Western tien shan by Henri Leveque

Western Tien-Shan

by V.N. Popov

Original Title Попов В.Н. ЗАПАДНЫЙ ТЯНЬ-ШАНЬ

Москва, «Физкультура и спорт», 1978.

release 2015 Translated by Henri Lévêque

Table of Contents General description of the Western region of Tien-Shan Mountains................................................... 4 The Talas Ala-Too Range..................................................................................................................... 9 The Chatkal Range............................................................................................................................. 21 The south-western part of the range of Chatkal................................................................................. 37 The Pskem Range...............................................................................................................................43 The Maydantal Range.........................................................................................................................54 The Ugam Range and western part of the Talas Ala-Too...................................................................62 The Sandalash Range......................................................................................................................... 75 The crest of Kokcu............................................................................................................................. 78 Mountain ranges of Sargardon and Kumbel.......................................................................................82 Angren Plateau, Ahangaran................................................................................................................87 Bibliography.......................................................................................................................................91

General description of the Western region of Tien-Shan Mountains Maps 50 000 th: k42-057-4, k42-057-3 to 4, and k42-069-2 4 k42-057-4, k42-070-1 to 3 k42-071-1 to 4; 100,000 th: k42-058 to k42-060, k42-069 to k42-072, k42-080 to k42-084, k42-093 to k42095, k42-105 to k42-107; 200,000 th: k42-17,18,22,23,24,29; 500 000th: k42-2 and k42-4; 1000 000th: k42 The Western Tien-Shan Mountains includes sub-ranges distributed on the present territory of Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. These are the main sub-chains of Talas Ala-Too, Pskem, Sandalash, Maydantal, Chatkal and Ugam. In turn, the Chatkal range separates into two groups: Kuramin and Kumbel-Sargardon, and Pskem range separates into the Koksu group and from the group of Ugam, the mountains of Korzhantau. Orographic scheme of Talas Ala-Too range mainly separates the basins of two major rivers: the Talas on north and Chirchik to the southwest. It is a narrow rocky ridge with a latitudinal extension. From the south eastern slopes of the Talas Mountains, a powerful range of spurs is separated by the the south-west. It is the Chatkal. This last subchain is equally the separation of Chirchik River basin, and the basin under the same name, the Chatkal River. This river originates in the southeast of the Chatkal mountains slopes. At the southwestern edge of the Chatkal ridge stands the high plateau of Angren or Ahangaran, also dominated south by the crest of Kuramin (border of Tajikistan). The orientation of the latter is similar to the southwestern part of the range of Chatkal. From the Talas Ala-Too and almost parallel to the range of Chatkal, is also expanding to the southwest several mountains in order: the mountains of Sandalash, and Maydantal and the peaks of Pskem and Ugam. Their slopes have many small rivers that supply water to the main artery of the Chatkal river, and other main rivers of the WesternTien-Shan like Pskem River (both tributaries of Chirchik). The Chatkal, is the largest tributary of the River Chirchik, it starts exactly at the junction of the Talas Ala-Too (Mountains) and the Chatkal range, through the ancient glacial valley of the upper reaches of Kara Kuldja. Taking further right downstream like Sandalash, the wide waters of the river expands to flow, and then left, the river receives the tributary river Ters and then passes through a deep gorge to the village of Burchmulla where it pours its waters into the Charvak reservoir that gives rise to Chirchik river. The second component of the Chirchik River is the Pskem. It begins in the glaciers and eternal snows of the Talas Ala-Too. In its origins its water comes from the two rivers, Maydantal and Oygaing. After their merger, Pskem flows through a narrow gorge through many rapids. The Charvak reservoir thus merges the Chatkal and Pskem to form the Chirchik an impetuous tributary of the Syr Darya (the main river in Central Asia of Uzbekistan, formerly upstream Naryn river in Kyrgyzstan and Ferghana basin). The Ugam river is strictly the largest tributary of the River Chirchik (once took its name downstream of Charvak reservoir). The Ugam flows just below Lake Charvak. The greater part of its course is located in Kazakhstan. Its mouth is located in Uzbekistan. Powered by various sources and streams, the Ugam descent between high slopes between the Ugam and Korzhantau.

Kirovskoïe

Kirghizstan Pic Manas 4482

SA N

Ps ke m

ka l C ha t

Ko ks uy ka l

Te rc

aBu ra

Besh-Kul

-To r

hy m y

ba sh

Réserve naturelle De Sary-Chelek

Arkit

Kirghizstan

ta -A ha

C ha t

AL Chabato ATO O D U

D AL AS H

U ga m ha rv ak

oï

k ele

h -C ary

Kashka-Suu

Aflatun

Terek-Saï Col de Chapchama

Karavan Ala-Buka

Ak ha ng

Orographic scheme of Western Tien-Shan

Tashkomur

sa m Su

ar an

Angren

Sumsar

u su raKa

a -s an

s Ka

DO AL TK A CH

Ta dy lg

Ka raKu ld

L KA AT H C

s dy Pa

La c

Kar a-To kou

3287 Réserve naturelle du Chatkal

UT ALA S

AL TK A CH

Chatkal

yrd

Kar a-Te r

ALA -TO

k la Bu y-

rn Ku

ly ay

EL MB

R SA

Ouzbékistan

k bu Ala

Chyrchyk

atk Ch

Burchmulla

Y CU

Djardy-suu

hik irtc Tch

K KO

m o ru a-K Kar

Charvak

M KE PS

u -s Ak

M KE PS

U NTA ZHA R KO

h las da n Sa

-G ra Ka

AM UG

M KE PS

ld Ta

Ih na ch -s ay

Col de Kara-Bura

Keless

DU TAL AS

Ka nd a

O yg a

nt al M ay da

m ke Ps

Ka r

Pic Kumyshtag 4251

g in ga Oy

ALA -TO O

s -Ta sh Be

Pic 4301

ay -s uk nd Tu

Phoguelevka

Sha vursa

a ysm a-K Kar

Pic Sayramskiy 4238 U A NT A H AM Z UG KOR

AL NT A YD MA

ay tars Tas

Sa yra msu u

Lenguar

in g

Aksu

Urmaral

tal an yd a M

Aksu

Talas

Leninopoliïe

ys hta g

Kek-Aral

Ku m

Kazakhstan

Kluysheska

TA LA S

Kok-Saï Dja b

Chimkent

Talas

Chiim-Tash

gly

Ka r

Sh ilib ili

Dja

Kazan-saï

Naryn

The River Ahangaran (Angren) is also formed in the rivers that begin on the southern side of the range of Chatkal. Its middle and upper reaches form incisions and deep canyons through the Angren plateau. Here the river has a number of right bank tributaries, also in their upper part formed narrow and deep canyons. Upstream of torrents have a more peaceful way, before emptying into the Ahangaran mostly in impressive waterfalls. On the southeast slopes of the Chatkal ridge, are the sources of many rivers that descend in the Ferghana Valley. These rivers do not often reach the Syr Darya, as they are mainly used for irrigation. The most important of these rivers are Kara-suu, Koson and Gava. The Western TienShan is rich in lakes. The best known of these is Lake Sary-Chelek. Often formed by rock obstructions in the valley, for instance of moraine origin, the lakes are located in the valleys of the major tributaries rivers in the region. The various terrain of western Tien-Shan has generated strong differences in climate, depending on elevation, topography and exposure (south or north). In the Talas Valley climate is cool and dry. That of Pskem Valley is soft and warm, with plenty of rainfall events: the mountains are protected from the cold north winds, but do not prevent the passage of warm, moist air from the west. The climate of the Chatkal Valley is more severe, while the southeast slopes of the Chatkal ridge, facing the Ferghana Valley, grow in abundance of sunflowers, tobacco, corn and fruit trees. The hottest month in western Tien-Shan is July. The temperature can often reach 40째C, while the monthly average temperature is only 20째C. The absolute minimum reaches -30째C in winter, and even in some places there was -40째C. The season out of the winter frost in most of the Western Tien-Shan lasts less than 200 days. Precipitation in winter are greater than 200 mm and the level can reach 1200 mm in the Pskem range. In spring rainfall (up to 65 mm) come especially in March and April, and there is the smallest amount in July. The ground is covered with snow from November to March. The amount of water in rivers depends on the thickness of the snow cover in the valleys. Indeed the latter rivers are a drain on the valley floor. Very often, some of these rivers are only a temporary evacuation during snowmelt and rain, and dry in other periods. Already the first explorers of the mountains of western Tien-Shan had noticed a contrast in vertical distribution of plant and animal life, as in any mountain area, but here more pronounced. In the foothills and middle parts of the Talas valley, there is a steppe zone, and at least in its upper part an altitude steppe. On the slopes, this steppe of Talas Ala-Too is composed of grasslands dotted with shrubs such as juniper. Among the fauna found Siberian ibex, marmots, ptarmigan, sheep (Argali sheep or Marco Polo) and Ular. In the southeast slopes of the range Chatkal one first found herbaceous steppe and alpine and subalpine meadows are used for grazing (jailoo). Under the altitude steppe and alpine meadows, there are upstairs deciduous trees, including wild walnut trees scattered in the various river valleys and mountainsides. We also find in the Chatkal forests of walnut also wild apple trees, plum trees, Tien-Shan spruce, fir and juniper. The fauna of mountain forests is very rich. There are wild boars, porcupines, bears, weasels, marmots, forest dormice and thousands of birds. In bogs and mud flats of Chatkal among its many tributaries there are groves of birch, poplar, willow thickets of wild rose, honeysuckle, buckthorn and black currant. In the valleys there are fescue for forage (grass hay) and in the plains and low-lying plateaus, sagebrush steppe (a variety of absinthe). The steppes of the north side consists of timothy (used for fodder), creeping couch grass, wild prangosa (variety of amarinthe also present in the Alps) present under the sub-alpine and alpine meadows. The Chatkal Valley is a vast pastoral area of great economic importance. It is vital for the development of livestock in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. In the mountainous region of the Akhangaran Valley, mid-altitude forests have many species of trees such as maple, hawthorn, and the side valleys of apple, plum and cherry plum rowan. Scientists believe that the

valley from the slopes of the mountain were once entirely covered with woody vegetation, which gradually disappeared due to human exploitation. Now the felling of trees and shrubs is totally prohibited. In intra-mountain valleys of Chatkal rivers, and Koksu Pskem, we often encounter dense groves of tala, birch, poplar, Tamaris shrubs, honeysuckle, wild roses, buckthorn, wild vines and blackcurrants. Downstream, at the confluence of Chatkal and Pskem, there grows a lot of fruit trees: apple, apricot, plum, pear. The mountain slopes are covered with groves of walnut, maple and poplar. On the western territory of Tien-Shan, three major nature reserves have been established: the AksuDzhabagly, the Sary-Chelek and Chatkal reserve. The isolation of western Tien-Shan, especially on the Upper Chirchik, was still a reality there a century ago. We had very little information about the area. The area, located off of the great silkroad caravan routes, was still regarded as â&#x20AC;&#x153;the middle of nowhereâ&#x20AC;?, both by the conquerors and by travelers. So it is no surprise that there is little reference to the Western Tien-Shan by ancient geographers, who however have written much on the cities of the Ferghana region and the Talas Valley. As it was able to establish the main occupation of the ancient inhabitants of western Tien-Shan was hunting. In particular, this has been confirmed by numerous rock paintings of ancient Central Asia, often representing various animals. There are these archaeological evidence of ancient human activities on the territory of Aksu-Djabagly and Chatkal reserve, near the village of Hodjikent on the slopes of the peak of the Great Chimgan. The first major human colonies were on the foothills of the mountain. Thus, in ancient times, there was the great city of Isfidzhab and another town called Sayram (district of Chimkent). One could also unearth ancient mining in the valleys of the Akhangaran that archaeologists date from the tenth to twelfth centuries. Around the same time, a large city was developed in the Talas Valley, whose ruins are still visible. A remarkable architectural monument of the thirteenth century, the mausoleum of Shakh-Fazil is located in Kasan-say valley. The scientific study of mountains to the west of the Tien-Shan began in the late nineteenth century, after the annexation of Turkestan to the Russian Empire. Russian scientist who first entered the upper Chatkal, is a zoologist and zoo-geographer N.A. Severtsov. In 1866 he crossed the Talas AlaToo through the pass Kara-Bura and explored the upper part of the Chatkal Valley. In 1874, geologist and geographer I.V. Mushketov made a journey through Central Asia, during which he crossed the Korzhantau mountains and the valleys of Chatkal and Pskem, finally back in the city of Talas. During this journey he explored the southern slopes of the range of Chatkal and the heights of the plateau of Angren. Five years later, another geologist, D.L. Ivanov discovered glaciers in Pskem Valley. Among the western Tien-Shan explorers before the October Revolution, it is also mentioned B.A. Fedchenko, V.I. Lipskogo and O.A. Shkapskogo. But at that time the trips and expeditions to the west of the Tien-Shan, as in other mountainous regions of Central Asia were not moved by the personal tastes and desires, but by the will of the Russian Empire to establish its territorial domination by the knowledge of the country. Most studies in these scientific exploration expeditions were short and fleeting, too often limited to superficial observations. After the October Revolution, scientific studies in western Tien-Shan has completely changed. In 1920, State University of Turkestan (modern Tashkent) makes a major task of scientific study of the area. From the early years of the Soviet power began a systematic census in the mountains by

botanists, zoologists, geologists and hydrologists. At that time, for example, have been put in place special expeditions on the territory of Aksu-Djabagly and Sary-Chelek to assess natural resources, mineral and hydrological in the region, especially on the southern slopes of the mountains Chatkal in the upstream valleys of Chirchik, the Akhangaran and the foothills of the Talas Ala-Too. The mountains of western Tien-Shan are also socio-economic human territories. On the slopes is practiced for centuries sheep grazing, and in the alluvial plains thousands of varieties are grown, including fruit crops. The development of numerous agricultural facilities was a reality during the Soviet era. In the medical field also was built health care facilities to enjoy the thermal properties of some of its sources. In the field of energy a comprehensive plan of hydraulic stations, artificial lakes was built. For example, the reservoir Charvak and Kosonsoy are still the testimony of that past energy development. Agricultural researchers were attracted by the climate and fertile alluvial soil, in places like a cornucopia. Then the tourists came to find rest in the mountains, far from the bustle of cities, as the hectic activity of Tashkent. Over time, mountain hikers appeared and recreational and sports attendance took off in the late 1950s. Particulary in the vicinity of Chimgan in Uzbekistan was created the first camping. In the 70s, several campgrounds existed: to the "South" (Tashkent region), to "Koksarai" (Namangan), to "Chimgan" and "Yangyabad" (Tashkent region). The Western Tien-Shan is located on the present territory of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, and has multiple and practicles paths and road access to get through. The only current obstacle since the independence of the former republics of Central Asia is to obtain a visa to access easily cross borders, the most convenient being the one with multiple entries in the territory of each country. For this, legislation evolves it is better to learn from embassy services of each of these countries. Some roads, tracks and trails start from the northern side valleys of Talas Ala-Too. For example, by the road along the Kara-Bura river that runs through the pass of the same name and leads to the Chatkal Valley, one reaches many trailheads to the various valleys of tributaries. Similar road leads from the Chatkal valley to the Ferghana Valley by the pass of Chapchama, also with many trails to the tributaries of the river Kasan-say. The road and the valleys of the various tributaries of the Kazan-say, all descend in the Ferghana Valley. A good road runs through the valley of Angren rising Kamchik Pass to also go down in the Ferghana Valley. There are several entries in the Forest Nature Reserve of Chatkal mountains, especially near the confluence of Pskem and Chatkal and since on the road to Kara-Bura pass. From there, dirt roads leading to the central part of Pskem and Chatkal valleys. The Ugam is accessible to vehicles across the river of the same name in the valley to its middle reaches, where through the mountains at the foot of the mountains Korzhantau goes the dirt track of Kirkkiz pass. There are also roads leading to the area of the Aksu-Djabagly nature reserve from the most western part of the Talas Ala-Too. These roads are frequently used to transport supplies either by shepherds or by technical personnel such as geologists and meteorologists. With the prior approval of the drivers it is always possible to get to the desired location.

The Talas Ala-Too Range Cartography: maps 50 000th: K42-070-1 to 3 K42-071-1 to 4; 100 000th: K42-058 Talas valley, K42-059, K42-060, main ridge K42-061, K42-062, K42-070, K42-071, K42-072; 200 000th: K4217, K42-18, K43-13 The basin of the Talas river is bounded to the north by the ridges of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too forming border with Kazakhstan and south by those of the Talas Ala-Too. The river is formed by the merger of Uch-Koshoy and Karakol rivers. From this confluence, the Talas River stretches almost over 100 km, it has given its name to the Talas city established on its left bank. Talas valley sometimes reaches 15 km wide. All along the valley, the river receives the important flow of left tributaries, as Kolba, Besh-Tash, Urmaral, Kumyshtag and Kara-Bura. Inter-mountain basins in the mountains of Talas are often narrow, with tormented relief forming on the range some disconnected islands. The fragmentation of the range is particularly visible where the course of the river turns to the north in the valley, along the western end of the range of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too. The Talas Ala-Too then lost altitude in the vast plains of Kazakhstan before reaching the Chuy River, which is one of its tributaries. At the western end of the range (Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan-Uzbekistan border) three rivers take their sources on the northern slope of the Talas Ala-Too, Ak-say, the Kok-say and Kourkoureu (sometimes called Kyurkyure-suu), all are right tributaries of the river Teruc, which then takes the name of Assa (from the outskirts of the city of Djambul). The Talas Ala-Too separates Assa and Talas river basins (north) from that of the Chirchik River (south). Its western extreme basins are shared between Assy and Arys rivers. This is the highest crest of the region at the average height of 3700-3800 m. Sometimes it exceeds 4000 m and the highest point is reached at 4482 m on Peak Manas. The region of Talas Ala-Too takes a typical alpine aspect of stony, narrow and vertical reliefs, jagged peaks, covered with snow and glaciers in places with steep slopes (up to 60Â° -70Â°). Northern foothills of the mountain ridge that descend into the Talas Valley (usually meridionaly) have at first glance a typical alpine aspect, but approaching the Talas valley they take milder forms with slopes largely grassed, broken by a dense network of short gullies, shallow, but very steep. The top of the crest of the Talas Ala-Too is characterized by powerful rocky outcrops, often forming extensive scree. Above 3500 m mountain basins and circuses are relatively flat, surrounded by rocky walls, with a background filled with detritus, often large scree. In the high valleys of the north side of the Talas Ala-Too there is most glaciers. It is in this part close to the main peak in the heart of side valleys, that glaciers are well developed. In the basin of Talas and Assa rivers there are 281 registered glaciers, two thirds of them are of reasonable size, but many others were sometimes of very small dimensions. Only 8 glaciers stretching over a length of more than 3 km and the length of 164 of these glaciers is less than 1 km away.

Kara-bura et Kirovskoye

Amanbaevo Oktyabrskoye

Kazakhstan

Kirghizstan

Kek-say

Sh ilb ilisa y

aTo r Ku ra m

Col de Karabura

m ys -K ra Ka ak

lmysh

sh dala San

Col Ashuu-Tor

Orographic scheme of Talas Ala-Too - part 1

Po st un -B ul

ak Ch akm

Korumto r

Col Korum-Tor

Col Kychyk-Kurama

To r

mak -s

Col Chakmak

Ay u-

lets

Col Taya

Col Takmak-Saldy

Col Muz-Bel Col Cha k

Cha kma k

Co lP iaty -Ko

Kug and y Dje ty-T or

-P

ra Kar a-b u

Col

Pic Bakaïr Choku 4455m

us tlik

Co ld eS ag yz ga n

Shilbili-say

Cho n-K yzy l-Be Suul u-B l

y Kug and

Ouzbékistan

ak aïr

ok -Ta sh

sh uu -A

Kurusk -Kol

Co lK

Ak-Tashly Co lA

NF Co lM ilic eS ov Tiu iét z -A iqu sh e uu

Co lD

kair

ng ai yg

1 tlikDus Col y ur-sa Shav

y r-sa avu Sh

Co lK a Co raga lO s yg h ain g Co lK ara kyr

Taïty

lak

uiz

uto Ash Col

Chin g

C Col ol Are Pan n ora a my i

u -su hka Kas k-i i l t us lD Co

Sa gy zg

d yin

Co l2 7 3 0 81 17

Co l Ba

nta yda Ma

lsky

Co l

ïr ka

M Col r to u h As

anta a yd

Pic Manas 4484m

Col Kok-Kya

yl-Bel Col Kyz

yk ab Ar

Co lT iuz

Ba ry Ky

u uk-B Kuy

l Co

ai ks Ko

y -sa jon uD d l Co dy un em -C h u l y Su el -B ay M e ld Co

Pic Akcyam 4027m

h as ryt

-s ka sh Ka

i sa Ak

n ha -K ap h -C sh Ata

Kar a-b

Kurk ureu

ur a

Bakaïr

Ta ldy -B u la k

Evguenievka

Col Kurama-Tor ou Ak-Tash tkal Cha

Kara-bura et Kirovskoye

Tala s

Talas

ht a

Leninopolje

ula k

Ka rag

Ur ma ra l

ïly Pic Kumyshtag Karaga 4251m

oïn a

Djeld y-su u

Col Chiim-Tash

Col Kara-Kuldja

Orographic scheme of Talas Ala-Too - part 2

re Te

kt o r

ra ga

Ka r ka

Aks

ldja

Tu yu

Kar a-K u

Chaba to

tkal Cha

tor

o at

k u la

ma ys -K

b ha lC Co

i nb Yz

ra Ka

Col Kurama-Tor ou Ak-Tash

Col Terek

Ke n

Beshkel y

Col Kychyk-Kurama

Kan dab aïto r

sh mTa

ta g

Ch ii

Ku my sh

Charaly

Col de Karabura

Ku ra m a-

To r

Po st u

nBu l

y-B Ta ld

ap Kaïn

h as -T sh Be

Kar a- b u ra

Ku m ys

Ko nu r-D iub

Yz i na

kh ma t

The first route we describe is through valleys and passes of the western edge of the Talas Ala-Too from the village of Leninopolye, from which flows the river Urmaral. Its source is located in the eastern part of this range border. The dirt road from Leninpolye goes south in the mountains for over 30 km, through a forest village at the confluence of the Urmaral and Karagoina (right tributary) and the dirt road ends 5-6 km above in the Urmaral Valley. Here begins the path, climbing the rocks on the left bank, and through many deep ravines. Then you have to take a steep escarpment to the winding mouth of the river Chiimtash, a left tributary of the River Urmaral. At the confluence is a picturesque birch grove, where you can stop for a break. The confluence of Urmaral and Chiim-Tash is located about 16 km from the starting point of the trail. The birch grove at an altitude of about 1770 m forms a thick ribbon. Here are the information on the transition from the upper ridge of the Talas Ala-Too by following the course of the tributary Chiim-Tash. On the climb, the trail turns to the left (in the direction of the climb, 1800m) to stay in the ChiimTash Valley. The valley widens gradually over 15 kilometers as the trail reaches upstream. And a more open area can be seen on the side ridges more lowered, towards Chiim-Tash pass (3575, 1B) yet far enough away ( more than 10km). At the junction of Chiim-Tash headwaters, the trail turns to the southeast, taking the direction of the right bank of torrents of the mountain circus. These rivers descending almost parallel to the main peak of the Talas Ala-Too. the trail reaches a small hill where a lake hase been formed at foothills, on the northern slope. It takes around a lake with a diameter of 30-40 m by often snowcovered slopes, immediately below the cliffs. The trail then climbs a moraine, which clearly winds on the scree towards another peak in the foothills. From there, the path that leads to the pass is well marked, although the pass crossing is not yet visible. At the foot of the pass there are two ways for the ascent. The first by a steep slope directly above the lake and through the circus to the Far East with the passage of an intermediate pass. The second path is longer by nearly 3 km, but it is less dangerous. This is also the one on which peoples, generally shepherds, lead their sheeps onto the Chatkal Valley. Hikers often prefer to go by the shortest route to the Peak Chiim-Tash (3575 m, 1B). On that traditional transhumance trail during all these years, we do not see a single blade of grass, as sheep have gone through. The pass crossing is arid with particularly steep slopes (up to 60Â°), often covered with snow. At lower slopes it becomes soften and gradually grassy. On the slopes of the valley, there are no trees and no shrubs, only a few sparse grass and creeping juniper. From Chiim-Tash pass to the river Kara-Kuldja there is about 6 km in distance. Reached the river Kara-Kuldja, the path diverges: either up (east-southeast) leading to the pass of Kara-Kuldja or down (west-northwest) to reach the area of the Chatkal source. A little further west of Urmaral river, down the river Kumyshtag whose headwaters is almost parallel to the crest of the Talas Ala-Too. A dirt road back to its right tributary, the Konurtiube (Konur-Diube on the map). Directly to the south is the peak Kumysh-Tag (4251m) situated at the foothills of the mountain that separates the basins of Chiim-Tash and Kumyshtag rivers. From the end of the road to the crest of the Talas Ala-Too, it takes between 25-28 km by trail. Over this distance, the Kumyshtag River has three main left tributaries and some other small tributaries. The vegetation of the valley looks like the vegetal covering of the Urmaral Valley. The valley also serves Kumyshtag either wintering grounds either summer pastures in different places and exposures. The best wintering sites is located at the mouth of the Postun-Bulaka river, a left tributary of

Kumyshtag. Some houses found there. About 10 km from the mouth of the Postun-Bulaka following the Kumyshtag Valley, one arrives at the left tributary, the Kurama-Tor River. After 3-4 km, and from the mouth of the Kurama-Tor river, any of the sources Kurama-Tor is accessible by relatively steep rocky scree. The main ridge of the Talas Ala-Too is reached Kurama-Tor pass that toggles in the Kara-Kuldja river valley in the central portion (Chatkal sources). The path of Kurama-Tor valley thus reached the Ak-Tash pass (3461 m, 1A), also known as pass named Kurama-Tor. From the pass we follow the descent by a steep trail for about 7 km to the Kara-Kuldja Valley. Then to the west of the Kumyshtag River on the north side of the Talas Ala-Too lies the Kara-Bura River. The watershed area of the Kara-Bura River is about 800 square kilometers, perhaps the greatest of all the rivers in the region. Here the length of the upper ridge of the Kara-Bura to the main ridge of the range of Talas reached more than 40 km, nearly three-fifths of the slopes are located in the direct area of the river, the remainder are distributed on the water bassin of the main left tributary, the River Shilbili. In the lower Kara-Bura, water is almost entirely used for irrigation through an elevated flow channel. The valley has multiple channels. Near the confluence of the Kara-Bura River and Talas along sections of the highway is Kirovskoye (Kara-Bura), a regional administrative center of Kyrgyzstan (district), which is easily reached by bus from the city of Djambul in Kazakhstan (allow multiple visas inputs). On the road to the mountain, we arrive at a small village at the entrance to the Kara-Bura valley. From the entrance of the valley we still need 8 km to reach the confluence of the Kara-Bura and Shilbili. A dirt road on the latter still climbs 8-9 km, where it ends. As against the road in the Kara-Bura valley continues to the Kara-Bura road pass and down in the Chatkal river valley. Before reaching its high valley, the Kara-Bura river meets a relatively large tributary, bordering the upper basins of Postunbulak and Kara-Kysmak rivers. The route of the Kara-Bura pass road runs along the eponymous river and 6-7 km from the road pass diverges from the main valley considerably towards the southeast. From the pass we descend on the slopes of the valley of Kara-Kysmak and the road comes first along the ridge to the east, then abruptly turns south-west (hairpin turn). It is at this juncture that branches off the trail begins and pass Kichik-Kurama-Tor (or small Kurama-Tor, 3100, 1A). The trail runs parallel to the main ridge of Talas and back on the right bank of the Kara-Kysmak to its source. The main road goes down the Kara-Kysmak river crossing several bridges and fords on some tributaries of the Kara-Kysmak. The road descends almost to the mouth of the latter in the Chatkal, here you can find about forty houses and thus housing opportunities. Between the basins of Kara-Kysmak and Kara-Bura, there are other accessible passes by hiking. When the road to Kara-Bura pass leaves the valley and turned southeast, there is a trail following the main valley to the west. On the left bank of the river (which then takes the name of Chakmak) the trail rises to pass of the same name (3312 m Chakmak, 1A). About 10 km you cross some rights tributaries of Chakmak, which have their sources directly below the crest of the Talas Ala-Too in small glacial basins. It is then possible to follow these valleys up on the ridge where there are a number of passes allowing access to the Kara-kysmak basin. The Chakmak pass trail follows the left bank of the river Chakmak. It takes 3 km to reach the pass.

Then the trail descends to the Shilibili Valley, towards the last (or first depending on the direction of travel) Shilibili right tributary over a relatively short distance (less than 1 km long, so steep) to the glacial moraine bottom Valley. After discovering the passes of the Talas Ala-Too from the upper Kara-Bura, let us describe the access to the crest of the range from the mouth of the tributary Shilibili (on the map the ShilibiliSay). A dirt road track rises over a distance of 8-9 km along the Shilibili River Valley. At this point is the confluence of several rivers, the trail then leaves place for two trails opposite direction: to the right (in the direction of the rise), the trail leads to the Djon-say pass (which is 2990 m), left the trail leads to the pass Sagyzgan (2944 m), another path to the right leads to the pass Majbely (2672 m). Taking the direction of the last pass, it rose nearly 12 km along the river, sometimes moving from one bank to another. Back to the main Shilibili valley, further upstream at about 2200 m altitude valley form a right angle to the West: the South develops the valley of the right tributary: the Korumtor. You can follow the rising trail on this tributary. After 3 km, it cross the path down the pass Chakmak and goes further down closer to Shilibili river. From the intersection of runways to Korum-Tor pass the increase is about 10 km, where in much of which there's no real path. One often has has to take the scree along the stream. At source of the torrent Korum-Tor, there are two glaciers. The glacier on the right, stretches over 2 km from the slopes of a summit at 4094 m, the Visayche-Karovyi, until the southeast corner of the circus under the peak 4089 m The waters of the second glacier are drained and collected in a mountain lake, where the water is filtered by the many moraine debris. A track is fitted on the scree on the left bank of the first glacier, often covered with snow hiding the scree. The trail rises between the two glaciers on the foothills to reach the Korumtor pass (3873 m, 1B). The descent leads to the basin of the Sandalash river, the river also called Korumtor (then Chakmak and finally Sandalash). At 4 km upstream from the mouth of the river Korumtor in the Shilibili Valley, you reach the confluence of three rivers (left the Kugandy amid the Djetytor, right an unnamed torrent). The flow of the three rivers comes from the flanks of a summit at 4089 m. Anonymous river not leads to any known access pass, connecting directly to the Sandalash basin. The river Djetytor comes from two suspended glaciers cirque, part runoff water is collected in two lakes. The glacier on the right is slightly larger in width, and the left in length(1.9 km). The point of the two glaciers center is located above approximately 3800 m. The largest glacier is the one located centrally in the Kugandy valley (2 km long), it supplies the main flow of the river, also known as Kugandy. His tongue is located at an altitude of 3300 m, lower than that of the remaining glaciers of the sector. To the east, almost the same level, lies the valley of the Glacier Kugandy-Right and west 1.5 km, glacier Kugandy-Left. The runoff of glacial waters are drained and filtered by the moraine and form a north glacial circus lake on the course of the main stream. Through over passes beyond the glacier sources of Djety-Tor and Kugandy rivers, hikers can descend on the upper reaches of the river Chakmak, a component of the Sandalash river. Upstream of the confluence of three rivers just mentioned, we can go up further on the bed of Shilibili and reach 10 km after the path up to the mountain pass Chon-Kyzyl-Bel (3588 m, 1A) by its left side. Here the river Shilibili gently turns south to join one of the Talas Ala-Too most glacial parts at the vicinity of the Muzbel pass (4000, 1B). The two large glaciers are called Muzbel-Left and Muzbel-Right. The glacier tongue right down almost 200 m lower than the left. The glacier rises further 50 m higher to almost 4400 m. The right glacier is even greater, with a length of 3.2 km. The upper part of the glacier is located on the main ridge of the Talas Ala-Too and is also the

