Jetstar September 2018 Magazine

SEPTEMBER 2018

jetstar MAGAZINE

FOLLOW THE ROAD

MAGAZINE

Our all-ages guide to the Great Ocean Road

SUNDAY FUNDAY We discover Bali’s best brunches

THE BIG CHILL

Hit the slopes in Japan’s Hokkaido Powder Belt

BRISBANE I NITMILUK I ALBANY I REGIONAL DINING COVER STORY

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CHASING THE SUN

GET A SPRING IN YOUR STEP ON THE NSW CENTRAL COAST

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journey to Rarotonga and Aitutaki in the Cook Islands is the perfect island escape. Rest and relaxation, romance, family fun, activity and adventure. You can have it all in this tropical paradise.

Everywhere the scenery is spectacular.

From turquoise blue lagoons fringed by coral reefs and stunning white-sand beaches to craggy volcanic peaks and dense jungles, it’s picture perfect and awe-inspiring.

There is a wide variety of accommodation with a choice for all budgets; from self-contained family villas to luxurious five star couples-only retreats, backpacker hostels and full-service resorts.

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People often ask which side of Rarotonga they should stay on. There are a variety of hotels, resorts and holiday homes all over the island, but most are located between Muri Beach and the western side of Rarotonga. Muri Beach has motus (small islands) just off the beach that can be swum or paddled to. Most resorts provide kayaks and snorkelling gear free of charge too.

There is also a wide variety of restaurants all within walking distance.

As you head around the island towards the western side, there is accommodation of all types and this is also where you will find the late afternoon sun and amazing sunsets.

Rarotonga Just 32 km in circumference, you can drive around the island in just 40 minutes. Rarotonga has the widest range of scenery, activities, accommodation, restaurants and cafés too. It has been said that Rarotonga is like one big resort – because people get out and about and don’t just stay in their hotel. There are beaches with no-one on them and you can stop and spend as long or as little time as you like there.

The multitude of cafés and restaurants around the island just have to be experienced. The food is so good with a huge variety on offer.

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Many holidaymakers are content just to enjoy Rarotonga’s relaxed environment with its warm lagoon and lush tropical mountains. There’s nothing better than a day lying on the beach, snorkelling, swimming, snoozing or simply admiring the scenery from your hammock. But while Rarotonga is perfect for relaxing and re-charging, it also has plenty of activities and cultural experiences to entertain you for days.

For some soft adventure, take Pa’s Cross Country Trek, which traverses the island’s mountains including the iconic Needle.

Take a four-wheel drive adventure tour, hire quad bikes or take a buggy tour, learn to paddleboard or scuba dive, go night diving,

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kite surfing or big game fishing.

A lagoon cruise on a glass-bottomed boat is a must-do. You can snorkel alongside tropical fish before going ashore on a palmfringed motu for a barbecue lunch and entertainment involving coconuts, sarongs, music and a good old laugh at life in general.

Many resorts have their own island night with traditional music and dancing.

And there are spectacular shows at the award-winning Highland Paradise Cultural Centre, set in an ancient mountain village at Arorangi, or the stunning theatrical over-water performance at Te Vara Nui in Muri Beach. No matter where you are or what you want to do, the whole island is yours to enjoy.

Aitutaki Often called the honeymoon island, Aitutaki is pure paradise. Only a 40-minute flight north of Rarotonga, it’s spectacularly beautiful, with a triangular-shaped reef surrounding a bright turquoise lagoon containing 15 small motus.

The crystal-clear water is home to bright tropical fish and its pristine white-sand beaches are private and secluded. Exploring the lagoon is an absolute must. Book a lagoon cruise to visit the outer motus and have lunch on One Foot Island, which some consider to be the most beautiful beach in the whole of the South Pacific.

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A Room with a Zoo Experience the unforgettable...

WINNER - Best Deluxe Accommodation in Australia* Giraffe Treehouses

NATURALLY!

JA

W

Au as uS be fro me joi

uSkaka Lemur Room

Jungle Bungalow

* 2017 Australian Hotels Association Awards for Excellence

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Jungle Bungalow

uShaka lodge Lounge

JAMALA

WILDLIFE LODGE A unique animal lodge located in Canberra, rated by local and overseas celebrities and guests as one of the best in the world. Jamala offers 3 very different accommodation facilities. Stay in uShaka Lodge with its own shark tank, in a Jungle Bungalow virtually built into the habitat of a bear, lion, tiger or cheetah, or in a Giraffe Treehouse where you hand feed your tall neighbour from your balcony! Included are afternoon and morning tours, 5 star accommodation, gourmet meals and fine wines. Dining is in the uShaka Lodge tropical rainforest cave where you may be joined by magnificent white lions and hyenas.

02 6287 8444 | info@jamalawildlifelodge.com.au

www.jamala.com.au

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Promotion I MRS SIPPY

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Promotion I MRS SIPPY

MEET MRS SIPPY

F O O D & B E V E R AG E

Hugging the contours of Bali’s largest saltwater pool, Mrs Sippy Bali is a tropical oasis inspired by old-fashioned fun for the young at heart.

Situated in the heart of Seminyak amongst shady palms, take a leap of faith off the iconic triple-tier dive tower and into the purest crystal clear water.

Walk in and you can’t help but wonder how you left the bustle of Seminyak. The whole family is welcome in the venue, with activities and menus for the kids as well as “Sippy Beach” for those wanting to escape.

Guests can sip on expertly shaken cocktails while dancing to the island’s best locally based and international DJs who spin tropical tunes daily. A premier event and dining destination, the menu boasts fresh, locally produced seafood using traditional wood firing techniques. The 200-seat restaurant is anchored by a five-metre Jimbaranstyle grill, operated by Michelin-starred executive chef Jonay Armas. Long-slung tables are piled high with icy buckets of rosé, chargrilled snapper, octopus and pizza.

EVENTS

C O N TAC T D E TA I L S Mrs Sippy is open from 10am to 9pm, seven days.

Jalan Taman Ganesha, Gang Gagak 8, Seminyak.

+62 361 3351079 mrssippybali.com Sometimes you just need to let your hair down. So if you are planning a private party, corporate event or the big day, Mrs Sippy Bali is the #1 destination for fun times - catering for groups of up to 10, and larger gatherings of up to 1500 people.

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Promotion

witness the world’s richest race on turf 1-11_CONTENTS_SEPTEMBER.indd 06-07_NATIVE_RACING NSW_v2.indd 6 All Pages

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Behold racing history Have you got your ticket to the hottest new event in the spring racing calendar?

The prestige, the fashion, the fun, the entertainment, the thrill of the race – The Everest promises all the above and much more. Held on the hallowed grounds of the Royal Randwick, Australia’s longest standing racing venue, this sporting event is like no other. With prize money of $13 million – making it the richest race on turf in the world – The Everest is set to be the biggest new fixture in the Australian racing calendar.

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When and where Saturday 13 October 2018, at Sydney’s Royal Randwick.

Tickets from just $32. theeverest.com.au

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Tempted by the fruit of a strangler fig, a Bornean orangutan climbs 100 feet into the rainforest canopy.

Photography by Tim Laman

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Promotion I ZOOS VICTORIA

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

50WILDLIFE GreAteSt PHOTOGRAPHS For three months only, Melbourne Zoo will play host to the new National Geographic photo exhibition 50 Greatest Wildlife Photographs – its world debut.

A must-see, this pop-up outdoor exhibition runs over spring (8 September – 30 November)

fUn aNd FreE Entry to the exhibition is included with Melbourne Zoo admission.

Kids under 16 visit FREE*

SEPTEMBER 8 – NOVEMBER 30 AT MELBOURNE ZOO FIND OUT MORE AT

zOO.Org.au/50GreAteSt

*Kids under 16 visit Melbourne Zoo free on weekends and Victorian government school holidays.

50 Greatest Wildlife Photographs is organised and travelled by National Geographic Society.

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September

Soak up the new Brisbane

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ON THE COVER: At play on the NSW Central Coast PHOTOGRAPHY: Central Coast Council

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contents SEPTEMBER 2018

EXPERIENCE

104

16 I WHAT’S ON

52 I PHOTO ESSAY

18 I NEWS

View the sun-licked shores of the Sunshine Coast from above

23 I #JETSTAR

61-80 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Snap-happy travellers’ shots

From Bali’s coves to its cafés

24 I MY PLACE

83 I ADVENTURE AHOY

Darwin’s dreamiest spots

26 I THE SHORTLIST

All-ages Otway escapades

90 I AWESOME ALBANY

Raise a pinkie to afternoon tea

Explore WA’s South West

28 I HOW TO

99 I SNOW BUSINESS

Pretend you know what you’re doing in the great outdoors

Hit Hokkaido’s slopes

30 I DRINK UP

See NSW’s Central Coast anew

Introducing the All-Australian Negroni

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EXPLORE

32 I FOOD TREND

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104 I COASTAL CURIOSITY 113 I BRISBANE’S BOOM Where to eat, drink and sleep

It’s Asia-mania in CBDs Down Under

120 I THE JATBULA TRAIL

35 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

129 I DESTINATION DINING

Melbourne’s rising star suburb

The regional restaurants challenging urban stalwarts

38 I RECIPE Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival with a sweet confection

Walk a while in the NT

168 I BACKPAGE Tales from row 57

41 I SPA & WELLNESS Sydney’s wild and wacky spa treatments

44 I STYLE Succumb to spring-racing fever

46 I HEALTH

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ESSENTIALS 142 I Jetstar news 150 I Where we fly

The nightclub-style workout that’s spawned a cult following

157 I Games and puzzles

48 I WORK AND PLAY

163 I Entertainment

The ‘slow-fashion’ label showcasing Aboriginal art

guide

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Welcome I JETSTAR GROUP CEO

A matter of pride JETSTAR MAGAZINE is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia +61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com.au Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Simon Tsang Editor Krysia Bonkowski Deputy Editor Chloe Cann Subeditors Leanne Tolra and Diana Baxter Designers Natalie LaChina and Sarah McMillan Picture Editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved.

Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015.

Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

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We wish Georgia and her family all the very best

O

ne of the things I love most about working at Jetstar is the willingness of our team members to go above and beyond. And recently I heard of our crew doing exactly that.

The life of nine-year-old Georgia changed suddenly last year, after she was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer. The illness affected the bones of her upper right leg, and she had to leave school to undergo treatments and surgery. Recently, however, Georgia received the amazing news that she is on the road to recovery.

When our team discovered that Georgia and her family were taking a well-deserved

trip to the Gold Coast, everyone was keen to find ways to make the family holiday more memorable.

Our crew heard that Georgia loves mermaids and has always wanted to swim with dolphins, so they reached out to Sea World to make her dreams come true.

When Georgia boarded the flight, our crew surprised her with the gift, as well as an upgrade to make the flight extra special.

To top it all off, Georgia’s cousin Matt, who is a First Officer with Jetstar, operated Georgia’s return flight. A true family affair.

We wish Georgia and her family all the very best, and look forward to having them on board again soon.

Thanks for choosing Jetstar, I hope you enjoy your travels.

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Gareth Evans Jetstar Group & Jetstar Airways CEO

Georgia flying high

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PHOTO SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD

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A festival of plenty

Eat mooncakes and be merry this Mid-Autumn Festival.

Celebrated across Asia, and increasingly in Australia and NZ too, find out what the event is all about on page 38.

LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

Spring has sprung!

September Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

2018 Australian Geographic Nature Photographer of the Year

On until 11 November (Adelaide) and 28 January 2019 (Sydney)

World of WearableArt 27 September to 14 October Wellington, New Zealand

Dubbed ‘Mardi Gras meets haute couture’, this carnival of colour and texture is set to draw some 60,000 spectators to the NZ capital. A design competition that includes entries from more than 40 countries, designers parade outlandish garments at the very frontiers of fashion in choreographed stage shows that would put Lady Gaga to shame.

Gawp at nature’s feats and admire the expertise (and stamina) of photographers, who often lie in wait for days to capture the perfect shot of fauna across ANZANG (Australia, NZ, Antarctica and New Guinea). naturephotographeroftheyear. com.au

worldofwearableart.com

Kings Park Festival 1-30 September Perth, Western Australia

Alice Desert Festival

Melbourne Fringe Festival

Royal Adelaide Show

Roll up! Roll up! For a mammoth bill that includes dance and music performances by residents of far-flung Aboriginal communities, plus circus, film, live art and comedy, this community event is your go-to. desfest.com

Art, the whole art, and nothing but the art will be on show at this mammoth ode to, you guessed it, art. Savour hundreds of different works and performances in 170-plus venues across the city – from bookshops to car backseats. melbournefringe.com.au

Almost 30 per cent of the state’s population visit this extravaganza each year. Expect fireworks, beautiful gardens, painting demonstrations, eating contests, marching bands, karaoke, acrobatics and more at this all-round family affair. theshow.com.au

Until 20 September Alice Springs, Northern Territory

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13-30 September Melbourne, Victoria

Until 9 September Adelaide, South Australia

Green thumbs unite – this month-long tribute to flora offers a plant sale, guided park walks, outdoor photography and art exhibitions, as well as free weekly gardening sessions with Dig it with Coffee and science seminars hosted by environmental scientists. bgpa.wa.gov.au

PHOTOGRAPHY WORLD OF WEARABLEART, ALAMY, ROWLY EMMETT PHOTOGRAPHY

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

HAWAII

Aloha Festivals September Oahu, Hawaii

Held throughout September, all of the block parties, traditional hula performances and parades at the Aloha Festivals are free. Come for the Hawaiian music and dance, stay for the island cuisine. alohafestivals.com

Winter Pride

1-9 September Queenstown, New Zealand At the Southern Hemisphere’s largest gay and lesbian winter pride festival, the festivities are both on-mountain (cabaret nights, dance parties, night skiing) and off (bungy jumping, jet boating and hikes). winterpride.co.nz

SWELL Sculpture Festival 14-23 September Currumbin, Queensland

With a backdrop of Tiffany-blue waters, bone-white sand, and the Gold Coast cityscape in the distance, this free sculpture festival promises to please the eye as well as spark artistic curiosity.

The 50-plus large and small-scale works take on a new look come twilight, when they illuminate. swellsculpture.com.au

Finals season Until 30 September

The annual showdowns hit screens (and Aussie stadiums) this month, leading up to the AFL Grand Final (29 September) and NRL Grand Final (30 September). Victoria has extra reason to rejoice, as the Friday preceding the big match (28 September) is a public holiday.

It’s a great month to…

RAISE your spirits with a walk among beautiful spring blooms. Try the Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers (21-30 September) or the Blooming Tasmania Flower & Garden Festival (22-23 September).

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SPY fairy penguins on the beaches of north-west Tassie from now until February, as they begin to breed. Visit an official observation point or join a tour.

GET active by joining the Ocean Swim Fiji 2018 (13-17 September) over three islands.

Great Eastern Wine Weekend 7-9 September Freycinet, Tasmania Wine tastings on a cruise of Wineglass Bay, private seafood picnics on remote beaches, freshly shucked oysters enjoyed while standing in the waters they’re grown, and a game cooking class over fire and coals – this festival is an epicure’s delight. freycinetlodge.com.au/wineweekend

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Experience I NEWS

Perfectly placed in Perth

INTERVIEW

Q&A with Bruce Milne INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

The western capital’s bed boom looks set to continue unabated with the recent arrival of QT Perth – the boutique accommodation brand’s first foray in WA. A total of 184 rooms over 18 floors feature sumptuous jewel tones set off by local jarrah timber, while the in-house Italian eatery (Santini Bar & Grill) and resident bar Rooftop at QT (now the city’s highest), are sure to make QT Perth a firm fixture for visitors and locals alike.

Did it surprise you when Melbourne was declared live music capital of the world earlier this year?

qthotelsandresorts.com/perth

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ART WATCH

Here’s looking at you

Catch Australia’s favourite portrait award, the Archibald Prize, as the exhibition kicks off a regional tour at the Geelong Gallery (from 22 September to 18 November). geelonggallery.org.au

Bruce Milne has been quietly shaping Melbourne’s music scene since the ’70s. The founder of record labels Au Go Go and Infidelity, former owner of The Tote Hotel and co-owner of Greville Records now regularly hosts the Melbourne Music Bus Tour, run by the Arts Centre and Australian Music Vault. We spoke to the musicologist about why Melbourne rocks.

How did you first become involved in Melbourne’s music scene?

In the mid ’70s all my friends were playing instruments, and I was always the worst musician among them but I was the most organised. So I started putting on gigs and writing about bands, which led to RRR [community] radio shows and writing for music magazines. Then I started a record label and record shop, and it sort of built from there.

What do you think makes Melbourne a music hub?

I think it’s partly the weather.

Most other major Australian cities enjoy such warm weather that people make use of it – there’s so much outdoor activity. Whereas Melbourne’s always had more [indoors] activity – people here tend to be more interested in theatre, films, galleries and music.

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Not really – it’s astounding how many places there are for people to play [in Melbourne].

And it almost seems these days that if someone’s thinking of opening an interesting bar or restaurant, they start thinking “What live music are we going to have?” Now we have a situation where, regardless of who’s in government, there is support for live music. And that’s just amazing.

Do you have a defining Melbourne music moment?

I always love it when a more obscure artist from overseas comes out here, and the look on their face when they start playing to a room of people who actually know a lot about them. The music knowledge that people have [here] is pretty astounding, and that’s a lot to do with the great radio we have in Melbourne. RRR, PBS – both stations are just head and shoulders above any others like that in the world. The stuff you hear on them; everyday there is something that makes you go, “Wow, what the hell is that?”

How did you get on board the Music Bus Tour?

When I first bought a computer 30 years ago, to try to learn Microsoft Word and Excel, I started listing all of the old music venues, radio stations and recording studios. So when the bus tours came along, it was actually really easy. It was just a case of putting my stories together with everyone else’s, and we always have musicians along. And because everyone goes to gigs, everyone’s got stories, so every time I do a tour I’m always writing notes, adding to the stories I can tell. artscentremelbourne.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY DEE SMART – LUNCH IN THE OUTBACK, LINH PHAM/ / AFP / GETTY IMAGES

JUST OPENED

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Experience I NEWS

INNOVATIVE ARCHITECTURE

ARMCHAIR ADVENTURES

Golden touch Find Insta gold deep in Vietnam’s Truòng Son mountains, near Da Nang. Named Câu Vâng, or ‘gold bridge’, the recently opened gold-tinged attraction has garnered plenty of attention for its unconventional design – the 150-metre walkway appears to be suspended some 1400 metres above sea level by nothing more than two giant concrete hands.

Pictorial pleasures Working in consultation with its pool of professional nomads, Lonely Planet has just dropped Epic Hikes of the World (RPP $44.99), outlining 50 awe-inspiring walks over 30 countries, including New Zealand’s iconic Routeburn Track and Sydney’s 27km Seven Bridges Walk.

Glampackers seeking inspiration should track down Gestalten’s new The Grand Hostels (RRP $69.50). Curated by high-profile travel blogger Budget Traveller, aka Kash Bhattacharya, the hardcover tome profiles nextlevel hostels around the world – from designer dorms in the Philippines to minimalist digs in Kyoto. shop.lonelyplanet.com, gestalten.co

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ECO ALERT

CAMPING WITH ALL THE COMFORTS Walk on the wild side

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Set to be another bestseller for Taswegian specialist operator the Tasmanian Walking Co (TWC), the Three Capes Lodge Walk promises to tread lightly while showcasing the island state’s staggeringly tall sea cliffs (the highest in the Southern Hemisphere), coastal woodlands and dense silver gum forests. TWC boasts the only private accommodation available within the Tasman National Park, with both of its off-grid lodges featuring innovative and environmentally sustainable features, including Australia’s first recycling showers.

The four-day, 46km guided walk launched this month, and includes lodging, three-course meals, afternoon tea, Tasmanian wine and even the option of spa treatments. tasmanianwalkingcompany.com.au

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Experience I NEWS

CHILLED KIDS

THREE OF A KIND

Spring to it WITH THE PROMISE OF SPRING IN THE AIR, HERE ARE THREE WALKS PERFECT FOR STOPPING TO SMELL THE NATIVE BLOOMS Morans Falls Track

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Alfred Nicholas

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Memorial Gardens, VIC The 1000 Steps Walk seems to steal all the limelight, but that’s a boon for visitors to this neighbouring verdant sanctuary. For many years the boathouse and its gardens were closed to the public after years of neglect. But today you can wander the maze of undulating paths under the shade of mountain ash trees, with cherry blossom and flowering azaleas bordering the ornamental lake and waterfalls.

Last-minute snow day Put your September school holidays on ice. At the tail end of the southern ski season prices are cheaper and resorts less crowded – perfect for a last trip to the snow. Thredbo’s Family Fun Nights continue through September, culminating with the Kids Snow Festival (23-30 September); Mt Buller hosts Yoplait Petit Miam Kids’ Week (24-28 September); and Hotham holds three junior free-ride events. Early spring is also ideal for a visit to Queenstown, NZ, with snow still on the mountains but summer activities starting to kick off.

Coronet Peak (pictured), Treble Cone, Cardrona and The Remarkables all see junior championships this month.

CULTURAL CAPERS

Waterfall Gully to Mount Lofty Summit Trail

Adelaide Hills, SA Only 15km east of the CBD, the Mount Lofty Summit promises sweeping views over Adelaide’s cityscape and the plains to the west plus a range of walks and hikes. The 4.5km trail from Waterfall Gully is arguably the most popular, taking in stringy bark forest, burbling creeks and the heady scent of eucalyptus carrying on the breeze. You may even spot an echidna or two.

