Jetstar September Magazine

SEPTEMBER 2017 jetstar MAGAZINE

WEST SIDE STORY

Head off the beaten path on Bangkok’s west bank

MAGAZINE

ADVENTURE ISLANDS

There’s no better place to go wild than New Zealand

RAISING THE BAR

The world is waking up to homegrown Australian spirits

ADELAIDE HILLS I TOHOKU I SYDNEY SHOPPING I MOTEL REVIVAL

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Wild ones PHOTO ESSAY

MEET THE PHOTOGRAPHER ON A QUEST TO CAPTURE AUSTRALIA’S CREATURES (GREAT AND SMALL!)

S GETS ITE ’ A Y A R ‘ST SCRABBL OWN AME G

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5 1. GO WILD IN KAKADU Have a four-wheel-drive and camping adventure in the Northern Territory’s stunning Kakadu National Park. kakadutourism.com

2. GOOD AS GOLDIE

PHOTOGRAPHY LA LUNE WINE CO.,ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, VISIONS OF VICTORIA, SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION, TOURISM WA, ALAMY, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, TOURISM TASMANIA AND PHIL KITT

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6. LOST IN THE VINES From fine dining and farm gates to boutiques and bakeries, there’s more to the iconic Barossa Valley than just award-winning wines. barossa.com

As the Gold Coast gears up for the Commonwealth Games next April, new life is being breathed into this sun-kissed city. destinationgoldcoast.com

7. HIT THE WAVES

3. FOODIE ADVENTURE

8. GO GLAMPING

Spend your days catching waves at Byron Bay. New to surfing?

Take a lesson with the experts and you’ll soon be hooked. byronbaysurfschool.com

Feast on Tasmania’s stunning seafood, wines and produce on a foodie tour of the island. Kick off with a visit to Hobart’s famous weekly Salamanca Market. salamanca.com.au

Have a luxury safari experience at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo with spectacular views of the harbour and plenty of wild encounters. taronga.org.au

4. MAKE A NEW FRIEND

Cool food precincts are blooming in Brisbane. Explore small bars in Fish Lane, hang with hipsters in Fortitude Valley or dine riverside in South Bank. visitbrisbane.com.au

The quokkas of Rottnest Island are Western Australia’s friendliest inhabitants. Say ‘hi’ as you explore WA’s most chilled-out island. rottnestisland.com

5. LOVE A LANEWAY Explore the iconic grafittipasted laneways of Melbourne with Blender Studios’ street-art tour, led by local street artists. melbournestreettours.com

9. BRISVEGAS BITES

10. FOLLOW THE ROAD Discover Victoria’s favourite coastal playground along the winding Great Ocean Road, where you can crash in a tent or splash out on five-star lodgings. visitgreatoceanroad.org.au

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september

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That’s the spirit

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ON THE COVER: Portrait of an Australian echidna. PHOTOGRAPHY: © PHOTO BY JOEL SARTORE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO ARK - NATGEOPHOTOARK.ORG

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contents SEPTEMBER 2017

EXPERIENCE

54

EXPLORE

12 I WHAT’S ON

46 I WILD THINGS

14 I NEWS

Fall in love with these stunning wildlife portraits

18 I MY PLACE Marion Grasby spills the beans on Thailand’s Thonglor

20 I THE SHORTLIST Delicious pastries and bread from our favourite bakeries

54-67 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Stories to inspire your next New Zealand adventure

68 I SHOP SYDNEY The city’s best retail therapy

76 I TOHOKU TIME Off-the-beaten-path Japan

83 I BAY BLISS Moreton Bay’s beautiful islands

22 I HOW-TO

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89 I RIVER LIFE

Take on transport when you travel

Explore Bangkok’s charming west bank

25 I IMBIBE

95 I MOTEL REVIVAL

Destination-themed cocktails

26 I FOOD TREND

From daggy to designer

101 I SPIRITED AWAY

The right (and the wrong way) to barbecue

The distillers transforming Australia’s spirits scene

29 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

152 I BACKPAGE

Explore the pretty Adelaide Hills

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Tales from row 57

35 I HEALTH Perfect your paddle on Sydney’s harbour

36 I SPA & WELLNESS Enjoy a massage in Fiji

ESSENTIALS

38 I SUITS YOU

120 I Jetstar news

Second-hand can be stylish

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40 I RECIPE

128 I Where we fly

Join the jam-making club

133 I Games and puzzles

42 I WORK & PLAY

139 I Entertainment

Behind-the-scenes screen stars

guide

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Welcome I GROUP CEO

EDITORIAL For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Ingrid Nason Editor Justine Costigan Deputy Editor Krysia Bonkowski Subeditor Leanne Tolra Art Director Robert Bertagni Designer Natalie LaChina Picture Editor Janet Gomes

Direct, affordable air travel with Jetstar

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels JETSTAR MAGAZINE

is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia

PHOTO LAUREN BAMFORD

+61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved.

Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015.

Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

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we’re always on the lookout for new opportunities as we continue to grow

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hen Jetstar began flying over 13 years ago, we operated 800 flights every week. Today, there are 800 Jetstar flights each day. That’s one every two minutes! We now fly to 85 destinations through 171 direct routes across Australia, New Zealand and Asia.

Our everyday low and affordable fares have helped more people to travel more often.

A testament to that is the simple fact that of the 37 million people we transported last year, twothirds flew for under $100.

Every year as our network expands and we work hard to improve your experience flying

with Jetstar, we find ways to offer you even more low fares.

Great examples of this are the direct flights from Dong Hoi, Vietnam to Chiang Mai, Thailand that Jetstar Pacific recently launched. And starting this month, customers will be able to fly directly from Osaka, Japan to Da Nang and Hanoi in Vietnam.

We’ve also recently added more services out of Singapore with flights to Hat Yai in Thailand and Okinawa in Japan.

Providing low fares to some of the world’s most exciting and unique destinations is just part of what we do, and we’re always on the lookout for new opportunities as we continue to grow. Stay alert for new and exciting Jetstar destinations coming later this year. And please do keep us posted on how we are performing – we love to hear from you.

We look forward to having you on board again soon.

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Jayne Hrdlicka Jetstar Group CEO

Discover remote Japan on page 76

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S U N DAYS

B EAC H

C LU B

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BA L I

A private piece of paradise Sundays Beach Club is Bali's most spectacular beach front location.

Indulge in fabulously fresh all day dining. Explore the crystal clear lagoon and scattered rock pools with complimentary water sports. Relax by the bonfires to the cool tunes as the sun sets cliffside.

www. su n d ays b e ac hc lu b .com

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Tempted in Thonglor

Take a wander around Bangkok’s Thonglor neighbourhood and discover great bars like the dark and moody Iron Fairies (pictured). For more inspiration see page 18.

PHOTO IRON FAIRIES

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LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

Spring has sprung!

September Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers

15-24 September Toowoomba, Queensland

Brisbane Festival

For 68 years, Toowoomba has welcomed spring with floral excesses, top musical acts and seasonal foodie experiences showing off the riches of Southern Queensland. tcof.com.au

9-30 September Brisbane, Queensland

Attracting around one million revellers a year, the Brisbane Festival inundates the Queensland capital with culture, wrapping up with the spectacular Sunsuper Riverfire fireworks display. brisbanefestival.com.au

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Melbourne Fashion Week

Gay Ski Week

2-9 September Queenstown, New Zealand Join the party as the Southern Hemisphere’s largest Winter Pride event returns to the Southern Alps. Queenstown’s famous après ski scene outdoes itself with a week of events both on and off the slopes, from dress-up snow days and night skiing to cabaret shows and dance parties. gayskiweekqt.com

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Junction Arts Festival

6-10 September Launceston, Tasmania The line between audience and artist is blurred during this quirky multi-arts festival.

Showing off the creative side of this scenic city, live performances and participatory events will pop up in unexpected settings. junctionartsfestival.com.au

Darwin International Film Festival

14-23 September Darwin, Northern Territory Centered around Darwin’s Deckchair Cinema, this celebration of the screen showcases national, Indigenous and international cinema, with the CINEMA 360 projection dome making its debut. diff.net.au

See some of the nation’s best designers show their wares at fashion hubs around the city. Get a preview of what we’ll be wearing this summer at runway shows, and learn about the fastmoving fashion world through exhibitions, documentaries and indepth workshops. mfw.melbourne.vic.gov.au

PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON SHIFF, ALAMY

1-8 September Melbourne, Victoria

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

HONG KONG

Hungry Ghost Festival 5 September Hong Kong

In keeping with ancient Chinese beliefs, people honour their ancestors on the 15th day of the 7th lunar month to prevent their spirits rising from hell. The whole month is marked with revelry and ritual in Hong Kong.

Kings Park Festival

It’s a great month to…

1-30 September Perth, Western Australia

Admire Western Australia’s spectacular annual wildflower display in the heart of the city during the Kings Park Festival, with walks, talks and exhibitions all month. bgpa.wa.gov.au

DISCOVER the foodie side of this famous wine region during the Barossa Gourmet Weekend, on 1-3 September. barossagourmet.com

OzAsia Festival

21 September to 8 October Adelaide, South Australia Take a deep dive into the culture of our northern neighbours, with talented musicians, artists, thespians and directors from across Asia presenting a cuttingedge arts program. ozasiafestival.com.au

WARM up and hit the scenic courses during Sydney Running Festival on 17 September. sydneyrunning festival.com.au

Curryfest

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CATCH

23 September Woolgoolga, New South Wales

footy fever in the week leading up to the Toyota AFL Grand Final with the AFL Footy Festival, 27-30 September. afl .com.au

The tight-knit community of this small coastal town celebrates its Punjabi heritage with feasting, mass yoga classes and colourful cultural performances. curryfest.com.au

National Ballooning Championships 2-9 September Northam, Western Australia

If you find yourself in the Avon Valley region this month, look skywards to see some of the nation’s best balloonists in action.

And we’re off

northamnationals.com

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Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

Q&A with Frank Woodley INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

Do kids have a better sense of humour than adults?

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Thanks for choosing to fly with us today – it’s great to have you on board.

Are you travelling by yourself or with a group today? If you’re part of a group booking you’ll be pleased to know that booking for a crowd has just become a whole lot easier with our new FareShare payment option, which allows customers in Australia and New Zealand to split the bill when booking on Jetstar.com.

