Jetstar August 2018 Magazine

jetstar MAGAZINE

AUGUST 2018

LIFE ON THE ROAD Camping and tramping around New Zealand

WILD WANDERS

Keep a date with the devil on Tassie’s coast

PERTH-ECTION

The WA capital shows no signs of slowing

WELLINGTON I OSAKA I SYDNEY I RUTHERGLEN COVER STORY

ROCK STAR AUGUST 2018

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MAGAZINE

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journey to Rarotonga and Aitutaki in the Cook Islands is the perfect island escape. Rest and relaxation, romance, family fun, activity and adventure. You can have it all in this tropical paradise.

Everywhere the scenery is spectacular.

From turquoise blue lagoons fringed by coral reefs and stunning white-sand beaches to craggy volcanic peaks and dense jungles, it’s picture perfect and awe-inspiring.

There is a wide variety of accommodation with a choice for all budgets; from self-contained family villas to luxurious five star couples-only retreats, backpacker hostels and full-service resorts.

People often ask which side of Rarotonga they should stay on. There are a variety of hotels, resorts and holiday homes all over the island, but most are located between Muri Beach and the western side of Rarotonga. Muri Beach has motus (small islands) just off the beach that can be swum or paddled to. Most resorts provide kayaks and snorkelling gear free of charge too.

There is also a wide variety of restaurants all within walking distance.

As you head around the island towards the western side, there is accommodation of all types and this is also where you will find the late afternoon sun and amazing sunsets.

Rarotonga Just 32 km in circumference, you can drive around the island in just 40 minutes. Rarotonga has the widest range of scenery, activities, accommodation, restaurants and cafés too. It has been said that Rarotonga is like one big resort – because people get out and about and don’t just stay in their hotel. There are beaches with no-one on them and you can stop and spend as long or as little time as you like there.

The multitude of cafés and restaurants around the island just have to be experienced. The food is so good with a huge variety on offer.

Many holidaymakers are content just to enjoy Rarotonga’s relaxed environment with its warm lagoon and lush tropical mountains. There’s nothing better than a day lying on the beach, snorkelling, swimming, snoozing or simply admiring the scenery from your hammock. But while Rarotonga is perfect for relaxing and re-charging, it also has plenty of activities and cultural experiences to entertain you for days.

For some soft adventure, take Pa’s Cross Country Trek, which traverses the island’s mountains including the iconic Needle.

Take a four-wheel drive adventure tour, hire quad bikes or take a buggy tour, learn to paddleboard or scuba dive, go night diving,

kite surfing or big game fishing.

A lagoon cruise on a glass-bottomed boat is a must-do. You can snorkel alongside tropical fish before going ashore on a palmfringed motu for a barbecue lunch and entertainment involving coconuts, sarongs, music and a good old laugh at life in general.

Many resorts have their own island night with traditional music and dancing.

And there are spectacular shows at the award-winning Highland Paradise Cultural Centre, set in an ancient mountain village at Arorangi, or the stunning theatrical over-water performance at Te Vara Nui in Muri Beach. No matter where you are or what you want to do, the whole island is yours to enjoy.

Aitutaki Often called the honeymoon island, Aitutaki is pure paradise. Only a 40-minute flight north of Rarotonga, it’s spectacularly beautiful, with a triangular-shaped reef surrounding a bright turquoise lagoon containing 15 small motus.

The crystal-clear water is home to bright tropical fish and its pristine white-sand beaches are private and secluded. Exploring the lagoon is an absolute must. Book a lagoon cruise to visit the outer motus and have lunch on One Foot Island, which some consider to be the most beautiful beach in the whole of the South Pacific.

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August

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ON THE COVER: The Milky Way rises over Uluru PHOTOGRAPHY: Mitch Green

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contents AUGUST 2018

EXPERIENCE

117

16 I WHAT’S ON

56 I PHOTO ESSAY

18 I NEWS

Step foot inside Sydney’s Carriageworks Farmers Market

22 I #JETSTAR

65-83 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

How to score the perfect snap from your plane seat

26 I THE SHORTLIST Out-there accommodation options

28 I HOW TO Be mindful on your travels

31 I DRINK UP Iced tea with a twist

33 I FOOD TREND We can’t believe it’s butter

37

EXPLORE

Camp, tramp and eat your way around New Zealand

85 I ROCK ON New takes on an ancient landscape in Uluru-Kata Tjuta

93 I FLIP THE SCRIPT Swim with dolphins in their natural environment

100 I THE STYLED WEST Perth’s metamorphosis knows no bounds

109 I HISTORY, BOTTLED Drink up Rutherglen’s charms

37 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

117 I STREETS OF EATS

Sydney’s Bondi Beach has gone from beach bum to babe

What to eat and where in Japan’s culinary capital

40 I RECIPE

124 I A WILD WALK

Get yourself in a pickle

43 I SPA & WELLNESS Discover onsen alternatives in Japan’s capital

Trace Tassie’s bleakly beautiful north-east coastline

160 I BACKPAGE Tales from row 57

46 I BEAUTY Go kaleidoscopic crazy with colour

48 I HEALTH Try out a military martial art

50 I STYLE

100

ESSENTIALS 138 I Jetstar news 146 I Where we fly

Cool designs by clever Aussies and Kiwis

151 I Games and puzzles

52 I WORK AND PLAY

155 I Entertainment

The making of a national icon

guide

11

‘‘

Welcome I GROUP CEO

Sun, surf or ski JETSTAR MAGAZINE is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia +61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com.au Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Simon Tsang Editor Krysia Bonkowski Deputy Editor Chloe Cann Subeditors Leanne Tolra and Diana Baxter Designers Natalie LaChina and Sarah McMillan Picture Editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved.

Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015.

Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

our teams are working around the clock

T

here is a saying, ‘there’s no such thing as good or bad weather, only different kinds of good weather’.

At Jetstar we know this to be true, given the exciting travel experiences that both cold- and warm-weather destinations across our Asia-Pacific network offer to the millions of customers travelling with us every year.

Last month we saw many Australian families and friendship groups escaping the cold and flying to sunny spots on our international network such as Fiji, Hawaii, Phuket, Vietnam and Bali. And for those chasing fresh snow, destinations like New Zealand and the ski fields in New South Wales and Victoria are proving popular. Winter in Australia also means spotting the Southern Lights in Tasmania, and whale-watching season in

Sydney as humpbacks trace the coastline on their journey north to warmer waters.

As for me, last month I spent time in Tokyo visiting our friends at Jetstar Japan who were celebrating their sixth year of operations. Since launching in 2012, more than 25 million passengers have flown with Jetstar Japan across its network of 12 domestic destinations and four international hubs, including Manila, Hong Kong and Shanghai.

Tokyo is one of my favourite cities thanks to its amazing food, fascinating neighbourhoods and welcoming locals. If you haven’t visited, our low fares and direct flights from the Gold Coast and Cairns make getting there easy.

Another destination that we’ve made even easier to access is Uluru, thanks to our new services between Ayers Rock Airport and Brisbane. And right now Uluru is playing host to the astonishing Field of Light, an art installation of more than 50,000 light stems crowned with frosted-glass spheres, covering a surface area equivalent to more than four football pitches.

As always, in any kind of weather, our teams are working around the clock to make sure you have a great flight.

I hope you enjoy your travels.

Gareth Evans Jetstar Group CEO

13

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Ships ahoy!

Feel the wind in your sails as Hamilton Island Race Week takes to the waters of the Whitsundays. To find out what else is on for August, turn to page 16.

PHOTO HAMILTON ISLAND RACE WEEK

15

LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

Experience I WHAT’S ON

Grab a page-turner for National Book Week (17-24 August)

August

Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Perth Craft Beer Festival 17-19 August Perth, WA

Hamilton Island Race Week 18-25 August Hamilton Island, QLD

Dig out your best boat shoes for Australia’s largest offshore yachting regatta. Landlubbers needn’t dismiss this sailing event either: onshore attractions include long lunches hosted by revered Australian chefs, as well as cocktail parties, beach yoga, markets and fashion shows.

Perth descends into a hoppy frenzy this month. Quaff brews from more than 50 breweries and cider houses (some 350 beers will be on offer, including exclusive Festival Brews). perthbeerfest.com

hamiltonislandraceweek.com.au

Tasmanian Whisky Week 13-19 August Across Tasmania

Melbourne International Film Festival 2-19 August Melbourne, VIC

If your year has thus far been lacking in Nicolas Cage then fear not – a 12-hour ‘Cage-aThon’ is one of the cinematic delights offered at MIFF. Dozens of indie flicks also line the bill. miff.com.au

Sydney Science Festival

Visa Wellington on a plate

7-19 August Sydney, NSW

10-26 August Wellington, NZ

Get your geek on at this festival fit for budding astronauts and astronomers – or just general science enthusiasts. There’ll be talks from hundreds of experts, along with hands-on workshops, family-friendly events and panel discussions. sydneyscience.com.au

This food festival takes over the city’s laneways, restaurants and even car parks to bring punters more than 100 one-off culinary experiences, such as masterclasses, international chef collaborations, foodie exhibitions and pop-up markets. visawoap.com

It’s only right that a celebration of all things whisky should be held in Australia’s heartland of the amber nectar – Tassie. Events take place in distilleries, bars, barns, restaurants and hotels. From behindthe-scenes tours, to sipping on a dram of unreleased whisky, festival-goers are sure to leave in high spirits. taswhiskyweek.com

PHOTOGRAPHY SAMUEL SHELLEY, BEASTMAN / THE PIECE PROJECT, PIPPA SAMAYA, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

16

Experience I WHAT’S ON

Garma Festival 3-6 August Arnhem Land, NT

It’s a great month to…

Devised by the not-for-profit Yothu Yindi Foundation, Garma promotes knowledge sharing and cultural awareness for young people, both Indigenous and non-Indigenous, through dance, art, film and music. yyf.com.au

MAKE a beeline for dryseason Darwin.

The Darwin Festival (9-26 August) includes concerts, workshops and an abundance of food and drink. darwinfestival.org.au

Snow Tunes

31 August to 1 September Jindabyne, NSW The Southern Hemisphere’s biggest snow music festival, Snow Tunes brings acts from the UK, the US and more to the pistes of the Snowy Mountains for one cool shindig on the shores of Lake Jindabyne. snowtunes.com.au

Semi Permanent 9-11 August Auckland, NZ

This novel ‘festival of creativity’ brings design execs from some of the globe’s most disruptive brands (think Airbnb, Google, Netflix and Spotify, to name a few) to discuss ideas and insights in the City of Sails. semipermanent.com

CELEBRATE the sixth day of Ekka – AKA The Royal Queensland Show – with a public holiday for Brisbane’s largest cultural festival ekka.com.au

SALA Festival 1-31 August Across South Australia

Salons, wineries, piers and even cemeteries will play host to this state-wide visual arts festival, boasting almost 700 exhibitions. The 9000-plus participating creators include professional and aspiring artists. Expect tours, talks, forums, open studios and more at this 20-year-old event.

CHEER on your team during the Bledisloe Cup, with two of the threematch Rugby Union series occurring this month (19 and 26).

salafestival.com

George Town Festival 4 August to 2 September George Town, Malaysia

From homegrown artists to Iranian performers and Cambodian filmmakers, this festival heavy-hitter is surely one of Malaysia’s – if not Asia’s – most exciting. georgetownfestival.com

17

Experience I NEWS

JUST OPENED

INTERVIEW

Tropical vibes The team behind Bali’s ever-popular Motel Mexicola is extending its influence in Seminyak with the imminent opening of Tropicola Beach Club – a one-stop shop for cocktails, fresh seafood, grilled meats and lounging in the sun aplenty, all on a stretch of prime Balinese real estate. Over the next year the property will also unveil a 60-room hotel, a rooftop bar and a restaurant headed by chef Steve Skelly (the man responsible for the fine plates at Mexicola, Da Maria and Luigi’s Hot Pizza).

tropicola.info

Q&A with Amy Shark

18

SHOP FOR A CAUSE

Plastic fantastic

Retail brands are finding creative solutions for the plastics problem. Big names firmly on board include Nike and Adidas – the latter having just dropped the UltraBoost (below left) made using ocean plastics in collaboration with Parley. On the home front, Bombshell Bay Swimwear (below right) uses recycled nylon in its fun pieces, and ecoFin (middle) salvages plastic waste from Bali for durable Aussie-made surfboard fins. adidas.com.au/parley bombshellbayswimwear.com five-oceans.co/ecofin

Australian singer-songwriter and producer Amy Shark rocketed to the top of the charts in late 2016 with her single “Adore” – the first track she released after signing with Sony Music Australia. And only two short months later the song assumed second place in the Triple J Hottest 100, 2016.

The indie pop Queenslander has since dropped four more singles, as well as her debut album, Love Monster, last month. This month she departs on a supporting tour around Australia, New Zealand and North America. Here she talks dream gigs and why she feels on top of the world.

How do you feel about unleashing your debut album?

Very excited; I’ve waited a long time to do this so it’s going to be a very satisfying feeling.

It’s been a massive couple of years for you, has it taken you by surprise?

Every day is a surprise – being a musician is the best job in the world and I feel like I could take on anything right now.

What’s been your career highlight so far?

I have grown up watching the ARIAs and love the idea of being recognised by my country, so winning two ARIAs [2017 Breakthrough Artist and Best Pop Release] was a massive highlight. Another would be playing [for] Jimmy Fallon

[on The Tonight Show] and James Corden [on The Late Late Show].

You’re a proud Gold Coastian.

Do you think growing up there influenced your music?

I think living a relaxed lifestyle definitely helped. I wasn’t blinded by the lights of a major city, so I was able to create little memories that stuck with me and eventually ended up in songs.

What stop are you most excited about on your upcoming tour?

I’m just excited to play new songs. I also get to play in some beautiful venues on this tour – venues I never thought I’d ever play, let alone sell out.

If you could do a gig in any destination, where would it be?

Madison Square Garden, New York. amyshark.com

Amy wooing the masses at Splendour in the Grass last year. The annual music festival is held in the North Byron Parklands.

PHOTOGRAPHY RACV CAPE SCHANCK RESORT, TJ TAMBELLINI, AMY SHARK, STEPHEN BOOTH, IMAGE OF ELISA JANE CARMICHAEL AND ONESPACE GALLERY BY MICK RICHARDS

INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

Experience I NEWS

FOR CAFFEINE FIENDS

EXHIBITION

Yes we can Brewed for 18 hours using single origin coffees, these three nitro cold brews from Minor Figures contain no dairy and no added sugar. Choose your vegan-friendly iced coffee fix – Mocha, Latte or Black – and pick up one of the colourful cans from Woolworths in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. minorfigures.com

Spotlighting

Indigenous art

The longest running of its kind in Australia, the annual Telstra National Aboriginal & Torres Strait Islander Art Awards (NATSIAA) showcases the work of Indigenous artists from across the country at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory (MAGNT). This year’s winners will be announced at a ceremony and exhibition opening at MAGNT on 10 August. magnt.net.au/natsiaa

HOTEL WATCH

Hot property

Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula continues to heat up, with another esteemed opening. The RACV Cape Schanck Resort will unfasten its doors this month, treating guests to 180-degree panoramic ocean views; an indoor pool, sauna, steam room and gym; and three food and beverage outlets helmed by executive chef Josh Pelham (ex-Hellenic Hotel, Estelle Bistro/ESP). Also opening this August is the five-star Emporium Hotel South Bank in Brisbane and the Four Points

by Sheraton in Sydney’s Central Park.

19

Experience I NEWS

TREND ALERT

THREE OF A KIND

A sea of tea

To celebrate the fifth Sydney Tea Festival – taking place on Sunday 19 August, at Eveleigh’s Carriageworks – here’s a list of the best tea-themed experiences across the network.

Ippodo Tea Company

Kyoto, Japan More than three centuries old, the Ippodo Tea Company is Japan’s grande dame of topnotch Camellia sinensis, aka green tea. Its Kyoto store is a temple for tea, where visitors can sample sencha, matcha and more in the Kaboku tearoom while learning how to create the optimal brew under the guidance of the shop’s staff. It also offers tea classes and purveys more than 40 types of ryokucha (green tea). ippodo-tea.co.jp 20

1

TWG Tea Salons and Boutiques

2

Singapore A ritzy shrine to the humble tea leaf, this Singaporean institution has several salons and boutiques across the Lion City, offering everything from loose leaf Choco Mint Truffle Tea to French Earl Grey teabags specifically designed for use in iced infusions.

The luxury brand’s Tea on the Bay emporium boasts more than 800 tea harvests and blends on its books, said to be the largest list of its kind in the world. twgtea.com

Hu Xin Ting Teahouse

Shanghai, China An ornate edifice constructed entirely of wood, this twostorey teahouse has been graced by public figures such as Queen Elizabeth II and Bill Clinton. Said to be Shanghai’s oldest, the Mid-Lake Pavilion Teahouse’s menu suggests brews according to the season and serves sweet morsels (think preserved plums and small glutinous rice dumplings) alongside each cup.

3

The great Melbourne pub revival Some of the Victorian capital’s most storied watering holes are receiving a fresh lick of paint and much more besides. One of the city’s oldest pubs, The Duke, opened its new rooftop bar last month; 165 years after the venue served its first punters. In the heart of the CBD, the space promises stonking city views, a new menu (think lasagne croquettes with garlic breadcrumbs) and more outlandish drink options than your average boozer (the Café a la Mexicana features tequila, chilli liqueur, brown sugar, coffee beans and cream).

Meanwhile north-side institution The Rochey has turned up the heat, introducing Fitzroy to the joys of Keralan cuisine (and India meets Oz mashups, such as curry and chips). To tie in with the culinary renaissance, a new cocktail menu runs the gamut from spiked mango lassis to The Soul Hugger, featuring ginger, spice and all things nice (mulled cloudy cider, served hot). And the legend of St Kilda’s The Esplanade Hotel, or ‘The Espy’, will enter a new era when the grand old girl’s makeover is unveiled this November. Never-beforeseen corners of the 140-year-old building will be revealed over the sprawling main bar, Cantonese eatery Mya Tiger and refined cocktail lounge The Ghost of Alfred Felton.

Limited Edition - freelancer For additional information please contact (02) 9363 1088 or email info@avstev.com.au /raymondweil_australia

Experience I #JETSTAR

Plane pics

Five top tips for getting the ultimate window shot

Pre-book a window seat The small fee is worth it for the priceless views.

Make sure you select a seat on a wing if you’d like this in your shot, too.

Fly at sunrise or sunset Nothing beats the magical light of ‘golden hour’ – the time shortly after sunrise or before sunset when the sky is beautifully lit and soft.

Use lighting to your advantage Light can create beauty and drama, so play with your angles to capture the best shot and avoid reflections where possible.

Practice makes perfect.

Clean your lens and window A great photo must be free from visible specks and dust. Keeping things clean ensures you’ll get the money shot at just the right moment.

