HEAVEN
HAS HEELS
designer talk // special issue EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS WITH FASHION’S RISING STARS INCLUDING KRYSTELL BARRAZA | ANA MICKOVIC | IVANKA HRISTOVA | VERITY & VOLITION | MARP | DUE FASHION | TZULI HSU | OROCEO CASTRO | YLLIN | NICO SUTOR STELLA SALLAKU | LONGSHAW WARD | LINDY FOX | NADIA RAPTI | MARINE SERRE | NOORISM | ALOURA LONDON | REBECCA KELLETT | PARLOR
CONTENTS
KRYSTELL BARRAZA ANA MICKOVIC IVANKA HRISTOVA VERITY & VOLITION MARP DUE FASHION TZULI HSU OROCEO CASTRO YLLIN NICO SUTOR STELLA SALLAKU LONGSHAW WARD LINDY FOX NADIA RAPTI MARINE SERRE NOORISM ALOURA LONDON REBECCA KELLETT PARLOR
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HEAVEN
HAS HEELS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Angela Gilltrap CREATIVE DIRECTOR Rochelle Taylor PHOTO DIRECTOR Rob Shaw COPY EDITOR Tonya Markus FEATURES EDITOR Julia Stuart Heaven Has Heels magazine is published by Lot 17 Media. The entire contents of Heaven Has Heels are protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of the publisher. Heaven Has Heels accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts and/or photographs and assumes no liability for products or services advertised herein. Heaven Has Heels reserves the right to edit, rewrite, refuse or reuse material, is not responsible for errors or omissions and may feature same on HeavenHasHeels.com, as well as other mediums for any and all purposes.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
T
he world is full of talent; you only need to know where to look. Every day myself and the team here at Heaven Has Heels scour the internet, trade shows, fashion weeks
and graduation collections all over the world to discover the next big thing in fashion, footwear and accessories. It’s one of my favorite parts of the job.
It’s an honor to be able to provide a
platform on which these designers can be seen and heard because clothes are more than simply material. Each collection is the culmination of a designer’s life work—their personal triumphs and failures, their attempts to outwardly express an inner dialogue. Financially, it’s the basis of a community’s infrastructure, a family’s sole income, a craftsman’s way of life.
While global chains and fast fashion rise,
so too does the power of the independent designer who help each of us express our ideals, style and own unique expression to the world. Here at Heaven Has Heels, we feel this is worth celebrating.
I sincerely hope you enjoy this special issue
of Designer Talk that provides a glimpse into the workings of these amazing, independent fashion designers.
Until next time, may your heels be as high
as your standards,
Angela Gilltrap
Editor-In-Chief
KRYSTELL BARRAZA Young American designer, Krystell
material and make sure that it does not
Barraza draws inspiration from unique
go to waste. The artisans who make them
landscapes, pop culture and her real
usually take 150 hours to create a single
(and imaginary) travels. A graduate
piece, so I feel like I owe it to them to
of the School of the Art Institute of
create something that they would be
Chicago (SAIC), her globe trotting
proud of too.
adventures have helped shape her covetable modern-American aesthetic.
How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? For many, the
How did you become involved in fashion
Midwest = more wearable, and that holds
design? It was all by chance. When I
true to my own aesthetic to some extent.
was fifteen, a friend introduced me to
However, I do like to draw inspiration
a designer that worked in Chicago. On
from unique locations, whether that’s
the weekend, my parents would drive
the Icelandic countryside or a desert
me to her place and I would help around
with snow-white sand in New Mexico.
her studio or with client fittings. After
I then build a collection around those
we finished the day’s errands, she would
places (and shoot there!). So I don’t let
teach me how to make a garment from
my location limit me in that regard.
scratch. Over a period of six months, she gave me a great foundation in how
What’s been your greatest professional
to create a sketch, translate that into a
achievement to date? The response I
pattern, and then finally sew it up. After
received after launching my business
that experience I knew that I wanted to
despite still being in school at the time—
pursue design as a career.
every pull request, every new client—is a nice piece of validation in knowing
What materials do you most like to
that I made the right decision, even if it
work with? Up until recently, I would
seemed rash at the very beginning.
have said any kind of silk. But now, I enjoy working with handwoven textiles
What’s one thing people would never
so much more. Each one is an absolute
guess about you? I love Star Wars! —
treasure, and it forces me to respect the
KrystellBarraza.com
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ANA MIĆKOVIĆ With a contemporary twist on modern classics, Ana
to these natural elements and reference chakras as a
Mićković has attracted loyal fans to her burgeoning
means of promoting health and well-being. The designs
line of ready-to-wear pieces. The twenty-five year old
aim to be receptive to the elements, and to sensitively
designer from Serbia aims to challenge the way fashion
express and harness the fluctuating forces of the natural
is perceived, creating high-end, covet-able garments
crystal world. The Good Vibrations collection exemplifies
inspired by a sense of well-being, art and nature.
how fashion has the power to change moods and emotions.