Get thee to the Globe

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Wherefore art thou Shakespeare fans? A replica of the second Globe theatre, modelled on the 1614 original, first took shape in Auckland in 2016 for the 400th anniversary of the Bard’s demise. After a successful Melbourne season last year, the Pop-up Globe will take residence in Sydney’s Entertainment Quarter from 5 September for six weeks. The spring of Shakespeare will include renditions of four of his most beloved plays. popupglobe.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS HOOPMAN, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND / JASON CHARLES HILL, JONTY PATERSON, VISIT VICTORIA

Lamington National Park, QLD Swap the concrete jungle for the subtropical rainforest at Lamington National Park, a 1.5-hour drive from Surfers Paradise. Weave your way around the sprawling trunks of white booyong trees on sun-dappled tracks below towering brush boxes before landing at the lookout over Morans Falls, which drops 80 metres to the valley floor – it’s a plum spot for a picnic.

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REACH YOUR PEAK It’s the final countdown – only a few months until you wave goodbye to year 12. Time to plan schoolies, daydream about summer and look forward to celebrating with friends.

But what about those next steps? If the thought of plotting life after the ATAR is stressing you out, then these six tips might help you decide whether further study is right for you, what your dream career really is, and how to land it.

1. THERE’S NO NEED TO SETTLE FOR A 9-5. If the thought of spending

2. YOU CAN SEE THE WORLD WHILE WORKING. And no, that

3. FORGET THE ENDLESS INTERNSHIPS. Many of our courses

your days cooped up in an office doesn’t excite you, you’re not alone, and there’s no need to fret – plenty of careers allow you to work in a more free-range, creative environment. Fancy working with your hands? Take one of our patisserie courses.

Love talking to people? We’ve got a guiding certificate for that. There’s plenty more choice on our website too.

doesn’t just apply to our cabin crew students. Many of our alumni work across the globe – from chefs at Nobu in Caesars Palace, Las Vegas, to pâtissiers at Ottolenghi in London. There are opportunities to travel even while studying at William Angliss Institute, from international study tours to study exchanges and work placements.

include industry experience. Our Diploma of Hospitality Management is run in partnership with international hotels in Melbourne and Sydney; our onsite training restaurant and bistro allow you to train in real-life situations; and our Great Chefs Program allows cookery and hospitality students to work with some of Melbourne’s most inspiring chefs.

4. YOU MOST CERTAINLY CAN BE YOUR OWN BOSS. If the prospect

5. STUDYING DOESN’T HAVE TO LEAVE YOU IN A HEAP OF HECS.

of devoting your days to working for someone else makes your blood run cold, then a career in the food, events, tourism, and hospitality or hotel management space is possibly your best bet. Many of our alumni run their own small businesses, with some even starting up on their own while they’re still studying.

At William Angliss Institute we have many scholarships available through our foundation, and can help direct you to national scholarships you might be eligible for too. Our Melbourne campus offers government-supported places for our Victorian foods courses, and some courses even boast periodic scholarships for international work experience.

6. YOU DON’T HAVE TO SIGN AWAY YOUR LIFE FOR THE NEXT FOUR YEARS. These days there are numerous pathways into the world of work.

At William Angliss Institute you can study for a degree (either a Bachelors or a Masters), though many of our courses are broken down into smaller, bite-sized steps if you’re not ready to commit – from six-month certificates to 12-month diplomas.

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Experience I #JETSTAR

@kiwichick77

@sunnycoastmum

Queenstown, NZ

Sunshine Coast, QLD

@wgfanthdn

Are you a snap-happy traveller?

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Each day, jetsetters share snaps with @JetstarAustralia and @JetstarNZ on Instagram. We recently called out to find the best #JetstarWindowShot.

Here are a few of our favourites

Mount Fuji, Japan

@flowerlovernz

@namizo116

SHARE YOUR JOURNEY En route to Queenstown, NZ

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Kujukuri Beach, Japan

Don’t forget to add #JetstarAustralia or #JetstarNZ to your travel photos!

9/8/18 12:41 pm

TRUE Chef Chung Jae and family have made Darwin home WORDS CHLOE CANN

W 24

hen Sam and Chung Jae of Darwin restaurant Little Miss Korea moved to the NT from SA in early 2014 the pair had little idea what to expect. “I had visited Darwin before for Judo competitions and Sam made a brief trip there a long time ago so I guess you can say we were pretty much going in blind,” Chung Jae says.

“After a quick trip to take a look, the decision was made to explore Darwin.

And with two young children we thought what a great experience it would be for them too.”

Previously, the couple owned a Korean restaurant in Adelaide. After 11 years in operation they closed up shop with the intention of moving to Melbourne. But a job ad for a chef experienced in Korean cuisine to helm a Darwin kitchen piqued their interest, and soon, the whole family upped sticks and headed north.

By the end of the year, however, Chung Jae had left his role as executive chef at the Oaks Elan Darwin restaurant. Instead, he opened Little Miss Korea in Woolworths’ old loading bay – an industrial-chic spot proferring quintessential Korean barbecue over charcoal and a zingy à la carte menu.

Here the pair offer their top picks for a stay in their adopted home.

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9/8/18 12:41 pm

Experience I MY PLACE

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Satay on the grill at Parap Markets, jump around at Big Buoy Water Park, Embella’s wares. OPPOSITE: Chung Jae.

no need to worry about crocs ... the rangers keep an eye on them SEKADA HOMEWARES

PHOTOGRAPHY RESIDENT MAGAZINE, PARAP MARKETS, WATERFRONT BIG BUOY, EMBELLA

132 Smith Street SeKada Homewares is where we get gorgeous clothes, jewellery, quality plates – the list goes on – for the restaurant and for our home. This is the place where we can do all our Christmas shopping in one spot. In Darwin we don’t have the large department stores, but we don’t need them when we have quaint little shops like this.

PARAP VILLAGE MARKETS Parap Village Shopping Precinct parapvillagemarkets.com.au Most Saturday mornings, while we enjoy a small sleep-in, we send our daughters off on their bikes to the popular Parap Markets for a takeaway blend bowl – the pina colada and acai are our favourites. But if you feel like something more substantial, we sometimes get a pork roll from the Huong Viet Market Stall and a satay stick from Sari Rasa. Parap Village Markets has shopping stalls too, and is a great spot for a catch-up with friends on a Saturday morning.

If you are looking for souvenirs you can certainly get some Top End beauties here.

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LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK

BIG BUOY WATER PARK

nt.gov.au/leisure/parksreserves Only an hour’s drive from Darwin, this is a must-do darwin tlemisskorea while staying in our tropical FOLLOW: @lit city. Enjoying a dip in one of the many waterfalls is just so refreshing. Take a packed lunch, forget about everything for the day and relax. We always start off at Buley Rockhole and then finish at Florence Falls, which has a few stairs involved, but a DARWIN’S FESTIVALS good bit of exercise never hurt If you’re in Darwin over August anyone. And no need to worry you will get to enjoy the about crocs as the rangers Darwin Festival and the Aurora keep an eye on them for you!

Spiegeltent on the Esplanade, where you can enjoy some EMBELLA JEWELLERY delicious food and drinks while Shop 7 Star Village Arcade, watching the sunset. It’s such 32 Smith Street a great spot to chill out. And embella.com.au if you’re visiting during one of Exquisite, handmade sterling Darwin’s festivals that feature silver jewellery with the comedy [such as the Darwin trademark leaf, Embella has Fringe in July] then catch one gorgeous anklets that come in of Nicole Stevens’ shows. It is many different styles, as well a well-known fact that most as ‘three in one’ designs that people living in the NT have a you can wear as a necklace, good sense of humour and that bracelet or anklet. There are a is exactly what local comedian lot of offerings in this one little Nicole Stevens has. She can shop but we always go for the often be found doing shows at jewellery for presents as they Browns Mart Theatre too. are only made in Darwin.

Keep up to date with the restaurant

Darwin Waterfont Precinct Recreational Lagoon, Kitchener Drive bigbuoy.com.au This is the only place in Australia where the water playground is set up year-round. It’s great fun for all the family, and an excellent outlet for burning off energy. There are so many aspects of this playground so you can just lie there and relax or really go wild. Our kids love it and we can watch closely from a nearby bar.

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STONE HOUSE 33 Cavenagh St stonehousedarwin.com.au A stylish, high-end wine bar in the heart of Darwin, Stone House offers an extensive wine list, and it’s a great spot for a pre or post-dinner drink.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Darwin from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

9/8/18 5:03 pm

Experience I THE SHORTLIST

Tea for two

5

1

OF THE BEST

Tea times Beat the slump between meal times with these mid-afternoon delights

2

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

26

3

4

QT Museum Wellington, Te Aro, Wellington, NZ qthotelsandresorts.com/ wellington Teatime was never going to be boring at Hippopotamus, the flagship restaurant of QT Museum Wellington.

Overlooking the harbour, the flamboyant dining room with its pink velvet chairs and sentinel peacocks is the setting for a high tea executed with finedining flair. Chose the Hip’ High Tea to add a house cocktail such as the Raspberry Fizz, with NZ raspberries, sparkling and a white chocolate rum foam.

2. VAUCLUSE HOUSE TEAROOMS

5

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Vaucluse, Sydney, NSW vauclusehousetearooms. com.au A stately Gothic mansion in an exclusive harbour-side enclave, Vaucluse House is the heritage former residence of explorer William Charles Wentworth.

The tearoom overlooks the

estate’s sprawling original grounds, and is a genteel spot for a spot of afternoon tea – think duck croquettes and Earl Grey crème brûlée – with brews from T2 or a cheeky Bellini.

3. SOFI’S LOUNGE Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, Melbourne CBD, VIC sofitel-melbourne.com.au Have the pinkies ready to rise for this affair on the ‘Paris End’ of Melbourne’s Collins Street.

On weekdays, high tea is served to your sofa on tiered stands, while weekend sittings include an indulgent buffet of pastries, scones and all the tiny sandwiches you can muster. Francophiles should visit weekdays 3-5pm for Le Goûter, a dainty afternoon tea in the French tradition.

4. JING YAA TANG The Opposite House, Beijing theoppositehouse.com Dim sum and tea is to China what cream tea is to England.

First popularised in Cantonese tea houses, snack-size morsels

such as xiao long bao and char siu pork buns, washed down with black tea, have been popularised the world over. Jing Yaa Tang, in Bejing’s trendy The Opposite House, is a fixture for its daily all-youcan-eat dim sum, priced at CNY 168 (around $35), with a bottomless glass of Chandon Brut for a further CNY 168.

5. HIGASHIYA GINZA Ginza, Tokyo higashiya.com/en Set above the din of Chuodori street, Higashiya Ginza is dedicated to the traditional art of wagashi – handmade sweets often painstakingly flavoured and shaped to reflect minute seasonal variations. The zen 40-seat sabo (tearoom) offers samajiki (Japanese afternoon tea) – sets of delicate wagashi and savoury bites paired with high-grade green and herbal teas. The elegant shopfront also offers immaculate gift packs of confectionary, tea blends and homewares.

PHOTOGRAPHY HIGASHIYA GINZA, QT MUSEUM WELLINGTON, SOFITEL MELBOURNE

1. HIPPOPOTAMUS

10/8/18 4:17 pm

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9/8/18 12:42 pm

Experience I HOW TO

Get geared up

How to be

A HAPPY Prepare well and prosper in the wild, even if you’re a camping newbie WORDS CATHERINE BEST

Gear up Appearance is everything in the outdoors, and if you can’t fillet a trout with your teeth while simultaneously starting a fire, you’ll need to fake it before you make it.

Function trumps fashion.

Always. Dress for comfort and the conditions.

Think warmth, layers, durability, waterproofing, sun cover and insect protection. Skimpy activewear looks hot in a gym, but will get you burned in the wild.

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Safety first Don’t be that backpacker who went missing in the bush for a week and was forced to eat mosquito larvae to survive until discovered. Be smart; always tell someone where you’re going and when you plan to return. Take lots of water, a first-aid kit and emergency supplies, and know how to read a map.

If you’re camping or hiking out of range, consider taking a satellite phone or emergency beacon just in case you run out of baked beans.

Shelter from the storm

Befriend the bureau Weather really can make or break an outdoor adventure. Camping beside a river in a onein-100-year storm isn’t fun. Neither is walking through a snowdrift in the depths of summer.

So, check in with the Bureau of Meteorology regularly and seek out local intel on weather conditions.

Embrace disconnection

yourself, the Earth and those you choose to bring If you witnessed the world’s along. Read, play cards, most amazing sunset and sing by the campfire and couldn’t Instagram it, howl at the moon. did it really happen? Yes, Baby steps and you’ll be richer for If trundling from your fivethe experience without star digs to an alfresco hot the distraction of devices. tub is the extent of your Being off the grid is a great way of reconnecting with hiking experience, don’t

ILLUSTRATION STUART HOLMES

28

ejoice, spring is here! Time to wriggle out of winter hibernation and dust off the outdoor gear. But if you’re the kind of person who prefers sleeping under five stars rather than the night sky, fear not. This cheat sheet for first-time adventurers will have you channelling your inner Bear Grylls in no time.

9/8/18 12:42 pm

Experience I HOW TO

Fake it ‘til you make it

Be like Bear

29

Smart is safe expect to trek the 800km Camino de Santiago any time soon. Likewise, if you’ve never camped before, a remote bush humpy with no amenities, save for a trusty shovel, isn’t your best bet. Slowly build up your tolerance for walking, camping and other outdoor pursuits.

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Read, play cards, sing by the campfire and howl at the moon

Dos and don’ts Always be prepared, do your research and embrace the experience.

Binge-watch Man vs.

Wild for inspiration and download an app such as the Offline Survival Manual so you can outlive a tryst with a deadly serpent. Don’t rely on

others to pack for you – be self-sufficient, trust your gut and plan for the worst-case scenario. And for heaven’s sake don’t watch any creepy, slasherin-the-woods flicks like The Blair Witch Project.

They will scare you off wilderness escapades for good.

13/8/18 12:52 pm

Experience I DRINK UP

All-Australian Negroni A classic Italian cocktail gets the full Australian treatment WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

That’s the spirit!

Bursting with botanicals

Bitter, not sweet

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Orange you glad to see me

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for the Martini Rosso or Campari, Australian bartenders can harness homegrown spirits with a distinctly local flavour.

The Endeavour Tap Rooms in The Rocks, Sydney, has sourced tipples from across the nation to offer an allAustralian Negroni.

The spirit backbone is provided by an acclaimed dry gin from Four Pillars in Victoria’s Yarra Valley, featuring Aussie citrus

and lemon myrtle. The aromatics are delivered

by Regal Rogue dry red vermouth, which marries Barossa Valley shiraz and Hunter Valley semillon with the warmth of native pepper berry and nuttiness of wattleseed.

And the all-important bitterness comes courtesy of Adelaide Hills Distillery’s bitter apéritif – a balance of Riverland oranges with indigenous riberries and quandong.

All-Australian Negroni INGREDIENTS • 20ml Four Pillars Rare Dry Gin • 20ml Adelaide Hills Distillery The Bitter Orange • 20ml Regal Rogue Bold Red Vermouth • Orange wedge

METHOD 1. Build gin, vermouth and bitter orange apéritif in a rocks glass filled with ice, and stir.

2. Garnish with a wedge of orange.

ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

T

raced back to the eccentric Italian count Camillo Negroni and a bar in Florence in 1919, the Negroni’s perfect balance of dry gin, bitter orange liqueur and subtly sweet, aromatic vermouth has stood the test of time.

The recent popularity of the classic apéritif cocktail has coalesced with the booming domestic spirits industry.

Now, rather than reaching

Ice, ice baby

9/8/18 5:04 pm

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the space comes to life with luminous projections splashed across three stories of exposed brickwork. Here, you can immerse yourself in the brand new menu which has been carefully composed by Head Chef, Wayne Brogan. Favourites include Crispy Beef Brisket Taco’s, Slow Smoked Lamb Shoulder & Deep Fried Pickles. With a wide variety to choose from, you will be planning your next visit before you leave to try the next tempting dish that gets whisked past your table.

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9/8/18 12:43 pm

THE CULT ASIAN EATERIES COMING TO A STREET NEAR YOU 32

Authentic, reasonably priced and typically specialising in just one thing, these Asian imports sprouting across the shores of Australia and New Zealand are blurring the lines between smart and casual dining WORDS CHLOE CANN

K

eisuke Takeda is a man of precision.

The celebrity chef and restaurateur, who hails from Hiroshima, Japan, demands eggs that weigh 58 grams. Their yolks must also exhibit a reddish hue to make the final cut.

Noodles receive a similar visual cross-examination: all of the squiggly carbohydrates that anchor Keisuke Ramen’s bowls of broth (which is simmered for 12 hours) are made in-house daily to exacting standards from locally sourced ingredients. Customers are allowed to request

different noodle textures, as well as soup flavour and temperature, and a couple of extra toppings (think flavoured eggs, seaweed and extra pork chashu). But beyond that there are no variables, only a holy trinity of three dishes – tonkotsu, black spicy tonkotsu and red spicy tonkotsu – made using a recipe perfected over the course of 13 years.

The first (and as yet only) Australian outlet from the ramen maestro, Ramen Keisuke Tonkotsu King, opened in Perth’s The Melbourne Hotel in April. But fervour surrounding the

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newcomer shows no sign of abating anytime soon.

“Ramen Keisuke Tonkotsu King continues to have lines of people queuing to eat at lunch and dinner daily,” explains Kylie Sullivan, the hotel’s sales and marketing manager, of the 20-seat restaurant.

Its neighbour, cream bun specialist Hattendo, represents another Australian first. An equally popular import, Kylie says the Japanese bakery mini-chain was selling out of buns within hours during its first few weeks in operation, with the kitchen at maximum production capacity.

Hattendo and Ramen Keisuke Tonkotsu King are just two of the many cult Asian eateries popping up across Kiwi and Australian CBDs, and sporting lines of patient punters. Michelin-starred Taiwanese dumpling powerhouse Din Tai Fung was an early entrant to the Australian market, landing in Sydney’s World Square in 2008; it now has 10 outlets across NSW and Victoria. The infinitely Instagrammable Hokkaido Baked Cheese Tart (born in Malaysia using what’s said to be a traditional Japanese recipe), rolled out 16 branches across New Zealand and Australia

PHOTOGRAPHY TIM GREY, SIMON SHIFF, SHOT BY THOM

Experience I FOOD ICON

9/8/18 5:05 pm

Experience I FOOD ICON CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: NeNe Chicken is winging its way to CBDs across Oz, bowls of joy at Ramen Keisuke Tonkotsu King, casual dining at Ippudo, Uncle Tetsu’s world-famous cheesecake, Hokkaido’s cheese tarts, Hattendo’s number one buns.

within the space of just one year, with at least two more due before the end of this year. Ippudo ramen can be found in six locations across Australia, with two more sites Down Under hotly tipped for the near future. South Korean fried chicken chain NeNe boasts a portfolio of 13 Australian stores, with one more set to open in Darwin shortly. That’s before we

begin to talk about Peking duck purveyors Quanjude (Melbourne and Sydney); Japanese cheesecake outfit Uncle Tetsu (five across Melbourne, Sydney and Auckland); and Sichuanese star Mr Meng Chongqing Gourmet (three under its belt and another on the way in Brisbane).

Fast casual restaurants (a step up from formicaladen fast food outlets and a step down from the starched white linens of fine diners) are the quickest-growing segment of Australia’s food market, according

32-33_EXPERIENCE_FOOD TREND_CULT ASIAN EATERIES.indd 33

People are shifting from a more finedining mindset to market research firm Euromonitor. And it’s in this band that most savvy, specialist Asian chains sit.

“We try to keep the menu as limited as possible,” explains Vincent Chua, operations manager for dim sum doyen Tim Ho Wan (founded in Hong Kong) and Michelin-starred Singaporean eatery Hawker Chan. “We believe you can only be the master of one thing [or be] really mediocre at lots of things.” Beyond doing one thing only, and one thing well, Vincent cites friendly pricing (a plate of soya sauce chicken rice at Hawker Chan will set you back just $6.80) and the adventurous eating habits of Australians as reasons why casual dining Asian eateries have

sprouted up everywhere.

“We definitely noticed the trend for Asian chains in Australia,” he says, adding that the growing local Asian population and taste for Asian food among Australians were other key factors contributing to their enduring popularity.

Sho Yoshimura, operations manager of Ippudo, agrees. “People are shifting from a more fine-dining mindset to a more casual scene here in Australia. There’s a heightened awareness of Asian cuisine in general, plus people are travelling more, and lots of Australian chefs are bringing in their influences as well, introducing Australians to ingredients and flavours they wouldn’t otherwise have been exposed to.”

Whatever the reasons, it’s clear that these Asian imports have cracked the recipe for success. “It’s been six years since we opened [our first store in Sydney],” notes Sho. “But we still see people lining up for lunch and dinner.”

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9/8/18 12:44 pm

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9/8/18 12:44 pm

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

VICTORIA Melbourne

24 HOURS IN

FOOTSCRAY

The gentrification of this inner-western Melbourne suburb is equal parts celebrated and bemoaned, but at all times fascinating WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

ABOVE: Hip-to-shoulder eateries on Hopkins Street. RIGHT: Coffee and cannoli with a smile at T Cavallaro and Sons.

BELOW: Soaking up the sun at Rudimentary.

BREAKFAST

MID-MORNING

In a homage to the dockyards dividing Footscray from the CBD, airy café Rudimentary lives inside three reborn shipping containers in a former carpark near busy Hopkins Street. Start your day in the peaceful nook, surrounded by planter boxers overflowing with herbs and a sunlit rectangle of turf. The menu ranges from the classics (eggs done to order with a pick and mix of sides) to creative larger plates with a focus on seasonal ingredients. rudimentary.com.au

Footscray might not win many beauty awards, but it has one of Melbourne’s most vibrant street cultures. Post-breakfast, stroll to the bustling Footscray Market (Tuesday to Saturday), where the people-watching alone is worth the visit. After, visit the artist-run Trocadero Art Space across the road for free, contemporary exhibits over three spaces. For open-air art, detour to nearby Shelley Street and check out the mural of Footscray's patron saint, local businessman Franco Cozzo.