junction point from which born peaks and crest of the Pskem range. Here we come to the border with Uzbekistan, and one can also crossing on other side ridges join either the Chakmak basin (tributary of Sandalash) or the various tributaries of the Shavur-say River (basin of the Oygaing and Pskem). The Left-Muzbel Glacier is a small hanging valley and provides access to a tributary of Shavur-say. In the main sector trail goes up Shilibili Valley and climbing the moraine right of Muzbel-Right glacier, where the trail sometimes gets lost and taken to the pass Muzbel (about 4000 m, 1B). To the west of the Kara-Bura river, the first major river is the Bakair (or Suluu-Bakair on the map). There is a road in the valley between the villages of Bakair Kirovskoye and Groznoye (no name on the map), halfway it crosses the river. Normally one can go by car far enough upstream of Bakair. Since the entry of gorges to 7-8 km further, the river receives a left tributary Kuru-Bakair. the confluence of two major paths to successfully reach the east Djon-say pass (2303 m) and to the west the Kuru-Bakair Valley. The main trail up the valley of Suruu-Bakair forks several times to either pass of Maj-Bel (left), or towards the top of the Kuru-Bakair Valley (right) or to the pass Chon -Kyzyl-Bel (left), or to the Kyzyl-Bel Pass (3470 m, 1A) leading to the basin of the river Kugandy (same name as that of the Shilibili basin). These different paths are ramifications in the Bakair Valley (or Suluu-Bakair), 7 km respectively, 10 km, 14 km and 17 km upstream. Above the main trail passes on the left bank of the river Bakair. On the right bank of the torrent, huge boulders had come down from the top Bakair-Choku (4457 m). Snowfields partially cover the road, hiding the rocks and the shoreline of moraines lakes. But the path of the pass is generally clearly visible. On the right (in the direction of the rise) there are some glacial valleys rising to 4120 m. Along the trail, the glacier on the left has a length of 3.2 km and climbs a little higher than the right glacier, who presents a tongue up to 100 meters lower in altitude. The trail winds between these two glaciers to reach the pass of Bakair (4091 m, 1B). On the way down the pass is quickly joined two upper glacial lakes. The downhill course circumvents these glacial lakes, then turns west. It takes a 6-7 km trail to reach the right bank of the river Shavur-say. Further west still a major river rises on the northern slope of the Talas Ala-Too, the Kurkureu. Its watershed is less capacity than the Kara-Bura, but the tops of the watershed is in this region most tormented and jagged. To join the Kurkureu valley from the village in the Talas valley there are 16 km from Groznoye up to Kek-say (formerly a sheep-breeding state farm). A little further upstream there is the confluence of Kurkureu-Kugandy waters (right) and Atash-Chapkan (left). Let's start the description of the rise on the Kurkureu-Kugandy river. A dirt track along the Kugandy to the confluence with the Kashka-Suu River (elevation approx. 2550m-2600m). The distance from this place to the crest ridge of the Talas Ala-Too is about 16-18 km. Here, the trail branches twice, firstly to Bakair Valley, where the trail climbs to the Kyzyl-Bel Pass (3470 m). After the two gorges of Kugandy, the valley softens and the trail goes up more regularly. At 2900m the Kugandy valley is cut by a moraine bar with slopes and escarpments go up to 50Â° and a height of about 250 m. This moraine is a conglomerate of large fragments of granite. The rise of the escarpment is best done by progressively moving towards the center. The climb to the glacier (altitude 3580 m) takes about an hour. The glacier cirque length is a little over a mile, it is fairly flat, with a slightly bumpy surface, and because of the low slope, it has no large crack. Most small cracks are blocked by snow, and easily identifiable by their darker color. The march from the terminal tongue to the top of the glacier on the ridge of the Talas Ala-Too is 2.5-3 hours. The small mountainous circuses (about 1 square km) are restricted to rocky foothills and transform

at lowest altitude to lateral moraines. In the right part of the circus, a small lake has been formed in the central depression, draining the different glacial streams. Other climbing routes are possible but a little more complicated: the inclination of the slope increases dramatically, and in some places there are cracks up to 1.5 m wide. In this case it is better to go through the rocks, which, although highly disintegrated, are easier to cross, when the slope becomes steeper (up to 65-70°), and the snow cover is lowered. The upper limit of the glacier is situated at an altitude of 3800 m. The side rocks can often bypass crevasses. This site is ideal to introduce novice climbers and hikers so that it acquires insurance in moving on the tracks in rocks. And on rock walls, there are many recreational areas. The steepness of the slope increases even further above the pass and saddle can sometimes be blocked by a steep snow wall formed by the remnants of winter cornices. In this case you have to find a way to avoid the obstacle. The best way is still to cross the slope to the right, going up scree to reach the above Dustlik-P pass (3650 m, 2A). The climb from the moraine below the glacier may take, in the experience of hikers, 8 to 11 hours of time, with a vertical drop of 800 m. The pass is littered with debris from broken rocks of the most bizarre forms. If necessary, when the wind is strong, it is possible to quickly build a small stone shelter for 2-3 people. The descent leads to a small circus, elongated in the direction of Shavur-say River. The sides are rocky foothills, down under the moraines we reach a bottom formed of moraine debris, and some permanent snowfields. The easiest descent begins from the left corner of the circus, on a steep slope (up to 60°) where there is heterogeneous and rocky slopes dotted with rocky outcrops intermittently. We must be very careful and make sure you do not slip on unstable stones. To continue the descent in altitude after leaving the circus, it is recommended to pay attention to the steep slopes of the canyon leading to the Shavur-say river because many of its slopes are unstable blocks. In its lower part the next section of the river becomes steeper. There are three waterfalls that must be overcome by rocky and muddy edges. Soon we find a path along the right bank of the river Shavur-say. Another route runs through the left Kugandy glacial basin where the glaciers of the northern slope of the Talas Ala-Too are three in number. Southeast a small glacier begins and ends at an elevation of 3700 m. Another small glacier also supplies the source of Kugandy. It extends over 2 km, at 3360 m at its lowest point and 3840 m above. The largest glacier lies to the east of the basin behind the steep rocky slopes. Its glacier tongue has a small melt lake. This position of the glacier in the shade of the high foothills contributes to its great extension and its highest point is 4160 m. At this point, the descent from any location of the main ridge of the Talas Ala-Too, leads to the right bank of the river Shavur-say on the heights of its natural dam lake. Now we will describe the routes on the Kashka-Suu River just west of Kugandy. Returning downstream of Kugandy, builders of the Soviet era have constructed a road that would link up pass Tiuz-Ashuu (3746 m) and the upstream waters of the Oygaing. One can go up this road on the course of Kashka-Suu to its termination. The track passes on the left bank of the river and the valley has an average slope of about 15°. Just above the main track, there are convenient enough passes that lead to the top of the Kugandy Valley (on the 100 000th map in referenced altitudes 2781 and 3017). The trail climbs up to the last junipers where the flat bottom of the valley is gradually changing into a tighter terrain. 4 km beyond the runway at an altitude of 2950 m, at the confluence of Kashka-Suu

and an unnamed tributary, there is a convenient meadow for camping up the river without a name. Immediately after crossing some moraine ridges in the valley we find lakes remains. Moraines have blocked the feeding of these lakes by the various tributaries thrusted from the bottom of the ice tongue. The stones sometimes reach enormous proportions, water flows there below. Since the highest position of the moraine (3190 m) let us describe the route leading to the pass on the left side of a narrow circus. The most convenient ascent takes place on the left side of the glacier. In this circus (narrow, left in the direction of the rise in the Kashka-Suu Valley), a disorderly pile of stones makes it difficult to cross the circus, and to reach the glacier it takes almost 3 hours. On the free and flat part of the glacier, with a length of about 1 km, there is no crevasses. Closer to the ridge, slope is about 45° and due to inflection of this glacier cracks get a meter wide. The crack can be overcome either directly in front, or by taking the right side, closer to the rocks, taking some snow bridges. In rocky areas, snow is deeper and the ascent is easier, above the glacier slope rises to 50° and to overcome the obstacle it must be ensured with hooks and ice screws. Just before the peak, there may be snow ridges. The snow is found on the north side of Dustlik-1 pass (3600 m, 2A). South on the other side of the pass, there is a clastic rocks crest. Scree reach the bottom of the circus, which turns into soft and rocky slope in places with few permanent snowfields. On the edge of the circus there a huge rock, which is a landmark for alpinists and hikers that climb to the pass leading to the Shavur-say valley. The steepness of the rocky slope can be up to 50°, down towards Lake Shavur-kul. On the upper right tributary of the Kashka-suu there is also a glacier. Its tongue is located 3260 meters and its upper limit to 3900 above. The peak over the glacier is 4034 m, slightly to the left (in the direction of the rise). The descent of the pass Dustlik-I (for i or ye) leads to the source of the glacier Tiuz-Ashu river. The path to the Tiuz-Ashuu pass continues to climb along the left bank of the Kashka-Suu river goes accross the largest glacier in the area of 2,9 km in length and reaches the end moraines below the glacier tongue formed by the pressure of other more western glaciers. Bypassing a lake and a huge scree area, the trail reaches under the stiff tongue of the glacier (3460 m) and then follows a medial moraine, which rises almost to the pass. Before coming to a rock called the "finger", typical by its thickness of about 6 m and a height of 20 m, the trail winds through a thin scree area. To the left of the pass (in the direction of the rise) iced wall is almost vertical with powerful crevasses, right also a steep ice slope starting from the ridge, and partially icy. The height of Tiuz-Ashu Pass is 3580 m and its difficulty in category 1A. The descent on the other side is steep, takes a slope of thin scree, manages to reach a bottom flat circus, where there are few snow fields, and then gives way to moraine lands invaded by grass. Lower the Tiuz-Ashu Valley becomes narrower. First on the right bank, next the hiking trail moves on the left bank lower in altitude (about 3000m). At this point another tributary flows into the Tiuz-Ashu, water rushed along the bedrock forms a waterfall nearby. The trail passes through some snow bridge, after which it descends steeply into the water and takes by moment the course of the river. In this passage, we must be very careful, because the current is very strong. From here the trail continues to the edge of the water 200 meters on the slopes of tall grass and juniper. Then the path takes away from the bed of the river, and crosses several tributaries of TiuzAshu. At the last confluence since right tributary you can see on the valley floor the junction of three major rivers, the Tiuz Ashu, the Shavur-say-say and Tastar. The descent of the steep hill to the junction (2420 m) takes half an hour.

The heights of the valley Tiuz-Ashu are also accessible from the basin of the Ak-Tashly River on the north side of the Talas Ala-Too. To do this, we must return to the mouth of the Atash-Chapkanu a left tributary of Kurkureu. Going up the Atash-Chapkanu its first less tributary is on the right bank, it is called the Ak-Tashly. This river flows for about 3 km into several branches on gentle slopes. The mouth of the river and all its lower part are rarely visited and there are few trails. It is only in the central part of the valley that paths become visible. The trail climbs over the remains of an old moraine to the lower part of the valley bottom glacier. The terminal glacial tongue is very steep, almost 100 m vertical, enclosed by a hedge moraines and rock debris fell from the side slopes. The tongue of the glacier is situated at an altitude of 3570 m and is 3.3 kilometers. The glacial cirque of the Ak-Tashly River is an open northeast-southwest ellipse bounded on the east by a summit at 4061 m and to the north at 4147 m and in the southern part of the circus glacier slopes join the highest peak at 4250 m. Just west, the summit of the ridge of the Talas Ala-Too reaches 4061 meters on a mountain pass called pass of the Soviet Militia (Sovetskoy Militsi pass, 4061m). Approaches the main peak are everywhere glacial whose slope gradually increases to the peak from 20° to 40°. Ice is often covered with deep and compact snow, forming bridges. Some cornices still cling to the slopes before the saddle. The pass of the Soviet Militia (3670 m, 1B) forms a very narrow ridge that descends on the other side by steep scree to the Tiuz-Ashu sometimes with a 45° tilt. On the right we cross a small snow-ice circus with a lake in the middle. The lake receives water filtered through all the rubble of the moraine. The route goes down the track from the pass TiuzAshu (3580, 1A). The origins of this great glacier called "Tourist of Ak-Tashly of Tashkent", there is a rather difficult mountain pass which provides access to the basin of the river Kuruchkol (east). Some climbers have often posed the question of the existence of this passage on the north branch of the crest of the Talas Ala-Too. And yet, to the attention of mountaineers hikers, we give here a description of its access from the Ak-Tashly until the Kuruchkol River Valley. A 4-5 km above the mouth of the river Ak-Tashly merge the two rivers: the Atash-ChapkanaMaydantal (left) and Kuruch-kol (right). The trail goes up the Kuruch-kol valley towards the Karakyr pass. A 10 to 12 km from the main ridge, the Kuruchkol is joined by two tributaries rights. Going back over the two tributaries branching off after a kilometer, and the direction is immediately right into narrow gorges filled with debris of rocks and avalanches. The stream then goes right into a big circus, surrounded by rugged rocky ridges that line the upper reaches of the glacier of rivers Kuruch-kol, Tiuz-Ashu and Ak-Tashly. The entrance to the circus is in the form of a large "door" rock. On steep slopes there is a lot of debris to the bed of the stream. Soon the trail diverges: a good torrent rises above a moraine lake at the foot of the glacier, located in the southern part of the circus. The glacier is first partially covered with moraine sediments. On the left a steep slope go down from a small glacial cirque to the main glacier. If the surface of the slope is not covered in part by meltwater streams, you can follow in the “bédière” channel. On the right side below the crest, icy walls are almost impassable. On the left (in the direction of the rise) a rocky transition is possible towards the pass above 3610 m. The passage of this pass can not be considered as a rational way of descent to the sources of TiuzAshu, because in this case one should first go through a series of rocky foothills south to the aboveTiuz-Ashu and this prove to be impractical. The eastern boundary of the circus is very high (over 4000 m) and at this point of the crest of the

Talas Ala-Too, it has its highest peak at Manas Peak 4484 m. Tashkent climbers often climbed the spur to reach the pass at 3610 m. For this we can also bivouac around a Moraine Lake in the east, on a small rocky plateau, the night before the crucial assault. From this plateau alpinists also dated back to the left, avoiding the rocky terrain with scree areas. Just before the peak, the inclination of the slope is up to 50°. On the ridges rocks are formed in sawtooth. Notches on the ridge, on which was blocked a similar rock of frog appearance, tourists have named this place the ANF pass (4110 m, IIA) in honor of the oldest amateur alpine hikes Tashkent A.N. Fedorov. The path used by climbers of Tashkent is of great beauty, and according to them, the safest and most "easy". Any other way of ascent/descent may have an increased complexity to a pass level III-A and the implication of using the whole arsenal of rock climbing walls and ice equipment. As already mentioned, the glacier Ak-Tashly is an open ellipse circus. The western and southern parts are occupied by glaciers partially broken down to the main body of the glacier. The northern boundary of the circus is at the top of 4147 m above sea level on a rock wall almost no snow dotted with ledges and scree. Scree down to the same glacier. Here at left is material of moraine interspersed with melted streams from the glacier. The circus has a low glacier smooth surface where spurting rock outcrops. In front of the top 4147 m altitude, on the south side of the circus, the body of the glacier was partially resolved by a rocky outcrop over its entire width, unusually dramatically. How can mountaineers then down the pass to the body of glacier Ak-Tashly? 200 m north of the exit on the spur of the main ridge extends a small rocky ridge along a small hanging glacier. The descent takes place along the edge of rocks stacked overhead, and rapid progress towards a wall of ice 250-300 meters below. Always along on the left (direction of descent) the crevasses of the glacier are visible on the right, especially as open and suspended while the slope of the glacier rises inexorably. During 160-170 m down, and always by the left (in the direction of descent), Glacier jumps are encountered a height of about 1.5 m. Near the rimaye the hanging glacier in the last 50 meters have to be crossed using insurance with ice screws. After the climbers have retreated from the hanging glacier, they reach an ice ledge, covered in snow at the edge of a wide ravine. It is a steep corridor approach the glacier slowly becomes gentler slopes. The main glacier is then cracked by crevasses often closed by snow. Melt water flows in many “bédières” on the left in a continuous stream. There are shaped ice of "mushrooms" and "tables" and numerous lakes. You can reach the way to the pass of the Soviet Militia. And if necessary to return to the river valley Kuruch-Kol one can go through the pass of Kara-Kyr. It is in the Kara-Kyr pass that during the season from July to September, the shepherds are passing herds of cattle and sheep from one valley to another, but as soon as the snow comes almost from the end September, the pass is considered unreachable until next summer. We find in these valleys many traces of ancient glaciers of the activity. The path of the Kara-Kyr pass was following the KuruchKol valley along its right bank. This is as close to the pass of Kara-Kyr (3580 m), which is found most remarkable presence of glaciers. Indeed, in the vast circus before the pass on the left side are hanging glaciers, which, with the main glacier, cover an area of 3.8 km2. It is the largest continuous ice surface of the Kurkureu basin. Its glacial tongue is located at 3280 m. On the surface there is many melt streams flow, and more of them are confined to the right side of the steep glacier tongue. Here, among the thrusts moraine, there is a small lake. Just above the body of the glacier there is a large rock mass. The surface of the left side of the glacier has large cracks and serac falls. It is better to follow on the right bank, along the lateral slopes of moraine and scree.

At this point the glacier tongue gradually turns east at the base of the peaks Chong-Tash, and south of the peak 3760 m to the right (direction of the rise), and one can see the snow covering the crest of Talas Ala-Too, where is the Kara-Kyr Pass (3500 m, 1B). The inclination of the pass slopes are reasonable, around 25Â°, and snow cornices are small. The southern slope of the ridge is almost with no firn. You have to go on the foothills left (downstream direction) by a visible and beaten tracks path convenient to go down. Attention to some places, the trail crosses a few jumps steepness of up to 40Â°, which can create additional difficulties. Then the trail descends to the merger of the sources of Kara-Kyr-say River. It then follows the course of the river, we must cross several times. On the path we soon found the grassy slopes and the first junipers along the river and in the sources of flush water. Before the mouth of the Kara-Kyr-say on Tiuz-Ashuu river, rocky slopes are steep and and the trail narrowed and headed toward the sunken of Oygaing Valley. Here, depending on the conditions of the river, you can either pass through or continue to descend along the right bank to the bridge. Farther southwest of Kurkureu River basin is the basin of the river Maydantal (territory of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan). The high valley of Maydantal arises at Maydantal pass and gradually turns south for 18-20 km. Ahead of the curve to the south, the walls are steep and rocky, and foaming river flowing between rocky placers. On the banks between the rocks and along the shore and various tributaries torrents, it is a damp, grassy area. On the steep slopes erosion has created fanciful shapes rocks fractured and dotted with dark juniper bushes. The flat valley bottom is covered with deciduous shrubs groups. On the way to the pass of Maydantal one must overcome two difficult passages. The first passage is located beyond the deciduous groves on slopes covered with juniper. The second passage is at the level of the first snow fields encountered in glacier area and scree. About 5 km from Maydantal pass narrow gorges give way to a broad valley surrounded by rocky slopes of glacial shape, place the shepherds call Ashutor (named after the river forming the Maydantal). There is a chaos of boulders piled on each other in spectacular fashion, and beautifully surrounded by ancient gnarled trunk of creeping juniper. The rocks are covered with sparse vegetation, eaten by the sheep. The confluence of the two rivers of the founding Maydantal (the Ashutor and Chingiz) is located at 2914 m. Beyond the highest mountainous circus dominates the Peak Chong-Tash (4165 m). A 2-3 km west of the peak lies the Torashu or Ashutor pass (3678 m, 1B), leading to Chingiz Valley. On both sides of the pass are the glaciers. To climb the pass of Maydantal, the trail goes along the moraine and then rises sharply to the peak of the Talas Ala-Too. The Maydantal pass (3524 m, 1A) is a deep notch almost at the junction of Talas and Ugam ridges at the foot of the southeast slopes of the latter massif. The descent of the pass Torashu (further south) follows the course of the river Torashu (or Ashuu-Tor). It is very steep and winds all the time in the beginning. A 10-12 km from Torashu pass, the river merges with the Tchingiz river forming the Maydantal, a left tributary of the Pskem. At the junction of the rivers also share the path towards the Tchingiz Valley. To the west of the river Kurkureu are the rivers and gorges of Koksai and Aksai (Kazakhstan). These rivers both begin on the main ridge of the Talas Ala-Too and border the headwaters of the river Djabagly which traverse the territory of the nature reserve Aksu-Djabagly (Kazakhstan). We do not know information about the mountain passes to the sources of Kok-say. However the sources of Aksai were crossed by climbers of Kazakhstan V.Stepanova and V.Torodinym in 1952, and the trail to Sary-Tash Pass (3500 m, 2A), is known.

The Chatkal Range Maps : 100 000th: K42-072, K42-083, K42-084, K42-094, K42-095, K43-073 and K43-085; 200 000th: K42-23, 24 K42, K43-19 Chatkal range extends from the Talas Ala-Too to sources of Karasu and Uzunahmat rivers, along an axis of the northeast to southwest. The Chatkal stretches nearly 120 kilometers and forms the northern backbone of the Ferghana Valley. The south-east slope of the ridge has a width of 35-50 km, and its North-Western slope overlooking the Chatkal watershed is 12-18 km wide. The northfacing valleys are steeper while the south has a gentle relief. Most rivers have drawn deep gorges on both sides. The only exception is in the few east-west oriented valleys of the upper tributaries of the Chatkal (the Karakuldja, the Aksu and the Karatoko) and the headwaters of Kasan-say. Most valleys have watersheds with traces of ancient glaciation in the form of hollow valley floor often obstructed much of the year by snow. At the sources of some rivers there remain small glaciers. The eastern part of the crest of the Chatkal is particularly indented, with very pronounced rock formations, sharp peaks that differ significantly (as the highest reaches a height of 4563 m). To get to the heart of Chatkal from the Ferghana Valley, it is convenient to leave the city of Namangan (Uzbekistan) (which can be reached by train or bus). Since Namangan bus takes two hours to bring tourists to the village of Karavan (north, on the foothills of Chatkal, Kyrgyzstan). Karavan bus or car can carry hikers where the hiking trail begins. The route follows the axis towards Djangy-Djol also reachable from Tash-Komur on the large Osh-Bishkek road. The mountain road allows to reach from Djangy-Djol the Abdukaly village of Kara-Suu Valley. It is also convenient to get to the heart of Chatkal by road from Talas through the Talas Ala-Too and Chatkal Valley then to move on the main ridge of Chatkal at the pass Chapchama, if we want to stay on territory of Kyrgyzstan. The Bishkek-Osh road is also an option after the Toktogul reservoir, we reach the town of Tash-Komur, and from there by the semicircular route towards Karavan into various areas of Chatkal like area of Sary-Chelek Lake from the steps of the Kyrgyz Ferghana. The limit of the zone described here is limited by the Kara-Suu river, a relatively large stream, which originates at the junction between the peaks of Chatkal and Atoynak. The watershed of the river is highly branched and includes many tributaries. We only talk about the right tributaries of the river knowing that the left tributaries are outside our area of interest (Atoynok). Turning first to the valley of Kara-Suu River, to the east of our description, the village of Abdukaly (also Kyzyl-Kul on the map 100 000th). A road allows to reach and continues along the river for several kilometers. Outside the village of Abdukaly road trail follows the left bank of Kara-suu, passing over bridges to cross the various tributaries of Kara-suu. Here the river flows through limestone and conglomerates, and the valley soon becomes a deep ravine. Rocky slopes are steep, often gray color covered terraces and veins of white rocks falling from the mountain of Myn-Teke (3560) to the riverbed. The brilliant colors of the dewatered vegetation allied to rocky slopes in this part of the valley can be considered the most beautiful and contrasting in this region.

Col Kurama-Tor

ra ly

iim -Ta sh

uT ala s

o -To sh

Col Kychy-Kurama-Tor

du Ta la

yu um Ky

Col Mursash

-To od

Ch o

Ku r aKuram

Tor

Col Ak-Tash

al atk Ch

Kara -Ku ldja

Col Kokyu-Bel K a-

Kokyu-B el

m ys

Col Beshkel ou Itychar

Col Kara-Kuldja

Taldy-Bulak

Col Aflatun Vostochnyi Lozhnyi est

al tk

Aflatun

Yaryk-Tash

Khodjo-Ata

Shuduger

a At a-

a -s dy y

Padysha-Ata

Koksaraï 2605 m

a-A

Ita

Ba b

st)

Terek-

say

Kirghizstan

ta-s

y-say

a Ch

Kyzykty Baba-Ata 2463 m

ga r

Aflatun

Col

s To

Kara-Bashat

Mukur

Syny

rd Tula-Be

Djangy-Djol

k-s Ze

m -s ay

Saray-say

Pa ba

al sh

Col Kochkor-Ata

k-say Ara-Bula

Col Tuz-Ashuu

Af latu

usa y

sa hanaltyrk Ak-B

tkal Cha

k-s u

Sarlyk-say

Ula n-

Soku

r-Bel -s

Yslenovka

Kaksha-suu Bu

la k

Kyulyuk-Debe Or yu kty u

Nanay uka

Kyzyl-A

Ala-B

Djantyk

k ula -B

ta r-A ko

k Ary

h ac an Ch

ch Ko

k ere ra-T Ka

y sa aam ch ap Ch

rd y

Tu yu

Tuz-Ashuu-say

Col 2739

Ish ta mb e

Abdukaly

Mazar Padshaata

ay -s er -T yr ak Ch

Col Kachala-Tor ou Kanysh-Tor

Col 3617

Col Chapchama

Col Achyk-Alma

Arkyt

Myng-Dzhil ky

Col Kara-Terek

Chatkal

Col Kanysh-Kya

ta-say

uu k-s ye Ko

Ak-Tam

Oryuktyu

Ala-Buka

Orographic scheme of the Chatkal range

uz O

n ta is k bé

Karavan

Col Kola

ta on Ch

Col Koshanarka

r ko

er -B

Kyz yl-T or

dy Pa

Col Tulla-Berdy

Col 3415 Col Kosh-Aryk

ïn

Col Yfimskyi

Col Chanach

ch Ko

la Tu

ash aar-T g-Sh Chon

elsa y

Tu zAs hu

ay al-s n-T rge Dje

h as -B

an -K

l-K a

Col Turashu

Col

ulak Uzuk-B

ar az M

Ka r

Che tty-s

Col Myng-Dzhilky

un ya

Col Kuturma

u ug nb

yli

Kara-suu

r g-To

Col Ak-Tash

Djany-Bazar

Ulkensay

Te m

lek he -C

Ken

Pic 4268m

Cha mc hy

er Glaci

Col Ferganskyi Turistov

a alm

aïn dy

tu U

Pic 4217m

Ch alK

ar Itag

ue st)

Kara-Terek Kiy as

say arSha

Padysha-Ata

Ka ny sh -

Ch an ac h (o

Utu r

Col Shaar an Atb or z-T Mu

-Te re

toy na

Col Ipalgy

ry Sa

Ka ra

pa -za

Ke sh k

Col Tamanyak

kchi Tuyu

Karagayly

Ak -s uu

Col 30LET TTZ uu -s ha ks Ka

ou A

Col Akbel

Myn-Teke 3560 m

Karasu Col Sary-Chechekeï Bashi-Kul

c La

Col Kuldambes Col Ashuu ou Keshkyli

Col Aflatum Zapad. (Ouest) Col Omskikh Turistov

ldja

Col Airbel

Col Kugandy

u -su

tun fla

Kuldambes

Pic 4298m

al tk a h C

Col Okum

Col Sary-Chelek

Col Ashuu-Tor ou Aflatun Srednyi

Col Solnechnyi

-Ku

Col Akbel

ko Col Kara-Tokou -To ara ou Aflatoun-B K

Pic Zamok Ckazok 4060m

Ka ra

Col Makmal

ra Ka

cA La

-say Kely

Pic 4505m

l tka

Col Kashka-su Col Dughur

Col Pila

Ma km al

a Ch

lak

Kyzyl-su u Col Sovietsky Geographov

ok -T ra Ka

Ch a

l ku en Ish

Yz yk -B u

Afl atu n

Col Dolgozhdannyi

Col Ishenkul ou Chatkalskaya Ushba

lak

ldy yry r-P Ku

ay ly

sa kre ge Te

u y-B

Ta h

Ku ru -sa

Ka ra g

Col Aksu

Col Goluboïl

Pic Muztor 4355 m

Ar pa -

ha c

r zto Mu

Tald

Ay u-C

Tegerek-s

al atk

ja uld -K ra Ka

AlaToo du T alas

Ok um

r Ka

Ak-s

Ka ra-T ok

Ala-T oo

Col Chiim-Tash

Yaryk-Ta sh

Kara-Kysm

Col Kara-Bura

aTo r

Ala

The track goes sometime on the foothills of the valley and then down to the water, and then walks away, passes on the right bank and struck a steeper slope lined with noisy waterfalls on the river. The increase of slopes of about 200 m is due to the presence of a dam on the river. Containment formed the Kara-suu Lake (also called Karasu-Bashi-Kul), feeding on different streams such as Kara-Kamysh and Kutemaldy-Kul. 2 km upstream of the dam in the valley there is a small lake (elevation 1700 m). During 500m upstream from the surface of the reservoir, the small river flows from lake quietly. And the valley is here invaded by spruce groves, maple, birch, often forming under trees heavy shade, filled with various shrubs as eremurusa yellowish. Prior Lake trail detaches to the left toward the pass Kudarma-Ashu (Kuturma on the map) and then down on the other side to the lake Sary-Chelek, to the right track over the bridge and takes on the eastern shore Lake Karasu-Bashi-Kul. The length of the lake Karasu-Bashi-Kul is 1.5 km and its width reaches up to 500 m. Its altitude is 1870 m. On the east side of the lake, away from the rocks there is a very good and convenient platform to establish a camp, the place is covered with huge trees, maples, poplars, birches and pines. A well-packed trail follows the same bank to reach the north end of the lake. The trail follows an edge in places carved out of the rock, sometimes steep and slippery below. On the eastern shore of the lake rise many pine trees, while in contrast the opposite side is naked, lifeless. Upstream of the lake, the river is called Okunsu (among the local population is sometimes known as the Kyzyl-Suu). The bottom of the valley looks like a vast meadow with abundant vegetation, individual trees and groups of birch and fir. The meadow was formed by sediments of the delta of the river upstream, as before flowing into the lake, the river has several branches. From the lake to the source of the Okunsu there are about 15 km away along a relatively flat valley, which rises gradually. Sometimes you need to spend a few fords on the same bank, through some marshy shores at the foot of rocky areas of the waterfront. To its left tributary the Kashka-Suu running time is about 4 hours. Rising 2 km above the Okunsu-Kyzyl-Suu, the valley widens and we meet several tributaries of the river. We do not have information on the pass passage on the main Chatkal ridge, towards the northeast, from the source of the Okunsu, however, one can point to a pass crossing a side spur to get to the upper reaches of the Kara-Toko River (Chatkal basin). This pass is used by many groups of hikers. Before the various sources torrents merge into Okunsu in the valley below is a small and relatively steep ravine like a bag. There is almost always there at the back the remains of snow avalanches. It is from this point that starts the track, often hidden under the snow. The trail climbs slowly over a ridge to the Makmal Pass (2700 m, 1A), and with the same slope gently descends to the river that feeds the lake Sary-Chelek. Two downhill runs are possible either along the river Makmal or along the Kula-Tau River (further up the valley). Now let us back to Kashka-Suu mouth a few kilometers downstream, the left tributary of the Okunsu, located at the altitude of 2200 m. The valley ascent is relatively short but very marked by the remnants of winter and spring avalanches and the climb is steep to the confluence of the two sources of the river Kashka-Suu. From there, the trail turns right (direction of travel), in the valley of the Mala-Tash river, then goes up a steep and winding ridge of a spur, sometimes through long grassy slopes where grow prangosa thickets and ferrule. This is achieved by a small pass (Ak-Bel 2817) on the upper ridge, which runs on a buttress northbound. The trail sometimes gets lost on the crest of the ridge. To reach the Kashka-Suu Pass one must overcome a rocky slope, sometimes

covered with packed snow. Kashka-Suu pass height is of 3525 m, and the degree of difficulty 1B. The path of the Kashka-Suu pass permit us to go down to the north side of the river of the same name Kashkasu North. The short valley is filled with detritus coming down steep rock faces. Often the presence of snow in the valley floor is very marked, alternating with green meadows passages and gray rock bars. The descent takes about two hours (the snow is often present even lower in altitude) before joining the confluence of the river Kashkasu and Atoynak river (also known as the Kara-Kuldja on map) that goes to the Southeast (along the northern slope of the small subrange of Atoynak and empties into Lake reservoir Totktogul). Here, the Kashka-Suu valley north joins the right bank of the Atoynak as one goes upstream along the dense vegetation. On the opposite side there is a plateau that is a very good location for jailoo (or summer mountain pasture grazing). The Atoynak river is noisy, but almost everywhere fording is possible. From the milky color of the waters of the river, we can guess that they come from the melting glacier. And indeed, one of the components of the Atoynak, the Muz-tor River begins westward under the glacier down the slopes of the eponymous top (Peak Muz-Tor, 4355). Here, the mountain is particularly steep and easy passage through the passes between the towering peaks is not really possible, that would reach the top of the Chatkal basin. The main component of the Atoynak river is called Karakuldja and flows to the northwest. A path leads up the valley to the pass of the same name (Kara-Kuldja pass located at the source of Chatkal/Kara-Kuldja flowing west). For the climb, it is necessary to cross the tributary of the MuzTor and goes along the right bank of the Kara-Kuldja for about 4 hours. For a while the trail crosses the forest between some picturesque rock formations, then turns north and up the valley surrounded by high green hills. In the valley hollow, one can meet the shepherds, that is 4-5 km from the KaraKuldja pass. For the story this pass was a local caravan route between the valleys of Talas (by the passes Kara-Bura and Kychy-Kurama-Tor), Chatkal and Ferghana Valley. Now it is still used by shepherds for transhumance to jailoo and hikers in the mountains. The course takes place on gentle slopes and the rocky trail leads to large areas of fescue steppes, where many cattle graze. The saddle of the pass is a kind of plateau with a wide flat surface (sirt in Kyrgyz) littered with scattered stones. This is the pass of Kara-Kuldja (3120 m, 1A). On the other side of the saddle, there is an even fescue steppe, which descends further towards the river Karakuldja (same name), the source of Chatkal. The descent is made on a wide valley, sometimes marshy and relatively flat. Furthermore we come to the yurts of the shepherds. At 10-12 km down the Kara-Kuldja (source of Chatkal) we are joined to the right a path leading to Chiim-Tash Pass following a tributary of the river. After 10 km, the trail turns right again and reaches the Ak-Tash Pass (3000 m). Soon the trail becomes a dirt track where trucks occasionally pass delivering products to the shepherds. About 1.5 kilometers below the junction of the trail to the pass Chiim-Tash, a path separates and branches off to the left bank of Kara-Kuldja. It rides on a low ridge that separates this valley of the Aksu River Valley (also a component of the Chatkal downstream). This river rises from five glaciers on the flanks of the mountain, and only two are located on the slopes of the main ridge of the Chatkal. Mountaineers from Leningrad (SaintPetersburg) had made the ascent of the main Aksu glacier to Aksu Pass (3450 m, 1B), and then down to the upper reaches of the river Muz-Tor River in its main circus source, where is the Bobrinskogo glacier. The Aksu valley where the trail crosses is broad and relatively flat, but on its left bank a trail rises to Kokuy-Bel Pass (3036 m, 1A), it is quite steep. From the Kokuy-Bel pass, the trail crosses a small spur and along the slopes to the south, following the river Kokuy-Bel and reaches the top of the valley of the river Kara-Toko. The descent to the bed of the river is steep, but the trail is safe and

correct. This is the essence of what we describe about Kara-Toko Valley. And now, back to the basin of the Kara-Suu River, specifically in its important right tributary valley of the Hodzhaata river (on the map the Khodjo-Ata). The basin of the river Hodzhaata (or Kodjo-Ata) starts directly from the main ridge of the Chatkal (in its highest point at 4247 m) and extends over nearly 40 km and a width of 6-10 km. The upper part of the watershed is nearly the southern end of Lake Sary-Chelek. From a geological point of view this part of the Chatkal is mainly composed of limestone, which makes its relief more indented by deep valleys and steep slopes. In the lower valleys area dominates rocky conglomerate of sandstone or marl. Bordering bottom valleys there are gentle slopes covered with a thick layer of soft soil. By road a bus can take you into the main village in the upper valley Arkit. This is where is the entrance to the nature reserve of Lake Sary-Chelek. Here it is necessary to obtain permission to visit the territory through the administration office. The reserve was created in 1960, its size is approximately 21 000 hectares. Its length from north to south is 20-25 km and its width reaches up to 12 km. In the upper part of the reserve there are narrow and deep gorges, over which bristle rocky peaks. On the steep slopes above sea level there is often steep snowfields. Alpine vegetation down into the grasslands, shrubs grow as spruces, firs, junipers and deciduous trees. The lower part of the reserve is occupied by walnut forests alternate with shrubbery. Of the total area of the reserve, there are nearly a thousand species of plants. There are no less wealth and variety in wildlife. There was still in the 1970s: 41 species of mammals, 157 species of birds and reptiles, 52 species of amphibians and five species of fish. Among the large animals were encountered wild boars, deer, bears, wild cats, badgers, porcupines. On the tops of high mountains reserve live ibex, Marco Polo sheep, stoats, weasels and at the top of the food range wolves and a few snow leopards. On the sites of the rocky cliffs can be seen grouse, ptarmigan, swallows, swifts, thrushes, and birds of prey like eagles, griffon vultures, condors and vultures. Areas bushes are particularly rich in bird floodplains with thick groves. Cormorants are on lakes, as well as different varieties of ducks, herons and ospreys. Some fish species are also found in rivers and lakes of the reserve, as Schizothorax species published in the 1970s, carp, trout of the Amu Darya. Along the river, some amphibians also live like green toad, frog, water snakes, the forest belt and various species of snakes some of which are poisonous, as a variety of viper (close to the snake American moccasin, very poisonous). We will now describe some hiking in the reserve in the heart of the exploration of the Chatkal ridges. Over the last houses of the village of Arkit the river Hodzhaata (or Khodjo-Ata) meets his right tributary Tamanyak (or Temunyak-say on the map). This surface flows intermittently and a trailhead makes up the valley. On the north side, the walnut trees in the forest are enormous and almost crown above the river. The huge stones and full boulders partly stacked obstruct the river and provide a picturesque view of the gorge. The old birches bend their gnarled trunk at the edge of the water. Above the gorge there are multiple tree species such as walnut, apple, maple, hawthorn bushes and blackberries. Going up the gorge narrows gradually, and the rocks seem wanting to eat the river. One must then pass through an area of large boulders almost completely filling the gorge as the crossing becomes more difficult. Above the transition, the Temunyak valley widens and the trail reappears and winds along the slope along the cliffs. During the rainy season, the track is no longer practicable. The end of the trail leads to the pass Tamanyak or Temunyak (3050 m, 1A), located at 10-12 km from the village of Arkit.

