MATALAN.CO/UK
nest.co.uk
DUNELONDON.COM
CONTENTS 162
Editor's Letter 8 Allegra Shaw and her timeless brand: Uncle Studios: cover story 12
FASHION Apocalypse Romantique - editorial 22 Dreams Never End - editorial 32 Must Have: tutti i trend di stagione 44 Office Break - editorial 64 In the City - editorial 78 Modernism - editorial 90 BEAUTY Think Pink - editorial 102 Semplicity with fun: the beauty production for this fall/winter - 114 I See Red - editorial 128 ACCESSORIES The Accessories perfect guide for this fall/winter - 140 ART Ballroom - editorial 148 Beyond the Binary - editorial 160 Exhibitions not to be missed this fall winter 173 LIFE Minimalism - editorial 174 Distorted Perception - editorial 184 Real Experiences - editorial 196 EcoLuxury teach us how to solve the humanity problems with sustainable tourism - 208
EDITOR'S LETTER 198
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assword: Dawn. Dawn, of course, understood as a new beginning. We have already experienced, so to speak, the post-pandemic characterised by fear, uncertainty, post-apocalyptic looks and warriors ready to brandish swords. But we have finally eviscerated enough and overcome, or so it seems, this terrible period. So we are ready for a return to normality, which can mean many things. Certainly in fashion there has been a complete turnaround that has brought many wearable looks without too many frills, close to a more sparkling and colourful side to celebrate the newfound serenity. In this issue we therefore take a journey together, also thanks to the editorial teams who participated, starting from this dawn. We therefore talk about everyday life, living in the city, smart working, the relationship with social networks and the relationship with our bodies. We also return to topics that are dear to us, such as climate change, sustainability in fashion, diversity and cultural elevation, and see how tourism could be an all-round answer to most of humanity's problems. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
DUNELONDON.COM
Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, CHIEF EDITOR Marta Forgione m.forgione@latestmagazine.net Emilio Praga, 35 street - 00137 Rome (Italy) CONTRIBUTORS:
WRITERS Marta Forgione
PHOTOGRAPHERS Antonia MacBride, Lucie Hugary Ivan Jos, Mona Morali Lukas Goldschmidt, DorotaGrzegorczyk Pedro Beraldo, Joaquin Burgueño Ed Aked, Omar Macchiavelli Eva Schwank, Victoria Huisman Ansgar Sollman, Marta Mamoń
AGENCIES Le Crime, Premium Models Agency Fifteen Minutes, Tigers management Mega Model Agency, Bigoudi Neva Models, Traffic Models IMM Model Agency, Platform Agency Amsterdam Milk Collective, 7Artist Management Zebedee Talent, Stars Management Identity Models NYC, Openspaceparis Izaio Management, Collectiveinterest
ADVERTISING adv@latestmagazine.net
Rome, Italia 2023 | p.iva 15126391000 ROC registration n. 32682 Biannual Publication by LATEST srls unipersonale in April & October Printed by Facciotti s.n.c price on website latestmagazine.net: print €15 - digital €4
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COTTONTRADERS.COM
Allegra Shaw Allegra is our new cover girl, and she well represents many of the concepts I anticipated at the beginning of the issue (p. 9). Always passionate about fashion, she chose in 2017 to start her own brand with her partner, Shirin Soltani. Uncle Studios started with the idea of creating the perfect t-shirt, sustainably and well-made. As Allegra says: "that feeling of feeling so yourself, when you wear an outfit you really like". Now, Allegra and Shirin have expanded their horizons and create timeless pieces, the must-haves of any self-respecting wardrobe. But Allegra was already a powerful voice on the internet, with almost 1 million subscribers on her lifestyle and fashion YouTube channel. And although she is well acquainted with the ability of social networks to resonate, she is a down-to-earth girl in the truest sense of the word. She promotes contact with real life, outside the Internet. Sport, body care, yoga, meditation, reading, all things that can keep us attached to the real world but, above all, contact with other people. Now let's see what she told us about herself, what she thinks about fashion and sustainability, and her plans for the future.
Photography by Antonia MacBride Makeup, Hair Style Brittany Sinclair
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Total Look Miu Miu
In you we see summed up some of the (best) characteristics of the younger generation. You are interested in the environment and social issues, you are open-minded and down-to-earth. Do you believe that young people are ready to change their future for the better? The younger generation are more vocal than ever about social injustices and climate change and I respect that about them. I think knowledge is the first step and with social media people have greater access and are more aware now more than ever. I think that the next step is to make sure their purchasing decisions and power are in line with their social values. What was your life like before you embarked on this career in fashion, and what plans did you have? I was a student, and I had a few part time jobs. But I’ve never really been a person to plan too much. I’ve always loved fashion and hoped I would get into the industry, but I didn’t have a path carved out for myself. Let's come to your brand, Uncle Studios: can you tell us more about how it all started? Is there someone or something that inspired you in the creation of this brand? Uncle Studios was born on a feeling - the feeling when you put on a good outfit and feel so like yourself. My business partner Shirin Soltani and I always have felt the most ourselves in a white tee. We kept rebuying the same fast fashion brand ones, and thought how hard could it be to make one that actually lasts when it's our most worn and beloved piece in our closets? We naively jumped into the cut and sew world with zero experience in fashion design
or textiles but with a simple goal of making our favorite tee in a fabric that could stand more than 4-5 washes remaining perfect. We naively jumped into the cut and sew world with zero experience in fashion design or textiles but with a simple goal of making our favorite tee in a fabric that could stand more than 4-5 washes remaining perfect. In your opinion, how should brands be more transparent in sharing their production chain? Do you think what has been done so far is acceptable? Are we on the right track or not? I think brands do owe it to their community to be transparent to their community about their practices. I think we’ve made big strides in the right direction and the consumer is smarter than ever. But I think that what’s most important is the volume of product and what brands are pushing their consumers to purchase. Your fan base on social media is very loyal, and growing. We all know by now how important sharing platforms are. How do you relate to them, and to your followers? How do you think it is possible to maintain a (healthy) detachment while getting the best out of the internet? Building a loyal and growing following is important. I prioritize connecting with my followers by actively engaging in conversations, responding to comments and messages, and sharing content that resonates with them. To maintain a healthy detachment while benefiting from the internet, it's crucial to set boundaries and allocate specific times for online engagement. It's also important to go outside and do things outside, offline. Interacting with people in real life and interacting with nature is crucial.
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Speaking of personal care: we want to know everything from your beauty routine to how often you go to the gym! Maintaining a well-rounded personal care routine, for me, includes a great daily skincare regimen, incorporating F45 workouts 2x a week and Pilates or yoga 1-2x a week for fitness, and dedicating time daily to meditation for mental well-being. The last couple things are more of a luxury, but I do monthly facials from a professional esthetician help keep my skin healthy and glowing and my acne under control and I get my nails done once a month! And in your spare time? Do you have any particular hobbies? In my free time, I enjoy a few different hobbies. I love film and love watching movies, often going to the cinema or just watching them in my home. I also have a passion for reading, my goal this year is 12 books. Recently, I’ve taken up acting classes, which is a new challenge and something I’ve really been enjoying. What are the future plans for Uncle Studios? Is there already something in the pipeline? I'm really excited for the future of Uncle Studios, but the main goal is always happy and healthy. I want the team and the business to be both as we grow in a sustainable way. We have a few really fun activations in the works for the end of 2023 and summer of 2024. I really love putting things out IRL since we live online the majority of the year. It's always special to connect face to face with the people who've been supporting us for years so expect lots of fun events.