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PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, VISIT VICTORIA, RUDIMENTARY

LUNCH

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Footscray has welcomed waves of migrants over the years – European, Vietnamese, African and, most recently, hipsters.

The result is a mishmash of cultures and, above all, wonderful food. For lunch, sop up Ethiopian stews with spongy injera at Addis Abeba; crunch Sapa Hills’s special spring rolls; or dip flaky Malaysian flatbread in dhal at Roti Road.

Our pick – a banh mi stuffed with barbecued pork or chicken, salad and pâté from Nhu Lan Bakery, followed by a freshly piped cannoli from T Cavallaro and Sons, suppliers of fine Italian pastries since 1956.

9/8/18 12:44 pm

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

Pick up a new skill

Walk off your multicultural feasting with a potter to the Footscray Community Arts Centre (FCAC). Spilling down the bank of the Maribyrnong, this is one of Australia’s longest running and most respected community art hubs, offering a year-round calendar of exhibits, programs and events.

This month, swing past for a lesson in ceramics with sculptor and artist Erin Tsubono, or bring the kids along during the school holidays for interactive workshops on everything from animation to clowning. footscrayarts.com

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LATE-AFTERNOON Once upon a time Footscray was strictly a VB kind of town, but it's now becoming something of a craft beer hub.

From the FCAC, follow the Maribyrnong River Trail along decommissioned train tracks to local favourite Hop Nation.

Sandwiched between seafood wholesalers in an industrial estate is the brewery and bar of winemakers-turnedbrewers Duncan Gibson and Sam Hambour. Order a tasting paddle and sample their core range, limited releases and the fruits of an in-house fermentation program. hopnation.com.au

DINNER AND DRINKS Footscray’s nightlife is now as varied as its population.

For rock and punk gigs and a mod-Mex menu (including a solid vego range) start off at the Reverence Hotel, a short walk from Hop Nation. Down a nearby laneway, laid-back Back Alley Sally’s feeds patrons with pizzas from sister venue Slice Girls West. Mr West has transformed a former $2 shop on Nicholson Street, purveying craft spirits, wine and beer in a ground-floor bottleshop and an equally impressive drinks list in the upstairs bar. Finish up at Littlefoot, joining the locals on the dance floor under a glowing, neon ‘Footscray’.

Footscray’s nightlife is now as varied as its population

BEDTIME The CBD and its many accommodation options are only a short train ride away, but if you’d rather stay local, gastropub the Plough Hotel incorporated 11 comfortable rooms into its 2013 refurb of the 150-year-old building. Located at the far end of Barkly Street, it’s an easy walk home from the strip’s nightlife, or out again for the first meal of the next day – breakfast pho anyone? ploughhotel.com.au

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Travel info

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Get crafty at the Footscray Community Arts Centre, pull up a pew at Hop Nation, perfect pours at Mr West.

Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY FOOTSCRAY COMMUNITY ARTS CENTRE, HOP NATION, MR WEST

EARLY-AFTERNOON

9/8/18 12:44 pm

E S T. 1 9 9 9

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9/8/18 12:44 pm

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REACH FOR THE MOON

CHEF VICTOR LIONG SHARES HIS CHILDHOOD MEMORIES OF A FAVOURITE TREAT AT MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL TIME

idAutumn Festival is one of the biggest celebrations in the Chinese lunar calendar, second only to Chinese New Year. Traditionally a harvest festival, it falls on the 15th day of the eighth month, or, according to the Western calendar, on 24 September this year. Chef and owner of Melbourne’s Lee Ho Fook, Victor Liong fondly recalls the lead-up to the festival during his childhood. “I

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remember when I was growing up in Malaysia and Singapore there were just lanterns everywhere, so it always had a bit of a festive feel. And, of course, we’d eat mooncakes all the time,” he says.

Mooncakes are a familiar feature of the Mid-Autumn Festival.

About the size and density of a hockey puck, they’re usually sweet pastry shells filled with lotus seed paste and a whole salted egg yolk in the middle that represents the moon.

“They’re like 1000 calories

or something,” Victor says. “It’s super rich but significant and people love it. Mid-Autumn is a celebration where you just hang out and gaze at the moon and eat these calorie cakes.

Mum makes mooncakes and hands them out. It’s kind of like Christmas puddings; people give them away.”

Eating and gifting mooncakes symbolises prosperity. When MidAutumn hits, Lee Ho Fook’s Asian ingredient supplier delivers a box

of mooncakes with orders, but it’s not enough to stop Victor from feeling a sense of seasonal nostalgia and missing family in Sydney.

When he visits the city of his childhood over MidAutumn his mum cooks dishes tied to prosperity and longevity, such as seafood and noodles. “As you get older and families get bigger there’s a need to have these days, to have everyone come together and keep it alive. It’s about culture and identity. I’m gallivanting and living this single life here, and I look

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

WORDS SOPHIA LEVIN

9/8/18 12:45 pm

Experience I RECIPE

INGREDIENTS MAKES APPROX 12 BITTER CARAMEL SAUCE • 500g sugar • 250ml water

CUSTARD

Osmanthus and botrytis custard with burnt caramel Mid-Autumn Festival lights up Singapore. RIGHT: Victor Liong’s (inset) modern take on a Mid-Autumn dessert.

at photos of relatives back home and think, wouldn’t that be nice!”

To celebrate in Australia, see what’s happening at local councils and markets with a sizeable Asian population and join the festivities. Every year there’s an event at Dandenong Market, Melbourne, and a Moon Festival in Cabramatta, Sydney. Alternatively cook up Victor’s recipe for longevity, below, featuring the symbolic osmanthus* flower.

38-39_EXPERIENCE_RECIPE.indd 39

BITTER CARAMEL SAUCE Put the sugar in a heavy-based saucepan and cook over a medium-high heat, stirring incrementally so the sugar melts evenly.

Once it starts to brown, turn the heat down to medium-low and continue stirring. The mixture should adopt an even goldenbrown tone. Control the heat by either turning it down or taking the saucepan off the flame.

Once the mixture turns a mahogany colour, carefully remove from the stove top.

Place the pot in the sink and carefully pour the water into the caramel – it will sizzle and steam. Allow to cool slightly, then taste it; it should taste of caramel, with a bitterness and a sweetness like crème caramel.

Cool and store the mixture in the fridge; the sauce should thicken a touch to be silky and sticky at the same time.

CUSTARD Preheat the oven to 150°C. In a bowl, thoroughly whisk the

whole eggs and yolks together.

Bring sweet wine, sugar and osmanthus flowers to the boil.

Strain using a fine sieve and discard the osmanthus.

Pour the egg mixture over in three stages, stirring with a whisk to incorporate after each addition.

With a whisk, stir through cream until well-combined, then chill mixture in the refrigerator overnight.

The next day, the mixture may look split: stir gently to combine the two layers using a wooden spoon, trying not to make too many bubbles.

Pour custard mixture into crème brûlée ramekins and place on a baking tray deeper than the height of the ramekin. Fill the base of the baking tray with water until one-third to halfway up the side of the ramekins – this technique is called a bain-marie.

Cover the tray tightly with foil, then bake for 30 to 45 minutes.

There should be a very slight

• 6 whole eggs • 20 egg yolks • 750ml botrytis semillon sweet wine or similar • 240g caster sugar • 10g osmanthus flowers (available at most Asian grocers) • 1400ml cream

39

wobble in the centre of the custard, about the size of a five-cent piece. Once that’s achieved, remove the cover from the tray and allow to rest on a cooling rack for 10 minutes. Remove from the tray and allow to cool completely to room temperature before refrigerating, to avoid cracking.

Once chilled, pour a thin film of the caramel sauce over the top, so that each mouthful gets a lick of the sweet and bitter caramel. Eat while gazing at the moon during the MidAutumn Harvest Festival.

*Omanthus’ importance to Mid-Autumn feasting links back to a Chinese fable told for more than 2000 years.

9/8/18 12:45 pm

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

THE SPA TEST RUN

Georgia Lejeune strays from the beaten beauty track to road-test some of Sydney’s alternative therapies 41

PHOTOGRAPHY QT SYDNEY

That’s a wrap Energising Body Wrap, $255, SpaQ, Sydney CBD qthotelsandresorts. com/sydney-cbd/spaq Although a body wrap is fairly low on the spectrum of unusual treatments, I tried one with a sparkling difference at QT Sydney’s SpaQ. My wrap treatment began with an indulgent warm footbath and light foot massage. Next, the therapist carefully applied a Thermal Spring Body Polish – containing salt from the natural salt mines of Salies-de-Bearn, rich in magnesium, lithium, potassium and calcium – to my limbs and core. She alternated between rubbing in the mixture and drizzling

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warm water to activate the ingredients. While I briefly wondered whether I resembled a human drip sandcastle, the overall feeling of relaxation soon quieted my overactive imagination.

The body wrap treatment that followed contained ground sapphire, which is said to release muscle tension, eliminate negative energy and restore vitality to the body. As the balm was applied, I was encased like a chrysalis in a paperthin sheet and thick towel. I felt an incredible warmth creep over my entire body. This, I was told, is the sapphire powder doing its thing.

The only possible way to describe the feeling was

I felt an incredible warmth creep over my entire body what I imagine it would be like to be back inside the womb. A massage using anti-fatigue jelly massage oil with glittering malachite – which assists in soothing muscle aches

and tensions – ended the 90-minute session. I floated out of the building and down the street feeling energised, warm and a little bit like a semiprecious gem.

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

A H M Y

Got the glow

Im an ad to yo ov gl to co

CLOCKWISE: Hooked up at the Drip and Chill Lounge, lit up in Cryospa’s sauna, infrared saunas are a hot spa trend.

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Infrared Sauna and Chromotherapy, $35, Cryospa, Crows Nest cryospaclinics.com A pre-emptive Google search educated me on the weird and wonderful world of colour light therapy and the purported health benefits of applying different coloured lights to the body. To satisfy my curiosity I paid a visit to Cryospa, which specialises in alternative treatments such as cryotherapy (cold therapy), chromotherapy and Himalayan salt rooms.

After changing into my swimwear, I was directed into a small, wooden infrared sauna in which I would spend the next 30 minutes sweating profusely and talking myself down from my rising panic (it turns out that I’m not the biggest fan of oppressive heat in confined spaces).

The chromotherapy aspect of the treatment was applied through a

square of small bulbs overhead that changed colour every few seconds – it was like a private disco in a very hot box.

The treatment is said to flush out toxins and balance energy in the body. Although I left with a low-level headache (drink lots of water) and a face resembling a ripe tomato, I certainly felt a total sense of calm and my curiosity satisfied.

Chill out Vitamin Deficiency Infusion, $250,

Face Plus Medispa, Bondi Beach faceplus.com.au Trade in cocktails on the beach for a vitamin cocktail delivered directly into your arm via an intravenous drip.

One person’s nightmare is another’s beauty treatment, right? A visit to the Face Plus Drip and Chill Lounge in Bondi Beach is exactly what you’d expect if you imagine a hospital

W Th bu is ar ho

crossed with a day spa (a ‘hospa’ perhaps?).

After a consultation with a nurse, we decided on a vitamin deficiency infusion – which included a shot of B12 (directly into my bicep) and a drip containing vitamin C, vitamin B and an antioxidant, glutathione.

Before administering the treatment, we needed the go-ahead from the consulting doctor, who beamed in via Facetime (it was oddly Black Mirroresque) for a brief chat about my medical history.

I was then injected and left to lie back for 30 minutes of mild discomfort as the drip delivered the vitamins directly into

my bloodstream. The entire experience felt a little surreal, but not altogether unpleasant – and not just because my doctor resembled a young George Clooney.

Visitors to the Drip and Chill Lounge range from frequent travellers requiring a boost after a long-haul flight, sufferers of chronic fatigue, those with low immune systems and hardcore party-goers who may have had one too many the night before.

Although I didn’t emerge with the superhuman powers I’d hoped for, my energy levels were noticeably higher over the following days.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, CLEARLIGHT® SAUNAS AUSTRALIA & NEW, ZEALAND, FACE PLUS MEDISPA

Colour me beautiful

Bl Cu on m pr

N A d b th d b in h ri

A

Ne Ge Su W

To Is

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Lucy_R

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem.

What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill.

Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up.

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Blooming beauty Race into spring with playful patterns and pretty pastels

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Just peachy

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1. Morgan and Taylor Crystal headpiece, $49.95, morganandtaylor.com.au 2. Ted Baker Lynetta Chatsworth Bloom skater dress, $429, tedbaker.com/au 3. We Are Kindred Chloe blazer in rose, $399, wearekindred.com.au 4. Pared Eyewear Piccolo & Grande sunglasses in ivory, $260, au.paredeyewear.com 5. By Charlotte Blossom bracelet, $259, bycharlotte.com.au 6. Gorman Floret earrings, $59, gormanshop.com.au 7. Peta and Jain Kourtney clutch in nude, $49.95, petaandjain.com 8. Wittner Aimee heel in pink, $199.95, wittner.com.au

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Experience I STYLE

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9. Ted Baker Cheea blazer, $639, tedbaker.com/au 10. River Island White floral short sleeve shirt, $24, au.riverisland.com 11. Quay Still Standing aviator, $60, quayaustralia.com.au 12. Debenhams Hammond & Co. Natural straw boater hat, $37.80, debenhams.com 13. UNIQLO Skinny chino in white, $49.90, uniqlo.com 14. 15. 16. Buckle | 1922 Pattern braces, $49, Cufflinks 142, $49, Pocket square micro, $14.95, buckle1922.com.au 17. 18. Trenery Bento reversible leather belt in tan, $79.95, Edmund leather derby, $179, trenery.com.au

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Brace yourself

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Experience I HEALTH

PEDAL TO THE METAL New-age cycling classes are all about the tunes, the tribe and the fun WORDS LUCY SIEBERT

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Bodhi & Ride’s resident rock-star Ellena Takos.

BELOW: Health ‘clubbers’ at Bodhi & Ride.

Follow the leader

the only club my classmates frequent is a health club There, she paired a career as a dancer for the likes of Nicki Minaj with teaching at SoulCycle, a cycling class with a cult-like celebrity following on both sides of the Atlantic.

The local equivalent is Bodhi & Ride, which, in addition to its Port Melbourne studio, also has an ‘underground ride chamber’ in the CBD – specially designed for stressed-out city workers who can swap their suits for lycra and a highintensity complete body workout on a bike.

After 45 minutes of pumping tunes, and

plenty of affirmation from Ellena, I certainly feel more euphoric than any night out on the town would achieve.

I hop off my bike to wobbly legs and aching biceps (this cycling class includes arm weight exercises). I’m dripping with sweat but feel elated. It might be the endorphins but I’m considering signing up.

It’s easy to see why SoulCycle took the Big Apple by storm all those years ago – and from what I can see, its local equivalents are sure to be a hit here, too.

TRY IT HERE MELBOURNE Bodhi & Ride is found at 416-418 Bay Street, Port Melbourne, and 8 Goldie Place, Melbourne CBD. bodhiandride.com.au SYDNEY Find Vicious Cycle inside LivingWell Health Club, 255 Pitt Street, Sydney CBD. viciouscycle.com.au BRISBANE Inspire Cycle has two studios; 76 Commercial Road, Teneriffe, and in the Brickworks Centre, 9 Brolga Avenue, Southport. inspirecycle.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY BODHI & RIDE

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EVERYBODEEEEY! Move your bodeeeey!

Yes, around here, Backstreet Boys are well and truly back.

I survey the dark room, which is artistically illuminated at intervals with high-end nightclubstyle lighting. My fellow fitness warriors are perched on stationary cycling bikes and lit up in red beams; then cobalt blue. It’s not only the lighting that has a club feel to it – the music is pumping. I imagine this is what a nightclub dance floor sounds like after midnight (admittedly, it’s been a while).

But I’m not clubbing – far from it.

It’s 9am on a Sunday morning in suburban Port Melbourne. And, from what I can see, the only club my classmates frequent is a health club.

Clad in stylish leggings with mesh cut-outs and little crop tops, they’re seated with their cleats – cycling shoes that are provided before class – clipped into slick spinning bikes.

Keeping with the nightclub theme is Ellena Takos, our rock-star instructor who, appropriately, is a professional dancer hailing from New York.

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

The business of better Maggie McGowan and Laura Egan’s fashion label Magpie Goose is spreading economic empowerment across the Top End. Here, Maggie shares how Magpie Goose took flight WORDS PETER BARRETT

Where did the idea come from?

I was working as a lawyer with an Aboriginal legal aid organisation in Darwin and Katherine. I noticed the root of a lot of issues was people not having control over their own lives or economic power. Then I met my partner (in business and life) Laura Egan, an economist with a history of working with Aboriginal communities.

One day, after a bad day at work, she asked what I’d rather be doing. I said, ‘Probably something to do with these incredible hand-screenprinted textiles.’

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The Pandanus story print from Magpie Goose.

INSET: Co-founders Laura Egan (left) and Maggie McGowan (right).

What’s been your biggest challenge?

Working in a remote setting, there are hurdles at every turn. During the wet season (November to April) a lot of the communities are flooded and cut off, so you can only get there by light plane, which is really expensive. Freight costs coming in and out of the communities is generally high, too. Meanwhile, art centres might close for a

funeral or become too busy with tourists in the summer.

Your work-around?

We’ve been building [these difficulties] into the story and making sure that customers really understand that whole journey. It’s the ultimate in ‘slow fashion’!

Where to from here?

More collaborations with remote communities across Australia, and we’re

It’s the ultimate in ‘slow fashion’ always interested in testing the market overseas; doing a pop-up in LA, London, Japan or South Korea; and people in Germany and France have a real love of Aboriginal art, so I think that could be interesting to explore.

PHOTOGRAPHY MAGPIE GOOSE, BE.BANLGES, GOGO EVENTS, BEEKEEPER PARADE

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What is Magpie Goose?

We’re a fashion social enterprise. We source hand-screen-printed textiles designed by Aboriginal artists and create clothes to showcase them. The fabrics tell different stories of ceremonies, country and dreaming, which gives people here and around the world a chance to connect with Aboriginal culture. And, in the process, it generates income for Aboriginal artists living remotely in Australia.

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

DIY social enterprise

THE BUSINESS OF DOING GOOD 1. BE. BANGLES Chantelle Baxter launched her ‘for purpose’ business Be. Bangles in 2016. Her range of silver and rosegold bangles feature empowering messages ranging from the upbeat (“let your light shine”) to the defiant (“well behaved women rarely make history”) and are designed to counter the barrage of unhealthy messaging girls and women are subjected to. Be. Bangles also donates five per cent of its profits each quarter to onegirl.org.au, a charity Chantelle co-founded to provide education to girls in Africa. bebangles.co

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Keep on carrying on

2 3. GOGO EVENTS Founded by Adelaide events organiser Sarah Gun, this selfdescribed ‘event design and management social enterprise’ began in 2012 as a response to the waste in materials and social opportunities Sarah saw across the events industry. As well as sourcing products from community groups, charities and not-for-profits, GOGO Events employs and trains disadvantaged or marginalised people. And, when the event is over, they recycle, reuse or donate anything left over where they can. gogoevents.com.au

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2. BEEKEEPER PARADE When Sophia Saly died after a battle with cervical cancer in 2012, she left her car to her brother Koky with clear instructions: he was to sell it and use the funds to continue their charity work with BabyTree Projects, fighting for children’s rights in their native Cambodia. Six years later and Koky’s business, BeeKeeper Parade – a backpack manufacturer that uses recycled materials – is thriving. In that time they have upcycled 10 tonnes of fashion waste and funded more than 3000 places for Cambodian children to study English. beekeeperparade.com

Denis Moriarty is from Our Community, a social enterprise helping notfor-profits with resources, training and more.

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Be different “If you want to survive, don’t replicate another idea.”

Be sustainable “What’s going to bring in the money when your PR campaign fades?”

Keep your head clear “Have you got the mental capacity, and time, to start a new entity?”

Stick to your guns “Never forget the values that got you started. Avoid bending to commercial or darker pressures.”

Make it the best option

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“Ensure your reasons for starting a social enterprise are sound. Could it be better as a traditional business or not-for-profit?” ourcommunity.com.au

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Waterfall chasing

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

Weave your way through the NT’s ‘stone country’ on the multi-day Jatbula Trail hike. Read more from page 120.

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BALI I BRISBANE I JAPAN I AND MORE

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The early birds (clockwise) Catching the first waves of the day at Point Cartwright, wading in at Coolum Beach, rowing into the sunrise.

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Photographer Dave Wilcock’s visions of the Sunshine Coast at first light will make you reconsider hitting the snooze button

You are my sunshine

QUEENSLAND I SUNSHINE COAST

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A swell time (left to right) A long weekend brings the crowds to Noosa Main Beach A surfer hoping to catch a break at Point Cartwright Gentle giants cruise on by Sunshine Beach

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Break of day (left to right) Making tracks on Point Cartwright beach, a dawn surf is a local ritual.

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Explore I SUNSHINE COAST

First light Why sleep-ins are overrated on the Sunshine Coast WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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Sunshine Coast BRISBANE

About the photographer

that first light over the ocean is just magical work to catch the sunset everyday, obsessing on how I could capture it better,” he says.

“When I moved to the Sunshine Coast, I walked into [landscape photographer] Peter Lik’s gallery on Hastings Street and that was it; I was completely captivated and found what I wanted to do with my life.”

The ocean is a recurring subject of Dave’s work, and an endless source of inspiration. “It’s never the same – there’s just so many variables with the ocean that the colour, texture and clarity are always different,” he says.

“Pair that with sunlight at different times of day and weather, and you have an extremely versatile subject.”

