Jetstar July 2018 Magazine

jetstar MAGAZINE

JULY 2018

NORTHERN BITES

Darwin’s food scene is going places

FLYING SOLO

Tips and tricks for parents travelling solo

GOOD AS GOLD

It’s the Gold Coast, but not as you know it

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Promotion I ZOOS VICTORIA

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Get up close to snow leopards these school holidays at the new keeper talks, held daily at 1pm.

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NEW AT MELBOURNE ZOO

CArnIvoRes’ tRaiL Take a walk on the wild side and learn all about top-order predators at Melbourne Zoo these school holidays. From the new Carnivores’ Trail to the recently launched snow leopard keeper talks, there’s plenty to see and do.

?

COatI

Answers: A) Sumatran tiger, B) Tasmanian devil, C) Coati, D) African lion, E) Snow leopard.

eAsy aNd FreE Kids 16 and under visit free on weekends and during public and school holidays in Victoria. Buy your tickets online now at: zoo.org.au/carnivores

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TAsmAniAn DEviL

?

AFriCan lIon

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SUmaTraN tIgeR

MAtcH tHe PreDatOr wIth thE fAct Pencil in your answers over the question marks (answers bottom left)

A B C D E

This carnivore attacks their prey from the rear and takes an average of 10 to 20 attempts to succeed in a kill.

This creature, endemic to Australia, is the largest living carnivorous marsupial in the world.

This carnivore has a sensitive, pig-like snout that is extremely flexible.

The roar of which animal can be heard up to eight kilometres away, and even flattens the nearby grass with its impact.

This animal, which primarily lives in arid, mountain areas, can launch to great heights in one single leap.

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July

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46 ON THE COVER A pint-size skier learns the ropes at New Zealand’s Cardrona ski field PHOTOGRAPHY: Cardrona Alpine Resort

Explore by bike

contents JULY 2018

EXPERIENCE

31

10 I WHAT’S ON

46 I PHOTO ESSAY

12 I NEWS

Explore Vietnam’s wondrous waterways at daybreak

17 I #JETSTAR

55-74 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Snap-happy travellers’ shots

18 I MY PLACE

From national parks to dining delights in the NT’s Top End

Visit Williamstown with comedian Shaun Micallef

Discover the season’s best ski

20 I THE SHORTLIST

86 I THE COMEBACK KID

77 I POWDER FORECAST

Unconventional amusement parks across the network

How the Gold Coast bloomed

22 I HOW TO

NZ’s geothermal marvels

Keep a travel journal

25 I DRINK UP

34

EXPLORE

Warm up with a hot cocoa from a chocolate brewhouse

27 I FOOD ICON

94 I NATURE AT WORK 103 I URBAN OASIS Get outdoors in Hong Kong

111 I SHIFTING SANDS Hiking the Sunshine Coast

118 I HOP TO IT!

The Japanese tongue-twisting dish that’s stealing hearts

A craft beer boom hits Sydney’s inner west

31 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

127 I SOLO TRAVELS

From temples to tombs in Huê΄

Tips and tricks for solo parents going it alone

34 I RECIPE

168 I BACKPAGE

Celebrate Christmas in July with a classic roast

Tales from row 57

36 I SPA & WELLNESS Float away your troubles inside an isolation tank

38 I HEALTH Train with a ninja in Kyoto

40 I GET THE LOOK

94

ESSENTIALS 142 I Jetstar news 150 I Where we fly

Design a rad rumpus room

157 I Games and puzzles

42 I WORK AND PLAY

163 I Entertainment

Meet the creatives who’ve left the rat race for rural life

guide

5

Welcome I GROUP CEO

We’re here for you JETSTAR MAGAZINE is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia +61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com.au Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Simon Tsang Editor Krysia Bonkowski Deputy Editor Chloe Cann Subeditors Leanne Tolra and Diana Baxter Designers Natalie LaChina and Sarah McMillan Picture Editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved.

Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015.

Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

Our team is always here to help

E

very single day more than a thousand Jetstar pilots and cabin crew members take to the skies to help get you to where you want to go. I want to share a story from earlier this year to remind passengers of the amazing lengths our crew will go to ensure that everyone has a safe and pleasant flight – even when challenges arise.

In February, a Jetstar flight from Honolulu to Melbourne was diverted to Sydney due to a medical emergency. One of our customers, Maree, was returning home from a holiday with friends in Hawaii to celebrate her 77th birthday when she suffered a stroke on board.

Maree’s friend, Allison, was the first to notice and alerted our cabin crew, who quickly assisted Maree and notified the Captain.

Captain Peter Clements immediately contacted Sydney

Airport – the closest at the time – to request a priority landing so that Maree could receive urgent medical assistance.

Paramedics met the aircraft on arrival, and within just 90 minutes of suffering the stroke, Maree had gone from being at 43,000 feet to undergoing lifesaving treatment at Sydney’s Royal Prince Alfred Hospital.

Just weeks later, the doctors contacted us to say Maree had made a near-full recovery, which was made possible by the quick thinking of our crew.

Recently, Captain Clements and the crew had the opportunity to reunite with Maree and her friends, who thanked everyone involved. It was a very special occasion and a reminder of the important role our crew play each and every day.

No matter who you are or where you’re flying today, our team is always here to help.

Gareth Evans Jetstar Group CEO

The reunion

7

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Go your own Hue

PHOTO ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

A market-hopping, pagoda-admiring, banh mi-eating guide to Vietnam’s former capital, on page 31.

LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

Experience I WHAT’S ON

Hit the ski slopes!

July

Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Darwin Lions Beer Can Regatta 22 July Darwin, Northern Territory

Born in ’74 as a creative answer to a local litter problem, this boat race sees improvised vessels, made from the likes of cans and milk cartons, launch and flounder off Mindil Beach. beercanregatta.org.au

Huon Valley Mid-Winter Festival

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Unleash your inner pagan at the Willie Smiths’ cider shed. Join the ritual of wassailing – belting out a tune and banging pots and pans to scare bad spirits from the orchards ahead of the autumn harvest – before retreating to the bonfire for a restorative cider and winter feast.

Open House Melbourne

huonvalleymidwinterfest.com.au

28-29 July Melbourne, Victoria

Marlborough Book Festival

Winter Wonderlights

Abbey Medieval Festival

From food writing to political satire and historical fiction, there’s something for all at this book festival. What’s more, talks are hosted at an array of interesting venues – think wineries, theatres and even onboard a 20-metre catamaran. marlboroughbookfest.co.nz

Christmas comes early in the Gold Rush-era replica village Sovereign Hill. Expect seasonal decorations, theatrical performances and kid-friendly activities, plus faux snowfalls and light shows that dance on Main Street’s historic facades. winterwonderlights.com.au

Venture north of Brisbane and back into Europe’s Middle Ages for the Abbey Museum of Art and Archaeology’s festival, now in its 29th edition. Think jousting tournaments, traditional dances and banquets worthy of a Medieval court. abbeymedievalfestival.com

6-8 July Marlborough, New Zealand

Until 22 July Ballarat, Victoria

14-15 July Caboolture, Queensland

Open the door to a fascinating array of private and public buildings during this architectural smorgasbord event. A total of 224 buildings await – from corporate hubs to ingenious home renovations – along with talks, screenings and exhibitions. openhousemelbourne.org

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA / JAMES SPENCER, RHIANNON SLATTER, CIAF, AIMEE CATT

13-15 July Huon Valley, Tasmania

Experience I WHAT’S ON

SINGAPORE

Singapore Food Festival 13-29 July Singapore

From hawker-hall eats to cutting-edge gastronomy, savour the Lion City’s culinary clout. Think collabs between top chefs, plus masterclasses, open-air street feasts and more. visitsingapore.com/en

Revelation Perth International Film Festival 5-18 July Perth, Western Australia

This festival showcases 120plus international films, with experimental titles and docos taking pride of place. revelationfilmfest.org

Beer & BBQ Fest 6-8 July Adelaide, South Australia

An homage to birds and bovine cooked low and slow, plus exotic brews, Beer & BBQ Fest’s Sunday program is family (and pooch) friendly, while Friday and Saturday’s sessions promise to be more raucous. beerbbqfest.com.au

Splendour in the Grass 20-22 July Byron Bay, New South Wales

An almighty line-up of US rappers, Scottish synth-pop bands and Australian folk and indie duos make up the bill at this music festival, said to be the largest of its kind in the country during the winter months. splendourinthegrass.com

It’s a great month to…

GO dry for the month of July, and raise funds to help support Australians battling cancer. dryjuly.com

TASTE the flavours of the Sunshine State at Regional Flavours food and wine festival, held in Queensland’s capital 21-22 July. regionalflavours. com.au

HONOUR Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander women during this year’s NAIDOC Week (8-15 July). naidoc.org.au

Cairns Indigenous Art Fair 12-15 July Cairns, Queensland

This annual event centres on the work of Queensland’s Indigenous artists, creating an ethical marketplace, and attracting collectors from near and far. ciaf.com.au

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Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

FOOD TREND

Q&A

with Doctors Trish and Wally Franklin INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

What are some of your other top spots for whale watching in Australia?

What whale species visit Hervey Bay?

What’s so magical about seeing whales in the wild?

The major species of whale people can expect to see in Hervey Bay are humpback whales, however minke whales can occasionally be seen, and, rarely, Bryde’s whales and southern right whales. Turtles, seabirds and several species of dolphins – including bottlenose, and Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins – can also be seen.

What makes the region special for whale sightings?

Hervey Bay is a unique location for vessel-based humpback whale watching.

It’s a wide, shallow, sandy and protected bay, formed by the mainland of Australia and the Heritage-listed Fraser Island. Mature early pregnant or resting females are first to use the bay from mid-July to early September. They travel in company with the immature cohort of younger male and female humpback whales – known as the ‘August Whales’ by the Hervey Bay Whale Watch fleet because of how they interact with the whale-watching vessels. From September until mid-November Hervey Bay is dominated by mature females accompanying entertaining new calves and escorted by very few mature males.

There are numerous locations for whale watching along the east coast of Australia, however, unlike Hervey Bay, these locations are in the coastal migratory corridor where whales are travelling north or south, and generally do not stop to interact with vessels. Hervey Bay is a stopover, with humpback whales spending on average two weeks in the bay.

Close contact with humpbacks is an incredible experience that has a deep emotional impact for those having the encounter.

Can you remember your first whale encounter?

Our first encounter was in 1989 when our small vessel was surrounded by a surfaceactive group of whales, which we now know to have been a group of inquisitive immature male and female whales. It was a profoundly moving experience, which was the inspiration for us to commit the next 25 years [sic] of our lives to studying the incredible Hervey Bay humpbacks. oceania.org.au

The distinctive fluke of ‘Nala’, a whale Trish and Wally Franklin have observed in Hervey Bay for more than a dozen seasons.

Taste of a destination A growing collection of regional cooking schools are offering visitors a lasting souvenir of their holidays in the form of a tasty new skill.

The Barossa Valley’s eminent foodie family, the Beers, are adding an experiential element alongside the farm shop and restaurant at their Pheasant Farm property in the South Australian wine region.

The Eatery Cooking Class provides state-of-theart equipment for lessons in classic recipes and techniques, with the Gin School for those who want to try their hand at distillation.

Up in Tropical North Queensland, Melbourne expats chef Benjamin Wallace and green thumb Rachael Boon have recently opened Oaks Kitchen & Garden (pictured above) in Oaks Beach, just outside of Port Douglas.

It offers hands-on classes in South East Asian cuisine with ingredients plucked from the thriving gardens.

In NSW, food presenter, editor and stylist Anna Phillips and team opened the doors to The Cook’s Cooking School (pictured below) late last year in the Southern Highlands town of Bowral, while further south in coastal Bermagui, chef Kelly Eastwood left behind a career as a TV producer for shows such as River Cottage Australia and Family Food Fight to establish the instantly successful Eastwood’s Deli and Cooking School in April.

The Eatery Cooking Class provides state-of-the-art equipment

PHOTOGRAPHY ORTZI, LOST CAMEL HOTEL, HEY TIGER

12

With the gentle giants of the oceans tracing Australia’s eastern coastline once more, Queensland’s Hervey Bay gets ready to welcome whale watchers from around the globe. Doctors Trish and Wally Franklin, of The Oceania Project, have observed and studied the region’s annual visitors since ’89. Here they share what makes the warm waters such a special spot.

Experience I NEWS

WINE AND DINE

JUST OPENED

Desert dreaming

yum!

Adding even more incentive to visit the heart of Australia, the Red Centre will receive new, boutique-style accommodation this month with the reopening of the Lost Camel Hotel within the Ayers Rock Resort. Between trips into Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, guests can take advantage of Voyages’ suite of free activities and the Lost Camel’s central swimming pool. ayersrockresort.com.au

Basque in the

Harbour City

Sydney can say “kaixo” to a new favourite, with the opening of Basque-inspired eatery Ortzi in Surry Hills last month. Inspired by the rustic, field-to-fork culinary traditions of the European region, the ever-changing menu of pinxtos – think jamon croquettes and smoked anchovies – is best shared with your closest lagun (friend). ortzi.com.au

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CHOCOHOLIC ALERT

HAPPINESS IN THE MAIL

New Australian chocolate purveyor Hey Tiger delivers prettily packaged goodie bags from its collection of 22 experimental flavours, featuring surprising combinations such as lychee and mint or peanut butter and pretzels.

Founder Cyan Ta’eed put aside a career as a tech entrepreneur to kickstart the venture, working with The Hunger Project to source ethical cocoa from West Africa to craft bars that taste as good as they look.

heytiger.com.au

Experience I NEWS

WE’RE LOVING

THREE OF A KIND

School holiday hits KEEP LITTLE MINDS AND HANDS BUSY WITH THESE FUN ACTIVITIES

Pretty in pastels

Back to basics

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1

Get arty

On thin ice

2

Can’t make it to the snow this year? Grab the kids, lace up the skates and head to any of the nine pop-up rinks around Australia these school holidays from Skating At Festivals.

The open-air winter wonderlands will be returning to VIC, NSW, WA, ACT, QLD and SA. skatingat.com.au

Helping kids evolve beyond macaroni sculptures, Melbourne’s ArtPlay series offers up to 300 annual workshops from a space behind Federation Square. There are handson classes in everything from conceptual art to printing custom tote bags and crafting wild costumes. fedsquare.com

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PERFECTLY PACKED Just one year old, Australian accessories brand NEO/PREEN provides excellent travelling companions. Made from neoprene, the bags can deal with spills, sweat, snow and sand, and come in two sizes: the Mini ($59), to hold cards, keys and cash or toiletries, and the Large ($79), which is big enough to hold a tablet and life’s other essentials. neo-preen.com

FASHION WITH HEART

Northern exposure Social enterprise NORTH offers aesthetically pleasing wares that are not only ethically produced but also interwoven with the stories of its designers – Indigenous artists who inhabit remote corners of the never-never.

The online shop of the Darwin-based company features silk and linen cushions, tote bags, eye masks and more, while its new Warlu Collection (shirts, dresses, shorts) will be available through a pre-order campaign on ING’s crowdfunding platform Dreamstarter until 18 July. northhome.org

PHOTOGRAPHY NEO/PREEN, CONCIOUS KIDS, ARTPLAY, SKATING AT FESTIVALS, NORTH

If you think climbing trees is an essential part of growing up, pack the little ones off with Conscious Kids these holidays. Reviving the art of playing outdoors, the Auckland-based program leads naturebased playdays around the city for kids aged five to 12. consciouskids.co.nz

For shifting sites.

Or seeing sights.

We’ve got a great range of vehicles that are up for anything. So whatever the job calls for, call us on 13 27 27 or visit budget.com.au.

Experience I #JETSTAR

@nzmark2001

@hayleyfeesh

Bali, Indonesia

Queenstown, NZ

@lilia.alexander

Are you a snap-happy traveller?

17

Every day jetsetters share snaps with @JetstarNZ and @JetstarAustralia on Instagram. We recently called out to find the best #JetstarSnapHappyNZ. Here are our winners

Rarotonga, Cook Islands

@healey.j

@alissathepizza

SHARE YOUR JOURNEY Kyoto, Japan

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Don’t forget to add #JetstarAustralia or #JetstarNZ to your travel photos!

Experience I MY PLACE

WEST IS Shaun Micallef on his favourite haunts in Melbourne’s inner west WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

T 18

he legal profession’s loss was the media industry’s gain when Shaun Micallef decided to leave a career in insurance law in the early ’90s to commit to comedy full-time.

He has since entered the Aussie cultural cannon through roles in cult TV shows such as Full Frontal and SeaChange, satirised the news cycle for eight seasons of Mad as Hell, and steered popular panel show Talkin’ ‘Bout Your Generation – which has recently been revived after a six-year hiatus.

When not applying his significant intellect to writing, producing, hosting or acting, Shaun can be found indulging a bit of a seafood obsession in and around his stomping ground Williamstown, a coastal enclave in Melbourne’s west.

Experience I MY PLACE

CLOCKWISE: The local pub named for a queen’s consort, order the fish at the Morning Star Hotel, Shaun’s “favourite restaurant” Bopha Devi.

MORNING STAR HOTEL 3 Electra Street, Williamstown Very convenient (to me anyway, as I live just down the road; I can’t speak for anyone else) and always happy to give you a seat. A table is just as easy to come by. Often I will order whatever the fish is but sometimes I will surprise myself and order a curry. Well, I try and surprise myself – mostly when the food arrives I remember what it is I ordered.

PHOTOGRAPHY NOBLE PHOTOGRAPHY, MORNING STAR HOTEL, PRINCE ALBERT HOTEL

WOK RITE IN 7 Ferguson Street, Williamstown wokritein.com.au My family love the laksa and noodle soups of this fine establishment. The staff are very friendly and will often give me a box to put all the food in and hold open the door as I leave. I also get a free bag of prawn chips; probably because I am a famous TV personality. It’s one of the perks of my profession and I don’t apologise for it.

SPOTTISWOODE HOTEL 62 Hudsons Road, Spotswood spottiswoode.com.au A fine hotel; named, I assume, after the famous film director Roger Spottiswoode (Turner and Hooch [1989], Stop! Or my Mom Will Shoot [1992] and Tomorrow Never Dies [1997]). Very nice food. I enjoy eating the fish.

I will invariably purchase the food and return home to consume it

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YAMABUKI JAPANESE RESTAURANT PRINCE ALBERT HOTEL 149 Douglas Parade, Williamstown princealbert.com.au There’s a picture of Prince Albert out the front and I often wonder whether the people in the front bar watching the football know they are sitting in a hotel named after the man who was once married to – and consorted with – Queen Victoria. Probably not.

I usually order the fish.

BOPHA DEVI 27 Ballarat Street, Yarraville bophadevi.com Now we’re talking. My favourite restaurant. Quiet, and close to the Sun Theatre (my favourite cinema). Cambodian. No fish this time – stuffed poulet (chicken), rice cakes and a tofu Prahok Kh’tih. Tables are hard to come by, but it never fails to be a rich and delightful dining experience.

FOLLOW: @

lef shaunmical

Keep up to date with Shaun on Twitter HOBSONS BAY FISH AND CHIP SHOP 61 Ferguson Street, Williamstown Though there are tables out the front, I will invariably purchase the food and return home to consume it, much in the way a jaguar will pick off a gazelle from the herd and haul it up a tree before he eats it. It’s safer that way – otherwise, while he eats, he too may be attacked by another predator. This is my fear.

Imagine if a giant barramundi drove up onto the footpath and killed me while I was tucking into my ‘fishlaki’. It’d be enough to put you off your food.

26 Ferguson Street, Williamstown Sushi for me, obviously; usually in the form of a moriawase [a combination platter]. Not very adventurous, I know but I damn your judgement; I know what I like!

Again, this will be a takeaway arrangement. While waiting, I will read their architectural magazines. Many are so old they feature the work of Le Corbusier [1887-1965] and refer to him as “that young whippersnapper”. Mmmm, snapper.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

Experience I THE SHORTLIST

1

4. HUIS TEN BOSCH

Theme parks with a difference From fruit-themed fun parks to finding a Dutch world in Japan WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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1. HAW PAR VILLA Singapore hawparvilla.sg Dreamed up in 1937 by the millionaire founders of Tiger Balm, this open-air park of 1000-plus surreal statues and tableaus tells the stories of traditional Chinese folklore. Among the snarling tigers and ornate pagodas, the park’s most famous corner is the Ten Circles of Hell. The nightmarish dioramas of the punishments awaiting sinners have scared generations of Singaporean children onto the straight and narrow.