From the heights of the river Temunyak there are also several tracks, leading to the valley Aflatun, which eventually merge into one on the left side of the valley. At the bottom of the river spring avalanches formed snow fields, taking with them the broken stones and trees. The snowfield often intermittently obstruct the trail to the left bank of the river Aflatun, then we can go through the dry bed of the river. The dirt road continues to the Hodzhaata River, then turns sharply to the right. If we continue on the river Hodzhaata we reach the pass Kichkel (Keshkyli on the map 2552 m), and one can be reached below the northern tip of Lake Sary-Chelek. According to sources of some informations this pass is called with the same name as the lake. In the Valley of Arkit a winding road rises on the eastern foothills to reach the southern tip of Lake Sary-Chelek beyond a ridge, at the Kylakul lake. It has a length of about 700 m, and its width of 200 to 400 m. Its depth is insignificant. A short water cord connects upstream to the large SaryChelek lake. On flat banks grow prangosa (Latin Name), fruit trees and juniper. Closer to shore is growing a lush lakeside vegetation (reeds, cattails, sedges). On the south shore of Lake Kylakul, the road diverges either to the right leading down to the two lakes Chachakul and Igrykul or left to the lake Sary-Chelek. From the village Arkit to the Lake Kylakul, there are about 12 km in distance. From the top of the lake dam it opens to your eyes a real "corridor" filled with water between the mountains stretched from north-west to south-east, nearly 7 km. The greatest depth of Sary-Chelek lake reaches up to 245 m, and its widest part (southwest) reached almost 1.5 km, its lowest (average), 350 m. All the surrounding mountains rise to 2600-2800 m while the lake is 1858 m. The shores of Lake Sary-Chelek are very picturesque. Steep cliffs often fall into deep waters, blackened by the flanks of the mountain. In some places the rocks are replaced by slope jutting out into the clear water, and one can almost see each stone. On the trails, grow mainly in the north, spruce, fir and juniper. They form genuine small forests. Closer to the water, especially in the valleys of some of its tributaries, there are many birches. Felled trees and demolished by avalanches are generally placed on the south shore. The Sary-Chelek Lake is near several small lakes. We have already spoken of Lake Kyla-Kul. To the west of Sary-Chelek is the Bakalyk-Kul, the southeast Chukur-Kul lake, Chacha-Kul, Haramkul and Igry-Kul. The trail leading to the lake Igry-Kul (Iru-Kul on the map) begins north in the directon KudarmaAshu Pass (Pass Kuturma on the map). Straight (upstream) rises the crest of the watershed, beyond which flows the river Kara-suu. The mountainous landscape is very diverse as the flora composed of apple, honeysuckle, juniper, spruce, strewn with boulders, with open spaces overgrown with grass and prangosa. The altitude increase is relatively modest. It is only one kilometer from the pass that the climb is noticeable, while between the Igry-Kul Lake and the southern end of Lake SaryChelek the relief is practically flat. Beyond the ledge the trail becomes at once more difficult: it climbs along a stream, partly in its bed. The feet can slip on the smooth stones by the water. In some places the rocks form stacks of plates, sometimes discharged as rubble. From the Igry-Kul Lake to the pass it takes about 2 hours drive, and from Sary-Chelek, it takes half an hour. Before the pass, on the edge of the path, there is a signpost arrow held by large stones indicating the direction of Kudarma-Ashu pass (Kuturma, 2460 m, 1A). In the valley of the KaraSuu River trail is well marked, even if its size decreases and it winds. The trail skirts the left rocky cliffs almost perpendicularly above the water, and from there the valley bottom you can see the lake Karasu-Bashi-Kul. From there, the trail continues to the bridge over the Kara-suu, at about 1.5 hours down.

Let us now describle the north end of Lake Sary-Chelek where the river of the same name is thrown. The three tributaries north shore of Lake appears separately in the form of a stone bed, with very little water. The very mouth of the main river looks like a floor covered with a thick layer of grass with trees scattered here and there. Near the mouth of the river start traces of trails to the north leading to the Sary-Chelek pass. The climb is steady but not difficult. On the occasion we must leave traces to avoid tall grass on lawns arriving to the waist. If necessary go round the edges of the rocks. Above the subalpine vegetation appears easier to cross, up to the pass at altitude 2820 m. We can then see the lake below, with its eastern shores and meadows spruce. On the south side of the pass there are no trees and the slopes are overgrown with prangosa, and bushy groves leading down to a valley basin of the river Hodzhaata (or Kodjo-Ata). At 1 km upstream of Lake Sary-Chelek the river narrows. She met her first right tributary, Kuldambes, coming from the west, and has been in a stony bed. North facing slopes become steeper, interspersed with jumps, sometimes steep, grassy ledges and are dotted with pine trees. Above Sary-Chelek river flows a left tributary from which you can climb to the pass Makmal to the east. In the main valley at an altitude of 2200-2400 m appear the first snowfields. All around the rock and slope, running water is present. In the bed of the river birches are rarer. The valley narrows even forming a gorge, the rocks are similar, but the trail remains clearly visible, avoiding the snowy areas early in the season. The gorge opens somehow suddenly on a large rocky area formed by the main ridge of the Chatkal between the basins of the upper Aflatun, the Sary-Chelek. The slopes are covered with juniper and above you can see the grassy slopes even higher altitude bare rocks are exposed to strong sunlight, snow ribbons and blue sky form successive impressions in this magnificent landscape. On the left the circus (in the direction of the rise) is the pass of Kuldambes (2900 m, 1A), accessible by a good route and communicating south with the eponymous valley. A rocky trail to the west reaches Aflatun East Pass. Streams flow through the tumultuous waterfalls between huge stones. Here the climb becomes steep, first along the left bank of the river, then a snow field is achieved to a secondary canyon, while hikers do not go to the circus, often blocked by snow. On the right of the circus (always in the direction of the rise), it is difficult to distinguish the corridor, which is the descent of the Kara-Toko pass and access to the river basin of the same name. Left circus SaryChelek river mainly due to the melting of a small glacier of 0.25 km2, receiving only very little runoff. It bypasses the small glacier climbing the rocks on the right (uphill direction) towards the ridge and Aflatun East Pass (3340 m, 1B). Access to the saddle of the pass and Aflatun River Valley can be closed by snowfields and steep ledges remains. The distance from the Sary-Chelek lake to the Aflatun East Pass is about 15 km away. From the pass we descend for a few kilometers on steep snowfields, staying on the left of the slope. Farther below appears track. First the path is hidden under the snow that lies along the side tributaries. The snow is so deep that it is sometimes necessary to perform pause, step by step. At about 8 km from the valley the trail follows the contours, until reaching a ledge above high cliffs, where you have to go down and joined a trail to Aflatun-center pass and the valley Aflatun. This is the largest right tributary of the Kara-Suu river. The Aflatun basin has an extension of 15-18 km adjacent to the main Chatkal ridge, from the highest point of the sector, up to 4340 m. In the upper part of the river it remained four small glaciers with a total area of less than 1.5 km2. From the lower reaches of the upstream Aflatun, there is a dirt track about fifteen kilometers, passing the village of Shuduger (near the confluence of the Aflatun with its right tributary the Utur river) that joined the forestry institution Batra Khan (year 1970-1980, on the edge of the right

tributary Batra Khan) and ends just above the latter. In this region, the Batra Khan is a major river nearby a minor tributary Chel-Kandy or Shal-Kandy upstream. A path in the Shal-Kandy Valley goes up to the hill of Shal-Kandy (2719 m) and can get to the Utur Valley. A long forest trail path on the left bank of the Aflatun for at least 10 km and move upstream to the mouth of the river Oyalma (Uyalma on the map), and halfway on the right by a track to the pass Tamanyak (or Temunyak). At the confluence of Aflatun and Oyalma the valley is wide and covered with green lawns and trees. Above the valley narrowed strongly. The left side Oyalma valley is flat with traces of avalanches and landslides, right slopes are covered with spruce. The trail goes almost all the time along the foaming river and only begins to winds at first ridge with Kuldambes Valley, when the vegetation becomes a grassy pasture. In the valley Aflatun as in the Oyalma Valley, down the northern slopes are covered with spruce forests and the southern slopes of eremurus thickets (lily of the steppes). The steep walls are of limestone formation. And as you go up in altitude, the valley becomes more mineral and reliefs are tormented. The closer we get to the pass, the slope gradually softened. The grass of the pastures, gradually gave way to the detrital rock. A hundred meters from the grass, pass disappears completely, and gives way to bare rock that litter the Aflatun-central pass (3364 m, 1B, perhaps Ashuu-Tor Pass on the map). It may also remained snow early in the season. The landscape of the descent on the northern slope of the Chatkal ridge likes the rise before on the opposite side, but in reverse order. There was first a gentle rocky slope surrounded by limestone cliffs on the sides. On the slopes gradually grow juniper. Lowest one cross a flat rocky sector with very soft colors. Then the trail descends to the bottom of a narrower gorge, goes from one bank to the other along the side pebble deposits, which leads us to the output of the narrow valley to reach the left bank of the sources of Aflatun River (on the other side and tributary of Chatkal). The wild and picturesque gorge seems far impregnable. But this is the first impression because it can easily be crossed from one side to the other to reach the lake Aflatun at the confluence with another valley. But before talking about this lake, giving a description of other passes of the Aflatun Valley (south side) to the west. The path to these passes is located along the river Utur (with a length of about 25 km), which flows into the Aflatun (south side) just above the village of Shuduger. The path along the river Utur is sometimes flooded, it is necessary to cross the river either wading or on some two or three bridges installed by farmers. From the village of Shuduger after 15-17 km of trail we reach the confluence of the Utur and Tuyukchi (1650 m). To go up though the Utur Valley you have to turn left (direction of the rise) to get to the top of the river Itokar (It-Agar on the map). The transition from the Utur valley to Kashka-Suu West River (Padshaata River basin or Padysha-Ata on the map) is a fairly difficult pass called 30-letiya TTZ (30th anniversary of the tractor factory Tashkent). In the same area of the upper valley of the Utur, it is easier to go through the pass of "Tourists Omsk" located between the watersheds of Tuyukchi and Kashka-Suu, just up the valley of the tributary of Tuyukchi. So near that confluence with the left tributary Tuyukchi begins the route of access to the Aflatun West Pass. The barely perceptible trail first goes along the tributary on the right bank through a spruce forest, then moves on the left bank formed by scree and again crossing the deeper forest, sometimes getting lost a little bit in the tall grass. At 1.5 km from the mouth, the valley is blocked by a wall on which the river cascade. The waterfall can be bypassed through the diversion of a rocky corridor left (compulsory insurance with a rope). Above the gorge is still enclosed between high walls, and soon it opens on a large sloping valley filled with avalanche debris.

The comb of the pass is already visible before reaching the snow slopes in the upper part of the valley. The pass is on the left bank of the valley, with a steep bank at foot, and near the top of the vertical section of rock and scree rise up to 40 m in which winds the trail to finally get out on the ridge to the pass Aflatun West (3370 m, 1B). From the pass we see a northeastern peak which is a renowned tourist destination called "The Castle of Count" (4060 m, Zamok Ckazok). At the eastern end of the circus is the “Sunny Pass”, first climbed by hikers of Tashkent and of difficulty 2A (altitude 3620 m). On the north side of the Chatkal ridge below you cross a snowy circus and beyond appears the trail down the valley. The latter forms a hollow glacial U directed straight to the north, and joins Lake Aflatun (north slope of Chatkal). The length of the Chatkal ridge to the Lake is about 10 km. This lake was formed by the accumulation of sediments of a left tributary, which blocked the course of Aflatun. It's just at the north end of the lake that appears the mouth of the river out of rocks, a powerful surge of water into the Aflatun. The valley continues with the same look beyond Lake. The river and its tributaries flow on various small flat land surrounded on all sides by high walls. On the steep cliffs cling grows spruce and juniper. Few kilometers downstream a lake on Aflatun is located at a sharp turn in the northwest valley. This lake is located at the foot of a narrow slot of smoothed limestone and blocks the passage. To pass through you must be on the edge with water up to his knees. After the valley widens slightly, but it still takes a wild character. Clifftop flowing waterfalls can be seen all around. Despite the very sunken nature between high slopes, the valley floor is covered with trees and shrubs. It takes time to move downstream until the track begins to rise on a buttress to bypass a narrowed area. Then the trail continues down the river to Chatkal through a very gentle slope. The confluence forms a vast plateau with beautiful abundant herbaceous vegetation, a privileged place for jailoo where there are yurts of shepherds and sheeps. From there you can see the northwestern edge of the Sandalash Chain. On this plateau are the main trails leading to various parts of the Northwest side of Chatkal. Of the main runway, almost parallel to the Chatkal ridge, stands trails ranging to deep valleys of tributaries Taldybulak and Tegerek-say. Another trail of 18-20 km distance rise directly since Aflatun towards the Blue pass (Goluboï, 3100 m, 1A) to go down in the Kara-Toko Valley on the opposite side. At this point begins the trail of Kokuy-Bel pass (3036.6 m). The valley of Kara-Toko have beautiful terraces: both sides are covered with spruce, juniper, and near water birch and various shrubs. The trail goes up the Kara-Toko valley on the left bank. The trail is located high on the sides, through the pine forests of the Tien-Shan. It is quite far from the river, under the cliffs. Only in the vicinity of the confluence with the left tributary of Karatoko the Ishenkul we back down on the bed of Kara-Toko. Here in the valley is a beautiful blue lake from rock material dam, extending from east to west, 650-700 m wide. Upstream of the valley of Kara-Toko, there are also several small lakes that lines a distance of 5-6 km. For Lake Kara-Toko the presence of successive landslides on mountain sides is responsible for its appearance. Its length varies from one bank to another 1.5 to 2.5 km with a width of about 500 m. High cliffs fall directly to the water on the north shore and south steep scree just soften onto the lake shore. The head of the lake is fed by two tributaries. These tributaries originate in the glaciers of the north-west slopes of the Chatkal ridge. Now back to the mouth of the river Ishenkul. Here the trail goes on an inconspicuous route to overcome an obstruction in the valley. Few kilometers upstream there are two major lakes roughly

equal. They are connected by a narrow channel flowing between high rock"gates". There is also a small lake below on a sloping area which is about 6 km from the mouth. The lower rocky canyon widened gradually into a glacial valley of basin-shaped with a rich alpine vegetation. At the end of the valley a circus superior lake is fed by melt water from a small hanging glacier. The rise of the mouth to the circus Ishenkul takes 4 hours, but it takes another 1.5 hours to reach the crest of Chatkal itself. The route that starts from the circus keeps along a very steep slope detrital rocks. It can be used if needed a lifeline. The slope has some snow ledge on the side of the Ishenkul-say than can be bypassed around the right side of the pass. Mountaineers of Tashkent gave this pass the same name Kara-Toko (3670 m, 2A). Direct descent from the pass is impossible: the scree gully end in impassable rock bars. It is best to go right along a small corridor of loose rocks and to achieve the descent on a steep scree mixed firn, below one reach a grassy slope and again a scree which ultimately goes down a snow field to the Aflatun-East Pass. The Itokar River (named It-Agar on the map, pouring Ferghana), right tributary of Aflatun, does not directly originates on the slopes of the main ridge of the Chatkal. It begins on the southeastern slopes of one of his spurs (North-South oriented practically starting from the highest peak of Chatkal, Peak 4503) from the peak 4340 m (or 4268 on the map) the highest on the eastern slopes of the highest crests of the mountains. The geographical position of the source results in limiting the spread of the watershed of the river. The source comes from two small glaciers with a total area 0.63 km2, oriented to the northeast. The Itokar flows into the Aflatun near the village of the same name. A beaten dirt track goes along the left bank of the river, passing first village Itokar (It-Agar on the map) and upstream several small villages in the shade of fruit trees. Gradually, the valley narrows and the dirt track often goes from one bank to another, and will eventually reach closer to the bed of the river and the rocks of the gorge, just 20 meters. These "gates" far downstream, soon upstream leave to a broader valley, where the road goes up the right bank. Here is the house of forest guards. Before the house of the guard is the mouth of the right tributary Baba-Ata-say of the Itokar. Its valley is closed by two distinct peaks and low altitude: the Koksarai (2605 m) and the Baba-Ata (2463 m). Crossing the minor passes close to these peaks, one can easily reach the Padshaata Valley (Padisha-Ata). In the valley, the road to Itokar has several branches leading to pasture (jailoo) where shepherds raising sheep and horses and come down with horse milk. The place is famous for its Koumiss (fermented mare's milk). The road ends near the spot where the valley narrows and begins the gorge of the river. It is located on the right side of the river with beautiful trees. The trail leads through a forest of spruce on the lateral ridge that descends on the basin of the river Padshaata (or PadishaAta) by its left tributary the Dzhol-Bakana. On top of Itokar Valley can also reach the sources of Utur, the Chetty-say and Kashka-suu. The latter two rivers are also in the Padshaata basin (or Padisha-Ata). The Padshaata collects its water from the southern slope of the Chatkal range, starting directly from the ridge, where the peaks are over 4300 m. The relatively large crest height justifies the presence here of small glacier with a total area of about 2 km2. This mountainous region Padisha-Ata watershed is composed mainly of limestone, to a lesser extent sandstone, conglomerate and shale, a mixture of solid rock outcrops and detrital talus area. In the upper part of the valley, numerous tributaries are encumbered erosive materials, surface grains of the rocks. The river itself belongs to the Syr Darya basin but their waters do not flow to Ferghana valley, because they are mainly used for irrigation. In the plain 5 km from the village of Nanay was at the time the 1970s a campsite"Koksarai" near

the office of the regional council of tourism and excursions of Namangan. Bypassing the campsite, a dirt road leads to the village of Kara-Bashat. The village is also accessible by car from the right bank of Padisha-Ata from Nanay. The Nanay-Kara-Bashat route also crosses the right tributaries of Padisha-Ata (Ulanbulak, Tocty, etc.). We can climb by paths to the various sources of these rivers behind which, on the lateral ridge, is the basin of the river Chanach. The road ends at Mazar "saint" of Padshaata (Muslim place of pilgrimage). Here begins the pedestrian part of the road. A bridge crosses to the right bank of the river and it rises about 500 meters, staying in the shade of birch trees on the roadside. The groves of Padshaata is scarce upstream and rocks are closer to the water. Fallen stones from the upper slopes have blocked the river, causing a flow of turbulent and roaring water. The transition is not long, just a kilometer of gorge whose local name is Kapchugay. The trail runs along sometimes one or the other side via bridges specially designed for visitors (hikers and pilgrims). After 25 minutes of walk either side of the gorge the mouth of a left tributary is reached, the Dzholbakan, that one may takes. 1 km further on the Dzholbakan there is still a river fork. Following the path of the left tributary our walk leads us into the Itokara Valley. Continuing straight on Dzholbakan logically one can reach the sources of the river It-Agar (or Itokar), but nobody seems to be going through this place for which we do not have information. Two kilometers upstream from Padysha-Ata, a path turns to the right tributary, the Myn-Dzhilki (or Myng-Dzhilki on the map), the water flow is almost equal to that of Padysha-Ata. The confluence is located at an altitude of 1760 m, where a path takes up the Mynzhilki Valley (across with a bridge possibly slightly upstream of Padysha-Ata). The alluvial plain of Padysha-Ata is covered by groves of spruce, fir, birch closer to the water and bushes. The trail is well develop, from one bank to the other by successive bridges constructed by local people. Further the trail continues on the right bank, going up sharply over the river on the slopes, to overcome a closure in the valley. Above the last bridge crossing upstream, a path continues to the valley of the River Chetty-say, and provides connections to the sources of Itokar river by the passage of a pass in the hills. Near the mouth of the river Chetty-say there are camps of shepherds and farmers. Along the Padisha Ata valley, the trail continues to climb on the right bank. The river now flows in a wide valley to the first fairly sweet side slopes, then gradually turns to the north. An hour and a half walk from the mouth of Chetty-say while there is virtually no elevation, there is a beautiful pine forest, where you can build a very nice camp (2095 m) for the night. Let us named it “The Sapineraie”. From the camp of “sapineraie”, it only takes 40 minutes to reach the confluence of the rivers Kashka-Suu (west) and Muztor at the origin of the Padisha-Ata River. Above the confluence stand immense rock towers into vertiginous walls where water gushed ending onto the steep grassy slopes, overgrown with bushes and huge trees. The altitude of the confluence is about 2200 m. The two sources of Padisha-Ata are similar in size and quantity of water. At the confluence the river Muztor goes northwest and Kashka-Suu- west River to the northeast. The relatively broad valley of the Kashka-Suu-West River gives the impression to be able to easily move upon it, but it is only an appearance, because the steep upper slopes and landslides converging together have rendered the valley floor relief almost impassable, especially when the waters of the river are high. Therefore, it is preferable to enter the top of the Kashka-suu-west valley, around the gorges of the Shaar-say River (north branch of the river Muztor). So at the confluence of rivers the trail runs along the right bank of the river Muztor, away immediately from the water to bypass the small river. The crossing of the river is at a distance of 2

km upstream, while it is necessary to cross the waters of Muztor three times, with the last jump at the mouth of the Shaar-say in the Muztor. Here the river is compressed between two huge rocks, causing quite an important water flow. Above the river crossing the path climbs straight up the Shaar-say gorge and then disappears under the rocks (above a resurgence). So here we must continue quietly above the stony bed, which forms during 150-170 m successive smooth jumps on flattened rocks either with no vegetation or a little herbaceous one. Beyond the trail takes slightly to the left (direction of the rise), along the foothills separating the valleys of Shaar-say and Muztor. The Shaar-say trail winds along the left bank near the bedrock. Above the water reappears under rocks and comes to the surface in some places. Gradually the trail flattens on the slope to carry us on a large flat surface, where one find the jaïloos and camps of the Shepherds (2860 m). To the east is clearly visible a pass to return in the Kashka-Suu-West River Valley. After passing the pass (3308 m), the trail crosses the numerous foothills of the main ridge of the Chatkal, down to the Kashka-suu-west river. From the heights, then you can see the areas that have been bypassed downstream to the confluence of the Kashka-suu-west and Muztor: the path descends to 6 km to reach the valley upstream. Here the valley is wide, with a flat relief and no vegetation (2800 m). The trail climbs gently along the right bank of the Kashka-suu-west river. The river on the right bank has no tributaries, however left bank there are several streams from small glaciers of the northern slope of a lateral ridge of Chatkal, behind which are the upstream sources of Itokara (ItAgar) and of Utur rivers. Kashka-suu-west valley becomes steeper before dealing with the first snow fields: we are at the river sources. The upper valley became a huge circus filled with snowfields, talus and small nestled glaciers exposed in the north or in the south-east corner. On the north side of the circus, Altitude peaks 4369 m (North-East), 4235m (North West) and 4100 m darken the slopes and the pass of “Omsk tourists” is located south. Peak 4100m serves as a reference point to identify because the circus has several buttresses. Access to the pass of “Omsk tourists” is simple (from a moraine and then a steep scree), but it takes about 2.5-3 hours. On the eastern side of slope, the downhill takes a long scree before entering a sunken circus and joining the Tuyukchi River which flows mostly to the south (about 6 km), sometimes by narrow passages blocked by snow. On this site the river Tuyukchi is quite turbulent, it is sometimes necessary to cross or run down small waterfalls, sometimes interspersed with sections of snowfields a little steep (up to 60-70°). After, Tuyukchi valley turns to the south and widens. That was when gooseberry bushes, raspberry and woody vegetation appear. After 5-6 km Tuyukchi merged with the Utur river. It's a summer pasture location (jailoo) used by shepherds that we have already mentioned before, it is located on the left side of dry bedrock. Here the trail climbs about 1 km, then turn left and continue in a direction parallel to the ridge. From there you can walk along the river for about 2.5 hours quietly without really track to climb up to the watershed of the Kuru-say River. In the upper part east of the pass, there is a small glacier that feeds the lake. The access road can be seen from a distance view. That pass on the watershed line can be classified as a 1B cotation difficulty at an altitude of about 3600 m. The trail, which runs through the rocky bed of Shaar-say, about 100 m above the cliffs turn left (direction of the rise), a short time parallel to the main ridge of the mountain then gradually rises on a buttresses, which ends in a rocky area. On the way to the next buttress we will reach one of the torrents of Shaar-say, the origin comes from the eternal snows above. Before reaching a place 40 meters from the cliff, a poorly marked trail turns right to go up a scree corridor, another foothill and go up again to climb a corridor to the altitude of 3370 m where a small source is located. Thence in a half-hour climb on a rocky path (sometimes it gets lost in the scree) trail reaches the pass of Shaar. The altitude of the pass is 3600 m, and its difficulty is 1A, but when it remains snow it can be classified 1B.

The pass is rather narrow, covered with a thin gray detrital layer. The trail on the other side goes steep to the center of the source circus of the river Kurpyrildy whose slopes are covered with thin layer of scree. Well below the start of the river bed, the track will reappear on the right bank. Finally, let us describe the rise of the Muztor River Valley to its source, a tributary of Padisha-Ata. In the valley the trails split, one starting into the rocky gorges of Shaar-say and the other in the upper reaches of Muztor. At this point it is possible to find a good place to camp or bivouac. One found on the first heights of slopes sufficient firewood. On opposite side, the right bank steeply down to the water and as the trail crosses on the left bank for 1 km, you have to cross the river ford. In addition, the appearance of the valley changes: on the left bank walls are steep and full of scree, on the right bank instead grow spruce, fir, and the track winds through tree groves. In the main stream of the river in many places scattered boulders formed a succession of rapids and waterfalls. At an altitude of about 2700 m, the forest ends and the path goes into a big scree area in which runs steep switchbacks all along the river for about 1.5 km away. In the wider part of the valley the Muztor flows into several branches, sometimes narrow, compressed by the rocks, where the river roared and foam. The path to bypass the various waterfalls of the river, sometimes has to rise far above the water. It takes about two hours to get from the mouth of the Shaar-say into the upper JaĂŻloos on the river Muztor. Here, at an altitude of 3000 m the river has a small tributary, which winds up on the mountain heights to Muztor-II pass (also called on map the Myng Dzhilki pass, possible contradiction between the original edition and the topographic map). It is necessary to take the left bank of the tributary to reach this pass for about two hours. 500 m before the ridge the trail becomes broader, used by cattle, which can reach in 30 minutes and safely Muztor-II pass (3490 m, 1A). From this point you can descend into the basin of the river Myng-Dzhilki. The main stream of Muztor river continues to move towards the west. At a height of 3100-3200 m the first snowfields we encounter above the river flows in a smooth channel into the rock. The trail ends here. It is better to move higher on the right bank. The river Muztor comes from the left tongue a glacier (Kung-Tor on the map), which is pretty flat. In this gently sloping glacier, one can walk safely without fear of cracks and crevasses. The glacier length is 2.4 km, the surface of 1,2 km2, its highest point is at 3990 m. The line of permanent snowfields is located at an altitude of 3810 m. The glacier is named Keng-Tor. To the west and north, it is closed by high walls, from which fall numerous avalanches. The whole glacier tend to move more strongly on the left bank, where there are more thrusted debris and moraines. On the left bank of the glacier, there are glacial lakes. On the western slope is present hanging glaciers cascading on the wall of about 100 m wide, sometimes up to 250 m. The body of the glacier gradually turns to the north, at the foot of the Peak 4217 m. From slopes of this summit as those of the other peaks, many avalanches in the sector thrusted the rocks on the entire surface of the glacier. To explore the upper reaches of the river Myng-Dzhilki, we must return to its confluence with the River Padisha-Ata (1800m). The path to the pass starts there on the left bank of Myng-Dzhilki for 1 km, then crosses to the right bank by a bridge. Before the bridge, there is on the right side a large camping area, where it is easy to establish for a night. Over the bridge, on the right bank a path can reach towards the Tostu River Valley through a pass at 3000 m. On the trail of Myng-Dzhilki one must ford the river several times even with bridges or wading. The valley is very beautiful with green birch groves at the edge of the water, groves of spruce, fir, mulberry and raspberry on the slopes. One can also meet shepherds camps. A 14-15 km from the mouth to the Padysha-Ata, on the left there is a beautiful waterfall with a height of about 30 m and just upstream of the canyon begins Myng-Dzhilki Canyon. The rocky

cliffs are around sometimes up to 500 m high and the rivers comprises waterfalls of 10-15 m, in wihch water bubbles and foam. The course of the river is full of huge rocks produced by landslides, between which the river makes its path. The valley trail turns right and climbs on a dry track (westbound) after 2 km you turn left (northbound) and begin a long climb in a valley. The trail climbs almost 1,000 meters vertically for almost 5 km on a winding and steep path. The trail leads to Koshanarka pass, at the altitude of almost 3200 m. From the pass we then see the sources of Myng-Dzhilki river. The top of the mountains form a jagged ridge, sharply divided. While the upper course of the river is visible, it extends about 2.5 km away. Somewhere in the middle of the high valley there is a tributary that flows into the impenetrable part of the valley (which we have by pass using the pass). Far down below, where the valley widens a little, you can see the hardly noticeable encampment of shepherds. The trail leads to that camp through a buttress. The high-mountainous circus of Myng-Dzhilki is bordered by the sources of the rivers (west to east from the north): Chanach, Aksu and Karagayly Muztor. The first three belong to the watershed of Chatkal, while Muztor is on the watershed of the Naryn (Syr Darya). There are passes that allow access to the valleys of the Aksu and Chanach. The pass of Myng-Dzhilki meanwhile connects Myng-Dzhilki River with headwaters of the river Karagayly, slightly behind the north. This pass is estimated difficulty 1B at an altitude of about 3800 m. On the north side of the Chatkal ridge, rocky descent is steeper. It must be bypassed on the right crossing the rocks, to avoid the steep slope. Beyond after about 1 km downhill the track reappears and goes down to the river and the Chatkal basin. From the bottom of the upper valley of Myng-Dzhilki, starting from jaĂŻloos and going east, you have 2.5 hours to climb up Muztor-II Pass. To the west of the Padysha-Ata river whose basin is distinguished by several high peak exceeding 4200 m, some peaks still reach 4000 m. That is particularly the case of the flowing Chanach River basin to the south (Syr Darya basin) as distinguished from the east flowing river Chanach (the Chatkal basin). It is not uncommon that rivers shared the same pass as the same name as well as those of the pass itself. Much of the dowstream of the Chanach River is a dry bed, because the river is largely used for crop irrigation in the Ferghana Valley. The Chanach basin (south) starts from the main ridge of the mountains of Chatkal, where altitudes reach up to 4100 m, and extends over 40 km on a narrow strip Valley (3-6 km) to the region Southeast (Ferghana valley). As basins of neighboring rivers, Chanach presents a wide variety of rocks and diverse geology. In the top half of the valley is limestone, down they are solidified sandstones and conglomerates. About a third of the watershed is occupied by outcrops of rocks and landslides areas. Only a small part of the basin is truly wooded, the rest of the region is rather covered by herbaceous vegetation especially on the lower river and stony slopes of the upper reaches of the river. The trail goes up the valley Chanach is very convenient, even if it is particularly long from downstream in the plain, with the possibility of partially back into the vehicle on the dirt track to the last villages. Beyond the route the trail climbs and sometimes meanders among chaos. It was only on the upper course of the river at altitude, that we can found small snowfields. About 3 km after the trail splits into two branches: the path to the left leads to the pass Karaterek, right this leads to Chanach pass. The pass of Chanach (3100 m, 1A listing) can reach the two rivers of the same name (which has already been mentioned). On the way down the side of the Chatkal basin, first found crawling