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Apocalypse
Romantique The idea of the apocalypse has finally come to an end. Now it is time to move on. Forward as warriors, yes, but of the normal life we had before. Without terrible thoughts of the future. Without armour, machine guns or torn Mad Max-style clothes. We watch the sunset without fear of the future day. Without fear of sociality. We can look at it again like we used to, in a romantic way. Thinking about the future, hoping to get the job we studied so hard for, and getting that date with that person we like so much. It all sounds so trivial to say, but rediscovered normality is something that warms the soul and makes one sleep peacefully. So welcome back even to boredom, once in a while.
Photography Lucie Hugary at Le Crime Art Direction Polina Selina Fashion Editor, Style Giorgia Ferrari Style assistance Jessie Silver & Nastya Bezsonova Model Mary Duleu c/o Premium Models Makeup Jeanne Salord Hair Style Barthelemy Joris Set design Gilles Garnier Light design Just Meissonier Gaffer Alice Bencteux Electricians Clément Raynaud, Aristote Pham-Ba,Philomène Le Palud Key Grip Titouan Thomas Grip Loan Foulon
Dress 1 Juliette Berrod Dress 2 Filipe Augusto FW23 (Sheer Beige Dress) Black Knee-High Boots Yume Yume
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Outerwear, Top Tribal Hotel Cream Puffer Skirt Dawei FW23 Neo Trainer Lacoste FW23 Opposite: Green Flower Pleated Top R.L.E Worker White Cordon Jeans Sweet Pants FW23/24 Red Panties Martial Denim Flower Strass Choc Wedge Sandals Roger Vivier
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Dress Ruohan (Pink With Pearl Long Gloves Thomasine Bag Vingt-Deux Necklace 1 Helena Thulin Ring Helena Thulin Necklace 2 Vingt-Deux Opposite: Denim dress DIESEL FW23 Yellow Leather Crop Gloves Thomasine Eyewear Burberry
Shirt Louise Marcaud FW23 Corset Kylie Rose Carroll Shorts Transe Paris Collar, Sleeves Tribal Hotel Bag Kylie Rose Carroll Opposite: Reworked Levi’s Lace-Up Denim Jacket Paris Re Made Velvet Corset, Belt Sehnsucht Atelier Red Velvet Top Worn As Skirt Le Fil Silk Scarf Innangelo Wool-Felt Hat Stetson
Dress Victoria/Tomas Couture FW23 White Cycle Shorts Dimension Cachée Dagger White Elastic Knee-High Boots Empty Behaviour Grey Ruched Gloves Thomasine Single Pink Earring Vann Opposite: Silver Top: Iro FW23 Balaclava Maje FW23/24 Oenothera Rubrum Hair Clips Helena Thulin
dreams never end Photography Ivan Jos Art Direction, Style Hauke Jakob Stark Model Paula c/o Agency Fifteen Minutes Assistance Anton Adam Emmerich Hair Style, Makeup Vanessa Cisullo
And so, after a well-discovered serenity, we can go back to dreaming, let our minds run wild and watch a new dawn rise. Let us talk about hope, that thing so fundamental to human beings. The one thing that keeps us connected to life, even in terrible times like the ones we have experienced. Because even though it is true that many artists have found fame and glory by telling of their misfortunes, this does not mean that it applies to everyone. Being relaxed allows you to put your best foot forward, and dreams really do need a lot of dedication to become achievable. So now onwards and upwards, there are no more excuses for anyone.
Top Prada Bag Eva Blut Trousers Haider Ackermann
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Here & Opposite: Jacket Prada Shoes Cedoublé
Turtleneck Prada Trousers Raf Simons Bag Eva Blut
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Jacket Veronique Branquinho Knit Our Legacy Opposite: Blouse Our Legacy Top Rick Owens Trousers Haider Shoes Cedoublé
Coat Veronique Branquinho Opposite: Earrings Raf Simons Top Jil Sander Turtleneck Raf Simons Trousers Haider Ackermann
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Full Look Balenciaga Opposite: Cardigan Prada Trousers Raf Simons Bag Eva Blut
must have
Here we are back to our good and dear column dedicated to the trends of this coming autumn-winter but, above all, to our view on what will be the must-have pieces to have in your wardrobe at the start of the season. Many, during the last edition of the dedicated fashion weeks, were delighted to see the return of wearable, everyday fashion. This is not to say that nothing extravagant or quite sensual was seen, quite the contrary. But let's just say that the aura of post-apocalypticism that came with the pandemic has (finally?) been lost, and everything is starting to look more normal and less theatrical. In short, if, for example, we have seen metallic fabrics go crazy, let us imagine them more for appearing at a party or an event with special shoes, rather than corsets to go and fight a hypothetical enemy in the end of the world. So we return to a 'reassuring' normality, with the hope that we have learnt something at least in terms of environmental sustainability and respect for others (including animals). Speaking of colours, on the other hand, we have seen a great deal of total looks. Bright red is definitely THE must-have for this autumn/winter and will accompany us to the next social events, but don't be fooled by the many proposals in total grey. Don't just imagine office or daytime looks, let alone home outfits. Grey can be very elegant and very appropriate for the season. If you then combine it with a few hints of silver, it really won't lack anything. Next to the total looks we see, of course, Barbie pink literally going crazy. We all know why, don't we? But even if you haven't seen the film, even if you don't like the idea, even if you don't like the colour, know that this year you will literally have to find something that suits you. Maybe a mini-accessory, but you'll have to treat yourself. The bourgeois bon ton style is back in a big way, wearable and comfortable alongside various men's looks with thin ties. The wearability and comfort remains post-pandemic, but becomes more stylish. We see it in long, wide jackets covered with mega epaulettes, capes or witty jumpers matched, however, with precious skirts. Flowers are omnipresent especially in weaves and appliqués or on a dark background. At the neck we will have big bows, huge carry bags (even double ones) and really but really short shorts. F/W 2023 - '24
BLANKET JACKETS 4.
1. Let's start at the beginning, calmly. Let's start with the bed! Who wouldn't want to carry it around in the early morning chaos? We were talking about comfort, and here we are really in the climax with these huge jackets like blankets. Cosy, warm, feeling protected and relaxed comes naturally. But not too much, because as we were saying, the post-pandemic home look is finally behind us. So we go with a relaxed but stylish look, with transparent bodysuit by Silvia Tcherassi, loose jeans by Aje, mega mesh bag by Alaia and Balenciaga sunglasses, in true Gotham City style.
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7. 1. The Row ivory francine coat seen on modaoperandi.com 2. Alaia black belted travel coat seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Aje wide leg jeans seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Alaia black xl bag seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Silvia Tcherassi backless bodysuit seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Bottega Veneta technical fishnet trainer seen on modaoperandi.com 7. Balenciaga sunglasses seen on modaoperandi.com
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BON TON 2.
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It's a different story when the bon ton woman leaves the house. Comfort is certainly not among her first thoughts, yet in this case we have made an effort and managed to create a truly wearable look, all signed by Khaite. The shoes in men's styles are part of the big trends for accessories, and so are the maxi bags (not so to speak, some are really huge). Leather trousers and an ivory jumper create a really elegant mix, while the shell-shaped earrings by Julietta are the super chic detail that is impossible not to notice!