No longer does one person need to pay for the entire booking, instead each passenger can pay for their share of the flights, and added products such as bags and seats. Find out more about FareShare on Jetstar.com.

Why not gather your friends and explore the adventurous side of New Zealand? Don’t miss our special feature this month where we take you on a 3000km journey from north to south (page 54), and inspire you to get active in the North Island’s wonderful Lake Taupo (page 61).

Enjoy your flight, see you again soon.

Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

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With his brand of big-hearted physical comedy, rubber-limbed performer Frank Woodley What are the joys of is a fixture on Australia’s performing for kids? comedy scene.

Having a room full of kids After dipping a toe in the water with his book series Kizmet, Frank took the leap into stand-up for kids with his show Noodlenut. We talked to Frank as he prepares to bring Noodlenut to the Sydney Opera House these school holidays.

What is a noodlenut?

I’m not sure. It was a nickname I had as a kid and always loved.

It sort of sounds to me like someone who’s a crazy dag.

Were you the class clown at school?

Yes, although originally I was the class trapeze artist, which required me to get to class an hour and a half before everyone else to set up my equipment.

What made you give kids’ comedy a try?

When I made my TV show Woodley a few years ago it was all visual and physical jokes, and I had a lot of people tell me they enjoyed watching it as a family. Soon after that I wrote and illustrated a few mystery novels for kids about a 10-year-old super sleuth called Kizmet, and when I was promoting the books I did a bunch of events for kids and really enjoyed it. The penny just dropped.

screaming with laughter is just exhilarating. And I think spending an hour a day getting right into their wild, innocent mind-set is probably really good for me too. These days kids mostly get their comedy on screens and there’s nothing like the atmosphere you can create when the performer is working off the reactions in the room.

What did your own children think about the show?

They enjoyed it. It must be pretty weird having a dad who runs round like a naughty nineyear-old, but they’re used to it by now.

Where is your favourite place to perform?

To be honest, performing is a very strange experience, almost like being in a Tardis. I take my show to a new town or city but when I’m performing it’s almost like the show is a place and the audience have joined me there. I’ve been very lucky that the venues have always been full of enthusiastic kids and parents, and I’ve had a ball in every show.

Noodlenut is at the Sydney Opera House from 25 September to 8 October. comedy.com.au

PHOTO DEAN GOLJA, CHIN CHIN, MARK WHITELOCK

Welcome

As long as they know what I’m talking about I can perform in exactly the same way as I do for adults. One of the things that’s a bit different is they’re not as hung up about failure.

If you fluff a line in front of adults there’s immediately a nervous tension in the room, and if you acknowledge it you can get a laugh. Kids, on the other hand, don’t really care if you make a little mistake. They just want you to get on with what you are doing.

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Experience I NEWS

FOODIE FINDS

POP-UP ART

Wherefore art thou Melbourne?

Proving you can’t have too much of a good thing, the Pop-up Globe is coming to Melbourne after a successful season in Auckland last year. The Sidney Myer Music Bowl will be rechristened Shakespeare Gardens for the three-month run, during which a talented cast will bedazzle with renditions of the Bard’s most beloved plays before vanishing into thin air by November.

Restaurants ON THE MOVE

21 September to 12 November popupglobe.com.au

A host of high-profile restaurant groups are busy expanding their empires. Melbourne’s ever-popular Chin Chin is bringing the Lucas Group’s trademark style to Sydney’s Griffiths Teas Building, with plenty of Asian-inspired flaming and roasting on the cards. Sydney-sider Sam Christie has looked even further afield to open Longrain Tokyo, bringing his inventive SouthEast Asian cuisine to the 39th floor of the Yebisu Garden Place Tower. Prolific restaurateur Will Meyrick is continuing to make his mark in Asia with Som Chai, the latest addition to the Sarong Group. The opulent 80-seat Thai restaurant and bar is found on the popular Jalan Raya Kerobokan strip in Bali.

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Penguin to Cradle MUST-DO

Bucket-list adventure

Tasmanian Expeditions has announced the ultimate adventure – a five-week odyssey from the far north of the Apple Isle to the south. Lasting 39 days, the Great Tasmanian Traverse covers five of Tasmania’s most iconic wilderness experiences – the Penguin to Cradle, Overland Track, Frenchman’s Cap Trek, rafting the Franklin River and South Coast Track. Intrepid hikers will journey by foot, raft, light plane and yacht. The first trip will depart in February next year, to be repeated annually. greattasmaniantraverse.com

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Experience I NEWS

WANT IT NOW

THREE OF A KIND

Beer!

Take your love of the golden brew to a new level

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Beer fest

For the newest edition of New Zealand beer bible Brewed, Wellington-based Jules van Costello tasted more than 450 beers from 160 Kiwi breweries.

It’s the perfect guide for everyone from devout hopheads to craft-beer newbies wanting to know more. Available from mid month, RRP $39.99 brewed.co.nz

Dust off the lederhosen and dirndls, the world’s biggest beer festival is back next month. You don’t need to go to Munich to get a taste of Oktoberfest, with Oktoberfest in the Gardens returning to Melbourne, Sydney, Perth and Adelaide, bringing beer halls, Bavarianinspired food and live entertainment. oktoberfestinthegardens.com.au

Yum!

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2

My

Little Ponies

Who said practical had to be boring? Luxury New Zealand leather brand Deadly Ponies has teamed up with Hasbro on a range of rainbowhued leather goods inspired by ’80s icon My Little Ponies. We love the Mr Fill n Zip Pony, $989, deadlyponies.com

WE’RE LOVING

La Luna Rose’s Bon Voyage collection. Earrings $69, charms $42 each. lalunarose.com MUST READ

Beer ice cream

Collingwood beer hall Stomping Ground has become a favourite of Melbourne’s beer lovers.

If more than a dozen tap beers aren’t enough, finish up with a house-made beer-flavoured iced treat – the Beer Sorbet made with a blackcurrant sour, or ice creams created with stout or brown ale. stompingground.beer

A golden guide The Gold Coast has more up its sleeve than bronzed beach babes and great waves. A new, free guide offers insight into its vibrant creative heart, with tips from 11 resident artists, musos, writers and architects.

Pick up the Cultural Concierge, A Curated Collection of the Gold Coast at local boutiques, cafés, galleries, and hotels.

PHOTOGRAPHY DEADLY PONIES, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, STOMPING GROUND, OKTOBERFEST IN THE GARDENS

Beer bible

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9/08/2017 4:25 PM

Get a bonus flight on us* when you take off with a Jetstar MasterCardÂŽ

Get these fantastic Jetstar benefits with your card^ Fly interest free No interest for 6 months on bookings of $300 or more Travel rewards Opt in to the Jetstar Dollars Program No payment fee For direct bookings with Jetstar Choose Jetstar Dollars, be approved by 30 November 2017 and spend $2,000 on eligible purchases within 60 days of approval.

For more information and to apply, go to jetstar.com/bonusflight

0% balance transfers For 14 months from the date of card approval 10% off on-board food and drink purchases

All day, every day, low fares

*New applicants and Australian residents only. Selected flights only - check with the Jetstar Call Centre for availability on your preferred travel dates. The bonus flight is only available on limited Australian Domestic sectors and through Jetstar.com/bonusflight. You will not be eligible for the bonus flight offer if you choose Qantas Frequent Flyer Rewards. The flight must be booked within 6 months of card activation and a minimum of 30 days prior to travel through the Jetstar Call Centre (1300 360 520). Checked baggage is not included but may be added for an additional fee. Flights are subject to availability and non-refundable. Limited changes are permitted, charges apply and Fare Difference will apply. All travel is subject to the Jetstar Conditions of Carriage. The offer is non-transferable or redeemable for cash and cannot be combined with any other offer. Bonus flight is offered by Card Services. ^Terms & Conditions apply, visit jetstar.com/bonusflight and the Jetstar MasterCard Rewards Terms and Conditions for more information. Card Services is a division of Macquarie Bank Limited (ABN 46 008 583 542, Australian Credit Licence 237502), which provides and administers credit and is the issuer of the Jetstar MasterCard. Approval is subject to Card Services credit criteria and suitability assessment. Terms and conditions, fees and charges apply and are available upon request. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

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4/08/2017 5:00 pm 18/08/2017 10:02 AM

Experience I MY PLACE

18

A taste of THONGLOR

Bangkok’s Thonglor precinct is a delicious drawcard for MasterChef alumna turned food entrepreneur Marion Grasby A finalist on season two of MasterChef Australia, Marion Grasby quickly became a firm favourite with fans of the show.

After the show ended, she went on to publish cook books and filmed a TV series, Marion’s Thailand, for Foxtel, but her biggest project has

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been Marion’s Kitchen, an internationally successful range of gourmet Thai food products using family recipes and authentic ingredients.

The business began in her Australian kitchen with then fiancé, now husband, Tim Althaus, in 2010, but in 2012 the

couple moved to Bangkok to be closer to the brand’s key suppliers. Marion’s Thai heritage ensures she is at home in Thailand’s buzzing capital. “It’s the South-East Asian version of New York,” she says.

Thonglor is one of her favourite Bangkok hangouts. “Thonglor

means ‘golden alley’ and it’s where the Chinese merchants used to sell gold. It’s a hot pocket of authentic local and international food, and it’s where I spend most of my eating and drinking time.” marionskitchen.com

PHOTOGRAPHY CHIRAWAT MAHASAPATHAWORN, MARRIOTT, ALAMY

INTERVIEW JUSTINE COSTIGAN

9/08/2017 4:26 PM

Experience I MY PLACE Octave Rooftop Lounge and Bar. RIGHT AND BELOW: Nam Prik Khai Pu, a spicy dip of sea water crab eggs and crab meat at Supanniga Eating Room. Inside the EmQuartier.

KHUA KLING PAK SOD 98/1 Thonglor 5, Sukhumvit Road 55 khuaklingpaksod.com This is the place for authentic traditional Southern Thai food, which is hard to get in Bangkok.

It’s mild and fragrant – we bring family members here who can’t stomach chilli – and their yellow crab curry served with rice noodles is my all-time favourite Thai dish.

LITTLE BAO 72 Thonglor 16-18, Sukhumvit Road 55 Hong Kong’s Little Bao opened in Bangkok last year and, as the name suggests, it specialises in Chinese bao (buns). I love the amazing fried chicken served in a soft, white bun. The restaurant’s owner, May Chow, was also named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017.

