEASE WRITE OR E-MAIL US AT:

HARRY ROSEN INC. 77 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1600 TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M5S 1M2 E-MAIL HARRY@HARRYROSEN.COM HARRY MAGAZINE IS PRINTED ON PAPER FROM WELLMANAGED FORESTS, CONTAINS 10 PERCENT POST-CONSUMER CONTENT AND IS CHLORINEAND ACID-FREE. OUR POLYBAGS USE 25 PERCENT RECYCLED PLASTIC.

Harry’s Letter

I’D LIKE TO START THIS LETTER BY SAYING THANK YOU. Our company had a record year in 2014 and it was all thanks to the support we received from you, our customers. We made a commitment to focus on our strengths – the excellence of our service, training our people, curating the best of global menswear with a Canadian perspective and investing in our stores. We hoped it was the right path to take and we have been thrilled to see you confirm the decision. Our online business has also grown very significantly and this season we’re offering a selection of tailored clothing online. It’s a convenient service for customers who live a long way from our stores – and also a great way to browse the new collections before you come in to shop. However, we still believe that it’s better to buy tailored clothing in person – or at least to pick up your purchase in the store so we can check the fit and carry out any alterations that may be needed. That’s where the expertise of our clothing advisors really comes into play. Thanks to their world-class training in understanding quality, proper fit and the precise needs of our customers, they can help you put together the ideal outfit for any and every occasion. And we assist the process by making sure they work in state-of-the-art retail environments. This year, for example, we’re building

two brand-new flagship stores, in downtown Montreal and Toronto’s Sherway Gardens, and also completely renovating our downtown Vancouver store. We hope you’ll enjoy them! Speaking of the impetus for change and evolution, few examples can be more inspiring than the resilience shown by New Orleans – one of the continent’s great, historic cities, still determinedly rebuilding after the tragedies of Hurricane Katrina and the oil spill in the Gulf. It seemed the perfect place to shoot our new spring and summer sportswear collections (okay, the warm weather was also a factor) but we wanted to catch a glimpse of the city that lies behind the familiar party glamour of Mardi Gras and the French Quarter. We open the section with some musings on the strong historical ties between Canada and New Orleans – and close it with an essay from award-winning Canadian novelist Joseph Boyden, who has lived in the Crescent City for 20 years as a student, a teacher and a writer. We’re honoured to have his voice in our magazine.

Larry Rosen and Roberta Armani at the 2014 Toronto International Film Festival. Read more about our relationship with Giorgio Armani on page 56.

Larry Rosen with Henry Burris, quarterback of the Ottawa REDBLACKS, at the opening of our new flagship store in Ottawa’s Rideau Centre.

Larry Rosen, chairman and ceo harry rosen inc.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 27

LONDON | With operations in 10 countries and the ability to list stocks on 10 different exchanges, Canaccord Genuity has the global presence your international ambitions require, and the international perspective to maximize your business at home. | canaccordgenuity.com

To us there are no foreign markets.

INVESTMENT BANKING

RESEARCH

SALES & TRADING

FIXED INCOME

Canaccord Genuity Corp. Member IIROC/Canadian Investor Protection Fund. Offices in other countries are offices of other companies in the Canaccord Genuity group of companies. See canaccordgenuitygroup.com/en/companies for more information.

Notebook

Sharing information; tracking the new and noteworthy

01 Paul & Shark Activewear ITALIAN DESIGN FIRM PAUL & SHARK IS PROUD OF ITS YACHTING ROOTS – HENCE THE STUNNING SILKSCREEN PRINT OF A RACING YACHT AT SEA INSIDE THE BACK OF THIS WINDBREAKER. That’s one secret – others include the hood hidden in the collar and the discreet cord to cinch the waist. Made of exceptionally lightweight nylon in electric royal blue, it features Paul & Shark’s famous red, white and blue trim. We’d also like to introduce the company’s new Active Collection, featuring a superlight, moisture-wicking technical fabric that will stand up to the briskest seaside breeze. The collection includes a jersey hoodie, a zippered polo, shorts and a windbreaker all in a deep navy with orange highlights and reflective silver zippers.

30 HARRY

Jersey Hoodie

Zippered Polo

Windbreaker

Shorts

(ON FIGURE) PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS; STYLING, JOAN BALDA. (OFF FIGURE) PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

PAUL & SHARK (below) hoodie, $325, polo, $235, shorts, $350, and windbreaker, $975; (right) jacket, $625, and polo, $150.

The postings continue online at www.harryrosen.com

02 Fashion Pants IT’S A VERY RARE OCCURRENCE WHEN THE WORLD OF MENSWEAR GIVES BIRTH TO A WHOLE NEW

So let us welcome the arrival of “fashion pants.” Simultaneously sophisticated and comfortable, all these slim-cut trousers can be dressed up with a sports jacket and dress shoes or dressed down with more casual sportswear and a pair of fashion sneakers. After that, however, the species starts to diversify according to label. For example, Paige offers a hybrid of jogging pants and five-pocket chinos with elastic cuffs and soft jersey on the inside for extra comfort. Exclusive to Harry Rosen, they’re available in sand, black or navy. J Brand forgoes elastic but its slim-cut cargo pants are also exclusive to Harry Rosen. Vince presents dressier fashion pants with elastic and zippers at the ankles – all the better for showing off your newest, coolest footwear. Washed and distressed “jogg jeans” from Diesel Black Gold are a cross between sweatpants and jeans, made in a new fabric that looks like denim but has Lycra in the weave to give extraordinary stretch and comfort. The waist features both an elastic drawstring and belt loops for extra security.

PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS; STYLING, JOAN BALDA

SPECIES OF APPAREL.

(clockwise from top left) PAIGE, $258; J BRAND, $298; VINCE, $320; DIESEL BLACK GOLD, $385.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 31

Notebook

03 TUMI is the New 40 TO HONOUR THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY OF ITS FOUNDING, TUMI INTRODUCES A NEW CAPSULE COLLECTION OF BAGS CALLED 1975, ALL DESIGNED AND CRAFTED IN THE U.S. Some are pure leather, others a combination of leather and TUMI’s own ballistic nylon, but all of them live up to the four principles of the brand’s DNA – design excellence, unparalleled quality, technical innovation and functional superiority. Find the square duffel, slim briefcase and international carry-on exclusively at Harry Rosen.

TUMI briefcase, $1,015, square duffel, $1,670, and satchel, $560.

LAST YEAR’S INAUGURAL G2CC GOLF TOURNAMENT, SPONSORED BY HARRY ROSEN, WAS A TRIUMPHANT SUCCESS. Over

$800,000 was raised for cancer research at the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre in Toronto, one of the top five cancer research centres in the world. The 2015 event will take place on Monday, June 15, at two Toronto-area golf courses – Coppinwood Golf Club and Granite Golf Club. Foursomes compete for the coveted Rosen Cup, and other prizes include a $1-million hole-in-one prize and contest hole prizes such as made-to-measure suits, sportswear and golf equipment. For more information, please contact Nick Taylor, chief golf officer and director of new revenue for The Princess Margaret Cancer Foundation, at nicktaylor@thepmcf.ca or 416 946 4406.

32 HARRY

(TOP) PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

04 Golf to Conquer Cancer

05 New Labels

06 Mr. Smith Comes to Harry Rosen

THIS SEASON, HARRY ROSEN

HARRY ROSEN HAS CARRIED THE COLOURFUL, WHIMSICAL STRIPED AND POLKA-

WELCOMES FIVE MORE RENOWNED

DOTTED SOCKS FROM BRITISH DESIGNER PAUL SMITH FOR A WHILE; NOW, WE ADD

LABELS TO OUR STELLAR INVENTORY.

TO THE COLLECTION WITH ALL SORTS OF STYLISH ACCESSORIES.

Classic or novelty cufflinks feature pen nibs, aces or dice, pin-ups or tiny striped Mini Coopers. A key ring in brass, zinc and steel flaunts the iconic Paul Smith multi-stripe, which also adorns the rim of a wood-handled umbrella and some of the Italian-made, fine-leather wallets and cardholders that fans of the brand demand.

(clockwise from top left) PAUL SMITH socks, $30-$35, umbrella, $125, cardholder, $175, tall cardholder, $195, wallet, $225, key ring, $145, and cufflinks, $150-$175.

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

Diesel Black Gold is the cool, contemporary sportswear line from Italian denim and apparel maestro Diesel. With its clean, understated look, the Jil Sander collection offers standout soft jackets, leathers, outerwear and sportswear. Costume National brings minimalist, innovative clothing with a rock ’n’ roll edge that has appealed to such customers as Mick Jagger and David Bowie. Altea specializes in luxuriously soft, elegant jackets, knits, shirts and pants made with top-quality fabrics and a vibrant sense of colour. Moncler Gamme Bleu presents designer Thom Browne’s slightly slimmer, more avant-garde take on Moncler’s classic collections. This season, his inspiration comes from the world of boxing. Please see our style guide on page 103 to find out which stores will carry them.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 33

Notebook

07 Linen is Cool Again LINEN MAY BE ONE OF THE OLDEST FABRICS KNOWN TO MAN. It’s also one of the most comfortable – relaxed and totally breathable in warm weather. This year sees linen making a dazzling comeback with some great shorts from John Varvatos Star USA in masculine earth tones; they’re also a little shorter than in recent years. Then there are the season’s linen shirts from a host of companies including Vilebrequin, Benson, Robert Talbott and Polo Ralph Lauren, some shortsleeved, others long, some in blues, mauves and pinks, others vibrant with bold and merry patterns from Maori prints to broad checks to geometric neats.

