Jetstar December 2017 Magazine

jetstar MAGAZINE

DECEMBER 2017

MAGAZINE

SYDNEY I GOLD COAST I COROMANDEL I TOKYO I HUNTER VALLEY

HAWAII

WILD ABOUT WAIKIKI WHY WE’LL NEVER STOP LOVING HAWAII’S HOLIDAY HOTSPOT

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ON THE COVER: Waikiki, Hawaii PHOTOGRAPHY: Luke Fandrich

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contents DECEMBER 2017

EXPERIENCE

14

8 I WHAT’S ON 10 I NEWS 14 I MY PLACE Leanne Kitchen’s guide to Ho Chi Minh City

Bikes and beans: the best cycle cafés

18 I HOW-TO Master the perfect day at the beach

20 I IMBIBE Punch is a pretty party pleaser

22 I FOOD TREND Retro food is all the rage

25 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE There’s so much to do in a day in Hobart

28 I STYLE Up the style stakes with bikinis and boardies

24 hours in Hobart

56 I PHOTO ESSAY Hawaii’s iconic Waikiki

16 I THE SHORTLIST

92

EXPLORE

65-84 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Sydney’s best eats, neighbourhoods to watch and the Harbour City’s Indigenous heart

86 I CREATIVE COOL There’s more to the Glitter City than beaches and bars.

Meet the creatives transforming the Gold Coast

92 I THE CALL OF THE COROMANDEL Fall in love with laidback coastal towns, spectacular beaches and delicious food

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100 I TOKYO DREAMING The Aussie chefs setting their sights on Japan

107 I HUNTER HAPPY Wine, dine and relax in NSW’s Hunter Valley

160 I BACKPAGE Tales from row 57

30 I HEALTH Flow yoga will have you all aglow

33 I RECIPE How do you like your pav?

36 I WORK AND PLAY The businesses giving back

126 I Jetstar news

39 I GIFT GUIDE

134 I Where we fly

Great gift ideas for all ages

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ESSENTIALS

52 I THE YEAR THAT WAS The travel trends we loved (and hated)

141 I Games and puzzles 147 I Entertainment guide

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Jetstar Car Hire Drive to discover

Jetstar car hire - make discovery easy with; · A huge range of vehicles to suit every budget · Great deals available each week at jetstar.com · Free cancellation

Book now at jetstar.com

For full inclusions and terms and conditions on car rental please refer to jetstar.com. Jetstar Car Rental is offered by Car Trawler and Jetstar itself does not offer car rental directly. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

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Welcome I GROUP CEO

EDITORIAL For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Ingrid Nason Editor Justine Costigan Deputy Editor Krysia Bonkowski Subeditors Leanne Tolra and Diana Baxter Art Director Robert Bertagni Designer Natalie LaChina Picture Editor Janet Gomes

No better time to take a break

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels JETSTAR MAGAZINE

is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia +61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved.

Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015.

Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

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December brings the perfect opportunity to spend time with family and loved ones

T

hanks for choosing to fly with us today – it’s great to have you on board.

December brings the perfect opportunity to spend time with family and loved ones, with many choosing to take a break and travel.

This is one of the most popular times of year to fly, and over the Christmas period we’re expecting to carry more than two million passengers across our network of 85 destinations.

This month marks another milestone for Jetstar, with

two new exciting destinations growing our network in Asia.

From Melbourne, we will launch two weekly flights to Zhengzhou in China, and from Tokyo we’ll start new flights to Miyazaki in Japan.

Across our network, we have more flights over the Christmas holidays to our most popular destinations. Whether it’s a beach break in Byron Bay, a trip to picturesque New Zealand or an adventure through Asia, I hope you enjoy your wellearned getaway with friends and family. Our team is committed to making this a memorable experience from the moment you book on Jetstar.com until you pick up your bags at your destination.

Stay tuned for more updates with Jetstar in the New Year, and in the meantime, best wishes for a safe and happy holiday season.

5

Gareth Evans Jetstar Group CEO

Dive into Sydney’s food scene, page 75

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Hip and happening Hobart The new MACq 01 Hotel on Hobart’s waterfront provides an enviable view over the harbour. Read more about the best things to do in Tasmania’s capital on page 25.

PHOTO TOURISM TASMANIA

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LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

December

Say goodbye to 2017 in style

Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your must-do list this month

Adelaide Motorsport Festival

7-10 December Adelaide, South Australia

Moonlight Cinema Throughout summer from December Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth

Bring a picnic, a rug, friends and family, and stretch out under the night sky to see new season’s films and classics of the silver screen.

Join the rev-heads as hundreds of wheels, including Formula One cars, rally vehicles and classic heritage rides, gather in Adelaide for a weekend of racing and displays. adelaidemotorsportfestival. com.au

moonlight.com.au

8

Let’s Go Build

Woodford Folk Festival

Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race

Fred Williams – 1974

This family-friendly annual festival of local and international music, dance, art and creativity includes a children’s program, 35 performance venues and more than 2000 artists gathering in the forests of south-east Queensland. woodfordfolkfestival.com

Witness the spectacular line-up of elite racing yachts as they set sail from Sydney Harbour on Boxing Day bound for Tasmania’s capital on one of the most gruelling ocean routes in the world. rolexsydneyhobart.com

The work of renowned Australian artist Fred Williams features in a new exhibition at the TarraWarra Museum of Art. Focused exclusively on works created in 1974, the show highlights Williams’ move to a new method of painting. twma.com.au

27 December to 1 January Woodford, Queensland

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26 December to 1 January Sydney Harbour, NSW to Hobart, Tasmania

2 December to 11 February Yarra Valley, Victoria

See replicas of some of the world’s most iconic landmarks, including the Taj Mahal, the Great Wall of China and the Arc de Triomphe, all built from LEGO bricks (and have a go creating your own masterpiece) at Te Papa’s family-friendly summer exhibition. tepapa.nz/letsgo

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, BRITTANY DANIEC

9 December to 11 February Te Papa, Wellington, New Zealand

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

PHUKET

Phuket Kings Cup Regatta

It’s a great month to…

2-9 December Phuket, Thailand

This highlight of the Asian yachting calendar attracts keelboats and ocean-going catamaran teams from around the world, with beach parties and events throughout. kingscup.com

SIGN up little ones to a local Nippers surf life saving program. They’ll learn about swim safety and make lots of new friends this summer. sls.com.au

Taste of Tasmania 28 December to 3 January Hobart, Tasmania Tasmania’s vibrant food, wine and beer scene will be on display at more than 70 popup stalls on Hobart’s scenic waterfront during this popular annual festival. thetasteoftasmania.com.au

Manjimup Cherry Harmony Festival 8-9 December Manjimup, Western Australia

Enjoy special events, market stalls and local produce at this cheery regional festival devoted to the cherry. cherryfestival.com.au

IMMERSE

Mudtopia Festival 1-3 December Rotorua, New Zealand

You can’t avoid getting dirty at Rotorua’s new Mudtopia Festival – but that’s part of the fun.

The three-day event includes muddy activities such as mud obstacle courses and play pits, along with great live acts, pampering day spas and street food.

yourself in art as Mapping Melbourne returns from 1-17 December, with free and ticketed events around the city. multiculturalarts. com.au

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CELEBRATE Australia’s talented musos at nationwide gigs happening on 7 December for the National Live Music Awards. nlmas.com.au

mudtopia.com

Brisbane International 31 December to 7 January, 2018 Brisbane, Queensland

Watch some of the world’s best players thrash it out on the courts at Queensland’s premier tennis competition.

In between games enjoy food stalls, live music and events at The Racquet Club festival hub. brisbaneinternational.com.au

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Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

Q&A

Patricia Schultz

INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

What qualified a place to make the list?

Welcome

10

Christmas is the perfect time to reflect on the past year, and look forward to the year ahead.

It’s also a time when millions of people choose to take a holiday, and this Christmas we have more flights to some of our top holiday destinations.

Sydney is a great city to visit over summer, with beaches just a stone's throw from the city and vibrant emerging suburbs to explore. Find out more from page 66.

The Gold Coast continues to be one of our most popular destinations yearround. Read about some of the people behind the city’s growing creative scene on page 86. And for those looking for a culinary experience, see page 107 for insights into the famous food and wine of the Hunter Valley in NSW. If a trip overseas is calling, in this edition you can read about Australian restaurants taking on Tokyo, or take some inspiration from our amazing photo essay of Hawaii's iconic Waikiki.

I hope you enjoy your trip with us, and have a safe and happy end to 2017.

Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

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Patricia Schultz is the welltravelled author of The New York Times bestseller and global travel bible 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. We caught up with Patricia on a recent trip to our side of the world to ask about her life as a professional globetrotter.

How did you become a professional traveller?

The transition from selfproclaimed adventurer to professional travel writer was gradual and unexpected: I was asked to cover an interview assignment for a friend, followed by a guidebook project that fell in my lap out of the blue – in retrospect those first attempts came about thanks to serendipity and beginner's luck. And the rest is history. That first decade was not an easy one, but the experience – both challenging and exciting – was invaluable.

Was is difficult to narrow your choice down to 1000?

Creating the list gave me a lot less angst once I accepted that the thousand were pulled from my own personal experiences, and not meant to be presented as the only places in the world worth seeing. Knowing I could never please everyone, I attempted instead to create a selection that felt right to me. But don't get me wrong: an enormous amount of research and care – eight years' worth – went into putting this behemoth together! It helped that I loved what I was doing.

There was no magic fool-proof formula. Any place that stood out for its specialness, beauty and integrity – those "wow" moments like Hong Kong's Victoria Peak or Sydney's exhilarating Bridge Climb – as well as things less extraordinary perhaps but still supremely memorable and enjoyable. I wanted the book to be a veritable mix of places both world famous and unsung.

How do you get to know a destination?

I have always been a huge fan of walking tours. I have had some incredible guides – they can make all the difference.

What is the greatest benefit of travel?

Travel opens up your head and widens your horizons. It not only enhances your understanding of the world, it makes you more appreciative of home and what that means to you. There is no down side to travel ... It makes us better people.

What destination has surprised you the most?

As a born and bred New Yorker, all things Asia fascinate me.

The hutongs of Beijing, the night markets of Taipei, Kyoto's Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, sailing up the Irrawaddy in Myanmar. Every moment is a vibrant reminder that I am a visitor in a foreign land where everything – language, food, architecture – is a thrilling departure from the familiar.

What destination is at the top of your wish list?

New Zealand. I know, I know – it may be close by and unremarkable for you. But for American travellers it is on the other side of the globe. On the other hand, I can't return often enough to Australia, but I still haven't made it to Tasmania!

1,000 Places to See Before You Die, USD$23.95, Workman Publishing.

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Experience I NEWS

ON NOW

ARMCHAIR ADVENTURES

Travel with your tastebuds

Whet your appetite for adventure with new foodie destination reads. Take a gastronomic road trip around the Apple Isle with Flavours of Tasmania, dip into a cultural melting pot with Tony Tan’s Hong Kong Food City, or dine Down Under with some of the nation’s best chefs in The Great Australian Cookbook.

The Great Australian Cookbook, $50, Echo Publishing Hong Kong Food City, $49.99, Murdoch Books Flavours of Tasmania, $80, Smudge Publishing

Feeling hungry?

My favourite things –

AUSTRALIAN MUSIC VAULT This month the Arts Centre Melbourne throws open the doors to the Australian Music Vault, the new home of the ARIA hall of fame. The permanent exhibition space will celebrate the iconic figures, pivotal moments and behindthe-scenes players of the homegrown music industry. From archival images and footage to rock'n'roll relics including Angus Young’s suit and Kylie Minogue’s gold hotpants, it’s a musical jaunt down memory lane drawing from the Centre's 600,000-piece strong Performing Arts Collection.

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australianmusicvault.com.au

Get tramping

TRAVEL TREND

Kickstart your Kiwi adventure

With summer finally here, New Zealand launches into a season of adventure. Wildwire Wanaka has unveiled the world’s highest via ferrata waterfall climb, the Lord of the Rungs – a 450m, seven-hour scramble up Twin Falls. The New Zealand government has also revealed a new network of 19 short/day walks to complement the famed multi-day Great Walks. And the New Zealand Cycle Trail continues to improve on its existing 2,500km network, with the ongoing extension of the Hauraki Rail Trail, and updates to favourites such as the Waikato River Trail.

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Experience I NEWS

JUST OPENED

THREE OF A KIND

We all scream for ... ice cream

Beat the heat at these delectable ice cream parlours Pidapipó

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Giapo

1

The gelato from Carlton’s Pidapipó quickly earned the Melbourne venue a devoted following, and a second venue in Windsor.

Founder Lisa Valmorbida attended gelato university in Italy and brought home the secret to the delectable dessert, freshly churned each day with seasonal ingredients. pidapipo.com.au

Yum!

Giapo Grazioli’s behindthe-scenes gastronomic wizardry at his Auckland parlour has resulted in surprises such as Yorkshire pudding cones and hot-chip garnishes.

To sample Giapo’s most recent inventions, pull up a seat at the Chef’s Table for a sweet degustation. giapo.com

Mister Fitz

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From the sugar-fuelled folk behind Donut Time, retro ice-cream parlour Mister Fitz specialises in indulgent ice-cream sandwiches. The original branches in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley and South Bank have been joined by two more neondrenched locations in Brisbane and Sydney. misterfitz.com.au

Lakeside luxe

The edgy QT hotel brand stakes its claim in the Southern Alps with the official opening of QT Queenstown. Following the soft launch of onsite venues Reds Bar and Bizarre this winter, 69 boutique rooms and suites with views of Lake Wakatipu are now ready to start receiving the summer holiday crowds. qthotelsandresorts.com

WE’RE FOLLOWING

iliphilly FOLLOW: @ch

Keep up to date with @chiliphilly on Instagram

Knitty gritty Australian artist Phil Ferguson – aka Chili Philly – is making the world a happier place, one hat at a time.

His crocheted food hats and knitted outfits (and dance moves) have won him more than 100,000 followers on Instagram, and counting. chiliphilly.com

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HUNGRY IN HO CHI MINH CITY A food writer takes on Vietnam’s culinary and cultural charms WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

F 14

ood writer Leanne Kitchen spent three weeks in Ho Chi Minh City researching her new book, Ho Chi Minh City in 12 Dishes. Vietnam’s dynamic southern city has had an enduring appeal for Leanne. “The people are charming, the food is incredible, the architecture is wonderful, and the energy on the streets is addictive,” she says.

The book is the second in Leanne’s 12 Dishes series and follows the first about Shanghai. It charts Ho Chi Minh City’s iconic dishes, including pho, banh mi and barbecue. It’s a local guide book that puts your stomach first, but it also includes advice for buying foodie gifts, drinking coffee and visiting markets and bars.

For first-time visitors to Saigon, as it’s still known by locals, Leanne suggests staying central and walking around as much as you can to soak up the street life. “Stray into the many hems (laneways), as it’s down these you’ll find hidden food treasures, a relaxed local feel and respite from frenetic streets,” she says.

Leanne has a long-standing affection for the Saigonese and their city, particularly the mix of streetscapes. “I love taking in the layers of architectural styles from a street vantage; you see everything from French colonial to art deco to mid-20th-century gems.”

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Experience I MY PLACE

CA PHE VY 277E Le Thanh Ton, District 1 This 24-hour café is a coffee mecca and stocks beans from all over the country. The coffee menu is arranged from mildest brews to the strongest and no one speaks English, so take a punt and point. Seats are low and tightly packed. Grab prime position facing the pavement and watch the world float by.

This is the banh mi of your wildest, protein-packed dreams

PHOTOGRAPHY FLICKR / GARRET ZIEGLER, PASTEUR STREET BREWING

PASTEUR STREET BREWING COMPANY

BANH MI HUYNH HOA

144 Pasteur, District 1 pasteurstreet.com Hydration is key to survival in the tropics and when my liquid balance needs adjusting, I head here. I adore good beer and these guys brew the best in the city. You can get their beers, such as the fabulous Jasmine India Pale Ale, the Cyclo Imperial Coffee Stout and Passionfruit Wheat Ale, at various outlets around the city, but their tucked-away bar is a cool place to chill out.

26 Le Thi Rieng, District 1 From the time this hole-inthe-wall opens at 3pm, it’s a frenzy of warming baguettes, filling them, then wrapping the banh mi to go. It famously uses eight different cold cuts and, when you order, you indicate that you want The Lot by making a sweeping gesture in the direction of their prodigious sliced-meat display. This is the banh mi of your wildest, protein-packed dreams, but be prepared to queue for it.

INDEPENDENCE PALACE

BANH XEO

135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, District 1 This was Southern Vietnam’s White House until 1975, when the northern forces smashed through the front gates and made history. It was designed by celebrated local architect Ngo Viet Thu in the ’60s and what I find incredible are its completely frozen-in-time interiors. The southern war offensive was run from a rabbit warren of rooms and corridors in the basement and they’re still pretty much as they were left, complete with old maps and vintage communications gear.

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46A Dinh Cong Trang, District 1 I really, really love banh xeo – a large, crisp pancake made using a turmericflavoured, coconut-milkbased batter. It’s cooked scattered with mung beans, prawns, pork and sprouts and to eat it, you tear pieces off, wrap them in lettuce leaves with plenty of fresh herbs and dip them in nuoc cham (a classic sauce flavoured with lime juice, chilli and palm sugar). This place is firmly on all tourist radars.

Independence Palace. LEFT: Banh xeo fresh from the frying pan.

BELOW: Pasteur Street Brewing.

MINH HUONG EMBROIDERY 85 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1 I have a thing for textiles, and this old-world atelier is fantastic. Unhappily though, it’s the last of its kind. The charming, English-speaking owner Miriam employs ladies who hand-embroider fine linen tablecloths and napkins with gorgeous Oriental designs.

They’re the sort of thing you’d hand down to your children.

BIRD CAFE Tan Dao park, cnr of Cach Mang Thang Tam and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 I like to come here early on a weekend morning. It occupies a corner of Tan Dao park, the city’s expansive green lung,

15 and local men bring their caged birds, hang them high on special racks, sit, admire them, exchange caged-bird notes, and drink copious amounts of coffee.

MAI LAM 132-134 Dong Khoi mailam.com.vn When I want to squander my child’s inheritance I shop here – Australian-Vietnamese Mai Lam’s clothes are gorgeous. Her schtick is to reimagine iconic items such as the flak jacket and the ao dai (a traditional silk tunic) in luxurious fabrics, then embellish them with hand embroidery and beading. The results are stylish, yet edgy.

Travel info Ho Chi Minh City in 12 Dishes: How to eat like you live there by Leanne Kitchen and Antony Suvalka, RRP $24.99 redporkpress.com

Jetstar has great low fares to Ho Chi Minh City from Melbourne and Sydney.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

14/11/2017 1:38 PM

Experience I THE SHORTLIST

5

2

1

OF THE BEST

Cycle cafés 16

From lycra-clad weekend warriors to casual cruisers, here’s where blends meet wheels

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1. BICYCLE JUNCTION

4

Te Aro, Wellington, New Zealand bicyclejunction.co.nz Wellington’s Bicycle Junction in the heart of Te Aro’s laneways has taken a central role in connecting the local cycling community and celebrating cycling culture. Along with selling urban and electric bikes parts and accessories, they build, sell and fix frames in the workshop and a coffee bar provides caffeine and sustenance pre- and post-ride.

2. RAPHA CLUBHOUSE

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32 Guildford Lane, Melbourne rapha.cc/melbourne Fuel up before roll-out with a macchiato from the La Marzocco espresso machine and a pastry at Rapha’s laneway community hub in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD. The Guildford Lane space is

tastefully adorned with historic posters, framed jerseys and Clubhouse merchandise. It is open to club members and the public.

3. WORKSHOP ESPRESSO Wembley, Perth, WA wembleycycles.com The perfect mid-week pit stop, owners John Carney and Felicity Palumbo have poured all their passion into this Perth cycle-haven and it’s reflected in the attitude of every staffer, coffee and bicycle spoke. Group rides leave for Fremantle at 6am every Wednesday and return for a Five Senses coffee and refuel.

For a weekend pep up, head to Get Ya Fix in the CBD.

4. TOWN BIKE PITSTOP 156 Abercrombie Street, Redfern, Sydney townbikepitstop.com.au Sydneysiders John Azzi and Grahame Rowe once houseshared in Amsterdam – the

spiritual home of urban cycling – and while there they became committed to galvanising Dutch cycling culture in Australia. Armed with a café, communal tools, mechanics and bikes for hire, they are inspiring more than just an amenable commute for everybody.

Once "the rough end of town,” says John, “Now you can get a bike and caffeine fix here.”

5. THE VELO PRECINCT Victoria Park Grandstand, Fullarton Road, Adelaide theveloprecinct.com.au After six Olympic Games and 17 Tours de France, Adelaide’s Stuart O’Grady knows a bit about bikes.

He’s also a co-owner of Velo, with its two cafés – Vélo Cafe and Spokey Dokey for kids – in front of a cycle track under the heritage-listed Victoria Park grandstand.

PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP ESPRESSO, TOWN BIKE PITSTOP, THE VELO PRECINCT

WORDS TOM POUNTNEY

14/11/2017 1:39 PM

*Yo sub tim Poi

SAVI84

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DESIGN YOUR DRIVE WITH AVIS

Close of business doesn’t have to mean end of play these holidays. Rent with Avis in Australia to earn four Qantas Points for every AU$1 spent on time and kilometre charges or earn 700 points per rental when travelling overseas.* Design your drive at the Avis counter.

*You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn points. Membership number must be quoted when booking to earn points. Membership and points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer program terms and conditions available at Qantas.com/terms. A joining fee may apply. Four Qantas Points will be earned per AU$1 value on time and kilometre charges within Australia, excluding GST, insurance, package tour, government, travel industry, some corporate rates and miscellaneous charges. 700 Qantas Points are earned per rental overseas. For more information about earning points with Avis visit Qantas.com/au/en/book-a-trip/cars.html.

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Experience I HOW-TO

BEACH There’s a few things you need to know before hitting the beach this summer WORDS CHRISTINE RETSCHLAG

of the current, and then diagonally back to shore with the breaking waves.

If you get pulled further out to sea, try to save your energy and attract attention. Lifesavers are on patrol and will come to your rescue. It’s not smart to swim at an unpatrolled beach.

Swim safety

Sun safety

See those yellow and red flags in the sand near the surf club? They are not there to show you the direction the wind’s blowing. Swim between these flags and lifesavers, who have already determined this is the safest patch of water, can see you and will be looking out for you. Swim outside of the flags, and you could be in a world of pain.

Bring back the Coppertone kid! Back in the ’80s, Aussies were inundated with sun safety advertising, which ensured we slipped, slopped and slapped.

But, like the old family Kingswood, this message may be fading. Wear a hat, a high factor sunscreen, and a loose cotton shirt.

Your older self will thank you.

Swim tips

Aussies like to wear very little at the beach, and that’s perfectly fine, except for one thing. Sunburn.

The best protection from the harsh Australian sun is a shirt. And in the water, a rashie. Consider buying one of those deliberately “ugly” Christmas rashies through the Cancer Council for a laugh.

Rips. Not those in your cut-off denim shorts.

The ones in the water.

They are dangerous but if you do happen to get caught in one, don’t panic. Instinct might tell you to fight the rip but it will just tire you out.

Stay calm, swim parallel to the beach, to get out

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What to wear

Dont forget...

ILLUSTRATION STUART HOLMES

18

e don’t want to dump a load of sand on your summer holiday, but there are some unwritten rules about navigating an Australian beach. Follow these, and everything will go swimmingly.

The sun is strongest when it’s high in the sky (between 10am and 4pm) so plan your beach trips for the early morning and late afternoon to minimise your exposure.

15/11/2017 4:07 PM

Experience I HOW-TO

Rude nudes?

As tempting as it may be to get your kit off, consider the two previous points. If sunburn on your extremities isn’t enough to deter you, think about the children. Or the fact it’s summer, and your boss is probably on the same beach. There are plenty of designated nude beaches along the Australian coastline.

Save the surprises for them and remember the sunscreen.

Sand and smoke etiquette This is a bit of a nobrainer, but don’t throw sand. Ever. And if you are shaking out your beach towel, move away from other people. Lots of Aussie beaches are non-smoking, so maybe worth checking the signs before settling in?