How did you become involved in fashion design? My early involvement in the arts—exploring painting,
How does your geographic location influence your
calligraphy, theater, and music—started while I was
aesthetic? I love visiting places and learning from
living in Beijing, China. It led to my passion for drawing
different people. London has thought me to be more
and I developed an appreciation of applied arts and
open-mined, because of its culture that gives you total
design. I pursued my Bachelor’s degree at The Faculty of
freedom which is the key to creativity. Designers can
Applied Arts in my hometown Belgrade. While studying,
explore their ideas and atheistic without limitations,
I worked as an assistant designer, costume designer and
while my home country Serbia influenced the use of
volunteered in museums. After my bachelor fashion show
handmade techniques and detail oriented design.
and exhibition, I decided to undertake a Master’s degree in London, where I interned for Gareth Pugh and Erdem.
What’s been your greatest professional achievement to
My master’s collection Good Vibrations, marked the debut
date? I have several notable accomplishments in both my
of my brand, Ana Mićković. I enjoy being involved in all
education and my work experience. Probably the most
aspects of fashion, so I also work as a freelance stylist
notable accomplishment was the launch of my Good
and as an assistant to the fashion editor of ELLE Serbia
Vibrations collection and starting my own business. I feel
magazine.
my greatest professional achievement is yet to come. I am proud of who I have worked for and how many people
What materials do you most like to work with? I work
love my designs. Being able to work doing what I enjoy is
with a wide variety of materials, combining traditional
what I value most.
methods of textile making with new materials and technologies balances tradition with innovation. I used
What’s one thing people would never guess about
high quality natural materials for my Good Vibrations
you? That I worked in a karaoke club while studying my
collection where craftsmanship is apparent. The essence
Master’s in London. All the money I made I spent on
of crystals and chakras has informed the collection. Their
materials for my collection. — AnaMickovic.com
qualities and their geometry have been key. They have influenced the process of shaping and manipulating the garments and fabrics. The embellishments relate directly
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IVANKA HRISTOVA Founded in 2015, Ivanka Hristova launched her eponymous brand following
How does your geographic location i
the success of her graduate collection. Born in Bulgaria, based in London, her
Bulgaria, then moved to London at th
passion for textile and print development combined with her hand embroidered
costumes were the inspiration for my
textile techniques make this young designer one-to-watch.
unexpectedly successful, and stood as
How did you become involved in fashion design? I initially started studying
What’s been your greatest profession
fashion design and textiles in secondary school, which lead all the way to
business at the age of twenty-five is r
university. However, by the time I reached my final year, at the University of
attention, self-focus and dedication I
East London—not realizing the hard work it requires—I was more enticed by the
Being able to be in control of your cre
artistic side of fashion, for example the process of creating a product. Today, I am definitely a lot more business orientated/conscious.
What’s one thing people would never
as well as designing my silhouettes an What materials do you most like to work with? I am aiming to establish my
which go on the final outfits. I enjoy e
brand as being recognizably ethical and creatively outstanding.
prefer finding that perfect “clique” by fabrications. — IvankaHristova.co.uk
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influence your aesthetic? I was born in
he age of ten. Native Bulgarian festival
y Graduate Collection that happened to be
s the flipping point of my career.
nal achievement to date? Having my own
really what keeps me going for the amount of
I must put in every single minute of the day.
eative process and showcase, is incredible.
r guess about you? People never guess that
nd shapes, I also design all of the prints,
experimenting with color and print, and
y myself, rather than depend on existing
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VERITY & VOLITION Based in Dallas, Texas Verity & Volition is the brainchild
comfortably.
of designer Cheyenne Xia. The aim: to produce premium quality clothing, integrity in sourcing & production, all at
How does your geographic location influence your atheistic?
an affordable price point.
Not so much, as a matter of fact. I like to incorporate different cultural elements in my designs in a subtle way.
How did you become involved in fashion design? I was
For me, design, like any other creative means, is a universal
born and raised in a traditional Chinese family. I have been
language in communicating your ideas, passion, and point of
immersed in arts since the age of seven, when I began
view. I consciously remind myself not to limit my design to
studying classical piano performance. Although I no longer
one or two geographic locations.
compete, the classical music remains one of my passions and sources of creativity. I was trained as an economist
What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date?
academically, but it has never quite settled into place in my
I started my fashion brand in 2015 and started a fashion
heart. I continued to seek my passion in life which led me to
technology project, attempting to connect people with
fashion design. I started studying fashion design in 2012 and
technical fashion design skills with those who are looking for
the rest, as they say, is history. Fashion design serves as the
such skills to launch their designs in an online market place.
amalgamation of both my analytical and creative mind. What’s one thing people would never guess about you? What materials do you most like to work with? I like to work
I have a Master’s degree in Economics and I was a PhD
with natural fibers; and wool, cotton, and silk are my favorite
candidate for Economics.
materials—both woven and knits. They wear beautifully and
MARP Clean lines, architectural forms and
How does your geographic location
a sense of wonder are the aesthetic
influence your aesthetic? Today, we are
ideals of Marp—a Moscow-based
based in Moscow. I can’t say that there
women’s wear line created by young
is a Russian influence on my work. I
designer, Maria Pshenichnikova.
was very much influenced by Florence.
