Jetstar May 2018 Magazine by HGM

MAY 2018

MAGAZINE

NEWCASTLE

BEST FOOT FORWARD WHY NEWCASTLEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COFFEE SCENE IS ONE STEP AHEAD

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Winter

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From devouring comfort food to exploring the great outdoors and relaxing with as little fuss as possible, here are some of the best ways to make the most of the cooler months

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FESTIVAL OF VOICES Thousands of singers, choristers and music lovers descend on the Apple Isle each year for this annual event. Taking place across the state from 29 June to 15 July, expect music galore.

DARK MOFO A riot of art, food, film, music, light and noise, Mona’s winter festival (15-24 June) is renowned for pushing boundaries. Head to Hobart to witness a new take on winter solstice rituals.

HUON VALLEY MID-WINTER FESTIVAL Drinking craft cider, feasting on local produce, singing loudly, listening to stories and gathering around bonfires. These are the basic tenets of this festival (13-15 July) in southernmost Tassie.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

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WINTER FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

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INDULGENT WINTER EXPERIENCES A WALDHEIM ALPINE SPA Soak up views of alpine rainforest at Cradle Mountain Lodge’s luxury spa and The Sanctuary. Ease the aches of a day’s bushwalking and hop between the steam room, sauna and plunge pool.

B ROCKY HILLS RETREAT This secluded hideaway, not far from Swansea, offers 250 acres of private bushland. It boasts an outdoor bath made of Huon pine and an art studio for those who want to paint, sketch and read in peace.

D PORT ARTHUR Step into the past at this UNESCO World HeritageListed Site and learn of the hardships faced at the prison ‘at the end of the earth’. Stay around after dark for a chilling lantern-lit ghost tour.

E BRICKENDON AND WOOLMERS Discover Tasmania’s colonial legacy at Woolmers and Brickendon Estates, where convicts provided free labour on the grand properties of wealthy settlers. F PANDEMONIUM Hear the stories of the wretched souls who passed through the Hobart Convict Penitentiary as Pandemonium – The Convict Film Experience is projected up on the historical walls.

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C FREYCINET COASTAL PAVILLIONS Get back to nature in the nine new luxury pods at Freycinet Lodge. The Coastal Pavilions offer floor-to-ceiling curved glass windows and private decks with outdoor tubs.

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WINTER HISTORY LESSONS

OUTDOORS IN WINTER J THOUSAND LAKES LODGE Cosy up in front of a fireplace in a former Antarctic training base transformed into a luxury wilderness lodge, and explore via erratic paths carved by resident wombats.

FOOD AND DRINK FOR WINTER G TASMANIAN WHISKY TRAIL In a place where whisky is still made the old-fashioned way, discover the characters who make the Tasmanian spirit special and hear their stories on this tasting trail.

H TRUFFLES OF TASMANIA Cold winter nights, heavy frosts and long, warm summer days make Tasmania ideal for raising black truffles. Discover why chefs across the globe treasure the taste and quality. I COOKING SCHOOLS If you like your holidays served up with a side of learning, book yourself into one of Tassie’s most renowned cooking schools, such as the Agrarian Kitchen.

K BRUNY ISLAND WINTER LONG WEEKEND Explore a gourmet paradise and fill the larder with cheese, oysters and wine. At night, gather around the fire and watch for nocturnal wildlife and the Aurora Australis. L OVERLAND TRACK Strap on your snow shoes and join a guided trip for a chance to see Tasmania’s Overland under a blanket of snow. You’ll breathe in some of the world’s freshest air on the four- or six-day trail.

gobehindthescenery.com.au

Promotion I MRS SIPPY

MEET MRS SIPPY

F O O D & B E V E R AG E

Hugging the contours of Bali’s largest saltwater pool, Mrs Sippy Bali is a tropical oasis inspired by old-fashioned fun for the young at heart. Situated in the heart of Seminyak amongst shady palms, take a leap of faith off the iconic triple-tier dive tower and into the purest crystal clear water. Walk in and you can’t help but wonder how you left the bustle of Seminyak. The whole family is welcome in the venue, with activities and menus for the kids as well as “Sippy Beach” for those wanting to escape.

Guests can sip on expertly shaken cocktails while dancing to the island’s best locally based and international DJs who spin tropical tunes daily. A premier event and dining destination, the menu boasts fresh, locally produced seafood using traditional wood firing techniques. The 200-seat restaurant is anchored by a five-metre Jimbaranstyle grill, operated by Michelin-starred executive chef Jonay Armas. Long-slung tables are piled high with icy buckets of rosé, chargrilled snapper, octopus and pizza.

EVENTS

C O N TAC T D E TA I L S Mrs Sippy is open from 10am to 9pm, seven days. Jalan Taman Ganesha, Gang Gagak 8, Seminyak.

+62 361 3351079 mrssippybali.com Sometimes you just need to let your hair down. So if you are planning a private party, corporate event or the big day, Mrs Sippy Bali is the #1 destination for fun times - catering for groups of up to 10, and larger gatherings of up to 1500 people.

43 Exploring Eyre

MAY

ON THE COVER: Local Instagrammer Sam takes in his hometown from sky high PHOTOGRAPHY: SAM EARP

contents MAY 2018

EXPERIENCE

14 I WHAT’S ON

50 I PHOTO ESSAY

16 I NEWS

The large-scale art project bringing life to rural Victoria

21 I #JETSTARAUSTRALIA Our favourite shots from snap-happy travellers

22 I MY PLACE Muso Winston McCall on his hometown of Byron Bay

24 I THE SHORTLIST

59-80 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH From South Australia’s coast to its culinary capital

82 I MULTI-GEN TRAVELS Have group, will travel

91 I BALI TWO WAYS

The very best in brunch

Bali charms from the chaotic centre to the serene east

26 I HOW-TO

97 I THE COFFEE COAST

Say hello across the network without uttering a word

29 I DRINK UP

113

EXPLORE

Raise a glass to World Whisky Day

31 I FOOD TREND Australia is developing a taste for truffles

Newcastle’s metamorphosis as seen in the bean

104 I HIGHTAIL IT HERE Why Phú Quôc is hot

113 I AN ISLAND IDYLL Paradise found on Queensland’s Orpheus Island

121 I CITY OF CHANGE

35 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

Darwin shows its versatility

Discover grungy cool in Victoria’s Geelong

160 I BACKPAGE Tales from row 57

38 I BEAUTY Meet the mind behind an Australian day-spa empire

40 I RECIPE

104

ESSENTIALS

South East Asian eats on the Sunshine Coast

134 I Jetstar news

43 I SPA & WELLNESS

144 I Where we fly

Soak away all cares at this Victorian hot spring

151 I Games and puzzles

46 I WORK AND PLAY

155 I Entertainment

When inspiration becomes innovation

guide

Is there really a place like Nowhere Else? Ever been to the edge of the world? Could you look a devil in the eye? Can art bend your mind? Welcome to a land where your curious never goes hungry.

Plan your curious trip at gobehindthescenery.com.au

fb.com/tasmania

@tasmania

Welcome I GROUP CEO

JETSTAR MAGAZINE is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia

A special birthday surprise

+61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com.au Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Simon Tsang Editor Krysia Bonkowski Deputy Editor Chloe Cann Subeditors Leanne Tolra and Diana Baxter Designers Natalie LaChina and Sarah McMillan Picture Editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015. Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

we know even the smallest gesture can go a long way

our-year-old Archer loves planes. So much so, that for his recent birthday Archer’s mum Kristy flew him on JQ602 from Avalon to Sydney, just so he could watch aircraft take off and land at Sydney Airport for the day. When our crew found out Archer’s favourite aircraft is the Boeing 787 Dreamliner, they knew the perfect way to top off his birthday would be for him to captain his very own flight. Jetstar invited Archer and his family to the 787 flight simulator at the Qantas Group Training Facility in Melbourne, where Jetstar’s Chief Pilot Jeremy Schmidt took Archer for his first flying lesson.

Sitting in the Captain’s seat in his new pilot uniform, Archer took off from Tullamarine and flew around Melbourne, learning from Captain Schmidt as he went. It certainly was a birthday to remember, not just for Archer but the whole family. Every day our crew hears amazing stories, and here at Jetstar we know even the smallest gesture can go a long way. Maybe one day we will see Archer captain a real flight as a Jetstar pilot. We look forward to having Archer – and other aspiring pilots of all ages – on board again soon. Enjoy your flight with us today, and say hi to your pilots on the way out. They’re here to make your journey a smooth one.

Gareth Evans Jetstar Group CEO

In the hot seat

PHOTO MORNINGTON PENINSULA HOT SPRINGS

Soaking it off

Rest aching bones in a serene open-air setting at the Peninsula Hot Springs on Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mornington Peninsula. Turn to page 43 to find bliss.

LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

Experience I WHAT’S ON

Catch the last autumn colour

May Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Blues on Broadbeach

17-20 May Gold Coast, Queensland Seventeen years strong and counting, this free music festival takes over the streets and shores of Broadbeach, with 20 performance areas. Best of all, it’s free to attend and there’s even a free shuttle bus to cart you between venues. bluesonbroadbeach.com

Wide Open Space Festival 4-6 May Ross River Resort, Northern Territory

Rocks, sand and river red gums form the unlikely backdrop for a rollicking Red Centre festival: held in the East MacDonnell Ranges, Wide Open Space comprises music, arts and desert culture, with national and international performers and artists gracing the three-day festival’s program. wideopenspace.net.au

SINGAPORE

Vesak 29 May Singapore

South Australia’s History Festival Until 31 May Statewide

Delve into the curious collections of the state’s museums and buildings. With more than 600 activities to choose from – including tours, talks, kids’ events, concerts, dinners and exhibitions – this community event is a must-do. historyfestival.sa.gov.au

Hyundai A-League 2018 Grand Final

5-6 May Location to be announced Set your watches for the A-League 2018 soccer grand final – a sporting event now in its 13th edition. For those who can’t make it to the game, the finals will be broadcast live on Network Ten. a-league.com.au

The Hills Artisans 5-6 May Perth, Western Australia

Head to the hills for this arty, family-friendly festival. Hosted in the small suburb of Pickering Brook on Perth’s outskirts, there will be handmade creations such as jewellery, ceramics, homewares and paintings for sale, plus fun for the kids (think face painting, balloonists and a glitter tattoo station). hillsartisans.weebly.com

One of the most significant dates in the Buddhist calendar, Vesak Day begins with temple ceremonies and culminates in candlelit processions through the streets – Kong Meng San Phor Kark See Temple is a great spot to watch the action from.

PHOTOGRAPHY GEORGE BYRNE, TOURISM AUSTRALIA / KRISTOFFER PAULSEN, WIDE OPEN SPACE FESTIVAL, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Experience I WHAT’S ON

Auckland Writers Festival 15-20 May Auckland, New Zealand

Featuring some of the globe’s most celebrated thinkers and writers (think Norwegian Karl Ove Knausgård, and Diary of a Wimpy Kid author Jeff Kinney), it’s a must for bookworms. writersfestival.co.nz

Shop the City 16 May Melbourne, Victoria

Retailers take over the city for this twice-yearly event. From 10am until 10pm, food and drink pop-ups will emerge to sustain shoppers, with plenty of oneday-only offers at local stores. shopthecity.com.au

Tasmanian Breath of Fresh Air Film Festival (BOFA) 17-20 May Launceston, Tasmania

Bringing 30 of the best documentaries and feature films from festivals around the world to one local cinema complex, BOFA delivers Launcestonians inspiration from near and far. breath-of-fresh-air.com.au

Head On Photo Festival 5-20 May Sydney and surrounds, New South Wales Australia’s largest photography festival, Head On showcases the work of emerging artists from across the planet, as well as hosting workshops and talks from prizewinning photographers. Festival venues span the city’s boundaries. headon.com.au

It’s a great month to… SWING to the sweet sound of ivories tinkling at the 2018 Cavell Leitch New Zealand International Jazz & Blues Festival (23-27 May), Christchurch.

QUAFF craft brews at Melbourne’s annual Good Beer Week (11-20 May) and choose from more than 300 events, with masterclasses, degustations, award ceremonies and more.

BOUNCE over to the Bay of Islands Country Rock Festival (11-13 May) in New Zealand, where line dancing and street music are king.

High Country Harvest 4-20 May High Country, Victoria

Feast on fresh produce and fine wine, with a comprehensive calendar of events this High Country Harvest Festival – from huddling around the village bonfire with a palmful of roasted chestnuts, to selfguided, food-focused rail trail rides. highcountryharvest.com.au

Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

Q&A

with Joel Creasey INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

probably leave dumber, but damn you’ll have had a laugh.

What city has the best crowds for stand-up?

Welcome on board

Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

How does it feel to be invited back to host Eurovision for SBS?

Australia’s so-called Crown Prince of Comedy, Joel Creasey has presented seven sell-out, stand-up tours across the globe and become a TV staple thanks to his acid tongue. The awardwinning comedian – who is based in Melbourne, but grew up in Perth – has also released his first memoir, and remains a regular on the touring circuit, with upcoming gigs in Sydney and Perth. This month he’s heading to Lisbon to co-host SBS’s coverage of the Eurovision Song Contest with iconic radio announcer Myf Warhurst. How did you get your start in comedy? I entered the [national standup competition] Raw Comedy in WA [aged 17]. I didn’t win but I made the state final. It definitely gave me an early taste for it and I was hooked.

You’re just about to do the comedy festival rounds in Perth and Sydney. What can people expect from your show? A very cathartic hour of bitching. My stand-up is just silly celebrity stories and crazy, embarrassing situations I’ve found myself in. You’ll

Stoked. Myf Warhurst and I have fallen in love so any chance to work with her again is brilliant. And I do love Eurovision so much – it’s a dream job.

Do you think Australia is in with a chance of winning in Lisbon this year? Are you kidding!? Have you heard Jessica Mauboy sing? She is going to kill it!

What was your highlight of hosting Mardi Gras for SBS this year? Without a doubt meeting Cher. She was incredible, and so beautiful. Also working with Magda Szubanski was divine.

You recently debuted as a captain on new panel game show Show Me the Movie! Why do you think TV was overdue a quiz about films? Because everybody loves – and has strong opinions on – movies. It’s a bloody great show and working with [host] Rove [McManus] is very cool.

In your opinion, what is Australian cinema’s biggest classic? Strictly Ballroom! My all-time favourite film. Catch Joel on the SBS broadcast of The Eurovision Song Contest, 9 to 13 May

PHOTOGRAPHY ALIBI BAR, GABS, EUROVISION, WESTIN PERTH

Recently, Jetstar commenced direct flights between Adelaide and Hobart. And now, thousands of travellers are taking advantage of the low fares between the two cities. It’s already been dubbed ‘the hipster route’ due to the varied cultural offerings in both Adelaide and Hobart, which are attracting record tourist numbers. In this edition, we explore some of South Australia’s best experiences in both Adelaide and beyond. From the stories behind the stallholders at Adelaide Central Market to a neighbourhood breakdown of Adelaide’s best eats, it won’t take much convincing that the socalled City of Churches is heaven for foodies. For a look at some of the state’s other attractions, check out page 69, where we uncover seafood and adventure on the Eyre Peninsula. Also in this issue, you’ll be able to read about the best ways to travel as a group on page 82, whether as a multi-generational family or with friends. Never before has it been easier to travel in a group, thanks to Jetstar services such as ‘FareShare’, which allows you to split the bill on group bookings via jetstar.com. What’s more, Jetstar is the only Australian airline to offer this service. For further inspiration turn to page 97, where you’ll get a close-up look at Newcastle’s booming coffee culture, or page 104, where we unearth Vietnam’s best-kept island secret – tropical Phu QuÔc. Or perhaps choose your own adventure on the natural haven that is Orpheus Island – from a budget to a blowout escape, we’ve got it all covered on page 113. Wherever you’re travelling today, I hope you enjoy your trip.

Every city has its merits, but I am from Perth so I do love playing there with the hometown advantage.

Experience I NEWS

JUST OPENED

WE’RE LOVING

BREW BONANZA Marrying a trinity of earthly delights (beer, cider and food), GABS (the Great Australian Beer SpecTAPular) will soon descend upon Melbourne (18-20 May to coincide with Good Beer Week), Sydney (2 June) and Auckland (30 June). The boutique beer festival showcases never-before-tasted brews crafted by homegrown producers, with a side of street food thrown in for good measure. gabsfestival.com

A new Perth pile Perth’s hotel boom sees no signs of halting anytime soon. Hot on the heels of The InterContinental, and ahead of the QT, comes the rather chic 368-room Westin. Sporting a minimalist fit-out, the five-star property opened late last month within the sparkling new Hibernian Place development, in Perth’s East End. The complex also houses rustic Roman osteria Garum – led by famed Melbourne restaurateur Guy Grossi (pictured), boutique coffee roaster and café Offshoot, and a rooftop bar and supper club named Hadiqa. starwoodhotels.com

TREND WATCH

Hail the hybrid

Hotels have come a long way since towel animals and continental breakfasts – today’s properties blur the line between a place of board and community hubs. Two recent Sydney openings are a case in point. Surry Hills’s new Paramount House Hotel (paramounthousehotel.com) features a cinema and bar; a co-working space; award-winning café; and yet-to-beunveiled rooftop health club and outdoor garden café; all open to the public. While Woolloomooloo’s Ovolo Hotel has added 100 per cent plant-based restaurant and bar Alibi (alibibar.com.au), spearheaded by US pioneer Matthew Kenney. It’s the first of its kind in an Australian hotel.

Experience I NEWS

ARMCHAIR TRAVELLER

THREE OF A KIND

Famous

MAPS AND MORE

TO CELEBRATE THE LAUNCH OF THE NEW TV MINI-SERIES REMAKE OF PICNIC AT HANGING ROCK, PREMIERING ON FOXTEL ON 6 MAY, HERE ARE THREE SCENIC FILMING LOCATIONS ACROSS AUSTRALIA

A reboot of the 1975 flick (pictured) – and an adaptation of the 1967 novel of the same name – the six-part, 2018 production of Picnic at Hanging Rock features Greater Melbourne’s Lysterfield Park and Werribee Mansion, among others.

Sydney’s iconic sites are squarely showcased in Mission Impossible 2, from the Opera House to the Harbour Bridge and Royal Botanic Gardens. But the lesser-known Bare Island in Sydney suburb La Perouse – and its ex-military fort – wins some substantial airtime during an action scene near the film’s end.

Though the film is loosely based on a true story that took place in Western Australia, the 2002 film RabbitProof Fence was filmed almost entirely in and around Nilpena Station in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges.

Trace through the streets of 30 cities across six continents in Lonely Planet’s new activity book. While making your way through the maze of streets you’ll uncover flagship sights (think Sydney’s Opera House and Hong Kong’s Victoria Peak) to buried treasures (such as local flea markets, classical music venues and lush parks). Another travel title not to be missed is Monocle’s recently released Melbourne guidebook, which leads readers through a stable of minimalist laneway coffee shops, avant-garde galleries and neighbourhood concept stores that only a true local would know. Melbourne – The Monocle Travel Guide Series, Gestalten, RRP $31.95 shop.gestalten.com City Mazes, Lonely Planet, RRP $24.99, shop.lonelyplanet.com

SEASONAL PICK

Snow time like the present Dust off your boots and dig out your salopettes – the 2018 ski season is about to take off. Perisher in New South Wales will be the first in the country to reopen its slopes later this month (26 May), while NSW’s remaining resorts and Victoria will welcome powder hounds from June. Happy Valley in Ruapehu on the North Island will be first out of the gates in New Zealand (2 June) followed by Mt Hutt (8 June) and the Remarkables (9 June) on the South Island, with all slopes open by mid-July. Happy skiing!