How’s the serenity?

19

Finding your spot

Don’t forget to slip, slop, slap

There’s a whole big beach here, people. You don’t need to sit on top of each other. Be considerate of others, particularly if erecting a beach umbrella.

Primping and preening

Watch out for rips!

18-19_EXPERIENCE_HOW TO.indd 19

Post Instagram and Facebook selfies as much as you like. But you know what’s even more fun?

Simply sitting on a beach, smelling that fresh salt air and enjoying the breeze, before plunging into that bubbling, beautiful ocean.

14/11/2017 1:40 PM

Experience I IMBIBE

PACKING A SUMMER ENTERTAINING IS A BREEZE WITH A BOOZY PUNCH WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

Fruity fun 20

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a fruity punch is a sure crowd pleaser These early communal punch bowls combined whatever distilled liquor was to hand – such as Caribbean rum, French brandy or the South East Asian spirit arrack – with sugar cane, citrus fruits and spices gathered from across the colonies.

Sailors transported the practice back home to England and on to Europe and America, and so the humble punch entered the cultural canon. Long, hot evenings are the perfect

excuse to haul out your nanna’s punch bowl, collect some friends and enjoy summer sipping.

Recently minted Singapore bar and bistro Crackerjack, from the team behind legendary bar 28 HongKong Street and Proof & Company Spirits, have just the answer for Singapore’s sticky weather.

Their Bengal Lancers Punch (recipe right) packs a wallop. The Crackerjack team recommend using one large block of ice instead of cubes, which will melt too quickly and dilute the punch. Just add some slices of orange or your favourite fruit.

INGREDIENTS • 360ml pinot noir • 120ml Jamaican rum (Crackerjack use Plantation Single Island 2002) • 90ml Pierre Ferrand • Dry curacao • 90ml fresh lime juice • 90ml fresh orange juice • 90ml fresh pineapple juice • 180ml simple syrup (two parts sugar dissolved into one part water, cooled) • 270ml prosecco • 1 can of soda water • Orange slices for garnish

METHOD • Add all the ingredients except the soda water and orange to a punch bowl with a large block of ice • Top up with the soda water and garnish with orange slices

PHOTOGRAPHY CRACKERJACK

W

ith the end of year fast approaching, the upward climb of the mercury is matched only by the speed with which social calendars fill. If you get stuck with entertaining duties, a fruity punch is a sure crowd pleaser (and will save you from having to play bartender).

Invented by thirsty employees of the East India Company in the 17th century, the name ‘punch’ is believed to have come from the Sanskrit word for five, pancha, referring to the five core ingredients – spirit, sugar, citrus, water, and spices.

BENGAL LANCERS PUNCH

14/11/2017 1:40 PM

Slip, slop,

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For more information about earning Qantas Points with Budget visit Qantas.com/cars.

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14/11/2017 1:40 PM

Experience I RETRO FOOD

Nostalgic dining ’Tis the season to go retro WORDS LARISSA DUBECKI

D

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Mum’s favourite Tastes of yesterday

Yep, cheesy good times are back, out and proud For Joe Jones, co-owner of Melbourne newcomer Mayfair, an elegant supper club steeped in old-fashioned virtues (including a truffled cheese toastie, scrambled eggs served only post-11pm and a mean martini), nostalgic food simply means something effortlessly pleasant. “It’s not meant to be complicated, it’s meant to be enjoyable,” Joe says.

And at Brisbane’s urbane Nickel Kitchen & Bar, chef Gordon MacGregor serves a bombe Alaska.

Yes, the classic ice-cream and cake dessert, created circa 1867. Playing off the surroundings, Gordon serves it on a black plate that spins on a gramophone as the waiter pipes the meringue tableside. “Naturally enough, the dish is called One Last Song,” Gordon says. “For us it’s about relighting that fire to remind people what dining out used to be.”

BRISBANE Nickel Kitchen & Bar 757 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley nickelkitchenbar.com.au Fine dining amid Gatsbyesque glamour might include ham hock and split-pea ballotine, and bombe Alaska served á la gramophone.

MELBOURNE Mayfair 45 Collins Street, Melbourne mayfairrestaurant.com.au This smooth yesteryear brasserie and late-night supper club comes complete with caviar service and omelette with truffled gravy.

SYDNEY Hubert Basement, 15 Bligh Street, Sydney restauranthubert.com One of the hottest dining tickets in Sydney revels in the old-fashioned virtues of chicken fricassee, pommes Anna and mousse au chocolate.

AUCKLAND Federal Delicatessen 86 Federal Street, Auckland thefed.co.nz Kiwi superchef Al Brown dips his lid to the deli hits of yesteryear, with a classic New York strip steak with dill butter and spit-roasted chook with gravy.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES, KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

22

ecember is not the month for food fashion. Cuttingedge gastronomy?

Bah humbug. Come Christmas, every chef puts away their microherbs and unashamedly shares their mum’s best recipe for pineapple-glazed baked ham.

During this annual food amnesty, old-fashioned food values come back into play. Jaded palates that have spent the past 11 months speed dating the latest concepts in Tex-Mex-Chinese fusion can find comfort in the traditional Aussie Christmas spread, a time capsule from the pages of the Australian Women’s Weekly circa 1973.

But this year, retro has gone mainstream. Nostalgic classics have broken out en masse from the home kitchen to cement their place on the restaurant menu.

Take the classic prawn cocktail – iceberg lettuce and Marie Rose sauce – preferably served in a parfait glass. It’s back. So is chocolate mousse, that disco-era king of the dinner party. At the café level, the toastie is royalty too, closely followed by the jaffle, while the re-imagined sausage roll is bar food du jour. The retro-is-nouveau trend has even stretched to include the fondue. Yep, cheesy good times are back, out and proud.

You don’t have to be a shrink to see why we’re stepping back to a kinder, gentler era. Science has proven that taste and smell form some of our earliest and most powerful memories. In troubled times, look no further than a good roast chook to recalibrate the psyche.

14/11/2017 1:41 PM

Experience I RETRO FOOD

s ite

23

Retro re-run

Old-school classics back on the menu include (clockwise from top left) bombe Alaska, glazed ham, toasties, prawn cocktail, chocolate mousse, rum baba, roast chook, steak tartare and (centre) jaffles.

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14/11/2017 1:41 PM

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14/11/2017 1:41 PM

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

HOBART

24 HOURS IN

HOBART

MID-MORNING

Discover farm-to-fork dining and bleeding-edge art in this historical pocket-rocket of a capital WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, TOURISM TASMANIA, MONA, SOPHIE SULLIVAN PHOTOS, ROB BURNETT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Mona from the water, Hobart’s historic waterfront, on the plate at Pigeon Hole café, fresh from the Farm Gate Markets.

No Hobart sojourn is complete without hitching a ride on the Mona Roma ferry from Hobart’s waterfront to Mona (the Museum of Old and New Art). Until April next year, the maverick museum is hosting The Museum of Everything, with 2000 artworks drawn from the world of undiscovered and unclassifiable artists from the 19th to 21st centuries. mona.net.au

25

EARLY MORNING Hobart’s markets deliver the goods. If in town on Saturday, start your day among 300plus stalls at Salamanca Market along Salamanca Place. On Sundays, follow locals clutching canvas totes to Farm Gate Markets, where you can sample the season’s best – from plump berries to fresh-baked bread. farmgatemarket.com.au

LUNCH Back on the waterfront, grab a cheap and cheerful seafood lunch at the floating pontoons at historic Constitution Dock. No matter the weather, you’ll find a crowd tucking into oysters, scallops and fish ‘n’ chips next to bobbing fishing boats. Keep an eye out for Sammy the seal, who is known to pop up in search of leftover fish.

BREAKFAST

From paddock to plate

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In cosy West Hobart nook The Pigeon Hole, the owners of Weston Farm show off produce fresh from their fields and the best in local ingredients. Fuel up with simple yet sophisticated plates such as a potato and smoked-eel rosti with greens, or ‘green eggs and ham’ with house-made salsa verde. pigeonholecafe.com.au

14/11/2017 4:59 PM

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

AFTERNOON Duck between Salamanca Place’s grand Georgian buildings and climb Kelly’s Steps to Battery Point, where vintage stores, cafés and barbershops occupy colonial mansions and workers’ cottages. Treat yourself to a Tassie craft beer at Preachers, a popular watering hole in a heritage-listed cottage boasting a large astro-turfed beer garden, complete with a heated metro bus.

Settle in for a nightcap

26

DRINKS

DINNER

STAY

Book ahead – the 20 seats at Templo are some of Hobart’s hottest. Each evening, a menu of Italian-inspired share plates is scrawled on the blackboard with a compact yet creative wine list. The venue, like its food, is approachable and comforting – earning it a Chef’s Hat in this year’s Good Food Guide. templo.com.au

Hobart has no shortage of waterfront real estate, but the city’s slickest new hotel, the MACq 01, can claim some of the best. With 114 meticulously designed rooms stretching along Hobart’s Old Wharf, you’ll awaken to views over the mirrored surface of the Derwent towards Mt Wellington. macq01.com.au

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Treat yourself to a Tassie craft beer Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Hobart from across the network.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Hobart’s hippest new hotel MACq 01 (inset), the MACq 01 Story Bar, Battery Point, Drink Co., Templo.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA, DRINK CO.

Tasmania is home to some of Australia’s finest cool-climate wines and most exciting spirit producers. If you can’t find the time to visit the stellar regional distilleries and cellar doors, drop past Drink Co. for a nightcap. The tiny bar and bottleshop in Salamanca’s Galleria Arcade is filled with local wines and spirits. Crack open a wine on the spot, or buy a bottle for the suitcase. drinkco.club

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Experience I STYLE

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Endless summer

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Make a splash this season with bright hues and playful patterns PHOTOGRAPHY RIC WALLIS STYLING MONIQUE SOAMES

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1. Southside Wave Tote, $15, southsidestore.com.au 2. Bonds Boardies in Leafy Dream, $49.95, bonds.com.au 3. Skwosh Big Chompers, $79, skwosh.com.au 4. Tom & Teddy Jade Green Pineapples, $99.95, tomandteddy.com 5. Local Supply Freeway polarised sunglasses, $79.95, localsupply.com 6. Funky Trunks training jammers in Binary Bro and Street Beat, $49.95, funkytrunks.com 7.

AussieBum Scent short, $39.99, HandleBar trunk in Taronga, $54.45, and Sunkiss brief in Hydra, $47.95, aussiebum.com 8. Add One Thread PVC wallet, $26.95, addonethread@gmail.com 9. Bali Body Watermelon Tanning Oil with SPF 6, $24.95, Cacao Tanning Oil, $23.95, and BB Cream SPF15, $29.95, au.balibodyco. com 10. Aurai Raglan surf suit in green, $99, auraiswimwear.com 11. Funkita Pina Colada Tie Me Tight one piece, $89.95, funkita.com 12. Local Supply Freeway polarised sunglasses, $79.95, localsupply.com 13. Skwosh Kick Ass

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Experience I STYLE

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Make a statement

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Kiwi one piece, $99, skwosh.com.au 14. Peony Swimwear Le Spot one piece $169, peonyswimwear.com 15. Peony Swimwear Olive shell bralette, $89 and Staple pant, $79, peonyswimwear.com 16. Roxy Athletic Tri bikini top, $49.99, and Base girl bottoms, $49.99, in Festival Bazar roxyaustralia.com.au 17. Elle Evans Wilderness knotted crop, $90, and Island bikini bottoms, $75 in reversible Palm Print, elleevansswimwear.com.au 18. Liar The Label Ivy top, $60, and Becca pant, $59, in Ocean, liarthelabel.com.au 19. Rails Lucca Terrenas stripe dress, $266, railsclothing.com 20. Purple Jungle Eva medium planter, $179, purplejungle.com.au 21. Liar The Label Canvas beach bag in Sunshine, $60, liarthelabel.com.au 22. Alias Mae Vilify sandal in Light Grey Nubuck, $159.95, aliasmae.com.au Props: The Reject Shop towels and artificial plant, therejectshop.com.au

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15/11/2017 2:49 PM

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Experience I HEALTH

Fe

A S

Get your glow on A Flow After Dark Silent Disco features sparkling yogis and fairy-like instructors, as Lucy Siebert discovers

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Go with the flow

what you feel” and “do what feels good”.

As we start to flow more vigorously, DJ James Mack ramps up the music and Kate invites us to move more, or even dance. One yogi, dressed in silver hotpants and a black tank top, takes up the invitation.

She waves her arms in the air and shakes her tush like she just don’t care.

The session incorporates a full sequence of poses and Kate gently reinforces the concept of conscious connection – with yourself as well as the earth

beneath you.

Kate uses fun foodie words that she whispers soothingly into her discreet microphone. You don’t open your eyes – you “crack them open”; you don’t plant your feet – you “squish your toes into the mat”. Poses are described as “nutritious” and “generous”.

As I flow and move, I feel, for the first time, a niggle in the right side of my lower back. I hadn’t had any obvious complaints before the class, but Kate’s advice to “feel what you feel”

Try it yourself Flow After Dark Silent Disco events take place in Sydney and Melbourne at various times of the year. flowathletic.com.au

has helped reveal the probable cause of a severe neck ache I had a few weeks earlier.

After the class, I emerge into a balmy spring evening in a state of peaceful zen and I reflect that Kate may look a little like Tinker Bell, but to her glowing yogis, she’s a wise fairy godmother.

PHOTOGRAPHY FLOW ATHLETIC

30

A SEA OF GLOWING blue lights illuminates the room inside the centuryold Melbourne Town Hall where we’re gathered tonight; this silent ocean gently moves in a coordinated sequence. A nymph-like blond creature in a pink tutu and white singlet, accompanied by two similarly attired fairy assistants, sails gracefully around the stage. Behind her a DJ grooves and bops in complete silence.

This is Flow After Dark Silent Disco – a group yoga session that is challenging and relaxing in equal measures, and suited to yogis of all abilities.

On arrival, I collect my glowing noise cancelling headphones before laying down my yoga mat (bring your own) in the normally formal auditorium. Then yoga instructor Kate Kendall takes to the stage, kicking off 90 minutes of vinyasa-style practice. She starts with a few minutes of quiet reflection and intention setting, before we gently warm up and begin to flow.

In the dark, with only the cobalt-blue shine from the headphones lighting the hall, there’s no pressure to maintain the perfect pose or try advanced moves.

Instead, Kate constantly encourages us to “feel

14/11/2017 1:43 PM

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14/11/2017 2:04 PM

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Experience I RECIPE

Tastes like summer!

Perfect pavlova

33

This summer classic is always a winner ... no matter what side of the ditch you’re on WORDS NOLA JAMES

H

ere’s a bit of trivia for you: the first Australian recipe for “pavlova” wasn’t the concoction of meringue, cream and fruit that we know today – it was a colourful layered jelly from the Davis Gelatine Company’s cookbook, Davis County Dishes, circa 1926.

More than 90 years

on there’s still rivalry over the modern version – Australia and New Zealand both lay claim to the dish (recent research concluded it could even be a US creation) – but we all agree that the dessert, named after Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, is the crown of the summer table.

Australian journalist Richard Cornish, author of culinary advice anthology

Brain Food, receives at least 50 letters a year from home cooks wanting to master their meringue.

“The perfect pav eludes many and it can take patience,” Richard says, crediting the proliferation of the home electric beater (in the 1940s) for propelling the dish to household-name status.

“When you whip sugar and egg whites, the water from the whites dissolves

the sugar creating a sweet eggy syrup – it will hold air bubbles, but not nearly as well as pure egg white, so it takes a lot of whisking.

“Before electric beaters it could take a chef a good part of half an hour or more with a whisk and copper bowl.”

TV host, farmer and author Matthew Evans, of Tasmania’s Fat Pig Farm, reckons the perfect pav

23

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14/11/2017 1:44 PM

A H M Y

Experience I RECIPE

I’m particularly fond of mixing a little passionfruit powder in with the cream.

Dreaming of dessert

Im an ad to yo ov gl to co

INGREDIENTS 34

34 needs a crisp crust and a marshmallow-like centre.

“The classic topping has to be passionfruit – it’s fragrant and sharp with an acidity that cuts through the sweet richness of the meringue … but tinned fruit is absolutely a last resort.”

Matthew’s favourite fruits reflect the season: this time of year the host of popular SBS series Gourmet Farmer recommends balancing sweet and tart flavours with new-season peaches, raspberries and strawberries; in winter perhaps clotted cream, lemon curd and rhubarb.

New Zealand cookbook author and TV host Annabel Langbein (pictured above), who considers the pavlova to be the quintessential

Kiwi summer dessert, has made hundreds of pavlovas.

“I think pavlova is the whole reason I became a cook,” she says, “I remember watching mum with the old Kenwood mixer at Christmas time ... and being allowed to lick the beaters too, of course!”

Her pointers for a perfect pavlova include watching the weather – meringues baked on humid days often sink after cooking – always using an electric beater, and choosing egg whites that are at least seven days old and whisked at room temperature.

And for an extra special touch? “I’m particularly fond of mixing a little passionfruit powder in with the cream,” she says.

Annabel Langbein’s Ultimate Pavlova SERVES: 10-12 • Preheat oven to 110°C and line an oven tray with baking paper. Mark out a 23cm circle. Turn paper over so the marks don’t transfer to the pavlova.

• Combine pavlova ingredients in a very clean glass, china or metal bowl, or the bowl of an electric mixer, and beat on high speed for 10 minutes until thick and glossy – it should be thick enough not to fall from the beater and not feel gritty when you rub some between your fingertips.

• Heap meringue into the circled area of baking paper and smooth the top and sides.

Bake for 1 hour 20 minutes then turn off the heat, keep the oven door closed and leave to cool in the oven for at least 2 hours or overnight.

PAVLOVA • 8 egg whites, at room temperature • 2 cups caster sugar • ¼ cup boiling water • 2 tsp white or malt vinegar • 1 tsp vanilla extract TOPPINGS • 300ml chilled cream • 2 tbsp icing sugar • 1 tsp vanilla extract • Fresh fruit of your choosing • fruit compote (optional) • 1 tbsp lemon juice • coarsely chopped nuts, to garnish

• When ready to serve, whip cream to soft peaks with icing sugar and vanilla extract. Stir fresh, sliced fruit (such as apricots, strawberries or kiwifruit) into lemon juice. Pile cream on top of pavlova, drizzle with compote (if desired), top with sliced fruit and garnish with nuts.

For more great Annabel Langbein recipes visit annabel-langbein.com

W Th bu is ar ho

Bl Cu on m pr

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To Is

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14/11/2017 1:44 PM

Lucy_R

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The practitioners in this offer are so confident that they can help you, that if you’re not satisfied with your thyroid consultation they will give you, within seven days of your appointment, a no-questions-asked full refund on services.

What to Expect The consultation charge is $167 and we 100% waive the $140 fee for the thyroid screen. Our practitioners have had extensive training and experience in treating and assessing thyroid function. In your consultation we will assess your health, perform the thyroid screening and then design an individualised program using specific nutritional supplementation, herbal medicines and dietary advice to improve all areas of your health. We use an integrative approach to get the results you need so if you do need medication we can refer you to one of our preferred GP’s or work in with your GP.

To receive your FREE eBook on The 7 Reasons As To Why Your Thyroid Is Causing You to Gain Weight, visit www.thelucyroseclinic.com.au

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

The giving season

Seeing food go to waste while others went hungry spurred entrepreneur Ronni Kahn to start her own social enterprise

WORDS PETER BARRETT

You operate in Australia, Thailand, the UK and (soon) in South Africa. How did it all start?

I had a successful events company for many years and I noticed the huge volume of food going to waste every day. I wanted to do something meaningful with my life and, knowing there were people in need, I decided to make the connection.

I started OzHarvest in 2004 with two vehicles.

We now have 50 and have delivered more than 70 million meals from food that would otherwise have gone to waste. We’ve also put 55 vulnerable kids through our education program, Nourish. I’m very proud about that.

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Any tips for other social entrepreneurs?

Our impact drives our income. That’s probably one of the most important things. It means every time I can show the good that we are doing and the effect that we are having, people invest in us. So, you must have a clear value proposition.

surplus food generated by the events industry. It didn’t occur to me that I’d actually be tackling a major global problem. I wasn’t prepared. The first hurdle was to protect the food donors from liability, this involved changing legislation in four states to make it safe to donate food to charities.

Any hiccups along the way?

I did my due diligence based on what I knew from the volume of

What are you most proud of?

There are many things.

Seeing the students go through our Nourish

program and graduate motivates me every day. Plus you’re breaking the cycle of intergenerational poverty and that’s fundamental.

We’ve also just opened Australia’s first rescuedfood supermarket in Kensington, Sydney, the effect on the lives of the people who shop there has been extraordinary.

Ronni Kahn is the CEO and founder of OzHarvest ozharvest.org

PHOTOGRAPHY OZHARVEST, LIVIA GIACOMINI, WATERAID, 23 DEGREES, VISIT VICTORIA

36

What do you do?

I run a food rescue organisation called OzHarvest, which collects more than 100 tonnes of surplus food every week from donors across the supply chain. We deliver it to more than 1000 charitable organisations helping to feed people in need. Our driving purpose is to nourish our country, which we do in four ways: rescue, educate, engage and innovate.

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

1

Become a volunteer

If you’re a fan of Working Dog’s recent TV series Utopia on the ABC you’ll know that the seemingly endless stream of CEO sleep-outs, fundraisers and charity marathons in their office provided plenty of laughs. But is “charity fatigue” a real problem in Australian workplaces?

MAKE A DIFFERENCE WITH THESE GIFTS 1. TAPS, TOILETS AND TANKS. Not-for-profit organisation WaterAid Australia’s “gifts for life” allow you to send cards in exchange for muchneeded water infrastructure in vulnerable communities. Buy a tap for $17, school toilets for $25 or lash out with a rainwater tank for a village, $2750. wateraidgifts.org.au 2. A TOUR WITH A DIFFERENCE. No Fixed Address Walking Tours are led by experts considered homeless or living in supported housing.

Their fascinating tours of suburbs such as Melbourne’s Fitzroy (right) are packed with history, culture, food, footy and art and support disadvantaged and marginalised local guides.

From $55. nfacitytours.com 3. LATTES FOR FEMALE FARMERS. Australian company 23 Degrees supports and educates female coffee growers around the world through its Women Coffee Growers Project. Help women in wartorn Cauca, Colombia, access health, education and housing by purchasing 250 grams of Colombian beans ($13.50) online. 23degrees.com.au

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2

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If you’re starting to feel swamped by raffles and cake drives at work, maybe it’s time to collaborate, suggests Volunteering Australia’s CEO Adrienne Picone. “This enables everyone to have a say, and for fundraising and volunteering efforts to be channelled to causes that employees are passionate about.”

31 per cent of Australians are already volunteers, so what’s stopping you?

3

A cup of goodness

Happiness, health, better sleep, gaining new skills and meeting new people are just a few of the benefits, Adrienne says.

“You should volunteer because it’s good for you.

It’s instantly gratifying, and even a small contribution can make a difference.”