Melding form and function—with an
My soul is always in Florence. I love the
eye for the surreal—Pschenichnikova
landscape and nature in Italy. But so far,
creates unique, wearable pieces with
I am based in Russia, but anything can
an artistic flair.
change.
How did you become involved in
What’s been your greatest professional
fashion design? My mother is an
achievement to date? My greatest
architect, but she drew great fashion
professional achievement to date was
sketches for herself. I was always
my own performance in 2015, from
inspired by her art. I graduated the
concept to creation. I was able to realize
school of sewing and cutting when
my idea “in the red “ and bring it to the
I was eighteen. I continued on to
viewer.
the Moscow Architectural Institute, because it has a very strong base. After
What’s one thing people would never
graduation, I realized that I wanted
guess about you? I’m very sensitive.
to be a fashion designer. I went to a
I can understand on the first days
Polimoda in Florence and graduated in
that a woman is waiting for a child. —
2014. I returned to Russia and founded
MarpCollections.com
my brand MARP. The name derives from my first and last name and my education history: MARHI (Moscow Architectural Institute) (graduated in 2012 ) and Polimoda (graduated in 2014). What materials do you most like to work with? I prefer to work with natural fabrics: cotton, silk, wool and jacquard.
Photography: NATALI DO Model: DINARA ISLIAEVA for UMMO MODEL MANAGEMENT Makeup: EUGENE BAZHENOV
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DUE FASHION Lithuanian brand DUE Fashion feature
placed on the velvet gain more shades,
stunning prints inspired by nature with
the texture of the velvet adds shadows; it
a fresh take on everyday objects—from
gives a feeling that the fabric is alive.
a pair of fish scale printed leggings to a tunic dress with crumpled, black-paper
How do you think your geographic
print. Here, Indre Raubaite, project
location influences your aesthetic? DUE
manager of Due Fashion, talks more
Fashion was born in Asia four years ago
on the brand’s origins, aspirations and
when founders Indre Lukosiunaite and
future direction.
Linas Sinkunas were both living and traveling there. They were inspired by the
How did you become involved in fashion
beauty of nature, and the first collection
design? I was working in an advertising
of tops featured satellite photographs
agency for almost five years, but fashion
of the Earth. Our brand has a close
design was always the topic I was most
relationship with nature that inspires the
interested in. I worked with other fashion
whole team. At the moment, DUE Fashion
brands and was responsible for their
is located in Lithuania. This small but
marketing during those times; but then
beautiful country has four seasons—with
the day came when my friend, one of the
hot summers and cold winters. Each
founders of DUE Fashion, offered me the
season surprises us again and again—last
opportunity to join their team. My answer
winter we discovered long walks in the
was yes in less than one second, this was
snowy woods. How could this not be
the first time in my life when I had no
inspiring?
doubts that this was the thing I wanted to do.
What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? The greatest
What materials do you most like to work
achievement is returning customers; we
with? As DUE Fashion is mostly about
believe it’s the best compliment to any
the prints, we could never stop talking
brand.
about this topic. We seek the materials and collaborate with the artists, and as
What’s one thing people would never
a result, each item has its own story.
guess about you? I am in love with the
Talking about the fabric, velvet is one
nature that is strongly visible in our
of our greatest discoveries. The velvet
works; but I am also totally scared of
that we use is easy to look after and the
spiders. — DueFashion.com
most important thing is that the prints
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TZULI HSU
New York. London. Taipei. Tzuli Hsu’s eponymous line of h
is the result of countless globe trotting adventures and inte
Dedicated to producing quality, contemporary garments, H
for detail, expertise in knitwear and passion for design ma burgeoning label—one of fashion’s hottest rising stars.
How did you become involved in fashion design? I decided I
fashion design when I was in high school, but it wasn’t unti
Parsons that I was absolutely sure I wanted to work as a fash
my education I found out my interest and strength in fashio
working experiences in other designer brands, finally I decid label.
What materials do you most like to work with? Yarns. Woo
yak, silk, cotton, with different thickness and characteristics
possibilities of yarn are countless, and that’s why I love knit develop knitwear collections.
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high-end knitwear
How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? Having lived in
ernational studies.
New York, London and Taipei—and traveled to different countries—I embrace
Hsu’s keen eye
diverse cultures and experiences, which shape my visual sensibility on fashion.
ake her—and her
With eastern and western backgrounds, I have more room to further develop my collections.