Be camera-ready on take-off Take-offs and landings provide very interesting angles and visuals - make sure your camera or smartphone is charged and ready to snap.

ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

22

tropicola. beach club.

coconut oil melting in the sun. the vivid blue of the water. the blinding white of staff on bended knee. the sizzle of shellfish over wood fire. a paradise against the sea.

–––––––– tropicola is what it felt like.

tropicola.info

seminyak. bali.

Promotion I BIG4 HOLIDAY PARKS

BASE Where Aussie funnyman Shane Jacobson goes to get away from it all

S 24

hane Jacobson first came to the nation’s attention as Kenny, the affable plumber with a heart of gold, in 2006. He has since graced screens both big and small, and trod the boards on productions of Guys and Dolls and Mother and Son. But that’s not all.

The award-winning actor has also penned two books – the 2017 paperback Rev Head, on his allconsuming passion for motoring, and his 2013 biography The Long Road to Overnight Success – not to mention his stints in stand-up comedy and radio, plus work as a producer, screenwriter and creative director.

Shane, who grew up in Melbourne’s Avondale Heights – in the city’s northeast – still prefers to keep it local when holidaying with the family, exploring the rivers, lakes and coastline of Victoria. His love for the great outdoors has today translated into two ambassadorial roles – one as Chief Scout for Scouts Victoria, and another as ambassador for BIG4 Holiday Parks, which boasts one of Australia’s most extensive networks of holiday parks.

Here the funnyman reveals which of the Garden State’s corners have won his heart.

Promotion I BIG4 HOLIDAY PARKS

Awaken the senses

BIG4 Holiday Parks in VIC

CLOCKWISE: Lake Eildon is a watersports hotspot, Shane sets up camp, the pretty Cathedral State Park is close to BIG4 Taggerty.

MY FAVOURITE PLACE TO HOLIDAY IS …

Lake Eildon in Victoria – it gives my family the best of both worlds. We’ve been going there for years with my brother and his family, usually for Christmas. It’s a bit of a tradition. The thing I like about Eildon is you’ve got access to watersports, and my brother and I have a boat which both of our families can enjoy. You can swim, ski, canoe – it’s a place where you can get away from everything.

PHOTOGRAPHY BIG4 WYE RIVER HOLIDAY PARK, ROBERT BLACKBURN / VISIT VICTORIA

THE BUSH WALK One of our favourite walks is a trail in the bush that doesn’t even have a name. The fact that it doesn’t have a name is part of the attraction for me. It’s not popular, but it is a beautiful walk and that’s what makes it so special. My wife often gets up early and goes for a run, and then comes back and we grab the kids and go for the walk as a family. The further the kids walk into the bush, the further they are away from the screens and the complications of life, and the closer you get to nature. There’s no signal out there, so you don’t get interrupted with the phone ringing, and the kids have no choice but to experience it. It’s a chance to get closer as a family, without the distractions. And nothing beats clean country air.

it’s a place where you can get away from everything EILDON EATS There are some great places to eat in Eildon. My favourites are the Eildon Bakery Café, which has the best coffee and pastries in town and a great deck overlooking the pondage [the small water storage behind the weir of a run-ofthe-river hydroelectric power plant], as well as some of the best fish and chips in the world at TJ’s Chish & Fips (both in the town centre). There’s great pub fare in Thornton as well as at the Golden Trout Hotel Motel in Eildon.

NOTHING BEATS MY HOME COOKING I love to cook, and part of the joy is being able to prepare a roast dinner or a barbecue, and having a glass of wine with the music going in the background. We do all this while the kids play puzzles – we always do a large family puzzle during Christmas holidays – and I enjoy giving

my wife a break, prepping the feast and cooking it myself.

It gives me a chance to do something I love, and which – strangely enough – I don’t get to do very often.

RESTAURANTS WORTH A ROAD TRIP There are plenty of consistently high-quality places to eat [in the surrounding regions]. For a treat we’ll stop at Amongst the Sticks, on the way to Eildon.

Its name is often shortened to The Sticks, and it’s an amazing little restaurant in Goughs Bay and no one in a million years would ever know it was there.

There’s high-quality produce and it’s delicious at both lunch and dinner. I couldn’t single out any one dish from the menu, as we order something different every time. In Mansfield we’ll often stop for a burger at the local fish and chip shop. Then I feel like I’m really on holiday.

I’m an ambassador and member of this iconic holiday park business, but I’ve been a devotee of their holiday experiences from early childhood. On the way to Eildon you can stay at Melbourne BIG4 Holiday Park, BIG4 Seymour Holiday Park and BIG4 Taggerty Holiday Park, which is very close to Lake Eildon and has a beautiful country feel.

There’s also a new affiliate park in Bonnie Doon, closer to Mansfield. The kids are always excited when we stay in one, probably because there’s always plenty to do.

I grew up holidaying near lakes and rivers, but my wife is from Sydney and grew up near the coast, so we also regularly holiday at BIG4 Wye River Holiday Park [Great Ocean Road].

It’s safe, full of activities (such as the giant jumping pillow), clean and spacious, and walking distance to the beach. The kids can safely use their bikes without any worries, and the park’s wildlife is just one of the reasons it’s so popular.

For breakfast and lunch you can’t go past the Wye General Store, and one of the region’s best pubs, the Wye Beach Hotel, is also within walking distance. big4.com.au

25

Experience I THE SHORTLIST

2 Best view in the house

5

1

OF THE BEST

Surprising sleeps Lay your head somewhere different with these offbeat accommodation options

3

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

1. BUBBLETENTS

4

Capertee, NSW bubbletentaustralia.com Go off-grid with a difference in these three Bubbletents.

Set up in particularly scenic spots around a huge farm, they overlook the World Heritagelisted wilderness of Capertee Valley canyon – second in size only to the Grand Canyon. The inflatable structures offer frontrow views of this little-known marvel, with all the comforts of a hotel and thoughtful touches such as a telescope and a woodfired hot tub.

2. BOOK AND BED

5

Shinjuku, Tokyo bookandbedtokyo.com Bookworms will fall for this novel hostel, where sleeping nooks are secreted away within bookshelves. Providing an oasis from the nonstop madness of Shinjuku, guests at the fifth and latest iteration of this mini-chain can choose from more than 2500 page-turners curated by Shibuya Publishing

& Booksellers. If you like the idea of killing time before a flight with a read and a nap, hourly rates are also available.

3..THE CASTLE IN BONNIE DOON Bonnie Doon, VIC airbnb.com.au/ rooms/5389205 No, you’re not dreaming, this iconic slice of Aussie cinematic culture can be yours for a stay.

Causing quite a flap among movie buffs when it popped up on Airbnb last year, the retrofabulous shack from The Castle is filled with tongue-in-cheek paraphernalia (think jousting sticks and a greyhound kennel) and overlooks the lake that inspired Darryl Kerrigan’s reveries. How’s the serenity?

4. BANGKOK TREE HOUSE Bang Krachao, Bangkok bangkoktreehouse.com On the banks of Chao Praya River in Bangkok’s living green

lung – Bang Krachao island – Bangkok Tree House is a free-flowing bamboo eco-hotel reached by boat, bike or foot only. Each multi-storey suite features a rooftop and open-air shower, but those seeking even greater immersion in nature can choose to snooze in the ‘View with a Room’ – a comfy bed on an open platform jutting above the forest canopy.

5. SILOSTAY Little River, New Zealand silostay.kiwi.nz An architectural experiment has transformed eight grain silos into striking apartments worthy of the detour to the small town of Little River. In the words of SiloStay’s founders, Little River promises “no internationally recognised natural wonders, no Guggenheim, no fiords [and] no towering waterfalls”. But it does offer an ideal base to explore the scenic Banks Peninsula, less than an hour’s drive from Christchurch, along with ample inspiration for design nerds.

PHOTOGRAPHY MAYUMI IWASAKI, SILO STAY NZ, BANGKOK TREE HOUSE, BOOK AND BED

26

levate EB your holiday

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Keep hydrated

Rolling out the swag

Doing it rough

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RIT AVOU LIA’S F A R T S AU

Experience I HOW TO

Switch off to tap in

How to

HAVE A MINDFUL For your best holiday yet, don’t forget to really savour the moment WORDS SAMERA KAMALEDDINE

Operation disconnect Phoebe Boonkerd, wellness director at Phuket’s Amatara Wellness Resort, suggests scheduling in half a day before your trip to clear issues with work, family or home that could have you texting or emailing while you’re away. “Hide any apps that remind you of work in a folder so you aren’t tempted to open them,” she suggests.

Set an intention Why have you planned this holiday? To relax, meet people, have an adventure?

“When you’re clear on your ‘why’, it sets the tone and your daily activities – including where you go and what you eat – will be guided by it,” says Kate Kendall, co-founder and director of yoga at Sydney’s Flow Athletic.

Why do you travel?

Boost your flexibility Get the most out of your trip by staying curious and open, says Kate. “You want to be organised enough that you don’t miss out on certain activities you’ve had your heart set on, but leave room for inspiration, mystery and spontaneity.

Lean into other things that come up. You never know where it might take you or who you’ll meet.”

Welcome the unfamiliar Speaking of those soon-tobe friends: “When we meet new people, the brain reacts with a huge amount

of new nervous system activity and adaptive processes,” says Phoebe.

Feel awkward meeting the eyes of a stranger? “It’s good to accept some slight discomfort as a given aspect of the experience and a worthy trade-off for the benefits of pushing through it,” Phoebe adds.

Write it down Keeping a travel journal, even if you don’t usually do so at home, is an awesome way to savour the holiday moments.

“The act of sitting down and writing can give you pause, keeping you in the mindful mood of your holiday. Sometimes

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS

28

ure, switching on your out-of-office and snapping a selfie at the departure gate are both travel essentials. But to truly get into holiday mode and reap all the benefits of your upcoming adventure, learn to be more mindful.

Experience I HOW TO

Who will you meet?

Soak it all in Watch life go by

29

Write it down

nothing is more enticing than a blank page,” says Phoebe.

Nurture in nature “Biophilia is the healing power of nature,” says Kate, so get into it. Even if you find yourself in a big city, seek out a nice, green park. “Just 20 minutes in

You never know where it might take you or who you’ll meet

nature has been proven to have a profound effect on your sense of connection not only to nature, but all things.”

Go on watch “Get an added dimension of a new culture by (politely) peoplewatching in public areas

and noticing how people walk and interact,” suggests Phoebe. “Being quiet and observing life around you can be a kind of contemplation, leaving you feeling peaceful and in love with the world.” And who wouldn’t want those feels on vacay?

Experience I DRINK UP

Granny’s Iced Tea

Australian botanicals are king at new Melburnian cocktail parlour Galah ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

Spice things up

When life gives you...

31

Apple of our eye Dunk me

F

rom wild hibiscus to eucalyptus tea, lemon myrtle and native finger lime, it’s the mission of new Windsor bar Galah to spotlight Australia’s copious bounty of oft-underutilised botanicals. Natural Australian wines, local craft beers and homegrown spirits also feature on the menu of the New York loft-inspired space, set above a takeaway wine and liquor store that doubles as the entrance.

Granny’s Iced Tea INGREDIENTS • 1 chamomile tea bag • 1 cup boiling water • 60ml Beenleigh Australian • Spiced Rum • 20ml lemon juice • 15ml cinnamon syrup • (recipe right) FOR GARNISH • 1 Granny Smith apple • 1 cinnamon stick METHOD 1. Steep the tea bag in a cup of hot water and brew for two to three minutes. The longer

you brew it, the stronger the chamomile taste. Allow to cool.

2. Combine the spiced rum, lemon juice and cinnamon syrup in a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously.

3. Pour into a highball glassand add crushed ice to cool.

5. Top with the cold chamomile tea.

6. Thinly slice crescents of apple and thread onto a toothpick in a fan shape. Use as a garnish along with the cinnamon stick.

CINNAMON SYRUP • 1 cup water • 1 cup brown sugar • 1.5 tsp ground cinnamon METHOD 1. Combine water, sugar and cinnamon in a medium saucepan over high heat.

Whisk continuously until sugar dissolves and liquid come to the boil. Reduce to a simmer and whisk for another five minutes, or until the syrup thickens.

2. Transfer syrup to a clean glass jar and allow to cool. It will last in the fridge, covered, for up to one month.

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Experience I FOOD ICON

SPREAD theWORD Australian producers and chefs are turning a pantry staple into an everyday luxury WORDS SOFIA LEVIN

Pierre Issa has helped drive Australia’s butter boom.

BELOW: Fawk Foods Kitchen & Bakery opened in the Hunter Valley last month.

33

PHOTOGRAPHY PEPE SAYA BUTTER, DOM CHERRY

A

lot has changed since Pierre Issa, better known as Pepe Saya, launched his eponymous butter brand in 2010. Back then, every Australian restaurant with a name for itself was serving French butter. “We’re a dairy nation, so why are we buying butter from Europe?” Pepe asked the industry. These days, they come to him. Over the last eight years Pepe has been at the forefront of the shift to ‘local’. He sources 18,000 litres of cream a week from farms around the country and makes around nine tonnes of butter. But quantity is not where Pepe profits, given the butter-making process

takes up to five weeks.

“The secret to our success is how we break down that butter into different portions and sizes,” says Pepe. He fills Restaurant Hubert’s paper butter cups in Sydney and is working on a whiskey butter order for a top-secret client. In 2015 he even made ant butter for a TEDx event, which apparently tasted like Vegemite.

Chef Peter Gunn, of IDES in Melbourne, divides the restaurant industry into two: those who buy quality butter from producers like Pepe and others who make it. Peter is the latter. He first made his ‘peanutbutter butter’ when running pop-ups in 2013.

Now permanently in

the butter-making process takes up to five weeks Collingwood, his team churn it daily from organic peanut paste, Murray River sea salt and St David Dairy cream, storing it in the wine fridge for spreadability.

Peter never intended to

sell it, but after uploading a snap to Instagram, Troy Wheeler from Meatsmith – an upmarket butcher owned by chef Andrew McConnell – asked to stock it. “Bread and butter are important because

Experience I FOOD ICON

CLOCKWISE: Tasmanian Butter Co’s goods are in demand, bread and butter elevated at EXP. restaurant, stepping up production at King Valley Dairy.

With butter in general, people are more educated now that he opened Fawk Foods Kitchen & Bakery last month, just down the road from the restaurant.

Similarly, Olivia Morrison from Tasmanian Butter Co – the state’s delicious Produce Award winner in the dairy category this year – is moving her butter factory into a bigger space in Launceston. She will incorporate a bakery, coffee bar and production area where visitors can watch butter being made.

Olivia founded Tasmanian Butter Co a couple of years ago when, after not being able to find a decent local product, she quit her IT job and made

one herself. With just 120 kilograms produced each week, it was lucky that chef Christine Manfield discovered the butter when visiting a farmers’ market in Hobart and nominated it for the delicious accolade.

Olivia also supplies local restaurants including Stillwater and Timbre, as well as Pt. Leo Estate in Victoria.

Now that butter is on the rise, Naomi Ingleton, founder of King Valley Dairy (formerly Myrtleford

Butter Factory) is looking for new ideas. She’s working on a range of flavoured ghee as a side project and had her first order in June. Named Dosha Food Co, the range includes original, roasted garlic, turmeric and hemp.

“With butter in general, people are more educated now and they actually care about where their dairy products are coming from and how they’re made.

With ghee it’s a whole re-education process again,” Naomi says.

PHOTOGRAPHY EXP HUNTER VALLEY, KING VALLEY DAIRY, NINA HAMILTON

34

they’re very familiar. It’s like topping up the water in a restaurant, they go hand in hand,” Peter says.

For Frank Fawkner of EXP. in the Hunter Valley, butter is part of the experience. His restaurant used to present guests with a herb and liquidnitrogen-filled ramekin.

Diners would then crush the herbs as staff added cultured butter.

For the past year the kitchen has infused butter with lucerne hay. “It represents what we do on the land; it’s local jersey cream and sometimes the cows feed off lucerne, so we figured it all goes together and gives a really nice depth of flavour,” Frank says. He believes bread and butter are a way to stand out – a mark of how much care a kitchen puts into preparing a meal. Frank says he loves bread and butter so much

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Awaiting outside your room is a swimming pool, children’s splash zone and waterpark, kids club, daily activities program and more to keep the younger ones entertained as well as a selection of dining and entertainment options for the adults which offers all guests a place to relax and unwind without ever having to leave.

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Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

24 BONDI BEACH HOURS IN

SYDNEY

From backpacker hangout to stylish weekender – experience Australia’s most famous beachside suburb in style WORDS PAUL EWART

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, BONDI TRATTORIA, POWER LIVING YOGA, NIKKI TO

CLOCKWISE: Bondi Icebergs’ iconic ocean pool, Power Living Yoga, the tried and true Bondi Trattoria, learn how to ride waves like a local with Let’s Go Surfing.

MORNING

BREAKFAST

Make like a local and rise early. Bondi dwellers get up before dawn, don their activewear and indulge in their exercise of choice: hot yoga. A stone’s throw from the beach, the local branch of Power Living (aka the largest yoga studio network in Australia) has an extensive timetable so, whether you are a hardcore yogi or an absolute newbie, you shouldn’t have trouble finding a class to suit your level. powerliving.com.au

Post-yoga, refuel with a slap-up breakfast. One of the best options is also one of the oldest. Known for decades to locals as ‘the Tratt’, Bondi Trattoria was given a menu refresh by its new owners last year. Yes there’s great coffee, yes there’s sourdough with variations of smashed avo, but this place offers ingenious food combinations, served up in a slick, brasserie-style venue. The crab omelette is especially delectable. bonditrattoria.com.au

MID-MORNING Whether you’re a first-timer or a resident, the Bondi to Bronte coastal walk never gets old.

Showing off the best of the coastline, you’ll take in panoramic ocean views, gorgeous beaches, rock pools and clifftops over a stretch of a few kilometres. Time your visit well and you may even spot whales during their annual migration (May to November).

Sheltered by headlands, Bondi’s protected waters are also a great place to surf. You can hire boards and wetsuits or sign up for lessons at the area’s longest running surf school, Let’s Go Surfing. letsgosurfing.com.au

37

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

Plates of charm LUNCH Mexican fever is still running high in Bondi. The newest eatery, Fonda – an import from Melbourne – is relaxed, casual and easy on the wallet.

Positioned on Hall Street – the area’s main drag – guests can dig into tacos, vibrant salads, poké bowls and tostadas. There’s also a creative line-up of signature cocktails and margaritas. fondamexican.com.au

AFTERNOON

DINNER

Icebergs, possibly the most photographed ocean pool in existence, has been catapulted to international stardom by snap-happy Instagrammers.