PHOTOGRAPHYJULIAN APSE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY

FILMING LOCATIONS

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Join Club Jetstar now for $49* • Use your member benefits within 60 days or your money back~ • Exclusive member-only fares# • Early access to our biggest sales • 20% off bags and seat selection^ • Partner offers tailored just for members

Get on board at jetstar.com

*There is a Club Jetstar joining fee of AUD/NZD $49.00 and an annual membership of AUD/NZD $49.99, waived for the first year. ~Join Club Jetstar between 01/05/18 and 31/05/18 for $49 and if you do not use membership to purchase Club Jetstar discounted airfares, discounted baggage or discounted seats within 60 days, the Club Jetstar joining fee will be refunded in cash back to the original payment method. #Member-only fares are not available on all flights or days. Limited availability over public holiday weekends and school holidays. ^Discounts on fares, bags and seat selection only available on new bookings made at Jetstar.com. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

Experience I #JETSTARAUSTRALIA

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@prettydressesinthelaundry

Tegallalang, Bali

Tokyo, Japan

@thuc.creative

Are you a snap-happy traveller?

Every day jetsetters share their adventures with @JetstarAustralia on Instagram. Here are some of our favourite snaps from across the network this month

Roys Peak, New Zealand

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SHARE YOUR JOURNEY Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Aitutaki, Cook Islands

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to add #JetstarAustralia to your travel photos!

Experience I MY PLACE

GOT THE The pipes behind cult metalcore band Parkway Drive, on the coastal town that started it all

B 22

yron Bay’s music scene most likely inspires thoughts of surfers strumming soft acoustic tunes, or folk ballads sung by barefoot buskers. But arguably the biggest band to hail from NSW’s hippie idyll has a different sound. Formed in a garage in Ewingsdale in 2003, Winston McCall, Luke Kilpatrick, Jeff Ling, Ben Gordon and later Jia O’Connor became metal meets punk outfit Parkway Drive. “It’s generally the first question in any interview,” laughs lead singer Winston when asked about the disconnect between Byron’s boho reputation and the reality. “[Our music] gave an outlet to a restless youth, a voice to a young community who felt unheard, a chance to create an identity and a soundtrack to fuel our days in the surf.” The band’s first gig was for some 50 kids at the Byron Bay Youth Club. “We couldn’t go to pubs to watch bands so we started our own,” Winston says. “The gigs were always crazy. Underage kids letting loose in a space they created. Heavy music, pure fun, zero dramas.” Soon they were pulling crowds of up to 1000 and the industry took note. But even though the band has left the youth club far behind them – after 15 years of acclaimed albums and world tours – Byron is still home. On the eve of an exhaustive European tour for new album Reverence, Winston shares his favourite spots in Byron Bay.

Experience I MY PLACE

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: “Byron’s best drop” Sparrow Coffee, Cape Byron Lighthouse, sunset surfs.

The lighthouse is still the best place to watch the sunrise and sunset SPARROW COFFEE

THOMPSONS ROCK

1b Byron Street sparrowcoffeeco.com.au This little gem is right in the middle of town – coffee on the go, and great bread. These guys make the best drop in town. It’s the first port of call any day, and [has the] best playlist too.

Between Clarkes Beach and The Pass [surf break] Just down from The Pass, this is probably the most protected stretch of beach when the southerly picks up. The sand has a habit of forming an amazing lagoon on high tide, cial waydriveoffi making it the perfect place for FOLLOW: @park grommets to learn to surf next to the pandanus palms.

PHOTOGRAPHY THE HANDSOME COLLECTIVE, DESTINATION NSW, SHARYN CAIRNS

CAPE BYRON LIGHTHOUSE WALK nationalparks.nsw.gov.au It might be a little busier these days, but the walk never loses its magic and is still the best way to see the bay. The whales have been coming in super close the last couple of years so always keep your eyes peeled. The lighthouse is still the best place to watch the sunrise and sunset, just make sure to snag a good park – it gets crowded.

THE BYRON BAY GENERAL STORE 26 Bangalow Road byrongeneralstore.com I’m a little biased because our drummer owns it, but this iconic spot has had new life breathed into it. There’s awesome, healthy food and a great atmosphere. The beet relish on their veggie burger is next level.

BAY KEBABS 4/8 Jonson Street baykebabs.com These guys have been here as long as I remember. Still the best kebab I’ve had anywhere in the world, and that’s saying a lot. With a bunch of non-traditional ingredients you can make some crazy customisations. I’m partial to the falafel with extra pineapple and jalapeños and cheese. Sounds like a flavour crime, but it’s amazing.

THE WRECK Near the Main Beach car park, Jonson Street If you’re here on a nice clear, calm day you can almost walk to it on low tide. Almost. It’s a short swim, but bring your snorkel and check out what’s

Parkway Drive’s new album, Reverence, drops 4 May,

left of the wreck. You might see some little sharks and a bit of history. If you’re game, you can climb the old rudder and jump off. Don’t bother when the swell gets up though, better to watch the waves break over the entire thing.

JULIAN ROCKS MARINE RESERVE If you have the time, jump on a dive boat and go check out the rocks. It’s not the Great Barrier Reef but it’s pretty amazing. You don’t have to scuba, snorkelling is fine and the depths vary. Green turtles, manta rays, nurse and leopard

sharks; they are all common. Hold on through the boat launch at The Pass – any swell makes for an exciting start to the trip – and keep an eye out for dolphins on the way back.

O-SUSHI 15/90-96 Jonson Street osushi.com.au Finish off your day at O-Sushi. The menu is varied and amazing with plenty of veggie options. The staff are always accommodating and the space is awesome. Keep your eyes on the train – the chefs like to get experimental from time to time, whipping up plates you’ve never seen on the menu, that might never be seen again. Take the risk and try something new, you might end up finding your new favourite flavour.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Ballina Byron Airport from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

Experience I THE SHORTLIST

OF THE BEST

Brunches From bottomless mimosas to Parisian breakfasts, we’ve sourced some of the best brunches across the network

WORDS MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD

1. MARION

53 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne marionwine.com.au   Folks line up at dawn to get their hands on Lune croissants. But it’s at Marion, a wine bar from Andrew McConnell, that you can skip the early start and still reap the rewards. Start with Lune’s ‘classic beurre’ croissant with smoked ham and Comté cheese, before moving on to an omelette with sorrel and wild thyme. Charmed by the understated food, rockstar space and service, you’ll be back for dinner.

2.AMANO

66-68 Tyler Street, Britomart, Auckland amano.nz  Every inch of this 120-seat emporium is Instagram-ready – from the hanging dried flowers to glimmering benches made of crushed oyster shells. The Italian-inspired menu packs as much thought as flavour. Sustainable seafood

and organic produce are put to good use in scampi with sweet corn, polenta and chilli, while apple, onion and poached eggs enliven chicken livers. There’s even brunch spaghetti.

3. DEAD RINGER 413 Bourke Street, Surry Hills, Sydney deadringer.wtf   On weekends this restaurant and bar transforms into one of Sydney’s most lively brunch spots. You won’t find eggs Benedict here, but you will find $25 bottomless mimosas and a hot contender for the best Bloody Mary in town. Dishes such as charred peaches with radicchio and pine nuts, and creamed almonds on toast with dried grapes balance the knockout drinks offering.

4. THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN EATERY 11a The Avenue, New Norfolk, Tasmania theagrariankitchen.com  When kick-off is 11am and there’s house-made bread

and butter, kombucha and batch brew on the menu, it’d be remiss not to include this New Norfolk gem (despite not technically having a brunch menu). Be wooed by the hotsmoker and preserving kitchen, plus a generous $60 set menu. Just 35 minutes from Hobart, fried sourdough potato cakes and buttered rice with smoked pork and zucchini await.

5. HEY JUPITER 11 Ebenezer Place, Adelaide heyjupiter.com.au  After a major overhaul late last year, this all-day East End diner has never been more Parisian. Outwardfacing rattan-style tables and chairs are perfect for people watching. Perhaps over a croque monsieur (a jazzed up ham and cheese sandwich) spiked with tomato chutney and topped with a fried egg, or a breakfast martini, where gin and Cointreau make friends with orange marmalade. Breakfast with Louis Roederer Champagne? Just say oui.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARION / HARVARD WANG

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Experience I HOW TO

HOW TO

Hand to heart

Say hello without words When travelling, actions can speak louder than words. Here’s how to communicate without emitting a syllable

A TOUCH OF HEART IN INDONESIA

hey say more than half of all communication between humans is non-verbal – though for travellers, it must be more than that. At some point in our travelling lives, every single one of us has had to rely on the universal language of hand signals; we’ve all had to get our point across without the use of recognisable words. This is part of the fun of travelling: haggling for rickshaws, buying things in markets, asking for

directions, all through the use of wild gesticulation. The interesting thing, though, is that non-verbal communication isn’t all made up on the spot. In fact, there are often deeply ingrained cultural rituals in most countries; important social interactions that contain no real words. From pressing the palms of your hands together in Thailand to bowing deeply in Japan, these are the nonverbal greetings and customs that you’re most likely to experience on your travels.

THE THAI WAI Most Thai people greet each other in the same fashion: by pressing their palms together in front of their chest in a prayerlike motion, and bowing slightly. The “wai” is also used to express gratitude, or to apologise.

THE WESTERN HANDSHAKE In countries such as Australia, New Zealand and the US – as well as an increasing number of Asian nations – one of the most common ways to greet strangers is by proffering your right hand to shake the other person’s.

ILLUSTRATION STUART HOLMES

Many Indonesians greet each other with a handshake, though the difference is that after breaking the grip, they’ll touch their hand to their heart, as an added gesture of respect.

WORDS BEN GROUNDWATER

Experience I HOW TO

THE JAPANESE BOW

SENIORS FIRST IN CHINA Western-style handshakes have become an accepted form of greeting in China. However, to do it properly, make sure you approach the most senior member of a group first, and work your way down.

THE AUSSIE SALUTE While not strictly a greeting, you might find a whole new form of nonverbal communication in Outback Australia: the ‘Aussie salute’. This is a wave of the hand in front of the face, used to swat away flies.

Japan is famous for its citizens’ custom of bowing to greet people. Though it’s something of a minefield – different levels of respect are conferred through the depth of your bow – any attempt will be appreciated.

VIETNAM’S TWOHANDED SHAKE The Vietnamese also use a traditional handshake, but with a slight difference. To show respect, grasp the other person’s right hand with yours, and then place your left hand over the top before shaking.

THE FILIPINO MANO Filipinos receive blessings from older relatives and other community elders through a “mano”, where the older person’s hand is pressed to their forehead. The gesture is usually accompanied by a bow.

Blessing bestowed

Hands off the head CAMBODIA’S SAMPEAH A “sampeah” is very similar to a Thai “wai”, though the height of your hands, when pressed together, indicates the level of respect: hands start at chest height for good friends, and go up to the forehead for praying to gods.

A final note on nonverbal cues: in most of Asia, as well as Fiji and other Pacific Islands, it’s considered very bad form to touch people’s heads. You should also refrain from pointing the soles of your feet at anyone.

F I R S T S U P P LY R E F I L L F R E E * AT G E T Q U I P. C O M / J E T S TA R

Experience I DRINK UP

The Master Roy Worship at the altar of whisky ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

Hero of the month A cocktail classic

For a sweeter sip A fruity twist

Herbs and spice and all things nice

s if you needed another excuse to sip a nip of the spirit, World Whisky Day is here on 19 May. Whether neat, on the rocks, or in a cocktail, it seems there’s no bad way to enjoy

the ‘water of life’. But to toast the occasion in style, Sydney’s new underground whisky bar, The Doss House, recommends toying with a classic – turn the Rob Roy into a more off-kilter concoction with the addition of Jägermeister .

The Master Roy INGREDIENTS • 50ml Scotch whisky • 15ml sweet vermouth • 10ml Jägermeister • 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters

METHOD Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass filled with ice for 25 seconds. Strain into a small cocktail glass and garnish with orange peel.

Experience I FOOD TREND

One special mushroom

CLOCKWISE: Nigel Wood unearths a truffle, truffles elevate simple meals like scrambled eggs, a valuable find.

Buried treasure You’ll want to get your hands dirty to unearth this emerging Australian delicacy

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN BONKOWSKI, TRUFFLE FESTIVAL MELBOURNE

ew clings to our boots, as we brush through forests of bracken on a crisp morning in regional Victoria. Ahead, a small hound called Henry is dragging his handler through rows of hazelnuts. Reaching a spindly tree, Henry buries his nose at the roots and performs a little bow – his

way of telling us that here lies treasure. We stoop to smell the ground. At first I can only discern leaf litter and moist earth, but soon enough a heady, gamey scent cuts through. When the dirt is scraped away, a mushroom worth more than its weight in gold is revealed. The product of a symbiotic relationship between trees such as oak or hazelnut and a type of fungus, truffles are prized for their intense flavour and ability to elevate even the most basic of dishes. The ancient Mesopotamians, Greeks and Romans were mad for them, but it was the French who popularised the rich

fungi in modern cuisine. Truffles were traditionally foraged from the wild using pigs, but cultivated ‘truffière’ have become more common, as has the practice of using dogs (pigs had the unfortunate tendency to eat the prize). As director of Truffle Melbourne (22 May to 2 September) – the largest truffle festival outside Europe – Nigel Wood made it his mission to “democratise the truffle”. “We Australians love our truffles,” he says. “Demand for fresh truffles, truffle produce and unique truffle experiences has surged.” Melbourne, he explains, is the only capital closely encircled by truffières. “So you can hunt your

We Australians love our truffles truffle in the morning and savour it on a plate for lunch!” To get your hands dirty, join a guided truffle hunt (June through August), visit the Queen Victoria Market festival hub over the weekend of 16 to 17 June, or sit down to a truffle-enlivened meal at one of many dining events over the season. Australia is the world’s fourth-largest black truffle producer, behind France, Spain and Italy. But rewind a couple of decades and Australian truffles were unheard of, until Tasmanian couple Tim and Adele Terry

Experience I FOOD TREND

founded the Tasmanian Truffles truffière in Deloraine in 1999. “Dad has always been an innovator,” says their son Henry Terry, who has become the popular face of the homegrown industry on TV show My Kitchen Rules, alongside sister Anna. “It was the challenge of achieving something many said couldn’t be done.” Truffles have since become a lucrative niche industry. “There is

Winter for me is inextricably linked with truffles nothing quite like truffle and that makes it quite special,” Henry says. “It is also very difficult to grow and can be just as hard to find, making them very rare.” Henry’s favourite dish to showcase his wares is truffle ice cream: “Truffle and dairy go so

well together. Bringing truffle into desserts isn’t very traditional but it just works.” Although the industry started down south, it was Western Australia that put Aussie truffles on the map – the fertile Manjimup region of the Southern Forests produces 80 per cent of the nation’s crop. This food bowl is on show for a weekend during the annual Truffle Kerfuffle (22-24 June). “Winter for me is inextricably linked with truffles,” says festival director Max Brearley, who has seen interest in the festival explode. “It’s grown so much in the last few years, and continues to get interest from far and wide. I’ve given a local ABC radio interview in the pitch black of a Manjimup morning, then a Sunrise weather cross to the nation, followed by an

interview with a Russian news crew.” The short season and challenge of growing and harvesting truffles is part of the appeal, and there’s no better way to understand this than by joining a hunt. “I’ve lost count of how many truffle hunts I’ve been on, but they’re all special,” says Max. “My overriding memory is of morning in the Southern Forests, the canopy topped with mist, then witnessing the care both the handler and dog took … seeing them work is a part of understanding the world of truffles.” It’s a sentiment Nigel Wood echoes: “The bond between hound and hunter is unbreakable. It’s another critical partnership, just like the truffle and its host tree.” Back on Nigel’s land, truffle hound Henry and his handler have been busy – we pull five more nuggets from the soil. Later, in front of a glowing stove, we balance plates on our laps and feast on gooey truffle-spiked brie and truffled scrambled eggs. It’s a simple meal, but it tastes like a million dollars. trufflemelbourne.com tastruffles.com.au trufflekerfuffle.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY TASMANIAN TRUFFLES, JESSICA WYLD

Can I keep this?

CLOCKWISE: Henry and Anna Terry with truffle hound Doug, handling the goods at Truffle Kerfuffle, WA delicacies at Truffle Kerfuffle.

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Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

MELBOURNE

Geelong

24 GEELONG HOURS IN

As it transitions from industrial hub to hip, Victoria’s second city is emerging from behind Melbourne’s shadow WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

PHOTOGRAPHY SHANNYN HIGGINS PHOTOGRAPHY, ALLIRA POTTER, THE FEDERAL, BOOM GALLERY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The new Provenance Wines cellar door at The Mill, breakfast at King of the Castle, the stylish setting of The Federal, Boom Gallery.

BREAKFAST

MID-MORNING

King of the Castle From the airy warehouse setting dripping with greenery to the cold-brew coffee and matcha lattes, if you were looking for a sign that Geelong has turned a new leaf, look no further than this popular café in Geelong West. Start your day with a breakfast bowl piled with a kaleidoscope of super foods, or decadent twice-cooked French toast topped with mascarpone. kingofthecastlecafe.com.au

Boom Gallery Inhabiting yet another reincarnated warehouse space (a common theme in Geelong), Boom is a creative hub for emerging and established artists. The space in Newtown’s art precinct of Rutland Street houses a gallery, design store and café called Neighbour Geelong. Duck across the road to watch artists in residence at work in their studios, and pick up a piece of Geelong’s budding creative scene direct from the maker. boomgallery.com.au

LUNCH The Federal Carrying on the legacy of their restaurateur parents, siblings Nathalie, Carlo and Marc Moussi have established an all-day eatery in the lofty new iteration of The Federal Woollen Mills in North Geelong. The kitchen’s renditions of classic Lebanese dishes such as lamb shawarma and falafel are the standout. Before leaving, indulge in a spot of bargain hunting in the cavernous Geelong Vintage Markets across the car park. thefederalgeelong.com.au

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

AFTERNOON

CLOCKWISE: Little Creatures Brewery, Devlin Apartments, tasting the goods at White Rabbit, Provenance Wines.

watch the next vintage in the making in the adjoining winery

Brews and bites

DINNER

SLEEP

White Rabbit Barrel Hall The Geelong home of Little Creatures and White Rabbit is a must-do for beer lovers. Inside the sprawling red-brick textile mill on Swanston Street, White Rabbit brewery stays true to its craft roots with a barrel-ageing program and rotating selection of brews. Taste through the taps, matched with a meal of mezzestyle share plates and salumi. For Good Beer Week (11-20 May) the complex will host the Little Creatures West Side Village. whiterabbitbeer.com.au

Devlin Apartments Soak up Geelong’s balancing act of old and new from between the sheets, courtesy of the Devlin – the apartments are set within the sensitively restored, heritagelisted Gordon Junior Technical School on Moorabool Street. The Manhattan-style ‘New Yorker’ suites feature high, arched windows and rich textiles in charcoal tones. Bonus for sports fans – it’s a mere two-minute walk to the Geelong Cats’ homeground in Kardinia Park. devlinapartments.com.au

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PHOTOGRAPHY GREG COLLINS, WHITE RABBIT, SHANNYN HIGGINS PHOTOGRAPHY

Provenance Wines With views over the rushing Barwon River, local boutique winery Provenance has just opened its new cellar door in the neglected Barwon Paper Mill in Fyansford. A symbol of Geelong’s proud industrial heritage, the grand bluestone mill was the largest in the Southern Hemisphere when it opened in the 1870s. Winemaker Scott Ireland hopes to share some of the winemaking craft with the public through The Mill. Taste his award-winning wines surrounded by barrels in the maturation cellar, and watch the next vintage in the making in the adjoining winery. provenancewines.com.au

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Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

The spa seer FROM A SINGLE SPA IN VICTORIA, MELANIE GLEESON HAS HELPED GROW AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST NETWORK OF DAY SPAS What’s the story behind endota?