Long-Sleeved Linen

Linen Shorts

Short-Sleeved Linen

34 HARRY

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

(right) POLO RALPH LAUREN shirts, $125; VILEBREQUIN shirts, $245; JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA shorts, $138. (below, left to right) BENSON, $135, $125 and $98; ROBERT TALBOTT, $198.

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

08 Make a Splash! Bright, carefree pattern is the eye-catching message from Benson and Vilebrequin, which only makes Polo Ralph Lauren’s saturated solids stand out all the more. Paul & Shark puts you into a school of cartoon sharks printed onto very light, quick-dry fabric.

DON’T HIDE AWAY AND HOPE TO GO UNNOTICED ON THE BEACH OR BY THE POOL THIS SUMMER.

(clockwise from top) VILEBREQUIN, $255; POLO RALPH LAUREN, $90; MONCLER, $340; POLO RALPH LAUREN, $125; PAUL & SHARK, $250; VILEBREQUIN, $235; BENSON, $98.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 35

TIMELESS STYLE. FLAWLESS CRAFTSMANSHIP.

S T R A N D CO L L E CT IO N

Available at all Harry Rosen stores.

Made with pride in Canada. Coppley.com

Ask Harry

Sometimes even the most sartorially confident man needs an expert opinion

“What if this spring and summer are as wet as last year? How can I handle all that rain?” START WITH A SPRING RAINCOAT.

It’s an investment every man needs ds to make. These days, the range of choices is more varied and interesting sting than ever before but there are several eral factors to consider when making your decision, starting with length. Many any men like the traditional length thatt comes to just above the knee, as it offers good protection against the e rain; others prefer a shorter, three-quarterrterlength coat – it’s still long enough to cover your jacket but more comfortrtable for driving. Then there are the e many fabrics, colours and styles s to rench take into account, from a classic trench by rainwear specialists Burberry or Aquascutum to the more casual and avant-garde coats from Z Zegna and other fashion-forward houses. The great advantage of a good,, lightweight raincoat is its versatility, ity, which extends far beyond mere rain ain protection. It’s an ideal piece of outeruterwear over a suit or sports jacket but also works perfectly over a T-shirtt and jeans for a more casual look. Once you have your raincoat, you’ll need to protect your extremities.. A pair of Swims overshoes will save e your fine leather footwear from destruction ction – it’s fun to step out with a little colour olour on your feet! And a good-quality, retractable umbrella is essential. Keep it in your car or travelling bag and forget about it until the heavens suddenly open.

38 HARRY

01 Z ZEGNA

02 G-LAB

Z Zegna and Zegna Sport have merged, resulting in thoroughly contemporary, eminently practical outerwear like this three-in-one jacket (the inner vest can be worn on its own). Taped seams make it waterproof, not just waterresistant. $950.

With its roots in the world of German motorcycling, G-Lab oﬀers a durable but amazingly lightweight shell. Internal taped seams mean it’s fully waterproof and windproof, but the triple-layered G-Lab fabric is also fully breathable for exceptional comfort. $650.

SWIMS GALOSHES Protect your leather shoes with Swims rubber/nylon overshoes – insulated, waterproof, flexible, gripping.

(ON FIGURE) PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS; STYLING, NG, JOAN BALDA. (OFF FIGURE) PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO. (INSET) © PETER TURNLEY/CORBIS

T Classic The Trench Coat T

03 BURBERRY

The Kensington MID is a doublebreasted, showerproof trench coat made from lightweight cotton twill. Boasting a trim, modern silhouette and all the heritage details, it also has Burberry’s signature checked lining and under-collar. $1,095.

04 AQUASCUTUM

A garment originally created for warfare, the trench coat has surw vvived to become an immortal symbol of masculinity. Its story begins over o 150 years ago when two British firms, 1 Burberry and Aquascutum, both B developed waterproof, wind-resistant d gabardine fabric, which they used to g make coats for military officers and m other men of action. The garments o rreally came into their own during the First World War, when the British War F Office ordered 500,000 tan-coloured, O double-breasted “trench coats” for d ssoldiers on their way to Flanders. The details we know so well today were already in place – epaulettes to w ssecure equipment worn on straps over the shoulder such as binoculars; o a gun flap to add a layer of protection on the right shoulder; a heavily o sstitched belt with D rings for hanging grenades and other pieces of equipg ment; and sleeve straps, a back yoke m and storm pockets for extra proteca ttion against rain. Once again the coat proved invaluable and when the war was over, men continued to wear their trench coats in civilian life. Burberry is still going strong and so is Aquascutum, represented here by a contemporary trench coat that still retains its classic details. $1,695.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 39

Ask Harry

“Where is the middle ground between a suit and ‘too-casual-for-work’?” THE GAP BETWEEN A FORMAL BUSINESS SUIT AND CASUAL WEEKEND SPORTSWEAR IS A WIDE ONE, so we’re fortunate to have a bridge that spans the great divide: the sports jacket. One end of this bridge is firmly rooted in tailored-clothing territory, giving us conventionally structured sports jackets and blazers that look great with dress pants, a shirt and tie or an open-collared shirt. The other end has grown out of sportswear and it’s there we find the most casual, unlined sweater-jackets, just the thing to throw on over a pair of jeans. In between lies a huge array of different styles, and we recommend that any man building up a sports jacket wardrobe should take advantage of such variety.

But however smart or casual it might be, every sports jacket illustrates a very simple truth: a man looks better in a jacket than he does without one. It lends him authority, flatters his physique and makes his outfit seem complete. It’s the perfect garment for workdays when you don’t want to wear a suit, lending a relatively casual look but showing you still mean business.

The Finishing Touch Whether or not you wear a tie with your sports jacket, a pocket square is a delightful extra flourish – a little splash of colour and individuality that adds a certain joie de vivre to your look.

40 HARRY

TAILORED CLASSIC The elegant archetype of the tailored sports jacket. Despite the classic construction, it’s exceptionally lightweight for maximum comfort. A bold check in pale blue, grey, beige and chocolate allows great versatility when matching to dress pants and accessories. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, $2,195.

PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS; STYLING, JOAN BALDA

Please visit www.harryrosen.com and go to Harry’s Notebook to read Notes on Men’s Style, for information on new arrivals, designers, style recommendations, Ask Harry how-to videos and much more. Every Harry Rosen customer is automatically a member of the Sartoria Recognition Program; learn about the program and tier benefits at www.harryrosen.com.

MODERN HYBRID

SOFT BLAZER

UNSTRUCTURED

A modern hybrid jacket in a sky blue herringbone fabric. Wear it as a coat on a mild spring day or unzip the removable gilet to turn it into a more conventional sports jacket. Eye-catching details include horn buttons and a zippered ticket pocket. CORNELIANI, $1,798.

Every man needs a navy blazer and here’s a thoroughly contemporary version, completely unlined and with a trim, modern silhouette. Wear it over even the most casual sportswear and it adds a sophisticated masculinity to the outfit. BURBERRY BRIT, $875.

Unlined and totally unstructured, with informal patch pockets, this one comes from the casual end of the sports jacket spectrum. Throw it on over a shirt and a knit – it’s perfect for layering and as soft and comfortable as a sweater. ALTEA, $698.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 41

WWW.KITON.IT

7forallmankind.com

For Milos Raonic, life as a tennis superstar includes looking the part off the court as well as on it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which is why he demands faultless performance from his J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn clothing.

48 HARRY

GAME, SUIT AND MATCH STYLING, LEE SULLIVAN, PLUTINO GROUP; GROOMING, LAURA SZUCS, JUDY INC

MILOS RAONIC wears Samuelsohn – two Canadian champions take on the world

BY JOSH MACTATE

BY RAINA+WILSON

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 49

“ I want my suits to look elegant rather than corporate,” says Raonic. “And yes, it’s important to me that Samuelsohn is a Canadian company. They tell me they’re proud of the way I represent Canada; well, I’m proud of the way they represent Canada.”

Samuelsohn offers a choice of over 500 fabrics for its made-to-measure service and two-thirds of them are new every season – ample opportunity for self-expression.

50 HARRY

AME SITS LIGHTLY ON MILOS RAONIC’S SHOULDERS. Only 23 years old, he’s the number one male tennis player in the Western Hemisphere and eighth best in the world, but he slips into the photographer’s studio with a shy smile and an apology for being late. He’s here to model his own madeto-measure suits from J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn, but right now he’s wearing a smart pair of jeans, a plain black T-shirt, a windbreaker and shoes from his sponsor, New Balance. At six-foot-five, he dominates the room the way his service dominates a tennis court, but he’s slimmer than he looks on television. That’s where I saw him last November – on a TV screen in Calgary International Airport, where the entire lounge watched him defeat Roger Federer in Paris, all of us rooting for the intense young Canadian underdog. Now someone mentions the victory and Raonic answers with a wry smile: “Yeah, well, it was about time!”