bushes and shrubs along the slopes and the first trees, vegetation contrasts with the drier southern slope. The descent is steep then gradually softened, with occasional snow fields and snow bridges over the river. Huge boulders were scattered here and there in the bed of the river and valley. Above the limestone terrain are dizzying and sharp teeth. Lowest it appear solidified sandstone, forming bizarre shapes from the erosion of time. Everything is tormented as the rocky relief gives to the valley a wild and picturesque appearance. Then the valley becomes narrower, wider space remains on the gentle slopes of the southern slope covered with beautiful meadows, great place for summer pasture for the many herds of sheep. The path runs along the valley floor, occasionally bordering cliffs, or skirting the foothills from the top. On the slopes there are hundreds of animal paths, goats and other livestock, and almost all cattle, sheep and goats have grazed the vegetation. All of this contrasts sharply with the bottom of the valley, which is extensively invaded by lush vegetation of trees. Soon the Chanach river reaches the Chatkal Valley. The second pass over the Chanach River (south) leads to the basin of the Karaterek River, which flows into the Chatkal almost parallel to the Chanach River (west). The altitude of Karaterek pass is 3488 m, it is listed in difficulty 1A. The Karaterek Valley is very similar to that just a little north of Chanach (east river): steep slopes on the north side, a little more gentle slopes to the south, and left tributaries constituting the essential bulk of the water system. The Chanach West Valley that we have just described is the most central region of the Chatkal Mountains. It is characterized by high mountains roughness that have a very important difference in height between the low and high areas over a short distance, a large heterogeneity of relative heights regardless of the absolute heights. The average height of the peak is 3500 meters. However, the height reached peaks, 4236 m near the Chanach river, is only 3200 meters upstream of Kasansay Akhangaran and rivers. The main local river watersheds are perpendicular to the direction of the main Chatkal ridge. A very high lateral spur (over 4300 m) distinguish watersheds of Ala-Buka river and Terek-say river, they are overcome by a whole series of peaks between 3500 m and 4000 m most of the time. At the southern tip of this ridge lies the Karakyr mountain (3929 m), where begins a major tributary of the River Kasan-say, the Uryukty (Oryukty on the map). It should be noted here that all the rivers that begin on the southern side of the range of Chatkal, from the river Chanach to the river Chapchama, come flocking to the Kasan-say River. This is why it is necessary to say a few words about this Kasan-say River. It begins at the articulation of Chatkal Mountains (south-west) and Kuramin (south), but unlike most of the major rivers, flowing either parallel to the main ridge or perpendicular, the Kasan-say itself flows from west to east and then downstream to the southeast and south gradually to reach the Ferghana irrigation area. In Kasan-say River valley between the mouth of the Alabuki (Ala-Buka) and Uryukty (Oryukty) was constructed in 1947 downstream on the valley plains, the tank of Ortotokoïskoe (from Kasansay). It is also about the same time that people built along the same river a road to Chapchama Pass allowing access to the Chatkal Valley. On this route often pass trucks and passenger buses. And due to this road, the mouths of all the Kasan-say tributaries can be easily reached. In this area of the range of Chatkal between Karaterek and Chapchama rivers, passes are of "modest elevation”: AkTash (3011 m 1A), the Kanysh-Kiya (3089 m, 1A), the Kanysh-Tor (3287 m, 1A), the Tullay-Berdy, the Tiuz-Ashuu (3470 m, 1A), the Kochkor-Ata (3275 m, 1A) and finally the Chapchama (2808 m). The Alabuka River (left tributary) flows into Kasan-say, 1.8 km downstream of Ortotokoïskoe tank. In the central part of the valley, on the right bank, in the basin of the rivers Ak- Baltyrkan-say and Kum-Bel-say is the Ak-Baltyrkan lake with an area of 0.1 km². According to geologists, it was

formed as a result of karst phenomena: erosion forming goufres, fillings with partial collapses. The blue color waters of the lake will then join the Ala-Buka River from and underground network. In the watershed Ala-Buka there many underground sources and resurgences. The valley of the Ala-Buka River is particularly interesting for hikers due to the presence of old minerals mines on the heights of the mountain Misken (3327), along the trail up to the Chanach River Valley (by the valley of the Karaganty-say and Misken 3327). There is also another path via the valley of Chalchi-say towards the Uryukty, its following left tributary of Kasan-say. The rivers Uryukty (Oryukty) and Kainsu have their sources on the southern foothills of the Chatkal, away from the main ridge, so we limit ourselves to mention it in this guide without going into detail. The Kasan-say river as sizeable river approaches the main crest of Chatkal, but its left tributaries tend to decrease steadily in length along the watershed, heading west. If the length of the Terek River reached almost 25-27 km, the length of the river Chapchama (along the road pass of the same name) is only 4 to 4,5 km. The vast majority of rivers comes from gentle relief on their headwaters, with only very few visible outcrops. Many passes of this part of Chatkal are used by sheperds for transhumance between the Ferghana Valley (winter pasture) and Chatkal valley (summer pasture). It is therefore not surprising that passes are easy to access. So, up the valley of the Terek river to its source we pass the Ak-Tash Pass 3011 meters (1A) to join the Kara-Terek River in the Chatkal basin. In addition there is also the Kanysh-Kiya pass (3089 m, 1A) which connects the Terek valley and the Kanysh-Kiya-say river. The last two valleys are also connected by the pass of Kanyshtor (3287 m, 1A), which is also called Kachal-Tor. Valleys of the same name are connected on both sides of the range of Chatkal, for example by Tullay-Berdy pass between the two valleys north and south Tullay-Berdy-say, or the Tiuz-Ashu pass ( 3470 m, 1A) between the two valleys north and south Tiuz-Ashu-say. When we go up the Kasan-say valley to the mouth of Zen-say (Zek-say on the map) and upstream via the foothills of the Kochkor-Ata valley trail crosses the ridge by Kochkor-Ata pass (3275 m) towards the Chatkal Valley. A similar path in the same valley follows a upper right tributary and crosses the ridge by an unnamed pass to the Chatkal. A road along the Kasan-say then rises towards the main Chatkal ridge and achieves to reach the Chapchama Pass (2808 m), and descends to the Chatkal River Valley.

The south-western part of the range of Chatkal Mapping 100,000 th: k42-092, k42-093, k42-104, k42-105; 200,000 th: k42-22, k42-23, k42-28, k42-29 The western Chatkal is a mountainous region closest to Tashkent city, this part is in fact now almost entirely in Uzbekistan, only the northernmost and easternmost parts are in actual Kyrgyzstan. The southwestern part of the range of Chatkal from the Arashan valley is named Ak-Too ("white mountain"), probably due to the gray color of the rocks of the ridge (syenite-diorite, plutonic rocks), unlike the red rocks of the upper part of the Arashan valley. The main ridge circumscribing the basins of rivers Akhangaran to the south and Akbulak on the north, and the same (about 30 km) it borders the northwest plateau of Angren. The majority of rocks are of granitic type. The south side of the ridge are generally gentle slopes. Summits rise above the snowline, but hardly exceed 4000 m. Not very well divided, these summits in some places are almost even smoothed. In some places along the ridge, in summer you can still see snow fields that clings to the slopes on the shaded platform and bowls of small valleys. Southeast of Ertash River (or Yertash), an offshoot of the southern range of the Chatkal form the Babaytag Peak (3555 m, just north of the city of Angren), which is also called Babaj-Ata. The mountain forms the crest separation between Ahangaran basin and tributaries of the Chatkal, firstly of North orientation, then who turns to the west, upon a distance of 25 km, while the average height is 3200 m. The watershed ends at Peak Kyzylnura (3533 m or 3267 m on the map) just east of Tashkent. Our description of alpine hiking trails in the western part of the Chatkal starts at Angren, accessible by suburb trains from Tashkent or bus. The valley of Angren has long been famous for its economic prosperity. As the name suggests, its prosperity comes from the mining of metals (Angren is a variation of the word "Ahangaran" meaning "blacksmith"). The oldest mines can still see by the huge pile of rock, slag mountains, and to some extent a consequence of its industrious past, the almost total absence of woody vegetation on the slopes of the valley, although at other older historical periods, vegetation was reasonably powerful and rich. The Angren-Kokand road gradually rises on the right bank of the river Ahangaran, through a number of villages and approaches a catering establishment and tea house. Not far away is the mouth of a major tributary of the Ahangaran, the Ertash river. Above the gorge of the river is located the eponymous village of Ertash, downstream from the village is the mouth of a small tributary the Kyzylcha. A dirt track goes up on the heights of the Kyzylcha valley to the weather station of Kyzylcha. Above the village of Ertash, the mountain becomes wilder. The main rocks that form the gorges are granites and porphyries, and often it hides powerful sedimentary layers. At 4-5 km from the village, the river separates and on a right tributary a path of 10-12 km starts from a spur to the main Chatkal ridge (direction Northwest). In the upper part of the valley the environment becomes colder. After reaching the pass on the range of Chatkal, we arrive at the top of the sources of Aksu River (Dukent-say basin) and it was not only after a second ascent of the Adamtash pass (2695 m) that one reaches the basin of the river Akbulak. Although the altitude of the pass is well below the average height of the pass on the range of Chatkal, access is difficult in a chaotic terrain: it is a succession of crossing of small torrents hosted in almost impassable gorges or fordable but with great difficulty.

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For the reaching of Adamtash pass, there is another path along Dukent-say valley. Returning to Angren, take the northern route that leads to the mountain resort Yangiabad (18 km by road from Angren). It is a village location of a campsite, and the Regional Council for tourism and excursions of Tashkent (Soviet era). The trail to climb to the pass Adamtash begins on Katta-say River (a left tributary of the Dukent-say), upstream there one discover the ruins of the ancient village of Gayn. The trail follows the upper slopes of the left bank of the river, sometimes down to reach the water. We cross several small tributaries along the way. At the confluence of Katta-say river and the Aksu River, we encounter the ruins of a hunting lodge. Here in a nearby clearing, it is a good camp for the night. From the pasture to the Adamtash pass remains about 15 km walk. The Aksu valley looks like a rather narrow valley, often flooded and strewn with rocks of different sizes streaked by tree roots. One will have to ford several times the river to bypass a rocky cliff overhang above the right bank. Beyond the walking becomes quiet in a smooth pasture (jailoo), where the first pass is already visible. The trail runs along the slopes, through this pass, to achieve in the basin of the river Ertash and then merges with the path from this Ertash valley (described just before), turns sharply left (direction of the rise) crosses through the upper part of the Aksu valley and rises steeply to the Adamtash pass (2693 m, 1B). For the descent, after 10 km along the river Tavak-say, the trail turns to the Northwest to go up to the Tavak-say pass (2600 m) and immediately began a brief descent to the valley of the River Kurykty (always toward Northwest direction). But after 1 km, the trail begins a continuous climb to reach the Kurykty pass (2600 m) and back down to the Karabuzuk-say River. Here there is a trail crossing: one path goes downstream of Karabuzuk-say valley, the other goes towards the northwest to reach the Revasht Pass (2550 m) and the river of the same name Revasht-say which also merged later with the Karabuzuk. From here to Maydantal river basin (large and small, Bolchoi and Malinky) (15-17 km), it is necessary to perform successive crossings of buttresses, climbs and descents, crossing and wading of streams with higher altitude gain, which sometimes reaches 500 m. Once reached the Maydantal plateau, rivers therethrough dug deep canyons, usually almost impassable. Since the Dukent-say river basin (to the south), the Maydantal plateau is also accessible through the pass of Muzbel (3053 m, 1B), this by going up the right tributary of Dukent-say, the Alamangua river. On its headwaters, the river carries traces of ancient glaciers, and on the crest in early summer, there may still be some snow ledges. The path of the pass Muzbel takes this common side ridge and above the valley of one of a rights tributaries of Akhangaran river, the Karabay. We are here near a nature reserve created in 1947 with an area of 35,255 hectares, "The Nature Reserve of Chatkal mountain forest". Within its limits it consists of several separate sections, that of Bohkyzyl-say and that of Maydantal. In areas of Uchat, the Polathan, the Great and Small Maydantal valleys were established protected wildlife breeding sites. The highest Peak of the Boshkyzyl-say area is the Peak Kyzylnura (3267 m) where on its southwestern slopes born the Boshkyzyl-say river (or Bashkyzyl-say on the map). The watershed area of the river is bordered by several mountains the Taqali Peak (2763 m), the Peak Kurgantash (2992 m), the Peak Hola or HovlaĂŻ (2751 m), at the foot of which 1,000 m lower elevation is the Floodplain of Boshkyzyl-say. The Kyzylnura peak has the appearance of a steep slope covered with small debris scree and rocky outcrops of red porphyry. Its eastern slope is a gentler slope covered with pasture. The Mountain Taqali stands on the watershed line between Boshkyzyl-say River (west) and Shavaz-say River (east) and it looks like the saddle of a pass. The Taqali is easy to distinguish even at a great distance. North of Boshkyzyl-say is the River Basin of Parkent-say (from the city name of Parkent).

The main river of the site Maydantal in the reserve is the Serkeli-say (Akbulak River Basin, apparently called Terekli-say on the map), which receives water from various tributaries: the Tavaksay, the Zymnan-say, the Terek-say, the Tashkesken (right), the Kara-Buzuk-say and Revash-say (left). These tributaries are very turbulent, their banks are steep and rocky. Their beds are rocks, gravel and rocks, waterfalls and erosion dug many pots. The topography of the nature reserve and the special nature of soils formed a particularly interesting flora (over 600 species of herbaceous plants and 40 species of trees and shrubs) in which several varieties are endemic to the area of Chatkal and western Tien-Shan mountains. The Maydantal sector is vegetally of birch dominance, which can be found in all the valleys and the surrounding hills. Some birch groves are mixed with apple trees, poplars and Tal. On river's bank, grow blackberry bushes and on the wetlands slopes some plum-cherry. In the belt of Boshkyzyl-say area steppe grassland grows where one can find pistachio trees. In the scree and rocky slopes of river banks grow a local Asian white variety of hackberry. In altitude, alpine area, area of steep cliffs, around the jagged peaks all are poor in vegetation. The fauna of the reserve is similar to other mountainous regions of Central Asia. The most common species are the wild boar and the ibex. Over the years, the deer population has increased in the reserve. In wooded areas and shrub one encounter bears and is just above in altitude an endemic variety of marmot, unique to Western Tien-Shan, named in the IUCN classification "Mamotta menzbieri". It is also often encounter stoats, hedgehogs, foxes, weasels, martens and badgers. Among the birds, there is partridge of the mountains of Tien-Shan (partridge Daooria) and Snowcock (variety of Grand Tetras). There are many varieties of columbine (pigeons), closer to the water is preserved paradise flycatchers (long tail) and “Remezy”. There are also other birds as: hummingbirds, wagtails, orioles, woodpeckers, cuckoos and rocks nuthatches. In the highlands there are several species of raptors birds: griffins, vultures, black vultures, eagles, bearded dwarves and kestrels. Among the reptiles are lizards of the desert (gologlaz), water snakes, a variety of viper snake near Moccasin (very poisonous). Among the fish are common Marinka (Latin name Schizothorax orientalis, red carp), trout, Turkestan catfish (silure), loach of the Amu Darya. The area of the reserve also includes some archaeological evidence of human activity: cave paintings and traces of mining activities in antiquity. To get a better idea of the nature reserve, we advise you to visit the Museum. To visit this reserve, one must obtain a special permit entry. To reach the natural reserve route is very simple: just an hour and a half by bus from Tashkent to the town of Parkent at the central farm park office. North of the Kyzylnura massif the ridge of Chatkal practically ends with the silhouette of the Peak of Great Chimgan (Bolshoi Chimgan, 3276 m or 3309 m). We will describe the routes around this ridge and we will finish well on the information on the range of Chatkal. One can take a regular bus from Tashkent to Burchmulla through several localities, Chirchik, Gazalkent and several other villages. It takes 2.5 hours to drive you to the base camp "Chimgan" where is the Regional Council of Tourism and excursions Tashkent (Soviet Era). South of the base camp (Chimgan village) is one of the foothills of the Great Chimgan where an old mining trail leads to the pass of Tahta-Djaïlau (1988 m). The descent from the pass encounters a marbled river and the trail then climbs a dry ravine near the pass of Urta-Kumbel (Kumbel-I Pass on the map 1880 m). In half an hour, it is possible to climb to the pass and then down to the river Shovkonsu where is located a convenient platform camp on the left bank. Skirting the river, the trail

reaches the pass of Chet-Kumbel (Kumbel-II Pass on the map, 1910 m) and goes down into the upper part of the Nurekaty-say valley. Here, there is no vegetation, and many scree. One Chet-Kumbel pass (pass Kumbel-II on the map) one can continue to walk on left upon the ridge. After 50 minutes along the trail, you reach a cave drawings site. On the left there is indeed a group of stones with drawings of prehistoric man. On the beige background of these desert stones, dark marks are clearly visible, evoking silhouettes of goats, sheep, and other signs. A little further on, the trail descends to the sources of Nurekaty-say River dried up in summer, crosses several foothills and steep slopes towards the Tahta pass (2800 m). This pass is ranked 1B through the valley of the Kara-Archa-say and achieves the small Maydantal plateau. Now we will describe the first route to this pass. The trail crosses the Tahta pass, turn right, crosses the foothills to reach a fork of trails. From there, the path to the right goes along the ridge and the left goes down to the sources of Kara-Archa River. Gradually the valley narrows where appear here and there canyon waterfalls. To cross it, it is recommended to use a lifeline for rocky sections. From the descent of the Tahta pass until the first confluence of the Kara-Archa-say river it takes about 2.5 hours. At the mouth, the gorge becomes even narrower, more wild. The stones have blocked the riverbed in some places, forming numerous waterfalls. After getting around a section of the right bank, too steep, you can go down on this right bank using a safety rope. Further down the Kara-archa-say turns into a raging river with a very important altitude rank, the water rushes from one bank to the other, forcing to ford the river. After about 2.5 kilometers down the Kara-Archa-say takes the waters of its left tributary, the Aynovchukur-say, then the trail climbs the Komsomolets Pass (2900 m, 1B). After Aynovchukur-say tributary, downstream the Ustara-say river empties into the Kara-Archa-say. Between these two tributaries is a buttress on which the trail climbs to the Tumannyy pass(3000 m, 1B). The steep descent of the mountain by passes Komsomolets and Sypychiy Tumannyy winds through the boulders, sometimes through snowfields on the left bank of the river. At 8-10 km the trail diverges: on the right, the path takes the course of Mazar-say to the village of Yangi-Kurgan, while on the left the trail bypasses the gorge of the river Gulikam-say by the valley of the Kujlyuk-say. From here to the tourist center "Chimgan"of the village, one must then cross the Gulikam pass, or translated: the â&#x20AC;&#x153;sandâ&#x20AC;&#x153; pass (1838m). The Kara-archa River flows into the Akbulak, 5-6 km downstream from the mouth of the river Ustara-say. Near its mouth, hydrologists have sometimes stretched a rope that can be used to cross the river. Just above using the expansion of the river into several branches we can attempt the crossing of the Akbulak wading. However, when the waters of the river Akbulak are high fording is almost impossible. There is another way to get to the Tahta pass and Akbulak, a little easier, but almost twice as long. The path continues south from the heights of the Great Chimgan, then on the ridge (on a flat ridge there is still a petroglyph site), which then descends. The trails here are numerous. But they merge together and become a dusty dirt road leading to the lowest Maydantal plateau. 500m away from the mountain called Mynzhilki, there is a triangulation tripod on a rise and from there the trail goes left towards the Polathan plateau. From the Tahta pass onto the top of the mountain Mynzhilki, there are about 11 km. The Polathan plateau is a tabular mountain (with its highest point at 2630 m) and whose edges are steep, cut by deep ravines. In rocks there is many caves where wild pigeons teem.

From the Mynzhilki mountain, the trail descends on the foothills in the Serkeli valley (or seemingly Terekli-say on the map). This foothill divides the two basins of the Great-Maydantal and LittleMaydantal rivers. At about 2 km from the river, the trail splits: at right it went to the river Davansay (or Lavan-say on the map), which leads to Aktahta Pass (2280m) and further, the sources of the Aksakata river and at left goes down onto the Serkeli Valley (Terekli-say). On the main track of Serkeli (Terekli-say) there are many trails bordind and reaching the river, and some have been abandoned. It is necessary to choose the most convenient, now it seems to be the one most left (downhill direction). During the crossing, the trail encounters the dark gorges of Azol-say and Kyzylalma-say rivers before reaching the foot of Polathan plateau. Along the plateau, the trail continues down then up a new foothill and after 10-12 km quietly reaches the left bank of the river Serkeli (or seemingly Terekli-say on the map). A little further down, in the wider part of the stream, one must ford the river. The ford is located near the forest houses of the Chatkal Nature Reserve. From here starts the dirt road, mostly desert, which leads to the village of Burchmulla. If hikers were granted permission to visit the territory of the reserve, it is possible to make an interesting journey in the Tashkesken River Valley. For, it is necessary to return to the ford, back on the left bank of the river Serkeli (Terekli-say), to reach upstream the mouth of the river Tashkesken. Then you have to go up the valley of this river to penetrate completely on its upper course and achieve the Soyuz-50 pass (3800 m, 1B) which is the origins of the river and Valley of Kelimchek, opposite on the southern slope.

The Pskem Range Mapping 50 000th, k42-071-1, k42-071-2, k42-071-2, k42-071-4; 100 000th, k42-070, k42-071, k42-081, k42-082, k42-093 200 000 th k42-17, k42-18, k42-23. The crest of Pskem is a terminal chains of the Western Tien-Shan. It's a sister of other mountain ranges such as Ugam, Chatkal and the Sandalash. Part of its foothills is in Uzbekistan. The Pskem detaches from the most powerful main ridge of the Talas Ala-Too at the height of the Shilibili river valley (north side of the valley). It is also known by its local name, Muzbel. At the interface of two mountain ranges, it is also circumscribed by the hydrological basins of Chakmak river, a tributary of the Sandalash river, himself a right tributary of Shavur-say. Pskem range stretches from north-east to south-west over 120 km away. It is the dividing line of the watershed Pskem river, on the one hand, and rivers Sandalash, Chatkal and Cox, on the other. The ridge is of equal altitude, high throughout its length, its height is just reduced to the southwest. To name a few major peaks, one has: the Beshtor - 4299 m (the highest point in the range), the Aktyuyaulgen (4224 m), the Tavalgan (3888 m) and the Piazak (3718 m). We access mainly by road to the range by Gorge Burchmulla (Uzbekistan) and the villages of Bogustan and Nanay. One the right bank of Pskem you climb for about 40 km to the village of Pskem. Along the Pksem valley several other villages are situated on both banks. There are several pedestrian bridges to access the villages on the left bank. These bridges are located at the level of particular villages, Karabulak, Mullaloo, Ispa and Tepar. The main road crosses the river Pskem on solid road bridges, supporting trucks. The road ends just above the village of Pskem, and here starts a wide path. This follows the Pskem Valley on more than 25 kilometers by successive bridges spanning the various right tributaries of the river. We then reached the confluence where the Pskem separates into two rivers the Maydantal and the Oygaing (close to the Kazakh border). At the confluence of the two rivers there is a weather station "Karangitugay" (about 1450m above sea level). It is then goes up the Oygaing along the path of its right bank. It is possible to cross up the tributary, the Beshtor (1700m) on the left bank, but fording the river here is rather dangerous. It is better to go on and on about 20 km from the weather station to reach the tributary of the Cox River (2100). Shortly before, the trail goes into the left bank of Oygaing crosses the Cox and still follows the same bank for 13 km to the bridge on the left tributary Akkapchigay (2450m) and 5 km up away from the confluence of the Tyuzashu (2594m), the Shavursay (2520, river suite of the Oygaing) and the Tastarsay (2590m). This is where the Oygaing rises. About 12 km from the confluence of Shavursay, following this valley lies Lake Shavursay (2750m length of nearly 1.5 km, width of 700 m). From this huge rock blocking resulted the lake. And it takes about half an hour to overcome this natural obstacle. On the south shore of Lake cliffs are steep, so it is more convenient to go through the North Shore, consisting of ramshackle rock, provided good slope to reach the head of the lake. The lake water is blue-green in the sun and becomes almost black in shaded area. On the passage of the obstruction one often found along the shore dead wood. Half-length of the crossing, you have to ford a tributary, the river comes from the watershed line on the range of the Talas Ala-Too mountains between the two passes of Dustlik-I and Dustlik- II.

Orographic scheme of the Pskem Range C Co ol P Co an l Ar Ou l As e To huto oram na ra ny sh r i u

Col Tiu z-A

Col

Chinguiz

Yulıs ay

omet oviy Col Za pr

Termetash

ichny i razd n Col P

m -K or u Ka ra

uu r-s Ch uk u

jard y-s uu Ch olo k-D

Dja rdy -su u

ula k -B Sa lyk

yk-s Tald

Alma-say

Kara -Deb e

Ko kc

u Ko kc u

Kuruk-Korgon

Col Nadezda

Takmak -Saldy

Ko kc u l Ma yda n ta

Maydantal

ïng Oy ga

ak-s ay Kelin ch

dyk Kychy-San Sandalash

To C km Co ol Co ak l Ta O sa lP s ze ldı ax Co tak hme rn l Ta tro or yi str sta oy rr Co lP rok ho dn oy Co Ou l Isha Ish kuld ak -O y ldy u Col Doluday

Col Echo n Sa

h las da

Ta y

alm

ys h

h ys

-s uu

say

Ac hik -Ta sh

C ol

lm ya Ta

Ka sh

i ny nit ra lG a hin olc l C sk Co Ber l Co

ay pchig Akka

Col Sandyk

Col Tunduk

Co l

ov nik niy od ele lV lZ Co Co

kka pch iga y

mak sud.

va tko

Col Novossibirsk

o og

Col Irbis

Col Karator Ou Snezniy

grykYan Kara-

al atk Ch

ay kaï-s Aksa

al atk Ch

Ka ra -D eb

rum

at mb Za

kcu Ko

-say

l Co

t -es ak ch lin t Ke es -ou ak

ch lin Ke

Burchmulla

Pic Padar

sa y

l Co

noy bxod Col O ra Isna

Ak sar-

ha k-s

d -su ak iaz lP Co ov tik AF ma l IY ate nt Co e lM Co ashk lT ar Co bd lA Co i-say yr ndzhylk ad l M My Co pay ay l Is ars ks Co lA Co

i ylk lki y zh nd dzh My yn lM Co est ou

Ku lvc

Bagistan

Col Kara-Tarpok

-Ko

l Co

Nanay Sidjak

Pic Piezak 3888 m

Col Kytchak

ra Ka

a ov an k za Pie

Pic Aynatash

Pic Chatan

Arz

l Co

Mu llala -sa y

Col Kychy-Sarvaytugan

Pic Chatyr-Tiube

ezda Col Zb valgan rd Col Ta pay-No Col Is ligina Ka Col N.

ras ny i Co lV iso kyi Co lU rta

Col A

Col Achik-Tash

uu g-s yin Ka

ri go Ko

l Co

Mullala

rbaza Col Da Pic Tavalgan 3888 m

or ht

l Co

i bzorny Col O

Co lK

Kirghizstan uu g-s yin Ka

r To uruk tor ak ay

ysa

Col Kyzylkyp

r -To luu Su Col Pervo ou Karay manskiy angryk

Col Chon-Sarvaytugan

Col Chondır-Tyube

Col M uzbe l Col Ch ak

Col Py ati ko lets

s Be

h luc Su

kytor

u rk

Ispay Palvanak

ha Col C

Col Karatiube-Bolchoï Col Karatiube-Est Pic Karatiube

Col Kokcu-Bashi 2 daks Col Ba

Col Kyzyktor ou Beshtor-I

Col Dzhayaktor

Col Sarvaytugan

Col Ihnach

Col Osypnoy

Col Barkrak

Col Evgueni Kusnetsova

Col Nezabudka Kara -Ya ngry k-s ay

Col Ayutor

u -su rdy Dja

Sp ok oy nyi

Col Berchniy Kyzylkyp

h Dz

Col Kokcu-Bashi 1

Col Tuyuktor

Col Korumashu

ny i

or nalt Dja Col

ay -s ch

Co l

ks ay

Issenomansa y

Pic Beshtor

oïka

ksa y

pta Ka

m ke Ps

l Co

am Ug

Ba da

Tr Col

ul -k ch

Takayangak

Co l C 378 ol 0 Sk Dja aln rtıs yi u

Po dk ov

Col Orlinyi Pic Adelung

l Co

r lto zy Ky

r hto Bes

C ol

Col Goryzont

Col Termetash

Djamal-Tor

Ps ke m-s ay

r-s

B.B

Tu nd u

h ys an ysh kan rak Ka Kara Col

Col Krokus

C ol

l Co

t. os r-V ay r-s

Col Shacur-say

alm ur Ch

djan abay

Buvazansay

ay -s ch

B Col

Chakak am Ug

Col Chiralminskyi

Kazakhstan

kem Ps

Co l

Ba ïkir ak -sa y

ay h-s es

u ac Sh

Pic Kuldanbess

Col Kokbeles

m Uga

Ouzbékistan Ta s

Col Zubec (Trezubec) Col Instruktorov

Pic Kokbeles

Ouzbékistan

Oygaïng

uto Ay

l nta

g aïn Oyg

ke m Ps

Pic Bakair Coku 4455 m

Shabyr-kul

say byrSha

aïn yg O

k Te

da ay M

l nta

shuu

Col Ky zylbel

say Shabyr-

hig pc ka Ak

Kazakhstan

Ka Col ra Oy ga ga sh ing

Kirghizstan

h-say

a yd Ma

Sar Col

Co l

h ybas

su a-

Cha kmak

l nta

Sarybas

da ay M

Karak

Kegendy

s Ka

nd Sa

ala

Above one is resumed the thread in the valley, it is then formed by various branches of the river. It it also succeeds numerous alluvial deposits trash. The river here stretches over a length of 2 km and a width of 300 m and the entire valley is covered with small islands made of thick grass and flowers. It is a real swampy colorful carpet where wind several branches of Shavursay. A left tributary flowing into the river nearby, and its source is in the glaciers away from the main ridge of Pskem at the foot of a high peak at 4359m altitude. 6 km above the lake Shavursay, the river receives a right tributary at 2990 m above sea level, where higher it is powered by smelt water of three glaciers. Going up this tributary other 7 km (north) we reach the glacier cirque behind fusion flow. In this circus, to the south is the Prisklonovoye glacier (1.7 km long), with a melting lake at its foot (3900), very close to the main ridge of the range of Talas Ala-Too (4200m). Along the lake and leaving the glacier on the right (in the direction of the rise), a poorly marked trail takes you into the Bakair pass (4119m). It's sometimes disappears under the snow. To the right of the pass, on the ridge at 4211 m, we reach the top of the Shilibili River basin. If you continue along the main valley of Shavursay, 4 km you come to the merger of three rivers from left to right, respectively, the Tastar, the Takmaksaldy and the Ishakuldy. Let's start by describing the most right tributary, the Ishakuldy. 4 km and 6 km from its mouth (depending on the chosen arm) is its source. The source is located at the top right of the glacier Ishakuldy Prisklonovoye, with a length of 1.4 km, and almost as wide. This circus can also reach the crest of the Talas Ala-Too and beyond the Shilibili basin. In the center of the eastern part of the circus, you reach the crest of Pskem almost where it joins that of the Talas Ala-Too. On the descent on the other side you reach the Cakmak glacier. Along the ridge to the south-east, we can also reach the upper reaches of the river Tayalmysh. The mountains in this location also takes the name of Muzbel at the junction of the two chains. To the left of the Ishakuldy, from the largest glacier in the Shavursaya river basin starts the difficult valley of Kalesnik glacier. This rises to 4000 m and is bordered to the south by the headwaters of the ridge line of Tayalmysh and Ishakuldy, both tributaries of Sandalash. These rivers of the southern slope come from a vast network of almost inaccessible torrents. The main east-west ridge has a length of about 8 km. Most of the passes of the regions have not been taken, it is difficult to give a precise description of these high mountain routes. On the southeast slope of the Pskem ridge (Kyrgyz side), the main source of Tayalmysh begins in a cooler circus 1.5 km away. Just below the terminal moraine of the glacier there is a trail through the Tayalmysh valley to that of Chong-Ishakuldy river. Therefore, it is possible to bypass the high valley of Kalesnik by Ishakuldy and after by the high valley of Tayalmysh. We only met three glaciers. The largest of them (1.5 km long, left) feeds the main flow of Tayalmysh. This glacier descends from 4090m to 3550 m from an unnamed peak (4120 m). At the foot you reach the path that takes the glacial valley giving rise to the right tributary of the River Tayalmysh. This path allows the passage of Tayalmysh Valley to Chong-Ishakuldy Valley (southwest general direction). It crosses the wide upper basin of the various tributaries of the Ishakuldy and then leads to the Ishakuldy pass itself (3562 m, 1A rating). The descent from the pass covers about 12-13 km in distance through the side of Dolubay and lower to the shores of Takmaksaldy. To reach the high valley of Takmaksaldy one can also follow a shorter path from the Shavursaya Valley, through the Takmaksaldy-East Pass (4100 m). On the north side of Pskem, it is indeed the central tributary of the source of Shavursaya (also called Takmaksaldy, same name but north and south side of the ridge). It is fed by a glacial cirque with a length of about 1.3 km, starting from 3400 m up to 3810 m. On the way the glacier surface is quite flat, without significant crevasse. The

end of the course to the Takmaksaldy-East Pass (4100m, 1B) have certain abruptness. The descent on the south side of the Pskem ridge is steep in the first part, but the slope gradually decreases. On the way there is also, on the left, cirque glaciers giving all the waters of the Takmaksaldy River (Sandalash basin). On the north side of the ridge of Pskem is also further east of Takmaksaldy-East Pass (4100 m) another passage by a small glacier rising to a height of 3860 m. This pass has not yet been explored. We also have no information on the most left tributary of Shavursaya, leading to a vast glacier with regular slopes and dominated by a peak at 4143 m. Now describe Tastarsay Valley. Here begins the Pakhtakor glacier, close to its terminal tongue above it expands, becoming quite a circus. The climb of the glacier leads to the upper source of Takmaksaldy (the Sandalash basin) by switching to the other side of Pskem. The Tastarsay River is a tributary of the Oygaing. The Tastarsay basin extends between two vast northern spurs of the range of Pskem. All its major tributaries are on both sides and come from various circuses and hanging glaciers. However, the main glacier lies on north slope in the valley. Its terminal tongue is at an altitude of 3530 m. It has a length of 2.8 km and is located in a vast and almost vertical wall of 500 meters on the left (in the upstream direction). The trail follows the crest of a lateral moraine and after a final steep slope towards the Tastar pass (3650m, IB). One some places, snow can still be present, but the saddle of the pass is still clearly visible. The descent on the other side, also leads to one of the sources of Takmaksaldy. First we cross some snow fields, all in an extensive winding course of 6-7 km, to reach the confluence of Takmaksaldy. Where the rivers converge, one is joined the trail of the Chatyrtash side (Takmaksaldy pass). From here, the trail descends in a â&#x20AC;&#x153;stuffedâ&#x20AC;? way along the Dolubay river side (about 8 km) to reach the junction with the Ishakuldy Pass Trail. Always parallel to the Tastarsay Valley is another tributary of Oygaing the Akkapchigay. In the basin of the Akkapchigay river, there are 17 glaciers with a total area of 8.8 square kilometers. The most important of them are confined to the north on the ridge of Pskem in two main glacial cirques. One of them has a glacier with a length of 1.8 kilometers facing northeast. At its highest point 3900 m, we reach the ridge leading to Takmaksaldy right upper tributary on the other side. The left source of Akkapchigay leads after 2.5 km of climb to the pass Akkapchigay. The trail follows the main valley to the south, higher we must come to the tongue of the South Akkapchigay glacier (length - 2 km, the lowest - 3400 m, the highest - 3800 m). The trail starts to the left and joined the snow-covered slopes of Akkapchigay Pass (3650 m, IB). But let us back on the northern slope, upstream of the Akkapchigay (the Oygaing Basin). From the main valley, a left tributary goes down that we can follow. Before reaching the terminal moraine of a large glacier, the trail climbs up the North Ridge of the northern spur of Pskem. He joins an anonymous pass of a height of about 4000 m. This allows you to switch to the top onto the Kyzyltor river valley. The Akkapchigay pass is on the crest of a major Pskem orographic node, first by the separation of the waters of upper basins of the Cox and the upper stream of Akkapchigay and by the junction between the main Pskem crest and a powerful and wide spur headed north. The latter has indeed some major summits of Pskem range, at maximum altitude of 4387m. Within it the little valley of the River Barkraksay will not be described here. The next valley beyond Barkraksay is that of the main left tributary of the Oygaing - Cox river - near where at his mouth let us remind that there is a weather station. Cox River basin is of particular interest to hydrologists, glaciologists and also for tourists. All mountain rivers has high flow stability there, contrary to what is generally found in the