Meet Melanie

What awaits guests at an endota spa? Women need a place to go that offers them a haven of escape, reflection and support – a place where they can even out the balance in their otherwise hectic lives. Our spas offer the opportunity for women to enter a space where, just for a few moments in time, it is all about them. The haven of an endota spa allows women to get back in touch with what they need, forgetting for a short while about what everybody else needs.

It’s so much more than just a massage or facial What is the value of a day at the spa? We’re so busy – now more than ever – that taking time out, to disconnect and reconnect, is an essential part of personal wellbeing. It’s so much more than just a massage or facial; our experience nurtures and helps our clients to live the best version of themselves.

Your team is made up of 95 per cent women. Is this an important part of the business? I was raised by a strong family and community who instilled a confidence that I could do anything I put my mind to. I never saw gender as an issue. In fact, I think the values personified by women are so important in business.

While there weren’t a lot of female CEOs in the early years of endota spa, I saw this as an advantage. I wasn’t afraid to challenge the norm and establish a nurturing and encouraging workplace culture. I think this has created a team of people who feel a connection to the brand. A lot of the team who work here today started at the beginning of our journey. endotaspa.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY ENDOTA, BEAUTYDIRECTORY.COM.AU

When I was working at a Melbourne day spa in my early 20s, I saw the benefits of visiting a spa first hand. People would arrive stressed, with their shoulders raised. Then, after their treatment, they would leave an entirely different person. You could see the physical and emotional change. That was so powerful. The endota spa story began in 2000 when a school friend and I were brave enough to take a risk and follow a dream. Leaving behind the security of full-time jobs and brainstorming in my home kitchen, we developed a modest business plan.

Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

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Yum!

Sunny GET A TASTE FOR THE THE SUNSHINE COAST COURTESY OF FRESH TALENT SUM YUNG GUYS WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

Sum Yung Guysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; aromatic duck curry (top), a spicy green papaya salad (right) and salmon coconut, ginger and turmeric curry (left),

Experience I RECIPE

PHOTOGRAPHY SUM YUNG GUYS

hings are looking bright for Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Long beloved for its dreamlike beaches and bucolic hinterland, Noosa and its surrounds have also become serious culinary contenders, with chefs combining enviable local produce with a barefoot nonchalance. One of the region’s most exciting newcomers is Sum Yung Guys in south Noosa suburb Sunshine Beach. Headed by MasterChef alumni Matt Sinclair and friends Jeremiah Jones, Michael ‘Moe’ Rickard and Dylan Campbell, Sum Yung Guys offers share-friendly plates with a strong Thai influence, inspired by the quartet’s extensive travels through Asia. “For us, South East Asian cuisine is incredibly versatile and evocative,” says Matt. “Considering Noosa is tropical, introducing this style was such a great fit in our eyes.” The locale also gives the chefs access to climate-appropriate produce. “Exotic and tropical ingredients are a phone call away thanks to our amazing suppliers. If they don’t have it on hand they track it down,” Matt says. While central Noosa might rely heavily on the tourist dollar, ventures in areas such as Sunshine Beach need local support.

“Sunshine Beach has a fierce local contingent, and we knew that longevity in this game, in this region, requires building a solid rapport with locals,” says Matt. Dylan and Jeremiah both hailing from Noosa has helped, as has Moe and Matt’s near decade-long stints in local venues. “We definitely had a great crew behind us who were excited to see the young lads have a crack,” says Matt. “We knew our greatest task was to produce food, drinks and service to a standard and a price point that would continue to bring [locals] back to our establishment.” The instant and ongoing popularity of Sum Yung Guys since its opening in June of last year testifies to their success. This month, Sum Yung Guys will represent the coast when they host a sold-out event with fellow young guns and Melbourne chefs Victor Liong of Lee Ho Fook and Nick Stanton of Ramblr, as part of the Noosa Food & Wine Festival. “We are absolutely pumped to have Nick and Victor coming on board with us – any opportunity to share the kitchen with this calibre of chefs is amazing,” Matt says. Sum Yung Guys is at Shop 8, 46 Duke Street, Sunshine Beach, sumyungguys.com.au Noosa Food & Wine Festival runs from 17-20 May, noosafoodandwine.com.au

INGREDIENTS RED CURRY PASTE

Sum Yung Guys aromatic red curry with confit duck METHOD To make the paste, place all ingredients into a blender and blitz in a fine paste. If there’s difficulty blitzing, drizzle in oil until the paste is moving freely. To confit the duck legs, place them snugly in a deep baking tray, cover with melted duck fat and seal tightly with aluminium foil. Bake in the oven at 160°C for around three hours. The legs are ready when the flesh has cleanly pulled away from the heel. Remove from the duck fat and rest on a cooling rack. For the curry sauce, place oil in a wok, or deep frying pan, over a high heat. Once hot, fry off the paste, constantly stirring to cook evenly and avoid sticking – for approximately 6-8 minutes, or until the paste is a rich red colour and you can smell the mixture caramelising. Add sugar and fish sauce, cook until sugar has dissolved and slightly caramelised. Follow with the stock, coconut cream and tamarind water and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer for 15-20 minutes. Check seasoning – you want it to be hot, sour, salty and sweet (remembering the flavour will be muted when combined with the duck and rice, so push it further). If needed, adjust with fish sauce, sugar or more tamarind. Add baby corn and snake beans to warm through.

• 2 shallots, sliced • 8 cloves garlic • 4 bird’s eye chillies • 5cm piece of ginger, sliced • 5cm piece of galangal, sliced • 2 lemongrass stalks, sliced • 3 kaffir lime leaves, sliced • 1 bunch coriander root • 8 long red dried chillies, soaked • 1 tbsp ground cumin • 2 tbsp shrimp paste • 1 tsp white pepper

DUCK CURRY • 4 duck maryland fillets • Jar of duck fat • ½ cup canola oil • ½ cup red curry paste • 100g palm sugar (raw or brown will also work) • 1/3 cup fish sauce • 500ml duck stock (or substitute chicken stock) • 400ml coconut cream • 100ml tamarind water (or less if using pulp) • 1 punnet baby corn • 3 snake beans, cut into 2.5cm batons • 2 kaffir lime leaves • Coriander and Thai basil, to garnish • 2 limes, cut into wedges To serve the duck, heat ¼ cup of duck fat in a large frying pan, season the skin with salt and place legs skin-side down until golden and crispy. Place the curry sauce in the base of serving dish, arranging the crispy duck legs on top. Garnish with shredded kaffir leaves, coriander and Thai basil. Serve with lime wedges.

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

SPRING TO LIFE Treat yourself by indulging in hot spring bathing and spa treatments on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula WORDS LUCY SIEBERT

PHOTOGRAPHY MORNINGTON PENINSULA HOT SPRINGS

salty breeze is gently blowing off the bay; the morning sun glints off the waves. I’m on my way to indulge in a relaxing Sunday at the Peninsula Hot Springs, which is tucked in the hills just behind Rye on Victoria’s popular Mornington Peninsula. But instead of the hour-plus drive southbound on the freeway from Melbourne, I’ve opted to take the scenic route there: a ferry trip from Queenscliff, on the Bellarine Peninsula, to Sorrento, on the Mornington Peninsula. As we cruise along, two boys break the morning

quiet with excited yells – they’ve spotted two dolphins surfing alongside us. Soon, the dolphins are joined by the rest of their pod, who twist and turn, showing off for their delighted audience of early morning sailors. The chance to see these stunning creatures romping in the waves confirms my decision to swap the freeway for the ferry. In less than 45 minutes we’ve docked at Sorrento and I’m driving off, making it a convenient and fun way to travel from Geelong to the Mornington Peninsula. It’s the ideal start to what turns out to be a

FROM TOP: Family time in the barrel pool, a private bathing pavilion.

It’s a wonderful way to connect with nature

blissful day of pampering. On arrival at the Peninsula Hot Springs’ Spa Dreaming Centre, I’m greeted by friendly staff and handed a fluffy gown and towel. Next stop is bathing in the Spa Dreaming Centre, which

Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

On cloud nine

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Zen out in the Spa Dreaming Centre, breakfast in the café, pull up a pew in a hanging chair.

Spa notes offers more privacy than the larger adjoining Bath House. For the ultimate experience, you can opt for private bathing. The natural thermal hot springs, which are set among native greenery, are a wonderful way to connect with nature. I hop from hot pool to hot pool and take the plunge in the refreshing cold-water pool. I also enjoy simply hanging out in the swinging ‘egg’ chairs and rocking gently in the hammocks under a ceiling of native trees. After 90 minutes of bathing bliss, I’m swept off to the Arabian Marquee for a rebalance treatment – a 60-minute full body massage and a 30-minute facial. The therapist starts by floating different natural oils past my nose – I connect with the relaxing

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scent of the Synthesis Organics range, which is made in Byron Bay. By the time my therapist is done, my tired muscles and dehydrated skin feel entirely revived. All that pampering is hungry work – good thing my next stop is the Spa Dreaming Centre Café. I tuck into a fresh Rejuvenator juice (pineapple, orange and watermelon) and sample

a platter of chickpea, quinoa and asparagus fritters, Korean salad and seared kangaroo fillet. By the time I’m done, I’m completely revived for the drive back to Melbourne. The next day a friend remarks on how “fresh” I look. After a blissful experience like that, who wouldn’t? peninsulahotsprings.com searoad.com.au

All that pampering is hungry work Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY MORNINGTON PENINSULA HOT SPRINGS

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

The inventors In collaboration with Vivid Sydney, the Good Design Festival returns this year with the 60th annual Good Design Awards WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

CHAIR OF THE AWARDS, and CEO of Good Design Australia, Dr Brandon Gien (inset) is an authority in clever design.

What do the judges look for? Good design – does the project do what it was designed to do? Innovation – how innovative is the project and does it have any world-first features? Impact – what impact will it have on our quality of life and our world? How does a clever idea become reality? I often say coming up with ideas is the easy bit. Turning that idea into a commercially successful product or service is

Good design and empathy go hand in hand the really difficult bit ... and that’s where good design comes in. Designers understand the end users, the market parameters, manufacturing, materials and technology, and bake all of this into the idea to turn it into something consumers and end users will want to buy. Without good design, it will be just another clever idea that goes nowhere.

The record 530 entries in the 2018 Good Design Awards range from groundbreaking technological innovations to small everyday items. What unifies them? They all solve a problem or a user need. Whether it be something simple like boiling water just that tiny bit faster to make a cup of tea in the morning, or a cochlear ear implant to

help someone hear, they all centre around solving a problem or an un-met need. What’s your favourite invention of the last 60 Good Design Awards? It has to be the pedestrian push button that sits on almost every street corner across Australia. Humble in its design, it has stood the test of time and helps thousands of people every day without them even paying much attention to it. good-design.org Vivid runs from 25 May to 16 June, vividsydney.com

PHOTOGRAPHY GOOD DESIGN AWARDS, VIVID SYDNEY

What encapsulates good design? Empathy. Good design and empathy go hand in hand. You know something has been well designed the second you experience it. That’s because the designers have dived into the shoes of the end user and understood their needs at the deepest level. That tiny bit of joy that a welldesigned product, service, space or experience gives you is no accident – it has been meticulously thought of at every level.

Ideas man

Experience I WORK & PLAY

From idea to invention THREE CLEVER IDEAS COME TO LIFE 1. SEALPOD For many, pod coffee is a little miracle that delivers espresso at the press of a button. It is, however, wasteful – in Australia alone, an estimated three million aluminium pods are sent to landfill every day. Enter SealPod, Nespresso®-compatible, stainless steel capsules that can be endlessly refilled with the ground coffee of your choice, offering value for money, sustainability and caffeination all in one diminutive pod. sealpod.com.au

Australian invention the Orbitkey organiser claimed gold at this year’s iF Design Awards in Munich. Co-founder Rex Kuo shares his tips for bringing a product to life.

1. Research the market.

2 3. FRESHPAPER The UN estimates that nearly a third of all food produced for human consumption is wasted – more than one billion tonnes each year. FreshPaper’s inventor adapted a family remedy into a natural preservative, incorporated into recyclable, biodegradable and compostable sheets. Placed in a fruit bowl, fridge drawer or container of produce, FreshPaper is designed to keep food fresh and out of the bin for up to four times longer. freshpaper.com.au

2. BEMPU Neonatal hypothermia endangers billions of newborn babies globally, especially in developing countries. Providing peace of mind for parents once they’re home from the hospital, Bempu is a small, cost-effective plastic bracelet that monitors a baby’s body temperature – sounding an alarm to warn of the risk of hypothermia. So far, Bempu has helped watch over some 10,000 bubs from 26 countries. bempu.com

“The best inventions solve everyday problems, so make sure to research what other solutions are already available. Ask yourself two questions – where does your product sit in the market, and are there any added values for the user?”

2. Don’t be afraid to share. “Start by sharing your invention with family and friends – get their feedback. Get opinions from strangers and conduct a survey. Remember, not everyone is out to steal your idea.”

3. Find reliable partners. “Quality is key. Before you rush into production, choose your manufacturers carefully, and calculate all costs.”

4. Try crowdfunding. “Crowdfunding is a great way to get your product off the ground, raise the initial funding and test demand for your invention. This will all go toward developing a community of early adopters and supporters.”

5. Shout it from the rooftop!

“Inventing a great product is only the first part; you’ll need to market the idea. Start a Facebook page or website. Take beautiful photos and videos ... The goal is to get everyone excited about your idea too.” orbitkey.com

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Explore I INTERVIEW

Get in on the secret

Turn to page 104 to discover why the tropical Vietnamese island of Phú Quôc should be top of your travel wishlist.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

ADELAIDE I BALI I NEWCASTLE I AND MORE

A portrait of the people A friendship between Melbournebased artist Adnate and the local Aboriginal Barengi Gadjin community helped to spark the concept behind this artwork. Artist Adnate Town Sheep Hills, VIC

photography NICOLE REED

Buried deep in Victoria’s hinterland lies an open-air gallery that’s brought urban art to the outback

Going against the grain

VICTORIA I YARRIAMBIACK

In safe hands This painting depicts a local couple whose families have lived and farmed in the area for four generations. Artist Rone Town Lascelles, VIC

Monochrome magic The work of a Russian mural artist, this monochromatic piece aims to portray rural youth culture. Artist Julia Volchkova Town Rupanyup, VIC

Farming focus The first of the Yarriambiack Shireâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s six silo artworks, this life-like portrait of four local farmers took three weeks to finish, with the artist using spray paint and acrylic house paint. Artist Guido van Helten Town Brim, VIC

Explore I SILO ART

A change of art How a clutch of small Victorian wheat-belt towns became big news, thanks to one public art project WORDS CHLOE CANN

A mural of a local farmer in Patchewollock, by Fintan Magee. RIGHT: Kaff-eine’s Rosebery artwork.

Painting on a 30-metre high canvas is pretty amazing did it for cost.” Some locals were also initially hesitant, but those harbouring doubts changed their minds once they saw the ideas, says Shaun. One facet of the venture that didn’t present any problems was attracting artists. “It certainly wasn’t hard to convince them to be a part of the project,” Shaun says. “Painting on a 30-metre high canvas is pretty amazing, and they love things that are a bit unique. The only brief the artists received was to represent the communities in a really honest way.” Decorating such colossal

concrete canvases did, however, involve gruelling work. “Some people said ‘I’m gonna knock this out in two weeks’,” says Shaun. “They had no idea how challenging it is. It takes about a month, working straight for up to 12 hours a day to complete one silo.” Street artist Guido van Helten would start work at 5am, break at midday, and continue through the afternoon until 8pm to avoid the unrelenting summer sun. Melbourne artist Kaff-eine suffered from vertigo while painting a silo the equivalent of almost 10 storeys high.

“She was very, very scared of heights, and brought friends with her in the [boom lift] bucket the whole time,” Shaun notes. Today the Silo Art Trail includes six silos and stretches over 200km, making it Australia’s largest outdoor gallery. “People are travelling thousands of kilometres just to be there,” says Shaun. While the national attention has been heartening, it’s the local impact that is the real triumph. “We knew it was going to be something special, but we couldn’t have predicted the impact it would have,” Shaun says. “It’s a lifeline.”

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PHOTOGRAPHY NICOLE REED

he Shire of Yarriambiack, population 7000, hasn’t historically garnered much attention. Located in Victoria’s northwest, it’s a region founded on farming, with few famous features. But in 2016 Yarriambiack’s fortunes began to change. Some 360km away in Melbourne, Shaun Hossack – founder and director of Juddy Roller, an agency that curates street art projects – had an idea. Instead of painting onto city walls, Shaun set his sights on something bigger, and “unmistakably Australian”; transforming decommissioned grain silos into works of art. One phone call with Australian grain storage company GrainCorp was all it took to find the right spot, in Victoria’s so-called ‘Wild West’. “This particular region is struggling with droughts and population decline,” Shaun explains. “The locals felt silos were an eyesore and not good for tourism, and they were trying to get funding for a garden in front of them.” Although interests conveniently aligned, challenges still arose. “We had bugger-all money,” Shaun says. “It was a lowbudget, DIY project. We

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DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

ADELAIDE

Contents

South Australia

60 I EAT STREETS The South Australian capital shows off its gastronomic chops

69 I WILD EYRE The spectacular seafood and scenery of the Eyre Peninsula

76 I A CITY ICON

PHOTOGRAPHY SEASALT

The faces behind the stalls at the Adelaide Central Markets

SeaSalt in Adelaideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastal suburb Henley Beach.

ADELAIDE WITH SMALL TOWN, BIG APPETITE. ADELAIDEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DINING SCENE KEEPS GETTING BETTER WORDS JO MCKAY

SOUTH AUSTRALIA I ADELAIDE

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Adelaide

It started gradually at the beginning of the decade, with just a few small bars and a smattering of interesting eateries. By 2013, following new smallbar legislation, Adelaide had a growing cluster of noteworthy eating and drinking venues. Now, five years on, the gastronomic transformation is in full swing and dining in the South Australia capital is cool, contemporary and diverse. There’s a convivial vibe that permeates the city – and from beachside locales to inner-city hives, there are multiple neighbourhoods to explore.

Now that’s a sandwich

PHOTOGRAPHY RYAN NOREIKS

WEST SIDE STORY The West End was ground zero in Adelaide’s epicurean reinvigoration, and it’s where much of the magic continues. Plus, if you want nightlife, this is where you’ll find it. PEEL STREET 9 Peel Street Unpretentious décor, energetic service and fresh Asian and Middle Eastern-inspired fare, Peel Street is an all-round winner. The ever-changing menu is written on an oversized blackboard hanging on the wall. peelst.com.au PRESS FOOD & WINE 40 Waymouth Street A little removed from the laneway fracas is Press, which has been one of city’s best eateries since 2011. The focus is on local and seasonal produce;

be tempted by woodfired steaks, excellent offal or the signature blue swimmer crab pappardelle. pressfoodandwine.com.au SHOBOSHO 17 Leigh Street Chef Adam Liston is on fire at this Japanese-style hotspot, which opened last year. His kitchen boasts a woodfired oven, yakitori pit, rotisserie and woodfired grill, so expect a menu that plays with delectable smoky flavours. shobosho.com.au SUNNY’S PIZZA 17 Solomon Street Earmark this hipster hangout as your rollicking late-night venue. Indulge in modern cocktails, natural wines and a menu split in two: Pizza and Not Pizza. sunnys.pizza UDABERRI PINTXOS Y VINO 11-13 Leigh Street First impressions are of a drinking den (albeit, a cool one). But look closer and you’ll discover tapas such as mushrooms with oozy egg yolk, croquettas with bacon and chèvre (goat’s milk cheese) and a seafood stew, which make this a smart place to settle. udaberri.com.au ALSO NEARBY: The precinct around Gouger and Grote Streets is also considered part of the West End; taste vibrant Thai street food at Lantern By Nu (10 Selby Street) and some of the city’s best ramen at Ramen & Izakaya Himeji (22-24 Grote Street). Adelaide Central Market (44-60 Gouger Street) — a must for foodies — is here, too.

