Jetstar July 2017 Magazine by HGM

jetstar MAGAZINE

JULY 2017

RETAIL THERAPY Our guide to the best Auckland shopping

MAGAZINE

TASSIE TALES

Warm up with a whisky on a wintry road trip

IN HOT WATER

Chill out with a hot springs holiday

ULURU I SKI JAPAN I FIJI I SCHOOL HOLIDAYS

HOLIDAYS

WHITSUNDAYS WISHLIST BE INSPIRED BY OUR GUIDE TO THIS STUNNING QUEENSLAND PARADISE

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Fo in

JustJust 6km 6km from from thethe CBD, CBD, youyou willwill find find over over 285285 specialty specialty stores stores with with everything everything from from high high endend fashion, fashion, bridal, bridal, antiques, antiques, home home accessories accessories andand cafĂŠs. cafĂŠs.

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FASHION. FOOD. HOMEWARES. BRIDAL.

thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Armadale

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@hsarmadale

www.highstreetarmadale.com.au

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july

Meet Bret Cameron

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ON THE COVER: The Whitsundaysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Whitehaven Beach PHOTOGRAPHY: Tourism and Events Queensland and Jason Hill

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contents JULY 2017

EXPERIENCE

8 I WHAT’S ON 10 I NEWS 14 I MY PLACE Bret Cameron and the Northern Rivers of NSW

17 I IMBIBE Going dry for July

18 I HOW-TO

54-68 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Welcome back to the wonderful Whitsundays

70 I RETAIL RULES Auckland’s top shops

76 I TUCKER TALES

Order coffee like an Aussie

20 I THE SHORTLIST

82 I HEAD TO HAKUBA

22 I FOOD TREND Egg-cellent foodie finds

25 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

The Japanese ski resort to head to this year

91 I WINTER WANDERS 97 I FIJI FIVE WAYS

Jakarta’s creative cool

29 I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

Relaxing hot-spring holidays

Glowing winter skin

Tasmania heats up in the cold

The many way to experience this Pacific paradise

30 I GET THE LOOK

Holiday fun

46 I PHOTO ESSAY The colourful culture of Malaysia’s Penang

Native ingredients get new life in the ancient heartland

Out-of-the-way attractions

EXPLORE

105 I DIP YOUR TOE 111 I OLD-SCHOOL FUN Classic family activities

How to hang art in the home

152 I BACKPAGE 32 I SUITS YOU

Tales from row 57

The long and short of scarves

34 I HEALTH Strap on your ice skates

37 ISPA & WELLNESS

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ESSENTIALS

Going coco-nuts in the Cook Islands

124 I Jetstar news

40 I RECIPE

130 I Where we fly

Paris in a pastry

42 I WORK AND PLAY

141 I Entertainment guide

The art of good design

14/06/2017 9:45 AM

Take off with Jetstar MasterCard and get $100 cashback*

Be rewarded when you travel and pay with a Jetstar MasterCard:

Fly interest free - pay 0% for 6 months on bookings of $300 or more1

Travel rewards2

10% off on-board food and drink purchases3

No payment fee on jetstar.com and via the Jetstar call centre4

Plus, be approved and opt-in to the Jetstar Dollars program by 31 July 2017 and you could also enjoy: • $100 cashback to your Card if you spend $2,000 on eligible purchases within 60 days* • $13 primary cardholder annual fee for the first year, then $695 • 0% p.a. on balance transfers for 14 months from card approval6

Apply at jetstar.com/mastercard

All day, every day, low fares

*Things you need to know: New applicants only who are approved for a Jetstar MasterCard between 12:01am AEST 22 May 2017 and 11.59pm AEST 31 July 2017, opt in to the Jetstar Dollars Program and spend $2,000 on eligible purchases on their card within 60 days of card approval. $100 cashback will be credited to their Jetstar MasterCard account within 10 weeks of meeting the eligibility criteria. Minimum repayments are required. Terms and conditions and exclusions apply. $100 cashback is offered by Card Services. 1. Fly interest free: After the introductory period, the standard variable interest rate for purchases applies. Purchase must include flights or hotels and be a single transaction made through jetstar.com or through the Jetstar call centre. 2. Travel rewards: Refer to jetstar.com/cards and the Jetstar MasterCard Rewards Program Terms and Conditions for more information 3. 10% off on board purchases: Offer only valid on-board flights operated by Jetstar (JQ). 4. No payment fee: This is also known as a Booking & Service Fee for bookings made with Jetstar Asia, Jetstar Japan and Jetstar Pacific flights. 5. $13 annual fee first year, $69 ongoing: A $9 annual fee applies for each additional card. 6. 0% p.a. for 14 months BT offer: After the introductory period, the standard variable interest rate for purchases applies. Minimum repayments are required. Terms and conditions apply. Card Services is a division of Macquarie Bank Limited (ABN 46 008 583 542, Australian Credit Licence 237502), which provides and administers credit and is the issuer of the Jetstar Credit Cards. Approval is subject to Card Services credit criteria and suitability assessment. Terms and conditions, fees and charges apply and are available upon request. Offer only available to Australian residents. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

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Welcome I GROUP CEO

EDITORIAL

More people travelling more often

For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com Account director Tiffany Sayers Managing editor, Jetstar Ingrid Nason Editor Justine Costigan Deputy editor Krysia Bonkowski Subeditor Leanne Tolra Art director Robert Bertagni Designer Natalie LaChina Picture editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales Director Michele Carlon +61 3 8520 6444 or email michelecarlon@hardiegrant.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels JETSTAR MAGAZINE

is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia +61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

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12:44 pm

PHOTO LAUREN BAMFORD

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015. Jetstar Magazine is printed by Offset Alpine Printing.

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This year, more than 24 million people have travelled with Jetstar for under $100

ast month I had the chance to spend time with aviation leaders from around the world, sharing our experiences on how far air travel has come and looking towards the future of the industry. Nearly four billion people will fly this year, which is more than half of the world’s population. In 2050, it’s predicted that number will triple. It’s incredible to think that not long ago each flight was a rare and remarkable event in our lives.

Back then, each journey took a lot more planning, time and money. At Jetstar we are so proud to offer millions of low fares to travellers every year, meaning more people can fly more often. This year, more than 24 million people have travelled with Jetstar for under $100. My first day at Jetstar in July five years ago was the same day that Jetstar Japan began operations. It was a relatively small team, with three aircraft flying to five cities. Since then, Jetstar Japan has carried close to 20 million passengers to 11 domestic destinations in Japan, as well as 4 international locations – recently launching flights from Tokyo to Shanghai. In the past 13 years, the same stories of growth can be seen across Jetstar Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, Japan and Vietnam, with more and more travellers exploring our extensive network of 85 destinations in 18 countries. We’re proud to play a part in making the world more accessible, and we look forward to being a part of your next adventure. I hope you enjoy your flight.

Jayne Hrdlicka Jetstar Group CEO

16/06/2017 2:15 PM

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On top of the world

The Japanese Alps are a spectacular sight year round. Make the most of the green season and enjoy the stunning hiking trails and natural hot springs of the alpine regions.

PHOTO HOSHINO RESORTS

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LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

13/06/2017 9:33 AM

Experience I WHAT’S ON

Try a winter red

July

Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Australian Surf Festival 28 July to 14 August Coffs Harbour, New South Wales

More than 500 surfers meet on the Tweed Coast to see who among them will emerge as Australia’s best on shortboard, longboard, bodyboard and oldschool ‘loggers’. australiansurffestival.com.au

Open House Melbourne 29-30 July Melbourne, Victoria Over Open House Weekend, architecture buffs find the doors of more than 200 public and private buildings around the CBD and suburbs thrown open to them for an in-depth encounter with Melbourne’s built environs. openhousemelbourne.org

Huon Valley Mid-Winter Festival 14-16 July Huon Valley, Tasmania

Russell Birdman Festival

Cabin Fever Festival

Marlborough Book Festival

Russell, in the beautiful Bay of Islands, hosts a madcap community event with musicalchair tournaments, spaghettieating contests, fancy dress parties and the crowning event, the Birdman, in which brave souls launch off the wharf into freezing water. russellbirdman.co.nz

From fondue parties to fireside degustation dinners, Cabin Fever embraces the cold weather as an excuse for indulgence. Participating restaurants, vineyards, brewers, producers and farms show off the riches of the Margaret River region. cabinfeverfest.com.au

This annual literary festival combines keen minds with beautiful scenery. Join a poetry reading in a vineyard, learn about local history on a cruise on the Queen Charlotte Sound or catch a beer geek talking their trade deep in wine country. marlboroughbookfest.co.nz

13-16 July Russell, New Zealand

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14-23 July Margaret River, Western Australia

28-30 July Marlborough, New Zealand

Serenade the apple trees at this pagan celebration in the farming community of Huon Valley. In honour of the upcoming ciderapple growing season, revellers gather around a roaring bonfire to eat, drink and be merry. huonvalleymidwinterfest. com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW RANKIN, OPEN HOUSE MELBOURNE, TOURISM TASMANIA

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

It’s a great month to…

Darwin Lions Beer Can Regatta 9 July Darwin, Northern Territory

This idiosyncratic event, where teams of four exercise creative recycling to make elaborate rafts for a race at Mindil Beach, has been a fun fixture on the Territory’s calendar since 1974. beercanregatta.org.au

CELEBRATE the achievements of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people during NAIDOC Week, from 2 to 9 July.

Cairns Indigenous Art Fair

SPOIL yourself with foodie events and experiences as part of Brisbane’s Good Food Month, from 1 to 31 July.

14-16 July Cairns, Queensland

Show your support for Queensland’s Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander arts communities and catch a cultural inundation of music, dance, fashion and theatre. ciaf.com.au

Winter Reds Cellar Door Weekend 28-30 July Adelaide Hills, South Australia

More than 30 boutique vineyards around the Adelaide Hills will help stave off the winter chill with cosy cellar door sessions, new-release wines and decadent, slow-cooked food. winterreds.com.au

SCALE

JAPAN

Gion Matsuri 1-31 July Kyoto, Japan

the Sydney Harbour Bridge for Bridge Climb’s Sunset Sessions, with musicians serenading Twilight Climbers throughout July and August.

The origins of this month-long festival can be traced back a thousand years. On summer evenings, locals in cotton yukata gowns fill the streets of Kyoto, with celebrations reaching a peak in the nights before the Yamaboko Junkō parades on 17 and 24 July.

Australian Festival of Chamber Music 28 July to 5 August Townsville, Queensland

Beach and Bach might seem like odd bedfellows, but this annual festival in Tropical North Queensland proves otherwise. More than 30 professional musicians from around the world will treat visitors to candle-lit concerts, garden recitals and intimate performances around Townsville. afcm.com.au

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13/06/2017 9:35 AM

Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

Q&A with Abdul Abdullah INTERVIEW JUSTINE COSTIGAN

Thanks for choosing to fly with us today – it’s great to have you on board. In Australia and New Zealand, we’re excited to announce our revamped Club Jetstar, which gives members a range of amazing offers. Read all about the great benefits on page 124. And it’s come at a great time of year to travel. Whether you’re taking a short weekend trip away or a longer break over the school holidays, winter is the perfect time to plan a break. As the cold kicks in across many parts of our network, a snow holiday becomes more and more appealing for many Australians. To find out about some famous ski fields and resorts, check out page 82 and read about Hakuba, Japan. This world-class snow destination just a couple of hours from Narita International Airport, where we offer up to seven daily flights from both Cairns and the Gold Coast. And for those of you chasing the sun and looking for a tropical getaway, Fiji is an amazing option – flick to page 97 for tips on five ways to experience the country. And what better way to ‘defrost’ than a trip to the Whitsunday Islands in Queensland, which we are celebrating this issue. It is amazing to think that since 2004, we’ve gone on to carry more than 4 million people to the Whitsundays, which sits on the doorstep of the Great Barrier Reef and offers hiking trails and beautiful beaches. We serve up to 17 flights to the Whitsunday Islands from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. As always, have a safe and happy trip. Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

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What are you looking forward to most about Sydney-based Australian being a judge?

artist Abdul Abdullah is thrilled to be this year’s guest judge for the Art Gallery of New South Wales’ Young Archie competition (part of the family program for the Archibald, Wynne and Sulman Prizes exhibition), which celebrates the talent of young Australian artists aged five to 18. We spoke to Abdul ahead of the judging.

I put a lot of my faith in the next generation and there’s nothing that gives me more joy than seeing that light bulb moment in a kid when they realise that art gives them access to a particular type of agency they may not have in other parts of their lives. Seeing these kids put in this much effort and really step out of their comfort zone and enter something like the Young Archies – I’m really looking forward to seeing those results.

What will you be looking for among the Young Archie entrants?

Practise, practise, practise. And hustle beats talent when talent doesn’t hustle. See the 2017 Young Archie finalists at the Art Gallery of New South Wales from 29 July until 22 October. artgallery.nsw.gov.au

I’m going to look for creativity and character in the work. And most of all originality. Which work expresses what the artist is trying to say the best?

Any tips for young artists?

What is the best way to nurture creativity in a child? I had pretty conservative parents but they always supported my creativity by allowing me to draw and colour things in. That was never stifled or suppressed and I think that’s the number one thing – allow them to be creative if they feel that way inclined.

What are the benefits to living a creative life? I went to a selective school in Western Australia that specialised in art and in my year there were 30 students.

Painting by 2016 Young Archie (5-8 years category) winner Alexander Bennett.

PHOTO DEAN GOLJA

Welcome

I’m the only one that has gone on to become an artist but everyone else has used that creativity and out-of-the-box thinking to help them in their careers – it has really set them apart. Studying art helps everything else. Your visual literacy – being able to read an image in more than just a superficial way – helps with critical thinking.

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Experience I NEWS

FOODIE FINDS

JUST OPENED A vegan breakfast bowl from George On Collins. INSET: Head chef Tom Brockbank.

Grounds of the city

After much anticipation, the team behind popular Sydney café Grounds of Alexandria has opened a CBD branch, Grounds of the City. The 300-square metre space at The Galeries is inspired by 1920s coffeehouses, with a shoeshine stand, roaming cake trolley and specialist barista bar for espresso aficionados. thegrounds.com.au

GEORGE ON COLLINS The former Georges Department Store has kept watch over the ‘Paris’ end of Melbourne’s Collins Street since the 1880s. Inhabiting the cavernous basement, George on Collins promises to look after you from morning coffee to late-night cocktails. With a $4 million facelift by Hecker and Guthrie, a menu from Tom Brockbank of Estelle Bistro and a wine list by respected sommelier Ainslie Lubbock, George on Collins is sure to do this architectural grand old dame proud.

thegeorgeoncollins.com.au

WE’RE LOVING

Fur-baby beds

Melbourne designer Georgia Havekotte combined her love of textiles and pups to dream up Nice Digs. The range of homewares and accessories includes dog beds and throws featuring Georgia’s exclusive prints, and printed leather collars and velvet leashes that will make your four-legged friend the best-dressed hound in town.

Woof!

nicedigs.com.au

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Experience I NEWS

THREE OF A KIND

Gallic inspiration Bastille Festival

Maison Vauron

The Noosa Hot Bread Shop

Downtown Noosa is the place to find superb French cuisine on the Sunshine Coast. Craig McCabe and wife Maeva’s popular boulangerie becomes a cosy bistro serving classic dishes such as bouillabaisse and escargot three nights a week. Close your eyes and you could imagine yourself in Lyon or Marseille. noosahotbreadshop.com

The great grandson of a French wine merchant, Jean-Christophe Poizat was born with wine in the blood. The co-founder of this Auckland wine store sources fine drops direct from France, and in-house deli L’Atelier du Fromage stocks New Zealand’s most extensive range of French cheese. Brush up on French viticulture at one of their popular tasting events. mvauron.co.nz

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Everything in its place During the opening weekend of Dark Mofo in Hobart last month, roving exhibition Museum of Everything arrived at the irreverent Museum of Old and New Art – a perfect location for the left-of-field exhibit, which brings to light the works of untrained, unrecognised and unclassifiable artists from the 19th to 21st centuries. On now until April next year. mona.net.au VINO

On its way to you

DRINKS TO YOUR DOOR Are you in a wine rut? Would you like to discover new varietals, regions or makers, but don’t know where to start? New online wine store Magnum + Queens can act as your personal sommelier, for individual buys or packs of three, six and 12 boutique wines, delivered monthly. Each wine is accompanied by tasting notes, food pairings and a suggested recipe – think baked scallops for a Heathcote rosé, or Chinese-style roast duck fried rice with a Tasmanian pinot noir. magnumandqueenswine.com

PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM OF EVERYTHING, KIRSTEN DICKIE

In honour of Bastille Day on 14 July, this free street festival promises to bring a food, wine and art revolution to Sydney’s Circular Quay from 13 to 16 July. Soak up French culture with roving performers, food villages, wine bars, film screenings and live concerts, all against the distinctly Australian backdrop of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House. bastillefestival.com.au

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Jetstar

Best Hotel Design 2016

Society of British and International Design

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Experience I MY PLACE

FROM COAST TO TABLE Chef Bret Cameron finds inspiration and great produce at his fingertips in New South Wales’ Northern Rivers region WORDS LACHEAN HUMPHREYS

E 14

xecutive chef Bret Cameron was born and raised in Dunedin in New Zealand’s chilly south, but now calls the sunny far-north coast of New South Wales home. Bret’s local and organic food philosophy led him to the tiny town of Newrybar in the Northern Rivers region, via stints at acclaimed restaurants in London, Byron Bay and Sydney’s Bronte. At the award-winning Harvest restaurant, Bret works with forager and wild food researcher, Peter Hardwick, to focus on seasonality and native flavours. Every Wednesday, Bret plates up an experimental Wild Harvest dinner menu with Peter’s freshly foraged fare. From peppermint-gum damper to Balmain bug with charred kelp, pandanus, succulents and native passionfruit, diners experience ingredients straight from sand dunes and riversides. Bret is passionate about a community approach to food and supporting local farmers, and says there is fruit, vegetables, macadamia nuts and coffee beans aplenty in the area. When he’s not cooking, Bret heads to his favourite surf spots, or scours local farmers’ markets and the region’s famous roadside stalls for the freshest produce. “Byron’s really famous for the beaches, but I think the hinterland is just as good – if not better,” he says. “My suggestion to people is to go exploring; get lost.” Harvest Newrybar, 18-22 Old Pacific Highway, Newrybar, NSW. harvestnewrybar.com.au

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15/06/2017 11:44 AM

Experience I MY PLACE Fleet restaurant. RIGHT: Produce from Mullumbimby Farmers’ Market. BELOW: Protesters Falls.

The food is amazing and super local, which is what I’m all about FLEET

MILK AND HONEY

2/16 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads fleet-restaurant.com.au This tiny, unsuspecting restaurant over-delivers every time. The food is amazing and super local, which is what I’m all about. Josh (Lewis), the one-man band in the kitchen, is a magician. And the staff knows where everything comes from and the story of the people who brought it to your glass or plate.

5/59a Station Street, Mullumbimby milkandhoneymullumbimby. com.au If you like a casual beer and pizza, which I do, this is your spot. It’s legit when it comes to wood-fired pizza and offers everything from a simple margherita to lamb’s tongue (my favourite) for the more adventurous.

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, HARVEST RESTAURANT, LAUREN AVALON

PAPER DAISY 21 Cypress Crescent, Cabarita Beach halcyonhouse.com.au/ restaurant This restaurant is tied first with Fleet. I like Ben’s (chef Ben Devlin) approach to cooking and the way he embraces everything local and native. It’s similar, but different, to what we’re doing at Harvest. He has an amazing wood-fire grill in there that I’d love to steal.

FEDERAL DOMA CAFE 3-6 Albert Street, Federal Find them on Facebook It’s so unexpected – a 40-minute drive into the hinterland and on the way to Minyon Falls. They do awesome, simple Japanese food in a small, garden setting.

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BYRON BAY AND MULLUMBIMBY FARMERS’ MARKETS 51 Main Arm Road, Mullumbimby mullumfarmersmarket.org.au I am religiously at the markets every Thursday morning. I’ll be up at 6am to do my shopping for home and the restaurant. It’s great to meet the farmers and see that they have the same passion for what they’re growing, as I do for what I cook.

THE RAILS 86 Jonson Street, Byron Bay therailsbyronbay.com My favourite pub. It has good cold beer, great pub food and live music every night. I’m a sucker for a steak. I pretty much have it every time I go there, and they get it right every time.

ROADSIDE STALLS

FOLLOW: @ha

rvestnewryba

Keep up to date with Bret on Instagram WATERFALLS We are blessed with plenty of waterfalls here – you’ve just got to get out there and find them for yourself. Killen Falls is easy to check out morning or afternoon, and is a five-minute drive from Harvest. Protesters Falls is a bit further away, but the reward is worth it. It’s so beautiful. Minyon is a popular one, with breathtaking views you can check out from either the top lookout or while trekking three hours to the bottom.

Near where I live in Newrybar, there are several stalls along Broken Head Road selling things like citrus, bananas, tomatoes, potatoes and corn. Another favourite spot, just around the corner on Coopers Shoot Road, is Ocean Cottage, selling whatever they have growing in their garden at the time.

