Jetstar October Magazine

jetstar MAGAZINE

OCTOBER 2016

MAGAZINE

MILK BARS I PERTH I SUNSHINE COAST I SINGAPORE INDIGENOUS TOURISM

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WHY TRAVELLERS CAN’T GET ENOUGH OF INDIGENOUS-LED TOURISM EXPERIENCES

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ON THE COVER: Quenten Agius, Aboriginal Cultural Tours. PHOTOGRAPHY: Greg Snell, copyright Tourism Australia.

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contents OCTOBER 2016

EXPERIENCE

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8 I WHAT’S ON

EXPLORE 56 I CORNER STORE An ode to suburban milk bars

10 I NEWS 14 I MY PLACE Lucy Lawless shares her favourite Auckland spots

17 I HOW-TO Bargain in Bali

19 I IMBIBE Cocktails in a can

20 I FOOD TREND

64-79 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Loving Western Australia

81 I COOKING COAST Feast on the Sunshine Coast

89 I ANCIENT STORIES Indigenous tourism renewed

95 I ISLAND OF GREEN Singapore’s urban jungles

Skip dinner and head straight to dessert

101 I WILD WANDERS

23 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

108 I CHIPPENDALE

Take a hike in Tasmania

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A Sydney suburb is reborn

Spend a day on the ‘Goldie’

117 I READY TO RUMBLE

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27 I SPRING MAKEOVER Great ideas for your home and garden

Get active on a live volcano

122 I SOUTHERN YARN A comedy duo take on Tassie

39 I SPA & WELLNESS Hepburn Springs’ heavenly hamman

42 I WORK & PLAY Businesses inspired by our furry friends

127 I NORTHERN GEMS Three reasons to visit NSW’s North Coast

176 I BACKPAGE Tales from row 57

45 I BEAUTY ON THE FLY Touch down looking fresh

46 I STYLE Get spring-racing ready

48 I SUITS YOU Say goodbye to old clothes

50 I HEALTH

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ESSENTIALS 146 I Jetstar news 152 I Where we fly

Cardio tennis is a fitness hit

157 I Games and puzzles

52 I RECIPE

165 I Entertainment

A taste of Greece from a Melbourne market favourite

guide

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Welcome I GROUP CEO

EDITORIAL

Jetstar means business

For all editorial enquiries, please email Jetstar@hardiegrant.com.au Account director Christine Dixon Managing editor, Jetstar My-Ngoc Tran Editor Justine Costigan Assistant editor Krysia Bonkowski Subeditors Leanne Tolra, Vanessa Mulquiney Art director Robert Bertagni Designer Natalie LaChina Picture editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Group Sales Director Sam Buchanan +61 2 9908 8222 or email sambuchanan@hardiegrant.com.au Sales Director Michele Carlon +61 3 8520 6444 or email michelecarlon@hardiegrant.com.au

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA Managing Director Fiona Hardie

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels JETSTAR MAGAZINE

is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia

PHOTO LAUREN BAMFORD, ALAMY

+61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com.au

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved.

Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015. Jetstar Magazine is printed by Offset Alpine Printing.

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We are always looking for ways to improve the service we offer our customers

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re you travelling for work or for pleasure today? While most of you are probably on your way to a holiday or a break to see family, you may be surprised that a growing number of customers fly on our network for business.

You will see commuters, tradespeople, professionals and executives, all looking for great value and a simple, fast experience through the airport. They check-in online and use our app to stay updated on their journey.

They choose us because we offer good flight frequencies between important business hubs such as Sydney, Singapore, Auckland and Melbourne; check-

in is quick with our straight-togate mobile boarding pass; and our app updates you on the go.

These savvy travellers are looking for value when they fly – but need some flexibility if work plans change at the last minute.

So we’ve introduced FlexiBiz, a new product for business customers which provides just that, as well as some extras on board.

From as little as $29, a FlexiBiz bundle includes same day flight moves, seat selection, an extra item of carry-on baggage, a credit voucher if you need to cancel your flight, and no fees for date, time and name changes. FlexiBiz is available on both our domestic and international flights.

Customers travelling for business can now purchase a FlexiBiz fare bundle through our Business Hub on Jetstar.com.

I’m really proud that we now offer a product that supports small and medium size businesses to grow and achieve their goals.

We are always looking for ways to improve the service we offer our customers, and this is just another example.

Happy travels,

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Jayne Hrdlicka Jetstar Group CEO

It’s wildflowers season in W.A. see page 79

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Evan doesn’t like waiting, but who does? Experience Redspot service for yourself.

“We were in the car within 15 minutes. Now, that’s great service!”

Call 1300 668 810 or go to redspot.com.au

Driven by you.

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*Quote the code JETSTAR to receive 15% discount on time and kilometres.

Redspot customer review provided by Trustpilot.

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Explore I INTERVIEW

Getaway

Visiting Bethells Beach is one of Lucy Lawless’ favourite Auckland adventures. Find out the Xena star’s other picks on page 14.

PHOTO ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

Organise your own fundraising event during mental health week (9-15 October)

October

Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Byron Bay International Film Festival 14-23 October Byron Bay, New South Wales

Melbourne Festival 6-23 October Melbourne, Victoria

Immerse yourself in the arts with an array of free and ticketed events encompassing theatre, dance, visual arts and music, including a symphonic rendition of David Bowie’s ballads and heart-starting performances from flamenco master Sara Baras. festival.melbourne

Celebrating a decade of thought-provoking cinema, the 10th BBFF promises to be bigger and better than ever, with open-air screenings on the beachfront, augmented reality experiments and master classes for the next generation of talent. bbff.com.au

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Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 26-30 October Ubud, Bali

Reef Feast 6-9 October Palm Cove, Queensland Tropical North Queensland’s favourite culinary event promises fun and feasting with open-air entertainment, markets and local chefs dishing up produce plucked fresh from the Coral Sea, rainforests and tablelands. reeffeast.com.au

Adelaide Fashion Festival 19-23 October Adelaide, South Australia With runway shows from top designers, exclusive precinct sales and markets showcasing up-and-coming talent, it’s the perfect excuse to prep your summer wardrobe. adelaidefashionfestival. com.au

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Art Expo Nelson 22-24 October Nelson, New Zealand

Sunny Nelson has become known as one of New Zealand’s most vibrant arts hubs, with more than 300 artists calling the area home. From glasswork to weaving, see the best of it at Art Expo Nelson this Labour Day long weekend. artexponelson.co.nz

Started by Australian expat Janet DeNeefe in 2004, this intimate festival has become one of South-East Asia’s most respected literary gatherings, attracting thinkers and scribblers from across the globe. ubudwritersfestival.com

PHOTOGRAPHY MELBOURNE FESTIVAL, MATT OLDFIELD, TONY LEWIS,

SOUTH EAST ASIA

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

Making Modernism

12 October - 19 February, 2017 Bulleen, Victoria

Awesome Festival 1-14 October Perth, Western Australia

Melbourne’s Heide museum brings together the works of iconic American Modernist painter Georgia O’Keeffe with her Australian peers Margaret Preston and Grace Cossington Smith for a landmark exhibit. Making Modernism will then journey to the Queensland Art Gallery (11 March-11 June, 2017) and Art Gallery of New South Wales (1 July – 1 October, 2017). heide.com.au

The Awesome International Arts Festival for Bright Young Things draws kids under 12 into the world of the arts through hands-on programs at the Perth Cultural Centre that will have imaginations working overtime. awesomearts.com

It’s a great month to…

RAISE a stein at Oktoberfest at one of the many beer-themed events across Australia and New Zealand.

WALK the Bondi to Coogee trail and check out the annual Sculpture by the Sea exhibition.

BEAT the summer crowds in Tasmania. Many adventure tours start up again this month after the winter break. For a preview of Tassie’s best walks, see page 101.

Alice Springs Masters Games 8-15 October Alice Springs, Northern Territory Fondly known as ‘The Friendly Games’, this bi-annual celebration of sportsmanship marks its 30th year. alicespringsmastersgames. com.au

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Grace Cossington Smith, Landscape at Pentecost, 1929.

The Eighth Wonder 28 October – 5 November Sydney, New South Wales

Sydney’s iconic Opera House has a history as dramatic as any stage production. Experience it over five nights as her steps become an extravagant open-air theatre for Alan John’s contemporary Australian operatic retelling of the building of the Sails. opera.org.au

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Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

Q&A with Barrie Kosky WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

Why Saul?

I studied Saul as part of my degree at the University of Melbourne. It’s sung often in Germany, and was performed by the Komische Oper before my time. I love the piece even more now than when I started.

Why does Saul resonate?

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Thanks for choosing to fly with us today – it’s great to have you on board.

We all know having a holiday to look forward to puts a spring in our step.

In the past, families might have planned all year for one big trip, whether it was visiting relatives interstate, or going on an exciting overseas adventure.

When Jetstar took to the sky things changed. With our everyday low fares, you can afford to get away more than once a year and explore further than ever before.

You could be flying to any of our 80 unique destinations today.

Our destination of the month is Perth, the jewel of Australia’s West Coast. Find out more about its vibrant food and bar scene, and expanding cultural precincts from page 64.

And there’s nothing like getting off the beaten track to really feel like you’re taking time out from the rat race.

Check out our stories on some of the best Indigenous-led tourism experiences in Australia on page 89 and read about Mount Ruapehu, the largest active volcano in New Zealand, on page 117, for some inspiration.

Enjoy your flight today and we hope to see you again soon to discover your newest favourite destination.

Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

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It may be opera, but not as you know it. Handel’s Saul gets a Barrie Kosky makeover, with stunning results.

Acclaimed Australian theatre and opera director and Director of Berlin’s Komische Oper, Barrie Kosky brings his production of George Frideric Handel’s Saul from England’s Glyndebourne Festival to the Adelaide Festival next year.

The story of the first King of Israel, Saul is a dramatic tale of politics, envy, family dysfunction, passion, madness and violence, staged with lavish costumes and detailed, opulent scenery. Barrie’s first opera production in Australia since 2001, Saul has garnered rave reviews, with critics describing the production as “utterly enthralling” and “ravishing”. We spoke to Barrie ahead of Saul’s 2017 Australian debut.

Saul cast members on stage at Glyndebourne.

Is the production set in biblical times?

The production is set in the Baroque, but its not historically accurate. And I don’t think Handel’s top priority was biblical oratorio, he was more interested in human emotion.

What was the response to the premiere of the opera at Glyndebourne?

It was phenomenal. It sold out every performance and the English audience – not renowned for over-the-top displays of emotion – were stomping their feet on the theatre’s wooden floor!

The Adelaide Festival runs from 3-19 March, 2017. Saul will be performed at the Festival Theatre on 3,5,7 and 9 March. Full details of the 2017 festival program will be announced on 27 October. adelaidefestival.com.au PHOTO DEAN GOLJA, BILL COOPER, FELIX DROBEK-TRUESDALE, IKEA

Welcome

These biblical stories are ingrained in Western culture.

Even if you’re not a believer, the stories are embedded. And Handel gives you wave after wave of emotion.

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Experience I NEWS

Awardwinning design MYANMAR

Inner Sanctum After a soft opening earlier this year, Myanmar’s newest luxury hotel, the Sanctum at Inle Lake, officially opens this month, happily coinciding with the timing of this year’s Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival. Designed to offer guests a contemplative approach to travel, the hotel is in a lush garden setting by the lake and has a refined style, inspired by the many Buddhist cloisters in the region.

Located at Maing Thauk Village, which is part set over water, the hotel can be approached by land and boat, and has its own private jetty.

Inle Lake has rapidly become one of Myanmar’s most popular destinations, offering a glimpse of simple rural life, as well as the famous floating gardens and Buddhist pagodas that dot the countryside. sanctum-inle-resort.com

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TRAVEL

Pedal power IKEA’s unisex SLADDA bike is destined to be a favourite with commuters.

SLADDA is chainless, relying on a drive-belt Ikea says will last two to three times longer than the average chain. The bike has a hint of vintage style with accessories including a cute front basket, panniers, a towing trailer and bike bag. It’s also low-maintenance and light, and comes with a 25-year warranty on the frame. Available at IKEA from November.

RRP$799. ikea.com/au

ARMCHAIR ADVENTURES Books to inspire your travels

Created by illustrators Sonny Day and Biddy Maroney, Sydney Word by Word celebrates everything that’s great about the city from its famous zoo and Luna Park to the colour and life of Chinatown. In a graphic visual style with one word describing each page, the book is a charming souvenir of the city and great way to prompt a conversation with your child about your Sydney travels. Also in the series: Melbourne Word By Word, illustrated by Michael McMahon.

RRP $29.99 Hardie Grant Egmont, hardiegrant.com.au

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Experience I NEWS

FOOD TREND

VEGAN ENVY WORDS LARISSA DUBECKI

We’re loving 12

This unique turntable by US company Gramovox is a stunner. Hand-assembled in Chicago, it plays records vertically, adding a visual dimension to your listening experience. With vinyl sales on the increase (up 80 per cent in Australia this year) maybe its time ditch your old record player and invest in a turntable worth showing off ?

RRP $699, thesoundofvinyl.com.au

THE GOOD DAYS’ pho has shiitake and kombu mushroom stock with fungi and pickled onion.

165 Sydney Road, Brunswick, Melbourne good-days.com.au GIGI PIZZERIA gave up meat last year but you can still get a wood-fired pizza that adheres to the strict standards of the Associazone Verace Pizza Napoletana, AKA the pizza police.

379 King Street, Newtown, Sydney gigipizzeria.com.au

Back to the future

MUSIC

Ones to try

Pity the vegans no more.

People eschewing meat and all its associated products have been a culinary punchline since the discovery of fire, but with almost half a million Australians now identifying as vegan, they’re climbing out of the cheesecloth ghetto. Proving that ethical eating doesn’t mean stomach-numbingly boring, a growing number of upmarket or just plain hip vegan restaurants make it a trend to watch. Properly trained chefs are turning

GREEN EDGE Indulge in delicious vegan meals and restock your pantry at the grocer.

Shop 2B, 229 Lutwyche Road, Windsor, Brisbane greenedgeonline.com.au their powers to the creation of food that’s both guilt-free and delicious, plus we’re also witnessing the Prius effect, where menu hybrids prove vegan and ethical meat dishes can happily coexist. In this instance, baby, everyone’s a winner.

IMBIBE

Wine retailer Dan Murphy’s swish new Melbourne cellar is an elegant temple to wine, whisky and spirits.

Celebrating small producers and regionality, more than 3000 products and 250 Australian winemakers are represented in the collection.

282 Chapel Street, Prahran danmurphyscellar.com.au

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The Prahran store c.1984

PHOTOGRAPHY STATE LIBRARY OF VICTORIA

Basement beauty

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Step Up! All Jetstar passengers can enjoy a free upgrade on us.

Simply quote Jetstar when booking with Thrifty Car Rentals before 21 December 2016.*

thrifty.com.au

1300 367 227

Thrifty Counter

*Rent a Thrifty ECAR/ECMR, CCAR, ICAR, SCAR or FCAR vehicle to receive a complimentary upgrade. Valid booking period between 1 September 2016 and 21 December 2016. Valid for Travel period between 1 September 2016 and 21 December 2016. Vehicle must be returned by 21 December 2016. Minimum 2 day rental. Must quote ‘Jetstar’ at time of booking. Available at selected locations in Australia only. Offer is subject to availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion, special offer, coupon, corporate discounted rate or for existing bookings.

Drivers must meet the standard age, driver’s licence and credit requirements of Thrifty. Excess charges will apply for items such as Credit Card Surcharges (1.5%) and optional extras. All rentals are subject to the terms and conditions of the rental agreement.

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12/09/2016 2:36 PM

Experience I MY PLACE

KIWI SOUL Despite finding global success on the big and small screens, New Zealand actress Lucy Lawless will always call Auckland home WORDS PAUL EWART

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cult hero thanks to her star-turn as Xena in the ’90s swordswinging, global TV sensation, Xena: Warrior Princess, actress Lucy Lawless also has proved her acting prowess with lead roles in Spartacus and Battlestar Galactica and the hit US TV comedy Parks and Recreation. With a string of other movies under her belt, the talented actress could have easily made the move to Tinseltown, but international success hasn’t swayed her from her Kiwi roots.

We asked the busy actress to reveal a few of her favourite Auckland haunts.

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12/09/2016 2:38 PM

Experience I MY PLACE

FINGERS

PHOTOGRAPHY AUCKLAND TOURISM, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

My favourite view is down on the viaduct - it’s where the city meets the ocean FEDERAL DELICATESSEN

UNITY BOOKS

86 Federal Street thefed.co.nz This is my favourite restaurant – everything is so damned delicious! It’s kind of JewishAmerican cuisine, serving latkes and the like. The place is open all day, although it really caters to a late-night clientele. They serve drinks in 1950s jars, so it’s a bit trendy, though – unlike most hipster hangouts – the staff are very friendly. I remember being in New York at the Soho Grand or similar and hipster staff were all too cool, sneering at customers. Not here though.

19 High Street unitybooks.nz This is my favourite shop. You can get all the best and newest books here – everything from books to keep my teenage kids entertained, through to Philosophy for Dummies for me. I also love flicking through the beautiful, big architecture books. You can feel the knowledge and brilliance all around you and you kind of hope that some of it will go into you by osmosis. I always walk out with way more books than I can ever hope to read.

HOTEL DEBRETT

Viaduct Harbour Ave viaduct.co.nz My favourite view is down on the viaduct – it’s where the city meets the ocean. The other day I was waiting for one of my kids and walked across the viaduct. I turned around to walk back towards the city and there was an enormous yellow moon, which hit me in the eye … like a big pizza pie, and I fell in love with the city all over again.

2 High Street hoteldebrett.com Auckland’s CBD is my main hangout and I do a lot of my living there. While I’ve recently been doing the Whole30 diet, after months of being dairy and wheat-free, I’m now appreciating a cocktail or two!

My favourite bar is the Art Deco-inspired, Cornerbar [at the Hotel DeBrett]. I’m very partial to their whisky sours.

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VIADUCT HARBOUR

2 Kitchener St fingers.co.nz Funnily enough, the place that inspires me the most is a jewellery store. It’s even more odd as I don’t really buy a lot of jewellery, or wear it, for that matter, but I love looking at it.

I’m always struck by the fact that the creator of each piece has really put their heart, soul and time into these works of art. Everything is a tiny manifestation of someone’s creativity.

UNIVERSITY OF AUCKLAND Auckland 1010 auckland.ac.nz This place really means a lot to me. I love that desire for knowledge – it excites me so much. I even came back a couple of years ago and took a few papers. I also really like the bookshop on campus. I’m weirdly attracted to stationery and for some reason find it very appealing – all of those colourful pieces of paper – there’s something so clean about it.

BETHELL’S BEACH Auckland I took a young American friend out to Bethells Beach, which is on the west coast of

Keep up-to-date with Lucy on instagram

15 Auckland, the other day. While most people don’t tend to swim there, especially if there aren’t lifesavers around, as the currents are pretty dangerous, it’s a really beautiful spot. The beach is black sand and it’s really moody and dramatic.

It’s also one of the places where we used to shoot Xena, so a lot of the people who worked on the show live nearby. In the summer there’s a wonderful caravan that has been converted into a kitchen and café. You can order lovely pizzas and other fabulous food. It’s a great Kiwi summer experience.

Lucy was a guest at Oz Comic-Con this year. ozcomiccon.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Auckland from across the network.

lucylawles FOLLOW: @real

s

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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Experience I HOW-TO

HOW TO

BARGAIN IN BALI Market shopping in Bali is an experience like no other.

Here are our tips on how to haggle like a local WORDS STEPHANIE BROOKES

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here is no doubt Bali is a shopper’s paradise but how do you know if you are getting a good deal? Many people feel awkward bargaining with the locals, especially if they are not used to it, but in Bali bargaining is a way of life.

It’s fun engaging with the seller and the more you can joke around the better!

Remember to have fun with it!

Where can I bargain?

In the main markets of Kuta, Seminyak, Sanur and Ubud, and all the small side-street markets. Nothing has a price tag and, unlike department stores and supermarkets, you should haggle for your wares.

PHOTOGRAPH & ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

When to bargain?

For Indonesian vendors, haggling with customers (locals or visitors) is a way of life, so leave your guilt or feelings of discomfort at the door: market life is eccentric and vendors have sharpened skills on how to read a customer. For first-timers, it’s best to go shopping before noon when the bargains are at their best. If you go late in the afternoon around closing, the vendors are pretty tired and sometimes there’s little

6 simple steps

motivation to negotiate the best price for both parties.

How much should I pay?

How long does the process take?

How can I make the experience fun for everyone?

What’s the etiquette?

Look at the haggling process as entertainment. Essentially, it’s a game of to and fro between a buyer and the seller. It’s about finding the middle ground

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become aggressive. Just be polite and say it’s more than you planned to spend. Always leave with a big smile and show respect.

between an outrageous price and a fair price. If both parties are happy, you have a deal.

The asking price will always be overinflated, hence the need to haggle. Sellers will read buyers quickly and ascertain how well off they are, then establish the starting price. No matter what the price is, offer 50 per cent lower and work up from there.

Throw in some humour, offer a laugh or two and try to get on well with the seller.

How do I close the deal?

How long is a piece of string?

Haggling for an item takes as long as you want it to. If you’re lucky, it could take just five minutes to agree on a price, other times it could take 20 minutes of leaving and being encouraged back to the stall by the seller.

Closing a deal from the seller’s point of view means they have made a profit, and they try for around 30 per cent, which covers the running and staffing costs of the business.

Travel info

Balinese people value politeness highly. If you are getting frustrated with the bargaining process, they will feel this. Walking away for a breather is fine; it’s very unusual for the sellers to

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Jetstar has great low fares to Bali from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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TO SHOP LIKE A LOCAL

choose

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decide

offer price

walk away

final price

sold

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O U Y R T S A ELF E R T TO ONE OF THESE

HOT NEW READS

Unleash your inner writer with advice from the Queen of storytelling herself! Learn from the best in this charming book full of tips and tricks from Jane Austen’s books and le ers.

In an intimate portrayal of Claude Monet’s life, delve behind the tragic sadness and obsession that led him to create one of the great artworks of our time – his Water Lilies.

Is there anything cuter than guinea pigs dressed up in waistcoats and hats? This adorable book will have you asking: “please sir, can I have some more?”

Need a creativity boost? Let the one and only, Elizabeth Gilbert inspire you to live a fuller, more creative life! With tips from Liz’s own life, she can help you conquer anything!

@BloomsburySyd BloomsburyPublishingAustralia

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OUT NOW! 12/09/2016 2:39 PM

Experience I IMBIBE

THE CAN-DO PRE-MIXED DRINKS GET A HIGH-END MAKEOVER AS BARS PUT A LID ON IT

Try it here

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

CONTINENTAL DELI Newtown, Sydney Claim a high stool at the marble bar with a Mar-tinny and plate of Jamón Serrano, and imagine you’re propped up in a hole-in-the-wall in Barcelona’s backstreets. continentaldelicatessen. com.au

HEARTBREAKER

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

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a new clutch of cocktails in cans and bottles has evolved far beyond the Ready to Drink (RTD) alcopops of teen parties.

Sydney’s Continental Deli, Bar & Bistro took its love for hand-canned goods a step further when they whacked a lid on two iconic cocktails. The Mar-tinny and Can-hatten have become signature sips; with Warhol-inspired tins an Insta dream.

“Everyone has loved the novelty factor … and we’ve found that you certainly can’t overestimate the value of a good pun,” says Bar manager Mikey Nicolian.

“Canning the drinks also offers a level of quality control that you can’t guarantee with a madeto-order drink,” he says.

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“I can batch them up, and be sure that every drink is of consistent quality.”

In a cheeky nod to a super-sweet RTD, Surry Hills’ Dead Ringer pre-batches its Yuzu Breezer in a bottle sporting a familiar batwinged logo. “Bacardi Breezers have actually been discontinued in Australia,” says co-owner Tim Philips. “But it was a favourite drink of mine when I was younger, so

we came up with a more contemporary version, with a more developed palate.” The refreshing blend of rum, citric plum liqueur and soda is certainly all grown up.

Tim believes there’s a niche for high-end RTDs. “Drinks that rely on good spirits, fortified wines and bitterness are a definite improvement on sugary, boozy soft drinks that the market is already flooded with,” he says.

Melbourne’s The Everleigh has joined the RTD brigade in style with its Famous Four small-batch cocktails – Martini, Negroni, Manhattan and the Old Fashioned. “Our mission was to manufacture our cocktails to the exact same standard of those ordered at the bar,” says Zara Young.

Melbourne CBD With a rock’n’roll jukebox, vinyl booths and classic cocktails ready at the twist of a screw cap, The Everleigh’s little sibling is a rollicking good time.

Watch out for the release of the venue’s own RTDs. heartbreakerbar.com.au

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DEAD RINGER Surry Hills, Sydney Score one of the long wooden tables on the sunny terrace for a long lunch of seasonal bites, paired with a Yuzu Breezer of course. deadringer.wtf The Famous Four were initially served at sister bar Heartbreaker, but can now be found in a range of Victorian stockists, as well as Palace Cinemas, with plans to expand the range nationally.

For a seriously glam picnic, tuck an Everleigh Negroni in your hamper and banish the alcopop phantoms for good.