Casual entry is only $6.50, which gives you access to the pool, gym and sauna. Onsite massage studio Body Spot, which has operated for more than two decades, is staffed by some of the best therapists in the city. Body scrub and mud wrap sessions are also available and each treatment is administered to a calming soundtrack of ocean surf. icebergs.com.au bodyspotatbondibeach.com.au

Drake Eatery perfectly captures Bondi’s evolution from backpacker hangout to hipster hub. It has managed to sustain the interest of residents for two years – an impressive feat considering the notoriously fickle beachdwellers. The bustling, contemporary restaurant specialises in seasonal, Modern Australian dishes in large, share-style portions.

You can’t go past the seared tuna, pan-seared thyme gnocchi with hazelnuts and blue cheese, or the Brussels sprouts with truffle parmesan. drakeeatery.com.au

DRINKS Ravesis, positioned overlooking the beach and the surrounding ocean on Campbell Parade, has been a local nightlife staple for years. Fresh from a full refurbishment two years ago, the venue is a sundowner hotspot and its front balcony is the ideal place to sink a beer or select from the impressive gin and cocktail menu. hotelravesis.com

SLEEP Bondi’s first major boutique accommodation, QT Bondi is the sixth QT to open in Australia. Part of the area’s wave of development, the property embodies the adage of ‘location, location, location’.

Within spitting distance of the country’s most famous stretch of sand, the 69 apartmentfeel suites, accessed via a kitsch, neon-lit lobby, feature memorable small touches including a mini bar offering typically Bondi goodies such as kombucha, thongs and beard-trimming kits. qtbondi.com.au

each treatment is administered to a soundtrack of ocean surf Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney from all major cities.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY FONDA BONDI, QT BONDI, HOTEL RAVESIS

38

CLOCKWISE: Dine on Mexican classics at Fonda, QT Bondi’s sleek rooms, Ravesis is a firm favourite for sundowners.

E S T. 1 9 9 9

@madeinearthofficial

Put a lid on it

40

PICKLE

TRY YOUR HAND AT A CENTURIES-OLD METHOD CHAMPIONED BY GRANDMAS AROUND THE WORLD WORDS JO STEWART Gherkins galore: put a glut of vegetables to good use by pickling.

OPPOSITE: Damian Sandercock and goods from Piper Street Food Co.

Experience I RECIPE

PHOTOGRAPHY PIPER STREET FOOD CO.

B

efore working in fine-dining restaurants in Melbourne and the UK, Damian Sandercock’s culinary roots lay in the family home. “I started my apprenticeship by cooking with my mother and grandmother,” he says.

Now based in the picturesque town of Kyneton, in Victoria’s Macedon Ranges, Damian makes the most of produce grown in the surrounding farmland by offering pickling and preserving workshops at Piper Street Food Co. With the links between improved gut health and regular consumption of fermented foods wellknown, more people are seeking to learn the old-school art of pickling and preserving.

In days gone by (before refrigeration, convenience stores and supermarkets became commonplace) pickling homegrown vegetables was essential.

Damian explains that while the world has changed, people still crave an understanding and appreciation of the pickling and preserving processes that previous generations cultivated out of necessity.

“Nowadays, there’s no real need to pickle and preserve since we can buy these items from grocery stores, but people [still] do it because they appreciate the process and derive enjoyment

and satisfaction from encapsulating the seasons in bottles,” he says.

Whether driven by a desire to reduce food waste, reap the health benefits of eating fermented foods or master a new kitchen skill, Damian’s pickling and preserving classes are popular with people from all walks of life, from hip young foodies with expensive pickle habits to retirees keen to begin pickling their backyard produce.

While Damian suggests sticking to the fundamentals when pickling (use sterile jars; add sugar to balance out the acidity), he encourages experimentation with flavours. “In Australia we now have access to ingredients that previous generations didn’t. For example, spices from the Middle East are readily available and well suited to savoury pickle recipes,” Damian says.

Generous with his time and knowledge, Damian is happy to see people learn the art of food preservation. “I don’t like the idea of chefs closely guarding their recipes and never sharing them.

For me, food is all about generosity,” he explains.

“Food brings people to the table.”

Damian holds a variety of cooking classes and workshops year-round at Piper Street Food Co. piperstfoodco.com

Savoury pickled vegetables METHOD 1. Wash, cut, peel and slice the vegetables.

2. Combine the water, sugar, vinegar and salt in a pan, and bring to the boil before taking off the heat.

3. Pack the vegetables and preferred herbs and spices into clean, sterilised jars (see below) and fill with the hot pickling solution.

4. If necessary, wipe jars clean with a damp cloth and seal firmly with a sterilised lid. Pickles will keep longer if stored in the fridge.

TO STERILISE JARS 1. Place your jars in a canning pot, or very large pot, right side up.

2. Fill the pot with water, covering the jar tops by 3cm.

3. Bring the water to the boil and continue boiling for 10 minutes.

4. Reduce the heat and keep the jars in the hot water until you’re ready to fill them.

INGREDIENTS • 1kg seasonal vegetables (carrots, cauliflower, cucumber, green beans and beetroot work well) • 1 cup water • ¾ cup sugar • 2 cups white wine vinegar • 1tbsp salt

OPTIONAL EXTRAS Natural spices and herbs such as peppercorns, mustard seeds, star anise, whole cloves, coriander seed, pimento, fennel seeds, juniper, garlic, onion, bay leaves, as well as sprigs of thyme, dill or rosemary.

41

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem.

What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill.

Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up.

New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established. With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

TOKYO – MINUS THE ONSEN YOU DON’T HAVE TO BARE ALL IN THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN – HERE ARE FOUR OTHER SPAS WORTH THEIR SALT WORDS MEGAN OSBORNE

43

PHOTOGRAPHY MANDARIN ORIENTAL

J

apan’s famed communal bathing facilities are built on and around its natural hot springs, but the get-back-to-nature onsen experience isn’t for everyone.

For starters, there are strict rules around tattoos. While that Southern Cross on your shoulder might not make you look anything like a Yakuza gang member, it will still get you barred at the door. And those without ink may not be comfortable getting their kit off in front of strangers. These four modesty-conscious Tokyo stops are worth a dip.

Totally Tokyo Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, Nihonbashi This package is based on five symbolic elements that make up the Japanese capital – pine, plum, bamboo, green tea and rice – combined in a decadent spa experience. Promising to bring calm and clarity to body and mind, the Totally Tokyo experience offers an indulgent getaway from the hectic city streets. Your first stop, on the hotel’s 37th floor, is a soak in the ‘Heat and Water’ area, with a spa-temperature pool boasting partially submerged loungers and a breathtaking view

Sauna with a view in the Mandarin Oriental. ABOVE: Mile-high massage at the Mandarin Oriental.

the get-backto-nature onsen experience isn’t for everyone

over the skyscrapers.

Following a foot and lower-leg scrub is a dry massage that’s sure to stretch you out in all the right places.

Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

CLOCKWISE: Futuristic Goku no Kimochi, the Palace Hotel’s evian Spa, The Peninsula’s sleek setting.

Find bliss here

You know your experience is going to be phenomenal Royal treatment Palace Hotel Tokyo, Marunouchi Make like Disney royalty and book a treatment at this hotel’s awe-inspiring top-floor evian Spa. Take a dip in the indoor heated pool, decorated in light tones and pearlescent trim, before giving way to utter relaxation. Pick between a fragrant vanilla, almond or jasmine and green tea scented oil to invigorate your senses as your masseuse rejuvenates your muscles. The Palace Hotel is located close to the Imperial Palace in Tokyo, so time your visit after a busy morning seeing the sights.

Coastal cure The Peninsula Tokyo, Chiyoda The Peninsula Spa has a well-founded reputation as one of the most iconic in Tokyo. A memorable heat-and-water experience precedes your treatment, with a dry or steam sauna and open-air showers.

One shower has warm, lavender-scented jets that massage you from the sides, the other has cold water that sprays in a minty mist or falls in waves from a waterfall spout. Top it off with a decadent facial – having algae on your face is not as weird as it sounds.

Heads up Goku no Kimochi, Shibuya This salon chain originated in Kyoto and specialises in head and neck massages. Its therapists boast that they can put you in a state of near – or complete – sleep within 10 minutes.

Their massages, which focus on pressure points and use techniques to stimulate the production of dopamine, have become so popular that

bookings are required three months in advance. You know your experience is going to be phenomenal, even if you do spend most of it asleep.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Tokyo from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY THE PENINSULA SPA, GOKU NO KIMOCHI, PALACE HOTEL TOKYO

44

Connect with Natureâ„¢

CERTIFIED VEGAN

CERTIFIED ORGANIC

CERTIFIED VEGETARIAN

New Zealand DISCOVER YOURS AT: David Jones, Priceline, Chemist Warehouse, National Pharmacies, selected Myer and Malouf Pharmacies, Great Earth stores and Adorebeauty.com.au, independent pharmacies and health stores nationwide.

Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

Shades that shout IT’S TIME TO DITCH THE NEUTRALS AND NUDES, AND REACH FOR THE RAINBOW

@aniamilczarczyk

TAKE A DASH of ’80s nightclub and stir in a touch of ’60s psychedelic and you come close to one of makeup’s most playful emerging trends.

I have noticed a surge of blue coming through “Experimenting with bold colours is not just for extroverts, it can be done in subtle ways for anyone who isn’t 100 per cent confident,” Ania says. “Rather than doing a full splash of coloured eyeshadow you could perhaps try a coloured

eyeliner. Or say that you use brown eyeshadow every day, try blending in a small amount of another colour, so that you just get a faint wash of colour coming through.”

Tre recommends taking one makeup trend you love and adding it to your routine. “If you love doing one base eyeshadow colour – using black eyeliner and mascara – why not change it up and

@tredallas

use blue liner, mascara or eyeshadow? That way you have the trend reference without being too couture,” he says.

Ania also offers some sage advice: “Practice with the colour at home ... to get a feel for it. Don’t wait until 30 minutes before that big party you’re already running late for to try your new emerald green eyeshadow for the first time.”

PHOTOGRAPHY ANIA MILCZARCZYK, TRE DALLAS

Runway to reality Thankfully, there are ways mere mortals can get bold with colour, too.

@tredallas

46

It first popped up on the runway – from blue eyeliner at H&M’s Paris Fashion Week show to lashings of pink eyeshadow modelled by Australia’s Romance Was Born at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Melbourne makeup guru Tre Dallas, who has tended the likes of Samantha Harris and Miranda Kerr, has recently seen beauty enter a blue period.

“I have noticed a surge of blue coming through this season, whether in textured eyeshadows, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick or even highlighters.”

Sydney-based makeup artist Ania Milczarczyk shares her highly soughtafter skills with nearly 250,000 Insta followers.

“At the moment (and for a while now) I love using yellows, oranges, reds and pinks on eyes,” she says.

“I always prefer a bold eye over a lip – I feel like there is more you can get away with on the eyes.”

@aniamilczarczyk

Colour me beautiful

Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

3.

Find your colour

1.

With high-profile makeup artists Ania Milczarczyk and Tre Dallas

2.

Get glowing

PICK THE RIGHT SHADE If you’re not sure where to start, Tre offers a colour matching tip: “Google the colour wheel and whatever colour is opposite to your eye colour, that’s the colour you should go for. [It’s a] quick way to make your eyes look #TreMazing.”

CONSULT THE EXPERTS Ania recommends visiting the pros to find out what works for you. “Feel free to go to a counter and get the artists there to try it on you, and wear it around for the rest of the day before you commit. That is exactly what they are there for, and they’ll probably be excited someone actually wants to try on a fun pop of colour rather than just colour-matching their 52nd foundation for the day.”

4.

5.

7.

6.

COLOUR SHOW 1. MAC Pro Longwear Eye Liner in Mountain Air, $39, maccosmetics.com 2. MAC Frost Lipstick in Soft Hint, $36, maccosmetics.com 3. 3INA The Cream Eyeshadow 301, $21.95, 3ina.com/au_en 4. 3INA The Highlighter 200, $21.95, 3ina.com/au_en 5. KESTER BLACK Nail Polish in Barbie, $20, shop.kesterblack.com 6. NYX Color Mascara in Forget Me Not, $12.95, priceline.com.au 7. AUSTRALIS COSMETICS Kaleidoscope Eyeshadow Palette, $19.99, australiscosmetics.com.au

JUST HAVE FUN Both Ania and Tre agree it’s important not to take things too seriously. “I always tell my clients, ‘It’s makeup. Play, have fun!’” Tre says. “My tip is simple: try everything and anything,” Ania offers.

“Makeup is meant to be fun.

If you like it just try it – you will be the first to know if something doesn’t suit you.” @aniamilczarczyk @tredallas

47

Experience I HEALTH

A fighting chance Upskill while working out with krav maga WORDS ERIKA MUDIE

At the ready

or isn’t self-defence, and we’re shown how to get into our fighting stance.

It’s easy to imagine krav maga as brutal and masters of the sport being aggressive hotheads always looking for a fight.

However, classes available to the general public focus less on how to leave someone in a bloodied heap and more on how to quickly put a safe distance between yourself and a would-be assailant.

We’re shown two techniques: how to shove an aggressor away from us and how

WHERE TO TRY MELBOURNE IDF Training offers a welcoming atmosphere for newbies in Caulfield and the CBD. idftraining.com.au SYDNEY Krav Maga Defence Institute (KMDI) has studios in Surry Hills, Bondi Junction and the CBD. They also offer a program specifically for women called She Fights Back. kmdi.com.au BRISBANE Krav Maga Training Academy has been offering lessons in Brisbane since 2005.

Its schools are in the CBD, Enoggera, Loganholme and Mansfield. kmta.com.au

to defend against a haymaker punch. Simple and – as my new friend and I discovered while tentatively attacking each other in class – effective.

As I head home, quite sweaty, I notice some muscle soreness – the sign of a good workout. And there’s the added fun of learning a new skill.

I skip the many enticing dining options this time, but I’m certain I’ll be back soon, and with more reason to show up than just excitement over the food.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRAV MAGA DEFENCE INSTITUTE (KMDI)

48

SEEKING OUT the gym for my first krav maga class in Melbourne’s Caulfield, I couldn’t help but note the many local restaurant options. If nothing else, that was going to be my motivation for going all-in.

In Hebrew, krav maga means ‘contact combat’ and is popularly known as the self-defence system used by the Israel Defense Forces. The system incorporates elements from boxing, aikido, judo and karate.

Before the class starts, I make friends with a chipper 18-year-old who tells me she’s interested in trying out krav maga to empower herself. It makes me realise my intentions for the class aren’t too clear. I don’t need to be empowered and I have no aspirations to be a G.I. Jane type.

To be honest, at that point, I was more interested in a good restaurant recommendation from a local. I parrot what she says about empowerment and ask if she lives in the neighbourhood.

She doesn’t.

Class starts and our instructor casually mentions he used to be a sniper (gulp). We’re given a little talking-to about the law regarding what is or isn’t assault and what is

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51

Experience I WORK & PLAY

Establishing an icon What’s more Australian than a thong? When Melburnian Marc Lord and his partners realised no one was making them on home soil, they knew they were on to something WORDS PETER BARRETT

Tell us about your business.

We’re the only Australianmade and owned thong brand, called Thongs. Our mission is to deliver the best quality and durability to the market.

Why thongs?

For a country that made the footwear famous, we noticed there were no Australian brands in the mix. We also felt there was an opportunity for having a higher quality product that we could sell. Plus, when you wear thongs you’re free and everyone is equal. Thongs are great.

Has the business grown?

We have a team of three: a marketing director, a creative director and a product director. So far,

The existing market didn’t seem to offer anything of great quality we’ve focused on getting our online sales and customer experience right. Now those things are in place, we’ve moved to wholesale

distribution and have been trading at Sydney International Airport since May. This will expand as we enter the Aussie summer.

Have you faced many hurdles along the way?

Getting the product right was the most difficult part. It took almost two years to design and get the manufacturing process right. We had to design the tooling, get

the right durability, test that durability over time, create moulds and get the recipe right. It took us more than 100 versions.

Where to from here?

We’ve created a product that we’re super proud of. After nailing the wholesale market in Australia, we’re looking at the global wholesale market over the next two years. thongsaustralia.com

PHOTOGRAPHY SWANNDRI, THONGS AUSTRALIA, VEGEMITE

52

Icon in the making

What sparked the idea?

I was about to study an MBA when a colleague and I got sidetracked. We were both tired of our thongs breaking and having to replace them all the time.

The existing market didn’t seem to offer anything of great quality or durability.

So, we thought, why not just have a crack? It’s been a two-year process and we sold our first pair in December last year.

Experience I WORK & PLAY

How to create an iconic brand

WHO OWNS THESE NATIONAL ICONS? 1. VEGEMITE It’s hard to think of a more Aussie brand than this one. The yeasty vegetable extract has been slapped on toast (in varying thickness) since 1922. From the nostalgic “happy little Vegemites” jingle, to pop music references (“he just smiled and gave me a Vegemite sandwich”, Men At Work), this spread is part of the national identity. Vegemite is still produced in a Melbourne factory and last year returned to Australian hands when Bega Cheese bought the company from a US multinational. vegemite.com.au

1

2 3. SWANNDRI Farmers in the Land of the Long White Cloud have been wearing their “swannies” – heavy woollen, hooded garments originally made with a lace-up neck – since 1913.

Today, New Zealand’s unofficial national costume has updated its look to include a zipper. The company has expanded too, to offer men’s and women’s clothing, as well as boots and accessories.

Wool for its jackets is sourced from NZ merino sheep, and you’ll find this iconic brand worn by an increasing number of urban Kiwis. swanndri.co.nz

2. RM WILLIAMS Since Reginald Murray Williams sold his first leather saddles in 1932, the company has become one of Australia’s most recognisable footwear and clothing brands. Its boots are worn by prime ministers and routinely gifted to American presidents; its oilskin stockman’s jackets have become symbols of a romanticised version of life on the land. RM passed away in 2003 at the age of 95 and today the once family-owned Adelaide company is in the hands of private equity fund L Capital, with actor Hugh Jackman on board as an investor. rmwilliams.com.au

Three tips from Sydney venture strategist and author of The 1 Minute Commute, Robert Gerrish.

1. Get personal.

“True icons realise that having thousands of disengaged followers is meaningless. Far better to resonate deeply with a few and know that good news spreads.”

2. Pay attention.

“Customers constantly show businesses what they ideally want and how they prefer to transact and communicate. Check your FAQs, monitor website clicks and adapt to suit your audience.”

3. Make it the best.

3

“Tesla launched with just 500 cars and yet the brand became an instant icon.

Position well, right from the get-go.” robertgerrish.com

53

YOU’RE MORE SUITED THAN YOU MIGHT THINK

With more than 3000 new positions available, a career with Victoria Police can offer you: • Paid training and great starting salary • Rosters planned in advance allowing for work/life balance • Generous leave entitlements • The chance to make a difference to your community • The opportunity to specialise after as little as 2 years

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Hop to it

Take a walk on the wild side on Tasmania’s northeast coast. Read more about this stunning part of Australia and its furred and feathered inhabitants from page 124.