Explore I ADELAIDE

Lettuce begin to eat

EAST YOUR HEART OUT

The upbeat air and bold South East Asian flavours are an appealing combination HEY JUPITER 11 Ebenezer Place This authentic Gallic brasserie boasts a zinc bar, banquette seating and Parisian terrace furniture. Expect classics such as escargots (snails) and steak-frites at lunch and dinner. At breakfast, it’s hard to go past the croque-madame (a ham and cheese sandwich topped with béchamel and an egg). heyjupiter.com.au ALSO NEARBY: Modern Italian at Andre’s Cucina & Polenta Bar (94 Frome Street); tantalising South East Asian cuisine at newcomer Bai Long Store (80 Hutt Street); and casual-yet-inspired Japanese at Nagomi (Shop 5, 242 Hutt Street).

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Lettuce cups and cocktails at Golden Boy, Africola’s Duncan Welgemoed, NOLA’s interior, Hey Jupiter.

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDRE CASTELLUCCI, HEY JUPITER, GOLDEN BOY, NOLA

From casual fare to a fine dining masterpiece, the East End has serious culinary cred. AFRICOLA 4 East Terrace What to order at Duncan Welgemoed’s lively, Africaninspired eatery? Maybe crispy eggplant, or sardines with fried capers, or the wonderfully named boom boom! hummus with spiced lamb. The tea sandwich (crispy chicken skin encased in white bread), however, is compulsory. Trust us. africola.com.au ORANA Upper level, 285 Rundle Street Inventive, daring, exciting — this 18-plus course degustation, which showcases native ingredients, is highly sought after. The dining room seats no more than 20, so book in advance. restaurantorana.com GOLDEN BOY 309 North Terrace The upbeat air and bold South East Asian flavours are an appealing combination at Golden Boy. Let staff guide you through the vast array, or simply order the generous ‘tuk tuk’ sharing menu. golden-boy.com.au NOLA 28 Vardon Avenue Fried chicken with waffles, jambalaya, cornbread … it’s all mouth-wateringly good at this New Orleans-inspired bar and diner. Behind the bar, craft beer and whiskies will help wet the whistle. nolaadelaide.com

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Explore I ADELAIDE

NORTH OF THE RIVER

Tempting tacos

The views here – over the seemingly endless Gulf St Vincent – reign supreme TOP TO BOTTOM: The outlook at SeaSalt, Beach Bum’s fusion fare, pizzas are a calling card at Melt.

SAND AND SURF

Henley Beach is quickly becoming the coolest of the beachside ’burbs thanks to a spate of new openings. True to the breezy location, laidback dining is the name of the game. MELT 269 Seaview Road Adelaide’s third Melt boasts a bright, airy décor, and a menu of tasty pizzas and tapas. The views here — over the seemingly endless Gulf St Vincent — reign supreme. meltpizzeria.com.au SEASALT FISH AND CHIPPER 269 Seaview Road Just a ‘fish and chipper’? Hardly. From the crisp yellow and white striped umbrellas outside, to a menu featuring spicedusted sardines, ocean trout tartare and excellent fish and chips, SeaSalt is a standout. seasaltfishandchipper. com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY JACQUI WAY, BEACH BUM, SEASALT

An assortment of cuisines can be found in leafy North Adelaide, barely a hop, skip and jump from town. RUBY RED FLAMINGO 142 Tynte Street Flavour-filled Italian teamed with a social vibe? Yes please. You’ll probably have to queue for a table at Ruby Red Flamingo — just go with the flow and sip a tangelo spritz while you wait. rubyredflamingo.com BEACH BUM 47 O’Connell Street Beach Bum might be low-key, but the Hawaiian/Japanesefusion food is top notch. This was the first place in Adelaide to offer poké bowls — they’re fab — but the tacos and fish and chips are equally delicious. beachbum.net.au TONY TOMATOES 155-157 O’Connell Street Tony Tomatoes is always bustling — probably because the service is sharp, there’s a strong edit of local and international wines, and sensational pizzas. Our favourite? The mushroomtopped Fun Guy. tonytomatoes.com.au GIN LONG CANTEEN 42 O’Connell Street This hawker-style Vietnamese hits all the right flavours: salty, sweet, sour, spicy and fresh. Pumping tunes and the large open kitchen make it an entertaining place to be. ginlongcanteen.com.au ALSO NEARBY: Zesty Mexican at Lucky Lupitas (Shop 1/163 O’Connell Street); skewer heaven at Yakitori Takumi (60/55 Melbourne Street); and reliable French at Cliché Exhibition (26 O’Connell Street).

Explore I ADELAIDE

Stirred, not shaken

ACACIA 3/269 Seaview Road The sleek fit-out would be at home in the inner-city suburbs of the eastern states, but here it is at beachy Henley. The excellent coffee is from local roaster Dawn Patrol and the food is simple yet sophisticated. acacia.place ALSO NEARBY: Enjoy sundowners at buzzy Bacchus Bar (253 The Esplanade), chic all-day dining at Malobo (257 Seaview Road), or – in the same Henley Square Development – Cuban-inspired sandwiches at Hermanos Cubanos (257 Seaview Road).

A FINE PROSPECT This thriving strip in Prospect – north of the city centre – is host to boutiques, florists, bakeries and great eateries. NEW NORDIC 98 Prospect Road Amid Scandi-inspired interiors (blonde wood, neutral hues, lots of light), tuck into pan-baked Swedish gnocchi, gravlax (cured raw salmon) and a baked veal and pancetta loaf. Service is swift and the atmosphere friendly. newnordic.kitchen ROSEMONT HALL 106 Prospect Road This three-in-one destination in a restored Art Deco building is home to edgy bar and café, Rosemont Hall, canteen-style Sunnys Shop, which turns out fast and fabulous pan-Asian, and Mr Chan, an east meets Wild West take on Chinese. rosemonthall.com.au ANCHOVY BANDIT 94-98 Prospect Road This Neapolitan pizza joint is the latest addition to

the strip. Come for the excellent pizzas, homemade sourdough and salumi boards with house-pickled veg. Awesome cocktails, too. anchovybandit.com ALSO NEARBY: Tasty Greek at Meze Mazi (86B Prospect Road); decadent desserts at 50SixOne (6/98 Prospect Road); and a live-music drinking den, Wassail Wine Bar (95 Prospect Road).

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Cocktails at Anchovy Bandit, a sophisticated spread at Acacia, hotcakes at Malobo.

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PHOTOGRAPHY ANCHOVY BANDIT, ACACIA, MALOBO

WORLD ANIMAL PROTECTION

Five wildlife attractions to avoid and why Many travellers visit wildlife attractions because they love animals, not realising these elephants, tigers and other wild animals are often exploited and abused. A good ground rule is if you can ride or hug, have a selfie or see a wild animal perform tricks, you can be sure it is cruel. Here are five of the cruellest attractions to avoid and why;

Elephant rides and shows Elephants used for rides and shows suffer through a torturous training process to make them accept human interaction. They are often kept chained and controlled with sharp metal hooks.

Visit one of the national parks in Sri Lanka home to the highest density of wild Asian elephants.

Holding sea turtles In Bali, tourists can pose for photos holding sea turtles. These naturally timid creatures experience great stress when handled, which can weaken their immune systems. Tourists may also accidentally drop struggling turtles, causing potentially fatal injuries. Six of the world’s seven species of sea turtle call the Great Barrier Reef home.

Performing dolphins Captive dolphins are confined in shallow, sometimes chlorinated pools where they suffer painful skin and eye irritations, sunburn and stress-related illnesses. Instead, see large pods of dolphins swimming freely near the lighthouse at Byron Bay, Australia.

Civet coffee Popular in Bali, Kopi Luwak is the world’s most expensive coffee. Plantations keep civets in crowded cages and overfeed them. They end up severely stressed and malnourished. Grab a cup of cruelty free coffee at cafes like Peloton Supershop in Bali.

Tiger selfies Tigers are taken from their mothers as babies, chained or kept in small cages with concrete floors to be used as photo props by tourists for hours on end. See tigers in their natural habitat in Ranthambore National Park in India, part of a national conservation initiative.

WORLD ANIMAL PROTECTION

World Animal Protection recommends seeing wild animals in the wild – where they belong. Visit www.worldanimalprotection.org.au for more tips to be an animal friendly traveller.

Explore I EYRE PENINSULA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Eye on Eyre

Eyre Peninsula

THE RUGGED BEAUTY OF THE EYRE PENINSULA ATTRACTS ADVENTURERS AND FOODIES ALIKE WORDS BELINDA LUKSIC

PHOTOGRAPHY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

Sandy feet

I 70

t’s no coincidence that the Eyre Peninsula looks like a shark tooth, jutting into the South Australian seas. These are deep, wild waters presided over by great white sharks. The Australian horror film The Reef was shot on location in the Spencer Gulf, and it’s to these shark-filled waters, three hours south of Port Lincoln, that Adventure Bay Charters takes people to cage dive with the giant fish. The eco-friendly dive operators use sonar (AC/DC is popular) in place of chum to attract sharks to a metal cage and viewing pod they submerge in the cold waters off the Neptune Islands. Home to Australia’s largest colony of fur seals, the area is a natural feeding ground for great whites. The chance to stare into the mouth of one of the world’s most feared stealth predators is a bucket-list experience not for the faint-hearted. Wearing the wetsuits provided, harnessed with a lead weight, and with your regulator firmly in place, up to six people at a time can climb down into the cage to wait, hearts in mouths, for the moment a great white materialises out of the blue.

PHOTOGRAPHY JEM CRESSWELL, GETTY IMAGES, THE LINE & LABEL

Explore I EYRE PENINSULA

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Fishing off the rocks, plates at The Line & Label, a shark and diver face off on an Adventure Bay Charter, curious sea lions, MFV Tacoma at her berth.

Marine adventures The Eyre Peninsula is about coastal experiences – stunning cliffs and endless beaches, deep-sea fishing and dramatic marine encounters. Some of the most bio-diverse waters in the world, here you can swim with giant cuttlefish, bottlenose dolphins and big tuna in giant feeding nets. Port Lincoln, the eastern tip of the tooth, is home to big fishing fleets and big cash. The local

bluefin tuna fishing industry has spawned more millionaires per capita than anywhere else in Australia, and a bronze statue of tuna king Tony Santic’s Melbourne Cup-winning mare, Makybe Diva, stands in town. It’s here you can join a 90-minute Tesla electric boat tour of the waterways of Lincoln Cove Marina, home to the biggest commercial fishing fleet in the Southern

Explore I EYRE PENINSULA

Hemisphere, and a place of record tuna sales and big tuna tales. Or, jump aboard the 1950s tuna clipper MFV Tacoma, and learn about traditional tuna polling. Twice a year, the boat departs on a deep-sea tuna adventure – for three- to six-day trips. Two hours from Port Lincoln is Hopkins Island, a protected wilderness area where you can swim with endangered Australian sea lions. It’s the ultimate high. These so-called puppies of the sea happily duck, dive, cavort and play with snorkellers in crystal-clear waters, occasionally pressing a curious nose to goggles or flippers before darting away.

Seafood frontier

Hello there

here you can swim with giant cuttlefish, bottlenose dolphins and big tuna

A trip to ‘the tooth’ is as much about marine adventures as it is about sustainable seafood. Oysters, abalone, prawns, rock lobster, tuna, kingfish and other fish thrive in an area that spans the Spencer Gulf to the east and the Great Australian Bight to the west. More than 65 per cent of Australia’s sustainable fishing catch is reeled in from these seas – and there are numerous restaurants and cafés along the coast that showcase the best of the peninsula’s seafood. Freshly minted The Line & Label looks like it’s been plucked from the pages of Country Life. Surrounded by the vineyards at Peter Teakle Wines, the elegant terrace restaurant has sweeping views of Boston Bay and a finedining menu that pairs local produce with inventive flavours. Port Lincoln has Del Giorno’s, a local favourite where steaming pots of local blue mussels are brought to table and the

Explore I EYRE PENINSULA

Eyre’s dramatic limestone cliffs. LEFT: Catch of the day at Port Lincoln’s Del Giorno’s.

Tastes like the ocean

Hit the road Eyre’s rugged coastline and unspoilt national parks are best explored by four-wheel drive. Unsealed roads lead to dramatic clifftop lookouts and empty surf beaches that stretch for miles. To the north is the Gawler Ranges National Park, a 1.5 billion-year-old landscape and a private sanctuary for more than 160 species of native wildlife. On a bushwalk here you could come upon a southern hairy-nosed wombat or rare yellow-footed rock wallaby. For eye-candy, Coffin Bay National Park is sublime.

Unsealed roads lead to dramatic clifftop lookouts and empty surf beaches Peppered with limestone cliffs, miles of white dunes and secluded beaches, it’s the place for fourwheel drive adventures, wild bushwalks, remote camping and five-star fishing. Pods of dolphins are regular visitors to the sheltered bays

of Lincoln National Park. This scrubby landscape is also a sanctuary for emus, western grey kangaroos and any number of snakes and reptiles. On the Stamford Hill Loop Hike, you can follow in the footsteps of explorer Matthew Flinders.

PHOTOGRAPHY BELINDA LUKSIC, GETTY IMAGES

kingfish ceviche is a taste sensation. Down the road at the Port Lincoln Hotel is Sarin’s Restaurant, a buzzy spot with good cocktails and an à la carte seafood menu brimming with sashimi and fresh flavours. It’s part of the Eyre Peninsula Seafood Trail, a journey that takes in the oyster farms of Coffin Bay in the west and the Murray cod farm of Whyalla in the east. Dotted along the way are marine tours, worldclass seafood, oyster sheds and cellar doors.

E S T. 1 9 9 9

@madeinearthofficial

Explore I EYRE PENINSULA

The scenic 5.7km walk – dotted with breathtaking views of the ocean, lonely bays and bush – is the path Flinders set out on in 1802, in search of fresh water after months at sea. Or, spend $30 on a day pass to Whalers Way. This 14km coastal drive, on a remote spit of private land, is filled with unrelenting beauty – natural crevasses and giant fissures, deep bays and chasms into which the sea powerfully surges back and forth. At Cape Carnot, you’ll also see some of the oldest rocks in South Australia, thought to be 2.6 billion years old.

Shell to table Coffin Bay Oysters are worldfamous – found in restaurants across Australia and the world. Pure Coffin Bay Oysters takes people on a punt to meet the oyster farmer, learn about oyster farming and how to shuck an oyster before tucking into a feast plucked straight from the sea. Closer to shore, you can don

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: In the water with Oyster Farm Tours, tasting the goods, the vivid blues of a rock pool on Cape Carnot.

Coffin Bay Oysters are world-famous – found in restaurants across Australia waders with Oyster Farm Tours and set out on foot through the waters to reach a pontoon in a working oyster lease, where a table is laid with a starched white linen cloth. Here you can learn how oysters grow, view baby oysters and

become a pro at shucking your own. It’s a unique dining experience, paired with local wine. Belinda Luksic was a guest of the South Australian Tourist Commission and Xplore Eyre.

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PHOTOGRAPHY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION, BELINDA LUKSIC, GETTY IMAGES

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SOUTH AUSTRALIA I ADELAIDE

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Adelaide

TO MARKET, TO MARKET Meet some of the passionate providores behind the Adelaide Central Markets INTERVIEWS LACHEAN HUMPHREYS, EMILY TATTI & KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

PHOTOGRAPHY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION, TOURISM AUSTRALIA

On the menu at Stall 11

IT’S BEEN NEARLY 150 years since a group of farmers gathered in pre-dawn light, between Gouger and Grote Street. On 23 January 1869, the first-ever market day took place, and the Adelaide Central Market has seen generations of passionate providores trade within its walls since. We talk to four of them about what makes the Central Market South Australia’s most-visited tourist attraction.

imported beers and wine, with a full breakfast and tapas menu. Our paella is really popular – we have a vegetarian option on Tuesdays. Then we have our bocadillos (sandwiches) for a grab-and-go, as well as coffee and cakes. What do you love about the market? I love the variety of the produce available. It’s definitely changed over the years. There’s a lot more on offer now – little popups, cafés, restaurants and bars. When’s the best time to visit the markets? The markets are busiest around events, such as Easter. Fishmongers, fruit and vegetable Chef Brad Sappenberghs is one vendors will all be extremely half of the husband and wife team busy with everyone organising behind Comida Catering Co at their fresh produce. Stall 11 in the Adelaide Central And the best time to visit Stall Market. Their tapas bar has 11? Breakfast, lunch or dinner? proven a perennial favourite All of the above – Tuesday with visitors and locals alike through Sunday we’re open for – especially when the duo’s breakfast and lunch. Friday is legendary paella is served. our night service, where from Tell us about Stall 11. 4 to 5pm we run happy hour and We’ve literally got 25 square a pintxos hour. Our pintxos are very similar to [the tapas] that metres in here. We’re fully you’d get in northern Spain. licensed, serving up local and

PAELLA AND PINTXOS

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IN THEIR SHOES

A FAMILY AFFAIR

Simon Bugeja’s family has run iconic deli Lucia’s Fine Foods for three generations, carrying on the legacy of his nonna Lucia Rosella. Shop 3 has been supplying marketgoers with cappuccinos, cakes and Lucia’s famous pasta sauce since 1957. What’s the history of Lucia’s? South Australians have the late Lucia Rosella to thank for introducing authentic southern Italian cuisine to their capital. Lucia learnt to cook from her mother in the farming village of Pago Veiano in Benevento in southern Italy. During WWII, Lucia’s husband Pasquale was sent to Victoria as a prisoner of war, and it was there that he fell in love with Australia and vowed to return. They emigrated to Adelaide in 1956 with their two daughters Nicci and Maria. A neighbour of Lucia and Pasquale’s who was enthralled by Lucia’s cooking encouraged her to cook on a commercial basis. This eventually prompted her to open Lucia’s Pizza and Spaghetti Bar, creating the legacy that continues today. How has the business changed over the years? When my nonna opened the business in 1957, the restaurant seated 12 people. It now seats more than 140. Lucia’s also has a beautiful food store next door to the original business, selling local and imported products,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Mark Gleeson (at back) leads a market tour, a coffee break at Shop 3, sweets at Lucia’s, everything from fresh bread to flowers is on show at the market.

If you’re a visitor to South Australia it’s absolutely got to be number one

and a food manufacturing facility that produces a pasta sauce over the summer months – when Australian tomatoes are their best. How much of your business is made up of regulars and tourists? The majority of our customers are regulars but we have a large amount of [Adelaide] expats who love to come back to Lucia’s when they are in Adelaide, and because of the central location we also see lots of visiting tourists.

PHOTOGRAPHY LUCIA’S FINE FOODS, SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

Mark Gleeson has owned gourmet food hub Providore at stall 66 for 26 years. One of the market’s most dedicated ambassadors, Mark runs popular small-group tours of the market and other Adelaide culinary gems through his company Food Tours Australia. What do you love most about the market? It sits at the centre of the food industry in South Australia, and that industry branches out into just about every home in Adelaide. It connects with so many people. In your time there, how much has the market changed? It’s been amazing watching the generations come and go. Since I arrived, the older customers who were the regulars have disappeared, but their children have become the marketgoers, and now their children. They keep following in their family’s footsteps. What can visitors expect from your tours? There are so many interesting people at the market, and they all have stories to tell. I talk to them about their produce, their lives and their businesses. Visitors can get access to people they might not normally meet. When is the best time to visit the market? I like the morning because you can start the day with a great coffee, a poached egg or a bit of fruit salad, and then do your shopping. If you’re a visitor to South Australia it’s absolutely got to be number one on your agenda. I’d go airport, taxi, market.