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1. Stella Mccartney FW 2023 / '24 fashion show 2. Julietta off white spetses earrings seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Black slim leather Khaite trousers seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Khaite ivory mavis jacquard jumper seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Brown Khaite loafer seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Large white leather Khaite tote seen on modaoperandi.com Opposite: Alexander McQueen FW 2023 / '24 fashion show
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TOTAL GREY
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1. Among the colour-based total looks going crazy this autumn winter is grey. Often seen as a colour for home wear, it is the ultimate in elegance if we choose it in the right fabrics. We have mixed it with silver details to make it even more precious. Here too the look is very wearable, thanks above all to the rain boots by Moncler. See-through top, deconstructed trousers by St. Agni, long coat with fringes and belt, silver bag by Bottega Veneta and Loewe glasses. The tie is another must-have trend of the season, we chose it by Brunello Cucinelli.
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7. Larsson & Jennings, watch €162 seen at farfetch.com
1. Etro runway SS20 show ph. Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2. Simone Rocha cotton dressFashion seen at Show modaoperandi.com 1. Brandon Maxwell FW 2023 / '24 3. Roxanne gold plated bracelets at seen modaoperandi.com 2. StAssoulin Agni trousers deconstructed theatwaist in a wool blend seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Miu Miu velvet flats seen atfringed modaoperandi.com 3. Jonathan Simkhai dressing gown coat seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Kayu4. Onie Wicker Top-Handle at modaoperandi.com Silver Loewe sunglassesBag seenseen on modaoperandi.com 6. Prada5.Flower Embellished Raso Mini Topseen Handle Bag seen at modaoperandi.com Ginette grey Moncler rain boots on modaoperandi.com Opposite: River Island dress 6. Bottega Veneta silver soft leather bag seen on modaoperandi.com 7. Brunello Cucinelli Ramage tie with print seen on farfetch.com 8. Grey wool jumper with Khaite cutouts seen on modaoperandi.com Opposite: St Agni grey alpaca blend jumper seen on modaoperandi.com p.119 p.71 p.15 p.77 p.49
ON MY SKIN 1.
There were countless proposals of superlative long leather jackets. In short, if the focus was to be all there, they could do no better. We chose to create a complete look anyway, to make it really wearable. Everything we have combined recalls must-have pieces of the season. Sleep dresses with lace, preferably black. And this long dress by Sir is just right for us. Shoes with slim heels, like these fantastic boots by Bottega Veneta. The heart-shaped bags, like this one by Alaia. The globular shapes on earrings, like these by Lie Studio, but in general placed on all accessories (bags and shoes included).
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1. Magda Butrym black leather coat seen on modaoperandi.com 2. Bottega Veneta black soft vinyl knee-high boot seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Sir the label black cut out dress seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Safiyaa trench coat seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Lie Studio 18ct gold-plated earrings seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Alaia heart clutch bag seen on modaoperandi.com Opposite: Alexander McQueen FW 2023 / '24 fashion show p.59 p.75 p.51
ARTISTIC PRINTS 1. Clothes with artistic prints have been seen far and wide. Paintings are coming out of museums and walking with us, reminding us of the crucial importance of art linked to human happiness, without any buts or buts. We created a combination with another maxi trend of the season, mega shoulder pads. The choice fell on an asymmetrical dress by Zimmermann and a black jacket by Khaite. To complete this unforgettable look, gold camperos heeled boots, also by Khaite, large gold earrings by Sylvia Toledano, and a small woven leather tote by Bottega Veneta.
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1. Zimmermann FW 2023 / '24 Runway show 2. Zimmermann Strapless Linen Silk Midi Dress seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Khaite classic knee gold metallic leather boots seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Khaite black malek jacket seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Bottega Veneta black small bag seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Szylvia Toledano gold swan earrings seen on modaoperandi.com Opposite: Paco Rabanne printed maxi dress seen on modaoperandi.com
Larsson & Jennings, watch €162 seen at farfetch.com
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FLOREAL IN WINTER
1. Floral? For winter? Pure avant-garde! We all remember this phrase from The Devil Wears Prada, don't we? But here, winter flowers take on a decidedly interesting appearance. Prints aside (often on a dark base), we find them applied to dresses as with Magda Butrym. Or, better still, the clothes themselves take on shapes reminiscent of petals and buds, as in Erdem. We chose a Butrym top and Giambattista Valli skirt combo that is impossible not to covet. Loeffner Randall ballet flats convince even the most sceptical on the subject, and are another must-have for the season.
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1. Erdem pink textured satin asymmetric midi dress seen on modaoperandi.com 2. Brown Bottega Veneta mini bag seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Magda Butrym cropped top with floral details seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Giambattista Valli tulle maxi skirt with floral embroidery seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Loeffler Randall soft brown ballet pumps seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Sea white cropped blazer seen on modaoperandi.com Opposite: Magda Butrym maxi dress with floral details seen on modaoperandi.com
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NECK BOWS 4
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This look is really for those who like to be the centre of attention, and we absolutely love it the way it is. Because being the centre of attention every moment of the day may be too much, but who wouldn't want to be it once in a while? Front row day in fashion week? Here we have put together at least three of the season's best trends: big bows at the neck, very but very short shorts and over-the-knee boots. Stella McCartney's faux fur coat is so beautiful that you'll wish the day would never end. Kimeze glasses with transparent frames, and you'll dive into the 90s in no time at all.
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1. Etro FW 2023 / '24 Runway show 2. Stella McCartney ivory fur free wool blend coat seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Khaite ivory otk leather boots seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Lastframe ribbed knit shoulder bag seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Victoria Beckham Sheer Crepe Cutout Blouse seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Bottega Veneta white mini shoulder bag with-not seen on modaoperandi.com 7. SIEDRÉS Exclusive Fil Coupé Boxer Shorts seen on modaoperandi.com Opposite: Safiyaa gold puff sleeve pussybow blouse seen on modaoperandi.com
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DENIM 4.
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Colour blocking aside, total looks were a big must on the catwalks, including denim. We particularly liked the two proposals from Zimmermann and Stella McCartney. We combined our denim total look with another big trend of the season, namely skirts over trousers. The choice fell on these jeans with a built-in skirt by Coperni. Above, for indoor moments, we chose a corset top by Magda Butrym. Shirt jacket by Agolde, ankle boots by Isabel Marant, Jacquemus cap and a super desirable bag by Balenciaga.
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1. Stella McCartney denim and twill jeans seen on modaoperandi.com 2. Magda Butrym medium wash strapless denim corset top seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Coperni Layered Mid-Rise Straight-Leg Jeans seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Jacquemus blue denim hat seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Agolde dark wash shirt jacket seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Isabel Marant blue denim Miyako boots seen on modaoperandi.com 7. Balenciaga blue denim bag seen on modaoperandi.com Opposite: Zimmermann dark wash luminosity denim maxi skirt seen on modaoperandi.com p.59 p.77 p.71 p.15
PRECIOUS SKIRTS WITH SWEATER 1. To confirm that we have emerged from the post-pandemic depression we find many humorous pieces. Some almost childlike, in a return to the primal joy of life. We saw lots of super-coloured jumpers with cute prints on the catwalk. The novelty is to combine them with precious skirts, creating true fashionista looks. We chose an amazing silver skirt by Des Phemmes, and a colourful banded jumper by Ulla Johnson. We paired it with futuristic shaped trainers by...of course Balenciaga, and a heart-shaped bag by Chanel. Vram's white gold ring certainly won't go unnoticed.