PHOTOGRAPHY @REUBENNUTT

55

WELLINGTON I SYDNEY I PERTH I AND MORE

Market days Sydneysiders descend on the Carriageworks Farmers’ Market on Saturdays to socialise and stock up on fine produce.

56

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTIE MOORE

Mingle with the locals at the iconic Carriageworks Farmers’ Market in Sydney’s Eveleigh

Greener pastures

SYDNEY I CARRIAGEWORKS

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The morning’s harvest (left to right) Milk-crate cafÊs pop up so that every man (and their dog) can linger over coffee and ready-to-eat dishes from stallholders.

Organic fruit and veg and seasonal flowers are market staples.

59

60

In bloom (left to right) Dozens of producers and providores arrive early on Saturday morning, with everything from flowers to pho.

61

Explore I SYDNEY

A backyard bounty Bringing the country’s riches to the city, Sydney’s Carriageworks has become a national treasure WORDS CHLOE CANN

S

SYDNEY

About the photographer

and excellence, and it’s strict about enforcing these values. Stallholders undergo spot checks and farm visits and submit an annual list of produce that they will purvey, detailing seasonal variations month by month.

“My goal is to create a world-class food and arts precinct,” explains the market’s creative director Mike McEnearney, a restaurateur with a background in fine dining.

“I want to grow the market to support our incredible local farmers and producers, and show the world what incredible food we produce. If I can show people the importance of buying locally produced, seasonal food directly from the farmer, the world will be a far greater place.”

The market is a firm fixture in the diary of Sydney-based photographer Christie Moore, who shot this issue’s photo essay.

“Carriageworks is my local market and picking up fresh flowers is my favourite way to spend a Saturday morning,” she says. “I’m also partial to all the samples on offer and often end up leaving with a cheese ... or two.”

Christie adds that markets tend to be prime hunting grounds for photographers: “Markets are so vibrant and provide many interesting elements to capture – from cute dogs to people coming and going, and a rainbow of fresh food. And the architectural backdrop at Carriageworks really brings those elements together.”

Professional travel and lifestyle photographer Christie Moore specialises in visual storytelling for brands in the creative and travel industries, along with editorial-style photography for print and digital publications. christiemoore photography.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTIE MOORE

62

ince Sydney’s Carriageworks Farmers’ Market began 10 years ago, it hasn’t just won the hearts of locals and visitors – it’s cherished by the very farmers and producers that man its stalls too.

“Market insiders know that early, during the hustle and bustle of set-up, before the market officially opens, the stallholders scurry around exchanging goods with each other,” explains Lesley Bland, who runs Kurrawong Organics with her husband Quentin. “We all love the amazing produce and products that you can access at this market.”

The organic farm, situated some 2.5 hours west of Sydney, has remained in the Bland family for three generations. But Kurrawong’s story is just one stitch in the patchwork of more than 70 farming families from NSW and ACT that make up the market’s community.

The Saturday market is held within the industrial walls of Carriageworks in the inner-city Sydney suburb of Eveleigh. It’s a contemporary, multiarts centre that’s been refashioned out of the old rail yards, dating from 1880. The market’s ethos revolves around product authenticity, origin, knowledge, sustainability

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DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

AUCKLAND

WELLINGTON

New Zealand

Contents

66 I CAPITAL

TASTES

What’s on the menu in Wellington 65

74 I THE WIDE

OPEN ROAD

Explore NZ’s beauty spots with a tent or camper

82 I MAKE A MOVE

PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN APSE

Our New Zealand adventure hit list

Explore I WELLINGTON

WILD ABOUT WELLINGTON Wing your way to Wellington for a magical month of eating, drinking and cavorting WORDS ALICE GALLETLY

PHOTOGRAPHY CUSTOMS BY COFFEE SUPREME, MILK CRATE, HANNAHS LANEWAY, JEFF MCEWAN

66

Explore | WELLINGTON AUCKLAND

WELLINGTON

Sweet as

67 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Customs

by Coffee Supreme, Milk Crate, Hannahs Laneway. OPPOSITE: Wandering windy Wellington.

Photograph by Julian Apse

Explore | WELLINGTON

PHOTOGRAPHY THE HANGAR, MARANUI CAFE, MILK CRATE. / PRECINCT 35

T

his month, thousands of visitors will descend on New Zealand’s capital to experience the two things this city does best. No, we’re not talking gale-force winds and The Lord of The Rings tours: we’re talking food and beer.

With Visa Wellington on a Plate and Beervana held backto-back, August in Wellington is a magical month of eating, drinking and spending too much, preferably while dressed in stretch pants. But if you’re not going to be in town for either festival, don’t despair. Welly is a great place to overindulge any day of the year, with a ridiculous number of cool little cafés, craft beer destinations and top-notch restaurants waiting to woo you.

With so many new eateries opening in the city each month (and what feels like a new craft brewery every other day), knowing exactly where to drink and dine can be hard. To help you navigate this moveable feast, here’s a guide to the best of the bunch.

CLOCKWISE: Get a caffeine fix at The Hangar, hearty dishes from Maranui Cafe, discover Precinct 35 inside coffee-hub Milk Crate.

69

COFFEE CALLING

There’s no need to ever set foot in a Starbucks in Wellington, or, in fact, settle for any coffee that’s less than transformative.

Instead, make like a local and start your day at Customs on Ghuznee Street, the flagship café of roasters Coffee Supreme, and ground zero for the city’s hippest coffee nerds. They offer filter or espresso, with a rotating line-up of single origin beans and blends. Bonus points for the uber-stylish retro decor and the Little Dough Co doughnuts available Friday to Sunday.

If you fancy a second cup, another of the city’s best coffee shops, Milk Crate, is right next door. The beans come courtesy of local roasters Rich Coffee and there’s a great range of fresh cabinet food if you’re feeling peckish. A word of warning: Milk Crate shares a space with beautiful design store Precinct 35, so keep your eyes on your flat white if you’re trying not to splurge.

Finally, The Hangar on the corner of Willis and Dixon streets

is the cosy, always-bustling home of local roasters Flight Coffee. As well as a full menu and boozy cocktails, they offer specialty coffee served every which way, with tasting notes on all the beans to help you choose.

If you cop out and simply order a flat white, that’s fine too.

BRUNCH OR LUNCH?

Maranui Cafe occupies the top floor of the Maranui Surf Lifesaving Club in Lyall Bay, serving up hearty, hangovercuring brunches, strong coffee and excellent views over the

water (best experienced during a full-blown storm). There’s always a queue on weekends, but thankfully the owners recently opened a second café in Petone, Seashore Cabaret, which offers the same mix of colourful Kiwi beach vibes and dramatic sea views.

For something more refined, Nikau Café at the City Gallery Wellington has been the place to take everyone from your hip foodie friend to your grandma for more than two decades.

The sage-fried eggs are buttery perfection on a plate, and the kedgeree and pan-fried halloumi are legendary among

Explore | WELLINGTON

CLOCKWISE: Local favourite Ortega Fish Shack, plating up in Aro Valley’s kitchen, ‘European soul food’ from Field & Green.

locals. Don’t forget to get a sweet treat from the baking cabinet on your way out.

Also in the CBD, Field & Green serves up the world’s best cheese scones (have two and call it lunch and no one would blame you), but that’s not the only reason to visit. The repertoire of ‘European soul food’ changes constantly, but you can count on getting elegant takes on French and English classics. Think duck livers and sautéed spinach on toast, posh fish finger sandwiches, and Eccles cakes.

PHOTOGRAPHY ORTEGA FISH SHACK, ARO VALLEY, FIELD & GREEN

DIVE INTO DINNER

It’s not often locals and TripAdvisor reviewers agree on a city’s best restaurant, but with Ortega Fish Shack the vote is unanimous. The slick seafoodfocused menu could belong to a much fussier fine-dining establishment, but instead they’ve kept things casual with a Mediterranean seaside-taverna vibe. Add one of the city’s best wine lists (including some amazing sherries) and staff who go out of their way to spoil you, and it’s easy to see why Ortega has earned so many fans.

Over in Newtown, Cicio Cacio Osteria is exactly the sort

of place you hope to stumble across on a cold winter’s night.

Low ceilings, a roaring open fire and wood panelling lend the place a cosy, Alpine chalet vibe; authentic Italian cuisine and wine by the tumbler seal the deal. The menu changes so regularly they don’t even print one out, but you’re always safe in the hands of chef Giulio Ricatti (previously of Ombra).

One of the city’s latest and greatest additions is Rita, a tiny restaurant with just 28 seats in Aro Valley. Chef Kelda Hains, co-owner of Nikau Café, is at the helm, and she changes the three-course set menu daily according to what’s in season.

Dining here is like going to a brilliant cook’s house for a dinner party — you don’t get to choose what you eat, but you always know it’s going to be good. Bookings are essential.

Finally, for a cheap and cheerful night out, Wellington has a glut of excellent Malaysian eateries dotted around the city centre. Some locals are loyal to KK Malaysian Restaurant, others swear by Little Penang. My top pick is Rasa, just off Cuba Street, which serves South Indian and Malaysian dishes in a warm and friendly setting. Go for masala dosai and beef rendang.

71

HAVE A BEER

you can count on getting elegant takes on French and English classics

Visiting Wellington and not drinking beer would be like going to a baseball game and not having a hot dog. There are so many breweries, brew pubs and beer bars crammed into the self-styled ‘craft beer capital’, you’d have to go out of your way to avoid them.

Dedicated beer tourists can download a trail map of the city’s best beer spots from craftbeercapital.com, but if you only have time to visit one bar make it Golding’s Free Dive.

Inspired by American dive bars, this Leeds Street gem is a cosy nook of coloured fairy lights, Star Wars memorabilia, comfortable leather stools and well-chosen tap brews. Got time for one more? Head to Hashigo Zake on Taranaki Street for adventurous, high-octane beers imported from the US, Japan and beyond.

Explore I WELLINGTON

Fresh from the tank

72

you can stop by for free tastings and a chinwag

TOP TO BOTTOM: On tap at Garage Project, Choice brews at HUSK, leave room for cookies at Leeds Street Bakery.

cellar to grab some takeaways and a T-shirt to take home as souvenirs.

STILL GOT SPACE?

Head to the Hannah Factory Laneway precinct (entrance from either Courtney Place or Leeds Street) for a tour of some of Wellington’s favourite artisan producers. Pop into the Wellington Chocolate Factory for a cup of rich, silky hot chocolate, Fix & Fogg for toast topped with the best peanut butter you’ve ever had and the Leeds Street Bakery for salted caramel cookies.

At this point, it’s definitely time to pull out the stretch pants.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Wellington from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY GARAGE PROJECT, HUSK / CHOICE BROS, LEEDS STREET BAKERY

If it’s beer fresh from the brewery tanks you’re after, you have plenty of options.

Down a graffiti-covered alley off Ghuznee Street, HUSK is the home of Choice Bros brewery as well as an all-day eatery, roastery and bar – try the confit duck burger washed down with a raspberry and lime sour ale and thank me later. Another of the city’s best breweries, Parrotdog, recently opened a cool little cellar door-takeaway shop in Lyall Bay. It’s not a licensed bar, but you can stop by for free tastings and a chinwag and leave with a flagon of your favourite drop.

Of course, the undisputed darling of the city’s beer scene is Garage Project. Equally beloved for their boundarypushing, mad-science creations as their crowd-pleasing lagers and hoppy ales, they have a cellar door at the brewery and a lovely little bar to cater for their legions of fans. The two premises are located within a stone’s throw of each other on Aro Street, so hit the bar first, then wander down to the

Explore I NEW ZEALAND

Just woke up to this

74

Explore I NEW ZEALAND

AUCKLAND

WELLINGTON

75

PHOTOGRAPHY STEFAN HOWARTH

On the road Forget mini bars and pillow menus – some of New Zealand’s best stays are found under the stars WORDS NAOMI ARNOLD

Explore I NEW ZEALAND

W

hether you’ve got a week or six months, camping is the best way to explore New Zealand. It can be astoundingly cheap – just a few dollars a night – and lots of fun as you explore the idiosyncracies of small-town life.

76

New Zealand’s love of the outdoors lifestyle means there is a site to suit any camper. And spring is the perfect time to go camping – it’s warming up, but still outside of the main summer holiday period of mid-December to mid-January, when it seems the whole country shuts down and heads for the beach. If you’re after camping amenities that are guaranteed to be decent – cabins, shower and toilet blocks, kids’ entertainment, pools, kitchens, a TV lounge, laundry – try choosing one of the Top 10 Holiday Park’s sites. They’re consistently clean, great value and ideal for kids.

Take your pick of 46 parks, each split into three levels of luxury: Premium, Superior and Classic.

If you’re not averse to roughing it a little more, the Department of Conservation (DOC) manages more than 200 sites across the country, usually in very scenic places, for as little as $8 a night – some are even free. It’s wise to book DOC campsites ahead of time to avoid disappointment. Phone the local DOC office, or check the website for availability and bookings before you venture forth.

If you’re considering freedom camping, it’s worth treading carefully. Freedom campers have become a problem in some parts of New Zealand due to visitor abuse, and are barely tolerated at a few

popular sites. If you don’t have a toilet, wastewater and rubbish facilities aboard, you’ll need to check each region’s local council website to see if there are any dedicated spots to park up free, otherwise you might be moved on. There are also 80 i-Site Visitor Centres across New Zealand where you can make bookings and enquiries.

When you do camp for free, don’t repeat the sins of past campers by washing clothes in rivers, leaving toilet waste and rubbish, destroying native bush, and lighting fires where they shouldn’t be lit. Useful apps to consult when you arrive in a new region include WikiCamps, CamperMate, Rankers Camping NZ, and Freedom Camping NZ, which feature reviews and note local attractions and amenities, such as supermarkets and quality free WiFi. They also let you filter through different campsites according to your preferences.

Roads less travelled You don’t need to head far in any direction in the Land of the Long White Cloud to stumble upon a stunning campsite.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Cosy comfort at Fitzroy Beach Holiday Park, a walk-in walk-out DOC camp in Nelson Lakes National Park, right at home in Otamure Bay, Hahei Holiday Park from on high.

PHOTOGRAPHY FITZROY BEACH HOLIDAY PARK, ALAMY, HAHEI HOLIDAY PARK

Choose your camp

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You don’t need to head far in any direction in to stumble upon a stunning campsite

That fresh mountain air

If you’re flying into Auckland, go north first. With beautiful beaches and some of the warmest temperatures in the country, the Northland region is dotted with prime coastal camping spots. Try DOC’s Otamure Bay (Whananaki) Campsite, $13 per adult per night.

It has a rural feel with large, shady pōhutukawa trees – New Zealand’s native Christmas tree – and beachfront access to bright blue water. Other top Northland DOC picks are Maitai Bay and Rarawa Beach campsites near Kaitaia for beautiful white sands, and Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) at the very tip of the North Island, with its wide, white sweep of sand and famous surf break. There is also freedom camping in the area, along the Te Paki Coastal Track.

Heading south, the Coromandel Peninsula has excellent camping.

Try one of the DOC campsites in the Kauaeranga Valley, which has several amazing river swimming spots. Hahei Holiday Resort is right on a pink- and white-sand beach, with the famous Cathedral Cove rock formations a short walk away.

You don’t need to drive far to get to Hot Water Beach, where thermal water bubbles through the sand for two hours either side of low tide.

You can even hire a spade and dig your own spa.

Out on the far west of New Zealand’s North Island, New Plymouth is a groovy little city with excellent surfing, coffee, scenery, and food. Try Fitzroy Beach Holiday Park, on the beach and next to the city, too.

Southern charms If you’re driving from the North to South Islands, you’ll probably take the ferry over Cook Strait from

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CLOCKWISE: Discover small-town life on the road, soak up the Marlborough Sounds, chase waterfalls up the Maitai River.

you can go whale-watching and eat freshly landed seafood Kaikoura, leaving the coastal town virtually inaccessible for an entire summer season. It’s fixed now, and there’s permitted freedom camping at Meatworks Beachfront, a popular surf stop about 15km from the town.

Jackson’s Retreat Alpine Holiday Park, near Arthur’s Pass on the

drive from Christchurch to the West Coast has glowworms nearby as well as fishing, skiing and tramping, all set in a stunning alpine valley. Stop off on your way from Christchurch to the West Coast, the latter of which is a really rewarding area to explore by camper. The wild seas and windswept, driftwood-strewn beaches of New Zealand’s western flanks make for dramatic sunsets and bracing evening strolls.

Go north of Westport on the West Coast and explore the lesstravelled areas of Karamea,

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, CHRISTCHURCHNZ.COM

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Wellington, but don’t hurry off as soon as you get to Picton. Take a few days to enjoy the Marlborough Sounds, which have the drowsy feel of a permanent holiday destination. Elaine Bay (DOC) has friendly stingrays and beautiful sunrises, and fellow DOC campsite Marfells Beach, near where 2016 Dreamworks film The Light Between Oceans was shot, has more incredible scenery and walks.

From Picton, you can turn west and drive to the arty, sunny, secluded city of Nelson, where you’ll find the Maitai Valley Motor Camp with spacious sites under mature trees. The Maitai River is great for swimming, and there are plentiful walking tracks in the area.

From Nelson, you can then drive to the West Coast (more on that later) or through the Lewis Pass to Christchurch; break up the trip with a stop at Hanmer Springs Top 10 Holiday Park. It’s highly rated and a great spot to park up for a few days and enjoy the springs, walking and cycling in the area.

If you head south from Picton, stop in at Kaikoura, where you can go whale-watching and eat freshly landed seafood. The 7.8-magnitude earthquake of 2016 destroyed State Highway 1 from Blenheim to

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Stars in our eyes

CLOCKWISE: Admire NZ’s 'darkest skies' in Tekapo, Te Anau Holiday Park, treats from Fairlie Bakehouse.

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there’s always somewhere new to make your home for the night In South Canterbury, Fairlie Holiday Park is set among mature trees and features plenty of space.

Fairlie is a cute town – don’t miss the Fairlie Bakehouse for a truly spectacular savoury pie, or the famous local custard squares.

Another great option in the region is Lake Tekapo Motels and Holiday Park, a pristine setting on the edge of an icy-blue lake. It’s right next to Tekapo Springs and Earth & Sky, which offers observatory and stargazing tours of some of New Zealand’s darkest skies.

In the deep south, Curio Bay Camping Ground is a beachfront spot where you can roll out of bed and go for a swim with rare Hector’s dolphins, if you’re lucky.

Wanaka has a plethora of beautiful lakeside camping options with some of the most stunning scenery

you’ll ever encounter from a tent, and Te Anau Holiday Park is a family favourite with hot spas overlooking steep mountain ranges.