Find out more at govolunteer.com.au

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14/11/2017 1:45 PM

Gift Guide

2017

Essential gift guide

Get into the gift-giving groove this year with these great ideas for all ages and interests 41 I FASHION FIX

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Pretty in pink, silver and gold

42 I GET OUT, GET ACTIVE Grooming, games, beachwear, sports and more

45 I IT’S PLAYTIME! From puzzles to pets, we’ve got kids covered

47 I TOP TECH TOYS Old-fashioned fun and great gadgets

48 I GOURMET GOODIES For makers, bakers and appreciators

50 I GIFTING HACKS The perfect wrap, plus tips for a fun festive season

50+gifts

ST TECH, RETRO TOYS TO THE LATE CHRISTMAS GIFTS: FROM LY TS FOR THE WHOLE FAMI FIND FUN AND STYLISH GIF

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Gift Guide

SHADES OF PINK Channel ’50s chic with the Petite Amour Sunglasses in Taupe/Brown (above), a collaboration between Bec & Bridge and Pared Eyewear, $250. And you won’t go wrong with a chic bag. Willow backpack

by Rollin’ and Strollin (left), $249.95

The style fïle

Give a gift that’s right on trend with accessories in sweet summer pastels

THAT’S A WRAP Wrap yourself in art with Silk Art Scarves by Phillip Ayers, Classic 100x100 for $140 41

Trenery Paper Braid Mona sun hat, $79.95

BOOK-SMART BLING The Saffiano Organiser in Rose Gold from Filofax comes in Personal ($84.95) and A5 ($149.95)

WILD HORSES We’re loving the Wilde-FlorinNatural bag from cult New Zealand brand Deadly Ponies, $369

MADE IN MELBOURNE Tara Lofhelm’s Dot Dot Dash Silver Hook Earrings, $230

PHOTOGRAPHY FLAUNTER

TIME AFTER TIME: DANIEL WELLINGTON CLASSIC PETITE 32MM MELROSE WATCH, $239

STEP OUT IN STYLE In the Clio sandal with dusty pink velvet bow by Ancient Greek Sandals, $260

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Do a little dance in Gorman’s Moon Dance cropped tee, $99

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Gift Guide

Man-scaping The Groomed Man Co. makes all of their beard oils and grooming products, like this Activated Charcoal & Bamboo Body Scrub, $38, right here in Australia

SWIM & SURF You’ll be ready for the beach in The Rocks Push Balmoral Pink Paddles, $99.95

Gifts for guys

Take your pick of great grooming basics and the best gear for work and play

YOU WISH: TIFFANY & CO. SET OF TWO TABLE TENNIS PADDLES AND THREE PING PONG BALLS, $1,050 42

OFF THE CUFF Buckle | 1922 Brushed Gold Cufflinks, $49

CLEVER CLOCK Fossil’s intelligent Q Commuter Hybrid Smartwatch syncs with your smartphone, $279

SUMMER STYLE Tommy Hilfiger Ryan C-NK Tee, $69.95, 9Twenty New York Yankees Cord Midi from General Pants, $35, The Rocks Push Shelly short in Breton Stripes, $99.95.

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Get into the Aussie spirit with Starward Solera whisky, $85 PHOTOGRAPHY FLAUNTER

Adidas Pharrell Williams Tennis HU shoes, $180

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14/11/2017 1:47 PM

PURCHASE THESE STICKERED CDS FOR A CHANCE TO WIN 1 OF 1000 JETSTAR VOUCHERS

Purchase period commences at 6.00am AEST on 15 September 2017 and concludes at 11.59pm AEDT on 31 December 2017. Open to Aust residents 14+. Under 18’s must have parent/guardian consent. Purchase eligible product/s, peel the sticker to reveal your prize code and go to friendsforchristmas.com to enter. Entrants must be members of or join Friends For Christmas Club to enter, claim prizes and enter the chance draws. Some prizes require additional claim procedures. Prizes forfeited if not claimed by date specified in full terms. Total Prize Pool value $100,000. Total 1,000,000 stickers & on average 1 in 1,000 yield an instant prize. Second chance draw to be held at 11.00am 3/4/18 (AEST) at Promoter’s address. If necessary, third chance draw to be held at 11.00am 6/7/18 (AEST) at Promoter’s address. Winners of prizes $250+ published at friendsforchristmas.com. Proof of purchase may be required. Stickers not for resale and remain the property of Promoter. Promoter: Sony Music Entertainment Australia Pty Ltd (ABN 95 107 133 184) 11-19 Hargrave Street, East Sydney NSW 2010. NSW Permit No: LTPS/17/16031; SA Permit No: T17/1598 ACT Permit No: TP 17/01388.Full Terms: see www.friendsforchristmas.com All rights reserved.

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14/11/2017 1:48 PM

Gift Guide

Fab frock This cool, comfy dress is perfect for playtime, with a great message to match. Wild and Mini Littlehorn Adventure Dress, $49.95

Make and do!

Spark their imagination with gifts to inspire a world of creativity and curiosity ALL ABOARD Let them clamber all over the knitted Banjo + Co Climb On, from Salt&Pepper, $399.95

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BEAT OF THE DRUM Get the band back together with these cute Bongos from Cotton on Kids, $39.95

Cotton On Kids Play Tent, $39.95 KING OF THE JUNGLE They’ll have a roaring good time in the Cotton On Kids Max Tee, $16.95

SANTA RACE

PHOTOGRAPHY FLAUNTER, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Throw Smiggle’s Santa Wall Climber, $7.95, and watch Santa shimmy

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IT’S A HEADSCRATCHER: GO TO THE FUTURE PUZZLE FROM OUTLIVING, $49.95

Gross out with Smiggle’s pond slime goo, $8.95

BABY BEATS JBL JR300BT Kids Wireless on-ear headphones, $69.95, for little music lovers

GOGGLES WITH BITE Cotton On Kids shark goggles make water play lots of fun, $14.95

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From small market stall to much-loved Australian brand, Francesca is the on trend designer jewellery label by sisters Hannah & Rachel. Working with sterling silver and solid gold, the two sisters meld their contrasting styles to create striking contemporary pieces.

Become the designer with Francesca’s latest collection ‘Francesca Create’. First, fall in love with a base, then, discover charms that remind, inspire and reflect who you are

Shop 231 Melbourne Central, Melb Shop 6A Cat & Fiddle, Hobart www.francesca.com.au GET 15% OFF WITH CODE ‘JET15’

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14/11/2017 1:48 PM

Gift Guide

Sony has re-released everyone’s favourite robot, Aibo the dog, ¥198,000

Brain food

Gifts to inspire, from the latest tech to music, books, games and more

COOL COVER

47

No-one will know you’re holding an Ipad with this nifty Incognito iPad Case that looks like a notebook, $14.95

SONY SOUND Enhance your tunes with the XB80BS Extra Bass™ Wireless Sports In-ear Headphones $229.95, and SRS-XB20 Portable Speaker, $149

AUSSIE SCRABBLE Find this dinkum game at Big W, Target, Toys R’ Us and Myer, $39.99

SWITCH ON, SWITCH OFF: WITH THE QUIETCOMFORT 35 WIRELESS HEADPHONES II FROM BOSE, $499

Play Scythe, a board game set in 1920s Europe, where politics, power and commerce collide, RRP $129.95

FOR BOOK WORMS Delve into classic fiction, such as Donna Tartt’s The Little Friend, from Bloomsbury, $17.99

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15/11/2017 4:15 PM

Gift Guide

Noritake Tasting Hour glasses, $25 per set of 2

Gourmet goodies Treat the foodie in your life with edible (and quaffable) gifts and kitchen inspiration

SCOOP IT UP Wallpaper Blue Cereal Bowl, $24.95, from Minimax

SAY CHEESE Salt&Pepper’s cheese-lovers Fromage range includes the Round Cheese Board, $49.95

Salt&Pepper Host Cheese Knives in gold, $49.95 set of 3

48

CHOCOLATE CHEER This milk chocolate Santa

by Koko Black is sure to bring a smile, $29.50

HAPPY SNACKING WA artisan food producers Poach Pear make their terrines with premium local ingredients, POA

BLACK GOLD Mr Black Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur, $59.99 from Dan Murphy’s, is brewed on the NSW Central Coast

SEASON’S SWEETS A pretty tin of Crabtree & Evelyn’s shortbread makes for a delicious gift for any foodie, $35

CAFFEINATED COOL : SMEG 50’S RETRO STYLE ESPRESSO MACHINE IN CREAM, $499

IMPERFECTLY PERFECT Lorena Gaxiola Soft Rock Glasses in Blush, from $75

Le Creuset wood waiter ’s friend, $75

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14/11/2017 2:13 PM

Jetstar_

We’ve Got A Book For Everyone This Christmas!

For the Guys

For the Kids

For Mum

For the Literary Lover

For the Sports Addict

For the Trendsetter

out now! @BloomsburySyd BloomsburyPublishingAustralia

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14/11/2017 PM 07/11/20171:48 16:58

Gift Guide

GIFT AND GIVE BACK! Give the gift of hope to families and communities in need by sponsoring a child or buying a gift through World Vision, a proud Jetstar partner. worldvision.com.au starkids.jetstar.com

‘TIS THE SEASON Get in the festive spirit with Adairs Christmas home decor range.

Grinch be gone

All wrapped up Bring some festive fun to your tree and table with these great creative ideas

50

Add Kikki-K’s set of six bon bons to your table, $29.95

YOU WISH: CHANNEL YOUR INNER LITERARY GENIUS WITH A BEAUTIFUL FOUNTAIN PEN BY AURORA, $275

WRITE IN STYLE Japanese inks by Pilot, $39.95, make writing cards a pleasure.

IT’S A WRAP Give your gifts something extra with the Melbourne-made paper from Inky Co. (below left). Be a little thrifty with cost-effective embellishments such as string and spray-painted pinecones.

Jetstar gift card Choose between values of $50 and $100 at retail outlets across Australia including Coles, Woolworths, Australia Post, Big W and Target.

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Does the mention of Yuletide logs, tinsel or eggnog fill you with seasonal excitement or stress-inducing Christmas dread? Despite all the good things – the getting together, sharing of great meals and thinking of others (not to mention the presents) – Christmas has its ‘special challenges’. And by that I mean, of course, ‘spending time with your relatives’.

If you’re not careful, negotiating where the event occurs, who is invited and who’s cooking what can quickly escalate into major diplomatic incidents.

If you haven’t already created a system, get a comprehensive plan drafted. Now. What you can’t avoid, though, is that one relative whose views on politics, religion and money are so unpalatable they could have their own TV show. Polite disinterest is a popular technique, although a dash of empathy doesn’t go astray either – you may not be able to change their rustedon views but you could probably understand more about the journey that took them there.

Finally, there are the presents. Unless you are a child I heartily recommend Kris Kringle (AKA Secret Santa). In my experience, buying one anonymous gift for a family member results in gifts that are more killer, less stocking filler.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, CARE / JOSH ESTEY

Peter Barrett has some tips for happy family gatherings

14/11/2017 2:13 PM

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Experience I TRAVEL TRENDS

Sayonara ’17 From places we can’t get enough of to the fads we want to see the back of – we hit ‘rewind’ on the year that was WORDS PAUL EWART

3.

Pacific holiday bliss

52

2.

BACK TO BALI The appetite for Bali’s charms continues to grow, with a raft of new hotels, restaurants and experiences adding to the island’s ongoing appeal.

RED CENTRE RULES Growing interest in Indigenous experiences, artist Bruce Munro’s stunning installation, Field of Light, accommodation options across the budget spectrum, and affordable Jetstar flights direct to Uluru saw the heart of Australia grow as a must-do destination for travellers.

1.

ISLAND LIFE Jetstar’s flights to the Cook Islands have seen a rise in visitors to the laidback island nation, famous for its stunning lagoons, friendly Islanders and beautiful weather. Kiwis have embraced the new route, with New Zealand driving a significant increase in demand for flights across the peak and off peak seasons.

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4.

5.

THE NEW NSW When it comes to local tourism, NSW ruled the roost in 2017.

According to Tourism Research Australia, visitor numbers were up by four per cent to more than 29 million, making it the most popular state for travellers by far.

VIETNAM VACAY With ultra-affordable accommodation, delicious food, stunning beaches, fascinating history and vibrant culture, it’s no surprise visitors are flocking to the country’s largest city, thanks in no small part to Jetstar’s direct flights to Ho Chi Minh City, launched this year.

15/11/2017 4:06 PM

Experience I TRAVEL TRENDS

Office by the beach

7.

SWEET NOTHINGS Food trends come and go as fast as you can say #basic, and 2017 was no different. The unicorn latte has gone the way of its mythical namesake, the bubble waffle cone has burst and we’re saying nuts to nutella desserts.

What 2018 will bring?

Only Instagram can say.

6.

WORK, THEN PLAY Have laptop, will travel.

This year saw the rise of the “bleisure” (business + leisure) traveller with Forbes magazine reporting 78 per cent of Millennials have added a leisure component to a work trip.

10.

PHOTOGRAPHY ATTICA, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ARIKI ADVENTURES, DESTINATION NSW

8.

LOCAL IS LOVELY More and more tourists are demanding an ‘authentic’ experience on the road, with more organisations catering to the trend.

Avoid the ‘tourist’ tag by engaging with locals.

Think G Adventures’ Local Living Tours, lokalocal. com, withlocals.com and Airbnb’s Trips.

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9.

THE JOY OF JAPAN It’s no secret that Australians love Japan, but this year we’ve been visiting in record numbers, with the Japan National Tourism Organisation reporting significant year on year growth from 2016.

Meeting the locals

AUSSIE EATS Australia’s status as a world foodie destination was cemented this year when Melbourne became the third city in the world (after London and New York) to host the annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. An international coup, the accolade marked a growing global interest in Australian cuisine and native ingredients. Founder of Noma restaurant in Copenhagen Rene Redzepi seemed to think so – his Sydney pop-up restaurant showcased a menu peppered with bush tucker.

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Sweet treats

There are so many special finds in Sydney’s diverse food scene, like these exquisite treats from Koi Dessert Bar in Chippendale. Find more great Sydney dining ideas on page 75.

PHOTOGRAPHY KOI DESSERT BAR

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HAWAII I SYDNEY I GOLD COAST I AND MORE

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Explore I HAWAII

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Photographer Luke Fandrich stepped into a living postcard in Hawaii’s iconic holiday hotspot Waikiki

That aloha spirit

HAWAII I WAIKIKI

57

14/11/2017 1:50 PM

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Life in bloom A woman with frangipani blossoms in her hair pauses on the crowded streets.

Hawaii’s iconic stringed instrument on display at Ukulele House.

Two surfers fresh from the waves cross busy Kalakaua Avenue.

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Just keep paddling Men race a traditional Hawaiian outrigger canoe with a backdrop of Waikiki’s modern skyline.

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Explore I HAWAII Tourists gather to soak up the evening ‘golden hour’. BELOW: Women perform the hula at sunset.

Blue crush Canadian photographer Luke Fandrich embraced the kitsch and colour of Waikiki WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

T

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About the photographer

it was clear from the get-go that Waikiki was where the energy was disappointed with either.”

This beachfront strip on the south side of Oahu is home to the highest concentration of the island’s accommodation, dining, shopping and nightlife, and looms large on Hawaii’s cultural consciousness. From the longboards crowding the famous surf break and traditional outrigger canoes navigating the bay, to the ukulele shops and hotel hula shows, Waikiki offers a taste of Hawaii’s ancient culture in a tourist-friendly package.

“Waikiki is practically the stereotype for what an

outsider might expect a Hawaiian vacation to look like,” Luke says. “I really wanted to lean into that idea while shooting my series.”

Inspired by retro influences drawn from TV, film and popular culture, Luke brought the postcard to life.

“I set out to put my own spin on what I considered to be iconic Waikiki scenes,” he says.

His images of pineapples, palm trees and girls with flowers tucked behind their ears are a nostalgiatinged ode to the aloha spirit.

Alberta-based Canadian photographer, editor and filmmaker Luke Fandrich is the founder of independent multimedia production company Editing Luke, specialising in the creation of lifestyle and travel content. fandrix.com

FOLLOW: @ed

itingluke.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Hawaii from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY LUKE FANDRICH

62

he name Waikiki evokes images of the classic Hawaiian holiday, complete with perfect waves, long beaches and the sprirt of aloha.

The path to the iconic Honolulu suburb is a well-worn one, trodden by tourists since the early 20th century when legendary hotels such as the Moana Hotel and Royal Hawaiian paved the way for things to come. Today, the Waikiki waterfront is a bustling spectacle of packed beaches and high-rise hotels.

Rather than let this daunt him, Canadian photographer Luke Fandrich set out to capture the chaos.

“Aside from the obvious beauty of the beach, it was clear from the get-go that Waikiki was where the energy was,” he says. “From the tourists exploring to the locals hanging out, it never felt difficult to stumble onto something exciting happening.

“I think you know what you’re in for when you choose Waikiki over other Hawaiian destinations.

I wanted the beach and the energy of the city, and frankly I wasn’t

14/11/2017 1:55 PM

Fuss-free family travel

AWARDS 2017

OMNI 360

GOLD

Newborn Ready

Toddler Friendly

Summer holiday must-have “Our Ergobaby Carrier helps us get around, keeps my hands free and makes for a happy baby – a win at any time but especially when travelling and navigating airports and new experiences.”

Sharon, Travel Blogger • wheressharon.com

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Purchase Omni 360 now at babybunting.com.au/ergobaby or testdrive in store with our Ergobaby expert staff * Discount available on Ergobaby Omni 360 Carriers only and is applicable to RRP. Offer available at babybunting.com.au only. Coupon code must be entered at checkout to receive discount.

Offer expires 31 January 2018. Discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

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15/11/2017 3:34 PM

An experience above all else

Present your Jetstar boarding pass at ticket counter to receive a

20%

discount off entry*

The Southern Hemisphere’s highest viewing platform with the world’s only EDGE EXPERIENCE Open Daily from 10am eurekaskydeck.melbourne @eureka_skydeck #eurekaskydeck *Valid for one entry only. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. Not Valid for Edge Experience.

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MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA

14/11/2017 1:56 PM

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

SYDNEY

Contents

Sydney, NSW

PHOTOGRAPHY REMY WEBB

66 I THE ONES TO WATCH

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The Sydney suburbs getting a makeover

65

75 | TIME TO DINE An insider’s guide to the best Sydney eats for all budgets

81 I INDIGENOUS

INSIDERS

Discover Sydney’s Indigenous culture and history

Artist Fintan Magee’s portrait of prominent Aboriginal elder Naomi Mayers on the exterior wall of Sneaky Possum café in Chippendale.

14/11/2017 1:56 PM

Explore I SYDNEY

Yummy burgers

66

NEIGHBOURHOODS FROM SYDNEY’S FAR WEST TO THE INNER HARBOUR, MEET THE HOT SPOTS CHANGING THE FACE OF AUSTRALIA’S BIGGEST CITY WORDS NATASHA DRAGUN

L to R, TOP TO BOTTOM: Redfern’s Bart Jr., Paramatta’s Alex & Co, Tropfest screening in Parramatta; Kensington Street Social, Oilo, Henry Lee’s in Redfern, Kensington Street Social’s Vegemitini; Sneaky Possum, Olio, Redfern’s 107 Projects; art in Redfern, The Old Clare Hotel, Barangaroo Reserve, street art outside Sneaky Possum.

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NEW SOUTH WALES I SYDNEY

MAP TANYA COOPER PHOTOGRAPHY ALEX & CO, BEN ADORJANI, CULTURE SCOUTS, KENSINGTON STREET SOCIAL, OLIO, THE OLD CLARE HOTEL, SNEAKY POSSUM

CHIPPENDALE

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Chippendale – sandwiched between Cleveland Street and Broadway next to Central Station in the inner west – has long been a favourite student haunt. But it owes its place in Sydney’s inner-suburban spotlight to a number of more recent developments, including the redux of The Old Clare Hotel. Once a sticky-carpeted beer hall for students, The Old Clare is today a striking boutique hotel thanks to the vision of Singaporean hospitality legend Loh Lik Peng.

Its two on-site restaurants, Kensington Street Social and Automata, are well worth visiting, but as the sun sets there’s no better vantage than the rooftop pool bar.

OLD BECOMES NEW The Old Clare is part of the $2 billion development at Central Park, where historic buildings once part of the Carlton United Brewery complex have been transformed into a precinct of shops, galleries and restaurants. Many of them are along Kensington Street, a strip of 16 pretty terraces originally used to house brewery workers.

Here you’ll find hawker-style establishment Kopitiam, upscale Italian restaurant Olio, inventive Koi Dessert Bar and chef Frederic Colin’s first Sydney eatery Bistrot Gavroche, located in an old rum warehouse. There’s also Handpicked Cellar Door, offering 30 wines by the glass, and Concrete Jungle, where chef Bryan O’Callaghan cures, dries and smokes salmon and makes “tofu” from almond milk.

On Sundays, stop by the Brewery Yard Markets in an open-air courtyard beside the old brewery site. Stallholders sell everything from fashion to food, with plenty of street art and entertainment in the mix.

It’s backdropped by towers including One Central Park, known for its vertical gardens, and DUO, designed by Foster + Partners. The tower, set to open next year, is part commercial space and part hotel. It will sit above the heritage-listed Australian Hotel, built in 1936 and bought last year by chef Matt Moran (behind Sydney’s Aria and Chiswick, among others), who plans to restore it to its former Art Deco glory.

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POUND PAVEMENT Sophia de Mestre, one of the co-founders of Culture Scouts, which organises well-curated walking tours around Sydney, says the dynamic mix of art, food and architecture inspired the group’s Chippendale excursions. “We pick neighbourhoods that are up-and-coming, where creatives start out,” she says.

“Chippendale tells a story of Sydney’s past, but is also very forward-thinking.” While the walking route changes to take in new attractions, Sophie will likely point out Scott Marsh street art on the exterior of new bar-cum-gallery Sneaky Possum, and you might visit Galerie pompom, Kensington Contemporary or White Rabbit, which is home to one of the world’s largest private collections of contemporary Chinese art.

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“I can count at least six bars that have opened here in the last six months,” says Sophia, who also leads walking tours around Redfern, neighbouring Chippendale to the south.

Redfern, the heart of Sydney’s Indigenous community, is “rapidly changing”, says Sophia. She lists dozens of achingly cool hangouts now dotting the suburb including Bart Jr., serving outstanding cocktails in a heritage building; Mjølner, a Viking-themed whisky bar; Moya’s Juniper Lounge, a hole-in-the-wall gin joint; and art-loving bar The Bearded Tit. CULTURE VULTURES Nearby Cake Wine Cellar Door and concept café and collaborative space Henry Lee’s are located in a new arts and culture precinct at 16 Eveleigh Street. Originally a clothing and leather goods warehouse, the building has been transformed into a range of public spaces, mural-bedecked walls and a light-filled courtyard.

The suburb’s artistic community is also nurtured at Sydney Story Factory, a not-for-profit creative writing centre for young people, and 107 Projects, another notfor-profit that holds exhibitions and workshops for emerging talent.

THE WRITING ON THE WALL But while gentrification is evident across the suburb, there’s still plenty of local spirit, from the always-buzzing Redfern Community Centre, with its digital recording studio and theatre, to the murals that provide commentary on the area’s social, political and cultural issues. Stroll around the Terrace Street Art Project or along the suburb’s back alleys and you’ll see art by the likes of Daniel Boyd, Tracey Moffatt, Blak Douglas, Nicole Monks and Reko Rennie, all part of Sydney’s contemporary Indigenous community.

During Sydney Art Month (March), Culture Scouts offers tours led by Indigenous artists, who share their knowledge of the neighbourhood and its colourful history, providing insights into the creations on Redfern’s brick and mortar walls (read more about how to discover Redfern’s Indigenous significance in our story on page 81.)

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I can count at least six bars that have opened here in the last six months

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: The iconic Redfern Terrace, café Henry Lee’s, 107 Projects, a Bart Jr. cocktail in the making

MAP TANYA COOPER PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, RHIANNON HOPLEY, BART JR., HENRY LEE’S, ADAM HOLLINGWORTH_/ CITY OF SYDNEY

REDFERN

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SIAS-Je

Pipilotti Rist Sip My Ocean (still), 1996, two-channel video installation with sound, colour, sound by Anders Guggisberg and Pipilotti Rist after ‘Wicked Game’ (1989)

by Chris Isaak, courtesy the artist, Hauser & Wirth and Luhring Augustine © the artist

Art Gallery of New South Wales

MCA presenting partner

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1 1 Nov 2017— 18 Feb 2018

Art Gallery of NSW major sponsor

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CLOCKWISE: The streets of Barangaroo, bistro and bar Banksii, a dish from 12Micron.

BARANGAROO One of Sydney’s newest neighbourhoods on the western harbour, Barangaroo was once a hunting and fishing ground for the Indigenous Gadigal people – rock engravings dating back 6000 years have been found in the area.

LIFE ON THE WATER Shipyards were developed here from the 1850s, but after they were decommissioned in the 1980s the neighbourhood lay derelict for decades. Today, it’s the site of an ambitious

urban redevelopment project carved into three areas: Barangaroo Reserve, a sixhectare green space on the northern headland; Barangaroo Central, a designated cultural and recreation space; and Barangaroo South, a mixedused development of shops, restaurants, offices, apartments and a hotel.