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1. Siedres multi patterned jumper seen on modaoperandi.com 2. Ulla Johnson cotton blend jumper seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Des Phemmes silver embroidered georgette midi skirt seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Balenciaga 3XL trainers seen on modaoperandi.com 5. VRAM 18k white gold superband ring seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Moda Archive x rebag blue Chanel heart bag seen on modaoperandi.com
THINK PINK, IN METAL 1. As we have already said, it is undeniable: Barbie pink is omnipresent in every collection and in every micro collection. At least on accessories you will have to give in, believe us. We, on the other hand, have decided to think big and propose an evening total look for real dolls, combining this popular colour with another big trend of the season, metallic fabrics. Here, then, is the Versace sheath dress with Stine Goya coat, the Amina Muaddi sandals with the Mach & Mach handbag, and to finish, the long, luminous earrings by Paco Rabanne, of course.
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1. Johanna Ortiz chemical attraction minidress 2. Amina Muaddi satin wedge sandals embellished with pink crystals seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Versace metallic leather mini dress Dua Lipa seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Mach Mach pink shoulder bag with double glitter bow seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Stine Goya pink single-breasted coat seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Paco Rabanne long pink pixel aluminium earrings seen on modaoperandi.com
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RED
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1. What could be better than a nice bright red total look to confirm a positive outlook on the future? And if we're talking about a sparkling look then even more so. We chose a mini dress with crystal tights, by Alex Perry. We paired it with a platform sandal by Cult Gaia and a shiny leather handbag by Jacquemus. Precious earrings by Silvia Furmanovich and a heart and diamond ring by Aisha Baker set the scene for an unforgettable evening. Getting to your event or club without catching a cold? The new biker jacket by Alexander McQueen is as desirable as it gets!
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1. Red nappa maxi dress by Proenza Schouler seen on modaoperandi.com 2. Red platform sandals Cult Gaia seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Alex Perry stretch jersey mini dress with crystals and red gloves seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Alex Perry stretch jersey tights with red crystals seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Jacquemus red bouclé long bag seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Alexander McQueen biker jacket seen on farfetch.com 7. Oval earrings with red hand-painted flower Silvia Furmanovich seen on modaoperandi.com 8. Red diamond ring by Aisha Baker Opposite: Safiyaa Naira Draped dress with contrasting details seen on modaoperandi.com
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Art Direction Leonie Sosnizki Photography, Post Production Mona Morali Models Romée van Haaften c/o Platform Agency Amsterdam & Anna Sennhenn Style Leonie Sosnizki & Walaa E. Hair Style, Makeup Brizan Robinson
Office Break Smart working is something that, although the pandemic has passed, has not left us. But has it really helped us? Because what looks all rosy often hides dangerous implications. In terms of expenditure, it certainly was and is convenient for certain sectors. That is, for offices and companies that have dependent employees. And for those employees, who obviously spend less on traveling to work and eating out. But many, many sectors have been squeezed by this radical change. Transport, take-away food, even clothing may be affected by the reduced purchases made by those who no longer have to go out to work. But it is not just about this. The mental health of those who stay indoors all the time in front of a screen is affected. We are made to be social animals, and without that sociality we become strange, problematic, gruff, suspicious and gullible. Life has to be lived live. Together with people.
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Cardigan Chanel Cruise Black Corset 2021 Pleated green Skirt Prada FW Esaú2015 Yori Shoes Dior 2001
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Here & Opposite: Shirt with newspaper print Dior (John Galliano era) Skirt with flower print Prada FW 2022/23 Furry boots Prada FW 2017
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Here & Opposite: Sunglasses Gucci T-Shirt Vivienne Westwood Maxi Skirt Prada Spring 2000 Shoes Prada Donna Pumps 2019
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Cardigan, Shirt JanaBallerinas Wieland Chanel Velvet black skirt YvesClub Saint Laurent Trousers Collectors Shoes Celine Opposite: Blazer On Top Blazer Underneath Blanche Trousers Brachmann
Black Tank Top with golden metallic chains Givenchy Skirt: Prada FW 2004 Opposite: Jacket Rick Owens Shoes Balenciaga
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Here & Opposite: Bag Fendi FW 2022 Skirt Prada FW 2015 Socks Gucci Black kitten heels Miu Miu
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Beige silk blouse, Black velvet skirt, Leather bag all Gucci Jewelry on left hand La Manso Opposite: Cardigan Chanel Velvet black skirt Yves Saint Laurent
IN THE CITY And so we take back the city. We live it, share it with others, explore and discover it. We choose the clothes we like best, with comfortable shoes for walking. We rediscover our habits and the joy of a quick trip downtown. We go out. We walk, we stop at that café that makes the best cappuccino. We enter that shop of old books, its elderly owner has many stories to tell. We stop. We breathe in the early autumn air full of news for the new year. There is a new photo exhibition, we go inside to have a look. Everything that seems so normal, even banal, can be an opportunity for a smile and to unplug for a moment. And all those worries we carry around, let's leave them at home.
Photography Lukas Goldschmidt Style Olivier Mohrińge Model Diana Li c/o Mega Model Agency Hair Style, Makeup Sabrina Wolf c/o Bigoudi using Westmann Atelier, Charlotte Tilbury & Kevin Murphy
Turtleneck Body, Leggins Wolford Blazer Arket Bag Ferragamo Mules Balenciaga
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Earrings Mugler X H&M Coat Dress, Boots Bottega Veneta Opposite: Sunglasses Prada Bracelet Pilgrim Coat Ivy & Oak
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Sunglasses Balenciaga Jacket Wood Wood Jeans Our Legacy Bag Jérôme Dreyfuss Shoes Ferragamo Opposite: Earrings, Sunglasses Balenciaga Turtleneck Body Wolford Skirt Prada Boots Bottega Veneta
Top Axel Arigato Opposite: Jewellery Pilgrim Top, Pants Etro Bag, Mules Ferragamo
Here & Opposite: Sunglasses Burberry Dress, Bag, Shoes Dior
Suit Arket Shoes Steve Madden Opposite: Necklace Pilgrim Dress Bottega Veneta
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MODERNISM Photography DorotaGrzegorczyk Style KatarzynaMydlak Model Myroslava Vavrovska c/o Neva Models Makeup, Hair Style KingaWarakomska Light Assistance Norbert Stefanski
Like any self-respecting happy ending, there is a need for a little celebration. So green light to full colour like yellow or red, even in winter, and a bit of sparkle and eccentricity. And let's go out, finally, and have some fun. Soundtrack? Definitely this one: "That’s all they really want Some fun When the working day is done Girls – they want to have fun Oh girls just want to have fun" -Cindy Lauper
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Suit Robert Kupisz Cape Krystian Szymczak Earrings Tous Bag Vivienne Westwood
Here & Opposite: Suit Robert Kupisz Shoes Steve Madden Bag Vivienne Westwood Earrings Tous
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Dress Magdalena Nowak Shoes Jimmy Choo Opposite: Dress Krystian Szymczak
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Here & Opposite: Blazer Paul Smith Trousers NA-KD Shoes Steve Madden
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Dress Krystian Szymczak Blazer H&M Studio Shoes Steve Madden Opposite: Blazer Brogger Tousers RE Design Earrings Tous Shoes Neous
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Suit Robert Kupisz Chain RE Design Earrings Tous Shoes Nike Opposite: Dress All Saints Bag Vivienne Westwood Shoes Steve Madden Earrings Tous
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think
PINK
What if the top trend of the moment, Barbie pink, which is now all the rage in every sphere for obvious reasons, is not for us? Well, it is not obligatory to think of this colour associated with extremely feminine things. We could, instead, use it in contrast with other strong colours such as black, or interpret it in a more aggressive look. As in this case. In a cross between unbridled punk and a return to the scenes of Jem & the Holograms, this crazy makeup will certainly not make you go unnoticed. Or, if you prefer simpler makeup, you could choose to use this colour for your hair!