June 9-11 2018

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What are your earliest memories of the market? Watching my nonna make fresh pasta. What do you love about the Adelaide Central Markets? I love that every day of the year in the market is different. Depending on the season or the time of the month, loads of different and beautiful fresh produce arrives to be sold.

FOR THE LOVE OF CHEESE

Cheeses galore at the Smelly Cheese Shop. BELOW: Shop for bread and other tried-and-true cheese accompaniments at Stall 44.

The market is capable of ticking all your senses if you pay attention

Is the maturation room open to the public? Yes. Smelly Cheese really became a hub for cheese lovers, and we take pride in the fact that we are educators as well as cheesemongers. We do cheese classes, both public and private, and ‘Cheese After Dark’ twice a month at the market. We make sure people leave us with a greater understanding of the product. Why did you choose Adelaide Central Market? It’s quite romantic. When I came from France the second time in 2001 or 2002, I was looking for a nice Roquefort – a raw, blue, sheep’s milk cheese from France. I knew Peter [Heaney, owner of Say Cheese] and he showed me the blue cheese in question, and the rest is history! He is now my partner in life as well, and we have a child together. That’s the impact of the market. What do you love about the markets? It’s a fabulous hub for foodies of all kinds, and it’s so vibrant. The Adelaide Central Market

is capable of ticking all your senses if you pay attention. Can you name a favourite cheese? I need a cheese that stops me in my tracks, so I’ll go for a nice washed rind called Époisses de Bourgogne – it’s a cow’s milk cheese from Burgundy that’s been washed with local brandy, and it’s extraordinary. But, because it’s not enough to have that on its own, I also need a beautiful Comté that’s been matured in a cellar – it’s a dance in your mouth that lingers like there’s no tomorrow. Put a piece of Comté in your mouth, lay back, put a ‘do not disturb sign’ on the door, grab a nice slice of bread and that’s it.

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PHOTOGRAPHY THE SMELLY CHEESE SHOP

Normandy-born Valerie Henbest is co-owner of the Smelly Cheese Shop and Say Cheese – two of Adelaide’s favourites for gourmet fromage. As well as its ever-busy stall, the Smelly Cheese Shop offers classes at its nearby maturation rooms and regular ‘Cheese After Dark’ degustation evenings alongside South Australian winemakers. What’s the history of stall 44? It all started some 25-plus years ago. Smelly Cheese was really created by demand for finer – and harder to find – products. We also established a maturing room on Wright Street, not far from the markets. The maturing room helps us age and mature products so that we not only offer special cheeses, we also bring them at peak condition.

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Have tribe, will

Multi-generational trips are on the rise among families, as is taking friends along for the ride

ike many of us, my mental image of the perfect family holiday usually includes beaches, culture or beautiful bushland. But, until recently, I’d never considered adding a wheelbarrow to that list. Yet there I was, huffing and puffing my way up a steep dirt track on the edge of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park in Sydney, watching my two-year-old chatter happily from his position on top of a wheelbarrow full of bags. Even better: I wasn’t the one doing the pushing. That kudos went to a friend who, channelling his inner superhero, did laps with the wheelbarrow while I shared luggage-dragging duty with the other adults.

Our group of seven families and one brave single had booked the entire Pittwater YHA for three nights. I’d visited with the same girlfriends in our 20s, but today partners and kids were in tow – 25 of us in total. We’d divvied up the rooms and created a roster, which meant each family needed only to cook and wash up once, leaving the bulk of our time to be fed, wined and dined with some of our oldest friends. The wild success of our experiment was in part due to, not in spite of, the size of our tribe. The kids played endlessly; the adults had hours to socialise, relax or soak up the setting; and there was no pressing schedule other than deciding if we could be bothered heading back down

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

WORDS SUE WHITE

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A home away Renting a holiday house is popular among large groups of family or friends. Even researchers have noticed the shift. When University of Tasmania’s Dr Louise Grimmer ran a small pilot study on locals using Airbnb, she noticed a growing segment she labelled ‘socialisers’, which included friendship groups travelling together. It’s a good description of Kim Fitzpatrick. She recently spent a long weekend on the Sunshine Coast with not one but three other families as a ‘tester’ to see if they were all on the same page before heading off for a longer trip. Their Airbnb rental included eight adults, three toddlers and a preschooler. While it was a hit, and those longer trips are in the works, she learned a lot. “We had our own separate family times out of the house, and planned and cooked meals in advance to share the load. We looked out for each others’ kids, and then enjoyed a few drinks and board

CLOCKWISE: An Airbnb pad in Japan, Vivienne Pearson’s mob at the beach, on tour with Intrepid Travel.

services like Airbnb make it easier for multi-generational groups

games together when the kids were asleep,” she says. Kim suggests not skimping on spaces, and thinking about your travelling companions’ parenting style in advance. “[We found that] our group parents in a similar fashion [to one another], but it may put a strain on the group if, for example, one set uses gentle parenting and another a more authoritarian style,” she says. Louise acknowledges groups like Kim’s could easily have rented holiday houses together in the past but says services like Airbnb make it easier for multigenerational groups. “Research shows grandparents – and grandmothers in particular – do a lot of the travel planning for multigenerational holidays.” It’s an art Vivienne Pearson’s family has honed to perfection. Three generations of her family have holidayed together annually for so long she’s lost count. “My parents started it when we were teenagers,” she says. Fast-forward about 25 years and the experience continues to evolve.

PHOTOGRAPHY INTREPID, YHA, AIRBNB

the hill for a kayak. “The most relaxing trip we’ve had since our honeymoon,” one couple declared more than once. We’re not the only families to have thought of travelling with friends. Families have been camping together since someone figured out that ‘built-in playmates’ usually equals ‘relaxed parents’. But today’s families are upping the ante: they might rent a house together, book a campsite or head overseas for a milestone birthday. If friends aren’t available, the grandparents often are. Multigenerational trips are trending within the travel industry: according to a recent study by finder.com.au, one third of parents often take a member of the extended family on holiday.

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Travelling as a family gives grandparents invaluable experiences with their grand kids. BELOW: An Intrepid tour group at large in Vietnam.

86 “There were little kids and babies for a decade. Then we reached a delightful new stage where all the cousins were old enough to largely look after themselves. We’re back to a fabulous dynamic of resting, reading, playing card and board games, eating, and only the occasional trip away from the house,” she says. Vivienne’s crew usually aims for a rental with plenty of space, a pool and sometimes a tennis court. They take lots of games and ban

It’s the one time of year they all know they’ll see each other screen time to promote socialising at “Nanna Helen’s beach house” (even though the venue changes annually, the name doesn’t). “The kids now range from nine to 20 and they all love it. It’s the one time of year they all know they’ll see each other,” Vivienne says.

Touring with grandma Sometimes, it’s nice to have someone else do the organising, and multi-generational family travellers are no different. Dyan McKie from Intrepid Travel says the number of departures with three generations travelling together has doubled each year since 2013 (Thailand, Borneo and Vietnam are the most popular of their trips). Dyan believes there are lots of reasons behind the boom. “Grandparents are

having experiences with their grandchildren that they may not have been able to have with their own children. They’ve retired early, and have the time to do it,” she says. She’s also noticed multigenerational travel peaks when the kids hit late primary-school age. “Both the parents and grandparents realise that once kids get to high school, time goes fast,” Dyan says. It’s likely fitness plays a role too. World Expeditions CEO, Sue Badyari, believes today’s Baby Boomer grandparents are far less sedentary than their predecessors. “They love to walk, trek and swim … and want to share the physical, emotional and intellectual challenges with their grandchildren,” she says. While Rhi Stanley didn’t book a tour, she found hiring a driver in Ho Chi Minh City was perfect for her recent multi-generational trip to Vietnam, a destination she chose for its combination of culture, relaxation and affordability.

PHOTOGRAPHY VIVIENNE PEARSON, ALAMY, INTREPID

Go with Gran

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem. What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill. Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up. New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established. With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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Tips for travelling with the grandparents Be realistic. Are the grandparents coming on your trip the hands-off or hands-on types? If they’re not highly involved with the kids when visiting your house for a long weekend, it’s unlikely they’ll turn into Mary Poppins the minute you’re in a tropical locale.

Have the conversation. Group adventures can help old friends reconnect.

“A private driver helped us work around our toddler’s nap times. Plus, he took the grandparents to places like the floating markets while we explored the many local parks,” she says. Rhi planned these separate days in advance, but also scheduled in days alone with her dad while her husband stayed with their son. “I think that helped Dad feel like he wasn’t just there for the babysitting,” she says.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

Roadtripping Many parents enjoy a good road trip, but chances are that few would have taken it as far as Marina Nicholl. An Australian of South African descent, Marina recently took a month-long trip with two other families to explore her home continent. “They kept mentioning how much they’d like to visit Africa but didn’t want to do it by themselves … I spent hours planning because I wanted them to love it,” she says. Marina arranged a mix of apartments, Airbnb rentals and parks, and each family travelled

We did a lot together but having our own cars was perfect in their own car. “We did a lot together but having our own cars was perfect to regroup as a family between places or on daytrips when kids can get cranky and tired,” she says. The parents made a rule that kids couldn’t swap cars or rooms unless circumstances dictated, and the trip was so successful that they’re considering embarking on round two in 2019. As for my group? Despite that brutal hill, there have been repeated calls for a second trip. While this time my son should be old enough to walk the hill himself, I’ll still be keeping an eye out for the wheelbarrow – and my trusty friend. Journalist and travel writer Sue White is the founder of community Facebook group, Kids Who Travel.

What do grandma and grandpa expect from the trip? Are they imagining you’ll all be hanging out together 24/7? Or will they be doing their own thing and joining you on occasion?

Avoid meal-time traps. Let’s face it: meal times with kids can be tricky, let alone when you add in extra requirements and opinions. Talk through the reality in advance. Will you all eat together? If you are self-catering, who’ll do the cooking? Are you all on a similar dining budget? If so, is everyone happy to eat at a kid-friendly hour and location?

Sleep soundly. You know your kids best: are they still waking up crying during the night? Will their first move each morning be to race down the hall to play with Grandpa? If so, perhaps avoid interconnecting rooms to give the older generation a sound night’s sleep. Many rental houses have a self-contained flat out the back: these can be a great way to give everyone a little more privacy. When in doubt, opt for a bigger space.

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INDONESIA

Bali

A tale of

From the bustling boutiques, bars and beach clubs of the south coast to the serene beauty and chilled vibe of the east, there’s a Bali that’s right for you

two Balis

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY

WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

FROM TOP: Watching over Uluwatu Temple, the beach club at Wyndham Tamansari Jivva.

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f you’ve ever wanted to know what it feels like to be a celebrity, try arriving at Bali’s Ngurah Rai airport in Denpasar. As you emerge from customs, crowds start waving frantically, desperate for your attention. Momentarily confused, I look over my shoulder to see if someone famous has arrived, but no, this is the way everyone is greeted. Hotel touts, tour leaders and taxi drivers all vie energetically for their slice of the tourist dollar. It’s organised chaos and a familiar scene – the airport hustle South East Asia is famous for. Once you’re on the road there’s more – traffic jams and car horns, scooters whizzing past, and trucks negotiating tiny streets. While at roadside cafés – no more than a couple of plastic tables on the

pavement – locals calmly sip coffee as cars speed by. The main road heading to the island’s south coast can be noisy, busy and dirty, but there’s also the touch of warm air on your cheeks, the smell of tropical fruit and spices, bright blue skies and tall, gently waving palms, all promising so much more. Frequent visitors to Bali may lament its change from idyll to tourist haunt, but as a first-timer I have few preconceptions. Will I find the beach clubs, shopping and chic cafés and bars I’ve heard about, or will the island offer a laidback slice of paradise? I’m hoping for both.

In the heart of things Kuta doesn’t evoke the glamorous associations of its upmarket neighbours Seminyak or Uluwatu, but it’s a convenient

base. From here, the whole of the busy south coast is within fairly easy reach. North from Kuta is still-laidback Canggu, popular for surf lessons, and the upscale resorts and boutiques of nearby Seminyak, home to designer stores selling resort wear, handmade jewellery, leather bags and homewares. Some of

the island’s most soughtafter bars and restaurants – such as Kaum at the iconic Potato Head and ever-popular Motel Mexicola – are here too. On the island’s southwestern tip stand the rugged, rocky cliffs of Uluwatu, where exclusive resorts and easy-going beach bars dot the coastline. At El Kabron,

PHOTOGRAPHY SALLY MAY MILLS, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, EL KABRON CLUB, MOVIDA BALI

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a Spanish-themed club perched high on the bluff, the infinity pool looks out across the ocean and offers postcard views of surfers catching waves and the wide horizon. A cover charge gives you all-day access to its chic sun loungers, the pool and restaurant. This is where the glam crowd likes to hang, and you can see why. It’s secluded, beautiful and indulgent. From El Kabron, it’s not far to the beautiful Uluwatu temple, which dates back to the 11th century. A visit at sunset is another essential Bali experience. As the sun begins to dip, the temple draws large crowds. But even elbow-to-elbow this has to be one of Bali’s most beautiful places. As the sky turns from deep pink to indigo we stay for the Balinese dancers who take over the temple amphitheatre to perform the Kecak Fire Dance, using only their voices to

LEFT PAGE: Uluwatu Temple. RIGHT & INSET: MoVida at Katamama Hotel. TOP RIGHT: El Kabron Club.

deliver a cacophony of rhythmic sound that charts this dramatic tale of love and evil. If Bali’s central and south coast is all about shopping, dining and lounging by the pool, the Uluwatu temple is a reminder there’s another side to Bali that shouldn’t be missed.

Escape the crowds A desire to tap into the spiritual and cultural side of the island, and to experience some of its untouched natural beauty, is the reason why many tourists head east instead of west. On the east coast you can forget traffic jams and jostling crowds. Instead, dramatic black sand

On the east coast you can forget traffic jams and jostling crowds

beaches, steep rice paddy terraces, lush rainforests, distant mountain peaks, chilled-out surfers, serene temples, traditional villages and quiet nights are the backdrop to a region that is all about shifting into the slow lane.

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Wyndham Tamansari Jivva. BELOW: Pilgrims and calm scenes at Tirta Empul temple.

Where to stay

It’s a brief glimpse of local life and culture that stays with you where brightly coloured insects land on our hands and hair, and observe local women practise the intricate art of batik. All before heading back to Jivva for a long, soothing massage, followed by a herbal tea overlooking a rice field stretching down to the sea. On a visit to the exquisite Tirta Empul temple near Ubud, where pilgrims purify themselves in a series of freshwater pools, our charming guide Agung shares stories of the Hindu gods and the island’s history, from Dutch colony to proudly independent state. It’s a

brief glimpse of local life and culture that stays with you when you leave, even as you fight the traffic back to the airport. Justine Costigan was a guest of Wyndham Hotel Group. wyndhamhotels.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY WYNDHAM TAMANSARI JIVVA, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

The elegant Wyndham Tamansari Jivva resort in the Klungkung district is one of just a handful of developments on this stretch of coast, just 20km from Ubud. Here, verdant gardens tumble down to the beach and low-rise buildings look out over rice fields and paddocks where cows lazily graze, across to the dark volcanic sand or towards the pool where guests seek shade under pretty Balinese umbrellas. Wyndham’s large, openair yoga deck, tucked away near the garden spa, indicates that health and wellness is a priority. And yoga retreats, holidays focused on wellness and cultural activities (think cooking classes, art tours, temple visits and experiences in nature) are top of the local activity list. We visit a coffee farm set in lush rice paddies, see a butterfly garden

WYNDHAM GARDEN KUTA BEACH A stylish hotel opposite the beach with pool and inhouse spa. Rooms start from IDR 735,000 (AU$70) wyndhamgardenkuta bali.com WYNDHAM TAMANSARI JIVVA RESORT BALI A stunning location far from the crowds offering rooms, suites and pool villas. Rooms start from IDR 1,050,000 (AU$100) wyndhamjivvabali.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY PEABERRYS, HUBRO, CREMA COFFEE GARAGE, DARKS COFFEE ROASTERS

NEWCASTLE I COFFEE

HOME TO ROAST THE DAILY GRIND JUST KEEPS GETTING BETTER IN NEWCASTLE WORDS SARAH GAMBONI

Perfect pick-up

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a crop of boutique roasters now caters to the community’s thirst “There would have been six espresso machines in Newcastle at the time, and no one had a coffee grinder,” Adrian says. “My first job was grinding hundreds of kilos of beans – I’d be jumping off my dial just from the aroma of coffee in the air.” Inspired by the café cultures of Melbourne and Italy, he recognised a gap

The best beans

PHOTOGRAPHY PEABERRYS, DARKS COFFEE ROASTERS, EDWINA RICHARDS

ewcastle has come a long way – and nowhere is that more apparent than the local coffee scene. Novocastrians don’t have to cast their minds too far back to a time when a standing coffee order was a mug of cappuccino piled high with overfrothed milk. But just as this NSW coastal enclave has transformed from industrial hub to cosmopolitan city, so too has its café culture evolved. And a crop of boutique roasters now caters to the community’s thirst for high-quality beans and alternative brews. Adrian Rigon, founder and head roaster of Peaberrys Coffee Roasters, grew up with caffeine flowing through his veins. His family moved to Newcastle from Melbourne in the ’90s to start a coffee wholesale business, at a time when espresso was still something of a novelty.

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CLOCKWISE: Newcastle’s transforming from industrial to cosmopolitan, Darks Coffee Roasters, Trent Alder and Adam Hills of Darks, bags of beans at Peaberrys, Peaberrys’ nitro brew.

in the market for locally roasted beans and opened Peaberrys in 2000. “I guess I was a bit ignorant and arrogant, but I believed the local market wanted something better,” he says. Over the past 18 years, Adrian has witnessed firsthand the local shift in attitude towards coffee. “Today, the expectation of high-quality coffee is very apparent,” he says. “It’s still largely a ‘coffee with milk’ town, but there’s a growing number of people looking for alternative brews, like our cold brew and nitro brew, and those who appreciate single origins and the different flavour nuances.” Adrian believes the

local industry has been boosted by baristas and roasters who’ve returned to Newcastle following stints interstate and abroad. “They’ve brought back all their experience, their passion and their skills, and Newcastle is flourishing as a result.” Two of those prodigal sons are Trent Alder and Adam Hills, who cut their teeth in Melbourne, the Hunter Valley and Canada before moving back to Newcastle and opening Darks Coffee Roasters three years ago. “When we were younger, there wasn’t a lot of opportunity in hospitality here, so we headed to Melbourne, which was

considered the coffee capital of the country,” Trent says. During their time away, Newcastle underwent significant redevelopment, shaking off its industrial past to reveal a thriving hub of

world-class beaches, bars and eateries. “I think a lot of people who moved away have realised the potential and are moving back, and with that comes a wealth of knowledge and experience,” Trent

Explore I NEWCASTLE

Did you know?

On 25 May, 2004, Jetstar’s inaugural flight took off from Newcastle, bound for Tullamarine in Melbourne, Victoria.