BROKEN HEAD BEACH This is my favourite beach for surfing and sunbaking. It’s a long beach so it spreads the crowd out for surfing – if you’re lucky enough you may get a peak to yourself. I have another favourite beach in the area but it’s going to remain a secret. If I tell you I’ll probably get run out of town.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Ballina Byron Bay from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

14/06/2017 4:11 PM

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13/06/2017 9:41 AM

Experience I IMBIBE

Abstain without pain ENJOY FOOD AND WINE MATCHING, BUT NEED TO CUT BACK YOUR ALCOHOL? DON’T WORRY, YOU CAN STILL MATCH DINNER AND DRINKS IN DRY JULY WORDS SOFIA LEVIN

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAN RICHARDSON

hether pregnant, under age, or abstaining, opting for non-alcoholic drinks at some of Australia’s best restaurants doesn’t mean missing out – it means sipping something considered, seasonal and unique. We’ve come a long way from lemon, lime and bitters, and there’s no better month to give it a whirl than Dry July – the cancer-fundraising initiative that asks people to give up alcohol for the month. Sydney’s Momofuku Seiobo led the charge when former head chef Ben Greeno started serving nonalcoholic matches in 2012. He’d done the same, to some acclaim, at Noma. Sommelier Ambrose Chiang says the Japanese-themed restaurant’s health-conscious customers tend to opt for a non-alcoholic match during the week. Using techniques inspired by winemaking in northern Italy, Ambrose macerates Granny Smith and Pink Lady apples with their skins, then freezes a reduction of charred onions before dripping and pressing the liquid (like a sweet German riesling). But non-alcoholic drinks can take weeks to create and produce consistently; the apple juice alone

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It’s no sacrifice 17 Alcohol-free tipple at Momofuku. INSET: Momofuku’s Ambrose Chiang.

non-alcoholic drinks can take weeks to create and produce consistently takes a week and a half, with at least four hours of work in the kitchen, Ambrose says. The key to a successful teetotaller match, says Brett Mayeux of Orana Restaurant in Adelaide, is teamwork. Brett asks the kitchen team to keep him in mind if there’s something they recieve in a produce delivery that could work in a drink. “Being a sommelier doesn’t make me gifted at coming up with a quota of beverages and pairing them,” he says, “Every once in a while, we’ll

sit down and look at where the juices and non-alcoholic beverages are, make little adjustments, or come up with entirely new offerings,” he says. Orlando Marzo from Lume in Melbourne says that dining with non-alcoholic drinks is a completely different experience to matching food with wine. “At Lume, some drinks match the course, some add another element and some follow the tradition of the dish; for example a non-alcoholic sake with an abalone in a traditional style Japanese broth,” he says. But as with everything at a restaurant, customer feedback is paramount. Orlando looks at the faces of diners when they take their first sip. “Often the people with the alcohol are jealous of the nonalcoholic match,” he says.

14/06/2017 4:26 PM

Experience I HOW TO

Know your

ESPRESSO From a weak, skinny, soy, decaf latte to an almond milk macchiato, ordering coffee Down Under is an art form WORDS MATT HOLDEN

ustralians (and their cousins in New Zealand) take coffee seriously, which means that ordering coffee might not be as straightforward as you think. While a request for “un caffe” in Italy will get you a demitasse of black espresso, and a simple “cawfee, please” in North America might produce a mug of something that has been sitting on a hotplate too long, you’ll need to be a bit more specific in an Australian café. If you ask for coffee, you might be met with a blank stare while the waitperson waits for you to tell them what you actually want.

It’s an art form

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Italian-style espresso coffee is the bedrock of coffee culture in Australia, brought here by Mediterranean migrants after World War II. Asking for an espresso or a short black will get you a demitasse of syrupy black coffee. The beans will be either a blend of different arabica varieties (unlike espresso in Italy, which is often a blend of arabica and robusta), or there might be several choices of single-origin (one country or region) or single-

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

Espresso culture

13/06/2017 9:46 AM

Experience I HOW TO

estate (a particular farm, or even a specific shady bit of hillside on a specific farm). If you want more than a couple of quick sips, ask for a long black – an espresso shot poured into about half a cup of hot water.

Cream with that? Australians and New Zealanders prefer coffee with milk, and they will drink it morning, afternoon or evening. When Italians brought espresso to Australia, they also brought cappuccino – a shot of espresso in a cup of steamed milk, topped with milk foam and, to be truly Aussie, a dusting of powdered chocolate. But Australians have really adopted the Italian homestyle breakfast drink – caffe latte – as their go-to in cafés. It’s served in a glass, not a cup, has less foam than a cappuccino, and definitely no chocolate. Tip: just ask for a “latte”. Milk variations include the piccolo (a shot of espresso topped up with steamed milk in a demitasse-sized glass) and the macchiato, a shot of espresso with a splash of milk foam. Then there’s the famous flat white: some say this blend of espresso and steamed milk sans froth, foam or chocolate was invented in Sydney, others say New Zealand. Whatever the case, the Kiwi version is superior: a double shot of espresso topped up with steamed milk in a smaller cappuccino-style cup called a tulip. It’s absolutely delicious. New Zealanders are so serious about their flat whites (often called a “magic”, especially in Melbourne), they even have special small take-away cups for them.

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We used to like our milk coffee pretty hot, but tastes have changed: you won’t find milk heated past 55 or 60 degrees in a good café these days – just hot enough. If you ask for an extra-hot latte, you’ll get it, but it might also earn you a scowl from the barista. The handbook for non-dairy milk alternatives includes soy milk, almond milk, coconut milk and rice milk, but it’s still being written as fads come and go. If you don’t want black coffee and you don’t want dairy in your brew, ask your friendly barista – a highly regarded professional who takes his or her job rather seriously – for a list of alternatives.

Filter coffee With the boom in third-wave or specialty coffee, filter brews have become widely available, but they are nothing like the version in that North American diner. A filter coffee could be made by the pour-over method (hot water poured through ground coffee in a paper filter held in a Japanesestyle funnel), an Aeropress (an American plunger-type contraption), a French press (the traditional plunger) or it might be in the form of a “batch brew” made on a high-end automatic brewer. Expect lighter roasts, brighter (more acidic) flavours and singleestate beans from small, specially selected farms. Filter coffee might be served in a mug, a cup, a glass beaker or even a wine glass for maximum swirling. A few cafés will top you up, but mostly you pay by the cup. And unless you want to look like a complete coffee newbie, don’t add milk or sugar to a filter brew – that just ain’t done Down Under.

13/06/2017 9:46 AM

Experience I THE SHORTLIST

Have a beer with Duncan

2 OF THE BEST

Delightful detours These out-of-the-way attractions are worth the journey

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

1. WILLIAM CREEK HOTEL

williamcreekhotel.com With less than 10 permanent residents, tiny William Creek might not have much by way of amenities, but it does have a pub. One of the most remote pubs in the world, in fact. Welcoming travellers deep in the South Australian outback since 1887, William Creek Hotel sits on the famous Oodnadatta Track next to The Ghan Railway, with a front bar decorated with paraphernalia from all over the world.

2. PARONELLA PARK

paronellapark.com.au A Spanish castle nestled deep in dense Australian rainforest, Paronella Park could have been plucked straight out of a fairytale. Built by José Paronella in the 1930s on five hectares of land beside Mena Creek Falls, this whimsical palace and its lush leisure gardens are 90 minutes' drive south of Cairns.

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3. MINE BAY MA¯ORI ROCK CARVINGS greatlaketaupo.com Out of the still waters of Lake Taupo on New Zealand’s North Island rises an imposing 14-metre high face. Carved out of the rockface by master carver Matahi WhakatakaBrightwell in the late ’70s, the Mine Bay carving depicts the the whorled face of Ma-ori ancestor Nga-toroirangi. Set out on a kayak or yacht from the pretty town of Taupo to get close to the towering visage, flanked by the likeness of a mermaid and the south wind.

4. THE CAT ISLANDS OF JAPAN Japan – land of cat cafés, cat theme parks and, of course, Hello Kitty– has not one, but 11 cat islands. Known as nekojima, the human population of these islands is far outstripped by feline residents. The most famous of these islands, Tashirojima

in Miyagi Prefecture, is best reached by bullet train from Tokyo to nearby Sendai, then by ferry from coastal village Ishinomaki. Instafamous Aoshima Island (with only 15 permanent human residents and no restaurants or hotels) in the Ehime Prefecture is reached from a ferry at Nagahama Port, on the Yosan train line from Osaka.

5. HORIZONTAL FALLS Created by powerful tides rushing through narrow channels in the ancient McLarty Range, this surreal natural phenomenon is a highlight of the staggering Kimberley Ranges. Sir David Attenborough is reputed to have called the twin falls of turquoise water "one of the greatest wonders of the natural world". Located in far north-west Western Australia, the falls are only accessible by ship and seaplane.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES, SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION, ADAM BRYCE, PARONELLA PARK

15/06/2017 11:45 AM

Shrug off your jacket. Shake your scarf free. Close the door against the icy wind. There â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s a log fire crackling and your face starts glowing. You pour a warming glass of red and take in the alluring aroma of a slowly cooked braise. Settle into a cosy leather chair with a dog curled up at your feet . . .perfection! Fire up your winter soul in the Adelaide Hills.

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13/06/2017 9:48 AM

Experience I FOOD TREND

That's a Good Egg

Egg-cellent eats

#YOLKPORN: FROM PERFECT POACHIES TO CRISP-BOTTOMED BREAKFAST ENHANCERS, THE WORLD’S FAVOURITE POCKET-SIZED PROTEIN BOMB IS GAINING CULT STATUS WORDS NOLA JAMES

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eggs star in every dish, but the BEC (bacon, egg and cheese) – a soft roll filled with a sunny-side up egg, Vermont white cheddar, Black Forest bacon, pickled jalapeno and tomato jam – reigns supreme. It’s not just an American thing – eggs are a timeless multicultural food. In the Middle East it’s all about shakshuka, eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce, while Indians like to curry theirs whole in fragrant

Mexicans eat the most eggs per capita; 335 per person per year. gravy. Mexicans eat the most eggs per capita; 335 per person per year. Perhaps that’s because their iconic breakfast dish huevos rancheros – fried eggs and salsa on warm tortillas – is egg-squisite.

Beyond breakfast Japanese egg-sperts are forever perfecting the onsen egg: fondantcentred, soft-boiled wonders atop steaming bowls of ramen. The Four Seasons Hotel in Kyoto serves a truffled version with creamed spinach and chicken jus, while Tokyo’s Rokurinsha Ramen offers trademark soy-sauce-steeped softyolk eggs that attract lines of up to 300 hungry humans. The enduring popularity of the Scotch

PHOTOGRAPHY UBER EATS, CITY FOODSTERS ON CREATIVE COMMONS

n Los Angeles, queues for a brioche bun stuffed with smoked bacon, an over-medium fried egg, cheddar cheese and chipotle ketchup can stretch for a city block from the door of the cheekily named Eggslut: Grand Central Market’s cult egg sandwich stall. Cross the continent to New York and the wait can top two hours for a seat at Egg Shop: a day-to-night eatery on the Lower East Side. Here

13/06/2017 9:49 AM

Experience I FOOD TREND

Tokyo's Rokurinsha Ramen. LEFT: Good Egg's pork and fennel Scotch egg. INSET: A Good Egg bun.

Try it here

Hot stuff

egg, a reinvention of the travel-friendly mince meat and breadcrumbcoated hard-boiled eggs of 1700s London, proves egg fascination isn’t just a flash in the pan. Hong Kong’s contemporaryAmerican-style bistro DUB, with Kiwi-chef Kaleb Davies at the helm, serves a killer deep-fried pork-cheekwrapped, quail-egg version. It’s best eaten after dark with a martini in hand.

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It’s good to remember that eggs are no longer considered as bad for us as they were back in the ’80s. The CSIRO recommends we eat them daily, for their high-protein, low-fat, high-nutritional content. Eggs contain essential amino acids and vitamins and come in convenient, biodegradable singleserve packaging. What’s not to love?

Cracking ideas In Melbourne, two new inner-city venues have poached inspiration from America’s egg-centric Eggslut/Egg Shop model. Nick Devereux and Greg Bremner, of café Wall Two 80 in innerurban Balaclava, opened Good Egg in nearby South Melbourne earlier this year. The café pays homage to the humble bacon-and-egg sarnie, with scoffable egg-filled

It’s not just an American thing – eggs are a timeless multicultural food challah buns and falafelcoated Scotch eggs. Eggshack, a $2 million redevelopment in Melbourne’s Flinders Street Station, will be simmering away in the ageing Clocks restaurant until its expected September opening. The egg-centric menu will offer egg sandwiches, egg tarts, steak and eggs and schnitzel a la Holstein (breaded veal cutlet topped with fried egg, anchovies and caper sauce) from 7am to 3am daily. Eggshack co-owner Darran Smith is on an egg-connaissance mission in the US and planning

GOOD EGG 303 Coventry Street, South Melbourne, VIC goodeggmelbourne. com.au ROKURINSHA RAMEN Tokyo Station, 1 Chome-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda, Tokyo rokurinsha.com

DUB HONG KONG 51D Graham Street, Central, Hong Kong dubhongkong.com

Try it at home ALL ABOUT EGGS Rachel Khong and the editors of Lucky Peach RRP $39.99 penguinrandomhouse. com.au EGG SHOP: THE COOKBOOK Nick Korbee RRP $49 harpercollins.com

to bring back US chef Rachel Khong (co-author of the recently released Lucky Peach cookbook All About Eggs) for a series of “egg-ustation” dinners in Melbourne and Sydney late next month.

13/06/2017 9:49 AM

On this stunning stretch of white sandy beach on the Bukit Peninsulaâ&#x20AC;Ś

every day is Sunday Relax and enjoy friendly Balinese service, take out a kayak or stand-up paddle board, or swim and snorkel in the crystal clear lagoon. Start early with a refreshing beach breakfast from our brand new menu by Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s award-winning James Viles, featuring kick start breaky bowls and breakfast pizzas. Throughout the day enjoy light snacks, salads, gourmet burgers, delicious wood fired pizzas or something from our charcoal grill. Enjoy a fresh juice or one of our signature cocktails, and end the day beside our sunset beach bonfires. Jalan Pantai Selatan Gau, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan 80362 Bali, Indonesia sundaysbeachclub.com |

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sundaysbeachclub

7/06/2017 1:01 pm 13/06/2017 9:51 AM

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

24 JAKARTA HOURS IN

INDONESIA

Jakarta’s growing creative scene, love of coffee and design-driven restaurants offer reasons to linger

Jakarta

WORDS NATASHA DRAGUN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Skye Bar and Restaurant, visit Anomali Coffee on the J-Town coffee tour, the street scene outside St Ali, breakfast at St Ali.

BREAKFAST

COFFEE FIX

Like its Melbourne sisters, St Ali’s Jakarta outpost is a tasty tribute to coffee and seasonal produce. The all-day breakfast menu includes signature dishes such as Mexican Cousin, pairing corn fritters with grilled haloumi, poached eggs and kasundi (a spicy tomato salsa). Talented baristas prepare espresso, filter and cold-drip coffee using the house’s Orthodox blend of beans, with notes of caramel, chocolate and dried fruits. stali.com.au

Continue the coffee theme with the Walk Indies J-Town Coffee Tour (9am-1.30pm), which sees you ferried around the city in a private car. Indonesia is one of the world’s largest coffee producers, so it’s no surprise the beverage is worshipped in cafés and street-side stalls everywhere. This tour offers an insightful glimpse into the industry, taking you to establishments showcasing traditional ways of processing, roasting and brewing beans. walkindies.co

PHOTOGRAPHY ANOMALI COFFEE, ST ALI, SKYE BAR AND RESTAURANT

LUNCH

1:01 pm

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Recently transformed from a sleepy space for tacky souvenirs into one of Jakarta’s hippest hangouts, Pasar Santa market is now home to more than 350 bijou stores. There are vintage record boutiques, classic barber shops, jamu (herbal elixir) stalls, galleries – there’s even a coffee school, ABCD, where you pay baristasin-training whatever you feel their beverage is worth. There are plenty of places for lunch too, from a Mexican cantina to a laksa shop and a vegan sandwich deli. Our pick? DOG sells gourmet hotdogs on black-sesame buns with homemade cheese sauce.

14/06/2017 4:29 PM

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

Great local design

SHOP If the sun is shining, the streets of Kemang in South Jakarta are a bright showcase for independent local design. Here you’ll find newcomer ARA, which stocks fashion, fragrances and jewellery from some of Indonesia’s top designers. Stroll to nearby Biasa, popular for its resortwear in earthy shades and flowy fabrics (perfect if your next stop is Bali), and Bika, a six-storey lifestyle boutique that carries an impressive range of high-quality homewares, gifts and furniture. arajakarta.com biasagroup.com groupbika.com/en

DRINKS WITH A VIEW

DINNER

STAY

Built in 1914 for the Fine Arts Circle of the Dutch East Indies, the beautiful building that now houses Tugu Kunstkring Paleis has been remodelled into a series of restaurants, bars and cafés, each with a distinctive identity and style. Begin with a creative cocktail in Suzie Wong, with its oversized film posters, before heading to the restaurant for the rijsttafel betawi, an elaborate set menu that originated as a method for the Dutch to sample various components of a traditional Indonesian meal. tuguhotels.com

Eight Indonesian artists were called upon to decorate ArtOtel Thamrin Jakarta, including Darbotz who crafted a striking graffiti mural, Monster Goes out at Night, over the hotel’s exterior. Inside, each of the six floors features a different artist: Zaky Arifin’s chalk murals fill one, while conceptual artist Wisnu Auri’s drawings adorn another. There’s also restaurant ROCA, with whimsical paintings by Eddie Hara, and rooftop bar BART, overlooking the leafy residential district of Menteng. artotelindonesia.com

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the eyrie steals the show with its infinity pool Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Singapore with connections to Jakarta. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Shopping at Biasa, ARA boutique, inside ArtOtel, a dish from Skye Bar and Restaurant, Tugu Kunstkring Paleis.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ARA, BIASA, ARTOTEL, SKYE BAR AND RESTAURANT, TUGU KUNSTKRING PALEIS

Escape Jakarta’s maddening traffic and enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the city from Skye Bar & Restaurant, perched 227 metres atop the Menara BCA building. The brainchild of the Ismaya Group, also behind Dragonfly, Blowfish and Social House, the eyrie steals the show with its infinity pool and sunken sun lounges, not to mention tasty East-meets-West fare. ismaya.com

13/06/2017 9:51 AM

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13/06/2017 9:51 AM

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13/06/2017 9:52 AM

Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

Radiant all winter

In the salon HAVE AN OXYGEN HIT Societe Oxygenation Peel, $120, theclinic.net.au

WHETHER AT THE SPA OR IN YOUR OWN BATHROOM, WINTER IS THE BEST TIME TO RESTORE YOUR SKIN’S GLOW WORDS SHONAGH WALKER

Uses pure oxygen to heal troubled skin and deliver antibacterial benefits. It aids in cell turnover and leaves skin clarified and radiant.

BERRY GOOD SKIN Cosmedix blueberry antioxidant peel, $150 theclinic.net.au Combines blueberries, vitamin A and lactic acid to deliver luminous skin without discomfort or the need to hide while redness subsides.

A berry good scrub

AT HOME

1. EMINENCE Organic Blueberry Soy Sugar Scrub, $75, eminenceorganics.com.au 2. GLO THERAPEUTICS Pumpkin enzyme scrub, $51, dermience.com.au 3.DECLEOR Shine Control Oxygenating Fluid, $55, spauniverse.com.au 4. L’UNICO Laboratory Fruit AHA Micro Peel, $90, lunicolaboratory.com 5. SUKIN Super greens detoxifying facial masque, $15.95, sukinorganics.com

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PUMPKIN PURITY The pumpkin peel, $99 dermaquest.com.au Employs pumpkin enzymes to boost cell turnover, stimulate collagen and elastin, and calm inflammation, leaving skin brighter and clearer.

HYDRABRASION TREATMENT The Hydrabrasion Treatment, $125, hydrobrasion.com.au Fine diamond dust is passed over the skin using a handheld device to gently ‘sandpaper’ away dead cells and debris. At the same time, aloe-infused water is administered, which soothes and hydrates, leaving skin glowing, hydrated and younger looking.

CITRUS BURST The Cosmedix Benefit brightening peel, $150 theclinic.net.au Brimming with antioxidants, vitamin A and C as well as salicylic acid, this treatment will exfoliate, hydrate and protect your skin throughout winter and beyond. *All salon prices are approximate

14/06/2017 9:49 AM

Experience I GET THE LOOK

Get arty at home Create an in-house gallery by grouping together a few of your favourite artworks

Insider style

2. 1.

EUGENIA WILSON, LUMAS GALLERY “Gallery walls are one of my favourite ways to display art,” says Eugenia, LUMAS Australia Director. “It allows you to showcase your favourite art in an interesting way and really make a statement.” The LUMAS team suggests a range of groupings for displaying art, such as: Salon style Art hung salon-style along perpendicular guidelines

It allows you to showcase your favourite art Eugenia Wilson

3. Aligned edges Art aligned along the top or bottom edge

The checkerboard Art hung in a grid

5. 1. LUMAS GALLERY Mini artworks hung salon style, au.lumas.com 2. RENÉ TWIGGE Bloom v7.1, from $1,499, au.lumas.com 3. STEPHANIE KLOSS Frank Sinatra residence (E. Stewart Williams), from $629, au.lumas.com 4.KATE JARMAN Cactus Sky plywood print, $185, greenhouseinteriors.com.au 5. KIMMY HOGAN Sweet Pea I, $250, kimmyhogan.com.au

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PHOTOGRAPHY AU.LUMAS.COM, KIMMY HOGAN, STEPHANIE KLOSS

Leaning art Leaning and overlapping frames along a shelf

13/06/2017 9:54 AM

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Experience I SUITS YOU

How to wear a scarf Wear it long and loopy, or short and formal, but always with a touch of swagger WORDS PETER BARRETT

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Do it your way

Three top scarf buys in half, loop it around your neck and pull the ends through. But avoid this style if you have a stocky build – the v-shape it creates suits taller guys. Stocky guys should avoid chunky, heavy knits, too, says Sally. “You want to go for something a bit more refined – you don’t want the scarf to wear you.”

Finally, scarves are a great way to accessorise. Consider wearing your scarf under the collar of a winter jacket with the ends dangling straight down and choose a matching colour. “That tone-on-tone look is very stylish but it’s also understated,” Sally says. I think I’ll stick with my imaginary pastelrainbow football team.