As a five-star, Premium Top 10 Holiday Park, it’s one of the fancier holiday parks you’ll encounter in New Zealand. That’s the best thing about camping – there’s always somewhere new to make your home for the night. doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation top10.co.nz

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares across New Zealand.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHYJULIAN APSE, TE ANAU HOLIDAY PARK, FAIRLIE BAKEHOUSE

Granity, Oparara, and Mokihinui, which has two beautiful campgrounds on opposite sides of the Mokihinui River. But don’t forget the insect repellent! Biting sandflies are particularly eager on the West Coast; Māori legend tells that the god Tu-te-raki-whanoa had just finished carving the rough landscape of Fiordland when the underworld goddess Hine-nui-tepō feared visitors would find it so beautiful that they would never leave. So she released sandflies to get them moving again.

Explore I ACTIVE NZ

Choose your adventure Find an activity to suit your speed in the Land of the Long White Cloud WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

Put me on ice

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GLACIER HIKING The wild west coast of the South Island is NZ’s Glacier Country. An easy drive from each other, Fox and Franz Josef are two of the most accessible. Visitors can take a self-guided walk right up to the foot of the floes on the valley floors, while guided hikes will let you clamber onto the ice under careful supervision. A heli-hike is the ultimate adventure, whisking guests up to the top of the glacier for a scenic stroll. glaciercountry.co.nz

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KAYAKING Low-impact kayaks are perfect for forging NZ’s pristine waters. Meet Whanganui River – the first natural resource in the world to gain legal personhood – on the Whanganui Journey.

This waterbound ‘Great Walk’ charts calm waters flanked by forest and mossy valleys. doc.govt.nz/ whanganuijourney

CYCLING New Zealand’s Cycle Trail, or Nga Haerenga, encompasses 23 cycling routes over 2500km of trails. Take in some of the South Island’s most spectacular scenery on the Alps 2 Ocean.

The longest continuous ride in NZ, this trail descends from Aoraki Mt Cook through some 300km of jaw-dropping mountainous terrain to Oamaru on the Pacific coast. nzcycletrail.com

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, MILES HOLDEN, OCEAN BELCHER, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

FISHING Try out your fly-fishing skills on the Central Plateau of the North Island, where wild rainbow trout lurk in crystalline streams, rivers and lakes. Lake Taupo and the Tongariro River are legendary angling hotspots.

A number of local lodges cater to keen anglers, with hiking and helicopter tours of the back country revealing sun-dappled streams hemmed in by ferns.

Explore I ACTIVE NZ

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SURFING With no part of the country further than 130km from the coast, NZ offers plenty of waves to go around. Since featuring in the cult 1966 surf flick Endless Summer, Raglan has remained the country’s most iconic surf spot. Newbies should hit Ngarunui Beach, leaving Indicators and Whale Bay to the pros. A number of surf schools offer beginner and private lessons, plus surf camps. raglan.net.nz

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SKYDIVING Home of the bungy, Shotover Jet and many more high-octane thrills, Queenstown is NZ’s undisputed adventure hub.

Huddled into the Southern Alps, it’s also a very scenic place from which to jump out of a plane with tandem skydiving experts NZONE. nzoneskydive.co.nz

Into the void

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TRAMPING NZ’s famed ‘tramping’ routes range from day walks through to the epic 3000km Te Araroa hike.

The nine Great Walks of NZ include iconic routes such as the Milford and Routeburn Tracks. For one of the quietest, head due south to Stewart Island.

The 32km, two- to threeday Rakiura Track hugs rugged coves and plunges through dense forest. doc.govt.nz/greatwalks

CAVING The deepest reaches of some of NZ’s caves are still yet to be plumbed.

Luckily, Waitomo Caves, near Hamilton, offers an array of experiences in a cavernous underground world. The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co. pioneered dark-rapid riding 31 years ago, and its tubing trips in glow worm-studded Ruakuri Cave remain one of the area’s most popular excursions. Waitomo Adventures offers a range of spelunking adventures, such as the epic Lost World tours, which start with a 100m abseil into the abyss. waitomo.com waitomo.co.nz

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares across New Zealand and car-hire packages.

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Language Touring Available

Maximum

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People

Explore I ULURU

AT HEART

Millions have been drawn to the heart of the Australian outback by an ancient, iconic rock WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

PHOTOGRAPHY OSCAR NILSSON

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Brisbane takes off

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Jetstar’s direct flights between Brisbane and Uluru take to the skies this month.

rom afar, it seems like a matter of geography – a big red rock marooned in a big red ocean of sand.

But such rationalism fails when your feet are planted in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

It is that sand, blazing grains that permeate shoes and clothing to leave a blushing stain, and Uluru and Kata Tjuta, their hulking silhouettes changing with every new light and angle. But it’s also the never-ending desert horizon; the daily spectacle of sunrise and sunset; the nightly splendour of stars. This landscape, so deceptively simple from a distance, grips you and does not let go.

There are many ways to experience Uluru-Kata Tjuta. You can circumnavigate Uluru by foot, bus or even camel, if you wish.

Dining becomes a lesson in bush tucker, elevated to fine dining under an open sky. There is art – modern and ancient – and the world’s oldest living culture to be absorbed. Whether it is your first or 10th trip to the outback, there are countless new ways to come at this age-old landscape.

Ancient rock, new life Uluru has long jostled with the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Great Barrier Reef for top spot as Australia’s defining icon. But back when it was known as Ayers Rock, this environment was not appreciated for much more than its novelty value.

Right up until the ’70s, the base of Uluru was crowded with accommodation and an airstrip.

Introduced pests and fires made worse by a ban on traditional burn-offs had wiped out native creatures such as the sacred mala wallaby. But the tide turned when

the national park was formed, then officially handed back to the Anangu people in 1985. Under the joint care of the Anangu and Parks Australia, better management is helping ensure Uluru-Kata Tjuta stays in shape to wow future generations. The complete ban on climbing the rock as of October 2019 is another step in the journey. Even the mala are being reintroduced.

Since the Indigenous Land Corporation acquired Voyages Ayers Rock Resort in 2011, the facilities have been transformed and an innovative Indigenous trainee program opened to young people nationwide.

Accommodation ranges from swags under the stars at Ayers Rock Campground (from $43 per night), through to the five-star Sails in the

PHOTOGRAPHY VOYAGES INDIGENOUS TOURISM AUSTRALIA, MICHAEL NELSON / PARKS AUSTRALIA, LISA EVANS / ULURU CAMEL TOURS

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Dining desert style

circumnavigate Uluru by foot, bus or even camel

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Fine dining in the dunes with Tali Wiru, desert blooms, exploring by camel.

Desert and safari-style ‘tents’ at uber-luxe Longitude 131. Visitors can choose from tours fit for any budget, along with free daily activities around Ayers Rock Resort. Night owls take note – a few pre-dawn wake-ups are a necessary sacrifice.

Following songlines With scorching summer days and freezing winter nights, the national park is a fierce environment, but it pulses with life. The landscape is a patchwork of feathery spinifex, stately desert oaks and shrubs that burst with wildflowers in spring. It’s home

to hundreds of plant and bird species, and dozens of mammals and reptiles. But it is also alive with Anangu culture. This wealth is why it’s one of only four places in Australia to hold a dual World Heritage listing for cultural and natural value.

Transported pre-dawn to a dune with views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta, guests on Voyages’ Desert Awakenings tour are gently coaxed to alertness with coffee, damper, and bacon and egg rolls as the first streaks of dawn scud across the sky. As Uluru brightens from dark blue to rusty brown, the tour moves into the park proper for a close-up. The monolith’s scale impresses the closer you get, rising taller than the Eiffel Tower and measuring more than 9km around.

The national park sits at the intersection of songlines (iwara) stretching from the Top End to South Australia, and the footprints of Tjukuritja (ancestors) can be traced across the very face of Uluru. What outsiders are permitted to know of Tjukurpa, the belief system underpinning Anangu society, is only scraps of a vast cultural cannon, but a few precious stories are shared with visitors to the rock.

At the semi-permanent Mutitjulu waterhole, guides point out the marks where the python woman Kuniya avenged the death of her nephew at the hand of the poisonous snake, Liru. As the bus circumnavigates Uluru, more stories are revealed, as told by spirits of the blue-tongue lizard, emu, bellbird and others. The final stop is the Cultural Centre, where displays, galleries and live demonstrations help bridge the knowledge gap between visitors and custodians.

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all eyes turn to the star-studded sky Feasting under the stars

TOP TO BOTTOM: Sounds of Silence is an iconic Aussie dining event, beautiful bush tucker at Tali Wiru, the Milky Way takes on new meaning in the outback.

far – think pressed wallaby paired with fermented quandong and a Mornington pinot noir, or an ‘Aussie Pav’ with a sprinkling of green ants.

After the main course, lamps are extinguished, and all eyes turn to the star-studded sky. First a star guide leads a Western reading of Greek constellations and zodiac figures, before turning to an older understanding. Thought to be the first civilisation to practice astronomy, Indigenous tribes across Australia read different stories in the sky. Under a laser

pointer, Orion’s Belt becomes the canoe ridden by the Yolngu’s three kingfisher brothers, and the Southern Cross the Ngarrindjeri people’s stingray. The Milky Way is revealed as a river for the souls of the dead. The departed row up in a canoe; the empty vessel they push back to earth for the next passenger becomes one of the many shooting stars blazing across the night sky.

PHOTOGRAPHY VOYAGES INDIGENOUS TOURISM AUSTRALIA, SEAN SCOTT / TOURISM NT

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As part of an ongoing commitment to education, Voyages has developed the Bush Tucker Journeys program. Guests can join the Garden Walk to learn how the desert has sustained generations, and discover food and medicines hiding in the resort gardens. They can then back it up with the Bush Food Experience to nibble on some tucker and try cooking with native ingredients.

But the quandong on the top of Bush Tucker Journeys happens at dinnertime. Inducted into the Australian Tourism Hall of Fame, Sounds of Silence was the first experience of its kind in the country when it began 25 years ago.

Proceedings start at sunset with nibbles on a dune facing Uluru, to the pulsing soundtrack of a yidaki (didgeridoo), culminating in a three-course buffet featuring dishes such as Warrigal greens risoni, lamb with bush tomato jus, and desert lime cheesecake. Fed and content, visitors are then treated to a star talk given by in-house experts.

If Sounds of Silence whets your appetite for desert-inspired dining, it’s worth adding Tali Wiru to the bucket list. Limited to 20 diners, run between March and October, this exclusive feast takes place atop a remote dune overlooking Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Sunset Champagne and canapes – such as crocodile bao with tart Davidson plum, or scallop with finger lime – leads into a four-course degustation crafted in an open-sided bush kitchen.

Executive chef Vanessa Grace has embraced the bitter, salty and sour flavour profiles of native edibles and matched them with fine ingredients sourced from near and

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Snag a souvenir

Desert adventures EXPLORE BY CAMEL-BACK After the beasts of burden were introduced by Afghan traders in the 19th century, Australia became home to the world’s biggest population of wild camels. Discover the charming side of these creatures with Uluru Camel Tours, which retrains feral camels to hump tourists around the desert on their popular voyages. ulurucameltours.com.au

Art of the outback Along with stories passed down, the culture of the outback has survived through art. The most ancient can be spotted in sheltered alcoves around Uluru, where daubed paintings and handprints have been dated back at least 5000 years. More ephemeral artwork, traditionally painted on natural materials, the skin or in the sand, found new permanence when artists took to canvas and paint.

The Wintjiri Arts and Museum in the resort village exhibits and sells contemporary and traditional art by local artists, the complex patterns communicating to those that can read them stories or practical knowledge of hunting routes and waterholes.

The severe beauty of the environment has also inspired one of Australia’s most high-profile contemporary installations. On a visit in the ’90s, British artist Bruce Munro was left with a vision of

lights blooming from the desert. In 2016, he was invited back to bring his vision to life. For the resulting work, Field of Light, Bruce planted 50,000 glowing stems, attached by illuminated arteries of cabling over 49,000 square metres of desert. So popular, its original 2017 end date has been extended until 2020.

Pre-dawn tours set out from Ayers Rock Resort in utter darkness, arriving at an undulating field of colour. The stalks shift between the colour wheel, seeming to bleed into the starry horizon on the fringes.

As the sun creeps higher, and Uluru materialises in the near distance, the colours slowly fade until they are nothing more than pale alien plants in the spinifex and red sand.

The other-worldly quality of the Field of Light is an apt response to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

Ever shifting and elemental, this ancient landscape at the heart of Australia has so much more to it than a big old rock.

WALK THE OLGAS Set aside time for a day hike through Kata Tjuta (formerly known as the Olgas). The shorter Walpa Gorge walk leads to a calm oasis, but the longer Valley of the Winds circuit is worth following to hidden pockets between the 36 domes of Kata Tjuta, with paths skirting sacred sites so you’ll never step foot where you’re not welcome.

SKY-HIGH SCENES If a glimpse of Uluru out of the plane window leaves you wanting more, a scenic flight over the park is a worthwhile splurge. Options range from an eight-minute ‘express flight’ (from $95 per person), through to tandem skydiving at sunset, and are sure to leave you with memories to last a lifetime. ayersrockresort.com.au/experiences

Travel info Jetstar has great fares to Uluru Ayers Rock from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, WINTJIRI ARTS AND MUSEUM

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· Food court open from (10am for the food court) for the best priced food in town · Night Markets Open from (4:30pm to 11pm) · Car parking upstairs above Night Markets $1.00 per hr · Approximately 2.5 million people visit the Cairns Night Markets each year · Come and see an amazing mix of 70 retail market stalls offering everything from a massage, haircut or delicious Chinese self-serve food · Tour groups welcome

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Port Stephens Sydney

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PHOTOGRAPHY GABRIEL GRIMISON

Facing flipper Swim with dolphins on their own terms in the NSW coastal town of Port Stephens WORDS PAUL EWART

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he catamaran cuts a path through the churning ocean in the pre-dawn darkness.

Slowly, the sun rises above the horizon, transforming black, oil-like water into a deep blue. Ahead of us, emerging from the sea, we see the unmistakable splash of dorsal fins. As we draw nearer I peer over the edge and there they are: dolphins. One launches into the air, causing a ripple of applause from my fellow passengers, and soon they’re jumping on either side. I realise this is the closest I’ve ever come to them in the wild – and I’m about to get even closer.

Port Stephens – a mountainous bay more than twice the size of Sydney Harbour and encircled by subtropical rainforest – has a lot going for it: the largest sand dunes in the Southern Hemisphere, a world-record number of humpback whale sightings and some amazing bushwalks.

But one of the destination’s most unique experiences is a magical swim with wild dolphins. Dolphin Swim Australia has the only permit of its kind issued in NSW, which sees the tables turned on the usual dolphin-human encounter. Here, rather than humans choosing to swim with the playful mammals, it’s the other way around.

Friends with flippers Arriving just after 5am at Nelson Bay’s d’Albora Marinas, I board the company’s catamaran, Imagine, with some 15 other guests. After a bit of paperwork, we’re soon speeding through the waters of the bay and out through the headlands

On their turf

I lower my head beneath the surface, and there, amid the bubbles, I see dolphins. Lots of them into the pristine environment of the Port Stephens – Great Lakes Marine Park. Dolphin Swim Australia marketing manager Lesley Dutton gives me an idea of what to expect.

“We’re convinced that the dolphins have such an inquisitive nature that they come to peoplewatch as well as surf along the bow of the boat,” she says. “On a great day, which is very common, the dolphins will hang around and wait for each new group of people

to enter the water and we keep rotating the groups until either the dolphins get bored and take off, or we run out of time.”

In short, curiosity drives them – not bait. The company is only permitted to swim with two species of dolphin: the oceanic bottlenose and the short-beaked common dolphin.

“All species of dolphins enjoy playing games, but the one game that we most often witness is a kind of underwater football,” says

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PHOTOGRAPHY GABRIEL GRIMISON, DESTINATION PORT STEPHENS, DOLPHIN SWIM AUSTRALIA, LISA SKELTON

Lesley. “The dolphins hold a piece of seaweed on either their rostrum (nose) or pectoral (side) fin and pass it to one another.

“There have been numerous occasions where dolphins have positioned themselves in front of the swimmers ‘holding’ a piece of seaweed and then let it go and many swimmers have caught it as it has come towards them,” she says laughing. “It’s an incredible thing to witness.”

The prospect of an underwater game of football with Flipper and co. snaps me out of my sleepy haze and by the time we encounter our first pod, I’m buzzing.

Into the wild

PICTURED: The Port Stephens coast.

ABOVE: Oceanic encounters with Dolphin Swim Australia.

I watch as my fellow swimmers, decked out in wetsuits, masks, snorkels and safety harnesses, make their way into a net at the front of Imagine – and then it’s my turn. Our dive-master gives us the thumbs-up and we plunge into the water.

Spinning around and grabbing the rope stretched between the boat’s twin bows, I’m gently pulled along. I lower my head beneath the surface and there, amid the bubbles, I see dolphins. Lots of them.

At arms-length we’re surrounded by these playful swimmers.

Looking to my left I catch the eye of a bottlenose swimming next to me; he’s seemingly beaming at me. The effect is ethereal, and his apparent happiness contagious.

I settle into a comfortable rhythm, my arms outstretched as I’m dragged along. It’s around this time that I also hear the clicks – the echolocation used by my

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Into the blue

Admire dolphins in their natural habitat. BELOW: Watch pods of dolphins from above, as well as underwater.

PHOTOGRAPHY DOLPHIN SWIM AUSTRALIA

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newfound swimming buddies as they jostle for position and zigzag around us. The experience is as far away from a Sea World or Disneyesque encounter as you can get.

As others climb back on board, I linger off the stern, sneaking glances underwater to extend my experience for as long as possible.

I’m told by Lesley that many swimmers are brought to tears by the experience and I can believe it. After all, humans have long attributed divine qualities to these mysterious mammals.

In some ancient societies, dolphins were believed to be messengers of the gods and killing one was deemed a crime punishable by death. Myths speak of them as ‘humans from the sea’ and tales of them saving people from drowning and sharks abound. To this day, dolphins are still revered by sailors as a sign of good fortune.

many swimmers are brought to tears by the experience Perhaps part of the rationale behind our fascination with these marine creatures are the similarities between us. Dolphins are also thought to have evolved from a land-based ancestor, the difference

being that some 50 million years ago their forebears went back to the sea, while ours stayed on land. They breathe air, they’re believed to ‘laugh’, they’re highly social, and studies continue into their highly developed communication techniques.

Anyone who has seen or swum with them in the wild will testify to their curiosity and intelligence, yet the majority of people who see these creatures today will watch them in captivity performing tricks in exchange for fish scraps.

Organic encounters When you swim with dolphins in the wild everything is natural, which means nothing is certain.

“Being a wild animal experience, it is impossible to guarantee swimming, or even seeing, dolphins at all. Every day in the marine park is different and the dolphins are never in the same place,” Lesley explains.

Explore I PORT STEPHENS

Port Stephens travel info STAY Marty’s @ Little Beach Stay a stone’s throw from Nelson Bay in this cluster of self-contained apartments nestled between two of the town’s prettiest beaches. martys.net.au

DO Irukandji Shark & Ray Encounters Don a wetsuit and enter the water to feed and handle giant stingrays and huge tawny nurse sharks. sharkencounters.com.au

EAT Little Beach Boathouse Enjoy picture-postcard water views while dining on delectable, locally caught seafood. littlebeachboathouse.com.au

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Newcastle and car-hire packages.