OCTAVE ROOFTOP LOUNGE AND BAR Bangkok Marriott Hotel 57, 2 Sukhumvit Road 55 marriott.com One of the really cool things to do in Bangkok is go to a sky bar.

The Octave bar is on the 57th floor of the Marriott and you can see right across the Chao Phraya River to a view of the city’s buildings. Get there just before sunset and grab some cocktails. It’s always warm in Bangkok, so it’s a great spot to catch a breeze too.

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FOLLOW: @m

arionskitche

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Keep up to date with Marion on Instagram THE COMMONS 335 Thonglor 17, Sukhumvit Road 55 thecommonsbkk.com The Commons is one of Bangkok’s community malls and here you’ll find kioskstyle restaurants featuring local producers. You order the food you want and then eat in the communal area.

All the restaurants are really cool but my favourite is Soul Food Mahanakorn. They took the flavours of a traditional laksa soup and turned it into a burger, complete with fried crispy noodles in the bun.

It’s totally amazing and worth a special trip.

IRON FAIRIES

EMQUARTIER

402 Sukhumvit Road 55 Find Iron Fairies on Facebook This bar looks dank and dark from the street but when you open the door it’s a huge, cavernous space. It’s decorated in a weird and whimsical way with strange statues and apothecary bottles. The bar has lovely intimate spaces too and it’s a great spot for a cocktail and a burger.

689, 693 and 695 Sukhumvit Road 55 theemdistrict.com Asia’s super-luxe shopping malls are something to behold. The EmQuartier, next to Benchasiri Park, includes a department store, shopping mall, luxury cinema, food halls and supermarkets, five levels of dining terraces plus offices and a hotel. It even has its own five-storey waterfall.

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM 160/11 Sukhumvit Road 55 supannigaeatingroom.com This is the place for amazing Thai dining. You can eat classic Thai food but they also have some great off-the-beatenpath dishes if you’re feeling adventurous. Try the jungle curries – spicy curries from inner Thailand that don’t include coconut milk – and the spicy crab relish, a dipping sauce for eggplant and green beans.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Bangkok from Melbourne.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

9/08/2017 4:26 PM

Experience I THE SHORTLIST

2 Coffee & cake

Bakeries If you don’t like to travel on an empty stomach, make a note of these temples to pastry 20

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WORDS HANNAH LOUEY

1. DACI + DACI

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11 Murray Street, Hobart, Tasmania dacianddacibakers.com.au A little taste of Paris in Tassie, Daci + Daci in the heart of Hobart provides an array of delicious treats for fans of savoury and sweet. Its glass cabinets are full of tempting treats, from tarts and sandwiches to delectable cakes, pastries and desserts.

2. OLAF’S ARTISAN BAKERY CAFE 1 Stokes Road, Mount Eden, Auckland, New Zealand olafs.co.nz Owner Olaf trained in Germany as a baker and pastry chef, and now showcases his talents at this Auckland bakery. There’s a dizzying array of bread on offer from the French pain de campagne sourdough to The Real Olaf’s Vollkorn, a dense German-style bread. Try the fig and fennel sourdough –

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fermented for more than 18 hours – paired with cheese, olive oil or antipasto.

3. MARGARET RIVER BAKERY 89 Bussell Highway, Margaret River, Western Australia margaretriverbakery.com.au This European-inspired café, decked out with vintage dinnerware and eclectic second-hand furniture, is popular with locals.

Whether you’re stopping by for breakfast, lunch or an afternoon refuel, the tea and scones are always excellent, and best enjoyed outside on the wide, breezy balcony.

4. ALLEY CATS PATISSERIE 14/69 Mitchell Street, Darwin, Northern Territory Find them on Facebook It makes some of the best coffee in town, but Alley Cats’ house-made cakes, pies, tarts and pastries vie for popularity.

Insta-worthy treats extend to the drinks menu too, with gravity-defying freak shakes in mason jars competing for attention.

Make sure to capture some envy-inducing snaps for Instagram.

5. LUNE CROISSANTERIE 119 Rose Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria lunecroissanterie.com Lune Croissanterie’s croissants are so good that weekend queues often stretch out the door and along the street. Aerospace engineer turned patissier Kate Reid’s award-winning creations are made in the Lune Lab and include the original butter croissant, and almond and chocolate variations, plus three types of its newly famous cousin, the cruffin, in aperol, lamington and lemon-curd flavours.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CRERAR, SHAANA MCNAUGHT, TOURISM NT, MARGARET RIVER BAKERY, OLAF'S ARTISAN BAKERY, LUNE CROISSANTERIE

5

1

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9/08/2017 7/7/17 10:21 4:27 AM PM

Experience I HOW-TO

ABOARD

Negotiating public transport in unfamiliar places takes a bit of know-how WORDS BEN GROUNDWATER

Thai tuk tuks

Vietnamese xic lo

You’ll have to haggle for your rickshaw rides in Thailand, and haggle hard. These colourful three-wheelers are a great way to get around, but the prices are negotiable and the drivers are hardcore.

As long as you’re not in a hurry, a Vietnamese xic lo, or cycle rickshaw, is a lovely way to see the place. Just ensure you settle on a price beforehand and prepare for life in the slow lane.

Filipino jeepneys

Jakarta’s bajajs

These gaudy, multicoloured buses are a riot in more ways than one.

Simply hail a jeepney going in your direction, squish into a seat, pay the driver in small change, and alert him/her when you want to get off.

The Indonesian capital’s beaten up but ubiquitous three-wheeled transportation will get you wherever you need to go – however, be prepared to haggle on price, and to hang on tight as soon as you hit the road.

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Japanese Shinkansen You’ll need to purchase your bullet-train tickets in advance for the best price (english.jr-central.co.jp).

All seats are allocated by ticket, and all trains leave bang on time.

Hong Kong ferries Hong Kong’s iconic Star Ferries run across the harbour from Hong Kong

Island to Kowloon. Rides cost HK$2.50 and take about 10 minutes. Buy a ticket before boarding.

Fijian share taxis Travellers looking for shared transport in Fiji can either use a minivan, or a carrier – a truck that allows passengers to sit in the back. Both are cheap, and can be found on the

PHOTO & ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

22

ublic transport: it sounds like the sort of thing you should be able to handle in your sleep. Buy a ticket, hop on board, get off when you reach your stop.

Except, of course, it’s not that easy.

Not when you’re travelling.

As you very quickly find out, every country has its own unique forms of getting from one place to another, as well as its own systems of etiquette, laws and sets of assumed knowledge.

Catching a tuk tuk in Bangkok is a different experience to riding the Shinkansen in Tokyo.

Hopping on board a cycle rickshaw in Ho Chi Minh City comes with a different set of rules to riding the MRT in Singapore. If you’re going to get where you need to go, with time saved and correct money spent, you need to know the rules.

9/08/2017 4:28 PM

Experience I HOW-TO

23

main streets of Nadi and Suva on Viti Levu.

Hawaii’s The Bus The cheapest way to get around Oahu is The Bus. One-way rides cost US$2.50, and should be paid in correct change upon boarding. You’ll be issued with a transfer if your ride involves more than one bus route.

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All seats are allocated by ticket, and all trains leave bang on time Balinese scooters Scooter hire is extremely popular among foreigners in Bali, but it’s worth

remembering that if you are not licensed to ride a scooter at home, you may not be covered by your travel insurance in Bali.

Singapore’s MRT Singapore’s underground metro system is fast, safe, clean and efficient. Simply buy a ticket beforehand (after selecting your destination on the ticket

machine), find the right platform and hop on.

Kiwi campervans While not strictly public transport, the best way to see this gem of a country is in a campervan, which can be hired from myriad companies. Free-camping (but not on private land) is legal in NZ, so park up and snooze at leisure.

9/08/2017 4:28 PM

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PACIFIC FAIR G O L D C OA S T

9/08/2017 4:29 PM

Experience I IMBIBE

Local libations

3 more iconic pours

Discover the drinks that define a destination

BIA HAI On a hot night in Ha Noi it can feel as if half the city is on the street, many of them with a Bia Hai in hand – a light, refreshing beer that somehow never tastes the same in less than 80 per cent humidity.

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

Tropical trimmings

PAPER PLANE Melbourne’s bar scene has matured since it gave us the Japanese Slipper in 1984. Bartender Sam Ross might be an honorary New Yorker, but he cut his teeth at Fitzroy’s gone-butnot-forgotten Ginger. The Penicillin is Sam’s most famous invention, but the Paper Plane is sure to join it on the classics list.

INGREDIENTS • 22ml Bourbon whiskey • 22ml Aperol • 22ml Amaro Nonino • 22ml Lemon juice

METHOD

PHOTOGRAPHY HILTON KUALA LUMPUR, RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL

THE JUNGLE BIRD

Add all ingredients to a shaker filled with ice.

Shake and strain into a coupe glass.

Colourful, fruit-driven Tiki cocktails might be associated with Polynesia, but this one is proudly Malaysian. The Jungle Bird is first believed to have taken flight in 1978 at the now defunct Aviary Bar of the Kuala Lampur Hilton, but can still be ordered at the Hilton’s Chambers Bar & Grill.

METHOD Add all ingredients to a shaker and fill with ice.

Shake and strain into an Old Fashioned glass filled with ice. Garnish with a pineapple wedge.

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GUNNER First popularised by British expats living in the intercontinental melting pot that is Hong Kong, this mocktail combines ginger ale and ginger beer (or lemonade) with lemon or lime and a dash of bitters.

Raffles (the group behind iconic destination cocktail the Singapore Sling), the Femme Fatale has been revived as the Elephant Bar’s signature cocktail.

INGREDIENTS • 45ml Dark rum • 22ml Campari • 45ml Pineapple juice • Squeeze of lime

WHISKY HIGHBALL Japanese distiller Suntory has driven the revival of this deceptively simple cocktail, which now outsells nearly every other alcoholic beverage in Japan. The blend of whisky and sparkling water can be found everywhere from vending machines to high-end cocktail bars.