There’s nothing badass about the remark. Raonic is a literal-minded man – more Mr. Spock than Captain Kirk – and his sport is as much psychological as physical, demanding endless self-analysis. “I didn’t mean that to sound cool,” he explains later. “It’s just I’ve been wanting to beat Roger for so long! I had an opportunity in the Wimbledon semifinals, but he won and that hurt. I hate losing a lot more than I enjoy winning. So beating him in Paris was not nearly so emotionally powerful for me as losing at Wimbledon. I have my checklist – Roger, Novak, Rafa… And I want to beat them now, when they’re at their best, not when they’re winding down. The thing I struggle with most is that I want things to happen right away.” By everyone else’s standards, Raonic’s rise has been meteoric, with the big breakthrough coming in 2011. After high school, he turned down a scholarship from the University of Virginia in order to focus on tennis but made a deal with his parents to take courses online unless he broke into the world’s top 100. He went from 156th to 28th in six weeks. “So I wrote my last exam and then paused,” he says. “But I will finish my education. It’s very important to me.” Raonic’s parents, Dusan and Vesna, are both engineers. They moved to Canada from Serbia when Milos was three and settled in Brampton, Ont. They have given their son total support in his career, and also, it’s tempting to suggest, the eminently practical focus he brings to bear on all aspects of his life. Mediocrity is anathema, sloppiness not part of his personality. “If I’m going to do something, I’m going to do it right,” he says. “Whether it’s babysitting my sister’s kid or choosing the clothes I wear. I want

Raonic appreciates the impeccable fit and personalized tailoring details of a made-to-measure suit – not to mention ace service from his clothing advisor, Adam Gallo, at Harry Rosen’s 82 Bloor Street West, Toronto, store.

something that fits properly, not something that looks like a distant aunt bought it for you and she doesn’t remember how tall you were the last time she saw you.” Samuelsohn has been part of Raonic’s wardrobe for years. “When I was just starting out, they were generous enough to donate a travelling blazer to me,” he says. “Since then the relationship has developed into something more. I’m demanding of my clothes. They have to travel well because I’ll be living out of a suitcase six weeks in a row and something will come up, last minute, and you suddenly have to pull yourself together. I still have a Samuelsohn blazer in a Performance fabric that doesn’t wrinkle. It goes with me everywhere because it can kick up an outfit pretty easily for unexpected events.” Samuelsohn is also his source for suits. Because of his height and physique, Raonic needs the company’s made-to-measure service, working with clothing advisor Adam Gallo at Harry Rosen’s Bloor Street West store in Toronto. “Milos knows what he’s talking about when it comes to his look,” confirms Gallo. “He enjoys the cause-and-effect of tailoring – the way every subtle detail of the fullcanvas construction in a Samuelsohn jacket has an actual impact on how he looks – and he has great taste in fabrics. He likes the slim, very contemporary fit of the Richard suit model, which is now also available ready-to-wear, incidentally.” “I want my suits to look elegant rather than corporate,” says Raonic. “And yes, it’s important to me that Samuelsohn is a Canadian company. They tell me they’re proud of the way I represent Canada; well, I’m proud of the way they represent Canada.” Montreal-based Samuelsohn may be a 90-year-

old company but, like Raonic, it had a breakthrough year in 2011, with the first collection from designer Arnold Silverstone. Acting on behind-the-scenes advice from Harry Rosen’s executive vice president, Jeff Farbstein, and CEO, Larry Rosen, Samuelsohn’s ambitious new owners had brought Silverstone on board to revolutionize design standards without jeopardizing the renowned quality of its tailored garments. It proved a match-winning decision. Since then, the company has doubled in size and recently purchased Hickey Freeman, its biggest U.S. competitor. Samuelsohn is now the largest luxury tailored clothing company in North America. And made to measure has been its fastestgrowing segment, says Silverstone. “With over 500 fabrics to choose from – and two-thirds of them changing each and every season – the service isn’t only for athletes, it’s for any man who wants to wear something unique.” SPRING/SUMMER 2015 51

Silverstone is himself a tennis player – he once duelled Andy Roddick in an exhibition match – but he has yet to meet Raonic on the court. It may not happen any time soon – both men are just too busy. Silverstone has his new collection to create; Raonic is out on the circuit or training in Monte Carlo, where a tiny rented apartment is home until the condo he bought three years ago in Toronto’s Yorkville area is finished. His few moments off tend to fill up with work for the foundation he created in 2011, while he was laid up for three months, recovering from a serious hip injury. “I had been looking 52 HARRY

for somewhere I could make a direct impact and my parents and I were inspired by what we saw at the Holland Bloorview Kids Rehabilitation Hospital, here in Toronto. Last year, we opened an agility clinic there for kids with prosthetic limbs, to give them a physical environment where they can be more active but also to meet their social and cultural needs. The idea is to teach them what my parents taught me – that few things are out of their reach.” The foundation will grow while Raonic pursues his career. When he eventually retires, it will be something he can turn to, as well as finishing his education. “I know that as soon as I’m through with tennis, everything goes to zero and I need to create a whole new life for myself. I want to involve myself in something to do with finance.” Would he also need to be number one in that world? Raonic considers the question. “Well, I’d be starting 10 years behind everyone else,” he muses, “and becoming number one means stepping up against Bill Gates or someone like that, which might be a little unrealistic.” His eyes glitter. “That said, there wouldn’t be any lack of motivation. Honestly, if I felt I could do it, I would bust my ass off every single day.” h

Samuelsohn’s Performance fabrics offer extra resiliency, wrinkle less than normal fabrics and bounce back quickly – perfect for a man who spends a lot of time travelling.

INQUATTRO SHOWROOM 416-925-4404

THE DENIM

www.alberto-pants.com

The Armani Touch

It turns out the innate and leisurely elegance of an Armani suit is also a family trait BY OLIVIA STREN

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK

Runway images offer a dashing representation of the ideas behind Giorgio Armaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next collection.

56 HARRY

One of the style edicts Roberta Armani gleaned from her uncle: “When you enter a room, it’s important to be noticed.”

t’s a lesson she has clearly mastered. I meet the 44-yearold Armani brand ambassador in the lobby of Toronto’s Ritz-Carlton hotel during the height of the Toronto International Film Festival. The place is an amphetamenic circus; there are tourists adhered to their iPhones hoping to catch a glimpse of Tobey Maguire (he wanders by, dressed in a henley shirt and jeans, looking bored), television reporters busy reapplying lipstick, and staff manning a gelato cart slinging miniature scoops of gelato the size of an Oscar’s head. But Armani wafts through the chaos – her arm looped through some handsome colleague’s – as though promenading Milan’s Via Montenapoleone on a leisurely Saturday. Armani has the kind of easeful elegance that has been the company’s trademark since its 1975 beginnings. At five-foot-eleven, she is statuesque, her deportment refined but casual, and she emanates the kind of magisterial grace you associate with royalty. Which is essentially what she is. (Armani’s global HQ on Milan’s Via Borgonuovo is a former ducal palace, and Roberta has been known to refer to it as “the Kingdom.”) But it wasn’t until she was 16 years old, and had moved to New York City from Milan to work as a sales clerk at Manhattan’s Madison Avenue Armani store, that the weight of her heritage dawned on her. “I still remember flying to New York with Pan Am. I didn’t speak a word of English. When people said, ‘Hi, how are you doing?’ I would say, ‘No, my name is not Doing!’ I worked in sales, and sales went really down!” she says, laughing. “But that first time in New York was the first time I understood the incredible magnitude of what my uncle had created.” Armani’s English, clearly, has much improved since then, though she still makes the occasional – and perfectly charming – mistake. (In a piece for the British press, she described herself and her style as “hot” – by which she meant “warm.”) But her linguistic slips serve to accessorize her otherwise flawless presentation with just enough whimsy and fallibility. And it was her “hotness” and facility with language and with people that inspired her uncle to cast her as brand ambassador and overall charm offensive. If Giorgio

remains at the artistic helm, the charismatic, ever-and-profoundlybronzed paterfamilias, he is also shy (“He is in the spotlight, but at the end of the day, he is an artist,” Roberta explains summarily). He now leaves much of the double kissing, fashionshow appearances and carpet traipsing to his niece. Her job is, among other things, to reach out to celebrities and get Armani in their closets – and on the red carpets. She is the one who will comfort and advise Anne Hathaway during Oscar gown fittings in London, who will personally escort David Beckham on a shopping trip at Emporio Armani and who will host a dinner in Beverly Hills for Sean Penn, handing over a $500,000 donation to Penn’s Haitian relief foundation on behalf of Mr. Armani. About her role as Hollywood liaison, she says: “I like to call [celebrity clients] friends, because it’s all about these incredible friendships.” I ask her what the challenges of this kind of friendship might be and she bristles ever so slightly, assuming PR mode: “I don’t see any challenges, I only see rewards. They are special people and they share their lives and their knowledge.” One celebrity in particular has long graduated beyond friendship status. “Richard Gere has been a part of the family for a long time,” she says. Indeed, Armani outfitted Gere’s slick Los Angeles call boy in American Gigolo in 1980. It was a moment that marked a turning point in Giorgio Armani’s career – and in the history of European and American menswear. It also helped land Armani on the cover of Time magazine, an achievement he still considers one of the proudest moments in his career: “I am proud of my beginnings, with the enthusiasm of wanting to create something new and the conviction of having something to say,” he says today. “And I’m obviously proud of the cover of Time in 1982.” What he succeeded in creating was a look capturing a quintessentially Italian combination of refinement and casualness. Elegance, he seemed to be proposing, could also be comfortable. He introduced the unstructured jacket, discarded shoulder pads, moved buttons and dropped lapels. As Time writer Jay Cocks observed of Armani’s tailoring: “The result, an epiphany of choreographed SPRING/SUMMER 2015 57

rumple, was like cutting the buckles and taking the stuffing from a straitjacket….Putting on Armani is, indeed, suiting up for Easy Street…” The then-avant-gardist aesthetic emanated both power and leisure: Armani’s jackets with their sloping shoulders and creaseable fabrics looked like the kind destined to be wrinkled in warm Santa Ana winds, while driving (like Gere’s Julian) a convertible Mercedes-Benz coupe down a sunny California freeway. It was also after the release of American Gigolo that Harry Rosen began carrying the Armani collection (the first retailer to offer the brand in Canada). “Mr. Armani revolutionized the way men thought about their clothes,” says Jeff Farbstein, Harry Rosen’s executive vice president and general merchandise manager. “It was always about fabric, quality, fit, silhouette. You could always tell when somebody was wearing an Armani garment. At the time, suits were very heavy and Armani suits had a certain lightness and fluidity. They had a softness to them and were more sweater-y.”