SUBURB IN THE MAKING The area is a work in progress, but when fully complete in 2024, it will feature residential buildings designed by Renzo Piano, a public pier, and Crown Sydney Hotel Resort, sporting 350 luxurious rooms and suites, restaurants, bars and a spa. As part of the project’s sustainable design commitment, more than half of the neighbourhood will remain public parkland.

In addition to Barangaroo Reserve there will be an expanded waterfront walkway, the one-hectare Hickson Park providing a green link to the CBD, and Watermans Cove, an amphitheatre-style boardwalk conceptualised by Grant &

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Associates, the landscape architects behind Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay. It’s due to open in 2021, and will allow visitors to dip their toes into the harbour.

TOWER OF TASTE Barangaroo House, a threelevel waterfront venue with restaurants and bars also fronted by Matt Moran, will add to the greenery. The jaw-dropping space, due to open late this month, features a curved, bowl-shaped exterior

draped in plants. Inside, exNoma and Vue de Monde chef Cory Campbell oversees a menu of contemporary Australian cuisine. The venue expands on the neighbourhood’s already impressive strip of restaurants and bars along the Streets of Barangaroo: Ume Burger, 12-Micron and Banksii among them. And, thanks to a freshly minted fast-ferry terminal and in-the-works metro station, the hub is easier to reach than ever.

MAP TANYA COOPER PHOTOGRAPHY RYAN LINNEGAR, NIKKI TO, THE STREETS OF BARANGAROO

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Flying to Melbourne is now easier than ever...

...via Avalon Airport.

Avalon has always been the easy airport. Cheaper fares, less walking, car parking right out the front and a super accessible terminal ensures an uncomplicated journey.

Add to that the SkyBus Avalon City Express between Melbourne CBD and Avalon - with free wifi, their Free City Hotel Shuttle Bus service and great family deals and your trip to Melbourne couldn’t be simpler.

avalonairport.com.au

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Parramatta’s long Aboriginal history has made it an important part of Sydney’s past. Now, thanks to a number of multi-billion-dollar rejuvenation projects and a booming population, it’s set to become a fundamental part of its future, too. Around 25km west of the city, the suburb is often dubbed the city’s second CBD. If it were a city unto itself it would be the fourth largest in the country – the third largest by 2036.

NEW HORIZONS With a growing population comes new infrastructure, and Parramatta is not shying away from fast-tracking urban development. There will be $8 billion in private and public investment in revitalisation works over the next four years, including new public transport – a light rail and the Sydney Metro West – as well as Parramatta Square, a massive commercial hub that will be one of Australia’s biggest urban renewal projects, expected to be completed by 2019. The project includes the 90-storey Aspire tower, which will become the tallest residential building in NSW if design is approved, while the wider precinct will feature University of Western Sydney Campus housing for more than 10,000 students (the uni campus is again set to be the site for Tropfest, celebrating the best of Australia’s short-filmmakers, in February). The development will run alongside the $200 million reimagination of the Parramatta

riverfront, with new cycleways and walkways, cultural venues such as the Powerhouse Museum (relocating from its current base in Chippendale) and a host of restaurants, bars and accommodation.

SKY HIGH The Crown Group’s Skye Hotel Suites opened in August, becoming the first five-star hotel in the city’s west. Nearby is new ALEX & Co, a sleek $2.5 million dining project that stretches across three retail spaces in the freshly minted Altitude towers. “Parramatta is fresh and happening,” says ALEX & Co owner Alex Aslan, who grew up in the suburb before spending time in London and New York.

“Lots of tourists are visiting this area now.”

LOCAL FLAVOURS A plethora of other food operators have also expanded their empires. There’s an outlet of Jamie Oliver’s casual dining chain Jamie’s Italian; the suburb’s first small bar, Uncle Kurt’s, is now shaking and stirring clever cocktails in a hidden space under a carpark with Bobby Aydogan (ex-Bennelong and Rockpool

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Bar and Grill) at the helm; PappaRich is spicing things up with heart-starting bowls of laksa; and ex-Flying Fish chef Stephen Seckold is serving Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare at Husk & Vine.

There’s also an outlet of plantbased burger joint Soul Burger, offering vegan, gluten- and dairy-free buns, and a 90-seat Burger Project, the Rockpool group’s biggest venue yet. In fact, the hospitality group is so smitten with Parramatta it’s pledged to open two other restaurants in the suburb’s 8 Phillip Street precinct. This expansion of Church Street’s existing Eat Street district, will also be home to Sydney’s highest rooftop venue, Studio 54, when it opens in 2020, alongside a luxury hotel courtesy of the QT group.

Travel info

TOP TO BOTTOM: Tropfest short film festival at the University of Western Sydney, Malaysian restaurant PappaRich, The Burger Project’s Parramatta offering.

Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

MAP TANYA COOPER PHOTOGRAPHY BURGER PROJECT, PAPPA RICH, TROPFEST

PARRAMATTA

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@DearAddisonDesign #DearAddison www.dearaddison.com.au

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HARBOUR CITY FOOD DREAMS SYDNEY’S FOOD SCENE IS EVER EVOLVING. FROM MARKET EATS TO FINE DINING, SYDNEY FOOD BLOGGER LEE TRAN LAM PICKS HER FAVOURITES

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Dessert at Bennelong, Mr Wong, N2 Extreme Gelato, cake at Black Star Pastry, Bulletin Place.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO, MR WONG, BLACK STAR PASTRY, BULLETIN PLACE

Sweet treat

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ONLY IN SYDNEY can you sit inside Australia’s most famous building and eat a dessert mimicking its architectural sails.

But the pavlova (seen top left) at Bennelong, the Sydney Opera House’s flagship restaurant, isn’t the city’s only drawcard. From burgers at Mary’s (endorsed by Momofuku’s David Chang, no less) to the much-photographed strawberry watermelon cake at Black Star Pastry, Sydney’s food scene is full of diverse appeal.

If the city was infatuated with expensive French-inspired restaurants a decade ago, it now keeps things casual: from the lo-fi appeal of ramen joints and small bars to The Dolphin Hotel hosting the country’s best chefs in a pub. The rise of noteworthy vegetarian venues and Chinatown’s far-reaching influence hint at where the scene is headed next. While top restaurants still matter – Firedoor and Ester are internationally renowned – there’s amazing food experiences to be had for all budgets.

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SIPPING PRETTY

FINE DINING BENNELONG Bennelong Point, Sydney Opera House bennelong.com.au Located in Sydney’s most famous building, this restaurant is easier to get into than Quay, its sister venue across the water (you can still order its famous eight-texture chocolate cake here, though). Also on the menu: a pavlova shaped like the Opera House.

ESTER 46-52 Meagher Street, Chippendale ester-restaurant.com.au The understated design might not announce it, but this is one of Australia’s best restaurants.

Chef Mat Lindsay quietly creates astonishing dishes via his woodfired oven, from fermented potato bread with roe to roasted cauliflower and burnt pavlova.

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FIREDOOR 23-33 Mary Street, Surry Hills firedoor.com.au Everything is powered by coal, embers and flames at Lennox Hastie’s remarkable restaurant.

The wood-fired bread with smoked butter is a must.

STYLE ICONS RESTAURANT HUBERT Basement, 15 Bligh Street, Sydney restauranthubert.com The team behind the city’s top bars (The Baxter Inn, Shady Pines, Frankie’s) brings you a grand, yesteryear-evoking bistro that’s enchanting from the very first step inside.

PAPI CHULO 22-23 Manly Wharf, Manly merivale.com.au/papichulo Catch the ferry here and you’ll find this breezy spot right on the wharf. The summery interiors are matched by the menu of smoky chicken wings, barbecue platters and lamb ribs.

ICEBERGS DINING ROOM AND BAR 1 Notts Avenue, Bondi Beach idrb.com This waterside venue could trade on its sweeping beach views alone, but Monty Koludrovic’s menu is just as breathtaking.

Try the luxurious brunch choices.

FAST & FABULOUS EL JANNAH 4-8 South Street, Granville eljannah.com.au You’ll see the sign from the Granville train station – this fast-food joint is home to Sydney’s best charcoal chicken, paired with its famous garlic sauce. There are hot-chip rolls and falafel for vegetarians, too.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO, THE GROUNDS OF THE CITY, MR WONG, CAROLINE MCCREDIE, PAPI CHULO

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THE DOLPHIN HOTEL 412 Crown Street, Surry Hills dolphinhotel.com.au This well-designed pub – courtesy of the crew behind Bondi’s Icebergs Dining Room and Bar – has it all.

Think inventive sandwiches at lunchtime, proper pizza at night, a serious wine room and an Aperitivo Hour program that features $7 bar snacks designed by Australia’s best chefs (Ben Shewry, Danielle Alvarez, Duncan Welgemoed).

THE LANSDOWNE 2-6 City Road, Chippendale thelansdownepub.com.au This old pub has been revived by the team behind Mary’s, so there’s a burger pizza (of course!), a $10 lunch menu, a great gig line-up and a drinks list that’ll inspire you to make the most of the 3am licence.

BULLETIN PLACE Level 1, 10-14 Bulletin Place, Sydney bulletinplace.com Hidden upstairs in a quiet complex near Circular Quay, this bar is full of subtle charm.

The butcher’s roll announcing the day’s cocktails may be short, but the venue’s list of awards is impressively long.

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MARY’S 6 Mary Street, Newtown www.getfat.com.au It’s loud, dark and home to Sydney’s best burgers. Add the “trashcan bacon” to your order, or up the grease with serves of fried chicken. Vegetarians will enjoy the mushroom burger, cooked in a rich herb and garlic confit. Head to the CBD outlet (154 Castlereagh Street, Sydney) for hangoverfriendly breakfasts and fried cauliflower.

BOURKE STREET BAKERY bourkestreetbakery.com.au It’s no surprise that Bourke Street Bakery now has 11 locations. Sydney’s appetite for its pork and fennel sausage rolls, chocolate ganache tarts, and potato and rosemary sourdough has proven unstoppable since the tiny Surry Hills original opened in 2004.

COOL CAFÉS

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Bennelong, The Grounds of the City, Mr Wong, Firedoor, pasta from ACME, ACME, Pepe Saya at Carriageworks Farmers Market, Papi Chulo.

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THE GROUNDS OF THE CITY 500 George Street, Sydney thegroundscity.com.au This blockbuster recreation of a Paris brasserie is by the team behind The Grounds of Alexandria. There’s a dessert trolley, a coffee sommelier and a crowd-pleasing menu.

BOON CAFÉ 425 Pitt Street, Haymarket booncafe.com This Thai-town pit stop is open daily from 8am to midnight, but it’s great at any hour. Drop in for an Asian breakfast of congee, skewers and toast or an after-dinner dessert of passionfruit chiffon cake.

REUBEN HILLS 61 Albion Street, Surry Hills reubenhills.com.au There’s a roaster upstairs, so you know this café is serious about its coffee. But the brunch menu is also an attraction, from pork arepas (corn cakes) to huevos divorciados (divorced eggs).

TWO CHAPS 122 Chapel Street, Marrickville twochaps.com.au The menu at this busy café is so inspired (fried-rice breakfast bowls, croissant French toast), you might not even realise it’s fully vegetarian. Check out its pizzeria around the corner (Madre, 2/205 Victoria Road, Marrickville); the veggo toppings are made with all-Australian ingredients and the unique base is created with Two Chaps’ sourdough starter.

SO HIP IT HURTS ACME 60 Bayswater Road, Rushcutters Bay weareacme.com.au To the sound of unapologetically loud hip-hop music, awardwinning chef Mitch Orr serves pasta that’s as much inspired

by Chinatown as it is by Italy – think black garlic and burnt chilli linguine referencing mee goreng.

ACME’s ever-changing Jatz (yes, the crackers) starter with a daily topping pays tribute to the team’s favourite eateries, from Momofuku Seiobo to 10 William Street.

MR WONG 3 Bridge Lane, Sydney merivale.com.au/mrwong Mr Wong’s fans include Ferran Adria and Kanye West, and despite its palatial 200-plus capacity, there can be a threehour wait to try Dan Hong’s modern Chinese menu at dinnertime. Beat the queue by booking for lunch or yum cha.

BAD HOMBRES 40 Reservoir Street, Surry Hills badhombres.com.au There’s vegan Mexican food with an Asian twist (the tacos are served on Chinese pancakes), a wine list showcasing small Australian producers and a loud, cheesy soundtrack that matches this bar’s carefree digs.

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PERFECT PRECINCTS

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TO MARKET

THE SWEET STUFF

CARRIAGEWORKS FARMERS MARKETS 245 Wilson Street, Eveleigh carriageworks.com.au Each Saturday morning in the former railyards, you’ll find a sampler of Sydney’s best eateries (Billy Kwong, Flour and Stone), street-food vendors and boutique producers from across the state.

SYDNEY FISH MARKET Bank Street, Pyrmont sydneyfishmarket.com.au Ahead of its $250 million facelift, you can still visit this popular tourist spot for fish and chips, sushi doughnuts and classes at the Seafood School.

BLACK STAR PASTRY Four locations blackstarpastry.com.au Black Star Pastry’s strawberrywatermelon dessert is rumoured to be the world’s most Instagrammed cake.

Squeeze into the original patisserie (277 Australia Street, Newtown), grab a seat at the roomier second outlet (113 Dunning Avenue, Rosebery), line up at Kinokuniya’s café (500 George Street, Sydney) or check out its new production HQ and café (210 Bent Street, The Entertainment Quarter, Moore Park).

MESSINA CREATIVE DEPARTMENT 243 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst gelatomessina.com/au Sydney’s favourite gelateria offers seven-course dessert degustations in this cosy venue, complete with inspired drinks (oak-barrel bourbon caramel milk, anyone?) and a takeaway gift.

Lee Tran Lam is the author of blog and podcast The Unbearable Lightness of Being Hungry.

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Street) to one of Sydney’s best spots for sugarcane juice (Thu Phung Sugar Cane Coffee Desserts, 2/50 CHINATOWN Park Road). Overwhelmed You’ll find contenders for by the choices? Take your Sydney’s best ramen at recommendations from chef Chinatown’s food courts Dan Hong (Mr Wong, The (Gumshara at Eating World, Chef’s Line on SBS), who has 211/25-29 Dixon Street, been visiting Cabramatta Haymarket, or Ramen O-San since he was three. He at Sussex Centre Food Court, endorses Tan Viet Noodle Shop F1A, 401 Sussex Street), House (100 John Street) for experimental gelato made crisp-skinned chicken and with billowing liquid nitrogen egg noodles, Huong Xua smoke (N2 Extreme Gelato, (54 John Street) for northern 43/1 Dixon Street, Sydney) Vietnamese dishes, Phu and much-loved institution Quoc (11/117 John Street) for Golden Century (393-399 sugarcane prawns and spring Sussex Street, Sydney), rolls, UE Noodle Restaurant famous for its seafood tanks (180 Cabramatta Road and 4am closing time.

West) for Cambodian soups, CABRAMATTA Kaysone Sweets (4/53-61 This multicultural suburb isn’t Park Road) for fruit shakes short on attractions, from a and fritters and Red Lea 24-hour banh mi stand (Viet Chickens (57 John Street) for Hoa Hot Bread, 107 John its addictive chips.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Carriageworks Farmers Markets, Thu Phung Sugar Cane, N2 Extreme Gelato, Messina Creative Department.

PHOTOGRAPHY CARRIAGEWORKS FARMERS MARKET, @AROUNDTHECLOCKFOODIE, MESSINA CREATIVE DEPARTMENT, N2 EXTREME GELATO

THERE ARE SO MANY GREAT OPTIONS IN THESE TWO PRECINCTS, JUST TAKE YOUR PICK

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FIRST NATIONS Sydney

Indigenous-led tourism is on the rise in Sydney, with a growing number of operators and organisations offering a glimpse into Aboriginal history, culture and traditions WORDS NATASHA DRAGUN

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW

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he Gadigal people of the Eora Nation are the original inhabitants of the City of Sydney, although more than 29 clans made their mark on the greater metropolitan area. Their diverse cultures and traditions date back thousands of years and contain fascinating stories that savvy tourism and travel operators are bringing to life.

Walking tours

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The Aboriginal Heritage Tour at the city’s Royal Botanic Gardens pairs bush tucker with Dreamtime stories and takes participants through the Cadi Jam Ora Gardens, dedicated to plants used for food and medicine by the Gadigal people. Sample seasonal bush foods while Aboriginal guides tell tales of traditional music and dance.

Native edibles are also on the agenda at Barangaroo Reserve, one of Sydney’s most recent urban development projects (see our story on page 70). Barangaroo was a key figure in the local Aboriginal community at the time of European colonisation, and the western harbour precinct is named after her. The site’s Indigenous guides lead immersive tours across the sixhectare headland, home to 75,000 native trees and shrubs, many of which played a pivotal role in the lives of the Eora Nation.

Nearby in The Rocks, Sydney by Dreamtime Southern X walking tours are led by Aboriginal guides, who will regale you with Dreamtime stories about the land. You will also learn how the water, flora and fauna continue to influence the lives of Indigenous people today. The experience begins with a “welcome to land” ceremony, before moving on to Bligh and Barney Reserve, Dawes Point and the Aboriginal

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Exploring Barangaroo. RIGHT: crew on Tribal Warrior’s Mari Nawi. BELOW: Dreamtime Southern X tours. PREVIOUS: Dancers perform at Blak Markets.

fishing site Campbell’s Cove.

Tim Ella, a member of the Yuin-Dharawal Nation, and Grant Hyde, a local author and historian, are behind Kadoo Tours and the Watsons Bay Walkabout Cultural Tour. Some 10km northeast of the CBD, Watsons Bay’s flora and fauna tells a different Indigenous story, which Ella explains over leisurely walks through Sydney Harbour National Park. Ella is also extremely knowledgeable when it comes to native birds, animals and marine

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PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, DREAMTIME SOUTHERN X, BELINDA PRATTEN

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life, not to mention bush tucker.

In the north, Sydney OutBack Tours takes you through Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. Here there are more than 350 protected Aboriginal sites including sandstone engravings of animals, artefacts and Dreamtime characters.

Interpretative experiences touch on bush medicine and Indigenous culture, and are followed by a cruise along the Hawkesbury River, taking in secluded art sites only accessible by boat.

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The arts A growing number of institutions across Sydney are celebrating Indigenous artistic talent. At the Art Gallery of NSW, the Yiribana Gallery presents a well-curated selection of work by Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island creatives. The Australian Museum, the country’s oldest, organises Indigenous experiences that include didgeridoo and dance performances alongside a guided tour of the museum’s First Australians Galleries – a collection

of art highlighting the impact of 200 years of European settlement on Aboriginal communities.

Other galleries showcasing art from emerging and established Indigenous artists include Tali Gallery, where paintings, prints and artefacts are sourced directly from Aboriginal-owned community art centres nationwide; Cooee Art, home to an important collection of bark paintings, sculptures, artefacts and early desert boards; and Kate Owen Gallery, where contemporary Aboriginal art is on show.

One of Australia’s leading dramatic arts companies, Bangarra Dance Theatre is dedicated to Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island performers, with an annual program that includes national and international tours as well as education programs and workshops to foster cultural exchange. Based in Walsh Bay, the troupe tells stories of generations past, but with an exciting contemporary twist.

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Wildlife People visit Taronga Zoo for its vast wildlife enclosures, backed by incredible Harbour views.

Many linger for Nura Diya, tours showcasing Australian wildlife through the perspective of an Aboriginal guide. Learn about the

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Out of town You don’t need a reason to visit the Blue Mountains, northeast of Sydney. But if you’re looking for one, consider an Aboriginal Blue Mountains Walkabout. Stroll through rainforest with an Aboriginal guide and witness rock art, ceremonial sites and artefacts – you’ll also hear Dreamtime stories and try traditional bush medicine along the way. While you’re in the region, pay homage to the rite of passage for young male Aboriginals by going on your own walkabout through secluded, sacred bushland.

Discovery for all ages

The local Darug tribe guides body-painting and bushtucker sessions, after which you can wander to the nearby Waradah Aboriginal Centre in Katoomba for dancing, didgeridoo performances and artwork.

Gammeraigal country that the zoo calls home, and see Australia’s flora and fauna in a new light as you hear their Dreamtime creation stories.

Markets Recognising the lack of opportunities for Indigenous people in travel and tourism, Peter Cooley established Blak Markets as a platform for Aboriginal businesses. Held eight times a year across La Perouse and Barangaroo, the markets unite art and craft stalls with live entertainment, panel discussions, healing workshops, cooking demonstrations and storytelling. The markets also train and employ young Aboriginal people in food services, providing skills for future employment.

Adventure Sand Dune Adventures’ quadbike and sand-boarding tours are a high-octane way to explore

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Aboriginal culture around Worimi Sand Dunes on Stockton Beach. Not only will you take in the Southern Hemisphere’s highest dunes, but you’ll also learn about the history of the land and its original inhabitants. You’ll dig for water, see middens and sample bush foods.

In the middle of Sydney Harbour, Goat Island was once home to early-colonial Aboriginal identities Bennelong and Barangaroo, and is still the site of important artefacts.

The Tribal Warrior harbour cruise aboard Mari Nawi stops here, with guides telling tales of the Gadigal, Guringai, Wangal, Gammeraigal and Wallumedegal people that called this part of the world home.

The boat then docks at Clark Island, where you’ll learn fishing and gathering skills and participate in an Aboriginal cultural performance.

Tribal Warrior also offers

MAIN: Sydney OutBack tours. INSET: Nura Diya tours at Taronga Zoo.

walking tours around Redfern, the birthplace of the city’s Black Power movement, with visits to the National Centre of Indigenous Excellence, Gadigal Radio Station and the Aboriginal Medical Service.

You’ll also learn about The Block, the first urban Indigenous landrights claim in Australia, and the site of protests and community gatherings since the 1960s.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney and extensive car hire options.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY MADELEINE SMITHAM, SYDNEY OUTBACK

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Take in the beauty of this 5-hectare rainforest as you wind your way along elevated boardwalks, whilst discovering exotic wildlife.

Uncover the secrets of the ancient supercontinent Gondwana and explore a forgotten world.

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GRASS-ROOTS GOLD COAST Young risk takers are following their dreams and bringing a creative, alternative mood to this traditional tourist town WORDS NATASCHA MIROSCH

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he Gold Coast is in the midst of a cultural revolution. Its $365 million arts precinct is set to open in stages over the next few years, there’s an annual calendar packed with events and a growing number of young, creative risk-takers intent on

annihilating an outdated stereotype.

“There is no other place like it in the country,” says Louise Bezzina, director of the Gold Coast’s signature art and cultural festival, Bleach*. “Every city has its own feel but the Gold Coast has a particular nuance and style about it that makes

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it a fascinating landscape to be making art in.”

The festival takes place in March and April and Louise says it is unique because it doesn’t constrain art and performance to conventional spaces.

Many of the 50-plus productions take place in open air in

locations along the coast, from Helensvale to Coolangatta.

“It is a festival that is very much inspired by the Gold Coast, its people and its landscapes, without being parochial,” she says.

“It’s about celebrating what’s here, but also changing the perception of the Gold Coast.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BLEACH*

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QUEENSLAND

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The Bleach* festival brings cutting-edge performance art to the Gold Coast each year.

THE ARTISTS AS WELL AS investment from local government, the cultural shift is being stimulated at a grassroots level.

Kiwi couple John and Isla Wilson moved here in 2010 and in 2013 opened Currumbin’s Dust Temple, a creative arts

hub offering a studio and gallery space for artists and musicians across a broad spectrum of genres.

“We were looking for a way that we could hear more stories, see more art and have more music,” Isla says.

“John was in the industrial area one day and came across the space

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We were looking for a way that we could hear more stories, see more art and have more music

that is now the Dust Temple and thought it was perfect for what we wanted to do.”

Ever-evolving, Dust Temple has artists in residence, writers’ and poets’ workshops, exhibitions, live music performances and a coffee shop. Despite its out-of-the-way

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Market at Helensvale has also provided a stage, figuratively and literally, for musicians such as Jed Walters and drummer Chris Dennis of Tesla Cøils, who were awarded the ‘Breakout Artists of the Year’ title at the 2017 Gold Coast Music Awards.

Not too long ago, Jed says, places to play on the Gold Coast were few and far between.