1. Waffle Merino wool scarf, Country Road, $79.95. In elegant navy blue, this extra-fine merino wool scarf has a soft waffle texture. 2. Trawler charcoal Merino wool scarf, MJ Bale, $99.95. Classic, larger-knit merino wool scarf that will complement your grey winter jacket. 3. Jasper Check viscose scarf, SABA, $79. This burgundy check scarf will add a dash of colour to your winter wardrobe without going overboard.

ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

I LOVE SCARVES. It probably stems from too much time watching Doctor Who as a kid, but I’ve always been a fan of long ones, looped several times around the neck, with ends dangling low and crazy. My wife knitted me two great, sensiblelength footy scarves (her delicate aesthetic couldn’t cope with my team’s officially endorsed colours) both of which, sadly, I’ve since lost. Today I’m wearing another of her creations: a long, loopy pastel pink, black, pale blue, grey and yellow number. Now that’s a team worth seeing run out onto the MCG one day. Sporting allegiances aside, we’re in the heart of scarf season so it’s time to check in with an expert. Melbourne’s Sally Mackinnon, stylist for men, says my “long and loopy” look is fine as long as it doesn’t come across as contrived. “It’s a modern, contemporary way to wear a scarf, it’s effortless and (says) ‘I’ve literally just thrown it on as I’ve walked out the door’.” For a neater, more corporate look, Sally is a fan of “the European”, where you fold the scarf

13/06/2017 9:56 AM

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Experience I HEALTH

Ice, ice baby It may take a while to get the hang of it, but as Larissa Dubecki discovers, ice-skating is a fun workout

34-35_EXPERIENCE_HEALTH.indd 34

Just chilling

Try it here I’m thrilled to complete a whole lap without going near the barrier steadying the other hand on the ice). Gosh it’s slippery. The ice is hard, the blades are thin, and it seems almost counter-intuitive to expect to reach any kind of momentum, but it’s not too long before I start getting the hang of things. The lower you sink on your legs the more force you can generate, explains Tommy; if the wobbles attack, slightly bending the legs can also make you feel more stable. It’s cold – but not

too cold, and one of the remarkable things about it is the cavernous 16-degree room quickly feels like it’s suffering the effects of global warming. Sure I’m not exactly reaching record landspeeds but the quad muscles are certainly heating up, and going by the girl zooming nimbly around in a T-shirt, ice skating can certainly qualify as an excellent workout. My goals are more modest: eventually I’m thrilled to complete a

MELBOURNE O’Brien Group Arena, 105 Pearl River Road, Docklands obriengrouparena.com. au SYDNEY Ice Zoo Ice Rink, 689 Gardeners Road, Alexandria icezoo.com AUCKLAND Paradice Ice Skating, 150 Lansford Crescent, Avondale paradice.co.nz

whole lap without going near the barrier. Sure, I’m not exactly Will Ferrell in Blades of Glory, but even his character Chazz Michael Michaels had to start somewhere. I’ll be back – less for glory, more for fun.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

WHEN IT COMES to ice skating, it’s good to get the falling-over business out of the way at the start. That’s the firm belief of champion ice hockey player Tommy Powell, and as a complete novice I am in no position to disagree as he takes me on my first tentative whirl around O’Brien Arena in Melbourne’s Docklands. “I tell all my school groups, just fall over. See what it’s like, get used to it and it won’t be such a mental barrier anymore,” says Tommy, the veteran player from Melbourne Ice. It turns out I don’t have to manufacture an incident: the falling over happens quite naturally when the skates decide to go in one direction while my body goes in another. I’ll blame it on the two girls who’ve stopped to chat at the barrier, leaving me no choice but to grudgingly let go of the safety of the railing and head out into no-man’s land. Farewell dignity, but it’s also a salient lesson in how best to fall (on the bottom, preferably) and how to get up again (easier said than done, the method is to get onto the knees, brace on one and lift yourself up while

13/06/2017 9:57 AM

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* A stay means any number of consecutive nights at one participating Choice hotel located in Australia regardless of check-ins or check-outs, on a qualified Choice Privileges eligible rate. For Choice Privileges rates visit choiceprivileges.com. For full terms see www.choicehotels.com.au/en/shortbreak/terms-and-conditions/. Open to Australian residents over the age of 18. Competition opens 01/04/2017 at 00:01 AEDT and closes 31/12/2017 at 23:59 AEDT. Winners are drawn at 14:00 AEDT on the dates specified in section 30. On the premise of Permitz Group, 39 Greenhaven Drive, Umina Beach NSW. The total prize pool is valued at up to $13,500 (incl. GST). Winners will be notified by phone and email. The competition winners must complete their short breaks 12 months from the date specified in the winners prize pack. The $750 Flight Centre Experience Voucher is redeemable by contacting any Australian Flight Centre retail store and is subject to Flight Centre’s terms and conditions http://www. flightcentre.com.au/cms_images/pdfs/Gift_Card-Terms%20&%20Conditions%20(6%20April%202016).pdf. The Promoter is Choice Hotels Asia-Pac Pty Ltd (ABN 41 081 959 891) of 150 Jolimont Road, East Melbourne VIC 3002. Authorised under: NSW Permit No. LTPS/17/12637. ACT Permit No. TP 17/00537.1. SA Licence No. T17/496.

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

TREE OF LIFE

Spa treatments featuring healing local oils are a specialty of the Cook Islands WORDS JUSTINE COSTGAN

PHOTOGRAPHY PACIFIC RESORT AITUTAKI

1:09 pm

“ALWAYS CHECK for brown coconuts before you park your car,” warns Misepa Isamaela, my guide for the morning as we take a leisurely drive around the pretty villages that dot Aitutaki, the South Pacific island ringed by a reef that’s even more stunning than the postcards would have you believe. Brown (old) coconuts are likely to drop suddenly and a dinged rental car and travel insurance claim is a quick way to holiday stress. And that’s not what the Cook Islands are about, judging by the blissed-out tourists snorkelling in the lagoon or drinking tropical cocktails at beachside bars as the sun goes down. Turns out coconuts are a popular theme in the Cook Islands. Growing wild across the islands

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and prettily lining the roads and beaches, their leaves and husks are used in myriad practical ways, from traditionally woven dinner plates to roof thatching and even the rope that helps the locals jump up the trees to harvest the fruit. Every part of the coconut is put to good use on the 15 islands that make up this South Pacific nation. As well as eating the flesh and drinking the juice, coconuts are cooked up for oil. It’s no wonder the plant is often referred to as “the tree of life”. Locals make oil for their own use but also to sell in the markets and shops. Misepa tells me it’s common to use rich and nurturing homemade coconut oil on your skin and hair, and mothers

It’s no wonder the plant is often referred to as “the tree of life”

use it to massage their babies. Making oil is a slow process, so few locals sell it commercially, but at the Aitutaki market I spy small brown bottles with handmade labels for sale, made by local women. On Rarotonga, the Cook Islands’ capital, local oils feature in the shopping centre and island perfumery. But it’s not

13/06/2017 9:58 AM

Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

Massage with a view

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It’s the perfect secluded spot for a bit of me-time Resort Aitutaki’s Tiare Spa, is using for my healing massage, a 50-minute treatment designed to ease every last bit of city tension from my body. After a chilled lemongrass tea – made from the property’s own plants – Erena talks me through the treatment, checking for any sensitivities and areas that

need extra attention. Set high up on the side of the hill overlooking the resort’s lush tropical garden, the spa is built with a nod to traditional island architecture and includes a shady verandah for posttreatment relaxation. It’s the perfect secluded spot for a bit of me-time. Only a few hours after landing, any post-flight stiffness and tiredness is gone thanks to Erena’s firm, sweeping strokes and perfectly calibrated pressure. The oil leaves my skin feeling soft and supple, and, apart from a very subtle herbal aroma, there’s no overwhelming fragrance or greasy residue. As a fast-track to holiday feel-good vibes, it’s an excellent start. Island time is the

TE MANAVA SPA Rarotonga temanava.com

name that locals give to the relaxed approach to timetables and deadlines in this chilled-out paradise. But it’s also a state-of-mind. By the time I’ve slowly eased myself away from the massage table, donned a robe and settled myself by the pool with a chilled coconut for refreshment, time is a concept that’s as remote as my location in the middle of the Pacific. Justine Costigan was a guest of Cook Islands Tourism

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to the Cook Islands with connections via Auckland. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY PACIFIC RESORT AITUTAKI

TIARE SPA Pacific Resort Aitutaki massages start from NZ$90 for a 30-minute back and neck massage to NZ$145 for the Te Tika Healing Massage. Pacificresort.com

A massage bed with a view at Pacific Resort Aitutaki. BELOW: A manicure at Tiare Spa.

just coconut oil that’s an ingredient in these beauty products. Commercial producers of local oils also include extracts from Cook Island plants known for their healing qualities. Australian company CIMTECH is now producing a bioactive oil using Cook Islands plants that is used and for sale in many island spas and local boutiques. It’s this locally sourced Te Tika oil that Erena, my therapist at the Pacific

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Experience I RECIPE

A little taste of Paris

How sweet it is

Bite into a little taste of France this month, with patisserie queen Agathé Kerr’s indulgent nutella brioche WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

hen it comes to superb pastries and

cakes, it’s hard to think of a country with better credentials than France. The home of the croissant, that flaky crescent-shaped buttery pastry commonly eaten for breakfast, the French knack with butter, flour and sugar continues to

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inspire pastry chefs from all over the world. Melbourne may be half a world away from the home of patisserie but when it comes to authentic French fare, the city’s residents have nothing to complain about. From global boulanger Gontran Cherrier and Frenchtrained pastry chef Kate Reid of Insta-famous Lune Croissanterie to

the countless artisan patisseries throughout the city and suburbs, Melburnians are never far away from a great pastry. One of the city’s favourites is located in the atmospheric South Melbourne Market, celebrating its 150th birthday this year. Agathé Kerr’s Agathé Pâtisserie is the place to find classic authentic French pastries, from croissants

to canelés, friands and Danish pastries, in familiar as well as unusual flavours such as matcha, pandan and even squid ink. The French born and trained pastry chef permanently settled in Australia in 2013, after brief stints working here in the early 2000s, and, after a trial run with a pop-up at the Prahran Market, opened

13/06/2017 10:01 AM

Experience I RECIPE

PHOTOGRAPHY AGATHÉ’S PÂTISSERIE

Every day my mum would buy me a chocolate croissant after school her patisserie in South Melbourne’s market in 2015, with a tiny hole-inthe-wall store in the city’s Royal Arcade following earlier this year. Her famous nutella brioche (recipe on right) has a cult following and was inspired by fond childhood memories. “Afternoon tea is very important in France and every day my mum would buy me a chocolate croissant after school,” says Agathé, who grew up in the suburbs of Paris. Agathé’s nutella brioche was a unique response to the donut craze. “But we don’t do donuts so we came up with this instead.” July is a special month for Agathé, as French people all over the world celebrate French

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National Day, also known as Bastille Day, on the 14th. In Paris, the day is marked with a grand march along the city’s famous avenue, the Champs Elysees, followed by a firework display. “It’s a lovely thing to do with the kids,” says Agathé. Each year the South Melbourne Market has a little party with music and dancing to mark the occasion. Agathé has plans for a French theme in both stores to celebrate the day. She will also be baking her nutella brioche all month, bringing back one of her customers’ alltime pastry favourites. Find Agathé Pâtisserie at the South Melbourne Market (market hours) and the Royal Arcade, Melbourne CBD. Open Tuesday to Friday, 8am-3pm. agathe.com.au

INGREDIENTS

Nutella brioche RECIPE METHOD Place the yeast, milk and water in the bowl of an electric mixer and stir until the yeast dissolves. Add the flour, sugar, salt and eggs. Mix at low speed using a dough hook attachment until combined, then increase the speed to medium and beat until the dough no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl. Cut the butter into small pieces and beat with the dough until combined. Shape the dough into a ball and place in a clean bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rest in a warm place for one hour (ideally in a turned off oven – temperature should be around 30°). After an hour the dough will have risen. Punch the dough down with your hands to remove the gas, then flatten with your hands. Place on a tray in the fridge to rest for one hour. Take the dough out of the fridge and punch down again. Cut the dough into seven equal

Serves seven • 3g dry yeast • 2.5 tblsp milk • 1 tblsp water • 250g strong flour (also known as bread flour) • 40g sugar • 1 tsp salt • 2 eggs • 150g butter • Nutella EGG WASH • 1 egg • 1 tblsp milk

pieces (approx. 80g each) and roll into balls. Place the brioche on an oven tray (leaving space between each ball of dough) and leave to prove at 30° for 2 hours. The brioche should double in size. Preheat the oven to 170°. Prepare an egg wash by mixing the extra egg and milk. Brush the brioche with the egg wash then bake for 20 min. Take the brioche out of the oven. When still warm, use a knife to make a small hole at the top. Using a piping bag, pipe Nutella inside the warm brioche. Dust with icing sugar and enjoy.

13/06/2017 10:01 AM

Experience I WORK & PLAY

The image Art for commerce’s sake. These top Australian design companies influence how we experience and consume WORDS PETER BARRETT

T 42

heir work is all around us. From the shampoo bottle you reach for in the shower to the chic new restaurant on your must-dine list. They are graphic designers – the image makers – and they create more than posters and websites. Today, these visual creatives cover everything from branding, packaging and interior design to light installations, virtualreality experiences and more. And as the world becomes smaller, thanks to the internet and globalisation, Australian designers are standing out from the crowd for their playful, irreverent and individual take on creativity. Here are three of our best.

Mash, Adelaide What do the UFO Welcome Centre, the International Banana Museum, Billy Tripp’s Mindfield, Hamtramck Disneyland, and a toilet-seat museum have in common? They were all on a list of places to visit and photograph for a recent field trip to the US by Adelaide’s irreverent Mash Design. Creative directors Dom Roberts and James Brown started

The Hotel Jesus fitout by Mash. INSET: Dom Roberts and James Brown.

Australian designers are standing out from the crowd the company 15 years ago with one client, Evo hair and makeup products. The pair now employs eight people in Adelaide and Melbourne, and Evo is still a client, hence the recent trip to the US (a chance to shoot film and stills, and research outsider art for an ongoing campaign). Other clients include restaurants Motel Mexicola in Bali, Hotel Jesus in Melbourne and Africola in Adelaide. Their designs are playful, ironic

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and in touch with popular culture. James calls what they do “artvertising” while Dom has a more pragmatic approach. “I explain it as ‘everything that is seen’,” says Dom. “So, whether it’s a brand or a retail product or whatever, it’s everything that is seen related – that’s where we’re involved.” “It’s culture creation,” says James. “How do we create the culture that we want to exist in?” mashdesign.com.au

Round, Melbourne Husband and wife team Michaela Webb (creative director) and Robert Nudds (strategy director) started Round in Melbourne in 2003 after a stint working in London with global branding firm Wolff Olins. Their first gig was the complete rebranding of the National Gallery of Victoria, which had just undertaken a milestone refurbishment. “It was a mammoth task for a year and then it was another big task the following year, bedding it all down,” says Michaela. The business

13/06/2017 10:04 AM

Experience I WORK & PLAY

43 Loving Earth branding by Round. INSET: Michaela Webb and Robert Nudds. RIGHT: Garbett’s Utzon Room posters. INSET: Paul Garbett and Danielle de Andrade.

grew from two full-time employees to nine, almost overnight. Today Round is a company of 20 and has worked with clients such as Loving Earth (chocolate), Mecca (cosmetics), Hotel Hotel in Canberra, Andrew McConnell restaurants (including Cutler & Co, Cumulus, Meatsmith and Marion), The Saturday Paper and Anna Schwartz Gallery. They worked with chef Dan Hunter on his Birregurra restaurant Brae from its inception. The restaurant this year entered the World’s 50 Best Restaurant List

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at number 44. Their approach made the ingredients the hero – roots, dirt and all. “As designers we’ve done our time and learned all the rules … what we now try to do is make sure it’s empathetic to the people that it talks to.” round.com.au

Garbett, Sydney Paul Garbett discovered his passion for graphic design as a child, growing up in South Africa. His

grandfather used to collect stamps and, although he died before Paul was born, he left behind suitcases full of ephemera, including stamps. “I had quite a strong emotional reaction to these objects and they were all bits of graphic design. That was a big part of why I got into design.” Today, he and partner, fellow South African designer Danielle de Andrade, run Garbett, a cutting-edge studio in Surry Hills. Clients range from start-ups and architects, to real estate companies and magazines such as Fortune and the

Harvard Business Review. Their aesthetic is strong on colour, which could be the influence of the duo’s African roots (think sunsets, open landscapes and the colourful patterns of Ndebele art and fashion). One high-profile project was creating the branding visuals for the Utzon Room of the Sydney Opera House, including a series of posters. “We love designing posters and we see ourselves as global citizens there; we’re interested in interacting with poster designers from different parts of the world,” says Paul. Do they have a design philosophy? “Always try to make things better.” garbett.com.au

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ULURU I JAPAN I FIJI I AND MORE

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MALAYSIA I PENANG

Colour my world

The streets of World-Heritage listed George Town on the island of Penang in Malaysia are awash with colour and culture photography ERIC LAFFORGUE

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13/06/2017 10:06 AM

Meet the neighbours: (left to right) The colourful houses and shopfronts of George Town reflect a fusion of architecture from different cultures. Petai beans, a South-East Asian specialty, ready for sale at market. Three-wheeled trishaws, known locally as beca, are a fixture on Penangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s streets and a great way to explore George Town.

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Previous page: A trishaw waits outside the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion.

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13/06/2017 10:06 AM

Pops of colour: (left to right) A child proudly shows off a male water dragon whose deep green hue matches the building behind. Beca used to be the main mode of transport for locals in George Town. These days drivers often rely on tourists for their income.

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Explore I MALAYSIA

Penang portraits

PENANG

French photographer Eric Lafforgue is inspired by the Malaysian island’s rich heritage George Town

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

PENANG ISL AND

About the photographer

People from all cultures and religions are always happy to be snapped house looks just like it does in the picture; same bright colours, same good taste. I was happy to meet the son of the owner, who studied in France!” As a specialist in cultural and portrait photography, Eric enjoyed working in multicultural Malaysia. “Malaysia is a heaven for photographers. People from all cultures and religions are always happy to be snapped,” he says. “I even came back some years later to find the people in them, and

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found (some of) the old men who like to sit for hours in front of their houses.” When shooting in Penang, Eric prefers to work the streets and surrounds into his portraits “to show how rich the culture is.” Wherever he shoots, Eric applies a similar approach to his portraits. “I try my best to respect people, and show them that I am always searching for a positive way to show their life”.

After a diverse media career, Eric Lafforgue left France to explore little-known places such as North Korea, Papua New Guinea and distant pockets of Africa, quickly gaining the attention of publications around the world with his images. ericlafforgue.com

iclafforgu FOLLOW: @er

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Singapore with connections to Penang. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC LAFFORGUE

ON HIS FIRST TRIP to Penang 10 years ago, photographer Eric Lafforgue was so taken with the heritage houses of the old town that he enquired about prices. Returning a decade on, he found Penang had flourished, and those houses were going for 10 times their original worth. But he only has praise for this revival. “The town has changed for the better,” Eric says. “Many old houses have been converted into hotels or restaurants and, thanks to that, they have kept their unique style or even been reborn from ruins.” Having visited many UNESCO-listed cities, Eric believes Penang has managed to keep its beauty without losing its culture. “Penang has kept its great character without looking like a Disney World,” he says. “I think that as many Malaysian people still live in the old town, this allows them to keep their traditions.” Eric’s favourite photograph from his latest visit was of the elegant Cheong Fatt Tze Chinese Mansion (on page 46-47). “This house is very famous in France as they filmed a movie here with (French actress) Catherine Deneuve. The

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QUEENSLAND I HAMILTON ISLAND

Hamilton Island

BRISBANE Whitehaven Beach from above. CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Taking the sun on Whitehaven Beach, Hamilton Island, rockpool life, Heart Reef, Catseye Beach. OPPOSITE: Whitehaven Beach.

We love the Whitsundays

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DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

PARADISE plored Why linger at your resort when there are adventures of all kinds on offer? WORDS TIANA TEMPLEMAN

Take a scenic helicopter flight over lush green landscapes and sandy atolls, join a snorkelling or sailing tour, go windsurfing or ocean rafting, or take a day trip to famous Whitehaven Beach. The Whitsundays offer all this, plus a few surprises such as camping in the middle of the Great Barrier Reef. Even better, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty of family fun to be found for free.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, JASON HILL, TOURISM WHITSUNDAYS, HAMILTON ISLAND TOURISM

taying at some resorts involves little more than relaxing on a sun lounge and contemplating whether to take another dip before lunch. Not in the Whitsundays. If your family would rather get out and about than lie by the pool, this region is perfect. There are myriad ways to enjoy the Great Barrier Reef and the Whitsunday Islands.

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13/06/2017 10:07 AM

Catseye Beach. INSET: Take advantage of the free watersports. BELOW: Explore the Whitsundays on an ocean raft with oceanrafting.com.au

FREE FUN ON HAMILTON ISLAND You’re unlikely to hear those dreaded words “I’m bored!” on Hamilton Island. All nonmotorised water sports are free for in-house guests. Grab the kids and some kayaks and go for a paddle, hit the beach, try windsurfing or explore the island with a free self-guided audio tour. Add three family-friendly pools to hop between and it is tempting to spend all day in your swimmers. Accommodation ranges from family-friendly holiday homes to the recently refurbished Palm Bungalows, or a room at the high-rise Reef View Hotel. If your kids are under 12, they eat for free from the children’s menu when you stay at either hotel. Dine at Sails for upmarket mod-Oz mains with spectacular views (and a pool for the kids), order gourmet pizzas at Manta Ray, or enjoy Asian hawker food at Coca Chu.

OUT AND ABOUT IN THE WHITSUNDAYS

Venture beyond the resorts and discover amazing aquatic adventures, breathtaking views and more turtles than you can poke an underwater camera at.