Dave finds the photography ‘golden hour’ of sunrise and sunset the best time to shoot, but harbours a preference for dawn: “That first light over the ocean is just magical,” he says.

The use of a drone took Dave's photography to new heights, and remains his favourite method for capturing his dreamlike landscapes. “It’s very addictive,” he says. “I don’t shoot much from the ground anymore!”

Sunshine Coast-based photographer Dave Wilcock specialises in landscape and aerial scenes, with large-scale prints available for purchase on his website. davewilcock photography.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Sunshine Coast from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVE WILCOCK

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awn breaks early in the Sunshine State. Like rugby, XXXX beer and a laidback attitude to life, Queensland’s refusal to adopt daylight savings has become something of a defining feature of ‘God’s Own Country’.

At an hour when residents of most of the southern states are still hunkered down under the covers in the dark cursing the alarm clock, many Queenslanders have risen with the birds to make the most of sunny days.

A love of the outdoors lifestyle was one of the reasons Dave Wilcock always longed to decamp up north. “For as long as I can remember, I have always wanted to live in Queensland,” the Adelaideborn photographer says.

“There’s just something about the tropical climate and being outside all the time that makes me feel a deep sense of happiness.”

He was lured to the Sunshine Coast by the beaches and weather – plus a girl – eight years ago, and hasn't looked back.

Although the move was largely a lifestyle decision, it also wound up providing a career epiphany.

“I’ve always been in awe of nature and found myself rushing home after

9/8/18 2:43 pm

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9/8/18 2:49 pm

DISCOVER THE GARDEN OF NEW ZEALAND Nestled around the mythical peak of Mount Taranaki, the Taranaki region has been known as the ‘garden of New Zealand’ for more than 150 years.

Visit this spring to catch two spectacular garden festivals, and between the gardens explore the region’s renowned galleries, museums, eateries and attractions. There’s a lot to discover in Taranaki, including why Lonely Planet judged it one of the world’s top regional destinations.

For everything you need head to www.taranaki.info.

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visit.taranaki.info Photos: Edward Aish & Rach Stewart

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Explore I INTERVIEW

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

INDONESIA

Bali

Bali

Contents

62 I INTO THE

HIGHLANDS

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Explore Bali’s verdant belly

71 I DEEP

DIVE

Little-known islands with big appeal

PHOTOGRAPHY BATU KARANG LEMBONGAN RESORT & DAY SPA

78 I EAT IT UP

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Decadent brunches are all the rage

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INDONESIA I CENTRAL BALI

INDONESIA

Bali

Heart of Bali

Head into Bali’s tranquil highlands and discover jungle treks, serene temples and more amid beautiful terrain WORDS REBECCA BOTELER

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PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, BAGUS JATI, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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Picture yourself here

CLOCKWISE: Bagus Jati resort, Gunung Kawi Sebatu water temple, worshippers at Tirta Empul temple, Handara Golf Resort’s iconic gates.

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Explore I CENTRAL BALI

TOP TO BOTTOM: Gunung Kawi Sebatu temple is enfolded in rainforest, see craftsmen at work on Bagus Jati’s village tour, an elegant chalet at Bagus Jati.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, BAGUS JATI

I

look at the guide’s feet, safely ensconced in sensible walking shoes, then over at my own designer sandals.

I look up at him dubiously.

“Are you sure I can go jungle trekking in these?”

“Of course, madam,” he assures me, with a smile.

Half an hour later, as we’re pushing through thick jungle, tripping down steep muddy ‘steps’ and balancing on bamboo ‘bridges’, I’m cursing my last-minute decision not to pack my hiking shoes for our trip to central Bali.

Before now, I’ve only driven through the central region to get to somewhere else, but on this occasion we’re spending 10 days exploring the heart of the island. Despite its natural beauty, traditional culture and spectacular temples, we’re pleasantly surprised to find the one thing central Bali lacks is many other tourists.

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While Ubud is the southern gateway to central Bali, we start our journey further north, at the stunning Bagus Jati resort, in the village of Sebatu. Our wooden bungalow, perched on stilts and hugging the hillside, looks out at a seemingly solid wall of jungle on the other side of a ravine. The sound of a river reverberates around the resort, a soothing alternative to the noise of the traffic that seems inescapable in other parts of the island.

The first sign that my footwear could be a problem is when I set out on the resort walk, only to find myself hiking through muddy farmland, dodging cow pats while my guide points out native plants used in traditional dishes and medicines. After emerging from the fields, we stop at a roadside woodworking shack to watch the talented artists making inanimate blocks of wood seemingly come to life. The walk ends

at the house of a local family, a fascinating real-life illustration of the area’s culture and traditions.

The next day, I hire a driver to explore some of the nearby temple complexes. We start at Gunung Kawi Sebatu, a serene Hindu water temple with a jungle backdrop, where holy water pours from stone spouts into a mosscovered pool.

A descent of more than 300 steps down to

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A sacred moment

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an open landing reveals enormous shrines carved into the charcoalcoloured cliff face. A river flows nearby, the banyantree roots dangling over it like a spindly curtain through which I can see five more massive shrines on the other side. The exact reason this sacred site was built appears to be a mystery, adding to its allure.

It seems fitting to take a circular route to explore the heart of Bali, so the next day we head south.

We stop to admire the incredible vivid green of the Tegallalang rice terraces before visiting the peaceful temple Tirta Empul, where I stand in the waist-deep spring water, pouring it over my head and sipping it from cupped hands.

We continue our circle as we travel west, before finally turning north and feeling the temperature

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drop as we head towards the central highlands.

We arrive at the Saranam Resort & Spa in Baturiti and are greeted by another jaw-dropping view: green rice paddies, palm trees and forested hillsides combine to create a scene that’s more surreal, super-saturated Instagram post than reality. Like many places we experience in central Bali, there are very few people around, giving us the chance to enjoy the serenity.

The next day is the second test for my muddied sandals. As the ‘nature walk’ takes us into the rice fields, my entire foot disappears into the sludge more than once. Our enthusiastic guide points out features of the resort property, explains local farming practices and breaks leaves off plants for us to smell and identify. We

I stand in the waist-deep spring water, pouring it over my head

walk to the local markets, where farmers from the region arrive as early as 1am to supply hotels and restaurants from around the island with produce.

Later, we take a short drive into the highlands of Bedugul, home to the famous Lake Beratan (also known as Bratan) and its floating Ulun Danu temple, one of Bali’s most picturesque, and featured on the 50,000 rupiah note.

Further up at Wanagiri, in the central north, we get an amazing view of the twin lakes of Buyan and Tamblingan. We’re amused to find locals cashing in by charging

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

TOP TO BOTTOM: Pilgrims at Tirta Empul, shrines at Gunung Kawi Sebatu, central Bali’s famed terraces.

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CLOCKWISE: Thundering Nungnung falls, thriving gardens at Bagus Agro Pelaga, Bali Treetop Adventure Park.

my shoes face yet another test as I set out on my third jungle trek we discover everything from coffee plants and strawberries to asparagus and pineapples, which are picked fresh and served at the on-site restaurant.

It’s here that my shoes face yet another test as I set out on my third jungle trek. The tangled

track takes us into a ravine and out the other side, eventually leading to a village. A local girl agrees to take me into the temple, where I’m blessed by a priest who lights incense, chants and sprinkles water into my upturned hands.

My last adventure in central Bali is one of the best: the trip to Nungnung Waterfall.

After descending about 500 moss-covered steps, we round a bend to be engulfed in the spray of a thundering 50-metre wall of water, pouring out of the jungle into a swirling pool below. Remember to take your swimsuit.

This part of Bali is also the perfect base to do the trek up the Mount Batur volcano, setting off in pitch-black darkness to get to the top for sunrise. However, on this occasion, I’m happy to stay at the resort. I’ve done the trek before, and besides, I don’t have the right shoes.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Bali from across the network To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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PHOTOGRAPHY BALI TREETOP ADVENTURE PARK, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, BAGUS AGRO PELAGA

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tourists to take selfies with Instagrammable props, from giant bird’s nests to jungle swings.

Next is the sprawling Bali Botanic Garden, the biggest in Indonesia, which also contains the Bali Treetop Adventure Park, with its flying foxes and tree-tethered slacklines.

On the way back to the hotel, we stop at another of Bali’s most Insta-famous attractions: the ornate stone gates of the Handara Golf Resort, where I pay the equivalent of a few dollars to take a quick snap.

The next day, we travel east on wet, winding roads to complete our circle in central Bali.

We arrive at the agrotourism resort, Bagus Agro Pelaga, to find we have the 18-hectare property virtually to ourselves. In the gardens

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INDONESIA

Bali

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PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

THREE OUT OF THREE

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MOVE OVER BALI, THE NEARBY NUSA ISLANDS ARE THE NEW GO-TO FOR TRAVELLERS IN THE KNOW WORDS PAUL EWART

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Nusa Lembongan The most well-known of the trio, Lembongan is a collection of beautiful bays and beaches, dramatic limestone cliffs and plush resorts. Added to this is a lack of cars and mainland hustle and bustle, which makes it a destination that affords travellers some serious R&R.

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Paddle power

First discovered by swell-hungry surfers, it’s still luring the likes of Kelly Slater to its shores two decades on. For pros, Lacerations and Shipwrecks breaks on the west coast are as dangerous as their names suggest. The friendlier Playgrounds caters to beginners and experts alike. But perhaps Lembongan’s most famous attraction is Devil’s Tear. A natural rock plateau surrounded by crashing waves, it has a reputation as the best spot for sunset viewing on the island, thanks to its tidal pools that reflect candy-floss-pink clouds. Take your camera and you’re guaranteed snaps that’ll induce Instagram-envy, but bear in mind that Devil’s Tear, like many spots on the islands, is frequently unpatrolled – caution is always recommended around the water.

Back on dry land, surfers and non-surfers alike will appreciate a massage at Lulur Spa. Treatments are designed to complement the island’s environment, so expect traditional Balinese massage and fresh-ingredient facials, all utilising locally produced essential oils and organic seaweed.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A swell time off Nusa Lembongan, lunch with a view at Thai Pantry, a colourful Thai feast, Bondi meets Bali at The Deck Cafe & Bar.

PHOTOGRAPHY THE DECK CAFE & BAR, THAI PANTRY, ALAMY

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here’s no denying the Australian love affair with Bali is still going strong. For decades the Island of the Gods has been earmarked by travellers dreaming of a tropical getaway. But years of rampant tourism have come with a few cons: constant development and congested traffic, to name a couple.

And while visitor numbers are soaring, savvy travellers are taking a breather from the mainland for a more relaxed sun, sand and surf fix.

If you want a glimpse of oldschool Bali, you don’t have to go far. About 20 kilometres (and 30 minutes by fast boat) from the mainland’s south-east coast lie Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Penida. With unspoiled beaches, epic waves, vibrant local culture, and great eats, this trio has an island to suit all tastes.

Want five-star hotels, spectacular surf and lip-smacking cuisine?

Lembongan is your place. Looking for dives in dazzling turquoise waters with more marine life than you can shake a stick at? Head to Penida. Searching for adrenalinepumping, cliff-jumping adventure?

Try Ceningan. Not that you need to confine your stay to just one island, given their super-close proximity – you can hop around all three in one visit with ease.

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dazzling water views and relaxed house tunes intermingle with the sounds of the sea

When it comes to food and drink in the Nusa Islands, Lembongan is the epicentre. The Deck Cafe & Bar channels a Bondi Beach vibe with its dazzling water views, relaxed house tunes intermingling with the sounds of the sea, and a healthy menu of fresh juices, smoothies, gourmet pizzas and salads that cater to hipster diet requirements.

It’s also the only place on the island to serve ice-cold beer on tap.

For no-frills seafood on the beach, head to Nyoman’s Warung.

The best warung (small local eatery) on the islands, this charm-soaked venue serves up unpretentious dishes with a smile. Another great option is the alfresco Thai Pantry.

Also located on the waterfront, it pairs delicious Thai food with expertly mixed cocktails from its Kombi van bar.

For pre- or post-dinner drinks with big-city smarts, a visit to Lembongan’s newest nightlife spot, the Howff, is a must. This Scottishstyle speakeasy – yes, you read that right – is the first of its kind in Bali, let alone on the islands. Positioned on the rocks over the sea, the bar boasts a lengthy menu that includes a plethora of single malts, gins and artisan cocktails concoted with housemade infusions.

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Nusa Penida Though the largest island in the Nusa archipelago, Penida is also the least developed. Here, amazing natural features abound: secluded white beaches, picturesque lagoons, spectacular cliffs, quaint villages, and – best of all – no crowds, making it the perfect destination for those looking to slow things down another notch.

Following a 10-minute boat ride from Lembongan, visitors can

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Come on in, the water 's fine

Getting there FROM BALI Nusa Lembongan is easy to reach from the wharf at Sanur on Bali's southeast.

There are multiple options, but for a journey of only 30 minutes try Rocky Fast Cruises. rockyfastcruise.com

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Dive into the warm waters around the Nusa Islands. BELOW: Discover dreamlike coves on Nusa Penida.

hire scooters to get around. But beware that roads aren’t in the best condition; if you’re at all unsure, hire a driver.

Must-visits include Angel’s Billabong – a natural infinity pool amid dramatic rocky cliffs – and the temple of Goa Giri Putri. One of several holy sites on the island, this limestone cave temple sees a steady stream of pilgrims visiting from the mainland in search of blessings.

You can get an overview of the rich and unique spiritual history of this ‘black magic’ island by joining a Lembongan Holiday cultural tour.

Whether you're an absolute beginner or an experienced diver, the warm seas surrounding Penida are an aquatic playground that host an encyclopedia of marine life, from green turtles to reef sharks.

It’s also one of the best places to see the spectacular sunfish – aka the heaviest recorded bony fish in the world – which can grow to more than two metres long. Off the aptly named Manta Bay, manta rays feed on bountiful plankton.

Critters aside, another reason for diving in is to see the submerged conservation-cum-art project that’s known as ‘Temple Point’ or ‘Buddha Temple’: 30 metres down you’ll encounter a stone statue

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the warm seas surrounding Penida are an aquatic playground garden of large, serene-looking Buddhas surrounded by stupas.

Though its main dive shop is located on Lembongan, Blue Corner Dive organises group and bespoke diving and snorkelling excursions in Penida’s Marine Park. Take the plunge and prepare to be dazzled.

Nusa Ceningan Nestled between Penida and Lembongan, Ceningan is the smallest of the three by far. A happy medium between (relatively) busy Lembongan and undeveloped and sprawling Penida, Ceningan is so compact you can easily power through its main sights in less than a day.

Connected to Lembongan by a precarious-looking yellow ‘Love Bridge’, which can be crossed either on foot or by scooter, getting to Ceningan is an adventure. In fact, getting to the island sets the tone

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Seaweed farms still surround the islands. BELOW LEFT: Crossing the abyss to Ceningan Island Resort.

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for the adrenaline-rush activities to come. If poolside cocktails and day spas don’t cut it and you’d rather get your kicks jumping off cliffs, then Ceningan is for you.

Daredevils can head to Mahana Point, which has supervised fiveand 10-metre jumps available for a small fee.

A bar and clifftop zip-line may seem like a dangerous combo at first glance, but rest assured the booze comes after the leap.

At Ceningan Island Resort, for about $8, thrill-seekers can hurtle

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thrill-seekers can hurtle across an abyss across an abyss 18 metres above the crashing waves, recovering afterwards at the adjacent Driftwood Bar, where use of sun beds and a pretty infinity pool are included in the price.

For a culture hit, take in some of the seaweed farms that surround the island. The industry is huge and, until recently, the majority of locals on Lembongan and Ceningan were involved. Many sprawling farms lie between the two islands.

Post-jumping, there are ample chill-out spots for a sundowner.

Head to the west side of the island where you can grab an ice-cold Bintang while taking in the view of neighbouring Lembongan. At the picturesque Secret Beach, you will involuntarily “ooh” and “ahh” as the sun dips below the horizon.

Regardless of whether you’re a surfer, backpacker or luxury lover, it makes sense to stay on Lembongan and use it as your base for exploring all three islands.

And the best check-in? Batu Karang Lembongan Resort and Day Spa. Occupying a most enviable stretch of real estate, this luxury boutique resort is carved into the hillside overlooking the ocean, and boasts panoramic views of mainland Bali’s east coast with the outline of Mount Agung in the distance.

A frontrunner in transforming the isle from a surfer hang-out to a bona fide holiday destination, the property fuses a traditional Balinese aesthetic with five-star service and some serious attention to detail. A variety of villa and room options are available, many of which come with private plunge pools. batukaranglembongan.com

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Bali from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, CENINGAN ISLAND RESORT

Where to stay

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SUNDAY FUNDAY Skip your hotel’s breakfast buffet, because this is Bali’s best meal of the week WORDS SAMERA KAMALEDDINE

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INDONESIA I BALI

You might have heard it already: the culinary scene in Bali is beyond booming. And a signature feature of its foodie transformation is the notso-humble Sunday brunch.

Endless feasts are washed down with free-flowing drinks packages (dozens of Bloody Mary varieties abound) on an island that appears to be heaving with delicious brunch spreads.

From contemporary favourites to traditional Indonesian flavours, welcome to the best of Bali’s famous brunch scene, where tropical vibes and beach views are served free.

PHOTOGRAPHY SEASALT, W BALI SEMINYAK, THE ELEPHANT, THE SLOW, ULU CLIFFHOUSE, FEAST AT SHERATON

BEST FOR LUXURY SEEKERS STARFISH BLOO AT W BALI, Seminyak For a generous serving of exotic glam, be sure to indulge in this popular Sunday brunch. The chic beach-side setting matches perfectly with the five-star buffet that shows off a mix of flavours.

There’s imported cheeses, babi guling (Balinese roasted pork), oysters and sushi, plus dessert stations (that’s right, more than one). Chase it down with your complimentary prosecco, followed by a dip in the pool. wretreatbali.com

BEST FOR VEGETARIANS THE ELEPHANT, Ubud Enjoy the lush jungle views of the Tjampuhan Ridge, accompanied by a healthy, meat-free feast.

All food at The Elephant is 100 per cent vegetarian, but don’t go thinking it’s anything but delicious – expect sweet potato fritters with yoghurt and olive oil, a Niçoise breakfast salad or polenta porridge with poached fruit and coconut cream. With an à la carte set-up, this casual dining spot is an allergy-free paradise, and the chefs are more than happy to adjust any of their dishes to become gluten-free or vegan. elephantbali.com

BEST FOR FAMILIES

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FEAST AT SHERATON, Bali Kuta Resort Like what you eat? You can buy the ingredients afterwards at this market-themed brunch. ‘Sip, Savour and Shop’ comprises buffet feasting and market shopping, with every brunchgoer invited to take home one kilo of fresh produce from the resort’s fruit and veg stall at no extra cost. Tuck into barbecued seafood and fresh Indonesian dishes. There’s even a fairy floss machine and ice cream station.

But that’s not all kids will enjoy; there’s a play area to keep them entertained, too. sheratonbalikuta.com

Start the day right

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BEST FOR SUSHI LOVERS JI TERRACE BY THE SEA, Canggu Beach The ‘Sunday Brunch by the Sea’ recently launched at this Canggu hotspot boasts a 180-degree view of the Indian Ocean, relaxed tropical tunes and creative Japanese-fusion delicacies. Think sushi rolls with butterfish, avocado and crunchy tempura flakes; wagyu steak and egg; or breakfast udon and prawn tempura. The tastiest part? Everything on the all-you-can-eat menu is made fresh to order. And if you return for drinks at sunset, it’s a pretty ace spot to watch the sky turn every shade of red. jiatbalesutra.com

BEST FOR INSTAGRAMMERS

ULU CLIFFHOUSE, Uluwatu What do you get when a world-renowned Peruvian chef has crafted your brunch menu? A culinary offering that’s culturally diverse, yet also influenced by the Balinese environment. You can expect lots of guacamole, tortillas and spices, paired with a breathtaking outlook from this uber-pretty beach club perched atop the cliffs of Uluwatu on the island’s south. If the oceanview-for-days isn’t enough fodder for your Instagram, the sleek interiors and interesting and elegant food styling from chef Diego Muñoz will rack up the likes. ulucliffhouse.com

BEST FOR ECO WARRIORS

THE SLOW, Canggu Surround yourself in earthy tones and a rotating art collection inside this restaurant, hotel and gallery space for the ‘Sound Bites’ Sunday brunch.

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BEST FOR VALUE HUNTERS

The emphasis is on what’s in season, with feel-good degustation options including wok-fried barley with egg, cauliflower, spinach, ginger and mushrooms; or smoked mahi-mahi hash with poached egg and hollandaise. Bloody Alice – the Slow’s version of a Bloody Mary – will give you some spark, thanks to a mix of spiced vodka and chilli paste. theslow.id

AZUL BEACH CLUB, Legian Load up on some serious barbecue for your buck within an open-air bamboo treehouse (with sweeping ocean vistas across Legian Beach, of course). Azul’s ‘Sunday Barbecue Brunch’ offers an impressive selection of sides and salads infused with Balinese flavours, but the full-bellied goodness comes from the epic mains that range from coriander-cured roasted lamb leg and thyme-garlic roasted beef rump, to squid skewers and baby lobsters.

Hello, food coma. azulbali.com

BEST FOR SEAFOOD BUFFS

SEASALT, Seminyak Bali is famed for its fresh (and affordable) seafood, so when better to sample it than your first meal of the day? The ‘Coastal Munch’ brunch at this beachfront hotel dishes up boat-loads of ocean cuisine including ceviche, prawns, oysters (shucked at your table by the chef!), as well as a smoked salmon station.

‘Unlimited-to-order’ seafood and sparkling wine – now that’s worth getting out of a comfy bed for. seasaltseminyak.com

Travel Info

TOP TO BOTTOM: Japanese eats with a Balinese view at Ji Terrace by the Sea, plating up is an artform at Ulu Cliffhouse, brunch gets a hip makeover at The Slow in Canggu.