“I had to commute, as 95 per cent of my gigs were in Brisbane, but over the last five years and with more places like NightQuarter and Miami Marketta opening, the music scene here is the best it’s ever been.“ The pair, about to release their second “dark electronica” style EP, is the physical antithesis of the sun-bleached surfer stereotype and their music is similarly disparate.

“Music here tends towards more beachy, folk

We have big crowds, who are very receptive.

It’s not usual to have crowds of that size even in major cities, so we are really blessed acoustic or psychedelic rock. But I created what I loved and what I’d want to go see,” Jed says.

“So I decided to take the risk and say, ‘Okay, this is where I live, but let’s just play what we want and see how it’s received’. Luckily that’s worked really well for us.”

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Tesla Coils live, poet Josh Holms, Dust Temple, on stage at NightQuarter.

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location, it has become a well-loved community gathering place.

Of the Coast’s ongoing creative metamorphosis, Isla says it’s been a “bottom-up surge”.

“It started with an underground scene that has been allowed to grow and flourish in an organic way and is now pushing its way to the surface.”

Slam poet Josh Holms runs regular open-mike poetry jams and workshops at Dust Temple. He’s new to the professional side of poetry but has been quick to make his mark, performing for the first time in 2015 and, in the same year, winning first place in the Nimbin Performance Poetry World Cup. “I’d always been an avid reader and hip-hop listener but then I found poetry in a YouTube vortex, somewhere between a killer whale documentaries and conspiracy videos, and I thought – that’s what I want to do.”

With its often dark and confronting themes, poetry seems at odds with the sunny optimism of the Gold Coast, but Josh, who hosts Dust Temple’s monthly poetry slam, says it’s well-supported.

“We have big crowds, who are very receptive.

It’s not usual to have crowds of that size even in major cities, so we are really blessed.”

Opening at the end of 2015, the NightQuarter

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i TOP TO BOTTOM: IzzyQ on the runway, two of Balter Brewing’s founders Joel Parkinson and Mick Fanning in the brewery, an Evolve Skateboard in action.

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surfers Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson and Josh Kerr, and Balter Brewing Company was born, opening its doors in Currumbin last year.

Today, Balter (the name means, “to dance without particular skill or grace, but with extreme joy”) is sold nationwide, and locals and tourists flock to the brewery on weekends.

While tourism is still big business on the Gold Coast, Bede says there’s been a shift.

“People are doing what they’re interested in and just hoping they make money on the way. There are a lot of people here chasing their dreams.”

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experience – a major goal achieved,” she says. She now plans to break into the overseas market, open a series of boutiques, then, ultimately, show her designs at New York or Paris fashion week.

First, though, Isabelle needs to change people’s perceptions. “People immediately imagine because I’m on the Gold Coast I must design swimwear or that I only do certain things.”

But the Gold Coast’s growing reputation as a retail Mecca is making it easier, with the redevelopment of shopping centres such as Pacific Fair – now home to Prada, Chanel, Christian Louboutin and more – and an increasingly well-heeled population.

The label, with Isabelle’s trademark lush fabrics and New Romantic embellishments, has appeared in InStyle and Stellar magazines and on vogue.com.au.

It was being away from his Gold Coast home that inspired pro surfer Bede Durbidge. “I travel about seven months of the year and would see all these cool venues and think, ‘Why don’t we have that at home?’ While there were plenty of places, it was all about tourists, no one was putting a lot of effort into what was going on for locals. I thought it would be awesome to do a little brewery.”

Bede took his idea to friends and fellow

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JEFF ANNING’S inspiration came in an unlikely, but very Gold Coast, setting – The Spit at Main Beach car park.

“I saw my first electronic skateboard there seven years ago, and as a surfer and snowboarder I was excited by the idea of getting on a board that you didn’t have to push,” Jeff says.

“I went straight home and ordered one. When it arrived I found it was poor quality and pretty heavy, so I started thinking about how I could make it carve better, and came up with some concepts that I took to a local engineer.”

Jeff launched Evolve Skateboards in 2011. Last year, he released a new carbon model with a small motor and superthin battery. The boards sold out in the first day.

Evolve now has a turnover of $14 million, a national market and exports to the US and Germany.

Jeff says the coastal lifestyle is a perfect synergy with his business.

“I’m not sure what it is about this place but there are a lot of young people here who are driven, who want to make their mark.

We’re all just in a lucky place to be able to do it.”

Designer Isabelle Quinn couples that drive with a good dose of ambition.

The self-taught designer’s eponymous label premiered at this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Brisbane.

“It was an incredible

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Coromandel calling THE COROMANDEL HAS IT COVERED: SUN, BEACH AND NATURE, ALL WITHIN EASY REACH OF AUCKLAND WORDS KELLY LYNCH

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Coromandel AUCKLAND

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he nearest wilderness to Auckland is the Coromandel Peninsula, a relaxing getaway that moves to a slower beat.

Leaving downtown Auckland, 360 Discovery Cruises ferry passengers on the easy 65 nautical kilometre, two-hour journey across the Hauraki Gulf and Firth of Thames.

Alternatively, by road, drive roughly three hours south-east of Auckland to Thames, the gateway to the peninsula.

As we disembark from the ferry at Hannaford’s Wharf, the Coromandel appears before us, a peninsula of rugged, dramatic hills coated in forest. In the bay, multicoloured dinghies are beached, bottoms up

93 on the grass, while sounds of laughter can be heard from holiday homes.

Willie and Sarni, the owners of Coromandel Treehouse and tour company Coromandel Adventures, are there to meet our family.

The Coromandel Treehouse is a far cry from a few planks of wood slapped together high between the branches of a sturdy tree. In fact, it is the opposite – a complete home with modern comforts and fancy trimmings, including a clawfoot bath, set on a large peaceful property of regenerating native bush three kilometres from Coromandel township.

At night, the regular calls of a resident morepork (native owl) lulls us to sleep.

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Driving Creek Railway.

BELOW: Historic shopfronts in the streets of Coro Town.

Coromandel township, called ‘Coro Town’ by the locals, is also fondly coined the Wild West.

The reason is obvious once you catch a glimpse of the historic old shops, the false facades, pillars and latticework that date back to when it was a gold diggers’ hub. The long willowy branches of a grand, old pepper tree planted in the far-off mining days offers shade in the courtyard of Pepper Tree Restaurant & Bar. While they make good coffee and a great all-day breakfast, what everyone really comes for is the seafood. It’s no surprise; the fishing and variety of species is so good here.

Around the corner, the Coromandel Smoking Co. specialises in smoked seafood sold over the counter, including locally

caught trevally and kingfish, oysters, scallops and eel.

The peninsula is a magnet for fishing fans, nature lovers, hippies and surfers, as well as artists.

Probably the best-known was Barry Brickell, who came to the region in the 1970s and started to create pottery from the clay earth on his property five kilometres from town. He built a train to transport wood and clay back to his kiln and, over the years, the tracks extended and one train became three.

The trains at Driving Creek Railway traverse native bush past Barry’s voluptuous sculptures and bottle mosaics, and through brick tunnels to the Eyefull Tower, which offers expansive 360-degree views above the tree line.

Step back in time

what everyone really comes for is the seafood There is no escaping the winding roads of Coromandel, they disappear in every direction, so we leave the driving to the experts at Coromandel Adventures.

Heading north, Colville Road hugs the hillside as it

weaves along the shoreline.

At times the only things between us and the lapping water are a narrow strip of beach and simple camping grounds. Further along, on either side of the road, thick gnarled trunks of pohutukawa

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Views across Whitianga.

BELOW: Stunning views reward hikers in The Coromandel.

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grinning kids on new bikes stop for supersized ice creams at the corner shop towels in the sun. There is no escaping the smell of charred sausages on a barbecue nearby.

There are hikes and bike rides around the coast to Stony Bay but instead we choose a shorter walk over the ridge to Port Jackson.

On one side of the single track is rolling grass sloping down to the

picturesque bay of Port Jackson, while the other side falls precipitously to pretty, uninhabited beaches. Straight across Colville Channel lies the secluded forested landscape of Great Barrier Island. On our return journey the exposed golden disk of the sun slips below the sea, leaving us glowing in its

warmth.

There are two sides of Coromandel. One is the dramatic forest-clad hills falling down to Coro township and the Firth of Thames; on the other side is Mercury Bay, where holiday-makers bask on long pristine beaches in the summer months. Whitianga is Coromandel’s ‘city’, with the big supermarkets, a cinema, pubs, bars and frequent festivals. It’s the place to stock up on jandals (Kiwi slang for flip flops) and beach wear. Near the mouth of the harbour, the ferry takes passengers to Flaxmill Bay and popular Cooks Beach, only a 10-minute journey. Hahei Beach is our favourite spot, where grinning kids on new bikes stop for supersized ice creams at the corner shop.

From a hilltop in Hahei, it’s a 40-minute coastal walk down to Cathedral

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trees have flexed and twisted, sometimes their branches joining like outstretched arms into an arc. Their full red blooms are quintessentially New Zealand. Past the one-stop-shop Colville General Store and Hereford ‘n’ a Pickle, known for its beef burgers and real fruit ice-cream, the road narrows to a single lane.

As we drive we see folk fishing off the rocks, pause for a farmer herding cattle down the road, and stop near Fantail Bay to watch a pod of bottlenose dolphins circling for food. Nearly always present on the horizon is momentous, volcanic Mount Moehau, the highest point of the peninsula. In Māori, its name means “windy sleeping place of Tamatekapua” – the Māori chief who is buried close to its summit. The shrill whistle of kiwi birds are frequently heard, thanks to good predator control.

The sounds of human Kiwis can also be easily heard at the peninsula’s northern tip, Fletcher Bay. On an idyllic strip of white sandy beach, while some cool off with a swim in the sea, a family plays an impromptu game of cricket watched on by a disinterested audience lying outstretched on

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Soak it up

Beachgoers dig in for sunset on Hot Water Beach. BELOW: Relaxing on the Thames Coast.

Need to know

Cove. Parts of the track are exposed to the striking sun, and it is much cooler in the shade of trees where birds like tuis and fantails hang out. A solid staircase leads down to a pretty beach generously shaded by pohutukawa trees, their long vertical branches ideal for climbing. The cove is a naturally weathered arch in the cliff side, allowing access to another crescent-shaped bay. It’s one of the most iconic, photographed spots in the country, and has featured in movies such as Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian. On the ocean – a dedicated marine reserve – kayaks and a glass-bottom boat cruise between little islands.

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We save our energy for Hot Water Beach, a short drive away. Below the holiday homes on the hillside is an inspiring gallery called Moko Artspace, Hotties Cafe and Hot Waves Cafe nearby. Carrying spades, we walk along the beach to where the ancient natural hot springs percolate the sand. We twist and gyrate our feet, hips swinging, until the right digging spot is found. The springs can be as hot as 65 degrees, the idea is to channel water from the hottest springs into our freshly dug pool, to keep it constantly warm.

Hard work done, our sand bath is as hot as a spa pool. We settle into it and relax for an hour,

watching long clouds move across the sky, a dog playing catch with its owner and neighbours restoring their pools.

Surfers ride the waves and then someone shouts out, pointing to the sea.

Close to shore the fins of dolphins rise and fall, six of them playing in the waves.

This is Coromandel, nature at its best.

Kelly Lynch was hosted by Coromandel Adventures and 360 Discovery Cruises

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Coromandel Adventures offers a variety of tours, and will transport visitors from Hannaford’s Wharf to Coromandel township, 10 mionutes away. coromandeladventures. co.nz 360 Discovery Cruises has regular ferries operating during the summer months. fullers.co.nz There are no shops at Cathedral Cove, so take water and a picnic.

Hot Water Beach is accessible two hours either side of low tide.

More beautiful beaches to explore in Mercury Bay include Pauanui, Whangamata and Whiritoa.

Need more? Locals love biking, hiking, diving, snorkelling, fishing and standing around the barbecue.

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Explore I OZ IN TOKYO EXPLORE I OZ IN TOKYO A dish from Longrain. RIGHT: Longrain has adapted its popular model from Melbourne and Sydney in the Japanese capital.

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TOKYO

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than it was intimidating.

“I lived in Tokyo as a 19-year-old and fell in love with Japan, its appreciation for beauty in all things,” Bill says. “I can honestly say that Tokyo is the most sophisticated food city in the world. It is impossible to eat badly there, from noodles in the street to three-star Michelin dining. Tokyo is about endless smaller restaurants and craft, rather than a handful of the hottest restaurants of the moment.”

Bill was one of the first to break onto the Tokyo scene, but many have followed suit. Luke Mangan now has a Tokyo outlet of Salt. The team behind Sydney’s The Apollo and Longrain has started Tokyo offshoots of each. Sydney’s Fratelli Paradiso opened there in April. And OUT, a daring project from the team behind Melbourne’s Pei Modern and Rosa’s Kitchen, opened in Shibuya in September.

The menu at OUT features only a pasta dish with truffles, and red wine. Patrons order from

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The Ginza outlet of Bill Granger’s Bills, OUT co-owner Sarah Crago, Bill Granger was one of the first Australian restaurateurs to brave Tokyo.

a ramen-bar-style ticket machine. The stereo plays pure Led Zeppelin. The restaurant seats just 12 people. “There’s really only one city in the world that could possibly wrap its head around such a refined quest for this one ‘moment’,” says David, “and that is Tokyo.”

The “moment” David is referring to is a dinner party he threw for friends a few years ago, where he and business partner Tom Crago served truffle pasta and red wine, stuck Led Zeppelin on the stereo, sat down, and had a “hand of God moment”. The pair,

and Tom’s sister Sarah, decided they needed to recreate this experience for the masses. And they needed to do it in Tokyo.

“Now, I had never actually been to Tokyo,” David says. “But we both settled on the same city instantaneously. And now ... I’ve seen that there is this wonderful culture there of small venues. You get this communal, smallspace sharing vibe, and that’s what we needed to recreate that scenario – where you sit next to someone you don’t know and you end up chatting over pasta and wine.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BILLS TOKYO, OUT

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n the face of it, it seems like the height of audacity: diving into one of the most established, ingrained food cultures in the world, throwing open the doors of your own eatery and saying, “We’re just as good.”

At the very least, running a venue in Tokyo – one of the most competitive and fiercely parochial marketplaces around – is a huge test.

And yet it seems plenty of Australians are up for the challenge.

“It was actually the ingrained food culture that made it so appealing,” says David Mackintosh, the Melbourne restaurateur behind OUT, a new Tokyo restaurant that serves just two items. “Because there is a genuine love of really good food in Tokyo.”

That love of cuisine is something a swag of Australians, from bigname chefs to boutique coffee purveyors, are attempting to harness, and several Australianowned restaurants have opened in the Japanese capital in recent months.

Bill Granger, an early champion of Australianstyle cuisine, now has seven eponymous restaurants in Tokyo, and opened his first outlet in Osaka in November.

The opportunity to move into Japan, he says, was far more exciting

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In a city of almost 14 million people, with literally hundreds of thousands of restaurants, it can be difficult to make a splash. OUT has, however, been a huge success, attracting a mix of Japanese and foreign clientele keen to eat pasta, drink great wine, and listen to Led Zeppelin.

Australia’s hospitality culture is proving popular across the board.

Longrain, the Sydney and Melbourne institution known for modern Thai food, has also been a hit in bustling Ebisu, despite a few initial misgivings.

“There were some things we thought would be a challenge,” admits Longrain executive chef Griff Pamment. “Getting Japanese people to love spicy food, to love food that has an abundance of fresh herbs in it … But, they love it. We were told it would be a challenge, but it isn’t. The people of Tokyo are so obsessed with food, and I think Thai food is emerging as the latest thing.”

The Tokyo iteration is similar to its antipodean counterpart, and yet distinct. The menu and atmosphere is slightly different. But the commitment to great food remains the same.

“What I’m trying to do with Longrain in Tokyo is not to mimic or match what we’re doing in Sydney,” Griff says.

“Much in the same way as I use native Australian ingredients in Sydney,

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We wanted a Melbourne espresso bar where the coffee is the same as what you get back home I’m using indigenous Japanese ingredients in Tokyo. That’s more interesting for me, to create rather than to recreate something.”

There are other, smaller operators making their own mark. Alex Daniel, a former Melbourne-based café owner, noticed a gap in the market on a trip to Tokyo a few years ago: no

evening ... because the coffee scene in Tokyo is very robust, but it’s also very different, and this is a comfort for them.”

The problem Alex has found is that among the Japanese community, Australian-style coffee is not always recognised as a “thing”. That didn’t stop him, however, from trying to recreate the café culture from back home in the Tokyo suburbs.

“We didn’t want to do it in an American style,” Alex says. “We didn’t want to do it in a Japanese style. We ABOVE & PICTURED: wanted a Frankie has Melbourne brought the flat white to espresso bar Tokyo. where the coffee is the same as what you get back home, where the experience from when you walk in the door is very one was serving a decent similar to back home.” flat white.

Alex has also had his Alex and his partner challenges. However, Christal Cheng decided to it has all been worth it establish their own café, to thrive in one of the and Frankie was born in world’s most amazing trendy Shimokitazawa, cities for food. providing the sweet taste “We are open, and of a Melbourne espresso people are coming to a grateful expat and and loving it,” says tourist crowd.

David. “That is deeply “People love it,” Alex satisfying.” says. “Especially if they’re from Australia or New Zealand or Europe. We Travel info get an amazing number of people who are staying Jetstar has great low in Airbnbs nearby, and fares to Tokyo from across they’ll come and visit us the network. every morning on their To book, visit way out to see Tokyo. And JETSTAR.COM they’ll come back in the

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Explore I HUNTER VALLEY

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DAY 1:

Explore Pokolbin’s cellar doors Kick off your weekend with an indulgent brunch. Book a table on the deck of Restaurant Cuvée at Peterson House (corner Broke Road and Wine Country Drive), where the Bubbly Breakfast is served with locally made chocolates and a glass of the estate’s sparkling wine.

From here, it’s just a five-minute drive to The Small Winemakers Centre (426 McDonalds Road), home to a swag of boutique producers.

Seek out the award-winning Reserve

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Tuscan-inspired architecture at Iron Gate Estate. ABOVE: Photogenic views at Audrey Wilkinson. LEFT: Enjoying the views with a glass of wine at Harkham Winery.

Chardonnay and exceptional Shiraz Pinot Noir from Silkman Wines; easy-drinking drops from The Little Wine Company and Hart & Hunter; and the top-rated semillon and shiraz wines from Thomas Wines.

Winemaker Andrew Thomas also lends his winemaking prowess to nearby McLeish Estate (462 DeBeyers Road), Australia’s most awarded boutique winery. Don’t miss his semillon, which was voted world’s best at the 2016 London International Wine Challenge.

Lunch in the Hunter used to be a pricey, drawn-out affair, but a fresh band of wineries has come to the party, offering casual menus designed for sharing. At Usher Tinkler (97 McDonalds Road), graze on platters of cured meats and cheese while you share a bottle of

Nose to Tail Rosé. Or, head to PopUp Restaurant at Harkham Winery (266 DeBeyers Road) on weekends for punchy Latino street food paired with Harkham’s hip natural wines.

After lunch, soak up some of the most photogenic views in the valley from the charming cellar door at Audrey Wilkinson (750 DeBeyers Road), also home to a wine museum and country-chic cottages. Then, finish the day’s tour at Tuscan-style Iron Gate Estate (corner Inglis Lane

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hile the rest of Australia is still in holiday mode, all hands are on deck in the Hunter Valley. Vintage arrives early in this warm New South Wales wine region, as growers race against heat and summer rains to bring in their grapes. There’s a palpable sense of energy in the valley as pickers weave and dart among the vines and winemakers flit about the wineries, their hands stained red with grape juice.

Australia’s oldest wine region has long been a favourite weekend destination for Sydneysiders and international visitors, but if you think you’ve already “done the Hunter”, it might be time for a revisit.

Today, the big names of McWilliam’s, Tyrrell’s, Brokenwood and Lindeman’s have been joined by a slew of boutique producers as the next generation of winemakers come to the fore.

Throw in cool and casual eateries, chic accommodation options, plus outdoor activities that make the most of the balmy weather, and you have the makings of the perfect long weekend.

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Explore I HUNTER VALLEY

View to the kitchen at EXP. Restaurant and one of their platters (inset, left).

BELOW: Breakfast at Cafe Enzo in Pokolbin.

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soak up some of the most photogenic views in the valley and Oakey Creek Road), one of the few wineries in the Hunter making its wines exclusively from grapes grown onsite. As an extra treat, the tasting concludes with Sweet Shiraz and a morsel of chocolate cake.

Be sure to book ahead to secure a table at Hungerford Hill Winery restaurant Muse (Broke Road) for dinner. Troy and Megan RhoadesBrown’s award-winning restaurant draws on the region’s best produce to create spectacular menus paired with Hungerford Hill wines. Don’t miss the signature coconut dessert.

DAY 2:

Dine among the vines Don your stretchy pants (and hire a driver) for today’s gourmet pursuits. To start, nab a table on

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the sun-drenched terrace of Cafe Enzo (Peppers Creek Village, corner Broke and Ekerts Roads), then order a generous breakfast board of shaved ham, poached eggs, local Binnorie feta and roast tomatoes.

After a heart-starting espresso, head next door to the sandstone cellar door of David Hook Wines to try Italian varieties including pinot grigio, vermentino and the Novo Rosso, a food-friendly blend of sangiovese, nebbiolo and barbera.

A five-minute drive brings you to Keith Tulloch Wine (corner Hermitage and Deaseys Roads), where wine tastings are conducted on the breezy verandah of this stylish, Hamptons-inspired property. Across the lawn lies Muse Kitchen, the casual little sister to Muse Restaurant. Enjoy a French-

accented lunch of salmon rillettes, confit duck and chocolate fondant.

Pop across the road to Scarborough Wine Co (7 Broke Road), where seated wine tastings in the modern cellar door include a free cheese platter. Before you reach peak cheese and wine, head one minute up the road to Thomas Wines (corner Hermitage Road and Mistletoe Lane), winner of the 2017 Hunter Valley Cellar Door of the Year. In the sleek cellar door, sample Andrew’s lauded semillon and shiraz. Then stock up on artisan goat’s and cow’s milk cheeses at Binnorie Dairy next door – the marinated feta is a must.

Wrap up today’s gourmet trail with a crisp Summer 38 ale at IronBark Hill Brewhouse (694 Hermitage Road). This boutique

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Explore I HUNTER VALLEY

Delicious start to the day

Fluffy pancakes topped with bananas, honeycomb butter and maple syrup at Emersons.

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brewery also offers behind-thescenes tours and beer and cider tasting paddles.

After a catnap back at your accommodation, dress up for dinner at EXP. Restaurant (1596 Broke Road), where chef-owner Frank Fawkner crafts impressive tasting menus using native ingredients. Or, if you’re tired following the day’s wining and dining, stock up on local cheeses, cured meats and bread at Smelly Cheese Shop (2144 Broke Road) for an in-room picnic back at your hotel.

DAY 3:

Paddock-to-plate experiences For your final day, head to Lovedale and breakfast at Emersons Cafe & Restaurant (492 Lovedale Road), overlooking Adina Vineyard & Olive Grove. Chef-owner Emerson Rodriguez sources produce from neighbouring farms, including olives from the surrounding groves.

Enjoy thick-cut bacon with local free-range eggs, mushrooms, spinach and sourdough.

Take a breather from all that eating by signing up for a private cooking class or smoking and curing

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masterclass class with chef Ben Sales at Majors Lane (64 Majors Lane).

Stay on for lunch in the alfresco restaurant, or book a table at one of the Hunter’s other leaders in farmto-fork fare. Housed in a charming 1800s cottage, Circa 1876 restaurant (64 Halls Road) is renowned for its luxe decor and modern menu, which showcases produce plucked straight from the organic kitchen garden.

At Bistro Molines (749 Mount View Road, Mount View) acclaimed chef Robert Molines also draws from his onsite herb and vegetable patch for outstanding French cuisine.

Twenty minutes away, in the town of Broke, Margan (1238 Milbrodale Road) is a winery and cellar door, with a kitchen garden, free-range chickens, lambs, olive groves and bee hives. Order the summer tasting menu, perfectly matched with Andrew Margan’s food-friendly wines.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Newcastle and extensive car hire choices.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

A comfy bed awaits at one of the Hunter’s boutique retreats.