2. THE BIG BANANA FUN PARK Coffs Harbour, New South Wales bigbanana.com One of Australia’s most iconic ‘Big Things’, the Big Banana first sprung up to promote a humble local banana stand in the ’60s. It has since proven so popular – attracting more than one million people a year – that the site has morphed into an amusement park complete with an ice rink, waterslides and mini-golf course. Of course, you can’t leave without getting the obligatory snap in front of the giant fruit.

3. HENGDIAN WORLD STUDIOS Zhejiang, China hengdianworld.com/en Nicknamed ‘Chinawood’, this sprawling open-air plot in rural Zhejiang province is the world’s largest outdoor film studio. It’s also a working theme park, and a hugely popular domestic tourist attraction that welcomes more than 10 million screen buffs a year. Wander from the replica Qin-dynasty Imperial Palace – featured in films such as Hero – to the streets of colonial Hong Kong, or perhaps catch a kung-fu action sequence being filmed and try to spot a Chinese megastar in the flesh.

Nagasaki, Japan english.huistenbosch.co.jp From peaceful canals to windmills and fields of tulips, Huis Ten Bosch is a picture-perfect slice of Dutch countryside, except for one minor detail – it’s in Japan.

And it wouldn’t be Japan without a few additions, such as a gaggle of life-size replica dinosaurs and a hotel staffed by robots. Even by the standards of a country with a ramen theme park and more than one amusement park dedicated to an anthropomorphised cat, this huge park is a head-scratcher.

5. SPOOKERS HAUNTED ATTRACTION Auckland, New Zealand spookers.co.nz This larger than life haunted house is not for the faint-hearted.

Situated in a former psychiatric hospital, zombie brides and killer clowns lurk around every corner waiting to scare visitors witless.

Some of the action is so intense it carries a 16-plus age limit. Such is the cult that has built up around this spooky theme park that it became the subject of a 2017 documentary, which revealed the lovable characters behind the makeup.

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PHOTOGRAPHY SPOOKERS HAUNTED ATTRACTION, HENGDIAN WORLD STUDIOS, HAW PAR VILLA, THE BIG BANANA FUN PARK, HUIS TEN BOSCH

5

OF THE BEST

URBANITE EVOLVE Keeping the strong design DNA of Urbanite, combined with enhanced features, elegant colours, optimised volumes and more protection than ever before.

This collection will appeal to explorers, daydreamers and thrill seekers alike.

antlerluggage.com.au

Experience I HOW TO

How to

A handy resource

KEEP A Capture the best moments of your trip in your own words with these easy tips WORDS EMILY TATTI

very day’s a whirlwind when you’re travelling. There’s so much to see, do and explore that it’s impossible to remember what you thought and felt every step of the way. Get your favourite memories down on paper, and they’ll live on long after your trip is over.

Start fresh If you haven’t kept a travel journal before (or even if you have), you’ll probably find getting started the hardest part.

Luckily, there’s a remedy for that: the irresistible smell of fresh paper. Go to a stationery store and discover what notebook addicts have long known: there’s nothing more inspiring than a beautiful new journal. Choose a blank notepad if you want to let your imagination roam free, or a travelspecific journal if you need a little guidance.

These notebooks are full of prompts and checklists to help jog your thoughts.

Try being creative

It’s also worth taking a pencil case for stashing more than one pen. Odds are that you’ll run out of ink in the middle of an entry or pens will vanish as if by magic. This helps prevent the pen elves from stealing your back-up.

Express yourself Unlike a blog or an Instagram post, this journal is for you alone, so don’t feel self-conscious about what you put in it. Lose yourself in long diary entries, or make quick bullet-point lists. The format isn’t important as long as you’re having fun. If writing isn’t your strong suit, pack a glue stick

so you can fill the pages with ticket stubs, tourist maps, postcards and photographs instead.

Write on There are no hard and fast rules about what to write.

You don’t even have to wait until you land to get started. Jot down your

itinerary, so you can look back later and see how your plans changed. Once you arrive, make notes about the things you want to remember the most: a list of your favourite restaurants, descriptions of the people you meet, unusual facts you learn,

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS

22

Experience I HOW TO

Love your diary

23

Find quiet moments

goals you achieve.

Include how-to tips about navigating public transport and saying local phrases, because you never know when you’ll be back. Plus you’ll have a handy resource to refer to when friends ask for recommendations.

The format isn’t important as long as you’re having fun

Drop the pressure Just remember, you’re on holiday. While you don’t want to come home with an empty notebook, you don’t want your journal to feel like a chore, either. If you push yourself to write about everything all the time, you could end up

with an affliction known as writer’s block. Reserve your journal for quiet moments, like breakfast time, before bed, or in transit. Boredom does wonders for your creativity. It’s when your best ideas come bubbling to the surface.

Experience I DRINK UP

Hot chocolate Warm up this winter with a cup of local hot cocoa

Gooey goodness

ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

A healthy pour

Just a pinch 25

Dark and delicious

T

he humble hot cocoa takes on rockstar status at North Melbourne café Mörk Chocolate Brewhouse – a hallowed place, dedicated entirely to the winter staple and ethically sourced ingredients. Housed in a converted 1950s-era bakery, the specialty café even boasts its own onsite cacao roasting facility. Smallbatch drinking chocolate

comes in more than a dozen variations here, from chilled chocolate milks to spiced numbers and tea-like brews that see cacao beans steeped in water for 22 hours. Edible accessories, meanwhile, include toasted vanilla bean marshmallows and charcoal salt. This classic recipe relies on little else but quality, local ingredients and a few moments by the stove.

Hot chocolate INGREDIENTS SERVES 1

• 200ml macadamia milk (see recipe on right) • ½ tsp Melbourne City Rooftop Honey • Pinch of Murray River Salt Flakes • 25g Original Dark 70 per cent Mörk Chocolate METHOD Add ingredients to a pot and whisk gently until just hot. Serve instantly.

MACADAMIA MILK SERVES 5

• 1l water • 200g raw macadamias TO PREPARE Add ingredients to a jug.

Blitz until smooth, using a hand blender or kitchen mixer. Strain through a sieve into separate jug.* Keeps in the fridge for up to seven days. *Mörk uses up the remaining macadamia grounds by drying the paste in a 120°c oven and using as flour for baking.

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Experience I FOOD ICON

CLOCKWISE: An edible work of art at Sydney's Jugemu & Shimbashi, making okonomiyaki is a labour-intensive affair, the finishing touches.

nom-nom”-iyaki

Oko-“

Move over ramen, stand aside sashimi, okonomiyaki deserves its time in the spotlight

PHOTOGRAPHY JUGEMU & SHIMBASHI, Y. SHIMIZU / JNTO

WORDS LACHEAN HUMPHREYS

A traditional and longtime favourite dish across Japan, okonomiyaki is yet to see the same recognition outside of the country that other iconic dishes have received. But while katsu, sushi, bento and even onigiri (rice balls) have earned themselves emojis, okonomiyaki brings its own talents to the table – it’s variable, often inexpensive, sometimes an interactive experience and, most importantly, delicious.

The bare bones

Kansai-style

Sometimes referred to as 'Japanese pizza', okonomiyaki is often likened to a savoury pancake or an omelette.

Yaki means 'cooked over direct heat' – as in yakitori (grilled skewers) and yakisoba (fried noodles) – while okonomi means 'to your liking'.

In Japan, you’ll find the dish at dedicated okonomiyaki restaurants, where chefs often cook in front of diners on a large iron griddle, or teppan. Some restaurants offer a DIY scenario, where the diner is given a bowl with the raw ingredients to mix and grill at a table with its own teppan fitted.

There are two main styles of okonomiyaki, each originating from different regions. Kansai style, also known as Osaka style, is the most common across Japan, and abroad.

The savoury batter is made up of flour, water, eggs and shredded cabbage, while fillings often include octopus,

27

Experience I FOOD ICON

Toppings are of utmost importance, and applied generously CLOCKWISE: Eat out counter style in Hiroshima, a fried egg topping at Jugemu & Shimbashi, convenience store food isn't to be sniffed at in Japan, Hiroshima-yaki.

28 shrimp, pork or beef (or all of the above).

Toppings are of utmost importance, and applied generously.

First on is a thick brown glaze of okonomiyaki sauce, followed with zigzags of local Kewpie mayonnaise, finishing with aonori (seaweed flakes) and katsuobushi (dried fish flakes), which dance on top through the heat.

Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, or Hiroshima-yaki, is a little harder to find this side of the equator. The key difference is that ingredients are layered, instead of mixed in with the batter.

The batter in this case is more like a thin crêpe, and cooked separately to the toppings, which include double the cabbage of the Kansaistyle. All the elements are placed on top of the cooked pancake, before the whole thing is flipped onto a sizzling pile of yakisoba noodles (an element distinct to

Hiroshima-yaki).

Some of the city's most popular okonomiyaki shops are located inside Hiroshima Station and Okonomimura – a food park in the city centre. In times past street vendors would gather here, but now you’ll find more than a dozen bricks and mortar okonomiyaki eateries.

In the Melbourne suburb of Collingwood, Papirica is led by Yutaka “Matsu” Matsuda from Osaka.

The humble menu offers pork, vegetarian or vegan okonomiyaki, and Matsu makes his own okonomiyaki sauce with natural ingredients.

In Sydney, head to Jugemu & Shimbashi, specialising in teppanyaki, and specifically Osaka-style okonomiyaki.

Seat yourself at the counter to be front and centre for the cooking process.

Wait … monjayaki?

If you’re in Tokyo, you’ll find okonomiyaki shops in Shibuya, Harajuku and Shinjuku in particular, mostly serving up Kansai style. What you’ll also find is monjayaki, sometimes nicknamed 'monja'. This variety is referred to as 'liquid okonomiyaki', thanks to its runnier batter.

The Tsukishima district is home to Monja Street, which (surprise!) has many monjayaki shops. In these restaurants, you’ll often find regular okonomiyaki on the menu, too.

If you’ve been to Japan before you’ll know some of the best food is found in convenience stores.

So if you’re short on time or are eating on the run then pop into a convenience store and check the fridge for packaged okonomiyaki, which can usually be heated up on the spot.

Keep in mind, walking and eating is considered quite rude in Japan.

There are many other regional variations – such as hirayachi in Okinawa – and countless restaurants delivering their own take on this dish outside of Japan.

And who knows?

Okonomiyaki may just be part of the next emoji update.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, JUGEMU & SHIMBASHI, GETTY IMAGES

Head to Hiroshima

Try it here

An experience above all else

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MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA

Travel with a Cause

next time you travel!

Travel with a Cause, the not-for-profit agency in Hobart, Tasmania making a difference through travel.

The Story Behind

Not-forprofit

For 12 years and counting, Travel with a Cause (TWAC) has been using the profits made from its clients bookings to send computers to schools in Zambia, saving a reef and rainforest from being demolished in Fiji, to purchasing mosquito nets and Lifestraws to send with their clients travelling to developing countries to keep them safe whilst there, and then to leave behind as a legacy.

THE LITTLE AGENCY WITH THE BIG HEART

Toby - the travel dog ;)

Travel Agency Up to the present day TWAC continues its philanthropic policy and being a successful travel agency. Offering a range of travel products including: international and domestic packages, corporate travel, volunteer programs, Workations (get paid to travel) and Group travel.

A TRAVEL AGENCY THAT WILL MAKE YOU GLOBALLY RESPONSIBLE

L to R Amber Tsai Marketing, Mark Banaag International Groups, Calypso Ayres Volunteer and Workations, Sam Buchanan Tassie inbound, Toby Travel Office Dog, Jane Johnston MD and Jazz Adaszysnski International Travel Consultant.

Managing Director Jane Johnston began her career in travel in 1981 with Ansett Holidays. In 1995 she decided to embark on her own agency and because of her knowledge called it "Know How Travel” with the first Australian online travel site Australian Discount Travel & Tours. It wasn’t until a trip to Matangi Island, Fiji with the Fiji Toruist board that the idea of TWAC began.

Remote Matangi Island, (a 2 hour plane ride from Nadi, half an hour 4WD to a beach launch plus another half hour by high power speed boat) struck a soft spot in Jane’s heart as she learnt the only school in the area had been decimated by a cyclone and had only been sent one bag of cement to rebuild.

With a vision to help the Matangi Island school, Jane set up the not for profit accredited agency Travel with a Cause.

TRAVEL with a CAUSE

#MAKE A DIFFERENCE #GROUP TRAVEL SPECIALIST #HOLIDAYS #VOLUNTEER #WORKATION

TWAC has a desire to provide exceptional travel and online travel services, no matter what the requirements, whilst also giving competitive prices. You can make a difference to their cause by booking your travel with them, or by simply giving a tax deductible donation.

1300 1CAUSE (122873) 1st Floor, 41 Victoria St, Hobart TAS 7000 www.travelwithacause.com.au info@twac.org.com.au | ATAS No. A-10921

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

24 HUÊ HOURS IN

Visit Vietnam’s former capital for a taste of history and regional cuisine

Huê΄

WORDS SOFIA LEVIN VIETNAM

EARLY START

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Cycling Imperial-era Huê΄ , statues guarding the tomb of Nguyen emperor Khai Dinh, a spot of shopping at Dong Ba Market, a luxurious base at La Residence Hotel & Spa.

La Residence Hotel & Spa It’s tempting to stay in the colonial comforts of La Residence Hotel & Spa, favoured by royalty, politicians and celebrities such as Danny DeVito and Colin Farrell.

But the buffet breakfast, overlooking the Perfume River, can wait until tomorrow. la-residence-Hue.com

BREAKFAST Dong Ba Market It’s a couple of kilometres to the 100-year-old Dong Ba Market (enter from Tran Hung Dao Street). Arrive before 7am and do a few laps past fresh produce, keeping an eye out for bright orange gac fruit and pots of fermented shrimp. Haggle for sneakers and conical hats, then point and order the bun bo Huê΄ (beef soup) beside locals.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER WISE, GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY

MID-MORNING Royal Tombs Huê΄ is famed for its royal tombs. Start at Minh Mang Tomb, just outside the city.

Walk through Chineseinfluenced temples and over ponds with giant goldfish until you reach the gate in the round wall, which opens annually on the anniversary of the emperor’s death. Nearby is the tomb of Nguyen emperor Khai Dinh. He ruled for nine years from 1916, but it took another 11 to create his lavish resting place, complete with stone statues and intricate mosaic walls. A 15-minute taxi ride will take you on to Tu Duc Tomb, but if you’re hungry, it’s 20 minutes back to town.

31

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

Here be dragons

LUNCH Quan Com Hen 26 There are plenty of Westernised restaurants along Vo Thi Sau, but venture to Quan Com Hen 26 (26 Truong Dinh, Vinh Ninh).

Pull up a plastic stool and slurp local hen (tiny clams) with com, bun, chao (rice, noodles, soup) or crisp sesame rice cakes.

AFTERNOON Imperial City The entrance to Huê΄’s Imperial City is across the bridge, just 15 minutes on foot. The Nguyen Dynasty ended in 1945 and the citadel is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With three ramparts spread across 520 hectares, a guide is a must when exploring regal gates, corridors and temples. Besides, who else will tell you about Emperor Minh Mang’s 500 concubines?

DUSK Thien Mu Pagoda It’s eight minutes by taxi to Huê΄’s iconic Thien Mu Pagoda with views of the Perfume River.

Swarms of tourists photograph the octagonal tower but walk through the gates and look for the car that Thich Quang Duc drove to his fiery death when he set himself alight in protest of a Buddhist massacre in 1963.

Catch a dragon boat along the river back to the centre of the city or directly to La Residence.

EVENING EATS Street food tour vmtravel.com.vn After a nap, take a food tour by foot or cyclo with VM Travel. Highlights include nem lui Huê΄ , minced pork and beef skewered on lemongrass stalks and wrapped in rice paper with pickles, vermicelli and herbs; banh khoai, a crisp pancake stuffed with shrimp and pork belly; and che Huê΄ , dessert soup. Ask to finish at Trang Tien Bridge where you can pick up a caramelised pork banh mi after 9pm and stroll along Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street for some souvenir shopping.

Sofia Levin stayed with assistance from La Residence Hotel & Spa.

a guide is a must when exploring regal gates, corridors and temples

Travel info Jetstar Pacific operates flights to Hue, with connections via Ho Chi Minh City.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER WISE, SOFIA LEVIN, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

32

Dragon boats in wait, a street eats feast in Huê΄ , the Perfume River from Thien Mu Pagoda.

Cristiano Ronaldo Š2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.à r.l. All Rights Reserved. Printed on 01/2018.

TOAST TO A ROAST

SAVOUR A FARM-TO-FORK ROAST AT BRISBANE’S HOT NEW HAUNT WORDS CHLOE CANN

34

month that promises zero public holidays, the tedium of tax returns, and on average the coldest temperatures we’ll see all year, it can feel like there’s little to celebrate in July.

Enter Christmas.

Urban legend has it that the tradition of Christmas in July began in New South Wales’ Blue Mountains in the early 1980s, owing to a group of Irish tourists who wanted an excuse for a party.

Whatever the origins, the

celebration is becoming a firmer diary fixture every year, and not just for English and Irish expats.

“It does seem to be a growing trend,” says Trent Meade, co-owner of Isles Lane, a new gastropubcum-Parisian brasserie in Brisbane’s CBD. Although the venue hasn’t planned any particular Christmas in July themed events, its menu pays homage to all things roasted, from 12-hour slow-roasted dry-rubbed beef brisket, which comes from a farm less than two hours’ drive

away, to cumin-roasted pumpkin with Persian feta and pine nuts, and crispy fried Brussels sprouts with miso butter.

All of the restaurant’s lamb, beef, chicken and eggs are sourced from south-east Queensland farms and supplied direct, while its fruit and veg is supplied by a local farmer.

Not only is local produce of utmost importance to Trent and his business partner Matt Blyth, but the pair have also taken a rather holistic approach to the meat that lands on

the eatery’s tables, buying not just chops and steaks but the entire animal.

“Last week we bought 10 lambs,” says Trent.

“We’re trying to use the whole animal in our menu and we’re looking into how to use the bone and offal. It’s a farm-totable, nose-to-tail story.

It’s good, honest food.”

Tucked away behind the steel and glass of the city’s skyscrapers, Isles Lane lies next to a pocket of secluded greenery. And the restaurant’s bamboo wicker chairs, which face

PHOTOGRAPHY ISLES LANE

Golden and delicious

Experience I RECIPE

INGREDIENTS ROAST POTATOES

outward à la France, are the perfect spot to idle away a few hours in the city’s near year-round sunshine, peoplewatching and sipping on a cold tipple. Conveniently, the drinks menu is just as intriguing as the food, from homegrown bottles of Pét-Nat (a sparkling ‘natural wine’) to Pimm’s on tap and craft beers from across the country (Modus Operandi from Sydney’s Northern Beaches, Moo Brew from the Taswegian founder of Mona and more). There

are some novel riffs on classic cocktails too, such as a Bloody Mary spiked with pickle juice and HP sauce and garnished with a bacon-wrapped bocconcino.

Whether you’re pitching up for a quick post-work drink or settling in for a full Sunday roast, Trent says there’s at least one constant at Isles Lane: “We’ve really tried to build a venue for the local community. We want to be that venue that feels like home.”

The perfect Sunday roast

• 2kg floury potatoes (Maris Pipers or King Edwards) • Vegetable oil or beef dripping (around ½ cup) • 2 sprigs of thyme and rosemary, finely chopped • Salt and pepper to taste • Garnish (be creative!)

METHOD

ROAST SCOTCH FILLET

ROAST POTATOES Preheat oven to 200°C. Wash and peel your potatoes. Place them in salted water and boil until very tender (approx. 20 minutes). Strain carefully, trying not to break them up, and cool completely. Once cooled, chop.

Heat the oil or dripping in a large tray in the oven and place the potatoes inside, shaking the tray to coat them in oil. Place into the oven and roast until golden and crisp. Transfer to a bowl, toss with finely chopped rosemary and thyme and serve.

For extra wow factor garnish with pea tendrils and micro-chives.

ROAST SCOTCH FILLET Pre-heat oven to 200°C and tie the beef at 1-inch intervals (ask your butcher if you don’t know how). Bring the meat to room temperature, brush with oil and mustard, and season generously before placing onto a rack in a tray. Splash a little water into the tray and place in the oven. For rare meat it should take around 50 minutes. For well-done, leave in for around 70, but drop the oven temperature slightly or cut the beef into two pieces prior to roasting. Once done, remove the meat from the oven and rest for 20 minutes.