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Experience I FOOD TREND

dessert FIRST

ARE YOU ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE WHO SKIPS STRAIGHT TO THE DESSERT MENU? WELL, NOW THERE’S NO REASON TO WAIT WORDS SARAH GAMBONI

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lame it on the MasterChef effect or Instagram’s drool-worthy feeds, but we’re no longer satisfied with a simple sticky date pud at the end of our meal; we want spheres, gels and tempered chocolate, artfully arranged and ready for its close-up.

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Even the most basic of sweet indulgences, ice cream, has been pimped up, available in a dizzying array of flavours and toppings (warm Nutella on tap, anyone?).

Dessert for dinner?

Melbourne pastry chef Pierre Roelofs was ahead of the game when he launched Dessert

Evenings six years ago.

Each Thursday night at Brunswick East’s Milkwood, Pierre and his team host a delicious four-course dessert degustation (A$55). Just like a savoury tasting menu, Pierre’s multicourse marvel balances flavours, weight and textures. “I look at it as a complete meal, starting

Pierre’s multicourse marvel balances flavours, weight and textures

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Experience I FOOD TREND

Five to try The Dessert Studies’ Tower Dessert with gingerbread, blackberry and chocolate.

BELOW: The Desert Dessert

by The Dessert Studies references the flavours of India. FAR RIGHT: Messina Creative Department’s purple basil and beetroot vinegar granita.

with a light course, a crowd-pleaser of tropical, fruity flavours in the middle, and something more experimental to finish,” says Pierre. He also runs The Dessert Studies, an ongoing collaborative project with local creatives.

Take the cake At Burch & Purchese in Melbourne’s South Yarra, MasterChef regular Darren Purchese creates mind-blowing cakes and rainbow-hued dessert tubes, perhaps a reimagined lamington, or a crisp blend of coconut, passionfruit, ginger and mint. “I opened Burch & Purchese because I wanted dessert to be at the forefront of everyone’s mind. I was at the start of a huge explosion for all things sweet in Australia,” says Darren. “Desserts are a reward, and if people indulge they want great quality.”

A little taste of India on a plate.

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ADELAIDE Steven ter Horst Satisfy late-night sugar cravings with elegant cakes, tarts and truffles, or gather a group for the three-metre dessert degustation. steventerhorst.com.au AUCKLAND Milse Enjoy avant-garde gelato, inventive tasting menus and French dessert wine, plus artful gateaux to go. milse.co.nz SINGAPORE 2am Dessert Bar Sweet dips its toe into savoury territory at Janice Wong’s experimental eatery. Think basil and white chocolate foam with black pepper, salted plum, passionfruit and coconut.

Now in Tokyo, too.

2amdessertbar.com

MELBOURNE Om Nom At the Adelphi Hotel, whimsical desserts are teamed with cutting-edge cocktails. omnom.kitchen SYDNEY KOI Dessert Bar Sample 2015 MasterChef alumni Reynold Poernomo’s ethereal creations at this sleek eatery. We’re talking spheres, soils, gels and all that jazz. koidessertbar.com.au

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Serious scoops Our taste in ice cream is also increasingly sophisticated. Italianstyle offerings are up for grabs at award-winning Cow and The Moon in Sydney (named world’s best gelato makers in 2014 for their almond affogato flavour), or Pidapipo in Melbourne (home of the Nutella fountain).

Adelaide boy, Nick Palumbo, who opened the first Gelato Messina in Darlinghurst in 2002, has 13 stores to his name (including one in Las Vegas). Nick’s new venture, the Messina Creative Department, opened in April. At an intimate table for eight, chef Donato Toce serves seven boundary-pushing

dessert courses that “flirt with savoury”. Think almond gelato with potato, brown butter cream, porcini crisp and caviar. It’s a trip.

Sweet meets savoury Balancing sweet and savoury flavours is nothing new in Asia, where desserts have long centred on grains, vegetables and legumes.

Taiwanese dessert chain Meet Fresh, now in Australia, nails the sweetsavoury balance perfectly, with taro balls, herbal jellies and silken tofu puddings. Melbourne’s Dessert Story offers these specialties along with Hong Kong staples such as glutinous rice dumplings. It’s the perfect excuse to skip dinner.

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Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

24 HOURS IN

QUEENSLAND

Gold Coast

GOLD COAST This sun-kissed Queensland city is shaking off its party reputation and celebrating a natural high through yoga, surfing and relaxed dining WORDS SARAH GAMBONI

SUNRISE

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, BSKT, QT HOTEL

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Gold Coast beach views; Catching some waves and rays; A yoga class at BSKT; The Bazaar Marketplace at QT Hotel, Surfers Paradise; Breakfast feast at BSKT.

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For many Australians, seeing the sun rise on the Gold Coast was a rite of passage during Schoolies Week. Today, you can salute the sun in a more salubrious fashion with a 6am yoga class at BSKT Café, overlooking Mermaid Beach.

Follow up your downward dogs with berry-cacao pancakes and a superfood smoothie in the café. Or take advantage of your early start with a trip to the Gold Coast Fishermen’s Co-op at Main Beach to buy crabs, prawns and Moreton Bay bugs straight off the trawlers.

Get in quick as they sell out by mid-morning. bskt.com.au freshestcatch.com.au

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BREAKFAST More of a late riser? Roll out of bed at the coastal-chic QT Hotel in Surfers Paradise and straight into brunch at Bazaar. Pile your plate with eggs Benedict, waffles and flaky pastries, paired with a glass of sparkling wine at the sumptuous buffet. They do a mean lunch on Sundays, too. qthotelsandresorts.com/ gold-coast/eat-drink/bazaar/

MORNING Make the most of the Gold Coast’s 57 kilometres of beaches and idyllic year-round weather with a Get Wet Surf lesson. If you’re keen to explore the region’s maze of calm-water canals, paddle along the Broadbeach Waters with Kayak the Gold Coast. getwetsurf.com kayakthegoldcoast.com.au

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Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

Currumbin Beach Vikings Surf Life Saving Club. BELOW: Cuddle a koala at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary; Sample toothfish at The Fish House; A Hampton’s vibe at Justin Lane.

Check out the stunning view!

LUNCH

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AFTERNOON

DINNER

Nearby, get your Australian native fauna fix at the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary or the David Fleay Wildlife Park in West Burleigh, where kids can cuddle koalas and spy crocodiles. For something more sedate, put your credit card through its paces at the revamped Pacific Fair at Broadbeach, home to luxe labels such as Chanel and Christian Louboutin, plus highstreet favourites. cws.org.au nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/ david-fleay/ pacificfair.com.au

Book ahead for dinner at The Fish House, Burleigh Heads. This polished performer promises assured service, a global wine list, and a Medleaning menu that showcases sustainable seafood, simply prepared. Order the tasting menu with matched wines for the full experience. thefishhouse.com.au

DRINKS Just around the corner, the rooftop bar at Justin Lane channels the Hamptons, with striped awnings, white timber, rum-spiked cocktails and an endless-summer vibe. justinlane.com.au

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to the Gold Coast from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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PHOTOGRAPHY CURRUMBIN BEACH VIKINGS SURF CLUB, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, THE FISH HOUSE, JUSTIN LANE

Dust off the sand for lunch at Currumbin Beach Vikings Surf Life Saving Club. Set above the waves at Elephant Rock, the sun-drenched terrace offers Insta-worthy views of the Pacific Ocean and Surfers Paradise skyscrapers. The seafood platter is one of the best on the coast. supporters.currumbinslsc. com.au

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Pacific Fair is open 7 days a week and conveniently located in the heart of the Gold Coast across from G:link Broadbeach South Station.

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Introducing my new Real Living range.

Inspired by my love for hardwearing, affordable and family friendly design, it’s perfect for the way we live today.

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Experience I HOME

“Inspiration

for me comes in many different forms – art, design, architecture, interiors, fashion.”

Designer Rae Maxwell More on page 29.

Homewares & outdoor living Give your home and garden a makeover this spring with our inspirational style guide 29-30 I INTERIOR TRENDS Need a new look? We’ve got loads of ideas

33 I GOING GREEN It’s time to bring the outdoors in

34 I KITCHEN WISHLIST Inspiration for stylish home cooks

36 I JUST FOR KIDS Creating a big impact for little people

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12/09/2016 2:43 PM

Spring/Summer COLLECTION SHOP ONLINE OR VISIT YOUR LOCAL STORE

CHARLIE 3 seater sofa in aurora fabric SCALLOP coffee table

www.ozdesignfurniture.com.au

NSW/ACT - AUBURN, BELROSE, NOW OPEN CAMPBELLTOWN, CASTLE HILL, CARINGBAH, CROWS NEST, GOSFORD, FYSHWICK, HOMEBUSH, KOTARA, LIVERPOOL, MOORE PARK, NOW OPEN PENRITH, PORT MACQUARIE, WOLLONGONG. VIC - BENDIGO, ESSENDON, GEELONG, HOPPERS CROSSING, MORNINGTON, NOW OPEN NARRE WARREN, NORTHLAND, NUNAWADING, RICHMOND. QLD - GOLD COAST BUNDALL, BRISBANE FORTITUDE VALLEY, NOW OPEN MACGREGOR, SUNSHINE COAST MAROOCHYDORE.

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12/09/2016 2:43 PM

K,

2017 forecast

Rae Maxwell, founder of online furniture and homewares store Barnaby Lane, shares her interior design predictions WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BARNABY LANE; STYLING FENTON & FENTON, PHOTO ARNELLE HABIB

c e

Experience I HOME

What can we expect to see in stores this spring and summer?

At Barnaby Lane we try to ensure that we design furniture that can transcend the trends.

However, I think we will see more of what we call the “naturalist” style, which incorporates whites, clean minimalist themes, use of natural materials such as timber and rattan, earthy tones (terracotta, desert tones and earthy greens) and bringing the outdoors in either through architectural design or mimicking the outdoors with the use of indoor plants. I believe that simplicity is the key, then you should add your own personality. That’s what creates a beautiful home.

Get inspired

Its never been easier to find inspiration. Check out these great Instgrammers for a daily dose of design. @fenton_and_fenton for global inspiration (above) @bonnieandneil for richly decorative textiles @thedesignfiles for trendsetters and stylemakers @templeandwebster for access to exclusive sales @jardanfurniture for stylish handcrafted pieces

I believe that simplicity is the key, then you should add your own personality Where do you find inspiration?

Inspiration for me comes in many different forms – art, design, architecture, interiors, fashion.

Travelling constantly and witnessing different cultures also offers inspiration. I also prefer to start with natural materials and then design from that. This process can provide us with something beautiful and those pieces can really create a room.

Which style do you love the most?

I love Scandi/Nordic themes, particularly muted tones such as grey, blush, rose pinks, copper and marble. In our next range expect to see a lot more use of metals – iron and aluminium with leather and canvas seats.

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Any tips for buying key furniture pieces?

Find the furniture that you love and design the room around that.

Furniture should last a long time, so I think it’s worth investing in something that can fit with different styles. barnabylane.com.au

OND. E.

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Experience I HOME

Get the look

Get this season’s look with classic pieces in sumptuous natural materials with accents of copper and marble

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Make a statement in blush pink

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1. LORRAINE LEA Ezra queen quilt cover set, $179, lorrainelea.com 2. OZ DESIGN FURNITURE Sly floor lamp in black, $279, ozdesignfurniture.com.au 3. FREEDOM Caliente planters in copper, from $29.95, freedom.com.au 4. KMART Chain knit throw, $25, kmart.com.au 5. HOME REPUBLIC Dane side table in marble, $129.95, adairs.com.au 6. FREEDOM Clifford three-seat sofa in charme natural, $3299, freedom.com.au 7. CARPET COURT Shelley Craft’s Real Living flooring range, various prices, carpetcourt.com.au 8. OZ DESIGN FURNITURE Astrid cushion in rose, $59.95, ozdesignfurniture.com.au 9. BARNABY LANE Fenwick dining chair in blush natural, $419, barnabylane.com.au 10. PGT RECLAIMED Woodenforge round dining table, prices vary, pgt-reclaimed.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY FLAUNTER

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Visit shopinside.com.au to browse thousands of products online for bed, bath, kitchen, living, kids and baby. A trusted online store showcasing quality homewares from the best brands with secure online ordering, fast delivery and “a peace-of-mind, money-back-guarantee”. Experience unbeatable real customer service today!

Shop online today and use coupon code “JETSTAR” for a further 10% off sitewide including sale items. Valid during October 2016, cannot be used with any other offer. Featured designs by Bambury.

shop online: www.shopinside.com.au 03 9931 0160 | Whs 3, 347-349 Old Geelong Road Hoppers Crossing Vic 3029

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Experience I HOME

The green revolution Whether you’re embracing your backyard or bringing the outdoors in, there’s never been a better time to go green WORDS BRONWYN JONES

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WONA BAE AND CHARLIE LAWLER

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1. FREEDOM Quadro stool, $99, freedom.com.au 2. LEPAAR Gardenlust luxe hose in lavender, $250, madebytait.com.au 3. WEST ELM Mid-century standing planter in pool, $299, westelm.com.au 4. BYRON BAY HANGING CHAIR 1970s love seat, $695, byronbayhangingchairs.com.au 5. LOOSE LEAF, $45, hardiegrant.com.au 6. HOME REPUBLIC Succulents in cement pots, from $24.95, adairs. com.au 7. BERNABEI FREEMAN Bloom planter in sunshine, $180, madebytait.com.au

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Insider style

Wona Bae and Charlie Lawler’s Melbourne nursery Loose Leaf isn’t your typical suburban plant store.

Described in Wona and Charlie’s new book as “a greenhouse gallery” and “a gathering of plants”, Loose Leaf offers an inspired re-thinking about how to bring nature into your life from creating works of art using plants, seeds and sticks to adding an element of botanical design to your home.

“For us it’s about creating a connection to nature indoors. There is also growing evidence that access to green spaces and greenery actually improves mental health and wellbeing,” they say.

“A great way to bring greenery into your home is through sharing cuttings and seeds. It’s a good way to share rare and interesting plants between friends. We can’t wait to plant the Russian giant sunflower seeds we were given earlier this year.

Apparently the heads of the flower can grow up to 30cm in diameter and the stems 3m tall!” looseleafstore.com.au

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Experience I HOME

Kitchen wishlist GIVE YOUR KITCHEN A MAKEOVER WITH THESE STYLISH PRODUCTS

Love these Kiwi coasters!

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WE LOVE 1. OUTLIVING Oval oak salt & pepper bottles, $39.95, mrandmrsjones.com.au 2. FRINGE STUDIOS Need a day mug, NZ$29, madamefancypants.com 3. TOFUTREE Kiwi coasters, NZ$18 a set, ikoiko.co.nz 4. OUTLIVING Ampersand serving tray, $109, mrandmrsjones.com.au 5. AURA kali jugs in peppermint, small $24.95, medium $39.95 and large $59.95, aurahome.com.au 6. SOFFRITTO DE PARTIE Mechanical scales in red, $99.99, house.com.au 7. BACCARAT Four piece cookset, $499.99, house.com.au 8. ADAIRS Marble trivet hexagon 20cm $39.95, adairs.com.au 9. SCHMIDT BROS. Seven-piece knife set and block, $339.95, shopinside.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY FLAUNTER

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Experience I HOME

In the crib

A little colour and imagination is all it takes to create a bedroom your kids will love

Insider style

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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They’ll love these cute mirrors

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1. KMART Kids home decor range, kmart.com.au 2. KMART Ladder shelf unit in white, $39, kmart.com.au 3. SCOOPS DESIGN Australian animals cushion, $50, scoopsdesign.com.au 4. COTTON ON Kids home range, cottonon.com.au 5. SUNNYLIFE watermelon wax lamp, $26.95, sunnylife.com.au 6. SCOOPS DESIGN Shatterproof elephant family mirror set, $65, scoopsdesign.com.au 7. IKEA Stickat basket, set of two $12.99, ikea.com.au

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When Elton John and husband David Furnish brought home son Zachary, the baby boy was installed (with nannies) in his very own luxury apartment adjoining the celebrity couple’s mansion. Beyoncé and Jay Z are reported to have spent well over a million dollars kitting out daughter Blue Ivy’s nursery with items such as a Swarovski crystal-studded highchair and solid gold rocking horse. Sandra Bullock’s son has his own Warhol; Victoria and David Beckham’s daughter (above) has a custom Damien Hirst painting.

Luckily, back in the real world, it doesn’t take bottomless pockets to create a special space for your little ones. Brands such as Cotton On Kids, Sunnylife and Typo offer plenty of quirky, decorative features that won’t break the bank. Kmart, Ikea and Big W are one-stop shops for furniture and kidfriendly homewares.

Liven up any space with pops of colour and fun toys that will stimulate their imaginations, while making your life a bit easier with clever storage solutions and modular furniture. Involve your kids in the planning process to make sure you both end up with something you love, and don’t be afraid to get creative!

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, FLAUNTER

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

HAMMAM HEAVEN Gather your friends and get your kit off in a traditional Turkish steam bath WORDS JAYNE D’ARCY

PHOTOGRAPHY HEPBURN BATHHOUSE AND SPA

I

4:00 pm

am a huge fan of the hammam. If there’s one around I’ll happily abandon my children and clothes and get straight into it (in Turkey it seemed okay to do that; the women in the hammam practically adopted my son. In Melbourne it’s more about booking a babysitter).

My first introduction to the hammam was in Paris: a huge one hides inside the Paris Mosque. You gather your friends and pick the right day (men and women have different days), strip off (almost entirely) then disappear into a huge wet area and heat up in the surrounding steam and by pouring hot water over yourself (and your friends, it’s very communal).

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39 When you’re hot and sweaty enough, you cover yourself in savon noir (a thick, brown jelly-like substance), wash it off, then wait in a queue for a super-strong woman to rub the skin off your body with a mitt. Shower the grey rolls of dead skin off, and you feel cleaner than the day you were born, even if at the Paris Mosque at least, you might feel a little roughly-handled.

Hepburn Bathhouse and Spa’s new hammam is not quite like that. Firstly, the actual hammam room is inside The Sanctuary, a unisex space featuring a generous round salt pool, a large spa with jet couches as well as a new, almost-outdoor, creek-side bathing spa and a plunge pool.

If there’s one around I’ll happily abandon my children and clothes and get straight into it

It’s not conducive to taking off your clothes.

In fact, the room may just look like another steam room – albeit one decorated in sparkling brass with a glittery ceiling. It’s got two solid benches, both with taps at one end, and a small stone sink opposite the glass entrance door. On first glance you may wonder what it’s all about.

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

The hammam experience at Peninsula Hot Springs.

RIGHT: Exterior and interior of Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa’s accommodation.

Follow this list and you’ll soon be a hammam expert: 40

1. You’ll need a friend, and fresh, well-soaked skin (don’t get a massage with oils beforehand), savon noir (the aforementioned black soap) and an exfoliating glove – the Kessa Glove is authentic and recommended.

Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa sells Mira’s Hand Moroccan hammam kits (including exfoliating glove, savon noir and detoxifying rhassoul clay) for $29.

This is so much more fun with someone else...

4. Pop the glove on and, using long, not circular, strokes, rub your skin.

The more you repeat, the more skin comes off – you’ll probably be very surprised! Wash yourself and the benches clean.

5. Next step is covering

friend with a layer of savon noir. Relax and chat for a bit. Enjoy the steamy surrounds.

yourself in rhassoul clay (a healing Moroccan clay, known for its high silica and magnesium content), leave it on for five minutes, then wash it off.

3. Wash the savon noir off with the hose, or get your friend to wash it off for you. This is so much more fun with someone else – in the traditional Moroccan method hammam time is all about celebration and community.

You should feel soft, shiny and determined to make hammam a regular ritual.

It’s a shame that you can’t get naked, but you can take the leftovers of the kit home and give the rest of your body the good scrubbing it deserves.

2. Cover yourself or your

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TRY IT HERE Victoria’s two best public hammams (Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa and Peninsula Hot Springs) are overnight trips from Melbourne. The last thing you’ll want to do straight after this experience is drive for two hours back to the CBD. Hepburn Bathhouse and Spa has 10 modern villas a short walk from the bathhouse. On The Peninsula we recommend Lightning Rye (airbnb.com.au) for accommodation at a newlyrenovated house in Rye.

PENINSULA HOT SPRINGS Hammam entry is included with bathhouse entry ($45 Friday to Monday and $35 Tuesday to Thursday), or you can grab a group of five to 12 friends and learn how to hammam from a trained therapist for $160 per person. peninsulahotsprings.com

QUEENSLAND Lella Hammam Moroccan Bath & Spa in Bundall Queensland offers hammam from $55. lellahammam.com.au

HEPBURN BATHHOUSE & SPA The Steam Moroccan Ritual for two people is $205 Friday to Monday, or $189 Tuesday to Thursday. Access to The Sanctuary includes entry to the hammam and is $94 per person Friday to Monday, or $74 per person Tuesday to Thursday. hepburnbathhouse.com

DRY IDEA Hammamas is a business and brand started by New Zealander Sacha Hardy. The quick-drying hammam-inspired towels sell at a rate of one every five minutes around the world. They were designed for hammams but are useful everywhere. hammamas.com.au

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

FUR Dog lovers are taking their passion for their pets to new career heights WORDS JAYNE D’ARCY

is that, as in the US and Europe, more Australian businesses will open their doors to them. Oh, and us.

Dogs on tour

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oing on holiday? Is your dog going to a retreat or pet motel? Heading to the pub or café? In the old days we’d leave our best friends at home in the backyard. Today, they come too. As more of us spend up big on our pooches and dog-focused businesses prove to be a growth industry, meet three entrepreneurs inspired by their furry friends.

Dogs with manners You might find Melbourne man Tim Watson in a bar. Most likely, he’ll be with his four-year-old black Labrador, Elliott, who might be eating his

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As in the US and Europe, more Australian businesses will open their doors to them.

Oh, and us dinner on the ground: frozen meat hidden inside a rubber “Kong” toy. You see, Tim is a dog trainer and animal behaviourist.

He knows all the tricks to help your dog be happy in social situations.

This year he quit his job paying out death claims at a large insurance company to focus on his three-year-old business

Good Dog, and he’s made it his job to to help dogs and their owners happily socialise.

Tim created his business around the change he’s seen in how we live and engage with our pets. “These days a lot of socialising [for people] doesn’t happen so much in the house; we go out for dinner, to the pub, or the café, and our dogs come along for the ride,” he says. “We’re giving them more of an opportunity to socialise than we ever did.

“We’re becoming a more dog-friendly culture,” Tim says. “But we’re still not getting the message out that we need to train and socialise our dogs very, very early on.” His hope

Kerry Watt takes dogs and their owners on winery tours around Victoria.

It wasn’t initially in her grand plan. She was working in the corporate world and studying for her MBA when a tutor in a philosophy class asked her what she was passionate about.

Kerry’s answer? “Going to wineries, being an amateur foodie, and I love being out with my dog [Diesel, now five].”

Kerry started spending more time thinking about what she loved doing, and came up with the concept of Gourmet Pawprints.

Today, three years later, her guests and their dogs hop on her newly-bought bus – “I swapped my MBA for a bus licence!” – and the winery tour begins.

It’s all meticulously planned, from pre-trip assessments of the dog’s behaviour, to making sure the dogs are de-sexed, vaccinated and healthy.

“We have doggy seat belts, spare collars and leads and water, and dry shampoo,” she says.

According to Kerry, dogs are a part of the family for those who come on

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

Try it here Gourmet Pawprints gourmetpawprints.com.au the adventures. “That’s the common element in all the people who come,” she says.

Foodie dogs Sydney-based Treats a la Bark founder Naomi Davis says she sees her pug Rufio as her child.

“I know that sounds a bit crazy but I am a crazy dog person and I didn’t want to feed him bad things.” Five years ago Rufio’s skin problems led her to develop a range of healthy dog treats.

They tick the same boxes that excite many health-conscious people; they’re vegetarian and sugar free. To show just how keen people are on their pets, one of the most recent products to hit her online store is Personalised Organic Biscuits ($10). Yes, you

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Good Dog behaviour gooddogbehaviour.com.au

Treats a la Bark treatsalabark.com.au

43 Naomi Davis and her pug Rufio. OPPOSITE PAGE: Tim Watson and his black labrador Elliott. ABOVE: Happy guests and their dogs on a Gourmet Pawprints winery tour.

can get your dog’s name on them. Even though dogs can’t read.

“I asked people if they would actually buy a personalised dog treat for their dog,” Naomi says.

“I wasn’t sure, but the people I asked did [want them], and now they’re the best seller on the site.

“Customers write in saying how good it is to have organic treats.

It’s lovely to hear their stories and how much they love the product. I didn’t expect any of this,” she says.

Like all these success stories, it all started with the love of a dog.

12/09/2016 2:46 PM

A MASK FOR EVERY TASK Address all your skin woes with SugarBaby’s go anywhere facial fixer uppers. Salon style at home facial treatments made with natures essential active ingredients and infused with the super hydrating and nurturing benefits of coconut fruit extract.

Available at Myer Stores Nationally $6.95 each or 4 for $20.00 and online at www.sugarbaby.com.au @sugarbabybeauty /sugarbaby beauty

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Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

Destination dazzling WANT TO ARRIVE AT YOUR DESTINATION LOOKING FRESH AND GORGEOUS AFTER A LONG-HAUL FLIGHT?

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Top tips

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WORDS SHONAGH WALKER

GET READY TO FLY As soon as you’re settled in your seat, use cleansing wipes to remove makeup.

HYDRATE

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5 Soothe skin on long flights

Apply a deeply hydrating leave-on mask over your serum. Choose one that’s colourless so you don’t scare the other passengers.