FEMME FATALE

INGREDIENTS

The Femme Fatale was first served at the Elephant Bar in Phnom Penh’s Hotel Le Royal to first lady Jackie Kennedy in 1967. Since Hotel Le Royal was restored by

METHOD

• 7.5ml Crème de Fraise • Dash of cognac • Champagne to top Build in a Champagne Flute and garnish with an orchid.

9/08/2017 4:29 PM

Experience I FOOD TREND

26

FLAMIN’ THE GOOD-OLD AUSSIE BARBECUE ISN’T QUITE AS ICONIC AS WE THINK. IF IT AIN’T SMOKING, YOU’RE JOKING WORDS LARISSA DUBECKI

S

moke, flame and meat. The inescapable combination means only one thing: barbecue.

But here’s the rub.

Australians like to claim the barbecue as a cultural cornerstone, yet any expert will tell you we’ve been doing it wrong for more than 200 years.

It’s as shocking as it is true. As Bob Hart, barbecue expert and

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educator explains, what Aussies commonly refer to as barbecue cooking is in fact grilling.

“Australians are not natural barbecuers,” says Bob, author of best-seller Heat and Smoke.

“We cook on hot plates, which is an absolute abomination because you’re putting an obstacle between the meat and the flame. The other madness is cooking with the lid up, which is like driving down

the road with your car doors open. You need the flame licking the meat.”

What’s cooking The good news is that the growing appetite for southern US-style “low and slow” barbecue, seen in restaurants across the capital cities, is leaching into our national dining conversation.

Just ask Australian aficionado Jess Pryles, who loves barbecue so much she moved to its

spiritual home of Austin, Texas. Despite her defection, the co-founder of the Australasian Barbecue Alliance and author of the new book Hardcore Carnivore says Australians are fast catching up to the US. “We first saw the trend start to flicker about five years ago and it has spread like wildfire,” Jess says. “Some of the food being produced by Aussie ‘pit guys’ is of an

9/08/2017 4:29 PM

PHOTOGRAPHY BOVINE & SWINE, BROTHERS BREWERY & JUKE JOINT

Experience I FOOD TREND

extremely high level.”

The inevitable trickledown effect of the trend means that plenty of weekend cooking warriors are getting rid of their gas barbecues – much to the delight of Bob. “Those gas monstrosities are way too boring and clinical.

“The big trend at the moment is to fire up the solid fuel. There are now some extraordinary products on the market.

It used to be heat beads or brown coal pressed into briquettes, but now you can get briquettes made from coconut, which are far superior,” Bob says.

Their benefit is that coconut is flavour-neutral: the only flavour you want your meat to soak up is that of wood smoke from adding chips of hickory, pecan or Australian wood such as redgum.

But go easy, Bob says.

“Almost everyone uses too much wood and goes too hard on the smoke. In barbecue, less is more.”

Another thing to avoid, Bob says, is the use of

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Brothers Brewery & Juke Joint, Bob Hart, cuts from Bovine & Swine.

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Try it here

The big trend at the moment is to fire up the solid fuel marinade (“marinades are for braising things, not for barbecue”) and fire starters. “Never use those … they leach the taste of petrol into your food, and that’s never a good thing.”

Trends in the US include fusion sides such as kimchi collard greens, beetroot barbecue sauce and confit garlic cornbread. “Elevated barbecue, if you will,” Jess says. For home, she notes that the more complicated a barbecuing feat, the better. “Backyard warriors are challenging themselves with long cooks, often tackling brisket first, which is ironic, as it’s the most difficult cut of all.”

AUCKLAND Brothers Brewery & Juke Joint 5 Akiraho Street, Mt Eden brothersbeer.co.nz US-style barbecue in a nofrills former leatherworks factory – yes, Brothers Brewery knows how to value-add its industrial mise-en-scene with a sliced-to-order meat menu piled onto metal trays. Choose from pulled pork, pastrami, beef rib and more, then add comfort-heavy sides such as macaroni cheese and collard greens.

27

MELBOURNE Le Bon Ton 51 Gipps Street, Collingwood, lebonton.com.au A gritty pub in backstreet Collingwood reimagined as a New Orleans hooch house, Le Bon Ton brings the Southern US barbecue goods with pit-smoked meats including Texasstyle brisket, coffeerubbed lamb ribs and pork belly lavished with Creole honey mustard.

SYDNEY Bovine & Swine 92 Enmore Road, Enmore bovineandswine.com.au Join the queue for fingerlickin’ good pork ribs, chicken breast and hot links (thick-sliced spicy sausages) all smoked over Australian ironbark — and get to this hipster hangout early, because they sell out fast.

9/08/2017 4:29 PM

An experience above all else

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MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA

9/08/2017 4:31 PM

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

ADELAIDE HILLS 24 HOURS IN

East of the city is a feast of produce, fine drops and creative dining WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Adelaide

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Shaw + Smith cellar door, Cleland Conservation Park, organic pizza and natural wine at Lost in a Forest, drinks at Lost in a Forest.

BREAKFAST

MID-MORNING

Patch Kitchen & Garden, in the former general store and post office of the pretty town of Stirling, works with local farmers and providores to create a seasonal menu of dialled-up breakfast classics.

On weekends, young families soak up spring sunshine in the courtyard and toddlers run riot between the cubby house, chook shed and veggie patch. patchkitchen.com.au

Work off breakfast on the trails criss-crossing the hills, ranging from thigh-burning ascents to ambles through farms and forest. The busy Waterfall Gully to Mt Lofty summit hike in Cleland Conservation Park is big with fitness fanatics.

For a quieter walk, try the Mt Lofty trail from Crafers or the meandering Crafers-Stirling loop. The waterfall hike in Belair National Park loops through native bushland. Keep an eye out for kangaroos and snoozing koalas. walkingsa.org.au

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PHOTOGRAPHY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

LUNCH

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Wine and pizza bar Lost in a Forest inhabits a 130-year-old church on the main street of pint-sized Uraidla. Pull up a blanket on the lawn for organic pizzas such as the ’shroom with foraged pine and porcini mushrooms and blue cheese, or the bánh mi with ciderbraised pork and crispy pickled veg, cooked on a wood-fired oven where the altar once stood. Wines favour the natural and local. Afterwards, pop into the renovated Uraidla Hotel for a pot of Hills’ craft beer. lostinaforest.com.au

9/08/2017 4:31 PM

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

New route!

Jetstar commences direct flights between Adelaide and Hobart from 14 November. Why not start planning your Tassie or South Australian trip now?

AFTERNOON

DINNER Named for ’80s destination restaurant Uraidla Aristologist, the Summertown Aristologist was a hotly anticipated addition to the Hills’ scene. The intimate cellar door and bistro offers a week-to-week menu that takes its cues from the kitchen garden, and lets vegetables star. Wine buffs should ask to see the basement cellar, where the focus is on minimal intervention drops curated by the winemaker co-owners. thesummertownaristologist. com

Wine buffs should ask to see the basement cellar

LATE NIGHT The grand, sandstone 1830s Crafers Hotel has recently been transformed into a sophisticated gastropub and hotel. The pride of the new venue is a 2000-strong wine room stocked by the in-house sommelier with an array of Old World wines and exciting local labels. Have a nightcap in a leather-studded armchair by the fire, before retreating upstairs to one of seven luxurious suites for a welldeserved night’s sleep. crafershotel.com.au

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Travel info

TOP TO BOTTOM: Ashton Hills cellar door, a dish from the Summertown Aristologist, a suite in the Crafers Hotel.

Jetstar has great low fares to Adelaide from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY SUMMERTOWN ARISTOLOGIST, ASHTON HILLS, THE CRAFERS HOTEL

30

There are more than 60 wineries dotted around the scenic Adelaide Hills.

The region’s peaks and microclimates deliver beautiful cool-climate wines, especially pinot noir – try some of the best at Ashton Hills’ welcoming cellar door. Or visit the striking Shaw + Smith for a flight of five wines (including the acclaimed M3 Chardonnay) matched with cheese, looking out over lawns and vines down to the dam.

If beer is more your thing, the Lobethal Bierhaus microbrewery has spent the past decade drawing city beer lovers to the Hills for tasting paddles in its large beer garden. Or visit Prancing Pony Brewshed beside a field of cows in Totness, and try the award-winning brews as you watch the team hard at work on the brewery floor. ashtonhills.com.au bierhaus.com.au prancingponybrewery.com.au

9/08/2017 4:31 PM

SBUD7

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With a free upgrade.* Rent an Economy (Group A) through to a Full Size (Group E) car with Budget in Australia and New Zealand for 2 or more consecutive days, and you’ll receive a free single upgrade.

Plus, earn Qantas Points^ on eligible rentals.

Make your way over to the Budget counter when you land and quote coupon number UPNZ048.

Offer valid at all Budget Australia and New Zealand locations on rentals commenced between the 1st and 30th September 2017.

*Cars and upgrades are subject to availability at time of rental. Minimum rental period of 2 consecutive days applies. Valid in Australia for a one car group upgrade from a Group A to Group B, Group B to Group C, Group C to Group D, Group D to Group E, Group E to Group P - Maximum upgrade to a Group P. Valid in New Zealand on car groups A, B, C, G, D, E, K, P, with a maximum upgrade to group H. No advance reservation required, walk ups welcome. Budget standard age, credit and driver requirements apply. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer, coupon or promotion and is not available on package tour or government rates. Subject to the terms and conditions of the Budget Rental Agreement at the time of rental. ^You must be a member of Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn and redeem Qantas Points. A joining fee may apply. Membership and the earning and redemption of Qantas Points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer Terms and Conditions. For more information about earning Qantas Points with Budget visit Qantas.com/cars.

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9/08/2017 7/18/17 5:51 4:31 PM PM

Experience I JETSTAR & SCRABBLE

Strewth! It’s Scrabble The world’s favourite word game has brought out a bonzer new edition, and they’re speaking our language

A

re you a fan of the Aussie salute? If you’ve ever thrown a tanty while hunting for the doovalacky, topped your snag with dead horse or taken a squizz at a bit of a spunk, we have the game for you. Scrabble has said hooroo to the Queen’s English and gone dinkum, deadset Aussie.

Fair dinkum!

A worldly word game Invented by out-of-work architect Alfred Mosher Butts in 1931 in New York State, US, it took nearly 20 years for Scrabble to catch on. But once it did, it moved faster than a possum up a gum tree, reaching Oz by 1952 (the year before the Poms got their hands on it).