• 1½-2kg scotch fillet • Oil (vegetable or sunflower) • Salt and pepper • English or Dijon mustard

GLUTEN-FREE GRAVY • 2l beef stock (homemade or shop-bought) • Mirepoix (1 carrot, 1 onion and 1 celery stick, finely chopped) • ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce • ½ can beer (an IPA or lager) • Rosemary and thyme to taste • Xanthan gum (buy online)

GRAVY Get the beef roasting tray and if needed, add water and bring to the boil on the stovetop.

Pour the tray’s contents into the beef stock pot, making sure every last bit goes in. In a second pot, fry off the mirepoix veggies until they have slight colour, then deglaze the pan with Worcestershire sauce and reduce. Add the beer and cook down for a second time.

When almost dry add the beef stock and bring to a boil, adding rosemary and thyme.

Cook for around one hour, then strain into another clean pot.

If the resulting gravy isn’t thick enough, bring it to the boil once more and add xanthan gum in small amounts while whisking.

35

Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

Floating on air Floatation therapy can deliver surprising benefits.

Expect the unexpected WORDS ERIKA MUDIE

SYDNEY FLOAT CENTRE offers a relaxing experience in Warringah and Darlinghurst. sydneyfloatcentre. com.au

Light as air

This one float did more for me than any massage ‘Expect nothing,’ it read.

My expectations were high. Would I be able to adhere to this instruction?

After a rinse under a rain shower, I put in the ear plugs provided and climbed into the tank, lit with a soft, purple light.

As I lay back and became weightless, meditative music played, helping me ease into this new experience.

After 10 minutes the music and lights went

BEYOND REST has facilities in Brisbane’s Coorparoo; Collingwood, Moonee Ponds, Hawthorn East and Prahran in Melbourne; and Wembley and Joondalup in Perth. beyondrest.com.au

BLUE LAGOON FLOAT AND SPA in Adelaide offers floatation therapy and other spa services. bluelagoonfloatandspa. com.au

off and suddenly it was just me, my thoughts, my breath and my inability to shut off.

“Expect nothing. Expect nothing,” I whispered, but alas, a clear mind eluded me.

That’s fine, I still had a great time. With my eyes closed and spatial senses hindered, I’d contemplate where I was relative to the edges of the pod. At one point it occurred to me to try lifting my arms out in front of me. Feeling the weight of gravity on them made me think about how this force acts on my body all day, every day. What a literal drag.

The results? While I may not have achieved a total state of meditation, I did get a great night’s sleep.

And beyond that, my next run was easier and faster.

My shoulder muscles, which are forever tense, were finally relaxed.

This one float did more for me than any massage ever has – and with no awkward chit-chat included.

It’s not often I come away from an experience wishing it could be part of my daily life. However, I now consider myself a float tank believer.

Erika Mudie was a guest of Beyond Rest.

PHOTOGRAPHY BEYOND REST

36

AS I WRITE this, I am T-minus 321 days from turning 30. Approaching a new decade in life has made me think about new forms of self-preservation – both physical and mental. And so I found myself booking in for floatation therapy as a treat for my 29th birthday.

Also known as sensory deprivation or isolation tanks, the first floatation tank was developed in 1954 by Dr John C. Lilly, a US neurophysiologist who studied altered states of consciousness.

Float tank devotees say floating will bring you: a deep sense of calm and relaxation; elimination of fatigue; relief of aches and pains; improved athletic performance; the potential for lucid dreams; and increased creativity and problemsolving ability. Basically, it seems to tick all my physical and mental self-preservation boxes.

When I showed up at Beyond Rest in Melbourne’s Prahran I could tell the space was designed to soothe the senses. The lighting was soft, the sounds hushed and the scent of vanilla perfumed the air.

During the induction, I caught sight of a decal on the door of my room.

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Experience I HEALTH

Ninja in the making Learn to fight like a Japanese warrior with ninja training in Kyoto WORDS CHRISTINE RETSCHLAG

Ninja master Izo Ichikawa.

INSET: Ninjas in training at Kyoto’s Ninja Dōjō.

Ready for action

Try it here Who knew barbecue skewers could come in so handy? motion, Izo teaches me how to remove my weapon with ease, the correct way to slice my opponent and how to gracefully flick their blood from my sword.

Izo introduces me to the many ninja weapons available. Who knew barbecue skewers and chopsticks could come in so handy?

While most of the weapons are replicas, he allows me to use authentic ninja killersharp throwing stars, which I hurl at the wall.

Izo hands me a blowpipe and tells me to hit a target on the wall.

At first, I fail. He then instructs me to “clear my mind” and that my heart must be “pure”.

Inside Japan Tours offers ninja training as part of its packages. insidejapantours.com For more details, head to the Ninja Dōjō and Store. ninjadojoandstore.com

I purify my mind and hit the target four out of four times. I am now a ninja.

Despite his fierce fighting techniques, Izo is an encouraging and passionate teacher. I have much to learn and will be back for more.

PHOTOGRAPHY KYOTO NINJA DOJO

38

I’VE LONG suspected I am more ninja ‘worrier’ than warrior, so imagine my delight at learning that warrior training exists.

I am standing in Kyoto’s Ninja Dōjō and Store, dressed in an allblack outfit and adorned with a black headband, learning to become a ninja. Japan’s covert agents in feudal times, ninjas were renowned for their unorthodox fighting methods, including infiltration and assassination.

We start with meditation and breathing through several mantras and moves. I learn how to walk with stealth, placing my little toes down first, before surrendering my big toe to the mat.

I discover the many uses of a sword, and even the hollow sheath, which can be pressed against a wall to eavesdrop on your enemy or used as a snorkel if you are trapped underwater. There are also many secret ninja hiding places, such as discreet panels in walls, and ways to conceal weapons on your person.

But the real lesson begins upstairs, where I meet ninja master Izo Ichikawa. In a fluid-like

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem.

What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill.

Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up.

New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established. With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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Experience I GET THE LOOK

It’s playtime

Insider style

Create a vibrant rumpus room that’s as fun for them as it is functional for you WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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2.

3.

4.

6.

5.

Stylish storage

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Belinda Kurtz of Petite Interior Co. talks through her design for Penelope and Ivy’s playroom (left) What was the brief?

This room was inspired by a magazine clipping, which featured an amazing mural by artist Leah Bartholomew.

Luckily for me, Leah lives on the Gold Coast (my client was in Brisbane) and she was only too happy to come up with a mural design. I then created the rest of the room for the girls to craft, play and store all of their favourite things.

How do you foster kids’ creativity through a space?

It’s hard not to feel inspired in a room as colourful as this, but you don’t have to be as bold .... I encourage my clients to keep some toys on display, children tend to play with what they can see.

Luckily, there’s so many toys and games that are just as beautiful to look at as they are to play with – choose a few to mix in with the plastic pieces that children love.

How do you approach designing a child’s space?

Understanding how the room is going to function is key.

If a child has a collection, we look for ways to create a feature out of it. I also look for ways to be smart with storage. If you create a design based around storage, you’ll have tidier and more practical rooms that are also beautiful. petiteinteriorco.com.au

STYLING PETITE INTERIOR CO.

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

The treechanger Two years ago, cookbook author, teacher and digital creative Kate Walsh swapped life in inner Sydney for the hinterland of Byron Bay and she couldn’t be happier. Here’s how she did it WORDS PETER BARRETT

And what was the final straw?

When my daughter turned two and I was looking at going back to full-time work, the only day care I could get her into had not one blade of grass. I realised this wasn’t the kind of childhood I wanted for her.

So, where did you go?

I live in a house on a big block on the edge of Bangalow, a gorgeous small town in the Byron Bay hinterland. I’m surrounded by organic farms, incredible beaches, waterfalls and rainforest. It’s a totally different way of life.

Meet Kate

Kate Walsh (inset) changed pace in the dreamlike Byron Bay hinterland.

I’m excited because I work exclusively with local farmers and artisans

How did your working life change?

I was lucky because I started doing cooking classes at Harvest Newrybar restaurant and now I’m doing private classes in Byron Bay and Brisbane at Food Connect, only two hours away. My digital marketing business transferred really easily and I’m excited because

now I work pretty much exclusively with local farmers and artisans, helping them grow their businesses.

Any tips for aspiring treechangers?

Rent before you buy, do your research on where you want to live, and do the hard numbers when it comes to [finances]. realfoodprojects.com

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, KATE WALSH, JO PALMER, RHYS BOWER, AGRARIAN KITCHEN, JAMES CECIL

42

What was life like for you in the big smoke?

For most of my 30s I spent my time flipping between New York and Sydney. I was a digital strategist working with non-profits and ethical businesses. I released a cookbook (Real Food Projects) in 2016 and was running a cooking school in Sydney. In other words, I was suffering from being too busy.

Experience I WORK & PLAY

How to make remoteworking work

COUNTRYSIDE CONVERTS 1. THE LAWYER Rhys Bower had a great job in Canberra with one of the country’s top law firms but realised that work threatened to take over family life.

So he picked up sticks and moved to country NSW, where his wife grew up. Today the family of five (with children aged eight, six and three) lives in Wagga Wagga and Rhys has started his own legal practice with a colleague. He sometimes misses Canberra and Sydney’s vibrant culture but says his new familyfriendly lifestyle far outweighs any negatives. bowerwood.com.au

1

2 3. THE MUSIC PRODUCER James Cecil moved his inner-city recording studio Super Melody World to a historic primary school building near Hanging Rock in Victoria last December. The former member of indie Australian band Architecture In Helsinki has recorded the music of dozens of bands. The idea behind the move was to give performers a serene, secluded spot away from city distractions, so they could focus and relax into the creative process.

Those who have made the lessthan-an-hour’s drive have been happy with the results, James says. james.supermelody.com

2. THE FARMERS In 2007, chef and former food editor at Gourmet Traveller Rodney Dunn, and his wife Severine Demanet, left Sydney for life in a 19th-century schoolhouse in Tasmania’s Derwent Valley, 45 minutes north of Hobart. It took them a year to open their Agrarian Kitchen Cooking School and Farm, which includes five acres of vegetable gardens and orchards.

More recently, they opened a restaurant in nearby New Norfolk.

The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery specialises in local, seasonal produce. theagrariankitchen.com

43

Three tips from Jo Palmer, founder of remote work jobmatching platform, Pointer 1) It’s about communication.

“Key performance indicators and deadlines are important but general office banter is vital for a positive remoteoffice environment. We use [project management and team communication software] Basecamp as our virtual water cooler.”

2) Don’t get distracted.

“Be organised and have set ‘office’ hours so that you don’t fall into the trap of working late into the night.”

3) Remember to exercise.

3

“Regular walks, going to the gym with a friend or taking your dog to the park are all part of the joys of working remotely.” pointerremoteroles.com

Where the sun shines

Wander into the wilds on the Cooloola Great Walk. To read more about exploring the great outdoors of the Sunshine Coast, turn to page 111.

PHOTOGRAPHY @REUBENNUTT

45

DARWIN I ROTORUA I VIETNAM I AND MORE

Market life (left to right) Sellers keep their stalls in perfect order at the markets in Cần Tho; sun and shoppers emerge following a downpour.

46

Photographer Emma Byrnes discovers Vietnam is at its finest in the early morning light

Vietnam’s bounty

VIETNAM I WATERWAYS

47

48

Catch of the day (left to right) Rearranging freshly caught fish.

Fishing boats cluster together in the village of Duy Vinh.

49

Caught in a web A fisherman paddles over to check his haul after cranking his net out of the water with a hand-powered winch.

50

51

Explore I VIETNAM

Waterways of wonder Venturing out into the rivers of Vietnam by dawn proves fruitful for photographer Emma Byrnes WORDS NIKOLA SARBINOWSKI

F

VIETNAM Ho Chi Minh City

and the rising sun creates the perfect lighting for photography.

“The colours and the textures – things are just amplified there,” says Emma, of travelling in Vietnam. “There’s so much chaos that you can’t help but be stimulated.

“So much of the commerce happens from daybreak until about seven o’clock,” she explains. “As soon as the sun comes up above the horizon you can feel the intensity of that heat.”

Similar routines take place across the country.

In the tiny fishing village of Duy Vinh, near the famous town of HÔi An, a man stands on the street feeding blocks of ice through a machine. Frosty peaks form on the concrete

and condensation coils in the golden dawn light. He scoops up the shavings and shovels it into bags, ready to chill the fish that will soon be hauled up by the fishermen who keep watch over enormous nets.

“It felt like they were so in tune with what was going on,” Emma explains.

“You’d see them sitting, looking out into the water and they were obviously seeing something that I wasn’t. Then they’d all start moving their winches up and down.”

By 6.45am the fishermen sit on dry land, playing cards in hand and the morning’s catch glistening in woven baskets. When the heat of the day fades, they’ll return to their posts and start the pattern all over again.

About the photographer Melbourne-based lifestyle photographer Emma Byrnes has been wielding a lens since high school.

These days, she loves working with people to tell their stories through photography. Her agency, Heartland Projects, helps brands develop a visual language. emmabyrnes.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Ho Chi Minh City from Melbourne and Sydney.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA BYRNES

52

loating islands of mangoes, jackfruit and rambutans fill the waterways at C ần Tho, a city at the mouth of the Mekong Delta. Every minute the archipelago shifts as sellers paddle their produce to the next potential customer.

In Vietnam, the Mekong is known as the Nine-Dragons River, and the network of braided rivers empties into the South China Sea from the country’s southern coast.

The delta that it forms nourishes the food bowl of the nation.

“There was a feel that it was the source – that there was this extra special bounty,” says Australian photographer Emma Byrnes, whose background in broadcast and photojournalism helped hone her fly-on-the-wall style photography.

“The floating markets were so deliriously dynamic,” Emma says.

“The boats attach themselves to you like pilot fish. They offer you all sorts of goodies.”

On land, market stalls offer yet more produce; deep purple mangosteens sit in tidy stacks and spiky durian add texture to the scenery and pungency to the air. At 5am the streets are already busy,

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You’re enthused, but he’s been abused.

To give you those pics, he’s prodded with sticks.

Why are wild animals put to such use?

There’s no excuse, it’s abuse.

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DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Darwin NORTHERN TERRITORY

Uluru (Ayers Rock)

THE TOP END

Contents

56 I PRICELESS

PARKS

Explore the Top End’s wilds on a budget

65 I DARWIN

DINING

Eat your way around the balmy NT capital

72 I TAKE A BITE

PHOTOGRAPHY MERCURE KAKADU CROCODILE HOTEL

Come face-to-face with the NT’s most legendary residents

55

Explore I NT NATIONAL PARKS

THE TOP END ON A 56

shoestring

There’s much to see in the NT and it doesn’t have to be a costly adventure WORDS TATYANA LEONOV

T

here’s not long to go … a few more steps, a quick scramble up the redtinged rocks, and then a view touted as one of the best in the country awaits.

Ubirr is one of Kakadu National Park’s most stunning sites, home to some of the world’s best-preserved rock art and renowned for its epic sunsets. Most people start with the largely flat 1km circuit, following a trail that weaves its way past

57

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, PETER EVE/TOURISM NT

CLOCKWISE: A million-dollar view at Ubirr, ancient artistry at Nourlangie, visit in the dry season for clear skies, vast landscapes in Nourlangie.

rock art from various eras (newer illustrations are etched over older ones).

Indigenous people once camped under these rock shelters and used the smooth rock faces to tell their stories.

Next, a 250-metre climb takes visitors to one of the best lookouts in the national park. If you’re lucky (and the timing is right), a kaleidoscope of oranges, pinks and purples will sashay across the sky, accentuating the vibrant greens and dusty

brown plains below. It’s an incredible way to finish a day of exploring. Best of all, the whole experience doesn’t cost a cent.

The Northern Territory is home to 24 national parks, 73 nature reserves, conservation areas, historical reserves and marine parks; some of the most spectacular a short drive from Darwin.

Kakadu National Park is the best-known and one of only four places in Australia dual-listed

by UNESCO for its

outstanding natural and cultural values (UluruKata Tjuta National Park, the Willandra Lakes Region in NSW and the Tasmanian Wilderness round out the list). Here, sites such as Ubirr and Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) provide some of Australia’s best rock art.

There are also plenty of other natural playgrounds – all you need to do is a bit of background research and arm yourself with a sense of adventure.

In the beginning Darwin is surrounded by national parks, which makes it an ideal launching pad for Top End escapades. There’s Kakadu – of course – Australia’s largest national park covering more than 20,000 sq km.

Nitmiluk National Park is another huge and beautiful area of NT vastness. The park is made up of 13 different gorges, offering spectacular

Explore I NT NATIONAL PARKS

58

hiking adventures and water-based activities.

The smaller Litchfield National Park is full of beautiful waterholes, some showered by spring-fed waterfalls from the sandstone plateau above. Swimming in the waterholes at the bottom of these majestic waterfalls is an unforgettable experience.

There are plenty of other national parks close to Darwin too; Djukbinj National Park and Mary River National Park

are both within driving distance. There’s even a national park close to Darwin International Airport: the Charles Darwin National Park is a lush expanse of wetlands and woodlands sitting on Frances Bay. The easiest way to explore these ravishing wonderlands with greater access and freedom is to drive your own 4WD. Bring your own tent or campervan for more sleeping choices. Renting a car is a good option,

although it’s worth noting that most rental companies don’t allow 2WDs on unsealed roads (some don’t allow 4WDs either; check the terms and conditions).

For those who don’t want to drive, joining a coach or 4WD tour is the best way to experience these destinations — and there’s the added benefit of a guide.

A good night’s rest Camping in the Top End’s national parks offers the greatest range of budget-friendly accommodation,

Litchfield National Park is full of beautiful waterholes

Passes and Permits Visitors need to purchase a park pass for Kakadu National Park, but the other national parks don’t require one. If you’re driving through Aboriginal Land in the NT you must also secure a permit.

PHOTOGRAPHY SAM EARP/TOURISM NT, TOURISM AUSTRALIA, PETER EVE/TOURISM NT

CLOCKWISE: Sail into the sunset in Nitmiluk Gorge, chasing waterfalls through Litchfield, explore Kakadu at your own pace with 4WD.

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Explore I NT NATIONAL PARKS

CLOCKWISE: Comfy digs at Flash Camp, cool down in Cooinda Lodge’s pool, a billabong cruise is worth the money. INSET: Twitching on the Top End.

60 also caravan parks and campgrounds in Jabiru.

The Yellow Water region has a range of accommodation options, including rooms at Cooinda Lodge, spots to pitch your tent or set up your caravan at Cooinda Campground & Caravan Park, and Flash Camp – for campers who want to ramp up the luxury factor – set up from midJune to mid-September.

For anyone passing through, the lagoon pool at Cooinda Lodge is free for all. South Alligator Resort and Mary River Roadhouse are two more hubs, with a variety of accommodation options — and that’s just Kakadu.

The other national parks are comparably structured, with bush sites and managed camp

sites making up the bulk of offerings. Nitmiluk, for example, has a good choice of accommodation styles ranging from unpowered camp sites to luxury lodging.

crocs can be seen lurking in the tranquil waters

Wild at heart The beauty of the Australian outback is that it’s largely free to explore.

Experiences such as trekking through the fragrant bush, swimming in hidden waterholes, learning about ancient rock art, or kicking back in a camp chair and listening to the trees rustling, don’t cost a cent.

However, there are certain things you can only do as part of a guided tour and many are worth the expense.

Cruising along the Yellow Water Billabong

in Kakadu and through the gorges at Nitmiluk are two examples. The birdlife is abundant, the scenery is weird and wonderful, and cunning crocs can be seen lurking in the tranquil waters – watching people watch them – an experience that is both riveting and spine-chilling. It’s worth noting that guests staying at Cooinda Lodge receive a discount if they decide to go on a second cruise.

There are plenty of other tours across the parks. The free ranger

PHOTOGRAPHY COOINDA LODGE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, LORDS-SAFARIS.COM

ranging from basic bush sites to managed campgrounds with wellmaintained facilities.

How they function varies from park to park.

In Kakadu, the basic sites run on a first-in, best-dressed system, while the managed sites can sometimes be prebooked. If you simply can’t holiday without knowing where you’ll sleep, there’s a range of accommodation options scattered around the park to fit your budget.

The township of Jabiru is the biggest hub and guests looking to splurge should stay at Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel.

Sure, it’s not the cheapest option in town, but where else in the world will you find a hotel built in the shape of a croc? There are

Clean is the new Black.