I wanted to study
What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? Launching my
il my junior year at
brand. The prior research, sourcing, communication with factories, marketing,
hion designer. During
press, production. All of these took unimaginable time and effort, and I think it was
on, and throughout the
a much greater achievement than me exhibiting in Saks Fifth Avenue or featuring
ded to launch my own
in Vogue U.K. as an independent designer. What’s one thing people would never guess about you? My inspirations for new
ol, cashmere, mohair,
collections. I like to use my personal experiences and narratives as my inspirations,
s. The diversity and
but conceptual ones. So sometimes people might not be able to understand how
tting so much and why I
I translate them into my collections. But I don’t mind that; I like different people viewing my collections and creating their own interpretations and points of view. — TzuliHsu.com
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OROCÉO CASTRO Paolo and Ginny founded women’s
our designs and we love it! Melbourne’s
wear brand Orocéo Castro in 2015. The
residents are notorious for loving the color
brother and sister duo made a splash in
black. We are no different. We love black
the Australian fashion scene by utilizing
and neutrals. We tend to limit the amount
structured fabrics to create, and sculpt
of strong colors in our collections but we
flattering silhouettes. Drawing inspiration
can be quite adventurous when it comes to
from their fellow Melbourne fashionistas,
silhouettes. We also adore a striking print!
Orocéo Castro’s signature style transcends continents to appeal to a global audience.
What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? We definitely have
How did you become involved in fashion
a long way to go, and are still learning the
design? A few years back, I decided to finally
ropes, but we consider being invited to
study fashion after putting it off for so long.
stock at a few stores, as well as being invited
My sister, Ginny, did some fashion styling,
to several fashion shows and featured in
on and off. We are both health professionals
several magazines—all at both local and
but in 2015 we decided to try and start our
international levels—in just a year as
own label. We loved it so much, we decided
achievements. Nevertheless, we crave a lot
to just go for it. We’ve done three collections
more.
so far and we look forward to a lot more. What’s one thing people would never What materials do you most like to work
guess about you? That I eat like a hungry
with? We gravitate towards more structured
python and that Ginny is pretty good at poi
fabrics like ponti and neoprene that create
spinning! — OCMelb.com
really interesting shapes and silhouettes. We also like working with shirting fabrics because it is quite compatible with our style. How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? Melbourne has a relatively cooler climate however, it also experiences all seasons. This allows us to incorporate a myriad of types of fabrics into
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YLLIN Based in South London, YLLIN prides
vibrant on silk. More recently, I have
itself on being part of the slow fashion
been slowly learning how to use stretch
movement; where mindful design
fabrics as well so I can be more versatile
and manufacturing practices are as
in designs.
important as sales and global trends. The brainchild of Nilyma Khan, the
How does your geographic location
bright colors, entrancing motifs and
influence your aesthetic? My
figure-flattering silhouettes appeal to a
geographic location is very important
wide range of conscious consumers.
to me, being in London I am quite lucky to be surrounded with so much
How did you become involved in
inspiration. I am usually influenced
fashion design? From as early as I can
by something I see or find, that’s how
remember, I’ve always loved clothes. I
I build a concept. After building a
instantly fell in love with what I saw on
concept, I go out and find inspiration by
TV and in magazines. Growing up, we
using photography as my main medium
couldn’t really afford to buy cool or nice
to develop a starting point for color and
clothes so when I was around fourteen
shapes.
I realized that if I learned how to use a sewing machine I could make anything
What’s been your greatest professional
I wanted. That was how it begun. The
achievement to date? In 2016 YLLIN
first few things I made were made from
became represented by a creative
Asian saris, they were terrible but I still
agency in Los Angeles. Since having my
ran around in everything I made. I then
collection in their showroom, YLLIN’s
started to focus my studies in textiles/
awareness has been growing in L.A
fashion through high school, college
which lead to being feature in ELLE
and then to university—that’s how I
Croatia magazine, this was a very proud
ended up in London.
moment when I saw something I made printed in an ELLE editorial.
What materials do you most like to work with? I like working mostly with
What’s one thing people would never
woven fabrics because I find that I am
guess about you? I can be a bit nerdy,
able to create the shapes I am after a
with my spare time I like playing Zelda
lot better. When I studied fashion and
on the Nintendo Wii and hanging out
textiles, I focused on prints which was
with animals, up until now I always had
when I began to love using different
a few pets. — Yllin.co.uk
types of silks, the colors come out so
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NICO SUTOR Harnessing the creative energy of Berlin,
You can try everything in this city
designer Nico Sutor utilizes global
and this gives you power and so many
opportunities to create a covet-able line
opportunities, you can literally feel the
of androgynous and minimalist jersey
energy. Berlin is not Germany. People
basics for both men and women. Proudly
from all over the world come here and
Made in Berlin, Sutor’s commitment
bring their ideas and cultures with them.
to advanced handcrafting, cutting and
If you walk around with eyes open, this
draping techniques, express her design
is inspiration for 2000 collections and
ideals and dedication to workmanship.