PLAY A ROUND WITH THE TURTLES Golfers can play a round at the island’s golf club, which is rumoured to be one of the most challenging courses in the world — not least because it is impossible to keep your eye on the ball when you are surrounded by such jawdropping views. With holes strung along the spectacular ridges and steep valleys of Dent Island, this course offers a variety of obstacles such as swirling winds, impenetrable bushland and a 14th hole dubbed the ‘Valley of Death’. CAMP ON THE GREAT BARRIER REEF Sleep in swags under the stars and explore Australia’s most famous marine playground with just nine other travellers at Reefsleep, an overnight camping experience on the Reefworld pontoon. As the day trippers depart, pull on your stinger suits, masks and fins and slip into the ocean alongside Hardy Reef. Coral gardens sparkle with jewelbright tropical fish and clown fish disappear into anemones tucked into the coral drop-off. Chip, the pontoon’s resident turtle, might also drop in for a

Grab the kids and some kayaks and go for a paddle

visit. Enjoy a barbecue dinner and a peaceful night’s sleep until 11am, when the next load of day trippers arrive. Reefsleep has been refurbished and improved since Cyclone Debbie, which hit Queensland in March.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM WHITSUNDAYS, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, HAMILTON ISLAND TOURISM

Explore I FAMILY FRIENDLY

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HELICOPTER TRIP TO HEART REEF See a different side of the Great Barrier Reef with a one-hour scenic flight that takes in Whitehaven Beach, Hill Inlet, Hook Passage and the many Whitsunday Islands. Rainforest tumbles down rugged hillsides, idyllic rocky bays beckon and crystalline blue waters beg to be explored. Heart Reef, a coral bommie shaped like a heart, is a highlight so have your camera ready. It’s a triple thriller: a helicopter flight, stunning scenery and Instaworthy pics that will make your friends greener than those lush tropical islands with envy.

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GORGEOUS GETAWAY

It used to be one of the Whitsundays’ most upmarket accommodation options, but Palm Bay Resort on Long Island was hit hard by the GFC and closed for a few years. It has reopened as the region’s only fully self-catering resort, suited to those who love the Champagne life but travel on a beer budget. Stock up on your favourite food, drinks and other treats before you leave Airlie Beach, or arrange for supplies to be delivered by Whitsunday Provisioning. Each of the 23 villas offers a five-star stay for a three-star

price, with views of the Coral Sea and Whitsunday Passage. The resort’s flash restaurant no longer operates, but you can still enjoy it. Cook up a storm in the renovated guest kitchen and eat your meal at one of the restaurant’s linen-napped tables set up daily for guests to enjoy. Entertainment options include swimming, snorkelling, whale spotting and hiking through the island’s national park. However, it is hard to beat lying in a hammock and enjoying the view.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Paddling at Catseye Beach, beach cricket, exploring with Cruise Whitsundays, dining at Coca Chu.

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PHOTOGRAPHY HAMILTON ISLAND TOURISM, TOURISM WHITSUNDAYS, COCA CHU

SAILING AND SNORKELLING ADVENTURE Discover the very best of the Whitsundays in one day – the world-famous Whitehaven Beach and the underwater wonders of the Great Barrier Reef – on a tour that ventures beyond the pristine sands of Whitehaven to a secret reef just off Chalkies Beach. Swim at Whitehaven Beach, then climb aboard the Cruise Whitsundays’ dive boat with a handful of other travellers for the transfer to nearby Chalkies reef. Swim with colourful fish and the reef’s resident turtles, enjoy a barbecue on Whitehaven and maybe a game of beach cricket before the return journey.

Im ex the yo tru ha 40 gla co the

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Lucy_R

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking and asks what your secret is. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem. What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill. Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up. New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established. With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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QUEENSLAND I WHITSUNDAYS

Whitsundays

BRISBANE

Culture Culturere

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discovered CRUISE THE WHITSUNDAYS TO DISCOVER THE SECRETS OF ITS FIRST INHABITANTS

PHOTOGRAPHY PHIL AT HD-XPOSURE

WORDS JO STEWART

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Follow ancient trails The Whitsunday Ngaro Sea Trail follows routes that the Ngaro people used up to 9000 years ago.

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Explore I WHITSUNDAYS

n the first morning that I dip my paddle into the crystalline waters of Cid Harbour, the sky above is blue, a soft breeze kisses my cheeks and the water beneath me is so clear that I easily spot opallike shells and tiddlers below. This is just another run-of-the-mill day in the big blue paradise known as the Whitsundays, a place the Ngaro people called home for 9000 years.

A trail for all seasons 62

The Ngaro people no longer inhabit these parts, but a combination of walks and sea journeys across Whitsunday, South Molle and Hook islands provides a link to the area’s Indigenous heritage. Traversing the Ngaro Sea Trail’s channels, walking tracks and cultural sites is one of the best ways to experience the overwhelming beauty of this island group. The mix-and-match trail can be dipped into on a day-trip or enjoyed as a longer, immersive experience. Cruise the area aboard a charter yacht while enjoying hiking and snorkelling adventures, or head out on guided kayaking trips relying on the know-how of local guides. Experienced kayakers can complete the entire Ngaro Sea Trail circuit stopping at camp sites along the way, while beginners might choose to do parts aboard a yacht equipped with glass-bottom kayaks.

Using paperbark canoes to travel between islands, they foraged for oysters and mussels, and hunted for fish and turtles.

Missing pieces

Peak performance Most people associate the Whitsundays with lazy days on white-sand beaches, yet a climb to the top of Whitsunday Peak obliterates all notions of relaxation.

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The five- to six-hour return journey on foot from Whitsunday Island’s Sawmill Beach sounds feasible, but on a humid day the steep climb, accompanied by a chorus of cicadas filling your ears with white noise, is brutal. The rather basic Ngaro Sea Trail Walk passes felled trees and streams and delivers panoramic views of the Whitsundays including Hook, South Molle, Hamilton and Lindeman islands. While some trails and campsites were damaged by Cyclone Debbie in March, local rangers worked hard to repair and reopen the sites soon after.

Hiking the Whitsundays. ABOVE: Paddling and (INSET) hiking on a Salty Dog Sea Kayaking tour.

Prior to the arrival of Europeans, the seafaring Ngaro People had a long synergy with nature. Using paperbark canoes to travel between islands, they foraged for oysters and mussels, and hunted for fish and turtles. That all ended when they

PHOTOGRAPHY SALTY DOG SEA KAYAKING

See the trail on a kayak

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Explore I WHITSUNDAYS

It’s easy to see why this sheltered, peaceful place, fringed by thick greenery and framed by an azure sea, was chosen as a cave art site

Insider tips

were forced off the land (and sea). Tourists previously unaware of this dark chapter of history are now learning about their culture. Home to some of the most mysterious cave art, the Nara Inlet area of Hook Island is an important cultural site and Ngaro Sea Trail landmark. Slipping off my shoes, I hop off the boat, wade through turquoise waters and step ashore to meet Indigenous guide Leo. It’s easy to see why this sheltered, peaceful place, fringed by thick greenery and framed by an azure sea, was chosen as a cave-art site. The art is well preserved and protected from the elements, yet many of the things depicted here remain a mystery. Is that a turtle shell or a fishing net? Is that a map of the local area? Leo, who works for Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service, says that when the elders were removed from this place long

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Cave art at Nara Inlet. ABOVE: The Whitehaven Bay campsite used by Salty Dog Sea Kayaking.

ago, a crucial link was broken and their knowledge was lost. While we may never know the true meaning of the art, its ongoing preservation ensures that future generations will be able to view it and make their own interpretations. This open-air, island gallery may be off the radar, but it’s the cultural anchor of the Ngaro Sea Trail. Don’t miss it.

Salty Dog saltydog.com.au Tourism Whitsundays tourismwhitsundays.com.au

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to the Whitsundays from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY SALTY DOG SEA KAYAKING

Neill Kennedy has run Salty Dog Sea Kayaking for 20 years and knows the Ngaro Sea Trail intimately. His company, operating from Shute Harbour, runs kayaking adventures ranging from half-day jaunts to six-day expeditions. While many parts of the area are safe for inexperienced kayakers, Neill says caution is needed. “There are sections of the Ngaro Sea Trail that inexperienced kayakers could safely paddle without a guide (provided the weather conditions were suitable). However, paddling from campsite to campsite without a guide or a substantial amount of previous sea kayaking experience isn’t recommended,” Neill says. He believes that the shores off Whitehaven Beach are among the best in the world for kayaking. Visitors are advised to check the Queensland Government Department of National Parks, Sports and Racing website for park alerts before planning a trip to the area. npsr.qld.gov.au/park-alerts

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Picture your perfect day Coral Sea Resort, Airlie Beach, Whitsundays Reservations / contact phone number: Free call 1800 075 061 | Phone: 07 4964 1340 Address: 25 Ocean View Avenue, Airlie Beach Q 4802 | Email: weddings@coralsearesort.com Website: www.whitsundaywedding.com.au

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PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, TOURISM WHITSUNDAYS, GETTY IMAGES

Explore I AIRLIE BEACH

Airlie escapades Airlie Beach is known as the gateway to the Whitsundays, but don’t pass through without stopping

WORDS LEE MYLNE

ailing the warm blue waters of the Whitsundays has long been a popular pastime along the Queensland coast. For me, it took on a new dimension on a half-day out skimming along the calm waters of Shute Harbour on an outrigger canoe called Ohana (it’s Hawaiian for family). With the sails up, you can luxuriate in the fact there’s very little paddling to be done (at least on this day) and truly take in the surroundings. Whitsunday Sailing Outrigger owners Stephen and Michelle Lynes take only four guests on each trip from Airlie Beach, offering a very personal experience.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: An aerial view of Airlie Beach, palm trees on Airlie Bay, the swimming pool at Coral Sea Resort.

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Explore I AIRLIE BEACH

Another delight of Airlie Beach is the Bicentennial Boardwalk, which runs for 3.7km

FROM TOP: The Bicentennial Boardwalk, oysters at Hemingway’s, sailing on Airlie Bay.

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I’m lucky enough to be one of only two guests – the other is a French backpacker called Joanni – and although armed with a paddle each, in reality we had little to do. When the sails were set, the wind carried us off to meet turtles and stingrays as they cruised by. Airlie Beach, the Whitsunday Coast resort village that is sometimes overlooked in favour of its glamorous island neighbours, has received a $23 million injection and sports a fresh look. Smart hotels and resorts have sprung up, and the new Port of Airlie marina provides a sophisticated gateway to the islands and the Great Barrier Reef. Here you’ll find the Mantra Boathouse Apartments, which have marina and sea views from the balconies – and the odd visiting sulphur-crested cockatoo. Another good apartment stay, if you don’t mind being a 10-minute (but somewhat steep) walk from the town centre, is Pinnacles Resort. Take in the Coral Sea views from your balcony or the infinity pool. In town, there are many options including the family-friendly BIG4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort, the boutique Heart Hotel and Gallery, or the luxury of the stunning Coral Sea Resort perched on its own little peninsula a five-minute walk from the main street. Coral Sea Resort’s Clipper Restaurant offers fine dining, specialising in local seafood, with ocean views and sea breezes. For more casual fare, head to Mangrove Jacks (reopening early August) where the menu includes pizza, pasta and bar food for the whole family. For the best sunset views

with your drink or dinner, visit the Whitsunday Sailing Club on the foreshore at Airlie Beach or check out Hemingway’s (named for author Ernest Hemingway) at Abell Point Marina. Another delight of Airlie Beach is the Bicentennial Boardwalk, which runs for 3.7km from the Port of Airlie along the coastline to Cannonvale, with fabulous views of boats bobbing on the Coral Sea. At times, the path weaves through stands of mangroves, and sculptures of birds and sea life are dotted along the way. Walk, run, cycle or take a personal motorised scooter tour along the boardwalk, while others soak up the sun on the beach or picnic on the grass. The boardwalk also passes the Airlie Lagoon, a large man-made swimming area. It’s well used yearround but is especially popular during summer when marine stingers make a dip off the beach a bad idea. Stop off near the lagoon at the Beach Book Boutique for a huge selection of new and secondhand books to boost your holiday reading. For other buys, head to the Whitsunday Markets, which sprawl along the esplanade on Saturday mornings. Discover local art and crafts, fresh produce, hand-made jewellery, clothing and souvenirs – and even line up for a camel ride. Along Main Street, Airlie’s holiday atmosphere reigns, with souvenir shops selling brightly coloured shirts and sarongs, buckets and spades, postcards and all things beachy. As those who linger discover, there’s more to Airlie Beach than meets the eye.

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Explore I AUCKLAND SHOPPING GUIDE AUCKLAND

retail remedy 70

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Explore I AUCKLAND SHOPPING GUIDE

Burgery goodness

CLOCKWISE: Bun-free option at Burger Burger, Father Rabbit, The Bread and Butter Letter, Britomart, Ponsonby Road. CENTRE: Burger Burger.

QUEENSTOWN MIGHT HAVE THE BEST VISTAS AND WELLINGTON THE MOST CRAFT BEER TAPS, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO SHOPPING, AUCKLAND IS NEW ZEALAND’S UNDISPUTED CAPITAL. YOU’LL WANT TO ARRIVE WITH PLENTY OF ROOM IN YOUR SUITCASE WORDS ALICE GALLETLY

PONSONBY If you only have a few hours Tip:

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS MCLENNAN, AUCKLAND TOURISM

Ponsonby is short on parking. Unless you want to spend an hour circling the surrounding streets in a state of growing hysteria, arrive via Link bus or take an Uber.

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free for shopping, spend them in Ponsonby. This inner suburb, just 2km west of the central business district, offers the highest concentration of boutiques and great restaurants, with the added bonus of charming heritage villas and lofty views over the city. It’s a pleasant place to burn through your cash.

Marques’Almeida sit alongside like-minded local designers Jimmy D and Taylor. Fashionistas find their NZ-designed jeans and luxe basics at Workshop. Scotties Recycle, on Blake Street at the suburb’s northern end, is the place to nab pre-loved clothing from brands including Dries Van Noten, Comme Des Garcons and Marni.

JERVOIS ROAD Jervois Road, technically in the suburb of Herene Bay, has a cluster of great shops about a 10-minute walk from the northern end of Ponsonby Road. Simon James Concept Store sells supercool, globally-sourced home and design objects, plus a small selection of Auckland’s hippest fashion labels. Father Rabbit is the place to find kitchen products and linens with a minimalist, organic aesthetic, and Tessuti sells a beautifully curated selection of imported European gifts and homewares. 71

PONSONBY ROAD It’s known as Auckland’s hippest strip, and for good reason. Just about every local fashion label you can think of is represented (think Ruby, Zambesi, Juliette Hogan and Karen Walker), plus many one-of-a-kind boutiques. Don a flowing silk gown from Miss Crabb and pair it with a bra (worn deliberately showing) from cult lingerie label Lonely. Treasure hunters can forage for trinkets, antiques and furniture at Flotsam & Jetsam, and savvy secondhand dressers will love Tatty’s for designer recycled clothing. Other unique-to-Ponsonby-Road shops include Widdess for floaty, whimsical women’s clothing in natural fabrics, Curio Noir for exquisite handmade perfumes and candles, and Everyday Needs for homewares with a minimalist Japanese aesthetic.

AROUND PONSONBY Some of Ponsonby’s best stores are not on the main road. Head to Mackelvie Street for luxurious deer skin leather bags at Deadly Ponies and next door to The Shelter, where edgy international labels such as MM6 Maison Margiela and

Ponsonby eats The burgers at Ponsonby Central’s Burger Burger are legendary, as are the chewy, Neapolitan-style slices at neighbouring Dante’s Pizza. If you fancy lingering, try the authentic northern Thai at Saan, aesthetically pleasing plates at Orphans Kitchen, or modern Chinese at The Blue Breeze Inn. For drinks, head to The Golden Dawn, Mia Culpa or Conch.

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Explore I AUCKLAND SHOPPING GUIDE

CENTRAL Stretching from Britomart by the harbour to Karangahape Road, the central city is full of great shops. The key is to venture off the main commercial thoroughfare of Queen Street — that is, unless you want to brave the chaos of Topshop, or visit souvenir shops and luxury bag stores catering for cruiseship tourists at the harbour end.

HIGH STREET

Bolt of Cloth. ABOVE: Te Ara Tahuhu pedestrian strip in Britomart. BELOW RIGHT: Cafe Hanoi.

BRITOMART Auckland’s newest shopping precinct has a mix of hip restaurants, cool global brands and high-end local labels. Discover the flagship boutiques of two of NZ’s most iconic fashion labels, Zambesi and Kate Sylvester, on Tyler Street. Nearby World stocks exotic beauty products from around the globe. Unique-to-Britomart stores include Kathryn Wilson, the flagship store of NZ’s most successful shoe designer; Fabric, which sells high-end streetwear from brands such as Comme des Garcons and Isabel Marant; and Made, with its mix of NZ and French labels.

KARANGAHAPE ROAD “K Road” is better known for its nightlife than its shopping, but there are plenty of second-hand stores and eclectic boutiques worth seeking out. For NZ-made and Pacific Rim-inspired gifts, head to K Road institution Buana Satu. Helter Skelter, just off K Road on Beresford

The city is packed with great places to stop and refuel. In Britomart, try Cafe Hanoi for contemporary Vietnamese, Ortolana for an elegant garden-to-table lunch, or Miann for exquisite handmade desserts. Further uptown, Federal Street is the home of Al Brown’s fast-paced and fabulous restaurants: eatery and oyster bar Depot and the New York deli-style Federal Delicatessen. On K Road, head to the ever-popular Coco’s Cantina for homestyle Italian, or Sri Pinang for cheap-and-cheerful Malaysian.

Square, is the place to source cool vintage homewares, while Vixen Vintage Boutique in St Kevin’s Arcade is heavy on rockabilly and Americana-style threads. The Bread and Butter Letter sells locally made gifts and homewares as well as on-trend vintage clothing. Vinyl collectors will love indie record store Flying Out (just off K Road on Pitt Street), while art lovers should visit contemporary gallery Artspace for affordable prints and merchandise.

NEWMARKET Newmarket’s arterial road, Broadway, is New Zealand’s busiest shopping strip, with hundreds of stores selling everything from hiking gear to underwear, cosmetics and flat-screen TVs. It can get manic on weekends, but thankfully the best shops are tucked down quieter side streets.

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TEED STREET AND SURROUNDS Venture down Teed Street from Broadway, or down Osborne Lane from Khyber Pass Road, and you’ll find a small network of streets and lanes packed with tempting boutiques. For New Zealand-made women’s clothing, check out Ingrid Starnes, Twenty-Seven Names and Andrea Moore. Fancy doing a bit of home decorating? Nest specialises in Pinterest-worthy homewares, while Bolt of Cloth stocks home furnishings and fabrics in bold, colourful prints, including a wide range from Finnish brand Marimekko.

NUFFIELD STREET As soon as you step into Indie Home Collective, you’ll want to redo your home in shades of white and natural wood. That is, if you haven’t already blown the budget on a new outfit at

Karen Walker or Superette. To blend in with the locals, pick out some fresh threads from NZ’s much-loved streetwear label Huffer, or, if you’d rather stand out in bold colours and prints, head to NZ’s only outpost for Australian women’s label Gorman.

PHOTOGRAPHY CAM MCLAREN, AUCKLAND TOURISM

City dining

High Street, parallel to Queen, is home to most of the CBD’s smaller boutiques. Auckland’s sharpest male dressers get their suits tailor-made at Crane Brothers, while the small but perfectly formed Unity Books is stacked with great reading material. Take a detour down Little High Street and discover vintage treasure trove Tango. Follow High Street up to Lorne Street to the Gow Langsford Gallery, where you can view (and buy, for a pretty penny) works by NZ artists such as Dick Frizzell and Karl Maughan.

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Explore I AUCKLAND SHOPPING GUIDE

Retro inspired

Sleep on it UPTOWN If you fancy swanning about in a fluffy bathrobe, dining on high tea and swimming in a heated rooftop pool, head straight to The Langham on Symonds Street for unrivalled elegance and comfort. Alternatively, check into the newly refurbished Grand Millennium Hotel for city-centre convenience and a room with a view.

DOWNTOWN Not only does it house one of the cosiest bars in the city, Hotel De Brett (above) on Lower High Street also has the coolest rooms in town. Fusing Art Deco features with bold, modern interiors, the luxury boutique hotel has 25 individually designed rooms, each featuring eclectic furniture and NZ art. If you prefer sea views, the Auckland Waterfront Serviced Apartments on Princes Wharf are so close to the water you’ll think you’re on a cruise ship.

SUBURBAN GEMS

PONSONBY

TOP TO BOTTOM: Mixt, The Department Store, Hard To Find Books.

Ponsonby has two good B&B options, both in charming heritage homes. The Great Ponsonby Arthotel is just a two-minute stroll from the main road and has 12 rooms decorated in New Zealand and Pacific art. Ponsonby Manor is located on Ponsonby Road in a recently restored Victorian mansion, and its light-filled, modern rooms are just steps from some of Ponsonby’s best restaurants.

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PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON WILSON

There are a few other great stores scattered around Auckland’s suburbs. Over the bridge in Takapuna, The Department Store houses a carefully edited selection of NZ’s trendiest fashion, interior and beauty brands. While you’re on the North Shore, check out Northcote’s Junk & Disorderly for eclectic second-hand furniture and homewares. Lovers of rare and used books could easily lose an afternoon at Hard To Find Books in Onehunga, while Time Out Bookstore in Mount Eden has the best selection of new books, as well as a helpful team of bibliophiles to make recommendations. Over in Kingsland, pick up NewZealand made Kiwiana and retro-inspired homewares and gifts at Mixt, or unique, locally designed jewellery at Royal Jewellery Studio.