Choose a cute cottage overlooking grapevines at Audrey Wilkinson; luxury suites at The Longhouse; industrialchic rooms at Tonic Hotel; a modern two-bedroom abode at Lilies Luxury Retreat ; or a gourmet getaway at Spicers Vineyards Estate.

WHAT TO DO Discover the Hunter from new heights with a break-ofdawn balloon ride over the region. Take off with Beyond Ballooning, Hunter Valley Ballooning, or Balloon Aloft, then celebrate with breakfast and a glass of sparkling once you’re back on solid ground.

If you fancy a canter through wine country, sign up for a tour with Hunter Valley Horse Riding or the Hunter Valley Resort. Play a round of golf at Cypress Lakes, Hunter Valley Golf and Country Club, or the Greg Norman-designed Vintage Golf Club.

Avoid the hassle of nominating a designated driver by booking a tour with one of the Hunter’s reputable operators including Wine D Road Tours, Hunter Valley Boutique Wine Tours, Hunter Hire Cars and Wine Country Limousines.

GETTING THERE Touch down at Newcastle Airport in Williamtown, an hour’s drive east, or take a two-hour drive up the F3 from Sydney to the central hub of Pokolbin.

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8. MONDAINE The classic Mondaine SBB collection for the wrist and pocket all feature the easy-to-read face of the iconic Swiss Railways Clock.

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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

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Directory I COOK ISLANDS / INDONESIA

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This month GREAT THINGS TO DO, BUY AND EXPERIENCE

Go wild Uncover the secrets of the ancient supercontinent Gondwana and discover exotic wildlife as you wind your way along boardwalks through five hectares of rainforest.

Lost Valley, opening Boxing Day, is an exciting addition to Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary. currumbinsanctuary.com.au

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GLOW GIRL Eco Tan’s cruelty-free, organic products are loved globally. The Christmas Glow Pack ($64.90) makes the perfect gift, with a free tan remover glove (valued at $19.50) included. ecotan.com.au

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FISH TALES 101 tagged barramundi have been released across the Northern Territory’s Top End, with 100 worth $10,000, plus one worth a million dollars! Stay, play, and fish in the NT for your chance to catch a winner. milliondollarfish.com.au

SKI MADARAO Ski Madarao, the powder bowl of the Japanese Alps, with a Powder Package from OzSnow, $995pp for seven nights. ozsnowadventures. com.au/japan/

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Mind games The Australian College of Applied Psychology (ACAP) offers courses in counselling, psychology and social work. Apply now to study in February 2018. acap.edu.au

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Make family travel easier with the award-winning Ergobaby Omni 360 Carrier. To redeem $50 off the RRP, redeem the code “TAKEOFF” at the checkout of Baby Bunting online. babybunting.com.au

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Promotion I MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL FLOWER & GARDEN SHOW

The Melbourne International Flower & Garden Show This year’s spectacular show promises to inspire and delight garden lovers of all ages The Royal Exhibition Building and Carlton Gardens will transform into a lavish paradise for the 23rd Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show, the southern hemisphere’s largest horticultural event. This year’s show promises to be an immersion of all senses with stunning show gardens, spectacular floral installations, interactive workshops, expert talks, tantalising food experiences, live entertainment, hundreds of plant retailers and, of course, the captivating scent of thousands of flowers.

Floral displays and Great Hall of Flowers The perfume of thousands of flowers will waft through the heritage listed Royal Exhibition Building, with dozens of striking conceptual installations produced by Australia’s leading floral artists. The space will also house a bustling retail flower market where show visitors can buy bouquets of fresh blooms from Australian growers.

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Floral design workshops A chance to learn from the best in the industry, the floral design workshops cover everything from designing a flower ring, producing hanging succulent gardens and creating the perfect posy.

Kids under cover cubby house challenge Kids and adults alike will not want to miss the Cubby House Challenge — the annual auction of cubby houses created by leading Australian design and architecture firms. Coordinated by Kids Under Cover (the show’s official charity partner) all proceeds from the auction go to its youth homelessness prevention programs.

Retail Exhibitors More than 150 exhibitors and retailers will come together to showcase the latest in gardening and outdoor lifestyle products.

From exotic plants to gardening tools and the latest in outdoor entertainment, the show is the perfect place to procure everything you need for your blossoming garden.

High Tea Attendees can retire to an exclusive garden lounge and enjoy a glass of sparkling among the blooms. Chefs create a delicious high tea menu, championing Victorian produce.

In a Different Light Gardens by Twilight is the perfect chance to stroll through the venue at dusk. View the enchantingly lit gardens with a glass of sparkling in hand and soak in all the show features after dark. The gardens will be awash with lighting, which will highlight the natural beauty of the venue. Visitors can sit among the central boulevard’s plane trees and enjoy the light show or a picnic on the grass.

Main Stage Nestled within the Great Hall of Flowers, the main stage will host free seminars by an extensive line-up of industry leaders, including floral artists, gardening experts and celebrity landscapers. Gather insight into a range of horticultural topics, watch live demonstrations and be dazzled by the stunning displays in the floral competitions.

Web I melbflowershow.com.au Dates I 21 – 25 March 2018 Times I 9am-5pm Wednesday to Sunday, Gardens by Twilight until 9pm Friday, March 23 Venue I Royal Exhibition Building and Carlton Gardens, Melbourne, Victoria

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Explore I INTERVIEW

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Light up the sky

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Cities throughout Australia and New Zealand put on a spectacular fireworks display on New Year’s Eve. In Sydney, the iconic Harbour Bridge and Opera House provide a stunning backdrop.

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NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

14/11/2017 2:29 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

JOIN JETSTAR AT MIDSUMMA

Meet Lisa

For the third year running, The Jetstar Diversity Council is a proud sponsor of the 2018 Midsumma Festival.

Midsumma is Victoria’s queer arts and culture festival for and by the LGBTI communities. Over three weeks from 14 January to 4 February, the jam-packed festival will include a massive 170 events.

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Come say hello at the Jetstar Carnival stall in Alexandra Gardens on Sunday 14 January or spot our marchers in the Melbourne Pride March on Sunday 28 January.

Life at Jetstar WORKING AT JETSTAR is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about.

The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career.

But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read one of their stories below, or see Life at Jetstar: Jetstar.com/au/en/careers/life-at-jetstar

LISA CHRISTODOULOU Job Title: Manager Customer Care | Age: 36 | No. of years at Jetstar: 10 Location: Melbourne Head Office Describe a typical day: My first priority is supporting our incredible teams in Australia and Asia.

Some days I’ll focus on transformation projects that impact technology and customer experience, and I take every opportunity to work on advocating for our customers. Some weeks, we will be consumed by a crisis (like the Bali ash cloud) and it’ll be a miracle if I can even stop to check my emails. This is what I love about this job though – it is incredibly dynamic.

Career highlight so far?

I’ve had the opportunity to work with

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our Starkids partnership and helped build our $2 online booking donation.

Having visited the communities this money supports, I know what it’s helping to achieve. I also work with an amazing team. Last year’s Gift of Giving program enabled each employee to offer a $50 voucher to a customer. We heard about a firefighter with a terminal illness who wished to travel around Australia in a caravan with her daughter, but needed to regularly fly back into Melbourne for treatments. The entire customer care team pooled its vouchers to help her realise her dream.

Greatest challenge?

I don’t think you could survive in this job if you didn’t really want to help people, but the nature of the airline industry can mean you can’t always do everything you want to. No one likes saying no.

What do you love about aviation?

Travel is so enriching and I love the connections and experiences we are able to provide to people.

Where do you hope to be in five years?

It would be lovely to be living on a tropical island working remotely from a hammock – can we make that happen?

15/11/2017 2:52 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Now flying direct between Adelaide and Hobart WE’RE EXCITED to become the only airline to fly direct from Hobart to Adelaide. The new route, which launched on 14 November, operates three times a week.

Thousands of travellers already fly from Hobart to Adelaide via Melbourne every week and direct flights between these two Australian cities will make travel even easier.

So whether it’s a trip to the Barossa Valley and Glenelg Beach, or visiting MONA and the Salamanca markets today’s the day to make it happen!

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA & MONA, COAL PHOTOGRAPHY

Jetstar & Sony Xmas partnership Jetstar has partnered with Sony Music to promote the ‘Friends for Christmas’ CDs, including artists such as John Farnham, P!nk, Jess Mauboy and Roy Orbison. Each CD has a “Peel to Win” sticker giving customers the chance to enter a unique code and go in the chance to win a Jetstar travel voucher.

For full terms & conditions including participating retailers visit friendsforchristmas.com

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Working on an art therapy project.

INSET: Carolyn Tucker.

Painting

through pain ART THERAPIST Carolyn Tucker believes the sweep of a brush can be a powerful healing tool for unlocking and unblocking the impact of past trauma. It can help people who have endured extreme hardship and suffering find a voice through paint, paper, pen and clay.

For the past 20 years, Carolyn’s art therapy programs have assisted migrant women, men and children from Sudan, Vietnam, India, Bangladesh, the Middle East and China.

She has observed that while many people decide early on in life that they are not creative, art therapy enables people to reclaim their innate capacity for selfexpression.

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Carolyn is collaborating with organisations such as inTouch Multicultural Centre Against Family Violence, Concern Australia, Supported Residential Care facilities and the Expressive Arts program within Melbourne’s Collingwood public housing estate, where she is helping to foster creativity and self esteem among disadvantaged children.

Kooks is proud to support Carolyn’s creative crusade.

For more information go to carolyntucker.com.au

14/11/2017 4:27 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Sharing skills

Victoria Against Violence runs from 25 November to 10 December

Building aspirations

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Jetstar is a partner of the Australian Business and Community Network (ABCN), a not-forprofit organisation that connects high school students from disadvantaged schools with business mentors.

Research shows that there is a growing gap between what young people learn at school and the skills that employers want.

The Aspirations program helps Year 11 students build skills for the modern workplace.

Over the course of five weeks, eight Jetstar mentors engaged with students from Hume

Central Secondary College.

Kate Di Meo, Jetstar Digital Product Owner, says “the Aspirations workshops help students gain a better understanding of what employers are looking for and practical skills when applying for jobs”.

Highlights from the day included visiting the Jetstar Flight Simulator and observing Cabin Crew in training.

“I hope to be a pilot one day (so) it was really cool to see a simulator in action,” says 16-yearold Hume Secondary College student Emily.

Making music in New Zealand As the official airline sponsor of KFC Edgefest 2017, Jetstar recently helped number one NZ radio station, The Edge, and some top international artists, fly across the country for the first music festival of the NZ Summer.

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#GOORANGE Jetstar is proud to #GoOrange in support of Victoria Against Violence NOW IN ITS THIRD YEAR, this Victoria Against Violence campaign will turn Victoria orange to raise awareness of the devastating impact that family violence has on the lives of so many.

At Jetstar, we understand the role that we can play as an organisation to promote gender equality. We maintain a strong focus on gender equality initiatives within our workplace, including encouraging women into traditionally male-dominated roles in aviation. With a workforce of more than 7500 team members, we know that together we can make a difference.

Will you join us to #GoOrange? You can read more about the

campaign at vic.gov. au/women/familyviolence-prevention/ victoria-againstviolence.html.

If you or someone you know is experiencing family violence, help is available: • In Australia, 1800RESPECT (1-800-737-732) provides 24/7 phone and online counselling, information and assistance to all people affected by family violence and sexual assault. If you are in immediate danger call 000.

• In New Zealand, the Family Violence Information Line (0800 4556 450) is available from 9am to 11pm seven days a week. If you are in immediate danger call 111.

14/11/2017 5:04 PM

IMG_FP

Promotion I GREAT OCEAN ROAD RUNNING FESTIVAL

5 Reasons to run the Great Ocean Road The Great Ocean Road Running Festival is one of the most scenic and stunning runs you will ever complete. Forget running around your local park or through the streets surrounding your house; get ready to experience stunning panoramic ocean views, Victorian sunny beach landscapes, and a festival of food, live music and entertainment all in one weekend.

1

It’s just you, the road, and the run.

Experience panoramic uninterrupted views with no tour busses or traffic in sight. This truly is Australia’s most stunning run, winding along the Southern Ocean.

When else will you get to experience a Victorian tourist destination with zero crowds or congestion? You won’t experience a more iconic Australian event.

2

There’s seven events, so there’s something for everyone.

Whether you’re the type to challenge yourself with a long distance run or prefer

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a gentle nature walk, the festival caters to all ages and fitness abilities. It’s fun for the whole family.

3

It’s not just about the run.

The event is all about family, friends, and a good time. Spanning over the 19th and 20th of May, the festival includes live music featuring a jam packed line up of musical acts, wellness sessions featuring free yoga, and even a kite festival for the kids (and the big kids at heart). Can it get any cuter?

4

If you’re a serious runner, this one’s for you.

Choose from the marathon or the ultramarathon. What’s an ultra-marathon? Think 60kms from Lorne all the way to Apollo Bay. With incredible views, this stunning course is unparalleled to any other around the world.

Loved by tourists and Aussies alike, your next big challenge awaits.

5

Have a relaxing weekend away in ocean-view accommodation.

Attend on just the Saturday or the Sunday, or stay the whole weekend in beach front accommodation. The Great Ocean Road Running Festival has put together a range of awesome travel packages and a list of accommodation locations, so the work is already done for you.

Grab your mates or the family and enjoy a memorable weekend away.

The Great Ocean Road Running Festival Dates I 19 – 20 May 2018 Web I greatoceanroadrunfest.com.au

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Available from Australian & New Zealand Authorised Dealers

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Exclusive Distributor | T: +61-3-9500 8894

14/11/2017 2:37 PM

Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

VIETNAM I STARKIDS

Join the club Mothers in Vietnam are learning top tips through a nutrition club WORDS VIRGINIA MORRISON

Ly demonstrates adding egg and spinach to traditional plain porridge.

PHOTO PHAM THU TRANG / WORLD VISION

I

n Vietnam’s Phuoc Son District, Giang Thi Ly Ly leads a StarKidssupported nutrition club, teaching mothers about antenatal care, vaccination and supplementary feeding for children.

When Ly first took on the role, she was very shy. She’d never had to speak in front of a crowd before. But with World Vision’s training in communication skills, she can now stand confidently in front of her community and share important health messages.

“You need to make sure they understand

the purpose of the new knowledge you want to teach them in order for them to start listening,” she says. “Importantly, such new knowledge needs to be frequently repeated so they will not forget and gradually change their old habits.”

Ly is delighted to see local mothers following her advice. For example, they now try to breastfeed their children for the first six months after birth. They also learned how to prepare more nutritious meals for their children, and how to better care for them when they’re sick.

The health benefits

You can help!

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need.

Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia.

By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future.

A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia.

Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information.

Your small change today could change a life tomorrow!

JETSTAR.COM

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

This year*

$341,723 Total

131

$9,472,188 those children has now reached a healthy weight.

Recently, more mothers of malnourished children have joined so they too can learn how to raise healthier children.

Ly loves being able to make such a positive impact. “I am happy that I can help my sisters in the community. I think I will still be doing this in the next 15 years or more,” she says.

for children are already evident. When the nutrition club first started, 10 children in the community were malnourished. Each of *Funds raised in current financial year as of November 2017. Total raised since 2007.

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Explore Essentials I INTERVIEW I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

RUNWAYS

Take off, touch down and everything in between would not be possible without these driveways to the skies

Queen of the runways

132

Queenstown Airport has one of the most scenic landing strips in the Jetstar network, and is the gateway to the stunning Southern Alps. The runway has been designed to account for unusual wind patterns caused by the mountains, and winter snow.

This year the airport welcomed Helga, a brand new runway sweeper from Norway capable of clearing 230,00sqm of surface an hour. She joins a hardworking tractor called Sooty and other maintenance vehicles.

FROM ALL ANGLES Runways are often given a numerical name between 01 and 36 based on their compass bearing. Runway 09 indicates an east-facing runway at 90°, 27 is 270° west, and so on. If a runway is used both ways, as many are, it will be given two names depending on the approach.

DID you KNOW? Some airports are extending runways to accommodate larger aircraft such as the Airbus A380, which requires at least 2743 metres of runway to take off.

Changing winds

The runway chosen for landing and take off is dependent on wind direction. Aircraft generally take off and land into the wind, so the best runway to use depends on wind speeds and direction.

THE LONG SHORT OF IT One of the world’s shortest commercial runways, at just 400 metres, is at Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport on the Caribbean island of Saba. The longest is found at Qamdo Bamda Airport in China, which has a 5500m-long runway to help pilots adjust to the demands of the airport’s high altitude.

THE PLANE WHISPERERS Out of your aircraft window, you may have seen people on the tarmac waving beacons. Aircraft marshalls communicate between pilots in the cockpit and ground personnel, helping to guide aircraft into the correct parking spot or onto the runway. The marshalling signals are a series of internationally recognised arm movements, hence the waving.

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Meet SOM CHAI, with fine dining in a ‘secret’ cavern of ballroom proportions and a bar that hosts nocturnal adventures set to the awesome beats of live DJ’s.

JALAN RAYA KEROBOKAN 86 A KUTA UTARA - BADUNG - BALI - INDONESIA RSVP +62 878 88 66 1945 WWW.SOMCHAIINDONESIA.COM

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SOMCHAIBALI.ID

SOMCHAIBALI_ID

14/11/2017 2:38 PM

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific

Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 6 December (Melbourne-Zhengzhou)*.

Operating on behalf of Australia Comfort Travel Group.

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou

Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang Shantou Guangzhou Hanoi Dong Hoi

Chiang Mai

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Yangon

Okinawa Taipei Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang 134 Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns Townsville

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown *Subject to government and regulatory approval

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Phu Quoc

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Oita Kumamoto

Nha Trang Da Lat

Kagoshima

Miyazaki

Ho Chi Minh City Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 21 December (Narita-Miyazaki)*.

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

135

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon)

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Operated by Jetstar Airways

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Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

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Australian & New Zealand airports

Arriving at our destinations

Heavenly Hamilton Island

How to get from the airport to town 137

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour.

Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12.

Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre.

Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

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TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle.

Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $59 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $49 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor.

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential).

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle.

Adult $21, child $13; return:

14/11/2017 2:41 PM

Australian & New Zealand airports

adult $41, child $21.

Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Hamilton Island

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston

138

15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25 TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon)

25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston. Present your Jetstar boarding pass for a discount on any of these services.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers.

TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: adult $32, child $26, return: $64

Newcastle

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins Approx $130

27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for

136-139_ESSENTIALS_AIRPORT INFO_2.indd 138

additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk.

Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred).

From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles.

Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect.

Tickets $15; return: $30.

Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers.

Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80.

TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22.

TransLink Bus 622.

Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle.

Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins.

Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit.

Adult $18, child $13.

Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18.

Bookings not required.

14/11/2017 2:41 PM

GREAT INDOORS

> GREAT OUTDOORS

PURPOSE DESIGNED BOTTLES FOR EVERY MOMENT Camelbak.com.au | Lower Ground, QVB, Sydney City

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14/11/2017 2:41 PM

jetstar.indd 1 140-145_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 140

8/11/2017 3:51:55 PM 14/11/2017 2:42 PM

1:55 PM

Kids puzzles

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

141

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14/11/2017 2:42 PM

Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 â€œâ€Ś ‌ ‌ nosed reindeer.â€? (7,3,3) 7 What once-popular dessert in a can includes peaches, pears, pineapple and grapes? (5,8) 9 The Sargasso Sea is particularly associated with which animal? (3) 10 1986 film starring David Bowie and directed by Jim Henson. (9) 11 What are peculiar, strange or odd collectable objects? (8) 12 The ‌ is a 1976 horror film starring Lee Remick and Gregory Peck. (4) 14 A underground creature from The Lord of the Rings. (3) 15 What type of journalists are love and hated by artists? (9) 17 What are people with a family relationship? (3) 18 Rapper Vanilla ‌ released â€œâ€Ś ‌, babyâ€? in 1989. (3) 19 A type of evergreen pine tree decorated for Christmas (6) 21 A Christmas carol â€œâ€Ś three kings of Orient are.â€? (2) 23 Another name for the thylacine or Tasmanian tiger? (9,4)

1 What body therapist uses foot massage? (13) 2 What type of red buses are London icons? (6-7) 3 What small terns are also known as sea swallows? (6,5) 4 What feast is celebrated at a MaÂŻori wedding? (6) 5 In mathematics, what can be rational, irrational, algebraic, transcendental, positive, negative, or zero? (4,6) 6 What type of aquatic mammal is Flipper? (7) 8 What spider makes an orb or circular-shaped web? (3-6) 13 What type of warning signal is a lighthouse? (6) 16 The toy from The Elf on the ‌ (2005) book has become a Christmas tradition. (5) 20 What type of joke is “Where do snowmen go to dance? Snowballs.â€?? (3) 22 “With love, from me ‌youâ€?.

The Beatles (1963) (2)

143

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

1

6

/

140-145_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 143

EASY

14/11/2017 2:42 PM

Quiz

QUICK QUIZ Test your knowledge with our Sydney quiz

144

8. In what Sydney suburb would you find The Old Clare hotel and One Central Park?

9. What is the nickname of Sydney’s Harbour Bridge?

10. Which challenging boat race sets off from Sydney on Boxing Day each year?

11. What are the two most widely spoken languages in Sydney, other than English?

12. Which new Sydney suburb is named in honour of a historic Gammeraigal leader?

13. In 2000, Sydney hosted which iconic sporting event?

14. What apple variety was inadvertently invented in Sydney?

15. Which of the following is not a suburb of Sydney?

A) Cockatoo Creek B) Emu Heights C) Kangaroo Point 16. Which New Zealand city is a sister city to Sydney?

1. Found in Sydney’s CBD, what street is reputedly Australia’s oldest?

2. In what year was the first Vivid Festival held?

3. How many tiles cover the sails of the Sydney Opera House?

A) 986,160 B) 1,056,006 C) 1,409,600 4. What did Governor Arthur Phillip originally plan to call the colony of Sydney?

5. Which annual open-air exhibition first started in Bondi Beach in 1997?

6. How many people are estimated to use Sydney’s ferries each year?

A) 2.5 million B) 7 million C) 15 million 7. Which Australian Prime Minister made a historic speech in Redfern in 1992?

3

Count the tiles

14

6

SOLUTIONS

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

5 ( ) / ( ; 2 / 2 * , 6 7

8 ' 2 5 8 % ( / ( ' ' ( 5 & . & ( 5 $ 6

2 / 3 , , 7 & 7 / $ ( , 7 , ( 5 ( , 1 6 3 8 0 $ 1

+ 7 + $ 2 & .

5 $ % < 5 : , ( 6 $ % 9 , ( ( $ 5 8 & 2 , $ 1

( 5 ( 7 $ / , 1 8 2 0 % : ( 5 ( 7 : 2

5 6 + : ( / / ) ( ' 2 , / 3 7 + , ( 1

'

/

0

7

EASY

&

$

8

4

=

6

+ $ 1 2 , 2 / $ : $ 9 ( / ( ( , $ , 1 / ( 7 ( , $ 3 3 $ 5 ( 5 $ 1 = ( 6 7 & ( , 8 1 , 7 3 6 1 * / , 6 7 ( & $ / ( 0 ( 5 * (

(

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$ ' 9 ( 1 ) , ( 7 5 ( 7 ( $ ' 5 ( 0 , 6 * , / 1 $ , 2 0 : + , = % 1 $ / / $ $ < $ 1 & 4 8 (

9 :

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7 8 5 ( 1 ; ( 7 2 3 : 2 6 , 2 1 1 ( 9 ( 1 7 $ 1 * , $ 2 * , & + & * 7 = ( 1 ' 8 & 7

QUIZ ANSWERS 1_George Street 2_2009 3_B) 1,056,006 4_Albion 5_Sculpture by the Sea 6_C) 15 million 7_Paul Keating 8_Chippendale 9_The Coathanger 10_Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race 11_ Arabic and Mandarin 12_ Barangaaroo 13_ The Summer Olympics 14_Granny Smith 15_A) Cockatoo Creek 16_Wellington 140-145_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 144

14/11/2017 2:43 PM

#jetstar

BATTLE READY MOVIE SOUND

PURCHASE A 5.1 KLIPSCH HOME THEATRE PACK AND RECEIVE A BONUS 4K ULTRA HD MOVIE* NEW TO 4K, ULTRA HD, BLU-RAYâ&#x201E;¢, DVD & DIGITAL DOWNLOAD

*Terms and conditions apply, see online or in-store for details

www.klipsch.com.au #jetstar-dec17-klipsch-pota.indd 1 140-145_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 145

7/11/17 11:09 14/11/2017 2:43 am PM

Turn their ‘some day’ into a holiday.