Berliners love black. Lucky me! Even if they are starting to wear baby blue and
How did you become involved in fashion
pink now, it’s okay, it still works very well
design? After the Wall came down, my
with black.
Dad bought me a Barbie and she was naked! I couldn’t tolerate it and so while
What’s been your greatest professional
I was watching The Bold and the Beautiful
achievement to date? I can dress real
with my grandma, I started making
Barbies now, I m living the dream! I
her clothes and I found out, designing
have the luxury to go to places and meet
clothes was a real job! I love TV and the
people from all over the world, that is
Forresters.
what makes every sewing machine lapse and broken needle worth it. I was once at
What materials do you most like to work
a fashion show from a very hyped German
with? I love jersey, there is almost no
Designer and there was this woman and
limits to it. It’s very easy to work with
she was wearing one of my dresses, it
and gives you a certain freedom when you
was the first time that I’d met a complete
wear it. Some people wear my clothes for
stranger wearing my stuff, that was an
yoga, some for dancing in the Berghain,
amazing feeling!
and some on the red carpet, you could do it all in the same dress—if you change the
What’s one thing people would never
shoes. There is a special elegance to black
guess about you? Well, I like buying stuff,
jersey that I really love.
but I hate shopping. — NicoSutor.com
How do you think your location influences your aesthetic? Berlin is a huge playground for adults and creatives.
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Stella Sallaku’s story is sure to ins
built a successful atelier while com
competitive local market. Her pass
have helped her build a solid found on the international scene.
How did you become involved in fa
my dream has always been to desig
first doll and I handmade her entir
mother tossed. No other toy was ne
my dad kept the sketch book I used
carpet, surrounded by threads, piec
grandmother’s supervision of cour
The first sewing, knitting,
grandmother, who was talented in
most people would say, fashion bac
studied Environment Engineering,
MAISON STELLA SALLAKU
spire. The self-taught Romanian designer has
mpeting with international brands in a highly
able to make my own clothing. Four years later, I decided to start Maison Stella
At the age of twenty, I purchased a small sewing machine in order to be
sion for the craft and thirst for knowledge,
Sallaku, in a small venue in Tirana. The place was so modest but it didn’t matter
dation in her hometown while making waves
to me, I always had imagined a small but cozy place, elegant and sophisticated, yet with a modern touch. I started reading all the books I could find for fashion design techniques, The Little Dictionary of Fashion by C.D., Chanel, Pierre
ashion design? Since I was five years old,
Balmain, etc.
gn and sew clothes. In 1995, I was given my
re wardrobe from old t-shirts and blouses my
designers, their lives and experience. Still today, the rhythm is ten hours a day
My days were intense because I wanted to learn all about other fashion
early as attractive as making clothes, actually
of work (and sometimes more), and at night I read books dedicated to design.
d back then. I used to sit for hours on the
During these years in television, newspapers, magazines, radio etc, I saw
ces of fabric, scissors (with my mother’s and
potential in my unique style and designs. Recently I was given my own column at
rse) and Barbie dolls.
Tiranapost.al, In Stella Sallaku Lupe, it’s kind of like Fashion Police.
, embroidery lessons came from my
handmade clothing, especially knitting. As
sketchbook, I move to the cutting of the pattern and the first sewing by hand or
ck then was not a real profession in Albania, I
machinery myself. It is only after that, I give the garment to one of my employees
, but my heart was elsewhere.
to finish. Being part of the designing and making of my designs inspires me even
A hands on process is what I love, and it is why from designing in the
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more, as well as making our clients part of the whole process
educate clients what to ask from a fashion designer. A lot of
is something we both enjoy a lot.
times I thought of leaving Albania and working somewhere else, but something kept me here, I am sure it’s God’s plan.
What materials do you most like to work with? Personally,
So, instead of complaining and nagging about the situation I
I don’t like to put limitations on creativity. That’s why I
work hard, pray, and study new sewing techniques.
have tried different kind of fabrics—from jerseys, cotton,
crepe, crepe de chine, jacquard, brocade, silk, silk satin,
according to international fashion calendar, spring/summer
organdie, tulle, lace, elastics, scuba, sheer, chiffon, doc,
and fall/winter. It was our collaboration with JAANTE
velvet, cashmere, wool, fur. I can say that for a certain type
SHOWROOM in Switzerland who pushed me to continue
of design there is only one appropriate fabric that identifies
through every difficulty, hard work will be rewarded. And
the design 100%. It all comes down to the kind of garment
then Not Just a Label welcomed us with our collections on
I want to make, but as summer is almost here, I prefer doc,
their website and I am humbly grateful to that. It was a great
For a year now we are producing collections
elastic cotton, crepe de chine,
surprise and a huge blessing
silk, jersey and a good lace. In
to see my work there in the
the winter clothing I like to use
Global Community of emerging
wool mainly, as well as elastic
designers.
wool and cashmere.