“Sometimes my uncle and I are out and if somebody around him is wearing a violent colour, he looks like he’s in pain. It’s almost like he has a sixth sense. Or that his aesthetic is just more developed than other people’s.” Armani was also path-blazing in terms of technology, fabrics and colour. “Armani was the first into stretch, and the first into the active component of outerwear. It was about fashion, yes, but also functionality,” Farbstein continues. “He would also use English patterns but would reinterpret them colour-wise, using Italian mills that nobody else knew about and nobody else used. He had that kind of control.” If Armani, from the beginning, had a great sensitivity to detail and the subtleties of colour, it’s an extreme 58 HARRY

sensitivity he maintains – and one that (like any great gift) can prove both asset and vulnerability. “My uncle’s senses are almost more acute than other people’s,” says Roberta. “Sometimes we’re out and if somebody around him is wearing a violent colour, he looks like he’s in pain. It’s almost like he has a sixth sense. Or that his aesthetic is just more developed than other people’s.” Armani also maintains a fidelity to his design roots. “For this season, I thought it was important to reaffirm the core values of my style – naturalness, comfort and softness – revised thanks to sophisticated textiles and innovative materials,” he explains. “It is no coincidence that my newest collection is entitled ‘Echoes of Armani.’ I reread my codes and updated them to create a timeless, modern wardrobe.” Featured in this collection are jackets, soft and luxurious and comfortable, in lightweight wools and silks, in textured shades of ivory and a rich, inky shade of blue that you might imagine Armani sporting whilst aboard his 150-foot yacht, somewhere in the Mediterranean, near his villa on the island of Pantelleria in the Strait of Sicily. “Armani’s DNA has remained exactly the same,” says Farbstein about Armani’s loyalty to his aesthetic beginnings, “but he’s been able to bring himself forward. Sometimes designers will go for volume but what got them there in the first place is left behind. He’s never done that. Has he ever made a mistake? Of course. But he’s been very flexible and also very faithful to his roots.” Loyalty also seems to define his firm’s (30-plus-year) relationship with Harry Rosen, both family-run companies. “It’s a working relationship characterized by continuity, mutual support and mutual respect,” says Armani. “Harry Rosen has always believed in my work, promoting it in his stores.” And Armani has also long felt an affinity for the Canadian customer: “The Canadian market is the closest to the European market in terms of sensitivities and preferences, while it retains the enthusiasm of the American one. The European style is more settled, and also more rigid. The American market on the other hand is free from constraints and is therefore

Roberta Armani with producer and filmmaker Edward Zwick, seen at the Toronto International Film Festival for the world premiere of Films of City Frames, a series of short films inspired by Armani’s new Frames of Life eyewear collection.

extremely receptive to new things. The Canadian market is situated in the middle of these two markets, and it is this position that makes it exciting.” This year, Giorgio Armani will be celebrating his company’s 40th anniversary. Roberta muses on her uncle’s professional longevity: “It’s all about energy and dedication and my uncle is 24-hours-a-day dedicated to the company. He has 10,000 employees all over the world. He could easily take off at night for, I don’t know, the Maldives, but he will always be there for his business.” Perhaps at least partly out of familial loyalty (“We’re a very loyal family. It’s an Italian thing. You can trust your family,” she has said), Roberta exhibits the same dedication. She’s in town for only a few days before heading back to Milan, where she lives next to the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie (home of Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper”). After we say our arrivedercis, I spot her strolling through the Ritz lobby in long but leisurely strides, her bearing both grand and casual, as regal yet unstarched as an Armani garment – making as much of an impression leaving the hotel as she did when she arrived. h

BLUES FESTIVAL . On-figure photography by CHRIS NICHOLLS, styling by JOAN BALDA, grooming by LAURA SZUCS, Judy Inc. Off-figure photography by BRIAN SANO, styling by DEE CONNOLLY.

MEN LIKE WEARING BLUE.

They look good in blue – and they know it. So do the world’s top menswear designers. Suddenly this season, blue is everywhere. Not just navy but every conceivable shade and tone from aqua to zaffre, from baby to midnight. For spring and summer, things are hot at the cool end of the spectrum. 62 HARRY

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

(opposite page) Consider this the state of the art for a dressy, purewool sports jacket – lined but lightweight, breathable and supremely comfortable, and sporting such traditional sartorial details as surgeon’s cuﬀs. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

jacket, $1,995, shirt, $395, and tie, $265.

CANALI

A fuchsia tie adds pop to a classic navy pinstriped suit – one of the most versatile suits a man can own. CANALI suit, $2,098,

shirt, $295, and tie, $185.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 63

Z ZEGNA

You almost have to look twice to notice the discreet black windowpane check on this navy suit. Like the open stitching along the lapel, it adds visual richness. The modern cut is notably trim. Z ZEGNA suit, $1,195, and shirt, $265.

64 HARRY

CANALI

Unlined and made in a cool linen blend, Canali’s Kei jacket certainly catches the eye with its bold navy and royal blue check. Those elegant trousers are a new hybrid of the casual and the dressy – trim-cut, ﬁve-pocket pants in pure wool. CANALI jacket, $1,898,

shirt, $325, pants, $450, and dress shoes, $695.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 65

BOSS

The lesson today: how a sports jacket can pull a very casual look together. The mid-blue linenblend fabric has a pleasing roughness to the touch and though the jacket is lined it seems to weigh hardly anything. BOSS jacket, $750, shirt, $165, and pants, $185; PRADA suede shoes, $760.

66 HARRY

J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN

The jacket is half-lined and features patch pockets and the unmistakable texture of a linen blend, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the colour and pattern that attract attention. The outsized check in light and mid-blues with a rust windowpane calls for careful coordination. J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN

jacket, $1,098; BOSS shirt, $205; ETON tie, $135; HILTL pants, $258.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 67

J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN

It’s the perfect summer suit – classically tailored and lined but still surprisingly lightweight, and made in a very versatile grey-blue fabric with a subtle pinstripe. Dress it down with a crisp white shirt and no tie. J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN

suit, $1,398; ETON shirt, $275, and tie, $135.

68 HARRY

ARMANI COLLEZIONI

The fabric of this sophisticated, pale turquoise jacket from Armaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sartorial Deco collection is as pleasing to the hand as it is to the eye. That suggestion of a sleek shimmer translates as an exceptionally soft, comfortable feel. ARMANI COLLEZIONI

jacket, $1,975, shirt, $375, tie, $175, and pants, $445.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 69

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA The timeless, iconic navy suit. Need we say more?

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA suit, $2,695,

shirt, $395, tie, $205, and dress shoes, $825.

70 HARRY

How to build your spring and summer dress shoe wardrobe? The key is to collect a range of dress shoes in many diďŹ&#x20AC;erent styles, colours and textures. Lace-ups oďŹ&#x20AC;er a variety of choices with cap, apron, wingtip or clean-toe construction; a single monk strap (refreshing after several seasons of double monk-strap dominance) and a smart slip-on dress shoe multiply the possibilities. Colours range from a spectrum of rich browns to matte or semi-sheen blacks; textures embrace smooth, full grain and integrated woven leather details. Exercise your options! (top to bottom) BOSS, $345; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, $655; PRADA, $595; TO BOOT NEW YORK, $495; PAUL SMITH, $435.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 71

Yes, checks are still with us, where shirts are concerned. The variety still amazes – gingham, Tattersall, glen check, windowpane… All in bright, fresh spring colours. Ties can be coordinated most creatively, with stripes and neats oﬀering a lively contrast, while a solid knit tie presents a more subtle option. (top to bottom) BOSS shirt, $165; and ETON tie, $135; J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN

shirt, $185; and ETON tie, $135; ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA shirt,

$375; and CANALI tie, $170; ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA shirt,

$395; and tie, $205; BOSS shirt, $185; and ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

knit tie, $265.

72 HARRY

BOSS

The subtle mini-check of this modern, traditionally tailored suit is the perfect background to a vast range of shirts and ties, continually reinventing and refreshing the look. BOSS suit, $1,098, shirt, $205, and tie, $125.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 73

Our model, John Pearson (centre, at back) found The Slick Skillet Serenaders busking preâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Second World War ragtime on Royal Street.