THE BAR CART

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PREPARING FOR DESCENT

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1. YES TO Coconut cleansing wipes moisturise as you cleanse $5.99, yestocarrots.com 2. CLINIQUE Moisture surge overnight mask helps skin glow, $52, clinique.com.au 3. CHARLOTTE TILBURY Mini miracle eye wand hides dark circles, $58, charlottetilbury.com 4. BHAVE Gun powder adds fullness to hair, $29.95, bhavehair.com 5. AVON Extralasting lipstick in Forever Pink for a pop of colour $4.99, avon.com.au 6. MOO GOO 3 vitamins serum enriches skin, $24.90, moogoo.com.au

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MASK IT

It’s not off limits, but if you do imbibe, or drink caffeinated drinks, be sure to balance each drink with two glasses of water.

WE LOVE

12:09 pm

A hydrating serum will keep skin supple throughout even the longest-haul flight. Apply generously and follow with a moisturiser with intense hydrating benefits.

Cleanse your skin once again and reapply serum.

Follow with a top-notch tinted moisturiser, which will provide hydrating benefits, as well as sun protection and “your-skinbut-better” coverage. If you need to, use a little brightening concealer under your eyes to disguise dark circles.

LANDING GEAR Add some oomph to your hair with a volumising dry shampoo. Aim it directly into the roots and then brush through for a fullbodied, glamorous mane.

OFF THE PLANE Before you disembark, apply a swipe of your fave lipstick (a soft coral suits all skin tones and adds radiance).

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Experience I STYLE

Florals on the fïeld

Ditch muted shades for pretty pastels and eye-catching prints PHOTOGRAPHY RIC WALLIS STYLING MONIQUE SOAMES

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A classic scent

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1. Declic Horse & Rider cufflinks in red, $99.95, declic.com.au 2. Alan Myerson Panama hat in tan, $119, alanmyerson.com 3. Jack London Sky Linen Blazer, $299, jacklondon.com.au 4. Declic Moire Bow Tie in red, $89.95, and Taffy Check Shirt in orange, $189.95, declic.com.au 5. GlassHaus Spring boutonniere, $22, glasshaus.com.au 6. Ascot Four Colour silk pocket square in red, $55, henrybucks.com.au 7. Owndays Sunglasses, $98, owndays.com 8. Jack London Neutral Linen Waistcoat, $119, jacklondon.com.au 9. Leyva Elasticised Belt, $125, henrybucks.com.au 10. Otto & Spike Cyndi Socks in red and Tee Off Socks in orange, $17.50 each, ottoandspike.com.au 11. Brando Wilky shoes, $379, brando.com.au 12. Uniqlo Men’s DRY Stretch Pants in navy, $59.90, uniqlo.com/au 13. The Game The Opener Wallet in cherry, $129, thegame.cool 14. Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne, $199, henrybucks.com.au 15. Fox Whangee Telescopic Umbrella, $219, henrybucks.com.au

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1. Royal Selangor Promessa Champagne Flutes, $159.95 pair, au.royalselangor.com 2. Forever New Melody Flower Crown, $59.99, forevernew.com.au 3. Martha Jean Confetti Large Drop Earrings $49, marthajean.com.au 4. Alannah Hill You Wish I Was Her Cardi in blue, $189, alannahhill.com.au 5. Trelise Cooper Eye Of The Biker Jacket, $659, trelisecooperonline.com 6. Owndays Zoo Ptilopsis Sunglasses in blue, $98, owndays.com 7. Anthea Crawford Floating Carnation Shantung Dress, $599, antheacrawford.com.au 8. Olga Berg London Patent Hex Pod in chartreuse, $89.95, olgaberg.com 9. 3INA Nail Polish, $9.50, 3ina.com; W7 Lip Lights, $4.99, and EyeLust Mascara, $4.99, chemistwarehouse.com.au 10. Sempre Di Heels in Yellow Black, $235 and $239, sempredi.com 11. Alannah Hill Babe In The Woods Flowers in cream, pink, blue, $69 each, alannahhill.com.au 12. Hollister California Wave Her Elle Eau De Parfum 100ml, $29.99, chemistwarehouse.com.au 13. Martha Jean Glitter Bangle, $49, and Ombre Bangle, $45, marthajean.com.au

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12/09/2016 2:48 PM

Experience I SUITS YOU

So long, farewell KNOW WHEN IT’S TIME TO SAY GOODBYE TO YOUR FAVOURITE CLOTHES

Three items of clothing you should think twice about keeping

WORDS PETER BARRETT

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SHOES: That pair of fancy dress shoes you spent big bucks on for your wedding and never wore again?

TAKE A WALK TIES: No, 12-centimetre wide, earth-tone ’70s ties aren’t coming back.

PRESS EJECT T-SHIRTS: Frayed around the neck, faded ironic message on the front?

I LOVE YOU, GOODBYE

According to Japanese organisational consultant Marie Kondo, the answer is to literally thank them.

Her best-selling book The Life Changing Method of Tidying Up has spawned a worldwide cult of decluttering neatness freaks.

Marie’s advice is to pick up each object in your home and ask yourself:

...we’ll go out for just one more beer together and have a serious man-to-inanimate-object chat does this spark joy in my life? If the answer is no, thank it for its service (clothes have feelings too, you know) and then put it in the ‘out’ pile. It sounds nuts but just give it a try.

As for Clarence, I’m not sure we’re ready to break up just yet. Maybe we’ll go out for just one more beer together and have a serious man-to-inanimate-object chat.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

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YOU KNOW YOU’RE hung up on an object when you give it a pet name. For me, it’s a piece of clothing I bought in Edinburgh 20 years ago.

I still have “Clarence”, a pale, mustard-coloured cotton shirt printed with dozens of tiny cloned clarinet players. I like him (yes, it’s a male) for his bohemian, threadbare, comfortable feel – not to mention his tones, which suit my complexion.

I’m even fond of the small hole accidentally burnt in him by a selfrolled cigarette all those carefree years ago.

Objective evidence says it’s time Clarence and I parted ways. For starters he now stretches and contorts at the buttons where my girth has grown 20 years wider.

Granted, I could lose the weight, but I’m actually pretty happy with the new, voluptuous me. It seems Clarence and I have (literally) out-grown each other.

Every man has one or more of these pieces lurking in his closet.

Knowing when to say goodbye to much-loved clothing is difficult but essential. But how does one properly honour that trusty, valiant and hard-working piece of clothing?

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12/09/2016 2:48 PM

Experience I HEALTH

A GAME TO LOVE Are cardio and tennis a match made in heaven?

Georgia Rickard reckons they might be

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There are dozens of Fitbit Cardio Tennis classes around Australia and New Zealand – often at community tennis centres and local clubs.

Register and book a free workout voucher at cardiotennis.com.au

Working up a sweat!

I’m not the only one feeling the burn. Jess’ next activity is The Zig Zag of Hell (my term), in which each person is required to run forward to the net, back to the baseline, and then forward again in a Z, connecting three balls with bat (racquet) as Jess zings them over the net.

We end up running continuously, from one side of the court and back again while a storm of green balls fly past knees and over heads.

Despite the pace, time whizzes by and it’s unbelievable fun. In the final 20 minutes, we’re subjected to a cruel

Squats and lunges, jumps and side lunges, high-knee laps around and around kind of round-robin, in which, between dashing on and off the court for mini-matches, we must languish in plank position. I catch myself grinning. This is magic.

Painful magic.

When class is over we all stand around, hands on our knees, panting, and Jess consults a darkhaired girl in our group.

“How many steps did we run?” she asks. The brunette consults her pedometer. “5000,” she says.

That’s about 4.5km. Not bad when you didn’t set out to run. Not bad at all.

Cardio tennis is light on technique and heavy on banter – no need to be a pro. Jess also swears that your technique will improve aggressively with regular sessions, which I reckon might be true.

If you can already manage to occasionally connect ball with racquet (I’ve got that now), you’ll be laughing (literally and otherwise). I aced it.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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“I’VE NEVER BEEN particularly good at connecting ball with bat,” I say to Jess, my new coach. Wait – did I just say bat? My face turns pink. Racquet. I meant racquet.

It’s been a while since I played tennis, obviously.

But Cardio Tennis (more officially known as Fitbit Cardio Tennis thanks to a recent partnership with the health-tracking device company) has become a global trend in the past few years. What have I got to lose?

It’s 6.30pm on a Monday and I’m at the courts of City Community Tennis in Sydney’s Prince Alfred Park. As feel-good tunes thump out like it’s 1999 (Jess has brought speakers), we take a warm-up jog around the court, and I feel myself start to relax. Maybe my rusty tennis set won’t be so rusty after all?

Within 10 minutes of stepping onto the court, I’m tearing forward to make drop shots and then back for backhands – and I’m beginning to understand why Serena Williams has such great legs. Squats and lunges, jumps and side lunges, high-knee laps around and around. Forget about tennis, I know what my real weakness is – cardio.

Try it here

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Experience I RECIPE

How sweet it is

Melbourne provedore Kathy Tsaples shares the flavours of her heritage in Sweet Greek Life WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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t the Sweet Greek stall in Melbourne’s Prahran Market, the smell of home cooking envelops you in its warm embrace. The cosy space is filled with tightly packed trays of baklava, cakes and sweet and savoury pastries, and cabinets packed with fresh salads, home-cooked meals and mezze bites.

The kitchen is hard at work producing still more; a batch of braised fava beans is perched on the counter, while flourless fruitcakes rise in the oven.

In the middle of it all is owner Kathy Tsaples.

Sweet Greek is Kathy’s passion project, started five years ago as she was recovering from a battle with cancer, and now a firm favourite in this gourmet inner-city market. In the beginning Kathy cooked every dish in her home kitchen, driving it in at five in the morning for that day’s trade. Now, much of the produce is prepared onsite by her small team, but Kathy is still the heart and soul of Sweet Greek.

I’d been warned that it’s impossible for Kathy to cross the market

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without being stopped for a chat and sure enough, as soon as we enter the sun-filled Market Lane café, a man spies Kathy and launches into an animated conversation in Greek. A child of Greek migrants who arrived in the early ‘50s, Kathy grew up in Melbourne’s east in a home “where everyone would be popping in, and sitting around the table laughing, eating, drinking and being happy.”

Coming home Waves of immigration in the 1950s and ‘60s brought generations of Greek families Down Under, the majority to Melbourne.

A vibrant and close-knit community thrived, contributing to the multicultural weave of the city, until it was as normal to have baklava with your post-theatre coffee as shortbread. Melbourne still has the third-largest Greek community in the world, behind Athens and Thessaloniki.

Kathy was brought up in the heart of this community. The preparation and sharing of meals is central to Kathy’s idea of family and cultural identity.

“That’s how I grew up, just around the table, with

I grew up, just around the table, with beautiful, simple food – nothing extravagant

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Experience I RECIPE

A taste of Greece

beautiful, simple food – nothing extravagant, nothing gourmet, but beautiful, authentic flavours,” she says. Her second cookbook Sweet Greek Life, out this month through Melbourne Books, is Kathy’s way of sharing that culture.

Based on traditional Greek recipes, Kathy describes her food as

“wholesome dishes that come from the heart”. Typical of the Mediterranean diet, Sweet Greek Life is filled with comforting food made with good ingredients.

Her Fig Cake (recipe below) was inspired the over-abundance of figs Kathy encountered on a recent trip to Greece.

“They are figs like you’ve never had before, like eating honey,” Kathy says.

“This cake takes me back to Greece … I’d go walking and see fields of currants drying out and figs both fresh and drying, and that just captivated me.”

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INGREDIENTS

Keik me Syko ke Amigthalo

PHOTOGRAPHYSTUDIO BRAVE, SWEET GREEK

FIG CAKE

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METHOD Place the figs in a saucepan with the apple juice and water, and cook over medium heat until soft and plump. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan-forced. Butter a 25-centimetre round cake tin and sprinkle it with some almond meal, or gluten-free flour.

Pulse the figs in a food processor with the cognac until they are a fine purée. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar together. Add the fig pulp and mix thoroughly. Add the almond meal, baking powder and salt, and combine thoroughly.

Leave the batter to rest for 10 minutes, then pour it into the prepared tin and bake for 1 hour or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack.

CAKE • 300g good-quality Greek dried figs • 1 cup apple juice • ¼ cup water • 2 tbsp cognac • 12 eggs • 500g caster sugar • 500g almond meal • 2 tsp baking powder • ¼ tsp salt ICING • 500g fresh ricotta • 1 tsp vanilla extract • ½ cup icing sugar • 500g fresh, ripe figs • ½ cup flaked almonds, lightly toasted

To make the icing, pulse the ricotta, vanilla extract and icing sugar in a food processor to a creamy consistency. When the cake is cool, generously ice the top of the cake with the ricotta mixture. Tear the fresh figs in half and pile on top of the cake, and finish with the flaked almonds.

12/09/2016 2:49 PM

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Explore I INTERVIEW

#cruisewhitsundays

Hiking hitlist

You’ll have stunning beaches to yourself when you hike the Bay of Fires.

Discover more Tasmanian Great Walks on page 101.

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PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

gst ur de. n!

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PERTH I SINGAPORE I NEW ZEALAND I AND MORE

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BALACLAVA MILK BAR, FADED FACADE IN BELL PARK, COFFEE SIGN IN WESTERN SYDNEY, ANNA’S TAKE AWAY IN NEWTOWN, GENERAL STORE IN LARA, RIO MILK BAR IN SUMMER HILL, FADED MARCHANTS SIGN IN MOONEE PONDS, CAULFIELD MILK BAR. CENTRE: ‘M’ FOR MILK IN BRUNSWICK WEST.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BALACLAVA MILK BAR, FADED FACADE IN BELL PARK, COFFEE SIGN IN WESTERN SYDNEY, ANNA’S TAKE AWAY IN NEWTOWN, GENERAL STORE IN LARA, RIO MILK BAR IN SUMMER HILL, FADED MARCHANTS SIGN IN MOONEE PONDS, CAULFIELD MILK BAR. CENTRE: ‘M’ FOR MILK IN BRUNSWICK WEST.

Explore I INTERVIEW

MILK BARS

Counter culture

Once the hub of every local community, photographer Eamon Donnelly pays tribute to the much-loved milk bar

Sign of the times: Streets double beauty sign in Mentone.

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Explore I INTERVIEW

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Fading memories The signage on this former milk bar in Hotham Street, Balaclava, has now been painted over.

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Explore I INTERVIEW

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End of an era Maccas Milk Bar in Melbourne’s Ascot Vale.

Opposite page: Milk bar snapshots from Victoria and New South Wales.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BIG M SELLER FELLER IN COBURG, CAMBERWELL MILK BAR, MARCHANTS SIGNAGE, WILLIAMSTOWN MILK BAR, BEHIND THE COUNTER IN COBURG, PRAHRAN MILK BAR, LOUIE’S CORNER STORE IN WOLLONGONG, FORMER MILK BAR IN ST KILDA. CENTRE: MAIDSTONE MILK BAR.

Explore I INTERVIEW

12/09/2016 2:51 PM

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BIG M SELLER FELLER IN COBURG, CAMBERWELL MILK BAR, MARCHANTS SIGNAGE, WILLIAMSTOWN MILK BAR, BEHIND THE COUNTER IN COBURG, PRAHRAN MILK BAR, LOUIE’S CORNER STORE IN WOLLONGONG, FORMER MILK BAR IN ST KILDA. CENTRE: MAIDSTONE MILK BAR.

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Explore I MILK BARS

Suburban soul THE HUMBLE MILK BAR WAS MORE THAN JUST A SHOP, IT WAS ALSO THE HEART OF THE COMMUNITY WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

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ixed bags of lollies, ice creams and chips.

Ice-cold fizzy drinks, chocolate bars and chewing gum. For kids growing up in suburban Australia, the local milk bar offered a treasure trove of treats.

Family-run businesses, often attached to a dwelling, milk bar owners worked where they lived and all the locals knew their names.

Eamon Donnelly, who has spent the past 14 years photographing milk bars in Victoria and New South Wales, loved the local milk bar in the East Geelong, Victoria, community where he grew up. “It was run by Dave and Peggy, but we simply called it Dave’s,” he says.

Years later, after Eamon’s family had moved to another part of Geelong, Eamon discovered Dave’s had closed and the building was being renovated.

He took a photograph of the milk bar, but the knowledge it was gone made him wonder about the fate of other businesses.

He soon discovered that many of them were closed, but their colourful

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A former milk bar in Brunswick West.

ABOVE: Jeff and Nina were the owners of this Brunsiwck milk bar when photographer Eamon Donnelly was living next door.

About the photographer

They are still an important stepping stone for many migrants, and very much a part of our local community history signage and shop windows often remained.

So he set about capturing the spirit of the local milk bar in all its (sometimes faded) glory.

“Many of the innercity milk bars have been lost but there are still working milk bars in the outer suburbs and country towns,” says Eamon. “They are still an

important stepping stone for many migrants, and very much a part of our local community history.”

Eamon says his memories of visiting his local milk bar are still strong. “Going to the milk bar on your BMX bike, buying a bag of lollies and hanging out the front with your friends. It was heaven.”

In 2002 Geelong-born illustrator, designer and photographer Eamon Donnelly took his first photograph of a milk bar and his interest soon became an obsession.

“I started with Polaroid, then moved to digital,” says Eamon. He now has around 5500 digital images of milk bars taken in suburban streets and country towns across Australia. Eamon Donnelly’s MILK BARS! Milkshakes, Memories & Mixed Lollies, featuring stories, memories, images and milk bar history will be published next year. milkbarsbook.com

13/09/2016 1:06 PM

A

Jetstar O

discover

more

An awesome underwater journey awaits you at AQWA

+

Cafe Gift Shop Dive with Sharks Open Daily 10am - 5pm Hillarys Boat Harbour 9447 7500 www.aqwa.com.au /discoverAQWA

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Explore I PERTH

PHOTO METROPOLITAN REDEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

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Explore I PERTH

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

WESTERN AUSTRALIA Perth

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One Perth-ect day

From its new waterside precincts to its resuscitated heritage buildings, the western capital has been reimagined WORDS FLEUR BAINGER

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Explore I PERTH

Long Chim Restaurant and Bar. BELOW: Long Chim’s courtyard.

OPPOSITE: Little Creatures, Fremantle.

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t’s 7pm on a Monday night and a gritty, low-lit basement haunt in Perth’s inner city is humming like a 747 engine. All seats are taken at Long Chim, the city’s newest street-food restaurant. From the ultra-hip art coating the walls to the chilliamped bowls of authentic fare, everything sizzles to the max.

What’s more, Long Chim is run by Australian-born Michelin-star chef David Thompson who chose Perth – that’s right, Perth – for his first Australian opening in 20 years. The Thai cooking master, who received a Michelin star at Nahm in London in 2001, opened his last Australian restaurant, Sailors Thai, in Sydney in 1995. Long Chim has siblings in Singapore and now Sydney.

Hidden in the State Buildings’ vaulted basement, the venue oozes an intangible energy that is symptomatic of the West Australian capital’s smashing makeover: over the past decade, the once-dull concrete jungle has morphed into a buzzing urban playground.

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As someone who’s been living in the WA capital for the past 10 years, I’ve watched as Perth turned its attention away from the stunning coast of translucent waters and sugary sand to refocus on its core.

Sure, those epic beaches are still in the rear-view mirror, but with a series of significant new openings sparking up the city, urban life is now front and centre.

The venue oozes an intangible energy that is symptomatic of the West Australian capital’s smashing makeover

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER KENNEDY, BEWLEY SHAYLOR, GETTY IMAGES

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Explore I PERTH

Icons of cool

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The State Buildings is one such hotspot. Walking off the street and into the collection of heritage structures that were built in the 1870s, it’s hard to believe they were left to rot for decades.

People spill from Petition Beer Corner, a craft-beer haven created by the local founders of Little Creatures Brewing, and slink up the steps into the adjoining restaurant, Petition Kitchen, where Jesse Blake, formerly a chef at Melbourne’s award-winning Cumulus Inc, is on the pans. Pared-back walls hint at days gone by, when the building served as the original home of Western Australia’s government, harbouring treasury documents and land titles.

Down an elegant hallway is a custom-made timber pod

Christian de Vietri’s eight-storey sculpture Spanda at Elizabeth Quay. ABOVE: Western Australia’s first post office is now the Como the Treasury hotel.

housing Telegram Coffee, a florist specialising in WA natives, celebrity-fave fashion designer Aurelio Costarella’s boutique, a bespoke chocolatier and more artisan businesses. They cluster around the great hall of WA’s first General Post Office, a luminous space open to pedestrians, and lead to what has become the city’s most iconic hotel, the five-star Como the

Treasury. Just beyond, an artfully lit lounge bar called Halford draws cocktail aficionados into its vaultlike den. It too has star power: John Parker, who rocked Melbourne’s bar scene with Gin Palace and Madame Brussels, opened it after relocating to the wild west.

“I’d been coming to Perth for 10 years and was seeing how it was slowly changing and evolving,” John says. “When I first started visiting, people were keen to leave.

But in those last couple of years more creative people were staying so I figured there’d be a flow-on to the arts scene, food and music, which has happened.”

PHOTOGRAPHY METROPOLITAN REDEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

Don’t forget to look up!

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LCR004

Visit the

fremantle brewery 40 Mews Rd

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Almost within sight of the State Buildings, Elizabeth Quay is redefining the city’s connection to the Swan River, which slices the metropolis in two. A colossal earthmoving effort saw stage one, a $440 million waterfront entertainment precinct at the base of the CBD’s skyscrapers, open in January.

Thousands have since strolled along its riverside promenades, over its curvy bridge and past its 29-metre statement sculpture, palm trees and playground to new cafés and restaurants. Chic tri-level venue, The Reveley, combines a casual eatery, a fine diner and a rooftop bar boasting epic views at dusk. Neon illuminates the inlet, and the suburban skyline of South Perth shines across the river.

Both zones reveal a progressive loosening of the tie around Perth’s once-conservative neck. A gamechanging decision in 2007 to allow small bars to operate set in motion the city’s reinvention: now there are some 130 petite wine-quaffing, cocktail-sipping venues in the city, and a dining culture that continues well after 8.30pm.

Creative heart Add to this culture-boosting public and commercial infrastructure projects, plus the work of some of the world’s most respected street artists now decorating laneway

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Melbourne has an alleyway feel, whereas we’ve got larger-scale murals walls and nondescript buildings, and new life pulses in onceforgotten spaces.

“The impact has been huge,” says Lynda Dorrington, who heads up FORM, an independent, non-profit body focused on injecting WA with greater creativity. She says the art – sprayed, stencilled and splashed by big names such as Belgium’s Roa,

Millo from Italy and Maya Hayuk from the US – changed Perth in the eyes of residents and visitors. “It’s a calling card that says we’re open for business but we have a more casual approach to life and we’re not so hung up on the conservative,” Lynda says.

Through the three-year-old Public program, more than 200 local and international artists have been engaged to create 166 artworks in public places. The result is a cleverly curated urban gallery.

“That’s the difference between Melbourne and Perth,” says Rhianna Pezzaniti, FORM’s Public project manager. “Melbourne has

PHOTOGRAPHY BEWLEY SHAYLOR

Octopus Mural by Phlegm, Fremantle.

RIGHT: The view from The Reveley rooftop. BELOW RIGHT: Add Fuel.

Upwards Descent by Belgian artist Roa.

12/09/2016 2:52 PM

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Explore I PERTH

More to come 72

Other big-deal openings include a $1.4 billion stadium seating 60,000 and a sports precinct linked to the city via pedestrian bridge due in 2018. Work has begun on a $430 million museum expected to open in 2020 that sits across from the Art Gallery of WA, where John Parker opened hip gallery bistro, Arthouse, in June.

Perth City Link will sink train lines to reconnect the city centre’s polished streets with neighbouring Northbridge’s grungy, artistic and multicultural pockets and Yagan Square, a $73.5 million pedestrian zone named after an Aboriginal warrior. The square, with a produce market, wildflower garden, cafés, pop-up shops and a 45-metre digital tower, will open mid next year.

“Lots of Aboriginal stories will be told in a subtle way, through art and design,” says Dr Richard Walley, a Noongar elder providing cultural advice on the project. “It’s a meeting place, where people of all walks of life can meet and experience stories.”

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PERTH LIKE A LOCAL COFFEE HIT Telegram State Buildings Corner St Georges Terrace and Barrack Street telegramcoffee.com.au

BREKKIE Flora and Fauna 4/70 Aberdeen Street, Northbridge facebook.com/ florafaunaperth/

FANCY DINNER The Reveley Eastern Promenade, Elizabeth Quay thereveleybar.com.au Long Chim Basement, State Buildings Corner St Georges Terrace and Barrack Street longchimperth.com

BAR HOP Mechanics Institute 222 William Street, Northbridge (rear) mechanicsinstitutebar. com.au Halford State Buildings Corner Hay Street and Cathedral Avenue halfordbar.com.au Varnish on King 75 King St, Perth varnishonking.com

The Goods Shed, a hub for artists.

ABOVE: Artist Millo’s mural, From Her To Eternity.

LOCAL FAVE The Cottesloe Beach Hotel 104 Marine Parade, Cottesloe cottesloebeachhotel. com.au As stories are shared, Perth’s story is being rewritten and, as John Parker says, it’s a story of reinvention. “Perth’s grown up now,” he says. “She’s found herself and she’s creating her own style – she’s not following Melbourne or Sydney anymore.”