Tien-Shan in the usual diurnal variation of melt water. The most interesting feature of the watershed is characterized by a wide distribution of coarse alluvial materials forming true slope. Sometimes these banks cover several hundred meters. In two valleys of the Cox basin there are also five small lakes formed originally by natural embankments. Finally, the passages of the valley bottom glaciers is difficult. We now describe the basin of rivers Cox-Tunduksay. The description will follow, from the headwaters of the rivers, the enumeration of the right to the left banks on side valleys, and in the direction of descent (in the downstream direction). So back to the starting point of the trail at the weather station on the right bank of the river Cox (Cox-Oygaing confluence). A first trail follows the right bank, but almost immediately, Cox valley narrows to follow a canyon of a relatively small extension. 4 km from the meteorological station, the Cox River joins its largest right tributary, the Tunduksay river. The valley remains as follows literally fulfilled by rocks. No passage seems possible in this narrow gorge where entangled themselves thousands of boulders. So to go up the river Tunduksay, either you take the starting point of the weather station or cut to join another path to the east, which at first follows the line of the watershed of the rivers Barkraksay and Tunduksay then goes down on the flanks of the Tunduksay valley. During the descent it can be seen on the opposite side a series of thrusts â&#x20AC;&#x153;tableclothsâ&#x20AC;? northeast oriented. The lowest of them reaches to a height of 3000 m. Going down to the Tunduksay river, we reach the trail and again climbs through 2.5-3 km to the merger of three successive torrents (3000 m): the Isenomana (left), the Aksakay (middle) and finally the Kyzyltor (right). Taking the Kyzyltor Valley to the east, the trail leads through 10-11 km to an unnamed pass (3818 m), and beyond to higher Akkapchigay river side which flows into the Oygaing. The Kyzyltor comes from small glaciers rising to 3760 m. Other valleys also skew gradually heading south towards the crest of Pskem. The first left tributary of Kyzyltor (encountered in the downhill direction) leads to a glacial cirque north up the altitude of 3920 meters. Rises above, the peak 4202 m. If one climbs into the rightmost Central Valley (in the upstream direction) one can reach by the crest of Pskem, a glacier area behind the Akkapchigay River (Sandalash watershed). This tributary comes from two glaciers of which one has an area of 2.4 km for a rise between 3360 m (bottom) and 3900 m (top). Further west of the ridge, is the upper Kashkasu (watershed Sandalash), on the opposite side. Before joining the Kyzyltor River is another tributary to the left - the Karabastor coming from four small glaciers upstream. Almost all of these glaciers are placed on thrust sheets at an altitude of 3600-3800 m. The main glacier rises to 3900 meters. Given its length (about 1 km) and its vertical climb of about 500 m, glacier climb has some steep slopes. From there you can reach the main crest of Pskem leading to the top of the Kashkasu as well as Karayangryk river basin (most south-western watershed of Sandalash). Let's talk briefly about the headwaters of Kashkasu. But first, we note that since the trail on Dolubay side (Takmaksaldy Valley), we are separated from by the Akkapchigay valley and the mountains of Sandyk. The downstream of the Kashkasu river is almost impassable from its headwaters to the confluence with the Sandalash. It is more convenient to access this southeastern side from the other Uzbek side on northwest. From the heights of Pskem the trail crosses the high valley in the middle. The trail follows the bank of the river, even sometimes taking part on the bedrock. The course track in this manner 4 km along the right tributary of the River Kashkasu. The watershed above Kashkasu begins with a glacier 2 km long. Hidden from the sun by a higher spur and of east orientation, it forms a narrow ribbon striped by longitudinal cracks and rises up to 4150 m (4099 points on the map). The glacier tongue has a very steep escarpment up to 15 m high, demonstrating the power of the glacier thrust. This is even more visible after the early season snow

have disappeared. Around this circus there are also other small hanging glaciers. All meltwater from various tributaries form the Kashkasu river. The main direction of these glaciers is practically north, but from the slopes of the Pskem crest there are two glaciers whose orientation is virtually to the south, and whose melting is more intense because of their orientation. On the right the mountain reaches an altitude of 4080 m. We turn now to the tributary named Aksakay of the Tunduksay river. Following its headwaters you reach the Tunduk pass (3589 m, IB) by a glacier on the slopes sometimes steep. From there, passing on the other side to less than 6 km away is the left bank of Karayangryka. On the opposite side of Pskem, the river is also called Aksakay. The left tributary of Tunduksay, the river Isenoman, is fed by two glacial cirques separated by a narrow buttress. Both glaciers are high at almost the same height, the west end is only 260 m below. The western glacier provides the main source of Isenoman. To reach the other basin (south-west) of the Cox River, the trail leaves from the meteorological station, follows the right bank until the entrance Tunduksay Gorge. We cross the Tunduksay river on a bridge then one goes directly along the right bank of Cox, crossing several groves of birch. Above the valley widens and the river flows over a flat bottom, broken into several branches. Soon, the trail crosses the river and goes back to the merger of its two components (right - the Karakanysh, left - the Termetash). The two rivers are separated by a vast rocky buttress, with steep walls that go directly down to the water. By following the left bank of Karakanysh one can reach in half an hour a small lake surrounded by a varied vegetation. Above, the trail crosses the river and 2 km after it presents a natural dam through which the water passes. Its passage is not easy even if the dam is dry. Indeed above and on both sides, the vertical cliffs have caused powerful scree. Another half hour away through the obstacle, and your eyes will discover the green-blue surface of a lake (300 m long and 100 m wide), which sharply contrasts with the rocks around of monotone coloring. Above the lake are also encountered a long line that blocks the valley again. Sometimes the obstacles raised to almost 250 m above the valley floor. There are a lot of dead wood brought upstream by avalanches. These barriers are still present along 4 km above the lake to reach the headwaters of Karakanysh. The blocks are still visible to the moraine above which rise the glaciers sources of the river. The path to the Termetash pass is on the left bank. At 3.5 km from its mouth in the valley, there is a lake (size 100x50 m), reconstructed by draining of a nearby superior lake, a little smaller. On the slopes leading down to the lakes, there are varieties of creeping junipers. Then up we find the left side of a superior lake where flows the tributary Shasursay. The upstream water food of the lake is not visible because the runoff of Shasursay flows under the rocks. The Shasursay flows in a direct straight valley and particularly smooth, dotted here and there by the slope of the upper branches of side rivers. Continuing we reach a pass leading to the Beshtor River, it is classified 1B. The route over the Termetash Valley is on the right bank. The river disappears almost immediately under the rocks, we must sometimes reach the rocky bottom of the gorge or evade it. The valley gradually thins. From both sidesof the valley, the rocky cliffs have caused steep scree. At 2 km upstream on the valley the trail goes straight to a lake. But let's start by getting us on the left (direction of the rise). A track still allows to rise to an altitude of 2700 m, reach the moraine of a glacier in the valley, whose tongue is 400 meters above. Background valley under the Mount Beshtor, there are frozen waterfalls whose ribs reach a width of

2-3 m and heights of 200 m (vertical). All of the cascade develops about 500 m and fills the entire width of the valley. To overcome this ice climbing, in practice it must goes on the right edge of the glacier, we reach above the lower slopes of the two peaks of Beshtor. At this place the integrity of the main glacier was not preserved by the abruptness of the downstream slope. In its upper reaches there is no significant or noticeable fissure, but before reaching the part of the ridge to the east of Beshtor one is encountered a rimaye up to 2 m wide above the glacial cirque. Above the circus to reach the lowest part of the ridge between two rocks, one must go up often icy snow slopes of 50째, with a length of about 70 m. Above is reached the Beshtor pass (3800 m, 2B rating). The reached pass is not the lowest in the glacial Termetash cirque but the pioneers climbers have adopted it because it is the most rational passage to reach the other side and the Karayangryka Valley. The main runway rises above the left Temertash Valley. There are a few boulders interspersed with small snowfields and the valley flattens and scree are replaced by grassy slopes. To the left rises the Peak Beshtor (4299 m). The Temertash Valley reached a new fork. Before taking the south direction to the crest of Pskem, on the left another trail climbs to the pass Termetash (3100 m, 1A). It is located on the crest of a side spur of Pskem range. The main trail is also reaching above this ridge to the south. Then there was need to cross on the left a steep slope to get to pass Beshtor-1 (3800 m, 1B) and from there reach on the other side the descent to the top of the Karayangryk River (left arm). Since Beshtor-1 pass, the Sandalash valley is clearly visible. We see on this valley almost little trees and the space is often under the threat of winter snow ledges. On the descent the snow slope is steep, then the trail reaches the rubble of a moraine. It appears below the track leading to the Karayangryk river. One can also reach the left branch of the High Karayangryk (a path leading to it). It is located on the south side of Pskem. The trail goes down a scree slope of 20째 to 40째, and at an altitude of about 3400 m reaches several rocks and snowy corridors. One has to climb some of it almost to the crest with some brief slopes close to 60째. On the ridge there is many little passes formed of weathered rocks. At an altitude of 2600 m, the Karayangryk meets the waters of Sulutor, its right tributary whose basin includes 6 glaciers (the largest at 2.1 km). At 2 km downstream is mouth of the left-tributary the Aksakoya. Further more and further down the river we reach the right track (west) to the pass Achiktashdavan (3412 m, 1A). On the other side starts the path leading to the Kashkasu basin (east). On this last one still we come right into the bed of the Kichiksandyk river. The lower part of Karayangryka is impracticable. On the right bank of the river, we reach the crest of another side spur of Pskem beyond which you reach the basin of the river Achik-Tash. In its middle part, two paths merge and allow instant crossing from Karayangryka Valley to that of Achik-Tash. To become familiar with other major tributaries of the Oygaing, talk about the Beshtor river. The trail was on the main valley of Beshtor and crosses the river several times. The first right tributary of Beshtor called Kyzyltor-1 (as the next right tributary of Beshtor) can be used to reach a pass. It joins the upper basin of Shasursay (Cox basin) and rises sources of Kyzyltor-1 river. Tourists often visit the upper part of the valley since that of Cox. If one goes up 6 - 7 km onto the Beshtor valley, we reach the mouth of Kyzyltor. The river Kyzyltor first heads toward the northeast and the watershed ridge with Shasursay, left component of Termetash. Then the Kyzyltor almost sudden a right angle to turn to the south-east and still diverges 5 km away in other direction. Here the stream to the right leads to the pass Beshtor-1. In the southern part of the circus of other Kyzyltor sources, under the summit elevation 3875 m, there is a small North-west glacier. Heading south we find other small glacial cirques roughly the same size

(length 0.8 km), but at a slightly higher altitude. The path of the ridge separating the last two circuses is directly above the basin of the Karayangryk valley. At 1km above this tributary of Kyzyltor, the trail takes on the right bank then passes through the Beshtor river toward a left tributary leading to the Kokbeles pass (2730 m, 1A) and then goes down to the Lower Churaalma river. The place is wild, dotted with birch groves, and little visited since Beshtor Valley. The trail often loses it way and one must make a lot of detours, but it is mainly found on the left bank of the valley, easily distinguishable by the presence of dark rocks. Returning in the Beshtor, we climb the nearly 10 km up before encountering its main tributaries. Particularly on the left bank, one approaches the Tuyuktor then again goes upstream on 2-3 km the Beshtor still divides into two branches, east the Sulukchukurtor borns, and south the Dzhayaktor river. The first stream (Sulukchukurtor) separates in turn 4km after. The path to this fork is not easy: first we follow the sides of the rocky ridge on the right bank, then down into the water, and go up the left bank of a birch forest (2560 m). At this point it is easy to camp for a night. For the further upstream, we follow a steep rise, mainly along the right bank, and sometimes to the right and left, if either you do not or cannot want to use the rocky banks where snowbanks are present in the early season. When the valley widens, it rotates regularly to the south. Following the upper right tributary you can climb to the Pervomajskij pass (3600 m, 1B). When the snow is deep, the transition becomes very difficult. The high valley forms a rocky area where we distinguish a conspicuous and characteristic rock shaped like a "finger". You have to follow this direction and reach the slopes above a tilt up to 35Â°. The "finger" on the ridge is well worth a visit, at the foot of the pass Pervomajskij, 3660 m, difficulty quotation, 1B. One top part of circus communicates with the other side on a right tributary of Karayangryka, the climb is often filled with snow. The "finger" of the rock circus constitutes a good direction guide to locate the climb path to the Pervomajskij pass, while on the lower slopes of the valley the trail is visible. On the one hand, the origins of Karayangryk river can be reached from the heights of the terminal Sulukchukurtor circus (downhill on the upper reaches of the river Sulutor). But one the other hand, this access to the crest of Pskem at 3826 m may also lead to superior slopes the Achiktash river by the right of the Sulukchukurtor circus. Tourists can see on the sources of Sulukchukurtor a small glacier terminal (0.6 km long) at the altitude of 3800 m. As mentioned above, after the Sulukchukurtor, the first right tributary of Beshtor, follows left the Dzhayaktor river. The confluence is located 1.5 km upstream. The tributary Dzhayaktor gets its water supply through three glaciers. All have a length ranging from 1 km to 1.3 km, but located at different heights. The rightmost glaciers rises to 4000 m, the leftmost is located 200 meters below. The further east glacier leads on the other side to the origins of Achiktash river, the other glaciers lead to higher Kurgantyube as well as its left tributary, the Almasay. Here, on the southern slope of Pskem, the top circus of Kurgantyube has several Southern Exposure glaciers. The glacier Almasay is the smallest of them (0.5 km long) and all are located at the altitude 3850 m. The average elevation glacier reaches 3970 m, and on the right, the main Kurgantyube the power source is located at 4060 m. Southwest of the river Kurgantyube one descends to the network of the Kainsu River, the last right tributary of the River Sandalash. There is a path that can reach this mountainous area. Another path a little further west leads to the Dzhartysu Valley. Directing practically on mountainside, the path crosses the three sources of Kurgantyube and gives access to the top of the Dzhartysu Valley. Always up the valley of Beshtor, we now encounter 1.5 km above the Dzhayaktor the mouth of its left tributary, the Chakyrtor. The upper part of this Chakyrtor presents a small glacial cirque North-

west exposure, 1.1 km long, with elevations of 3520 m (bottom) to 3880 m (top). The path through the crest of Pskem leads to the mountain called "Agaly-Too" (4218 m). The same place can also lead us towards the left tributary of Beshtor, the Tuyuktor valley, through the west by crossing a lateral spur of the Pskem crest. The main sources of Tuyuktor are fed by two glaciers. Due to the steep slopes on the side of the most parts of Dzhartysu valley, a path is possible downstream on the heights of the left side down to 8-10 km before its mouth. The flow of the river Dzhartysu joined the Chatkal 10-11 km futher downstream from the mouth of Sandalash itself. It is also above the upper valley of Dzhartysu which is reached on the other side of Pskem (Uzbekistan) the basin of the river Churaalma-say, which is the first left tributary of Pskem downstream of its confluence (Oygaing and Maydantal). From the mouth on the Pskem, a good trail goes up the right bank of the river Churaalma and another 3 km trail climbs towards the TerekKokbeles pass (towards the Beshtor basin). Above the river, Churaalma receives whole series of streams, and after 5 km upstream, one encounters a right tributary, the Dzhamaltor. It has its origin in the upper two circus glaciers. The path encountering the right glacier (3800 m altitude) leads to the Dzhartysu river, the path taking the left glacier reaches the sources of the river Kara-koram. The mountainous parts dominating both rivers are located on the main ridge of Pskem. There is the top of the Ayutor Mountain (4025 m). On the heights of Pskem crest, over the Kara-koram Valley are also located several passes giving access to the various tributaries of Dzhamaltor-say and Churaalma-say here called Yuly-say (or Yuldy-say). The upper Yuly-say basin (or Yuldy-say) forms the border with the sources of the river Ihnach (other side to the west), another tributary of Pskem and sources of the Karakoram River (south side of the basin and Chatkal ). The trail to the crest of Pskem above Yuly-say reaches the Korum-Ashu pass (3517 m or 3497 m on the map, 1B difficulty, Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border). Before reaching the ridge, the trail winds along a steep slope (Uzbek side) and also drops steeply into the valley of the Kara-Korum (Kyrgyz side) and to the properly-said river at an altitude of about 2700 m. Downstream, the valley becomes more flatty. After 5-6 km downhill the track meets other trails leading to other side valleys on Kyrgyz side. To visit the Ihnach valley starting from the Pskem valley, you take the road on the right bank of Pskem for 11-13 km that one leaves at the mouth of the Ihnach river, its left tributary (the mouth is 23 km downstream of Pskem-OygaĂŻng-Maydantal). The road that leads into, cross over the Pskem river, through a bridge at the village of the same name, near the mouth of a small river (the Pskemsay) a few kilometers before the mouth of the Ihnach. On the lower reaches of the Ihnach, the river gorges are narrow, and cut in depth the various conglomerate layers of Pskem valley. Access through this gorge is difficult, and even impossible at the top because of the brut force of the water. But there is an easier way up the valley via the valley of the River Semizsaz-say and pass of Kensaybel that can descend after on Ihnach. In the Ihnach valley grow many trees, including large beech forests and juniper. The road becomes difficult sometimes as narrow as steep. A 10 to 12 km upstream from the mouth of the valley, it widens into a flooded plain littered with trash. At this location a natural dam in a tightening of the valley rises high enough (up to 150 m) and forms a powerful obstacle to the flow of the water. This resulted in the formation of a lake, having length of 500 m and a maximum width of 180 m. This natural reservoir forms a crater about 10 meters deep. Another lake is located immediately upstream whose function is to filter the water of the river, while also playing a blocking role. The lake waters are regenerated by groundwater. The surface of the upper lake is nearly three times higher (about 1.5 km in length, a width of more than 200 m). Three main rivers flow directly upstream of the lake, the central river is actually the Ihnach river, still called by locals the Kanych. The trail crosses the lake along its north shore to the main branch of the Ihnach. The rise in the path strewn with rounded pebbles is easier than before.

Woody vegetation soon disappears, giving way to alpine meadows and snowfields of the early season. From the upper Lake (2505 m) to the pass there are about 10 km away. The trail leading to the pass has many continuous passages on snowy slopes, but in general on the pass it lacks of snow, there is mainly clastic rocks. This is the Sarbay-Turgan pass (3594 m, 1B). The descent from the pass on the other side is not difficult. First we cross a granitic detritus zone, and then reached the snowfield source of Chukursu, a right tributary of Chatkal. After 5 km downhill from Chukursu can leave his wake, to join by another pass (Chong-Sarbay-Turgan) the Ihnach river basin. As was said earlier, three major rivers flow into the lake of the Ihnach Valley. In the leftmost Valley, another lake is located 5 km upstream. This is another small dam lake stretched in width from 15 to 20 m and 150 m long. Above the path still continues 3km further to reach the right lateral Pskem ridge at a pass of 3252 m altitude. The trail continues to the south-east of the crest to reach the Koksu-Bashi-1 pass (3319 m, 1B) to the sources of Kokcu river. Here, the trail is sometimes disturbed by some boulders and steep slopes. One can climb on the main ridge along both adjacent circuses, giving birth of the tributary river Kokcu to another pass the Koksu-Bashi-P (3867 m, 1B). On the way down the pass Koksu-Bashi-P, we cross the sources of Kara-dube river that also provides access to the pass of Chong-Sarbay-Turgan (3082 m, 1A) for the descent into the valley Chukursu. Below we also find the trail of Sarbay-Turgan pass which we have already spoken (3594 m). After the junction of the two tracks, the trail climbs the ridge immediately to the left and reaches the pass Kichik-Sarbay-Turgan (2782 m). From this ridge we reach the valley of the River KaraKorum, the trail splits and one leg then goes up on the ridge. At the pass Cusal (kitchen, 2616 m) the trail continues south to the Kara-Turpak pass (2290 m) and then merges with another trail and headed along the eastern slope downstream of the Salyk-Bulak river, valley to the left of that of the Kara-Korum. The two paths of Kara-Korum and Salyk-Bulak goes down to the Chatkal, on a distance of about 6 km long. At Southwest of pass Koksu-Bashi-I on Pskem ridge is the pass Piazak where people goes less frequently. Indeed its southern slopes dominate the high largely inaccessible Koksu valley on most of its course. In this area to the east of the Koksu Valley from Pskem Valley we can recommend access to the side Badaksay valley where there is a beautiful mountain lake. Another site for Hiking is located in a neighboring valley near the Pskem village around which once stood a mine. The river, the village and the valley are called Kaptarkumish. The Kaptarkumish pass (2780 m) connects the valley to that of another small left tributary of Pskem. To access the heights of the various left tributaries of Pskem, tourists prefer to go through the Koksu Valley. It offers access by multiple passes including one called the Arzanova pass (near Peak Piazak 3728 m). The main path is on the course of the Ayryk River, a right tributary of Koksu (departure 1200 m). Along the river grows deciduous trees, and lots of berry bushes. After 4 km climb where the trail winds, we encounter a huge natural dam. This natural dam lake has no more than 100 m in diameter, with a pale blue water, hence the name it bears is the Blue Lake (1500 m). The descent to the shores of the lake is steep and short. The trail skirts the south shore of the little blue lake, then goes right into the soft banks of the river, dotted with rocky placers (detrital relief). From there you can see on the left the top of Peak Piazak (3718 m). Futher there we can consistently lead along the partially rocky bed of the Ayryk river, slightly to the left. The subterranean water flows, with occasional outbreaks on surface. After crossing a narrow rock "door", the route leaves room to a gorge surrounded by smooth and steep slopes interspersed of terraces. A path then leads to a mountainous amphitheater, the confluence of the sources of Ayryksay. The path from the Lake into the circus takes about 4 hours for 800 m of ascent. Above you can

climb to the pass Piazak (3470 m, 1B). The route leading to Arzanova pass starts from the lake by a first section of clay reliefs, covered large stony portions where the shrubs are rare and we found soon in the valley a tightning net rocky ledge up to 60Â° of tilt, blocking access, sometimes with a small snowfield present here (2400 m). This ledge represents a significant challenge to overcome for the hiker, dividing the two sections of the course between snowfields up and rocky slopes down. The size of the jump is substantial, up to 10 m of a relatively steep wall and it requires the use of a rope for security and insurance. Above, there is a gently sloping area with a torrent at bottom. From this point it remains almost an hour to get to Arzanova pass. On the left (upstream) rises Piazak Peak (3718 m). The pass of Arzanova (3650 m, 2A) is usually bare of snow (windswept all season). During the descent on the other side of Arzanova pass towards the Pskem basin, sometimes you need to cross some steep snow fields dotted with stone blocks on the right (watch out for holes). Lowest we find a moraine, some of melting snowfields interspersed with water, rocks and scree. Further down we find the first juniper shrubs. The river here adopts a powerful current between the stones, drained by water force directly against any side slopes. Several lateral valley waters merge and the descent is then steeper and more difficult: the rocks were particularly upside down, forming scree call "ulezhalis" and it is partially unstable rocks. At 4 km down, the river joins the mainstream of Ispay river. At this point the trail again appears and crosses the river Ispay on a bridge. From the From the bridge to the Pskem Valley there are approximately 7 - 8 km in the gorge to the village of Ispay. There is still another route to go from Kokcu basin to the Pskem one. It starts from the mouth of the Myndzhilki-say River, a right tributary of the Kokcu. In the first kilometers, this valley is obstructed by huge rocks, and has many tightening wall forming real ravines. To go up this part of the valley, we must then take the riverbed and sometimes steep slopes. On the way there are also many fords to cross. Beyond the valley widens, and suggests some small birch groves. Upstream, there are more trees and the water of Myndzhilki-say soon disappears under the rocks. The source is located at an altitude of 3100 meters in a mountainous cirque surrounded by vertical cliffs of 250 to 280 m before the peak itself. Right two rocky cirques are dominated by mountain passes leading to the opposite side of the Pskem basin, the left circus can reach to the top of the Mashtasgon river. Since the high valley of Myndhzhilki, to climb to the Ispay pass safely, great caution is required: the rocky slopes are steep and rockfall are possibles. Even more before reaching the pass of Ispay (3350 m, 2A), the valley is often under the threat of snow cornices early in the season, arranged directly overhead on the line of the rocky ridge. The route of access to the pass of Ispay draws a fairly smooth curve in the circus. Sources of Myndhzhilki-say will lose in some way in the vast rocky cirque. From the top, after the first course through the tightening of the valley, it takes 8-9 km of trail to reach the crest. At the same mountainous cirque of upper Myndhzhilki-say, also one can reach on the left the Myndhzhilki pass (3300 m, 1B). This is the lowest pass across the ridge overlooking the circus. Beyond one goes down in the valley, crossing the Mashtasgon river is shallow, and first encounters a large lower scree, then the slope becomes rocky. Lower in altitude we found grass and waterfront shrubs and deciduous trees. The trail follows the river and goes down reached the Pskem river, gradually turning left towards the bridge. The descent from the pass takes about 6-7 km to the mouth of the tributary. Two easier and lower altitude passes are still located on the borders of the crest of Pskem, allowing for example the connection between Chavata river, a tributary of the river Koksu and the Pskem river.

The Maydantal Range Cartography: maps 50 000th: K42-070-2, K42-070-3; 100 000th: K42-070; 200 000th: K42-17 The crest of Mayndantal is a broad spur starting south from the Talas Ala-Too, up to the Oygaing River on its right bank. The range is short, but has a very high and powerful crest. The range starts virtually on Peak Chongtash (4165 m called Chamangan on the map) to the Talas Ala-Too or Chingiz pass. It forms a mountain range separating the two watersheds of Oygaing and Maydantal rivers. It extends south-west to around 45 km and is exactly the current border between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. The northernmost peak, Peak Chongtash is exactly the point of the three border republics of Central Asia (Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan). Its rocky ridge rises to its highest altitude of 4321 m. The range is cut into deep valleys forming deep canyons and U-shaped bottom valley and ancient glaciers beds. Glaciologists have here enumerate about 50 small and large glaciers that occupy less than a quarter of the total area of the glacial basin of Pskem river. The range is relatively abundant in glacier area. The northwestern slopes are steep and rocky, as if they were falling directly into the Maydantal river, while the southeastern slope have several large ledges overlooking the Oygaing, which are interrupted by deep gorges in many places. The Closest Pass north of the mountain of Maydantal, pass forming the concrete separation between Talas Ala-Too and Maydantal, connects the valleys of Sarybash and Chingiz. The Sarybash is a right tributary of the Oygaing and Chingyz or Chotan is one of two components of Maydantal River (local people call this Chingyz river or Chingyz Chotanchad). The Sarybash pass (3450 m, 1B, or Chingyz pass on the map) can hardly be called a pass. The seat of the pass is a plateau covering several square kilometers, probably formed by ancient glaciers, lying down on the Talas Ala-Too slopes. The top plateau is often covered with eternal snow. Here and there we found the remains of ancient moraines flattened, forming gentle hills covered with sparse grass. At the top of the plateau is a lake which will tend to disappear in a few years. When the waters are high it is probably a natural reservoir water storage for Sarybash-say River. This pass of Sarybash on far north of the range is seen by shepherds and farmers as the demarcation with the Talas Ala-Too range, known in this part of the mountain massif Torashu or Ashutor. The glacier located just off the pass was listed by glaciologists as the glacier Chotan No. 7 of the Chotan glacier group. The flow of glacial melt feeds a lake, which is just below on the same tray. The lake is close to the stiff tongue of Glacier Chotan-6 which can reach a height of 60 m. In the water of Moraine Lake fleet some small miniature icebergs. From the banks of the Oygaing river, one can achieve to the flat pass in 6-7 hours by walk, with a little over 10 km in distance and nearly 1200 m in altitude gain. The opposite slope descent is gentle enough to reach soon the melt streams confluence of two rivers, coming from two passes upstream Sarybash (or Chingyz) and Torashu (also Ashutor River and pass Maydantal). Here begins a path downstream. The right bank of the valley is steep and somewhat less divided into valley, while several tributaries on the left bank come from many senior glaciers upstream.

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Pic 4258

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Massif du Maydantal

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Kirghizstan

Orographic scheme of the Maydantal Range

At 2 km downstream of the river Chotan (or Chingyz) throws left tributary Dzhuruktash-say, which originates in the glacier Ivanova (Chotan-4). A powerful terminal moraine has filled the valley in its entire width. The left glacier tongue descends steeply in a cascade of ice to a height of 3200 m. Separated by a rocky outcrop on the right, the passages are possible that allow access to the glacial cirque. The length of the glacier Ivanova is 3 km, but straight to the crest of Maydantal, it is not more than 500 m. In the circus, the glacier turns east. In the glacial cirque, there are three passes separated by well individualized peaks. For the central pass, even if it is not yet crossed (in 1977 at least), it was given the name Dzhyryktash pass (3500 m). In the nearby side valley downstream of Chotan valley, flows the Kyzylpurpur river from a glacier of Chotan group, the Chotan-3, hidden by the narrow valley. The glacier tongue is so covered with moraine sediments and present such an rise of thrust that glaciologists were still unable to determine its actual length and surface (in 1977 at least). Nevertheless it is estimated to a length of 2.4 km. The top of the glacier is located at 3800 m. Going up Chotan-3 glacier, hikers will cross on the other side in the upper left source of the Ayutor River, which flows lower into the Oygaing. Always following the downstream direction of Chotan valley, 1 km further you reach the mouth of the river Akmechik-say, below the mouth of the torrent Kyzylpurpur. The Akmechik-say river flows of two sources on the moraine, which are nearly as far apart as the width of the glacier Chotan from which they originate. It is better to go up the right tributary, going up the scree moraine. The height of some projections can reach up to 20 m on the steep banks. After about an hour's walk along the river, the valley opens beyond a "door" rock (almost 500 m wide). Beyond develops the Chotan-2 glacier rather fractured. A rocky ridge separates the glacier in two separate terminals tongues, those on the left being the most fractured. For ascending the glacier it is more convenient to take the right tongue by a slope up to 30Â°. Above the glacier flattens gradually and without special fluctuations raised almost to the ridge where the slope increases at the last moment. The glacier surface is covered with a layer of firn, which, in places, suggests some small cracks. The width of the circus is to 1 km and the total length of the glacier is about 4 km away. In its upper reaches, straight along its main axis, one easily sees the pass on the ridge. The upper peaks are highly cut and the upper tongue extends over the ridge on a length of 70 m giving access to the steep south slope of the Oygaing. Under the pass, to the right of the tongue, you can file your registration in a box that officially indicates that one has reached the pass of "Soviet builders" (3570 m, 2A). The rise time to the peak is about 4 hours. On the descent route of the pass, towards the Ayutor valley, you can see on the left a small tongue of ice, on which flows water cascades. At the foot of the slopes of scree and snow down reach 50Â°. Here to move down it should be taken to the right of the slope to bypass waterfalls. Lower descent continues along a rocky corridor, where the bottom keeps track of avalanches. The water passes under rocks and reappears nearby Ayutor river. On the right bank of the river, the descent path to the Oygaing is visible, but the reach is almost impossible in the small deep and rocky canyon of river Ayutor flows its powerful stream. Therefore, to move down, you take the steep left bank without any trail. It is in the valley of the Ayutor, that one found the longest glacier Chotan-1 and the main flow of the river Ayutor. This is the longest (4.1 km) glacier from the Chotan group. It starts at an altitude of 2900 m, it rises to 3800 m.