74 HARRY

Photography by CHRIS NICHOLLS; styling by LEE SULLIVAN, Plutino Group; grooming by LAURA SZUCS, Judy Inc

LORO PIANA

EYEWEAR, SIRE’S EYEWEAR

An extraordinary reversible jacket – one side silk, the other butter-soft, slate blue lamb’s leather, both weatherproofed. LORO PIANA reversible leather jacket, $6,695, and pants, $525.

VERY MAN SEEKS TO DEVELOP HIS OWN PERSONAL STYLE. Where better to search than in New Orleans, where freedom of expression is the only social rule that is ever seriously enforced? It has always been a place set apart from the rest of the continent, a city where men have found they can dress and behave with more liberty than North America usually aﬀords. The tropical heat, exotic colour and multicultural history seemed to us to provide a rich and textured backdrop for our latest sportswear collections – linens and soft jackets, lightweight leathers, bold prints and summertime blues. New Orleans’s Canadian connection goes back to the city’s roots. Louisiana was founded by a Canadian – the Sieur de la Salle – in 1682. In 1718, another Montrealer, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville, founded the city itself, and his

party of settlers was followed by francophone Acadians in the 1760s, expelled from the Maritimes by the British. The name “Acadians” relaxed into “Cajuns,” and their descendants continue to make a signiﬁcant contribution to the culture of the Big Easy. New Orleans welcomes modern Canadian visitors with an informal grace. We go there for the music, architecture and history, the cuisine and the cocktails, the continuous street parties of the French Quarter, for Mardi Gras, the Mississippi and the bayou… Perhaps we also visit the Katrina National Memorial Museum to remember the hurricane and its victims; maybe we explore other, less famous quarters. In these pages, renowned Canadian novelist Joseph Boyden (Three Day Road, Through Black Spruce, The Orenda), a long-time New Orleans resident, oﬀers his own impression of this complex, historic but very contemporary city.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 75

CIRCOLO and ALTEA This is the year of the soft, unstructured jacket. Left, Circolo offers a two-button version in a washed, stone-coloured abstract microcheck. Right, Altea’s casual, pure cotton-jersey blazer shows off the shirt’s intricate floral print. (left) CIRCOLO jacket, $650; VELVET T-shirt, $140; REHASH pants, $285. (right) ALTEA jacket, $850; ETON shirt, $285. Supper clubs, pop-up restaurants and private dining events happen all over New Orleans. Our favourite is the Mosquito Supper Club, created by Effie Michot and Chef Melissa M. Martin, a delicious window into family-style Cajun cuisine and culture. What’s cooking? Could be shrimp boulettes, crawfish bisque and stuffed crabs, then pop rouge ice cream and blackberry dumplings. www.mosquitosupperclub.com. 76

HARRY

MAURIZIO BALDASSARI So smart – a reversible bomber in lightweight brown leather and navy nylon with ribbed cuﬀs and hem. Wear the leather side out and pockets are side-entry; the nylon side has patch pockets. MAURIZIO BALDASSARI reversible

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK

leather bomber, $1,698, shirt, $275, and pants, $250; TOD’S suede slip-on shoes, $490. In the mid-1920s, William Faulkner lived in New Orleans at 624 Pirates Alley, writing his first novel, Soldier’s Pay, and throwing Bohemian parties. Today’s owner, Joe DeSalvo, has turned the first floor into Faulkner House Books, one of North America’s most cherished independent bookstores.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 77

LBM 1911 FOR HARRY ROSEN Unstructured and unlined, this versatile summer jacket is made in a soft, breathable linen-cotton blend. The pale blue and whitewindowpane fabric looks great with jeans or dressed up with a white shirt and knit tie. LBM 1911 FOR HARRY ROSEN

jacket, $798; SUNSON shirt, $298; BOSS pants, $185.

78 HARRY HARRY

KITON This soft navy blazer’s discreet micro-check pattern can anchor a vast range of diﬀerent looks. The fabric is a blend of cotton, silk and cashmere, as comfortable as a favourite sweater. Casual but supremely luxurious.

EYEWEAR, SIRE’S EYEWEAR

KITON jacket, $5,850, and shirt, $695.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 79

BENSON KITON Sweater meets coat meets luxury in Kiton’s suave, lightweight bomber. The sleeves are ribbed-knit cashmere, echoed on the waistband and sideentry pockets. The body is a woolcashmere blend with a light down ﬁlling – the perfect warmth for fall. KITON jacket, $7,995,

BENSON shirt, $135; PAIGE pants, $258; PRADA suede espadrilles, $530.

EYEWEAR, CUTLER & GROSS

and pants, $950.

Here’s a look that sums up three of this summer’s essential themes: a casual, exceptionally comfortable linen shirt in a bold ﬂoral print, worn over cotton fashion pants with ribbed cuﬀs and a dramatically tapered cut.

80 HARRY HARRY

KITON Sweater meets coat meets luxury in Kiton’s suave, lightweight bomber. The sleeves are ribbed-knit cashmere, echoed on the waistband and sideentry pockets. The body is a woolcashmere blend with a light down ﬁlling – the perfect warmth for fall. KITON jacket, $7,995, and pants, $950.

MONCLER Moncler oﬀers a nylon bomber with patch chest pockets and cotton on the cuﬀs and hem – the ideal casual jacket to throw on when the weather’s not too warm. MONCLER bomber, $1,015; FERRANTE knit polo, $260; 7 FOR ALL MANKIND jeans, $248;

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK

MONCLER suede espadrilles, $535.

South of the Mississippi, in a parking lot in Westwego, we came across Baby Girl’s Seafood, a beloved source of impeccably fresh, bargain-priced seafood from the Gulf. Hungry aﬁcionados travel for miles to buy shrimp, oysters, ﬁsh and, certainly, big fat delicious crabs.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 81

RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL Mixed media is the message – exceptionally soft, lightweight goat leather on the front, a ribbed knit for the back, sleeves and collar. RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL

jacket, $1,498, henley shirt, $198, and pants, $275. An old advertisement for Emerson’s Ginger Mint Julep, painted on a wall on Decatur Street, reminds us that New Orleans may be where cocktails began – in the apothecary shops of the French Quarter. Any bartender can illustrate the theory – or visit the Museum of the American Cocktail (www.cocktailmuseum.org) for a more academic approach. 82 HARRY

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI This lined suede blazer (also available in navy) has a most contemporary cut with a modern silhouette, cutaway front and angled pockets. The master of layering, Cucinelli pairs it with a quilted nylon vest and superlightweight grey polo. Slim-cut trousers have side tabs, not belt loops. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI jacket, $5,595, vest, $1,550, polo knit, $475, pants, $895, and pocket square, $185.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 83

Go barefoot in these exceptionally soft, ﬂexible, lightweight suede shoes, all designed for supreme summer comfort. Top to bottom, this TOD’S gomino driver boasts a unique leaf pattern, $575; a BOSS driver with a navy weave motif, $295; DOUCAL’S FOR HARRY ROSEN in deep cobalt suede may be the ultimate blue suede shoe, $680; another TOD’S gomino driver, with braided leather and metal ornament, $520; go to CHURCH’S for a prominent sole on a suave cerulean blue suede lace-up, $565. 84 HARRY

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK

THE COMFORT OF SUEDE

POLO RALPH LAUREN

EYEWEAR, CUTLER & GROSS

Look closely at the sports jacket – the indigo fabric has a subtle basket-weave pattern that creates a most original visual texture. White cotton chino shorts, a ﬂoral-printed poplin cotton shirt and that grey cashmere sweater loosely knotted over the shoulders complete a look that balances casual with preppy smart. jacket, $895, sweater, $398, shirt, $148, and shorts, $98.

POLO RALPH LAUREN

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 85

VERSACE The pants make the first impression – cotton printed with floral and Maori designs with an elasticized waist. The lined, double-zippered moto-jacket offers a masculine contrast, with its ribbed sleeves and sleek silhouette, all in butter-soft lamb leather. VERSACE jacket, $1,695, knit, $375,

pants, $695, and sneakers, $375.

86 HARRY

TOM FORD Tom Ford takes a very cool approach to the notion of leather jacket and jeans. The full-zip biker jacket in denim-blue lamb leather is made for the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own line of vintage-wash, straight-ďŹ t jeans. TOM FORD leather jacket, $5,995, collared shirt, $750, and pants, $950.

Jackson Square is the heart of historic New Orleans, a handsome park set between the St. Louis Cathedral, The Cabildo museum and the Mississippi. Street artists hang their works along the decorative wroughtiron fence.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 87

DSQUARED Get noticed! Black graffiti script on a fluorescent orange cotton sweatshirt will do the trick. Raglan sleeves and ribbed cuffs and hem add extra interest. Ankle-length cotton dress pants complete the look. DSQUARED sweatshirt, $585, shirt, $325, and pants, $465; PRADA sneakers, $590.