#cleanbar

Explore I NT NATIONAL PARKS CLOCKWISE: Gorge-ous Nitmiluk, Leliyn (Edith Falls) makes a splash, Jatbula Trail is a bucketlist walk.

Cost-free fun

program (from May to September) in Kakadu National Park is one of the best. Updated information is available online at parksaustralia.gov.au, and at the Bowali Visitor Centre in Jabiru and the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre in the Yellow Water region. The

program – led by rangers and traditional owners the Bininj/Mungguy people – includes guided rock art walks and cultural activities.

Other top experiences are canoeing through the beautiful gorges of Nitmiluk and soaking up the beauty of Jawoyn Country at your own pace.

When it comes to Litchfield National Park, self-touring is a great option for those on a budget. There are plenty of information

signs, signposted bush walks, picnic sites and campgrounds to make for a comfortable visit.

At Wangi Falls there’s even free Wi-Fi. Many companies also offer daytour packages departing from Darwin.

Activities in Nitmiluk National Park are based around Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge and Leliyn (Edith Falls), with a number of operators offering tours as well as accommodation, Nitmiluk Tours is one of the biggest. Highlights include swimming in waterholes, canoeing, cruising and hiking.

The five-day Jatbula Trail is a magnificent 62km track that takes in everything from rock art and waterfalls to rainforest terrain.

It can be undertaken independently or as part of a tour.

Whichever park, or parks, you choose to explore, the Top End will leave you exhilarated and wanting more. It’s lucky, then, that Darwin is easy to get to and these parks are all a short driving distance away.

Tatyana Leonov was a guest of Kakadu Tourism

Pick your park For a great resource on NT national parks, check nt.gov.au/leisure/parksreserves/find-a-park-tovisit.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Darwin from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AUSTRALIA, PETER EVE/TOURISM NT

62

self-touring is a great option for those on a budget

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www.LA CALOnGTIm E.COm

Explore I DARWIN

PHOTOGRAPHY LANEWAY SPECIALITY HOUSE, WHARF ONE, TRADER BAR

Darwin

TOP (END) TASTES

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Start the day at Laneway Specialty House, platters aplenty at Wharf One, cocktail hour at Trader Bar.

65

FROM INDIGENOUS POP-UPS TO INDUSTRIAL ITALIAN JOINTS, DARWIN IS COOKING WITH GAS WORDS BELINDA LUKSIC

Explore I DARWIN

I 66

t’s Saturday, and the Parap Village Markets are buzzing.

People are intent on one thing – tucking into a bowl of piping-hot laksa for less than $10. “I’m number one.

But, people’s choice – it’s best!” says Christine of Yati’s Laksa as she ladles a spicy, coconut milk broth over plump prawns and egg and rice noodles.

Yati’s recently pipped its longtime rival, Mary’s Laksa, as the Top End’s laksa of choice – but ask the locals and opinion is still divided.

Around the corner at Mary’s, the queues are just as long, with people lining up for her grandmother’s green papaya salad as much as the laksa.

Darwin’s food scene comes alive in the dry season. From April to October, the city’s markets – up to seven a week, including the popular Sunset Market at Mindil Beach – are bursting with tropical produce and Asian eats. It’s also when the food trucks begin to reappear along the Nightcliff foreshore.

Set against a backdrop of mango sunsets, this new breed of pop-up offers alfresco dining at its best.

Tasty, inexpensive and relaxed, here families and friends dine at communal tables on the grassy expanse and kids can play and roam free.

Long-time favourite Cucina Sotto le Stelle (literally, ‘kitchen under the stars’) serves pasta and crispy woodfired pizzas made to order from its carpark home. Look out for the red and white gingham tablecloths on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Across the bay at Nightcliff Jetty, Needle in a Haystack is getting lots of buzz for organic, ethically sourced produce and native flavours. From Wednesday

against a backdrop of mango sunsets, this new breed of pop-up offers alfresco dining at its best to Friday, you can try restaurantquality dishes like slow-braised lamb with native pepper ($21) or jerk chicken with wattleseed and charcoal cornbread ($20).

Bush tucker “This is Darwin’s first Indigenous pop-up restaurant,” says chef and restaurateur Zach Green of Elijah’s Kitchen, which he opened in April.

Located in Darwin’s Tamarind Park on Thursdays, Saturdays

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, laneway graffiti, eat alfresco at Cucina Sotto le Stelle. INSET: Eat organic at Needle in a Haystack.

Explore I DARWIN

Savour organic flavours

and Sundays, and Fannie Bay on Fridays, the pop-up celebrates Indigenous food, culture and stories – with a seasonal menu that features native ingredients.

Zach is a Gunditjmara and Palawa man who learnt to cook in Melbourne restaurants. “Elijah’s Kitchen is not about me as a chef, it’s about our people and culture,” he explains.

“It’s alfresco dining with table service and 100 per cent Indigenous employment – I have two other Indigenous chefs [working] with me, and my nieces and nephews wait tables and tell the story of our food,” he says.

Expect fine-dining style dishes without the price tag, like stickysweet local prawns with native lemon aspen butter ($17.50), crocodile laksa ($22.50) or spice-rubbed kangaroo with a Geraldton wax and grape jus ($24).

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, NEEDLE IN A HAYSTACK, BELINDA LUKSIC, CUCINA SOTTO LE STELLE

Hipster nights Darwin’s night scene has blossomed in recent years, says Alex James of Good Thanks, the funky burger bar he opened with his brother Eddie in Knuckey Street last October. “Mitchell Street is where everyone used to go – and it serves its purpose – it’s a beast unto itself.

But around here, it’s more like Melbourne,” he says.

At Good Thanks, you can order a negroni and indulge in classic American-style burgers like the ‘good beef’ with pickles and cheese or the retro ‘flaky bird’ – a cornflake-crusted chicken burger with pineapple and avocado.

Good Thanks sits in the graffitisplashed T-junction of Knuckey Street and Austin Lane, a hub of small restaurants and bars that includes the tapas delights of Moorish Cafe and dining hotspot PM Eat and Drink.

67

Explore I DARWIN

Prop yourself here CLOCKWISE: Newly opened Frankie’s Pizza, smash a brekkie bowl at Laneway Specialty House, Trader Bar proffers classic cocktails.

68

Darwin’s coffee obsession is growing, with single origin, cold-drip brews and excellent espresso Full of beans Darwin’s coffee obsession is growing, with single origin, colddrip brews and excellent espresso the norm. At Laneway Specialty House, a trendy fern-hung café in

Parap, the coffee is Campos and the seasonal menu is filled with tasty brekkie bowls, eggs and burgers.

Back in the city, arcade-favourite Alley Cats Patisserie is the go-to for good coffee, mouth-watering

PHOTOGRAPHY DARWIN STYLE, TRADER BAR, LANEWAY SPECIALTY HOUSE

Across the road is Frankie’s Pizza Joint – PM’s newest venture – an industrial-chic Italian eatery with Campari-driven cocktails, pizza and weekend DJs spinning tunes until late. Get ready to dance under the disco mirror ball.

Past ‘the mullet’ graffiti on Austin Lane is the new SpeakEasy bar at Little Miss Korea, a Korean barbecue house in the former Woolworths’ supermarket.

The dimly lit bar is the place for top-notch cocktails, craft beer and dumplings.

Gin fans will feel right at home at the Trader Bar. The hipster den, a short walk from the city, has artisan cocktails and a long list of botanical gins – try the Corpse Reviver with Australian Green Ant Gin. On Saturdays a DJ spins disco and deep house from behind a deck of fruit-filled crates, no less, and the bar is pumping. The Trader Bar changes gear come morning, serving recovery-fuelled pastries and coffee from 8am.

A FESTIVAL OF

AWAITS YOU

Discover ancient and modern Australian culture in one exciting tropical destination.

Enjoy 18 nights of world-class Australian art, theatre, music, cabaret, food and wine in Darwin.

Immerse yourself in the spirit and energy of Northern Australia.

Visit darwinfestival.org.au to book your tickets today.

#DFEST18

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Friday sunsets are served with a global parade of street eats

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The breakfast spread at Alley Cats Patisserie, One Mile Brewery, Café De la Plage.

Ale tales For a brew of a different kind, the taproom at One Mile Brewery in Winnellie is the place to taste-test the Top End’s craft beer. There are three main beers – a 4:21 Kolsch, RDO Bright Ale and Otto’s Red Ale – as well as a Pink Lady cider and seasonal releases.

Otto’s Red Ale is one of 46 beers and ciders on tap at the Precinct Tavern. This craft beer pub on the Darwin Waterfront has tasting paddles and a lush new beer garden with retro caravan bar.

The Precinct is a stone’s throw from the Wave and Recreation Lagoons and the Big Buoy Water Park, and walking distance to any number of great restaurants and bars. Try the tacos and 300-plus tequila list at Hot Tamale or the woodfired deliciousness of Wharf One Food & Wine.

Belinda Luksic travelled to Darwin as a guest of Tourism NT and the Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront tfehotels.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Darwin from most major cities.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY BELINDA LUKSIC, ALLEY CATS PATISSERIE, CAFE DE LA PLAGE

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pastries and brunch, and amazing organic sourdough. Leave room for the ‘weekly extreme’ shake: a monster mash-up of milkshake, ice-cream, lollies and cake.

The Pilates set hunker down at Sweet Brew & Co, a hidden foodie oasis on a lacklustre stretch of the Stuart Highway. The menu is as inviting as the gin iced tea and 12-hour cold-drip brew: think buttery pies, handmade pasta and burgers. The Presley Burger, a double cheeseburger in a cronut bun, is sure to become an Instagram sensation.

Café De la Plage can boast Darwin’s best, chilled beach vibes – the alfresco café at Darwin Surf Life Saving Club has coastal views from a grassy expanse. Grab a beanbag and feast on roasted veggies or watermelon and strawberry salad to a soundtrack of crashing waves and salty sea breezes. Friday sunsets are served with a global parade of street eats – Iranian, French, Spanish, Thai, Japanese, Greek and many others. On Sundays, there’s live music from 4pm, and cheese and charcuterie plates from 5pm.

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IN CROC TERRITORY WORDS JENNIFER PINKERTON

THE NORTHERN TERRITORY PROUDLY EMBRACES THE CROCODILE AS ITS SPIRIT ANIMAL. CHOOSE FROM NUMEROUS WAYS TO ENCOUNTER THIS ANCIENT CREATURE IN THE TOP END

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D PHOTOGRAPHY JENNIFER PINKERTON, TERRITORY WILDLIFE PARK, KRISTI O’BRIEN / TOURISM AUSTRALIA

ominator, Brutus, Chopper, Burt, Michael Jackson and Sweetheart – this is no assembly of twisted gangster monikers, but rather a round-up of the NT’s most notorious crocs. The list includes a six-metrelong ‘jumping croc’, a partial albino (we’ll let

Salties slinking into view in the NT. BELOW: See crocs from a comfortable distance at Territtory WIldlife Park.

OPPOSITE: Jumping for lunch on the Adelaide River.

you guess which one), a taxidermy specimen, a Crocodile Dundee film star, and oddly enough, a ‘psychic croc’ who successfully predicted the last State of Origin and federal election result.

Equal parts beloved, celebrated and feared, crocs are big beer garden conversation in the

they’ve stalked Top End waterways for around 200-million years

Territory. And for good reason. These reptiles have the numbers and the power. Descendants of the dinosaur age, they’ve stalked Top End waterways for around 200-million years – and their population is hardly dwindling.

Since becoming an NT protected species in 1971, wild saltwater croc numbers have ballooned from 3000 to 100,000.

“They’re apex predators.

They sit at the very top of the food chain, so there are few threats to their existence,” says crocodile expert James Robinson from Kakadu Tourism.

“Plus, their bite force is equivalent to that of a moving truck.”

A common misconception, however, is that all crocs are dangerous. In fact, only saltwater crocs (or ‘salties’) attack bigger animals. Unless seriously aggravated, the Top End’s

other croc family – the smaller and narrower freshwater crocs (or ‘freshies’) – happily stick to smaller feasts like fish, birds, snakes and frogs.

“The word ‘saltie’ is quite misleading, really,” says James. “Salties actually prefer freshwater, but they’ve got special glands that allow them to process salt if they find themselves in the ocean.”

It may seem bizarre, but this does happen. ‘Surfing crocs’ – wave-riding reptiles – sometimes visit Darwin’s northern beaches over wet season (December to March) when storms ruffle the sea.

Yet, for the most part, crocs frequent rivers, creeks, estuaries and billabongs, and this is precisely where travellers are likely to encounter them, too. The best time to do so is during the cooler months of the dry season (May to October)

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Watch crocs in their natural habitat on a Yellow Waters Billabong Cruise.

INSET: Toothsome encounters.

advises Dr Adam Britton, a crocodile aficionado from Charles Darwin University. Adam describes crocs as highly intelligent and “perfect predators”, owing to several natural attributes: their ability to sense the slightest movement in the water, to slow their heartbeats to two or three beats per minute to preserve energy, and even to switch the direction of their blood flow so as to send oxygen to body parts most in need, as during deep dives.

“The most ethical way to see crocodiles is undoubtedly in the wild, taking a boat tour into crocodile habitat to look for these magnificent reptiles in their homes,” says Adam. “It’s not hard to find a crocodile if you know where to look.”

Cruise control The Adelaide River, 70km from Darwin, boasts the highest concentration of saltwater crocs in the world – around 15 crocs per kilometre.

Take a riveting one-hour ‘jumping croc’ cruise with guides who’ll feed the reptiles buffalo meat from hooks. This triggers natural jumping behaviour, whereby crocs use their tails to thrust upwards like a rocket.

Keep an eye out for Brutus and Dominator: they’re the star attractions at Adelaide River Cruises, run by two knowledgeable brothers.

Kakadu Calling For a more serene and natural experience, Kakadu National Park offers two-hour Yellow Waters Billabong cruises that enable peeks at

patrolling crocs. Learn about crocs’ significance to local Indigenous culture by taking a tour with an Aboriginal guide at sunrise or sunset – at this time, birdlife flocks to the water and the sky marbles with colour.

Park Life Unless you’re game to try the ‘cage of death’ at Crocosaurus Cove in Darwin, where visitors swim in a cage alongside Chopper and friends (this aquarium ethically houses problem crocs relocated from the wild), journey to the conservation-focused Territory Wildlife Park, 55km from Darwin.

Inside a walk-through aquarium, meet 3.4-metre saltie Graham, before heading outside to spot freshies in the billabong.

crocs use their tails to thrust upwards like a rocket

Smart Swimming “The best advice is not to go swimming in the NT unless the area is specifically marked as being safe,” says Adam Britton. “And never approach or interfere with a crocodile. It might appear to be sitting there doing nothing, but it’s capable of exploding into action in the blink of an eye.”

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRITORY WILDLIFE PARK, JENNIFER PINKERTON

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THE

SNOW REPORT

The Southern Hemisphere’s ski season is in full swing. Ready, set, snow WORDS ROBERT UPE

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PHOTOGRAPHY PERISHER

Shredding the slopes

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W

ith nearly 40 snowfields spread across Australia and New Zealand – from basic club-like operations to fully-fledged resorts with day spas, good food and lively après-ski – choosing a ski destination this season is no easy feat. In our winter preview, we take a look at 12 of the biggest and best.

AUSTRALIA VICTORIA

It’s child’s play

FALLS CREEK

NEW & NOTEWORTHY A $9 million high-speed quaddetachable chairlift has replaced the Eagle triple chair.

EATING & DRINKING The Frying Pan Inn and Cloud 9 have received renovated interiors and rejuvenated new menus (including woodfired pizzas); Dicky Knees has transformed into a taqueria (serving Mexican fare); and Astra Lodge continues to offer fine alpine dining (and accommodation).

STAY For cosy mid-range accommodation with an open fire try Nelse Alpine Lodge; QT has groovy hotel digs with verandah spas.

OH, SO GOOD Feel like a rock star and take a scenic ride high over the Victorian Alps with Forest Air Helicopters.

MOUNT BULLER Mount Buller, about three hours drive from Melbourne, is one of Australia’s most popular resorts. There’s terrain for all comers, and a vibrant village.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY Buller Ski Lifts has unveiled its SnowSat system – the first in Australia. SnowSat links state-of-the-art piste grooming machines to IT systems, making for immaculately smooth and infinitely skiable slopes.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER, MT BULLER, HOTHAM

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A beautiful village and plenty of beginner and intermediate terrain ensure that Falls Creek remains a family favourite.

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CLOCKWISE: Alpine scenes at Hotham, at play in Mt Buller, taking a breather at Buller’s Tirol Café, high-altitude dining at Astra Lodge, pint-sized skiers at Mt Buller.

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EATING & DRINKING

MOUNT HOTHAM

Breathtaker Hotel and Spa has introduced Spanish/ Moroccan sharing plates at its already popular Signature Restaurant; ski-in and ski-out for delicious lunches at Koflers Hutte (tip: try the apricot mogul cake) and Tirol Café.

Mount Hotham is renowned for its tougher runs. Nearby Dinner Plain, a town of timber houses and chalets, provides an attractive alternative to staying right in the main ski village and is popular with families.

STAY The eight-person timber chalet Burnt Hut is like something from a glossy home magazine; Austrianstyle Pension Grimus has apartments in a great position; and economical accommodation, with homecooked meals, is available at Coonamar Ski Club.

OH, SO GOOD Mount Buller’s new pond skim event promises to make a big splash on 22 September as contestants dress up and ski/ snowboard across the water for cash and glory.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY Miss Mary’s restaurant has opened at Hotham Central, offering cocktails and Asian-fusion cuisine.

EATING & DRINKING Zirky’s is a quality stalwart of Hotham’s dining scene; The Bird Café has no-frills but good food, craft beer and live music during après-ski hours; Dinner Plain’s Blizzard Brewery is the highest brewhouse in Australia and has gathered a strong following since opening a few seasons ago.

STAY The three-storey Cobungra Chalet sleeps 12 and has ski-in/ski-out access, as well as

ski-in and skiout for delicious lunches

a private sauna; the Snowbird Inn, home of the Bird Café, has affordable rooms.

OH, SO GOOD Relax at Dinner Plain’s Japanese-inspired Onsen Retreat + Spa.

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NSW THREDBO Thredbo won the title of best Australian ski resort at the 2017 World Ski Awards and it’s no wonder, given its all-round terrain and excellent village facilities.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY Snowmaking has been added to the Cruiser Terrain Park, while summer works in the Central Spur area have improved traffic flow between the two main resort areas.

EATING & DRINKING

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Hitting fresh powder on Thredbo, Kareela Hutte’s famous burger, learning the ropes at Thredbo, making tracks at Perisher.

Try the Franco-Italian fare at Australia’s highest restaurant, the casual Eagles Nest; Kareela Hutte for its famous Kareela De Burger and the great views; and the Thredbo Burger Bar for its menu of 15 mouth-watering burgers.

STAY The 65-room Thredbo Alpine Hotel is a resort icon and centrally located; the five-star Rockpool Lodge offers two bedrooms plus a loft and lounge with a big fireplace.

OH, SO GOOD The resort has a packed après-ski program this year, including free outdoor music.

PERISHER Perisher is an amalgamation of four resorts: Perisher Valley, Guthega, Blue Cow and Smiggin Holes. It has more than 100 groomed runs and 1245 hectares of terrain.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY The resort has announced a new $4.2 million quad chairlift to replace the Leichhardt T-bar next year. This season, Perisher has spent $400,000 on snowmaking improvements and added a new snow-grooming machine to its fleet.

EATING & DRINKING Snow Gums restaurant at the Perisher Valley Hotel has an open fire and serves local produce; the High Ground Coffee Bar opened last year and already has a reputation for good coffee and food.

PHOTOGRAPHY THREDBO, KAREELA BURGER AND HUT, PERISHER

STAY The Perisher Valley Hotel is in the heart of the resort and offers boutique luxury; The Station is an affordable off-mountain option.

OH, SO GOOD Set the alarm for the resort’s First Tracks program from 29 July to 9 September.

Training future pros

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What a view!

2018 wish list

MOUNT HUTT

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This snowfield was voted NZ’s best ski resort for the third year in a row at the 2017 World Ski Awards. It’s an easy 90-minute drive from Christchurch, with accommodation in the small town of Methven.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY There have been renovations to the Sky High Café as well as road improvements.