Let us return to the northwest slope down towards the Maydantal, we encounter a left tributary torrent from a glacier called the Karabulak. Here hikers of Tashkent during the summer of 1972, climbed the glacial valley to the main ridge. The description that we give here is from their report at the time. According to the report, the terminal ice mixture is not very steep (not more than 30Â°), but the immediate upper slope is almost twice as steep. Ice is often covered with a layer of compact snow. Perhaps it takes an hour to rise vertically by 50 m (with insurance) and reach a first break in the slope. In addition there are 70 meters of ice climbing. It is better to bypass by the left side on ice border / rock, mainly on the rock. This saves the cutting of steps on ice (technique still used in 1977) and exposure to falling rocks on ice climbing. Then before the glacier ledge, we cross a few hidden crevasses sometimes by snow, it is then necessary to reach the top of the first ice climbing that whe have just avoid the left. The ice here is free of snow, and the glacier surface is littered with many fallen stones from precipices and transported so far. There are frequent transversal, deep crevasses and a width of them up to 1 m on the right (upward direction). This is at the edge of the large lateral moraine on the glacial stream that there is a convenient place to set up a bivouac for the night (3210 m). This part of the glacier forms a sort of circus-shaped cavity carved on the sides of the mountain. Circus is 1.5 km long, 800 m breadth. Its icy surface is meshed of small cracks. The circus is limited by right bank of the rock walls from the top at 4264 meters above sea level in the upper part and on the left by a small glacier. The latter is housed in a narrow corridor between the polished rock walls, through which the mass of accumulated ice is like compressed. His ice flow is strongly tortured by bumps, large crevasses and seracs above rocks and ice projections that seems to flow down the circus. The second stage of the route is more obvious. It is necessary to move to the left side. A first ascent follows the firn glacier ice which includes outcrops on the most steep slopes at 70Â°, between two rocky outcrops. We go up in successive trips between rocks and ice. After a high ascent of 100 m vertically, you have to cross a snow-ice zone around the rocks on the right (on the upward direction) and climb over the top. Here, there is a platform under a rock, where climbers can spend the night, because from the middle of the day until evening, there was a lot of rock falls and blocks ice from the top of the ice cascade. The bivouac place is well protected and it is necessary to wait ideally the refreezing morning which sets the rocks and ice in place. Above the camp site, the route joins the bed of the glacier, sometimes with slopes reaching 50-60Â° inclination. From the edge as soon as possible you have to cross right up the rock face, as you cross over the obstacle of the second ice climbing route. Above the icefall, the circus is slightly smaller in size to the previous circus with diameter 500-600 m. On the right (uphill) low rock walls are covered with large hanging glacier tongues, left, the circus is cut by the third icefall. No one suspected the existence of this stunt before being succeeded there (a 100 m height difference). Almost the entire perimeter of the low circus contains glaciers, causing particularly fragmented glacial landforms (cracks, seracs, bulges). The circus is notched by a huge flaw, upward continuation of the second icefall. To work around this flaw, we must go to the foot of the last Icefall of the circus (its altitude is 3720 m) in about an hour long. On the third ice climbing, it is easier to climb on the right side. The path is steep through packed snow, and it zigzags on ice covered with small stones. Mountaineers went to the edge of a large crevasse crossing ice climbing, via its narrowest point on the plateau, to return again over the course of the glacier. This rift marks the beginning of ice climbing. It was only after the passage of new cracks and snow bridge that one reaches the uppermost ledge of the glacier. Here the passage on the

crest of Maydantal is clearly visible. The pass forms a small platform thin scree, where it is possible to place two to three tents for the bivouac. The total time the first Tashkent climbers put to reach this pass is about 30 hours for a vertical elevation of over 1,000 m. The pioneers called this pass from the name of a Persian novel on the mountain and has been classified as category 3 difficulty (pass Romana Perskogo, AD, AD+, altitude 3900 m). The descent from the pass by the ascent route is much more complicated given the steepness of the slope, it is difficult to perform a tracking path. The route down the opposite side (Ayutor river) that the Tashkent group has taken is a complex journey. He takes the direction of a corridor almost 200 meters long, inclined at 70° with vertical sides, sometimes with a width of 1.5 to 3 m, paved with smooth slabs, but abseiling on string is possible, facilitated by numerous rocky spoilers on the sides. The snow couloir descent, finished below with a steep scree of fine rocks. Then down we cross a scree slope down to the glacier, the main channel of the Ayutor river onto its middle. At the edge of the glacier, there are several large radial cracks. Gradually going down, we move to the left, because the bottom of the glacier is also a maze of crevasses. We finally go along the left edge of the glacier and continue down to reach the terminal tongue (3060 m), then the moraine to a small lake (2900 m). Here, on the right bank of the river appears the track leading to the Oygaing river. Downstream of Maydantal after Karabulak river, its left bank tributary, we encounter always left bank, a tributary river that bears the name Akbulakulkun not Dzhenysu as sometimes some climbers call it on their reports. This tributary also begins in upper glacier on the north face. The moraine is characteristic for its green spots, made from apparent fine material under the ice, following the flow of water and sedimented in the bed of the glacier. The terminal glacial tongue is clearly visible early, located 3040 m on a thin ledge of the valley. The glacier has a significant thrust sheet. And it was only after 500 m from the terminal tongue, through blocks and crushed stone, that we encounter the first cracks. The left bank of the glacier is the largest area of carried debris where is accumulated lots of furniture materials. The glacier upstream faces strong inflection in his courses (a total length of 3.2 km) forming a frozen waterfall. Above the waterfall, glacier bifurcates into two branches: the right branch goes south-east, the left towards the south-west. On this part of the glacier, the area is crisscrossed by “bédières” (melted water streams). The left branch leads to a separate mountainous cirque from main glacier, above which the steepness of the glacier slope decreases, but on the right, slope increases inexorably to the main ridge of Maydantal. The maximum elevation of the glacier is 4050 m. The top edges of Akbulakulkun glacier overlook the watersheds of Ayutor and Tekesh-say. On the side of the Tekesh-say basin, the crest of Maydantal was already reach by mountaineers. At the same effect, on the left circus the ridges are rock walls, interspersed with ice corridors of a tilt up to 60°. The circus glacier is covered with snow and on a distance of about 800 m, the slope is only of 15-20°. Above this area there are an ice climbing on steep lanes. The minimum level of difficulty of the pass to the end of Akbulakulkun glacier is estimated at 3A (AD). At the same upper reaches of the river Maydantal, two left tributaries, the Kokbulak and Karah, come also from two small glaciers, both with a length of about 700 meters, also have the same extension in altitude: 3550 m (lower part) and 4000 m (top). The small glacier Kokbulak has trained dam impressive moraine. About 7 km downstream from the mouth of the river Kokbulak (still down the Maydantal) one meets the Kogurgentor River which originates upstream from seven glaciers covering a total area of

3.3 km2. The mouth of the river forms a narrow valley, facing east, restricted by two powerful lateral spurs of the main ridge of Maydantal. The narrowed river has carted an impressive rising of moraine sediments and partially filled the Maydantal valley at the mouth. At 2920 m above sea level is two small moraine lakes. The front Moraine of the largest glacier in the north of a buttress, completely covers the snout at 3650 m above sea level and gradually merges with the lateral moraines. Recessed in the valley at first, the glacier surface upstream is more strongly corrugated by the jumps of slopes, forming at inflections very large transversal crevasses. The valley bottom is filled by residual avalanches, falling from steep slopes. Glacier highest point is 4100 m. The second glacier further south, is the longest glacier. It happens to be the source of the river Kogurgentor. The glacier froms a U-shaped valley, extends over 2 km from 4100 m to 3400 m, without major fluctuations. The three tributaries of the Maydantal (Akbulakulkun, Kokbulak and Kogurgentor) also have interests as their upstream fuses: indeed in their upper parts, which communicate with the summit ridge of Maydantal can be achieved through Tekesh-say valley, which the mouth in Oygaing is about 5 km downstream from that of the Ayutor river. The track of the Tekesh-say valley climbs on the right bank. Sometimes the trail is poorly marked and lost quite a bit because of its little used. It first passes through the terraces between Oygaing and the entrance to the rocky gorge Tekesh, navigating between the stones scattered in the grassy slopes and bushes. The trail slowly gaining height, with a first view of the moraine areas. At 3100 meters, we approach the glacier tongue. The stream emerges from a deep channel. Here, the valley is relatively wide, but soon becomes narrower and steeper above. Soon the tormented ice flows gets into a narrow corridor of trapped by wild walls. The most convenient passage upstream on the glacier is located on the right. It still requires planning an early exit, to overcome ice climbing in good conditions before the sun comes warm slopes. If time is short, so in this case we look for a bivouac at the left side to continue the course in good condition next morning. For the ascent of the glacier it is particularly long in elevation, ice climbing grows vertically on almost 1 km 200 m. On the left side of the ice climbing, there is a deep and huge crevasse 50 m long, and on the right side, the cracks are smaller, with snow bridges above. Above the glacier surface is less steep (20Â°), but there is still a lot of transversal crevasses. In the middle part of the glacier crevasses are blocked by snow, and a passage on snow bridges is possible. In addition, the glacier is standing up again cascading over a height of about 170 m elevation and a length of about 500 m. Depending on the quantity of snow and the existing schedule of the climb, it is more convenient to cross this part either in the middle or the left. The last section of the ascent route crosses a huge circus, whose north side is completely enclosed by walls of rock, snow and ice. The south side has its rocky cliffs. It is in this top of the main glacier that lies the Tekesh Pass, one of the easiest parts of the sector. Right circus (rise direction) the rocky ridge is robust and there is little obvious pass. On this part of the ridge is still the Kyzyl-Uzbekistan pass. Just farther right above the ridge rises the highest mountain peak of Mayndantal at 4320 meters. The various passes we describe lead either to Akbulakulkun glacier or on the lower crest right towards the Ayutor Valley. To join the side of Akbulakulkun glacier, opposite, we shall proceed to the location of the crest with

a rocky ride feature called the "finger". To access it we go up the slope of a lateral glacier that joins the main Tekesh glacier. In this section the last 120 meters are scree slope with no snow and with a slope gradient of up to 45°. The pass accessed was named Dzhenysu pass. Its altitude is 3870 m, near the turn of the "finger". Getting down Akbulakulkun (which may as well be used as ascent route) also goes down a steep scree and rocks along the left bank of the hanging glacier before reaching the body of the glacier. In the same crest area of the Tower "finger", one can also visit the pass of Kyzyl-Uzbekistan, located on the left. Do not climb directly to the ridge, rather transversely diagonally to the left and reach the main ridge of Maydantal a little southwest. The height of the Kyzyl-Uzbekistan pass is 3910 m (2B rating). For the descent on the slopes of the valley Kokbulak, the Tashkent climbers recommended going around slightly to the right before beginning the descent to join an easier field down to the sources of Kokbulak river. Specifically, from the pass Kyzyl-Uzbekistan, turn right (direction of the rise), we run along the main ridge to cross a wall, and then by a downward crossing on a 40° slope, we come down to the circus. From there, we take the slope of the trail without moraine (appears below). Then just follow the road for several kilometers to the mouth of the Kokbulak in Maydantal (described above). If mountaineers and hikers wishing to travel on Maydantal river, then it is possible to proceed in a different way. Approximately on the middle of the Kokbulak valley there are rock towers at the altitude of 3302 meters (3308 listed on the map). Near these towers is an altitude pass of 3110 m. Then you have to follow a spur to get there and to toggle into the next valley to the south. It passes through a birch wood. Then it only takes 30 minutes of walking to reach the river Maydantal because the terrain is less steep than in the valley of Kokbulak. But back to the description of Tekesh glacier, to talk about the pass of the same name, Tekesh pass. As has been said earlier, is the main glacier of the valley, we climbed without difficulty to an altitude of 4100 m. The slope reaches 35° before the ridge, and at the approach of the pass we must cross two rimayes. The Tekesh pass (3780 m, 2B) is a saddle placed on a narrow rocky edge where the rocks are destroyed to such an extent that they crumble by strong gusts of wind. We go down to the first Kurumbel glacier by scree slopes which then turns into a steep couloir, sometimes interspersed with snow. At 1 km from the main ridge, you should go through the left side of the ice tongue, to avoid any open cross crevasses. At this point the glacier surface, of pronounced blue color, is almost divided into cracked slabs of 5-10 m wide, and the glacier ends with a steep tongue and end moraines tree. Down the descent path from the pass Atdjaïloo (pass pasture) becomes visible. It goes to the southwest and the Atdjaïloo River Valley. It is also continuing on the grassy slopes along the river Kogurgentor. One can also reach the sources of Kogurgentor crossing the ridge from the Oygaing via another of its tributaries, the Turagain, whose mouth is about 5 km downstream from the mouth of Tekesh. The climb starts on the rocks, alternating with short sections of clay soil on the right bank of the river Turagain. On the rise, rather left bank, the valley takes a sharp turn. At this point the valley is dominated by high ridges where you can see the grassy saddles, leading to the Tekesh basin opportunities to the cross to the other valley further north). At 1h30 by walk from the mouth of the river Turagayn we join a birch grove on a distant steep from shore. The trail above becomes difficult due to the overall increase of slopes of the river, with stretches of rapids and waterfalls. The Turagayn valley becomes narrower before addressing the moraine areas (rise). It is better to avoid this by a narrow upper terrace. At this point the river receives a tributary cascading down. Upstream the main riverbed is completely filled with stones and the slope increases to 45°. After 2

hours of walking uphill on the right opens a small glacier strongly convulsed, cracked, and also on this main glacier at the center of which there is a Nunatak (it is possible to guess on the map), topped with a pyramid peak. Here the glacier tongue is 3450 m. To go on the glacier, immediately get in the middle, because the cracks are much narrower than those of the edges. This is also due to the low inclination of the glacier by 20°. After a few hundred meters one meet the first break of slope in ice. Beyond this, is the circus summit (3750 m). In the circus, the last slopes are formed by mixed rock and ice before the crest of Maydantal and are inclined to 60°. But this mixed slope has vires. It's on the last part of the path that you can take one of its ledges along the rock wall. The width of the “vire” is 10 m, leading to a narrow rocky ridge where is the pass of the "sunny ridge" (Solnechnyi pass, about 4100 m, 2A). On the opposite side, there was first a steep slope of coated granite blocks that ends with a cliff with a height up to 30 m. Beyond that, it's still a steep couloir of ice and scree, yet another corridor, then a relatively flat section, followed by a steep exit to the surface of the glacier. On the circus background there is a snowy lake. Trail on the lower part of the glacier is gently sloping following the “bédières” (melted ice stream). The terminal tongue is located at an altitude of 3400 m. Turning to the left (downhill) is the pass of Atdjaïloo: thence along the path of Atdjaïloo river, one reaches the Maydantal. Depending on the desired route and destination, hikers can return to the Maydantal river through the valley of the River Kogurgentor (described just before). South-west ridge of Maydantal, the mountain range is gradually losing height, but his rocky ridge remains narrow and jagged. Near the confluence of the Maydantal and Pskem, shape reliefs become softer, with grassland and covered terraces with few and scattered juniper bushes. In this region, at an altitude of 2150 m, in the Kokrenchat opposite the Oygaing, there is a weather station.

The Ugam Range and western part of the Talas Ala-Too Cartography: maps 50 000th: K42-070-1, K42-070-2, K42-070-3; 100 000th: K42-058, K42-069, K42-070, K42-080, K42-081; 200 000th: K42-17, K42-23. A powerful mountains node has been formed from Talas Ala-Too, at sources of Aksu and Zhabagly rivers, from its height of 3986 meters (4027 Peak Akcyam on the map) the mountain turns into several ears: the Zhabagly-Too, Ala-Too, Bugulytor-Too. These spurs are within the watersheds of rivers Aksu and Zhabagly. The river is bounded to the south by the main ridge of the Ugam, the Mounts Baldabrek (name of the river that takes its source). The Ugam range extends north from the Talas Ala-Too, in the region of Maydantal pass and forms the watershed divide between the great watersheds of the two main rivers of the region the Arys and the Pskem northeast and between the two small watersheds of rivers Pskem and Ugam in the southwest. Nearly 75,000 hectares of northwest land is dedicated to the nature reserve of AksuDzhabagly, created in 1926 between the Talas Ala-Too and the adjacent part of the Ugam. The valley of the river Dzhabagly forms gentle relief and is accessible without major difficulty for hiking almost everywhere. From the village of Novonikolayevka, where there is a reserve management center, upstream of the river until its tributary the Ulkenkaindy, there is a road track. From the entrance of the reserve Dzhabagly to sources at an altitude above 2500 m, there is a distance of 18-19 km of climb. The valley Dzhabagly is a typical glacial trough of 2-3 km wide, with numerous signs of erosion. In this broad valley bottom, the river and its various tributaries form deep, narrow slots (up to 100-200 m). The trail starts from the valley on the left bank, on the slopes of the relatively flat crest of Ala-Too mountains where large terraces overlooking the river bed. From the main runway to the crest there are several possible paths via the side tributaries. For one of these paths, via the valley of the River Kashy-Kaindy, the trail winds between the stones, crosses the stream and then up towards the pass Kshi-Kaindy or Kashy-Kaindy (3120 m, 1A, Kashy-Kaindy on the map). Upstream of the Dzhabagly Valley road track reaches the next left tributary, the Ulken-Kaindy. There the road trail ends and turns into a mountain trail. Following the trail to the east, we cross during several kilometers zones of bushes, several watersheds tributary streams and then goes down to the Baydak-say River. From the heights it begins to reveal a small lake below, the Lake Kyzylgen-kul. If we continue the path to the east, after a slight increase in the slope to the next foothill, it runs along the southeast basin of Lake Kyzylgen-kul, which is in the form of a tray, then through a torrent rise just one time to immediately descend to the bed of the river Kaskabulaka. On the upper reaches of the Kaskabulaka ,you better go take the left bank, where remains the traces of an ancient path. The upper reaches of the river Kaskabulaka is rarely visited by people, so here you can meet with many wild animals and birds. The valley of this river comes up against a huge cliff of dark gray color, where is located at their top some small glaciers. The river Kaskabulaka comes from the melting of three of these small glaciers.

Maxim Gorki Ary c

Aryc

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Zhabagly-Too

Novonikolaïevka

Zhab

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Ala-To o

Ulken-

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Col de Kaschi-Kayn

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Kyzylgen-Kul Bay dak -sa y

Kshi-A kc

3926

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Pic Ak

Col Mayndantal

As hu u-t or

Col de Baldabrek

Baldabrek

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Col Korum Col tor Sibiri akov Col Karat Col or S u Col S hynkili dyk aïla e ne dj Pic gal Kor Sa say yra torms Co Kara ky am l Ig i4 Ug ri D 23 ut or 6m ob Col Siurpriz Ay ro et C Shymk Co ï Bo Col Co ol X lA li l S olo Sa yuto ay r ram dnyi yr am Co -s lS uu y ne m Pic Ay zn e utor 37 yi 66m lS o C Col Glastnogologov

ta an

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Col Burevestnik ou Petrel-II Col Syrovyi (brigantina)

4027m

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Bala-Baldabrek

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Maydantal

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Maydantal

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Karakyzsay

Tepar

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Col Polytnyi

Azarteke-say

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Badal-say

ba sta u

Pia zly -sa alsa y

Pskem

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Kaynazar-say.

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Col Olympinskyi

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Col Obmanchivyy (trompeur)

msk yi

Col Ps kem Col sk Col Ur Kyrymdjol yi unga Col Ta shGY sh

am Ug

yi anitn Col Gr nko tiube Col Pa

garine Col Ga

Col 3370 Col U ga

Col Kop tau rodka nyy Col Na in en byed O Col

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Col Tykenek ou Sayragyr Col Novichok

Col Mynchuku rbel

Col Gyza Ps ke m

Col Karagy

Nanay Ugam

Lac réservoir de Charvak

Burchmulla

Orographic scheme of Ugam range and Western part of Talas Ala-Too

Probably nobody often rises on this part of the crest of the Ala-Too: the descent from the crest to the Kshi-Aksu river is not possible because of high cliffs from a height of more than 500 m. Beyond the Kaskabulaka River on the course of Dzhabagly-Bashi river, the valley then turns south. On the right bank of the river, the slopes below the crest of Dzhabagly strongly climbs above the water, but on the left bank slopes are gentler on the other hand, covered with bushes. At higher altitudes, deciduous trees disappear, leaving only the junipers, which develop as annular cushions. The valley is closed by a rocky ridge in the eastern part where the top 3986 m is located. At the summit of steep slopes there are high circuses of small glaciers, forming the origins of Dzhabagly river. There is no information available at the moment on the transition from the upper ridge of the Ala-Too above the river Dzhabagly to the sources of the river Kshi-Aksu (for small Aksu). The south side of the Ala-Too mountains is very steep, many rocky outcrops scratch the wall on the right bank of the Kshi-Aksu River. The river valley forms a true canyon, narrow and deep (600-700 m). In the canyon floor, the bubbling torrent of 4-6 m wide jumps into cascades. On the left bank, the northern slope of the ridge of Bugulytor-Too, also very high and steep, rises above the valley floor 200-300 m above. The left bank of Kshi-Aksu receives a whole series of tributaries, often from small glaciers above. The upper valley of Kshi-Aksu ends with a circus, whose vertical slopes form an entire duct system which is able to accommodate some small glaciers. In the valley at an altitude of about 2500 m, there is a huge field of snow in some years tends to remain permanent. In such cases, the river flows sometimes on or above the firn, and forms like a bĂŠdiĂ¨re upon the hardened snow. It can carves tunnels and snow caves. The upper ridge of the sources of Kshi-Aksu river borders the basins of Dzhabagli and Ulken-Aksu River. This ridge separation is very high at the altitude of 4042 m (peak Dzhabagly or Akcyam). And as far as we know, this part of the ridge is not very frequented by tourists. South of the Kshi-Aksu River is the major rock bar of Bugulytor-Too, which borders the north of the Bugulytor River Valley. On the north side of the mountain Bugulytor, there is a number of small glaciers and south sides are steep and rocky. Their mineral look remind the southern slopes of the Kshi-Aksu area. The craggy Bugulytor-Too rises up to 3926 m. The Bugulytor valley is narrow and runs to the south and southeast in an east-west direction, it is relatively limited in length and the river has a rather low outflow. It is bordered by the north face of the crest of the Aksu mountain, where there are a few small glaciers that feed the river. South of the mountains is the valley of the natural reserve of the Aksu River. Leaving the mountain, by the erosion of its waters, the Aksu River pierced its way into clusters and impressive columns of conglomerates and form indeed a deep gorge. The canyon of Aksu is a unique natural phenomenon of its kind: a length of 18 km, it has a depth of up to 500-600 m. These upper edges are located at a distance of 400-500 m from each other. The steep slopes of the canyon fall from a height of 200 m on average. The canyon is also equipped with a small terraces network of ledges alternating with roofs overlooking the steep cliff. The diversity of geological formations can be observed on almost the entire length of the canyon. If one follows the course of the Aksu River in the canyon for a distance of 18-20 km, you reach the confluence of the rivers Kshi-Aksu and Ulken-Aksu. Above the Ulken-Aksu river is often simply referred to as Aksu. About 3 km above the confluence of the Aksu River flows a small river tributary left (south direction). In its upper reaches is the Baldabrek pass, which was initially

reached by a group of mountaineers and hikers of Tashkent in 1962. It takes about two hours to go up straight on a steep slope, then onto a rocky scree until the fork of two rivers, which are often both filled with large snow fields early in the season. We must continue to climb along the bed of the good torrent. We can recognize it in its upper rocky ridge on the left bank, regular made and rather flattened, composed of broken rocks. It is easier to ride along the hardened snow firn. Above, the snow couloir becomes more pronounced with at the circus center, the Baldabrek pass (3300 m, 1B). From the junction of the rivers Aksu to the pass it covers all 5:00 in time. About 8-9 km of climb to the Baldabrek pass, the Aksu has another tributary, which flows where starts the crest of the actual Ugam, from the Baldabrek Mountains. After 3 km of climb, the trail goes through a left tributary directly to the crest of the Ugam above the Maydantal river valley (the Pskem basin). Here, the distance between the Aksu rivers and Maydantal ridge is about 10 km. Because the top of the Aksu River is infrequently visited by hikers, the trail can be interrupted in some places. On the banks there are birch, honeysuckle, barberry, and creeping juniper bushes in higher altitude. On the slopes of the crest of the Ugam, the eternal snows are visible between from time to time other rocks, which contribute to feed small left tributaries of the Aksu. The slopes of the right bank of the valley are formed by steep cliffs of whimsical form, the result of the erosion of time (air, water, cold). In some places, the rocks form staircase ledges filled with juniper bushes. Between cliffs, the slopes are green. At a certain altitude, hardwood species disappear, leaving most of the time instead juniper near the ground. The landscape gradually acquires alpine features, on rivers are often encountered snow bridges. At an altitude of about 3000 m from the main bed of the Aksu River, rises a powerful left wild spur, descending from the snowy peaks, and the huge scree slopes. The range of Ugam and that of the Talas Ala-Too stand separately from the upper reaches of the river Korumtor. This last river flows towards the Maydantal river, whose development is quite short passes in a place where we talked about earlier in the book. In the vicinity of Korumtor pass, the Ugam range meets the crest of Baldabrek Mountains. They both share the basins of the Aksu and Baldabrek rivers, and one of the spurs is the watershed line between Baldabrek and its tributary the north Balabaldabrek river. The sources of Balabaldabrek River are located in two (or three) parallel valleys to each other and separated by the main summit of Baldabrek Mountains (3694 m). The two valleys ends in glacial cirque, and in the right one is located the Petrel-II pass (Burevestnik, the bird), rather aerial as the name suggests. The climb of the valley leads to three successive moraine rises, each 100 to 150 m high. Direct access to Petrel-II pass (Burevestnik, 3350 m, 2A) is relatively easy through the snowy slope. From there you can observe the Peak SaĂŻramskiy (4236, the highest point in the range of Ugam) and several peaks around this mountain. Before descending the pass, one has to go to the left along the rocky ridge for about 300 m, to arrive at the base of a wide corridor that you begin to descend. The corridor is intersected by a projection of steep rock slabs, it is then necessary to move cautiously. Lower the descent is divided into three narrower corridors. The most convenient to below is the left. The rocks become more steep and it takes half an hour to cross 50 meters from a steep wall. Lower one reaches a long scree slope down to the river Baldabrek. A 7-8 km from the top of the main ridge of the Ugam, the Baldabrek river splits into two branches: one on the right continues its course eastward, source of the river, the left back to the south. The left branch reaches the crest which is bordered by the basins of the rivers Korumtor and Ayutor (both

are tributaries of the river Maydantal). The information on this section of the ridge of the Ugam are not available at the moment (date 1977). In the top right of the source of Baldabrek you reach the pass of Korumtor, leading to the Maydantal basin. Upper Baldabrek valley becomes a floodplain and along the banks of alluvial branches and talus, grow bushy banks of tall grass. Just after the confluence of the last left tributary of the River Baldabrek, we begin to climb the first snow fields, limestone cliffs soon form a continuous length of 4 km higher. Snowfields continues a long time in the crunch of the valley. Then gradually the valley widens and we succeed in swampy areas above sea level, with some small lakes. At the next trail junction, the Korumtor pass is right above the valley. Sources of the River Baldabrek are in a huge circus. Northeast is a pass at 3455 meters above sea level which allows going down into the Aksu valley. Southeast, the Korumtor pass is as â&#x20AC;&#x153;suspendedâ&#x20AC;? between two peaks provided with a huge snow cornice. The steep ice and the many crevasses do not allow us to climb "front" to this pass. It is better to go to a buttress on the northwest, toward the upper left (direction of the rise) and then back along the ridge to reach the pass. The climb of the buttress is simple, but tedious in the recognition of the route, requiring some precautions. The distance is only 1 km to Korumtor Pass (3300 m, 2A). Since the gorges, down the valley, it takes up to five hours to reach the pass. Then the descent on the other side, the length of the Korumtor river down to the Maydantal River, is a little over 12 kilometers. The area described here so far is in the nature reserve Aksu-Dzhabagly. Remember that this reserve is very diverse and rich in fauna and flora. There are 1200 species of plants, including 16 species of trees, 62 species of shrubs, and no less than 200 species of medicinal plants. In the mountains there are tulips, crocus, bathers, anemones, primroses, forget-me and other flowers. The animal world is also remarkable. In the nature reserve and its nearest foothills were recorded up to 238 species of birds, 42 species of mammals, 9 species of reptiles, two species of amphibians and fish. Most wildlife is found in the belt of middle altitude mountains. This area is home to more than half of the number of birds in the reserve. Among mammals, there are foxes, badgers, martens, weasels and deer. In winter go down there: ibex, bighorn sheep, wolves and a few and too rare snow leopards. In the subalpine zone it is a particularly interesting place where brown bears take refuge in caves cliffs and dense thickets of creeping juniper. From there they go up in the summer to snow fields, in order to feed it the lush vegetation. For example they love the fallen wild apples. In lean years they can go down to the piedmont area. To complete the description of the hikes in the reserve of Aksu-Dzhabagli, we will say more about the Korumtor Valley and the northern part of the Ayutor river, bordering the Baldabrek river. The descent from the pass of Korumtor first takes a desert scree. We find a visible track towards a lake moraine southwest, located at an altitude of 3200 m and powered by the flow of a glacier cirque, located 300 m above. Around the lake there are huge stone block. In the Korumtor circus there are two other small glaciers. The highest glacier at 3560 m, is the most one in the west, it stretches from the left edge of the slopes of the main ridge. Near the top of the glacier tongue, near the summit of 3610 m altitude, is a pass on the crest of the Ugam which also led to the Baldabrek Valley. Downstream of the confluence of the sources of Korumtor river, a path leads to the right bank, then through the left bank. Initially, the river flows south-east, but soon it turns south, reaching its confluence with Maydantal.