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Perth from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY BEWLEY SHAYLOR

an alleyway feel, whereas we’ve got larger-scale murals.”

FORM’s latest project, The Goods Shed, launched in August, creating a suburban hub for artist residencies, community activities and exhibitions. Based in a 130-year-old railway building, it’s open to anyone wandering in.

There are fears Perth’s new pep may be curtailed by the downturn in the mining sector’s prosperity, but Lynda says it’ll be the opposite.

“When you run an 18-hour day for the resources industry, there’s no room for creativity or urbanity.

It’s just eat, work and sleep. A slowing economy drives you into diversification. So now in Perth, it’s eat, work and play.”

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Explore I ROTTNEST ISLAND

Raving about Rottnest A tiny, car-free island 25 minutes over water from Perth balances tourism with a top-class nature reserve WORDS FLEUR BAINGER

F

ew capital cities have a holiday island just 19 kilometres across the ocean, beckoning from a prime spot on the horizon. Rotto, as Perth locals affectionately call it, is Rottnest Island. The name actually means rat’s nest, a misnomer coined by 17th century Dutch explorers who thought the cute-as-a-button, selfiefriendly quokkas were rodents.

Fast-forward 400 years and the macropods are so famous on Instagram that even celebrities

such as Hugh Jackman are getting in on the act. Rotto is where West Australians spend their childhood holidays, where blushing teens steal their first kiss, where big-ticket entrepreneurs and mining magnates moor their streamlined boats, and where bikes rule over cars.

Everyone gets around on bikes, from tots on trainer wheels to their grandparents on vintage models.

The island’s tin-shed-based bike-hire service is believed to be the biggest in the Southern Hemisphere, housing

PHOTOGRAPHY ROTTNEST ISLAND AUTHORITY

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some 1300 bikes. In peak season, about 700 are borrowed daily.

Not only can kids run about unhindered, quokkas are also free to safely roam. There are an estimated 8000 to 12,000 quokkas on the Class A nature reserve (this is Western Australia’s most protected public land rating). Handfuls of quokkas are regularly spotted weaving through legs at the oceanside pub, and watching as people have a hit of tennis or a round of golf.

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“Rottnest is a good blast from the past,” says Peter ‘Pedro’ Minekus, one of the few island inhabitants, a privilege extended only to select staff of various businesses during their employment.

Private ownership has been prohibited on Rottnest since 1839, and the residential population numbers just 200 people.

Having spent 37 of his past 54 years deliberately marooned on the rock, Pedro, who works at the general store, is its longest-serving resident.

“There’s nowhere like Rottnest, it’s really unique. I meet people from all around the world and they’re just gobsmacked,” he says.

About 500,000 people visit Rotto each year, and nearly half of those have been 10 times or more.

Much of the main

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settlement in Thompson Bay is made of up peachhued stone buildings that date back to the 1840s.

Once a farming outpost for European settlers, then a penal colony, Rottnest was transformed into a holiday island in the 1930s.

It’s been fiercely protected ever since – so keen are people to maintain Rottnest’s simplicity that salt-water showers in the visitor’s accommodation weren’t upgraded to fresh water until the 1990s, and TVs were introduced to rooms just a decade ago. Pedro says Rottnest’s “back-tothe-basics” style is what makes it special.

“It’s the simple life: kids can walk around freely,

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Explore I ROTTNEST ISLAND

FACT BOX How to get there:

A view to the Wadjemup Lighthouse from Geordie Bay. TOP RIGHT: Rotto is a favourite with kids. BELOW LEFT: A local quokka says hi; Stay in heritage cottages on Vincent Way.

you don’t need a car,” he says. “The supermarket still does home delivery, and we’ll even put your groceries in the fridge.”

PHOTOGRAPHY ROTTNEST ISLAND AUTHORITY

A natural wonder The honey-coloured sand and azure waters of Rotto’s 63 bays are a salve to the eyes. Edged by limestone rock and low scrub, some have great snorkelling and others boast epic waves.

The elevated temperature of the Leeuwin Current, a southflowing body of water that envelops Rottnest, means diverse coral gardens and 135 tropical fish species survive in this southern reach of the Indian Ocean.

Comparatively, along the metropolitan coast, only 11 tropical fish species

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Rottnest’s “back-to-thebasics” style is what makes it special have been counted.

There are enough activities to justify an extended stay too. Guides wearing yellow T-shirts give free tours of every historical and natural aspect of the island. Some 45km of trails, developed by the Wadjemup Bidi Project, lead to a new seal-viewing platform at Cathedral Rocks at the island’s western end.

There are multiple ferry trips to Rottnest daily. Fares are cheapest on Tuesdays.

One departure option is Fremantle’s B-Shed, left of the train station, which only takes 25 minutes. Rous Head at Northport Ferry Terminal is ideal if you need a car park.

Two-wheeled Segway vehicles are available for hire too and organised tours roll off-road to World War II military remnants, while skydives from 15,000 feet deliver aerial views. There are also tours by bike or bus, island circumnavigations by boat and scenic flights Trust us when we say a day trip really isn’t long enough.

Our tip: Depart from Barrack Street jetty in Perth to score a scenic cruise of the Swan River, which eventually meets the ocean.

Where to stay: Rent one of the basic-butcharming Rottnest Island Units – we love staying at Thompson Bay or Geordie Bay. Heritage View Cottages have fantastic outlooks.

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Where to eat: Hotel Rottnest, the bakery or Geordie’s Café.

Getting around:

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Perth from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

Take a quokka selfie*

Rottnest is car-free, so bring or hire a bike (book one with your ferry ticket or rent one on the island), or simply walk around.

There’s also a hop-on, hop-off Island Explorer bus.

Best time to visit: October to April. Beware the crowds in January.

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*Quokkas are protected, so be careful not to touch or feed them.

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the simple pleasures in life

Voted ‘Australia’s Number 1 Destination to Experience’ by Experience Oz poll.* Come and see why. rottnestisland.com

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Blooming marvels

Head to where the wild things are in Western Australia this month WORDS FLEUR BAINGER

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY

FROM TOP: Spring wildflower display in Kings Park; Grevillea olivacea, Esperance; Mallee Eucalyptus flowers, Fitzgerald River National Park. BELOW: Kings Park display.

RIGHT: Banksia scabrella.

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IN THE GLOBAL village we call Earth, it sometimes feels as though every inch of land has been finely combed, with nothing more to discover. Not so in Western Australia, where as many as 50 new species of wildflower are found each year, adding to the state’s already impressive total of 12,000 species.

“We’re in the top 20 places in the world for species diversity,” says Rob Davis, an identification botanist at the Western Australian Herbarium in Perth.

“Seventy per cent are endemic to the southwest, and found nowhere else in world.”

Wildflowers start blooming in the midnorth in June and progressively open, like a wave that rolls down the state, until November, when they peter out at WA’s southern tip.

Going on a self-drive wildflower hunt is more of an act of exploration than you might think. Many wildflowers are tiny and have to be tracked down: the smallest measure just 2mm. Rob recommends using a magnifying glass.

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“When you blow them up you really get to see the beauty in them – it’s another world,” he says.

“The vividness of the colours, the patterns on the petals, the intricacy of the hairs, it’s really quite stunning.”

In Perth, the state’s floral gems are distilled into a magical garden for the Kings Park Wildflower Festival, and can be seen throughout October.

Another hotspot this month is the Darling Scarp in the Perth Hills, particularly John Forrest National Park.

Further afield, hit up Augusta on the southwest coast, Mt Lindesay near Denmark, Fitzgerald River National Park, and Esperance.

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FOODfor THOUGHT

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With cooking schools, farmers markets and beautiful local produce, the Sunshine Coast is a dream destination for foodies

PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT SUNSHINE COAST, SPICERS TAMARIND, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, WASABI

WORDS NATASCHA MIROSCH

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H

ELEN Brierty calls it the MasterChef effect.

“When we first started cooking classes, it tended to be middleaged women who came. Now we have more 20-to 30-something couples as well as lots of 14-to 16-year-olds who want something more sophisticated than kids’ classes offer.”

Helen owns Spirit House, the restaurant and cooking school in the quaint ginger-processing town

of Yandina. It’s difficult to imagine that the movie-set location, all towering, creaking bamboo canes and dense tropical foliage, set around a waterlily-filled pond, was once a bare paddock. Or that two decades on, the Sunshine Coast’s oldest cooking school would still be running their Asian-inspired classes daily.

“We were lucky when we opened 20 years ago, there were so many cheap flights to Bali and Thailand and people would come back from

their holiday wanting to replicate dishes they’d eaten there,” Helen says. “Asian produce grows incredibly well here, so that lends a certain authenticity to our classes.”

A region that stretches from the verdant hills of the Blackall Range to the beaches of Noosa and Tewantin, and south to Caloundra, the Sunshine Coast has been blessed with a shopping list of produce from earth and sea. At The Spit at Mooloolaba where the trawlers moor, you can buy sweet

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Cooking on flame at Spirit House’s cooking school. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Belmondos Organic Market; Spicers Tamarind; The annual Noosa Food and Wine Festival; Local avocados for sale; Tomatoes at Noosa Farmers Market; the dining room at Thomas Corner; contemporary Japanese cuisine at Wasabi.

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PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT SUNSHINE COAST, SPICERS TAMARIND, TOURISM NOOSA, WASABI

Explore I SUNSHINE COAST

ocean king prawns, line-caught tuna and snapper, and live spanner crab, sand crab or mud crab.

In the hinterland, farm gate stalls sell their excess on an honesty policy. Drop money into the box and help yourself to sun-warmed pineapples, ripe strawberries, juicy limes, macadamia nuts or avocados. Other farmers take their produce to weekly markets such as those at Noosa and Eumundi, or produce stores including The Big Top at Maroochydore or Belmondos at Noosa.

The mild hinterland climate and luxuriant pastures have also attracted a burgeoning boutique dairy and cheese industry. Between cheesemakers such as part-time jazz musician Trevor Hart of Cedar Street Cheeserie, Woombye Cheese Company’s Graeme Paynter and Swiss cheesemaker Christian Nobel of Fromart, the region produces halloumi, fetta, brie, washed rind and Swiss cheese.

Take a close look as you drive along and you might spot the buffalo

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that supply milk for Cedar Street cheese. And, yes those are camels.

Their nutritious milk is being made into Australia’s first camel yoghurt at nearby Maleny Cheese.

All this abundance is celebrated every year in May when national and international chefs gather to demonstrate their skills with local produce at the Noosa Food and Wine Festival (18-21 May, 2017). The rest of the year, the local produce is on permanent show on restaurant menus including Thomas Corner, Ricky’s and Wasabi, Spirit House, The Long Apron in Montville and The Tamarind at Maleny.

Tamarind accommodation and cooking school manager Bobbie Murphy agrees that TV cooking shows have had a substantial effect on their bottom line.

“In the last year, we’ve had to increase our class numbers from once a week to three times a week,” she says. “We’ve also had a lot more older kids coming with their parents.”

Bobbie also has noticed a spike

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Try it here SPIRIT HOUSE 20 Ninderry Rd, Yandina spirithouse.com.au Asian-themed classes run daily and cover topics from seafood to stir-fries, Thai curries to Vietnamese street food. Four-hour hands-on classes include lunch and a glass of wine ($150).

SPICERS TAMARIND 88 Obi Ln S, Maleny spicersretreats.com/spicerstamarind-retreat Short classes in everything from bread-making to barbecue include tastings ($45). Four-hour hands-on classes in French, Thai and Italian cuisine include lunch and wine ($165).

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CLOCKWISE: A class at Life’s A Feast; The Cooking School Noosa ready for class; Fresh herbs and flowers at Honeysuckle Hill Farm.

in private and corporate classes, as organisations look for staff-bonding opportunities with a broader appeal than golf or paintball days.

Set in Thai-style open pavilions overlooking rainforest-fringed lawns that slope to a creek and waterfall, and with a highly regarded Thai restaurant on site, there’s a natural Asian bent to cooking classes at The Tamarind.

French and Italian cuisine feature too, created around local produce and herbs and vegetables gathered from the gardens.

Like Spirit House and Tamarind, new venture The Cooking School Noosa complements its restaurant, Wasabi. Owner Danielle Gjestland has always had a strong interest in the paddock-to-plate ethos, and has her own property, Honeysuckle Hill Farm, in Pomona. Wasabi’s co-owner and executive chef Zeb

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Gilbert uses its produce, including rare Japanese vegetables and leaves, for the restaurant.

Danielle says Noosa had no formal cooking school of its own.

“I had the idea a long time ago, but it was a matter of finding the right space,” she says.

“We thought about moving Wasabi somewhere else to enable opening the school but it’s just such an unbeatable location [on the Noosa River], it wasn’t an option.”

After finding the perfect spot, just a few doors from the restaurant, she opened The Cooking School in August.

The school offers Japanese classes, albeit not as technical as the cuisine plated up at Wasabi, plus French and Asian classes, and sessions by guest chefs. Danielle says the focus will always be on the produce, rather than the chef.

EASY CHEESY 63 Schreibers Road, Cooran easycheesy.com.au Master cheesemaker Dawn Couchman runs half-day workshops twice a week on how to make soft cheese, from halloumi to mozzarella, at home. Morning tea and cheese and yoghurt to take home are included ($70-$120).

LIFE’S A FEAST 91 Lake Weyba Drive, Noosaville lifesafeast.com.au Classes, in everything from pasta-making to paleo, include a meal and two glasses of wine ($150-175).

“Our aim is to educate people about all the effort that goes into growing and producing, and to support our local farmers. They don’t do it for profit, they do it for love, and we need to acknowledge and respect that.”

PHOTOGRAPHY LIFES A FEAST, HONEYSUCKLE HILL FARM, WASABI

Get ready to start cooking!

THE COOKING SCHOOL NOOSA 2 Quamby Place, Noosa Sound thecookingschoolnoosa.com Five-and-a-half-hour classes include Japanese, French and south-east Asian, artisan breadmaking, preserving and pickling and include a three-course lunch and matched beverages, take-home recipe booklet and an apron ($250).

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LOCAL produce IF THE SUNSHINE COAST’S COOKING SCHOOLS HAVE INSPIRED YOU, HERE’S WHERE TO GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME OF THE LOCAL PRODUCE. THE CALOUNDRA STREET FAIR

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EUMUNDI MARKETS The Sunshine Coast’s oldest market is also its biggest and operates rain or shine. There’s enough here to keep your fruit and veg crisper full for weeks, from organic apples to Asian veggies and herbs, avocados and ginger, bananas, organic garlic, and stone fruit in season.

Most of the local cheesemakers are represented, along with butchers, bakers and condiment makers.

Every Saturday 7am - 2pm; Wednesday 8am - 1.30pm, 80 Memorial Drive, Eumundi

While the name, live music and community vibe might suggest a one-off street festival, this market, set under the shady canopy of trees in Caloundra’s main street, a relaxed stroll away from Bulcock Beach, is a popular weekly event. Among the 200 stalls, including handcrafted products, are food offerings such as local organic fruit and veg, bread, herbs, preserves and jams and homemade condiments.

Every Sunday 8am-1pm, Bulcock Street, Caloundra

HINTERLAND HARVEST MARKETS

NOOSA FARMERS’ MARKET

KAWANA WATERS FARMERS' MARKETS

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Highly regarded for the quality and breadth of its stalls, Noosa Farmers’ Market sell everything from the famous deepred, flavour-packed tomatoes to sweet Eumundi strawberries in season, heads of organic garlic, nuts, poultry and meat, and smoked and fresh fish. Olives and olive oil, charcuterie and local cheese offer premium picnic pickings with free samples allowing you to try before you buy.

Every Sunday 7am-noon, Australian Football Club, Weyba Road, Noosaville

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The Sunshine Coast’s newest food market is in pretty, community-minded Woombye.

There are around 50 stalls, including one that sources much of their fresh produce from locals’ backyard veggie patches. As well as in-season fruit and veg, there’s the local dairy farm’s milk, organic chicken, smallgoods, cheese, honey, olives, baked goods and more.

Every Saturday 6am -11 am, Kiel Mountain Road, Woombye

Operated by the same organiser as the Noosa Farmers’ Market, with a similar feel. If organic is your preference, you’ll find plenty here, from locally farmed chooks and ducks to chemical-free veg, lamb, beef, eggs, olives and olive oil. There’s also wild-caught fish and hydroponic herbs, as well as a cheese from a couple of local cheese makers.

Every Saturday 7am-noon, Kawana Waters State College, Sportsman Parade, Bokarina.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to the Sunshine Coast from across the network.

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FROM URBAN EXPERIENCES TO EXPLORING AUSTRALIA’S REMOTE REGIONS, THERE’S GROWING INTEREST IN INDIGENOUS TOURISM WORDS KATRINA LOBLEY

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PHOTOGRAPHY KATRINA LOBLEY, LONGITUDE 131, BEN MCNAMARA INTREPID TRAVEL

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It’s rewarding when you see [the students] go on their own journey says. “It’s rewarding when you see [the students] go on their own journey.”

It’s inspiring listening to both aunties yarn about how ventures

such as the café – as well as the rise of Indigenous tourism - uplift their communities by providing career opportunities. This halfday Indigenous experience, run

by Splendour Tailored Tours (splendourtailoredtours.com. au), is one of a growing number of ways visitors can learn more about Australia’s Indigenous cultures.

The sector received a boost last year following a Tourism Australia campaign promoting the variety of Indigenous tourism experiences throughout Australia – from the heart of big cities to the remote outback. The campaign’s centrepiece was a short film directed by Brendan Fletcher

PHOTOGRAPHY KATRINA LOBLEY, RED BANKS CONSERVATION PARK

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nder the Sydney Harbour Bridge’s southern approach, Aboriginal elder Margret Campbell is cradling a tiny pot of ground ochre. As weekday traffic and trains rumble overhead, Aunty Marg, as she’s known, daubs the pale paste onto our wrists, connecting us to Mother Earth and the sandstone beneath our feet. Born at sunset on a bend of the Macleay River in New South Wales, Aunty Marg has 12 different ways of identifying herself – from her mother’s and father’s clans on the NSW mid-north and south coasts to her various animal totems – all of which link her into an extraordinarily deep network of kinship and connection.

My eyes are drawn to the ochre symbols drying on her left arm. She tells our tour group what they mean after we travel to the harbour’s northern side to view the outlines of a whale and a man etched into a rock platform. We return to the Royal Botanic Gardens to get up close to the fig trees she considers “grandmothers”. At the base of one, Aunty Marg scratches those same mysterious symbols into the earth and tells her story – a tale that’s for our ears only.

We finish the tour surrounded by more sandstone. The Gardener’s Lodge Café near the University of Sydney occupies a tiny building fashioned in 1888 from precisioncut sandstone blocks. Once used to house the university’s groundskeeper, the Victorian gothic structure fell into disrepair.

Today, the café provides work for Indigenous people taking the first steps towards a hospitality career.

Aboriginal elder, Beryl Van-Oploo (affectionately known as Aunty Beryl) is the café’s driving force.

“We’re like a family here,” she

Sharing culture at Red Banks Conservation Park.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR RIGHT: Searching for pippis and hunting mudcrabs with Walkabout Indigenous Tours; Aunty Marg; and her ochre pot.

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(Mad Bastards) and Indigenous director-cinematographer Warwick Thornton (Samson and Delilah, The Sapphires). The film promotes 50 businesses known as Indigenous Tourism Champions.

The new entrepreneurs Sand Dune Adventures in Port Stephens near Newcastle is one of these champions. The venture, which mixes high-adrenaline quad-biking with cultural insights, is a not-for-profit enterprise run by the Worimi Local Aboriginal Land Council.

The land council’s CEO, Andrew Smith, says many people who come to quad-bike the Stockton Bight sand dunes are surprised to find the tours incorporate aspects of Indigenous culture such as bush tucker and midden sites (middens provide evidence of prior occupation). In eight years, Andrew has gone from waving signs at passing cars to drum up bookings to running a $1.3 million business, with profits funding health, education and training programs. The venture also provides employment for the local Indigenous community.

“We’ve come through a lot of change even in my short life span.

All of a sudden, for whatever reason, it’s really cool to be Aboriginal,” says Andrew.

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New-found confidence

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In Far North Queensland, Kuku Yalanji man Juan Walker from the Daintree/Mossman area guides visitors around his home territory north of Port Douglas. For Juan, his venture Walkabout Adventures isn’t only about sharing knowledge with tourists. “It allows me to stay on country,” he says. When he first entered the tourism industry – guiding guests at Daintree Eco Lodge & Spa – Juan had to battle to overcome his shyness. “It took me a while to be able to talk to strangers,” he says. “That was the hardest part.” Today, there’s no trace of that shy young man.

I join Juan as he confidently leads American visitors Joy and Tom to an uninhabited beach to search for pippis (cockles) in the wet sand. The pippis are the first ingredients needed for lunch. In Juan’s hometown of Cooya Beach we stalk through the shallows with bamboo spears hunting mud crabs.

Eventually, we bag enough to head back to Juan’s parents’ house for a feast of pippis and mudcrabs steamed in garlic, chilli, butter and coconut oil.

After lunch we head to nearby Mossman Gorge for an afternoon of swimming. Juan dives from a granite boulder into the Mossman River’s crystal-clear waters, making it look effortless. What’s simply a river, mountain or headland to most Australians is something else entirely to Indigenous Australians.

The next day we head further north to ride the Skyrail cableway, which travels 7.5km between Cairns and Kuranda. We disembark at Barron Falls to explore the rainforest in Barron Gorge National Park on an Indigenous ranger-led tour. Zane Saunders proudly mixes English with Djabugay, a local Indigenous language.

The Skyrail can be paired with

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On the Journey into Olkola Country tour. CLOCKWISE FROM FAR RIGHT: At Ernabella Arts; Indigenous storyteller Quenten Agius from Red Banks Conservation Park; artists at work at Ernabella Arts.

a tour of Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park (tjapukai.com. au), which last year unveiled a $13 million makeover. Here, visitors can watch Indigenous dancing, learn the finer points of throwing a boomerang and spear, and hear about the medicinal qualities of local plants. An interactive evening show finishes with a dramatic fireball shooting into the air. Tjapukai’s CEO, Greg Erwin, says one of the best parts of the experience is that visitors can chat with park staff, many of whom are Indigenous.

“Having a positive engagement with an Indigenous Australian is something that a lot of people don’t have the opportunity to do in their everyday life,” Greg says. “We find that people highly value that experience.”

People jumped at the chance to join a new Indigenous tour that launched in Cape York this

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PHOTOGRAPHY BEN MCNAMARA INTERPID TRAVEL, ERNABELLA ARTS TOURS, RED BANKS CONSERVATION PARK

Five of the best LEARN MORE ABOUT AUSTRALIA’S INDIGENOUS CULTURE WITH THESE TOURS 1. Tiwi by Design – Bathurst Island, NT Learn screen-printing from a local artist at the Tiwi Design art centre after exploring the Catholic mission precinct on Bathurst Island, part of the Tiwi Islands, on a one-day ferry tour from Darwin. sealinknt.com.au/tours/tiwi-by-design 2. Cultural tour - Shark Bay, WA Discover the cultural side of the Shark Bay World Heritage Area, an area 800km north of Perth incorporating Monkey Mia. Learn about the traditional and contemporary lifestyles of the region’s Aboriginal people on one of Shark Bay Coastal Tours’ 4WD expeditions. sharkbaycoastaltours.com.au 3. River cruise – Kakadu, NT Cruise the croc-infested East Alligator River while an Aboriginal guide shares local myths and legends, as well as tips on hunting and bush survival. The cruise runs daily from May to November. kakaduculturaltours.com.au/guluyambicultural-cruise 4. Take flight – Grampians, VIC A flying cockatoo inspired the fluid lines of the Brambuk National Park and Cultural Centre that provides information about western Victoria’s Grampians National Park and offers Indigenousthemed tours that showcase rock-art sites. brambuk.com.au 5. Dreaming stories – Clare Valley, SA Explore Red Banks Conservation Park, which is rich in Dreaming stories and mega-fauna sites, and visit an early British settler’s home in the Clare Valley, 100-kilometres north of Adelaide.

Aboriginal Cultural Tours South Australia run one-day or multi-day tours. aboriginalsa.com.au

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year. The six-day Journey into Olkola Country tour (intrepidtravel.com), which runs in cooler months, is a joint venture between Intrepid Travel and the Olkola people who were handed their land back in December 2014 after 30 years of campaigning. Intrepid co-founder, Geoff Manchester, attended the handover ceremony. “The emotion of getting their land back was just overwhelming for some of them,” says Geoff. “Their connection with the land was so obvious.” The tours, which return next year, include camping and yarning around a fire.

Heart of Australia This kind of simple, direct interaction is also now part of staying at Ayers Rock Resort.

After The Indigenous Land Corporation took over in 2011, establishing Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia to manage the resort, the number of Indigenous employees increased (there were only two at the time of the sale, today there are 309) along

with a program of free cultural activities such as listening to Indigenous storytellers and learning moves from an Indigenous dance troupe.

Guests can also buy paintings and carvings from an Indigenous art stall near the Town Square lawn area and join one of the artist-led dot-painting workshops. Those who want to delve even deeper can take a bush-tucker tour and learn how to find food in central Australia’s seemingly inhospitable landscape, thanks to tour group Spirit Emotion Intellect Task (SEIT).

As the sector continues to grow, the experiences are widening, catering to every type of traveller. Longitude 131°, the luxury property near Uluru, offers an Ernabella Arts tour – one of the newest experiences in the Indigenous Tourism Champions portfolio.