Jetstar Gift Cards in stores now.

• $50 or $100 Gift Cards • Available from leading retailers • Valid for 12 months

These cards can be used on jetstar.com to book flights, or flights plus accommodation/activities in one transaction.

For Australian dollar gift cards, bookings can be made in Australian dollars on our Jetstar Australia site only.

Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243.

20171107_JQ_GiftCard_v2.indd 1 146-147_ESSENTIALS_IFE Opener.indd 146

31/10/17 3:39 pm 14/11/2017 2:44 PM

Movies, TV, music and more I DECEMBER 2017 I Entertainment

Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE! Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available

ONLY

$10

AUD Blockbuster movies TV comedy and drama Kids’ favourites Hit music Games

147

PRE-PURCHASE AND SAVE Purchase inflight entertainment when you book your flight and save 10 per cent!

3:39 pm

146-147_ESSENTIALS_IFE Opener.indd 147

14/11/2017 2:44 PM

© 2017 Disney Enterprises, Inc.

© 2017 Warner Brothers

Dunkirk

Descendants 2

A Ghost Story

The Emoji Movie

ダンケルク

ディセンダント2

ア・ゴースト・ストーリー

ジ・エモジ・ムービー

| 113 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN, ENGCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Christopher Nolan CAST: Tom Hardy, Kenneth Branagh

| 111 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Kenny Ortega CAST: Dove Cameron, Cameron Boyce

| 92 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Tony Leondis CAST: Casey Affleck, Rooney Mara

| 86 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Tony Leondis CAST: T.J. Miller, James Corden

After saving Auradon, happily ever after isn’t as easy as it seems for the Descendants.

Especially if their nemesis Uma has her say about it.

A ghost returns to his suburban home to console his bereft wife, only to find that he has become unstuck in time.

Inside the neverbefore-seen secret world of Textopolis are all of your favorite emojis, hoping to be selected by the phone’s user.

Legendary director Christopher Nolan shifts his focus from fiction to reality in the World War II historical masterpiece Dunkirk. Follow soldiers and civilians from the ground, air and sea as they attempt one of the most heroic wartime rescues in human history. Starring Cillian Murphy, Tom Hardy and Kenneth Branagh and newcomers Fionn Whitehead and Harry Styles, and backed by the musical genius of Hans Zimmer, Dunkirk is a sensory experience not to be missed.

© 2017 Warner Brothers

It

Batman and Harley Quinn

えたら、終わり。

バットマン＆ハーレイ・

IT／イット それ が見

クイン

| 135 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN, ENCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Andy Muschietti CAST: Bill Skarsgård, Finn Wolfhard

| 74 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, ENCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Sam Liu CAST: Kevin Conroy, Loren Lester

When children in the town of Derry begin to disappear, a group of youngsters are faced with their biggest fears. 子供たちが行方不明にな り、少年たちのグループは 恐怖に直面させられる。

LANGUAGES AVAILABLE:

一方、 プレッシャーに耐 えきれなかったマルは、 ロスト島に戻ることに。

Batman and Harley Quinn, alongside Nightwing, reluctantly team up. バットマンとハーレイ・ク インはしぶしぶ手を組 み、 ナイトウィングとも協 力する。

JPN: Japanese

148-159_ESSENTIALS_IFE_DEC17.indd 148

この世を去ったばかりの 男が白いシーツをかぶっ た幽霊になり、郊外の我 が家に戻ってくる。

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

連合軍の兵士たちはドイツ軍に取り囲まれ、 ダンケルク の海岸に取り残されていた。

© 2017 Warner Brothers

148

© 2017 Sony Pictures Animation Inc.

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

CHS: Chinese subtitles

The Glass Castle ザ・グラス・キャッスル

| 127 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Destin Daniel Cretton CAST: Brie Larson, Woody Harrelson

A young girl comes of age in a dysfunctional family with an eccentric artist mother and an alcoholic father who stirs the children’s imagination to distract them from their poverty. 女性が自分なりの方法で 成功することを決意する。

Patti Cake$ PATTI CAKE$

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN, ENCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Geremy Jasper CAST: Danielle Macdonald, Bridget Everett

An unlikely rapper finds her voice as hip-hop legend in the making PATTI CAKE$. ラッパーらしからぬ見た 目の少女が、 ヒップホッ プスターとして唯一無二 の声を持っている自分に 気づく。

スマートフォンの中の見 たことのない秘密を解き 明かそう。

General

全年齢層鑑賞可能

Parental guidance recommended 保護者同伴推奨

Recommended for mature audiences 成人推奨

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

15歳未満非推奨。15歳未満は 保護者または成人の同伴が必要

Restricted to 18 and over 18歳以上観覧可

Check the classification

Check the classification 分類を確認のこと

ENG: English ENS: English subtitles ENCC: English closed captioning

14/11/2017 2:50 PM

201710

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© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

Step

War for the Planet of the Apes

The true-life story of a Baltimore girls’ high-school step team chasing a dream to win a step championship and acceptance into college.

150

『ステップ』 は、 女子高の3 年生のステップダンスチー ムを描く。

Overdrive スクランブル

| 110 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Antonio Negret CAST: Ana De Armas, Scott Eastwood

Exceptional drivers and the world’s best car thieves, Andrew and Garrett Foster land in trouble when they steal the local mafia boss’ priceless Bugatti 1937. 高級車泥棒の兄弟が新し い機会のためにフランスへ 向かう。

猿の惑星：聖戦記 （グレー

ト・ウォー）

| 138 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN, ENCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Matt Reeves CAST: Judy Greer, Woody Harrelson

Caesar and his superintelligent apes are forced into war with an army of humans led by a ruthless Colonel. シーザーと仲間の猿たち は、人間の軍隊との戦い を強いられる。

| 74 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jennifer Peedom CAST: Willem Dafoe

| 87 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Sera Davies CAST: Albert Namatjira

| 110 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Jeffrey Walker CAST: Osamah Sami, Don Hany

A quest for justice takes the Namatjira family from the remote Australian desert to the opulence of Buckingham Palace.

A naive and musically gifted eldest son of a Muslim cleric must follow through with an arranged marriage, despite being in love with another woman.

A collaboration between the Australian Chamber Orchestra and BAFTA-nominated director Jennifer Peedom exploring our obsession with mountains. 『マウンテン』 は、 山脈に 魅了される私たちの素晴 らしい探検なのだ。

ドリーム

ービー

| 104 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN, ENCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Chris McKay CAST: Jenny Slate, Ralph Fiennes

With the changes in Gotham, Batman may have to drop the lone vigilante stance. ゴッサムが変わり、 バット マンは一匹狼の自警団と しての殻を破る。

148-159_ESSENTIALS_IFE_DEC17.indd 150

Ali’s Wedding

アリーズ・ウェディング

The LEGO Batman Movie

レゴバットマン ザ・ム

Namatjira Project ナマジラ・プロエクト

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

| 84 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, ENCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Amanda Lipitz CAST: Paula Dofat, Blessin Giraldo

Mountain

マウンテン

© 2017 Warner Brothers

ステップ

Hidden Figures | 128 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN, ENCC & CHS DIRECTOR: Theodore Melfi CAST: Taraji P. Henson, Octavia Spencer

An elite team of black female mathematicians at NASA help the US win the space race, in the process sending the quest for equal rights rocketing forwards. 国を変えた女性たちを描 いた実話。

『ナマジラ・プロジェク ト』 は、探求するナマジ ラ一家の姿を追う物語 である。

イスラム聖職者の長男 が、 お見合い結婚を余儀 なくされる。

© 2015 Warner Brothers

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Dolly Parton’s Coat of Many Colors

ドリー・パートンズ・コー

ト・オブ・メニー・カ…

| 81 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Stephen Herek CAST: Alyvia Alyn Lind, Jennifer Nettles

The Adventurers ザ・アドベンチャーズ

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: CHS & ENS DIRECTOR: Stephen Fung CAST: Andy Lau, Shu Qi

The Parton family discovers the healing power of love, faith and a patchwork coat.

After three years in prison for a heist gone wrong, sophisticated burglar Dan enlists his longtime partner Po and new recruit Red to steal priceless jewels.

パートン一家は惨めな 悲劇を乗り越えようと もがく。

カンヌ映画祭の開催中、 ある泥棒が2つの非常に 高価な宝石を盗む。

14/11/2017 2:51 PM

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犯です-

| 118 mins LANGUAGE: JPN & ENS DIRECTOR: Yu Irie CAST: Tatsuya Fujiwara, Hideaki Ito

ホーム・アローン2

| 111 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Chris Columbus CAST: Macaulay Culkin, Joe Pesci

家に取り残されてから1年 後、 ケビンはニューヨーク にいる。

After finally defeating his good-guy nemesis Metro Man, supervillain Megamind loses his life’s purpose and decides to seek out a new superhero foe. 悪の天才、 メガマインド はついに宿敵のスーパ ーヒーロー、 メトロマン を倒す。

© 2003 Universal Studios. © 2003 WT Venture LLC.

連続殺人犯だと主張する 男性が回顧録の出版を発 表する。

| 95 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Tom McGrath CAST: Brad Pitt, Will Ferrell

© 2014 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

When the statute of limitations on a cold case expires, a man claiming to be the serial killer resurfaces.

After Kevin McCallister loses track of his father at the airport, the boy mistakenly gets on a plane bound for New York City.

Megamind

How To Train Your Dragon

How To Train Your Dragon 2

ラブ・アクチュアリー

ヒックとドラゴン

ヒックとドラゴン2

| 98 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Dean DeBlois, Chris Sanders CAST: Jay Baruchel, Gerard Butler

| 101 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Dean DeBlois CAST: Jay Baruchel, America Ferrera

When unpopular teen Hiccup is included in Dragon Training with the other Viking teens, he sees his chance to prove his worth.

Five years after they first united dragons and Vikings, Hiccup and Toothless chart new terrain.

バイキングのティーンエ イジャー、 ヒックは、 ドラ ゴンと友達になる。

ヒックと従順なドラゴ ンのトゥースは、解決の 糸口を求めて空へと飛 び立つ。

148-159_ESSENTIALS_IFE_DEC17.indd 152

Love, Actually | 128 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Richard Curtis CAST: Hugh Grant, Bill Nighy

From the UK Prime Minister to a sandwich delivery guy, this film follows 10 intertwining love stories set in the lead-up to Christmas.

10のそれぞれに違う、だ が微妙に絡み合う愛の 物語が、 クリスマスイブ に大きなクライマックス を迎える。

Elf

エルフ ∼サンタの国から

© 2007 DreamWorks Animation, LLC and Aardman Animations Ltd.

© 2003 Warner Brothers

メガマインド

© 2010 DreamWorks Animation L.L.C.

152

Home Alone 2 : Lost in New York

Flushed Away

マウス・タウン ロディと

やってきた∼

リタの大冒険

| 97 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jon Favreau CAST: Will Ferrell, James Caan

| 85 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: David Bowers, Sam Fell CAST: Hugh Jackman, Kate Winslet

A human baby, accidentally raised at the North Pole and who has grown up believing he is an elf, is sent on a mission by Kris Kringle to find his family. 人間の赤ん坊は、北極で 自分はエルフだと信じて 育った。

An uptown rat flushed down the toilet from the penthouse apartment where he lives has to learn a new way of life in the sewers of London. トイレに流された都会 のネズミの物語。

© 1985 Warner Brothers

22年目の告白 -私が殺人

© 2010 DreamWorks Animation LLC.

Memoirs of a Murderer (Japan)

© 1992 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Mad Max: Beyond Thunderdome

マッドマックス／サンダ ードーム

| 107 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: George Miller CAST: Mel Gibson, Bruce Spence

Max becomes a gladiator after drifting into an evil town that is ruled by Turner. ターナーが統治する悪 の町にやってきたマック スは、 グラディエーター となる。

Phar Lap ファーラップ

| 118 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Simon Wincer CAST: Tom Burlinson, Richard Morgan

The true story of an Australian racehorse that became a champion with the help of a local stableboy. 地元の馬の世話係の少 年の助けを借りてチャ ンピオンとなるオースト ラリアの競走馬を描い た実話。

14/11/2017 2:51 PM

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14/11/2017 2:51 PM

Entertainment I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

COMEDY SERIES

22 mins per episode, Season 13

三銃士

A subversive animated comedy presents the everyday trials of family life.

22 mins per episode, Season 5

家族の生活における日々の苦難 を描く破壊的なアニメコメディ。

The Big Bang Theory* ビッグバン★セオリー

22 mins per episode, Season 10

When Penny moves in across the hall from Leonard and Sheldon, two gifted but socially awkward best friends, she befriends the brainy duo and teaches them about life outside the lab. ペニーは、社会スキルが欠けて いる隣人たちに研究室の外の 世界を教える。

Modern Family** モダン・ファミリー

22 mins per episode, Season 8

Follow the comical exploits of three ‘modern families’. Phil and Claire struggle to keep up with three kids, Claire’s brother and his partner adopt a little girl, and Claire’s dad is married to the feisty Gloria.

3つのモダンな家族を描くコメ ディードラマ。

People of Earth* ピープル・オブ・アース

22 mins per episode, Season 2

People of Earth follows a reporter investigating a group of alien abductees. エイリアン拉致被害者のグル ープを調査するレポーターの 姿を描く。

148-159_ESSENTIALS_IFE_DEC17.indd 154

An ensemble comedy centering on an offbeat girl, who, after a bad breakup, moves in with three single guys, changing all their lives in unexpected ways. 独身男3人が暮らすアパート に引っ越してきたちょっと変 わった女の子を軸に描くコメ ディー。

Futurama

***

フューチュラマ

Prison Break

This Is Us

45 mins per episode, Season 5

45 mins per episode, Season 1

An all-new series based on the hit action drama Prison Break that features the original cast in a nine-part thrilling escape across the globe to save one of their own.

A refreshingly honest and provocative series that follows a unique ensemble whose life stories intertwine in curious ways and questions assumptions about the people they know.

プリズン・ブレイク

大ヒットドラマ 『プリズン・ブレ イク』 を元にした新シリーズ。 オ リジナルキャストが世界を股 にかけて仲間を救うためにス リリングな9つの逃亡劇を繰り 広げる。

フレッシュ・オフ・ザ・ボート

22 mins per episode, Season 2

It’s the ’90s and 12-year-old, hip hop-loving Eddie has just moved with his parents and brothers to suburban Orlando from Chinatown in Washington D.C. It’s a culture shock for his immigrant family in this comedy about pursuing the American Dream.

1990年代を舞台に、郊外に引 っ越してきたばかりの12歳の ヒップホップ大好き少年エディ ーを描く。

Queen Sugar*

クイーン・シュガー

Queen Sugar chronicles the lives and loves of the estranged Bordelon siblings.

After a family tragedy, the siblings relocate to the Deep South to run an ailing sugarcane farm and navigate their complicated lives.

Fry is a pizza delivery man accidentally cryogenically frozen in 1999. He wakes up 1000 years later to a brave new world – that in some ways hasn’t progressed much beyond the 20th century.

Fresh Off the Boat****

3人の人生が絡み合う姿を描

くありのままのドラマ。

45 mins per episode, Season 1

22 mins per episode, Season 7

1999年、 フライは誤って極 低温貯蔵で冷凍されてしま い、1000年後に目覚める。

THIS IS US 36歳、 これから

DC’s Legends Of Tomorrow*

DCレジェンズ・オブ・トゥモ

ロー

45 mins per episode, Season 2

Rip Hunter travels back in time to the 21st century where he brings together a new team of heroes and villains. Everyone must come together in an attempt to prevent the immortal Vandal Savage from destroying the world and time itself. リップ・ハンターは新しいチー ムをまとめ上げるために過去 に戻る。

疎遠になっていたボーデロン 兄弟姉妹の人生と愛を年代記

として記す。

Animal Kingdom*

アニマル・キングダム

45 mins per episode, Season 2

A teenager moves in with his freewheeling relatives in a Southern California beach town after his mother’s death. Drawn into their life of excess, he soon discovers joining the family comes with more danger than he might be ready to handle. この家族犯罪ドラマは、浜辺の 町に引っ越すティーンエイジャ ーを描く。

*THE BIG BANG THEORY, PEOPLE OF EARTH, DC’S LEGENDS OF TOMORROW, QUEEN SUGAR, ANIMAL KINGDOM © WARNER BROTHERS **MODERN FAMILY © 2016-2017 AMERICAN BROADCASTING COMPANIES. ***FUTURAMA © 2008 TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM CORPORATION. ****FRESH OFF THE BOAT © 2015-2016 AMERICAN BROADCASTING COMPANIES.

NEW GIRL∼ダサかわ女子と

© 2016-2017 NBCUniversal Media, LLC.

© 2016 Fox and its related entities

New Girl

© 2017 Fox and its related entities

© 2013 Fox and its related entities

Family Guy ファミリー・ガイ

154

DRAMA SERIES

14/11/2017 2:53 PM

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14/11/2017 2:54 pm PM 8/11/17 4:33

Entertainment I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

First Class

ファースト・クラス

25 mins per episode, Season 2

Billed as China’s Hawaii, billions of dollars are being spent to transform Hainan into one of the world’s top tourist hotspots. So when it comes to luxury, what does the tropical island have to offer? First Class has the insider’s guide to the island.

BBCラジオ1のビッグウィーク

エンド2017

60 mins per episode

Radio 1’s Big Weekend returns for its 14th year even bigger and better. ラジオ1のビッグウィークエンド は、14年目にしてさらに盛大か つ素晴らしくなって帰ってきた。

Trailblazers

ファースト・クラスは、海南 の事情通による情報をお届 けする。

トレイルブレーザーズ

Running Wild with Bear Grylls

Host Tania Bryer travels the world to meet well-known people in the cities that they love and hear their stories.

ランニング・ワイルド・ウィズ・ ベア・グリルス

45 mins per episode, Season 3

British adventurer Bear Grylls takes A-list celebrities on a one-on-one 48-hour outdoor survival adventure to some of the world’s wildest and most remote areas, pushing them beyond their comfort zones in the process. ベア・グリルスが一流セレブを 一対一の48時間アウトドアア ドベンチャーに連れ出す。

26 mins per episode, Season 1

ホストのタニア・ブライヤーが 世界中を旅し、世界的な伝説 的人物と会い、彼らが愛する 街に関する物語を聞く。

KIDS

ザ・ジェットソンズ＆WWE：

ロボ・レッスルマニア

81 mins per episode

It’s a futuristic face-off in this all-new animated feature with the Jetsons. 新アニメが描くのは、 ジェットソン ズの斬新な対決の物語である。

Stuck in the Middle*

ペッパ・ピッグ

ハーレーはド真ん中

23 mins per episode

30 mins per episode

Follow the adventures of Peppa, her family and friends.

Harley Diaz navigates everyday life with a notso-average-sized family.

『ペッパ・ピッグ』 は、 ペッパと彼女 の家族と友人たちの冒険を描く。

The Lion Guard* ライオン・ガード

27 mins per episode

Kion, second-born cub of Simba and Nala, becomes the leader of the Lion Guard. シンバとナラの第二子であるカイ オンは、 ライオン・ガードのリーダ ーとなった。

Star Wars Rebels* スター・ウォーズ 反乱者たち

23 mins per episode

A few brave individuals band together in resistance. 数人の勇敢な者たちが反乱者た ちとして団結する。

悪魔バスター★スター・バタフライ

The Jetsons & WWE: Robo-Wrestlemania

148-159_ESSENTIALS_IFE_DEC17.indd 156

Peppa Pig

Star vs. the Forces of Evil* © Warner Brothers

156

BBC Radio 1’s Big Weekend 2017

25 mins per episode

A fugitive princess from another dimension takes refuge on Earth. 異次元からやってきた逃亡中の プリンセスが、地球に逃げ込む。

Casper’s First Christmas** キャスパーのクリスマス

25 mins per episode

ハーレー・ディアスが大家族と 送る毎日を描くドラマ。

Batman: Return of the Caped Crusaders** バットマン：リターン・オブ・ザ・ケイ

プド・クル…

72 mins per episode

It’s back to the 1960s as Batman and Robin spring into action. 時代は1960年代に り、 バッ トマンとロビンが素早く行動 に移る。

A Flintstones Christmas Carol** 原始家族フリントストーンのクリス

マスキャロル

70 mins per episode

Fred stars as Ebenezer Scrooge in the Bedrock Community Players production. ベッドロック・コミュニティ・プレ ーヤーズの劇で、 フレッドは主役 のエベネーザ・スクルージ役を 演じる。

Scooby-Doo! Shaggy’s Showdown** スクービー・ドゥー！ シャギーズ・シ

ョーダウン

72 mins per episode

On Christmas Eve, Hairy persuades Casper to join him in a search for new haunts.

The Scooby Gang visits a dude ranch and discovers it has been haunted.

クリスマスイブ、ヘアリーはキャス パーに新しいオバケを一緒に探 すよう説得する。

観光牧場を訪れたスクービー・ ドゥーと仲間たちは、牧場が呪 われていることを知る。

*THE LION GUARD, STAR WARS REBELS, STAR VS. THE FORCES OF EVIL © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. **CASPER’S FIRST CHRISTMAS, BATMAN: RETURN OF THE CAPED CRUSADERS, A FLINTSTONES CHRISTMAS CAROL, SCOOBY-DOO! SHAGGY’S SHOWDOWN © WARNER BROTHERS

© Disney Enterprises, Inc.

LIFESTYLE & REALITY

14/11/2017 2:54 PM

2017 Fj

PUT ME UNDER THE TREE.

A gift to last generations.