My favorite fabrics are
What’s been your greatest
the wrinkle-free ones, especially
professional achievement to
for skirts, pants and jackets.
date? This is a tough question,
As for blouses or shirts I prefer
I don’t know actually. Every
silk, crepe de chine and cotton.
achievement was big and
A couple of years ago I felt in
important to me, and I had the
love with velvet, but you know it
privilege to learn a lot though
was just temporary and it comes
all our collaborations. But I may
from time-to-time.
say that being labeled as a Black Sheep Designer at Not Just a
How does your geographic
Label together with the runway
location influence your
that will be held in Zurich by our
aesthetic? Working in Albania
partner JAANTE with our SS’17
for the past three years in
Collection “Daisy,” has been the
fashion design has been and
best moments and inspired me
remains challenging. Albanians
to continue work hard and stick
love to have expensive clothes
to what I want to do, and what
such as (Gucci, Prada, Chanel,
God wants me to do.
Dior, etc.), but their income doesn’t allow for most of them to afford these brands. So the
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What’s one thing people would never guess about you?
easiest way to make it happen is to go to a tailor’s shop
Well, they never thought I would do bridal dresses, but I
and make it happen with a copied fabric from the above
did a couple of them last year, and I’m working on bridal
mentioned brands. Three years ago it was difficult to explain
dresses and suits this season, very custom-made ones. This
to all customers that I am a fashion designer and I can’t copy
might come as a surprise to many, because my previous
some other designer’s work. A lot of girls sent me photos of
collections were mostly ready-to-wear and custom-made
big brands and wanted the dress or suit made for them.
for special events. In Albania, bridal gowns are full of
jewelry, sequins, ruffles, layers etc. , on the other side I love
People seemed to not know what my job was and
sometimes still is this way, especially with TV celebrities.
minimalist bridal dresses. In my opinion we need a new kind
The struggle was—and is—to maintain the business running
of “Bride,” passionate, confident, loving, feminine, delicate,
and at the same time be okay with my creativity. I didn’t
sophisticated and smart. This is why I want to offer a new
want to promote my work through coping some other
kind of style to young brides who want to make the most
designer’s work and creativity, it was important to me to
from that day, not just be a huge White Christmas Tree.
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LONGSHAW WARD Launched in Spring 2017, designer
unexpected combinations, high-end
duo Longshaw & Ward have pooled
fabrics with more everyday ones to
their creative talents to produce a
create an interesting juxtaposition.
covet-able collection of women’s
We also like to use fabrics like net to
wear and accessories. We caught up
create layering and depth. Our super
David Longshaw—one half of this
impractical net parka is one of our
husband and wife team—to talk
favorite pieces.
style, inspiration and the evolution of Longshaw Ward.
How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? Though we
How did you become involved in
weren’t born in London it feels like
fashion design? Kirsty and I met
home, particularly creatively. From
designing in Italy for Alberta Ferretti.
the people, galleries and theater, to
It was our first design job after
the amazing architecture, London is
university—Kirsty’s from Oxfordshire,
constantly inspiring.
she studied on the fashion MA at St Martins. I’m from Manchester, I went
What’s been your greatest
to St. Martins BA (fashion women’s
professional achievement to date?
wear) then the Royal College of Art
We’re still waiting for it. It’s fashion, so
(MA women’s wear course). After
it’s always changing and you can never
Ferretti I went to Max Mara then we
spend too long thinking about past
returned to England to launch our own,
achievements.
separate labels which we had of about five years. We decided to merge our
What’s one thing people would never
labels, as we thought it would be more
guess about you? Our studio is based
fun and that we could create more
in an old violin shop. — LongshawWard.
exciting, stronger collections together.
com
What materials do you most like to work with? We love to work with
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LINDY FOX Utilitarian yet feminine, neutral
How does your geographic
yet bright, geometric yet
location influence your
flexible, Lindy Fox manages to
aesthetic? I definitely think
combine opposites to reflect the
about function being in NYC
contradictions in our life. The
because we’re so on the go
result, is clothing completely
and need our clothing to be as
rooted in self-expression. Here,
mobile as we are; to bend and
the designer talks to us about
twist with our bodies while still
her dream job, New York City,
looking good.
and life on the farm. What’s been your greatest How did you become involved
achievement to date? Having
in fashion design? From around
two runway shows.
junior high I knew I wanted to be in fashion. I entered through
What’s one thing people would
the business side and am now
never guess about you? That I
working on the design side—
love getting my hands dirty. I
finally living my dream. I took
was raised on a farm after all,
the long road but it’s all been
which I think you can see in my
beneficial.
clothing. — LindyFox.com
What materials do you most like the work with? Anything up-cycled and organic, something that feels it serves a bigger purpose than just being beautiful.