Jetstar has great low fares to Bali from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY JI TERRACE BY THE SEA, ULU CLIFFHOUSE, THE SLOW

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VICTORIA

Melbourne

Winding roads

Great Ocean Road

Take a drive down the Great Ocean Road. It’s an adventure all ages will savour WORDS CATHERINE BEST

PHOTO GREAT OCEAN ROAD REGIONAL TOURISM LTD

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riverless cars can’t come soon enough in Victoria because the Great Ocean Road – with its vertiginous cliffs, hairpin bends and ocean-hugging passes – demands eyes on the road at all times. But those jaw-dropping vistas are mighty distracting. One of the world’s great coastal drives, the ‘GOR’ carves a spectacular path through rugged headlands, twisting valleys, lush forests and green pastures that tumble down to the Bass Strait.

The 243km road from Torquay to Allansford, near Warrnambool, is a roadtripping honey pot of sights and delights the whole family will enjoy. Here are a handful not to be missed.

Discover long, empty beaches – such as Kennett River Beach between Lorne and Torquay – all along the Great Ocean Road.

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Waiting for waves

PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT VICTORIA, LIVE WIRE PARK, ANGLESEA GOLF CLUB, GREAT OCEAN ROAD REGIONAL TOURISM LTD

SURF’S UP, TORQUAY Once you’ve checked out the fearsome swell at Bells Beach, the home of Australian surfing and venue for the Rip Curl Pro world championships, drop into the Australian National Surfing Museum. Here, you can learn about the history of the sport, see vintage and experimental boards, find your hero in the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame and be snapped riding the barrel of a monster wave. Be a pawn in a giant game of snakes and ladders, marvel at epic surfing images and videos, and wince at ghastly injury tales while the kids hang in the sandpit.

australiannationalsurfingmuseum.com

KANGAS ON THE COURSE, ANGLESEA Golf. “Boring!” yell the kids. But not at Anglesea Golf Club, which is famous for the 300-odd eastern grey kangaroos that roam the fairways and greens. Set amid natural bushland, the club runs halfhour kangaroo tours and features an 18-hole mini golf course. The clubhouse balcony is a great spot

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for a late afternoon sundowner, when the roos really come out to play. While in Anglesea, make sure you have a dip at the kid-safe Point Roadknight beach and a paddle in the Anglesea River.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Gone surfing on the ‘GOR’, a visitor on the Anglesea Golf Club, in the treetops at Live Wire Park.

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angleseagolfclub.com.au

TREETOP THRILLS, LORNE Ever wondered what it’s like to hurtle through the treetops at 35km/h? Here’s your chance. At the new Live Wire Park, set amid soaring blue gums in the Lorne hinterland, you can fly through the forest on a 525m zip coaster (one of only four in the world). Open since March, the park offers high-rope thrills and adrenaline-pumping ziplines thanks to 50 tonnes of wires and ropes suspended in the forest. Test your mettle on the Super Circuit with its suspended bridges, tree-scaling obstacles, Tarzan swing and QuickJump bungee. There’s a short circuit and canopy walk for the kids. Get back down to earth at the nearby Erskine Falls in the Great Otway National Park, and don’t miss Teddy’s Lookout as you head out of town.

livewirepark.com.au

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An experience above all else

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MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA

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Surveying my turf

CLOCKWISE: Fish ‘n’ chips on the beach at Apollo Bay, a sleepy local, poolside at BIG4 Apollo Bay, explore the Cape Otway Lightstation.

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PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT VICTORIA , GREAT OCEAN ROAD REGIONAL TOURISM, BIG4 APOLLO BAY

SLEEP ON IT, APOLLO BAY Hit the hay in Apollo Bay, a great midway base for exploring the GOR and the Otway Ranges. The BIG4 Apollo Bay Pisces Holiday Park is tucked on a hillside overlooking the beach and has a pool, resident koala and squeal-inducing kids’ playground, complete with flying fox and a modular pump track for skateboards and bicycles. There’s family friendly accommodation to suit all budgets, from unpowered campsites to top-of-the range ocean villas. Splurge on the latter and wake to the sound of crashing waves, soak in the spa bath and enjoy ocean vistas on your deck. Watch fishing boats unload their catch on the pier, tuck into fresh seafood at the Fishermen’s Co-op or enjoy a meal at the lively Great Ocean Road Brewhouse, featuring more than 100 craft brews, a large beer garden and a kids’ play corner.

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LIGHTHOUSE LOWDOWN, CAPE OTWAY On the blustery clifftops of Cape Otway, 90 metres above the ocean, stands Australia’s oldest surviving and most significant lighthouse.

Built in 1848 and decommissioned in 1994, the Cape Otway Lightstation had a powerful beam that could be seen from 48km away. The life-saving structure was built after hundreds of people perished at sea on Victoria’s infamous Shipwreck Coast while trying to ‘thread the eye of the needle’ between Cape Otway and King Island, 90km to the south. Climb the 78 steps of the lighthouse for spine-tingling views up and down the coast, explore a World War II radar bunker and learn about the early lighthouse keepers and their families, Indigenous culture and dinosaur fossils discovered nearby.

lightstation.com

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The water’s fine

Fun in the summertime

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Just west of the Great Ocean Road’s most famous attraction – the 12 Apostles, of which only eight mesmerising limestone stacks remain – you will find Loch Ard Gorge. Arguably the coastline’s most dramatic and chilling landmark is the site where ill-fated clipper the Loch Ard was wrecked off the coast of Muttonbird Island in 1878; after three months at sea and just one day before it was due to dock in Melbourne. Only two of the 54 souls on board survived. Descend the steps onto the picturesque beach where debris from the Loch Ard was piled more than two metres high. Visit the graves of the victims in the nearby cemetery, listen to the rumble of the ocean pounding inside Thunder Cave, and see the blowhole where victims of the shipwreck washed through a colossal underground channel. To learn more about the Loch Ard, visit the Port Campbell Visitor Information Centre, where you can borrow binoculars, windmonitoring equipment and treasurehunting gear for the kids.

visit12apostles.com.au

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FOREST FUN, OTWAYS Make a pitstop at the Timboon Cheesery and nearby ice-creamery before slowly making your way back towards the big smoke. Head inland at Lavers Hill for lungfuls of fresh Otways air, walk through ancient forests and absorb the healthrestoring negative ions at Triplet Falls. Hire a bike and explore a section of the Old Beechy Rail Trail, a 45km track through scenic forest and farmland. From here you can take the speedy inland route via Colac to Melbourne or hook back onto the GOR. You know which has my vote.

Triplet Falls hemmed in by green.

ABOVE: Paddles in Loch Ard Gorge.

PIER TO PUB SWIM Lorne, 12 January 2019 CADEL EVANS GREAT OCEAN ROAD RACE Geelong to Torquay, 24-27 January 2019 APOLLO BAY SEAFOOD FESTIVAL February 2019, date TBA

Travel info Jetstar has great fares to Avalon and Melbourne from across the network, plus car-hire packages.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT VICTORIA, GREAT OCEAN ROAD REGIONAL TOURISM

SHIPWRECK REFLECTIONS, PORT CAMPBELL

Line up your stay on the Great Ocean Road and join the crowds at these iconic local festivals: FALLS FESTIVAL Lorne, 28-31 December 2018

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WESTERN AUSTRALIA Perth

WEST

Albany

Albany and the Great Southern region share natural wildness and human wonder

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PHOTOGRAPHY THE AMAZING SOUTH COAST

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Stay a while

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PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, PREMIER MILL

lbany has a palpable sense of history: the last sight of Australia for many Anzacs as they departed for World War I, it also saw the end of the often-brutal Australian whaling industry. The Mineng people, whose lands took in a vast swathe of the region, including Nornalup to the west, the commanding Stirling Ranges and the ethereal Porongurup National Park, named it Kinjarling or ‘the place of rain’.

It’s an apt descriptor.

My visits to Albany are often greeted by a heavy, grey horizon, rain, then glimpses of a deep-blue sky. As an Englishman, you migrate to Australia for bright, sunny days, but tones of grey, from silver to slate, now delight me.

The straight drive down the Albany Highway from Perth is, for many, pure necessity. Punctuating the 415km journey with Wheatbelt roadhouses, rest stops and detours is part of the experience.

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PICTURED AND INSET: The Premier Mill Hotel will put Katanning on the map. BELOW: Local institution Liberte.

These may include a sausage roll and coffee top-up in The William’s Woolshed, rummaging through an op shop in Wagin, or a detour to Lake Dumbleyung, where Brit Donald Campbell broke a world water-speed record in a bright blue hydroplane in 1964.

For a moment the tiny town shone in the global media spotlight.

An overnight stay in Katanning breaks the five-hour drive, but could easily stretch to two nights. The newly opened Premier Mill Hotel is an inspired heritage restoration, with 22 rooms interwoven with the building’s history, from silo rooms

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The Great Southern region has a growing gourmet reputation with high, timber walls to mill machinery overhead. While heritage is at its core, modern design is key. Noted Fremantle architect Michael Patroni was brought in to ensure the development compared with boutique properties across Australia, and internationally.

The Great Southern region owes its growing gourmet reputation to a trinity of amazing produce, cool-climate winemakers and talented chefs such as Amy Hamilton, of the

nationally recognised Liberte inside Albany’s historic London Hotel.

Amy’s take on FrenchVietnamese fusion has become a reason in itself to travel here, hitting national best restaurant lists. A taste of this vast region is on offer to those who visit the London Hotel, thanks to the venue’s relationships with local growers and winemakers. The front bar is the place to settle in and take advantage of the locally focused wine list, the beer from

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PHOTOGRAPHY ELEMENTS MARGARET RIVER / PARRY BEACH BREAKS, TOURISM WESTERN N AUSTRALIA, ALBANY FARMERS MARKET

Flipping out!

local microbrewery Wilson Brewing Company, or a cocktail from renowned bartender (and venue manager) Keryn Giles.

Those looking to get hands-on with the region’s produce should head to the Albany Farmer’s Market on Collie Street on Saturday, or the Albany Boatshed Markets on Sunday.

Breakfast in Albany takes another French twist at Gourmandise & Co, where Xavier Poupel, a chef who has spent

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his career travelling the world, has opened a café-cum-bakery that exudes his Gallic upbringing. Great Southern influences include a long, communal table made from local jarrah wood.

Denmark, a 40-minute drive down the coast to the west, boasts spectacular beaches, coastal walks, cellar doors and restaurants. On Strickland Street, Stomp’d, a wine bar with an open kitchen pushing housemade pasta and charcuterie plates, is a good stop to get to know smaller winemakers, such as La Violetta, Brave New Wine and Express Winemakers.

I favour a stay just outside Denmark, close to Greens Pool in the William Bay National Park, a sheltered bay

TOP TO BOTTOM: The race is on to Parry Beach, azure bays off William Bay National Park, get fresh at Albany Farmer’s Market.

pull your trailer under the shade of a peppermint tree, minutes from the beach

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hemmed in by large rocks on this sometimesperilous coast. Parry Beach offers the chance to pitch your tent, or pull your trailer under the shade of a peppermint tree, minutes from the beach. For those looking for home comforts, Parry Beach Breaks has a handful of oceanfacing chalets.

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again, but the natural wildness of the region is what lingers in the memory – a coastal walk, or an inland hike up Bluff Knoll. The hike, which reaches 1095 metres above sea level, is of moderate difficulty. Bluff Knoll is the highest peak in the Stirling Ranges and one of the highest in Western Australia, but it’s more than just a physical challenge; it’s a chance to view more than 1000 species of wildflowers and flora that thrive at their finest between August and November.

It’s hard to not feel insignificant here, in the best of ways. For

There’s a power here to the land and the ocean

anyone looking to slow down, get perspective and be more present, the Great Southern is mindfulness in action.

My advice? Switch off, walk a deserted beach, spend time at the summit of Bluff Knoll, and take a dip with the hardy locals at Greens Pool. There’s a power here to the land and the ocean – it’s like nature’s stop sign.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Perth from across the network and car-hire packages.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM WESTERN N AUSTRALIA, THE AMAZING SOUTH COAST, HERMITAGE MUSEUM / BRUCE MUNRO STUDIO

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Back in Albany, the National Anzac Centre at the heritage-listed Princess Royal Fortress overlooks King George Sound where more than 41,000 men and women left for World War I. A century later, the stories are as poignant as ever. An ephemeral landscape installation Field of Light: Avenue of Honour will run here between October this year and April next. The installation, made up of thousands of white, yellow and gold lights, is the work of renowned British artist Bruce Munro, who brought Field of Light to Uluru to much acclaim. It draws inspiration from the wattle and the kowhai, the national flowers of Australia and New Zealand.

In reimagining the concept for Albany, Bruce says: “It is too easy for our generation to forget the sacrifices that were made [and] it is difficult to attribute the freedoms that we take for granted today to a war that ended 100 years ago. To be given an opportunity to create a work in remembrance of the Anzacs is a wonderful honour and a privilege.”

The human elements of Albany and the wider Great Southern draw me back time and

TOP TO BOTTOM: Lose yourself in stories at the National Anzac Centre, wild coastal scenes, Bruce Munro’s ethereal installations.

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AN ALL-INCLUSIVE SNOW HOLIDAY IN JAPAN IS A GREAT WAY TO LEARN TO SKI — AT ANY AGE

Mt Tomamu

JAPAN

WORDS LACHEAN HUMPHREYS Tokyo

PHOTOGRAPHY ©HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU, CLUB MED TOMAMU

THRILLS & SPILLS

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Meeting Mt Tomamu It’s true that the snow falls differently in Japan – each perfectly formed snowflake settles prettily on my gloves as I ride up the magic carpet, kitted out in my hired ski gear and ready to give learning to ski my best shot, for a second time.

Tomamu, on Japan’s northernmost main island of Hokkaido, is one of the nation’s most popular ski destinations, averaging 14 metres of

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snow per season. It’s part of the Hokkaido Powder Belt, made up of seven areas prized for their fresh, dry powder.

Managed by Hoshino Resorts, Tomamu is known for its familyfriendly facilities and touted as a great place to learn snow sports.

One gondola and five lifts service the resort’s 29 slopes (half are intermediate; more than a third are beginner), making it perfect for all ages and abilities. And, in this case, a terrified beginner skier.

Tomamu offers hassle-free, ski-in ski-out access to slopes from resorts – so no lengthy bus rides, tedious lines to purchase lift passes or the cumbersome task of lugging all your things to and from a locker.

I ride up the magic carpet, kitted out in my hired ski gear and ready to give learning to ski my best shot

PHOTOGRAPHY ©HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU, CLUB MED TOMAMU

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t’s twilight, in July, and I’m looking straight up at the twinkling sky. But unhappily, it’s a bad time to take in the tranquillity because I’m lying in the icy snow of a green run, sans one ski and both ski poles.

When my friend skis up beside me, my missing equipment tucked under her arm, I’m in the process of rocking myself upright with one unwieldy ski still on.

“That was fine for your first go,” she says. But I’m out – trudging down the slope on foot, ready for a mulled wine and defeated by not being able to effortlessly excel at snow sports in my 20s.

That was three years ago. And probably the only person more surprised than her is me when I front up to a ski resort in Japan.

Learning the ropes From experience, I can safely say there is much to be said for lessons.

This was proved fairly immediately when my instructor gently let me

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Shelter from the snow

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Soak up snowy scenes from the onsen, Hokkaido under a dusting of powder, ready to ride in Tomamu, sleep off a busy day in Club Med’s suites, vallley views.

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know I’d put my boots on incorrectly and helped adjust them.

I stayed in the area’s newest lodgings, Club Med Tomamu, where group skiing and snowboarding lessons are included, catering to a range of skill levels and ages. Over three days, I started in beginner classes and advanced as far as level two (although, there’s much more to learn from there).

My group’s first lesson was getting a handle on the basics: standing, moving and stopping. By lesson two that afternoon, we were tackling turning and navigating our way around marker poles in the beginner area.

The instructors were tremendously patient,

happy to explain things more than once (needed) and encouraged us to practise core skills many times over.

By the second day (lesson three), when instructor Chris said he was happy to take our group out on the mountain, I was feeling relatively confident I wouldn’t repeat my first green-run attempt.

The lessons didn’t stop once we were on the mountain but continued throughout the day as we took it in turns to practise turns and control our speed. By day’s end, I could ski down the green run on my own.

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An all-inclusive experience Those not used to hours of skiing or snowboarding over consecutive days will probably find themselves needing to rest and recoup. Staying in an all-inclusive resort means you can take advantage of on-site restaurants, lounges and low-key offpiste activities.

Club Med Tomamu splits over three floors – the bottom level dominated by a genuine white birch tree (one of the resort’s top Instagrammable spots).

The communal lounge area on the third floor has a library nook featuring a wall-to-wall bookshelf, cocktail bar and stage.

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At play in the Ice Village.

BELOW: Develop a taste for Japanese whisky.

Off the slopes There are plenty of options for solo relaxation and group outings at Tomamu that don’t involve being on the slopes.

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Getting to the mountain

Yoga classes and a gym are on offer within the resort and Mina Mina Beach – the largest indoor wave pool in Japan – is just a few minutes’ walk away. The real attraction here though is the beautiful onsen, where a steaming outdoor bath faces the snowy landscape and you can watch the snowflakes fall as you soak.

The nearby Ice Village is also a novelty, featuring carved ice creations including snow huts with fur-decked bedding and couches, and an ice bar with themed cocktails served in ice glasses.

Adventure-lovers can go ice trekking, or, for a more leisurely option, take the gondola up to the Unkai Terrace for a spectacular view over the slopes and resorts.

There are plenty of options for solo relaxation and group outings After spending time at Tomamu, I might not be pegged as a late-blooming talent for the Winter Olympics, but another ski holiday is definitely on the cards.

WHERE Mount Tomamu is in central Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost main island – a two-hour drive from Sapporo airport.

WHEN The Japanese ski season is from late December to early April.

WHAT’S INCLUDED AT CLUB MED TOMAMU • Accommodation • Ski-lift passes • Group lessons • All meals in resort,and selected altitude restaurants • Open bar, including beer, wine, spirits, cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages • Kids Club from 4 years • Evening entertainment • Non-ski activities WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED • Private lessons are extra, starting at 2800 yen (around $35) for two hours per person, with a discount for extra people.

• For those travelling without their own gear, the rental shop is stocked with a range of ski and snowboard equipment, and they’ll pop it in your locker ready for when you arrive.

COST Seven nights from $2350 per person.

Travel Info Jetstar has great fares to Sapporo with connections via Jetstar Japan.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ©HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU, CLUB MED TOMAMU

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There are cosy armchairs and luxurious daybeds – ideal spots to enjoy a coffee during the day and take in views out floor-to-ceiling windows. By night we’re treated to musicians, singers, dancers and DJs, with many of the ski instructors doubling as performers.

The resort’s main restaurant, Itara – a buffet-style dining hall with French, Chinese, Korean and Japanese corners – dominates the second floor. There are French fries and Hawaiian pizzas for little ones, but the standout meals over my stay were a succulent crab prepared to order and a delightfully rich kimchi spaghetti from the Korean corner.

Glass-walled, highceilinged bar The Nest offers a more intimate experience and a chance to sample whisky (including Yamazaki 12 Year Old) and sake while snow falls all around.

Speciality restaurant Haku provides another option, with an authentic yakiniku barbecue.

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Selfie central

104 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sundown selfies on Long Jetty, sashimi at Fishermen’s Wharf, paddle in at Toowoon Bay, chomp on sustainable seafood at Fish Dining.

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Natural beauty, a laidback lifestyle and a new sophistication draw visitors to this pocket of NSW

COAST WITH THE MOST

PHOTOGRAPHY CENTRAL COAST COUNCIL, DESTINATION NSW / ANDREW COONEY, FISH DINING, NIKKI TO, DESTINATION NSW / KEN LEANFORE

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PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW / HAMILTON LUND, CENTRAL COAST COUNCIL, ALAMY

T

here was a time when the oncesleepy NSW Central Coast was overlooked in favour of cooler coastal destinations further north, such as Byron Bay. Despite being blessed with a magnificent coastline, secluded inlets and a beautiful hinterland, it wasn’t a place one aspired to holiday. Maybe a weekend away at Pearl Beach, or Terrigal, but the Entrance, Long Jetty and Woy Woy? These were places to avoid, especially after dark.

Now the Central Coast – a little more than an hour's drive from both Sydney and Newcastle – is reinventing itself with cool cafés, sophisticated coastal dining, rooftop bars, and vintage and bohemian shopping.

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Lifestyle and location “You won’t recognise Long Jetty,” a friend who decamped to the coast from Sydney tells me before I holiday in Toowoon Bay. As we take a seat at the Green Tangerine along the busy main thoroughfare heading to The Entrance, I realise she’s right. It feels as though I’m at a cool café in Melbourne’s north or Sydney’s inner west. The food, coffee and service are excellent – delivered with a smile – and you can’t leave without buying a loaf of wonderful housebaked sourdough.

Across the road is The Glass Onion Society, another hip café, and next door is Modern Organic where cool mums wearing designer yoga outfits duck in for a quick

107 FROM TOP: Pearl Beach dazzles, walk a while in up-and-coming Long Jetty, make feathered friends at The Entrance.

You won’t recognise Long Jetty

class after dropping the kids at school.

Often referred to as the ‘Newtown of the Central Coast’, Long Jetty is unrecognisable from its former, downat-heel self. Meghan and Dominic Loneragan, of travel and lifestyle blog Citizens of the World, could not be happier with their decision to leave Sydney for a seachange.

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“We happened to have a friend who moved here and fell in love with the burgeoning creative community and spirit,” says Meghan.