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Explore I ULURU

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FOODIE TRAILS AT AYERS ROCK RESORT OFFER A NEW (AND DELICIOUS) PERSPECTIVE ON INDIGENOUS CULTURE

PHOTOGRAPHY VOYAGES AYERS ROCK RESORT

WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

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Explore I ULURU

CLOCKWISE: The Field of Light in daylight with views of Uluru, Leroy Lester, a dish at Arnguli, Leroy leads a tour, Field of Light, Sails in the Desert. MIDDLE: Unripe native figs. OPPOSITE: Bush tucker.

Beautiful sunset colours

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Explore I ULURU

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Your tour guide

Our bush tucker lesson involves getting to know various fruits, seeds and leaves

TOP TO BOTTOM: Learning about bush tucker, dinner in the desert, Mark Olive.

native ingredients, helping to make them a part of ordinary Australians’ weekly shop. Bush Tucker Journeys’ ambassador, chef Mark Olive, has been beating the drum for native ingredients for more than 25 years. And while these ingredients are making their way onto the menus of fine dining restaurants (think last year’s Noma Australia pop-up at Sydney’s Barangaroo and the work of Ben Shewry from Melbourne’s acclaimed Attica, among many others), it’s the challenge of making them accessible and user-friendly has been Mark’s focus. The host of The Chefs’ Line on SBS and NITV’s Country Kitchen, Mark says he is finally starting to see results, with interest from overseas on Australia’s trendy ‘new food’. But there’s still a way to go with the local market. Mark believes the best way to get people to embrace native foods is to make eating and using them an accessible and enjoyable experience. As well as the specific experiences on offer, every café, bar and restaurant at Ayers Rock Resort features native ingredients on the menu. At Arnguli, the recently renovated grill and restaurant

PHOTOGRAPHY VOYAGES AYERS ROCK RESORT

eroy Lester has a way with words. As he describes the taste of one of his favourite native fruits, mouths inevitably start watering. “Better than a rhubarb pie,” he says. “Especially with custard”. Our Indigenous teacher for the next 45 minutes, Leroy is extolling the virtues of the desert peach or quandong, a red-fleshed fruit with a sweet and tangy taste that’s just begging to be encased in buttery pastry and drizzled in vanilla sauce. One of the daily free activities for guests at Ayers Rock Resort, our bush tucker lesson involves getting to know various fruits, seeds and leaves, an entertaining wattleseed shortbread cooking lesson, and a perspective on native ingredients that has opened our eyes to a new way of appreciating the landscape around us. Offering guests an insight into the region’s many layers of Indigenous culture is the focus of a year-round program that involves arts, performance, special events and cultural tours. So much more than geological wonders to be ticked off your travel to-do list, a visit to the World Heritage-listed Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park provides an opportunity to dive deeper into a range of fascinating Indigenous experiences. And as always with any cultural immersion, food is a great place to start. As part of Uluru Feastival, a new series of bush tucker focused foodie weekends that kicks off in August, native ingredients tell the story of Indigenous culinary creativity. From Leroy’s lesson to guided garden walks, a masterclass and a tasting dinner in the dunes, these bush tucker experiences are part of a bigger plan to raise awareness of

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See the light

80 at the Desert Gardens Hotel, ingredients such as sea parsley, cinnamon myrtle, candied rosella, Davidsons plum and mountain pepper are seamlessly integrated into the menu. And cocktails made with native ingredients are a specialty resortwide. Trying these new flavours at Uluru is a pleasurable and fun journey through Australia’s natural bounty. A few hours after an hourlong masterclass with Mark, Feastival participants mingle atop a sand dune sipping lemon aspen-infused gin cocktails, while admiring the setting sun bathing Uluru in a golden glow. We nibble delicate kangaroo crostini and crocodile canapés with pickled muntries – a native berry. Then, as the sun sets, we walk a lighted path to our outdoor dining room, complete with warming camp fires and a bright full moon. A menu celebrating the flavours of the landscape is a fitting end to

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our bush tucker experiences. From elegant crisp fried snapper with cauliflower and bunya nut puree and native succulents to a delightfully wobbly yoghurt pannacotta matched with poached quandong and green ant and coconut snow, it’s the perfect finish to a fascinating culinary exploration. If this is the future of Australian cuisine, we’re in good hands. Uluru Feastival runs on 18-20 August, 3-5 November 2017, and 9-11 March and 22-24 June 2018. Justine Costigan was a guest of Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Uluru from Melbourne and Sydney. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY VOYAGES AYERS ROCK RESORT

A bush tucker cooking class under Leroy’s supervison. BOTTOM RIGHT: Bruce Munro’s Field of Light.

From a high sand dune in the middle of Australia, the last rays of the sun dip below the horizon and the impressive silhouette of Uluru finally fades to black. A ripple of excitement travels through our group. Before us, in a stretch of land that appears to reach to the horizon, 50,000 glass stems and their spheres start to glow, creating soft swathes of colour that echo the movement of an impressionist painting. In this raw, wild and ancient landscape, the beauty of this unique work of art takes your breath away. Launched last year, internationally acclaimed artist Bruce Munro’s Field of Light installation has wowed more than 120,000 visitors, and now, with the work extended until 31 March 2018, even more visitors will have the opportunity to experience this extraordinary installation. A deeply personal creation, Bruce says his work is a direct response to seeing Uluru as a young man, when he travelled through Australia with his then girlfriend, now wife, Serena. Long after Bruce returned to his home in the UK, the impact of the visit to Uluru stayed with him and his installation, first displayed in a local field, finally made it to its natural home, more than two decades after he first conceived it. The installation isn’t designed to compete with the land or sky, Bruce says. “It’s a simple thing, it’s about feeling…and allowing nature to tell you the answers.” For more information or to book your Field of Light experience, visit ayersrockresort.com.au/events

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For more information about these events, visit www.northernterritory.com/ events Picture: Parrtjima – A Festival in Light, Alice Springs

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All hail

Hakuba

Dry-powder days and quirky, fun-filled nights are just the snow-covered tip of this Japanese ski resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charm WORDS GEORGIA HOPKINS

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n each visit to Japan, I am constantly delighted by the kind and gentle hospitality offered by the Japanese people. Known as omotenashi (defined as the art of selfless hospitality and the cornerstone of Japanese culture), tourists are welcomed with warmth, understanding and respect.

Hakuba, one of Japan’s largest and most popular ski resorts, has omotenashi in abundance. Located 44km west of Nagano (about one hour’s drive) on the island of Honshu and about 270km northwest of Tokyo, Hakuba is a pretty mountain town that is also blessed with ‘Japow’ – an abundance of snow and endless dry

powder days. An annual snowfall of 12 metres, plenty of sunny days and excellent snow quality make for very appealing skiing. While Australia and NZ receive an average of 10 to 20 quality powder days each winter, Hakuba averages 70 to 80 – quality and quantity hard to match elsewhere in the world.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY

Check out the view!

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As Australian winter Olympian, Steve Lee explains, “Good snow equals good atmosphere, great snow means great atmosphere.” Steve competed in the ’84, ’88 and ’92 Winter Olympics, then spent another 10 years on pro-circuits for a competitive career lasting 25 years. He is based in Hakuba half the year and runs breathtaking ski tours through the Hakuba Valley. Steve’s Earn your Turns tour takes skiers into Hakuba’s amazing backcountry, with options suitable for firsttime touring (skiers or snowboarders who can already ride all terrain and powder well but have never hiked/toured for it) to the most experienced. Steve also ensures you get great riding right off the lifts, both within skiing boundaries and

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through backcountry gates. It’s an incredible way to experience the mountains. Hakuba has been a skiing area for more than 100 years: skiing was introduced to the valley pre-World War I and the modern village was established in the ’50s. By the late ’80s, Japan enjoyed the largest skiing industry in the world, with a reported 20 million local skiers. The 1998 Winter Olympic Games, held in nearby Nagano, put Hakuba on the map for the foreign crowd. With direct Jetstar flights from Gold Coast and Cairns to Tokyo (Narita), you can be in the heart of Hakuba within hours of touching down. From Narita airport, the best option is to take the train to Tokyo (or Ueno) and then the Shinkansen (bullet train)

Good snow equals good atmosphere, great snow means great atmosphere

to Nagano. Train travel in Japan is not only easy and efficient, but also incredibly picturesque. From there, it is a short bus ride to Hakuba. The resorts’ ski lifts might be a little older but they do the job. Outside of the busiest times in the season, you rarely have to queue (especially once away from the mountain base), and with 10 resorts to choose from, there is always a good, uncrowded option. In peak winter, Hakuba has a great atmosphere and is attracting growing numbers of skiers from Australia and NZ. The après scene might not live up to that of the US, Canada or Europe,

PHOTOGRAPHY JNTB, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Heart of the valley

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...tourists are welcomed with warmth, understanding and respect

The Thousand Mountain Inn. LEFT: In hot water at Obinata Onsen, stretching at a Komorebi Yoga class.

the best backcountry runs and out in the open air. Other noteworthy options include Mimizukuno-yu (for its beautiful mountain views), the onsen at Highland Hotel, and Shobei-no-yu at the Mominoki Hotel. For another way to find your zen, try the Komorebi Yoga classes held at the Hakuba Shakespeare Hotel to relieve those tired

skiing muscles. Accommodation in Hakuba ranges from traditional ryokans to aspirational designer lodges, which means there are options to suit every style and budget. The new House of Finn Juhl Hakuba is a Scandinavian/Japanese design lodge named after a Danish architect and interior and industrial

PHOTOGRAPHY THOUSAND MOUNTAIN INN, OBINATA ONSEN, KOMOREBI YOGA

but Japan offers loads of quirky bars and small restaurants, and great hospitality from friendly and happy locals. There are endless eating and drinking options, but a must-try izakaya is a tiny hut on the main street of Echoland called Izakaya Hie. Dark, cosy, with notes and charms pinned to its walls and statues of maneki-neko (lucky) cats aplenty, this dimly lit izakaya offers delicious Japanese-style tapas (try the chicken skewers and the deep-fried avocado), as well as an extensive selection of fine sake. For coffee and lunch, head to Penguin Cafe for fried-chicken sandwiches and delicious Aussie-style coffee. For late-night drinking, choose from hip Western bars including Refuel, Recovery, Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Cross Bar and The Beach Bar, all in Happo Village. Try Yohei Club or Hakubar for a more Japanese vibe and the very popular Mockingbird and Master Braster reggae bar in Echoland. Japanese ski resorts also boast the beautiful tradition of hot spring bathing. Onsens, natural hot springs, make for welcome relief after a day on the slopes. Obinata Onsen on Olympic Road is recommended by locals. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s off the beaten track, right at the end of one of

S o

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Cold outside, cosy within

More winter wonders

It is filled with Finn Juhl’s modern, minimalist furniture Onsen with a mountain view at KAI Alps resort in Nagano. ABOVE: Stylish furniture and a snow-capped exterior at House of Finn Juhl Hakuba.

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For visitors planning a longer stay, Nagano’s spectacular winter landscapes offer plenty of interesting options. Liyama City’s annual snow festival (held on the second weekend of February each year) features larger-thanlife snow sculptures, a fire festival and traditional parades. In Liyama’s Kamakura village, stay in a kamakura (snow hut). At night the small, igloo-like ice houses glow with lights that sparkle in the snow. go-nagano.net Every visit to Nagano in winter should include an excursion to see the prefecture’s famous snow monkeys. Watching these Japanese Macaques with their snow-encrusted fur taking a bath in the region’s natural hot springs is a sight to behold. en.jigokudani-yaenkoen. co.jp/

Wander through the Kiso Valley, a trade route that used to connect Kyoto and Tokyo. The beautifully preserved villages and winding mountain streets of the Nakasendo Trail offer a glimpse of traditional Japanese life. okujapan.com/trips/ winter-nakasendo-trail-91 An onsen experience is a Japan must-do. The refurbished luxury KAI Alps hot springs resort re-opens in December in time for the winter season and will offer spectacular views of the Japanese Alps, traditional irori sunken fireplaces, regional sakes, and hot springs with mountain and forest views. hoshinoresorts.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Tokyo from Cairns and Gold Coast. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY FINN JUHL HAKUBA LODGE, HOSHINO RESORTS

designer, best known for his furniture design. The lodge offers simplicity at its finest, coupled with a Scandinavian and Japanese design aesthetic and hospitality. It is filled with Finn Juhl’s modern, minimalist furniture and there is a cosy drinking den downstairs serving local Nagano red wines. It is quiet, intimate and perfectly located only a two-minute walk from the bustling main street of Echoland where buses work constantly to ferry skiiers and snowboarders to the mountain daily. For bigger groups of of six to 12 people, try Thousand Mountain Inn or for a more traditional Japanese experience, there’s Pension Bel Nina. With lovely, Japanese hosts and a pretty location, it is surrounded by trees, in the heart of the Echoland action.

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L AUNCESTON

Cold comforts

HOBART

With bright, crisp days and stunning views, winter offers a unique perspective on Tasmaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enduring appeal. Max Brearley takes a road trip to remember

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON

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the first glimpse of the season is filled with anticipation

Making a point Mid Winter Fest in the Huon Valley. MAIN: Pumphouse Point on Lake St Clair.

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From the coast we take a winding route inland through the Central Highlands to Lake St Clair at the southern end of the World-Heritage listed Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. Only two years old, Pumphouse Point has already become a Tasmanian icon. The converted pumping station, now a luxury hotel, sits out on Australia’s deepest lake, linked to the shore by a long concrete walkway. You don’t simply happen upon Pumphouse Point; booking is essential. Its boutique design and staff who revel in Lake St Clair’s

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON, TOURISM TASMANIA, KATE BERRY, NATALIE MENDHAM

inter in Tasmania offers the perfect time for discovery: mild days, deserted beaches and a welcome chance to sit by a log fire, crack a bottle and marvel at the views. Touching down in Hobart for the first time, Tasmania feels familiar. I’ve got good mates here and, like so many others, I’ve seen the TV shows and read the stories that proclaim Tassie as a must-visit destination; an island state of wilderness, whisky, wine, good food and art. We head up the east coast in our van to Freycinet National Park, a place where plans go awry in favour of just one more night in this wild and beautiful place – there are deserted beaches that beg to be walked and many a road-trip detour. May to July is primetime for whale migration and the east coast is the best place to spot them. At home in Augusta (Western Australia) I’ve seen my share of whales, but whether it’s a southern right or a humpback, the first glimpse of the season is filled with anticipation. There’s no limit to the excitement of seeing a whale breach. The 100th time can still feel like the first.

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Wild for winter

ABOVE: A whale surfaces off the Tasmanian coast. TOP RIGHT: In costume for the Huon Valley’s Mid Winter Fest.

splendour as much as the guests are essential ingredients. A pontoon of rowboats is available, and most guests opt to paddle out well after breakfast. We ask if we can go early and receptionist Lauren doesn’t skip a beat. She’ll meet us at 5am. One of the great pleasures of Pumphouse Point is its communal dinners, which have the feel of the best dinner parties where wine flows, conversation wanders and there’s lots of laughter. Next day, it’s 5am and we’re up and out. Lauren, true to her word, meets us for our safety briefing. We launch the boat into the lake.

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Shrouded in mist, it’s proof that Tassie’s beauty is as much in what you can’t see as what you can. The invigorating morning chill makes breakfast all the more deserved. Later, we slather fresh honeycomb over toast, enjoying the warmth of a log fire and the smug satisfaction of being the only ones to have already braved the lake. Regretfully leaving Lake St Clair, we head towards the Huon Valley, 25 minutes south of Hobart. After a couple of weeks on the road, an invite to dinner with food writer Michelle Crawford is an opportunity for a home-cooked meal. The

outdoor oven crackles and glows as we look out over the valley, the Huon River snaking below. Michelle and her husband Leo gave up life in Sydney more than a decade ago. There have surely been challenges along the way but, as we devour the last crumbs of Michelle’s dessert, I’m guessing it’s a move they don’t regret. Tasmanians, whether they are born and bred or later arrivals, take distinct pride in their state, offering tips for the best visit – sampling east-coast wines at The Farm Shed in Bicheno perhaps, lunch for the road at Summer Kitchen Bakery in Ranelagh, laidback wine tastings and woodfired pizza at Pooley Wines in Richmond or an essential pub experience at Hobart’s The Whaler. Matthew Evans of TV’s Gourmet Farmer stands tall in his purposebuilt Huon Valley kitchen, designed to provide workshops, classes and home-cooked meals for the many fans of his books and TV show. The benches are filled with produce and his small team is prepping alongside him. He greets us with a smile and a taste of slow-roasted pork, fresh from the wood-fired oven. Jars of preserved veggies are interspersed with Matthew’s books and those of collaborators. We’re at the new incarnation of Fat Pig Farm, where Matthew and partner Sadie Chrestman have taken a further leap in their food journey.

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Fresh from the ocean

Don’t miss

Art done anew Back in Hobart we board the Musuem of Old and New Art’s (MONA) ROMA ferry. The crew, dressed in boiler suits and commando boots, cut a dash that’s very MONA: functional, stylish, with a strange sense of the anarchic. Seated on a plastic sheep

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I enjoy a beer for the short journey up river to the gallery, which has been one of the main drawcards for this visit to Hobart. Hewn into rock, dark and subterranean, it’s an experience as significant as the first time you roam London’s Tate Modern or spiral up the Guggenheim in New York. Down in The Void, the starting point of any exploration of the museum, a mature couple look confused; the woman seated in a wheelchair, the husband grasping the visual and audio guides. A gallery assistant approaches and explains the layout and essential info. As he turns to walk away he stops and says ”Oh, and don’t forget. Four o’clock.” The couple look at each other. And then, with comic precision, “Four o’clock. It’s when we have wheelchair races.” A long pause, as the comment hangs in the air. A few intakes of breath and then the tension is cut, the woman howling with laughter, her chair rocking perilously. As the husband wheels his wife away they’re still laughing, ready for what lies ahead. I wonder if there’s a training program here that teaches the MONA philosophy to other museums. The stiff collar, art-in-aspic approach has no place here. There’s no ‘don’t do this’ and ‘don’t do that’. It’s engaging. It’s distinctly Tasmanian.

HOBART Festival of Voices Until 16 July festivalofvoices.com HUON VALLEY Mid Winter Festival 14-16 July huonvalleymidwinterfest. com.au LATROBE Chocolate Winter Festival 13 August chocolatewinterfest. com.au

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Launceston and Hobart, and extensive car hire options. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA, NICK OSBORNE, SCOTT SPORLEDER MATADOR, ROB BURNETT

The buildings have a view of the farm: a true farm-to-table experience. “It’s like a dinner party, as if you are at our own farmhouse table,” Matthew says. “Bringing the produce from out there into the kitchen.” Walking the garden, alongside a paddock of pigs, there’s conversation about the price of pork, the veggies they are growing, the mindset of the consumer and a heap of other issues. Matthew and Sadie have created a space where people come to eat and learn to cook, but also go away with some subtle guidance on the way we should be thinking about food. On the way to Hobart we detour to Willie Smith’s cidery and hop across the D’Entrecasteaux Channel to Bruny Island for oysters, Australia’s best cheese and good beer at Nick Haddow’s Bruny Island Cheese Co. We leave with the impression that Tasmania is not a quick tick-box destination, but an island to be tasted year-round with the seasons.

Heading to Tasmania this winter? Don’t miss these great winter celebrations.

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PHOTOGRAPHY DOUBLETREE RESORT BY HILTON FIJI, YASAWA ISLAND RESORT

FIJI I FIVE WAYS

FIJI ISLANDS

Vanua Levu

NADI

Viti Levu SUVA

FIJI

5WAYS #1 STRANDED IN PARADISE

SPEND A LONG, LAZY AFTERNOON INDULGING IN YOUR OWN PRIVATE-ISLAND FANTASY

WORDS SHERIDEN RHODES

ISLAND FANTASY TOP TO BOTTOM: Yawini Island, sunset stroll at DoubleTree Resort by Hilton Fiji – Sonaisali Island, Yasawa Island Resort.

Lazy days

I don’t know how your ultimate fantasy plays out, but mine involves a boat ride across water the colour of gin, a bottle of chilled white wine, a book I can’t put down and a deserted island. I’m not talking about the Tom Hanks Cast Away experience. Rather, I’m keen on a more refined shipwreck scenario, in which I am a mere radio call from civilisation. In my fantasy, I have a tiny atoll, or an empty stretch of white sand, all to myself for one long, lazy afternoon. There’s a hammock slung between swaying palms, coconut juice plucked straight from the tree, a flawless reef teeming with tropical fish and absolutely nowhere to be.

LIVING THE DREAM In Fiji, however, this isn’t the stuff of fantasy. I’ve lived this dream several times. With 330 islands (many of them uninhabited) scattered across roughly 1.3 million square

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kilometres of the South Pacific, it’s remarkably easy to do. Resorts across the archipelago – including Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Island Resort, Laucala, Vomo, Castaway, Koro Sun and Yasawa Island Resort – will pack you off with a decadent picnic and snorkelling and kayak gear, and deliver you to your own deserted island.

FIJI TIME Kick back as you tuck into a lunch of lobster salad, sushi and tropical fruit, accompanied by Champagne, or your favourite bottle of wine. If you have kids in tow, there are hermit crabs to collect, sandcastles to be built, snorkelling in shallow reefs and kayak adventures. Swim through fish-filled waters, relax on a sunbed and let Fiji time wash over you. When you’re done, simply use a two-way radio to let your ‘rescuers’ know you’re ready to face the world again.

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Explore I FIJI CLOCKWISE: Family time in Fiji, visiting a local village, making friends at Kula Eco Park.

#2 CHILD’S PLAY THE KEY TO A PEACEFUL FAMILY HOLIDAY IS TO CHOOSE A SPOT THAT KEEPS THE KIDS ENTERTAINED WORDS NICOLA CONVILLE

ALL-AGES ESCAPISM

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FOR THE BIG KIDS There’s plenty on offer for older kids too. At Outrigger on Viti Levu, teens can go on a group hike or learn the art of spear-making. Malolo Island’s Khail’s Club provides a space for teenagers to relax and enjoy table tennis, TV and free wi-fi. Water sports such as kayaking, diving and paddle boarding are also widely available, while JeanMichel Cousteau Resort on Vanua Levu offers snorkelling sessions with a marine biologist. You can also take a trip to a local village, church or school. Many of the resorts sponsor local schools and guests can bring small gifts, such as books or stickers, to share with the students.