EATING & DRINKING Methven’s iconic Blue Pub is in the centre of town, serving up hotel fare, live music and a good vibe; there’s also the Brown Pub, a 2016 finalist in the national Hospitality Awards. Down the

road, Ski Time is another popular venue, with an open fire and great local dishes such as beetroot marinated salmon.

STAY The Blue Pub and The Brown Pub have affordable rooms; Ski Time also has accommodation, ranging from no-frills lodge rooms to apartments. All three are members of the Kids4Free initiative in Methven, allowing kids aged 10 and under to stay at no cost.

OH, SO GOOD Experts should head to the Virgin Mile for black chutes, ending in the Rakaia Saddle run. Strike it on a powder day and you’ll hardly notice the magnificent views over the Canterbury Plains to the Pacific Ocean.

THE REMARKABLES & CORONET PEAK These two South Island ski fields, suitable for all levels, are the best bet for those based in Queenstown – a lakeside town with abundant places to eat, drink, shop and stay, as well as a raft of adventure activities such as bungy jumping.

Shuttles run from town to snow – it’s 20 minutes to Coronet Peak and 40 minutes to The Remarkables.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY Big improvements have been made at both mountains, with more beginner terrain (70 per cent at The Remarkables), reconfigured novice slopes and new conveyor (carpet) lifts.

EATING & DRINKING Take in panoramic views with lunch at Heidi’s Hut on Coronet Peak; wrap your mitts around a Fergburger in Queenstown, renowned as one of the world’s best burgers; try the newish Yonder Café, fast becoming ‘the’ place in Queenstown.

Book a luxury home such as Beacon Point (pictured) with Release Wanaka. TOP: The Remarkables lives up to its name.

STAY Queenstown has a new QT Hotel; Eichardt’s Private Hotel lays claims to the best boutique property in town; and there are

lots of choices for backpackers, including Bumbles Backpackers.

OH, SO GOOD Queenstown’s adrenaline activities include bungy jumping, white-water rafting (yes, even in winter), jet boating and mountain biking.

CARDRONA & TREBLE CONE These two snowfields are close to Wanaka, another pretty lakeside town. Cardrona is an intermediate skiers’ delight.

Treble Cone, celebrating its 50th anniversary this winter, has some of NZ’s most challenging lift-accessible terrain.

PHOTOGRAPHY REMARKABLES, BEACON POINT

NEW ZEALAND SOUTH ISLAND

1. TAKE A SELFIE AT THE TOP OF AUSTRALIA on a guided backcountry tour from Thredbo to Mount Kosciuszko. The trip is one of several new backcountry experiences offered by Thredbo Snow Sports at the resort this winter. thredbo.com.au 2. GO ON A BIG ADVENTURE with a day of heli-skiing in the NZ Alps. heliskinz.com 3. STAY IN ABSOLUTE LUXURY at Matakauri Lodge in NZ, next to Lake Wakatipu near Queenstown. matakaurilodge.com 4. SKI OR SNOWBOARD OUT OF BOUNDS near Falls Creek on a snowmobile tour with former Australian ski racer Steven Lee. fallscreek.com.au 5. GO DOG SLEDDING at Mount Buller. Enjoy the ride as a passenger, or mush your own team of Siberian huskies. sleddogtours.com.au

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Après appetites

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

EATING & DRINKING

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The food trucks at Wanaka’s Brownston Street provide quick options from burritos to dumplings; there are two new brewhouses, the Ground Up Cellar Door, and Rhyme and Reason on Gordon Road; Kika’s Italian menu is one not to miss.

STAY The Wanaka Hotel is central and affordable; Release Wanaka has a range of luxury homes.

OH, SO GOOD

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Refuel at Kika in Wanaka, snow days at Mt Baw Baw, ski an active volcano on Mount Ruapehu.

Haus Corona Bar opened last season and is a perfect spot to chill out with drinks and tacos after skiing; be sure to try a Snowflake Burger at the Snowflake Café.

STAY

NORTH ISLAND

The three-star Park Hotel sits in the Tongariro National Park with easy access to both ski fields; the Powderhorn Chateau is a boutique, classic timber chalet in Ohakune.

WHAKAPAPA & TUROA

OH, SO GOOD

Wanaka’s quirky Cinema Paradiso has seating in a Morris Minor car and on old sofas.

These sister resorts are on opposite flanks of Mount Ruapehu, an active volcano.

Whakapapa is NZ’s largest ski area and Tūroa is its highest, with extensive terrain parks.

Much of the accommodation is in the town of Ohakune.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY Whakapapa’s Far West T-bar has had a NZ $1.3 million upgrade.

EATING & DRINKING Knoll Ridge Café, NZ’s highest, has stunning views; the Schuss

Relax in a geothermal hot pool.

SMALL AND MIGHTY

Across the border, in NSW, Selwyn has enhanced its snowmaking capability by adding four snow guns, Outside the orbit of the major supplementing the 32 already snow resorts, many of the in action. All up, the resort’s smaller ski fields in Australia snowmaking system covers and NZ also have some 80 per cent of its terrain. exciting offerings this year.

As in previous years, the Victoria’s Mount Baw resort is again offering free Baw now ‘guarantees’ midweek skiing for kids snow, thanks to a new snow (advance booking required). factory on the mountain Thirteen of NZ’s small in partnership with resorts – including Porters, TechnoAlpin.

Craigieburn and Broken The factory has the ability River – have rafted together to produce 110 cubic metres to provide attractively priced of snow daily. seven and 10-day Chill “Being one of the few Passes. They’re perfect if alpine resorts in Australia you’re doing a snow-themed with a snow factory, we’re road trip in the Southern Alps. convinced this will be our best Adventurous types may season yet,” says the resort’s want to tackle the Craigieburn general manager John Fascio. Haute Route, a guided Meanwhile, keep an eye four-day ski tour that out for Mount Baw Baw’s traverses several peaks and environmental ambassadors, ski areas from Craigieburn two adopted dingoes. The to Mount Olympus, with cute pups are at the resort evenings in rustic ski lodges. all year, greeting visitors and There are four trips scheduled going on guided walks. this season, in August.

PHOTOGRAPHYMTRUAPEHU.COM, MT BAW BAW

Treble Cone has introduced a free return bus service from Wanaka for those who book lift passes, lessons or other packages. Group lessons have been capped at five people, and a 90-minute snowshoe experience has started. Cardrona is spending NZ $20 million on improvements over several years.

Last year it was a new lift and snowmaking, this year there are café refurbishments and more snowmaking. There’s talk of another lift in 2019 for advanced skiers and boarders.

SKI + SOAK + S TARS = TEKAPO

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QUEENSLAND Brisbane Gold Coast

The Gold Coast 86

grown-up From sophisticated eateries to galleries in former factories, the Gold Coast is forging a new identity WORDS CRAIG TANSLEY

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PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, JARRAD BELL, HELLENIKA

I

t’s not yet 6pm on a balmy Monday evening, not even close to holiday season, and still I can’t get a table.

“Twenty minutes, sir,” the hostess with a Canadian – or is it American? – accent apologises. I kill time upstairs at a lively openair bar, which overlooks the mountains of a green hinterland, thumbing through a drinks menu with 50 cocktails in it.

My table’s ready before I’ve decided. I’m led down a staircase that looks across a sea of pretty people, all dining under a pink sky in a venue that’s five-restaurants-in-one.

At The Collective Palm Beach, in what used to be the town’s post office, you can now choose from Japanese, Modern Australian, American, Mexican and Italian food.

“We opened on Boxing Day 2016 and had 200 people waiting outside,” says co-owner Jeremy Davidson. “When I moved here 12 years ago, people mostly came [to the Coast] to party or to retire, but that’s all changed.”

Welcome, ladies and

CLOCKWISE: Hellenika, cocktails at Hellenika, grazing at The Collective Palm Beach, toasting the new Goldie at The Collective, Burleigh Heads Beach.

Burleigh Heads is the epicentre of this new city of style gents, to the new Gold Coast. Tonight I'm watching it ringside from The Collective Palm Beach, but gamechanging restaurants like this have been opening across the Gold Coast in the past two years. In Palm Beach alone, 10 new restaurants and bars have opened in that time.

Brave new world The Gold Coast has always been known for its beaches and theme parks, but these days there’s a sophistication that was never here before.

“I’ve seen the whole place transform before my eyes and I’ve been here since I was nine,” says Simon Gloftis.

Arguably the region’s

best-known restaurateur, Simon owns Greek restaurant Hellenika in another culinary hotspot – Nobby Beach. “I really couldn’t think of a place that’s progressed so much in such a limited time as the Gold Coast. We all had to grow together.”

A few minutes’ drive down the Gold Coast Highway from Nobby Beach, Burleigh Heads is the epicentre of this new city of style. Here, secret laneways lead to hip new wine bars, restaurants and cafés. James Street is Burleigh Heads’ bustling main thoroughfare, where your cultural and culinary options begin.

But to find the gold it’s best to look up dead-end

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streets and down dimly lit lanes. Justin Lane Establishment started the revolution – it’s the place to be any night of the week. Here, patrons drink cocktails in an open-air rooftop bar that looks across the world-renowned waves of Burleigh Point. But the vibe is understated; people dress down, just like they do in Melbourne.

Owner Adam Haralampou – who started Justin Lane Establishment seven years ago in a decrepit arcade – always believed the Gold Coast could change from a region dominated by surfclub cuisine to a city of culinary innovation.

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Awaiting outside your room is a swimming pool, children’s splash zone and waterpark, kids club, daily activities program and more to keep the younger ones entertained as well as a selection of dining and entertainment options for the adults which offers all guests a place to relax and unwind without ever having to leave.

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ABOVE: Justin Lane's perennially popular rooftop. PICTURED: Rick Shores boasts killer views.

“Melbourne and Sydney have had many years of food culture instilled in them and the Gold Coast’s still relatively young,” Adam says. “I think [there are] restaurants here that are as good – if not better – than some well-known Sydney and Melbourne restaurants. We’re well on our way to being a stand-out food and drink destination.”

PHOTOGRAPHY JUSTIN LANE, RICK SHORES

Sea change Two hundred metres or so east, Rick Shores epitomises the ‘new’ Gold Coast, with its airy colonial fitout, set just a few metres from the waves. But where the coast’s most awarded eateries were once about glitzy excess (patrons arriving by limousine and dressed to the nines in sports jackets and miniskirts), now even the Gold Coast’s most lauded restaurant prefers to stay under the radar.

Waiters wear shorts and trainers, the floor is concrete (the waves do wash in here during exceptionally high tides and big seas) and toilets are accessed via a key code. Rick Shores’ owners are school buddies from Brisbane who visited Burleigh Heads as kids, and despite the accolades (Rick Shores recently topped delicious magazine’s ‘Queensland's 100 Most Delicious Restaurants’ list), not much has changed.

“At the end of the day we’re right on the beach so we can't take ourselves too seriously,” co-owner Nick Woodward says.

“The more relaxed style of dining is where the Gold Coast is at now, and where it’ll continue heading in the future. Even just in the time we’ve been operating I’ve been seeing changes, particularly here at the southern end of

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The more relaxed style of dining is where the Gold Coast is at now

per cent of locals living on the Gold Coast own their own businesses, and many of them are leading Australian innovation in everything from fashion design and ceramics to organic farming.

Innovation stations the coast from Mermaid Beach down. Small bars, pop-up restaurants and niche venues are opening all the time. It’s all changing.”

But while Nobby Beach, Burleigh Heads and Palm Beach have become the social and foodie hangouts of the new Gold Coast, they’re not where the cultural overhaul ends. Twenty

Dust Temple, in a former clothing factory, is a gallery space with 12 exhibitions a year featuring local and internationally renowned artists. Two-and-a-half years ago when it opened, it was surrounded by manufacturers and warehouses; now it’s helped trigger a cultural explosion in Currumbin Waters’ industrial estate,

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with an influx of cafés, co-working spaces and design workshops turning the area into the unlikeliest of arts precincts.

Just beyond those sipping coffee at its rustic-chic café, you’ll find $5000 artworks hung on rusted, corrugated iron walls. “For so long it’s been all about surf culture on the Gold Coast,” says co-owner John Wilson.

“But that’s changing; we want to make the Gold Coast a destination for art and culture.”

Art hub Dust Temple.

BELOW: Balter Brewing is found in a warehouse on an industrial estate.

PHOTOGRAPHY TRENT MITCHELL, DUST TEMPLE

Something's brewing Just two streets away, one of Australia’s top breweries operates out of an old radiator factory, hidden among boatbuilding yards and steel fabrication workshops. There’s a food truck inside, beside a DJ desk and a bar attracting the Coast’s most fashionable locals.

The brainchild of four local, world-champion surfers and their friends, Balter is part of the push towards making the Gold Coast the brewing capital of Australia. These days there’s a brewery in most of the bigger suburbs, with Burleigh Brewing Company and Black Hops Brewing lauded as two of the best small brewers in Australia.

“Things have changed a lot since we were little surf rats running around ‘Cooly’ [Coolangatta],” says Balter co-owner – and three-time world champion Mick Fanning.

“Good coffee and breakfast culture started changing here about eight years ago and there’s been a steady progression ever since. Balter’s just another part of that.”

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To market, to market It’s these ‘in-between’ areas that say the most about the new Gold Coast. Outside the more obvious hotspots, there’s an underground artistic community that’s becoming more vocal each year, particularly in the backstreets where no-one used to stop. And a lot of that is thanks to one venue.

You’ll find the Miami Marketta among mechanic’s workshops a few streets back from the Gold Coast Highway in Miami. The first time I ventured here I thought I’d come to the wrong

there’s an underground artistic community that’s becoming more vocal each year

place – until I heard the music. But inside an enormous old warehouse, there’s an open-air food market, boho fashion designers and artist studios, plus pop-up bars and live sets from international bands.

“The Marketta was unprecedented here at the time, and we became the first creative precinct zone on the Gold

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Fancy market finds

The Village Markets. INSET: Line up for live music, food stalls and handcrafted wares at NightQuarter.

PHOTOGRAPHY MEL CARRERO, NIGHTQUARTER

93 Coast,” says co-founder Emma Miliken.

“To me it made sense because art warehouse parties were the norm in Melbourne, but no-one was doing it on the Gold Coast. I’m from Victoria, so I spent time around the streets of Fitzroy and Carlton [in Melbourne’s inner north] fascinated with global food and street art. We’re only one venue, but in a year alone we’ve held more than 150 street food events.”

Then there’s NightQuarter, another specialty food, design and craft weekend night market with more than 120 vendors. In an even more unfashionable part of town, off the Pacific Motorway at Helensvale, it’s also the coast’s best

live music venue.

There’s also the Green Marquee Twilight Markets, held on the second Saturday of each month at the Eco Village in Currumbin Valley, where vendors tout ecofriendly art, fashion and food as local musicians play under the stars.

And at The Village Markets – held on the grounds of Burleigh Heads State School – emerging designers sell everything from handcrafted wooden skateboards to the next new fashion must-have.

It’s where the likes of international fashion powerhouse sass & bide got their start.

A city on the up Let’s be clear. The Gold Coast is still a work in

I think people were ready for this on the Gold Coast progress. It’s no Portland, Oregon, just yet. But with each passing month a new art studio opens, another design market starts, and a new café emerges doing things a little differently to the rest.

“I think people were ready for this on the Gold Coast,” Dust Temple’s

John Wilson says. “This is all born of a need, but there’s still a lot of educating to go.”

Rick Shores’ Nick Woodward sees a new kind of city emerging.

“With such a strong café and restaurant culture, these days the Gold Coast is becoming more like Melbourne,” he says.

“But we have something better going – we’ve got that with constant sunshine and the world’s best beaches.”

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to the Gold Coast from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

NEW ZEALAND I ROTORUA

FEEL THE HEAT

This New Zealand geothermal hotspot is ready to rumble come winter

WORDS ALICE GALLETLY

Waikite Valley Thermal Pools is the single largest source of 100 per cent pure boiling water in New Zealand.

PHOTOGRAPHY WAIKITE THERMAL POOLS

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A

s nicknames go, ‘rotten egg town’ isn’t a particularly flattering one. But that’s what European settlers in the neighbouring village of Ōhinemutu used to call Rotorua back in the day, and if you’ve ever been, you’ll know why.

Lying in the heart of New Zealand’s North Island, Rotorua is part of the Taupō Volcanic Zone, a hotbed of geothermal activity that stretches from Whakaari (White Island) in the Bay of Plenty down to Tongariro National Park. These days, New Zealand’s

geothermal capital has a slightly snazzier moniker (‘Sulphur City’), but that distinct eggy odour still hangs in the breeze.

The culprit is hydrogen sulphide seeping from the ground, and it is part and parcel of the natural features that bring more than a million tourists to the region each year: belching mud pools, spurting geysers, soothing hot springs and picturesque crater lakes.

With so much heat bubbling up from below, Rotorua is one of the best spots in New Zealand to visit for a warming winter getaway. And with so many exotic geothermal

attractions to distract you, what’s the odd whiff of rotten egg here and there?

Take the waters Local Māori have harnessed Rotorua’s mineral-rich water and mud for bathing and healing purposes for centuries. But it wasn’t until tourists started arriving in the 1870s to gaze at the nearby Pink and White Terraces (now buried, thanks to the eruption of Mount Tarawera in 1886) that word of Rotorua’s curative thermal springs started to spread. In 1908, a grand Tudor-style

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Full steam ahead

CLOCKWISE: Descend into otherworldly Hells Gate, soak away your troubles at Polynesian Spa, get messy in Hells Gate’s mud bath.

followed by a steaming sulphur spa.

For a sunset soak, the Polynesian Spa on the edge of Lake Rotorua is hard to beat. There are numerous pools of varying sizes and temperatures to choose from, the most glamorous of which are framed by natural rocks and native shrubbery and look out over the lake. There’s also a rather luxurious spa menu, which includes decadent treatments such as manuka honey facials, mud wraps and aromatherapy massages.

Lying halfway between Rotorua and Taupō, Waikite Valley Thermal Pools is another gorgeous spot to warm your bones.

The complex has six outdoor pools, several of which overlook a steamy forested valley and the boiling Otamakokore Stream. Once you’ve turned decidedly prunelike, take a short stroll along the Eco-Trail to check out Te Manaroa Spring, New Zealand’s largest single source of boiling water.

Go natural Formed by hot thermal

springs and cold freshwater streams colliding, Rotorua is blessed with numerous natural hot pools. Some are a bit of a mission to reach, but what better reward for a trek through the bush than a long, hot soak with no admission fee?

The most popular natural hot pool in the area is Kerosene Creek, which lies about 25km south of the city (turn off State Highway 5 and drive 2km down the bumpy Old Waiotapu Road to reach it). Here, a hot stream

PHOTOGRAPHY POLYNESIAN SPA, HELLS GATE

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bathhouse opened in Government Gardens, and this cemented the town’s reputation as New Zealand’s first health spa destination.

The idea of ‘taking the waters’ may not be as fashionable as it was a century ago, but visitors still flock to Rotorua to warm up, be pampered and ease adventure-worn bodies at the numerous mineral pools and spas dotted across the region.

Want to slather yourself in hot volcanic mud or be treated to a traditional mirimiri (Māori massage)? A visit to Hells Gate is a must.

The Māori-owned 50-acre geothermal reserve is home to boiling hot pools, an erupting mud volcano and the largest hot waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere. After taking a self-guided tour of the park, you can opt to get down and dirty in an outdoor mud bath (leave your white togs at home)

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Explore I ROTORUA

Spa seekers

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flows through bush and cascades down a short waterfall into a steaming, sun-dappled pool. It used to be a secret local spot for skinny dipping, but these days there’s a tin shed for getting your swimsuit on.

It’s best to go early in the day if you want to avoid the crowds.

If it’s absolute peace and tranquillity you’re after, you’re going to have to venture a bit further off the beaten track. Hidden in the bush near the shores of Lake Tarawera is Wairua Stream, where a large, clear hot pool makes for one of the country’s most Instagramable bush baths (if only there were any reception).

Nearby, you can create your own natural spa on the lake’s shore at Hot Water Beach — all it takes is a bit of manoeuvring of rocks to keep the hot water in. The easiest way to reach Wairua Stream and Hot Water Beach is

via boat tour with Totally Tarawera. Alternatively, it’s a five-hour hike around the lake from Te Wairoa car park along the bushlined Tarawera Trail.

Finally, if you’re headed to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, stop and take a dip at the nearby spring known as the Bridge or Hot ‘n’ Cold Creek. As the names suggest, this natural bath is formed by the hot Waiotapu Stream merging with a cool river under the Waiotapu Bridge. The pool is located on Waiotapu Loop Road – park anywhere near the bridge and you’ll spot it.