The couple continue to discover more and more to love about the Central Coast. “It feels like there’s always a new boutique or café opening, and we love walking down the strip in the mornings and waving to the locals.”

Neighbouring Toowoon Bay boasts a swoonworthy horseshoe-shaped beach and a small cluster of cute shops including Bay Organics and Flour & Co., which serves great pastries and coffee.

The Block stars Kyal and Kara Demmrich have based themselves here, maintaining a coastal-chic studio apartment available through Airbnb, just a short walk from the shops and sand. On the northern end of the coast

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you’ll find cycle trails by the lake, three long jetties that jut out into Tuggerah Lake and an unspoiled, uncrowded coastline (including dogfriendly beaches). Nearby Norah Head is perfect for a swim or a walk to the lighthouse.

The Loneragans, who have a toddler, say sunsets at Long Jetty’s longest jetty are popular with families. “We recommend grabbing some fish and chips and finding a spot on the grass. That way you can make a date out of it and meet new people at the same time,” Meghan says.

Seismic shift Further south, Woy Woy – once optimistically described as the ‘Venice of Australia' and formerly best known for being the adopted home of comedian Spike Milligan – is another village undergoing a seismic

shift. Visit Young Barons for house-made gelato and memorable pasta.

Its young owners, chef Dannielle Mills and bartender and musician Bryce Gleeson met while working at boutique local hotel and restaurant Bells at Killcare.

Woy Woy Fishermen’s Wharf, with its plum waterfront position on Brisbane Waters, has long been a local icon. Its stylish transformation includes a bar where you can watch the resident pelicans with a pinot gris in hand. The fresh, sustainable seafood served at this family-run restaurant, with its cute crab-pot lights and fishtrap centrepiece, comes straight from trawler to plate. Sam Clayton, the owner’s son, grew up on the Central Coast and moved away but returned to work in the family business started by his grandparents from

PHOTOGRAPHY BAY ORGANICS, YOUNG BARONS, FLOUR & CO / SHOT BY GRACE, NIKKI TO

CLOCKWISE: Sip on Blue Mermaid and Red Velvet lattes at Bay Organics, rent this minimalist Toowoon Bay retreat, lunch at Young Barons, Flour & Co.’s coffee, simple pleasures at Fishermen’s Wharf.

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see all the way to Bondi.

Palm Beach looks so close you could almost reach out and touch it.

Nearby is the renowned Bells at Killcare, the meeting place of another talented couple, hospitality professional Hayley and chef Cameron Cansdell. Cameron is owner and head chef at the popular Bombini at Avoca, with its laidback long-lunch feel and in-house Bombini Pizza; and Fish Dining, which offers sustainable seafood overlooking Brisbane Waters at Point Frederick. The entrepreneurial couple is behind the Central Coast Cooking School, where you can learn to prepare everything from seafood to gnocchi. They’ve also recently partnered with businessman John Singleton in a new multi-million-dollar eatery and country bakehouse, Saddles.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Homestead chic at Saddles, in the lap of luxury at Bells at Killcare, Bombini’s pizzas in Avoca.

Saddles' design mimics a quintessential Australian homestead set on 28 acres of bushland and is the perfect spot to either start or finish your Central Coast getaway.

Cameron describes the cuisine as “Australiana focused”, inspired by childhood road trips when his family would stop at regional bakeries for a pie, sausage roll or sweet treat. The menu recreates Australian pastry classics using premium, seasonal ingredients. “Saddles delivers an earthy, honest venue where the landscape inspires the culinary story. It’s an incredible spot that lets diners feel like they’re in

the middle of the bush, a million miles from care, yet we’re only minutes off the motorway,” Cameron says.

So next time you’re heading north of Sydney (or south of Newcastle) be sure to explore the charming Central Coast.

The laidback lifestyle still reigns, but there’s now an added youthful energy pulsing through the fishing villages and cool coastal towns.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney and Newcastle from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY SADDLES, BELLS AT KILLCARE, BOMBINI RESTAURANT & BAR

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Taylor’s Boat Shed in the mid-1970s.

Like Sam, dynamic duo Rupert Noffs and Matty Bennett have also returned to the Central Coast to open The Lucky Bee at Frankie’s Rooftop in Woy Woy. Matty worked at Sydney’s Longrain before the pair opened The Lucky Bee in New York in 2016 and built a cult following for their Thai-fusion cuisine.

Rupert’s family hails from the Central Coast and, like many with fond memories of growing up here, he has returned, bringing a slice of New York with him.

The southern end of the coast is known as The Peninsula and, aside from the abundance of new places to eat and slake your thirst, it’s where you’ll find the beautiful Bouddi National Park.

One of the fantastic coastal bushwalks takes you to the Marie Byles Lookout, where you can

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Awaiting outside your room is a swimming pool, children’s splash zone and waterpark, kids club, daily activities program and more to keep the younger ones entertained as well as a selection of dining and entertainment options for the adults which offers all guests a place to relax and unwind without ever having to leave.

Driven by the philosophy ‘We Don’t Do Ordinary’ The Ruby Collection offers a complete holiday experience in a place where you can expect the unexpected.

Gold Coast Luxury Holiday Apartments

Opening November 2018

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PHOTOGRAPHY ZACHARY STAINES

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It’s time to shine for this city in the sun WORDS MATT SHEA

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Brisbane is having a moment

FROM SUNRISE Anyone who’s witnessed Queensland’s capital at first light understands Brisbane is a morning city. It makes sense, then, that it boasts some excellent coffee haunts and cafés.

Caffeine fiends know the CBD is where to go for good beans. If you’re wandering towards the City Botanic Gardens, call in at Coffee Anthology; generally regarded as the yardstick for Brisbane’s

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PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, COFFEE ANTHOLOGY, FLORIAN GROHN, MICROLOT

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o one used to come to Brisbane.

It once seemed the only travellers you encountered at the airport were headed for the departure gates, one-way tickets in-hand.

But then something changed. Maybe it was the late ’80s demise of the corrupt Joh Bjelke-Petersen government. Or, more recently, the 2006 opening of the Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA). Or better state and local legislation paving the way for more independent cafés, dynamic restaurants, and cutting-edge galleries and cultural events.

Either way, Brisbane is having a moment. It no longer spreads out endlessly like the urban sprawler of old. Instead, it shoots up, new high-rise developments activating precincts for locals to live in and explore. It’s helping mould a very different metropolis – “Australia’s new world city” firmly focused on asserting itself as a vibrant hub of the Asia Pacific region.

Now, people are coming to Brisbane. Here’s what they find.

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CLOCKWISE: Morning sun in Microlot, explore new precincts such as King Street, Morning After, bean fiends at Coffee Anthology, Brisbane aglow.

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specialty brew scene.

“Brisbane is really laid-back and that’s created a very co-operative industry,” owner Adam Wang says. “Coffee in this city definitely has its own character.”

Coffee Anthology sets itself apart by showcasing a lengthy roster of the country’s most acclaimed roasters, expertly prepared by the café’s hotshot baristas. “You can come in and try three or four different roasters you’d otherwise have to travel for,” Adam says.

If you have a hankering for the best local beans, head beyond the city to Parallel Roasters’ recently opened Albion café – it’s a great excuse to explore a rapidly gentrifying part of town.

South of the river, Microlot – a tiny hide-out in wellto-do Hawthorne – owns a

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Colombian farm that produces its beans.

But the heroes of Brisbane’s burbs are the breakfast cafés.

Fortitude Valley’s King Arthur, situated in an old aircraft hangar just off the shady shopping boulevard of James Street, is arguably the best in town right now. And Naïm’s Middle Eastern menu is a great excuse to explore Paddington in the west. Across the river, opt for Morning After’s rulebreaking breakfast carbonara before rolling down the hill to explore Davies Park Market — a sprawling Saturday go-to for locals stocking up on fresh produce.

TO SUNSET Just as the sun rises early in Brisbane, so too does it disappear early. It might mean forgoing long twilight suppers,

but the pay-off is a restaurant and bar scene with a moody, vital pulse.

Driving a surge in new venues are the residential towers that continue to sprout along the city’s fringes. They bring with them new food and

drink outfits, generating lively precincts. Newstead’s Haven development and King Street in Bowen Hills are must-visit destinations, but the very best is Fish Lane. Every night, well-heeled locals wander this South Brisbane laneway

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ON ONTHE THE ESPLANADE ESPLANADE IN CAIRNS IN CAIRNS •• Open Open every every night night from from 4:30pm 4:30pm to 11pm to• 11pm •

· Food · Food court court openopen from 10am from every 10amday! every day! for for the the bestbest pricedpriced food infood townin town · Night · Night Markets Markets Open Open from (4:30pm from (4:30pm to 11pm to 11pm · Car · Car parking parking upstairs upstairs above Night aboveMarkets Night Markets $1.00 per hr $1.00 per hr · Approximately · Approximately 2.5 million 2.5 million people visit people the Cairns visit the Night Cairns Markets Night eachMarkets year each year · Come · Come and and see an see amazing an amazing mix of 70 mix retail of 70 market retail stalls market offering stalls everything offering everything from from a massage, a massage, haircuthaircut or delicious or delicious Chinese self-serve Chinese food self-serve food · Tour · Tour groups groups welcome welcome

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Molto bene!

Delicious plates meet million-dollar views at Otto. BELOW: Minimalist interiors and libations at Gauge.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO, GAUGE

for the classy Vietnamese of Hello Please or chic Italian at Julius Pizzeria. Just around the corner is Gauge, its tasting menu an imperative Brisbane dinner experience.

In the more seasoned parts of town, the award-winning Urbane remains a CBD focal point with its fabulous plant-based degustation, while Sydney import Otto sets its Amalfiinspired Italian to eye-popping views of the Story Bridge.

For eats that double as an entree to getting wild, head instead to Fortitude Valley. Here, things are fast-paced, casual but very, very good … if you know

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where to look. There’s Longtime, where exceptional Thai food is matched to a precise wine list. Likewise, the enormously popular Happy Boy, at the far end of the Valley, brings locals flocking for its keenly priced dishes of provincial-style Chinese cuisine. Sometimes, though, it’s simply about a quick pitstop before heading to a club – in which case, seek out the much-loved Ben’s Burgers, a hip, community-minded burger joint hidden on Winn Lane.

The Valley is famous for powering on late into the night with its array of bars, clubs and live-music venues. Generally, the closer you are to Brunswick Street Mall, the giddier things get.

Savile Row is perhaps the pick right now. The five separate levels of this tiny, woodpanelled bolthole wind around a chandelier-lit central bar that boasts more than 900 different spirits. Don’t be afraid to lean on the bar staff’s experience here – they’re some of the best in the country.

THE MORNING AFTER Of course, it is Brisbane’s cultural scene that has grabbed

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Otto sets its Amalfi-inspired Italian to eye-popping views the most headlines in recent years. Leading the way is QAGOMA (as GOMA is known when paired with the older Queensland Art Gallery). A bellwether for Brisbane’s push to become an international city, its combined collection of artwork from Asia and the Pacific is generally regarded

as the best in the world.

“It’s been a game-changer for the whole city,” says QAGOMA deputy director Simon Elliott. “It can put on such impressive and ambitious exhibitions.”

GOMA built its name on blockbuster shows by Andy Warhol, Picasso and Matisse, as well as its signature Asia

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BRISBANE’S BEST DAY TRIPS BREAK UP A CITY STAY WITH A DRIVE OUT TO THESE REGIONAL GEMS

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Heritage becomes hip at Ovolo Incholm. BELOW: James Turrell’s new installation lights up GOMA.

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Pacific Triennial. But Simon thinks the true test of the gallery’s success is that people simply arrive without knowing what’s exhibiting.

Elsewhere, the Museum of Brisbane regularly shines a light on the city’s history, while the Queensland Ballet has become an international drawcard under the artistic direction of Li Cunxin (ballet icon and bestselling author of Mao’s Last Dancer).

Brisbane’s cultural calendar reaches a crescendo each September (8-29 this year) with the Brisbane Festival, a city-wide extravaganza of music, dance and theatre. It’s a great excuse for a trip north.

STAY A WHILE That newfound cultural capital has also inspired a fresh wave of

brilliant hotels. Most notable has been W Brisbane, the city’s first five-star opening in 20 years, a flashy edifice helping reawaken a sleepy corner of the CBD. Another is the five-star Emporium Hotel South Bank, which opened last month, followed by The Calile this month, which is promising to create a sub-tropical playground in the heart of James Street.

One of the best new hotels is Ovolo Inchcolm. Set inside a heritage-listed former medical practice in Spring Hill, this art-filled property not only sits between Fortitude Valley and the city, but also Brisbane’s past and its future.

“Through the cultural changes in Brisbane people are realising there’s a need for more experiential hotels,” says Stephen Howard, Ovolo director of marketing. “Brisbane is no longer a stop on your way to the reef. It’s a destination in its own right.”

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Brisbane from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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2 Head south-west to the primordial Scenic Rim. Bushwalk at Cunningham’s Gap before lunching at Kooroomba Vineyards and Lavender Farm.

3 Cross the bay to North Stradbroke Island and the beguiling seaside town of Point Lookout, with its beautiful beaches.

4 Take the back roads through Dayboro and the Blackall Range to discover the charming mountain village of Maleny. It’s a spectacular drive.

5 Travel south-west to climb Mount Glorious, stopping for a picnic lunch at Wivenhoe Outlook with its stunning views across Wivenhoe Dam.

PHOTOGRAPHY OVOLO INCHCOLM, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND. ARTWORK FAR LEFT JAMES TURRELL NIGHT LIFE 2018 AT GOMA, PHOTOGRAPHY NATASHA HARTH, QAGOMA

Drive south along Mount Lindesay Highway to Tamborine Mountain, a thriving hilltop town boasting cafes, microbreweries and bushwalks.

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brisbane festival, opera queensland, philip bacon am, queensland performing arts centre and queensland symphony orchestra present

peter grimes

20 & 22 SEPT

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“Stuart Skelton is the best Peter Grimes I’ve ever seen...” the spectator, uk

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26–29 Sept

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Crystal Falls lives up to the name.

OPPOSITE: Camp out under starry skies on the Jatbula Trail.

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NORTHERN TERRITORY

OUTBACK ROAMING Find spiritual affinity with a timeless land on a journey through Nitmiluk National Park

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PHOTOGRAPHY PETER EVE

WORDS LAURA WATERS

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Rushing waters over Biddlecombe Cascades. BELOW: Exploring 'stone country' in Nitmiluk National Park.

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he setting sun casts beams of orange light between our tents and illuminates the water from nearby Biddlecombe Cascades as it carves through the flat savannah to flow over rocky falls.

“What time do we get up tomorrow Mick?”

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someone asks our guide.

“You’ll know it’s time when you hear the brown honeyeater start up,” he says.

It’s a moment that encapsulates the essence of our journey – a hike along the 61km Jatbula Trail in Nitmiluk National Park, 320km southeast of Darwin.

you never really experience something until you walk it The trail was named after Peter Jatbula, a Jawoyn traditional owner who played a key role in securing land rights for his people in 1989. He also had a dream to share his land and culture with others. “For people to get feet on the ground and feel country was what Peter wanted,” Mick says.

Most visitors here do a half-day cruise through Nitmiluk Gorge (formerly Katherine Gorge) or a few short ambles nearby – both of which will definitely impress. But Mick Jerram, owner of Gecko Canoeing and Trekking, believes you never really experience

something until you walk it. Over five days we’ll travel a route that has been used by the Jawoyn for thousands of years; traditional songlines guiding them as they roamed with the seasons.

Evidence of their presence remains, and on our second morning, a tall, rocky outcrop shrouded by fan palms hides rock art between its orange boulders. Mick leads us to an expansive view of Seventeen Mile Valley from the edge of the Arnhem Land Escarpment. This is “stone country”, Precambrian sandstone laid between 1.6 and 1.8

PHOTOGRAPHY PETER EVE

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CLOCKWISE: Follow the leader on the Jatbula Trail, Seventeen Mile Falls, loll about in ink-dark pools.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY, TOURISM NT

125 billion years ago. It’s hard terrain underfoot and the surrounding savannah woodland, scattered with termite mounds, provides little shelter from the beating sun. By lunchtime, we’re gathered like parrots on the shores of Crystal Cascades to drink and swim.

Jaw-dropping water features define Jatbula.

Walking begins at dawn, leaving us to spend the afternoon lolling about in ink-dark lagoons fringed by palms and mauve water lilies or exploring rivers, swimming and scrambling over beds of rock that drop away to end in pounding waterfalls. It’s a tempting playground but Mick offers a gentle warning: “We have a saying around

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Walking begins at dawn, leaving us to spend the afternoon lolling about here: rocks kill more than crocs.” Crocodiles do inhabit these parts, albeit the friendlier freshwater variety, and though Mick assures me they will steer clear of us, I still let out a nervous squeak when the trailing roots of a water lily brush my ankle.

Our third day leads us over undulating rocks and grassy woodland until suddenly the parched land drops away as though sliced by a giant cookie cutter. Descending

into the amphitheatre, we are immersed in a fernfilled rainforest strewn with vines and bobbing butterflies. Mick leads us to its inner walls to show us the longest gallery of Indigenous rock art I’ve ever seen — stretching for around 20 metres, it features images of crocodiles, turtles, catfish, emus and kangaroos.

With no access apart from on foot, the discovery of these paintings, around 2000 years old, feels even more special.

At Seventeen Mile Falls, our home for the night, water languishes in rock pools before gushing over a 30-metre drop between mighty rust-coloured walls. Around 250,000 people visit Nitmiluk

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National Park each year, yet only 15 walkers are allowed on the trail daily and our Eden is shared with just a handful of new friends.

On the trail the next morning Mick asks: “So can you imagine the Jawoyn walking through here over the years?” He suggests I walk alone for a bit and, without distraction, I start to tune in to my surroundings – the call of birds, the gentle rush of a breeze and the stark silence beyond. For a moment I forget what year it is, what era, and it’s then that I truly receive a sense of the Jawoyn connection to country.

Since the land was officially handed back to the Jawoyn, they have taken ownership of 100 per cent of the park and its associated hotel and tours. The Jawoyn Association aims to provide training, employment and commercial opportunities for their people, while still caring for country.

The more I walk, the more I too feel bonded with the land. Each afternoon I go exploring clad in a swimsuit, clambering barefoot over hot rocks, sitting in natural spas and drinking water straight from the river. I float on my back past sunbathing water monitors while cockatoos

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screech overhead and, at night, the howl of dingoes drifts on the still air under a sweep of sparkling stars. The final mornings are spent in more lush surrounds as the trail crosses grassy plains and bogs, weaving through pandanus palms and along the Edith River to veer west towards our finish.

Nothing in my modern life compares and, as I walk the remaining kilometres towards the crowded car park at Edith Falls, I wish I could stay connected to country.

Laura Waters travelled as a guest of Tourism NT.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Darwin from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

NITMILUK DESTINATION GUIDE If you can handle carrying a 13-kilogram pack, hiking provides the most secluded and immersive experience.

Gecko Canoeing and Trekking (geckocanoeing.com.au) operates guided tours that include equipment and food.

Nitmiluk Tours (nitmiluktours.com.au) offers: CRUISE Explore Nitmiluk Gorge by boat, combining towering red cliffs, crocodile spotting and Indigenous rock art.

PADDLE Take a self-guided canoe journey through the gorge.

Trips last from four hours to two days.

FLY Helicopter flights offer spectacular aerial views of the gorge system and the Arnhem Land Escarpment.

GETTING THERE Gecko provides transfers ex Darwin or Katherine to and from the trailhead.

Cruise/paddle/fly options depart from Nitmiluk Centre, 30km from Katherine.

BIRD IS THE WORD Around 240 species of birds can be found in the region, including kingfishers, parrots and the threatened Gouldian Finch. Keep an eye out around waterholes and rivers, and don’t forget to scan the treetops where flowering plants attract nectar and seed eaters. The first few hours after dawn are the best time for sightings.

PHOTOGRAPHY LAURA WATERS

Mick Jerram of Gecko Canoeing and Trekking helps walkers navigate the rocky terrain.

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MY DAILY GREEN

SUPERFOODS COMBO Lucinda Dennis, age 29 Founder of Snowluxe.com @Lucindadennis @snowluxeofficial

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That’s why a nutrient rich wholefood diet is essential for a healthy immune system.

Super Greens is a combo of four of nature’s most nutrient rich wholefoods - Spirulina, Chlorella, Barley Grass and Wheat Grass which contain a vast array of natural vitamins and minerals and are high in anti-oxidants to assist in the removal of free radicals.

To optimise your daily nutritional intake, simply blend Synergy Natural Super Greens powder with juice, seasonal fruits or your choice of liquid base for a delicious smoothie. Or take as tablets if preferred.

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AVAILABLE in the vitamin section of most Coles, Woolwor ths and Safeway supermarkets, selected Health Food Stores and Pharmacies. Our full range of pack sizes and products can be purchased from our website.

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PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, GUY JUDE, COCA CHU, MATTHEW CRAWFORD, MUDBRICK

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PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, GUY JUDE, COCA CHU, MATTHEW CRAWFORD, MUDBRICK

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DESTINATION DINING

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THESE REGIONAL RESTAURANTS ARE WELL WORTH THE DETOUR WORDS CHLOE CANN

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rom rustic, rural eateries proffering just one dish, to farmhouse lunches designed to be lingered over, Australia and New Zealand’s best cafés and restaurants aren’t confined to the city limits. Here are 18 regional restaurants worth the detour.

THE ARGYLE INN, TARALGA, NSW

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A country pub nestled deep in the Southern Tablelands, The Argyle Inn’s foundations stretch back to 1875. The inn’s interior has undergone significant changes following renovations made by its new farmer and architect owners late last year. But the restaurant at this Victorian-era heritage property still offers good, honest food at very reasonable prices – the three-course ‘house meal’ rolls in at $45, while a five-course Saturday night set menu is $65.