PICTURED: The Port Stephens coastline. ABOVE: Onboard Dolphin Swim Australia’s catamaran.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION PORT STEPHENS, DOLPHIN SWIM AUSTRALIA

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“We record GPS coordinates every time we get people in the water, but it really just depends on what the dolphins are doing on the day. We can have one extreme or the other – two dolphins one day and then a superpod, literally hundreds, the next. Saying that, we do have a very high success rate. We haven’t done the stats for the season just finished, but the season before showed a success rate of 95.6 per cent of customers interacting with dolphins in the water.”

While getting wet obviously gets you as close as possible, you don’t need to take the plunge to get your dolphin fix. The view of dolphins from above the water is pretty unparalleled. The catamaran’s deck is only a few metres above the water, so all guests – whether swimmers or observers – are able to admire them from close proximity.

By 10am, wearing a wide smile to rival that of any dolphin, we head back to shore. With a hot drink in one hand and a certificate confirming my swim in the other, I reflect on my encounter. Swimming with dolphins tops most bucket lists, but swimming with dolphins in the wild is truly a different experience. One that I’m already eager to repeat.

We’ve got all the insider info to make your trip to Port Douglas even more amazing.

Visit our site and follow us to uncover the very best of Port Douglas!

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THE WAY OF WHERE TO DINE, DRINK AND PLAY IN THE EVER-EVOLVING WESTERN AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL WORDS FLEUR BAINGER

WESTERN AUSTRALIA I PERTH

Playing my song

PHOTOGRAPHY REBECCA MANSELL, SHOT BY THOM, HIBERNIAN PLACE, DANICA ZUKS, GRAND ORIENT / MELBOURNE HOTEL

WESTERN

Perth continues to AUSTRALIA surprise with its constant metamorphosis: first beach Perth babe, then bar-hopping party hound and now, sophisticated cosmopolite. illuminate the chic space.

Across the city, glitzy “Perth has certainly evolved new precincts are emerging, in recent years, the hospitality heritage buildings are scene especially,” says Guy. being renewed and walls “The locals are so friendly and of curated street art are welcoming, and the produce is appearing. Modern Perth some of the best in the world, looks nothing like the city so when the opportunity arose that used to crown the West. to open a venue there, it was a WA’s capital has pretty quick yes.” undergone a seismic shift Rooftop bar Hadiqa is a short over the past decade, but stroll away. It’s a Moroccan there are no signs of slowing. haven cloaked in ornately The new way seems to be decorated tiles, patterned blue one of reinvention, with cushions, atmospheric lighting the city’s mining past in the and leafy, green ceilings. rear-view mirror. A lively new “It’s somewhere you visit and pedestrian zone unlocks the completely forget that you’re heart of the city; a once-dark in Perth,” says Andy Freeman, corner is transformed into a who is behind several top hip social centre. There are small bars. He says Hibernian more new watering holes and Place is like water to a socially eateries, and a village-feel parched area. inner-city neighbourhood “So far the response has that keeps adding layers. been overwhelming. There is such population density within 200 metres – some 20,000 people work and live Garum by Guy Grossi is here – and they have long been perhaps the biggest name in a starved of good options. Plus, bevy of heavy-hitters to have it’s only a seven-minute walk opened in Hibernian Place. from our other CBD venues.”

The new east-end precinct is Offshoot Coffee also arrived a stone’s throw from the city in the area in May and all-day centre, in an unlikely concrete eatery Arthur & Co in June. landscape populated by law courts and corporate buildings. Long seen as a shadowy side of the CBD, the east is now becoming an enviable destination. Since opening in April, Garum’s lofty ceilings, caramel-hued wood floors and climbing greenery have become a magnet for those chasing polished Roman dishes.

The venue leverages the historic bones of Hibernian Hall – which opened in 1902 – and tall, arched windows

THE EASTERN REVOLUTION

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THE NEW CITY HUB

Perth’s train lines cut through the CBD, separating it from gritty sister suburb Northbridge. In March, after more than 100 years of division, a stretch sewing the two back together opened to the public. Yagan Square is a pedestrian precinct that looks into the past, to a time when the reedy land was a meeting place for Aboriginal people. Reminders of the former hunting and gathering grounds are woven into the architecture, wildflower gardens and a slender, ninemetre-tall statue titled Wirin.

The culture of coming together, eating and talking is echoed in the square’s Market Hall. The covered venue packs in shoeboxsized eateries doling out bliss bowls, burgers, yakitori (skewered and grilled meats) and pasta, plus the almosttoo-pretty-to-eat handmade chocolates by Sue Lewis Chocolatier. New additions continue to arrive, with clean-eating outfit Primal Pantry landing in May, and Shy John Brewery, complete with dim sum, in July. Farm-

to-plate eatery Ficus is due to open soon too.

Open-air community events are further establishing Yagan Square as a local hub. The artisan-goods treasure trove Perth Makers Market will kick off come twilight on 24 August, while the September school holidays will see kids rush between cooking classes, face painting and a rooftop playground.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Perth Makers Market lights up, the daily grind at Offshoot Coffee, newcomer Primal Pantry, new city hub Yagan Square.

PHOTOGRAPHY METROPOLITAN REDEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY, PRIMAL PANTRY, DANICA ZUKS

The zone is anchored by the new Westin Hotel, which holds the Bodhi J Wellness Spa. Further along is the riverside sibling of Bali-born bar-restaurant Ku De Ta, now almost 18 months old.

Across the water is Perth’s $1.6 billion sports arena, Optus Stadium, open since January. As of June, the stadium became accessible to pedestrians and cyclists coming from the east end with the opening of the Matagarup Bridge over the Swan River.

Clean is the new Black.

#cleanbar

Explore I PERTH

Lunching Perth-style

CLOCKWISE: A big serve at Tiny’s, a regal setting for Grand Orient, catch DJ sets at QV1 hotspot Tiny’s.

WESTERN VERVE

A few minutes’ walk to the west is another emerging city sector, QV1 plaza. Smaller and crowned by a skyscraper, this long-dormant urban zone has been attracting punters since new restaurant-cum-winebar Tiny’s opened in May. Dishing up inventive fare garnished with rooftop garden goodies and live DJ sets, it was an instant hit.

Side project Tiny’s Liquor Emporium opened in June.

Unlike typical booze stores,

there is a record player spinning behind the counter, more than 300 varietals of wine on the shelves and a bar for leaning on as customers request songs, sip on a cocktail or get a growler filled with craft beer.

Co-owner Paul Aron says Perth’s evolution has involved the spread of better, more interesting concepts in the more neglected east and west ends of the city. “The last few years have been tough on the hospitality industry so we are seeing people focus on what they do well and really trying to perfect it,” he says.

The buzz from Tiny’s reaches across the road to The Melbourne Hotel, which re-opened in autumn after three years and a $40 million reconstruction. The boutique accommodation is fronted by a traditional pub, which leads past the original 1897 walls to polished Cantonese restaurant Grand Orient. The view-blessed rooftop bar – the highest public watering hole in the city – remains a local secret. For now.

we are seeing people focus on what they do well and really trying to perfect it

THE HAPPENING HOOD

Even as Perth’s onceoverlooked areas emerge, the characterful inner-city neighbourhood of Leederville manages to maintain its cool reputation. Casual restaurant seating spills onto the pavement, colourful street

PHOTOGRAPHY DANICA ZUKS, GRAND ORIENT / MELBOURNE HOTEL

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Explore I PERTH

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Local haunt Kitsch, catch of the day at Kailis Bros Leederville, Thai tastes from Kitsch, find The Blue Flamingo in the storied Leederville Hotel.

art is splashed on the walls, carpark spaces are given over to parklets (public seating constructions) and independent boutiques reign supreme.

Institutions such as Urban Records and Oxford St Books remain, but there are new injections here. Queen of Leeds café has just taken up residency, thrilling coffee buffs with its bean selection and cold and filtered brews, while the recently opened Hoki Poké poké bowl window at Kailis Bros Leederville is doing a roaring trade.

A few blocks from the main café strip, local secret Kitsch restaurant has engaged a hot new chef who’s shaking up the Thai menu, while The Garden at the iconic Leederville Hotel has revamped its food line-up to focus on fresher options. The hotel, which has operated continuously for more than a century, has added a weekend-only nook, The Blue Flamingo, within its airy laneway bar. Leederville Hotel manager Jason Antczak says he’s watched the surrounding urban village flourish over the past eight

he’s watched the surrounding urban village flourish years. “Leederville’s quirky.

It’s student-y and it offers cheap and cheerful eating options, but there’s more for any gastronomy aficionado.

It can get loud and fun later in the night with clubs, bars and live music venues, and it’s funky with fashion.”

Perth being Perth, there’s plenty more still on the cards, which is what makes the far-flung city so exciting: every time you visit, there’s something new to explore.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Perth from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY SHOT BY THOM, LEEDERVILLE HOTEL, KAILIS BROS LEEDERVILLE

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winerutherglen

@winerutherglen

Explore I RUTHERGLEN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: All roads lead to Rutherglen, Mediterranean fare at Thousand Pound, grapevines dominate the tiny town, The Tower at Mount Ophir Estate, Jones Winery’s new vermouth, the fruit of Anderson Winery’s labour.

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HISTORY IN A GLASS There’s more to Rutherglen than wine, but it’s a great place to start

PHOTOGRAPHY PHOEBE POWELL, GEORGIE JAMES PHOTOGRAPHY

WORDS CHLOE CANN

Aperitif hour

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(pop. 2378) punches well above its weight when it comes to eating and, particularly, drinking – a draw referenced by the town’s tongue-in-cheek welcome sign (‘Sydney may have a nice harbour, but Rutherglen has a great port’). Among its draws are a new Aboriginal art gallery within a cellar door, vineyard glamping, some of the oldest fortified wines in the world, and perhaps the friendliest fourth, fifth and sixthgeneration family winemakers you’ll be fortunate enough to meet.

A modern infusion Former gold-mining country, the historic wine region is studded with heritage-listed buildings, including a castle-turnedwinery built by Scotsmen in 1864, and a farm and vineyard with a French provincial tower, recently converted into boutique accommodation. The latter, Mount Ophir Estate, was erected in 1891. By the early 1900s it was the largest state-of-

there’s nothing but olive trees, eucalypts and fields as far as the eye can see

PHOTOGRAPHY PHOEBE POWELL, GEORGIE JAMES PHOTOGRAPHY, THOUSAND POUND WINE BAR & STORE

D

“

on’t look down,” warns our instructor as we limber up on mats, expelling small clouds of cold air as we exhale, kookaburras cackling in the background. Marooned on rubber islands, we are surrounded by a sea of dark pebbles.

Sheep poo isn’t ordinarily an occupational hazard for yoga teachers.

But then again, this is no ordinary yoga lesson.

Set amid the gently undulating hills of familyowned and operated Rutherglen winery John Gehrig, my drishti (or focal point) is yellowing vines, and during my urdhva vrikshasana (upward salute pose), I see nothing but infinite blue and wispy white trails fleeting thousands of feet above my fingertips, the early sun’s rays grazing my forehead.

This ‘Yoga, Bubbles, Brekkie Bliss’ event is part of the annual High Country Harvest Festival – a two-week autumnal celebration of all things food, wine, beer and, most importantly, local. It’s a great showcase for the destination’s many edible treasures, but far from the only reason (or season) to visit the north-eastern Victorian region.

Home to more than 20 wineries, tiny Rutherglen

Perfectly plated

Explore I RUTHERGLEN

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Eat, drink and be merry at Thousand Pound Wine Bar, wine is the hero at Thousand Pound, old and new in harmony at Mount Ophir Estate, Rutherglen’s fortunes grow on the vine, seasonal dining at Thousand Pound.

the-art wine-producing complex in the Southern Hemisphere. Operations ceased in 1955, but, as of May last year, parts of the complex have begun reopening in fits and starts – a winemaker’s cottage here, a gatehouse there – as private luxury rentals.

From the windows of the three-storey tower, my lodgings for the night, there’s nothing but olive trees, eucalypts and fields as far as the eye can see.

But it’s easy to neglect the idyllic pastoral views given the tower’s interior – a near-faultless marriage of old and new. The white walls give a modern, minimalist air, but are met with Art Deco-style textured wallpaper. The furnishings – in a demure palette of dove grey and

navy blue, and made from pure linen, velvet, marble and wood – lend a Scandichic feel, though the rooms are scattered with antique curios, such as a midcentury typewriter. It’s a light-filled sanctuary that’s been sensitively restored, yet oozes character.

The work of local siblings, the Browns – the fourth-generation wine family behind All Saints Estate – Mount Ophir is not the only spot in Rutherglen to gain a stylish, contemporary injection. The family has also turned its attention to the town’s high street, planting a cosy wine bar that wouldn’t look out of place in a Melbourne laneway in its navel.

Housed in an original Victorian storefront, stools line the white-tiled bar counter of Thousand Pound Wine Bar & Store. In the main dining room bare bulbs hang over broad, timber communal tables, next to floor-to-ceiling wire racks stacked with wine.

Purveyors of regional drops, Thousand Pound offers small, family-run businesses from near and far pride of place on the menu; there’s even a special key (‘FO’ for familyowned) to denote such outfits. The food is a study in relaxed, Mediterraneanstyle dining, pieced together with local ingredients.

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Explore I RUTHERGLEN

PHOTOGRAPHY PHOEBE POWELL

Beyond Rutherglen red While new bars and accommodation have helped rekindle interest in Rutherglen, the region’s true essence is bottled.

Campbells, one of the 12 founding members of Australia’s First Families of Wine, is a bastion of Rutherglen’s winemaking heritage. It has remained in the Campbell family since vines were first planted here in 1868, and is noted not only for having brought wine tourism to Rutherglen, but for introducing the very concept to these shores.

“Rutherglen is credited with being the birthplace of wine tourism in Australia,” explains Prue Campbell, the winery’s manager, as we taste a flight of goldenhued, syrup-sweet muscats.

In 1967 winery co-owner and director Colin Campbell helped pull together the Rutherglen Wine Festival – said to be the first of its kind in the country. At a time when jaunts to cellar doors were uncommon, the festival drew some 5000 people to the rolling countryside. And the June long weekend festival, now known as Winery Walkabout, remains one of Australia’s biggest.

Colin’s unwavering dedication to the wine industry (from establishing the wine festival to pioneering a classification system for the region’s signature Rutherglen Muscat and chairing the

It’s a family affair Find heritage in a bottle at Campbells. INSET: Winemaking is in the blood for Howard and Christobelle of Anderson Winery.

BELOW: Harvest time at Campbells.

most comprehensive research ever undertaken on the Australian fortified wine industry) has been such that he was recently awarded with an Order of Australia Medal. And it’s thanks to the work of Colin and fellow Rutherglen winemakers that local fortifieds, once racing towards extinction, are now a major calling card.

“It puts us on the map because it’s a product we own,” explains Prue. “It’s a real speciality of ours in the world. We call the Classic Rutherglen Muscat ‘history in a glass’.”

But here lies a great deal of liquid gold beyond muscat. Durif – a spicy, deep red wine, ripe with black fruit flavours and originating from France – is a rare varietal globally and a local standout, while shiraz and whites

Almost everything is done by hand here, from pruning to picking Small wonders

increasingly bolster tasting bench wine lists. And with many of the region’s wineries plumping for small-batch production and eschewing the embrace of big name liquor stores, visiting these cellar doors may be your only chance to snap up a case and experience the distinctive charm of each.

Visiting father-daughter run Anderson Winery is like stepping foot inside a museum. Pipettes and test tubes sit on countertops, while bottle labelling machines and traditional basket presses are scattered throughout, with reams of accompanying information. Almost everything is done by hand here, from pruning to picking, with all wines made on-site.

Softly-spoken Howard Anderson, who established the winery in 1993, worked for a large label for 15 years before starting up on his own.

“I couldn’t get it out of my blood, so I bought this little bit of dirt,” he says.

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Explore I RUTHERGLEN

A change of art Uncover contemporary Aboriginal art within the cellar door at Rutherglen Estates.

The newest of Rutherglen’s restaurants, Ripe sits in a repurposed tractor shed at Buller Wines estate, with clusters of bare light bulbs dangling like supersized spiders from the ceiling. The ambitious menu navigates through Europe’s classics (think confit duck leg and beef Wellington), capitalising on fresh, seasonal produce. “We’re one of the few restaurants in north-east Victoria to source nearly 100 per cent of our vegetables from our market garden,” explains head chef Gavin Swalwell.

Buller Wines’ general manager Paul Squires neatly captures the lure of not just Buller, but Rutherglen in general. “We really work on not being snobby wine people,” he says. “We try and make wine a bit more fun.”

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne and car-hire packages.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

THREE OTHER VICTORIAN WINE REGIONS MACEDON RANGES Drive time 45 minutes from Melbourne.

Attractions The coolest grape-growing climate of any wine region on Australia’s mainland, Macedon has more than 40 vineyards on its books. The region is also home to the legend that is Hanging Rock, as well as six public golf courses, a weekly farmers’ market and plenty of bush walks.

Signature wine(s) The ‘Macedon Sparkling’, made using only locally grown pinot noir and chardonnay grapes.

GOULBURN VALLEY Drive time 1.5 hours from Melbourne.

Attractions Home to one of Australia’s most historic wineries

(Tahbilk), as well as a new boutique hotel and Aboriginal art gallery (Mitchelton), Goulburn Valley’s charms span the ages. Explore the local waterways and the Heathcote-Graytown National Park.

Signature wine(s) Known for its Rhône varietals, such as marsanne and shiraz.

PYRENEES Drive time 2.5 hours from Melbourne.

Attractions At the southern end of the Great Dividing Range, the Pyrenees has some 30 wineries located amid its rugged terrain. The region is a gateway for adventure: Mount Buangor State Park, and the Mount Cole and Pyrenees State Forests offer hiking, four-wheel driving, hang gliding, mountain bike and dirt bike riding.

Signature wine(s) Shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc.

PHOTOGRAPHY PHOEBE POWELL

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“We made the decision we weren’t going to sell [our wines] to the big companies. Most of our batches are 100 dozen to 150 dozen bottles. We’re trying to do something a little bit special.”

Rutherglen Estates is a world apart. Its new cellar door opened last November, sporting a modern, minimalist, monochrome look and feel, with clean lines and concrete floors. The red gum beams, however, offer a gentle nod to the storied space, built in 1886. And if the roll call of eminently quaffable wines wasn’t enough to steer you to its doors, the contemporary works exhibited in its new Aboriginal art gallery just might.