Unearthly delights The Pink and White Terraces may have been reclaimed by Mount Tarawera, but Rotorua still boasts more than its fair share of natural wonders.

Cartoon-coloured sulphur pools, steaming volcanic craters and powerful geysers are just a few of

Historic houses are set among steaming vents

the attractions found in the region’s alien-like geothermal reserves.

Make sure you leave plenty of time to explore Waimangu Volcanic Valley, a tranquil scenic reserve and wildlife refuge about 20 minutes’ drive south of Rotorua.

Formed by the Mount Tarawera eruption, the reserve boasts one of the world’s largest natural hot springs, Frying Pan Lake (swimming not advised, unless you fancy being poached), and its electricblue companion, Inferno Crater Lake. Waimangu is a lovely spot for a ramble, with numerous walking tracks weaving through bird-filled native bush.

PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN APSE, VAUGHAN BROOKFIELD, WAI-O-TAPU THERMAL WONDERLAND

CLOCKWISE: Hot Water Beach, Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland’s Champagne Pool, Kerosene Creek offers a natural retreat.

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Learn from the locals Settled by the Te Arawa people in the 14th century, the Rotorua region is home to nearly 4 per cent of New Zealand’s Māori population and a rich concentration of traditional culture.

There are ample ways visitors can connect with

Witness nature’s fury at Te Puia, in the Te Whakarewarewa Valley.

BELOW: Cultural performances are on offer at Te Puia.

Māoritanga (the Māori way of life), with some of the area’s top attractions combining natural geothermal features with immersive Māori experiences.

One such outfit is Te Puia, located in the Te Whakarewarewa Geothermal Valley, on the edge of town. The star of the show is Pōhutu (meaning ‘constant splashing’), the largest

active geyser in the Southern Hemisphere.

There are no tricks or timetables here; she blows naturally, up to 20 times per day, often hurtling hot water skyward to a height of 30 metres.

Te Puia is also home to New Zealand’s Māori Arts and Crafts Institute where you can watch master weavers and carvers at work, as well as a replica precolonial Māori village, kiwi enclosure, and a marae (meeting place) where cultural performances are held several times a day. At night, the popular three-hour Te Pō (night) experience includes a traditional hāngi feast and cultural performance, followed by a van tour through the illuminated thermal valley.

Just over the fence, Whakarewarewa the Living Maori Village has been home to the Tūhourangi/Ngāti Wāhiao people since the early

1800s. Historic houses are set among steaming vents and thermal pools, which villagers still use for cooking, bathing and heating.

Cultural performances, a lunchtime hāngi and overnight marae stays are all on offer, and tours of the village and surrounding geothermal area are run by descendants of the original Pink and White Terrace guides. One of the more authentic cultural experiences available, a visit to Whakarewarewa is a great way to experience Māori hospitality and warmth, and to share in their love of this unique landscape — rotten egg pong and all.

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PHOTOGRAPHY TE PUIA, FRASER CLEMENTS

Just down the road, Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland is, frankly, a bit of a show-off.

Meaning ‘sacred waters’ in Māori, the park packs several surreal features into a compact 22-acre reserve. Among them, the spectacular Champagne Pool – a fizzing, brightgreen hot spring with a garish orange rim – and a rather toxic-looking pond named Devil’s Bath. It’s also home to the Lady Knox Geyser, which puts on an impressive show (with a little help from detergent) daily at 10.15am.

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EXPLORE I HONG KONG

HONG KONG

HONG KONG

BIG-CITY ANTIDOTE

Hong Kong Island

Beyond its skyscrapers, Hong Kong offers restorative outdoor activities and experiences WORDS LUCY SIEBERT

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

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his is a city of some 7.4 million people. A place of towering residential buildings, corporate skyscrapers and vast, shiny shopping malls. At street level, it’s a frenetic, fun mass of activity – whether you’re jammed onto an escalator (Hong Kong is home to the world’s biggest network of moving walkways) or simply walking down a heaving street at lunchtime.

Yes, Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated cities in the world, with sky-high rents to match its high-rise architecture.

But it’s also home to many outdoor activities and experiences, which are easily within reach, very affordable and the perfect antidote to the urban sprawl.

Here are some ideas to get you out and about in Hong Kong.

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Leg it to the top

Try tai chi Dawn has just broken as I emerge into Hong Kong Park, a patch of nature in the heart of the bustling metropolis. This garden oasis is filled with tropical plants, squirrels and birdsong from the residents of the Edward Youde Aviary. I turn a corner and am faced with three people moving in what looks like a trance-like state. They simply continue their regular morning tai chi practice. Practising this ancient exercise derived from martial arts is common in Hong Kong, particularly during the early hours in the city’s parks. Watching the practitioners is one thing, but after breakfast I'm put through my paces by tai chi teachers Daisy Kan and Kenneth Leung. Despite it being spring, it’s hot and humid – and I’m sweating.

A lot. Tai chi might be all about low-impact movements (I learn the eight forms and then put them together in a sequence) and is suitable for all fitness levels, but I can feel my glutes burning and my arms wobbling. In comparison, the

CLOCKWISE: Welcoming the day with tai chi, scaling the Dragon’s Back, post-hike sustenance at Rainbow Seafood Restaurant.

Explore I HONG KONG

are we eating or hiking? Well, food comes first in Hong Kong

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, RAINBOW SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

morning tai chi practitioners, who must have been in their 70s, looked as though they hadn’t even broken a glow. The hour flies by – I feel refreshed and my mind is calm – and I’m prepared to once again face the Hong Kong throng.

Try it for yourself: Some hotels, such as The Murray, can arrange personal tai chi classes for guests.

Alternatively, book a class with the Chen Style Tai Chi Institute: taichielite.com/eng

Go for a hike Despite its famous urban forest of skyscrapers, Hong Kong offers plenty of hiking and walking options. The city’s ferry network makes getting to the outlying islands, and their many walking and hiking trails, quick and easy.

Lamma Island is a good choice if you’re keen on finishing a fairly easy 7km hike with lunch at a muchloved seaside eatery. Take the ferry from Central Pier to the main town of Yung Shue Wan. From the ferry terminal follow the trail and walk through the seaside villages and into the heart of the island. Along the way we stop to sample some hot and cold tofu pudding at the rustic Kin Hing Tofu Dessert. Descending into the village of Sok Kwu Wan, catching views of the sea along the way, we then stop for cold drinks and seafood delights at Rainbow Seafood Restaurant (are we eating or hiking?

Well, food comes first in Hong Kong) before catching the return ferry.

Another active option is Cheung Chau Island, just south of Lantau, which is good for walking or cycling

– you can hire bikes from the local shops. The well-maintained trails offer views over the sparkling sea and beaches, and you’ll also catch glimpses of a traditional cemetery and a local temple. The must-see attractions are the island’s caves where 19th-century pirate Cheung Po Tsai supposedly hid his stolen treasures. Kids and adults alike will love the thrill of catching a glimpse of a real-life pirate hangout.

For a more strenuous option, tackle the 8km Dragon’s Back, a part of the Hong Kong Trail, which winds across Hong Kong Island. This popular section offers beautiful coastal views.

Then there is the 100km MacLehose Trail in the New Territories, which takes more than a week. Stage 5, in Lion Rock Country Park, is 10km and suitable for the whole family.

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TOP TO BOTTOM: Traditional trades linger in Sham Shui Po, hipster meets history in this gentrifying neighbourhood, bean curd to go,

Urban ambles If you’re keen to stretch your legs within Hong Kong’s concrete jungle, there are plenty of walking options.

On Hong Kong Island, grab or download a copy of the Hong Kong Tourist Board’s booklet on selfguided walks in Old Town Central, which outlines the best places in this vibrant neighbourhood via five routes. Dive into art and culture, heritage, shopping, dining and plenty more. Another handy resource is the My Hong Kong Guide app, where you can get inspiration from other travellers and create your own walking itinerary.

For something totally different, head to the Kowloon side to Sham Shui Po, a former working class neighbourhood slowly gentrifying.

The Hong Kong Tourist Board released a self-guided walking booklet to the area last month.

Best known as home to wholesale fabric markets and shops, you

you can easily spend a few hours walking around here

can easily spend a few hours walking around along Cheung Sha Wan Road, discovering different materials and a plethora of accessories, as well as trendy coworking spaces, cafés and vintage shops. If old electronics or other second-hand finds are more up your alley, head to Apliu Street Flea Market. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, sample traditional flavours at the original home of dim sum franchise Tim Ho Wan or join an organised foodie walking tour.

Try it for yourself: Find the Hong Kong Tourist Board’s booklet and app online: discoverhongkong. com/common/ebook/OldTown-Central_booklet_EN.pdf, discoverhongkong.com/eng/ myhkguide.

Hong Kong Foodie Tasting Tours offers small-group walking tours of Sham Shui Po four days a week. hongkongfoodietours.com

Get outside in Sai Kung The laid-back town of Sai Kung, nestled in the eastern New Territories, is a great spot for a family day out. Wander along the promenade – on Sundays catch a

PHOTOGRAPHY HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD

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Try it for yourself: Islands and hiking spots are accessible via ferries, MTR, buses or taxis.

Journeys, times and prices vary: hongkong.net/transportation/ ferry and mtr.com.hk

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Explore I HONG KONG

Set sail

Try it for yourself: Get to Sai Kung via a combination of MTR and then a mini bus or cab ride. Take a cab from the Sai Kung bus/taxi rank to Lions Nature Education Centre or to Hoi Ha Wan.

See the skyline from sea level on a junk in Victoria Harbour.

LEFT: Refuel at Little Cove Espresso.

Relax under the stars Sure, you’re unlikely to actually spot any stars in Hong Kong – it’s more likely to be glittering advertising boards. But a harbour cruise or nocturnal ferry trip is a fantastic way to get outside and experience the city’s neon magnificence. Go one better with Aqua Luna’s Symphony of Lights cruise, which gives guest a front-row seat aboard a traditional junk (ancient Chinese sailing boat) to Hong Kong’s light, laser and music show. Set to music by the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, the 10-minute show can also be viewed from a number of harbourfront areas or rooftop bars – simply

download the show’s app and listen to the music through your phone.

Try it for yourself: Symphony of Lights takes place at 8pm every night. Book a traditional junk experience at aqualuna.com.hk Lucy Siebert was hosted by the Hong Kong Tourism Board.

Getting there Jetstar has great low fares to Hong Kong from across the network.

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PHOTOGRAPHY LITTLE COVE ESPRESSO, AQUA LUNA

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glimpse of immaculately groomed dogs (poodles with poofs in fluorescent pink and yellow are particularly spectacular) – or watch the fishing boats coming in with their hauls. Dine at a seafood restaurant or head to Aussieinspired café Little Cove Espresso for a caffeine boost.

Little-known outdoor gem, the Lions Nature Education Centre, is a 16ha facility with family-friendly outdoor spaces and five educational exhibition halls near the Sai Kung town centre. Wander through the bamboo grove, view tadpoles in the ponds or linger by the dragonfly pond. A highlight for kids is the Trace of Hong Kong Wild Animals Trail, where they can spot sculptures hiding under the trees and bushes.

Round off your visit with a snack at the café, which is run by hearingimpaired staff.

On a hot day you can also head from Sai Kung to Hoi Ha Wan, one of Hong Kong’s five marine parks, to cool off and try your hand at snorkelling. The area is home to some 60 types of hard coral and 120 species of coral fish.

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QUEENSLAND I SUNSHINE COAST

Sunshine Coast BRISBANE

Walking on sunshine The best way to see the spectacular Sunshine Coast is on foot WORDS LACHEAN HUMPHREYS

PHOTOGRAPHY REUBEN NUTT

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The Great Walk We’ve emerged from the rainforest at midday, after some four hours of walking. Packs dropped beside us, we’re reaching for water bottles and stretching our legs out in the mild autumn sun. Digging around in my pack, I pull out an avocado – it’s been safely tucked inside my camp cup and, despite a small gash, it’s ripe and whole. We’re gleeful; this piece of fruit has survived four days in the pack to make an appearance at our picnic lunch.

We’re on the second to last day of the Cooloola Great Walk, a five-day, 88km hike through the Cooloola Sandmass – one of the largest accumulations of wind-blown sand on the Queensland coast, formed more than 500,000 years ago. It’s home to rainforest, eucalyptus forest, dry coastal woodlands and plains, as well as beaches and massive sand hills. The grade-four walking track snakes between the Noosa North Shore and Rainbow Beach (you can tackle it south to north, as we do, or vice versa).

Sitting eating our lunch wraps on day four, we’ve come a long way from day one, where we began our walk through coastal heathlands dotted with wildflowers, then along Teewah Beach. As we climbed up

into the Cooloola Sandmass, we got our first taste of the views – from Mount Seewah the Pacific Ocean looks never-ending. By the time we pulled into Brahminy walkers’ camp that afternoon, we already had a sense of accomplishment.

And the uphills were well worth it for the camp’s position – perched as it is, framing the ocean on one side and Lake Cootharaba on the other.

We’re on a tour with Steve Grainger from Tropical Treks, a guided bushwalk and birdwatching operator. Steve’s an all-round adventure man – his experience includes everything from 11-day whitewater rafting adventures in Tasmania (he’s qualified in whitewater rescue, too) to hiking throughout the Middle East – and he possesses near-encyclopaedic knowledge of Australian flora and fauna. Cooloola, he tells us, is the Gubbi Gubbi word for the evergreen coastal cypress pine, Callitris columellaris. It’s the sound the wind makes whispering through tree branches.

For our trek, we’re carrying all of our camping gear, food and water.

In many sections of the Cooloola Great Walk, walkers are expected

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Cooloola great walk traverses an ancient sand deposit, Pacific views from the Sandmass, native blooms, a well-deserved rest for the night.

PHOTOGRAPHY REUBEN NUTT, FOOTLOOSE FOTOGRAPHY / ANDREW PEACOCK, LIZZIE WEIGH

ueensland’s Sunshine Coast boasts a diverse and ancient landscape, teeming with plants and wildlife, as well as Indigenous culture and history. From the beaches to the hinterland, seasoned walkers and daytrippers alike can head here to experience some of Australia’s most untouched land, leaving nothing but footprints.

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we head into the woodlands, through towering scribbly gum and blackbutt forests

to be fully self-sufficient – though some sections are popular with daytrippers. Our days consist of rising and shining with the first rays of light, packing up camp and heading out for six or seven hours of walking, watching and learning.

By afternoon, we’re setting up camp and getting into our nightly ritual.

While dehydrated meals are on the up in terms of taste thanks to local outfit Campers Pantry, Deb Instant Mashed Potatoes proved a winning side. And instant miso soup, a genius idea from the other half of Tropical Treks, Winnie Shiroma, provides a warming nightly entrée.

On day two we head into the woodlands, through towering scribbly gum and blackbutt forests, with glimpses of Lake Cooloola through the tree line. We also meet our first big challenge – the Cooloola Sandpatch. While only a kilometre wide, it’s touted as the hardest part of the walk.

Day two’s Dutgee walkers’ camp is in the Noosa Everglades, a naturally formed region of tropical wetlands and one of only two everglades systems in the world.

It’s positioned right on the Noosa River, known as the ‘River of Mirrors’, where the surface is barely disturbed by a ripple, giving a glasslike reflection of the trees and sky.

This peaceful site leaves us wellrested for day three, which despite being the shortest day in distance at around 15km, ends up being fairly steep in parts. Litoria walkers’ camp, our night three spot, is set on a ridge in a eucalypt forest while the final camp, Kauri, is nestled below in the subtropical rainforest we’ve walked through all day. The gargantuan kauri pine grows 3kg seed cones (it’s wise not to linger beneath them during November

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Relax and retreat

Hidden coves in the Noosa National Park. BELOW: Navigating new terrain on the Cooloola Great Walk.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, FOOTLOOSE FOTOGRAPHY / ANDREW PEACOCK

and December, when the pods may be liable to fall).

When we step onto the Carlo Sand Blow at the end of day five with 800m to go, the sense of achievement is immense – as are the amazing views from the sand cliffs, which stretch from Double Island Point in the east to Tin Can Bay in the west.

Day dabblers It would be rude to visit Noosa and not explore some of its eponymous national park. Many people seem to think so, too, and you’ll find the path – beginning at Noosa Main Beach – well frequented by families, joggers and locals.

For a quieter walk, head 45 minutes or so down the track.

After Hell’s Gates the crowds taper off, leaving you free to explore out-of-the-way beaches and the Tanglewood Track. While not far from the township, you can still expect to see some wildlife here, such as dolphins, turtles, sea eagles, lizards and, if you’re lucky, migrating whales.

To the south, between Noosa and Caloundra, is the domeshaped Mount Coolum within Mount Coolum National Park.

If you’re not up for camping, or need to relax and refresh between outings, there are options aplenty, and many of them in the heart of stunning bushland.

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Visible across the Sunshine Coast, it’s 208m above sea level and provides spectacular views of the coast. Reaching the summit takes approximately two hours on a grade-four track. While you can’t camp here, there is accommodation on offer – camping and otherwise – in nearby Coolum Beach.

Further south is Glass House Mountains National Park, with distinctive peaks that were formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago. The area is also of

spiritual importance to Indigenous people, traditionally used for ceremonies and trading. Many ceremonial sites are still here and protected.

There is a range of walking tracks within the park, catering to those after a gentle stroll as well as walkers with a medium level of fitness. The 364-metre climb to the summit of the park’s second steepest mountain, Mount Tibrogargan, is not for beginners and culturally sensitive for

Explore I SUNSHINE COAST

Horse around in Noosa

Cooloola Great Walk Adventure with Tropical Treks FULLY GUIDED FIVE-DAY, FOUR-NIGHT HIKE: $1095

Saddle club Ten minutes south of Noosa is Noosa Horse Riding, and today I’m happy to be leaving the walking to someone else – my gentle giant, ex-racehorse Jesse. I head out on a beginner walk, meandering through the gentle and pretty bushland before plunging into Lake Weyba, an expansive but shallow saltwater lake. As we walk, stingrays glide around the feet of the horses, who remain completely unfazed.

Owner Dave Madden tells me they recently hosted Australian para-athletes, some of whom hadn’t been riding before. The horses are

As the horses slosh through the water we soak in the view calm throughout, used to having riders of all abilities aboard.

Riders can book in for beginner, intermediate or experienced rides, as well as casual lessons and lesson packages. In the ‘Pony Express’ van, Dave also offers transfers around the Noosa area.

As the horses slosh through the water we have many chances to soak in the view. To our left we can see kite surfers getting the most out of a beautiful Saturday morning. Right across the lake, Dave points out Noosa Heads – “that’s pretty much Hastings Street you can see,” he says.

And while, at the end of a week spent clocking up many daily steps, it is nice to head back to the laidback buzz of Noosa’s Hastings Street, with its delicious local food and wine, it’s all the better looking around and feeling a sense of having uncovered even a little of what this stunning region has to offer.

Tours depart fortnightly from April to the end of September. Camp gear and hiking equipment is available for hire. tropicaltreks.com.au

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to the Sunshine Coast from most major cities.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY LIZZIE WEIGH, NOOSA HORSE RIDING

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tradtional owners – the lessdemanding Tibrogargan Circuit is grade-three – it’s only 800m to the lookout and just over 3km to traverse the entire circuit.

Many companies, including Tropical Treks, offer a range of guided day hikes in the Blackall Range, Conondale Range and Glass House Mountains, among other spots. As well as unique flora, there are some 300 species of birds found in the region, making going with a guide well worth it for the things easy to miss on your own.

INCLUDES: • Transfer from Noosa accommodation • One night pre-walk accommodation, including drinks and dinner, at Noosa North Shore Retreat • Meals and drinks throughout the walk • Camping permits • Topographic map produced by the Queensland Government • Celebration lunch, including drinks, at Rainbow Beach (Day 5) • Transfer from Rainbow Beach to Noosa (Day 5)

THE MILFORD & ROUTEBURN TRACK GUIDED WALKS Ultimate Hikes are the only operators of the Guided Walks on the iconic Milford and Routeburn Tracks. Immerse yourself in an unforgettable 5 day/4 night experience on the Milford Track or discover an alpine paradise with the 3 day/2night Routeburn Track adventure. Our lodges are fully staffed and provide walkers with the pleasure of hot showers, warm beds, good food and great company to round out your days exploring New Zealand’s national parks.