The tour takes guests into the closed community of Ernabella to meet the acclaimed resident ceramicists, watch them work, and try their hand at playing artist for the day.

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SINGAPORE

Singapore

A greener

SINGAPORE Despite its skyscrapers and shopping malls, Singapore has wonderful pockets of green just waiting to be explored

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WORDS LARISSA DUBECKI

PHOTO GETTY IMAGES

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h Singapore, how you’ve changed. This single-minded city-state has leapt from colonialism to futurism in a few bold steps. The Singapore of 2016 is the city as spectacle, a place carefully curated to dazzle the imagination, aided and abetted by engineers to whom the words ‘conceptually impossible’ or ‘ridiculously expensive’ are anathema.

If you haven’t been to Singapore in the past 10 years you really haven’t been to Singapore at all. Sure it’s the same tropical island perched at the tip of the Malay Peninsula; a concrete jungle so devoted to commerce that it feels at times as if there’s one air-conditioned shopping mall per head of population. And it remains so eerily clean and orderly.

But 53 years after late Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew planted a mempat tree to kickstart the national movement for tree planting, his vision is extant in the quasiJurassic Park sight of the Parkroyal on Pickering, where levitating palm trees and vine-choked balconies look like they’ve

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hatched a sinister plot to retake the 16-floor hotel. And then there are the spectacular unions of flora, fantasy and technology, foremost being the vaunted Gardens by the Bay where a laser show plays twice a night among 18 high-tech Supertrees, huge manmade structures destined forevermore to be compared to author John Wyndham’s terrifying fictional triffids.

But it’s still possible to discover a Singapore where being green doesn’t involve a 35-metre man-made waterfall inside a climatecontrolled bio-dome.

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To the island In a nation famous for its religious diversity and tolerance but where everyone worships at the altar of gadgetry, the 10-minute boat ride across the Johor Strait to the island of Pulau Ubin - one of Singapore’s 63 islands - represents the best kind of culture shock. It’s only a couple of kilometres from Singapore proper but feels like its 50 years back in time, a portal to what’s widely regarded as the last remaining kampong (traditional village) where residents live a life untroubled by running water or electricity.

Getting to Pulau Ubin is half the fun. From Changi Ferry Terminal at Singapore’s northeast, grab a bumboat – a wooden boat powered by

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a diesel engine so loud you’ll need to shout to be heard. Boats only take off when they’ve reached capacity (12 passengers) but if you don’t want to wait, you can pay S$36 (A$35) for the whole boat to get moving.

Pulau Ubin is Malay for Granite Island but the 3000-odd residents, mostly indigenous Malays who once called this 10.19 sq km island home, have long gone. Quiet Islamic cemeteries with simple stone markers are one of the few remaining echoes of the Muslim population, who have also since moved on.

These days the island is home to more than 100 ethnic Chinese reliant on fishing and tourists, although not necessarily in that order. Half a dozen bicycle rental shops line the main street, so take the hint: seeing Pulau Ubin is best done on two wheels. There are few cars and it’s an exhilarating form of cultural whiplash to go from the thirdmost densely populated territory in the world

Half a dozen bicycle rental shops line the main street, so take the hint: seeing Pulau Ubin is best done on two wheels

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PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, SINGAPORE TOURISM

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Boat crossing to Pulau Ubin, kayaking in the MacRitchie Reservoir, seafood restaurant sign on Pulau Ubin, Singapore Botanic Gardens, the Mandala Herb Garden at Open Farm Community, mountain biking on Pulau Ubin.

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(after Macau and Monaco) to weaving alone through forest thick with rubber trees, durian and jackfruit, and past the lily-covered ponds that once upon a time were fish farms.

The forest is busy reclaiming some of the abandoned ramshackle wooden houses, but others have signs of life – washing strung along the verandah, or neatly tended vegetable plots.

Airliners roar overhead from nearby Changi airport but otherwise the silence is punctuated by macaque monkeys arguing in the trees and the crowing of the occasional red junglefowl, a rather aristocratic-

looking ancestor of the domestic chicken.

Other idiosyncratic wildlife emerges on the island’s south-east in the Chek Jawa Wetlands, where a boardwalk across the water at low tide reveals curious two-legged mudskippers and carpet anemones. Even more idiosyncratic is the Tudorstyle house built by a wealthy British tea planter in the colonial period, complete with a decidedly optimistic fireplace. These days it’s an information centre; those craving colonial-style comforts for a stay on the island will have to be satisfied with the three-star Celestial Ubin Beach Resort or the three basic camping sites – register a day in advance for a camping permit, BYO tent, water and food, and pray the chatty monkeys have an early night.

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Food for thought Back on the main island, the paradox of modern Singapore asserts itself in its food culture. A dozen dishes, from Hainanese chicken rice to char kway teow (a stir-fried prawn, chicken and noodle dish), barbecued sambal stingray and chilli crab, jostle for supremacy as the national dish – yet Singapore grows only around 10 per cent of its produce. It’s a disconnect from the food obsession on the island, but in the green Dempsey Hill area (once a nutmeg plantation then later the home of British officers)

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The constant gardener Further west from Dempsey, another of the city’s green lungs takes the form of the MacRitchie Reservoir, where unspoiled jungle spools around Singapore’s oldest reservoir. Walking trails go deep into the forest – look out for the shy pangolin and water monitors – and detour over a 250-metre long suspension bridge for an arresting view over the treetops.

For natural beauty of a

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LET’S GO SCOOTING In a country where the average temperature hovers around 26.5 degrees it can be difficult to summon the motivation to exercise. You might find yourself gazing longingly at the businessmen zipping along on their motorised scooters as you prepare for a morning of pedal-powered sightseeing with Let’s Go Bike Singapore, but here’s the secret: Singapore traffic is orderly, and the city is flat – making the experience far less pain and much more gain. letsgobikesingapore.com LET’S GO STROLLING Pause to give thanks for the spreading canopy of the rain tree, which shades the uninterrupted, traffic-free path at East Coast Park, the place Singaporeans go for their after-work wind-down. It’s a 15-kilometre strip of reclaimed beachfront buttressed by a wide green park. Dotted along the way are clusters of restaurants, public barbecues (book online ahead of time) and gaggles of teenagers kicking soccer balls or splashing in the calm waters. nparks.gov.sg

The hybrid Vanda ‘Miss Joaquin’ is the national flower more cultivated kind, the 157-year-old Singapore Botanic Gardens is one of only three gardens in the world (and the only one in the tropics) to enjoy UNESCO World Heritage status. Orchids hold an exalted status in Singaporean culture – the hybrid Vanda ‘Miss

Joaquin’ is the national flower – and the orchid garden, a wonderland occupying the highest three hectares in the park, is worth the effort.

Here, nature is triaged into colours – there’s a summer zone of pinks and reds, a spring zone of golds and yellows, and perhaps most beautiful of all, the cool, crisp tones of winter. The winter orchids bloom, ghost-like, in the early morning, before the city has risen for the day and assumed its habitual cracking

pace. Five kilometres from downtown with its arrestingly futuristic hotel crowned with a boat and the laser-dancing garden, all is quiet and serene.

And not a triffid in sight.

Larissa Dubecki was a guest of Singapore Tourism

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Singapore from Melbourne.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTO ALAMY

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a restaurant is tentatively flying the flag for the farm-to-table ethos.

Spearheaded by renowned expat Australian chef Ryan Clift from Edible Garden City, a grow-your-own-food champion, Open Farm Community sits on a large plot (a reclaimed golf driving range behind the Jim Thompson Thai restaurant) where the breezy dining room is surrounded by an edible garden. The idea came out of Ryan’s frustration at importing herbs and flowers and throwing most of them away (due to spoilage). Taking a wander around reveals a wealth of plants such as tapioca, papaya and citronella that seem to grow in the humid tropical heat right in front of you before being snipped by chefs and turned into elegant modern food such as chimichurri with panfried sea bass with a green blanket of mint puree.

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NSW Albury Blacktown Broadway Brookvale Castle Hill Coffs Harbour Erina Griffith Hornsby Katoomba Lismore Macarthur Miranda Newcastle Orange Parramatta Penrith Ryde Sydney Taree

QLD Broadbeach Bundaberg Cairns Carindale Chermside Dalby Garbutt Helensvale Indooroopilly Loganholme Mackay Noosaville North Lakes Rockhampton Robina Toowoomba Townsville

SA Adelaide Mount Gambier TAS Devonport Launceston Hobart VIC Bendigo Croydon Echuca Sale Horsham Ringwood Geelong Swan Hill Shepparton Ballarat

NT Alice Springs Darwin Palmerston WA Albany Bunbury Geraldton Leederville Mandurah Midland Morley Perth Fremantle

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Walk this way

Looking to reconnect with the great outdoors?

Tasmania’s hiking is second to none WORDS MARK DAFFEY

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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asmania is Australia’s prettiest state, and it’s fair to say that’s no fluke. Close to half the island is protected under World Heritage, marine or forest reserve and national park classification. Its skies can be illuminated by the Aurora Australis like nowhere else, it contains the southern hemisphere’s largest untouched temperate rainforest and its plants and animals are survivors from the ancient Gondwana supercontinent.

Australia’s most southern state also has the nation’s bestpreserved colonial history, plus a growing reputation for quality fresh produce and cool-climate wines. The Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), a privatelyowned museum complex in Hobart, single-handedly lures visitors from afar and worldclass golfing, fly-fishing and luxury lodges attract their share of attention.

But when you escape these creature comforts, Tasmania’s 2000km of walking tracks step things up. Choose from routes along coastal paths, rainforest waterfalls, isolated mountains or rolling farmlands.

Here are five of the best, from simple day hikes to week-long expeditions.

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2. Bay of Fires L AUNCESTON 1. Overland Track 3. Wineglass Bay HOBART 4. Three Capes Track 5. South Coast Track

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There’s never a dull moment on Australia’s most iconic multi-day walk. The trail through the heart of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park is packed with breathtaking scenery from Ronny Creek to Cynthia Bay. Stick to the track and there’s no section that’s overly difficult; you’re hiking through glacier-carved valleys and across buttongrass moorlands for much of the time. The exceptions are the climbs to Marion’s Lookout, the steepest section on the trail, and over Pelion Gap and Du Cane Gap. To really appreciate this national park, add two or three extra days to your itinerary and squeeze in side trips to waterfalls and summit plateaus. The hike to the top of Cradle Mountain will reward you with spectacular views over Barn Bluff and Dove Lake.

You can climb Tasmania’s highest peak, Mt Ossa. Or hike to The Acropolis for views over spectacular dolerite needles.

If you really want to up the ante, try tackling this trail in winter. Not only can you walk it in the reverse direction at this time (hikers must walk from north to south between 1 October and 31 May), but it’s also free. Alternatively, sign up for a guided tour with Cradle Mountain Huts and be spoilt by toasty accommodation, firstclass meals and drying rooms for your sodden gear.

LENGTH: 65km DAYS: 6 LEVEL: Not for first-timers BEST TIME: March-April HIGHLIGHT: Approaching the solitary, volcanic Barn Bluff TIP: Come prepared for poor weather OPERATOR: Tasmanian Walking Company; taswalkingco.com.au AIRPORT: Launceston

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To really appreciate this national park, add two or three extra days to your itinerary

2. BAY OF FIRES

Walk along the powderfine sands stretching along Tasmania’s north-eastern frontier and you’ll wonder what it must be like to live here and have these beaches to yourself.

Why we don’t see and hear more about the stretch of coast from Musselroe Point to Binalong Bay, near St Helens, is a mystery. If it was in Queensland, photographs of its sun-kissed beaches would be plastered all over billboards and magazines. Best of all, there are oodles of free campsites.

Most of the hike is on sand – some firm, some soft – and that makes it hard going at times. Start at Stumpys Bay and head south to the pink granite lighthouse at Eddystone Point.

Continue to Purdon Bay, where surfers chase peaky waves, then finish at a headland called The Gardens.

Aromatic kunzea flowers perfume inland detours as you weave between peppermint gums and sheoaks. Keep an eye out for Bennetts wallabies, endemic Forester kangaroos and yellow-tailed black cockatoos.

LENGTH: 43km DAYS: 3 LEVEL: Intermediate BEST TIME: November-March HIGHLIGHT: Watching the sunrise across the ocean TIP: Bring a hand line. This is one of Tasmania’s best regions for fishing OPERATOR: Life’s An Adventure; lifesanadventure.com.au AIRPORT: Launceston

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T t b e PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

1. OVERLAND TRACK

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Breathe deep...

Spring is a time for you to pause and take a deep breath after a busy winter. These two events in beautiful northern Tasmania will help you breathe deep, relax and enjoy Spring...

Come and smell the roses...

Woolmers Estate

Festival of Roses Sunday 13 Nov 2016 • 9am - 4pm Special guests include celebrity chef Ben Milbourne, author and TV presenter Indira Naidoo and guest speaker Doug Hawkins at the Men’s Spot.

Numerous stalls including: Great selection of Tassie foods & wine Music • Vintage cars & farm machinery Jewellery & craft • Woolmers Art Exhibition Gardening books • Plant nurseries Entry $10 per adult or $15 for 2 adults Children under 16 free. Pre-purchase tickets at theatrenorth.com.au or 03 6323 3666 www.woolmers.com.au /WoolmersEstateFestivalOfRoses  Woolmers Estate, Longford, Tas • Ph 6391 2230 Naming Rights Partner

Enjoy a Breath of Fresh Air...

The Tasmanian Breath of Fresh Air (BOFA) Film Festival is intimate, thought-provoking and fun. It’s a film festival that’s small enough to be friendly - not a black T-shirt or snooty attitude in sight - but big enough to be international in perspective.

BOFA serves up 37 features, 50+ short films, film-making master-classes, a Smart City action session, parties and Tassie’s renowned food and wine.

So take a deep breath and join us at Tasmania’s Breath of Fresh Air Film (BOFA) Festival at Launceston’s Inveresk Precinct.

Thursday 10 - Sunday 13 Nov

www.bofa.com.au

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4. THREE CAPES TRACK

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If overnight hikes aren’t your scene, or you don’t have the right gear, the day hike to Wineglass Bay will fill the void.

Park outside the Freycinet Visitor Centre, where the track zigzags up to a saddle connecting Mounts Amos and Mayson – two-fifths of the Hazards Range you’ll be crossing. A short sidetrack leads to a lookout offering postcard-perfect views over Wineglass Bay. Push on and you’ll descend through shady yellow-gum trees to the bay. Dip your toes in some of the clearest ocean water imaginable before crossing the narrow isthmus to Hazard’s Beach. Here, you’ll find evidence of Aboriginal shell middens in the dunes.

That’s one-third of the threeday, 30km Freycinet Peninsula Circuit that bears remarkable similarities to Victoria’s Wilson’s Promontory. Think granite boulders covered in orange lichen, quartzite sand beaches, a flowering coastal heath and aquamarine bays.

LENGTH: 11km DAYS: 1 LEVEL: Beginner BEST TIME: December-April HIGHLIGHT: The Wineglass Bay lookout TIP: Bring your bathers OPERATOR: Freycinet Experience Walk; freycinet.com.au/walk AIRPORT: Hobart

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Dramatic rock formations at Cape Hauy; stunning coastal rocks at Wineglass Bay; The view to Wineglass Bay; Cape Pillar on the Three Capes Track.

LENGTH: 46km DAYS: 4 LEVEL: An ideal introductory multi-day hike BEST TIME: January-March HIGHLIGHT: Standing 300m above ocean at Cape Pillar TIP: Charge devices via USB ports inside the track’s hut accommodation OPERATOR: Tasmanian Parks & Wildlife Service; parks.tas.gov.au AIRPORT: Hobart

A view worth the hike!

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY

3. WINEGLASS BAY

You could be forgiven for thinking you’d reached world’s end as the southern hemisphere’s highest sea cliffs plunge underfoot.

Despite some $25 million spent readying the new kid on the block for its December 2015 opening, the Three Capes Track is an anomaly.

So far the track only connects two capes – Pillar and Hauy – and it may remain that way unless fresh funds surface to develop the track to the third cape, Raoul.

An hour-long scenic cruise across water from Port Arthur deposits you at Denman’s Cove. From this point, you’ll hike along velvety paths.

Feel the forces of nature as you skirt Tornado Ridge and traverse Hurricane Heath before standing at the edge of the abyss at Cape Pillar.

Then it’s on to Cape Hauy, where rock climbers scale a slender dolerite column known as the Totem Pole, before finishing in Fortescue Bay – surely one of the country’s finest beaches.

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5. SOUTH COAST TRACK

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Forget about Facebook.

Ignore Pokémon GO. Escape the Kardashians. This is hard-core trekking at its rawest, deep inside the vast expanses of the Southwest National Park.

Access to this track starts with a flight from Hobart to a handmade airstrip at Melaleuca.

Then it’s 84km on foot over two mountain ranges, following Aboriginal trade and migration routes that doubled as escape paths for shipwrecked sailors, back to Cockle Creek – literally, the end of the road.

Camp by beaches, ford rushing creeks, plough through muddy bogs, row across wind-whipped lagoons, scramble over tree roots and pick off bloodsucking leeches while polar winds and the Roaring Forties batter you to tears. What’s not to like?

LENGTH: 84km DAYS: 7-9 LEVEL: Challenging BEST TIME: December-March HIGHLIGHT: Crossing the Ironbound Range near the track’s midpoint TIP: Fly into Melaleuca to avoid weather-related flight delays OPERATOR: Tasmanian Expeditions; tasmanianexpeditions.com.au AIRPORT: Hobart

Hiking essentials Sweeping heath views in Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. BELOW LEFT: Deserted beaches on the South Coast Track.

BELOW RIGHT: The South Cape Rivulet on the South Coast Track.

• A daypack big enough to carry a raincoat, water and snacks • For multi-day hikes, a 60l+ backpack fitted to your body shape • Sturdy lace-up hiking boots or shoes • Waterproof jacket and overpants • Hiking shorts or pants; swimwear for coastal hikes • Fleece top and warm pants • Thermal underwear (top and bottom) • Gloves and beanie • Gaiters for protection against snake bites • Hat and sunscreen • Water bottle or bladder • Printed maps (don’t expect reliable phone coverage) • Sleeping bag and foam sleeping mattress • Head torch • Adequate fitness level

FIND OUT MORE TOURISM TASMANIA discovertasmania.com.au

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PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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Once an empty slum of backstreets and litter, Chippendale is now an internationally acclaimed arts precinct. How on earth did they do it?

PHOTOGRAPHY IAN HOBBS MEDIA, SASKIA WILSON, ANDREW WORSSAM

WORDS GEORGIA RICKARD

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PHOTOGRAPHY IAN HOBBS MEDIA, SASKIA WILSON, ANDREW WORSSAM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Brickfields café, Su Xinping’s Untitled No. 1 at White Rabbit Gallery, the University of Sydney building designed by Frank Gehry. OPPOSITE PAGE: Jennifer Turpin and Michaelie Crawford’s wind-activated Halo sculpture.

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ABOVE: Street art tour by Culture Scouts Walking Tours.

RIGHT: The Old Clare Hotel.

conditions had become so unsanitary an entire street was demolished and, in 1905, Sydney’s Lord Mayor declared the area “deplorable”.

By 1911 the brewery covered 2.5ha, and its tall, imposing doors stayed open for business until 2005.

“Chippendale was an actual desert, that’s the only way to describe it,” declares gallerist Nicky Ginsberg over a cup of peppermint tea in Chippendale’s chic Glider KS Café. “The streets were so quiet you could hear a pin drop.”

Chippendale’s crime rates had dropped by the ’80s, but in 2006, when Nicky found an old church for sale, it was still the kind of place

The streets were so quiet you could hear a pin drop taxi drivers avoided.

Nicky fell in love with the church and, despite her friends’ opinions that she must be mad, snapped it

up immediately.

“I have a background in art and food, and I’d long wanted to combine the two in a restaurant and gallery space,” she explains. “I also loved the beautiful tree-lined streets, plus the grittiness, the bohemia – it reminded me of Paris.”

To gain a planning permit and turn her

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e’ll be honest: Chippendale hasn’t always been the kind of place you’d like to visit. Less a suburb than a set of laneways, squeezed between more important bits of Sydney (Chinatown, Surry Hills, Broadway and Sydney’s Central Station), it was for many decades, the kind of place you wouldn’t walk through at night.

But this isn’t another story about a suburb that found its groove, it’s the tale of a gallerist, a property developer and a philanthropist, who converged on the same 700 sq m of Sydney at the same time and had the same idea: to turn it into a world-class destination.

Today’s headlines talk about Chippendale as a global success story, attracting talent on a scale that has everyone from architectural digests to museum curators talking. But how could so much happen in just 10 short years?

Chippendale’s fall from grace began in 1835, when Tooth and Co. built an enormous brewery amid the suburb’s many factories. The unfortunate addition attracted unsavoury types, while the smoke, fumes and overflowing sewage helped Chippendale earn its nickname, “Eau de Cologne Valley”. By 1870,

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Arty architecture By 2009, the site became known as Central Park, and included several boundary-pushing creations: a sustainable skyscraper, covered in vines, by acclaimed landscape artist Patrick

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The Central Park development with vertical ladnscaping by Patrick Blanc.

BELOW: Barista at Glider café.

Dr Chau Chak Wing building (aka the Brown Paper Bag building), was unveiled last year Blanc (it’s the world’s tallest vertical garden), a series of outdoor sculptures set in a beautiful lawn and garden (including Turpin and Crawford’s two-storey wind sculpture, The Halo), a shopping centre filled with uber-cool stores such as Japanese two-dollar shop Daiso, and Sydney’s coolest new boutique hotel, The Old Clare.

Meanwhile, worldfamous architect Frank Gehry agreed to design a building at the University of Technology Sydney across the road.

One of Sydney’s most breathtaking odes to architecture, the headline-grabbing Dr Chau Chak Wing building (aka the Brown Paper Bag building), was unveiled last year.

So many things happened here so quickly, that when local Emilya Colliver returned from working in Europe, where she’d been building her career as a gallerist with the likes of the British Museum and Lisson Gallery in London, she barely recognised the area. “Walking the streets here is like walking through an outdoor gallery,” she says.

She’s not wrong: thanks largely to Nicky’s efforts, there are now 24 galleries in the suburb and insanely beautiful buildings such as Judith Neilson’s Guggenheimesque private residence, inspired by the work of Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida, and heritagelisted Strickland House, the grand, 1914 building that served as Sydney’s first public housing. And there’s more to come - keep your eye out for Phoenix, the upcoming $32m project being touted as Sydney’s answer to

PHOTOGRAPHY GLIDER CAFE, ALAMY

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church into a successful gallery, the property needed to become part of a gallery precinct. Nicky, in other words, would need to convince other galleries to join her.

Here’s where things get weird. Nicky had barely set about her task when billionaire philanthropist and art collector Judith Neilson decided she wanted to open a gallery here too and snapped up a building around the corner.

Today, Judith’s White Rabbit Gallery houses the world’s largest collection of contemporary Chinese art outside the Republic.

White Rabbit is a fourlevel, billion-dollar wonderland of political pop art and gigantic sculptures, where you can stroll in, take a crazycool guided tour by an educated staff member, and stroll out again without paying a cent.

That’s right, entry is free.

There must have been something in the water in 2006. Down the road at the brewery site, about-tobe property developer Dr Stanley Quek was struck with the idea of turning the collection of heritage buildings into a miniature arts precinct.

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If you are joining Emilya on a day trip, you’ll also need your taste buds.

Chippendale is home to so many award-winning eateries that Culture Scout itineraries change regularly. You could find yourself enjoying hot, crusty quiche from award-winning cafébakery Brickfields, piquant dumplings from the hidden laneway of hawker-style street food stalls, Spice Alley, or a sweet treat at Koi, the imaginative dessert bar by MasterChef star Reynold Poernomo. Wander in here and you’ll find phantasmagoric creations (think green, jelly-like globes encircled in milk chocolate, and Nutellaflavoured cakes splattered in edible, glittery nuts) in a space that’s half bakery, half florist.

“You have go to Ester, too,” Emilya says. Here you can sit down to an award-winning feed for two, knock back a couple of wines each, and leave for $80 a person. Or

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head a couple of blocks over to Automata, the restaurant of an ex-Noma chef, which serves up a five-course degustation with gourmet credibility for a very reasonable $88.

Chippendale has become a premier food district, without the outlandish price tags.

It’s amazing that it all happened the way it did “It’s amazing that it all happened the way it did,” Nicky says. “A combination of luck, synchronicity of thought and hard work.”

We reckon a whole lot of elbow grease, and a touch of magic had something to do with it too.

Art spaces worth visiting Emilya Colliver reveals Culture Scout’s top picks WELLINGTON STREET PROJECTS “This is an artist-run space, which means it’s not always open. But the art is really fresh and raw, with some really daring works. It’s just behind White Rabbit, where the frangipani tree is.” wellingtonstprojects.com FREDAS “This is a neighbourhood bar, not a gallery, but once a month they do a crazy light installation with sound and video – sort of like a miniature Vivid, crossed with an art bar. It’s also a fantastic spot for a drink.” facebook.com/fredas. sydney WHITE RABBIT “You just have to go. Start at the top of the elevator and ask for Phyllis at the amazing library – she’s Judith’s sister, and will look after you.” whiterabbitcollection.org

TINY TAILOR “You would never know to look for this little place, but it’s worth seeking out. Expect stylish but affordable ceramics, furniture, sculptures, prints and more, from $50 plus.” tinytailor.com.au GALERIE POMPOM “One of Chippendale’s real success stories – representing 18 Sydney and Melbourne artists.