Local olives, hand-cut pasta, hearty pies and spatchcock Holmbrae chicken (reared at the hands of owner Hugh Wennerbom himself) are just some of the staples that can be enjoyed in The Argyle’s bistro, bar or kitchen garden courtyard. theargyleinn.com.au Still hungry? Insta-approved Paper Daisy at Cabarita Beach, housed within retrochic hotel Halcyon House.

Plump for the signature paperbark-grilled fish. halcyonhouse.com.au

MILLBROOK WINERY, JARRAHDALE, WA

Those tired of decoding pretentious menus will feel at home in Millbrook’s restaurant, where seasonal items are spelled out in simple form, from ‘this morning’s gathering of vegetables, market fish’ to

‘turnips & their tops, today’s cut of pork’. The eatery proudly states that it doesn’t buy fruit and vegetables, sourcing its produce entirely from the estate’s 90-year-old orchard and heirloom vegetable garden.

A quaint, historic town 45km south-east of Perth, Jarrahdale is an otherwise unremarkable spot. But this 150-year-old restaurant/winery has attracted numerous accolades – for everything from its head chef to its sauvignon blanc – making it a worthy short detour from WA’s South Western Highway. From Thursday to Sunday a threecourse meal will set you back $75, but turn up on ‘No Waste Monday’, when fresh produce left over from the weekend service is utilised, and you can enjoy a set menu for only $50, and walk away knowing you’ve helped in the war on waste. millbrook.wine Still hungry? Open since February, Yarri is from an old-hand who has already captivated many a food critic.

Yarri spruiks local, sustainably sourced produce and reflects the six seasons of WA’s Nyungar people and country. yarri.com.au

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Yarri ... reflects the six seasons of WA’s Nyungar people and country

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY, DESTINATION NSW, GRANT HARVEY, MUDBRICK, THE ARGYLE, SALOPIAN INN

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A delicate dish

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the trend with authentic, award-winning, modern South East Asian cuisine.

Sample fresh betel leaves and sticky, caramelised Barossa Hampshire pork with a drop from the 1000-strong wine list in the belly of the Barossa. fermentasian.com.au

MUDBRICK, WAIHEKE ISLAND, NORTH ISLAND, NZ CLOCKWISE FROM CENTRE: Getting Provençal at Mudbrick, instaapproved fare at Paper Daisy, The Argyle’s country style, Salopian Inn is a breath of fresh air for rural SA, detour to WA’s Millbrook Winery.

SALOPIAN INN, MCLAREN VALE, SA

Dishing up eclectic food that draws on the Mediterranean as well as Asia, the Salopian Inn is a breath of fresh air in South Australian wine country.

The menu reads like an ode to the local bounty of seasonal produce, while the bar has been stocked with a carefully curated collection of gins (a mere 230 different types from around the globe). A historic cellar is also open for punters to peruse and select a bottle from the racks with their own hands. Settle in for a lazy lunch (think soy-braised kangaroo tail with chilli caramel and Sichuan salt, $20, followed by fennel seed and honey panna cotta with candied orange, $16), or drop by for a pitstop snack on chef/owner Karena Armstrong’s famous buns (two steamed Boston Bay Berkshire pork buns with homestyle chilli sauce ring in for $12). salopian.com.au Still hungry? Mod Oz might be the flavour of the day in wine regions Down Under, but fermentAsian is bucking

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Home to some of New Zealand’s most prized real estate, Waiheke Island is an idyllic melange of vineyards, olive groves, forest and white-sand beaches, only a 35-minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland. It’s also host to some of New Zealand’s most scenic fine dining spots.

With its vast swathes of lavender, farmhouse-style stone buildings draped in ivy and French doors leading out to sprawling gardens, there’s a decidedly Provençal air at Mudbrick. But aside from the beautiful grounds, and uninterrupted views over the Huraki Gulf back to Auckland’s distant cityscape, it’s this winery’s all-day dining that draws daytrippers and locals alike. Diners can choose from the winery’s upscale eponymous restaurant, where à la carte, set menu and degustations are on offer, or the more reasonably priced Archive Bar & Bistro.

At the latter you can gorge on macadamia and coconut granola with buffalo yoghurt and poached stone fruit come breakfast, pan-fried arrow squid with red wine braised chorizo, hazelnuts and romesco come lunch, and saffron-infused martinis come aperitif hour. mudbrick.co.nz

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Still hungry? Napier restaurant Pacifica, which heroes seafood at its cerulean blue beach bungalow over a set, five-course degustation. pacificarestaurant.co.nz

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Garden on a plate

FAT PIG FARM, HUON VALLEY, TAS

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICE HANSEN

If lingering over long lunches is your thing, it doesn’t get better than Fat Pig Farm’s Friday Feasts. For one afternoon each week, former food critic and now SBS’ ‘Gourmet Farmer’ Matthew Evans opens the doors to his farmhouse kitchen for an authentic paddock-to-plate experience. A litany of dishes straight from the farm’s market garden, fields and heritage apple orchard – all seasonal, grown by hand and cooked in an open kitchen – arrive at the table, alongside matched beer, wine, cider and spirits from around the Apple Isle. In between courses, guests are taken on a guided farm tour, and those still hankering for more can book in for a cookery class. fatpig.farm

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Still hungry? Tiny country town Geeveston hides one of Australia’s best sushi restaurants: be prepared to queue, or book far ahead, for the wildly fresh salmon sashimi, tuna nigiri and more at Masaaki’s Sushi.

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COCA CHU, HAMILTON ISLAND, QLD

An island off Queensland’s coast might not seem an obvious outpost for mindblowing hawker-style South East Asian food. But this breezy, open-sided venue in the Whitsundays is a study in perfectly tempered hot, sweet, sour and salty flavours.

Adventurous eaters can devour dishes such as crispy pig’s ears with pickled chilli ginger, while those with more cautious tastebuds can gorge on a fragrant southern curry with Moreton Bay bugs or a Sichuan half duck with chilli, coriander and ginger. hamiltonisland.com.au/ restaurants/coca-chu

BANK STREET WOOD FIRED PIZZA & GARDENS, AVENEL, VIC

A folksy treasure hidden in a one-horse town, Bank Street Pizza does one thing, and one thing well: woodfired pizza.

Housed in the remnants of a 19th-century bank in the heart of Ned Kelly Country, this quaint eatery’s sprawling gardens are arguably its most charming asset come spring and summer. Sit on a wooden picnic bench under fairy lights

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Coca Chu’s South East Asian fare; short rib, rock samphire and Otway shiitake at Brae; embrace a long lunch at Fat Pig Farm.

strung through trees and order a Scotty, draped with smoked scamorza cheese, fresh chilli and scattered with caramelised onion and earthy morsels of pork and fennel sausage from the butcher’s directly across the road. Wash it all down with a Positano – lemon sorbet topped up with prosecco and garnished with lemon zest.

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Still hungry? Book in advance to secure a seat at Brae, the organic-leaning, awardwinning eatery credited with helping kickstart Australia’s regional dining movement. braerestaurant.com

Still hungry? Head to the hinterland for something special – Spirit House will transport you from the Sunshine Coast’s Yandina to the rainforests of South East Asia in minutes. Dine on top-notch Thai in one of the pavilions dotted around the lake and soak up the scenery. spirithouse.com.au

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Quite the catch

A cosy patchwork shack of timber beams and corrugated iron on the road to nowhere, Fleurs Place is an unlikely spot for gourmet eats.

Perched on the old jetty of fishing village Moeraki (pop. 60), whispers of the restaurant’s rustic brilliance have long circulated in foodie circles. But slowly the address has become more familiar, thrust into the spotlight thanks to acclaim from none other than seafood king Rick Stein. A chalkboard menu highlights the catch of the day, delivered straight from a small boat ramp that docks directly at Fleur’s door.

Local staples include dory, sole, crayfish and more, any of which can be battered, steamed or flour-dusted and fried to your liking. fleursplace.com Still hungry? Save up your cents and go haute at Canterbury’s family-owned Pegasus Bay. The menu was designed around the estate’s wines and pays homage to the bounty of the local land. pegasusbay.com

PICTURED AND ABOVE: Foodies in the know hot-foot it to Fleurs Place.

BELOW: Sunsets over Crab Claw.

CRAB CLAW ISLAND RESORT, COX PENINSULA, NT

Fishos will go loco for this coastal enclave, situated less than two hour’s drive southwest of Darwin. Surrounded by water on three sides, not to mention the saltwater estuaries and freshwater creeks within easy reach, Crab Claw Island Resort is planted within some of the NT’s best fishing grounds.

Understandably, fishing and mud crabbing are two of the resort’s major draws. In-house chefs will cook your fresh catch – threadfin and barra can be caught straight off the beach in front of the resort – or there are barbecues to fire up for

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Fleurs Place is an unlikely spot for gourmet eats

those so inclined. Settle into the open-air restaurant with a glass of something cold and marvel at life’s simple pleasures. crabclawisland.com.au Still hungry? At outback institution Sandpalms Roadhouse, mudcrabs are cooked to a secret recipe and a modified four-stroke motor is used to blend daiquiris.

Travel Info Jetstar offers great prices on flights and car-hire packages.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, CRAB CLAW ISLAND RESORT

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FLEURS PLACE, MOERAKI, OTAGO COAST, SOUTH ISLAND, NZ

9/8/18 1:02 pm

w

EXPER

There is nowhere in the world where you can experience so much, so close and so easily.

Your South Island experience begins with just an hours drive from Christchurch New Zealand, whether you’re driving North, South, East or West, Mid Canterbury is the prefect stop.

Stay as long as you can to explore Mid Canterbury to the fullest.

With stunning snow capped mountains as its backdrop and surrounded by impressive braided rivers and crystal clear lakes, the scenery is so magnificent it will take your breath away.

Mid Canterbury is one of the great secrets of New Zealand, with an inspiring range of both energetic and relaxing activities.

Join us for a journey of exploration and exhilaration.

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9/8/18 1:02 9:35 pm am

Every dish has a story to tell.

The anticipated book from the acclaimed TV series.

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8/8/18 10:57 am 9/8/18 1:03 pm

10:57 am

Promotion

This month

GREAT THINGS TO DO, BUY AND EXPERIENCE

At Hog’s Australia’s Steakhouse we do great steaks.

Try our new 400gm bone-in rib eye.

This succulent Grasslands Beef steak is free-range, aged for 100 days and raised on natural pastures. It’s wellmarbled and tender, has a great texture and an amazing flavour profile that you are sure to enjoy. hogsbreath.com.au

Case on point Curio by American Tourister features an award-winning design, expandable sides, dual spinner wheels and a secure TSA lock. Cristiano Ronaldo is on board as American Tourister’s global ambassador and has been pictured sporting the stylish case in black.

From $239; americantourister.com.au

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Salute summer

Get ready to party! The Gold Coast’s Pacific Fair Summer Party returns this September (8-9) to launch the spring/ summer 2018 season with fashion, food, giveaways, prizes and more than 100 exclusive offers. pacificfair.com.au

Moving memoir

Don’t miss Heart Berries, a powerful coming-of-age story and the book everyone is talking about. The memoir was also chosen by Emma Watson as her latest bookclub read.

RRP: $27.99; bloomsbury.com/au

TAKING FLIGHT

Explore a bushland haven for native wildlife at Healesville Sanctuary. Be sure to catch Spirits of the Sky, where you can discover Australia’s majestic birds of prey and brilliant parrots as they take flight in this spectacular daily show. Kids under 16 visit free on weekends and public holidays! zoo.org.au/healesville

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Swoop and sail

Experience Tasmania’s best outdoor adventure. Hollybank Wilderness Adventures is the home of Australia’s first zipline tour, taking visitors up to 50m.

The site also features Segway tours, a ropes course and mountain bike hire. treetopsadventure.com.au

Hot property

Keep your favourite beverages hot for 20 hours or cold for 50 with a Klean Kanteen 20oz (592ml) Insulated Classic bottle. Now with Klean Coat™ technology, the bottle’s powder coat finish is four times more durable, chip-resistant and safe for people and the planet. RRP: $48.95; kleankanteen.com.au

9/8/18 1:03 pm

Directory I AUSTRALIA

Whitsunday holiday paradise!

Self-contained Accommodation - Over 15 Onsite Activities - Multi Award Winning Airlie Beach, Whitsundays, Queensland • Ph: 1300 640 587 Email: reservations@adventurewhitsunday.com.au

adventurewhitsunday.com.au #adventurewhitsunday

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10/8/18 11:42 am

Directory I AUSTRALIA

Living Like The Rich & Famous While watching a TV show about movie stars’ homes my husband and I saw a Bidet Toilet Seat and ever since then we’ve always wanted to get one of these amazing Bidets in our own bathroom.

We went into The BIDET SHOP® and saw a sign that read, “This bidet seat simply replaces your existing toilet seat and will automatically clean and dry you.”

They told us that The BIDET SHOP® had been supplying electric Bidet seats for over 10 years; had an excellent after sales service with a 7 day help line, and all of their products were quick to install.

We bought one on the spot and it was up and running the next day. Give it a go... because we couldn’t be happier living like the rich and famous!

ELS M O DO M FR

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AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials.

The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

Address: Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne Tel: +61 (03) 9654 8933 Web: kenzan.com.au

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0

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Warm Water Wash Warm Air Dry Heated Seat Soft Close Lid Remote Control Filtered Water Voted Best Bidet in the world 2 years in a row

Code for Discount

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FF $20 O 809J

AU 1300 139 822 NZ 0800 450 837 www.thebidetshop.com.au www.thebidetshop.co.nz

7/12/2017 3:25 PM 9/8/18 1:03 pm

Directory I AUSTRALIA / NEW ZEALAND

a World of

Wonder Awaits Use Promo Code:

GLOW For 10% discount

BOOK NOW www.waitomo.com

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9/8/18 2:53 pm

Explore I INTERVIEW

141

Viva Brisvegas

The Queensland capital puts its best foot forward for the Brisbane Festival (8-29 September) with a city-wide program of arts and events.

NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

PHOTO TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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9/8/18 1:04 pm

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

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A SUPER SURPRISE FOR A SUPER KID The first Jetstar Flying Start grant of 2018 has gone to the inspiring Super Max & Bryce.

Super Max & Bryce was founded in 2016 by then nine-year-old Bryce U’Ren, after he watched his mum Amy undergo cancer treatment.

“After seeing my mum sick with cancer I thought about how scary it would be to be a child going through the same thing. I decided I wanted to take action and do something to help,” Bryce says.

“I’m scared of the

dark so I started raising money to give SuperMax the Turtle night lights to kids being treated for cancer on the Gold Coast, and then I knew I had to do that for all of the kids across Australia because I didn’t want anyone to be left out.”

Through his persistence and the support from his community, Bryce has travelled across Australia to all eight of the children’s oncology treatment centres to hand out the SuperMax the Turtle night lights.

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Are you eligible?

Jetstar’s Flying Start Program invites community groups across Australia and New Zealand to apply for a $30,000 grant to fund a project that will enrich the lives of people in their local community.

Applications are now open, visit jetstar.com to enter.

Last year, Bryce raised enough money to purchase 804 SuperMax the Turtle night lights, one for every single child who was diagnosed with cancer in Australia.

“New Zealand is next!” he says, a goal he is pursuing with the support of partners at the Australian and New Zealand Children’s Haematology and Oncology Group (ANZHOG).

The Jetstar Flying Start grant, which comprises $15,000 cash and $15,000 in Jetstar flights, will assist in covering the travel costs associated with yearly visits to children’s oncology hospitals.

Bryce’s mother Amy Kenworthy says the Jetstar Flying Start grant will allow Super Max & Bryce to grow.

“The Jetstar Flying Start Program grant will give us the opportunity to fly from our home on the Gold Coast to children’s hospitals around Australia and New Zealand, to handdeliver these very special night lights and give love, hope, happiness and comfort to the brave little superheroes in treatment and their families,” Amy says.

9/8/18 4:55 pm

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Adventure aplenty in the NT Travel writer Robin Esrock is taking his family across Australia in search of unique experiences.

This month he visits the Northern Territory.

Two iconic national parks dominate most itineraries to the Top End. Kakadu has high concentrations of Indigenous rock art, pristine bushwalking, stunning waterfalls and rugged cliffs. Based in Darwin and with my young kids in tow, we decided an overnight visit to Litchfield National Park was far more accessible.

Less than a two-hour drive on the 130km/h Stuart Highway, the natural wonders of Litchfield are something to behold. Also to behold: my two year-old Galileo, wearing his bright green floaties as we swim beneath a series of pristine cascades.

Having explored the nearby Wangi and Florence Falls, our adventure to the Buley Rockpools proved nature always builds the best water parks. Suitably refreshed, we ticked off the towering orange cathedral termite mounds and tombstone-like magnetic termite mounds. Both encompass some of the tallest non-human built structures in the world.

Spending the night outside the park in the familyfriendly Batchelor Butterfly Farm – the couple that owns this eccentric homestay and restaurant surround themselves with bunnies, butterflies and babies – Litchfield topped our list of Top End highlights.

Robin Esrock’s next book, The Great Australian Bucket List, will be published in October. Follow his journey on Instagram at @robinesrock or esrockingkids.com

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Amy Broadfoot (INSET) is a conversation starter.

Up for a

good ‘Convo?

WHEN WAS the last time you had a good conversation?

Melbourne local Amy Broadfoot wants you to do just that. A marketing consultant, Amy felt that her generation is living life via a screen.

As a result, she created Convo in an effort to reconnect communities and allow individuals to think more deeply about topics that aren’t regularly explored in our daily lives.

Convo is a series of dinner events that invites strangers to dine in warehouses across Melbourne and discuss six thoughtful questions with their new dining companions over a three-course meal.

The result? New-found friends, stomachs satiated and minds delightfully refreshed

– all while supporting good causes.

Where possible, Convo selects social enterprises to supply the events including a catering partnership with native Australian cuisine pioneers, Charcoal Lane, and social wine connoisseurs Kooks.

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Kooks is proud to raise a glass to Amy and having a good ‘convo’ over a glass of wine. Take a seat at the organisation’s next event on Saturday 8 December, or peruse what’s on the menu at convodinners.com Support this and other great causes by purchasing Kooks wine on board your flight. kooks.com.au

13/8/18 11:05 am

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

JETSTAR’S JUNIOERR TRAVEL BLOGG to Sydney with Jetstar and Abby flew from Brisbane enture in the city! adv c epi had an

See the sights in Sydney We got to Sydney at 11am and went on an hour-long walk around Circular Quay. We saw the Opera House and caught a ferry to Luna Park.

Luna Park was amazing. My top three rides were the Wild Mouse, the Hair Raiser and the Moon Ranger. I also loved the Mystery Manor.

The next day, we woke up to an amazing view of Sydney and the Harbour Bridge from our hotel. We headed to our buffet breakfast and then straight on to the Australian Museum, which I was bursting to see! The museum was very fun and interesting. We took pictures with the woolly mammoth – part of the Giants of the Ice Age exhibition – and went on a dinosaur hunt. It was an amazing trip and I was so excited to go back to school and tell my friends.

Winner!

K-Zone and Total recently called ou Girl kids of Australia to t to the had the makings see who of a Junior Blogger. Six Jetstar writers won a fligh clever t Australian destina to the tion of their choosing.

144 144

Life at Jetstar Working at Jetstar is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about.

The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career. But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read Silvia’s story (right), or visit Life at Jetstar: jetstar.com/ au/en/careers/life-at-jetstar

SILVIA CAIMOTTO Job title: Marketing Projects Advisor | No. of years at Jetstar: Six | Location: Melbourne Head Office

How did you end up at Jetstar?

I started with Jetstar as a customer service officer at Cairns Airport.

I moved from Cairns to Melbourne five years ago, with my sights set on Jetstar’s head office (and a very warm jacket). I was lucky enough to be offered a project role in Jetstar’s ground operations team and have recently moved into the marketing team.

Describe a typical day Depending on the project I’m working on, a typical day for me involves project meetings with stakeholders across the Jetstar network and conducting research on new and existing products. The best part of my role is hearing feedback from our customers and team members on the projects I work on.

What’s challenging about your role?

Coordinating media events at our airports takes a huge amount of planning, but it’s

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always so rewarding to see it all come together on the day.

And the career highlight?

There’s so many it’s hard to pick just one, but a memorable day for me would be the launch of our very first Boeing 787 flight from Melbourne.

What do you like most about working for Jetstar?

The best thing about working for Jetstar is the opportunities to grow and learn. My career so far has taken me from operations to marketing and I’ve had so many great mentors along the way. At Jetstar everyone’s input is valued, and you are encouraged to think big.

What would surprise people about your job?

How many different career pathways you can take in aviation. Working collaboratively with so many different teams means you are always learning something new.

13/8/18 12:39 pm

the bed base You don’t hang a Picasso in the basement.

So you don’t put a Koala mattress on any old bed base.

We designed ours from the ground up.

An Australian design that’s rock solid, looks great.

Delivered in 4 hours, assembled in 4 minutes.

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9/8/18 1:05 pm

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9/8/18 1:06 pm

Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

VIETNAM I STARKIDS

Hope after hardship StarKids donations helped this young family in Vietnam overcome adversity WORDS JENNA RATHBONE

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY Hitting the books This year*

$1,139,895 Thao Van (left) guides her younger sister Quynh Nhu (right) while studying.

PHOTO PHAM THU TRANG/WORLD VISION

A

fter years of suffering from diabetes, Cai’s husband passed away in 2015, leaving her to raise two daughters.

Even before this tragedy, the family struggled to grow enough rice on their small farm to last year-round. And, after losing the household’s main breadwinner, their life was filled with even more hardship.

That was until Cai enrolled in a farming-skills training course as part of a StarKids-supported agriculture project. She learned how to increase her rice yield while reducing production costs

and can now harvest 20 sacks of rice each year.