Creative Direction Dani Rull Photography Pedro Beraldo Hair Style, Makeup Susana Sanchez & Dani Rull For Dior Beauty Style Dani Davilla Model Ale Lizarra c/o Traffic Models Digital Art Haut Touch
Opposite: Vest Zadig & Voltaire | Earring Ylla Concept
Silk Blouse Maison Margiela Briefs BriefsWolford Wolfort Beret Utowo Boots Gianvito Rossi at Vestiaire Collective
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Top H&M Studio | Earring Ylla Concept | Opposite: Vest Zadig & Voltaire | Earring Ylla Concept
Jacket Dolce & Gabanna
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Opposite: Blazer Gucci | Earring Ylla Concept p.109
Sweater Chanel | Jacket Paco Rabanne
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Opposite: Vest Burberry | Jacket Saint Laurent
Beauty PRODUCTS for this fall/winter? The answer is
Semplicity with Fun As we have seen for clothing and accessories, beauty trends also follow more or less certain main strands, starting in the fashion weeks. For this autumn/winter on the catwalks there was a great return to normality, which brought with it a good deal of extremely natural make-up. Simplicity is essential if we are talking about busy days, so skin care is of great importance in order to be able to afford such nude looks. At the same time, the disappearance of the fear of the pandemic has also generated a great return of the desire to have fun and get noticed. Rightly so. Because after a week of hard work, we all want to go out and have a little bit of fun, don't we?
Creative Direction Dani Rull Photograhy Joaquin Burgueño Style Jou Martan Model Valèria K. c/o Traffic Models Makeup, Hair Style Dani Rull For Dior Beauty Makeup & Hair Assistance María Falcón Production Pop House Special Thanks The Mint Company
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We have seen how bold red and metallic fabrics were present in almost every collection, and here they also appear in bright red lip makeup and metallic details. Let's now look together at some buying tips and discover some new brands on the rise thanks to our column.
LATEST BEAUTY l mondo della cosmetica è ultimamente protagonista di un cambiamento molto lontano dall’essere
Foto by Daria Shevtsova
Smart Mirror - HiMirror
Bag Jacquemus p.114 p.59 p.97 p.133
LATEST BEAUTY
Jacket Jacquemus
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Silk Shawl Lanvin
LATEST BEAUTY
MaterNatura: BIO BEAUTY ROUTINE 7 days a week DAILY USE Let's start at the beginning and then... shower and wash your hair. Those who live in the city and walk in traffic know how much more often hair gets dirty. That's why more frequent washings are necessary, which can dehydrate it. This white tea shampoo and sweetclover conditioner set for frequent washing 7 days a week from MaterNatura comes to our aid. With this set made in Italy we moisturise, strengthen and protect the hair from external attacks, without weighing it down. But above all without using ingredients that are harmful to us and the environment. MaterNatura is in fact a brand that uses only organic, certified, natural, organic and not tested on animals products. Moreover, the packaging is 100% recyclable. A plus? Quick results guaranteed from the very first use.
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Silk Shawl Jou Martan
LATEST BEAUTY
ROWSE: All-day hydrating serum with niacinamide After showering, and before applying any makeup product, let's take care of our skin. Raw, clean, without artifice. This is the ROWSE brand and with a motto like that, you want to try their products right away. This daily moisturising gel serum contains niacinamide, vegan hyaluronic acid and an antioxidant oil complex of soothing and skin repairing plant extracts such as prickly pear, cottonseed and jojoba. It is perfect for skin that suffers daily stresses such as smog and fatigue. It is guaranteed to deeply moisturise, smooth fine lines, create a strong protective barrier and even out the complexion. What more could you want? Try it without make-up! It is 100% plant-based, vegan and suitable for all skin types. Mind you, as a natural product it should always be shaken before use.
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Shirt Ganni
LATEST BEAUTY
VIOLETTE_FR: Bisou Balm Do you like the idea of red lips, but perhaps during the day it seems a little too much? Not with this fantastic product by VIOLETTE_FR, a hybrid between balm and lipstick which, as its name suggests, will make you want to kiss your lips. The slippery texture with a blurry, matt effect makes your lips look incredibly natural even in the brightest colours. And, to our personal taste, it really is perfect with nude make-up. The brand's standards are very high, which is hardly surprising given Violette's decades of experience as a makeup artist around the world. The ingredients are safe, vegan and not tested on animals. The packaging is all sustainable and the commitment is to be as innovative as possible.
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LATEST BEAUTY
Iuva Cosmetics: make-up removing butter with pomace extracts After a long day (and perhaps evening), don't think that skincare is over. Quite the contrary. What you choose to do to cleanse it before lying down in your bed will be of paramount importance. We recommend this make-up removing and cleansing butter that can even remove waterproof makeup, by Iuva Cosmetics. Simply apply it to your face, massage, rinse and voila. Your skin will stay moisturised without being greasy, and it is suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin. Natural ingredients, without allergens, dyes, parabens, petrolatum and silicones. The brand's special feature comes from its main ingredient, i.e. the Barbera grape marc that comes from their farm, a Unesco heritage site. In this way, waste is reused, using the ethical principles of the circular economy.
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Fur Sweater Balenciaga
LATEST BEAUTY
MID/NIGHT 00.00: night cream After cleansing, and before bedtime, this rich cream will restore everything your skin needs while you rest. Its natural active ingredients are hyper-contracted and therefore immediately effective: activated charcoal, aloe vera extract and green tea extract. They promote collagen generation, accelerate wound healing, stimulate the growth of new cells and improve circulation. The high percentage of hyaluronic acid moisturises deep down, reducing wrinkles and dry skin. The mid/night 00.00 brand was born from the idea that there are too many beauty products and not enough clarity in their functions. Better to have a routine of just a few very concentrated products, natural in their ingredients and free of anything you do not want for your skin.
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I would say that by now there is no longer any doubt, Red is really THE trend colour for this fall-winter. Such a bold, difficult, flashy colour. But don't we deserve, perhaps, a little passion? After more than two pandemic years, in which 'seeing red' could mean nothing good, are we not entitled to flaunt it and desecrate it? This colour, so powerful, has always been important from art to fashion, and in all shades of life. And we need power now, to get back to life on the right foot. So yes to total looks in all its forms, including make-up and hair colours.