At brother-and-sister-run Jones Winery & Vineyard, a rustic French theme awaits. There’s a cosy, country house character to the cellar door, with its brick walls and low, bark-lined ceilings. Its wine varietals largely originate from France’s Rhône wine region, where chief winemaker Mandy Jones lived and worked for 15 years. And the restaurant honours the culinary canon of Gallic kitchens. Savour golden rectangles of pork belly that yield with a crackle, the richness offset by ribbons of radicchio; expertly pan-fried gnocchi, velvet-smooth on the inside; and beetroot pickled, roasted and pureed in startling candy shades.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY

Explore I OSAKA

A TASTE OF OSAKA

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KNOWN AS 'THE NATION'S KITCHEN', JAPAN'S SECOND CITY HAS A FLAVOUR ALL OF ITS OWN WORDS MEGAN OSBORNE

Keep your eye on the ball

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Takoyaki

s soon as you arrive in Osaka, you know it’s a city defined by food. The loud, hectic main promenade of Dōtonbori – lined with crazy, flashing neon signs – and the smoky wafts from its street food vendors are a sensory assault best experienced at night. Across the river, the streets of Shinsaibashi boast dozens of cosy izakayas and intimate dining experiences.

Unlike Tokyo, where many restaurants are hidden in the upper levels of skyscrapers, with the ground floors given over to glossy retail stores, the streets of Osaka simply speak food.

Come mealtimes, you’ll be tempted by rich smells and lured by the sight of full tables and bustling bar countertops.

Regardless of where you are or what you're craving, finding a place to eat in this city will never be a problem.

Here’s our guide to the defining dishes of Osaka.

observe as deft, chopstick-wielding chefs flip the round morsels until they’re golden brown

One of Osaka’s most iconic snacks, you’ll find takoyaki — grilled balls of pancake batter filled with minced octopus — on almost every street corner. From stalls to street-facing restaurant windows, you can often watch the moulds being filled in front of you, and observe as deft, chopstick-wielding chefs flip the round morsels until they’re golden brown. Toppings include mayonnaise, takoyaki sauce (a dark, tangy Worcestershire-like sauce), cheese, seaweed and bonito (dried tuna) flakes. Look for the giant mechanical octopus that points the way to Dōtonbori’s heavenly takoyaki restaurants.

Explore I OSAKA

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The art of takoyaki making, sample premium wagyu in the city, yakiniku is a popular style of restaurant, slurp udon to your heart's content, Osaka's favourite snack.

Yakiniku The yakiniku style of restaurant, common in Osaka, is the perfect option for meat lovers.

Cuts of beef are sliced into bite-sized portions and cooked on a charcoal grill in front of you. And given Osaka’s proximity to Kōbe and the Matsusaka region (home to two of Japan’s three Sandai Wagyu, or ‘big beefs’), premium marbled beef always lines yakiniku menus. Vegetables can also be ordered, and dipping sauces are generally provided with a meal. Visit Matsusakagyu Yakiniku M in Dōtonbori for fantastic service and that drool-worthy Matsusaka beef.

Hot stuff

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PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, MEGAN OSBORNE, FLICKR / DENNIS AMITH

Matsusakagyu Yakiniku M, 2F, Inaka kaikan Bldg. 7-17 Soemoncho, Chuo-ku, open daily for lunch and dinner.

Udon The process of creating these thick, flour-based noodles varies depending on region, producing differences in texture, size, shape, taste and mode of consumption.

Udon can be served cold or hot, with dipping sauce or broth, as well as a combination of meat and vegetables. Sanuki udon, originating from the Kagawa prefecture, are the most common with their firm, silky

texture. Kitsune udon, featuring strips of fried tofu, is a popular dish in Osaka.

It’s okay, encouraged even, to slurp when eating your udon to help regulate the temperature.

Feel free to pick up the bowl and drink the leftover broth, too. Seek smaller restaurants for tasty, handmade udon.

Restaurants, cooking schools and even Airbnb hosts offer udon-making classes in Osaka.

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Say amen to ramen

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Ramen has a cultlike following; just witness the lines of locals queuing on the street. There are four popular styles of ramen, differentiated by the preparation of the broth.

Shoyu ramen uses soy sauce, shio uses salt, miso uses fermented soybean paste and tonkotsu uses pork bones. Noodle types also vary, as do the toppings.

Popular inclusions are pork, egg, negi (small leek), bean sprouts, seaweed, fishcakes and more. Ramen noodles

it’s seen as a compliment to the chef if you manage to slurp it all up get soggy the longer they’re in the broth, so it’s wise to chow down quickly. As with udon, it’s acceptable to drink broth directly from the bowl. In fact, it’s seen as a compliment to the chef if you manage to slurp it all up. Many ramen restaurants direct you to order via a vending machine before taking a seat. The creamy, buttery and salty chicken shoyu broth at Ramen Yashichi is highly recommended, and worth a stop if you’re visiting nearby shopping destination Umeda. Just be prepared to queue.

Ramen Yashichi, 3-4-8 Toyosaki, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, 11am to 4pm weekdays.

CLOCKWISE: Customise your own bowl of ramen, a tongue-twisting dish, okonomiyaki's finishing touches, a winter warmer.

Okonomiyaki Okonomiyaki is an evolved version of a traditional pancake that originated in the Edo Period. The version you can enjoy today rose to popularity in the late 1930s in Osaka. While you should be able to find okonomiyaki across Japan (and even in cities globally), you can find it in the style of the Kansai region everywhere in Osaka.

Okonomiyaki translates to “grilled as you like it”, and is a doughy, savoury pancake made with flour, cabbage and

egg. Most places will offer other ingredients of your choice, commonly pork, octopus, mayonnaise and bonito flakes. Many places cook the pancake on a hotplate directly in front of you, before slicing it up, pizza-style.

Okonomiyaki is a quick, cheap and cheerful option. Try Okonomiyaki Kiji for fuel in between discovering the shopping malls in Umeda.

Okonomiyaki Kiji, 1-1-90 Oyodonaka, Kita-ku | B1F Umeda Sky Bldg, 11:30am to 9:30pm from Friday to Wednesday.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY

Ramen

Explore I OSAKA

Dip into the dashi

Shabu-shabu

Other Osakan highlights Other must-try food items in Osaka (and across Japan) are yakitori (grilled skewers of succulent meat – often chicken – and vegetables), kushikatsu (deep-fried skewered meat and vegetables), soba noodles, tempura and, of course, sushi and sashimi.

CLOCKWISE: All hail the hotpot, Dōtonbori is Osaka's culinary heart.

vegetables go into the bubbling pot and cook for a while

before consuming.

Shabutei Shinsaibashi offers a range of choices depending on your budget, starting at around $25, all the way to blowout Kōbe at $100. Either way, the sesame dipping sauce is divine.

Shabutei Shinsaibashi, 1-4-11 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku | Shabutei Bldg, 11am to 10.30pm daily.

Travel Info Jetstar flies direct to Osaka from Cairns, Manila and Taipei.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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While shabu-shabu is not exclusive to Osaka, there are some amazing locations in the city to discover it. Shabushabu is essentially a hotpot where you cook your meal as you go.

You’ll be provided with ingredients such as garlic, onion and ginger to flavour your dashi (broth), then offered a selection of items off a tray of raw vegetables and sliced pork or beef.

Sesame dipping sauces are popular, and it’s not uncommon to find Kōbe beef on the menu, however it will be more expensive. Some of the vegetables, such as mushrooms, can go into the bubbling pot and cook for a while, but the meat is best dipped quickly until just cooked.

Scoop cooked items and some broth into your dipping bowl and allow it to cool slightly

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PICTURED & OPPOSITE: Boulders covered in a flaming lichen are a defining feature of the Bay of Fires.

PHOTOGRAPHY LISA KUILENBURG, GETTY

INTO

Explore I BAY OF FIRES

Bay of Fires Launceston TASMANIA

THE FIRE Walk in the devil’s footsteps in Tasmania’s wild north-east WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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Explore I BAY OF FIRES

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e’re not the first ones on the beach this morning. This pale stretch of sand, blinding under a bright blue sky, bears a clear track of small cat-like paws. A solo Tasmanian devil has been cruising this cove not long before us, scavenging for scraps in kelp washed ashore. Our guide points out the distinctive oneby-two gait that betrays this little native creature.

We follow its wavering path for hundreds of metres, leaving our own footprints to be erased by wind and waves.

Walk on the wild side

PHOTOGRAPHY EWEN BELL

This corner of north-east Tasmania, roughly a two-hour drive through rolling farmland from Launceston, is considered remote for the small island state. But it’s hiding some of the country’s most incandescent coastal scenery. Here bone-white sand, so fine it squeaks underfoot, is flanked by jumbles of granite boulders coated in orange lichen and seas

Check out that view

PICTURED: Farms meet bush in Mount William National Park.

INSET: Taking in the scenes from Mount William. BELOW: Come face-to-face with the locals.

127 so turquoise they could make a Pacific atoll blush.

It’s stunning terrain, best appreciated on foot.

Walking holiday specialists Park Trek offers a four-day hike south along the coast, starting from Mount William National Park – Wukalina by its traditional name – on Tasmania’s northern tip and venturing around 60km to The Gardens at the far end of the Bay of Fires. The multi-day route is broken into a series of day walks, with transfers to and from the bucolic base of Icena Farm. With no more than day packs to carry, and navigation in the safe hands of two experienced guides, our small group is left free to soak it all in.

It’s crowded in these parts, but not with humans Hitting the beach Picked up from Launceston on day one, we’re deposited at Musselroe Bay ready to head southward. The sight of this first idyllic beach elicits a flurry of exclamations and camera shots, repeated moments later on the sand after our first brush with the devil prints.

We’re yet to know that a string of perfect beaches awaits us, and that by their end we’ll be expert trackers – sagely identifying the pinpoint claw marks of the quoll; the twisting whorl of a tiger snake; the loping

stride of a wallaby, dragging its tail when it dawdles. We learn to recognise devil scats, studded with clumps of undigested fur and the occasional claw or tooth, and the cubic poo left by grazing wombats. It’s crowded in these parts, but not with humans – over the next four days we’ll spot only a handful of other people.

Separated from the mainland by rising oceans some 12,000 years ago, Australia’s already distinct fauna became still more specialised on the new, smaller landmass. The isolation

Explore I BAY OF FIRES

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protected creatures such as the Tasmanian devil and thylacine, or Tasmanian tiger, that thrived here long after their mainland brethren disappeared. As urban growth and logging drove back Tasmania’s wilderness, remaining pockets such as Mount William National Park became vital wildlife hubs for mammals such as the Forester kangaroo – for which the park was created in the first place – and a plethora of birds including wedgetailed eagles, sea eagles and yellow-bellied black cockatoos. Park Trek guide Greg, who has spent a career exploring Australia’s wild places, mischievously suggests that if Tasmanian tigers still exist, this is where we’d find them.

At the end of the first

day, a detour to Mount William gives us a chance to get our bearings. The mostly gentle ascent (mountain is a generous descriptor) winds up through forests of eucalyptus and banksia, emerging above the tree line with 360-degree views of the surrounding bush and ocean. A chain of beaches march down the coast towards distant Eddystone Point Lighthouse and the Bay of Fires – we have a lot of sand-walking ahead of us.

Home and hearth We rise with the sun the next morning at Icena Farm, packing our lunch and sharing the last of breakfast with expectant chooks and turkeys. This day’s walk will take us through the rest of Mount William National Park to the border of the Bay of Fires Conservation

Area – a section largely untouched by modern development and steeped in history.

Early on, coming over the shoulder of Boulder Point, we skirt a vast midden. These deposits of shell and animal bones are metres deep, the remnants of thousands of cooking fires and communal meals in times past. Our guide indicates several rough stone flake blades used as disposable tools to prepare food and scrape animal skins. Along with many more middens spilling out of the dunes, we will also encounter a series of hollows created by stacked boulders – the remains of ancient hides used to lie in wait for seals hauling themselves ashore.

It’s a common misconception that the Bay of Fires is named after the fiery-coloured

PHOTOGRAPHY EWEN BELL, TOURISM TASMANIA / ROB BURNETT

TOP TO BOTTOM: Walkers are met with beach after beach, a devilish companion, blooming banksia, Eddystone Point Lighthouse.

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Explore I BAY OF FIRES

Into the fire By day three we have officially crossed over into this region’s cover star – the Bay of Fires.

Encompassing 30-odd kilometres of long bays broken up by tiny coves, wetland and tangles of flowering native scrub, this coastline has racked up a tidy number of ‘best beach’ accolades from the likes of Lonely Planet and the annual 101 Best Beaches.

With Eddystone Point Lighthouse at its northern tip, Abbotsbury Beach is one of the most accessible beaches in

each turn reveals another sweeping beach or hidden cove

the area. A few of us choose to walk this wide expanse of flawless sand, backed by softly rolling dunes criss-crossed with animal tracks, barefoot, as if we’re embarking on nothing more than a carefree amble on a lazy summer holiday.

But soon enough it's boots back on as we plunge into one of the most magical parts of the journey. For the rest of this day, and a large part of the next, we spend hours clambering over and around rocky redhued headlands, each turn revealing another sweeping beach or hidden coves lapped by those ever-lazuline waves, some buried in deep layers of bleached shells.

In one sandy bay we disturb a clearly affronted

Try it yourself

LEFT: Saying goodbye to The Gardens. RIGHT: boulder scrambling with Park Trek.

sea lion, who barks his displeasure as we edge around his basking boulder. Later, as we pass beneath the acclaimed Bay of Fires Lodge, a couple soaking up these views on their balcony toast to us with their Champagne flutes – we’re in on the same secret.

Transplant this spectacle a few hundred kilometres up the mainland coast and it would surely be one of Australia's most crowded seaside destinations. For our part, we're happy to have it to ourselves.

As we near the gaggle of beach shacks known

Departing Launceston, Park Trek’s four-day Bay of Fires walk includes three nights’ accommodation, as well as breakfast, packed lunch and dinner for the duration of the walk. Hikes commence in October and run to May. As one of Park Trek’s most popular walks, early booking is advised. parktrek.com.au

as The Gardens on the final day, the finish line suddenly seems too near.

Hypnotised by the bays and the waves, an urge to turn back kicks in – to fall back in step with the devil and get lost all over again.

Krysia Bonkowski was a guest of Park Trek.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Launceston from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY LISA KUILENBURG, EWEN BELL

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boulders dotting the area.

But it was the myriad campfires burning in the dark dunes that inspired Captain Tobias Furneaux to bestow the moniker when sailing past on the HMS Adventure in 1773.

With protected dunes, ample hunting and freshwater reserves, Mount William National Park was a favoured sanctuary for generations of the Palawa people.

Our end-point for day two, a headland marked by the distinctive pink granite Eddystone Point Lighthouse, is known as Larapuna to the First People and has recently been returned to Indigenous custodianship. Evidence of a culture stretching back thousands of years remains etched into the landscape all around, if you know where to look.

Wild wanderer

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Join before 25 September to automatically go in the draw to win a BIG4 adventure worth $8k at big4.com.au/perks-adventure

Meet the makers Noosa Open Studios provides locals and visitors to beautiful Noosa with the unique chance to visit artists in their private studios over 10 days in August. This annual free event runs from Friday 17 August to Sunday 26 August. noosaopenstudios.com.au

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Perfect Gift for Father’s Day “USUALLY every Father’s Day I receive beer, chocolates or tickets for the footy, but this year my family surprised me completely! After a great BBQ in the park and a fish by the creek, I had come home and found that they had changed my toilet seat! I was gob smacked; it had a remote and everything!

My wife told me that this new seat would wash and dry me with just the push of a button, she said that her friend had purchased one just last week and they loved it so much that she just had to get one for me to!

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Warm water wash Warm air dryer Soft closing lid Heated seat

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The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

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Explore I INTERVIEW

A Queensland corroboree

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PHOTO TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

Song, dance and theatre light up the stage during The Gulf Country Frontier Days Festival in Gregory (16-19 August).

NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

JETSTAR’S JUNIOERR TRAVEL BLOGG th to elled on Jetstar from Per Dylan and his family trav awesome d’s lan ens Que out ck the Gold Coast to che weather and beaches!

Dylan’s top packing tips for your next Gold Coast trip • Make sure you pack a hat, and, if you’re travelling from Perth, a neck cushion and a blanket because it’s a long flight.

• Also pack a pair of sneakers for walking and a pair of thongs for the beach, plus sleeveless T-shirts and very light shorts.

• Bring an umbrella because the weather can change really fast.

• You can buy activity packs on the plane, that are a bit extra but worth it.

Winner!

K-Zone and Total recently called ou Girl kids of Australia to t to the had the makings see who of a Junior Blogger. Six Jetstar writers won a flig clever ht Australian destina to the tion of their choosing.

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TEAM TRAVEL TIPS

Three reasons to visit the Whitsundays - with Anna Thomson Jetstar Internal Communications Advisor, Melbourne

1 Whitehaven Beach is one of the world’s most beautiful. Visit from the Hill Inlet end to enjoy the pure white sands and turquoise waters without the crowds.

Take the short hike to Tongue Point lookout for a bird’s-eye view.

2 The best way to experience the Whitsundays is on your own boat.

Wake up in secluded bays, snorkel isolated reefs and eat seafood you’ve just caught. Rent a boat in Airlie Beach and sail off on your own adventure.

3 Watch the sunset over Abell Point Marina, feast on delicious food and listen to live music at Hemingway’s Restaurant. Their oysters are famous, the cocktails are amazing and the prawn linguine is the best I’ve had.

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

GET LOST IN THE FOREST Travel writer Robin Esrock is taking his family across Australia in search of unique experiences.

This month he visits the NSW Central Coast.

I have a lot of respect for people who look at a forest and think: let’s pioneer a flying fox contraption that will take 2000 hours to research, 10,000 hours to build and result in an innovative and unusual ride guaranteed to plaster a smile on someone’s face.

The Xtreme TreeTop Crazy Rider in the Ourimbah State Forest bills itself as the world’s longest – and Australia’s first – treetop rollercoaster. Strictly speaking, it is neither a rollercoaster, nor toboggan, nor zipline, and yet, somehow, it’s more thrilling than all three. Rollercoasters don’t tend to be located within emerald-green forests. Toboggans don’t elevate you up to six storeys high. Ziplines don’t allow you to spiral around trees. As I clock an impressive 2G of force looping 540 degrees around a trunk, my whoops join the forest’s excited bird calls. Comfortably seated in a harness attached to a sturdy rail, the one-kilometre long family-friendly track is exhilarating and fun – a wholly original and distinctly Australian outdoor experience.

Robin Esrock’s next book, The Great Australian Bucket List, will be published in October. Follow his journey on Instagram at @robinesrock or esrockingkids.com

Sail through the treetops

Archer Magazine WHEN JOURNALIST Amy Middleton was growing up, she found the depictions of gender and sexuality on TV completely unrelatable.

Eventually, she realised she wasn’t alone.

At the age of 27, Amy took the plunge into publishing. And after a year of planning, countless volunteer hours and $20,000 worth of crowdfunding dollars later, Archer Magazine was born.