Scrabble went from selling 2413 sets in ’49 to four million by ’53 – and has since sold more than 150 million games.

’ang on, why Aussie?

So how did a game loved by word wowsers get on board with the linguistic larrikinism of Straya?

Jacinta Whitehead, Senior Marketing Manager at Mattel (the makers of Scrabble) explains: “We at Mattel love all things Australian, especially our colourful and quirky

32-33_EXPERIENCE_SCRABBLE_2.indd 32

Give it a burl

colloquialisms. We wanted to pay homage to our localised lingo.”

Mattel did most of the hard yakka, but to finish off the lingo list they turned to Jetstar. After asking our customers to nominate their top Strine corkers, Jetstar heard from every man and his dog. Between the crikeys and the cobbers, servos

and sangas, there was just one word that Mattel hadn’t seen before – ‘mollydooker’, Australian for a left-handed person.

Join the club What do LL Cool J, Kylie Minogue and Queen Elizabeth II have in common? All are known to enjoy a game of Scrabble. Every day, around the world, roughly

WE ASKED THE BUDDE FAMILY TO GIVE AUSSIE SCRABBLE A TEST RUN Who played? Jay, 12, Miranda, 10, and their dad, Dallas, 44.

Was it a success? Yes, particularly with Dallas who learnt more Australianisms to take to the next pub visit.

The best Aussie word played? “Dinkum”.

Any cheating? Miranda was caught counting doubleword points instead of double-letter points on more than one occasion.

Any controversial words?

Dallas may have let Miranda spell “Shoez” with a ‘z’.

Who was the victor?

Miranda won convincingly.

(Although, by convincingly, they mean by cheating!).

Will the family be playing Aussie Scrabble again? Yep,

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY

32

Master AUSSIE your with the LINGO alltrue-blu new, Aussie S e crabble

10/08/2017 11:56 AM

r O w,

e

Experience I JETSTAR & SCRABBLE

SCRABBLE KNOW-HOW

30,000 games are started each hour. There are an estimated 4000 Scrabble clubs globally, and Straya has its own loyal mob. Some of these word wizards play for fun, others for glory. The highest Aussie score of all time belongs to Russell Honeybun, who racked up 764 points in a 2007 game. Carol Hudson holds the title for the biggest word score, after getting 302 for the word ‘craziest’ in 2012.

But will Aussie Scrabble make the purists madder than a cut snake? Adam Kretschmer, who helps bring together tinnies with triple word scores at Adelaide Pub Scrabble, thinks it’s just ace.

“We’d love to see more Aussie slang come into Scrabble,” he says. “It’ll be exo to play some bonzer games with some cluey sheilas and

Some of these word wizards play for fun, others for glory. dinkum blokes over some sangers and a coldie.”

Australian satirist and self-confessed Scrabble fan John Safran also reckons the idea is spiffy, despite having written editorials about his love of the Official Scrabble Players Dictionary. “I’m totally cool with it,” he says. “Ye olden days dictionaries chucked in heaps of casual words that have become ‘normal’ over time.”

Does this mean the rest of the world will catch on, and we’ll soon be seeing bunyips and bludgers on boards across the world?

Bloody oath.

Impress your friends with these fascinating Scrabble facts

53%

124

is the number of permissible two-letter words containing every letter in the alphabet

8x

of homes in Great Britain have a game

ROUND THE WORLD

150+

is the distance that would be covered if all the Scrabble tiles ever produced were placed end to end

MILLION

games have been sold in 121 countries around the world

33

Scrabble

1049

is the highest score for one game – achieved

by Philip Appleby from Lymington in 1989

‘lexiko’

is used all over the world as a method of teaching English

4x

MILLION is the number of games sold worldwide every year

was the original name for Scrabble

1 MILLION

is the estimated number of missing Scrabble tiles in the world

32-33_EXPERIENCE_SCRABBLE_2.indd 33

5

YEARS OLD

is the age of a boy who phoned Leicester police to complain his sister was cheating at Scrabble

10/08/2017 11:59 AM

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9/08/2017 4:35 PM

Experience I HEALTH

The perfect paddle When you take to the water in Sydney Harbour, expect to see far more than just the iconic sights

PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK DIBBEN

WORDS SOPHIE HULL

WE’RE MEETING at dawn – earlier than I think is reasonable. But as I push off into Sydney Harbour in my kayak, my crankiness starts to crumble. There’s a bank of white clouds on the horizon, their tips turning pink. The water is green-blue, topped with silver from the rising sun. Perhaps a pre-dawn wake-up was worth it.

Patrick Dibben from Natural Wanders Kayak Adventures launches into information on sights we pass: a wooden boat built in the ’30s, multimillion dollar houses, pockets of bush filled with colourful, screeching lorikeets. I’ve lived in Sydney for years, and I’m seeing familiar sights from a new perspective, as well as spotting things I’ve never noticed before.

Ferries chug past full of some of the world’s luckiest commuters, one of the many water-borne reasons why a guide is needed in this part of the harbour. I sneak another look at the magnificent Harbour Bridge, a few hundred metres away at most. We head towards it, wave hello to the Opera House and peer into the Prime Minister’s Kirribilli residence, passing the tiny island holding Fort

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Oh, what a morning!

35

Denison – formerly used to isolate convicts and now housing a stylish restaurant.

Heading towards Cremorne Point we enter a moment of calm, where the main movement visible is walkers on the popular shore-side track.

I’m on the before-work paddle series, but Patrick runs private tours seven days a week, as long as the weather is behaving, for beginners and pros alike. All tours depart from Lavender Bay on Sydney’s North Shore and venture through the harbour to Port Jackson.

Patrick says one of the benefits of kayaking is

FURTHER AFIELD You can’t beat harbour views.

But for a quieter paddle, try: PITTWATER Combine a paddle with a hike in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, an hour’s drive north of Sydney. Kayaks are available for hire from Paddlecraft. paddlecraft.com.au ROYAL NATIONAL PARK Float down the Hacking River, in one of the world’s oldest national parks with views of quintessential bush. Hire kayaks from Audley Boatshed. audleyboatshed.com BUNDEENA Bundeena Outdoor Adventures runs tours and lessons from Bundeena in southern Sydney.

If you’re a true adventurer, this is one of the few operators offering overnight kayak hire. bundeenakayaks.com.au

that you see things close up and at your own pace.

“You see things you don’t normally see. You might chat to someone in a yacht. We sometimes see penguins, sea eagles and seals. And you can land in so many little nooks and crannies [then] explore.”

Patrick believes that for a dose of inner-city nature, the harbour beats Sydney’s pockets of green hands down.

“It’s the biggest bit of open space in a busy city.

If you want to get away from things and have solitude, the water is the place to do it.” kayaksydney.com.au

9/08/2017 5:08 PM

Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

A H M

On Fiji time Massage treatments are a highlight of Fijian spas and a must-do for visitors WORDS NICOLA CONVILLE

LEILANI’S SPA

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Malolo Island Resort The Nourishing Island Wrap is FJD$170 for a 60-minute treatment. maloloisland.com

Just relax

TATADRA SPA Likuliku Massage treatments start from FJD$96 for 30 minutes. likulikulagoon.com

W Th ca m alm m on

Fijian people are very gifted at massage

arrive to alleviate any tiredness or jetlag and get you into holiday mode,” Etta says. “It’s also a nice way to finish your trip before you head home.”

Leilani’s Spa is a cosy, welcoming spot in a lush rainforest setting. Each of the three treatment areas are in rustic open-air bures – lying beneath rustling trees while having your cares massaged away is truly soothing. The treatment I opt for is the Nourishing Island Wrap, where a coconut body masque is gently but firmly applied.

Etta wraps me in towels to maximise absorption, then leaves me to drift off before massaging in the remaining lotion. My skin is left feeling supple and hydrated with a delicious coconut scent.

For a more luxurious

Bl Cu te in wo be

experience, Tatadra Spa at Likuliku Lagoon Resort has spacious treatment rooms, a relaxation area and stunning lagoon views. The Relax and Restore massage is the spa’s most popular treatment, a traditional deep-tissue massage that focuses on tension and recalibrates the body.

Nicola Conville was a guest of Ahura Resorts.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Fiji from Sydney.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY MALOLO RESORT, TATADRA SPA

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TRADITIONAL MASSAGE techniques are deeply rooted in Fijian culture, passed down from one generation to the next.

“Fijian people are very gifted at massage,” says Etta Divuratoga, manager at Leilani’s Spa at Malolo Resort in Fiji’s Mamanuca islands. “In every village there are people who know the skill and can teach it to others.” In Fiji, it’s common for children to receive massages from a young age, and it is also used to treat injuries.

Traditional Fijian massage is very therapeutic and therefore quite vigorous and firm – designed to promote relaxation and healing, improve blood circulation and aid lymphatic drainage.

Natural indigenous nut oils are frequently used in treatments, such as dilo, sikeci, macadamia and coconut, often blended with fragrant essential oils and floral extracts.

Spa treatments are a hugely popular drawcard for visitors. All the major resorts have top-notch in-house spas, and there are several boutique spas too, offering everything from traditional to aromatherapy, hot stone and warm-shell massages.

“It’s a good idea to get a massage as soon as you

Try it here

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Lucy_R

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking and asks what your secret is. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem.

What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill.

Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up.

New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established.

With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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In your consultation your practitioner will assess your health, perform the thyroid screening and then design an individualised program using specific nutritional supplementation, herbal medicines and medication (if needed), to improve all areas of your health. They use an integrative approach to get the results you need. If you are on medication they will work in with your G.P. The practitioners listed charge $167 for a consultation and are offering the thyroid screen for free which would normally cost you $140 on top of the consultation.

They have had extensive training and experience in treating and assessing thyroid function.

To receive your FREE eBook on “The 7 Secrets to Understanding Why Your Thyroid is Causing You to Gain Weight” visit, thelucyroseclinic.com.au

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Experience I SUITS YOU

Old soles There can be sartorial surprises for young and old in a second-hand shop WORDS PETER BARRETT

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Must buys

they were a perfect fit, in good, sparkly order, and only $4 you covered. There are more than 2400 of them around Australia. The magic resides in the fact that you never know what you’ll find because the stock changes regularly. Victorian merchandise manager

for Vinnies, Liz Randle, says men tend to wear out most of their clothes but winter coats, jackets and knitwear are often in good condition. Her tips? “Shop regularly and shop across a few stores in your area.”