I See Red Photographer Ed Aked Makeup Chantal Amari using NARS Cosmetics, KORFF Cosmetics & AUGUSTINUS BADER Hair Style Daniel Moura using BUMBLE & BUMBLE Style Matthew Duffy Talents Lynn, Sahar & Cara c/o IMM Model Agency Jen & Olivia c/o Milk Collective
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Headscarf Matthew Duffy Opposite: Dress Simone Rocha
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Opposite: Top Matthew Duffy
Top Dolce & Gabbana
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Sweater Matthew Duffy Opposite: Tee Matthew Duffy
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BETWEEN RETURNING TO NORMALITY AND PARTY DESIRE
F/W 2024 accessories Accessories, like clothes, also followed maxi trends for this autumn winter 2023/'24. The return to normality led to a return to classic shapes. In particular, bon ton luxury prevailed. The logo in view, combined with the revisiting of various best sellers, shows us how brands want to play it safe with what has already worked well in the past. There were many men's looks in which, shoes aside, thin ties in 'Le Iene' style were omnipresent. Bright colours in full looks such as red and yellow, not usually present in winter collections, were a must to seal the post-pandemic cheerfulness. We can also use them in contrast, with coloured tights on duller looks. Sheer as in Miu Miu or more opaque, as in Gucci or Burberry. Impossible not to buy something in Barbie pink this year, we know why. And if you don't feel like a pink coat, then go for the accessories. Shoes, bags, jewellery, belts, sunglasses, the choice is vast and practically every brand has done its bit. Another real must-have of the season, ties aside? The gloves!
Alessandra Rich heart earrings | Aisha Baker diamond ring | Alaia pump slingback and heart bag | seen at Modaoperandi
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LATEST aCCESSORIes We have always been known to have trouble putting only what is necessary in our bags. Mary Poppins is a film from '64 and there was already this scene where she took the whole house out of her briefcase. Can you see yourselves in it? Don't worry, it's already a few seasons that bags are getting bigger and bigger to accommodate everyone and everything we want to carry, but since this autumn-winter I think the problem has been solved, so to speak. The XL series were really big. Some soft tote proposals were literally bigger than a suitcase, like for Coach, Jil Sander or Balmain. Don't like the idea? The double bag has now become the norm, you can opt for this solution. Are you more for the classic? Well, this year there's especially been a return to the most famous shapes of bags from the various brands, such as doctor bags, so you're sure to be pleased. At least if you like logos in full view. As for colours, red was the big trend here too. Soft to carry under the arm as seen in Ferragamo, classic stiff hand bags as in Marni and Valentino, or over the shoulder as in Gucci and Bottega Veneta, to name but a few. Pink is obviously omnipresent here too, but there was also a lot of black, denim, floral and metallic on the catwalk, as in Molly Goddarg, Jacquemus and of course Paco Rabanne. There were circular (Oscar de la Renta) or heart-shaped (Alaïa) proposals. Watchword? It has always been practicality.
Here: Oscar de la Renta billiard silver bag | Jonathan Simkhai silver clutch | Alaia heart bag | Bottega Veneta large Hop bag all seen at Modaoperandi | Balenciaga show FW 2023 Opposite: Alexander McQueen show FW 2023
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LATEST aCCESSORIes
We have always been known to have trouble putting only what is necessary in our bags. Mary Poppins is a film from '64 and there was already this scene where she took the whole house out of her briefcase. Can you see yourselves in it? Don't worry, it's already a few seasons that bags are getting bigger and bigger to accommodate everyone and everything we want to carry, but since this autumn-winter I think the problem has been solved, so to speak. The XL series were really big. Some soft tote proposals were literally bigger than a suitcase, like for Coach, Jil Sander or Balmain. Don't like the idea? The double bag has now become the norm, you can opt for this solution. Are you more for the classic? Well, this year there's especially been a return to the most famous shapes of bags from the various brands, such as doctor bags, so you're sure to be pleased. At least if you like logos in full view. As for colours, red was the big trend here too. Soft to carry under the arm as seen in Ferragamo, classic stiff hand bags as in Marni and Valentino, or over the shoulder as in Gucci and Bottega Veneta, to name but a few. Pink is obviously omnipresent here too, but there was also a lot of black, denim, floral and metallic on the catwalk, as in Molly Goddarg, Jacquemus and of course Paco Rabanne. There were circular (Oscar de la Renta) or heart-shaped (Alaïa) proposals. Watchword? It has always been practicality.
Here: Attico red mules | Roger Vivier bow slingback pumps and bow boots | Chloè denim clogs | Alaia wedge mesh boots Opposite: Amina Muaddi denim over the knee boots - all seen at Modaoperandi
LATEST aCCESSORIes Ties had already entered through the back door in the autumn-winter season 2022 - '23, and now they fully confirmed their presence on the scene, Valentino being the absolute spokesman on the catwalk. A subtle presence in terms of form, if possible. Gloves are the other must-have detail in your wardrobe this autumn, and there are many proposals for all tastes. Very long as seen at Jil Sander, very short to just cover the fingers, with laces at the elbow as seen at Givenchy, in lace, or in woven leather as seen at Bottega Veneta, with a micro clutch bag incorporated by Prada, you really can't shrug off this accessory. Balaclavas are now commonplace and we have seen them again on many catwalks. Jewellery comes into its own this season and, as with handbags and over-the-knee boots, it gets huge. Big earrings (Schiaparelli is the spokesperson), big necklaces, or worn one on top of the other as in the Etro and Chanel shows. Circular shapes are all the rage but we also saw lots of flowers, as at Alexander McQueen. Scarves also became 'big' and became shawls that covered almost as much as a coat. We have seen them on many catwalks and they are definitely to be considered another must-have of the season. There are many proposals for more bon ton or more fashionable looks, such as tartan by Etro or maxi stripes by Gabriela Hearst. Last but not least, belts. they too, like everything else, have grown this year and we have seen them become almost magnificent corsets. Our favourites? In black leather by Max Mara.
Here: Erdem ruched long gloves | The Row balaclava | Lie Studio 18k gold plated earrings | Deepa Gurnani Palesa earring | Cyril yellow gold quartz necklace - all seen at Modaoperandi Opposite: Alexander McQueen FW 2023 show
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Creative Direction & Style Morgan Dildar Photography Omar Macchiavelli Hair Style Kevin D’amrosi Makeup Serena Polh Video Francesco Brembati Production Jet Set Production Style Assistance Giulio Di Gregorio & Veneranda Lamberti Hair Assistance Giuseppe Di Guglielmo Makeup Assistance Eleonora Bianucci, Carlo Mauro, Paola Barbera Models: Legendary Pioneer Italian Mother Bfujiko Ninja, Cesare Elle, Chuck Juicy Couture, Concetta Windowsen, Gian Gorgeous Gucci, Jasmine Elle, Italian Mother Kenji Juicy Couture, Kimora Balenciaga, Letizia Fiorucci, Moon Windowsen, Morgan Gorgeous Gucci, Sasha Balenciaga, Shy Ninja, T’ai 007, Trysha Juicy Couture
BALLROOM "CAN I SEE, JUST FOR ME…" is just the beginning of a sense of freedom. The editorial wants to give value and light to some of the representatives of the Italian Ballroom scene, through their own category and their own essence. Feminine, elegance, lines, stretch, pose and VOGUE to music in such a way as to imitate the characteristic poses struck by a model on a catwalk. The Ballroom Scene is an African/American and Latino underground LGBTQIA+ subculture that originated in New York City in the late 70’s . It is a multitude of categories in which people may participate trying to win trophies and get the statement in the scene. Most participants in Ballroom belong to groups known as “Houses”, where chosen families of friends form relationships and communities separate from their families of origin, from which they may be estranged, for the simple fact of wanting to be themselves.