Archer Magazine is now an independent, award-winning print publication that tackles the tricky topics and taboos about sexuality, gender and identity, that mainstream media won’t touch. It is published twice-yearly in Melbourne, Australia, with a focus on lesserheard voices and the

uniqueness of their experiences.

Thanks to a team of impassioned volunteers, Archer Magazine is now sold across Australia, the US, the UK and Europe. It has shared more than 400 voices and reached over half a million readers, and earned a slew of awards including a Media Peace Prize from the United Nations Association of Australia.

Kooks is an avid supporter of Amy and Archer. archermagazine.com.au Support this and other great causes by purchasing Kooks wine on board your flight. kooks.com.au

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Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Life at Jetstar WORKING AT JETSTAR is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about.

SHARING IS CARING Meet Phil!

The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career. But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read Phil’s story below, or visit Life at Jetstar: jetstar.com/au/en/careers/lifeat-jetstar

The Team Flying Start grant is given to organisations that strike a chord with Jetstar staff.

Recently, the Jetstar team nominated Melbourne’s FareShare for the grant, to support the great work it does preparing food for vulnerable Victorians. A team of Jetstar volunteers also spent a morning in FareShare’s kitchen, where 1.2 million much-needed meals are prepared a year.

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PHIL BESIM Job title: Manager Customer Operations and Acting Manager Operations Control | No. of years at Jetstar: 11 | Location: Jetstar Operations Control Centre, Melbourne

How did you end up at Jetstar?

Unexpectedly, to say the least! I was at university studying engineering at the time and looking for a part-time role flexible enough to work around my class timetable. I came across a call centre-based role with Jetstar.

At the time the company had only been around for a few years. It didn’t take long for me to become fascinated by the industry, with a desire to get involved in the operational space.

I moved into the Operations Centre around seven years ago and continue to enjoy every part of the journey.

Describe a typical day: Working in the Operations team of an airline has to be one of the most exciting roles there is. On some days, Jetstar operates 400-plus flights in and out of Australia – there’s always the possibility of an unforeseen situation that we need to be prepared to respond to. Our teams work around the clock, monitoring any event that

could affect our customers’ journey.

It could be strong winds in Sydney, fog in Melbourne or a road closure in Brisbane. We’re behind the scenes making sure our flights operate seamlessly and that customers receive real-time information from Jetstar.

What’s been the greatest challenge in your job so far?

Recently we dealt with flight cancellations caused by volcanic eruptions at Mount Agung in Bali, where Jetstar is the largest carrier with more than 70 flights per week between Australia and Denpasar Airport. Our teams worked tirelessly to make sure customers were kept informed, and implemented additional relief flights into the schedule to bring home customers in Bali. Largescale events like this – that can last anywhere from days through weeks – require tactical planning, strong collaboration, high levels of resilience, and coffee. Lots of coffee.

Are you eligible?

Jetstar’s Flying Start Program invites community groups across Australia and New Zealand to apply for a $30,000 grant to fund a project that will enrich the lives of people in their local community. Applications are now open, visit jetstar.com to enter.

You’re really elated. He’s so frustrated.

You’re enthused, but he’s been abused.

To give you those pics, he’s prodded with sticks.

Why are wild animals put to such use?

There’s no excuse, it’s abuse.

worldanimalprotection.org.au/stopabuse

Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

CAMBODIA I STARKIDS

Back in school and ready to dream How StarKids is helping families rebuild their futures WORDS MEGAN ANDERSON

Hit the books

Yeat is studying hard so he can attend university.

PHOTO WORLD VISION

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hirteen-yearold Yeat is studying hard so he can achieve his dream of attending university. But until recently, his future looked very different.

One of five children, Yeat lives in a remote rice-farming community in Cambodia’s Preah Vihear province. A few years ago, his parents were struggling to grow and sell enough rice to feed their children.

Yeat’s older brother and sister left school early to help support the family.

Until recently, Yeat was expected to follow in their footsteps; he had already left school by grade two.

But in 2012, everything changed. As part of a

StarKids-funded World Vision project, Yeat’s family was given tools for change.

After participating in agricultural training, Yeat’s parents started growing nutritious food to diversify their income and provide for their family. They were also supported with seeds for high-yield vegetables.

Previously, Yeat’s family only ate vegetables if they had enough money to buy them. Now, they’re growing and earning enough for their daily needs, and even saving for the future. Yeat’s family is also inspiring others in the community to grow vegetables in their gardens.

World Vision also supported Yeat’s community with a water pump and well, to provide access to clean water for

You can help!

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need.

Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia.

By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future.

A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia.

Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information.

Your small change today could change a life tomorrow!

JETSTAR.COM drinking and watering the crops.

To help get Yeat back on track, World Vision supported him with education materials, which he is sharing with

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

This year*

$ 1,139,895 Total

$10,302,843 143 his younger siblings. Now back in school, Yeat is already studying hard to make good grades in class. He also reads books with his friends after school at the community children’s club.

After joining discussions around the value of education, Yeat’s father is determined to keep his younger children in school.

“We were so sorry to let Yeat’s older [siblings stop their] schooling. Now, I commit to work very hard to send my three little children to school so that they all can achieve their dreams.”

*Funds raised in 2017-18 financial year as of June 2018. Total raised since 2007.

Explore Essentials I INTERVIEW I INFLIGHT

and more fun too

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

APPS TO MAKE TRAVELLING EASIER

Download these useful apps for tech-savvy travellers FOR PLANNERS

Google Maps Free

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You might know that Google Maps can be used for directions and navigating public transport, even offline (if you download areas while still online). But did you know that you can save your favourite places, or those you’d most like to visit, to create your own customised map? Simply sign in to Google Maps and locate your chosen bar, hotel, restaurant or other business, and click ‘save’ in the overview menu, then further personalise by adding the location to your ‘Favourites’, ‘Want to go’, ‘Starred places’ or ‘Been to’, or by labelling your own new list. The map will then populate with the different icons, making it easier to visualise a city and its hotspots.

FOR GROUPS

FOR OLD-SCHOOL EXPLORERS

Splitr

Australia Post Postcards

Free

Free to download, with in-app purchases If you miss the simpler days of journaling, spontaneous daytrips and sending postcards, then this might just be your new addiction. Mix the analogue with the digital on Australia Post’s Postcards App, which allows you to convert any image taken on your iPhone* into a physical postcard, complete with a glossy finish and a personal message typed in a blousy font that looks almost handwritten.

FOR AVID GLOBETROTTERS

FOR BUSINESS TRAVELLERS

Jetstar

Expensify

Free

From mobile check-in and saving your boarding passes, to adding extras to your next flight, managing future bookings and your profile, checking out special offers and booking hotels and car hire, the Jetstar app is a go-to for planning your next trip. It even provides realtime flight updates.

Free

If you’re travelling for work, there’s no longer any need to carry around a wad of receipts or spend hours labouring over spreadsheets. Using Expensify, you can scan pictures of your receipts and save them to the app, so there’s no need to manually enter data. It even converts currencies for international travels and tracks miles and time spent on a particular project.

‘Split bills not friendships’ is the tagline of this app, which has been helping groups sort the dreaded cheque since mid-2017.

Users take a photo of the itemised receipt in the app (or upload a photo taken earlier), select which phone contacts or Facebook friends they’d like to split with, and choose whether to split the bill evenly or assign certain items to certain people (should your dinner date have opted for champagne with their lobster). Next, check the total and each person’s items and send out the request for payment through the app’s in-built secure payment system, et voilà!

*App compatible with iPhone 3GS, 4, 4S, 5, 5S, 5C, 6, 6S, 6+ and 6S+.

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou

Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou Hanoi Dong Hoi

Chiang Mai

Yangon Bangkok

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Shantou

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Phnom Penh

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kumamoto Kagoshima Miyazaki

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Phu Quoc

Nha Trang Da Lat

Ho Chi Minh City Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 6 September, subject to regulatory approval

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon) Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 3 August Operated by Jetstar Airways

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

147

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

Get to the Gold Coast

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour.

Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12.

Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre.

Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20.

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle.

Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $65 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $55 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor for fare voucher.

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential).

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle.

Adult $21, child $13; return:

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148

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

´adult $41, child $21.

Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25.

TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon) TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: adult $32, child $26, return: $64.

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins

Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers.

TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Newcastle 27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk.

Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred).

From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles.

Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect.

Tickets $15; return: $30.

Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers.

Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32.

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80.

TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22.

TransLink Bus 622.

Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle.

Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins.

Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit.

Adult $18, child $13.

Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18.

Bookings not required.

149

Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1_An essential layer of a traditional lasagne. (8,5) 7_An Australian ABC satirical comedy series that started in 2014 and stars Rob Sitch. (6) 8_A colloquial word meaning to live off other people. (6) 10_Another word for the Māori hangi or earth oven. (3) 11_A breed of domestic cat native to Thailand with blue, almondshaped eyes. (7) 13_What is the fauna emblem of Western Australia? (6) 14_The beloved yellow bird from Sesame Street (1969–) is called ‌ Bird. (3) 15_The abbreviation for Australia’s largest federal territory. (2) 17_Another word for a floatation tank. (9,4) 19_A popular valley about an hour from Brisbane at the foot of the Great Dividing Range. (7,6) 21_What is the Bald Eagle often called because it is the national animal of the US? (8,5)

1_A thorny ornamental vine with colourful leaves, known as veranera in Latin America. (13) 2_A French dessert made with choux pastry, crème patissiere and toffee. (13) 3_“So long, farewell, Auf Weidersehen, ‌ ‌. ‌. To you and you and you.â€? The Sound of Music (5) 4_What is Paterson’s Curse, a herb with purple-blue flowers, called in South Australia? (9,4) 5_A colloquial word for underwear. (6) 6_When you’re very happy doing something you’re “in your‌â€? (7) 9_Starting in 2016, This is ‌ is a popular US TV drama about Kate, Kevin and Randall. (2) 12_What is The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen, Eros in London or David in Florence? (6) 16_A log large enough to saw into boards. (6) 18_1024 bytes abbreviation. (5) 20_The acronym for the Reserve Bank of Australia. (3)

151

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_Aotearoa 2_True 3_A hangi is an underground oven in which food is cooked on heated stones 4_Wellington 5_True â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hillary made the first official ascent of Everest in 1953 6_b) One-third 7_True 8_People pressing their noses together 9_c) 32,828 10_Zorbing 11_The Ka Mate haka 12_North Island 13_Vote 14_The MaĚ&#x201E;ori New Year 15_Mt Ruapehu

152

9. New Zealand experienced a record-breaking year for earthquakes in 2016 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; how many took place?

A) 12 B) 1,900 C) 32,828 10. What zany sport was invented by two Kiwi brothers and their scientist friend in 1994?

11. The All Blacks typically perform what ceremonial haka before matches?

12. On what island in New Zealand can you visit the original Hobbiton Movie Set from The Lord of the Rings movie trilogy and The Hobbit films?

13. In 1893, New Zealand became the first country to give women the right to what?

14. What do MaĚ&#x201E;ori celebrate during Matariki?

15. At what Kiwi ski resort do you ski down the slopes of an active volcano?

1. In the MaĚ&#x201E;ori language, what is the name for New Zealand?

2. True or false: Auckland boasts the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest boat ownership per capita?

3. What is a hangi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a way to prepare food, or a traditional style of MaĚ&#x201E;ori massage?

4. What is New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital city?

5. True or false: alongside Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, Kiwi explorer Sir Edmund Hillary was the first person to reach the summit of Mount Everest?

6. How much of New Zealand is mountainous?

A) Three-quarters B) One-third C) Half 7. True or false: kiwis, the flightless birds native to New Zealand, are monogamous, often mating for life?

8. A traditional MaĚ&#x201E;ori hongi greeting would be comprised of what?

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© 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

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Available on 787 seatback screens I MOVIES & TV I Entertainment

Movies

Television

NEW RELEASES

Risky Business

Comedy, Crime, Drama

COMEDY

The Cabin in the Woods

Comedy, Fantasy, Horror Mars Attacks! ©2018 Marvel.

Avengers: Infinity War Tully

Action Comedy, Drama

Rampage

Action

Maya the Bee: The Honey Games Animation

I Kill Giants

Comedy, Sci-fi

Romancing the Stone

Action, Adventure, Comedy, Romance Twilight

Drama, Fantasy, Romance

FOREIGN FILMS

Fantasy

Fahrenheit 451 (2018)

Sci-fi

Ready Player One

Sci-fi

The Bookshop

Period Drama

Gringo

Action, Comedy, Crime

Love, Simon

Comedy, Drama

Isle of Dogs

Action, Adventure, Comedy

Tomb Raider (2018)

Action, Adventure

Unsane

Thriller

Breath

Drama

Midnight Oil: 1984

Documentary

Blockers

Comedy

© 2018 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved.

Friends

Season 10

Delve into the hearts and minds of six friends living in New York City.

Young Sheldon

Season 1

Will & Grace

Season 9

The Big Bang Theory

Season 11

Leonard and Sheldon are brilliant, socially awkward physicists.

The Thousand Faces of Dunjia Mandarin language

Action, Adventure

The Crimes That Bind Japanese language

Crime

FAMILY FAVOURITES

Modern Family

Seasons 5, 6 & 8

American Dad

Seasons 11 & 12

Bob’s Burgers

Season 7

An animated series that follows the daily life of a working class man, Bob.

Futurama

Season 7

DRAMA

© Disney Enterprises, Inc.

The Lion King

Family, Animation

Toy Story

Family, Animation

© 2018 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved.

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Black Lightning

Season 1

The Jungle Bunch

Animation

Chicken Run

Animation

Jefferson Pierce becomes the wanted vigilante and DC legend Black Lightning.

Flushed Away

Animation

Cold Case (Japan) Japanese language Season 1

Puss in Boots

Animation

Animal Kingdom

Moana

Animation

Megamind

Animation

In a global event dubbed The Departure, 140 million people suddenly disappeared.

Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Monsters vs. Aliens

Animation

Westworld

Batman Begins

Action, Adventure

Shrek

Animation

iZombie

The Bodyguard

Drama

Madagascar

Animation

Kung Fu Panda

Animation

A bold, subversive take on the surreality of small-town life.

How To Train Your Dragon

Animation

DC’s Legends of Tomorrow Seasons 1, 2 & 3

© 2018 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved.

Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Caddyshack Deadpool

Comedy, Sport Action

The Leftovers

Riverdale

Season 1 Seasons 1, 2 & 3

Season 1 Seasons 1, 2 & 3 Seasons 1 & 2

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Available on 787 seatback screens I TV & AUDIO I Entertainment

Television LIFESTYLE

KIDS

© 2017 E! Entertainment LLC. All Rights Reserved.

© Disney

© & TM Lucasfilm Ltd.

Keeping Up With The Kardashians Season 14

Star Wars Rebels

The Kardashians are determined to remember that family always comes first.

A few brave individuals band together in resistance to the Galactic Empire.

Magical teen princess Star Butterfly is sent to live with a family on Earth.

Robot Wars, Battle of The Stars

Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy Season 2

Big Ben: Saving the World’s Most Famous Clock

Wacky Races

Season 1

Scooby-Doo! & Batman The Brave and the Bold

Stuck in the Middle

Season 2

Trailblazers

Harley Diaz is from a family of nine, stuck in the middle of all the chaos!

Host Tania Bryer travels the world to meet global, iconic figures.

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Desert Vet

Peppa Pig Wabbit Season 1

Join Unikitty, the beloved character from The LEGO® Movie, and all her friends!

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Dynamo: A-Z

Season 3

Disney Tsum Tsum

Unikitty

Harry Styles: Live in Manchester Who Do You Think You Are?

Star vs. the Forces of Evil

© Disney

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Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz

Season 1

The New Legends of Monkey

Season 1

Games

ALBUMS

MUSIC VIDEOS

Tetris Chess Bejeweled 2

PNAU

The Preatures

Girlhood

Chart toppers from the likes of Shawn Mendes, PNAU, Ariana Grande and more.

This album gives fans a fresh blast of ear candy from one of the most beloved bands to emerge on the Australian scene in recent years.

Post Malone

10th Birthday Party

Alison Wonderland King Princess Holy Holy Winterbourne Foreigner

00s + 10s

Beerbongs & Bentleys

Lah Lah

New Hits

Awake Make My Bed EP

Foreigner With The 21st Century Symphony Orchestra & Chorus

Disney’s Classic Games Golf Open

Podcasts & radio The Bump

Lady Startup

The Hits

No Filter

Pure Gold

Ask Me Anything

ChillZone

Sting, Weezer and The Cardigans all feature on this nineties music video compilation.

Ready Jet Go

2DayFM Breakfast with Em, Grant & Ed

Settle Petal

Fifi, Fev & Byron

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From Lady Gaga’s Poker Face to Amy Winehouse’s career defining hit Back to Black, watch all your favourite music videos from the noughties to now.

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159

Backpage I TRAVEL TALES

Listless without a list

160

ONCE UPON A time, I flew by the seat of my pants. I had a passport teetering on the edge of validity, a few crumpled dollars to get me through the first hours wherever I was going, and at least one clean(ish) pair of underwear stashed in the ragbag that passed as my luggage.

These days, those pants I flew by? They’re triple-patched, carefully laundered and ironed with starch. You see, I’m the scatty mum of a four-year-old now, and spontaneity has gone the way of the eight (or six, or four) hour sleep. Apart from mainlining double espressos, only one thing gets me and my daughter off the yoghurt-stained couch and on a plane.

And that thing is lists.

Lists of upcoming flights. The Things to entertain daughter on said flights sub-list. Sub-sublists of Snacks that will fit in my carry-on and which will probably crumble but daughter loves them so whatever. Stuffed toypacking lists, with clauses and footnotes. Because what is a travelling parent without a list but a chump in an overseas hotel room wondering how to break the news that they forgot their jet-lagged kid’s mostdrooled on teddy bear?

I tried list-free travel once.

Only ONCE While I have come across the incredible specimen that is a parent who manages ad lib travel with aplomb, I am not one of them. Fretting that motherhood had morphed me into a control-freak killjoy, I tried list-free travel once. Only ONCE. Without my Don’t forget on

pain of death list, I left my phone charger dangling from a socket back home and wound up on a backstreet in the Japanese city of Narita searching for an electronics shop at 3am.

Minus my standard Don’t check out until checking for list, I left my theninfant daughter’s bottle congealing under a hotelroom pillow. And thanks to the lack of a Duty-free for parental brownie points list, I’m still awaiting my mother’s forgiveness for neglecting to purchase her

favourite limited-edition perfume. Far from proving that I could wing it with the off-the-cuff crowd, going list-less just sent me off my head.

Though lists are definitive things by nature, filled with satisfying bullet points and authoritative full stops, for me, the best kind comes with a slew of question marks. Typically written up on board the flight home, entries look like this: Bali? Fiji? New Zealand? The list’s name: Where to next …

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

Blessed are the list-makers when it comes to travelling with small children, writes mum-to-a-preschooler and television presenter Tamara Sheward

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