Same shape. Same simple design. Same logo. Since it’s launch in 1978 the humble Kånken has made Christmas wishes come true around the world for almost 40 years. It’s the world’s first climate compensated backpack and its timeless design has never fallen out of fashion. This year, give a gift that will last generations, on nature’s terms. Available in over 40 colours at fjallraven.com.au

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8/11/2017 11:49 AM 14/11/2017 2:54 PM

Entertainment I AUDIO/GAMES I Available on 787 seatback screens

ALBUMS

PODCASTS & RADIO

Tigerlily

P!NK Beautiful Trauma P!NK ビューティフル・トラウマ

Miley Cyrus Younger Now マイリー・サイラス ヤンガー・ナウ

Anthony Callea ARIA Number 1 Hits in Symphony アンソニー・カリア アリア・ナンバー 1ヒッツ・イン・シンフォニー

Midnight Oils Essential Oils – The Great Circle Tour Edition 158

Tigerlily Ashes

“The Big Questions” Adam Spencer「ザ・ビッグ・クエスチョン

Kinderling Conversation

タイガーリリー アッシズ

ズ」 アダム・スペンサー

Kungs ft. Olly Murs & Coely More Mess

“PukaUp” Wayne Schwass

プ・ポッドキャスト

クングス ft. オリー・マーズ＆

コーリー モア・メス

Lorde Green Light/Perfect Places Medley (Live)

ロード グリーン・ライト／パーフェク

ミッドナイト・オイル エッセンシャ

ト・プレイス・メドレー （ライブ）

ル・ツア…

Hilltop Hoods & Sia I love it

ル・オイルズ - ザ・グレイト・サーク

Foo Fighters Concrete & Gold

フー・ファイターズ コンクリート＆ ゴールド

ヒルトップ・フッズ＆シーア アイ・ラヴ・イット

Vera Blue Mended ベラ・ブルー メンディッド

MUSIC VIDEOS

Penelope Austin Gem ペネロペ・オースティン ジェム

The Preatures Yanada ザ・プリーチュラーズ ヤナダ Taylor Swift

Taylor Swift

Sam Smith Too good at goodbyes サム・スミス トゥー・グッド・アッ

Look what you made me do

ト・グッドバイズ

ット・ユー・メイド・ミー・ドゥー

The Living End Keep on running

テイラー・スウィフト ルック・ホワ

Imagine Dragons Thunder イマジン・ドラゴンズ サンダー

LANY Super Far

レイニー スーパー・ファー

Tkay Maidza Follow Me ティーケイ・マイザ フォロー・ミー

148-159_ESSENTIALS_IFE_DEC17.indd 158

Peking Duk

ザ・リビング・エンド キープ・オン・

ランニング

Beck Up All Night ベック アップ・オール・ナイト

Powderfinger The Metre

パウダーフィンガー ザ・メートル

「プカアップ」 ウェイン・シュワス

“A Plate to Call Home” Gary Mehigan 「ア・プレート・トゥ・コ ール・ホーム」 ゲイリー・メヒガン

“The Next Billion Seconds” Mark Pesce 「ザ・ネクスト・ビリ オン・セカンズ」 マーク・ペシ

ChangeMakers with Amanda Tattersall 「チェンジ

メーカーズ」 アマンダ・タッターサル

Chrissy, Sam & Browny クリッシー、サム＆ブラウニー・ポッ ドキャスト

Fitzy & Wippa フィッツィー＆ウィ ッパ・ポッドキャスト

Kate, Tim & Marty ケイト、ティ

キンダリング・カンバセーションズ

We Fact Up ウィ・ファクト・アッ The Slow Home ザ・スロー・ホー ム・ポッドキャスト

The Property Couch ザ・プロパ

ティ・コーチ

NOVA Hear the freshest hits on NOVA, hosted by Smallzy. オーストラリアからスマルジーが最 新ヒット曲をお届けします。

Smooth FM Chill out to these favourites. イージーリスニングプログラム。

GAMES

ム＆マーティー・ポッドキャスト

The Grill Team ザ・グリル・チー ム・ポッドキャスト

Merrickville with Merrick Watts メリックビル・ウィズ・メリッ

ク・ワッツ

The Hot Breakfast ザ・ホット・

ブレックファスト・ポッドキャスト

Fifi, Fev & Byron フィフィ、デイ ヴ＆フェヴ・ポッドキャスト

The Em Rusciano Radio Show with Harley Breen ザ・エム・ルチアーノ・ラジオショー・

Tetris

テトリス

Chess

チェス

Bejeweled 2 Blackjack

ビジュエルド２

ブラックジャック

Disney’s Classic Games

ウィズ・ハーレー・ブリーン

ズニークラシックゲーム

Carrie & Tommy キャリー＆トミ

Golf Open

ゴルフゲーム

Hangman

ハングマン

MemoPics

メモリーゲーム

ー・ポッドキャスト

The Kyle & Jackie O Show カイル＆ジャッキーO・ポッドキャスト

The Pass Food Podcast ザ・パス・フード・ポッドキャスト

S.U.D.O.K.U. Solitaire

ディ

数独 (SUDOKU)

ソリティア

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Backpage I TRAVEL TALES

Tree of treasures Christmas trinkets are a reminder of happy days, and new decorations continue the tradition WORDS PENNY WATSON

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As the years go by, the decorations have taken on a life of their own...

wrapped in swaddling clothes, travel souvenirs from Peru that dangle alongside dancing dragons from Hong Kong, and hand-painted dolls from India.

There are baubles the size of pomegranates from my English inlaws, and exquisite glass danglers – stars, boots and bells – that I pick up cheaply in the weeks following Christmas.

There’s a papier-mâché nativity scene in a

miniature cup and some white polystyrene booties my grandparents – still alive at 95 – once hung on their family tree.

Every Christmas something extra attaches itself. Silver Champagne bottle wrappers fashioned into loops compete with tinsel for glitz. Curly red and silver ribbon recycled into pretty bows that tie nicely onto the ends of smaller branches. Even novelty bonbon trinkets – key rings and bottle

openers – have somehow ended up amid the foliage.

Recently, my two children have added their own creations. They’re the real heart-tuggers, all that love bundled up in decorations that will reappear among the twinkling lights year after year. The more crowded it gets, the more love it gives. And if that’s not a nice little metaphor for Christmas then I don’t know what is.

ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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MY VERY FIRST Christmas tree, purchased as a young adult, was a plastic faux pine number in a tacky red pot with two small pine cones glued to the branches.

It was purchased tonguein-cheek, but managed to hang around a few seasons.

Then I grew up a bit and got a real one, and though a gum tree is far more appropriate for an Aussie Christmas, it’s hard to go past that pine-tree tradition. Each year a new version goes up, its uppermost needles tickling the ceiling, its branches laden with shiny, glittery magic.

The tree ritual is part tradition, part decoration, part festive spirit, but that’s not all it is. It is slowly evolving into something far more special: a receptacle of memories perhaps? A living, breathing treasure trove of Christmases past?

As the years go by, the decorations have taken on a life of their own, each with little stories to tell. The pine cones from my first tree have been re-attached with colourful ribbon.

Handmade pottery bells have the initials of nieces and nephews etched on the back. There are four hand-knitted babies

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A THAILAND TOURISM PROMOTION Thailand

5 SHORT ESCAPES BANGKOK BUZZ PHUKETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FLIPSIDE SIAM WEDDINGS

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Thailand

contents THAILAND 3 I NEWS & EVENTS What’s new in the Land of Smiles

4 I SHORT ESCAPES Easy Bangkok getaways

7 I BANGKOK BUZZ There’s change afoot in Thailand’s capital

11 I PHUKET Discover a new side to Phuket

14 I DESTINATION WEDDINGS

PHOTOGRAPHY NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

Saying “I do” in Thailand

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Thailand I NEWS

Loi krathong

Events & news Where to stay and play on your next Thai adventure

Save the date…

Rest up like a royal A swathe of big-name hotel groups has recently set their sights on Thailand. The Rosewood Phuket brings a new level of luxury to the coast, with W Retreat Phuket following hot on its heels early next year. Well-heeled tourists drawn by Bangkok’s increasingly cosmopolitan vibe can now bed down at Park Hyatt Bangkok (pictured) and visitors to Koh Samui can look forward to an indulgent stay on the island’s luxe Ritz-Carlton.

CHINESE NEW YEAR 16 February Bangkok’s Chinese community throws a party in Yaowarat.

SONGKRAN 13-15 April Thai new year makes a splash with an epic national water fight.

LAGUNA PHUKET MARATHON 9-10 June With around 8,000 runners from more than 50 countries, the marathon has put Phuket on the map as a world-class sports tourism destination.

LOI KRATHONG 22 November This haunting festival of lights illuminates the entire country.

PHOTOGRAPHY PARK HYATT BANGKOK, MANDARIN ORIENTAL BANGKOK

FATHER’S DAY 5 December The streets of Bangkok fill in honour of the late King of Thailand.

Tuck in

A healing hiatus

Bangkok’s fine-dining scene is reaching new heights. In Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017, Gaggan Anand’s eatery Gaggan secured its third straight year in the top spot. At number five was another Bangkok institution, Nahm, whose Aussie expat chef David Thompson has embraced the taste of Thailand. eatatgaggan.com comohotels.com/ metropolitanbangkok

Over the past few years, Thailand has become increasingly popular with wellness warriors hoping to kickstart their health in spas and retreats.

Not one, but two Thai hotel spas made Condé Nast Traveller’s Spa Awards 2017 – the luxury beach resort Amanpuri and the iconic urban oasis Mandarin Oriental Bangkok (pictured right). Opulent Hua Hin destination spa The Barai now offers a series of lifestyle retreats including yoga, fitness and detoxing programs. But you can also still indulge in a traditional day spa. Just outside of Phuket, Thanyapura Sports & Health Resort is one of the largest of its kind in Asia, complete with an Olympic pool, Muay Thai ring, six tennis courts and programs geared for fitness fanatics. aman.com/resorts/amanpuri; mandarinoriental.com/bangkok; thebarai.com; thanyapura.com 3

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Thailand

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Out of Bangkok

Just beyond Thailand’s busy capital lies ancient cities, beach resorts and national parks WORDS MITCH BROOK

Discover a kingdom of culture Once one of the largest cities in the world, cultured Ayutthaya remains home to beautiful architecture such as temples, monasteries and reliquaries.

Wat Ratchaburana has a crypt you can enter (watch for bats) and Wat Phra Si Sanphet offers a good vantage point. The best sites are in the Ayutthaya Historical Park, easily explored by bike. Get there via train (about an hour and a half) from Bangkok Main Railway Station or take a leisurely river boat.

2. HUA HIN: Beachside bliss Hua Hin is one of Thailand’s most popular beach areas with plenty of restaurants offering seafood feasts. For a more laid-back experience, nearby Cha-Am is less flashy and more local. Away from the beach, you can go mountain biking or visit Monsoon Valley Vineyard.

Nearby Vana Nava Water Park offers rides and slides. Buses take about three and a half hours and depart regularly from Bangkok’s Sai Tai Mai terminal.

3. KHAO YAI: Have a wild encounter Khao Yai, established in 1962, was Thailand’s first national

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park. Visitors can see wildlife including macaques, barking deer, hornbill birds, otters and elephants. Rent camping sites, see scenic waterfalls or hike through the park. Book a tour or take a bus to Pak Chong from Bangkok’s Mo-Chit terminal, then a mini-bus or taxi (about three and a half hours all up).

4. DOK KRAI: Get a burst of adrenaline Take a break by going wakeboarding. The folk at Otzki Wake Camp, one and a half hours from Bangkok, suggest a stay in one of their six lakeside bungalows as a wellness retreat. Pay per night or purchase a package that might include meals, bed, wakeboarding, yoga, paddleboarding or massages.

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5. KANCHANABURI: Buff up your WWII knowledge History buffs should head to Kanchanaburi, the site of the infamous Death Railway built

by Allied POWs during WWII. Parts of the main bridge (over the River Kwai) are intact, and the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum and Walking Trail offers insight into the conflict.

Trains depart twice daily from Bangkok’s Thonburi train Station.

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That takes balance

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, GETTY, OTZKI WAKE CAMP

1. AYUTTHAYA:

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Thailand I BANGKOK

Bangkok buzz FROM HISTORIC TRADING PORT TO SOUTH-EAST ASIA’S UNDISPUTED CAPITAL OF COOL — THERE’S CHANGE AFOOT IN THE THAI CAPITAL WORDS PAUL EWART

BANGKOK IS THE beating heart of Thailand, but a mere 400 years ago it was a small port village on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. After the fall of Ayutthaya (the former capital of the country, then called Siam), at the end of the 18th century, the unassuming spot began its meteoric journey to heaving metropolis.

Today the City of Angels, home to a population of almost 10 million, is fast becoming one of the world’s most exciting destinations, thanks to its eclectic food scene, renowned nightlife and array of shopping options. In short, Bangkok is buzzing. And thanks to a raft of pioneering young-gun artists, restaurateurs, chefs and mixologists, the city is daily adding new reasons to visit.

Forget one night in Bangkok, you’ll need a good few weeks to take it all in.

PHOTOGRAPHY SING SING THEATRE, GAGGAN, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

A culinary revolution International food bible the Michelin Guide has confirmed an edition dedicated to the Thai capital, a city obsessed with eating, is imminent. There are a few obvious contenders for the coveted stars, but a sure-fire recipient will be Gaggan, the restaurant that took this year’s top spot in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards (for the third year running).

The high-end eatery is just one of many catering to the increased appetite of the rapidly emerging middle class, which is happy to cough up big baht for a quality dining experience.

Other examples include Paste (named best fine-dining

Thai restaurant in the Time Out Bangkok Love Awards 2016) and the new Insects in the Backyard, which gives bugs – a staple in the country’s markets – a gourmet twist. The proteinpacked menu at the quirky hotspot includes seven different insects, such as crickets, silkworms and caterpillars.

One of the hippest spaces, theCOMMONS, is a highly anticipated eco-friendly mall filled with artisan cafés and eateries. It’s divided into four sections, with standout residents including Roots Coffee Roaster – which sources great beans from local Thai growers – international artisan bakery, Maison Jean Philippe, and traditional Thai bakery and deli, Sri Thai Delicatessen.

EAT HERE

Gaggan The most lauded restaurant in the city is famous for its set 22-course Gaggan Experience menu of reinterpreted classic Indian cuisine. It has also appealed to social-media lovers by unveiling a menu written using only emojis.

THAILAND Bangkok

Street eats When it comes to maximising the foodie bang for your Bangkok buck, street food still rules. Thai street food is regularly cited in polls as the world’s best, so if you want to get your street food kicks, head to Chinatown. It’s still one of the city’s best destinations for a walking degustation dinner and you can try everything from wok-fried noodles and curry, to satay and roast duck — and all for next to nix.

There’s great street food to be found throughout the city.

Head to the market districts of Banglamphu, Wang Lang, Nang Loeng or Talat Phlu for the city’s famously delicious food.

Sing Sing Theatre

Drink up Rooftop bars are something of a specialty in Bangkok and there’s much to be said 7

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Thailand I BANGKOK

Best views in Bangkok

DRINK THIS

for soaking up the sparkling cityscape on a balmy evening, cocktail in hand.

Sky Bar rooftop at Lebua State Tower is still one of the most popular, despite an explosion of new venues. The 63-storey-high spot boasts views of the Chao Phraya River, and its on-site restaurant, Sirocco, is the highest alfresco restaurant in the world.

Other favourites include Cru Champagne Bar on the top of CentralWorld in Pathum Wan, Above Eleven in Sukhumvit, and the world’s highest outdoor whisky bar, Alfresco 64, offering whisky degustations with a view.

Suffer from vertigo? Fear not. There are plenty of great drinking dens on ground level.

Visit Backstage Cocktail Bar – run

by Thailand’s 2017 Diageo World Class best bartender Ronnaporn “Neung” Kanivichaporn – for handcrafted cocktails and signature classics with a twist.

At Namsaah Bottling Trust, off Silom Road, DJs spin beats and bartenders get their flare on, but the ingenious drinks menu is the real showstopper. For taste and

theatrics in equal measure, order the Mekhong Zombie, delivered to your table by a blow-torch-wielding waiter in a zombie mask.

Be sure to check out the portfolio of bars and nightspots designed by Bangkok’s nightlife king and Australian expat, Ashley Sutton. Ashley is one of the driving forces behind the transformation of the city’s bar scene over the past decade and his fantastical vintage creations include Chinese brothel themed barcum-club, Sing Sing Theater, 1930s-inspired gin distillery Iron Balls and late-night ‘speakeasy’ Maggie Choo’s.

Shop ‘til you drop Tourists can still get a glimpse of the famed floating markets of yesteryear, but Bangkokians now get their fix at the city’s many super-malls.

Bangkok’s landscape is dominated by skyscrapers packed with shopping malls.

The largest malls in Bangkok are clustered

One of the most recent marriages of old and new on the bar scene is the revolution of traditional Thai moonshine, Ya dong.

It’s a potent liquor infused with medicinal herbs and sold at street stalls for a pittance. In the past few years this spirit has gone upscale, migrating from the streets to the inner-city hipster bars.

within a fairly small area.

CentralWorld is the biggest.

Sukhumvit’s EmQuartier, which opened in 2015 as an extension to its sister mall, Emporium, across the street, is the place for label-lovers. Siam Discovery is a striking retail space with a lifestyle laboratory theme that includes giant test tubes and lab equipment.

Thonburi’s Chang Chui is a retro paradise with stores selling vintage decor and quirky fashion, and has become a hangout for the city’s hipster and art-loving population.

And for great clothing and accessories bargains, head to Platinum Fashion Mall in Petchburi Road.

Old dogs, new tricks The bright young things of

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: The Sky Bar, Namsaah, creative plates at Insects in the Backyard.

Bangkok are moving into established neighbourhoods and injecting a serious dose of cool as they open contemporary art galleries and trendy coffee houses alongside 19th century temples and traditional shophouses.

See this metamorphosis in action in areas such as Chinatown’s Nana, where performance spaces and galleries pepper traditional shopfronts. The one-time working-class area of Thonglor is now also full of trendy pop-up shops and restaurants.

Perhaps the biggest contrast can be seen in Rattanakosin (the Old City), which houses the main historic attractions of Bangkok but also has a steadily opening population of inventive galleries, bars and eateries.

From old Siam to new Bangkok, the evolution continues. With one foot in the past and one firmly in the present, no matter how many times you visit, there’s always something new to discover in this ever-changing metropolis.

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Thailand I PHUKET

THAILAND Bangkok

Phuket

Phuket’s flipside FORGO THE PARTYING AND BUSY BEACHES – THERE’S AN ALTERNATIVE SIDE TO THIS THAI HOLIDAY IDYL WORDS PAUL EWART

cycling and Pilates, standup paddle boarding or aqua personal training) to leave you feeling and looking like new.

The hotel also houses a 2000 square-metre destination spa, which includes the world’s first Thai Hamman.

PHOTOGRAPHY KATA ROCKS, AMATARA, TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND,ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Haute hotels If you are after a luxury hotel experience, some of the best include seven-bedroom luxury villa The Aquila, with a private chef, its own waterfall and private secluded cove, and the relative newcomer Wyndham Grand Phuket Kalim Bay offering private six or nine-metre infinity pools.

And for serious high rollers, five-star hotel, Kata Rocks, hosts the annual Superyacht Rendezvous event.

PHUKET’S COASTLINE of white sand beaches and postcardperfect craggy rock formations are easily the reason it’s referred to as the Pearl of the Andaman Sea. Thailand’s largest island has long lured travellers seeking a dose of sun and sand. But there’s more to this isle than golden beaches and a tropical climate. Dig deep and you’ll unearth an array of great experiences. Discover street art and history, wildlife encounters and fantastic foodie fare for an alternative Phuket experience.

movie, The Beach in 2000), but Phuket Sail Tours avoids the usual haunts and takes guests to hidden lagoons, deserted beaches and stalagmite- and stalactite-filled sea caves.

Island hop

Be a culture vulture

You can still escape the crowds, despite the prolific number of tourists. For deserted coves and palm-fringed, beaches, cast off to one of the 200 or so islands off the coastline.

These scarcely populated isles are easily accessed by renting a wooden long-tail or speed boat, or joining a tour.

Most tourists make a beeline for James Bond Island and Phi Phi (the latter became a stop on the backpacker trail after being used as a location for

You can’t find many signs of it while blissing out on the beach, but Phuket has a rich and varied history.

Join one of the heritage trails operated by Phuket City Tours to get an introduction into the culturally rich island. The halfday tours guide visitors through colourful Sino-Portugese architecture, street art, temples and traditional shophouses, and allow them to get up close with locals who embody the country’s tourism catchphrase, “the land of smiles”.

FROM TOP: Kata Rocks resort, Thai massage at Amatara, Phuket views.

New year, new you

Into the deep

Combat seasonal overindulgence and welcome in 2018 with a full body detox at Phuket’s premium wellness resort, Amatara. Try a tailored healthy holiday experience that includes a personalised eating plan (including rejuvenating juice cleanses), a program of holistic therapies and an exercise plan (think yoga, TRX,

Head north-west by boat and you’ll eventually hit the pristine Similan Islands. The clear turquoise waters are consistently ranked in the top 10 diving locations in the world. The most famous is Richelieu Rock, where you can swim with whale sharks and turtles, seahorses, leopard sharks and more.

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Thailand I PHUKET

Street eats in Phuket.

LEFT: A happy giant at Phuket Elephant Sanctuary,

Gentle Thai giants TASTY TEACHINGS Want a glimpse into local culture and a high-intensity workout in one? Try the ancient martial art of Muay Thai (Thai boxing).

It’s the national sport and popular with locals and foreigners alike. Phuket is home to the world’s biggest training centre, Tiger Muay Thai. The camp, situated in Chalong, attracts thousands of students from far and wide, catering for the world’s elite along with complete novices.

Tempt your tastebuds After all that detoxing and exercise, you’ll be in need of sustenance. Thai food is lauded the world over, but Phuket is a bona fide gourmet capital.

UNESCO has labelled it a City of Gastronomy due to its melting pot of Chinese, Malay, Indian and Thai cuisine. Taste the island’s unique culinary palette on a walking degustation around the Old Town with Phuket Food Tours.

Best brews South-east Asia (Thailand included) is an established coffee producer. Taste your way around the many new hip coffee shops that are popping up across Phuket.

Don’t miss Phuket Coffee Lab, set up by an expat Australian. This caffeine hub roasts beans in-house and offers barista classes for hardcore caffeine nerds.

TREAT YOURSELF Taste Royal Thai cuisine in a mansion at Blue Elephant, discover acclaimed Italian dining at Acqua or have a chic Sunday brunch at Breeze at Cape Yamu. You’ll never go hungry in Phuket.

TAKE IT HOME A Thai cooking class is a lasting souvenir for your taste buds.

There are several local cooking schools and many hotels also offer cooking classes.

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Service with a smile at The Aquila. ABOVE: Tiger Muay Thai.

Into the wild Elephant-riding has long been synonymous with a Thai holiday experience, but there are new operators who aim to educate visitors, rather than exploiting the gentle giants.

The Phuket Elephant Sanctuary is a refuge for elephants rescued from the tourist and logging industries.

It’s the first of its kind on the island and no riding is allowed.

Instead, travellers can have an ethical encounter watching the animals as they bathe, play and walk in the grounds. A-list visitors have included Coldplay, Britney Spears and Leonardo DiCaprio.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, THE AQUILA, PHUKET ELEPHANT SANCTUARY, TIGER MUAY THAI

Roll with the punches

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Promotion I DESTINATION WEDDING

Siam sunsets DESTINATION WEDDINGS have seen a surge in popularity, with more and more couples drawn by the allure of barefoot beach weddings or clifftop ceremonies in faraway locales. Along with the novelty of turning your wedding into a group holiday for your nearest and dearest, a destination wedding can deliver a Champagne wedding on a wine-cask budget.

If a destination wedding has your heart aflutter, Thailand has been firmly established as one of Asia’s leading locations for romance – having been named Travel + Leisure India and South Asia’s Best Wedding Destination for five years running.

Wedding belles When South Australian couple Renee Tylor and Rodolfo Bernardo decided to tie the knot, Thailand was their first choice. “The culture, the food, the people, the scenery and beaches – it has something for everyone,” says Renee. “People could travel on a budget if they wanted but it also offers opulent resorts and experiences for honeymooners wanting a bit extra out of the trip.”

PICTURED AND ABOVE: Renee and Rodolfo tie the knot in Thailand.

INSET: Baba Nest at Sri Panwa.

After experiencing frustrations arranging their wedding long distance, they enlisted the services of Australian-based planning service Wedding Destinations, who helped them realise their dream do at The Intercontinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort in spectaular Koh Samui. The experience surpassed even their greatest expectations.

“Until we had experienced a destination wedding we just thought it would be like any other wedding. How wrong we were!” says Renee. “The vibe of the trip was exciting, fun and relaxed; all at the same time. To spend the

days leading up to the wedding day with family and friends was priceless. We spent many happy hours by the resort pool, dined at fabulous restaurants and experienced the best of Thailand – all surrounded by loved ones. By the time the wedding day came around we were all one big tight-knit group who had bonded over a memorable holiday. Then add to that the amazing wedding at the dreamiest of locations, it is truly an experience none of us will forget.” The wedding party was so enamoured, they’re planning a five-year reunion in Koh Samui.

HEARTBREAKERS

Have your dream honeymoon at one of these dreamy Thai destinations PHUKET A string of waterfront resorts might make Phuket the hub for seaside sojourns in Thailand, but Phuket Town has much more up its sleeve, from quaint neighbourhood restaurants in the heritage Old Town, to rooftop luxury at Sri Panwa’s stunning Baba Nest.

PHANG NGA Sail into the sunset in southern Thailand’s Phang Nga Bay. Avoid the crush of group day tours to James Bond and Phi Phi Islands with a chartered yacht, and explore hidden coves and beaches between the bay’s iconic limestone islets.

HUA HIN Hua Hin kissed its existence as a sleepy fishing village goodbye when the Thai royal family started spending summers there in the ’20s. Honeymoon in any of the upscale resorts lining the promenade, with days by the pool and evenings wandering open-air night markets and feasting at beachfront seafood restaurants.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

AS ONE AUSTRALIAN COUPLE DISCOVERED DURING THEIR DREAM WEDDING, THAILAND IS MADE FOR ROMANCE

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