HATS It’s still possible to find real bargains if you’re into the gumshoe detective look. Size is the problem.

Our heads seem to have expanded since the 1950s.

WINTER COATS Men generally wear the heck out of their clothes, but op-shop winter coats are usually in good nick and made from quality materials.

TIES I don’t know about you but surely variety is the key. Second-hand stores are rife with characterful cravats.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

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MAGIC HAPPENS. Not on the back of a bumper bar but in op shops. I know this because it happened to me the other day. My three-year-old had been forcefully putting his (long-running) case for a pair of sparkly shoes – the kind that light up when you walk – when we were, by chance, outside a Salvos on Smith Street, in Melbourne’s Collingwood.

“All right,” I said.

“Let’s go take a look.”

I reasoned the various op-shop distractions would take his mind off his disappointment when there, right in the kids’ section, we spotted our quarry. Not only that, they were a perfect fit, in good, sparkly order, and only $4.

As we were leaving I spied a stylish, black felt hat behind the counter.

I’d been keen on the idea of acquiring one for ages but good hats are expensive, so I showed restraint. Boom. A good fitting, brand new Akubra, for $15. We left the store looking sharp (and flashing blue and purple) on a post-opshopping high.

Whether you like the idea of recycling clothes, supporting good works or hunting bargains, charity op shops have

9/08/2017 4:36 PM

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9/08/2017 4:36 PM

Experience I RECIPE

That’s my jam It’s Royal Show season and jam-makers and bakers around Australia are donning aprons and rolling up sleeves to compete for a coveted prize. Veteran competitor Clem Bastow shares her tips for success

g

rowing up in a sports-allergic family and with little to no interest in any form of contest beyond the yearly Oscars viewing party, I lacked the killer instinct that made my classmates champion sprinters, successful ballroom dancers or unyielding mathletes.

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That all changed when, at the Royal Melbourne Show one year, I discovered that the jars of jam my family and I admired weren’t just there as decoration, but were the fruits of a passionately fought contest designed to find out just whose seed distribution, set and flavour was the best in the state. Suddenly, at the

age of 25, the competitive spirit hit, and I was consumed by a powerful desire to make the best jam I could.

I’d read everything that Australian cooking legend Margaret Fulton had written on the topic and, more importantly, as a fan of the classic scones and jam and cream, I knew the jam varieties that made

for the best afternoon tea.

After a few false starts (don’t mention the banana and kiwifruit jam disaster...) it turned out I had a knack for jammaking, and I have been competing ever since – with the blue ribbons to show for it.

My worries about being the only ‘young person’ competing were

PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN GOLJA

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Experience I RECIPE

unfounded. In fact more and more people of all ages seem to be discovering how much fun it is to try their hand at competitive cookery and crafts.

“I used to make jam most summers and my friends have always told me I should sell my preserves and cakes.

After looking into the

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show competitions I first entered two novice categories in 2011,” my friend Rhiannon, 38, tells me. “I submitted a raspberry and rhubarb jam that came third, and decorated cupcakes that came second.” She’s since become a committed competitor.

Agricultural shows nationwide are now a vibrant mix of generations and genders. There are even show “dynasties”, where mantles for shortbread, sponge cakes or coconut ice have been taken up by the children and grandchildren of former winners.

The more seasoned competitors welcome the youthful (relatively – I’m now 35) competition, and are not averse to sharing their secrets. One multiple-trophy winner quietly told me the trick to a great chutney at last year’s show, and I wandered out of the hall feeling like a Luke Skywalker who had finally found her Yoda.

And I’m pretty sure it was Yoda who said: “Warm the sugar in the oven before the jam you make, yesss...”

Check out the cooking and craft competitions at the Royal Adelaide Show, 1-10 September; Royal Perth Show, 23-30 September; Royal Melbourne Show, 23 September to 3 October; and Royal Hobart Show, 25-28 October.

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INGREDIENTS

Four-fruits jam MAKES 3 SMALL JARS METHOD Sterilise your jars and lids by washing them with lots of hot, soapy water, and then boiling them for 10 minutes. Carefully dry the lids, and then put the jars in a low oven (around 100°C) to keep them warm. Place the sugar in a stainless steel bowl then place it in the oven with the jars. Roughly chop any larger fruit (especially strawberries) and then add to a heavybottomed saucepan with the lemon juice. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat and add the warmed sugar. Bring back to the boil, stirring often, and cook until the jam coats the

• 500g of any combination of berries such as strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries • 500g white sugar • Juice of one lemon

back of your wooden spoon (you can test if it’s ready to set by putting a teaspoon of the jam on a plate that’s been chilled in the freezer; it’s ready if the jam “wrinkles” when you push your finger through it). Take the jam off the heat, let it settle for a few minutes, remove any ‘scum’ with a spoon, then ladle the jam into the warmed jars. Put the lids on the jam tightly and store out of direct sunlight. Enjoy!

11/08/2017 3:24 PM

Experience I WORK & PLAY

Screen Meet three people working behind the scenes in Australian and New Zealand film and TV WORDS PETER BARRETT

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ustralia’s $12.9 billion film and TV industry has its challenges, with tech innovations and changing media habits (streaming at home, anyone?) not least among them.

Nevertheless, homegrown moving picture makers continue to impress at blockbuster and indie levels. Meanwhile, New Zealand’s $3.1 billion film industry is healthy too, buoyed by Peter Jackson’s post-production facilities and government financial incentives. Critical to all that success though, is a cast of thousands working behind the scenes.

Ra Vincent, set decorator, art director and production designer for film Ra Vincent got his first taste for show business working for his sculptor father Bodhi Vincent on commercials and TV programs on New Zealand’s lower North Island. His big break came in the form of a leadinghand role to the sculpting supervisor on Peter Jackson’s first Lord Of The Rings, where he helped run a workshop floor of up to 70 sculptors and

I love the (film) medium and I love to participate in the storytelling fabricators. They made everything from detailed Rivendell statues to rocks, trees, cliff faces, buildings and bricks. “Basically, anything you can’t source for real and put into a sound stage, we would build out of polystyrene, foam, timber and plaster,” he says. With each Peter Jackson film, Ra worked his way up through the art-department ranks. In 2013 he was nominated for an Oscar as set decorator for his work on The

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Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey. Today, he roams the world with his film make-up designer wife and two daughters, imagining worlds and concept art for films such as Thor: Ragnarok, and Peter Jackson’s steampunk adventure Mortal Engines. “I love the (film) medium and I love to participate in the storytelling … it all comes down to a visual interpretation of the story,” Ra says.

Polly Staniford, Angie Fielder and Cecilia Ritchie, producers with Aquarius Films Run by three women, this Sydney production house began 10 years ago with South-East Asian holiday drama Wish You Were Here (2012). Last year its feature Lion received no less than six Oscar nominations and the recently released (and genuinely creepy) Berlin Syndrome has the critics impressed, too.

It all began when Polly Staniford and Angie Fielder were working at Inside Film and David

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

LEFT TO RIGHT. A sketch by Ra Vincent (inset), a still from Berlin Syndrome by Aquarius Films (team inset), ABC series Redesign My Brain with a soundtrack by Michael Allen (inset).

Michôd approached them to produce a (later award-winning) short film together, Crossbow.

Then they made another – Netherland Dwarf.

“Angie and I figured we worked well together and it was nice having a partner and not having to carry the whole load,” Polly says. “And so we decided to start a more official partnership.”

Producer Cecilia Ritchie joined them two years ago and now the company employs a full-time writer, an associate producer and two interns.

They currently have

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Michael Allen, soundtrack composer

seven feature films in development and their TV comedy series The Other Guy was released on Stan in August. “I’m really passionate about female-driven stories and showing diversity on screen – telling stories about people of colour, people with disabilities, the LGBTQ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer) community – all kinds of marginalised groups,” Polly says.

It was the year 2000, and Things Of Stone And Wood bass player Michael Allen realised he’d had enough of life on the road. But how to settle down without giving up his passion for music? First came a radio jingle for a tree-stump removal company. When he realised films and docos might be more fun he began approaching people in the industry. “Instead of trying to contact Spielberg, I went to the VCA (Victorian College of the Arts) film school and volunteered to write music

for graduating students’ films,” he says. The move paid off. Michael has scored films including thriller Vanished (2011) and Last Dance (2012), video games including Rise of the Guardians and The Croods and TV soundtracks, such as Redesign My Brain (20132015), Todd Sampson’s popular ABC series.

Michael now works from a Melbourne home studio, striking a balance between family life and doing what he loves most – writing music. “There’s something wonderful you get when you’re writing to-picture: instant feedback. Let’s say you’re working on an emotional scene – what you’re doing is you’re making it better, making it more emotional. And that feels incredible.”

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9/08/2017 4:39 PM

Designed for families, memories for life

Barefoot luxury, nature all around BYRON BAY BOOK NOW - elementsofbyron.com.au

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9/08/2017 4:40 PM

Brisbane getaway

Discover the beautiful islands of Moreton Bay, Brisbane’s favourite weekend getaway.

Read more about three of the Bay’s islands from page 83.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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NEW ZEALAND I TOHOKU I SYDNEY I AND MORE

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PHOTOGRAPHY © PHOTO BY JOEL SARTORE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO ARK - NATGEOPHOTOARK.ORG

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Platypus, Healesville Sanctuary “I was inspired to start photographing animals because so many truly had no voice of their own in terms of conservation.” – Joel Sartore

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AUSTRALIA I PHOTO ARK

Call of the wild

For the National Geographic Photo Ark, photographer Joel Sartore turned his lens on Australia’s critters

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11/08/2017 3:25 PM

PHOTOGRAPHY © PHOTO BY JOEL SARTORE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO ARK - NATGEOPHOTOARK.ORG

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Short-nose echidna, Melbourne Zoo LEFT: Kangaroo Island Kangaroo, Healesville Sanctuary “I believe it’s important to catalogue these creatures because so many are at risk of extinction each year. Many could be lost before anyone ever documents them.”