Book now to secure your Great Walk in the 2018/19 season.

www.ultimatehikes.co.nz

A CRAFT BEER SCENE IS BREWING IN SYDNEY’S INNER WEST, WITH MORE THAN A DOZEN MICROBREWERIES AND TAPROOMS SPRINGING UP WORDS BELINDA LUKSIC

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, YOUNG HENRYS, DESTINATION NSW, THE GRIFTER BREWING CO

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BACKSTREET BREWS

Explore INNER WEST SYDNEY

H

ead down the backstreets of Sydney’s inner west and you’re sure to stumble upon a refreshing find. In the past 10 years, the number of microbreweries in Australia has risen from 30 to more than 500 – and the innerwestern Sydney suburbs of Marrickville, Enmore and Newtown are hotspots. This hip area – a short bus or train ride from the city centre – is crowded with great food, live music, urban art and not a lockout law in sight.

Some of the microbreweries are tiny with only a handful of beers.

Others have live music and themed nights. Expect a rotation of food trucks on weekends and a laid-back neighbourly vibe, where everyone from hipsters to young families and dogs are welcome.

ON THE ALE TRAIL Young Henrys is a name most beer lovers will recognise, and this Newtown favourite is a good spot to start on a brewery-walking tour. Visit the art-splashed warehouse off Enmore Road to down seasonal beers and hop-driven ales, like the award-winning Real Ale, an Aussie spin on an English bitter.

Last year, spirits and cider were added to the mix, including a small-batch gin and vermouth.

For a spirited non-beer option, try the Noble Cut gin and tonic, served with a sprig of thyme and slice of blood orange.

Down the road at Wildflower Brewing & Blending, a former metal foundry with olde-worlde charm, Table Beer is the star.

This Belgian style of beer is typically light-bodied and low in alcohol. At Wildflower, it’s brewed using wild yeast foraged in NSW. “Table Beer is a social drink and should be for everyone – to be enjoyed with friends,” says manager Luke Hipper. To that end, there are four quaffable ales at the very sociable price of $6 a pop.

From here it’s a short walk to three other breweries. The Grifter Brewing Company is a popular stop on a craft beer tour for good reason. Next door to

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CLOCKWISE: On tap at Young Henrys, Wildflower Brewing & Blending, on the streets of Newtown, The Grifter Brewing Co., Young Henrys.

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live music pub Vic on the Park, the large microbrewery has inventive ales and a rotation of 12 beers on tap, with a new one added fortnightly. The Pale Ale is what cemented the brewery’s reputation, but for something different try the Serpents Kiss, a bright watermelon pilsner. Arrive early to beat the queues and score a game on the pool table.

Sauce Brewing Co opened around the corner last year with 12 taps, tasting paddles of four, and a good selection of wines and snacks. On a sunny day, its beer garden is the place to be. Nearby at Batch Brewing Company on Sydenham Road, there is a food truck out the front and the buzz of people taste-testing experimental ales with clout, such as the coffee porter, a sour, berry-infused ale, or the nitro-generated stout with lactose.

Elsewhere in the inner west there’s Willie the Boatman, a small outfit in St Peters, famous for its Albo Corn Ale, named after local Labor MP Anthony Albanese who has been known to sink a pint or two here. It’s next door to Maniax, Sydney’s only axe-throwing venue.

Camperdown has Wayward Brewing Co., a hidden favourite with a giant Jenga game and live acoustic sets on Sundays.

At Staves Brewery in Glebe, a hidden gem with a beer garden near Broadway Shopping Centre, the beers are hand-pumped (a typically English way to serve ale).

On a sunny day, its beer garden is the place to be

CLOCKWISE: Wayward Brewing Co., Willie the Boatman, tank to tap at Sauce Brewing Co, Batch Brews, pouring at Staves Brewery.

PHOTOGRAPHY SAUCE BREWING CO, BATCH BREWING COMPANY, STAVES BREWERY, WILLIE THE BOATMAN, WAYWARD BREWING CO

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GET TO KNOW YOUR TASMANIAN WHISKIES AND THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THEM.

The 2018 Tasmanian Whisky Week takes place from Monday 13th – Sunday 19th August, with industry events held across seven days in Tasmanian distilleries, bars, barns, stables, restaurants and hotels. Throughout the week distilleries will be opening their doors to host behind-the-scenes tours to meet the distillers in person, provide access to unreleased whiskies, and offer dining opportunities where distilleries (both old and new) will recount the successes, challenges and events that have shaped who they are today.

Be sure to book early as there are limited tickets to each event. Tas Whisky Week promises to be a feast of memorable Tasmanian whisky events that will stay with you long after the final dram.

Saffire whisky business Where: Saffire Freycinet When: 10–12 August 2018, Cost: enquire within

Awda cocktails & canapes Where: Society Salamanca, When: 14 August 2018, Cost: $75

Whisky weekend at Ratho Where: Ratho Farm, When: 11–12 August 2018, Cost: enquire within

Midlands masterclass Where: The Den, When: 15 August 2018, Cost: $55

New make night Where: Robbie Brown’s, When: 13 August 2018, Cost: $45

Liquid gold at Gold Bar Where: Gold Bar, When: 16 August 2018, Cost: $45

Northern night Where: St John’s Bar, When: 14 August 2018, Cost: $65

Landscape X Old Kempton distillery Where: Landscape Restaurant, When: 16 August 2018, Cost: $275

Belgrove liquid gold award winners Where: T-Bone Brewing Co, When: 16 August 2018, Cost: $65 Founder’s night Where: The Glasshouse, When: 17 August 2018, Cost: $125

Farmgate whisky weekend Where: Bathurst St, Hobart, When: 19 August 2018, Cost: free From the cradle to the grave Where: Italian Pantry, When: 19 August 2018, Cost: $85

Tasmanian spirits showcase Where: Henry Jones Atrium, When: 18 August 2018, Cost: $99 A night of stories Where: Story Bar, When: 19 August 2018, Cost: free

To book events,visit: www.taswhiskyweek.com

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WHERE TO WINE AND DINE

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It’s easy to be distracted on a craft beer tour and forget there is some seriously great food in Sydney’s inner west.

Foodies flock to Enmore Road, a multicultural melting pot of restaurants that’s buzzing most nights. Begin at Bovine & Swine Barbecue Co., a no-frills Americanstyle barbecue joint where smoked beef brisket, ribs and house-made pastrami are served until sold out.

Across the road at Cairo Takeaway, there is welldeserved buzz for the falafel, a plump pocket of goodness, made using fava beans and served with bright, pickled veggies, which you can also eat in. The Queens Hotel, an old pub given a facelift last

year by the Merivale Group, has a British colonial-themed restaurant and bar upstairs serving Cantonese-style barbecued meats and dumplings.

It’s known as ‘Little Vietnam’ but there is more to Marrickville than pho.

Barzaari, on Addison Road near Grifter, gives a nod to the suburb’s former Greek community with an eastern Mediterranean menu full of tempting share plates. The woodfired pork neck with smoky eggplant ticks all the boxes. For modern-day Vietnamese, there is Hello Auntie. Order the banh xeo, a crispy coconut and turmeric crêpe that tastes as good as it looks. Pizza Madre, a vegetarian pizza bar from local favourite Two Chaps, serves up simple Neapolitaninspired pizzas along with negronis, a wild-ferment beer and wine by the glass.

PHOTOGRAPHY BARZAARI, QUEENS HOTEL/ MERIVALE, CAIRO TAKEAWAY, HELLO AUNTIE. BOVINE AND SWINE

CLOCKWISE: Queens Hotel, Cairo Takeaway, Bovine & Swine, colourful fare at Barzaari, inside Barzaari, Hello Auntie.

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BRIMMING WITH BARS AND PUBS Live music and small bars are CLOCKWISE: The Midnight Special, cocktails from Secret Garden Bar, Poor Tom’s Gin, Dave’s Brewery Tours.

Order a margarita to get the party started

Hitting the hops …

From Friday to Sunday, Dave’s Brewery Tours takes groups on a ‘Hipsters & Hops’ journey of the inner west. The daytrip includes three microbreweries (two in the inner west, one in The Rocks) and lunch in a pub. daves.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY THE MIDNIGHT SPECIAL, SECRET GARDEN BAR, POOR TOM’S GIN, DAVE’S BREWERY TOURS

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the cogs of the inner west. The Midnight Special, a low-lit rock ‘n’ roll bar on Enmore Road, has handcrafted cocktails and a roll call of local and international acts serving up blues and rock.

Order a margarita to get the party started or dip into their fat-washed whisky. Close by, the Secret Garden Bar covers all bases: mildmannered beer garden by day and pumping cocktail bar with dance music DJs at night. For rum fans, there is Jacoby’s, a swish tiki bar where the cocktails are served in bowls.

Marrickville upped its game last year with the opening of Where’s Nick, a biodynamic wine bar with a blackboard menu packed with interesting tipples from around the world. It’s down the road from local favourite Gasoline Pony – a small bar serving up cocktails, craft beer and wine alongside a roster of live music most nights that runs the gamut of blues, rock, acoustic and electric. Poor Toms Gin Hall is the new kid on the block – a funky warehouse cocktail bar filled with art, a small weekly-changing menu of gin-driven cocktails and pizza delivered from Pizza Madre. For last drinks, Bucket Boys on Illawarra Road has an upstairs bar open until midnight with a fine selection of Australian craft beers on tap, wine and snacks.

SKINCARE RANGE

www.

RAWMATERIALS.

com.au

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Travel buddies

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PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Plus one

TIPS AND TRICKS FOR SOLO PARENTS ON THE ROAD WITH THEIR MINI TRAVELLERS

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A perfect pair

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, GETTY IMAGES, INTREPID TRAVEL

E

very parent knows travel days can be long when the kids leap up the minute the sun peeks through a hotel window. But they’re even longer when you’re the only adult in the room.

It’s a feeling I know well. Since becoming a solo parent, I’ve remained determined to bring my son on my regular adventures. In return, others have been equally determined to tell me that I’m bonkers.

I’ve ignored them, and as a result my son, now four, has visited half of Australia’s states and territories, and 10 countries before hitting preschool. When he was a baby we jaunted around Europe; in toddlerhood

we splashed in the clear waters of Noosa and made sandcastles in the Whitsundays; and last year he was doted on by Fiji’s kid-loving locals before taste-testing his way through the tropical fruits of Vietnam.

No longer the loneliest number Travelling solo with a child may sound like it’s not for the faint-hearted, but it’s a growing trend.

Solo parents make up more than 15 per cent of Australian families, a fact the travel industry is starting to wake up to. In response, Intrepid Travel has introduced half a dozen tours designed for solo parents and their children.

Sarah Thomas, solo parent to nine-year-old Griffin, took her son to

It was the most relaxing and interesting holiday we’d managed to have together Vietnam on an Intrepid Family Holiday last year.

The group experience solved many of her challenges, providing kids to play with, adults to talk

to and taking the logistics out of Sarah’s hands.

“It was the most relaxing and interesting holiday we’d managed to have together and it

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restored my faith that my travelling days are not over until Griff has grown up,” Sarah says. But while the families were likeminded, she did find one problem.

“I felt a little out of place among all the couples. I think the Solo Parent option will be fantastic,” she says. Tours start this month.

For solo parents travelling under their own steam, a few tips will exponentially improve the family travel experience.

Diving straight in

Plan hard, travel easy

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

If you’re new to solo parent travel, choose a famously kid-friendly location (Fiji and Bali are good short-hop options) or an “easy” city such as Singapore (the most kidfriendly city in Asia) to stretch your travel legs.

Next, put extra thought into the logistics. I quickly learned that convenience is king, and worth paying for. On an upcoming trip to Singapore, I’ve booked a hotel that’s a strategic 180m from a metro train line. As a solo parent, I

Play it safe around water. BELOW: Intrepid's Solo Parent trips visit destinations such as Thailand.

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I quickly learned that convenience is king, and worth paying for also take taxis more often; the goal is to make transit and transfers as seamless as possible.

Itineraries too, need consideration. What can seem restful with two adults can be hard work with one. While all parents are on high alert with a toddler around a pool, try it solo for hours in a location with no pool fence.

When I’m alone, we take regular breaks away from the water where I can dial my parenting alert down a notch from 'super vigilant' and, given there’s only one pair of eyes, I always take a swim vest for their protection.

Pack light (yes, really) As a solo parent, packing lightly pays off. The 'hands free' state gained with a backpack often beats a suitcase, while it’s worth being discerning with gear such as prams

and travel cots.

“My advice is to buy the best travel products available,” says Bevin Aston, who has travelled solo with her son on many occasions, including for three months around Europe. “Not only are they easiest to travel with but they also retain their value when reselling,” she says.

For my part, I’m generally happy to replace extra clothing with things that will help keep my son entertained. I never skimp on books and toys for flights, transits or downtime. On longer trips I top up locally: during a month in HÔi An we bought big toy trucks from the local market then donated them to a local orphanage when we left.

TOP OF PAGE: The writer's adventures with her son.

BELOW: Take time to soak up the sights in places such as Tokyo.

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How to stay social Kids love being around other kids, while adults love, well, the occasional conversation with someone whose age has hit double digits.

Travelling with other families is an excellent solution for solo parents, but failing that, try to build some deliberate socialising into your itinerary.

While all parents crave downtime, it’s likely none do more so than the travelling solo parent Research local playgroups or kids’ activities in advance, not just for them, but for you.

In HÔi An in Vietnam, we found two great cafés with playgrounds attached. My son played while I read my book nearby or chatted with other parents.

The social side of your accommodation choice is also worth some forethought. Resorts are hit and miss in terms of being sociable, but often have the advantage of kids’ clubs and nannies.

Family-friendly youth hostels won’t have builtin childcare, but they can be social — book a

private room and use the communal kitchens and lounge areas to meet people. If you’re booking an Airbnb, consider renting a private room in a family home rather than renting the whole place for yourself.

Finding downtime While all parents crave downtime, it’s likely none do more so than the travelling solo parent. Days are long, so it’s tempting to use the evenings to recoup a sense of self. I often hire a babysitter when my son is asleep to go exploring when he won’t miss me, and I love

accommodation offering a sense of connection – a balcony where you can watch the world go by does wonders when you have limited freedom to nip out for an evening walk.

I do, however fall into one trap that Leah Smileski, who regularly travels solo with her kids, warns against.

“I’ve been guilty of staying up late to recoup ‘me’ time on many of our adventures. But it leaves me tired the following day when my kids wake up with the sun, so when travelling solo I go to sleep an hour or two after them,” she says.

Leah wisely factors in break days where the childcare is low key.

“Every four or five days we take everything slowly and don’t plan anything. In Tokyo we spent a day roaming Shinjuku, stopping in toy stores, eating at will and taking our time in cafés.

We had no agenda and even returned to our hotel early with snacks to watch Japanese game shows and lounge around,” she says.

Sue White is a journalist, travel writer and founder of free Facebook group Kids Who Travel.

PHOTOGRAPHY SUE WHITE, ALAMY

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This month

GREAT THINGS TO DO, BUY AND EXPERIENCE

Find Africa in Vic Journey across the African savannah, just 30 minutes outside of Melbourne!

Werribee Open Range Zoo’s safari tour will bring you up close to some of the world’s most majestic animals on the Zoo’s open plains. And bonus – the safari tour is free with Zoo entry!

Find your perfect tattoo in Canggu

Winter Wonderland For the ultimate day out this winter, grab a super combo pass from Tekapo Springs! The pass includes all-day ice skating and hot pools plus one-hour snow tubing. Located in Tekapo in the South Island, this is a winter must-do! tekaposprings.co.nz

For skilled international artists, unique styles and custom designs, plus a bright, modern, clean and unintimidating space visit Koloni. Friendly vibes and high-quality materials. Walk in or shoot us a message to set up a one-on-one consultation. kolonitattoo.com Instagram: @kolonitattoo

Tasmania’s winter is warming up With the solstice almost upon us, Dark Mofo kicks off winter with a lineup that’s going to be darker than ever. Winter promises whisky too and singing in public. Feed your curious this winter. gobehindthescenery.com.au

Success in the west

Fun with the family

TAFE International Western Australia provides the skills for success in your career, providing modern facilities, industry specialist lecturers and practical learning. With students from around the world studying alongside locals, you’ll always feel welcome. tafeinternational.wa.edu.au

Save on family experiences these school holidays with Australia’s number one booking site for things to do. Get the best deals on theme parks, zoos, activities and everything FUN. Use code JETSTARJULY for an extra five per cent off site-wide. experienceoz.com.au

FIESTY FEASTING Try street food with a roar at Tiger Palm’s Hawker brunch, from 12pm every Saturday and Sunday.

Book your table now: + 62 813 3942 3039 Jl. Kayu Jati No.8, Seminyak, Kuta, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80361 tigerpalmbali.com

Looking for the perfect gift?

Gift It Now has you covered! With 2000+ experience gift vouchers Australia-wide, you can gift hot air balloon flights, koala cuddles, cooking classes and more.

Experiences are better than things at Gift It Now. giftitnow.com.au

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“I found it in Japan!”

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Dance in the desert

The world’s most remote music festival, Birdsville Big Red Bash (10-12 July) promises iconic Australian artists in an iconic Australian setting.

NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

PHOTO TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Jetstar’s Juniors Travel Blogger , went to Adelaide.

Kenzie, 11, of Queensland aide?

-el rad it But was

Animal Antics On Wednesday we went to Adelaide Zoo – one of the places I really wanted to go. They had a craft show on, where you could make animals with cardboard, zip ties and split pins. I made a turtle, because I have a pet turtle at home. His name is Thomas.

We also met the only two pandas in Australia, Wang Wang and Fu Ni. I got a special holographic badge of both of them. We met Australia’s only flamingo too, who came to the zoo in the ’70s. His name is Chile, because he’s from Chile. The keeper who cares for the flamingo has been looking after him for 12 years.

Winner!

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K-Zone and Total recently called ou Girl t to of Australia to see the kids who had the makings of a Jetstar Junior Blogger. Six cleve r won a flight to the winners Australi destination of the an ir choosing.

TEAM TRAVEL TIPS

Three reasons to visit Tasmania - with Shauna Misevski

1 Be entertained by buskers while you trawl through the stalls at Salamanca Market in Hobart. You’ll find leather goods, organic soaps, delicious food, local artwork and handmade items.

Executive Assistant, Jetstar

2 The Huon Valley is just 90 minutes’ drive from Hobart and another great location for adventurous travellers.

The Tahune AirWalk is elevated 30 metres above the forest floor and offers amazing views of the Huon River.

3 Cradle Mountain is an incredible spot for hikers and thrillseekers. The views from the summit are simply spectacular! Stay at Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village and enjoy spa baths and visits from local wildlife.

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WILD ABOUT THE WHITSUNDAYS Travel writer Robin Esrock is taking his family across Australia in search of unique experiences. This month he visits the Whitsunday Coast.

There’s no question the Great Barrier Reef belongs on any Australian bucket list. The question is: how does one tackle a chain of 2900 reefs stretching over 2300 kilometres? Stay on an island resort, or take a helicopter ride? Snorkel off a pontoon, sail or scuba dive? I did it all, but one experience floated to the top.

Cruise Whitsundays operates a 45-metre long pontoon above Hardy Reef, where daytrippers from Airlie Beach and Hamilton Island can snorkel or dive, enjoy a semisubmersible and underwater viewing deck, and learn all about the fascinating reef eco-system. At 3pm, the catamaran ferry departs the pontoon, leaving 24 lucky passengers behind – myself included. Until 11am the following morning, us Reefsleep guests have the colourful coral and abundant marine life all to ourselves. Toasting a magical sunset, we devour a gourmet meal, and sleep in swags under the bright Milky Way. The crew take care of our every need, and, with hot showers, mattresses and flush toilets, it’s a comfortable, unusual and especially romantic place to spend the night.

Watching the sunrise between my feet at low tide on the outer Great Barrier Reef? That’s one way to do it, and another unforgettable tick on the bucket list.

Robin Esrock’s next book, The Great Australian Bucket List, will be published in October. Follow his journey at @robinesrock or esrockingkids.com

Young achiever

Christmas

in July

JANSEN PETERSEN was no ordinary 13-yearold. At an age when his friends were fixated on social media, gaming or sport, Jansen’s focus was on starting a fundraiser.

Now 18, Jansen started the not-for-profit Christmas In July dinner event, held annually in Melbourne, with the sole purpose of giving back to the community.

Since 2013, he has helped raise more than $100,000 for causes such as White Lion, Diabetes Victoria and Very Special Kids.