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NADIA RAPTI Contrasting elements are at the heart of Nadia
daring creations.
Rapti’s designs. As in life, it’s the complexities, that add layers of depth and interest. For
How does your geographic location influence
Rapti, this is personified in contrasting
your aesthetic? Greece is a blessed place with
elements— boho-romantic and elegant
unlimited beauty and contrasting elements
chic, feminine and masculine combinations,
but also a place with great history and art.
sumptuous and minimal designs. The result is
The unique beauty and elegance of the Greek
a collection of unique pieces designed for the
islands but also the wild nature of mainland
contemporary woman inspired by her home in
country as well as the lines and details of our
the Greek Islands.
sculptures and monuments are mixed with the vibrant spirit of our people to provide the
How did you become involved in fashion
inspiration I am looking for.
design? I was always attracted to the world of fashion. At first, it was the colors and textures
What’s been your greatest professional
of the fabrics and the runway shows, but as I
achievement to date? It’s very hard to decide
was became more exposed and involved, I was
to interpret in the fashion business, let alone
amazed by the creativity of the designers and
to dare to follow your dream in a period
the influence they had over the public. It’s very
characterized by financial instability. It
interesting how someone’s expression and
requires persistence, focus, continuous hard
taste may affect people’s lives and attitude.
work and development—but also experiment
So, I started by experimenting and remaking
and innovation—in order to grow in such
my own clothes and then I decided to take
a competitive and continuous changing
it seriously and study fashion design. After
environment. So yes, my greatest professional
that, everything was—and will continue to
accomplishment is the establishment and
be—a combination of continuous work, effort
development of “NADIA RAPTI.”
and development to give the best of me in an interesting but also jaded market.
What’s one thing people would never guess about you? That’s tough to say, you should
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What materials do you most like to work
probably ask a third person to answer that for
with? I don’t have boundaries on that. I
me. Although, I have to admit, that I have a
like to experiment with many materials and
complex and contrasting personality which is
compositions. Quality is of major importance
challenging but at the same time very useful
to me and there are basic standards on the
for my job because I always give you something
fabric selections but I like to combine materials
you don’t expect and this is obvious in my
and create unique details in order to give
creations. — NadiaRapti.com
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MARINE SERRE For Marine Serre fashion is all about self expression. The up-and-coming French designer has a passion for artisan and luxury design, interning at Maison Martin Margiela and Christian Dior. She is currently studying at the prestigious La Cambre Mode(s) Belgian Fashion Design School. How did you become involved in fashion design? Well, as a young girl I liked to dress and mix all kind of clothes of my mother, father and grandmother. What materials do you most like to work with? I like a lot of different materials but, if I have to choose: perhaps a good quality cotton. How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? By living in Belgium—Brussels in particular—I have developed an open-minded vision of fashion inspired by the many different people I have met. There are no rules here, or perhaps better, there is an abundant multitude of many different ones. What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? I think my greatest achievement so far has been my last collection: Radical Call For Love. What’s one thing people would never guess about you? That I am actually a really sweet person. — MarineSerre.com
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NOORISM Unsatisfied with the volume of poorly-
as well as very classic and durable.
made, disposable clothes on offer,
I also source ethical fabrics when I
Noor Zakka launched her stylish
need something besides denim for a
brand of upcycled women’s wear
particular style.
entitled NOORISM in 2015. The brand re-purposes used denim to create new,
How does your geographic location
on-trend looks with an emphasis on
influence your aesthetic? Living in
giving back.
Brooklyn is a constant inspiration from seeing what people wear on the street
How did you become involved in
to collaborations with creative talent.
fashion design? I have always been
Day-to-day life is an inspiration.
interested in making clothes and sewing. When I was little, I wanted to
What’s been your greatest
be a seamstress and when I was in the
professional achievement to date? My
second grade, I saved up my money
biggest professional achievement has
to buy a toy sewing machine. In high
been starting NOORISM and seeing my
school I made clothes for myself that
upcycled denim pieces in stores and
my parents didn’t allow me to buy.
worn by people.
After that, I studied Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology
What’s one thing people would never
in New York City and worked for a few
guess about you? I drape, make all the
companies after I graduated.
patterns, and cut and sew all of my samples. — Noorism.com
What materials do you most like to work with? I enjoy working with denim because it is a very forgiving fabric
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ALOURA LONDON Aloura London is the creation of Rachel O’Mahony
access to some of the world’s most beautiful and
and Emily Hill. The dynamic duo fuse modern evening
innovative traditional and modern architecture that all
wear with elegant embroidery and hand-stitched
act as the main inspiration behind the collections. We
embellishments to offer premium cocktail dresses
consider our design aesthetic to be sleek, feminine and
skillfully created to deliver style and femininity to every
contoured with embellishments, making our garments
woman.
the perfect chic city choice for women going out to party in London or other cities.