100 made with beans from Glee Coffee Roasters. The olive-green vintage van named Olive can be hired for weddings and events, and keeps students at the University of Newcastle caffeinated during study breaks. You’ll also spot ‘Olive’ at The Fernery, a new arts hub in the hip suburb of Islington. The Fernery is the brainchild of Angela, Rowena and Juliana Foong, the trio behind local fashion label High Tea with Mrs Woo. The sisters, together with their husbands, have created a community hive that hosts workshops, play dates and a fleet of food and coffee trucks. When chatting to Matthew Pointon of

Cup of goodness

TOP TO BOTTOM: Retro Kombi Co at The Fernery, coffee meets art at Darks.

I’d worked in Sydney and London, but we all come home to breed

Silverskin Coffee Roasters you realise just how supportive the local community is. When the lease on his warehouse came to an abrupt end, Matt had just three days to find a new location. “Within two hours of receiving the bad news, the Darks guys handed over the keys to their

PHOTOGRAPHY EDWINA RICHARDS, DARKS COFFEE ROASTERS

says. “There’s a specialty coffee scene that wasn’t here five years ago.” Is Newcastle at risk of being drowned in boutique brews? Trent doesn’t seem to think so. “There’s a real thirst for local produce,” he notes. “We’re seeing less of the big companies now, so there’s room for us smaller guys – we all look out for each other and we can all make our mark without stepping on each other’s toes.” Another familiar face on the local market is Retro Kombi Co. Mark and Sara Howell have kitted out a VW Kombi van with an espresso machine and taken their ‘roaming barista and bar’ on the road, serving coffees and cold brews

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Explore I NEWCASTLE

Newcastle’s best beans DARKS COFFEE ROASTERS Sample single-origin brews, plus toasted sandwiches, pastries and salads. 45 Watt Street, Newcastle and 301 Turton Road, Broadmeadow PEABERRYS COFFEE CELLAR DOOR Sip cold drip and nitro brew while you watch beans being roasted. 81 Maitland Road, Islington

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warehouse and let me roast on the days they weren’t using it,” Matthew says. “If it weren’t for them, my whole business would have collapsed.” Matthew, another bornand-bred Novocastrian, returned to open Silverskin in 2012. “I’d worked in Sydney and London, but we all come home to breed,” he says. “There’s a really lovely coffee scene now, and there’s more interest in single-origin beans, farmers and roasts,” Matthew says. “I regularly get asked about the sustainability and ethics of our coffee – five years ago, people couldn’t care less.” Sustainability is at the heart of Sprocket Roasters, which is home to the only coffee roasting machine in the world run entirely on biofuels. Ross Ciavarella and Chelsea D’Aoust came to Newcastle from Canada,

We’ve seen a big shift in what locals are looking for and teamed up with John Winter to launch a carbonneutral roaster. “People are starting to take more notice now,” Ross says of their carbonconscious coffee. “We’ve seen a big shift in what locals are looking for: they care for the environment and are asking for singleorigin beans. They’re more educated and their palate has matured.”

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Newcastle from all major cities. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

CREMA COFFEE GARAGE Order a cold brew or smooth latte at this boutique roaster, which also offers coffee-making equipment and barista courses. 62 Broadmeadow Road, Broadmeadow HUBRO Try the signature HuBrew cold brew, along with smoothie bowls, toasties and smashed avo. Shop 1A/295 Darby Street, Bar Beach APOTHECARY KITCHEN Iconic Newcastle café Three Beans Espresso has become Apothecary Kitchen, showcasing wholefoods and fermented fare, including housemade ginger beer and kombucha, along with a weekly rotation of singleorigin coffees. 103 Tudor St, Hamilton

FIFI LA FEMME Enjoy Silverskin’s espresso while you snack on cupcakes and macarons at this pretty bakery. Level G and Level 2, Charlestown Square, Charlestown DARK HORSE ESPRESSO Prop yourself up against a milk crate at this gritty warehouse café to sample Darks Coffee Roasters’ beans in an iced latte or silky flat white. 24 Greenway Street, Wickham BARISTA MISS At this locally focused café, order an expertly pulled espresso and buy bags of Darks beans to go. 79 Regent Street, New Lambton MAMA-P Tuck into virtuous smoothie bowls or salads and Darks coffees topped with organic coconut or almond milk. 142 Pacific Highway, Charlestown JOSIE COFFEE Keep an eye out for the Josie Coffee caravan at markets around town, or shop online for its singleorigin beans, blends and reusable coffee pods. Refer to josiecoffee.com.au

DOOR 34 Grab a Silverskin coffee from the takeaway window of this cute café. 34A Kelton Street, Cardiff PHOTOGRAPHY HUBRO, EDWINA RICHARDS

CLOCKWISE: Barista Miss, Apothecary Kitchen, on the menu at Hubro.

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VIETNAM I PHÚ QUÔC

VIETNAM Phú Quôc

READY, DISCOVER Smart sun-seekers are setting their sights on this tropical Vietnamese island. Now the race is on to visit before word gets out WORDS SOFIA LEVIN

Ho Chi Minh City

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Explore I PHÚ QUÔC

PHOTOGRAPHY FLICKR CREATIVE COMMONS / KATE EWING

ntil recently many travellers hadn’t heard of Phu QuÔc, an island in the Gulf of Thailand that’s closest to Cambodia but belongs to Vietnam. But development is in full swing as you fly in from the west over popular Long Beach. What was once a sleepy island of fishing villages is quickly becoming Vietnam’s answer to Phuket or Seminyak. From now through to 2021 big-name resorts are set to dot the shores like palm trees. The world’s longest cable car opened for business in February, stretching 8km between An Thoi in the south and the new Sun World Hon Thom Nature Park. The time to go is now, while you can reap the benefits of tourist centres, yet still roam off the beaten track. The relatively untouched north makes a peaceful base, and new all-inclusive spa resort, Fusion, manages to suit both honeymooners and those with kids, with its

No need for cutlery

A Grand Beach Villa at Fusion Resort Phú Quôc. INSET: Crab House restaurant. BOTTOM: Dinh Cau Night Market.

107 private beach, unlimited complimentary spa treatments and manicured grounds. On-site seafood restaurant Pezcá – and its domed timber beach bar – is a highlight. Further south, JW Marriott Phu QuÔc Emerald Bay Resort and Spa also opened last year. It’s based on the fictional Lamarck University (named after French naturalist JeanBaptiste Lamarck) and dreamed up by renowned architect Bill Bensley, who designed the 244 villas and suites around colourful 'academic departments'. Families will benefit from basing themselves in the action or enjoying a resort-style holiday, while the more adventurous should follow Robert Frost’s advice and

Tanks crawl with fish, shellfish and even sea snakes and frogs take the road less travelled — by scooter. Here’s what to explore on everyone’s soon-to-befavourite Asian island.

Seafood Dinh Cau Night Market is the epicentre of touristcentric Phu QuÔc. The streets are lined with colourful lanterns, exposed light bulbs reminiscent of fishing boats and plenty of visitors. Restaurants on the riverside are fenced in by tanks crawling with fish, shellfish, crustaceans and even sea snakes and frogs. More casual set-ups operate at grills barbecuing octopus, pork

skewers and something that translates to “grilled stupid”. You’ll hear the clacking of metal as vendors pulverise kem cuon (ice-cream scrolls); sample the island’s lessthan-palatable sim wine, made with rose myrtle fruit; and, if you’re lucky, watch a young man in a red satin tracksuit swallow snakes to Britney Spear’s ... Baby One More Time. For restaurant dining, the most popular seafood spot in Duong Dong town is Crab House, where American sports paraphernalia lines the walls. You won’t get a seat here in the evening

Explore I PHÚ QUÔC

Park yourself here

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, SOFIA LEVIN

TOP TO BOTTOM: Mango Bay Resort restaurant, Ham Ninh Pier, fishermen at the pier, Rory's Beach Bar.

without booking. Pick your seafood, sauce and spice level or order a mammoth combo. Further north in Ong Lang, Mango Bay Resort’s On The Rocks restaurant – parked on a deck with swaying wooden basket lights overlooking the ocean – is a tranquil alternative to toast the sunset. No trip to Phu QuÔc is complete without dining in a fishing village. Ham Ninh is on Phu QuÔc’s east coast and the main attraction is a pier with a dozen rickety seafood restaurants perched precariously over the water. Early risers can watch fishermen sort through shellfish and visit the market leading up to the pier, where you’ll find live and dried seahorses for sale. Rach Vem, at the northern tip of the island, is a less touristy option. It’s a working fishing

village with restaurants supplementing trade, so rubbish accumulates. Once on the water, wobbly wooden piers lead past corrugated-iron huts and fishing boats to restaurants on stilts. Here, fish in nets float in the water, waiting to become lunch or dinner. Visit during the day and take the only turn-off to Starfish Beach, named for the dozens of red critters in the crystal water.

Sunset drinks Rory's is the most popular place to grab a cocktail on Phu QuÔc; sit at low plastic chairs right on sandy Long Beach. It tends to draw the backpacker crowd with DJs and beach bonfires during peak season. You’ll eat better elsewhere, but a pizza might be a nice break from overloading on Vietnamese specialties. Beer lovers should try

a brew from local craft brewery Kinh Beer at Cinderella’s Beer (aka Tam Cam) – a friendly beer garden in Duong Dong. For something more refined head north to Phu QuÔc Gallery of Contemporary Art (GOCA). This unassuming gallery features art and sculptures, with an architecturally designed lounge attached. Order one of the well-executed cocktails, perhaps a lemongrass mojito, or create your own with the friendly mixologists. It’s not on the beach, but you can tilt your head back and look at the stars through the open roof.

Pagodas and temples Places of worship are scattered across the island. Cao Dai Temple and Dinh Cau Shrine are within walking distance and can be added to your list

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Explore I PHÚ QUÔC

History Phu QuÔc Prison, also known as The Coconut Tree Prison, is the darker side of paradise. Originally built by the French, it was used as a POW camp by South Vietnam to

Try some nuoc mam (fish sauce) direct from a factory detain and torture North Vietnamese soldiers in the late 1960s. There are 18 sheds surrounded by barbed wire with eerie mannequins recreating the conditions of the time. Think prisoners being boiled alive, escape tunnels and armed guards in towers. Entry is free and it’s an important piece of history, even if it is rife with propaganda.

Local wares “You can only say you’ve been to Phu QuÔc if you’ve tried pepper, fish sauce and sim wine,” says a cheeky guide from Phu QuÔc Countryside. It’s a pepper farm with a restaurant, cooking classes, brewery and basic bungalow, and it’s the pick of the farms to sample and buy pepper, which grows organically here. Tours are free, informative and

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Cao Dai Temple's exterior, inside Cao Dai Temple, Phú Quôc Countryside pepper farm.

operate daily, every half an hour from 10am. Kinh Beer is brewed here, so hang around for a cold one after the tour. Give sim wine – more of a sickly liqueur – a miss, but pinch your nose and try some nuoc mam (fish sauce) direct from a factory. Considered the best in the world, it’s more potent than what we’re used to at home. You’ll smell it before you see it thanks to rows of wooden vats filled with fermenting anchovies. It’s free to visit and although you can hire a guide, you can also just pop your head in, take a few photos and check out

the gift shop unassisted. Hung Thanh factory is a short walk from Duong Dong market, while Phung Hung is across the road from the prison. Ask your hotel which is the closest to you. Sofia Levin stayed in Phú Quôc with assistance from Fusion Resorts.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Ho Chi Minh City and regional connections via Jetstar Pacific. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, SOFIA LEVIN

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of things to do in central Duong Dong. A visit to the colourful Cao Dai Temple offers insight into Caodaism – a monotheistic religion founded in 1920s Vietnam, which draws on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. Dinh Cau Shrine, also known as the Rock Temple, is a charming Buddhist temple built into the rocks at the mouth of Duong Dong River. Fishermen pray for protection and calm seas on a terrace adjoining a lighthouse. Stay for sunset and then walk to the Night Market. At the top of a hill, just outside the bustle of Duong Dong, is Su Muon. This peaceful pagoda boasts vibrant Buddha statues and a decent view, but if you’re on a tight schedule make a beeline for Ho Quoc Pagoda. It was built in 2012 at the end of a scenic road along the east coast and you can’t beat the ocean outlook. Pass the jade Buddha, climb the stairs carved with dragons and see if you can spot the mainland. Tidy bonsai trees and caricaturelike statues surround the temples, set among verdant mountains. Come early to avoid crowds.

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Where rainforest meets the reef

This is the place where the oldest living rainforest in the world, the Daintree Rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. Port Douglas is a relaxed seaside village with a vibrant feel, providing the ideal base for travellers to explore the natural beauty of the region. Port Douglas Carnivale is a must do event celebrating life in the tropics from 25 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 27 May.

This is the place where the oldest living rainforest in the world, the Daintree Rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. Port Douglas is a relaxed seaside village with a vibrant vibe, providing the ideal base for travellers to explore the natural beauty of the region.

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Explore I ORPHEUS ISLAND

THE ORPHEUS EFFECT

Orpheus Island

Townsville

QUEENSLAND

Only accessible by helicopter or boat, this stunning reef island attracts a diverse mix of people – from researchers to daytrippers, campers and those seeking a luxurious retreat

PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA BYRNES

WORDS PETER BARRETT

Where we’d rather be

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spot my first shark minutes after stepping foot on the island: a couple of fins lazily break the surface just half a metre from the shoreline and ripple past, parallel with the beach. The fish (I later learn she is a blacktip reef shark) is only a 50-centimetre baby, but for a city slicker like me it’s a thrilling encounter with nature. Orpheus Island, named after an Australian naval ship that sank in New Zealand waters in 1863, is 11 kilometres long, one kilometre wide and about 80 clicks north-east of Townsville. Surrounded by the pristine, protected waters of the Great Barrier Reef, and with most of the island a national park, the place is simply teeming with animal life. As well as reefs covered in colourful corals, sponges and starfish, you’ll see giant clams, more than 1000 species of fish and, if you’re lucky, humpback whales making their graceful migratory

journey along the east coast from late June to September. Although it is possible to visit on a daytrip from mainland ports in Townsville or Lucinda (including with a seasonal ferry service by Sealink Queensland), the island is home to three campsites, the luxury Orpheus Island Lodge and a marine research station run by James Cook University, which takes volunteers. Early in my stay I organise a visit to meet Ashton Gainsford, the station’s then-acting general manager. Standing barefoot on the white sandy beach, Ashton lists the many elements that make up her varied working day: boat transfers, moving the station’s tractor, corresponding with academics and schools, organising bookings and going for dives to service the facility’s many specimen tanks. “But then, at the end of the day we get to look at this,” she says, gesturing to

PICTURED: The lap of luxury at Orpheus Island Lodge. ABOVE: Whales can be spotted in local waters from June. RIGHT: Hammock time at the resort.

PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA BYRNES, ROSS PENEGAR, ALAMY, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, JAMES VODICKA PHOTOGRAPHY

Explore I ORPHEUS ISLAND

Underwater wonder Exploring the Great Barrier Reef off Orpheus. LEFT: Remote beaches on Orpheus Island seen from above. INSET RIGHT: Colourful coral at close quarters.

the aquamarine horizon fringed on either side with lush mangroves. Today, a group of three researchers has arrived, planning to set up 360-degree cameras on the reef so students thousands of kilometres away can observe what happens in real time. Meanwhile, the station’s five volunteers are busy doing their four hours of maintenance tasks, which they happily exchange for staying in a beautiful place where they can spend the rest of their time snorkelling and hiking. Volunteers are selected through an application process. “Obviously we are in a remote place,” says Ashton, “so we don’t let

people come here that have medical problems … but generally it’s open to the public.” Camping is another option. John Schmidt of Absolute North Charters says campers who make the trip with his boat charters to Orpheus Island tend to be young families and couples planning to stay a couple of nights for the excellent snorkelling, and peace and quiet. Locals also make the trip with their own boats on big holiday weekends, from ramps located at Lucinda and Taylors Beach. John has been ferrying passengers to Orpheus and nearby Hinchinbrook Island, Australia’s largest island national park, since 2003. “It’s not chance that [the area] is on the World Heritage List,” he says. “The natural vistas are quite special. And when you dig a little bit deeper and start to see what actually lives here it all starts to look like an ancient environment.” He regularly sees dugong and unusual-looking snubfin dolphins, adding to the almost prehistoric feeling about the place. John is keen to protect the area from ‘overtourism’ and is involved in a program with the research station

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Explore I ORPHEUS ISLAND

The rugged beauty of Hinchinbrook Island. RIGHT: Kayaks pulled up on Hinchbrook’s shores. BELOW: Sunset scenes at Orpheus Lodge.

Bucketlist bed

that regularly collects plastic rubbish from Orpheus, swept there by currents from as far away as Indonesia. “When you see turtles with bits of stuff around their flipper, it’s embarrassing as far as humanity goes. The funny thing is you know there’s nobody out there who wants to hurt that turtle but some people are ignorant about how water works.” Back on Orpheus, we decide to take the 40-minute voyage to Hinchinbrook Island – a trip that’s available to Orpheus Island Lodge guests (transfers are also available from mainland operators). During the crossing I spot something just off the starboard bow. It’s a hammerhead shark, casually cruising through

the sheer rock walls of Hinchinbrook’s Hillock Point loom over the swell the choppy waves towards the mainland. I’m struck again by how exciting it is to see this ancient-looking creature in the wild – even if it’s without a Sir David Attenborough soundtrack. Soon, the sheer rock walls of Hinchinbrook’s Hillock Point loom over the swell and our captain makes for the sheltered waters of Zoe Bay. Here we disembark for a short hike to Zoe Falls, a natural freshwater pool serviced by countless tributaries and creeks channelling water from the island’s cloud-covered mountain peaks of Burnett and Bowen. As we set off, our guide pockets a couple of

march flies we’ve swatted and I wonder why. The mystery is solved when, after trekking through rainforest and an ankledeep creek, we arrive at our destination and she drops the insects into the

Twilight frolics

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, EMMA BYRNES

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Established in the 1930s and refurbished by its current owner over the past seven years, the Orpheus Island Lodge is a five-star luxury eco resort, limited to 28 guests at a time. The premium level service and top facilities come at a cost, however, with studio-villas starting from $1500 per night (meals and drinks included). Access is by helicopter only, from Townsville or Cairns, with one-way flights costing $295 and $725 per person from those towns, respectively. orpheus.com.au

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Explore I ORPHEUS ISLAND

Getting there

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freshwater pool. Suddenly there is a bubble and boil and then all is calm again. Below, a large school of jungle perch cruise the shallows, begging for more bush treats. We spend the day swimming with the beautiful fish and hiking up to the top of the falls for the view. Hinchinbrook is a stunning island with multiple landscapes and microclimates, courtesy of how the land slopes towards the sun and prevailing winds. Although our stay is short, plenty of hikers linger longer, taking three nights

in a patch of deep water next to the coral, I spot another shark and four days to walk the popular 32-kilometre Thorsborne Trail, which runs north-south along the island’s east coast. But back on Orpheus, it’s time to take the trip of a lifetime. Lunches packed, we zoom across the glassy ocean north-east some 20 nautical miles (nearly 40

kilometres) to the outer reaches of the Great Barrier Reef. Without a speck of land in sight we plunge in and enter another world. An eagle ray slips gracefully by, moving languidly through the water. Meanwhile, I’m distracted by the coral reef and its inhabitants, including vivid blue starfish, black, white and yellow-striped Moorish idol angelfish and myriad other colours and shapes. Then, in a patch of deep water next to the coral, resting on the sand, I spot another shark. This time it’s a whitetip reef shark (generally not dangerous to people), about a metreand-a-half long. As she slowly slips away into the deep I wish I could call her back so I could observe her longer.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Townsville from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA BYRNES

Gazing out to the ocean from Orpheus Island Lodge. ABOVE: Flaming foliage in the Orpheus Island National Park.