In the lower reaches, the Korumtor receives a right tributary, the Karator-say (confluence at 2540 m). The Karator-say has two branches, whose waters come from a glaciers system on the peaks above. The left sourcee has its origin in a glacier cirque (1 km long) located on the slope of Peak 4083, the highest in the area. Three of the five glaciers are located immediately under the main ridge of the Ugam. The most important of them (1.5 km long) is located in the southeast. The climb of these glaciers is used to cross the main ridge and conduct us from Karator-say valley to the sources of Baldabrek river. In the valley of Korumtor there is often widespread snow bridges over the river. Before the trail reaches the mouth of the river a few kilometers down, it crosses a big scree formed by large debris up to the same river bed. At 1 km from the mouth appear the first tree plantations, mainly birch, with a hint of Talov and shrubs. The tree density increases downstream. Before reaching the mouth of the river Maydantal, there is full of groves of trees forming real forests. They extend from the confluence downstream to the mouth of the Ayutor river and further. The Ayutor River joins the River Maydantal right, The mouth is located 1.5 km downstream of Korumtor. The basin of the river Ayutor covers approximately 80 square kilometers. Among other feature there are 17 glaciers with a total area of 14 square kilometers. In relation to the total surface covered by the basin, the ice surface is thus relatively large. The Ayutor river finds its sources of several glaciers, especially placed on the larger absolute heights of the range of Ugam. Indeed upstream of one of the sources is the highest point of the crest of the Ugam, the Sayram Peak (4238 m or Sayramskiy). The main direction of the valley is almost always right, from south-west to north-east, at the mouth of the river it suddenly changes direction towards the southeast. The length of the valley is about 15 km away. In the upper part of the valley it has a profile very marked of glacial trough, and there is in the course below many remains of glacial thrusting. The trail leading to the top of the Ayutor river is along the right bank, sometimes it rise above the slope, to spend significant jumps on the river. About 5 km from the mouth, the forest zone disappears and only remain, on the slopes of the left bank, few tufts of junipers. The tops of the left bank are subject to direct sunlight, they are more dislocated than that of the right bank of the valley, built from solid gray rocks and a large basement monoliths. In the lower course of the river Ayutor there is almost no tributaries, and it is only three hours' walk from the mouth of the river that one crosses the first (right) tributary. After 4-5 km further upstream the Ayutor takes the flow of a small tributary, and further upstream of the valley is the Chimkent pass (climbed in 1965 by Shymkent hikers). To do this we first climbed the grassy slopes, and a large scree. There on the right (uphill direction) the pass is visible on a jagged ridge like a citadel at the height of 3987 m. The scree continues with a stony lane 40° tilt and above starts the final moraine. Then there is a small glacier a kilometer long, with some crevasses, but it is easy to avoid them. The glacier slope weakens and gives way to a firn just before the crest in the final scree slope. The pass is located at the foot of the Peak 4092 m (on the right in the direction of ascent, 4101 on the map) and a tumbledown rock tower. The height of the Chimkent pass is 3850 m (II listing). On the opposite side (West direction), we began a first slope of scree and 500 m of firn of tilt 50° north facing (rope insurance is required), and gradually move closer to the right edge of the glacier, where some small cracks are located. Most of them are longitudinal and can be opened with snow bridges. So it is better to keep on the right side to the lateral moraine. Reached a lake, the trail begins to descend the river Kordjaïlau, but it turns above the confluence of

its three tributaries. Further down the valley, the KordjaĂŻlau flows right into the Sayram-suu river. Before reaching a forest house in the valley, it takes about 15 kilometers away from the lake. From there, just follow the dirt road for the descent. Much lower, a road bridge crosses a tributary of Sayram, the Saryaygyr. The road is used for the gathering of milk, feeding village of Sandoz with dairy milk product. We return now to the Ayutor Valley. The overall slope is not greater than 20Â°. The moraine ridges on the side tributaries climbs like banner. The walk through the valley is relatively simple: at a distance of over 10 km, the ascent is only 800 meters with an absolute height of 2880 m. The Ayutor receives a right tributary, which begins in the Ayutor-2 glacier. This Glacier circus extends over a length of about 4 km. In water feeding, this glacier is associated with the Ayutor-2A glacier. Not far from the glacier tongue rises a "Nunatak", from which another moraine start. The glacier area around the "Nunatak" is generally quite flat and sufficiently cracked. At 1 km from the moraine tree, wide frontal field carries materials with sharp edges where the ice flows are stronger. At the top of Ayutor-2 Glacier is the pass Snegomernyi (pass of the snow height). Hikers do not pass on this glacier in general, they prefer to follow the passage of Ayutor-2A glacier, but the passage is possible nonetheless. Opposite the ice mouth of the river, is a characteristic cliff with concentric circular geological folds, as if they had been painted by the fantasy of nature. The mouth of torrrent is located at an altitude of 3050 m. Above the moraine began a steep frontal glacier tongue, then it flattens and again start a steeper slope of ice/snow. This is the passage taken by mountaineers and hikers through the Ayutor-2 glacier. The surface of the glacier is not heavily cracked and cracks are quite narrow and clearly visible, that crosses it from one end to the other. On the upper ridge of glacial cirque there are three depressions, on the rightmost of them (in the direction of the rise) is the Snegomernyi Pass (3630 m, the pass of the snow depth, 1B). The seat of the pass is completely covered with ice. Below the pass, on the descent of the opposite side is a measuring height of snow (hence the name of the pass). The workers of meteorological station come several times a year to record the snow level, this station is installed at the junction between the Maydantal and Oygaing (Pskem) (year 1977). The last major glacier basin of Ayutor valley is the main source of the river. The configuration of the cirque is quite complex, so it is difficult to accurately determine the linear dimensions of the glacial cirque and the maximum elevation of the tongue. We only know that the open part of the glacier starts at an altitude of 3300 m, its surface area is about 3.8 square kilometers and its highest point is 4000 m (located in the northwestern part of the circus under the slopes of the peak Sayram). This glacier communicates with the valley at the sources of Sayram-suu river by Ayutor Pass (3600 m, 2B). Downstream of the Ayutor river, the road runs along the wood (birch, Tal, poplar, ash, abundant bushes), climbing some foothills and then down to the water's edge. The waters of the river are very plentiful even at the end of the summer, and rush noisily among the many large blocks of stone in the bed. At the mouth of the valley of the River Maydantal, space is very large, and in its lower part it is covered with an abundance of grasses. Further downstream of Maydantal, facing left tributary of At-Djailoo, a hand path starts towards the valley of the right tributary Turpakbel. At the mouth of Turpakbel, the river falls sharply in the Maydantal, making impractical area to ford it. This is the reason why the trails start further upstream on the Maydantal. At the confluence of Maydantal and Turpakbel valleys, the two rivers are wide, and the shores are covered with woody vegetation dominated by birch. The General Direction of Turpakbel Valley is from west to east. The north side is bordered by the Ayutor Basin, West Basin by the Anaulgen-say, the south by the Kaynazar-say River.

The trail climbs towards the valley and through the first left tributary of Turpakbel then down towards the main river banks, although it is far enough away from the water. Successive ascents and descents are not higher than 30Â° on a well-beaten path. At the second left tributary, the trail passes over a scree and then rises steeply on the moraine. The vegetation suddenly becomes poorer, and we already see the mountain cirques of the sources of Turpakbel river. The trail passes close to the merger of the two sources of the river, and we follow the left tributary. Here the path encounters an old moraine and reaches a broad platform where usually horses graze. In the confines of the ledge on the three sides, there is an access to higher glacier tongues. In front of each of the glaciers, there are moraine deposits. Sources of the River Turpakbel are limited to the height of the upper rocky ridge that goes from 3501 m to 3909 m. Under this crest there is small glaciers that are the sources of the river. The Turpakbel pass is to the right of a small glacier at about 3320 m above sea level and on the left of a larger glacier that rises higher elevations to 3909 m, where the watersheds of three rivers Ayutor, Anaulgen-say and Turpakbel meet. The various sources of Turpakbel merges at 2765 meters, the valley is a typical trough shape. The upper part of the left basin is occupied north by actual glaciers. In the upper part of the crest, the glacier also form a network of branched moraines. The lower part of the glacier tree is located at an altitude of 3100 m, the solid ice are 100 m above. In the upper part of the glacier, crossings are possible to the valleys of Ayutor and Anaulgen-say. It is the right tributary that leads to Turpakbel pass. Located at an altitude of 2800 m, the trail climb goes up on a moraine which forme a sort of ledge. As long as we stay on the moraine, the trail is very visible, but once arrived in the snowfields, it loses and encounters the crevasses of the glacier. But the direction of the pass is readily detectable. It may remain the presence of a snow cornice at first before the pass. In order to get around without taking the risk of exposing from its dislocation, we prefer to climb the ridge on the left side to the crest then back down slightly to the Turpakbel pass (3264 m, 1A). On the other side it goes down to the basin of the river Anaulgen-say. South of Pass the rocky ridge is more cut. The valley of the Anaulgen-say offers a magnificent landscape upstream of the river. But before this description, let's start with the downstream of the Anaulgen-say River where it flows into the Pskem. To this end, it is necessary to go down geographically the Maydantal to its mouth with Oygaing, then follow the right bank of the river Pskem until a road bridge over the River Anaulgensay (about 35 to 38 km downstream, counting from the mouth of the river Turpakbel, 1300 m altitude, 7 km upstream from the village of Chatkal/Pskem). Before the Anaulgen-say once opens into the broad valley of the Pskem river, the rocky valley forms a real "door". The trail climbs to the right bank. The valley has a general direction rather from North to South, with a length between 18 and 20 km. In the basin, the river sometimes flows southwest. Upstream the valley widens coating a changing aspect in altitude: rocks are less visible, junipers and pastures appear. Then the gorge narrows again where the waters of the Anaulgen-say rolls among the rocks, and the trail is located then sometimes 200 meters above the water. Then the valley widens again. Side slopes then become relatively mild and are covered with grass and juniper trees. The path here is not particularly difficult. At about 13-15 km from the mouth of the Anaulgen-say, you have to ford the river (you must be careful on that passage because the water reaches the knees and has a width of up to 6 m). At 1 km upstream of the crossing, there is a good place to camp close to the woods and a large stone erected. The erected stone and the camp are just over half an hour walk from the terminal moraine of the glacier Turpakbel and one must also count another hour until Turpakbel pass. On this section of the

trail, we walk by the southern Turpakbel Glacier, along the left bank of the river and along a slope covered with grass and small flowers. Then the trail rises sharply above a projection of an old moraine to cross to the other side. Here begins the path that winds steeply up to 60° inclination to the pass. In some places, the trail crosses snowfields, where you can sink to the knee. Finally we reach the top of Turpakbel pass. Glaciologists had counted up to 17 glaciers of small and large sizes in the Anaulgen-say valley. One of them is almost imperceptible during the ascent to the pass of Turpakbel. To the left and right of the pass, there are permanent snowfields, remains of a glacier that gradually disappears. But back to the camp of the great monolith. Not far away merge two streams, which gives rise to the left branch of the Anaulgen. The creek flows right under the snowfields of a fairly marked valley. Before stepping on snowfields, the path goes along the right bank of the river, overcoming some obstacles in the foothills. The climb in the rocks is not very difficult: the slope does not exceeds 50° tilt. Above the tightening of the valley, it is more convenient to climb the right lane (direction of the rise) leading to a small upper snowfield. The altitude is 3060 m. Snow form scattered plaques, that is slowing our movement. Over the last moraine, we encounter a glacier. Since the moraine (3420 m), the ascending route becomes more complex. From there to reach the pass, it takes about an hour, depending on snow conditions. The total time from camp at the confluence of waters to the pas may take 8-10 hours for an elevation gain of about 1,000 m. As we have previously stated, the Anaulgen basin includes 17 glaciers. The most powerful of them is located in the right part of the sources of Anaulgen river. It fit directly to the main crest of the Ugam range. At this point it reached an altitude of 3896 m. But we do not have more information about the passage of the pass there. If any information then existed, so mountaineers hikers could go to the sources of rivers Ayutor (passes to the north) and Sayram-say (passes to the west). If you climb on the left arm of the sources of Anaulgen-say, taking a route slightly higher than the Turpakbel pass, we see that the detrital area on the ridge is especially powerful and that it extends partly into the lower valleys. The crest at this point is the edge of a sharp bend in the valley profile. Above the cornices, the strongly crumbled rocks on rugged mountains, are surrounded by steep debris that run into the valley, depressions are the remnants of ancient glaciers. The upper valley is shaped trough. It was previously occupied by a huge glacier, to the point of his inflection. Modern glaciers are no more than the remains of this ancient and gigantic complex icefield. The leftmost glacier is interesting, despite its small size, in that it has formed a huge moraine that extends far into the valley. In the upper part of the main crest, this glacier forms a broad saddle. The following describes the western glacier to the circus, the largest in the region. It is surrounded by steep walls, where snow remains generally in summer season. The glacial stream flows into a rather large and hollow channel and its length from the ridge to the end of his tongue was almost 1.1 km, with a width of more than 250 m. The beginning of the glacier is located at an altitude of 3300 m. On the surface, in the longitudinal cracks, it forms “bédières” of meltwater, but most cracks are mainly transverse on significant inflections of the slope, so that the upward movement of the glacier becomes more difficult. The ultimate moraine is very short with very steep slopes (up to 75°), the bottom of the moraine is located at an altitude of 2890 m. The glacier inflection is stronger on its right bank forming this side more and deeper crevasses. Downstream, the trail on Anaulgen-say continues down towards the Pskem river, making frequent sharp turns in order to circumvent the foothills and many vertical walls that go directly down to the river. After 6-8 km descent, the trail reaches the heights of Pskem Valley, it continued for 1 km hillside to cross the bridge over the river Karakyz-say, a narrow gorge that leads next lower into the

Pskem Valley. The terminal basin of Karakyz-say river forms a vast territory bordering several basins, like those of Sayram-suu, Sayragyr and Ugam rivers. The higher Karakyz-say, at the foot of the Peak 3512 m, is situated practically at the junction between the mountains of Ugam and those of Korzhantau. However, despite its location and extent, the river is hardly visited by hikers who have intentions to cross the crest of the Ugam at this location. We know that its glacial basin covers a total glaciation area of 2.3 km2 and the largest glacier extends along a narrow strip of 2.2 km long. The trail that goes up the Karakyz-say, strongly starts for about 150 meters, then gradually descends to the river Agalyk-say (Ahala-say on the map) and then goes up regularly over a distance of about 7 km generally straight. Just below the Agalyk-say, the path is joined by that which comes from the road from the village on the Pskem river. Before the village of Pskem in the valley, a path goes up to the northwest on the steep valley of the river Korumdzhol-say. The valley narrows after 3-4 km climb. The path in the narrow gorge is marked by numerous traces of avalanches, which partially masks its path. Here we must be very careful not to lose the trail, passing on the side rocks, which rises to the right (in the direction of the rise) of the slope. The climb is sometimes tedious, since the inclination is steep (35-40Â°) and the grassy slope that covers the end of the corridor is interspersed with boulders and small screes. After 3 km climb it is then able to join vast fields of detritus and debris that must be crossed between the rocky islets. The trail here is very poorly marked, it leads to the rock, and then from there to the higher Korumdzhol-say and the sources of Urungach-say, a left tributary. The trail rises to an elongated and flat saddle, lightly covered with scree. This is the pass of Korumdzhol whose classification in the Pskem region is 1A, 3570 m (border between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan). Many hikers go to the Ugam valley through this pass, but sometimes they can be wrong on the way down. Having lost the track, it may either get down the rocky ledges of the source of left Urungashsay river, or continue straight along the main channel of Korumdzhol-say (opposite side). The two possible routes are more difficult in anyway (about 1B or 2A). In our opinion, there is the need to clearly demarcate the downward path: the descent on the left side of the Korumdzhol-say classified as 1A and through the side of left source of the Urungash-say, classified as 1B. On the way down the pass, it is necessary to cross for a time through an area of screes and jumps, sometimes covered with snow. In the corridors, the snow is often dense and packed, caused by ancient avalanches. It takes an hour and a half walk before joining a squeeze along the river, it is then necessary to climb almost the summit of foothills of a slope to the left. All left tributaries of the upper reaches of the river Ugam are generally quite similar to each other, and on this side of the mountain, it is difficult to find a suitable pass to move on on the other side. From this point of view the passage of the crest of the Ugam is more convenient from the slope of the Pskem river. 3 km downstream of the village of Pskem, the dirt road makes a huge loop through the Urungachsay river valley, on a bridge. Along the river, there is a road junction following the bed and that leads to a bee farm (1977) on a 3 km track. The trail leads to a small reservoir on the river (60 to 70 m long, 25-30 m wide, with a height varying according to the season but may increase considerably). The trail passes on the west bank of the lake and continues to climb along the river. Soon the water disappears under the rubble of scree and the access road to the upper pass is left. If you continue straight on, in the north-west direction, with no path through 7-8 km climb, we reached the main ridge of the Ugam, close enough to the Korumdzhol pass. On the left (in the direction of the rise) there is the pass of the Urungash named in the official classification the Uruksay pass or Urungash (3400 m, 1B). To get to this pass, turning left, the trail rises steeply from massive rocks interspersed with sections

of debris, including the growing of impressive sizes juniper bushes. Only after a short rise of 50 m, it is difficult to find the path from the rubble in the area. The route is so well hidden in the right rocky valley, that it is easy to get wrong. This is directly in height on the axis and the front of the lake. The lake stretches along the valley for about 1 km and reaches a width of about 400 m. Upstream of Lake, the trail departs somewhat from the water and then returns to the small lake formed at the confluence of two rivers Urumgach. These two rivers are created by downstream snowfields, directly down the slopes of the crest of the Ugam which here rises above 3500 m. The eastern tributary of Lake upstream flows under the rocks, following the apparent bed of the river, it was not until downstream that it resurface from depths onto the lake. The valley in the spring is marked by numerous traces of avalanches. Above, the field has been expanded, but the slopes are steep to access it and frequently interrupted by debris of avalanches. Closer to the summit ridge of Ugam, there are many compact limestone outcrops. The Tashkent Mountaineers and hikers there been crossing the area in 1973, and noted the possibility of passing through four passes, with the most right (direction of the rise) named the pass "of Tashkent State University" or TashGY (3340 m, 1B). However, the increasing influx of hikers from the Urungash-say valley takes rather the leftmost pass to follow a lateral spine, followed by a direct access to the crest of the Ugam. This rise in the same valley can be listed 2A. The descent from the ridge to the Ugam valley is much easier: a gentle slope not exceeding 45° tilt which flattens downstream and leads to the circus. From there, there are 4-5 km to the river of Ugam. The valley to the west of the lake is much larger than the left valley. The main ridge in the upper part of the watershed has a length of about 6 km between 3575 m and 3627 m. The descent into the Urungash-say river valley here is very complicated and difficult, through scree corridors that lead to steep cliffs. Mountaineers will have identified five mountain passes in the mountainous circus. Under the passes called "lake" and "Paleozoic", there is a beautiful mountain lake, along a small left tributary of the Ugam river. To achieve such “Lake” pass, climb a strong 50° slope technically quite simple. The height of the pass of the lake is 3350 m. If we continue to cross the ridge to the right, to the north, you can see a snow field and then the lake below. Go down to the lake can be much more difficult: the rocks here have a near vertical tilt up to 80°. As against to the south, there is the area of a large plateau along the ridge, which then falls by cliffs that dominate the Urungach-say valley. At the end of the plateau at the summit of 3627 m, you can descend to the valley by a corridor, which becomes progressively weaker in inclination. With the loss of altitude the snow slowly disappears and below in the circus appears under the snow and between the rocks, the shy flow of the river. Each meter the flow becomes more important. Following the rocky riverbed it goes down until the Urungash lake. Continuing along road on the right bank, downstream the Pskem Valley, after the mouth of the Urungash-say, one crosses several small tributaries, and it bypasses several villages and the larger village Tepar. Here, the branch of a trail is near the small houses on the left bank at the mouth of a major tributary of Pskem, the Tepar-say. The sources of Tepar River begins just below the top of the ridge of Ugam (in its peak at 3627 m), bordered by the headwaters of the left tributaries of the Ugam, the Piazly-say, the Makbala-say and Hazarteke. We have only some small indication about this route taken from rivers leading to Sesay pass. The road runs along the left bank of Tepar-say. The trail crosses the Kuruk-say (Kur-say on the map), its left tributary, and rises to the confluence of the Badala-say torrent (left) and Kykyz-say, a tributary where Tepar River begins. Then we must move on Badala-say until the confluence with the left tributary, the Uygurluu. Here we must raise onto the Badala-say river and ford crossing the stream

from time to time to reach the Sesay pass. From the village of Tepar to this confluence which gives birth to the Badala-say river, it takes about 6-7 hours, and from the source to the ridge about 4 hours. Back to the last confluence, up the course of Badala-say river, one reaches a jump and a slope of scree to 30Â°, then a partially stony corridor overgrown by grass. The corridor widens and turns to the left (uphill) to result in a circus in altitude 3138 m. In the left corner (direction of the rise) of the circus is situated the seat of the pass. The pass is traded on the left by a scree slope and after a steep snow slope. The pass is often defended by a strong cornice, and one need go around before reaching the Sesay pass (3300 m, 1B). In the Sesay Pass area, start from the crest of the Ugam, a spur between the headwaters of rivers Makbala-say and Piazly (Piezely-say on the map). In the circus of Makbala River is a large lake possibly still partially covered with snow in early summer. The descent to the lake follows a series of moraine and grassy slopes. Down along the river Makbala-say, one must also ford the stream occasionally. It takes 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the lake in the Makbala Valley. The shape of the lake follows the contours of the valley, with 1 km length and width up to 500 m. The cliffs that fall directly into the water and the remaining snow of winter, give to the water a deep and disturbing blue appearance. In the West, there are boulders and a poorly marked trail on the soft side. The second tributary feeding the lake, is much less important. A mound at the edge of the river is covered with dense grass, studded with bright colors touches, these are wild tulips. The lower part of the river Makbala is full of large rock, and presents a desertlike look, when going down through several steep couloirs from above. Further down the valley narrows, compressed between high limestone cliffs. The track sometimes disappears when we cross in swampy areas. From the Lake to the end of the descent, there are about 7-8 km trail. When the thin blue line of the river in the valley Ugam becomes visible, one look for a path that rises on the left side (in the direction of descent). It takes around a big scree, then rises over the ridge and crosses the Tegermanbastau, heading down the river Chimbastau (Uchbastau on the map) to the bridge over the river the Ugam at the Chimbastau mouth. The direction of Makbala-say is not recommended because the wading passage of Ugam is especially dangerous! Southwest of the source of the river Tepar-say, the crest of the Ugam form a vast plateau with a culminating Peak at 3385 m, in which the rivers Haramzade (Haramdzada-say on the map), Nauvali-say (tributaries of the river Pskem) and the Hazarteke-say, left tributary of the river Ugam, take their sources. The trail to this plateau in the rise from Pskem valley or Ugam can be classified as 1B. The area includes rides on detrital slopes towards the top 3385 m, when passing by the Nauvali-say River. The climb to the ridge can be achieved from the valley of the River Haramzadesay, but also from Nauvalis-say, knowing that the latter route is almost twice as long in time. South-west of peak 3385 m on the range of Ugam, the elevation and the altitude of the crest decreases significantly (it rarely reaches the height of 2600 m, on average 200-250 m lower). The plateau of Peak 3385 we have mentioned above is of easy access at the beginning of the valley of the River Nauvali-say. The trail is very well marked along the river. Later the trail leaves the banks of the river to climb to the top of the crest of the Ugam, toward the Jahan pass (2368 m, 1A, Yahak on the map). For this pass, you can descend to the right (in the direction of descent), through the valley of a tributary of the Ugam River, until the promxitiy of mouth of the river Hazarteke or take to the left (direction of travel) along the ridge south direction through 4 km to reach the Mynchukurbel Pass (elevation 2300 m, 1A). This pass can also be recahed from the mouth of the Nauvali-say. In the Lower Nauvali-say (mouth), the river cuts through the surface of the old bed of Pskem and formed a kind of canyon through the conglomerates. Upper the beginning of the mouth,

the valley continues on the rise with relatively gentle slopes, covered by forest (poplar, apple, walnut, Mirabelle) and thick grass. Going up to 6-7 km from the mouth of Nauvali-say, there is the whole beginning of an other trail that leads to a right tributary of Nauvali-say and climbs through 5 km the mountain slopes to the pass of Mynchukurbel. The descent from the Mynchukurbel pass leads into the wide valley of the same name (Mynchukursay River on the map) by scree slopes and along the river that must be forded several times. And it is only after reaching an abandoned tunnel that the trail appears. From there it is a 2 hour walk to reach the Ugam river. At this point for the cross of Ugam river, there is a steel cable with a suspended cradle.

The Sandalash Range Cartography : maps 50 000th, k42-071-4; 100,000 th, k42-071, k42-072, k42-083; 200,000 th k4218, k42-24. The slopes of the Sandalash mountains are located on the right bank of watershed ChatkalKarakysmak. This ridge is born at the crest of the Talas Ala-Too, on a summit of elevation 4217 m (or 4202 on the map). This summit is the origin of the three sources of rivers Karabura (North Slope of Talas Ala-Too), Karakysmak (east) and Ayutor (Sandalash, west). The crest of Sandalash extends along an axis northeast and southwest of nearly 75-80 km parallel to the ridge of Pskem but on a lower extension. The Sandalash is located entirely in Kyrgyzstan territory. The ridge separates the Chatkal Basin of those of the Sandalash. The southeast slopes of the ridge are cut by the various rights tributaries of Chatkal, often perpendicular to the edge. These tributaries are relatively long in the north-eastern part but become shorter and of a lower throughput as one descends to the southwest. On the side of the river Sandalash, most tributaries are short, almost without water, even temporarily dry. The cliffs often fall out of the river Sandalash. Therefore, most of the Sandalash valley is difficult to access, especially its banks, almost impassable in practice. Also for this reason, there is little evidence of detailed exploration of the range of Sandalash and its passes, not to mention the mountain sports activities, without actually known work. From the heights of Mount 4217 m (4202 m on the map) to the pass of Ashuu-Tor (3388 or 3600), the extension of the mountain (a length of 15 km) is called Monts Tula-Baj-ulgen. On the southeastern side flows the right tributary, the Karakysmak and on the other side of the ridge is the original component of the Sandalash River, the Ayutor. The path to the Ashuu-Tor pass (3600 m, 1A) starts near the mouth of Chakmak-suu (eponymous village), along the road that runs along the right bank of Chatkal and spans nearly 15 km rise. From the crest of Sandalash to the Ayutor river, there are about 5-6 km downhill, about 4 km more to reach, downstream, the confluence of the Ayutor, the Chakmak and Tayalmysh, the three Rivers then forming the Sandalash. The descent is steep, across a distance of 10 km, one loses nearly 1000 meters. At the confluence of Chakmak, the trail crosses the crest of the Talas Ala-Too. At 3-4 km from the crest of the Talas Ala-Too, the trail branches, to go right to the Korum-Tor pass, and to the left to go along the main channel of Chakmak. This last part is reaching the Chakmak glacier, source of its water, and then the trail turns to the right, to lead to the Muzbel pass (3916 m). The Muzbel pass Glacier is located on the slopes at the birth of the crest of Pskem but we travel almost all the time in the high valleys of Sandalash, and the slopes of the mountain of Sandalash. Below is a tributary of Sandalash, the Tayalmysh, and including a more detailed description is not available here. However, the path goes in general through Tayalmysh river onto its glacial source on the slopes of Pskem. It leads to a pass located 30 km northeast (bird fly) from the Ashuu-Tor Pass.

Ala oo -T du

Ala-To o du Ta la

l Ta as

Col Muzbel

4358

Ala-Too du Talas

Chakmak Ps ke m

ak-Youjina Col Chakm

Col Korum-Tor

(sud)

Pic 4217

oletch Col Piaty-K

a-K Ish

ala nd Sa

y uld

Col Ishak-Oldyu

Col Irbis

Suulu-Tor

Lac Ishak-Oldyu

Col Zelenyi

Col Ak-Kapyngay

Kara -Tor

y pynga

Col Esho 3060 dy

a al nd Sa

sh dala San

Chakmak-suu

Sa n

Orto-Terek

dala

Ka sh ka -s

Takm aksal

Col Sandyk

Sa nd ala sh

417 2

Sa nd

a Ak-K

Col Dopyday 3170

Kum

belTa s h

Kychy-Sandyk

k re -Te ak Ay

Col Kumbel

alash Sand

u-Tor

al as h

Ashu Col d'

Takm aksal d

Col Orpova Vost. Col Orpova Zapad.

Kumbel-say

Bashky-Terek

Sa ry kke l

ka at Ch

dalash Djeti-San

Korgon-say ou Chanash

at Ch

l ka

Orographic scheme of Sandalash Range

Monts

Col Tastar

Col Proxodnoy

TulaBajulg

Sanda lash

Co lC olc hin a

ov nik

Co lV od

ke Ming-Te

Psk em

Chakmak

h ys alm

Berk

on Ch

Col Yrta

Col

Co lP axta kov

Col Visokyi

Col Takmaksaldy

Col Granitn

Col Krasnaya 4250 420 2 Col Novossibirsk

y Ta

toy os etr hm as lT Co

Col B.Boguotkova

Col Taya lmys h

em Psk

Ay u

tor

is pu sh rsa My

ak sm Ky raKa

One of the main trails leading through the crest of Sandalash begins at the village of Chanash, at the edge of Chatkal where several tributaries flow into the valley. One can reach the Kumbel pass (3250 m). At left hand, this part of the main ridge of Sandalash also bears the name of Djeti-Sandalash. The slope of Sandalash River basin is short (about 6-7 kilometers) and quite steep with a loss of altitude of 1200 m. The descending trail follows the course of the river (Kumbel-Tash). It joins the path that climbs the left bank of Sandalash from about 12-14 km (south-west) and then passing the ford of Kumbel-Tash river. At this point, the left bank Sandalash trail climbs on a good slope to bypass the deep gorge of the river. Moreover, if one goes up in Sandalash left side, there are also another path from the left that crosses the Pskem mountain range, going up the Takmaksaldy River Valley to the Takmaksaldy pass 3627 m. Some passes are used by cattle farmers, they are at the southwest end of the ridge of Sandalash. But here the space is widely used by the extensive grazing of livestock, and hiking objectives have less interest. Let us briefly expose some characteristics of the watershed of the river Sandalash. Its watershed is about 1200 square kilometers, a length of 89 km. In many places, the course of the river suddenly changes direction. The Sandalash receives water from many tributaries: the main of them are born on the slopes of the range of Pskem: Kainsu, Kourgan-Tioube, Chukursu, Talyksay, Achiktash, Karayangryk, Takmaksaldy, Chong-Ishakuldy and Tayalmysh. The Sandalash Alpine area is highly dried with some traces of glaciation, mainly in the axial portions of the ridge. Here we find clearly visible signs of ancient glacial valleys forming hollow erosion of flow, sometimes there are even more recent traces of glaciation. The mountainous circuses drained a significant rise of moraine material. In winter, on high-altitude, there is often very heavy accumulations of snow, which explains the persistence of existing glaciers as the main feeding source of water, despite drought on climate. In this region the debris and detrital rocks were widespread and the vigorous flow of water has contributed to the strong fragmentation of the relief. In many places of Sandalash valleys and its tributaries, there are impassable canyons and very steep rocky slopes. It is not uncommon to encounter 1200 m altitude gain between the top and the bottom of the course of rivers. In the Sandalash basin, there are a few ancient remains of leveling surfaces. These sites are located on the middle reaches of the river Chong-Sandyk, Kichik-Sandyk, Djety-Sandyk, the Sandyk Mountains or Etty-Sandal. The surface of the Etty-Sandal has left tributaries of Sandalash strongly dried up. These tributaries flow into deep gorges, sometimes through inaccessible canyons, while their watersheds are rather flat. Downstream of the river, at an altitude of 1500-2600 m, the relief is bland, and the watershed slope is almost insignificant. Amid the Sandalash Valley, most of its tributaries are easily accessible. However, at the vicinity of the village of Kourgan-Tioube, to the right of Sandalash, the Kainsu river flows through a narrow valley with slopes of intense debris. The deep gorge was formed through a surface of rocks resistant to erosion. Most of the gorges of the regions are tributaries of Sandalash.

The crest of Kokcu Cartography: maps 100,000 th, k42-081, k42-082; 200 000 th k42-23. On the upper reaches of the Pskem river, the crest of Kokcu is parallel to that of Pskem and dominate the sources of the Ihnahch river, it covers nearly 60 kilometers away. Between the two ridges run the Kokcu waters flowing into the Chatkal at the village of Burchmulla. The slopes of the two sides of the river are extremely steep and rocky, often almost vertical. The Kokcu river therefore flows through deep gorges and over half of its course in the valley is impassable. Only passages are possible in October for tourists from Tashkent, when there is very little water in the river, and in some places, have use of little air mattresses. The valley is blocked in some places by towering rocky rubble, having formed four lakes. The most recent obstruction occurred in the spring of 1969 following a gigantic landslide. At a distance of 30 km from the mouth of Kokcu is the village of Ajryk. From the mouth of the valley, the structure of the Kokcu resembles a rosary along the extension of the thousands of rock stations, intersecting and sawing the river gorge. This part of the river is seldom visited by excursionists. The highest peaks of the crest of the Koksu are the Peak Ak-Tash (3482 m) and the Peak Kazanbulak (3369 m). The Ajryk village lies at the confluence of a right tributary of Kokcu river (altitude 1500 m). In the shade of birch, poplar and talov is a few small houses and a significant operating honey farm surrounded by a multitude of hives. At 7-8 km downstream of Kokcu from the village of Ajryk is the mouth of the river Mynzhilki a right tributary of Kokcu. Halfway, you can see the remains of the lake, which was formed in 1969 by a huge landslide and finally emptied into the river, and the water finally won the rest of the natural dam. Below the river Mynzhilki, the trail passes on the left bank of Kokcu and rises well above the valley floor and then suddenly goes down to groves of trees, to reach the river. Here campers usually settle in for the night. The Kokcu, on both sides, under pressure from the cliffs from a height 20-25 m, here forms a canyon no wider than 5 m. But because of the great depth of the water the river flows quietly. It is a beautiful place called the "slot". Immediately after the canyon of the "slot", the valley widens and one can wade across the river to the descent of the slope of Kokcu. In descending the Kokcu after the "slot", the trail passes through small and large rights tributaries of Kokcu: The Zambat, the Korumtor, the Taktor, the Zahtan, etc.. Then the trail climbs onto the right bank foothills then returns down to the river, where there are few birch groves mixed with poplars and in some places, hawthorn and plum groves. The left tributaries of Kokcu are low in water and most of them have dried up when we go upstream. The largest of the left tributaries is the Sebak river. Soon you reach the junction with the trail coming from the mouth of the river Chavata-say. It is just 5-6 km from the village of Burchmully. The trail crosses the sunburned slopes quite rather distant from water, then after through the dry riverbed of the Ustara-say and then joins the road. The Kokcu joins here, one of his few left tributaries, the Kulas-say. From Burchmully, it is possible to return to Tashkent by bus.