Exhibitions change every four weeks.” galeriepompom.com LORD GLADSTONE HOTEL “This pub has a space upstairs, The Good Space, where a lot of street artists show. There’s also a [monthly changing] great piece of street art out the back, too.” lordgladstone.com.au

Brickfields café.

INSET: Artist Zhang Dali’s Chinese Offspring at White Rabbit Gallery.

PHOTOGRAPHY WHITE RABBIT GALLERY, GETTY IMAGES

Hobart’s MONA, too.

Emilya loved the area so much that, despite a flourishing art business, she decided to set up local walking tours.

“Culture Scouts offers walking tours with a difference,” she says.

“The area’s interiors, design, architecture and paintings are really quite special. It was important to include those aspects in our tours, not just the obvious stuff.”

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Taumarunui in the heart of the King Country

Auckland

in the middle of everywhere!

If you are exploring New Zealand and want to experience Ruapehu District and Gisborne its authentic heartland you need to find your way to Taumarunui Taupo Taumarunui in the central North Island in an area known as the ‘King Country’. The name ‘King Country’ dates from New Plymouth National Park the land wars in the 1860’s when the Maori King Tawhiao Ohakune evidently threw his top hat down on a map of the central Waiouru Napier North Island and proclaimed the region under the hat as being under Maori sovereignty with all pakeha (white Whanganui people) under threat of death if they came into the area.

Today a large portrait sign of King Tawhiao welcomes travellers to Taumarunui’s northern entrance.

43 The Lavender Farm cafe on SH43 just outside Taumarunui

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The Forgotten World Highway (also known as State Highway 43) is a memorable driving journey.

Built on 19th century bridle paths, the highway connects Taumarunui to Stratford. The route passes through four mountain saddles, an eerie one-way tunnel and an amazing river gorge.

Wellington

Ongarue River

Taumarunui has a renowned 18 hole golf course

Free phone

Cherry Grove Reserve

0800 647 483

“Taumarunui on the Main Trunk Line” is a well known song about Taumarunui’s early rail history

More info? see: www.taumarunui.co.nz

Whanganui River

Cherry Grove Reserve is the start of the Whanganui Journey, the only river journey that is part of New Zealand’s Great Walks network.

Cherry Grove is loacted where the Whanganui and Ongarue Rivers meet. From here you can take a canoe or jet boat journey down the river. The Whanganui River above Taumarunui also has world class trout fishing.

Forgotten World Adventures self drive rail cart journey on the decommissioned Ohura to Stratford railway has full day, half day and overnight options.

Taumarunui is an official Motor Home Friendly town!

Taumarunui is a gateway to the Central Plateau and the World Heritage Tongariro and Whanganui National Parks, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and Ruapehu’s ski fields and southern townships.

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Taupo

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41 Taumarunui is the southern base for starting the Pureora Timber Trail for cyclists or walkers and is one of New Zealand’s Great Rides.

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TRAVELLING on the EDGE ADVENTURE TRAVEL USUALLY MEANS CYCLING AND TREKKING BUT IF YOU’RE IN NEW ZEALAND, IT ALSO MEANS DOING THESE THINGS ON AN ACTIVE VOLCANO WORDS SARAH BENNETT

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ecalling the destruction wrought by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the prospect of holidaying in the shadow of one of the world’s most active volcanoes may seem questionable. But this isn’t Naples and the year isn’t 17AD. It’s modern-day New Zealand where smoking craters, steaming mud pools and gushing geysers keep seismologists (earthquake experts) on their toes and give folks something to talk about on a daily basis. For most Kiwis – me included – the country’s crazy volcanic activity is more a source of wonder than fear.

Most of the hot stuff seeping and spurting out through the earth’s crust lines, along what is known as the Taupo Volcanic Zone, spread roughly between White Island/ Whakaari – a steaming sulphur pot off the Bay of Plenty coast – through to Tongariro National Park, a superstrange volcanic landscape in the heart of the North Island. The eggysmelling tourist town of Rotorua (affectionately known as ‘Sulpher Town’) lies in between.

Rotorua is deservedly popular for its combination of vibrant Maori culture and lively geothermal parks such as Te Puia and Wai-o-Tapu, but their wafting steam, weird silica terraces and colourful cascades are mere frippery when compared to the mighty firepower on show in Tongariro National Park. Lying to the south of Lake Taupo – itself an ancient caldera now filled to the brim – this is New Zealand’s oldest national park, awarded dual UNESCO World Heritage status for its outstanding natural features and cultural significance. The skyline of Tongariro is dominated by three active volcanoes, Mount

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the country’s crazy volcanic activity is more a source of wonder than fear Ruapehu (the North Island’s highest mountain at 2797m), Mount Ngauruhoe (2291m) and Mount Tongariro (1978m), which last erupted in 2012.

Such important facts remained lost on me all those years I drove across the so-called Central Plateau, on the stretch of State Highway 1 aptly named Desert Road. What has always been impossible to ignore, however, is the magnetic pull of the massive volcanic forms standing foreboding above the rocky, tussock-fluffed plateau.

My first visits to the park were work social-club ski trips in my early 20s, thwarted – as I recall – by dodgy weather, hangovers, and an inability to actually ski. Returning after many years overseas having developed a keen interest in stuff like rocks, trees and critters – a direct and unexpected effect of becoming a travel writer – Tongariro National Park suddenly looked like a place I should get to know with my equally curious husband in tow.

PREVIOUS: The natural high of a mountain climb.

THIS PAGE FROM TOP LEFT: Low trails near Whakapapa; The Emerald Lakes on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing; The joy of reaching the top of the mountain; Knoll Ridge Cafe on Mount Ruapehu.

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PHOTOGRAPHY KNOLL RIDGE CAFE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, VISIT RUAPEHU

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Since then we’ve returned for several ski trips at Ruapehu’s twin fields, Whakapapa and Turoa.

Combined, they are New Zealand’s largest ski area, and with a major new chairlift whirring into life by next winter there’s even more reason to go. But snow sports, I have discovered, are just the tip of the iceberg. One of New Zealand’s nine great walks, the three- to fourday, intermediate level Tongariro Northern Circuit, circumnavigates Mount Ngauruhoe, taking in a sizable stretch of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – regularly touted as one of New Zealand’s finest daywalks. Both trails boast a wide array of eerie landforms such as moonlike craters, fumeroles and the surreal Emerald Lakes. A tough climb up to the crater rim of Ngauruhoe – the mountain that starred as Mount Doom in The Lord of the Rings – is topped by a viewpoint that is nothing short of mind-blowing.

There are many other hikes up, down and around the mountains, including a guided hike to Ruapehu’s crater lake that takes a welcome shortcut, via the Whakapapa chairlifts, to an altitude of 2020m where New Zealand’s highest café clings to a rocky ridge.

When we attempted the hike this autumn, the groovy, glass-fronted café proved a neat place to hang out after our climb was cut short by creeping cloud cover. Tongariro’s steaming vents and craters are just part of the picture, with otherworldly oddities revealed throughout the national park. As well as ancient lava flows, alpine herb fields and dazzling waterfalls, there are pockets of forest still regenerating from eruptions past.

Ohakune’s Old Coach Road, on Ruapehu’s southern slopes, is another great place to spy a

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range of trees, ferns and other plants. Amid various birdlife is the beautiful kereru, Aotearoa’s native wood pigeon, and its beady-eyed falcon, the karearea. The overgrown bridleway was rediscovered after nearly 100 years, and is now a 15-kilometre cycling and walking trail featuring cobblestones and photogenic railway viaducts. It’s now one of New Zealand’s best halfday mountain bike adventures for riders of medium ability, and can also be walked, one way, in about five hours.

The Coach Road forms part of the epic, 217-kilometre Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail, one of 23 Great Rides within the New Zealand Cycle Trail network. Most of it is best suited to intermediate-grade riders, and not – I can attest – a frivolous fun-fest in the wet. It is, however, an opportunity to explore a remote stretch of the mystical Whanganui River, with the bonus of a jet boat ride or kayaking adventure for the eager (October-April only).

Watery fun in the area is not restricted to the Whanganui River. On our last trip we stopped

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off at Mangaweka Adventure Company, around halfway between Palmerston North and Tongariro National Park. As well as offering tranquil camping and cabin accommodation on the banks of the Rangitikei River, they run leisurely rafting and kayaking trips through the impressive, clay gorge.

At Tongariro we went stand-up paddle boarding (SUP) on Lake Otamangakau, 20 minutes’ drive from National Park Village. At 615m above sea level, this is the highest SUP tour in Australasia. Probably the coldest, too, if you were unfortunate enough to fall in.

Paddling out onto the tranquil lake in the early morning was a nigh-on spiritual experience, enhanced by a surreal mist lifting to reveal Mount Tongariro from a perspective I’d never seen before.

There are many sides to this magical national park if you know where to look. visitruapehu.com Sarah Bennett travelled to Tongariro National Park with the assistance of Visit Ruapehu and Destination Manawatu

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to New Zealand with connections to Palmerston North.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY WHANGANUI CHRIS MCLENNON, DESTINATION LAKE TAUPO

Whanganui National Park.

BELOW: A kereru bird, New Zealand’s native wood pigeon.

PALMERSTON NORTH Surrounded by rolling farmland in the Manawatu region of the lower North Island, Palmerston North (population 80,000) is a busy rural and university town.

An expanding airport and easy access to State Highway 1 – New Zealand’s primary road route – makes it a convenient gateway not only to Tongariro National Park but also other neighbouring regions such as Taranaki, Hawke’s Bay, the Wairarapa, and Wellington just two hours’ drive south.

At the heart of the city is a pretty town square, surrounded by a shopping precinct liberally sprinkled with cafés and restaurants. The George Street area is particularly vibrant with a touch of the arty and alternative. Nearby is Te Manawa Museum of Art, Science and History, a modern museum with a satisfying combination that also incorporates the New Zealand Rugby Museum.

Just 10 minutes’ drive from the city centre is the entrance to Te Apiti, also known as Manawatu Gorge, where a snaking highway offers access to bush walks and the highly recommended Bridge Café.

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All for a laugh

Two comedians head to Tasmania to work in real estate, all in the name of side-splitting research WORDS JAYNE D’ARCY

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elia and Luke.

It could be the name of a clothing boutique. Or a new café in Melbourne’s Collingwood, where we meet. But it’s really the names of a comedic duo who went to extremes to make sure they got along before writing and filming the new ABC comedy Rosehaven.

Set in Tasmania, near where Luke McGregor grew up, Rosehaven revolves around a smalltown real estate agency.

Research was simple.

“Celia and I went to work with mum and dad for 10 days,” says Luke. Yes, his folks are Tasmanian real estate agents.

“We pretended to be real estate agents,” Celia says. “That was before we started the writing process; to see how we would get along for an extended period of time. So I lived with his parents for 10 days.”

“We did everything together,” Luke says.

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“We lived together, stayed in the same spot together without a break, got drunk together – everything we could do to try to test the relationship.”

And now they’re married, he jokes. Celia looks at Luke: “Can you get an opposite conjoined twin operation?” she asks. “Yes,” replies Luke. “Detachable for emergencies though,” Celia says.

As well as being two of Australia’s most in-demand stand-up comics, Luke and Celia have become fixtures on our airwaves. Luke Warm Sex, Luke’s frankly honest comedy documentary, was a hit for ABC earlier this year, while Celia has walked the line between comedy and drama with starring roles in shows including Offspring and The Beautiful Lie. They started “riffing” about writing something while working on another ABC comedy, Utopia. “It was just us hanging out

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The mainland could have floated away and you’d have no idea. The rest of the world doesn’t exist off set and talking a lot of rubbish,” Celia says. “And finding out we had the same sense of humour,” adds Luke.

Luke’s Rosehaven character is a little bit like him. “It’s kind of me if I didn’t know I liked comedy, or just didn’t have comedy in my life, and wanted to take over the family business,” he explains. Is there a happy ending with the character? “He’s more proactive,” Celia says.

“He’s still sh$#, don’t get me wrong. You don’t want a show about a guy who’s really good at real estate, that’s the worst show I’ve ever heard of.”

After establishing they could indeed work together, they found themselves, almost mid-winter, filming in Tasmania for nine weeks.

“The mainland could have floated away and you’d have no idea. The rest of the world doesn’t exist!” Celia says.

Will they be allowed back onto the island?

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Celia and Luke on location in Tasmania for Rosehaven.

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“I was pretty adamant not to have any jokes about two heads in there, so I hope so,” Luke says.

“It’s a very warm portrayal of Tassie,” Celia says. “It was never ‘he he, let’s go in and make fun of them and never go back’,” she says.

“Yeah, we’re probably the two biggest idiots in the show,” Luke says.

“And it showcases how beautiful it is,” Celia says. “If anything, it’s an advertisement for Tassie.

They might be mad at us for having (insert funny voice) ‘too many tourists’ after the show.”

Celia’s own Tassie sightseeing experiences didn’t go so well. “I went up to Mount Wellington once. I got out of the car and it was so cold. So I saw nothing. I could have just put my face in the freezer and stayed home.”

With two comedians running the show, you’d expect shenanigans on set, but one of their more unusual moments involves a local.

“On our first day of a test shot, this guy came out of his house, got in his car and started doing burn-outs. Like, a metre away from us. And we had to wait for all the smoke to clear,” says Luke says.

“What I thought was total rock star was that he didn’t even look at us.

And then went straight back into his house,” Celia

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Welcome to Rosehaven. Celia and Luke in Tasmania with some of the cast of the show.

says. “Very business-like,” Luke agrees.

Luke admits that filming probably annoyed some locals. “If you’re filming inside, you’ll see cars in the reflection of the windows, so you have to stop traffic because the town’s supposed to be a quiet town. But to the people of New Norfolk [where parts of Rosehaven was filmed], it just looks like a guy with a stop sign and empty streets, and no reason to stop. If we do it again, I think we should get some fake road workers!”

Post filming and back in Melbourne, where they both live, the duo found

They might be mad at us for having (insert funny voice) ‘too many tourists’ after the show themselves missing each other. “We both didn’t text each other,” says Celia. “It was like: I want to know what he’s doing... but also I should probably leave him alone.”

They both jumped back into Melbourne’s standup scene. “We didn’t do

a gig for two and a half months and we felt rusty,” says Celia. “I had to get up as soon as possible. And your mind goes: ‘oh, I’ve forgotten how to do this!”

It was a rude shock for Celia. “So many hipsters!” she says. “I’d forgotten about that from being in Tassie, as well!”

Rosehaven airs on ABC TV on Wednesday nights at 9pm from 12 October.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Tasmania from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

12/09/2016 3:02 PM

Adrenaline pumping dance on ice.

LE PATIN LIBRE

VERTICAL INFLUENCES

STAR TREK: THE ULTIMATE VOYAGE Performed live by the

SAT 15—SAT 22 OCTOBER O’Brien Group Arena, Docklands

Celebrating 50 years of Star Trek’s musical achievements.

The Annual China Southern Airlines Concert at the

SIDNEY MYER MUSIC BOWL

SAT 08 OCTOBER

MELBOURNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

~ THE TIMES Funny, sad and raucously rude. A play about singing, sex and Sambuca!

NATIONAL THEATRE OF SCOTLAND AND LIVE THEATRE

OUR LADIES OF PERPETUAL SUCCOUR

THU 06—SAT 22 OCTOBER Arts Centre Melbourne, Fairfax Studio

BOOK NOW www.festival.melbourne

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Explore I NSW NORTH COAST

Keep up guys!

Hunter Valley

Port Stephens Newcastle

SYDNEY

FLY INTO NEWCASTLE AND DISCOVER A REGION THAT DELIVERS ON CITY, SURF AND GREAT FOOD AND WINE FOR A BEACH escape, city staycation and wine holiday all rolled into one, look no further than the New South Wales North Coast. Providing a dose of culture on the bay, Newcastle is shaking off its industrial image and fast becoming one of Australia’s most exciting cities. An hour north, life moves at an easy pace in Port Stephens, a laid-back beach town in a pristine natural setting. Inland, the historic Hunter Valley wine region abounds with heritage vineyards, rural beauty and gourmet experiences. Why not combine all three for the ultimate North Coast adventure?

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PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NEWCASTLE, ALAMY

NORTHWARD

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Explore I NSW NORTH COAST

The vibrant Newcastle waterfront. BELOW: Dining at The Honeysuckle Hotel.

Year-round blue skies

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#1 NEWCASTLE

Brand new day IN inner-city Newcastle’s Cooks Hill, doctors, architects, and the Crossfit crew mingle with mums with prams and a tattooed hipster walking his labradoodle. At Welsh Black, baristas emblazoned with tattoos and sporting copious facial hair serve single origin brews. The streets are lined with fig trees, historic terrace houses, and art galleries.

This is Newcastle, my city; a city on the brink of change, best known for its biggest exports, Silverchair, Jennifer Hawkins, Ben Lexcen and coal.

First timers, or those who haven’t visited Australia’s second-oldest city in a while, often marvel at the enviable lifestyle Novocastrians enjoy. You can take your pick of magnificent beaches strung along the coastline from the city to Merewether (and easily get a carpark).

You can head out for a surf before work, get a decent coffee (try the beachside Blue

Door kiosk), or a handcrafted local beer at Grain Store, and dine at Reserve Wine Bar on a menu created by Cory Campbell, former head chef of Melbourne’s Vue de Monde.

Cory, who plans to open his own restaurant, is typical of the city’s changing face, as Novocastrians return to roost putting newfound talents into their own businesses. Over on Merewether’s main drag, Hal Gibbs and Kristy Mujana are also representative of the new guard, having moved back from Sydney to open Esther C, a hip new café churning out ‘50s and ‘60s grooves along with superb coffee.

ON TRACK In the city, the long-awaited removal of the rail line has spurred things on. Level crossings and pedestrian overpasses are being dismantled, opening up the bustling harbourfront, while a flash new courthouse has

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been unveiled at Civic Square.

Cranes dot the skyline as new developments reach for the sky and real estate prices head north with them.

In Newcastle’s longneglected west end, Silverchair bass player Chris Joannou’s café, restaurant and bar, The Edwards, has transformed the dead-end Parry Street. At the other end of the strip, Parry Street Garage marries the city’s industrial past with a hip warehouse playground of food and wine.

To fully appreciate Newcastle’s coastal glory, start at the new Anzac Memorial Walk – the jewel in Newcastle’s Bathers Way – its 450-metre clifftop span affording 360-degree views of the Pacific Ocean and out to the Hunter Valley. From there take a walk along the

break wall, marvelling at the imposing lighthouse at Nobbys Headland and huge container ships guided into port by the fleet of hard-working tug boats. It’s not uncommon to spot dolphins, or the odd seal sunbaking on the rocks.

Take a dip at the historic Newcastle Baths, lunch at Restaurant Mason, with its white linen tablecloths flapping in the breeze, then take a class at Yoga Loft with its 180-degree views of the coastline. As the sun sets enjoy alfresco sundowners at the Merewether Surfhouse, flanked by multimillion dollar real estate, as surfers catch the last wave of the day.

Or head to MoneyPenny, a contemporary cocktail bar on the harbourfront at Honeysuckle. It’s Newcastle, but not as you know it.

PHOTOGRAPHY DOLPHIN SWIM AUSTRALIA, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, GETTY IMAGES

WORDS SHERIDEN RHODES

12/09/2016 3:03 PM

Tree or ski change anyone?

The stunning Lothlorien is for sale!

This unique architecturally designed property is only 35 mins to the Victorian snowfields of Falls Creek & includes: • 4411m2 (over 1 acre) of land including a babbling creek & timber bridge • Gorgeous double story country home comprised of antique double brick downstairs, western red cedar upstairs & surrounding deck • Huge western red cedar barn (self-contained accom) with breathtaking views from the upstairs loft/bedroom of Mt Bogong (tallest mountain in Vic)

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Explore I NSW NORTH COAST

#2 PORT STEPHENS

A swim on the wild side PAUL EWART EXPLORES PORT STEPHENS WITH A PRISTINE bay twice the size of Sydney Harbour, the largest sand dunes in the Southern Hemisphere and a world record number of humpback whale sightings, Port Stephens national park-flanked beaches are a coastal New South Wales gem.

Kickstart your adventure by checking into boutique, self-contained apartments, Marty’s at Little Beach. Nestled between two of the town’s prettiest beaches – Shoal Bay Beach and Little Beach – this is the perfect jumping-off point to explore.

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First timers should veer south to Stockton Bight Sand Dunes – the largest mobile sand system in the Southern Hemisphere and the biggest sand dunes in Australia. A giant sandpit, here kids young and old alike get their adrenaline pumping either dune-bashing in a 4WD, quad biking or riding sand boards down towering dunes more than 40 metres high.

From the sand to the surf, Port Stephens is a bona fide aquatic playground. Yes, there’s diving, swimming, kayaking and paddle boarding, but more unique to the area is its abundance of marine life.

From late May to November, the region is one of the best places to spot whales during the annual migration when more than 11,000 humpbacks swim by. And with more than 140 bottlenose dolphins calling Port Stephens home, it’s little wonder that it has earned a reputation as the dolphin capital of Australia.

While there’s an armada of tourist sightseeing vessels all trading on the local mammal population, for something truly unique try swimming with dolphins in the wild. Dolphin

Views from the Tomaree Head summit. INSET: Up close and personal with Dolphin Swim Australia.

Swim Australia has the first - and only - permit of its kind issued in NSW, which allows visitors to swim with dolphins side-by-side in their natural habitat.

LAND LUBBERS If you’re more at home on land, you can still get up close and personal with some giants of the ocean at Irukandji Shark & Ray Encounters. Year-round, guests can don a wetsuit and enter the water to feed and handle giant stingrays and huge tawny nurse sharks.

Afterwards, for one of the best views in town, make the steep climb from Shoal Bay to the Tomaree Headland in Tomaree National Park. Part of an extinct volcano, the summit offers panoramic vistas of the Port Stephens coastline and is a rewarding hike.

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It’s little wonder that it has earned a reputation as the dolphin capital of Australia

After your exertions, reward yourself with a locally produced craft beer at Murray’s Brewery before making your way to the area’s most renowned – and most perfectly situated – restaurant, Little Beach Boathouse. This restored boathouse offers picturepostcard water views and a delicious modern Australian menu featuring plenty of the renowned local seafood.

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Explore I NSW NORTH COAST

Frank Fawkner of EXP. restaurant.

BELOW: Walking in the vines at Margan. BELOW LEFT: Valley views on a ride with Balloon Aloft.

#3 HUNTER VALLEY

A treasure trove WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

Nestled at the base of the undulating Brokenback Ranges, the Hunter Valley is one of Australia’s most iconic wine regions. With the area’s sprawl of vines and farms, wining and dining is the order of the day.

ON THE GRAPEVINE For an overview of the Hunter, a sunrise hot air balloon ride (try balloonaloft.com) will give you a superb vantage point over a valley rich in blockbuster vineyards and heritage wineries. In the country’s oldest wine region, Tyrrell’s Wines is one of the oldest vineyards.

At the cellar door on a balding hill in Pokolbin, you can walk between century-old oak vats.

On the wide balcony of Keith Tulloch’s chic cellar door, sip on shiraz and semillion crafted by a fourth-generation Hunter Valley winemaker. At Audrey Wilkinson, you’ll discover the valley’s finest views at a cellar door overlooking vines tended by the Wilkinsons since 1866.

Alongside the big names, the Hunter has its share of dynamic smaller makers. After a winemaking career that made him a Hunter Valley legend, Andrew Thomas established Thomas Wines cellar door last year to showcase his award-sweeping wines. Usher Tinkler has branched out from his family’s historic winery with Usher Tinkler Wines, producing single-vineyard vintages that suggest winemaking runs in the blood. Just next door in a restored schoolhouse, Gundog Estate sells its highly regarded wines. For an education in boutique local vineyards, drop past the Small Winemakers Centre in Pokolbin.

FIT FOR A FEAST Where there’s good wine,

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there’s food to match. From chocolate and cheese to smoked meats and olives, the Hunter Valley produces the perfect picnic basket.

Explore the cellar doors on two wheels, stocked up with a moveable smorgasbord of soft-rind cheese from Binnorie Dairy, terrine from Lovedale Smokehouse and ginger-spiked dark chocolate from Cocoa Nib. If you’d rather a white tablecloth with your lunch, the Hunter Valley has you covered.

See where the local fine-dining scene started at Bistro Molines, the French provincial restaurant from Sally and Robert Molines.

Their former protegee Lisa Margan and her husband Andrew, who was trained by the late Murray Tyrrell, have forged their own path at Margan. Their refined seasonal menu is sourced nearly entirely

from their working farm and kitchen garden, and Andrew Margan has proven himself a pioneering local winemaker.

The intimate EXP. restaurant at Oakvale Wines is headed up by young local chef Frank Fawkner, who trained at Muse Restaurant (a Hunter Valley favourite with two Chef’s Hats). Frank’s exciting cooking suggests the Hunter Valley’s future is in very safe hands.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Newcastle from Melbourne, Gold Coast and Brisbane.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY MARGAN, BALLOONS ALOFT, EXP

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

Come Fly with Us er in the Hunt ..

