Notes from the Brew Room Ann King

Sea Buckthorn Whip Ann King

Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is found mainly on the east coast of the UK and particularly in East Lothian. The plant is a nitrogen fixer and can benefit coastal habitats, providing stability and structure to sand dunes. Its berry has become well known as a super-tonic, packed full of vitamins and antioxidants, and it is generally employed during the winter months to help ward of colds and viral infections.

No walk to North Berwick is complete without a little diversion to collect some berries for the store. In late September and October, the fruit can be gathered directly from the bush without acquiring orange fingers and skin pricks from the exploding berries, but otherwise I find that cutting the branch and storing in the freezer works best. Sea Buckthorn can then be used when needed for simple infusions and juicing, or it can be dried and powdered for oil infusions and bath soaks.

Sea Buckthorn extracts provide intense nutrition for the skin— particularly now, when the drop in temperature outdoors, coupled with drying environments indoors can have a negative effect on moisture levels in the skin. The oils can be most beneficial in topical skin preparations. There are two different types of Sea Buckthorn oil; one is extracted from the fruit and the other from the seed. They both contain essential fatty acids, vitamin E, antioxidants, trace elements and phytosterols, which may promote healthy circulation, reduce inflammation and act as a protective barrier. The oil is reputed to aid cellular regeneration and boost elasticity, so it is the lead plant in this autumn skincare recipe.

The additional ingredients complement the protective and regenerative actions of the Sea Buckthorn. Sweet Almond oil (Prunus amygdalus var. dulcis) is beneficial in skin preparations as it facilitates the easy absorption of the herbal remedies. It is also mild, therefore rarely causes skin irritation, and full of fatty acids which help the skin to retain moisture. Beeswax (Cera alba) is a very versatile, renewable material, having been used from waterproofing Roman buildings to aiding Egyptian mummification. In this instance, the product is used as a thickener. Beeswax helps provide a thin layer, both to protect against external elements and to help the active ingredients in the ointments penetrate the skin. Unlike other barrier creams, it will not clog the pores. It is also an emulsifier and will, therefore, help with the overall condition of the skin. Calendula (C. officinalis) stimulates tissue repair and regeneration, and also collagen secretion which, in turn, may enhance the natural elasticity of skin cells. Frankincense (Boswellia sacra) resin has a solid reputation both as an elegant fixative in perfumes and as a promotor of cell regeneration in skin preparations. In addition, its sensuous earthy tones counter-balance the sharp tang of the Sea Buckthorn berry.

S e a B u c k t h o r n W h i p You will need 2 heat-proof bowls— one small and one medium; a small saucepan; a metal spoon; a stick blender; sterilised glass jars, and labels.

I n g r e d i e n t s 5ml Sea Buckthorn oil 15ml Almond oil 10g cocoa butter 10g beeswax (grated) 5g emulsifying wax 45ml dried Calendula flower infusion or floral water 10 drops Frankincense essential oil

M e t h o d Add the Almond oil, cocoa butter and beeswax to the larger bowl and gently heat in a saucepan of water until dissolved and warm to touch. Remove from the heat and stir in the Sea Buckthorn and Frankincense oils. If possible, gently heat the Calendula infusion and emulsifying wax at the same time so that the two liquids are similar temperatures for the next step.

Slowly drizzle the water-based Calendula mix into the Sea Buckthorn oil-based mix, stirring continuously. Then whip with the stick blender until the cream thickens and becomes opaque. Place into the sterilised glass jars, label and refrigerate. The cream will thicken as it cools and will keep for a couple of months in the fridge.