88 HARRY

FASHION SNEAKERS The fashion-forward man wears his statement sneakers whenever and wherever he wishes, conﬁdent that they – and he – will not pass unnoticed. Each brand has its own signature details. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI (top), for example, is known for double zippers and a degree of bling. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

(bottom) stitches the impression of his company logo, the guancino, right into the leather. ALEJANDRO INGELMO (centre) presents a black patent sneaker with an oxford closure, perfect for formal events and exclusive to Harry Rosen. (top to bottom) GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI,

$1,600; $765; ALEJANDRO INGELMO, $550; VERSACE, $575; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, $860. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI,

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 89

GIORGIO ARMANI This ink-blue mixed-media jacket is so light you can wear it like a shirt. The back is jersey; the front and sleeves are formed of diagonal patches of perforated leather. GIORGIO ARMANI

90 HARRY

jacket, $7,895.

JOHN VARVATOS

EYEWEAR, CUTLER & GROSS

(left) From John Varvatos Collection, a navy cotton cardigan with a ďŹ&#x201A;oat-stitch pattern and cotton placket looks great over seven-pocket pants in a linencotton blend. (right) From John Varvatos Star USA, this unstructured, washed, distressed blue-black linen jacket is casually distinctive over sand linen shorts. (left) JOHN VARVATOS COLLECTION cardigan, $658, T-shirt, $238, scarf, $378, pants, $398, and shoes, $248. (right) JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA jacket, $598, T-shirt, $138, scarf, $98, and shorts, $138.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 91

A “gentleman’s sneaker” is appropriate for so many casual occasions. These shoes are deliberately designed to be perfectly comfortable when worn without socks. (clockwise from top) TOD’S cobalt leather sneakers, $575; BRUNELLO CUCINELLI brown suede lace-ups, $985; TO BOOT NEW YORK’s exceptionally comfortable and convenient black slip-ons, $395; LANVIN white sneakers, $535; MONCLER black high-tops, $810; Z ZEGNA grey suede and leather sneakers, $450.

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK

KITON jacket, $7,995, and pants, $950.

GENTLEMAN’S SNEAKERS

92 HARRY HARRY

ETRO Natural ramie ﬁbre adds lustre and breathability in the cottonblend fabric used for this traditionally tailored jacket. Etro’s signature paisley is everywhere – under the collar and on the jacket’s blue lining, printed onto the pure linen shirt and as a ghostly pattern on the linen trousers. ETRO jacket, $1,498, shirt, $425,

and pants, $398; PRADA suede espadrilles, $530. Where to stay in New Orleans? We love Soniat House, a small luxury hotel in a sedate corner of the French Quarter, occupying three lovingly restored 1830s townhouses. Peace, quiet and pampering just three blocks from Jackson Square. 1133 Chartres St., 504 522 0570, www.soniathouse.com.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 93

94 HARRY

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK

B Y

J O S E P H

B O Y D E N

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK

A Bana na Republic’s Renaissance first crossed the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, the longest bridge in the world, and entered into the city of New Orleans in July 1988. I was travelling with friends from South Carolina, was a roadie for their punk rock band. We were on a tour of America, riding in a battered Chevy van and living a true hand-to-mouth existence. If shows were cancelled, which they were, we didn’t eat that day. If the van broke down, which it did, we didn’t eat that day. I recommend to anyone who is trying to lose a few pounds and is finding it difficult, to become a roadie for a punk rock band. But we knew how to have fun. We were young and alive! We were full of Jack Kerouac and full of excitement for what the next town, the next city, the next few miles would bring us. We’d gotten crappy tattoos together in L.A., we wrestled in the salt flats of Utah, we played with the Dead Kennedys in Berkeley. And then there was New Orleans. In July. Like stepping into the mouth of a panting and overheated dog. Nights a touch cooler when all the people came out. When the danger came out. My first experience in a city of trying to get used

to the sound of random gunfire. We stayed with a friend, an artist, who lived in an old mansion with 16-foot-high ceilings and a pack of dogs. He took us to Uptown blues clubs, to downtown cheap restaurants. He showed us the city, where to find happy hour prices at five in the morning. I fell in love with that place. The living, breathing history of neighbourhoods with names like Tremé, where Buddy Bolden first played a music called jazz, or the Lower Garden District, where mansions mingle with shotgun houses, or Mid-City, where a bayou wends its way through massive City Park. I fell in love easy with this place where the Mississippi River curves slow like a crescent, where the antebellum architecture, the live-oak-lined avenues, the 1940s-era streetcars clanging down St. Charles Avenue, all lead to the same place. Decadence. Even on a shoestring. Every young man’s dream. The sense of lurking danger down rough-looking blocks. New Orleans is a city so easy to fall head over heels for. Twenty-six years later and I’m still here, living now a bit more comfortably than that punk rock kid did. My wife, Amanda, and I, we live in Mid-City by Bayou St. John in a

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 95

120-year-old converted corner grocery store along with our rescue dog, Fritz Friday. Yes, it’s a good life I’ve found in the City That Care Forgot. Almost idyllic, maybe. But the thing about New Orleans is this: just when you think you’ve got it all figured out, that you’ve found the perfect life in America’s very own banana republic, a friend gets mugged at gunpoint or the murders over a single weekend go into double digits or you hear that your former mayor has been sent to prison for 10 years for some seriously underhanded dealings while in office. Or worse. When Katrina roared onto shore back almost 10 years ago, I wasn’t the only one who feared that New Orleans had finally been dealt its death blow. Hundreds and hundreds of innocent people dead, a city’s infrastructure demolished, a nation left reeling as we stared at our underbelly, at our own self-inflicted wound, the thin flesh torn away to expose the racism and denial and poverty and inequality. How does a place come back after a disaster like that? What I found out, though, is that I sorely underestimated the resilience of one of North America’s greatest cities. After all, isn’t this the place that has survived countless devastating storms, plagues and wars? After Katrina, the citizens of my home immediately began to come back and began to rebuild, to help one another in the reconstruction. And now, almost 10 years later, I see a type of renaissance happening all around me. New Orleans is nothing if not a city of closely knit neighbourhoods where your friends are like family. Whether it’s Uptown or the French Quarter, whether it’s the Marigny or Lower Ninth, whether it’s Algiers or Pigeon Town, you watch out for each other. You arrive at the party and add your ingredient into the pot of communal gumbo. You throw your labour into helping a friend replace his roof or dig up her garden. And then you pop open a beer and sit down to eat some of the greatest food and listen to some of the greatest music in the world together. New Orleans is by no means perfect. But maybe it’s the imperfections that make this place so its own. This is the town, after all, that birthed America’s music, jazz, the hybrid of all that is best in the art form. When you come down to New Orleans to visit, it’s hard to leave. We call it getting stuck in the mud. And it’s a good mud we slop through, warm and aromatic. New Orleans is more than that, though. It’s the northernmost port of the Caribbean, a place whose history is a walking contradiction. The country’s largest slave market flourished here before the Civil War and yet it was a town where free men of colour lived in mansions beside white slave owners. It is the place where the last battle of The War of 1812 was fought, three weeks after that war had ended. It is a place that teemed with pirates and statesmen and exiled royalty and criminals and always opened its arms to the immigrants of the world, whether they were from Italy or Ireland or Haiti or Honduras or, once in a while, even from Canada. In fact, the Canadian-born Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville founded this city on the banks of the Mississippi way back in 1718, wisely listening to the local Native population to build on the high ground that didn’t flood; that particular neighbourhood is now called the Vieux Carré, also known as the French Quarter. But I get ahead of myself. As you can tell, there’s so much more to learn about this place. My suggestion is to pack a bag and make your own way down and explore this banana republic in the deep south of the United States for yourself. One thing I can certainly promise you: you won’t be disappointed you did. h

96 HARRY

DION ST YLE • QUALITY • SER VICE

w w w. d i o n n e c k we a r. co m

Dr. Robert Bristow

Cancer on the Run THE PRINCESS MARGARET CANCER FOUNDATION

develops a test to identify aggressive and nonaggressive prostate cancer that will change our dialogue about the disease – and save men’s lives on an unprecedented level BY GARY BUTLER

E WILL CONQUER CANCER IN OUR LIFETIME. Bold and determined, the mission statement of The Princess Margaret Cancer Foundation (PMCF) is firmly focussed on the road ahead, step by step. Runners embrace the same perspective. In the spirit of this can-do, will-do attitude, the Harry’s Spring Run-Off charity event was founded to honour the late chairman and CEO of Harry Rosen, Robert Humphrey. Since 2004, Harry’s annual 5k and 8k fun runs have raised money for prostate cancer research. Why prostate cancer in particular, when Mr. Humphrey was taken by pancreatic cancer? “As Canada’s men’s clothier,

we wanted to both honour Bob and make a difference to men’s health,” says current CEO Larry Rosen. “Sadly, many people don’t realize that prostate cancer is the most common cancer in men and the second most deadly, after lung cancer. With this run, we hope to change that.” Every dollar of the $3 million raised to date by Harry’s runs has been donated to the PMCF, based in Toronto and recognized as one of the world’s pre-eminent research facilities for what is perhaps humanity’s most infamous disease. While an absolute cure for cancer remains elusive, clinicianscientist Dr. Robert Bristow recently announced a prostate cancer research breakthrough he estimates will save the lives of tens of thousands of men annually. Leading a worldwide team of 41 doctors out of the PMCF in Canada, Bristow developed a new test to predict the rate of, advance of, and commensurately the correct treatment for, prostate cancer. On the eve of his announcement, last fall, Bristow distinguished the modern “personalized medicine” for cancer treatment from “paternalistic medicine, where the doctor tells the patients what to do, pats them on the back and says, ‘There there, I know what’s best.’ Really, that era is gone. And should be.” The problems with the paternalistic approach were both overtreatment and undertreatment, as well as what often amounted to best-guesswork. It saw prostate cancer treatment typically err on the side of generalizing because a proper test never existed to separate aggressive from non-aggressive manifestations – until now. Bristow explains: “This is the new paradigm: one hundred blue men walk through the door. They are blue to the clinician, and they get exactly the same treatment. But we know that 30 of them are actually orange: they are going to have a more than 50 percent chance of that treatment failing. We pull those orange patients out of the blue the minute they come to the door because they’ve already done the tests. We give them a real conversation about what are their personal genetics and therefore what is the personal treatment plan we have for them.” Bristow points out that his test’s ability to identify this sizeable subset makes it much easier to properly target treatments for them and their majority brothers. While this logical separation approach sounds simple enough on paper, it took years for a networked system of sequencing machines, which occupied the better part