PHOTOGRAPHY © PHOTO BY JOEL SARTORE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO ARK - NATGEOPHOTOARK.ORG

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Imi, quiam delectu restior porpos exceper untempo ribusci cusam sequiae erposto blaccabore photography JASON HOSKING

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PHOTOGRAPHY © PHOTO BY JOEL SARTORE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO ARK - NATGEOPHOTOARK.ORG

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Mountain Pygmy-possum, Healesville Sanctuary LEFT: Hairy-nosed wombat, Melbourne Zoo “I figured that eye contact with each animal, with zero distractions, may be the best way to win hearts and get folks to care. The black and white backgrounds level the playing field as well – in these photos with no size comparisons, a mouse is every bit as big and impressive as an elephant.”

PHOTOGRAPHY © PHOTO BY JOEL SARTORE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO ARK - NATGEOPHOTOARK.ORG

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Explore I AUSTRALIA

Nature’s Noah Joel Sartore is on a mission to photograph every creature in our care, great and small WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

I

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: An Eastern Barred Bandicoot, Barking Owl, Tasmanian Devil.

INSET: Joel Sartore at work.

About the photo ark

In his photos, we see them like never before countries. All creatures are shot against a black or white background, necessitating some inventive temporary studios. Joel met his match in a Manhattan zoo when he crafted a white paper set for a resident chimp. “The shoot lasted less than three seconds,” he remembers. The chimp came, it saw, and it tore.

While Joel has captured the big-ticket animals, perhaps his most moving images are of the ones that everyone forgets. In his photos, we see them

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like never before; the vivid patterns on a quartet of critically endangered Southern Corroboree frogs, or the plumage of the critically endangered Helmeted Honeyeater.

The ark comes at a vital time, creating a record for posterity, but also reminding us that it’s not too late for the real thing.

“People don’t think this issue affects them, but it will in a major way in the not too distant future,” Joel says. “When we save these other species, we’re actually saving ourselves.

There’s still time to save the Earth, but we must act now.”

National Geographic Photo Ark is at Melbourne Zoo until 1 October. zoo.org.au

At the time of writing, the National Geographic Photo Ark contains 24,128 images of 6531 species. Joel estimates the completed ark will contain 12,000 species, a project that will take him roughly another 15 years. To learn more or contribute to Joel’s work, see natgeophotoark.org

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY © PHOTO BY JOEL SARTORE / NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTO ARK, NATGEOPHOTOARK.ORG

52

n one of Joel Sartore’s early images from the National Geographic Photo Ark, a slightly mothballed rabbit peers myopically at the camera.

This was Bryn, one of only two Columbia Basin pygmy rabbits left in the world. If not for this surprisingly poignant photo, all memory of this diminutive species may have been lost when Bryn and the other elderly female died months later.

Bryn is one of more than 6000 species shot by famous US wildlife photographer Joel. No matter how many he meets, each leave their mark. “They’re all like children to me because I’m the only voice most will ever have,” he says.

For 25 years, Joel has been on a quest to photograph every species in captivity.

“The Photo Ark gives them the chance to be seen, and have their stories told, while there’s time to save them and their habitats,” Joel says.

More than 50 images from the ark are currently on display at Melbourne Zoo, including many taken at Melbourne Zoo and Healesville Sanctuary.

For the ark, Joel has visited more than 250 zoos, aquariums and sanctuaries in 40

11/08/2017 3:25 PM

PHOTO EXHIBITION MELBOURNE ZOO 1 J U LY – 1 O C T O B E R Come face to face with the animals of the Photo Ark, featuring beautiful, large-format images taken by Nat Geo photographer Joel Sartore. zoo.org.au/photoark

Principal Donor

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Major Partners

9/08/2017 4:42 PM

Explore I NEW ZEALAND

AUCKLAND

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CHRISTCHURCH

QUEENSTOWN DUNEDIN

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Walk the line

Tramping (hiking) is a New Zealand national pastime, with the country’s nine Great Walks among some of the world’s best. But there's one walk to rule them all. The 3000km-long Te Araroa Trail, officially opened in 2011, stretches from Cape Reinga at the tip of the North Island to Bluff at the bottom of the South Island. We asked five intrepid hikers tackling sections of the trail to report back on the walk of a lifetime.

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Explore I NEW ZEALAND

ROAR OF THE WILD

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

One step at a time

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The walk Ninety Mile Beach, from Cape Reinga to the Hukatere Campground, North Island Length Approximately 70km over three days and nights Terrain Coastal We’re standing on the clifftop track to Te Werahi Beach. Before us, an empty coastline sweeps around to outlying Cape Maria Van Diemen and Motuopao Island. This is the western tip of the tail of Ma¯ ui’s fish in Ma¯ ori mythology, otherwise known as the North Island.

My mate ‘Brooksy’ initiates our Ninety Mile Beach walk. He is recovering from surgery and rebuilding his fitness one step at a time. Three days on these shoreline plains will see him marching like a trooper.

The absurdities of city life quickly give way to the lifeaffirming sounds of bird-song and the constant noise of the ocean. Dunes tower and crumble on our left, with a miscellany of flotsam, jetsam and distant driftwood in their shadows.

Camping in the dunes, the midnight surf thunders. On our third morning at 'The Bluff’, we

are woken by the startled snorts of a herd of wild horses.

The panorama from the summit of the ancient Pa¯ (settlement) site at Hukatere puts our efforts into perspective.

Brooksy is happy. Between the choir of cicadas, I am sure I hear his mind already whirring with ideas for our next Te Araroa adventure.

Highlight Camping out under a blood moon at Twilight Beach where I wake from a dream about sleeping under a streetlight.

Lowlight Traffic! At low tide stay dune-side of beach drivers trying to beat the incoming tide.

Best tip In summer carry plenty of drinking water. For fresh seafood, bring a line – there is no shortage. Choose running shoes over hiking boots.

Transport to the start of Te Araroa at Cape Reinga can be arranged with tour companies in Kaitaia or Paihia.

Next tramp Brooksy has his eye on the Russell to Tutukaka section in Northland next.

- JASON BURGESS

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Explore I NEW ZEALAND

FOREST FLING

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The perfect picnic spot!

The lush green forest of the Hunua Ranges.

INSET: Hunua Falls.

THE PERFECT DAY

The walk Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Tongariro National Park, North Island How long One day Terrain Mountainous, across a volcanic plateau My siblings and I all live overseas, and we were looking for something fun to do with my dad while home in New Zealand for Christmas. So we picked Tongariro, one of the world’s top-ranked day hikes.

I had done very little trekking, but as a healthy 20-something, the Tongariro Crossing was manageable for me, as it was for my late-50s dad.

The first hour of the trail is very flat. Then comes the Devil’s Staircase, a steep section with a lot of loose volcanic scree. This part of the walk was really hot and tiring, but worth it for the views at the top.

Mount Ngauruhoe lies to one side (if you're quick you can ascend this). Once there, you’re essentially walking through a volcanic moonscape of craters, barren yet colourful rocks,

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Tongariro National Park. BELOW: Tongariro’s famous Blue Lake.

and striking sulphurous lakes.

The weather was perfect, and we had a clear panorama of stunning views.

After a picnic lunch,we began the long descent. The final section of the walk is through damp, dark, typically

Kiwi forest, adding yet more variety to this stunning day trip.

Highlight The turquoise lakes.

Best tip I had perfect weather, but be prepared for it to turn at any time.

Next tramp Northland.

- ELEN TURNER

¯ PHOTOGRAPHY TRAVIS WIENS / FLICKR, NEIL HUNT / FLICKR, PAUL ABBITT, DESTINATION LAKE TAUPO

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The walk Hunua Ranges, near Auckland, North Island How long One day Terrain Undulating forest The Hunua Ranges were as much a part of my Auckland childhood as watching cartoons and having sleepovers. When I was too young to hike, my parents and I took the 40-minute drive from suburbia to get closer to nature and eat lunch by the thundering Hunua Falls. When I got older, we walked among flitting fantails, crossed bubbling streams and breathed in the grand, sweeping panoramas of lush New Zealand bush.

More recently, I was part of a group of 20-something outdoors-loving friends who, bored of the city, fled in the early morning to the ranges to tackle the undulating, sometimes overgrown and muddy tracks. Silver ferns brushed against our legs as we tried not to trip over tree roots or get slapped in the face with hanging vines. We craned our faces up at the towering Kauri trees, cursed the countless uphill climbs and hoped for the best when the only indication of a track was somebody else’s footprints.

We came to the end of our track dirty and sweaty, but absolutely invigorated. We ate sour strawberries, squashed bananas and sticky muesli bars under the glowing afternoon sun before clambering through the bush again, back to the car.

Highlight The views, and realising how completely surrounded by nature you are, even though you’re living in New Zealand’s biggest city.

Lowlight The many, very steep hills.

Best tip Avoid public holidays and weekends as it can get crowded.

Next tramp Arthur’s Pass.

- TAO LIN

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The walk Rakaia River to Lake Tekapo, Canterbury High Country, mid South Island How long Seven days hiking (plus two sitting out snow) Terrain High alpine mountains and valleys I have walked the entire Te Araroa Trail, but this section is particularly memorable.

After saying goodbye to a few long-term hiking buddies, I ventured forth alone to test the navigation and survival skills I felt sure I must have accumulated over the previous months. Then I promptly got lost and caught in a sudden snowstorm (in summer). Losing yourself is not actually hard to do here. Much of this section has no ground trail to follow and only an occasional marker pole for reassurance. I faced around 60 river crossings, barren alpine plains, blustery saddles, headhigh tussock, a crossing of the

IN THE KNOW

The walk The Waiau Pass, St Arnaud to Lewis Pass, South Island How long Seven days Terrain Mountain, river and farmland I adore overlooked and underused hiking areas, and Nelson Lakes National Park is just that. On an island that contains hiking rock stars such as the Fiordland and Abel Tasman national parks, Nelson Lakes remains strangely anonymous. And yet with alpine peaks rising out of perfect, glacially carved valleys, it’s as dramatic and beautiful as anywhere I’ve seen in New Zealand.

Te Araroa spears south through the park, and in a single week we walked around 10 per cent of the length of the South Island. The route was superb, stepping up to its high point on Waiau Pass through a series of barren passes and lakes, with camps each night beside rivers and gin-clear lakes, where keas (the world’s only alpine parrot) would watch

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mischievously over camp.

I came with Christchurch friends, and our thighs were soon complaining about our lack of preparation as the trail continually climbed and fell through the steep mountainous terrain.