Ko kc u

Col Kokcu-Bashi

m ke Ps

u kc Ko

Pic Piezak 3786m

Pic Aktash 3482 m

Kok cu

Col d'Arzanova 3460m

m ke Ps

Pic Kazanbulak 3369 m

yn M

OuzbÃ©kistan

i ilk zh cu ok

Zambat

Taktor

Korumtor

y k-sa Kely mlc ha

Savata-say

Ch atk al

al atk Ch

Chopkamysh

Kirghizstan

Arob-Say

Khargush

al Chatk Arob-Olmayurt

Col Chel-Tash

Besh-Aral

y Sa ays Na

Dzhosho-sa y

ek-s

ay -s

ay -S

Col Kungyrbuka 2498m

atk Ch

Naysatuguay

k na

Col Babayulgen 2575m

sh gu ar Kh

Paly

Co 24 l K 0 0 om m ar

Col Dodekatym 1839 m ay tau-s

Col Yanterek 2400m

Col Chopkamysh a yd Ma

Kokcu

Burchmulla

K 2000m Col d'Alyam My n-T uku m b Kaly

Kokcu

k ba Se

Zahtan

Ajryk

Kulocyi

Chatkal

Massif du Kokcu

Ak-Tash

Hikers usually go upstream of Kokcu when they want to cross the crest of Pskem and reach the Arzanova Pass on north (Peak Piezak 3786 m) or when they realize in the region a "Alyamskomu roundtrip", crossing the Alyam Pass (Kokcu main crest, 2000m). The other passes on the crest of Kokcu are generally more easily accessible from the Chatkal Valley (Kyrgyzstan). What are the paths from the crest of Kokcu, which allow descent to the Chatkal river? First of all, it must be said that on southwest of Koksu-Bashi-P Pass to Alyam Pass, hikers traverse is difficult. There have been a few attempts in the Chatkal to do so, but most of them were unsuccessful. The transition from a large part of the ridge of Kokcu is therefore practically inaccessible. In the village of Ak-Tash (Kyrgyzstan), at the edge of Chatkal, a road bridge crosses the river to get to the right bank of the Chatkal. This precarious bridge construction may sometimes be temporarily broken. A good way also appears much further down the Chatkal in the sector of Nayzatuguay village. Other trails leading to the pass of Alyam lies upstream on the Chatkal. In the valley of Kokcu, at the height of the village of Ajryk a bridge crosses the river. From here begins the path to the pass of Alyam. The trail rises gradually, passes groves of trees and bushes, crosses several streams and snow fields in spring and early summer, and then leads to the pass. The journey time is about 2 hours from Kokcu to Alyam Pass (2000 m, 1A). Since the slope overlooking the Chatkal, there are two ways to reach the pass of Aylam. The first, from the village of Nayzatuguay a short track goes down right, then passes under the summit 2200m (2155 m on the map) and leads to the Dzhosho-say river valley about 2 km above the village and then climbs towards the pass. The second path is longer (about 20 km), more complicated, but more interesting. Going up during the Chatkal Valley, left to the pass of Aylam, is the first valley encountered, that of Kalybek-say River. After 5 km on the trail along the river you cross a cascade of 10 meters with the rope. From there, you have another hour to reach the Myntukum river on the right bank of Chatkal and 2 hours walk from Nayzatugay. Beyond the path (towards Northwest) follows the Myntukum then reach the pass of Aylam. The surroundings are picturesque. In the shade of trees (birch, Tal, poplar, walnut, cherry plum, apple, hawthorn) is the house where lived the hydrologists. In Chatkal we sin lot of fish. The river has a few baskets and fishing net. If you go down on the course of Chatkal, after 4 km, there is a new crossing over the river, a metal cable with a cradle, which provides access to the opposite bank, on the village of Arob. And on the right bank there is the hives of Olmayurt. Before you approach it, the trail crosses a small tributary of Chatkal, the Maydanak river. On the heights of the mountain is the Yanterek Pass (2400 m, 1B). The climb to the pass is made without trail route, avoids some dense thickets of thorny bushes. The height difference is quite large and the final rocky slopes are somewhat steep, just before the pass. The descent on the opposite side is of a similar height difference, without path also leads to the shores of Koksu, then at a place called the "slot". At 2 km downstream of the Olmayurt apiary, lies the village of Chopkamysh. From there, a path rise to the Kokcu crest, it leads to the Komarova pass (2400 m, 1B). The rise of the trail is quite similar to that of Yanterek pass. Only the descent to the Kokcu is easier, because in this place there are trails, especially via the Sebak River Valley. 2 km to the west of the Komarova pass is the Chopkamysh pass which is reached by following the same track. 4 km downstream from the village of Chopkamysh begins a path from the village of Khargush.

There is also an apiary at this location. The Khargush-say river is one of the largest tributaries of the Chatkal river in the area. The path follows the course of the river Khargush-say, then disappears at the confluence of Khargush-say upstream. From there, you go up along the river, left, on the stony edges, sometimes very close to the water, sometimes atking ford on the river to get back on the rocks later. In some places we encounter small waterfalls, until a new river confluence (about 5 km from the mouth of Khargush-say). To locate it, there is a visible spot consisting of a huge shiny stone that also divides the streams, and over which we must move. And just above the trail appears again. At the top of the rock the trail climbs through junipers pastures and the rise continues on 4-5 km to reach the Babayulgen pass (2575 m). Right, northwesterly direction, from the Babayulgen pass, a footpath goes along the main ridge towards the Sebak River, the Yanterek pass and further, to Koksu river. This trail is not noticeable in many places because it is rarely used. From the pass, barely visible, the Canyon Kulocyi is located below. Another path leads to the left to the Kungyrbuka pass (2498 m). You can cross theses two passes in any order and direction, both are listed 1B. After crossing the last Kungyrbuka pass (2498 m), the trail joins the right bank of the river Palytausay. On the way, we meet the following shrubs, deciduous trees, lots of roses and blackberries. In the birch pointing to the right, the path goes through a small pass (Dodekatym 1839 m) and leads to the gorges of Kulocyi, left you reach the Chatkal. In the valley of the Palytau river below the eponymous village, there is a prehistoric cave, where archaeologists have conducted excavations for a few years. Not far away, from a narrow dark rocky slot, a river falls from a height of almost fourty meters. After a one-hour ride down we reach the road, and a bridge over the Chatkal. From there, the Lake Charvak is clearly visible.

Mountain ranges of Sargardon and Kumbel Cartography: maps 100 000th, k42-093, k42-094; 200 000th k42-23 border between Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan Between the passes of Arashan and Tura-say on the crest of Chatkal, almost at right angles, it deploys a powerful mountain range, the Sargardon ridge. At 10 to 12 km of the latter, it borns a small range, the Kumbel crest, again at right angles. The crest of Sargardon is toward the northwest, while that of Kumbel goes to the Northeast. Ridges and spurs share their different watersheds of many tributaries of Chatkal. The two largest of them are Akbulak and Terc. The distance between theirs sources and the mouth on the Chatkal, is nearly 60 km away. This mountainous region has a relatively large number of watersheds that contribute significantly to the Chatkal water supply. The water in most rivers comes from melting of vast fields of eternal snow located in their headwaters. The arc of the crest of Sargardon comes along the right edge of the river Akbulak. The ridge has a slightly dislocated character: summits, flat, wide and interspersed with lots of debris between resistant granite towers. The highest point of the ridge is located at 3762 meters, the average height is about 3000 m. To access the different passes of the Sargardon range, it is best to start with the Akbulak Valley. Here it is possible to drive and climb from the village Burchmully. This relatively deserted road runs along the right bank of the Chatkal and then along the right bank of the Akbulak. About 10 km from its mouth, it joined its main right tributary, the Sargardon river. Here the road splits: on one hand we continue to go up the Akbulak, and on the other you take the uphill road of Sargardon 7 km further. At a turn on the road, up a tunnel begins the Upper Sargardon. From the tunnel on the left you can go to the pass of Chavrez (2112 m). The seat of the pass is wide and the road climb to the pass takes less than two hours, because it is not a strong vertical drop (1600 m-2100 m). From Pass Chavrez you can descend along the Chavrez-say River to its mouth in the Chatkal and then follow the left bank of Chatkal to reach the bridge over the river. The track that goes up the headwaters of the river Sargardon is a good track. It was the right bank some distance from the bed of the river, crossing several small tributaries and then down to the water, crossed by a bridge, the Zilay creek and approach houses inhabited by shepherds and foresters. Here, the valley is quite wide: the Sargardon receives both sides some small tributaries. Trails radiate in all directions, furrowing the small houses in the valley. Towards the south, the trail leads to the pass Abdak (2100 m) and the pass of Almashah (2215 m) and bypasses the Akbulak valley over two of its rights tributaries. Both passes are respectively 5 km and 12 km from the bed of Sargardon.

Col Kychy-Kumbel

Nayzatugay

Col Kata-Kumbel Col Dzhermat

Ko kka m

Col 1800

-s yza Na

Col 1937

Arob

Kirghizstan

Kyz yl-

Ak-Tere

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Kychy-K yzyl-Djar

Te r

Ka taKu mb el

Col 1910

ha eC

ra Bark

ièr Riv

l tka

Riv ièr

Kokc Rivière

Djar

Chopkamysh

Pic Boz Bokchy 3890 m

Arob-say

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ja -D ak m

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Terc

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Ka ra -s a y

Col

Orographic scheme of mountains of Sargardon and Kumbel

Mu z-Te

Col 3583 m Col Arashan

Rabat-say

Col Olympyiskyi

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Rivière Akbulak

l Chatka

Pic Kyzyl-Tash 3866m

Col Kara-Say

Te re kly -s ay

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Alm

-say

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Sa r

say Tuura-

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Col Kayndy ou Ozernyi

Rivière Terc

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Pic Teketash 3697m

Balstan

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Col Ce

Col Abdak R iv iè r

rya 3788 ktab

3762

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3705

Col TKT ET O 50-L Col

Ch ydy lyu -sa y

Col Nursan

Zil ay

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3747 Col Chavrez

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Ri vi

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Djeldy-s

Col Zablydchik 3500m

ière Riv

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3747,8

3688 Col Terc 3535m

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Chilbilyu-say

Sa rg ar do n

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Col Kumbel 3450m

Sh av re zSa

Col 3550m

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Col Zilay

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Col Arob

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To the north, the trail reaches the pass Zilay (2425 m). After 5-6 km, passing the middle reaches of the river Zilay (tributary of Sargardon), the trail leads to Nursan, a vast mountain pasture (jailoo), known among hikers as Arob Pass (2612 m). The passage of two passes is listed 1A. On jailoo (summer pastures), the left leads towards another pass at the Arob-say valley. In less than an hour, it goes through a landscape of small narrow and sharp valleys. Then the valley widens, merging several of these narrow valleys, it is there finally the descent to the Chatkal Valley. The river is 2.5 km downstream. On a flat terrace on the left bank of the Chatkal, there is a grove of poplars and some wild fruit. There is also some houses which is the village of Arob. At this place to cross the river Chatkal, residents have placed ropes and cables with a cradle for the passage. If this passage device is not present, going up from the shore of Arob-say to the northeast, after 5-6 km the trail leads to the turbulent river Kaindy. On its shores and islands of the river runs a long narrow birch grove on almost 5 km. It is possible to leave the woods on a trail southeast to join also well above the upper Sargardon. The "placer" rock are more important at the top of the sources of Sargardon. Its upper ridge is clearly separate from the highest point of triangular shape. The silhouette of the summit stands out clearly in the sky. On the left (downstream direction) from the top is the Sargardon pass (3235 m, 1B), right, the TKT pass ( TashkentTourists Club, 3500, 1B). To achieve the two passes of the mountainous circus it takes about an hour. In the southeast corner of the circus is the peak 3762 m, right next to the east lies the 50-letiya Oktyabrya Pass (3450 m, 1B). By joining it, you can switch into the parallel valley of the River Almashah-say (same side of Sargardon), a rather short river (12-14 km), but its gorges are virtually impassable. However from the mouth of the Almashah-say on Akbulak, a track starts, which we follow until it birfuque out of the bed of the river. Then continues to the right, along the river bed to a more narrow gorge, which can be reached easily. On the way, the rocky passages are of medium difficulty. Early in the season there is the presence of stones and snow bridges. The last part of the route to be overcome, runs throug the left and reaches up to the ridge, in the horseshoe formed above the upper course and sources of Almashah-say. The last three cols described above provides access on the opposite side of Sargardon, the sources of the Kaindy river. On the way down the slopes of this side are particularly steep (up to 60Â°), but without too much danger, it is even possible to practice a little â&#x20AC;&#x153;slipping" on the less steep parts. However, on this side of Kaindy river, some pretty slippery snow-covered roads cling even late in the season, but you can always find a place to get around them. In the middle of a huge circus, you reach a lake surrounded by snow banks, fed by meltwater, upstream the are five small glaciers (the largest has an area of 0.8 km2). Here begins a series of rocky placers, between which the river flows. Here we have to go on the rocks on the right side of the circus: lowest fording becomes more difficult. Because after leaving the circus, the Kaindy becomes a raging river. It's a two-hour walk from the path of the crest of Sargardon. This trail down the Kayndy along the right bank of the river. There is no tree for 3-3.5 km password before joining a right tributary of Kayndy. The mouth of another back back the valley of the tributary, and one can reach the highest Terc River Valley. Next the altitude of the snowline in the season, the trail ends more or less near the pass. First of all the way through patches of wet snow, which soon becomes continuous with altitude snow. The enneigment parfoit can be so important that it sinks to his knees. Here and there in the morning or evening, you can admire the blue spots of the translucent ice. On the heights of the river to the south, under the pass is the Teketash peak (3697 m) and once past the pass, this summit is clearly visible to the east about 2 km away. The circus of the Terc pass, or

"Fresh Air" pass (3508 m, 1B) is a fairly gentle climb. The pass is covered with light gravel, sometimes with stunted grass. The climb and the descent into the Terc valley is approximately of equal difficulty. From The mouth on Kayndy to the pass the distance is about 8-10 km. Both outgoing river from the Teketash heights begin in circuses of firn and appear at the end of a small moraine, the result of demolition and debris from rock avalanches. Almost immediately on the descent of the river, the trail turns right, and at an altitude of about 3000 m, the track appears under the snow here and there. It is hardly noticeable. The valley tacks and the road is mainly on the left bank of the river and at 1 km from Terc it joins the right bank. The path on the course of Kaindy continues downhill, passing through several wetlands. The trail sometimes gets lost between shrubs and it is usually nearby groves of wood. Halfway the course, the Kayndy river joins the left tributary Nayzinka on which there is a trail leading to the pass of Arob (2612 m). From this location, you can cross the Kayndy and climb above its left bank, following the trail that winds to reach the pass of Dzhermat (1800 m or 1495 on the map), and head towards the Chatkal that can be crossed by a cable with cradle. On the right bank of Chatkal gorge lies the village of Nayzatugay. From the confluence of the Kaindy with the NayzinkoĂŻ, another path leads to northeast, parallel to the Chatkal, which rises in the foothills and then passes through several valleys and rivers, reaching directly the upstream of Chatkal just below the mouth of the river Terc. Then, after the Kaindy valley, you can reach that of Dzhol-say. These two rivers, merging, form the main tributary of the river Nayza, then after the Chatkal. The rise of the Dzhol-say River is achieved onto the Kumbel pass (3448 m, 1B), leading to Terc Valley. Parallel to Dzhol-say runs the Kalhta-say and its valley. Both rivers at their mouths have deeply eroded the sediments, forming deep and steep gorges. The trail of general direction Northeast then rises again, and goes down after to the Katta-Kumbel River about 15 km after the Kalhta-say. Then turning left we join the village of Besharal located on the shore of Chatkal or by joining on the right, the Katta-Kumbel pass (2926m, 1A). And if we continue on the main trail to the Katta-Kumbel pass, 4-5 km it presents a branch. The path to the left leads to the village of Ak-Tash on the Chatkal with a bridge to cross it. The path to the right leads to the pass-Kichik Kumbel (2442 m) to spend in the Terc Valley, and the path joins the shore below. Now let us back to the valley of the Akbulak (Uzbek side of Sargardon, to go up to the upper sources of the river and the origins of Terc river on the other side (Kyrgyz). Upstream of the mouth of Sargardon, the dirt track runs through the left bank of the Akbulak a while and then comes back on the right bank. Later (8km) we joined the mouth of the left tributary the Koshman-say River. On this site, there is a road junction to the Serkely-say valley (or Terekly-say on the map). Approximately 3 km after the mouth of Koshman-say, near the mouth of the Arpapay River, is the cabins of an abandoned village, named Akbulak where starts another track in Arpapay valley. 1km after, the trail reaches a pedestrian bridge over the Akbulak to cross on the right bank. In the valley of the Akbulak, from the mouth of Koshman-say, one rises gradually to the mouth of Karasay (about 20 km) on a vertical drop of almost 1000 m. Sometimes we walk in flood plains, covered with forest. Sometimes you get high on the mountain slopes to bypass the cliffs. Dense vegetation (birch, Tal, shrub) covers the slopes and the bed of the river, which suggests its course only on breakthroughs. In some places, the river is crossed by temporary bridges for livestock. Halfway on the Kara-say Valley, the Akbulak forms beautiful meanders. Early in the season there is still snow fields in the side canyons and snow bridges permit us to cross to the left bank. Here, the trail climbs on a small spur to join downhill Kara-say after its mouth. The path to the altitude 2300 m joined a relatively stable place covered with sparse grass and totally devoid of trees. Only on a

few places, you can see some creeping junipers. In the same vicinity of the Akbulak, on 2 km valley, two tributaries flow and join, the Kara-say (right) and the Tura-say (left). At 5-6 km north of the region, following the valley of Kara-say, you come to the Kara-say pass (3226 m, 1A), then on the Kyrgyz side of Terc sources. Above the confluence of the Tura-say and Akbulak, the Tura-say valley runs almost at right angles to the south. At the bottom of the Turasay valley, an upper pass can reach the sources of Akbulak and its upper valley. The climb to the pass has a vertical drop of 800m. Immediately, the route follows the good right bank slope, crossing small wild streams of melting snow, while the left bank of the Tura-say is dark and steep. The saddle of the pass, clearly visible from a distance, closes by lateral buttresses when you approach and it is only 500 m before, that the pass itself becomes visible. The wide saddle of pass Turasay (3155 m, 1B, focus error on the map at the 100 00th, where the Turasay pass is actually the Davan Pass, see 200 000th) is often covered by deep powder snow (at least in the beginning season and autumn). The upper valley of the Arashan has already been described (Angren plateau, the Akhangaran Valley, see further). Therefore through the pass of the eponymous Arashan to explore the upper valley of Terc. The upper part of the river is almost always under snow. It is a beautiful panorama crowned by the snowy peaks that separates the basins of Terc and other tributaries of the river, except the Akbulak tributary of Chatkal. The crest of Kumbel crowned with eternal snow covers nearly 30 km. The average height is about 3300 m, but some peaks reaching 3800 m. From the Katta-Kumbel pass, the southern ridge of Kumbel headed northeast, and the craggy Kumbel crest gradually immersed in interspersed and powerful rock layer and then contours of the range become softer. First on the northwest slope, the terrain is cut with sharp signs of ancient glaciations. The southeastern slopes, forming the left side of Terc, present this gentle relief well grassed, and traces of ancient glaciation. There are few permanent snowfields in the shaded areas. Therefore, the left tributaries of the Terc are rather dry. The right tributaries, beginning on the north slope of Chatkal, come from these snowy slopes, so they abound water profusely in the Terc. The descent from the pass of Arashan is steep and often snowy. It must then make a slight shift to the right, to reach the terraces where snow becomes more diffuse. Here on the left you reach the mouth of a small tributary, which one achieves up to the Kara-say pass (3226 m). On the climb there is a path. The Terc trail then follows the right bank of Terc, and long after it crosses the path from the Terc pass, it passes on the left bank and almost all along the Terc to its mouth in the Chatkal. On the way there is possibility to turn left towards the passes of Kumbel, Katta-Kumbel and Kichik-Kumbel. The Terc flows into the river Chatkal, on a bed of hard granite. Near the mouth of Terc there is a road bridge across the river. From there you can reach by walking the village of Yangi-Bazar, from where you can take a bus or car out of the Chatkal Valley.

Angren Plateau, Ahangaran Cartography : Maps 100,000 th, k42-093, k42-094, k42-095, k42-105 and k42-106; 200 000 th k4229. The plateau of Angren, whose surface is about 1200 square kilometers, is a former abrading surface, the result of intensive development of erosion. The highest point of this plateau is at 3,400 m, and the lowest point is between 2100 to 2400 m altitude. The plateau is home to many sources of rivers: the Ahangaran (Angren), the Kasan-say, the Gava-say (Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border), the Chadaka, etc.. Most of the rivers that begin on its top land, have left here deep gorges, forming truly steep canyons and some of it, like the waters of Gavay, Boz-Teke, the Karaar-Say and Dickey are impassable. The upper plate of Gava-say area is divided into two unequal parts, each of which has a slope and elevation of different surface. There are different ways to get on the plateau of Angren, particularly in the north. The fastest and most convenient is to take the road pass of Chapchama (Kyrgyzstan). Here is the origin of rivers Kasan-say, Chapchama and Chal-Kodu. A few kilometers before arriving at the road pass of Chapchama, it engages in the path that goes up the Chal-Kodu Valley. It's a good upstream mountain track across 13 kilometers to reach the mountain pass of Chal-Kodu (3300 m). Another path to the plate through the hills runs above the Sumsar river valley (north side of Akhangaran basin). In Sumsar valley we cross many pittoresqes villages. Going up sufficiently upstream of the river, the road ends, giving way to the trail. About 10 km above the last village, the valley is oriented east-west latitudinally. Here the river is called Këk-Aly (or Këk-aAa). Almost all the way up to its source, we cross a large pebble plain partially flooded. The Këk-Ala River originates on the eastern slope of the ridge, where the peaks have an altitude of 3700 m. Side slopes are steep and rocky, dotted with boulders. The Këk-Ala pass(about 3500 m) opens up a vast panorama to the west. Where much of the Angren plateau is visible with all its snow that wind there, like the top of Babayob (3767), south-west superior stream of the Arashan River on the south side of the range of Chatkal, northwest mountains on the left bank of the river Terc (left tributary of Chatkal). From there, trails diverge, to go around the lake Këk-Ala, forming a network of paths that meet again. The lake is also accessible through the valley south of Gava river and that of Kok-sarek. Lake Këk-Ala was formed following a collapse in the source of an unnamed tributary of the KaraArcha-say River (east, Gava basin area). Lying in a northeasterly direction (1.5 km long with an average width of 500 m), it is placed into a deep depression surrounded by steep rocky cliffs, and the surface of the higher abrasion plate is located 400 meters above the water level. The whole is a very picturesque place. Dark blue, the lake is in perfect harmony with the surrounding field of flowers such as sizymi, lilac and red rocks, which all of them reflected in the water surface. The bright green spots of elongated junipers and a few other varieties of trees give a special touch. The lake is fed by several rivers, most starting from the top plate. The downstream continuation of the lake basin is in the form of steep and deep gullies on the left, which come to be confused with the same terrain abraded. The depth of Lake Këk-Ala is 130 m. At the base of the natural dam, a small creek bottom (level of about 2600 m), flows, and will throw into the river Kara-Arsha-say (eg Gava). A path continues along the left bank of the river, getting to the lake and also rise to reach the source of Gava.

ha l-K od u

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ka l

C ha t

Ah an ga ra n

Lac de Kek-Ala

Pic Babayob 3767 -say -Ala Kek Col de Kek-Ala

Beshkul

Col Kamchyk

Kokcaray

Orographic scheme of Angren Plateau

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Ka ca nsa y

Kirghizstan Ke k-S are k

Col de Cyyk-Bulak

Sumsar

Ga va Ga va

Ertash

Su m sa r

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Col de Kyzyl-Bel

Gava-say

Ahan garan

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Kuramin

Col de Kata-Kychart

Be sh -Ta sh

Ch atk al

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Col Terekly-say Pic Karakysh 3864m

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Col Akbulak Col Kelimchek Col TEIC Col Toypan Ke lim ch ek Turkestan Col

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Plateau d'Angren

Lacs d'Arashan

Col sans nom Pic Terekly

Col de Kyzyltor

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Akbulak

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Plateau d'Angren

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Col de Chapchama rc Te

The Gava river begins at the southeast edge of the Angren plateau, place that is also a source of several rivers. The line of the watershed (west) extends along the rounded ridges of relatively low altitude, hardly exceeding 3400 m. However, downstream the Gava-say cuts the surface of the plate forming there deep gorges up to 500 meters high or more. The remaining surface of the original plate is then only narrow ridges separating rock circuses. All that part of the river almost to its mouth in the plain in Gava is more or less the same look. At the source of Gava, the trail runs along the watershed of the Kara-Archa river passes through the pass of Ishtamberdy (3163 m) and then passes on the side of the river of the same name, Ishtamberdy. The ridge continues northwest achieves to the west the sources of Akhangaran River and by north those of the Chal-Koduu river. By continuing along the ridges to the east at about 6 km, also reaching the crest of Chatkal, we arrive at the mountain pass of Keng-Saz at 3172 m altitude. This area of Keng-Saz pass is an orographic and geological connection between the crest of Chatkal and that of a side subchain, the Kuramin, which develops at length to the south on the territory of Uzbekistan. The local name of this part of the mountain is the Kyzyltor. From the pass the trail, to the north of Keng-saz, leads to the sources of Bravash-say River (south of the Terc River Basin), and the south trail leads upstream of the Ak-Tash-say River (Akhangaran Basin). The Akhangaran rises its source in Boshravat pass or Dzhirdan, at an altitude of about 3500 m, a little further east are located the Keng-Saz Pass and the transition to the Terc River Valley. At the origins of the gorges of Akhangaran, the plate is cut with deep canyons, sometimes many hundreds of meters. The gorges have a trapezoidal section and a relatively flat bottom. The river flowing quietly almost on the top plate, soon rushed in rocky canyons on gushing streams, successive waterfalls terraces and cornices, bouncing between the rocks. The Akhangaran Gorge itself has a depth of approximately 400 m below the plateau, and 100 m wide, with elbows in some places. The valley really forms a canyon. And we can get there only by using specially designed routes. The route of these paths is so difficult that people have given their specific name (Davanami). The path, relatively far from the right bank of the Akhangaran is almost parallel to the gorges, and crosses a number of tributaries. The way to Boshravat pass and to the valley of the source of the Arashan is long (approx. 18 km) and very tiring. It has indeed a lot of ups and downs: here one has to traverse a series of deep valleys dependent on Akhangaran at an altitude of about 3000 m. It should be noted that on the portion of the crest of the range, between Chatkal passes Boshravat and Arashan, very few tourist groups went there, leaving no visible material trace. All along the way in the Arashan Valley, there are no trees, not even shrubs of creeping juniper. The path at the bottom of the gorges of Akhangaran is locally called Kalmakkรปl and leads to the gorge of the Arashan, about 10 km upstream from its mouth. The course of the Arashan is short enough on the plate and quickly locked down through waterfalls joining the Akhangaran river. But where the trail crosses the river downstream, it is difficult to believe that you are in the mountains, as the relief is regularly. Even if the height is 2400 meters, here and there,only some relatively low elevations on northwest are pointing, alsoit is like a plain, for the observer to the south part of the plate. However, when we approach the crest of Chatkal, gradually raising, the glacial landscape becomes more rocky and on the alpine slopes extend multitudes of flowers, almost up to the crest of the basin the Akhangaran. At the borders of the Arashan valley, near the crest of Chatkal, the bottom of the valley almost reached 500 m wide. All along the main stem of the valley, moraine material has slipped. At this height a large dam remains of an old moraine has been formed, creating a lake 700 m long with an

average width of about 170 meters. Its maximum depth is about 15 m, it occupies the bed of an ancient glacier out of this part of the Arashan valley relatively sunken, towards the northwest. The lake has finally filled this valley. The emptying of the lake is in the body of the dam on widths up to 6 m and a depth of 1 m. The lake is known by hydrogeologists as its name Lake Arashan. Around the lake there is also three other lakes to the west at short distance. The sources of Arashan, which gave the name to the Valley as well as lakes are frequently visited for its thermal interest. Becauxe between the cracks in the granite and moraine, on the left bank of the river, 400 meters under the lake, at an altitude of 2820 m, there is a source of sulfide hot water, with its characteristic smell of hydrogen sulfide. The source has always been regarded by local residents as "holy" and attracts many pilgrims, for whom even a small pool suits for bathing. For the source and bathing in summer, access is monitored by an old man who lives nearby. Above the lake shore, there are visible traces of ancient glaciers: the form ofs abrasion of lateral moraines rock, a medial moraine upstream merger of the two moraines. The distance between the basin area of the Arashan and the lake is about 5 km away. At the top the river has a fork into two valleys leading both to the passes on the ridge. The left valley leads to Arashan pass. The route follows the valley floor with access sandy slopes and scree, then a big scree and with snow and a final steep snow slope. The crest sometimes has a snow cornice, which we must pierce his weak point. This is the route to the Arashan pass (3470 m, 1b). The descent of the Arashan pass leads to the Terc River Valley. On the right side of the circus of the sources of Arashan is the Turasay pass (3155 m). It takes over an hour to reach it from the lakes Arashan, sometimes when there is a heavy snow. The wide saddle of Turasay pass (3155 m, I, b) can be covered with a deep, light snow early in the season. From the pass it opens a wide panorama towards the North-West: visible peaks are the Great Chimgan, the flat Mount Polathan, all in limestone and the southern slope of the mountain of Sargardon. Along the mountain, the slopes of the Chatkal range are heavily eroded and give a lot of loose material. On the northwest slope of the ridge is the sources of Akbulak River, a left tributary of the Chatkal. Trekking routes of Arashan and Turasay passes, over the crest of the range of Chatkal, offers the opportunity to access the mountainous parts of the northwest, additional branches of the chains of Sargardon and Kumbel. This part of the Chatkal ridge justly named the crest of Arashan and further to the southwest, where the ridge separates the basins of the Ahangaran and Akbulak, mountains are called Akcham. Following the watershed of the Ahangaran, the mountainside trail (2700m) in south-west led the Arashan River in the central part of the Tash-say river and a further, one reaches the river valley Kelimchek. Throughout, the successive gorges feature a wilderness trail: cascades and waterfalls outgoing from narrow slit. We reached the headwaters of the river Kelimchek to reach another path (leading to Kyzyl-cha River valley to the south). The rise along the path leading to Kelimchek takes 5-6 km, and it reaches a huge circus. The foothills are divided into three parts, they are located on the heights of the Trogu Communication Central (year 1977). The various passes have altitudes of about 3500 m and reach the upper basin of the river Tash-kesken opposite side of the ridge. Top of the left source of Kelimchek river thus lies three passes, the Akbulak, a nameless pass and TEIC pass (Tashkent Electro-Technical Institute of Communication). Over the lakes on Kelimchek River is on the crest of Chatkal, a culminating peak at 3872 m. So it is in this area taht lies the three passes, in the south TEIC pass (3800 m), and then the unnamed pass (3750 m), and a little farther northward Akbulak pass (3570 m). They are of the same difficulty 1B. Their access takes long boulders, gravel pits or scree slopes. When we approached the edge of the cliffs, passages include snowfields. Rocky ridges are narrow, formed in solid rock in a succession of

gendarmes, stone towers and turrets. Since the descent of the Akbulak pass (the North), we approache on the north slope below, a moraine lake that gives source to Akbulak river. For a safer descent, it is worth taking the right approach and a slope covered with snow which gives lower directly on the lakes. Here comes the trail, which passes over a side ridge where we reach the descent of one or the other two valleys Akbulak the right, left the Tura-say. The other two passes provide access to the upper Tashkesken River (watershed of Akbulak). If you continue down the Ahangaran parallel to the valley, the trail crosses the valleys of Kelimchek, the valley of the River Djakarcha, where there is a large number of blocks. There is also the Lauchenkiay River (Lochakkiay on the map): its mouth is remarkably wild, constituted by some rocks of red porphyry in outcrops along the vertical cracks. In addition, there are still five short valleys towards the village of Beshkul after the passage of a small crest to switch in the valley of the Ahangaran river itself. Here, the trail is very easy: from a plateau 600 meters above the river, we soon join the road of Kamchik pass (crest of Kuramin). There is a building "Pioner Lagerey" (pioneer camp), a health Etablissement on the banks of the River Ahangaran. Soon the trail joins the road. From there you can go by bus in the cities of the Ferghana Valley or Angren, in Uzbekistan.

Bibliography As we have already mentioned, the books on Western Tien-Shan are few, not to mention that many of them do not cover the whole area, but usually only one range. Thus, in the book of Lj. Promptova "In the mountains of Tien-Shan" (1948 В горах Тянь-Шаня), the author describes a journey through the valleys of the Talas Ala-Too through the Karabura pass and the exploration of Lake Sary-Chelek by the passage of Chatkal from the village of Burchmulla. Some information may be gleaned from a geographic description of the "Soviet Union" in 22 volumes. In book "Kazakhstan" (1970) it describes, for example, the basins of rivers Arys and Keles (pp. 315-322), in book "Kyrgyzstan" the description covers the Talas Valley (pp. 152-159 ) and the foothills of Chatkal (p. 235-237), in book "Uzbekistan", it deals with Bostandyka region (pp. 122-127) and the Ahangaran Valley (pp. 142-147). For more information on specific areas of the western mountains of Tien-Shan, we find information (in Russian) in the following scientific reports and articles: - Nature and economic situation of the Bostandyka mountain region. Almaty, 1956. (Природа и хозяйственные условия горной части Бостандыка. Алма-Ата, 1956) - D. N. Kachkarov. Main results of the expedition of the Museum of Central Asia in the Lake SaryChelek. Tashkent, 1927. (Кашкаров Д. Н. Результаты экспедиции Главного Средне-Азиатского музея в район озера Сары-Чилек. Ташкент, 1927) - D.N. Kachkarov and A. Korovin. Visit the Talas Ala-Too, Publication if the Principal College of Asian Museum in the summer of 1923. (Кашкаров Д. и Коровин А. Экскурсия в Таласский Алатау, снаряженная Главным Средне-Азиатским музеем летом 1923 г.) - N.L Korjhenevskiy. Report on glaciers and rivers of Pskem, Talas and Susamyr-Too. Tashkent, 1929. (Корженевский Н. Л. Отчет о поездке на ледники рек Пскема, Таласа и Сусамыра. Ташкент, 1929) - N. A. Severtsov. Travel in the Turkestan region, 1947 (Северцов Н. А. Путешествия по Туркестанскому краю. М., 1947.) - Small articles and notes on the Tien-Shan Western dispersed in "new Turkestan and the Russian Geographical Society" (Известиях Туркестанского отдела Русского географического общества), in the "new" academies of Sciences of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and the State University of Central Asia in Tashkent and other periodical publications ("Известиях" Академий наук Казахстана, Киргизии, Узбекистана, в Трудах Среднеазиатского). Reference books on nature reserves contain detailed information on the nature, flora and fauna, located in Western TienShan.