From top: Latex Dress Alessandro Vigilante Latex Stocking FBLD Earring Dea Rail Blazer Dhruv Kapoor Brief, Garter Belt and Sonora boots LEONARDOVALENTINI Glasses Huma Eyewear
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Total Look Vivetta Bracelets Emanuele Bicocchi Opposite: Blazer, Dress Dhruv Kapoor Top Balestra Latex Stocking FBLD Belt DIESEL Shoes Marsell and Vigano1919 stick
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Dress FERRAGAMO Collant Wolford Latex Stocking FBLD Earrings Dea Rail Ring Francesca Castiglioni Opposite: backstage
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From left: Fur MARIODICE Boots Malone Souliers Head Piece, Collar Bonfilio Hats Collant Wolford Dress Balestra Boots Sonora StickVigano1919
Top, Skirt, Boots DIESEL Latex Corset FBLD Opposite: Total Look LEONARDOVALENTINI Earrings Dea Rail Boots ADI STUDIOS
From left: Lara Chamandi dress Latex Collant FBLD, Head Piece Bonfilio Hats Belt & Garter Belt LEONARDOVALENTINI , Boots Giuseppe Zanotti. Fur Florania, Gold Mask Agglomerati, Gloves Canaku, Belt LEONARDOVALENTINI. Underwear No21xWolford, Skirt _Dennj_ , Earring Dea Rail. Leather Shirt DIESEL, Latex Bra FBLD, Shorts Martina Favuzzi Boots Casadei, Collant No Dress. From down: Red Cape Florania, Underwear Maison Close, Stockings Wolford, Shoes FERRAGAMO. Black Cape, Corset _Dennj_ , Latex Thong FBLD, Jewels Dea Rail, Shoes Casadei.
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Beyond the Binary We celebrate beauty as we desire it here: inclusive, fun, liberating. Where you are allowed to truly express yourself. You can experiment and go wild, show the world your true creative expression. Blurring the boundaries between male and female form, mixing male and female energies. Each image creates a unique story. We move from our self-constructed binary, which is harming so many people around the world, to a world of imagination and freedom, until gender no longer exists. And then everyone will have the right to live as they want and be as eccentric as they want. Each image here celebrates a unique story of our two energies and beauty beyond the binary.
Photography (she|her) Eva Schwank c/o 7AM Photography Assistance (she|her) Ashley Ross Style (she|her) Kelly Peters Style Assistance (she|her) Johnny Duarte Models DaJohn (they|them) c/o Zebedee Talent Emma Heedles (she|her|they|them) Atha (they|them) c/o Stars Management Nathan (he|him) c/o Stars Management Hair Style (he|him) Kien Hoang Hair Style Assistance Plamena Todorova & Diana Garcia Hair Style Braids (she|her) Deanna Reyes Makeup (she|her) Audra Langley Set Design (she|her) Pakayla Rae Biehn
Heart Necklace - Nikta Eliza Jacob Bodysuit - Norma Kamali Earrings - Area
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Dress Jean Paul Gaultier X Yproject Opposite: Hat Emilio Pucci Top Nikta Eliza Jacob
Top Cult Gaia Skirt Christopher John Rogers
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Dresses Camelia Skikos Opposite: Dress Camelia Skikos
Top Nikta Eliza Jacob Pants Camelia Skikos
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Fencing Mask Leon Paul Top Loewe Tights Falke Shoes Adidas Opposite: Top Collina Strada Denim A.W.A.K.E Mode Shoes Gucci
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MATALAN.CO/UK
LATEST art 'Edvard Munch: Magic of the North' at the Berlinische Galerie (Berlin, Germany) 15/9/2023 - 22/1/2024.
Edvard Munch 'Red and White', © MUNCH, Oslo Halvor Bjørngård
The Norwegian painter, best known for his masterpiece painting 'The Scream', exerted a great influence on the Berlin scene at the turn of the century and it was there that he painted his best-known picture. Here, then, is an exhibition opening at the city's Berlinische Galerie where we can discover what his true relationship with it was, through a series of his paintings, prints and photographs. Munch arrived in Berlin after his Parisian period, and amidst various scandals took part in a long series of exhibitions - around sixty. Thus the more avant-garde artists were able to get to know him while the traditionalists cried scandal, inadvertently increasing his fame out of all proportion.. David Hockney: Drawing from Life’ at National Portrait Gallery (London) 2/11/2023 - 21/1/2024.
David Hockney's portrait of Harry Styles / National Portrait Gallery
The National Portrait Gallery in London welcomes back (or rather welcome back, as the exhibition had begun in 2020 only to be postponed due to the pandemic) the iconic British painter David Hockney. With his 'Drawing from Life' he will show us, from November to January, some of his portraits of famous and not-so-famous people, including a new painting on Harry Styles that many are eagerly awaiting. Thirty-three new paintings, as well as pencil drawings from the 1970s, when Hockney was in Paris, and others from the 1980s when he did a self-portrait every day for two months. Hockney is, in art, a true gay icon who already in the 1960s was not intimidated and, in the painting Domestic Scene, Los Angeles portrayed two men together as one washes the other's back. ‘Anish Kapoor: Untrue Unreal’ at Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi (Florence, Italy) 7/10/2023 - 4/2/2024
Anish Kapoor, Svayambhu, 2007 Photo: Dave Morgan. © Anish Kapoor
Whether you like modern art or not, the Anglo-Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor is considered one of today's most influential living artists. Best known for his large-scale sculptures, the centrepiece of the exhibition will be one of these, specially created to fit harmoniously into the courtyard of the illustrious Palazzo Strozzi. Beyond this, each interior gallery will be an immersive experiential journey, featuring all of Kapoor's 'best' such as his sinuous mirrored sculptures, the famous 'Vantablack' and his crimson installations. Anish Kapoor uses materials such as granite, limestone, marble, wood and plaster to create objects with enigmatic, geometric or biomorphic shapes, covered with colourful pigments, a clear reference to Indian colour imagery. 'Louise Bourgeois: Persistent Antagonism' at the Belvedere Palace (Vienna, Austria) 22/9/2023 - 28/1/2024.
L. Bourgeois 'Confrérie' Credit: The Easton Foundation / Bildrecht, Vienna 2023
The image that jumps out at everyone when you say Louise Bourgeois' name is her giant bronze spiders. Few people remember that the spider was a celebration of the concept of motherhood. Beyond her famous sculptures and installations, the celebrated artist was also an extraordinary painter. Her surrealist paintings from the 1940s will enrich the galleries of the Belvedere Palace in Vienna on its 300th anniversary, together with her sculptures, installations and drawings. This will be the first time these paintings will be exhibited and it will also be Bourgeois' first major exhibition in Vienna for decades. Long queues are expected at the entrance, so better make a reservation. p.175 p.195
MINIMALISM Photography Victoria Huisman Style Neridah Twisto Model Ami Suzuki c/o Identity Models NYC Makeup Nana Hiramatsu using MAC Cosmetics Hair Style Kazuto Shimomura using Bumble and Bumble
Minimalism in fashion, but what does it really mean? Beyond an aesthetic factor, because having a minimalist look is something you have to like first and foremost, there is really a different lifestyle choice behind it. Having few but good pieces. This is something that now seems out of the question, because the general idea is that to be accepted you must have as many outfits as possible. About shoes, bags, coats. The more we have, the more we feel we are worth. And so clearly either you are rich, or you fall into fast fashion. But who said that having a lot means being a lot? How much 'richer' can you be if you respect the planet and buy consciously? Just one coat, but one that you know exactly where it comes from and how it was made. And also psychologically, even if it feels like the opposite, we feel better when we have a tidy wardrobe with only pieces we really like in it. Clothes that we care about and take care of.