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

Hamilton Heritage Walk Discover how a 19th century settlement of immigrant coal miners transformed into the vibrant multicultural suburb of Hamilton

While in Hamilton, take your pick of cuisine, stop for a coffee or do a spot of shopping at the precincts vibrant dinning and boutique options

Celebrating the addition of a second storey to the Hamilton Fire Station, 1906 (Ralph Snowball, courtesy Cultural Collections, University of Newcastle)

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Download the walking tour map at visitnewcastle.com.au/hamilton-walking-tour

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

Cruise Whitsundays

Avis Car Rental wins again!

Outstanding Day Cruises to the Whitsundays’ most iconic attractions, including the colourful outer Great Barrier Reef, world famous Whitehaven Beach and other amazing Whitsunday Islands. There’s something for everyone with full and half day cruises including the thrill of sailing on Camira, one of the world’s fastest commercial sailing catamarans. Alternatively, spend a day exploring Hamilton Island or Daydream Island or both. You can even choose Reefsleep, where you spend a night under the stars on the Great Barrier Reef. An experience you’ll never forget!

Cruises depart daily and our friendly crew will make sure you see the best of the Whitsundays!

In Canstar Blue’s 2016 annual review of car hire companies Avis has come out on top again. Leading the way with its’ fourth win in five years; Avis achieved the highest Canstar Blue rating for its’ booking process, customer service, availability of accessories, transparency of costs and fees, value-for-money and overall customer satisfaction. Avis also picked up the Quality Service Awards from Readers Digest. So why not enjoy Avis today, the Car Rental company that knows Australia best.

Web I cruisewhitsundays.com

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EXPO COMPLIMENTS COASTAL LIFESTYLE The opening statement on the web site for Tourism Sunshine Coast is …‘Explore the Sunshine Coast and experience the wildlife, breathtaking beaches and hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

There is something for all the family to enjoy whether you prefer a guided tour or relaxing in the sun, the Sunshine Coast of Australia has it all’.

A much loved, long standing annual event on the coast compliments this theme nicely as it showcases the very latest caravans, camper trailers, motorhomes, boats, 4x4s and a whole lot more. All geared to helping people explore their own backyard first. And for those who live there or have a holiday home, the event also showcases the latest and greatest products and ideas for getting the most out of the amazing weather and canal, river and beach side living.

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WHERE: Kawana Sports & Special Events Precinct WHEN: 21st - 23rd October FOR MORE DETAILS GO TO: sunshinecoasthomeshow.com.au

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing Ă la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 33 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne, currently holding one hat from The Age Good Food Guide.

Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

Address Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne Tel +61 (0)3 9654 8933 Web: kenzan.com.au

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Directory I NEW ZEALAND

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Directory I NEW ZEALAND

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Directory I INDONESIA

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Located less than 5 minutes walking from Double Six beach, enjoy our Free Beach Club on Double Six beach and Sky Lounge on rooftop with Jacuzzi.

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Directory I INDONESIA

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The Women’s Festival

Over 30 speakers sharing life’s secrets to success

Business | Wellness | Love | Gourmet Food 22 October | Catani Gardens, Melbourne

WIN

Purchase your ticket at secretsinthegarden.com using the code MIESTAR to be in the draw to win a $500 Made in Earth Voucher

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MADEINEARTH www.madeinearth.com.au 12/09/2016 3:05 PM

Explore I INTERVIEW

Maui magic

There’s nothing quite like a Maui ocean sunset.

The stunning island, part of the Hawaiian archipelago, has more than 48km of beaches to choose from.

PHOTO ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

12/09/2016 3:05 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Thanks to Dreams2live4, Gareth Hickey was able to experience a romantic and special honeymoon with his childhood sweetheart.

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JETSTAR SENDS DREAMERS SKY HIGH SYDNEY-BASED Dreams2live4, a notfor-profit organisation that brings the dreams of patients living with metastatic cancer to life, is looking for a very special and unique person to fill some big shoes – those of a Dream Maker.

Dreams2live4 Dream Makers are dedicated to helping patients identify and fulfil their dreams.

The charity began the search for their next Dream Maker after being awarded a $30,000 Jetstar Flying Start grant, which includes $15,000 in cash and $15,000 worth of Jetstar travel.

Along with finding and

training their next Dream Maker, the $15,000 cash will go towards fulfilling the dreams of cancer sufferers, while the flights will be put towards flying patients across the Jetstar network to experience their dreams. The flights will also assist the charity to help more people around the country, flying Dreams2live4 members to hospitals to meet with new Dreamers.

Dreams2Live4 Chief Executive Officer Louise Mahoney runs the charity, which was initially set up by her sister Annie Robinson in 2008.

“This year alone, we will work with more than

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Are you eligible?

Your not-for-profit organisation may be eligible for a $30,000 grant!

Full details are available at Jetstar. com/flyingstart

300 patients facing this life-threatening disease.

Thanks to the Jetstar Flying Start grant, we will now be able to reach more patients and their families, giving them something to strive, hope and live for. Many of our dreams involve travel so we’re excited to now be able to offer more flights,” Louise says.

To donate or to find out more about Dreams2Live4 see dreams2live4.org.au

CONGRATULATIONS

Seizing the day thanks to Jetstar When Kim Moses entered a competition to win a $1,000 Jetstar travel voucher, little did she know how her life was about to change.

Kim not only won the $1,000 voucher, but also took home the major prize of a $20,000 Jetstar travel account.

Since that lifechanging Monday last May, Kim has had countless family adventures within Australia and overseas.

Having experienced Uluru’s Field of Light, a ride on the Cairns Kanundra Scenic Railway, a day at the Melbourne Cup, snorkelling in Rarotonga, and quality family time in Darwin, Kim, hubby Graham and their kids are ticking off their bucket-list destinations.

Seize the day and book your next adventure at Jetstar.com

12/09/2016 3:06 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

FLY EASY WITH THE JETSTAR APP WHETHER YOU TRAVEL frequently with Jetstar or only once a year, the Jetstar app is a must-have travel accessory for all your Jetstar travel needs.

The app allows users to search for our famous low fares across the entire network and receive live flight updates and gate information as it happens. Users can add existing Jetstar flight bookings into the app and manage their bookings by adding their favourite travel extras such as meals and entertainment.

The Jetstar app will also save you time by allowing you to check in* and get a mobile boarding pass before you get to the airport, even if you have bags to check in.

If you don’t have bags to check in, you can go straight to your allocated gate with your mobile boarding pass*, which shows live flight information.

So, if you have a Jetstar flight home or you’re planning your next travel adventure, download the Jetstar app today ** to conveniently book and manage your trip. *Mobile check-in and mobile boarding pass is currently available for domestic flights within Australia, New Zealand and Japan. **The Jetstar app is available to download from the App Store and Google Play.

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Furry festival love. INSET: Super Furry Festival founders Jess Zeltner and Courtney Meyer.

‘Fur love’

not money JESS ZELTNER and Courtney Meyer are not your stereotypical crazy cat ladies. As co-founders of Sydney’s Super Furry Festival in Surry Hils, they have turned raising funds for animal rescue shelters and advocating animal adoption into a joyful, if not slightly madcap, event.

Spurred on by campaigns alerting the public to animal cruelty, and with a passion to reduce the tens of thousands of discarded pets euthanised each year, their ‘festival of fur’ is a market-style day that connects thousands of Sydneysiders with animals from 12 rescue shelters.

Some of the activities include ‘Doga’ (dog yoga), Dogs on the Catwalk, a kitty or bunny cuddle tent and a treasure hunt for

pooch-lovers and their furry friends.

“We wanted to make it a little bit more engaging, entertaining, interactive and more creative. We’re trying to create a joyous, positive space,” Jess says.

If you have a love of lounging Labradors, join Kooks in supporting the festival in Sydney on 22 October.

For more information visit superfurryfestival. com.au

147

To find out more about this and other projects you can support by drinking Kooks wine on your Jetstar flight, visit kooks.com.au

12/09/2016 3:06 PM

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Essentials Explore I CHANGING I INTERVIEW LIVES

VIETNAM I STARKIDS

EMPOWERED AGAINST TRAFFICKING StarKids has helped build lasting change to fight human trafficking WORDS VIRGINIA MORRISON

Home safe: Reunited with family, Thinh has better options for his future.

PHOTO LE THIEM XUAN / WORLD VISION

T

hinh’s community, in Vietnam’s Quang Nam province, is just one of many to have benefited from World Vision’s StarKidssupported anti-trafficking initiative.

Like many teens, Thinh loved computer gaming.

But his favourite pastime took a tragic turn.

“I used to spend some breakfast money … to frequent the computer game shops,” he recalls.

One weekend a young man befriended Thinh there and offered him work delivering fish, promising he’d earn enough “to play games all day”.

The lure of quick money – and the thought of seeing the ocean for the first time – was irresistible.

Later that afternoon, Thinh was at the beach.

Alone. Broke. His new “friend” was gone.

Another man approached, offering a night’s work fishing. Thinh agreed, thinking he’d take the bus home the next morning.

But it was a trap and Thinh toiled away on that boat for four long months.

“The traffickers sold me to a fishing group,” he says bitterly.

Thinh managed to escape and later resumed his schooling. He also joined a youth club through World Vision’s End Trafficking in Persons

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

You can help!

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need.

Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across south-east Asia, Australia and New Zealand. These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia.

By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future.

A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia.

Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information.

Your small change today could change a life tomorrow!

JETSTAR.COM

Year to date

$151,151* Total

$7,602,465 The program operated in six countries across the Greater Mekong for the past five years. As well as raising awareness among vulnerable children, it empowered communities to build safer migration behaviours, strengthen protective services and policies, and assist survivors with reintegration. With support from Jetstar customers through StarKids over the past three years, communities like Thinh’s are better equipped to keep fighting trafficking for years to come.

149

This project was also supported by the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade.

program, using his experience to help his peers see through traffickers’ deceitful tactics. *Funds raised in financial year to date since July 2016. Total raised since 2007.

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12/09/2016 3:07 PM

Essentials I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

BAGGAGE & CARGO

The sky is full of planes busy whisking us to amazing places, with holds full of our precious luggage, and sustaining a billion dollar cargo industry

DON’T FORGET TO TAG YOUR BAG

Flying freight

150

Planes were transporting cargo long before they took on passengers. The first commercial freight flight took place in 1910, when Phil O. Parmalee transported two bolts of silk across Ohio. Since then, airfreight has become a booming business; last year revenue peaked at $67 billion with close to $6 trillion worth of goods transported around the globe, accounting for 35 per cent of all international trade.

MEL SYD JS 912

It wasn’t until the 1920s that the volume of passengers made destination tags on passenger’s suitcases essential. Airline tags had to be able to cope with extreme changes in heat and moisture, be resistant to nicks and tears, and be easy to remove when the passenger arrived at their destination. Today’s bag tags were in common use by mid-1990, with the simple yet innovative sticky lopped design helping reduce the number of bags lost in transit.

DID you KNOW?

WATCH

YOUR

WEIGHT Baggage allowances first started in 1938 when limitations were placed on bags travelling domestically and internationally.

Luggage weight was capped at around 20kg per passenger.

As planes design improved and aircraft grew in size, so too did baggage allowances.

On a domestic Jetstar flight, you can carry up to 40kg of checked luggage and 7kg carry-on luggage.

Over 2 million pets are transported by air in the US every year? And Qantas estimates 160 pets are transported per day in Australia.

REINVENTING

THE WHEEL

In 1987 the first carry-on wheeled suitcase appeared on the market. Such was its immediate popularity that airports changed their security procedures and planes were modified to include overhead bins to accommodate the increase in wheelie bag use.

* Statistics taken from iata.org, transportation.gov

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JETS0

Make today the day.

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai) Guiyang

Flights are operated

by Jetstar Pacific and commence 30 October, subject to regulatory approval

Wuhan

Taipei Shantou Guangzhou Hong Kong Hanoi Haikou Yangon Sanya Da Nang Siem Reap Manila Bangkok Phnom Penh

152

Flights are operated

by Jetstar Asia and commence 4 October, subject to regulatory approval

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Penang Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns Townsville

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi

Sapporo

Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Oita Kumamoto

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Phu Quoc

Kagoshima

Nha Trang Da Lat

Ho Chi Minh City Okinawa Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

153

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon)

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Wellington Christchurch

Launceston Operated by Jetstar Airways

152-153_ESSENTIALS_MAPS_OCTOBER.indd 153

Hobart

Auckland

Queenstown

12/09/2016 3:08 PM

Explore Australian I INTERVIEW & New Zealand airports

ARRIVING AT OUR DESTINATIONS How to get from the airport to town Adelaide

154

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour.

Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins.

Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Auckland

Cairns

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12. Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre.

Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle.

Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

Ballina/Byron Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

From $3.80 adult.

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20.

Enquire at airport information desk.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $59 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $49 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor.

154-155_ESSENTIALS_AIRPORT INFO.indd 154

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential).

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle.

Adult $21, child $13; return: adult $41, child $21.

Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25

Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: Adult $32, child $26, return: $64.

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins.

Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers.

To Hastings, NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45.

Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson

TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Melbourne (Avalon)

Newcastle

TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50

27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one

12/09/2016 3:09 PM

person; $10 for additional passengers. Enquire at airport information desk.

Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred). From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles. Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect.

Tickets $15; return: $30.

Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2.

Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 SuperShuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers.

Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32

154-155_ESSENTIALS_AIRPORT INFO.indd 155

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80.

TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22.

TransLink Bus 622.

Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link Train. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays).

Domestic terminal: Adult starting from $17, child $13.60.

International terminal: Adult $17.80, child $14.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle. Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 SuperShuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins.

Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit.

Adult $18, child $13.

Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18. Bookings not required.

155

HANDMADE IN NEW ZEALAND World renowned blown glass and glass jewellery by glass artists Ola Höglund & Marie Simberg-Höglund creators of New Zealand art glass since 1982 VISITORS WELCOME OPEN DAILY

Höglund Glassblowing Studio & Gallery 52 Lansdowne Road, Richmond, NELSON Ph +64 3 544 6500

Höglund Art Glass Gallery 1767 Luggate-Cromwell Rd, CENTRAL OTAGO (between Cromwell & Wanaka) Ph +64 3 442 7210 artglass@hoglund.co.nz

www.hoglundartglass.com

12/09/2016 3:09 PM

Chef Prepared Moredough Kitchens Restaurant Quality Ready Made Meals Range Meals Introducing the

Made Locally & Gluten Free

AUS T

LIAN MADE RA

D

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from our kitchen to your table... hearty, nutritious and totally delicious Butter Chicken, Thai Red Chicken, Beef Massaman and Beef Burgundy Available now at your local independent supermarket or gourmet store or call our National Distributor Raw Materials on 1300 305 129

www.moredoughkitchens.com.au

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Kids puzzles

e

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

157

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Kids puzzles

158

COK16 156-163_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 158

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RAROTONGA IN THE COOK ISLANDS IS A PARADISE WAITING FOR YOU TO DISCOVER. SOON AFTER LANDING, YOU CAN BE SWIMMING IN THE CRYSTAL CLEAR LAGOON, SIPPING ON YOUR FIRST COCKTAIL OR TAKING OFF ON A SCOOTER ADVENTURE.

GET THE FEELING WITHJETSTAR THREE FLIGHTS A WEEK FROM AUCKLAND.

GET CLOSER TO THE FEELING

FEELRARO.CO.NZ COK160262 June_JETSTAR Inflight Magazine_v5.indd 1 156-163_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 159

8/06/16 12:34 pm 12/09/2016 3:10 PM

156-163_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 160

12/09/2016 3:10 PM

Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 What “split personalityâ€? characters created by Robert Louis Stevenson were first published in 1886? (6,3,4) 7 What’s a first-place athlete often called? (4,9) 9 In AA Milne’s Winnie-the-Pooh (1926), what does Piglet call a “haycornâ€?? (5) 10 In Ringo Starr’s song, what eight-armed creature has a garden under the sea? (7) 12 “Give me a home among the ‌ trees.â€? (3) 13 What animal is Templeton in Charlotte’s Web (1952)? (3) 14 What’s a “universal resource locatorâ€? better known as? (3) 15 Where do lantern fish and frilled sharks live? (4,3) 16 What’s the acronym for Canberra’s national art museum and gallery? (3) 17 What are self-published fanzines sometimes called? (5) 20 What biscuit is made from ground almonds and/or desiccated coconut? (8) 21 What area was once known as the East Indies? (5,4,4)

1 What type of picture puzzles are usually made from wood or cardboard? (6,7) 2 The Super Pit open-cut mine is located where in Western Australia? (10) 3 What cakes are dipped in chocolate and rolled in coconut?

(10) 4 What spiral galaxy is near the Milky Way and 2.2 million light years from earth? (9) 5 PeeWee Wilson has been a member of what Australian rock group since 1958? (9) 6 In a film script, what word indicates that a scene is filmed outside? (3) 8 What’s the name of the number of books or artworks printed at one time? (11) 11 What famous Saturday market in Hobart was first held in the 1970s? (9) 18 What does Big Bird sleep in? (4) 19 What are plays divided into? (4) 20 Who is the bartender in The Simpsons (1989–)? (3)

161

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

156-163_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 161

$

:

+

EASY

12/09/2016 3:10 PM

Quiz

En

QUICK QUIZ Heading to Western Australia? Take our quick quiz and test your knowledge of the state

162

7. Which Dutch explorer was the first visitor to the Western Australian coastline in 1616?

8. Which 2002 Australian film told the story of Molly, Daisy and Gracie, who walked 2400km to return to their community at Jigalong in 1931?

9. Known for its wine and food, which WA region is also one of the state’s top surfing destinations?

10. On which Australian dollar note does Western Australian Edith Cowan, the first woman elected to an Australian Parliament, feature?

11. What’s the slang term for a Western Australian?

12. What is the name of the Australian navy ship sunk in 1941 off the WA coast after a battle with the German HSK Kormoran?

13. Which Perth park, at 400 hectares, is the biggest city park in the world?

1. Which comedian, actor, writer and musician raised in Perth recently adapted a Roald Dahl book for the stage?

2. Which Western Australian writer has been named a Living Treasure by the National Trust?

3. From which Western Australian city did Australian troops set sail for WWI in 1914?

4. Which animal, mistaken for a rat by Dutch explorers, can be found on Rottnest Island?

5. Derbarl Yerrigan is the Noongar name for which Western Australian river?

6. The annual Busselton Jetty Swim is how many kilometres long?

A) 4.2km B) 3.6km C) 3.2km D) 5.4km

4

5

10

088

SOLUTIONS

, * 6 $ : 3 8 = = / ( 6

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_ Tim Minchin 2_ Tim Winton 3_ Albany 4_ Quokka 5_ The Swan River 6_ b) 3.6km 7_ Dirk Hartog 8_ Rabbit Proof Fence 9_Margaret River 10_ $50 11_ Sandgroper 12 _ HMAS Sydney II 13_ Kings Park 156-163_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 162

12/09/2016 3:10 PM

Jetstar

Entertainment Movies

PEPE LOPEZ 700ML & MARGARITA BIG BUCKET 2.84LTR COMBO

JUMPING GOAT VODKA LIQUEUR

Available all Big flights 90Mixer minutes The Master on of Mixes Bucketover Margarita

Jumping Goat mixes the finest fair trade and organic coffee beans with spices, pure New Zealand spring water and the highest quality alcohol available. This vodka based liquor tastes of a very real and freshly ground chocolatey coffee upfront. Unlike traditional coffee ‘flavoured’ liqueurs, the chocolatey coffee infusion lingers a long time, whilst the higher ABV warms the insides like a good spirit should.

comes with a Dispensa-Rita spout right on the bucket for easy pouring. Just add tequila to the margarita mix in a bucket to make 2.84ltr of cocktails, for home use or a party. It can then be frozen right in the bucket to make a Master of Mixes Margarita, or it can be served over ice. This Master of Mixes Big Bucket Margarita Mixer contains 6 percent juice for a fruity taste.

49.99

$

49.99

$

700ml

PENFOLDS WINES

JACOB’S CREEK DOUBLE BARREL

Penfolds is one of Australia’s oldest and most iconic wineries, founded in 1844. Koonunga Hill is the gateway to the Penfolds collection of wines; it is where the art of winemaking and the Penfolds journey truly begins.

Jacob’s Creek winemakers first crafted beautifully rich red wines from superior quality grapes and matured them in traditional wine barrels. Then, using our unique Double Barrel technique, they finished them in aged whisk(e)y barrels to build additional layers of complexity and an incredibly smooth finish.

088 Koonunga Hill

Bins 128 & 138

14.99 $ 32.99 $

750ml

19.99

$

750ml

750ml

LONG WHITE This is a triple-distilled vodka made from only New Zealand-sourced ingredients - naturally– flavoured sparkling water and sunshine! Long White has no added sugar, preservatives, artificial colours or flavours.

22.99

$

10pk btls 320ml

29 STORES NATIONWIDE Wellington region: Newtown, Lower Hutt, Waitangirua, Titahi Bay, Taita Manawatu: Cloverlea, Highbury, Roselyn, Princess St, Fielding, Wanganui, Albert St Taranaki: New Plymouth, Inglewood, Stratford

Hawke’s Bay: Napier, Taradale, Clive, Hastings, Havelock North, Dannevirke, Waipukurau Waikato: Te Awamutu Wairarapa: Masterton Nelson: Nelson, Richmond

18

Our policy is to ask for ID if under 30 - please don’t be offended.

To order online or for store details please visit www.bigbarrel.co.nz or ring 0880 BARREL (227735) We reserve the right to limit quantities, trade supplied, but on discretion. Terms and conditions apply.

Specials valid from 1st – 31st October 2016

156-163_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 163 Jetstar Big Barrel_OCT.indd 97

13/09/2016 11:44 11:42 AM

Fly easy with the Jetstar app Search our famous low fares

Add a trip and extras

Browse fares and current deals across the Jetstar network.

Add any upcoming Jetstar flights and your favourite travel extras.

Live flight updates ^

Check in* and skip the queues

Get updates on your departure time and gate number as they happen.

No bags? Go straight to the gate~ with your mobile boarding pass* or scan it at a kiosk to print bag tags.

^Flight status change notifications are available for selected departure ports.*Mobile boarding pass and mobile check-in is only available for domestic flights within Australia, New Zealand and Japan. ~Conditions apply. Apple, Apple Passbook and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Android, Google Play and the Google Play logo are trademarks of Google Inc. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ABN: 33 069 720 243.

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Movies, TV, music and more I OCTOBER 2016 I Entertainment

Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE! Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available

p

165

r

s

ONLY

r

$10

AUD Blockbuster movies TV comedy and drama Kids’ favourites Hit music Games

PRE-PURCHASE AND SAVE Purchase inflight entertainment when you book your flight and save 10 per cent!

3:08 pm

164-165_ESSENTIALS_IFE Opener.indd 165

12/09/2016 3:10 PM

フリー・ステイト・オブ・ジ

ョーンズ

| 139 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Gary Ross CAST: Matthew McConaughey, Gugu Mbatha-Raw

A Confederate army deserter returns to Mississippi and leads a militia.

リー

| 97 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENGCC DIRECTOR: Andrew Stanton, Angus MacLane CAST: Ellen DeGeneres, Albert Brooks

The friendly-butforgetful Dory begins a search for her longlost parents. 人懐っこいナンヨウハ ギのドリーは、長らく音 信不通の両親を探す旅 に出る。

Mike and Dave Need Wedding Dates

マイク＆デイヴ・ニード・ ウェディング・デイツ

| 98 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Jake Szymanski CAST: Zac Efron, Adam Driver

The Dresser

ドレッサー

| 105 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Richard Eyre CAST: Anthony Hopkins, Ian McKellen

A drama, based on a successful play, about an ageing actor and his personal assistant. 大成功を収めた舞 台劇を元に、年老いた 俳優と彼に仕える付 き人を描いたドラマ 映画。

© 2016 Home Box Office, Inc.

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

166

連合国軍の脱走兵がミシ シッピに戻り、反乱軍を指 揮する。

Finding Dory

ファインディング・ド

The Conjuring 2 死霊館 エンフィール

ド事件

| 134 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: James Wan CAST: Vera Farmiga, Patrick Wilson

Two brothers place an ad to find dates for their sister’s wedding.

The Warrens help a single mother raising her children in a house plagued by a malicious spirit.

2人の兄弟は、妹の結婚 式に同伴してくれる女性 を探すためにネット広告 を出す。

悪霊に悩まされるシング ルマザーを救うため、 ウ ォーレン夫妻はロンドン へ向かう。

166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 166

All the Way オール・ザ・ウェイ

| 132 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jay Roach CAST: Bryan Cranston, Anthony Mackie

Lyndon Johnson becomes the President of the United States in the chaotic aftermath of JFK’s assassination.

JFKの暗殺直後に大 統領になったリンド ン・ジョンソンを描く。

Now You See Me 2

グランド・イリュージョン 見破られたトリック

| 129 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENGCC DIRECTOR: Jon M. Chu CAST: Jesse Eisenberg, Mark Ruffalo

The Horsemen are recruited to pull off their most impossible heist yet. 「フォー・ホースメン」 は、絶対不可能な強盗 を成功させるために雇 われる。

Star Trek Beyond

スター・トレック

| 122 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Justin Lin CAST: Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto

The USS Enterprise crew explores the furthest reaches of uncharted space, where they encounter a ruthless enemy who puts them to the test. クルーたちは敵に遭遇 し、連邦とクルーの真価 が問われる。

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

Free State of Jones

© 2016 Paramount Pictures

© 2016 Disney Enterprises, Inc.