Kids aged seven to 12 can sign up to be park rangers and help feed the animals

WILD ADVENTURE Kula Eco Park on Viti Levu is also worth a visit – the awardwinning wildlife park gives kids a chance to see iguanas, snakes, sea turtles and tropical birds. Kids aged seven to 12 can sign up to be park rangers and help feed the animals. Zip Fiji on Viti Levu, with locations in Nadi and Pacific Harbour, offers a thrilling zipline experience for older adventure-lovers.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY, TOURISM FIJI

Luxurious, family-friendly resorts, beautiful beaches, friendly locals, plus a wide range of activities mean children of all ages will be kept happy on a trip to this muchloved Pacific destination. If you’re staying at one of Fiji’s many resorts, you’ll find plenty to do within a stone’s throw of your bure. Sparkling pools, kids’ clubs and fun, free activities such as crab racing and frog hunts are all on offer. Cultural activities are also a big hit with the littlies – at the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa on Viti Levu, children are invited to participate in the nightly fire-lighting ceremony and tribal drumming shows. At Viti Levu’s Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort and on secluded Castaway Island, kids can plant coral or place “fish houses” in the ocean as part of the local OZONE conservation initiative.

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World-class snorkelling

TOP TO BOTTOM: Snorkelling off Vanua Levu, surfing Cloudbreak, soft corals. INSET: a Hawksbill Turtle.

Some of the world’s best waves are also found in Fiji

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

#3 AQUA WORLD SURF, SNORKEL, SWIM AND DIVE, LEAVING NO SHORE UNEXPLORED IN THIS WATER-LOVER’S UTOPIA WORDS SHERIDEN RHODES

WATER WORLD Described by Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of the late, famed oceanographer Jacques, as the “soft-coral capital of the world” and offering world-class surf breaks and one of the planet’s most extensive reef systems,

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Fiji is the ultimate island playground. Go snorkelling on pristine reefs such as Rainbow Reef on the incredible Somosomo Strait, or swimming with schools of soldierfish at Split Rock, just offshore of Savusavu on Vanua Levu, Fiji’s second-biggest island. The pretty, striped soldierfish will practically give you a kiss (or at the least a cheeky tickle) as you explore the large coral head they call home. Namana Reserve, named by Jean-Michel as one of the world’s top 10 dive spots, is just a boat ride from Vanua Levu. Namana is a migratory pathway for bottlenose and spinner dolphins, minke, pilot, sperm and humpback whales and the nesting site for endangered turtles.

Gardens and White Rock off Vomo Island in the Mamanuca Islands, while the pristine reef encircling Honeymoon Island off Malolo makes for memorable snorkelling. If you prefer to be on the water and not in it, set sail for Tivua Island, a dreamy coral atoll in the Mamanucas, aboard the white-sailed tall ship Ra Marama.

LET’S GO SURFING

UNDER THE SEA Pinnacles, abundant soft corals and even wrecks are found across Fiji at dive sites with whimsical names such as Chimneys and Alice in Wonderland. You’ll find Coral

Some of the world’s best waves are also found in Fiji including Cloudbreak – a perfect and formidable left hander – and Restaurants, named for its location opposite the main dining facility on Tavarua Island. There’s an excellent yearround right break suitable for beginners and more experienced surfers just an easy paddle from Hideaway Resort on the main island of Vitu Levu, too. Day trips to Cloudbreak, Restaurants, Wilkes Passage, Desperations, Mini Cloudbreak, Namotu Left and Swimming Pools surf breaks are offered from Plantation and Castaway islands. Getting wet has never been so much fun.

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we are given a glimpse of something ancient and sacred

Off the beaten track

#4 GOING OFF ROAD TAKE A RIDE INTO THE INTERIOR OF VITI LEVU AND SHINE A LIGHT ON ANCIENT FIJIAN CULTURE WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

THE OTHER SIDE In the postcards, Fiji is all white sand and five-star resorts. But venture into Viti Levu’s lush interior with Off-Road Cave Safari and you’ll discover people who still rely on horses for transportation, survive on what they grow and live by ancient traditions. The safari takes guests through Sigatoka Valley, the ‘salad bowl’ of Fiji, to sacred caves that once sheltered long-lost tribes. With Ace at the wheel of the jeep and Tia as our guide, we plunge into farm

plots and forest. Tia has asked that we return any greetings from locals, and we don’t have to wait long to obey. Within minutes “Bula!” (Fijian for hello), bursts out of a passing field. We strain to see the culprit and return the call. At the noise of the only car on the road, heads pop out of crops and children sprint to the roadside to shout greetings. We pass people on horseback and slow-moving water buffalo ploughing fields. In a tiny village, two waving toddlers block the road until Tia climbs out and moves them to safety.

GIVING THANKS

Cave Safari jeeps waiting to set off. TOP: Exploring Naihehe Caves. INSET: Local villagers.

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To visit Naihehe Caves, we must first seek the permission of the bete (priest) and his family. Tia has brought an offering, or sevusevu, of kava roots, which the priest grinds into the potent brew. Sitting cross-legged on the floor, the bete intones blessings to ancestral gods and we each give thanks and sip from the muddy, tonguenumbing concoction. Permission granted, we file down a narrow rainforest path to the caves. To enter, it’s

necessary to stoop and wade through knee-deep water, our faces inches from the surface. The caves are closely protected, so there are no walkways or lights – only the weak glow of our headlamps.

DARK TIMES

Deep in an echoing cavern, Tia shows us the “cannibal’s cauldron”, a natural stove used in some of Fiji’s last acts of cannibalism. The caves were the refuge of the Sautabu tribe, who made a final stand here against warring tribes led by overzealous missionaries more than a century ago. After 79 days in the dark, they were forced out and converted, losing their connection to ancient gods and tribal practices. On Tia’s count of three, we all click off our headlamps. Standing there, in absolute darkness, we are given a glimpse of something ancient and sacred, a million miles away from resort pools and private islands, and somehow all the more important for it.

PHOTOGRAPHY OFF-ROAD CAVE SAFARI

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#5 FLY AND FLOP

ACE

Relax by the pool

IF YOUR IDEA OF PARADISE IS LONG DAYS BY THE POOL AND COCKTAILS WITH LITTLE UMBRELLAS, VITI LEVU HAS YOU SORTED WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

HOLIDAYS MADE EASY

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CLOCKWISE: DoubleTree Resort on Sonaisali island, Vulani Poolside at DoubleTree, sunset dining at Tavu Bar and Grill.

80km of coast around Sigatoka are a Shangri-La, Outrigger, InterContinental, Warwick Fiji and more. All of them dedicated to delivering a stress-free, fullservice vacation.

AN ISLAND ON AN ISLAND For the resort experience without the neighbours,

DoubleTree Resort by Hilton Hotel sits between Denarau and the Coral Coast, a 25-minute drive from Nadi. The resort is on private Sonaisali Island, minutes off the mainland on the free 24-hour ferry. Once on the island, just relax. The lagoon-style pool (with swim-up bar) is fringed with towering palms, and friendly staff will deliver drinks and food to your sun lounge. The beach-facing suites adopt the high, thatched ceilings of Fijian bures, with deep balconies facing the Pacific. After watching sunset from a hammock between palms, dine on the sand at Tavu Bar and Grill. Try the chilli crab, a dish that borrows from the Indian flavours brought in by cane workers during colonial times.

EXPLORE OR UNWIND If you need an activity, take a leisurely horseback ride through mangroves (don’t forget insect repellent) beside an empty dark-sand beach. Up the romance with a sunset ride. For daytime shenanigans there are also kayaks, jet-skis or windsurfers, and in-house tour operators to arrange inland and offshore trips. But if the call of a poolside lounge proves too strong, who’s to argue? Krysia Bonkowski was a guest of DoubleTree Resort by Hilton Hotel Fiji. doubletree3.hilton.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Fiji from Sydney. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY DOUBLETREE RESORT BY HILTON FIJI

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All that is required of you is to just turn up. In-house bars and restaurants will never let you go hungry or thirsty on Viti Levu. Nannies are on hand for the kids, spas for pamper sessions and activities should you get bored – with no judgement if you choose to spend your days by the pool instead. For a classic fly and flop experience, look no further. Many tourists gravitate to Denarau Island, a gated community outside of Nadi. It houses resorts by Sheraton, Westin, Radisson BLU, Sofitel, Hilton and Wyndham, an 18hole golf course, restaurants, boutiques and Port Denarau, the launch pad for many offisland adventures. Leisure is Denarau Island’s raison d’être and the island promises nothing more complicated than sun, swimming and spa days. In south-west Viti Levu, the Coral Coast is home to another enclave of luxury. Spread along

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Soak it up YOU’LL BE ON THE ROAD TO RELAXATION WITH A DIP IN A NATURAL HOT SPRINGS WORDS BEN GROUNDWATER

PHOTO HEPBURN SPRINGS BATHOUSE AND SPA

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THE EFFECT IS almost instant. One minute you’re stressed, or tired, or aching from a long day of working muscles that just aren’t used to being worked and then, the next, sweet relief. Everything is right with

the world. This is the hot springs experience, the feeling of relaxing in a pool of mineral-rich, bathwarm water, of soaking away your aches and pains in a natural environment. Hot springs have long been popular in Japan,

where onsen culture is a huge part of traditional life, but the obsession with warm, natural water has been slowly spreading across the globe. There are now hot spring resorts and dedicated thermal bathing pools in Australia,

New Zealand, South-East Asia and even the Pacific Islands. All of these facilities offer travellers the chance to relax and enjoy the benefits of natural springs, often with spectacular views as an added bonus.

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Japan

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To visit a Japanese onsen is to immerse yourself not just in hot water, but in a centuries-old art form that’s as much ritual as it is relaxation. There is a whole series of customs that have to be observed at a Japanese bathhouse, and each makes the experience memorable. Perhaps the most important of these is the dress code: that is, no dress. Japanese hot springs are clothing-free. The first thing bathers do is strip off all of their clothes in a changing room and then head into the shower area, where small plastic stools are provided to sit on while you thoroughly wash. Once that process is complete you’re free to hit the pool – though take a small towel, first to cover your modesty and, upon entering the water, to cover your head. It gets cold outside. Then soak for as long as you like. There’s perhaps no better place to experience the onsen ritual than Hakuba, a ski town a few hours south-west of Tokyo. Hakuba has several rotenburo, or open-air hot springs, that skiers and snowboarders flock to after a long day on the slopes. The atmosphere is relaxed at these places, even raucous at times. Kurashita no-yu is a beautiful rotenburo

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within stumbling distance of the Happo-one ski area, with outdoor baths fed by high-quality natural spring water. That water is all-important: every hot spring in Japan contains a different balance of minerals, and spa towns such as Kusatsu and Matsuyama are reknowned for theirs.

Australia There’s solid wisdom in the idea that if you can’t beat them, you join them. That’s surely why some of Australia’s hot-spring spas are not shy about taking their inspiration from Japan. When a system has been perfected over hundreds of years, there’s no need to change it. Those craving the onsen experience in Australia should travel to the Victorian town of Montrose, at the base of the Dandenong Ranges near Melbourne. It’s here you’ll find the Japanese Mountain Retreat, a hot spring and hotel that offers both private indoor

There are a whole series of customs that have to be observed at a Japanese bathhouse

PHOTOGRAPHY WAIKITE VALLEY THERMAL POOLS, HEPBURN SPRINGS BATHOUSE & SPA, KUSATSU ONSEN, ONSEN HOT POOLS, JAPANESE MOUNTAIN RETREAT

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as they come: a hot spring in Elsey National Park, near Katherine, where everyone is free to take a dip.

New Zealand

Straight from the source

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Victoria’s Japanese Mountain Retreat, Onsen Hot Pools in Queenstown, Hepburn Springs Bathouse and Spa, Waikite Hot Pools in New Zealand, Japan’s Kusatsu Onsen.

or outdoor bathing. The mineral-rich water is pumped from a natural spring 80 metres below ground, and is heated to between 37 and 40 degrees. While enjoying that water indoors is great, it’s outdoor bathing that provides the true onsen experience: out in nature, surrounded by a Japanese garden, with clothing optional. It’s tradition, after all. Australia’s spa options aren’t all replicas of Japan, however. Hepburn Springs Bathhouse and Spa, in country Victoria, is a luxurious, modern facility with mineral pools heated to 35 degrees. In the Northern Territory, meanwhile, Mataranka Thermal Pool is as natural

First thing you notice? The view. At Onsen Hot Pools in Queenstown, New Zealand’s adventure hub, you almost miss the large wooden tub filled with warm water right in front of you because of the backdrop. It’s a stunning vista of everything that makes Queenstown great: a river winding through the steep mountains and a big blue sky that turns to starcrossed black as you soak your pains away. See, Queenstown is all about action. During the winter it’s a snow bunny’s heaven, and at Onsen Hot Pools you can spot the skiers arriving from mid-afternoon, hoping to ease any snow-related cares with a few hours in a hot tub. In the warmer months Queenstown is popular with mountainbikers, hikers and cyclists – and there’s nothing better after a day of exercise than a bath. The tubs at Onsen Hot Pools are made of local timber, filled with natural spring water, and each is set in a private room overlooking Queenstown’s spectacular scenery. Bathers can close a big roller door to keep the heat in – but where’s the fun in that?

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New Zealand, of course, has plenty of other natural springs, particularly in the North Island’s geothermal hotspots. In Rotorua there’s the Polynesian Spa, a luxury natural spring, while Waikite Valley Thermal Pools offers bathing in mineralrich, untreated water that pours straight out of the Te Manaroa spring.

Pacific Islands

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water seeps into the pool, cooling temperatures slightly; perfect for those who don’t like it too hot. Elsewhere in the Pacific, Fiji is home to several natural hot springs. In the town of Savusavu, on the island of Vanua Levu, the local medical centre offers hot, natural baths filled from the local spring. At Sabeto Valley, on Viti Levu, visitors can immerse themselves in mineralrich and skin-friendly mud pools free of charge.

South-East Asia There are two types of hot-spring experiences in this world: the stripped back, natural kind, and the Lost World Hot Springs and Spa kind. This Malaysian resort and theme park is basically a hot-spring Disneyland, a family-friendly facility where you could spend days and still not see all that’s on offer. The hardest part of the Lost World experience is

figuring out where you’re going to bathe. It might be the infinity pool, an area big enough for 300 people. Or perhaps it will be the private “crystal pool”, with its tiles that reflect the natural light, or the “top of the world” jacuzzi, or the “steam cave”, or even the familyfriendly Saphira’s Lair, a series of pools lit with an almost fluorescent glow. Each site is filled with all-natural, mineral-rich water that’s pumped into Lost World’s pools from a local spring. A word of warning, however: this is not Japan. At Lost World you’ll be expected to wear bathing suits – trunks for men, one-piece swimsuits for women.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Balinese hot spring Toya Devasya, Ahalanui Park on Hawaii’s Big Island, Polynesian Spa Rotorua.

Even more For those travelling elsewhere on the Jetstar network, Toya Devasya is a Balinese resort about two hours from Denpasar that features four hot springs. In Taiwan, meanwhile, Radium Kagaya International Hotel, near Taipei, makes the most of the Beitou hot springs nearby, with both private and shared pools.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY , POLYNESIAN SPA ROTORUA, TOYA DEVASYA BALI

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What could be better, you might think, than a postcard-perfect beach lapped by clear waters, with palm trees swaying in the salty breeze and jungle-covered mountains rising above? Well, how about a natural hot spring right in the middle? That’s Ahalanui Park, on Hawaii’s Big Island. On one side of this large, natural pool, views of the Pacific Ocean. On all other sides it’s palm trees and vegetation. Not a bad vista for a long afternoon of soaking in water warmed to about 30 degrees by the island’s famous geothermal activity. Ahalanui is hugely popular with tourists staying in the nearby town of Hilo, but it’s also a local favourite, particularly as entry is free. The pool is natural, however there are ladders to get in and out, and the walls and floors have been contoured with concrete. The water temperature varies throughout the day – as the tide comes in at the beach nearby, oceanic

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SCHOOL HOLIDAYS

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FAMILY TIME PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND

Scrap the screens and bring the family together with some old-fashioned fun

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WORDS EMILY WILSON

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Cast a line

RECONNECT WITH NATURE

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Experience everything the outdoors has on offer – pack the tent, hook up the caravan or trailer and hit the road. The Grampians in Victoria’s west is a national park area with camping grounds and outdoor fun for kids of all ages. Or head to New South Wales’ Blue Mountains for great walks, caves and views. Just off the coast of Brisbane, North Stradbroke Island offers a range of beach and bush camping, with some dog-friendly sites so you needn’t leave any family member behind.

REEL IT IN Fishing with young children is a fun way to spend an afternoon. In Auckland, Orakei Wharf and Birkenhead Wharf offer great family fishing. BYO rods, reels and buckets. We love fishing for yabbies on the Murray River in South Australia, just don’t forget the nets!

HIT THE TRAILS Bushwalking is healthy, connects with nature and doesn’t break the bank. Seek out Fairylands Track, which follows the Lane Cove River, approximately 30 minutes from the Sydney CBD. It’s about 1km long and, at a leisurely pace, takes around an hour for a return journey. Pack a picnic and spend some time watching the river go by. In Western Australia’s Northcliffe, the Understory Art and Nature Trail is another great kid-friendly track. Artists’ sculptures and artwork are incorporated into the landscape, so take your time exploring. wildwalks.com trailswa.com.au

OLD-FASHIONED FUN ROLL UP, ROLL UP Circus Oz will tour Melbourne with its new show Model Citizens this winter. Witness everyday objects in a new light and be taken on a journey by the live band and circus performers.

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Pack a picnic and spend some time watching the river go by

A campsite in the Grampians. ABOVE: Fishing in the Murray. LEFT: Model Citizens by Circus Oz.

The Royal Show will move through the Northern Territory this month, hitting both Darwin and Katherine. With a sideshow alley, live performances, demonstrations, yummy treats and animals on show, there’s something for the whole family. circusoz.com darwinshow.com.au katherineshow.org.au

PHOTOGRAPHY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMISSION, ROB BLACKBURN, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

SLEEP UNDER THE STARS

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TOP TO BOTTOM: Art by Ryan Meinerding for Marvel’s The Avengers, Boat Harbour Beach, country charms in Hahndorf, SA.

A DAY AT THE THEATRE Performance is a great way to spark young imaginations. Be enchanted by Broadway musical Aladdin, showing at Melbourne’s Her Majesty’s Theatre, or catch Frozen on Ice on tour. Check local ticket sellers for dates. For budding thespians, Kids Upfront Drama Academy offers holiday theatre camps in Melbourne and Sydney, while The Auckland Performing Arts Centre is holding workshops in professional theatre skills such as auditions.

MUSEUM MADNESS

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At the Marvel Comics exhibition at Queensland Art Gallery | Gallery of Modern Art in Brisbane, kids can view original comics, props and costumes, and get a glimpse behind the scenes of a Marvel movie. History comes to life at Sydney Living Museums, from the interactive Sand in the City at Museum of Sydney, to the LEGO exhibit at Rouse Hill House & Farm. qagoma.qld.gov.au sydneylivingmuseums.com.au

SHACKING UP A beach shack is the perfect escape from the winter blues. Tasmania’s Boat Harbour Beach, on the north west, is a local secret two hours’ drive from Launceston. The crescent-shaped beach is lined with beach homes to suit every budget, and is a great base to enjoy Tasmania’s crisp, clear winters. Bring out the deck of cards or a favourite board game for a night in after a day enjoying the sun and sand. For a country escape just a ferry ride from Auckland (with family-friendly vineyards), book a beach house on Waiheke Island. Or maybe head north for the winter and rent a home in Tropical North Queensland, where warmer weather allows for water activities year round.

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A GOOD, OLD PUNT The Murray River comes alive in winter, so get out there and enjoy it. Grab another family or two and rent a houseboat for a laidback holiday. Most companies offer a houseboat driving lesson on arrival and provide all the basics. Punt your way down the river, set up camp by the water and enjoy an evening around the campfire, roasting marshmallows and sharing ghost stories. Winter is the off-peak season, so you can expect lower prices.

Shack life

DRIVE AWAY Take a classic road trip to a new destination these school holidays. There are plenty of great options easily accessible from capital cities. Ballarat, just a 1.5-hour drive from Melbourne, hosts a winter festival every July with tonnes of kid-friendly activities. Hahndorf and Stirling are both popular day trips from Adelaide, complete with country charm. Berry, a two-hour drive from Sydney on the NSW south coast, is a rural idyll. Head there on a market day (most weekends) to find handmade goodies.

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ACTIVE ADVENTURERS STRAP IN Theme parks are the quintessential holiday activity. Rides, shows and fun for all – what’s not to love? Going with the biggest park ensures there’s something for everyone. Dreamworld on the Gold Coast is Australia’s largest theme park, and is full of thrills and exciting shows, plus there’s the chance to get up close with big cats on Tiger Island. In Auckland, try out Kidz Kingdom at Rainbow’s End, where an entire section is devoted to little ones with rides, go karts, play centres and more. dreamworld.com.au rainbowsend.co.nz

WORK IT OUT Get the kids moving these holidays. Check out clubs across Australia and NZ to view football and rugby games near you, or set up a game at your local park with a few families. Let them climb, jump and play ’till they drop on the interconnected trampolines, climbing walls or the laser tag of Sky Zones in Sydney, Brisbane and Canberra. skyzone.com.au

LACE UP THE SKATES

Winter festivals make it easy to enjoy the season’s simple pleasures: Melbourne has the Federation Square River Rink (until 23 July) and the four-metre high, 36-metre long Variety Ice Slide outside Eureka Skydeck on Southbank (until 16 July). Winter Wonderland pops up in Adelaide’s Glenelg (until 27 July), NSW’s Hunter Valley Gardens hosts Snow Time (until mid-July) and the Winter Festival heads to Brisbane, Sydney and Fremantle with markets, snowplay areas and activities galore.