Here & Opposite: Bomber Jacket Celine T-Shirt, Sneakers The Row Underwear Intimissimi Socks Comme Si
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Here & Opposite: Dress, Shoes Saint Laurent Earrings, Ring Agmes
Coat The Row Bracelet Agmes Opposite: Shoes Saint Laurent
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Boots Loewe Opposite: Blazer Armarium Bra vintage Saint Laurent Underwear Intimissimi
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Here & Opposite: Full Look Chanel
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distorted perception
Reality, hidden behind social media, has become distorted. We no longer have the real perception of things, we are losing ourselves behind fake smiles and ostentation. Beauty ideals are completely distorted behind disruptive makeup and contouring. Especially for the very young people this situation is dangerous because it generates a desire to appear, in everyday life, in an impossible way. It is not even a desire, but a belief that you must always be perfect. And we are not just talking about appearance, life and experience are also distorted. We are shown families where no one is ever tired or nervous or in a bad mood, perfect homes that look like furniture shops. Just think about it for a moment, we all know that this is just a facade. No family is perfect, no face is perfect, no body and no life. Let us start following more real people, and show some side of us that seems imperfect. We start to live more relaxed and enjoy what we have. In most cases, what we have is more than enough to be happy.
Photography Ansgar Sollman c/o Openspaceparis Style Marcella Verweyen HMU Andrea Young Using for Hair Oribe & for Makeup Typology Paris & Pat McGrath Model Ran Zhang c/o Tigers Management
Full Look Versace
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Top Dolce & Gabbana Trouser Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Choker Swarovski Opposite: Dress & Other Stories Shoes Eckhaus Latta
Shirt & Other Stories Jeans Maison Margiela Opposite: Full Look Versace
Here & Opposite: Denim Shirt Closed
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Here & Opposite: Dress Acne Studios Boots Dorothee Schumacher
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Dress Alberta Ferretti Overknees Versace Opposite: Jacket, Skirt Pia Lea Shoes Dr. Martens
REAL EXPERIENCES Let us go beyond the digital, the social, the web and deal with real experiences. Let us touch, experience and build memories. Let us go beyond the concept of simple digital and digitised analogue photography, and play with what we can do with it, let us experiment with the real object which, in this case, is clothes. We start with the patterns and textures of fabrics and accessories. And finally, let's play with prints, tear them up, put them back together.
Photography Marta Mamoń Style Laura Caufapé Model Yulia Musieichuk c/o Izaio Management Makeup Ana Buvinic c/o Collectiveinterest
Dress Florentina Leitner
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Here & Opposite: Bodysuit Victoria Beckham Coat Florentina Leitner Shoes By Far Ring Timeless Pearly
Here & Opposite: Skirt Materiel Belts Vanzetti Shoes By Far
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Here & Opposite: Coat Staud Socks And Sunglasses Florentina Leitner Shoes Neous
Coat Aknvas Shoes Proenza Schouler Earrings Dinari Jewels Opposite: Earrings Cult Gaia
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Dress Florentina Leitner
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ECOLUXURY':
sustainable tourism
LATEST PARADISE
We conclude this chapter of the magazine with our beloved column on eco-sustainable travel. The shadow of the Covid has disappeared and, with it finally, the fear of traveling. Exploring our planet is without a doubt the most beautiful thing you can do in life, and certainly the most enriching. In fact, traveling is considered the only thing in the world where you spend but come back richer than when you left. In the soul of course, not in the wallet, but just after the pandemic that forced us indoors we now know how important life experiences are. So let us introduce you to this incredible project by the name of Ecoluxury. Ecoluxury is the only brand in the world that certifies the sustainability of luxury tourist facilities. And these, if approved, are placed on a search list within the site. In this list, with facilities from all over the world, you can find out what kind of holiday you are interested in, what kind of experiences you could have in that place and thanks to that facility. The project is about promoting high-level sustainable tourism, in line with the 17 Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations 2030 Agenda (SDGs). The goals are aimed at solving humanity's major problems such as poverty, hunger, gender inequality, lack of education, climate change etc. by 2030. The tourism business can pull the right strings and, if well directed, could really make a difference. The 79 facilities included in Ecoluxury (16 of which are Italian) all offer unique experiences and incredible standards of accommodation. To find the perfect holiday for you on the website there are various filters that break them down by location, type of facility, motivation and travel requirements, and the type of experience they can offer. This makes the search really simple and intuitive, and no time is wasted scrolling. p.211
Best
AMANWANA RESORT – Moyo Island (Indonesia)
Already 160 projects around the world have been initiated and/or concluded, thanks to Ecoloxury, contributing to UN goals. Some of these include the reef reconstruction on Moyo Island in Indonesia, thanks to the team at the Amanwana resort. The resort is located east of Bali, and is the only one on the island, making the stay an oasis of privacy and exclusivity. It is by no means a trip made to just sit on the beach and sunbathe though, because you would miss out on an incredible amount of nature activities that can be done. Snorkelling, diving courses, water sports such as windsurfing and kayaking, mini cruises to visit other nearby islands, and walks in the pristine jungle where you can see caves, waterfalls and meet local animals.
Offers
courtesy of remotelands.com
BELMOND GOVERNOR’S RESIDENCE – Yangon (Myanmar)
The Belmond Governor's Residence covers five of the 17 goals set by the United Nations. Its motto is 'think global, act local'. It is located in Yangon in Myanmar, in a fantastic colonial mansion from the 1920s. The hotel is committed to protecting the environment, trying to have as little impact on the environment as possible, increase energy efficiency and combat food waste. Among the activities offered by the hotel is a visit to the famous local food markets, where you can discover all the ingredients for the country's recipes, and then cook them with the hotel's chef on your return. Or cultural tours to visit the National Museum, the Botahtaung Pagodas at sunrise and discover Burmese astrology. p.213
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ARGOS RESORT – Uchisar (Türkiye) The Argos resort has even become a case study for many architecture and tourism faculties around the world. We are in Cappadocia in Uchisar, where entire areas with caves, tunnels and ruins that are more than 2000 years old have been restored, creating a place that really lets you imagine what the ancient quarter was like. The resort has grown amidst this historical fabric and is now a place of incredible magic with restaurants, terraces, gardens, vineyards, a wellness centre and a jaw-dropping underground tunnel. The seven structures were carved out of ancient dwellings carved into the rock. We are talking about 51 rooms and suites, some of which have a private pool. The restoration of a 1500-year-old monastery has also resulted in a hall that now hosts cultural events such as concerts and symposia.
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WILDERNESS BIRATE ECO-LODGE – Rwanda (Africa) Let us now talk about Wilderness Birate, Rwanda's first eco-lodge with 43 hectares in the Volcanoes National Park area. The 6 villas with all amenities generate minimal environmental impact. It has as many as 7 ongoing objectives and fantastic activities to do during the stay. Reforestation is one of them, and out of the 20000 trees that have already been planted, it is possible to pine one yourself, as a guest of the lodge. The hope is that by recreating the natural habitat, the various species of animals that inhabited it will also return. And speaking of animals, it is possible to have a unique experience with various treks to see mountain gorillas and golden monkeys. As the gorillas are endangered, the protection project aims to increase the number of specimens that are present today. p.215
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