How did you become involved in fashion design? Both of us had a passion for fine art while studying at secondary
What’s been your greatest professional achievement to
school, but never initially thought of it as a career option
date? Creating a company from scratch has been both
until the last year of sixth form.
of our biggest achievements to date. From establishing
a business plan, seeking investment and traveling the
We met each other when studying our Art and
Design Foundation at London College of Fashion in
world sourcing fabrics, manufacturers and packaging.
2011. It was here, that we both decided to specialize in
It took two years of blood, sweat and tears to build the
the women’s wear. We often partnered up to experiment
company as we wanted everything to be perfect before
with innovative design techniques and illustrations. The
we launched.
amazingly creative art tutors inspired us to develop our
skills and learn more about women’s wear design.
two months and we are so delighted with all of the
The Aloura brand has been launched now for
positive feedback from our customers and press and have What materials do you most like to work with? For
already started designing the next Aloura collection!
Aloura, we both love working with delicately handstitched embroideries that feature tiny glass beads,
What’s one thing people would never guess about you?
stones and metallic sequins. The overall look of the
Rachel: I’m a natural brunette! — AlouraLondon.co.uk
embellished garments is so strikingly remarkable. We enjoy creating such unique and exclusive pieces, which we feel has now become our signature style.
Luxurious stretch fabrics such as neoprene and
stretch satins are also some of our favorite materials to work with as the fabric molds to the figure and create beautiful, feminine silhouettes. How does your geographical location influence your aesthetic? London is such an inspirational city with
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REBECCA KELLETT London-based designer Rebecca Kellett
challenge of the making, incorporated
pushes the boundaries of ready-to-
with print design as a signature
wear with her eclectic collection of
aesthetic within each collection.
statement-making women’s wear. A graduate of the University for the
How does your geographic location
Creative Arts Rochester, her eye for
influence your aesthetic? It’s extremely
design and creative flair make her one
important to me, living and designing
of fashion’s hottest rising stars.
in London we are surrounded by so many influences from different
How did you become involved in
cultures. In turn, comes different
fashion design? I started designing
religions, social groups which all
quite late. I was always inspired
have a diverse approach to dressing.
by fashion and looked towards my
London is a mixture of grit and wealth
grandma, and how she dressed. She
separated by a couple of tube stops. For
was always so fabulous; always looked
me, I identify with not only one part
amazing. I started to paint when I was
of London. I love the exuberance in
sixteen and became very interested in
Chelsea to the rawness and gritty dark
illustration. It wasn’t until I went to
sides of East and North London.
college, with the aim of studying Fine Art, that the tutors said to me, ‘We
What’s been your greatest professional
think you should try fashion as you are
achievement to date? It would
drawing fashion illustrations without
definitely be in between showcasing
realizing and we think you dress very
my collection at the Saatchi Gallery
differently.’ So it began from then,
or the Houses of Parliament. Both are
when I was eighteen.
incredible locations in their own right historically.
What materials do you most like to work with? I try not to work with
What’s one thing people would never
similar materials season after season as
guess about you? I hate the cold, eat
I prefer the challenge of working with
lots of bread and prefer a cup of tea to
unconventional fabrics to push the
a glass of wine. — RebeccaKellett.com
boundaries of the silhouette and what is considered fabric. It is about the
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PARLOR Descended from a long line of
How do you think your geographic
fashion innovators, Veronica Zaharia
location influences your aesthetic? I am
continues the family legacy with
very fond of our traditional costumes,
Parlor. Based in Romania, her
the handmade embroideries, the colors
modern-yet-feminine aesthetic attracts
and the story behind every pattern.
fans from around the globe.
One of my dearest designs, The Jacket, inspired by the ethnic symbols from
How did you become involved in
the Romanian traditional costume has
fashion design? I was born and raised in
been highly appreciated by buyers all
a family of artists and since childhood I
over the world. I believe Romanian
was guided and educated for a career in
traditional symbols will find their way
the arts. Before I created Parlor in 2010,
into all my collections, whether it will
I was working in the television and
be handmade embroidery or a different
entertainment industry and became
view on an ethnic pattern.
acquainted with Romanian showbiz personalities, stylists and fashion
What’s been your greatest professional
editors, as part of the production teams
achievement to date? Parlor is my
of top television shows in Romania.
greatest achievement. It is a dream
My debut in the fashion world was a
come true. It’s constantly growing and
natural consequence of my education
I am so happy when I realize that the
and previous career. I learned how
brand values have not been altered over
to create patterns from my mother
the years.
and grandfather—a famous tailor in Bucharest in the 1930s.
What’s one thing people would never guess about you? I can do 300 abs in a
What materials do you most like to work with? I love silk fabrics and handmade embroideries.
row. — Parlor.ro
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