In addition, Cai learned how to lead a child nutrition club for mothers in her village and is now running meetings and developing monthly plans for the club. Driven by a desire to improve children’s health, Cai also joined the staff at her local health centre and was recently recruited to work as a cook in a primary school near her home.

Meanwhile, her daughters Thao Van and Quynh Nhu also received support to remain in school while their family was struggling.

The sisters say the care they received from their

Total

$10,302,843 teachers, friends and World Vision staff encouraged them to overcome their saddest time.

They are coming to terms with the loss of their father and performing well at school, with Thao Van now enrolled in a school for outstanding students.

“I no longer want to quit school to stay home helping my mum,” she says. “I have to study hard to be able to help my family escape poverty.”

You can help!

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need.

Your donations to StarKids help support community-based development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand. These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia.

By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future.

A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia.

Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information.

Your small change today could change a life tomorrow!

JETSTAR.COM

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*Funds raised in 2018 financial year as of July 2018. Total raised since 2007.

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9/8/18 1:06 pm

P

Explore Essentials I INTERVIEW I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

BEAUTY ON THE FLY

Hacks to help you look and feel your freshest on landing

Beauty’s on the inside It’s no secret that what you eat and drink can affect your skin, but that’s even truer when you’re in the air. Typically, skin is happiest when the humidity is between 40 and 70 per cent, but cabin air can be as low as 10 per cent – that’s drier than the Sahara desert! On an average 10-hour flight, passengers can lose some two litres of water. To help compensate for the dry environment, it’s important to hydrate. The US Aerospace Medical Association suggests about eight ounces (250ml) of water for every hour you’re in the air. Avoiding alcohol and caffeine, as well as sodium-heavy foods, will help too.

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Miniature marvels

If you’re flying internationally don’t forget to pack compact skincare saviours into your cabin baggage, where you can easily reach them*. It’s best to take off any make-up pre-flight or as soon as you board. Then reach for a serum (which is good at penetrating the skin and locks in moisture) followed by facial oil or thick moisturiser, and top up every few hours. Beauty experts also suggest applying a hydrating mask mid-flight. If you’re not brave enough to sport a sheet mask on a packed plane then opt for a gel-based sachet instead.

chill

KEEP IT

If you plan to head out and explore once you land, there are some quick hacks to help you look your best. The skin around your eyes is incredibly delicate and quick to show signs of fatigue. To rid yourself of tired, dry eyes there are two main options. The more professional solution is to use eye drops and apply under-eye patches. The DIY solution is to simply plunge your face into a sink of full of ice-cold water several times – this helps to stimulate lymphatic circulation and blood flow, as well as constricting capillaries and tightening pores.

Another shortcut to sparkling eyes is the humble metal spoon – chill two in your minbar fridge or freezer and place the backs of the cold spoons directly on your closed lids.

Did you know?

You might have packed sunscreen in your checked baggage, but it’s wise to slop it on ahead of flying too. While UVB rays are blocked by the plane’s windows, UVA rays are not. And because aircraft soar so high, passengers are much closer to the ozone layer where the sun’s rays are more harmful.

To prevent damage to your skin, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least 30SPF and reapply every two hours, especially if you have a window seat and leave the shades up.

* When flying internationally, liquids, aerosols and gels must be in containers of 100 millilitres (volume), or 100 grams (weight) or less and fit into a transparent, resealable plastic bag with all sides adding up to no more than 80cm, with a maximun of one bag allowed per passenger.

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9/8/18 1:06 pm

Picture your perfect stay...

Airlie Beach, Whitsundays

¡ Direct flights from Sydney, Melbourne & Brisbane

¡ Amazing activity & team building opportunities

¡ Award winning dining

¡ Full & half day delegate packages

¡ Air-conditioned conference facilities

¡ Range of accommodation styles

¡ Stunning social venues with picture perfect views Reservations phone number: Free call 1800 075 061 | Events phone number: 07 4964 1340 Email reservations: stay@coralsearesort.com | Email events: events@coralsearesort.com Website: www.coralsearesort.com | Address: 25 Ocean View Avenue, Airlie Beach Queensland 4802

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9/8/18 1:06 pm

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou

Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou Hanoi Dong Hoi

Chiang Mai

Shantou

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Yangon

150

Okinawa Taipei Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

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9/8/18 1:07 pm

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi

Sapporo

Hai Phong Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kumamoto Kagoshima Miyazaki

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Phu Quoc

Nha Trang Da Lat

Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 6 September (TokyoNagasaki) and 27 October (Osaka-Kumamoto), subject to regulatory approval

Ho Chi Minh City Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

151

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon)

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Operated by Jetstar Airways

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Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

9/8/18 1:07 pm

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9/8/18 1:08 pm

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town

Hello from Hamilton Island

153

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour.

Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12.

Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre.

Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

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TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20.

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle.

Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $65 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $55 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor for fare voucher.

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential).

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle.

Adult $21, child $13; return:

9/8/18 1:08 pm

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

adult $41, child $21.

Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 154

15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25.

TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon) TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: adult $32, child $26, return: $64.

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins

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Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers.

TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Newcastle 27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk.

Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred).

From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles.

Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect.

Tickets $15; return: $30.

Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers.

Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32.

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80.

TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22.

TransLink Bus 622.

Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle.

Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins.

Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit.

Adult $18, child $13.

Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18.

Bookings not required.

9/8/18 1:08 pm

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Kids puzzles

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

157

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9/8/18 1:08 pm

Redefiningyour expectations

With its warm smiles and welcoming vibe, you’ll rediscover the joy of travel at Holiday Inn Melbourne on Flinders.

It’s the perfect Melbourne location - on the corner of Flinders Lane and Spencer Street, close to shops, restaurants, Southbank and in the free tram zone.

The hotel rooms and suites have recently been renovated – featuring comfortable pillowtop beds, big smart TVs, free WiFi and marvelous showers. If you book the Spencer Suite, expect stunning panoramic Melbourne street views and a spacious lounge to watch the world go by.

Book with us and join IHG® Rewards Club.

Visit us at holidayinnmelbourne.com.au or call us on (03) 9629 4111.

156-161_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd jetstar-2018-advertisement.indd 1 158

9/08/2018 9/8/18 2:49:25 4:05 PMpm

Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1_What harbour-side Sydney suburb is home to Finger Wharf? (13) 7_What is a colloquial word for a gossip? (6-7) 8_What is the Australian slang term for car registration? (4) 9_The leaf from what type of lime tree is used in tropical Asian cooking? (6) 13_Whose award-winning stand-up show, Nanette, is the first Australian Netflix live comedy special? (6,6) 15_A famous board game based on crossword puzzles. (8) 16_A Japanese fermented soybean paste that’s often used in soup. (4) 17_The acronym for the National Museum of Australia. (3) 18_In cricket, what is the period a batter is at the crease until they are out, or the match declared? (7) 19_The largest glacier in New Zealand, which rises on Mount Cook. (6,7)

1_A crunchy vegetable named after a nut, and used in Asian cooking. (5,8) 2_People between 80 and 90 years old. (13) 3_Jane Fonda and ‌ Tomlin star in the US comedy series Grace and Frankie (2015-). (4) 4_In the manga series Negima!

(2003-12) what is name of the fictional abandoned capital and popular sightseeing location? (5) 5_Which leader lost an arm at the Eureka Stockade before he entered parliament? (5) 6_In Rise of the Tomb Raider (2015) and in the city of Kitezh, what does Lara traverse while searching for The Divine Source? (6) 10_What are twins that develop from different eggs? (9) 11_Someone who has difficulty sleeping. (9) 12_What country is home to the Angkor Wat temple complex? (8) 14_What Australian slang word can mean a prude or killjoy. (6)

159

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

7

(

8

156-161_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 159

EASY

9/8/18 1:08 pm

Puzzles

QUICK QUIZ Test your knowledge of beautiful Bali with our quiz

160

9. If you were to order the famous Balinese dish babi guling, what would you get?

10. How many islands make up the Indonesian archipelago?

A) 8,304 B) 14,568 C) 17,508 11. What is the common Balinese term for a small family-run cafĂŠ or restaurant?

12. A favourite Ubud tourist attraction is a forest overrun with what creature?

13. Known as tri datu, which three colours combined carry special spiritual significance in Bali?

14. What is the main form of currency used in Bali?

15. The establishments Potato Head Beach Club, La Lucciola and Motel Mexicola are all found in which popular Balinese resort area?

1. Bali is also known as the Island of the ‘what’?

2. Julia Roberts undertook a spiritual pilgrimage to Bali in the film adaptation of which best-selling memoir?

3. According to tradition, what are Balinese babies not allowed to touch for their first 105 days?

A) Dogs B) The ground C) Sea water 4. The three Nusa islands are Nusa Ceningan, Nusa Penida and Nusa ‘what’?

5. Which Balinese town hosts annual festivals celebrating literature, food and spirituality?

6. What is Bali’s predominant religion?

7. Found in the busy Kuta neighbourhood is what popular water park?

8. On what national religious holiday does Bali observe a day of silence?

12

7

5

SOLUTIONS

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_Gods 2_Eat, Pray, Love 3_B) The ground 4_Lembongan 5_Ubud 6_Hinduism 7_Waterbom Bali 8_Nyepi 9_Suckling pig 10_C) 17,508 11_A warung 12_The Balinese long-tailed monkey 13_Red, white and black 14_Indonesian Rupiah 15_Seminyak 156-161_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 160

9/8/18 1:08 pm

Septem

Healthy. Happy. Hydrated.

Pick up a Klean Kanteen today and stay healthy and hydrated while you’re out enjoying life to the fullest. Our 18/8 food grade stainless steel bottles with the new and durable Klean Coat™ finish won’t retain flavours, keeping your drinks tasting pure and refreshing all day long. If you just want to chill out, our Insulated range can keep your favourite beverages icy cold for up to 100 hours.

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YOURS TO OWN IN SEPTEMBER

RELEASE DATES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

MOVIES | TV | MUSIC | COUNTRY | GAMES | MERCHANDISE | BOOKS

WWW.SANITY.COM.AU ONLINE ONLY

WITH OVER 140 STORES NATIONALLY, SANITY IS YOUR LEADING RETAILER OF MOVIES, TV SHOWS, BLU-RAY, GAMES, MUSIC, BOOKS, POP VINYL AND OFFICIAL MERCHANDISE

162-167_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT18.indd 162

IN-STORE & ONLINE

9/8/18 1:09 pm

Available on 787 seatback screens I SEPTEMBER 2018 I Entertainment

Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE!

© 2018 Universal City Studios Productions LLLP. All Rights Reserved.

©2018 Warner Bros. Ent. All rights reserved.

©2018 Home Box Office, Inc. All rights reserved.

$10

AUD Blockbuster movies TV comedy and drama Kids’ favourites Hit music Games

© 2018 Marvel

ONLY

© 2017 Studio 100 Media GmbH, Studio B Animation Pty Ltd and Create NSW

© 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available.

More than

40 movies and 400

TV episodes available

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PRE-PURCHASE AND SAVE Purchase inflight entertainment when you book your flight and save!

General

Parental guidance recommended

162-167_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT18.indd 163

Recommended for mature audiences

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

Restricted to 18 and over

9/8/18 1:10 pm

Going away without your fur baby?

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*You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn and redeem Qantas Points. Membership and Qantas Points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer program terms and conditions. 500 Qantas Points will be awarded to Qantas Frequent Flyer members who make their first Mad Paws booking on qantas.com/pets. Qantas Frequent Flyer members will earn 1 Qantas Point per A$1 value for Mad Paws services booked through qantas.com/pets. Qantas Points will not be earned on cancelled or refunded bookings. Qantas Points will be credited to your account at least six weeks after the service has been completed. To earn Qantas Points, quote your Qantas Frequent Flyer membership number when booking. Qantas Points may be earned by the member in whose name the booking is made.

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9/8/18 1:10 pm

Available on 787 seatback screens I MOVIES & TV I Entertainment

Movies

Television

NEW RELEASES

Risky Business

Comedy, Crime, Drama

COMEDY

The Cabin in the Woods Comedy, Fantasy, Horror

Mars Attacks! ©2018 Marvel.

Comedy, Sci-fi © 2018 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved.

Romancing the Stone

Avengers: Infinity War Tully

Action, Adventure, Comedy, Romance

Action Comedy, Drama

Rampage

Action

Maya the Bee: The Honey Games

Twilight

Drama, Fantasy, Romance

FOREIGN FILMS

Animation

I Kill Giants

Fantasy

Fahrenheit 451 (2018)

Sci-fi

Ready Player One

Sci-fi

The Bookshop

Period Drama

Gringo

Action, Comedy, Crime

Love, Simon

Comedy, Drama

Isle of Dogs

Action, Adventure, Comedy

Tomb Raider (2018)

Action, Adventure

Unsane

Thriller

Breath

Drama

Midnight Oil: 1984

Documentary

Blockers

Comedy

Friends

Season 10

Delve into the hearts and minds of six friends living in New York City.

Young Sheldon

Season 1

Will & Grace

Season 9

The Big Bang Theory

Season 11

Leonard and Sheldon are brilliant, socially awkward physicists.

The Thousand Faces of Dunjia Mandarin language

Action, Adventure

The Crimes That Bind Japanese language

Crime

FAMILY FAVOURITES

Modern Family

Seasons 5, 6 & 8

American Dad

Seasons 11 & 12

Bob’s Burgers

Season 7

An animated series that follows the daily life of a working class man, Bob.

Futurama

Season 7

DRAMA © Disney Enterprises, Inc.

The Lion King

Family, Animation

Toy Story

Family, Animation

© 2018 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved.

CLASSIC COLLECTION

© 2018 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved.

Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Black Lightning

Season 1

The Jungle Bunch

Animation

Chicken Run

Animation

Jefferson Pierce becomes the wanted vigilante and DC legend Black Lightning.

Flushed Away

Animation

Cold Case (Japan)

Puss in Boots

Animation

Animal Kingdom

Moana

Animation

The Leftovers

Japanese language Season 1

Season 1 Seasons 1, 2 & 3

Megamind

Animation

In a global event dubbed The Departure, 140 million people suddenly disappeared.

Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Monsters vs. Aliens

Animation

Westworld

Batman Begins

Action, Adventure

Shrek

Animation

iZombie

The Bodyguard

Drama

Madagascar

Animation

Kung Fu Panda

Animation

A bold, subversive take on the surreality of small-town life.

How To Train Your Dragon

Animation

DC’s Legends of Tomorrow Seasons 1, 2 & 3

Caddyshack

Comedy, Sport

Deadpool

162-167_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT18.indd 165

165

Action

Riverdale

Season 1 Seasons 1, 2 & 3 Seasons 1 & 2

9/8/18 1:10 pm

Club Jetstar

It’s not every day a low fare gets even lower.

Join Club Jetstar now • Exclusive member-only fares* • Early access to our biggest sales • 20% off bags and seat selection^ • Partner offers tailored just for members

Get on board at jetstar.com

*There is a Club Jetstar joining fee of AUD/NZD $49.00 and an annual membership of AUD/NZD $49.99, waived for the first year. *Member-only fares are not available on all flights or days. Limited availability over public holiday weekends and school holidays. ^Discounts on fares, bags and seat selection only available on new bookings made at Jetstar.com for flights departing Australian airports (Club Jetstar Australia members) or New Zealand airports (Club Jetstar New Zealand members). Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

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3/5/18 10:19 am 9/8/18 1:10 pm

10:19 am

Available on 787 seatback screens I TV & AUDIO I Entertainment

Television LIFESTYLE

KIDS

© & TM Lucasfilm Ltd.

© 2017 E! Entertainment LLC. All Rights Reserved.

© Disney

Keeping Up With The Kardashians Season 14

Star Wars Rebels

The Kardashians are determined to remember that family always comes first.

A few brave individuals band together in resistance to the Galactic Empire.

Magical teen princess Star Butterfly is sent to live with a family on Earth.

Robot Wars, Battle of The Stars

Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy Season 2

Big Ben: Saving the World’s Most Famous Clock

Wacky Races

Season 1

Scooby-Doo! & Batman The Brave and the Bold

Stuck in the Middle

Season 2

Trailblazers

Harley Diaz is from a family of nine, stuck in the middle of all the chaos!

Host Tania Bryer travels the world to meet global, iconic figures.

Season 4

Desert Vet

Season 3

Disney Tsum Tsum Peppa Pig Wabbit Unikitty

Harry Styles: Live in Manchester Who Do You Think You Are?

Star vs. the Forces of Evil

Season 13 Season 1

Dynamo: A-Z

Season 1

Join Unikitty, the beloved character from The LEGO® Movie, and all her friends!

© Disney

Audio

Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz

Season 1

The New Legends of Monkey

Season 1

167

Games

ALBUMS

MUSIC VIDEOS

Tetris Chess Bejeweled 2 Blackjack

PNAU

The Preatures

Girlhood

Chart toppers from the likes of Shawn Mendes, PNAU, Ariana Grande and more.

This album gives fans a fresh blast of ear candy from one of the most beloved bands to emerge on the Australian scene in recent years.

Post Malone

10th Birthday Party

Alison Wonderland King Princess

Awake Make My Bed EP

Holy Holy

Paint

Winterbourne Foreigner

‘00s + ‘10s

Beerbongs & Bentleys

Lah Lah

Pendulum Foreigner With The 21st Century Symphony Orchestra & Chorus

162-167_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT18.indd 167

New Hits

From Lady Gaga’s Poker Face to Amy Winehouse’s career-defining hit Back to Black, watch all your favourite music videos from the noughties to now.

Disney’s Classic Games Golf Open

Podcasts & radio The Bump

Lady Startup

The Hits

No Filter

Pure Gold

Ask Me Anything

ChillZone

Sting, Weezer and The Cardigans all feature on this ‘90s music video compilation.

Ready Jet Go

2DayFM Breakfast with Em, Grant & Ed

Settle Petal

Fifi, Fev & Byron

‘80s

Sleepy Soundtrack Jase & PJ

‘90s

Throwback to the ‘80s with classics, such as All Night Long (All Night) from Lionel Richie and Abba’s Super Trouper.

PLUS MANY MORE AVAILABLE ONBOARD

9/8/18 1:10 pm

Backpage I TRAVEL TALES

The waiting game Why the countdown is sometimes what really counts WORDS AMELIA BALL

168_BACKPAGE_TRAVEL TALES.indd 168

for being so frivolous.

These days, I can’t imagine affording lastminute international fares in December, let alone booking a flight for two days later. As soon as you multiply flight prices by two or three or more, as I do now, spontaneity slips away. Sadly, so do those magical upgrades.

That’s why the buildup to a holiday means so

so much of the holiday joy lies in the anticipation much more to me these days. Trips may now be less frequent and more sensible, but I get to enjoy all those indulgent daydreams before the real thing. It helps get the most mileage out of the experience, which I know will be over too soon.

Before long, that enticing promise of a trip will be gone and those post-holiday blues will kick in. They say the best cure for that is to plan another holiday as soon as you get home.

Next time, I’ll book it a year out.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

168

I’VE BEEN COUNTING down the days to our approaching holiday for the past six months. Six. Long. Months. And now that our time in the Cook Islands is almost here, I’m feeling philosophical.

While this trip has at times felt excruciatingly out of reach, I’ve also realised so much of the holiday joy lies in the anticipation.

I operate better with an incentive on the horizon, and nothing beats the lure of the tropics – especially when challenges arise. When that work meeting runs overtime and people won’t stop talking? Ponder that first drink upon arrival.

When winter kicks in and you just can’t warm up? Cast your mind to that welcome poolside position. And when you need an excuse to ignore a deadline, browsing online for new summer gear works a treat.

I never used to do holidays this way. Back when I was travelling solo, I’d book trips on a whim just days out from departure. Like the time I decided at the 11th hour to join a friend in Hong Kong for Christmas. I even got upgraded on the way there, as if the travel gods were high-fiving me

9/8/18 1:11 pm

Many holidaymakers are content just to enjoy Rarotonga’s relaxed environment with its warm lagoon and lush tropical mountains. There’s nothing better than a day lying on the beach, snorkelling, swimming, snoozing or simply admiring the scenery from your hammock. But while Rarotonga is perfect for relaxing and re-charging, it also has plenty of activities and cultural experiences to entertain you for days.

For some soft adventure, take Pa’s Cross Country Trek, which traverses the island’s mountains including the iconic Needle.

Take a four-wheel drive adventure tour, hire quad bikes or take a buggy tour, learn to paddleboard or scuba dive, go night diving,

IFC_IBC_BC_SEPT.indd 101

kite surfing or big game fishing.

A lagoon cruise on a glass-bottomed boat is a must-do. You can snorkel alongside tropical fish before going ashore on a palmfringed motu for a barbecue lunch and entertainment involving coconuts, sarongs, music and a good old laugh at life in general.

Many resorts have their own island night with traditional music and dancing.

And there are spectacular shows at the award-winning Highland Paradise Cultural Centre, set in an ancient mountain village at Arorangi, or the stunning theatrical over-water performance at Te Vara Nui in Muri Beach. No matter where you are or what you want to do, the whole island is yours to enjoy.

Aitutaki Often called the honeymoon island, Aitutaki is pure paradise. Only a 40-minute flight north of Rarotonga, it’s spectacularly beautiful, with a triangular-shaped reef surrounding a bright turquoise lagoon containing 15 small motus.

The crystal-clear water is home to bright tropical fish and its pristine white-sand beaches are private and secluded. Exploring the lagoon is an absolute must. Book a lagoon cruise to visit the outer motus and have lunch on One Foot Island, which some consider to be the most beautiful beach in the whole of the South Pacific.

9/8/18 8/8/18 1:16 2:55 pm

Cristiano Ronaldo ©2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.à r.l. All Rights Reserved. Printed on 01/2018.

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9/8/18 1:16 pm