For boat transfers and daytrips to Orpheus from Lucinda see absolutenorthcharters. com.au (all boat crossings are weather and tide dependent). From now until October, Sealink Queensland (sealinkqld.com.au) is running regular daytrips out to Orpheus Island. The service departs Townsville at 11am to travel through the Palm Island Group to Yanks Jetty on Orpheus Island, returning to Townsville by 6pm. For camping, permits are required, see npsr.qld. gov.au. Find out more and apply for volunteer positions at James Cook University’s Orpheus Island Research Station at jcu.edu.au/ orpheus-island. General information about Orpheus, Hinchinbrook and surrounds at hinchinbrookway.com.au.

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Explore I DARWIN

THE COMEBACK CAPITAL

Darwin

Long overlooked as a gateway, this tropical, Top End city is in the throes of transformation WORDS CHLOE CANN

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PHOTOGRAPHY STONE HOUSE WINE BAR

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Explore I DARWIN

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lmost entirely rebuilt four times, Darwin is no stranger to transformation. Neither air raids nor cyclones have managed to quash the spirit of this northern outpost, or those who call it home. The botanical gardens, decimated by Cyclone Tracy in 1974 (the most damaging cyclone to ever hit Australia), are today in full bloom, with a further facelift worth nearly $10 million in the works. Stokes Hill Wharf, shredded during the Bombing of Darwin in 1942 (the largest single attack ever mounted by a foreign power on Australia), now houses a shiny, new, stateof-the-art museum and copious alfresco eateries. So it should come as no surprise that this small city is a master in the art of reinvention. “It’s a fairly resilient town,” says Alex James, a Darwinite who opened new burger bar Good Thanks with his brother Eddie in October last year. “The exciting thing about Darwin is that it goes through several iterations of itself. It’s quite an eclectic, artsy place.” Reimagining existing spaces – whether tumbledown stone buildings, or forgotten corners of car parks – is one of Darwin’s biggest strengths. The city’s Town Hall Ruins serve not only as a stark reminder of the destruction of Tracy, but also as an atmospheric backdrop for productions of Shakespeare and wedding ceremonies come the dry season. Browns Mart Theatre – a heritage building that dates back to 1885, and formerly housed a mining exchange, a bank, the police, and even the armed forces during WWII – is now the home of a progressive theatre. And an empty laneway – once lined with nothing but air conditioning ducts and rubbish

Darwin-based artist Franck Gohier on show at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. INSET: Browns Mart Theatre. BELOW: Darwin’s walls come alive.

If these walls could talk

Explore I DARWIN

the entire city centre is now one sprawling, outdoor gallery

bins – has been refashioned into The Lane Art Space, which hosts multimedia events once a month and a rotating display of local, contemporary artworks. Today, thanks to a new festival, the entire city centre is now one sprawling, outdoor gallery. The first Darwin Street Art Festival took place over 10 days last October, bringing together local and interstate artists, tasked with reviving the stark and sombre exteriors of 11 city facades, and bringing a new lease of life to a struggling CBD. “The issue with Darwin has been that it’s really difficult to get people into the city,” explains long-time resident Alison Edwards, as we stroll through the capital’s arcades and laneways. Her ‘art-walk-eat’ tours offer insight into the changing face of the city, such as the vibrantly painted murals, commissioned for the festival. “Locals go to the big air-conditioned shopping centres outside the city, and visitors come in and go straight out again [to the national parks].” The Darwin Street Art Festival was created to entice people back into the city’s perimeters once again, as part of the local government’s wider ‘Revitalising Darwin CBD’ project. And the ‘walls that talk’ seem to have had the intended effect. “It’s the best thing that’s happened to Darwin,” says Paul Arnold, a local landscape photographer from his eponymous gallery in downtown

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Explore I DARWIN

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Darwin; he’s one of a handful of artists and curators I chat to oneon-one as part of the tour. Catching glimpses of these vivid pops of colour first-hand I can understand Paul’s positivity. On the wall of an otherwise mundane backstreet car park, the Top End’s most iconic features (fat banyan trees, termite mounds, water towers) are clearly rendered. The work, fittingly titled Darwin, is in a strikingly minimalist palette of black, white and red. Another,

named Poppies for the People, explodes with reds, greens and blues on a brick canvas several storeys high. Beside detailed green leaves – evocative of Darwin’s soupy climes – a painting of poppies offers a subtle nod to the RSL next door, and Australia’s fallen soldiers. There are plenty more, lurking around corners and above eyelines – from gargantuan, rainbow-coloured Gouldian finches to abstract depictions of saltwater creatures. But Alison’s tour is not just

limited to city streets and photography studios. This entire region is steeped in a rich Aboriginal art culture. The Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory is arguably Darwin’s flagship art hub, but many local studios and galleries showcase contemporary and traditional pieces from across the NT. Alison’s prime pick is Mbantua Fine Art Gallery, which specialises in paintings from the Arrernte people of Utopia, Central Australia. “Lots of art dealers are unscrupulous,” notes Alison. “But Mbantua is wellknown for being the most ethical.” The gallery’s curator walks us through abstract dot paintings and canvases full with geometric patterns. While each sports wildly different colour palettes, designs and levels of detail, there are recurring subjects, such as mulga berries or rattail cactus. Indigenous artists can only paint the totems they have been inherited from their fathers, Alison explains. To draw other things, they need to seek out special permission.

PHOTOGRAPHY MBANTUA FINE ART GALLERY

Ancient stories on show at Mbantua Gallery. BELOW: Poppies for the People lights up a carpark.

Explore I DARWIN

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One scene where Darwin is moving away from tradition is food and drink. Slowly the culinary landscape is changing – no longer are dining options polarised as standard pub grub or expensive formal fare. And attitudes are changing too. “There was a ‘near enough is good enough’ philosophy,” explains Good Thanks’ Alex of the local offerings. He and his brother spent the past couple of years working ski seasons abroad, but came home spurred on by the promise of opportunity. “The reason we came back was that we could see a glaring gap in the market; there’s nothing really like Good Thanks in Darwin. It’s a good time for the younger crowd to come through, and that’s the exciting thing – it’s an opportunity town at the moment.” The shift has been tangible, Alex says of the inventive new restaurants surfacing throughout the CBD. At Little Miss Korea, which sprung up in Woolworths’ old loading bay in November 2015, the menu is packed with creative Korean food whipped up by owner

It’s a good time for the younger crowd to come through Chung Jae Lee. The industrial innards of the space have been retained, providing a more gritty interior than is the norm for these parts. While Korean barbecue is popular, you’d be a fool to forgo the crisp rounds of deep-fried lotus root, or the more delicate Moreton Bay bugtail wonton. The restaurant is also set to open its own bar next door this month, named Speak Easy. Then there’s PM Eat & Drink, a smart, small-plates eatery, inspired by the Mediterranean; Six Tanks Brew Co – the first craft brewpub in the Northern Territory, and a buzzing, colourful hub – that joined the party in late 2016; Stone House Wine Bar, sporting peeling paint walls and international drops, which opened in an old Chinese merchant’s house last year; and Skin, a coffee shop-cum-boutique

clothes store that opened in the Country Women’s Association building last July. And there’s plenty more in store. After opening last month, Indigenous-owned kitchen on wheels Elijah’s will serve innovative dishes that capitalise on native ingredients until 30 September, and cult South Korean fried chicken chain NeNe is set to open in the city later this year. Darwin’s eclectic – and constantly evolving – art and food scene is no overnight, in-your-face success story, though the city is quickly gaining momentum. “It’s on the edge of becoming a really cool city, and it has every damn right to be,” says Alex. “It’s ripe for the picking.”

Getting there Jetstar has great low fares to Darwin from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY RESIDENT MAGAZINE, PM EAT AND DRINK

PM Eat & Drink, one of Darwin’s most promising newcomers. INSET: Chung Jae Lee in Little Miss Korea.

Promotion I TASMANIA

Tassie’s on top FROM KOOKY TO COOL – THESE BITES, DRINKS, PRODUCTS AND EVENTS ALL BECKON YOU TO THE APPLE ISLE

Say cheese Australia’s home of cheddar, Pyengana Dairy has been making traditional, cloth-bound cheddar for more than 130 years. Enter cheese heaven at its Farm Gate Café, a proud member of the sustainable food network – The Tasmanian Food Co. See the cows being milked and sit back with a gourmet spread, overlooking panoramic views of the valley. thetasmanianfoodco.com.au

What’s smoking Go behind the scenery and visit the Taste House to indulge your tastebuds with Australia’s finest smoked fish. Enjoy stunning water views with a glass of wine and a smokehouse seafood platter. The Taste House is open from Monday to Friday, 10am to 4pm, at 59 Thomas Road, Woodbridge, just past Kettering and the Bruny Island Ferry turn-off. woodbridgesmokehouse.com.au

FEASTING, CIDER, FIRE & FOLKLORE Sing to an apple tree while banging pots and pans by firelight in the Huon Valley. Between 13 and 15 July, visitors can celebrate the region’s applegrowing history by joining the largest wassail in the Southern Hemisphere, visiting the orchards and performing an ancient ritual to ensure a bumper harvest. huonvalleymidwinterfest.com.au

When adventure calls The Spotted Quoll has got you covered with unisex wool capes designed and made in Tasmania – perfect for the adventure seeker, wanderer or festival hunter. Available in black, grey or oatmeal RRP $199. Free shipping Australia-wide. thespottedquoll.com.au

PURITY IN A BOTTLE Thanks to its clean environment, Tasmania produces some of the best fruit in Australia. The delicious Pure Tassie juices are made with the finest organic apples and fruits, crushed fresh. Find them in the juice aisle of Coles and Woolworths. puretassie.com.au

Directory PromotionI AUSTRALIA

This month

FEAST FOR LESS

GREAT THINGS TO DO, BUY AND EXPERIENCE

Head to Hog’s Breath Australia’s Steakhouse for the three-course $29.90 meal deal, with a choice of three starters, three mains and three desserts. Choose your favourite, or mix and share, for a limited time only. hogsbreath.com.au

Plot a tropical escape Queensland’s Port Douglas and Daintree region blends casual sophistication with dramatic natural landscapes for the perfect getaway. Ready to embrace an endless summer? Port Douglas Carnivale (25-27 May) celebrates life in the tropics with fabulous food, music and festivities. carnivale.com.au

Hellenic tale INVEST IN ECO Water Kiosk Vending is an innovative program that provides convenient water refill kiosks – reducing the amount of pollution and waste created by traditional bottled water. Purchasing a kiosk (or two) provides a highly profitable, secure and stable financial opportunity. Why not get paid to help the environment? waterkioskvending.com.au

Prepare to fall under a spell with a magical, intoxicating epic of family rivalry, power struggles, love and loss, set in Ancient Greece. Circe by Madeline Miller is out now, Bloomsbury, RRP $29.99

Healthy and happy Crafted from only the purest certified organic vegan wholefoods, each Sõl Bar comes in four delicious flavours with 17g of protein but without all the sugar and junk ingredients. Sõl Good Bars (12 Pack) RRP $59.40. sunwarrior.com.au

Whitsunday dreaming The last beachfront opportunity in the worldfamous Whitsundays Region, The Beaches Funnel Bay is a private and exquisite oasis with an exclusive beach on its doorstep. This prestigious gated collection of luxurious residences is just six minutes from the heart of Airlie Beach – the vibrant hub of the Whitsundays.

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Greek eats on Australian streets Zeus Street Greek specialises in Australian-inspired, traditional Greek dishes with a modern twist. Favourites include fluffy pitas filled with falafel or succulent meat from the spit, tasty salads or the famous haloumi chips. With 20 stores across Australia, find your nearest at zsg.com.au

Directory I AUSTRALIA / NEW Promotion ZEALAND

AUSSIE SPIRIT How do you capture the essence of our sunburnt country? Vantage Australia has bottled the flavours of the bush to create our very own unique spirit, representing the best of our nation. spiritofanation.com

Sitting pretty With the cooler weather approaching, OZ Design Furniture’s new season collections have been introduced to channel warmth, and ensure style is at the heart of your home. Upholstered in velvet, the dreamy Coco sofa will bring style, sophistication and, above all, comfort to your living room. Shop in-store or online now at OZ Design Furniture. Coco 3.5-seater sofa in Mystere Peacock, RRP $3,449. ozdesignfurniture.com.au

STREETS AHEAD Enterprise Rent-A-Car knows that a rental car gives you the freedom to enjoy Australia’s coastal drives, beautiful beaches, national parks, gourmet food trails and more. Enjoy 15 per cent off your next rental with our online discount this May – see page 25 for details. enterpriserentacar.com.au

A swell time Who doesn’t like time out on the water? Measuring 42m, the stunning Seadeck has a full bar and three vast, open decks, affording guests unrestricted views across Sydney Harbour. Seadeck is not just a venue – it’s an unforgettable experience. seadeck.com.au

Animal-friendly travel tips Whether it’s posing for a wildlife selfie, visiting live animal shows or riding an elephant, demand from travellers means animals across the world continue to suffer. Be an animal-friendly traveller by seeing wild animals in the wild – where they belong. worldanimalprotection.org.au

The Harbour City’s new hotel Vibe Hotel North Sydney has opened at Northpoint, offering cool rooms, free Wi-Fi and excellent fitness facilities. The new Northpoint complex also boasts a stunning rooftop pool and bar, and an array of smart and casual eateries, making this the best new place to stay on the North Shore. vibehotels.com

Directory I AUSTRALIA

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AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

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Explore I INTERVIEW

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Let there be light

PHOTO DESTINATION NSW

From sensory experiences to live music, talks and workshops, Vivid Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s program (25 May to 16 June) is packed.

NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Jetstar’s Juniors Travel Blogger ted off to the Jocelyn, 10, of Sydney, jet ally epic? Gold Coast. But was it tot

Lights, camera, fun! “My favourite part of the Gold Coast was Movie World. It’s very big and has quite a lot of scary roller-coasters! I liked the Scooby-Doo one. I screamed the first time … and the second. It has a lot of sharp turns and it’s completely dark and you drop down backwards really fast! I also had this photo taken with Wonder Woman. She’s my favourite superhero. I love how she’s so resilient – she always bounces back and is a great person.”

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K-Zone and Total recently called ou Girl t to of Australia to see the kids who had the makings of a Jetst Blogger. Six cleve ar Junior r won a flight to the winners Australian destination of the ir choosing.

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TEAM TRAVEL TIPS

Three travel tips for Ho Chi Minh City - with Tom Pearson-Piper Group Business Resilience Manager, Jetstar

1 “Saigon’s rooftop bars have amazing views and offer a cool breeze at the end of a hot day. Two of the best are Chill Skybar in District 1, where you can party all night; or The Social Club Rooftop on the edge of District 3 – great if you want to chill out and pretend to be famous.”

2 “Eat everything. Get a proper bánh mì from a street stall or a pho from one of the Pho Hung outlets around the city. If you’re after something a little more fancy, happy hour and dinner afterwards at The Deck – on the banks of the Saigon River in District 2 – shouldn’t be missed.”

3 “Cross a road. Take a deep breath, walk slowly and predictably, resist the urge to panic and run, and the traffic will part around you as if by magic. You will never feel more alive than when you master the art and reach the other side.”

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

A ROARING SUCCESS STORY Global adventurer Robin Esrock is travelling with his family across Australia, in search of new experiences. This month they roar into South Australia. In the 1960s, great white shark attack survivor Rodney Fox visited Adelaide Zoo’s lion enclosure. It inspired him to pioneer the shark cage – to observe and learn about the fascinating predator that almost took his life. Nearly half a century later, shark cage diving has inspired a world-first lion cage encounter inside the country’s largest open-range zoo. Talk about coming full circle! Located an hour outside of Adelaide, the Lions 360 experience in Monarto Zoo places visitors inside the cage, while lions gather around you. Timed with the lions’ daily feeding, and carefully monitored by conservation officers, the pride is engaged and curious, and close enough for you to feel their breath, hear their grunts, and smell their musk. Visitors can request to feed the lions with metal tongs, while a model Land Rover gives you a glimpse outside the specially constructed cage. My four-year-old daughter must have looked particularly delicious, causing a lioness to growl loudly above her head. The jury is out on whether it gave her a lifelong love, or phobia, of these fierce beasts. One thing is certain: Lions 360 is a special animal encounter inspired by South Australia’s unique DNA. It’s about time we took our place inside the cage. Robin Esrock’s book, The Great Australian Bucket List, will be published in October. Follow his journey at @robinesrock or esrockingkids.com

Curious cat

Growing

greener cities IT’S ESTIMATED that 75 per cent of the world’s population will live in cities by 2050. That means we have just over 30 years to find secure sources of nutritious food to satisfy these growing urban appetites. Melbourne-based not-for-profit 3000acres believes we need to embrace and cultivate a culture of living closer together and growing more food in more places. Led by botanist and horticulturist Pippa French, 3000acres partners with councils and businesses to turn under-utilised land into community gardens, where people can gather, learn and grow fresh,

healthy food. Through doing this they hope to fight social isolation and food insecurity to create a happier and healthier Australia. They plan to build a model that will change how we look at unused urban space right around Australia, and even the globe. Kooks Social Winery is proud to support 3000acres. To roll up your sleeves and help, visit 3000acres.org Support this and other great causes by purchasing Kooks wine on board your flight.

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Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Life at Jetstar

Meet Dylan!

THIS MONTH our friends at PayPal are giving you the chance to make DOUBLE the difference through StarKids! Simply make a booking through jetstar.com during our Birthday Sale or between 1 May and 5 June 2018* and select ‘add a donation to StarKids’ – Jetstar’s life-changing charitable partnership with World Vision Australia. Then, when you pay for your flights with PayPal, your StarKids donation will be matched to help give children living in poverty a brighter future. Thanks PayPal! Find out more at starkids.jetstar.com and jetstar.com or turn to page 141 to see the change you’re making.

WORKING AT JETSTAR is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about. The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career.

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Charitable no-brainer

But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read Dylan Osborn’s story below, or visit Life at Jetstar: Jetstar. com/au/en/careers/life-at-jetstar

*Valid for flight bookings made between Tuesday

DYLAN OSBORN Job Title: Graduate | No. of years at Jetstar: Just over one year Location: Melbourne Head Office How did you end up at Jetstar? I was lucky enough to secure a position in the 2017 Jetstar Graduate Program after completing a Bachelor of Aviation Management/Bachelor of Business at Swinburne University. Describe a typical day: There is no such thing as a typical day at Jetstar! Due to the nature of the aviation industry, it’s a very fast-paced organisation. Greatest challenge so far? The greatest challenge (but the best part) of the Jetstar Graduate Program is the four six-month rotations that graduates complete as part of the program. This means you work in four different departments, which can be ones you have no prior experience in. It can be a steep learning curve, but it’s also an unbelievable opportunity to broaden your skill set and knowledge of the company.

Career highlight so far? I couldn’t pick one single experience, but highlights include spending a day with a Jetstar Airways Captain in the flight deck flying up and down the east coast of Australia, as well as working in Vietnam, Singapore and Thailand. What do you love about aviation? I love it because it has simply made just about every corner of the world accessible. It gives you the freedom to explore and to have experiences not found where you live. What would surprise people about your job? I think most people would be surprised by the direct impact graduates have on the company. From day one, graduates are involved in decision-making and projects that have tangible effects on Jetstar, rather than just assisting in administrative work.

1 May 2018 12:01am AEST and Tuesday 5 June 2018 11:59pm AEST on Jetstar.com, where PayPal is selected as the form of payment for the booking. PayPal will match total donations to World Vision for StarKids of up to $50,000 made by Jetstar customers during this period. The PayPal service is provided by PayPal Australia Pty Limited (ABN 93 111 195 389), which holds Australian Financial Services Licence number 304962. Any information provided is general only and does not take into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Please read and consider the Combined Financial Services Guide and Product Disclosure Statement before acquiring or using the service.