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Independence Day: Resurgence

インデペンデンス・デイ:

リサージェンス

| 120 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Roland Emmerich CAST: Liam Hemsworth, Jeff Goldblum

Criminal クリミナル

| 113 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Ariel Vromen CAST: Kevin Costner, Ryan Reynolds

Two decades after the first invasion, Earth is faced with a new threat.

A dead CIA operative’s memories, secrets, and skills are implanted into a death-row inmate.

宇宙人による最初の侵略 から20年後、地球は再び 宇宙からの新たな脅威に さらされる。

亡くなったCIAエージ ェントの記憶やスキ ルが死刑囚に移植さ れ…。

12/09/2016 3:14 PM

© 2016 Disney Enterprises, Inc.

Available on 787 seatback screens I MOVIES I Entertainment

奇蹟がくれた数式

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENGCC DIRECTOR: Matt Brown CAST: Dev Patel, Jeremy Irons

The story of pioneer Indian mathematician, Srinivasa Ramanujan, and his friendship with his mentor, Professor G.H. Hardy.

Remember

世界一キライなあなたに

リメンバー

| 110 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Thea Sharrock CAST: Emilia Clarke, Sam Claflin

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Atom Egoyan CAST: Christopher Plummer, Martin Landau

A girl forms an unlikely bond with a recently paralysed man she’s taking care of.

An elderly man with dementia goes in search of the person responsible for the death of his family.

小さな田舎町に住む女 性が、体に麻痺を負った 男性を介護する中で、2 人の間に予想外の絆が 芽生えていく。

男性は自分の家族を死 に至らしめた人物の捜査 を開始する。

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation MARVEL TM & © 2014 MARVEL & Subs

インド出身の先駆的数学 者シュリニヴァーサ・ラマ ヌジャの物語。

Me Before You

X-Men: Apocalypse

Alice Through the Looking Glass

アリス・イン・ワンダーラ

ンド／時間の旅

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENGCC DIRECTOR: James Bobin CAST: Mia Wasikowska, Johnny Depp

Alice returns to Wonderland and travels back in time to help the Mad Hatter. ワンダ−ランドに戻った アリスは、 マッドハッター を助けるために過去へ戻 る旅に出る。

© 2011 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

The Man Who Knew Infinity

Sicario

Entourage

ボーダーライン

アントラージュ

ブルー 初めての空へ

| 143 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Bryan Singer CAST: James McAvoy, Michael Fassbender

| 121 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Denis Villeneuve CAST: Emily Blunt, Josh Brolin, Benicio Del Toro

| 104 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENGCC DIRECTOR: Doug Ellin CAST: Adrian Grenier, Kevin Connolly, Jerry Ferrara

| 96 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENGS DIRECTOR: Carlos Saldanha CAST: Jesse Eisenberg, Anne Hathaway, George Lopez

With the emergence of the world’s first mutant, Apocalypse, the X-Men must unite to defeat his extinction level plan.

Idealistic FBI agent Kate Macer joins a task force for the escalating war against drugs.

Vincent Chase and his buddies are back in business with superagent-turned-studio head Ari Gold.

Blu leaves the comforts of his cage in small-town Minnesota and heads to Rio.

ポカリプスが出現し、XMENたちは彼の計画を 阻止するために団結しな ければならない。

出世街道をひた走るFBI エージェントのケイト・ メイサーは極秘任務を 受ける。

ヴィンセント・チェイスと 仲間たちは、映画会社社 長のアリ・ゴールドとビジ ネスを再開する。

自分が種の最後の鳥だ と思っているインコを描 くコメディーアドベンチ ャー映画。

X-MEN：アポカリプス

166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 167

Rio

The Nice Guys ザ・ナイス・ガイズ

| 116 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENGCC DIRECTOR: Shane Black CAST: Russell Crowe, Ryan Gosling

A mismatched pair investigate the apparent suicide of a porn star in 1970s Los Angeles.

1970年代のロサンゼル スを舞台に、 でこぼこ私 立探偵コンビがポルノス ターの自殺事件の調査に 乗り出す。

167

General

全年齢層鑑賞可能

Parental guidnace recommended 保護者同伴推奨

Recommended for mature audiences 成人推奨

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

15歳未満非推奨。15歳未満は 保護者または成人の同伴が必要

Restricted to 18 and over 18歳以上観覧可

Check the classification

Check the classification 分類を確認のこと

12/09/2016 3:14 PM

Finding Nemo

Black Swan

© 1996, 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

The Conjuring

ファインディング・ニモ

ブラック・スワン

| 100 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Andrew Stanton CAST: Ellen DeGeneres, Albert Brooks

| 107 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Darren Aronofsky CAST: Natalie Portman, Mila Kunis, Vincent Cassel

| 112 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: James Wan CAST: Patrick Wilson, Vera Farmiga, Ron Livingston

A dancer wins the lead role in Swan Lake only to find herself struggling to maintain her sanity.

Ed and Lorraine Warren work to help a family terrorised by a dark presence in their farmhouse.

チャイコフスキーの 「白 鳥の湖」 の舞台で主役 を勝ち取ったダンサー は…。

エド＆ロレイン・ウォー レン夫妻は、邪悪な存 在に脅かされる家族を 救おうとする。

After his son is captured and taken to Sydney, a timid clownfish sets out on a journey to bring him home. 捕らえられてしまった 息子を家に連れ戻すた め、臆病なクマノミは旅 に出る。

死霊館

Independence Day

インターステラー

| 145 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Roland Emmerich CAST: Will Smith, Bill Pullman, Jeff Goldblum

| 169 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Christopher Nolan CAST: Matthew McConaughey, Anne Hathaway, Jessica Chastain

インデペンデンス・デイ

The aliens are coming. Fighting superior technology, mankind’s best weapon is the will to survive. 襲来したエイリアンの目 的は、地球を侵略し破 壊することだった。

Interstellar

A team of explorers travel through a wormhole in space in an attempt to ensure humanity’s survival. 人類の生存を懸けて、探 査チームはワームホール を通り抜けて宇宙へと 旅立つ。

© 2014 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation MARVEL TM & © 2014 MARVEL & Subs

168

© 2010 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation

© 2012 Disney/Pixar

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?

X-Men : Days of Future Past

バージニア・ウルフなん

ヒーローマニア-生活-

| 132 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Mike Nichols CAST: Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, George Segal

| 132 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Bryan Singer CAST: Hugh Jackman, Michael Fassbender, James McAvoy

かこわくない

A bitter couple use a young couple to fuel anguish and pain towards each other. 仲が冷え切った中年カッ プルは、 若い夫婦を巻き込 みつつ互いへの苦悩や心 の痛みを募らせ…。

The X-Men send Wolverine to the past to change history. 歴史を変え、未来の出 来事を回避するため、 X-MENたちはウルヴ ァリンを過去へ送り 出す。

166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 168

A

The Wolf of Wall Street ウルフ・オブ・ウォールス

トリート

| 179 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Martin Scorsese CAST: Leonardo DiCaprio, Jonah Hill

The story of Jordan Belfort, the New York stockbroker who defrauded investors out of millions. ジョー

ダン・ベルフォートの栄光 と没落のストーリーを元 にした実話作品。

Maniac Hero

MBA Partners

| 109 mins LANGUAGE: JPN & ENSUBS DIRECTOR: Keisuke Toyoshima CAST: Masahiro Higashide, Masataka Kubota, Nana Komatsu

| 101 mins LANGUAGE: CHS & ENSUBS DIRECTOR: Chang Tae You CAST: Yao Chan, Tiffany Tang

僕だけがいない街

An unlikely group decide to form a vigilante group to punish the petty criminals that society overlooks.

4人組の仲間が自警 団を結成する。

MBAパートナーズ

Three women launch Meimeiwang, an online fashion retailer. The business flourishes but there are storm clouds on the horizon. 偽ブランドのバッグを販 売していた学生は警察に 捕まり、強制送還される。

12/09/2016 3:14 PM

Work

Nature’s creation.. .from our hands to your heart.

Atlas Pearls produces some the world’s best South Sea pearls. We are proud to deliver our pearls direct from our farms to you.

Working on the North Bali farm.

Producing some of the best South Sea pearls

Employing 900+ people internationally.

Taking up to 4 years to grow they require constant care.

Atlas North Bali farm.

SHOP ONLINE www.ShopAtlas.com.au • SEMINYAK Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 73, Seminyak, Bali. TEL +62 361 732769 PERTH Shop 1, 47-49 Bay View Terrace Claremont 6010, Perth Western Australia. TEL +61 8 9284 4249 NORTH BALI FARM & SHOWROOM Tours@AtlasPearlsAndPerfumes.com.au or call +62 361 284 455 / +62 081 238 77012

166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 169

12/09/2016 3:14 PM

Entertainment I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

LIFESTYLE & REALITY

Whiskey Business

170

DRAMA SERIES

Chasing The Light

Brand: A Second Coming

The Flash

ウィスキー・ビジネス

チェイシング・ザ・ライト

ブランド：ア・セカンド・カミング

THE FLASH／フラッシュ

Season 1, 30 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Season 1, 50 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Season 1, 45 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Season 2, 45 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Jack and Stephen Teeling follow their dream of distilling Irish whiskey.

Ken Duncan sets out on assignment with formidable resolve to get the shot.

After nine months in a coma, Barry Allen wakes to find his life has changed.

アイリッシュウィスキーの蒸留と いう夢を追うジャックとスティー ヴン・ティーリングを描く。

A provocative commentary on popular British comedian Russell Brand’s life.

ケン・ダンカンは計画を完遂させ る強い意志を胸に、 冒険の旅へ と出発する。

イギリス出身の人気コメディアン

Misery Loves Comedy

Life After: Chernobyl

ミザリー・ラヴズ・コメディー

ライフ・アフター：チェルノブイリ

Season 1, 94 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Season 1, 60 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

More than 50 modern comedy legends candidly explore their motivations and inspirations in this hilariously unique examination of the age-old question: do you really have to be miserable to be funny?

Two scientists are the first to be permitted access to Chernobyl.

大物コメディアンたちが、 自らの 動機やインスピレーションを率 直に語る。

Illusions Of Grandeur

イリュージョン・オブ・グラン

ジャー

Season 1, 30 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

In Illusions of Grandeur, upand-coming street magician, Zack Mirza, takes his magic skills to the next level. In this new docu-series, Zack is on a quest to become one of the world’s greatest illusionists in the same league as Blaine, Copperfield and Houdini. ザック・ミルザーはマジシャンと しての技をさらにレベルアップ させる。

166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 170

2人の科学者は初めてチェルノブ イリへの無制限のアクセスを許 可される。

Simply Nigella ナイジェラのクッキングLIFE

Season 5, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Simply Nigella show us that the way we cook really can make us feel better. 材料や料理法が実際に私たちの 気分や元気さにプラスの影響を 及ぼすことを教えてくれる料理 シリーズ。

の半生を刺激的に描いた作品。

Pretty Little Liars プリティ・リトル・ライアーズ

Season 6, 45 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Four high school girls receive frightening messages about their deepest secrets. 重大な秘密を暴露する恐怖のメ ールを受け取った4人の女子高校 生は、再び結集する。 メールには、 長らく失踪中の友人が戻ってお り、4人を監視していると書かれて いた。 サラ・シェパードによる小説 のドラマ化作品。

Bye Bye Guinea Pig バイバイ・ギニアピッグ

Season 1, 105 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

9ヶ月の昏睡から目覚めたアレン は、 自分の人生がまったく変わっ てしまったことを知る。

Bones

BONES （ボーンズ） -骨は語る-

Season 10, 45 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

A forensic anthropologist works with an FBI Agent on murder investigations. 法医学者は、殺人事件の捜査で FBI捜査官とチームを組む。

Animal Kingdom

アニマル・キングダム

Season 1, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

An orphaned teen moves in with his criminal relatives. 両親を亡くしたティーンエイジャ ーは、親類の犯罪者一家の元に 引っ越す。

ライト・オン・アース

Meet the crews who ensure cargo and passengers arrive at their destinations.

Animal activists have long battled to stop testing on animals. But now, some scientists are adding their voice to the debate, saying that the results of many animal experiments are inaccurate, biased or plain useless. So why are pharmaceutical companies lobbying to stop alternative tests being used?

貨物や乗客が確実に目的地に到 着するように、 日々努力を惜しまな い鉄道スタッフたちを紹介する。

動物愛護活動家は、動物実験の 結果の多くは正確さに欠けてい ると主張している。

デイヴィッド・アッテンボローと 科学者チームが、発光生物の秘 密を解き明かす。

Railroad Australia レイルロード・オーストラリア

Season 1, 50 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

David Attenborough’s Light On Earth

デイヴィッド・アッテンボローズ・

Season 1, 60 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

David Attenborough and a team of scientists reveal the secrets of living lights.

12/09/2016 3:14 PM

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166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 171

12/09/2016 3:14 PM

Entertainment I TV MOVIES SHOWS I Available I Available on 787 on 787 seatback seatback screens screens

KIDS

COMEDY SERIES

Arrested Development

ブル∼ス一家は大暴走！

Season 2, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Michael Bluth is forced to help his wildly eccentric family pick up the pieces after his wealthy father is arrested for shifty accounting practices. マイケル・ブルースは、裕福な父 親が不正会計で逮捕された後、 家族を助けなければならない。

172

Life In Pieces

ライフ・イン・ピーシズ

Season 1, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Significant milestone moments in the evolution of a large family are depicted in a series of vignettes. 大家族で起こる重要な出来事 を、様々なエピソードから描く。

Family Guy

ファミリー・ガイ

Season 13, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Peter Griffin is the father of this not-quite-so-average family unit. 普通とはちょっとかけ離れた一 家の父親ピーター・グリフィン の物語。

Mom

マム

Season 3, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

New Girl

NEW GIRL∼ダサかわ女子

と三銃士

Season 5, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

An offbeat girl moves in with three single guys, changing all their lives in unexpected ways. 独身男3人が暮らすアパート に引っ越してきたちょっと変 わった女の子を軸に描くコメ ディー。

Season 1, 11 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Season 3, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Follow the antics of a cat named Tom in his pursuit of a mouse named Jerry.

Once upon a time in the kingdom of Enchancia, Sofia became a princess.

With her mother, Miranda, now married to King Roland II, Sofia has to learn the royal ropes!

ねずみのジェリーを追いかけ る猫のトム。争ったり冒険をす る2匹の道化を描いたアニメ シリーズ。

Mickey Mouse Clubhouse ミッキーマウス・クラブハウス

あわせ日記

Season 1, 24 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

Season 6, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

It’s about two people, ordinary yet extraordinary, who have always protected themselves and relied on their ability to laugh through life. Now, with the help of each other – and the Overeaters Anonymous meeting where they met – they are learning to open up and trust one another. 心を開き、 お互いに信頼し合う ことを学んでいく2人を描く。

The Last Man On Earth

ザ・ラスト・マン・オン・アース

Season 1, 22 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

A single mom struggles to raise two children. シングルマザーは、2人の子育 てに悪戦苦闘する。

地球最後の男の人生と冒険を 描くコメディー。

Sofia The First

ちいさなプリンセス ソフィア

Mike & Molly

マイク＆モリー マシュマロ系し

A comedy about the life and adventures of the last man on earth.

166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 172

Tom And Jerry Show トムとジェリー ショー

When Donald feels as though everybody’s getting in his way, he decides that he wants his own space. So, Mickey and pals help Donald build a clubhouse just for himself.

昔々、 エンチャンシア王国で ソフィアはプリンセスになり ました。 ローランド王2世と 結婚した母親のミランダと 共にソフィアは王室の要領を 学びます。

Disney Tsum Tsum

ディズニー・ツムツム

Season 1, 23 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

A selection of Disney shorts. ディズニー短編集。

ミッキーのクラブハウスに行 くのをみんなに邪魔されてい ると感じたドナルドは、 自分 のクラブハウスが欲しくなる。 そんなドナルドのために、 ミッ キーと仲間たちはドナルド専 用のクラブハウスを作る手助 けをする。

ン （ウェブ・ウォーリアーズ）

K.C. Undercover

Season 1, 23 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

ティーン・スパイ K.C.

Season 5, 23 mins per episode LANGUAGE: English

High school student K.C. Cooper goes undercover as the government’s newest secret agent! 高校生のK.C. クーパーは、政 府の新しいスパイとして潜入 捜査を始める。

Marvel’s Ultimate Spider-Man Web Warriors

アルティメット・スパイダーマ

Spider-Man, The Avengers, and The Agents of Smash must battle their greatest foes for the fate of the planet. Part 4 of 4. スパイダーマン、 アベンジャ ーズ、S.M.A.S.H.のエージ ェントたちは、惑星の運命 を懸けて最大の敵との闘 いに打って出る。全4話中 最終話。

12/09/2016 3:14 PM

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KK International 255 x 178mm v2.indd 3 166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 173

6/09/2016 11:13 AM 12/09/2016 3:14 PM

Entertainment I AUDIO/GAMES I Available on 787 seatback screens

ALBUMS

POP & ROCK: Tom Odell Wrong Crowd

OneRepublic

SOUL/RNB: Michael Kiwanuka

Wherever I Go

マイケル・キワヌカ ラヴ＆ヘイト

ALTERNATIVE: Gang of Youths Let Me Be Clear ギャング・オブ・ユース レット・ミ

174

Lorde Tennis Court

ロードテニス・コート

トム・オデール ロング・クラウド

Love & Hate

ー・ビー・クリア

Emma Louise Supercry

エマ・ルイーズ スーパークライ

The 1975 I like it when you sleep, for you are so beautiful yet so unaware of it

ザ・ナインティーンセヴンティフ ァイヴ アイ・ライク・イット・ウェ ン・ユー・スリープ…

MUSIC VIDEOS

ワンリパブリック ウェアエヴァ ー・アイ・ゴー

ロナン・キーティング ブリーズ

Broods Free ブルーズ フリー

166-175_ESSENTIALS_IFE_OCT.indd 174

オーストラリアからスマルジーが 最新ヒット曲をお届けします。

Chill out to these favourites.

シア・カーラ ワイルド

The Grill Team

Vera Blue Fingertips

ル・チーム

トロイ・シヴァン Feat. アレッ

ヴェラ・ブルー フィンガーティ

ップス

Lady GaGa Just Dance

レディー・ガガ ジャスト・ダンス

Black Eyed Peas I Gotta Feeling

クリシー、サム＆ブラウニー ザ・グリ

Merrick & Australia メリ The Hot Breakfast ザ・ホ Rove & Sam ローヴ＆サム

タ・フィーリング

デイヴ＆サム

Owl City Fireflies

Kinderling Conversation

アウル・シティー ファイヤフラ

キンダーリング・カンバセー

イズ

ション

Lana Del Rey

We Fact Up ポッドキャス

Things ル・シングス

Michael Kiwanuka Love & Hate マイケル・キワヌカラヴ＆ヘイト

Cut Copy Lights & Music

カット・コピー ライツ＆ミュー ジック

GAMES

ット・ブレックファスト

Fifi, Dave & Fev フィフィ、

ブリンク182 オール・ザ・スモー

イージーリスニングプログラム。

ック＆オーストラリア

ブラック・アイド・ピーズ アイ・ガッ

Blink 182 All The Small

Ronan Keating Breathe

Fitzy & Wippa フィッツィ

Hear the freshest hits on NOVA, hosted by Smallzy.

Smooth FM

マルーン5 シュガー

ー・ベター

Kate, Tim & Marty クリシ

ー、サム＆ブラウニー

NOVA FM

Chrissy, Sam & Browny

Maroon 5 Sugar

ショーン・メンデス トリート・ユ

ュ＆アンディ

ー＆ウィッパ

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12/09/2016 3:14 PM

SYDNEY & GOLD COAST SEMINARS TO SHOW BUSINESS OWNERS HOW TO EASILY ATTRACT NEW CLIENTS – BOTH ONLINE & OFFLINE!

If You Own Or Manage A Business & Want to Know How to Attract An Avalanche of New Clients, Don’t Miss This Event!

Australia’s Leading Marketing Expert, John Dwyer, Reveals His PROVEN ClientAttraction Marketing System - So You Can Swipe & Use to Skyrocket Your Sales!

Dwyer’s recent HUGE “wow factor” was creating a Jerry Seinfeld marketing campaign!

EVEN JERRY SEINFELD TRUSTED HIS BRAND TO JOHN

TICKETS ARE NORMALLY $497

John Dwyer is an “in-demand” business marketing coach and speaker, who has an extraordinary record of massively increasing sales for businesses.

He is a much sought-after keynote speaker for industry and company conventions.

His business is aptly called The Institute Of Wow and he holds world records for the avalanche sales increases he has delivered to clients like Channel 9 (world ratings record), KFC, Madura Tea, the Greater Building Society, Parramatta Leagues, News Ltd, the NRL & countless other businesses.

AND HE’S REVEALING HIS “WOW MARKETING SYSTEM” AT THIS 1 DAY “HOW TO ATTRACT NEW CLIENTS” EVENT! • GOLD COAST – FRI 7 OCT, 2016 • GOLD COAST – FRI 28 OCT, 2016 • SYDNEY – FRI 4 NOV, 2016 • GOLD COAST – FRI 18 NOV, 2016 • SYDNEY – FRI 25 NOV, 2016

John scored a massive coup in recent years, when he coaxed Jerry Seinfeld to be spokesman for one of his clients, the Greater Building Society.

The marketing campaign resulted in the building society TRIPLING its home loan market share virtually overnight.

Seinfeld said Dwyer “was the cleverest marketing person he had ever worked with” – high praise indeed!

B2B & B2C Ideas – Online & Offline

The event covers both business to business and business to consumer marketing ideas online & offline. And he’ll demonstrate HOW to create a website “that SELLS!” (because most sites DON’T!).

Dwyer’s clients refer to him as “The Business Whisperer” because of his track record and proven marketing system.

One Sydney tourism business saw annual sales catapult from $10m to $14m with just one of his “outside the box” ideas.

but as a special offer for our magazine readers, a limited number of tickets are available for

JUST $97 PER PERSON and can be gained at

www.explodeyoursales.com.au His “system” has resulted in Doubling, Tripling & Quadrupling Sales for clients.

It’s not unusual for Dwyer’s clients to experience dramatic increases in sales quickly.

One of his clients selling “incontinence relief products” changed her Facebook ads to follow Dwyer’s system - and her webpage visitations exploded from 4,000 per week to 93,000 per week!

A Melbourne fun park quadrupled its attendance figures within days of adopting Dwyer’s marketing formula and a holiday resort had to stop the marketing campaign due to enjoying full occupancy as a result of Dwyer’s system.

And the list of success stories goes on – many of which Dwyer will showcase at his event.

INFO & TICKETS AT: www.explodeyoursales.com.au OR PHONE 07 55 919 566 Dwyer’s coaching programs for businesses are detailed at www.theinstituteofwow.com

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12/09/2016 3:14 PM

Backpage I TALES FROM ROW 57*

NO MAN IS AN ISLAND

176

IT WAS OUR family’s first time basking in the beauty of the South Pacific and island life was agreeing with us something fierce. How we rejoiced in the tropical sun on our faces. How we revelled in the crystalline Pacific saltwater. How we screamed as we were suddenly drenched in freezing rain.

Not rain as we knew it, either. For a start it was horizontal. We were accustomed to water falling out of the sky onto our heads; we were less used to having it fired into our faces as if from God’s own Super Soaker.

Pew pew pew went the watery bullets, and we quickly decided that our fellow beachgoers, sprinting frantically for shelter, had the right idea.

Scrambling out of the sea, we bolted for our towels and were just about to reach the sweet protective embrace of the café hut when I heard an agonised howl, like a puppy having a tooth removed.

I turned and saw my daughter, Layla, frozen on the sand, wailing in pain and clutching her leg as the rain continued to buffet us both.

My mind leapt to the obvious conclusion: bluebottle! Good God, my

little girl had been stung.

We would need an airlift (I don’t know much about bluebottle stings).

I scooped Layla up and rushed her out of the rain and through shuddering sobs, she informed us that there was no bluebottle: she’d just pulled a hamstring.

Of all the problems that I had foreseen coming up on holiday, a sevenyear-old girl twanging her hammy had not really occurred to me. I had cause to regret this lack of foresight, as I carried Layla, weeping and moaning, back to the boat.

And let me tell you, a seven year old only takes about four seconds to get

We were less used to having it fired into our faces as if from God’s own Super Soaker incredibly heavy. It was like hauling a particularly sad sack of potatoes across the island, as onlookers clucked their tongues in sympathy and knowledgeably muttered to each other, “Poor thing.

Bluebottle sting.”

I’d have corrected them but I was finding speech difficult, being on the

brink of, simultaneously, a heart attack, a hernia and a slipped disc from carrying my darling daughter.

And so our island idyll was ended, though the trip continued. There would be other islands.

Islands without rain.

Islands without pulled hammies.

But no island would give us as good a story to tell. And what are holidays for, if not to give us stories? And, obviously, back injuries.

Ben Pobjie is a Melbourne -based writer and comedian, whose work appears in The Age. He recently published Error Australis, a humorous look at Australian history.

ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

A Pacific downpour leaves Ben Pobjie’s family with glorious memories – and a few injuries

* ROW 57 IS THE LAST ROW OF SEATING ON JETSTAR’S 787 AIRCRAFT.

176_BACKPAGE_TRAVEL TALES.indd 176

12/09/2016 3:15 PM

TA K E THE 10 SECOND

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IFC_IBC_BC_OCT.indd 101

12/09/2016 3:24 PM

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12/09/2016 29/07/16 11:05 3:24 AM PM