ALL-AGES SLEEPS

Camp with comfort at Adelaide Shores Caravan Park, complete with playgrounds, go karts and mini golf, or at one of many BIG4 parks nationally. The fun on the Gold Coast doesn’t need to end after the theme parks close – family-focused Paradise Resort in the heart of Surfers Paradise has a kids’ club, waterpark and an ice-rink. For a Melbourne city break to catch an AFL game with the kids, book a family-sized apartment at the Quality Hotel Batman’s Hill on Collins Street. paradiseresort.com.au choicehotels.com.au

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1. MINI BOARD GAMES Portable games like these mini sets will let you take the game from the car to the plane to the coffee table, and they don’t even require a battery or wi-fi. Assorted Mini Board Games, RRP $2 each. kmart.com.au 2. HARRY POTTER TURNS 20 Reacquaint your kids with J.K Rowling’s wizard and his magic world, which turns 20 this year. Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone – Slytherin Edition, Bloomsbury, RRP $16.99. harrypotter.bloomsbury. com/au 3. SPLASH UNO It’s the Uno you know, just perfected for outdoor use. The cards come on a

clip and are made from a durable plastic, so there are no worries about them getting lost or ruined. UNO Splash Card Game, RRP $9.99. shop.mattel.com 4. KIDS ON WHEELS Little legs can get tired so give them a rest with the clever Bagrider. With the twist of a dial, this twowheeled suitcase can be transformed into a comfy, secure travelling seat for toddlers. Mountain Buggy Bagrider, RRP $149. mountainbuggy.com/au 5. WORD SALAD Keep minds ticking over in between school terms and sneak in some vocabulary training while you’re at it with engaging word games. Bananagrams, RRP $25. kmart.com.au

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ELEMENTS OF BYRON With absolute beachfront access to Byron Bay’s Belongil Beach, Elements of Byron offers a designer retreat in one of Australia’s most beauitful and beloved locations. Book into the spa, enjoy yoga on the beach or dine on fine local cuisine. elementsofbyron.com.au

Don’t forget

Byron Bay Yoga One of Australia’s longest running yoga schools, Byron Yoga Centre offers classes, retreats and teacher training in Purna Yoga for yoga enthusiasts of all levels. byronyoga.com

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Providence Sailing Jump aboard the Providence V, a classic 62-foot gaff-rigged schooner offering day and sunset sails in Queensland’s stunning Whitsundays. providencesailing.com.au

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Sail away

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RELAX AT HANMER SPRINGS An easy 45-minute drive north from Christchurch, Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa has a range of thermal, sulphur, aquatherapy and aquaplay pools, making it the perfect place to unwind and relax year-round. hanmersprings.co.nz

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Hit the slopes

The southern ski season is underway. Grab your friends or family, pack the skis and head to your nearest slopes such as Thredbo in the Snowy Mountains.

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Victorian Young Achiever Awards

etstar is a proud supporter of the Victorian Young Achiever Awards, which acknowledges, encourages and promotes the positive achievements of all young people. This year, Laura Pintur was announced the winner of the Victorian Young Achiever Award and also the Community Service and Social Impact Award. Laura co-founded ‘What’s Normal?’, a program dedicated to engaging and educating young people about issues relating to pornography and the impact it has on the broader community,

particularly as a driver for domestic violence. Previously Laura was involved in a campaign to remove provocative magazines from supermarket shelves. Jetstar’s Group Head of Customer Strategy, Cath Stone, was on the judging panel for the awards: “The level of determination and persistence Laura has for driving a positive cultural change in Australia is incredible, particularly from such a young person,” she said. Along with the prestigious Victorian Young Achievers Award, Laura also took home a $2,000 travel voucher

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LAURA

PINTUR

The level of determination and persistence Laura has for driving a positive cultural change in Australia is incredible, particularly from such a young person thanks to Jetstar, to help her continue to spread her message around Australia.

THOUSANDS OF Australian and New Zealand customers have signed up for Club Jetstar and are already reaping the rewards. Jetstar’s revitalised membership program offers exclusive member airfares and travel benefits as well as early access to major sale campaigns. Club Jetstar members can also pass on benefits for up to five people per booking (the member and four guests), so having multiple trips with different people each year is more attainable. Club Jetstar members will pay an initial $49 joining fee, plus an annual membership fee of $49.99, which is waived in the first year so the customer only pays $49 total to join now.

PHOTOGRAPHY JOANNE MANARITI PHOTOGRAPHY

Winners are grinners

14/06/2017 9:58 AM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

My mum’s a star!

It is always special when a family is reunited and this was certainly the case when 86-year-old Victorian Betty Savage was surprised by her four children on Mother’s Day. Two of Betty’s four children, Chris and Kate, have lived out of Melbourne for their entire adult life. Chris recently moved to Adelaide after living in Los Angeles and Kate has been living in Hobart since 1990. Jetstar wanted to help Betty’s children give her the best Mother’s Day imaginable by flying Chris and Kate to Melbourne so the whole family could spend Mother’s Day together for the first time in more than 30 years. To witness the heart-warming reunion visit the Jetstar Australia Facebook page.

A very special cake

To celebrate his fourth birthday, Roland, one of Jetstar’s youngest fans, had one very special request – an airplane birthday cake of course! When we heard about Roland’s birthday wish, we wanted to do everything we could to help make his party full of Jetstar fun. Roland celebrated his birthday in true Jetstar style with a group of his closest friends and family. To see more pictures of Roland’s birthday or to share your own aviation-themed birthday cakes, be sure to visit the Jetstar Australia Facebook page.

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Lucid

Laneways Melbourne’s laneways are not just overflowing with cool bars and colourful cafés. Cofounders of Laneway Learning, Mark Gregory and Lucie Bradley have been satisfying a different kind of thirst – quenching quizzical minds, eager to engage in such diverse disciplines as crochet to dumplings and feminism, in a fun, informal setting. Strictly speaking, the Laneway name is a bit narrow (excuse the pun), when you consider that since 2012 they’ve held more than 2500 classes in 30-plus diverse venues, from galleries to antique stores, bars, cafés and bookstores in almost every major city in

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Australia, plus Auckland and Singapore. It’s all been made possible through the efforts of hundreds of community teachers sharing their passion and knowledge with more than 50,000 attendees – facilitating accessible education and breaking down social barriers through the joy of learning. Kooks is proud to support Laneway Learning and the thirst for knowledge. To join a class or find out more, go to lanewaylearning.com

14/06/2017 10:00 AM

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13/06/2017 10:53 AM

Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

INDONESIA I STARKIDS

Fresh vegetables for this growing toddler StarKids is helping families create vegetable gardens bursting with life WORDS JO SUTTON

Andi, two, pictured with his mum Esi, now has a regular source of fresh vegetables to eat.

PHOTO WORLD VISION

o one needs to convince two-year-old Andi to eat his vegetables. Thanks to Jetstar customers’ donations to StarKids, Andi’s mum Esi now has a thriving vegetable garden and the growing toddler gets his pick of the freshest produce. In a part of Indonesia where many children are affected by malnutrition, Esi’s garden is changing her family’s future by ensuring her toddler can grow up healthy and strong. But Esi’s garden hasn’t always looked like this. Before receiving

training from World Vision, supported by StarKids, she says her yard was “filled with rocks and it looked like an abandoned garden.” The family rarely ate vegetables because of the cost of purchasing them. After receiving training in digging and irrigation techniques, as well as how to make fertilisers and pesticides, Esi was set for success. “Now we are able to enjoy pak choy from our own garden,” Esi says of her first crop. “I am also happy because I can make my own fertiliser. I am excited because all of the fertiliser materials are available around me so I

You can help! MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need. Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand. These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia. By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future. A proportion of in-flight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia. Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information. Your small change today could change a life tomorrow! JETSTAR.COM

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

This year

$1,319,423 Total

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$8,770,736

In the future, Esi plans to grow other vegetables in her garden, such as spinach. She’s also active in encouraging others in her community to develop nutritional gardens to support their family’s needs. As chair of the local community health centre, and now a successful gardener, Esi knows just how much of a difference a regular source of vegetables can make – especially for growing children!

don’t need to buy [them]. “I hope that with this nutritional garden, my son’s nutritional needs can be met.” *Funds raised in financial year to date since July 2016. Total raised since 2007.

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13/06/2017 10:53 AM

Essentials I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

TURBULENCE

We’ve all felt those little bumps during a flight – but what exactly is turbulence, and what causes it?

TYPES OF TURBULENCE THERMAL

Thermal turbulence occurs when warm air moves through cooler air. Usually it’s the interaction between warm air rising from the ground mixing with cooler air.

GET

KNOW

Turbulence is the catch-all term used to describe air disturbances that a plane can encounter during a flight. It might be because a plane is flying into a weather front, over a mountainous area or coming across a change in the wind. Turbulence is normal. The wind changes, just as waves do in the ocean. Pilots will manoeuvre the plane to find the smoothest route possible for passenger comfort.

MECHANICAL

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Mechanical turbulence occurs when a man-made or large, natural structure causes a shift in airflow. Rather than moving across the ground horizontally, the wind is forced to move up, around, or over the structure, creating up and downdrafts.

DID you KNOW? Aircraft sometimes fly in jet streams – a horizontal flow of air that can be thousands of miles long, but only a few miles wide and deep. Flying in a jetstream can help a pilot take advantage of a tail wind, saving time and fuel. Conversely, avoiding a jetstream may minimise headwinds, depending on the direction of flight.

WIND SHEAR

Wind shear occurs with variations in the wind’s velocity or direction in one layer of air when compared to the adjacent layer, often occurring during weather fronts. This variation can change a plane’s lift, causing it to move above or below its flight path.

CLEAR AIR

Clear-air turbulence is undetectable by sight and radar, so pilots don’t always know it’s there. However, pilots constantly report unexpected bumps back to air control. Pilots flying the same route after can alter altitude or route based on those reports.

FUN FACT:

Safety first Turbulence is nearly always just going to be a small bump in your plane flight. However it is always best to keep your seatbelt fastened while seated, just in case the plane comes across a patch of unexpected turbulence.

PIREP ‘Pilot Reports’ of weather conditions encountered by a pilot in the air.

“Modern aircraft are incredibly strong and designed to withstand extreme levels of turbulence, which is graded as either light, moderate or severe. The latter is very rare and many airline pilots may go through their entire career without ever encountering severe turbulence.” NICHOLAS COPLAND

Airbus Fleet Technical Pilot, Jetstar Airways

MOUNTAIN

WAVES

The turbulence experienced around mountains is called mountain waves. It’s called this because of its similarity to ocean waves crashing on the shore; the air moves up and over one side of the mountain and comes down like waves on the other.

* Facts sourced from casa.gov.au, faa.gov

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang Shantou Guangzhou

Taipei

Hanoi Hong Kong Haikou Yangon Sanya Da Nang Siem Reap Manila Bangkok Phnom Penh

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Penang Medan 130

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns Townsville

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Phu Quoc

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Oita Kumamoto

Nha Trang Da Lat

Kagoshima

Ho Chi Minh City

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

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Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon)

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Operated by Jetstar Airways

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Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

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Explore Australian I INTERVIEW & New Zealand airports

ARRIVING AT OUR DESTINATIONS How to get from the airport to town Adelaide 9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour. Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Auckland 22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12. Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre. Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

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6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

Ballina/Byron Blanchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby. From $3.80 adult. TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk. TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus.

Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers. Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle. Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle. Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $59 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $49 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor. Con-x-ion Bus.

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Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential). Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle. Adult $21, child $13; return: adult $41, child $21. Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25 TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon) TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22,

child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: Adult $32, child $26, return: $64. TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston. Present your Jetstar boarding pass for a discount on any of these services.

Napier/Hawkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers. To Hastings, NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

14/06/2017 10:01 AM

Newcastle 27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for additional passengers. Enquire at airport information desk. Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred). From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles. Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect. Tickets $15; return: $30. Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers. Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle

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bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32 Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80. TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22. TransLink Bus 622. Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle. Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins. Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit. Adult $18, child $13. Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18. Bookings not required.

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14/06/2017 10:01 AM

Some things just werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t meant to fly Waddle along to see us

www.penguins.org.au

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Kids puzzles

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

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134-139_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 135

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Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another name for a limitedover cricket match? (3,3,7) 7 What type of traditional Chinese medicine doctor uses needles? (13) 9 Which gulf do Adelaide, Port Vincent and Edithburgh lie on? (4,2,7) 12 In the Hanna-Barbera cartoon, Jerry is a mouse and â&#x20AC;Ś is a cat. (3) 13 In SeaChange (1998â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2000), David Wenham played â&#x20AC;Ś Dan. (5) 15 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another name for an alternative fact? (3) 16 Village People released the disco hit â&#x20AC;&#x153;â&#x20AC;Ś Manâ&#x20AC;? in 1978. (5) 17 Which US President visited China in 1972? (5) 18 A bright red colour thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slightly orange. (7) 19 A knitting abbreviation used in patterns for slipping a stitch. (2) 21 What Indian flatbread is traditionally made with stoneground wholemeal flour? (4) 22 What part of the brain is also known as the mesencephalon? (8) 23 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the capital of Norway? (4)

1 Which citrus fruit blossom is neroli oil made from? (6,7) 2 What triangle has equal sides and angles? (11) 3 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the popular abbreviation of the Australian National University? (3) 4 What dinosaurs had teeth like an iguana? (10) 5 US actor Kevin â&#x20AC;Ś starred in A Fish Called Wanda, The Big Chill and In and Out. (5) 6 â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cause Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m â&#x20AC;Ś Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m dynamite.â&#x20AC;? AC/DC (1976) (3) 8 What is a general term for civets, leopard cats and spotted skunks? (5,4) 10 What is the term for the head wine steward at a restaurant? (9) 11 Who directed Reservoir Dogs and Pulp Fiction? (9) 14 What are quick interviews with a number of people? (3,4) 20 What is the abbreviation for lineal? (3)

137

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

134-139_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 137

EASY

13/06/2017 12:08 PM

Quiz

QUICK QUIZ Test your knowledge with our special Whitsundays quiz

138

8. Which former pro golfer designed the challenging Hamilton Island Golf Club? 9. How much of the Whitsundays region is protected national park? A) 10 per cent B) 45 per cent C) 70 per cent 10. Renting a yacht without a crew, a popular Whitsundays activity, is known as a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; charter? 11. What famous humpback whale was spotted in the Whitsundays last whale season? 12. In what decade did Hayman Island first become a private resort? 13. The Whitsundays are found on what sea? 14. What is Hamilton Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular form of transport? A) Kayak B) Golf buggy C) Horse

1. Of the 74 Whitsunday Islands, how many are deserted? 2. One of the Whitsundayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous sights is a small coral reef shaped like what? 3. Who were the earliest inhabitants of the Whitsundays region? 4. Approximately how many fish species live on the Great Barrier Reef? A) 150 B) 1500 C) 15,000 5. What 1989 movie, starring Sam Neill and Nicole Kidman, was filmed in the Whitsundays? 6. A small population of what endangered marsupial has been introduced on Hayman Island? 7. The legendary white sands of Whitehaven Beach are composed of 98 per cent what?

SOLUTIONS

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_ 66 2_A heart 3_ The Ngaro people 4_ B) 1500 5_ Dead Calm 6_ Proserpine rock-wallaby 7_ Silica 8_ Peter Thomson 9_ C) 70 per cent 10_ Bareboat 11_ Migaloo the white humpback 12_ The 1950s (in 1950) 13_ The Coral Sea 14_ B) Golf buggy 134-139_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 138

13/06/2017 12:08 PM

134-139_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 139

13/06/2017 12:08 PM

FACE THE DARKNESS

540m

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MH10

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8/06/2017 4:44 PM 13/06/2017 12:09 PM

Movies, TV, music and more I JULY 2017 I Entertainment

Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE! Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available

141

ONLY

$10

AUD Blockbuster movies TV comedy and drama Kids’ favourites Hit music Games

PRE-PURCHASE AND SAVE Purchase inflight entertainment when you book your flight and save 10 per cent!

4:44 PM

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13/06/2017 1:16 PM

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

| 129 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Bill Condon CAST: Emma Watson, Dan Stevens

| 133 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Peter Berg CAST: Mark Wahlberg, J.K. Simmons

聡明な娘ベルは、野獣の城に閉じ込められてしまった。

Silence

xXx: Return of Xander Cage

沈黙 -サイレンス-

| 161 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Martin Scorsese CAST: Andrew Garfield, Adam Driver, Liam Neeson

At a time when Christianity was outlawed in Japan, two missionaries on a rescue mission face the ultimate test of faith. 行方不明の恩師を探すため日本に向かった2人のキリスト教宣教師の物語。

トリプルX：再起動

| 107 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: D.J. Caruso CAST: Vin Diesel, Samuel L. Jackson

Xander Cage comes out of a self-imposed exile. エクストリーム・スポーツの元スーパースターで、現在は米政府のスパイとして活躍するザンダー・ケイジが、最恐兵器「パンドラの箱」の奪還に挑む。

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Police Sergeant Tommy Saunders joins brave survivors, first responders and investigators in a race against time. 2013年に起きたボストンマラソン爆破事件の、トミー・ソーンダース刑事の姿を描く。

A live-action remake of the timeless classic, Beauty and the Beast takes us back to the story of Belle, an intelligent, independent woman who yearns for more than her provincial village life. When her father is captured by the castle-lurking Beast, she must put aside her hopes and fears to save him, and later, to see past the Beast’s monstrous exterior to his noble heart. Starring Emma Watson as Belle and a fabulous supporting cast, Beauty and the Beast is a visually and musically stunning masterpiece.

Logan

John Wick: Chapter 2 ジョン・ウィック：チャプ

ター2

| 122 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Chad Stahelski CAST: Keanu Reeves, Ian McShane

Legendary hitman John Wick is forced back out of retirement again. 引退した伝説の殺し屋ジョン・ウィックが再び表舞台に引きずり出され、ローマで戦いに挑む。

Hidden Figures

EMO the Musical エモ：ザ・ミュージカル

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Neil Triffett Drummond CAST: Benson Jack Anthony, Jordan Hare

As he tries to fit in at his new school, brooding emo musician Ethan secretly falls in love with naive but cute Christian girl Trinity. 新しい学校に慣れようと、イーサンは新たな旅に出る。

パトリオット・デイ

142

Patriots Day

美女と野獣

Beauty and the Beast

Get Out

LOGAN／ローガン

ヒドン・フィギュアズ

ゲット・アウト

| 137 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: James Mangold CAST: Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart

| 127 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Theodore Melfi CAST: Taraji P. Henson, Octavia Spencer

| 104 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jordan Peele CAST: Daniel Kaluuya, Allison Williams

In the near future, a weary Logan cares for an ailing Professor X in a hide-out. But Logan’s attempts to hide from the world are upended.

An elite team of black female mathematicians at NASA help America win the space race against the USSR.

ローガンはメキシコ国境の隠れ家で病に倒れたプロフェッサーXの世話をしていた。

黒人女性数学者たちで構成されるNASA精鋭チームがった軌跡を描き出す。

Chris’ new girlfriend, Rose, invites him for a weekend getaway at her parents’ home, where he makes a series of increasingly disturbing discoveries. クリスは恋人に招かれ、ニューヨークにある彼女の両親の実家を訪れた。

13/06/2017 1:17 PM

A Cure For Wellness

ア・キュア・フォー・ウェルネス

| 146 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Gore Verbinski CAST: Dane DeHaan, Jason Isaacs

An executive is sent to retrieve his CEO from a mysterious centre. 野心的な若手役員が、のどかだが、どこかめいた療養施設から、会社の最高責任者を救出するために送り出される。

Available on 787 seatback screens I MOVIES I Entertainment

The LEGO Batman Movie

Live By Night 夜に生きる

| 129 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Ben Affleck CAST: Ben Affleck, Zoe Saldana

Driven by a need to right the wrongs committed against him, an outlaw heads down a risky path that goes against his own moral code. 復讐に駆られ、危険な道を歩んでいく一人のアウトローの物語。

レゴバットマンザ・ムービー

| 104 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Chris McKay CAST: Will Arnett, Rosario Dawson

Jasper Jones

Sing

ジャスパー・ジョーンズ

SING／シング

| 110 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Rachel Perkins CAST: Hugo Weaving, Toni Collette

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Christophe Lourdelet CAST: Matthew McConaughey, Reese Witherspoon

To save the city from The Joker, Batman has to drop his lone vigilante stance.

A coming-of-age story about Charlie Bucktin, a bookish boy of 14 who is entrusted with a secret that will change his life forever.

ジョーカーの悪質な乗っ取り計画から、バットマンは街を救わなければならない。

チャーリー・バクティンは、人生を一変させるある秘密を打ち明けられた。

A koala named Buster decides to host a singing competition to attract more customers to his theatre business. コアラのバスターは劇場にもっと人を呼び込むために、のど自慢大会を開催する。

143

General

全年齢層鑑賞可能

Deepwater Horizon バーニング・オーシャン

| 107 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Peter Berg CAST: Mark Wahlberg, Kurt Russell

On the Deepwater Horizon offshore oil rig, 20 April 2010 ends with one of the worst man-made disasters in history. 2010年4月20日、アメリカ史上最大級の人災が発生した。

Zootopia

Suicide Squad スーサイド・スクワッド

ズートピア

| 123 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: David Ayer CAST: Will Smith, Margot Robbie

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Byron Howard, Rich Moore, Jared Bush CAST: Ginnifer Goodwin, Jason Bateman

A team of the world’s most dangerous Super Villains are sent on a mission to defeat an enigmatic entity.

Rookie Officer Judy Hopps discovers that being the first bunny on Zootopia’s police force of big, tough animals isn’t so easy.