of an entire office building floor, to crunch the data. It also required a colossal amount of money. How much money? “Twenty million,” says Bristow, “just to sequence the cancer. It just covered it.” Bristow’s team beat out all other competing cancer research groups to win a financial grant of approximately that size in 2009. The doctor cites the funding from Harry’s runs as key in helping him build his Canadian base so that, when the time came to bid for the bigger bucks, “we had the team, the research and the biopsies ready to go. We were able to say, WE are the people to do this, NOW.” Paul Alofs, PMCF president and CEO and renowned author of Passion Capital, echoes Bristow’s acknowledgement. “This breakthrough is the result of a decade of support,” he says. “Besides long-term financial assistance, Harry Rosen put the spotlight on prostate cancer, emphasizing awareness on a subject men just didn’t talk about.” They talk about it now, says Bristow. What a difference a decade makes. With the new test’s radically improved odds of survival – Bristow estimates an additional 35,000 men, worldwide – talking the talk and running the race has never been more hopeful when it comes to conquering prostate cancer. Perhaps not surprisingly, Bristow, Alofs and Rosen talk about this revolutionary research breakthrough as being inclusive, participatory, cooperative. “It’s a team effort,” they say, to a one. They’ll put their charitable donations where their mouths, and feet, are on Saturday, April 4, at Harry’s Spring RunOff. Keep up with them, why don’t you? It’s perhaps the very best way to keep up the good work. h The 10th running of Harry’s Spring Run-Off is in Toronto’s High Park on Saturday, April 4. To register – or to make a donation to the PMCF – please visit www.HarrysSpringRunOff.ca.

Help Harry Rosen fight prostate cancer. This May, look for specially designed, exuberantly colourful Marcoliani socks online and in all Harry Rosen stores, priced at $35. Funds raised go to local researchers across the country, in collaboration with Prostate Cancer Canada. A perfect gift for Father’s Day.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 99

Cities

Local expertise and information for the business traveller

Over the years we have gathered invaluable information about the Canadian cities where Harry Rosen has a store – Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Winnipeg, Calgary, Edmonton and Vancouver. Top local food writers recommend restaurants, hotels and other essential urban

NEW ORLEANS Remember your first trip to an exotic locale? Roll those images around in your mind for a few minutes before you start planning a visit to New Orleans. Without that frame of reference, you might miss the best aspects of a place quite different from the rest of the U.S.: different roots, different food, different architecture, different outlook on life. You won’t have to look hard to find good food in New Orleans. It will look for you, and it will wind up being the most interesting part of the visit. While New Orleans chefs don’t ignore American and international trends, they answer the demand from local eaters for Creole and Cajun flavour. That comes not only from the omnipresent red pepper but also from a wealth of first-class local seafood.

Great place to take a New Orleanian for dinner The best restaurant in New Orleans today is COMMANDER’S PALACE, in the Garden District (1403 Washington Ave., 504 899 8221, www.commanderspalace.com). Despite its longevity (it opened in 1880), its kitchen is on the front lines of inventiveness. The Chef’s Playground menu is the way to go – seven or so courses mixing delicious risks and dares with the classics. Hard to come here and not have the turtle soup at the beginning and the Creole bread pudding soufflé at the end. The service staff is agreeably overmanned, the wine cellar distinguished and enormous, and the environment an antebellum mansion abutting a large, oak-shaded courtyard.

services and keep this data up to date. Find their latest tips, together with our archives, at www.harryrosen.com. Meanwhile, we’ve asked leading local food critic Tom Fitzmorris to show us around New Orleans.

By Tom Fitzmorris

the same category. Most of those are Uptown, but the hip Marigny and Bywater neighbourhoods (just downstream from the French Quarter) are full of adventuresome cafés in unique surroundings. MAUREPAS FOODS has a fascinating, locally sourced menu that starts vegetarian but shifts to carnivory halfway. Not far away is MARIZA, a with-it local take on Italian.

Great neighbourhood cafés The best in this stratum are in Mid-City, up on the Canal Streetcar line. There we find DOOKY CHASE’S (2301 Orleans Ave., 504 821 1934, www.dookychaserestaurant.com),

where the brilliant, nonagenarian Chef Leah Chase continues her reign as Queen of Creole cooking. Not far away are KATIE’S, for plate specials and fried seafood (3701 Iberville St., 504 488 6582, www.katiesinmidcity. com), MANDINA’S, for Italian and seafood (3800 Canal St., 504 482 9179, www.mandinas restaurant.com) and the matchless PARKWAY POOR BOYS (538 Hagan Ave., 504 482 3047, www.parkwaypoorboys.com),

famous for its poor boys.

Great neighbourhood walk

Royal St., 504 523 2078, www.mrbsbistro.com)

makes the best versions of so many New Orleans dishes that it can credibly be said to have the best food in the city. THE PELICAN CLUB, LA PETITE GROCERY, CLANCY’S and GAUTREAU’S are others in

100 HARRY

GALATOIRE’S (209 Bourbon St., 504 525 2021, www.galatoires.com) the Friday before Mardi

Gras. The last two years brought more major new restaurants to the French Quarter than in a long time. DORIS METROPOLITAN (620 Chartres St., 504 267 3500, www.dorismetropolitan. com) is a new specialist in dry-aged steaks and chops, many in offbeat cuts. KINGFISH (337 Chartres St., 504 598 5005, www.kingfishnew orleans.com) is a cutting-edge Cajun place,

with waiters with unique personal stories. And then there’s the reopening – to the tune of some $20 million – of the celebrated BRENNAN’S and its rightly famous breakfast.

Great places for music Music rivals any other New Orleans pleasure. The clubs begin on Decatur Street, near the riverfront, where the HOUSE OF BLUES leads the league with name players from the worlds of jazz, gospel, pop and even some blues. The music spirals outward across the French Quarter into the adjacent Marigny. I like KERMIT’S MOTHER-IN-LAW LOUNGE, THREE MUSES and SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO. All these have food, but the venue combining eats and music best is the

Begin amongst the handsome old homes of the GARDEN DISTRICT, pass an ancient cemetery with New Orleans’s distinctive above-ground tombs, then head Uptown on MAGAZINE STREET. Magazine didn’t go under when Hurricane Katrina flooded 80 percent of the city in 2005. Its dozens of bars, bistros and shops were among the first businesses to return after the disaster and they have a style all their own.

LITTLE GEM SALOON (445 S. Rampart St., 504 267 4863, www.littlegemsaloon.com). In the

The French Quarter

(4905 Freret St., 504 302 2357, www.curenola. com), on the burgeoning Freret Street

Great bistros The casual bistro scene is the strongest part of the restaurant experience. MR. B’S (201

reservation than one for lunch at

The historic centre of the city is also the centre of tourism, some of which can be crass. Yet when most local people think of a night on the town, the French Quarter looms large. The old restaurants (ANTOINE’S opened in 1840) hold a special place in a Creole homie’s heart. There is no rarer

heart of the nearly extinct South Rampart strip, where jazz was born, the Little Gem has two music-dining rooms, each with a full menu and highly listenable jazz performers every night.

Great places for cocktails The city’s bars embrace the renaissance in drink-making, and the trendsetter is CURE

restaurant row. Its owner is as much a chemist as a bartender. That inventiveness also shows up in the French Quarter at ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 bar and RICHARD FISKE’S MARTINI BAR AND RESTAURANT,

to name only two of a growing population.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 101

ILLUSTRATION, GARY VENN

Services

At Harry Rosen, the fine print can help you out

internationally respected men’s style magazine is printed twice a year and is available online 24/7. HARRY'S NOTES ON MEN’S STYLE

Look for this under Harry’s Notebook online. You’ll find postings about new arrivals, collections, designers, events, advice, Ask Harry how-to videos and much more.

Keep us informed as to your preferences CONTACT INFORMATION

LIFETIME MAINTENANCE GUARANTEE

We want to ensure that you look and feel your best in every garment you purchase from us. That’s why we provide complimentary maintenance and repairs to you, the original owner, for the lifetime of each tailored garment. If you ever find yourself in need of having a button replaced, a seam fixed or other minor repairs, simply bring the item into any of our stores, where professional tailors will attend to it as soon as possible (let us know if you’re in a hurry), on-site and free of charge. What’s more, should your garment require alterations due to weight loss or — heaven forbid — weight gain, we will make the necessary adjustments for you to a maximum of one size up or down, also at no charge. Health regulations require that you have the garment dry-cleaned before bringing it in for either of these services.