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Book Now Be energised. Be here. *Conditions apply, valid for stays to 3 July 2018. Subject to availability. Check website for details.

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Essentials I WAYS TO SAVE

Closer than you think STOP DREAMING ABOUT YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY AND MAKE IT HAPPEN. TO CELEBRATE JETSTAR’S 14TH YEAR, AND A MONTH OF GREAT DEALS, HERE ARE OUR TOP 14 TIPS FOR PLANNING AND BUDGETING FOR YOUR TRIP BEFORE YOU FLY

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1. SHOW ME THE MONEY It’s never too early to start thinking about your budget. Little savings and sacrifices now could mean one more bowl of pho in Ho Chi Minh City, or another poolside Mai Tai in Honolulu. If you’re heading to a foreign country, avoid pricey fees and poor exchange rates at airport money exchanges by changing money in advance or checking your bank’s charges for withdrawals at foreign ATMs. 2. AFFAIRS IN ORDER We’re all guilty of forgetting that little detail before travelling. Make a packing list and check it twice. If heading overseas, don’t forget a power adaptor or any prescriptions needed. Leaving the fur babies behind? Catteries and kennels can become pricey – ask around for a willing babysitter, or a recommended professional.

3. GET THE FLIGHTS SORTED Have you spotted a great airfare just a smidge before payday? Jetstar is the only airline to offer Afterpay, so you can snag that amazing flight deal at least two weeks in advance and pay it off in four instalments (for a payment fee of 1.5 per cent). Remember, extras such as baggage and meals are cheaper to buy at the time of booking. 4. FIND HOME The right accommodation can make all the difference. Before you book, think about all the little extras. A kitchenette or included breakfast, free Wi-Fi or a washing machine in your hotel or Airbnb can save time and funds. For hotels and flights, Jetstar.com

is a one-stop shop, with great hotel deals and Airbnb rentals waiting at the click of a button. 5. BOOK DIRECT When you book your flight on Jetstar’s website, you’ll get the best possible deal thanks to the Price Beat Guarantee. If you find a better fare from a competitor or third party online elsewhere, Jetstar will beat it by 10 per cent – and that includes Jetstar flights found on other websites. The Price Beat Guarantee also applies on Jetstar’s hotels and holiday packages, too (check the conditions when booking).

6. COVER YOUR BASES Before you set off, be prepared. Travel insurance might seem like spending, but it can save you a lot down the road if something goes awry. Research visas and entry fees for foreign countries to avoid any unexpected surprises on touchdown. 7. JOIN THE CLUB Loyalty clubs and memberships can provide instant discounts or long-term rewards. Club Jetstar unlocks memberonly fares, sales, baggage discounts and seat selection – all for a join fee of $49 and an annual fee of $49.99 for each year after – while Qantas Frequent Flyer offers rewards for certain Jetstar flights. Still studying? The ISIC (International Student Identity Card) offers fulltime students discounts and deals in 133 countries.

Essentials I WAYS TO SAVE

ON THE GROUND 8. THE RUN AROUND That last-minute taxi can cost an arm and a leg – public transport, bus services or even car-pooling are cost-effective options for airport transfers. When you get to the other side, a map to your lodgings and rough idea of the travel costs can help. Public transport is often one of the cheapest – and most educational – ways to see a new destination; download local transport apps and maps, and start exploring.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

9. EAT LIKE A LOCAL Food is the window into a destination’s soul. If you find a restaurant, street food stall, café or wine bar packed with locals, it normally means you’re onto a good thing. For even more insight into local tastes, pop into the supermarket and stock up for picnics in the park, late night snacks, or breakfasts on the run.

10. GET ’APPY Technology can be a wonderful thing, and a smart phone a potentially infinite source of advice and inspiration. A currency transfer or translation app can prove a very handy tool to have in your pocket. Travel forums and social media also provide endless inspiration – try searching hashtags for hints of what might be hiding just around the corner. 11. MAKE A DEAL There’s no shame in a bargain! Discount days at cinemas, theatres and museums can showcase local culture on the cheap, and happy hours and dining specials offer value-formoney gastronomy. If you’re

travelling with kids or are a senior, a little digging might uncover discounted rates for attractions, activities and meals. Haggling is also acceptable in some countries, but keep in mind it’s not always worth bartering over an extra 50 cents. 12. FREE IS FUN Sometimes the best things in life really are free. Seek out free walking tours, public galleries or community events, or tap into an endless source of free adventure in the great outdoors. Go for a hike in the nearest national park, acquaint yourself with local flora in botanical gardens or take a dip at the beach. Sunshine and fresh air are nature’s greatest freebies.

13. ASK A FRIEND If friends or family have visited a destination before, and share similar tastes, ask for their recommendations. Or, better yet, seize the opportunity to make new friends and ask the advice of a local. Your waiter/taxi driver/tour guide might end up suggesting a hidden gem. 14. GO ONE STREET BACK While it pays to know the must-do attractions, tourist hotspots can often come with a price tag. Follow the intrepid traveller’s golden rule and explore one street, block or suburb back. That’s where you’ll find the restaurant frequented by locals, inspiring street art, superb view or a little boutique that might wind up a highlight of the whole trip.

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Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

VIETNAM I STARKIDS

How nutrition clubs are empowering women Small things can spark big change: in southern Vietnam one woman is supporting the health of children in her community through an innovative business model WORDS MEGAN ANDERSON

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

This year*

$769,507

PHOTO WORLD VISION

Thanks to skills learnt through a nutrition club, Yen’s shop is benefiting the health of her family (pictured) and her community.

A FEW YEARS ago, Yen was struggling. Job shortages forced her husband to take on seasonal labouring work in the south, while Yen found work a few days a month processing acacia – back-breaking work that brought in AU$6 a day. Her two children suffered severe malnutrition. But in 2014, everything changed. After joining a StarKids-funded nutrition club in her village, Yen learnt to cook a healthy porridge from affordable, local ingredients. Her children’s health improved, and an idea began to form. Two years later, Yen opened a small shop

in her village with the support of World Vision. Her product of choice? Porridge for children. “I wanted to transform what I learnt into something beneficial to people in need,” says Yen. “I thought the project [could] succeed since the price would be much cheaper than instant porridge sold in the city.” At the store, Yen informs customers on how to serve nutritious food at home, using local ingredients. She also cooks and sells meals, confectionary and drinks. Her entire family is now benefiting from the business’s success. “Now my husband can stay with us – he does not

Total

$9,932,456 need to work far from his family. Instead, we work together on our business. Its average income [around 250,000 VND, or AU$14, per day], is enough to take proper care of our children.” Yen’s hard work hasn’t gone unnoticed. She was elected leader of her village’s nutrition club, and has been invited to attend healthcare and business management training. And these days, Yen is determined to boost child health in her community by leading through example. “I will try to do well so others find the courage to replicate the business model,” she says.

You can help! MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need. Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South East Asia, Australia and New Zealand. These projects cover a range of activities, including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia. By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future. A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia. Donate your loose change onboard today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information. Your small change today could change a life tomorrow! JETSTAR.COM

*Funds raised in current financial year as of February 2018. Total raised since 2007.

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Explore Essentials I INTERVIEW I INFLIGHT

JETSTAR TURNS FOURTEEN

FUN WITH FACTS

A lot has changed since the Jetstar Group took to the skies for its first flight back in 2004

The Jetstar Group is made up of Jetstar Airways in Australia and New Zealand, Jetstar Asia in Singapore, Jetstar Pacific in Vietnam and Jetstar Japan.

Jetstar’s first flight took off from Newcastle on 25 May, 2004, touching down in Melbourne at 7.40am.

Jetstar has flown more than

250 million

35,000

travellers have joined the Jetstar Customer Panel to have their say on everything from new routes to on-board food and beverage options.

passengers since launching.

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The Jetstar fleet contains 131 aircraft.

In September last year Jetstar became the first Australian airline to offer Afterpay, allowing customers to pay for domestic flights booked online in instalments.

Jetstar was named ‘most vegan-friendly airline’ by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) at its 2017 Proggy Awards. Jetstar launched a vegan food menu in December last year – it was the first Australian airline to offer vegan meals for in-flight purchases.

Seven – the number of consecutive years Jetstar has taken out Australia-Pacific’s Best Low-Cost Airline in the annual Skytrax Awards.

Collectively the Jetstar Group offers more than 5000 flights a week to 85 destinations in 18 countries and territories across three continents.

Jetstar Japan is now the country’s largest low-cost carrier.

The Jetstar Group has grown from a staff of 400 people in 2004 to some 7600 across the Asia Pacific today.

8000

Roughly customer queries are handled each day by our helpful digital assistant Jess on Jetstar.com

Of more than 37 million fares sold by Jetstar last year, two thirds were for less than $100.

14 Did you know? Jetstar's symbol is based on Epsilon Crucis, the smallest star in the constellation known as the Southern Cross.

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou

Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou Hanoi Yangon Bangkok

Shantou

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Phnom Penh

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang 144 Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Phu Quoc

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Oita Kumamoto

Nha Trang Da Lat

Kagoshima

Miyazaki

Ho Chi Minh City

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon)

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Operated by Jetstar Airways

Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

145

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town

Wing it to Napier

147

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour. Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby. From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12. Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre. Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20.

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle. Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $59 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $49 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor. Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential). Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle. Adult $21, child $13; return:

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

adult $41, child $21. Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 148

15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25. TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon) TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: adult $32, child $26, return: $64. TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins

Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston.

Napier/Hawkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers. TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Newcastle 27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk. Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred). From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles. Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect. Tickets $15; return: $30. Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers. Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32.

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80. TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22. TransLink Bus 622. Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle. Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins. Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit. Adult $18, child $13. Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18. Bookings not required.

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

Kids puzzles

151

Puzzles

CROSSWORD

152

ACROSS

DOWN

1 What blankets were made with wheat bags and possibly hail from Wagga Wagga? (5,8) 8 Who gave King Arthur his sword, Excalibur? (4,2,3,4) 9 â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ebony and â&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;? (1982) Paul McCartney and Stevie Wonder (5) 10 Who owns the bar in The Simpsons? (3) 11 A two-person hand game: Odds and â&#x20AC;Ś (5) 12 The capital of Japan. (5) 13 Another word for hip-hop. (3) 14 The short name of Los Angeles. (2) 15 What is John Edward? (7) 16 Whereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Adelaide? (2) 18 Australian band who played â&#x20AC;&#x153;Need you tonightâ&#x20AC;? (1987)? (4) 19 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the national day of New Zealand? (8) 20 A type of dancing with four couples in a 'square'. (6,7)

1 Before mobile phones, what mobile electronic devices helped communication? (6-7) 2 An old expression of shock, possibly meaning â&#x20AC;&#x153;Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hooksâ&#x20AC;?? (8) 3 The members of which internet group wear a white mask when reading statements? (9) 4 Who sang â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tutti Fruttiâ&#x20AC;? (1955) and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Good Golly, Miss Mollyâ&#x20AC;? (1958)? (6,7) 5 What type of embroidery is yarn stitched though open-weave canvas? (11) 6 Ornamental shoulder pieces that are mostly worn on uniforms. (8) 7 What skill is needed to get wool from a sheep? (5,8) 15 Lasagne, farfalle, penne and fusilli are all types of what? (5) 17 The name of singer Rihannaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eighth album, released in 2016? (4)

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

EASY

Quiz

QUICK QUIZ Test your knowledge of South Australia with our quick quiz 1. Adelaide is also known as the city of 'what'?

9. Listed as a South Australian Heritage Icon by the National Trust of South Australia, the iconic Balfoursâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cake is shaped like what animal? 10. Responsible for pub-rock anthems such as "Cheap Wine" and "Flame Trees", which Australian rock band formed in Adelaide in the early â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s? 11. Peculiar to South Australia, a beer measurement of 200mL is known as a what? 12. The small South Australian town of Kingston SE is home to which of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Big Thingsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;? 13. Adelaide has Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest ratio of what per resident? A) Cars B) Shoe stores C) CafĂŠs and restaurants 14. Officially known as The Spheres, what is the spherical art installation in Adelaideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rundle Mall better known as?

A) Cronuts B) Churches C) Crows 2. What is the nickname of the Port Adelaide Football Club? 3. The old-school South Australian dish â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;pie floaterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; features a meat pie sitting in what? 4. In 2019, the Adelaide Central Market will celebrate which milestone? 5. The town of Coffin Bay on the Eyre Peninsula is famous for what seafood? 6. Which architect is credited for choosing the site upon which the city of Adelaide was established? 7. True or false â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Hills Hoist washing line was invented in Adelaide? 8. What are electricity poles called in South Australia?

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_B) Churches 2_The Power 3_Pea soup 4_Its 150-year anniversary 5_Oysters 6_Colonel William Light 7_True 8_Stobie pole 9_A frog 10_Cold Chisel 11_A butcher 12_The Big Lobster 13_C) CafĂŠs and restaurants 14_Mallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Balls

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Available on 787 seatback screens I MAY 2018 I Entertainment

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*Our Price Beat Guarantee will beat fares on competitor and third party sites by 10%. Conditions apply. 1Club Jetstar: AU$49 join fee. Ongoing AU$49.99 annual membership fee, waived for the first year. Member only fares for selected flights. Full T&Cs at jetstar.com/club-jetstar-terms 2Insurance products and services are provided by AIG Australia Limited, ABN 93 004 727 753, AFSL 381686, trading in Australia as AIG. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd, ABN 33 069 720 243 (Jetstar), is an authorised distributor of AIG in arranging this insurance. Jetstar is not authorised to provide any advice, opinion or recommendation regarding insurance or to bind any person on behalf of AIG. You should read and consider the Product Disclosure Statement and note the limitations and exclusions in the policy, in light of your personal circumstances, prior to making any decision to acquire the product. 3Afterpay is only available for bookings made in Australia for Jetstar Airways (JQ) domestic and international flights with a maximum total of $1,200 excluding the booking fee. A 1.5% non-refundable payment fee applies per booking. Available to Australian residents 18+ with a current debit or credit card. Full T&Cs at jetstar.com/afterpay-terms apply. 4Available for selected flight bookings and a $5 fee per transaction applies. Full T&Cs at jetstar.com/fareshare-terms 5Min 5,000 points per booking on Qantas and 3,500 points per booking on Jetstar must be redeemed. Full T&Cs at jetstar.com/ppp-terms

Available on 787 seatback screens I MOVIES & TV I Entertainment

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Star Wars: The Last Jedi

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The King’s Speech

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The saga continues as the heroes of The Last Jedi join the galactic legends in an epic adventure that unlocks age-old mysteries of the Force and shocking revelations of the past.

Despite his mellow temper, Ferdinand the bull is mistakenly chosen for Madrid’s bullfights.

King George VI gets help from an Australian speech and language therapist.

Snatched

The Spy Who Loved Me

The Disaster Artist

Chasing the Dragon (Cantonese language)

Paddington 2 The Shape of Water

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Elisa’s life is changed forever when she discovers a classified experiment.

Swinging Safari I, Tonya

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The legendary scandal of US figure skater Tonya Harding.

The Greatest Showman Jumanji: Welcome to the Jungle

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Justice League Coco

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Aspiring musician Miguel journeys to the magical land of his ancestors.

The Boss Baby Take Every Wave

Animation Documentary

Wonder

Drama

Only the Brave

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My Teacher (Japanese language)

Drama

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Star Wars: The Force Awakens Action GoldenEye

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The Iron Curtain has fallen, creating new challenges for James Bond.

The Croods

Animation

The Prestige

Drama

Goldfinger

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Rogue One: A Star Wars Story Action Bee Movie

Animation

Barry B. Benson, a bee and college graduate, is disillusioned with making honey.

Television COMEDY

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Modern Family

Seasons 5 & 8

Jay has grown children, grandchildren and a gorgeous young wife, who has a preteen son of her own; all together they must bridge generational, cultural and social gaps.

The Big Bang Theory

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The Leftovers

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Leonard and Sheldon are brilliant, socially awkward physicists.

In a global event dubbed The Departure, 140 million people suddenly disappeared.

Young Sheldon

Mr. Robot

Family Guy American Dad

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Season 1 Season 15

Animal Kingdom

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This Is Us

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Futurama

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Hard Sun

Season 1

People of Earth

Season 2

Riverdale

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The Last Man on Earth

Season 3

DC’s Legends Of Tomorrow

Season 2

157

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Available on 787 seatback screens I TV & AUDIO I Entertainment

Television LIFESTYLE & REALITY

KIDS

The Pacemakers

Star Wars Rebels

Season 3

Star vs. the Forces of Evil

The New Legends of Monkey

Season 1

The Tom and Jerry Show

The Lap of Tasmania

Lego Ninjago

Season 7

Peppa Pig

Handmde in Japan

Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy

Season 2

The Jetsons & WWE: Robo-Wrestlemania

The Insider: Reggie Yates

Season 2

Who Do You Think You Are?

Season 13

Journey To The West

Season 3

Scooby-Doo! Shaggy’s Showdown

Batman: Return of the Caped Crusaders

Stuck in the Middle

Disney Tsum Tsum

Season 2

159

Audio

Games

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Tetris Chess Bejeweled 2

Missy Lancaster

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Piece of Me War & Leisure

Various Artists

Fifty Shades Freed

Justin Timberlake

Man of the Woods

Justine Clarke

The Justine Clarke Show!

MUSIC VIDEOS

PNAU

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Taylor Swift Ft. Ed Sheeran & Future Justin Bieber Luke Bryan Sarah Blasko

Disney’s Classic Games End Game Love Yourself Crash My Party I Awake

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Act Yr Age

Liam Payne & Rita Ora For You (Fifty Shades Freed) Calum Scott

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Podcasts & radio Kennedy Molloy Jonsey & Amanda The Kyle & Jackie O Show Jase & PJ Will & Wood The Grill Team Breakfast with Em, Grant & Ed

PLUS MANY MORE AVAILABLE ONBOARD

Backpage I TRAVEL TALES

Flights of fancy Erika Mudie dreams of lives yet to be lived in distant backstreets and exotic suburbs

was versed in the area’s history and architecture and beloved by the local cats that roamed the neighbourhood. Naturally, I spiral into a month-long obsession on how to manifest these numerous fantasy lives. I research visas, rents and jobs, and casually take my husband’s temperature on how he’d feel about this lifestyle I’ve dreamed up. His hesitation never halts my deep dive.

the fleeting fixations always leave me with something special Language barriers are not a concern in these daydreams either. My obsession with living in Bangkok’s Thonglor area (as someone who does web design from a co-working space by the Chao Phraya River) led to an acquired knowledge of how to place nearly any coffee order I could think of in Thai.

These other selves might never come to fruition, but the fleeting fixations always leave me with something special. Whether it’s an itinerary for my next excursion to that neighbourhood, or a wider vocabulary, indulging the fantasies always renders me uplifted rather than frustrated.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

160

THERE’S A wonderful word on the website of the Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows – a compendium of terms invented to describe feelings without a dictionary definition. ‘Onism’ is the frustration of inhabiting one body that can only be in one place at a time. In other words, it’s the frustration of knowing there’s only so much of the world that you’ll see in a lifetime. Onism strikes me so often when I’m travelling. For me, the only salve is finding and exploring a neighbourhood within my destination that’s so delightful, I don’t feel I’m missing out. Time spent as an expat in Cambodia whet my appetite for life in foreign countries. However, the person I imagine myself being in these new favourite neighbourhoods varies wildly. Last year, after a few hours spent exploring Yanaka in Tokyo’s north east, I dreamed up a version of myself that spent hours every day at the local shōtengai (shopping street). I envisioned feeling so at home that I’d exclaim “ohisashiburi desu!” (long time, no see!) to familiar faces walking by. This new version of me

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