米政府の情報工作員が、刑務所に収監されている最強の悪党たちを集めて特殊部隊を結成する。

LANGUAGES AVAILABLE:

142-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_JULY17.indd 143

詐欺師のキツネと新米警官のウサギは、あるを解くためにタッグを組まなければならない。

JPN: Japanese

CHS: Chinese

Master of the Shadowless Kick

Parental guidance recommended 保護者同伴推奨

Recommended for mature audiences 成人推奨

マスター・オブ・ザ・シャドウレス・キック

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: CHS & ENS DIRECTOR: Guo Jian Yong CAST: Su Hao Ran, Li Mou

Quiet, honest physician Wong Keiying is tricked into helping the ruthless new Canton governor. 一人の誠実な医師が、街を牛耳ろうとする政治家に闘いを挑む。

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

15歳未満非推奨。15歳未満は保護者または成人の同伴が必要

Restricted to 18 and over 18歳以上観覧可

Check the classiﬁcation

Check the classification 分類を確認のこと

ENG: English ENSUB: English subtitles ENCC: English closed captioning

13/06/2017 1:17 PM

Turbo

Puss in Boots

X-Men

長ぐつをはいたネコ

X-メン

| 96 mins LANGUAGE: ENS DIRECTOR: David Soren CAST: Ryan Reynolds, Paul Giamatti

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Chris Miller CAST: Antonio Banderas, Salma Hayek

| 104 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Bryan Singer CAST: Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart

Po the panda works in his family’s noodle shop when his dream of becoming a kung-fu master becomes a reality.

An underdog snail’s impossible dreams kick into overdrive when he miraculously attains the power of super-speed and decides to enter the Indy 500.

Long before he meets Shrek, the notorious fighter, lover and outlaw Puss in Boots becomes a hero.

In a world filled with hatred, a band of mutants works to save the very humans who loathe them.

太った未熟なパンダのポーは、ひょんなことから「龍の戦士」に選ばれる。

のろまなカタツムリが超スピードで走る不思議な力を身につける。

「長ぐつをはいたネコ」ことプスは、ハンプティ・ダンプティとキティ・フワフワーテと共にガチョウを盗み出す。

社会ののけ者である数人のミュータントたちが、自分たちを憎み恐れる世界を救うために立ち上がる。

The Curious Case of Benjamin Button

ファミリー・ツリー

ザ・タウン

インターステラー

| 115 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Alexander Payne CAST: George Clooney, Shailene Woodley

| 125 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Ben Affleck CAST: Ben Affleck, Rebecca Hall

| 169 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Christopher Nolan CAST: Matthew McConaughey, Anne Hathaway

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Midnight Diner 2

ターボ

| 128 mins LANGUAGE: JPN & ENS DIRECTOR: Joji Matsuoka CAST: Kaoru Kobayashi, Aoba Kawai

| 92 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Mark Osborne, John Stevenson CAST: Jack Black, Jackie Chan

小さな食堂で出会う人々の人生を描く。

カンフー・パンダ

Meshiya is a small one-man operation where Master serves up good food in an informal atmosphere, frequented by the mysterious literary editor Noriko. 144

Kung Fu Panda

続・深夜食堂

X-Men Days of Future Past X-MEN：フューチャー＆

パスト

| 132 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Bryan Singer CAST: Hugh Jackman, James McAvoy

The ultimate X-Men ensemble fights a war for the survival of the species across time. X-MENが、未来と過去の2つの時間をまたにかけ、生き残りを懸けた戦いに挑む。

ベンジャミン・バトン数奇な人生

| 151 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: David Fincher CAST: Brad Pitt, Cate Blanchett

An old man ages backwards. 年を取るごとに肉体が若返る老人。50歳になったベンジャミン・バトンは、30歳の女性と恋に落ちる。

142-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_JULY17.indd 144

The Descendants

A husband and father of two, Matt King, is forced to re-examine his past and embrace the future when his wife suffers an accident. 妻が大きな事故に遭い、娘たちとの絆を取り戻そうとする男の物語。

The Town

Doug MacRay leads a band of ruthless bank robbers and has no real attachments until, one day, everything changes. 過去に犯した銀行強盗事件に巻き込まれた支店長に、ベテランの強盗が恋をするが…。

Interstellar

With our time on Earth coming to an end, a team of explorers undertakes the most important mission in human history. 探査チームはワームホールを潜り抜け、人類の新天地を探す旅に出る。

13/06/2017 12:11 PM

201705

It’s not every day a low fare gets even lower.

Join Club Jetstar now! • Exclusive member-only fares* • Early access to our biggest sales • 20% off bags and seat selection^ • Partner offers tailored just for members

Get on board at jetstar.com

There is a Club Jetstar joining fee of AUD/NZD $49.00 and an annual membership of AUD/NZD $49.99, waived for the first year. *Member-only fares are not available on all flights or days. Direct flights available on selected days and times. Limited availability over public holiday weekends and school holidays. ^Discounts on fares, bags and seat selection only available on new bookings made at Jetstar.com for flights departing Australian airports (Club Jetstar Australia members) or New Zealand airports (Club Jetstar New Zealand members).

Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

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2/06/2017 10:22 am 13/06/2017 12:11 PM

Entertainment Explore I INTERVIEW I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

DRAMA SERIES

45 mins per episode, Season 3

22 mins per episode, Season 10

The Good Place

ザ・グッド・プレイス

22 mins per episode, Season 1

Sent to Heaven by mistake, a flawed woman tries to avoid discovery and live up to the goodness expected of her by her angelic mentor.

誤って天国に送られた欠点だらけの女性が、間違いだと気づかれないよう天国で悪戦苦闘しながら、天使のような庇護者の望む通り、善行を重ねようと奮闘する。

146

THE FLASH／フラッシュ

なボクらの恋愛法則

Red Dwarf

宇宙船レッド・ドワーフ号

30 mins per episode, Season 11

Rimmer, Cat, Lister, and Kryten are quirky characters who explore new places.

リマー、キャット、リスター、クライテンの面々が、レッド・ドワーフ号乗組員として探検に出る。

Superstore

スーパーストア

22 mins per episode, Season 1

America Ferrera and Ben Feldman star in an hilarious workplace comedy about a unique family of employees at a super-sized megastore. アメリカ・フェレーラとベン・フェルドマンが共演。巨大スーパーマーケットで働くおかしな従業員たちが繰り広げる、愉快な職場コメディ。

Leonard and Sheldon are brilliant physicists, the kind of “beautiful minds” that understand how the universe works. But their genius doesn’t help them interact with people, especially women. All this begins to change when a free-spirited woman named Penny moves in next door. レナードとシェルドンは、他人とうまく交われない天才的な物理学者。

Futurama**

フューチュラマ

22 mins per episode, Season 7

Fry is accidentally cryogenically frozen in 1999 and wakes up 1000 years later.

1999年、フライは誤って極低温貯蔵で冷凍されてしまい、1000年後に目覚める。

The Mindy Project

ザ・ミンディ・プロジェクト

22 mins per episode, Season 5

There once was a girl who was in love with love – and hopeless at finding it. Show creator and Emmynominee Mindy Kaling stars as a 30-something doctor whose entire outlook on relationships has been formed by her lifelong obsession with romantic comedies.

大好きなロマンチックコメディのような恋を夢見る女医の物語。

22 mins per episode, Season 1

A young woman works at a firm to make bystanders of superheroes safer. セキュリティ会社に勤務する若い女性が、スーパーヒーローの戦いの現場に居合わせた人々に「安全」を提供する。

142-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_JULY17.indd 146

Powerless

パワーレス

The Flash

A freak accident causes a forensic scientist to become a speedy superhero. 不慮の事故に遭った科学捜査官助手の青年が、超人的なスピードを身につけたスーパーヒーローになる。

Riverdale リバーデイル

45 mins per episode, Season 1

High school students in the small town of Riverdale are still reeling from the tragic and mysterious death of one of their classmates. 小さな町リバーデイルに住む高校生たちは、ひとりのクラスメイトの悲劇的なの死に動揺

している。

The Doctor Blake Mysteries*** 警察医ブレイク

45 mins per episode, Season 4

The Doctor Blake Mysteries stars Craig McLachlan as maverick country town doctor Lucien Blake. A risk-taker, he’s impulsive and not afraid to upset the status quo. 田舎町で一匹狼として働くルシアン・ブレイク医師は、現状を打破することを恐れない。

Supernatural スーパーナチュラル

45 mins per episode, Season 12

Two brothers protect humanity by battling destructive supernatural forces, including creatures from Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory, with the help of various friends and even angels. 天国、地獄、獄からやって来た邪悪な超常的存在から人類を守るため、友人や天使と手を組み、戦う兄弟の物語。

Mr. Robot****

MR. ROBOT／ミスター・ロ

ボット

45 mins per episode, Season 2

A young programmer named Elliot suffers from a debilitating anti-social disorder and decides he can only connect to people by hacking them. Like a superhero, he wields his hacking powers as a weapon to protect the people he cares about from those who are trying to hurt them. 若きプログラマー、エリオットは、人々をハッキングすることでその人たちとつながろうと決心する。

Shades of Blue

ブルックリン警察 -内部告発-

45 mins per episode, Season 1

Shades of Blue, a complex police series, centres on Harlee Santos, a single mother and detective recruited to work undercover for the FBI’s anti-corruption task force. FBI汚職防止対策部の潜入捜査官として活動するシングルマザーのハーリー・サントス刑事を主人公に、警察内部を描くドラマ。

*SUPERSTORE © 2015 UNIVERSAL TELEVISION LLC **FUTURAMA © 2008 TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM CORPORATION ***THE DOCTOR BLAKE MYSTERIES © 2014 DECEMBER MEDIA PTY LIMITED, SCREEN AUSTRALIA, FILM VICTORIA AND AUSTRALIAN BROADCASTING CORPORATION ****MR. ROBOT © 2016 UNIVERSAL NETWORK TELEVISION LLC

The Big Bang Theory

COMEDY SERIES

13/06/2017 1:18 PM

201705

Turn their ‘some day’ into a holiday.

Jetstar Gift Cards in stores now. • $50 or $100 Gift Cards • Available from leading retailers • Valid for 12 months These cards can be used on jetstar.com to book flights, or flights plus accommodation/activities in one transaction. For Australian dollar gift cards, bookings can be made in Australian dollars on our Jetstar Australia site only. For New Zealand dollar gift cards, bookings can be made in New Zealand dollars on our Jetstar New Zealand site only.

All day, every day, low fares Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243.

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29/05/2017 2:04 pm 13/06/2017 12:11 PM

Entertainment I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

Adele – Live in London

KIDS

アデルライブ・イン・ロンドン

23 mins per episode

Lip Sync Battle リップシンクバトル

45 mins per episode

Star Trek Beyond stars Zoe Saldana and Zachary Quinto battle it out. 『スター・トレック BEYOND』のゾーイ・サルダナとザカリー・クイントが対決。

Luxe Asia ラグゼ・アジア

30 mins per episode 148

Host Anita Kapoor continues her exclusive journey to the most luxurious locations across Asia, experiencing the cutting-edge travel trends enjoyed by Asia’s elite. ホストのアニタ・カプールが、アジア随一の高級リゾートを訪問。

Sean Conway: On The Edge* ショーン・コンウェイ：オン・ジ・エッジ

60 mins per episode

An extreme endurance adventurer tries a 4,000+ mile continuous ultra triathlon. およそ6,500kmのウルトラ・トライアスロンに挑んだ耐久アドベンチャー選手のドラマ。

歌手のアデルが、世界中でヒットした名曲の数々のほか、新曲を披露。

Rocking Cambodia: Rise of a Pop Diva

ロッキング・カンボジア：ライズ・オブ・ア・ポップ・ディーヴァ

57 mins per episode

Follow one inspirational woman whose lifelong dream takes her from a Phnom Penh karaoke bar to Paris, Hong Kong and beyond, as she discovers that the path from obscurity, poverty and trauma to fame and no fortune has never been easy. ひとりの女性が、生涯の夢を追ってプノンペンのカラオケバーからパリへと旅立つ。

Revenge Body with Khloe Kardashian

捨てられ、解雇された経験のある人に、究極のリベンジ（復讐）のチャンスをくれる番組。

142-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_JULY17.indd 148

ハーレー・ディアスが大家族と送る毎日を描くドラマ。

Elena of Avalor*** アバローのプリンセスエレナ

23 mins per episode

Princess Elena must learn to rule Avalor.

SpongeBob SquarePants and friends live in the underwater town of Bikini Bottom.

プリンセス・エレナは評議会の力を借りながら、アバローを統治する術を学んでいく。

スポンジ・ボブと仲間たちは、海底都市ビキニ・ボトムに住んでいる。

Disney Mickey Mouse***

The Lion Guard***

ライオン・ガード

23 mins per episode

ディズニーミッキーマウス！

23 mins per episode

Mickey Mouse finds himself in silly situations all around the world.

Kion, second-born cub of Simba and Nala, becomes the leader of the Lion Guard.

ミッキーマウスが世界中でハプニングに巻き込まれる。

シンバとナラの第二子であるカイオンは、ライオン・ガードのリーダーとなった。

ダイヤルEフォー・エマ！

Dial E for Emma!

Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy***

45 mins per episode

クシー

エマは『ダンスの書』を読み、さまざまなスタイルのダンスを知る。

ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギャラ

The Guardians of the Galaxy find a mystical treasure map to a powerful weapon.

People who have been dumped or fired get the ultimate chance for revenge.

Harley Diaz navigates everyday life with a not-soaverage-sized family.

24 mins per episode

45 mins per episode

イドリス・エルバがプロキックボクサーを目指してトレーニングを受け、ベテランボクサーと闘うまで。

スポンジ・ボブ

23 mins per episode

カーダシアン

蹴撃！キックボクサーへの道

Idris Elba trains as a professional kickboxer to take on a seasoned fighter.

SpongeBob SquarePants

リベンジボディ・ウィズ・クロエ・

Idris Elba: Fighter** 60 mins per episode

60 mins per episode

Adele performs some of her world-famous classic tracks, as well as eagerly awaited new material, accompanied by her band in front of a live studio audience.

Stuck in the Middle*** ハーレーはド真ん中

ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギャラクシーは、強力な武器のありかを示した宝の地図を発見する。

Horrible Histories: Staggering Storytellers Special

ホリブル・ヒストリーズ : スタガリング・ストーリーテラーズ・スペシャル

Emma discovers different styles of dance.

Lego DC Comics Super Heroes レゴ DCコミックススーパーヒーローズ

72 mins per episode

Batman faces his greatest challenge yet: vacation! バットマンは最大の難題に直面している。難題とは、バケーションだ。

Lego Scooby-Doo! LEGO®スクービー・ドゥー

30 mins per episode

72 mins per episode

Follows some of literature’s greatest works and history’s wackiest writers.

The gang heads to Hollywood.

名作文学ととりわけ風変わりな作家たちを読み解く番組。

スクービー・ドゥーたち一行が世界のエンターテインメントの首都ハリウッドを訪れる。

* SEAN CONWAY: ON THE EDGE © DISCOVERY **IDRIS ELBA: FIGHTER © DISCOVERY ***MARVEL’S GUARDIANS OF THE GALAXY, THE LION GUARD, ELENA OF AVALOR, DISNEY MICKEY MOUSE, STUCK IN THE MIDDLE © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC.

LIFESTYLE & REALITY

13/06/2017 1:18 PM

Jetstar_Lipsticks_200x260mm.pdf

9/06/17

12:08 pm

Lipsticks so healthy you could almost eat themâ&#x201E;¢

A FRESH NEW RANGE OF MOISTURE-BOOST NATURAL LIPSTICKS FEATURING AVOCADO, EVENING PRIMROSE & CALENDULA OILS DISCOVER YOURS AT: Priceline, David Jones and Myers.

142-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_JULY17.indd 149

13/06/2017 12:11 PM

Entertainment I AUDIO/GAMES I Available on 787 seatback screens

ALBUMS

Lee Kernaghan 25th Anniversary Album

Katy Perry ft Skip Marley Chained to the Rhythm

Carrie & Tommy キャリー＆トミ

Game On Australia ゲーム・オ

リー・カーナガン 25thアニバーサ

ケイティ・ペリーfeat.スキップ・

The Em Rusciano Radio Show with Harley Breen

Mini Meditations (Kids) ミ

リー・アルバム

マーリーチェーン・トゥ・ザ・リズム

Tina Arena Tina Arena (Greatest Hits & Interpretations)

ヴェラ・ブループライヴェート

Vera Blue Private

ー・ポッドキャスト

ザ・エム・ルチアーノ・ラジオショー・ウィズ・ハーレー・ブリーン

Chrissy, Sam & Browny

ティナ・アリーナティナ・アリーナ

The McClymonts Don’t Wish it All Away

クリッシー、サム＆ブラウニー・ポッ

リテーシ…

イット・オール・アウェイ

ザ・マクリモンツドント・ウィッシュ・

Fitzy & Wippa フィッツィー＆ウ

The Chainsmokers Memories…Do Not Open

The Weeknd ft Daft Punk I feel it coming

Kate, Tim & Marty ケイト、ティ

ザ・ウィークエンドfeat.ダフト・パン

The Grill Team ザ・グリル・チー

（グレイテストヒッツ＆インタープ

ザ・チェインスモーカーズメモリー

150

PODCASTS & RADIO

ズ…ドゥ・ノット・オープン

クアイ・フィール・イット・カミング

Polish Club Alright Already

Zedd ft Alessia Cara Stay

ポリッシュ・クラブオールライト・

ゼッドfeat.アレッシア・カーラ

オルレディ

ステイ

John Williams John Williams & Steven Spielberg: The Ultimate Collection ジョン・ウィ

Michael Kiwanuka Cold Little Heart

リアムズ J・ウィリアムズ＆S・スピルバーグ：ジ・アルティメット…

MUSIC VIDEOS

マイケル・キワヌーカコールド・リトル・ハート

ルーク・ブライアンファスト

Jamiroquai Cloud 9 Hey Violet Break My Heart ヘイ・ヴァイオレットブレイク・マイ・ハート

142-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_JULY17.indd 150

Merrickville with Merrick Watts メリックビル・ウィズ・メリ

ック・ワッツ

The Hot Breakfast ザ・ホット・

ブレックファスト・ポッドキャスト

ニ・メディテーションズ（キッズ）

Meditations (Adult) メディテーションズ（アダルト）

NOVA Hear the freshest hits on NOVA, hosted by Smallzy. オーストラリアからスマルジーが最新ヒット曲をお届けします。

Smooth FM Chill out to these favourites. イージーリスニングプログラム。

GAMES

Hamish & Andy ハミッシュ＆アンディー・ポッドキャスト

Rove & Sam ローヴ＆サム・ポッ Fifi, Dave, Fev & Byron フィ

Luke Bryan Fast

ジャミロクワイクラウド9

ム・ポッドキャスト

ドキャスト

シグリッドドント・キル・マイ・ヴ

ーウッドザ・ファイター

ム＆マーティー・ポッドキャスト

ディーン・ルイスニード・ユー・ナウ

ァイブ

キース・アーバンfeat.キャリー・アンダ

ィッパ・ポッドキャスト

Dean Lewis Need you now Sigrid Don’t kill my vibe

Keith Urban ft Carrie Underwood The Fighter

ドキャスト

ン・オーストラリア

フィ、デイヴ＆フェヴ・ポッドキャスト

The Kyle & Jackie O Show カイル＆ジャッキーO・ポッドキャスト

Hughsey & Kate ヒュージー＆ケ

イト・ポッドキャスト

Kinderling Conversation

Tetris

テトリス

Chess

チェス

Don Diablo & Marnik Children Of A Miracle

キンダリング・カンバセーションズ

Bejeweled 2

ドン・ディアブロ＆マーニクチルドレ

プ・ポッドキャスト

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Backpage I TALES FROM ROW 57*

When travel rhymes with unravel

152

I AM WRITING this having just ‘showered’, crouched under the tiny faucet of the bath tap in my Cairns hotel room. I would have preferred to stand under a gushing flood of water like a normal person, but not for the first time in my travels I was unable to work out how the shower nozzle actually worked. We’ve all got that one friend for whom the world is a big, scary place where inexplicably weird things happen while on holiday. I am that friend. I once took my sister on a “relaxing” holiday to Queenstown, and I distinctly recall her scoffing when I grabbed two bottles of duty-free whisky as we dashed to the plane. Fast forward to the next four days, which included highlights such as two of our tour vehicle’s four wheels precariously spinning over a cliff ledge; me being carried down a mountain in a whiteout by not one, but two Kiwi sherpas and, on our last day at a seemingly sedate farm, a rogue ram breaking free from the pack and charging straight at us while we leapt for the fence. Drink? We were opening

those whisky bottles for breakfast. Once, on a work trip to Phuket, I accidentally stole the room maid’s shoes, believing they were the hotel slippers. It was only at dinner that night, having pranced around the resort in those slightly worn orange wedges, did it become apparent that my colleagues had not been “gifted” the same footwear. From Cambodia to Coolangatta, the Cook Islands and everywhere in between, I’ve acquired similar stories of destination destruction.

Drink? We were opening those whisky bottles for breakfast Back in Australia, I recently tried to furiously open my Noosa hotel room, only to eventually realise I was on the wrong floor. This wouldn’t have been so bad had there not been a group of frightened tourists inside, staring through the peep hole at a complete maniac

slapping at their door. Unlike one friend who possesses similar dumb luck, I am yet to lock myself out of my hotel room stark naked. He stole The Australian newspaper conveniently left outside another guest’s room, and used it to cover his vitals while he sheepishly approached reception for a spare key. I’m sure that day is coming and when it does, I intend to take this copy of Jetstar Magazine with me, and hope this tawdry travel tale adequately covers all of my sins.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

For some who journey, it’s a jungle out there, as Christine Retschlag knows all too well

* ROW 57 IS THE LAST ROW OF SEATING ON JETSTAR’S 787 AIRCRAFT.

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13/06/2017 12:15 PM

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