102 HARRY

ULTIMATE RETURN POLICY

If one of our garments fails to live up to reasonable expectations, please bring it back. Whether it requires a refund, replacement or repair, we’ll happily do whatever is needed to give satisfaction. SHOP BY APPOINTMENT

For your convenience, a clothing advisor can preselect items, even an entire wardrobe, and have them ready for your consideration. EMERGENCY SERVICES

Call us and we’ll immediately resolve issues such as missing buttons, replacing a shirt, last-minute alterations, et cetera.

we’ve provided outstanding service in every respect. SHOP ONLINE OR IN-STORE

We offer an array of the best merchandise online at www.harryrosen.com. Now, you can also view our tailored clothing collections in suits, sports jackets, and formal wear. You can arrange for Pick-Up In-store or have it shipped directly to your home. In regard to tailored clothing, we strongly urge that you avail yourself of our Complimentary Alterations to ensure the best possible fit.

We endeavour to keep you informed

ALTERATIONS

ADVANCE NOTICE OF SALES &

Our on-site tailors provide world-class alteration services free of charge on regular-priced items. Alteration charges on sale merchandise are waived for customers in the Silver or higher tiers of our Sartoria Recognition Program.

EVENTS TO OUR CUSTOMERS

SATISFACTION FOLLOW-UP

After every purchase we’ll contact you to offer any additional assistance you may require and to ensure that

To give you greater shopping opportunities, you’ll be notified before the general public.

Please notify us at the store or at harry@harryrosen.com of any change in your e-mail address, telephone number or mailing address, and we’ll update your file.

CANADA’S 50 BEST MANAGED COMPANIES PLATINUM CLUB

In 1993, Deloitte established the Canada’s Best Managed Companies business awards program, recognizing excellence in Canadianowned and -managed companies with revenues over $10 million. Every year, hundreds of entrepreneurial companies compete for this designation in a rigorous and independent process that evaluates the calibre of their management abilities and practices. Companies that win for six or more consecutive years receive the Platinum Club award. Harry Rosen is one such company.

Harry’s Sartoria Recognition Program This program is our way of ensuring that every one of our customers, from the occasional shopper to the most loyal client, is perpetually re-inspired by our providing the most rewarding, most personal menswear experience in Canada. As with many recognition programs, it acknowledges different customer purchase levels through the use of Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum or Platinum Elite tiers. Each tier provides a menu of above-and-beyond services and introduces a layer of unforeseen benefits provided by our associates that reinforce our commitment to caring for your investment in your wardrobe. You can review the Sartoria Recognition Program at your convenience online at www.harryrosen.com.

ASK HARRY

While our clothing advisors provide impressive expertise on all sartorial matters, you can also Ask Harry online and we’ll respond at www.harryrosen.com.

h HARRY MAGAZINE

Our substantial and

FOR AN INTRODUCTION TO OUR STORES, OUR PHILOSOPHY AND OUR SERVICES,

please go to the Customer Journey at www.harryrosen.com.

PHOTOGRAPHY, TOM ARBAN

Harry Rosen provides a menu of above-andbeyond services

Our own recognition

Guide

Looking for a specific label? A favourite designer? You’ll find it below, together with our store directory.

Available at all Harry Rosen stores 7 For All Mankind Adriano Goldschmied Denim Armani Collezioni BOSS Benson Brax Bugatchi Burberry Brit Canada Goose Canali Citizens of Humanity Coppley Corneliani Dion Eton G-Lab J Brand J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn John Varvatos Star USA L.B.M. 1911 Michael Kors Paige Denim Paul & Shark Polo Ralph Lauren PYA Black Label Velvet Man Alberto Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre Altea Toronto Sherway Gardens Winnipeg Polo Park Calgary Chinook Centre Aquascutum Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens Ottawa Rideau Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Belstaff Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Brioni Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Brunello Cucinelli Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre

Circolo Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Yorkdale Calgary Chinook Centre Vancouver Pacific Centre Costume National Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Dolce & Gabbana Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre DSquared Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre Diesel Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Ermenegildo Zegna Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, First Canadian Place, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre Etro Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre

John Varvatos Collection Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Vancouver Pacific Centre Kiton Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Lanvin Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Loro Piana Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Vancouver Pacific Centre Maison Martin Margiela Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Vancouver Pacific Centre Maurizio Baldassari Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Yorkdale, Sherway Gardens Ottawa Rideau Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Moncler Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Carrefour Laval, Les Cours Mont-Royal Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Moncler Gamme Bleu Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Calgary CORE - TD Square

Giorgio Armani Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre

Ralph Lauren Black Label Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre

Hiltl Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square

Ralph Lauren Double RL Toronto 82 Bloor Street West

Isaia Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Vancouver Pacific Centre Jil Sander Toronto 82 Bloor Street West

Robert Talbott Toronto Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Tom Ford Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre

Versace Collection Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Carrefour Laval Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Vilebrequin Toronto Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Carrefour Laval, Les Cours Mont-Royal, Vancouver Pacific Centre Z Zegna Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Carrefour Laval, Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Shoes Alejandro Ingelmo Allen Edmonds Armani Brunello Cucinelli BOSS Canali Church’s Cole Haan Dolce & Gabbana Ermenegildo Zegna Filling Pieces Giuseppe Zanotti Jimmy Choo John Varvatos Lanvin Maison Martin Margeila Moncler New Balance Paul Smith Prada Salvatore Ferragamo Sperry To Boot New York Tod’s Tom Ford Versace Not all shoes available at all stores. Please speak to one of our associates or visit www.harryrosen.com.

We try to keep everything in stock, but some merchandise in this book may not be in our stores at all times. If you have any questions, please contact your clothing advisor or store manager at any of the stores listed here. Prices may be subject to change without notice. Harry Rosen Store Directory Toronto 82 Bloor Street West 416 972 0556 Eaton Centre 416 598 8885 First Canadian Place 416 981 9097 Mississauga Square One 905 896 1103 Sherway Gardens 416 620 6967 Yorkdale Shopping Centre 416 787 4231 Ottawa Rideau Centre 613 230 7232 Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal 514 284 3315 Carrefour Laval 450 688 4123 Winnipeg Polo Park Shopping Centre 204 786 2368 Edmonton West Edmonton Mall 780 444 1637 Calgary Chinook Centre 403 252 2848 CORE - TD Square 403 294 0992 Vancouver Oakridge Centre 604 266 1172 Pacific Centre 604 683 6861 If you enjoy receiving your copy of harry but have had a change of address, please advise us of your new mailing address by e-mail at harry@harryrosen.com or write to us at: Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 103

The World of... Brunello Cucinelli

Umbrian sharecropper who left the land to work in a factory when Brunello was 15. The humiliation his father endured left a deep impression on the boy. An indifferent student, Brunello found his calling in his early 20s, visiting boutiques in Northern Italy, Switzerland, Austria and Germany with his small collection of colourful cashmere sweaters. Today, Brunello Cucinelli’s elegant, soft-textured, layered sportswear is world-renowned and his company is listed on the Italian stock exchange. His masterpiece is Solomeo, a medieval hilltop town in Umbria that he has been restoring for decades, stone by stone, building by building. His home, corporate HQ and workshops are there and he has added schools, a theatre, a garden of contemplation – and a shared way of life for his workforce, predicated on dignity.

“When I was a young man, I spent 10 years hanging out in bars and cafés. What did we do? Lengthy discussions about philosophy, theology, economics, politics, women, soccer, religion… Discussions, jokes and dreams… My dream was to be a guardian who works for the dignity of man – both moral and economic. If I give you dignity, that sparks responsibility, responsibility generates creativity and positivity. Human beings are kinder and more creative when they feel valued. This is certain.” “My greatest teachers are philosophers, emperors and saints. The emperor Marcus Aurelius was my first great teacher. He said, ‘Seek to live in harmony with nature. Seek serenity even when your soul is troubled.’ Our era is one of troubled souls.” “What are my hopes for Solomeo? I know it’s a very small part of the world, but the Greek sages said, ‘It’s our duty to leave you a city more beautiful than the one we found when we became its guardians.’ I don’t know Greek, but I think like a Greek.”

104 HARRY

“There are three things in life you can’t buy: exercise, diet and culture. You must do these things on your own. I get up every morning at 6 a.m. and do my workout. I start work at 8 a.m. I like to work hard but only for a few hours – eight hours a day. You must also nourish the soul and the mind. You have to take care of your family, of yourself, and you have to raise your eyes to the heavens, as St. Augustine says, every now and then.” “My main idea – sporty-chic luxury clothing. You can wear a tailored jacket with cargo pants but the materials must be splendid and the craftsmanship fantastic.” “What does cashmere mean to me? It’s the warmest, the most beautiful raw material in the world and it comes from one of the most inhospitable places on Earth. Ponder how Mother Nature works! It’s a special material.You can’t throw away cashmere. I don’t know anyone who has ever discarded a cashmere pullover.” “My dad – he’s 92 – always says, ‘If you live a decent life, maybe you’ll receive something extra.’ He also says, ‘Do you want to be the richest person in the graveyard?’”

ILLUSTRATION, LISA SMITH; ITALIAN TRANSLATION, LUIGI BENETTON

runello Cucinelli is the youngest son of an

www.brunellocucinelli.com

All things come from the Earth XENOPHANES

PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40051686 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Harry Rosen Inc., 77 Bloor Street West, Suite 1600, Toronto, ON M5S 1M2