“Finding out what people have gone through with their many different struggles ... has made me appreciate the life I was gifted and motivates me to give

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back,” Jansen says.

This year, Christmas In July is raising funds for the Royal Children’s Hospital, Newborn Intensive Care Unit (Butterfly Ward) to give premature and seriously ill babies a chance to live long and happy lives.

Kooks Social Winery is proud to support this sensational Santa’s incredible generosity.

To find out more, visit christmas-in-july.com.au Support this and other great causes by purchasing Kooks wine on board your flight. kooks.com.au

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Life at Jetstar WORKING AT JETSTAR is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about.

JETSTAR’S TRUMP CARD

Meet Warren!

The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career. But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read Warren’s story below, or visit Life at Jetstar: Jetstar.com/au/en/careers/lifeat-jetstar

*0% p.a. interest for 14 months on balance transfers

Go team!

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WARREN TEWKESBURY Job Title: Technical Records Officer within Engineering Services No. of years at Jetstar: Two | Location: Melbourne Head Office How did you end up at Jetstar?

I have a recruitment background and started as a contractor in Jetstar’s Resourcing Team, supporting our Engineering and Safety divisions. As a child, I had a love for aviation. I knew it was an industry I was passionate about and wanted to commit to long-term.

Describe a typical day: I work a rotating shift roster consisting of three days and one night, then four days off. Day shifts begin with checking the previous day’s flight logs for our fleet of Airbus and Boeing aircraft. Following this we review engineering maintenance logs, work orders and respond to queries relating to the installation and removal of aircraft parts.

What’s been the greatest challenge in your job so far?

Even though I’d been providing engineering recruitment support, I wasn’t prepared for the vast array

Not only does the Jetstar Platinum MasterCard promise discounted food and drink on board any Jetstar flight, 0 per cent balance transfers* and complimentary travel insurance, but it has also just been ranked as one of Australia’s best! The card was assessed against 196 others and picked up not one, but two five-star placings in Canstar’s latest Credit Card Ratings. The card was recognised within the categories of rewards and platinum cards.

of information I’d need to familiarise myself with. If you like acronyms, then you’ll love aviation. Also getting used to working night shifts, but the four days off certainly help!

And the career highlight?

Frequent flights in the jump seat – that’s the spare seat in the flight deck behind the pilots. For someone that loves air travel, it rates very high on the cool factor!

What do you love about the industry?

It’s incredibly dynamic and full of people who are extremely passionate about what they do.

What would surprise people about your job?

An aviation background isn’t a pre-requisite, though exposure to our engineering division certainly helped in my case. My role is heavily compliance-related so it requires attention to detail over long, busy shifts.

On 10 June, some 157 Jetstar team members and their families participated in the Cairns Airport Ironman triathlon. Set against the beautiful backdrop of tropical rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef, Jetstar staff took part in the 1.9km swim, 90km ride and 21.1km run as teams and individuals. Led by our coach, Jetstar A320 Captain Craig Needham, the team came from many of the airline’s different departments – engineers, check-in staff, head office pilots and cabin crew. All of our ports, from Japan to New Zealand, sent teams. We were especially proud of our 25 Jetstar Ironkids, too. Well done everyone!

Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

MYANMAR I STARKIDS

Growing better fortunes Vegetable gardens are helping families transform their children’s futures WORDS MEGAN ANDERSON

U Maung Pe’s family helps out with the gardening.

PHOTO WORLD VISION

I

n Myanmar, U Maung Pe is watering his garden. Packed with leafy seasonal crops, the garden isn’t just a source of pride for the father of two – it’s helping to send his children through school.

While 45-year-old U Maung Pe works hard as a labourer and seasonal farmer, he struggles to earn enough to support his family. His past attempts to grow food were not as effective as he’d hoped.

“It turned out good,” he says of the old garden, “but not as successful as right now.”

The transformation took place after U Maung Pe attended agricultural training in his

community. Supported by StarKids and facilitated

by World Vision, the training taught U Maung Pe essential organic gardening techniques, such as how to use worm castings (earthworm manure) as fertiliser.

Now, he’s producing more crops than ever.

“The result of worm cast[ings] is amazing – my plants are now bigger in size,” he says. “I’m happy I had the chance to attend the training from World Vision. I now know the best way to grow vegetables and how to breed worm cast[ings] for fertiliser.”

World Vision also supported U Maung Pe and his village with seeds and training for growing seasonal crops.

You can help!

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need.

Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia.

By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future.

A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia.

Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information.

Your small change today could change a life tomorrow!

JETSTAR.COM Instead of spending hard-earned money on vegetables from the market or fertiliser for the garden, U Maung Pe’s family can now save for the future. He also hopes

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

This year*

$939,594 Total

$10,102,543 to share his new skills with others in his village.

U Maung Pe’s wife says home gardening has transformed their family.

“I don’t need to worry about buying vegetables for my chicken anymore,” she says. “And [there’s] also enough to pack lunch boxes for my children.”

These days, U Maung Pe is growing enough vegetables to feed not just his children, but others in the community too.

“It’s more than enough for our family … we can even share the vegetables with the neighbours.”

*Funds raised in 2018 financial year as of May 2018. Total raised since 2007.

147

Explore Essentials I INTERVIEW I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

AVIATION HISTORY

From the female Kiwi pilot who broke world records to the escape artist who manned Australia’s first flight, here are a few flying facts you may not know

A female first 148

Deborah Lawrie was the first woman to become a pilot with a major Australian airline in 1979, following a landmark sex discrimination case against now-defunct carrier Ansett.

LEADING

LADY

Celebrated as one of New Zealand’s greatest aviators, Jean Batten made a number of record-breaking solo flights across the world in the 1930s, including the first solo flight from England to New Zealand in 1936.

The Kiwi pilot received numerous honours throughout her career, including a CBE (Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) for her services to the aviation industry.

Magical mystery tour The first controlled, powered flight of an airplane in Australia was made by none other than famed illusionist and stunt performer Harry Houdini on March 18, 1910 at Diggers Rest in suburban Melbourne.

DID you KNOW ?

A small town of approximately nine in the Northern Territory, Daly Waters played host to Australia’s first international airfield in the 1920s. The last commercial flight landed there in April 1970, though the original Qantas hangar still stands, housing exhibits of photographs and equipment from the area’s aviation past.

WINGED MEDICS The Royal Flying Doctor Service of Australia is one of the largest and most comprehensive aeromedical organisations in the world. Last year alone the service clocked up more than 26 million kilometres flying back and forth across Australia, and it holds 44 clinics every day.

AVIATION’S FOUNDING FATHERS The Wright Brothers are widely recognised as the first to invent, build and fly the world’s first successful airplane. Two American aviators, engineers and inventors, Orville and Wilbur made the first controlled, sustained flight of a powered, heavier-than-air aircraft on December 17, 1903 in North Carolina.

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou

Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou Hanoi Dong Hoi

Chiang Mai

Yangon Bangkok

150

Shantou

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Phnom Penh

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kumamoto Kagoshima Miyazaki

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Phu Quoc

Nha Trang Da Lat

Ho Chi Minh City Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 6 September, subject to regulatory approval

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon) Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 3 August Operated by Jetstar Airways

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

151

JOGJA INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL MART 2018 An Event to Boost Local Tourism to International Market

DINAS PARIWISATA DAERAH ISTIMEWA YOGYAKARTA

J

Yogyakarta Tourism Authority has held Jogja International Travel Mart for the 9th times. This event was held in Kasultanan Ballroom, Royal Ambarrukmo Hotel Yogyakarta, in which its tabletop involving at least from 19 countries and 79 sellers from tourism actors in Yogyakarta.

ogja International Travel Mart has been held since 2010 which initiated by Yogyakarta Tourism Authority incorporate with Yogyakarta Travel Agent Association and Yogyakarta Hotel and Restaurant Association. JITM is an annual event and this year is its the 9th edition.

Under the theme of “Jogjakarta, A New Gateway to Your Journey”, JITM 2018 is expected to be able in increasing the cooperation between Yogyakarta Tourism Authority, Indonesian Travel Agent Association chapter Yogyakarta Special Region and Indonesian Hotel and Restaurant Association chapter Yogyakarta Special Region with the business tourism actors in global tourism sector. Moreover, this theme also emphasizes to promote the New Yogyakarta International Airport (NYIA) as a gateway to increase the tourist visits in Yogyakarta which will be operated in 2019.

The head of Yogyakarta Tourism Authority, Aris Riyanta in the press conference

explained that JITM 2018 is the event to broaden the tourism network in order to trigger a positive impact for tourism market in Yogyakarta. “I express my highest appreciation to anyone that involved in organizing the JITM 2018, which entering its 9th edition. I hope that this marketplace event can boost and develop the tourism sector in Yogyakarta. Moreover, the opening of the New Yogyakarta International Airport in Kulon Progo is also targeted to increase the amount of international tourist visits to Yogyakarta with the

INDONESIA

Yogyakarta support of direct flight from various cities in different countries to Yogyakarta”, he said.

The opening ceremony of JITM 2018 event was inaugurated by Prof. Dr. I Gede Pitana, the Indonesian Tourism Ministry’s Deputy Minister for International Marketing.

In his statement, he expressed his appreciation in the implementation of JITM 2018 which truly represent healthy tourism marketplace. “I rarely found a travel mart in Indonesia which feels like a good tourism sector trade event. JITM 2018 this time should get acknowledged for its attempt to bring a marketplace together for goods and service products in Yogyakarta”, he explained.

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town

See the light in Ballina

153

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour.

Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12.

Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre.

Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20.

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle.

Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $65 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $55 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor for fare voucher.

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential).

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle.

Adult $21, child $13; return:

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

adult $41, child $21.

Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 154

15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25.

TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon) TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: adult $32, child $26, return: $64.

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins

Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers.

TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Newcastle 27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk.

Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred).

From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles.

Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect.

Tickets $15; return: $30.

Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers.

Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32.

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80.

TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22.

TransLink Bus 622.

Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle.

Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins.

Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit.

Adult $18, child $13.

Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18.

Bookings not required.

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At 120m high, the Melbourne Star is as tall as a 40-storey building with each of its 21 temperaturecontrolled and fully enclosed glass cabins offering you unparalleled 360-degree views. With its spectacular light shows and striking scale, the

Melbourne Star is a glittering jewel in the sky above Melbourne’s Docklands. Enjoy a tea or coffee before your flight at our Star Departure Lounge or better yet, treat yourself to a Melbourne Star Sparkling Flight – take in stunning views of Melbourne while enjoying a glass of Australian bubbles, white or red wine, cold beer or cider on-board a shared or Private Cabin. A Sparkling Flight is the perfect way to complement the Melbourne Star experience.

Book your tickets online today and enjoy 25% off * your Melbourne Star flights when using promo code

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melbournestar.com

*Valid until 30 September 2018 on single general admission adult and child tickets. Online redemption only.

Travelling with kids

WELCOME ABOARD!

ON BOARD WITH THE BROOD?

FLYING JETSTAR WITH KIDS?

Master the art of holidaying with kids thanks to well-travelled mum Meri Hindes With the right preparation, advice and, perhaps most importantly, attitude, you can sit back and enjoy the ride – and yes, that includes the plane ride!

PRE-PLANE

156

FLY AT A SANE TIME Get the flight time right to kickstart your holiday on a positive note. Flights at the crack of dawn or late at night can often be cheaper but the value of a well-rested child far outweighs the few dollars you’ll save.

DO YOUR RESEARCH As well as the usual search for kid-friendly hotels, restaurants and activities, pre-organise things such as cots, car seats and transport to avoid waiting around. Also, if heading overseas, check passport expiry dates, and if visas or vaccinations are required.

PACK SMARTLY Arrange items according to when they'll be needed. And rather than a mile-long packing checklist, compile a list of essentials (the ones that would turn a holiday upside down if forgotten).

ON THE GO ALLOW BUFFER TIME Fact: everything takes longer with kids. Never cut it fine and always allow an extra halfhour on top of your estimate to get from A to B. THE ART OF DISTRACTION Long plane rides and queues are often a forum for tantrums and ratty behaviour. Kids play

CHECK ME IN

for no extra cost

up due to boredom, but there are ways to make these periods fun. I always have a few games such as ‘I spy’ or ‘rhyming words’ in mind. Kids love to learn so I always explain things that are happening around us.

SNACK TIME Children are always hungry and will ask for food at the most inconvenient time. Make sure to pack lots of snacks within easy reach.

TAKE A BACKPACK It may not go with your outfit, but you’ll look more ridiculous chasing little fugitives around the terminal, bellowing down corridors. Leave the hands free by using a backpack.

TOUCHDOWN JETLAG Try to adapt to your new time zone as soon as you arrive. That means eating and sleeping at normal times.

EDUCATE Expose your kids to different places, people and activities so they are constantly learning and engaged.

HAVE FUN AND THINK POSITIVELY This is probably the most important tip. Accept that mishaps may occur – it's your reaction that will dictate the holiday's entire vibe. Make the most of your time, maintain a positive attitude and take things in your stride. It’s all part of the fun and the learning process. And the more practice you have travelling with kids, the better at it you’ll become, so start planning that next holiday!

Follow Meri on Instagram @huntersandtravellers

SELECT YOUR SEAT

and keep the family all together

IS YOUR CHILD UNDER 2?

Check the infant fee for your flight

x4

ONE ADULT = FOUR KIDS

One adult can travel with up to four kids

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

Kids puzzles

157

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Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 What colourfully printed shirts are often seen in movies. (8,5) 8 Large birds hunted to extinction in Tasmania. (9,4) 10 What type of quotes are meant to inspire? (13) 13 Which British colony declared independence in 1776? (3) 14 Calvin ‌ is a famous underwear designer. (5) 15 Slang interjection often used at the end of a sentence in Singapore and Malaysia. (3) 16 “Winning ‌ everything, but losing ‌ anything.â€? Peanuts creator, Charles M Schultz. (4) 17 Film title, The Englishman Who Went Up A ‌. But Came Down a Mountain (1995). (4) 19 “Caribbean Queenâ€? and “Suddenlyâ€?, Billy ‌ (1984). (5) 20 The early 20th century art movement that intended to offend. (7) 21 Australian native perennial grasses with edible seeds. (6,7)

1 What is a floating character at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade? (3,3,7) 2 On a compass, where does WSW point to? (4,5,4) 3 Willy Wonka sings “Pure ‌â€? in the 1971 film. (11) 4 Australian 2010 film starring Jackie Weaver? (6,7) 5 The instruments also known as syrinx or pan flute. (8) 6 What suffix is used to refer to any distinctive doctrine, theory, or practice? (3) 7 What entertainment boxes began appearing in Australian living rooms in 1956? (3) 9 What is Ultraviolet A light known as? (3) 11 Types of English verbs include finite and‌ (3-6) 12 What colourful lights were popular in the 1970s? (4,5) 18 Jessica Mauboy was runner up in Australian ‌ 2006. (4)

159

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

(

,

1

EASY

Puzzles

QUICK QUIZ Test your knowledge of the Northern Territory's Top End 9. The popular stalls Yati's and Mary's at Darwin's weekly Parap Village Markets are best known for what Asian soup?

10. The NT Government’s Million Dollar Fish competition, which runs from October to February each year, involves the recreational fishing of what species?

11. What is the collective name for the Melville and Bathurst Islands, found north of Darwin?

12. Which of the following is not a species of bird native to the Top End? A) Rainbow pitta B) Yellow-rumped mannikin C) Crimson-headed whistling dove 13. What was the name of the devastating cyclone that hit Darwin on 25 December 1974?

14. What was the coldest temperature ever recorded in Darwin?

A) 7.9°C B) 10.4°C C) 15.6°C

6

10

9

SOLUTIONS

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_Charles Darwin 2_A) Stella 3_Sturt's Desert Rose 4_NT News 5_The Bombing of Darwin/Battle of Darwin 6_Nitmiluk Gorge 7_Beer cans and cartons 8_Kakadu National Park 9_Laksa 10_Barramundi 11_The Tiwi Islands 12_C) Crimson-headed whistling dove 13_Cyclone Tracy 14_B) 10.4°C, in July 1942

160

1. Darwin is named in honour of which famous scientist?

2. Which of the following is not a legendary NT croc?

A) Stella B) Chopper C) Sweetheart 3. What is the floral emblem of the Northern Territory?

4. Which Top End news outlet is famous for quirky headlines such as â&#x20AC;&#x153;They stole my dog while I was on the bogâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Frog struck down by lightningâ&#x20AC;??

5. What significant historical event took place in Darwin on 19 February 1942?

6. Katherine Gorge has reverted to its traditional Jawoyn name of what?

7. A long-running annual regatta, held on Darwinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mindil Beach this month, features boats made with what materials?

8. Covering 20,000 square kilometres, which NT National Park comes in as Australia's largest?

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WITH OVER 140 STORES NATIONALLY, SANITY IS YOUR LEADING RETAILER OF MOVIES, TV SHOWS, BLU-RAY, GAMES, MUSIC, BOOKS, POP VINYL AND OFFICIAL MERCHANDISE

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Available on 787 seatback screens I JULY 2018 I Entertainment

Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE!

© 2017 CTMG, Inc. © 2018 Entertainment One.

$10

AUD Blockbuster movies TV comedy and drama Kids’ favourites Hit music Games

© 2017 Warner Brothers.

ONLY

More kids’ content these school holidays

163

© 2018 Marvel.

© 2017 Universal City Studio, LLC.

© 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available.

PRE-PURCHASE AND SAVE Purchase inflight entertainment when you book your flight and save!

General

Parental guidance recommended

Recommended for mature audiences

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

Restricted to 18 and over

Flying overseas for the holidays?

We’ve got something to keep everyone entertained.

• 200+ hours of new entertainment • Latest blockbuster films • TV shows for the whole family • Pre-purchase and save!

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In-flight entertainment is available on selected long haul international flights. It is included in business class fares and can be added for a fee to all other fare types.

Check Jetstar.com for more information.

Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

Available on 787 seatback screens I MOVIES & TV I Entertainment

Movies NEW RELEASES

FAMILY FAVOURITES

©2018 Marvel.

CLASSIC COLLECTION

© 2016 Disney Enterprises Inc.

© 1991 MGM.

Black Panther

Action

Moana

Animation

Thelma & Louise

Drama

The Post

Drama

Mary and the Witch’s Flower

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Touring the land of nod The need to snooze has struck Catherine Best in some exotic places

over the Grand Canyon in a helicopter. It was the hypnotic whump, whump of the rotor blades that did it, and all that glare from the Arizona sun (hitting the Strip in Las Vegas the night before didn’t help).

It’s not my fault. This affliction is hereditary.

My husband delights in regaling all who will listen about a daytrip to Victoria’s spa country with my dad and grandma some years ago. Driving home, the conversation dead, my husband turned to find three generations

my chin was locked in a game of ping-pong with my chest of Bests catching flies – heads back, mouths agape, eyes firmly shut.

Suffice to say, I’ll never be sleepless in Seattle … or anywhere else. Except, of course, at 37,000 feet.

For while I’m liable to nod off anywhere when it’s least appropriate, decent shut-eye on a long-haul flight eludes me. No amount of travel-pillow hacks and plane-seat contortionism

will set me sleeping for long. I’m the passenger who stumbles through arrivals looking like an extra from The Walking Dead. I’ll slink into a cab and be sucked into the bloodstream of a foreign city. All those intoxicating new sights, sounds and smells to take in. The thrilling anticipation of it all. But I’m snoring before the taxi has left the airport.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

168

I ONCE FELL asleep on the back of a motorbike in Vietnam. We were weaving up a potholed mountain road to Ba Ho Waterfalls near Nha Trang and I dozed off, arms latched around the rider’s wiry frame like he was a human body pillow. I’m not proud of it. Especially in a country with an annual road toll upwards of 8000 people. But I have an uncanny propensity for falling asleep on anything that moves.

Trains, boats, cars, tuktuks – anything in motion really. Even a camel has me suppressing a yawn – all that gangly, rhythmic movement. I’ve missed spectacular views on railways through the European Alps because my chin was locked in a game of ping-pong with my chest. I’ve nodded off cruising down the Rhine, bouncing around in the back of a ute in Thailand, and on a rickety old bus in India – seated in front of a passenger that was a goat.

On Victoria’s Great Ocean Road, I consistently fall into a narcoleptic stupor. Even a gondola ride requires a kind of Kubrickian intervention involving eye clamps of A Clockwork Orange infamy to keep me from dribbling on my collar.

My most disgraceful moment of slumbering shame came while soaring

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