With weary legs we stayed a day at Blue Lake, one of the most beautiful camp spots of my life, before beginning the final climb past Lake Constance and up slippery, rubbly slopes to Waiau Pass, leaving the national park for our finish through the Waiau Valley.

Highlight Emerging from steep scree slopes onto Waiau Pass, a barren notch in a bleak, muscular line of mountains.

Lowlight Sandflies – nature’s way of declaring that no place can be perfect.

Best tip Train up – there are 1000m ascents and descents along this route.

Next tramp Stewart Island (30km south of the South Island) calls to me.

- ANDREW BAIN

4km-wide braided Rangitata River, and I got holed up in a hut in the snow for two days. But when the sunshine returned I was treated to some of the most spectacular views of the entire trail from atop Stag Saddle, Te Araroa’s highest point at 1925m. Hiking a ridgeline with views to Mt Aspiring and the vast blue Lake Tekapo was a great reward for the week’s challenges.

On a journey like this you get most of your fitness on the trail, but strength training for four months prior helped my body face the rigours ahead.

Highlight Cresting Stag Saddle with endless snowcapped mountain views.

Lowlight Getting caught in a snowstorm. Truly painful.

Best tip Never underestimate New Zealand’s rugged terrain and changeable weather.

Next tramp Bibbulmum Track – 1000km in Western Australia from Perth to Albany.

- LAURA WATERS

On top of the world!

Exploring Mt Aspiring’s Rob Roy Glacier. ABOVE: Lake Constance in Nelson Lakes National Park. LEFT: The stunning peaks of Mt Aspiring.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to New Zealand from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW PURDAM / FLICKR, JULIAN APSE / TOURISM NEW ZEALAND, GETTY IMAGES

SNOWED IN

16/08/2017 10:55 AM

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Explore I NEW ZEALAND

AUCKLAND NORTH ISL AND

Lake Taupo¯

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PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION GREAT LAKE TAUPO

Totally Taupo¯

4:05 pm

New Zealand’s largest lake is an aquamarine playground fringed by stunning scenery and steeped in Māori heritage

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WORDS LARISSA DUBECKI

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Explore I NEW ZEALAND

M

idway between Auckland and Wellington, the Māori call Taupō the North Island’s “beating heart”, and it’s easy to see why. With all eyes centred on the huge lake of exquisite lazuline beauty, the multitude of on-water activities is hard to beat. But the area is also rich with geothermal pools, hiking and cycling tracks, and stunning scenery. In summer, loll about in the water while gazing at the permanently snow-capped peaks of Mount Ruapehu, or boost your adrenaline levels with a highoctane jetboat ride or bungy jump.

Yes, Taupō has it all.

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The first thing you notice about Lake Taupō is its mesmerising colour. The second is the size.

At 616 sq km, it’s New Zealand’s largest lake, created by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. In the modern age it has become a playground of immense proportions. Trout fishing is one of the lake’s biggest lures (pardon the pun) with anglers of all stripes throwing in a line. Simon Jolly, director of Chris Jolly Outdoors, explains that the only way you’ll eat trout in New Zealand is by catching it yourself. “It’s illegal to sell – although if you’re lucky someone will give you one.” The family-run company runs guided fly-fishing tours and it’s popular to incorporate a day of fishing with on-water sightseeing.

Meet the locals The rich Māori culture is an indelible part of any Taupō visit, starting with the imposing cliff wall carvings in the western part of the lake at Mine Bay, created in the 1970s by traditional artist Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell of his

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ancestor Ngatoroirangi. Accessible only by water, a number of scenic cruise operators will take you for a close-up, but the best way to see the 14m carving is by taking a kayak tour from Acacia Bay. Paddle power is a memorable way to experience the native bushland, towering cliffs and quiet inlets.

At the Māori-owned Wairakei Terraces you can bathe by day in the milky, silica-rich natural hot springs and by night partake in a Māori cultural experience including dinner prepared in a hangi – a traditional underground oven – along with traditional dance, storytelling, and the famous haka.

Partake in a Māori cultural experience including dinner prepared in a hangi – a traditional underground oven

¯ PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION GREAT LAKE TAUPO

Dip your toes

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Explore I NEW ZEALAND

Keep on paddling

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Visiting the Mine Bay carvings by kayak, Craters of the Moon, jetboating at the base of Huka Falls, Otumuheke Stream at Spa Park.

Top spots New Zealand’s most visited natural attraction, Huka Falls thunder down just north from Lake Taupō, where the broad Waikato River suddenly narrows into a shallow ravine. Located a few minutes’ drive from Taupō, the best spot for photos is from a footbridge directly above the falls with a stunning bird’s-eye view of the roiling pool, while surrounding walking tracks can take anywhere from five minutes to two hours.

Six kilometres upstream the river performs another mesmerising feat at Aratiatia Rapids, which fill dramatically several times

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a day when the dam gates are opened – best viewed from one of the lookouts on the high rock bluffs. Just a few kilometres further away you’ll find the start of the evocatively named Craters of the Moon. Part of the Wairakei geothermal field, the attraction features a track wending its way through an other-worldy landscape of steaming vents and bubbling craters. The main 45-minute loop is suitable for all ages and fitness levels, while power-hounds can add a 20-minute stepped section to a magnificent lookout.

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Take a dip All the geothermal activity in the area creates one of its finest drawcards – the hot springs in which you can soak away your cares (and any aches and pains from all the adventure activities). For a completely natural experience, try the Otumuheke Stream at Taupō’s free Spa Park, around a 25-minute walk from the town centre. Park yourself under a waterfall for a natural massage and splash about in the naturally warmed pools that flow into the Waikato River. With children in tow, the best option is the Taupo DeBretts Water Park, with its warm water playground and giant dragon waterslide. Otherwise, just look out for pockets of steam along the lakefront and jump right in.

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Explore I NEW ZEALAND

Taking the plunge with Taupo¯ Bungy. BELOW: ‘The Squeeze’ off the Waikato River.

3 must-do day trips

1 Hold on tight

MOUNT RUAPEHU Just under an hour’s drive south of Lake Taupo¯ , Mount Ruapehu is a skiing playground, but even in the summer months the mountain has plenty of attractions up its sleeve.

These include volcanic short walks (some taking in sights from The Lord of the Rings), scenic chairlift rides and New Zealand’s highest café.

2

ROTORUA Bubbling mud pools, shooting geysers and natural hot springs: the town and surrounds of Rotorua are a geothermal wonderland. Sitting on the Pacific Rim of Fire, on its namesake lake about 70 minutes’ drive north of Taupo¯ , the town is famous for its 30-metre tall Pohutu Geyser, which erupts many times a day. Rich in Ma¯ ori culture, Rotorua is also home to Te Puia, the Ma¯ ori Arts and Crafts Institute.

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Getting on the water is downright exciting with a jetboat ride around the lake and its tributaries. A number of jetboat and kayak operators offer a ride up the Waikato River past Tutukau Gorge to a section known as ‘the Squeeze’ thanks to adventurers having to squeeze through narrow rock walls to a geothermally heated waterfall.

Or take a leap of faith with that famous New Zealand invention, the bungy jump. The country’s highest water-touch jump, Taupo Bungy features a 47-metre drop in which you can choose to stay dry, touch your fingertips, or fully submerge yourself in the waters of the Waikato River. “We’ve had almost 400,000 jumpers from all over the world jump since beginning operations in 1991,” says Taupo Bungy’s Sonya Warne. “It’s usually said to be the most exciting day of their itinerary.”

Eat, sleep, repeat Don’t despair if the trout haven’t been biting: there is a number of good eating options in the Taupō township where you don’t have to catch your own food.

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Industrial chic meets country charm at soul-food café the Storehouse, while Little Mint, tucked in an arcade in the Taupō CBD (the term is used loosely) and serving Allpress coffee, is a bijou gem. For smart European food, The Bistro is the region’s best pick, while Vine combines a Mediterranean-leaning menu with a lively après-dinner vibe in the cocktail lounge.

Putting head to pillow, good options include Sacred Waters apartments on the lakefront, and the self-contained The Point Villas in the Whakamoenga Point estate.

For those with pockets as deep as the lake, Huka Lodge, 300 metres upstream from Huka Falls, has often been dubbed New Zealand’s best hotel.

3

TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING Often cited as the best oneday climb in New Zealand, this 19km one-way hike cuts between the summits of Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe and requires a decent level of fitness.

But it’s worth training for the incredible volcanic landscape (and you can arrange for a shuttle bus to take you home). See page 56 for more details.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Auckland and extensive car hire options.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

¯ PHOTOGRAPHY TAUPO BUNGY, DESTINATION GREAT LAKE TAUPO

Adrenaline seekers, start your engines

9/08/2017 4:44 PM

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Explore I NZ ADVENTURE

Choose your own adventure

I want a relaxing activity

New Zealand is the ultimate destination for intrepid travellers. Whether you’re into water sports, mountain biking, kayaking or something more extreme, you’ll have a chance to try it all in the Land of the Long White Cloud. Follow the arrows to find your perfect adventure...

WORDS SASHA GONZALES ILLUSTRATION STUART HOLMES

I love the water

YES

NO 66

I want to escape the city

I like being in control NO

YES

NO

YES

CRUISING

KAYAKING

CYCLING

MOUNTAIN BIKING

Set sail on New Zealand’s pristine waters, it’s one of the best ways to watch the sun set and observe marine creatures at close quarters. Join Barefoot Sailing Adventures’ day cruise to explore the stunning Bay Of Islands on a 33ft catamaran, or take the sundowner cruise for the perfect end to the day. barefootsailing.co.nz

Hop into a kayak for a picturesque paddle – it makes for a great upper-body workout and lets you see the sights at your own pace. Go Orange runs kayak tours on the ruggedly beautiful Milford and Doubtful Sounds. For a real adventure, try the Doubtful Sound overnight kayak and camp trip. goorangekayaks.co.nz

We can’t think of a more fun way to explore New Zealand’s major cities and towns than on two wheels. Auckland is becoming a seriously friendly place for cyclists with paved, dedicated paths around the city and its scenic surrounds. Pick up Auckland Transport’s Great Ride Passports and get going. at.govt.nz/greatrides

Get on your bike and go off road. New Zealand boasts some rugged but breathtakingly beautiful terrain. From epic mountain climbs to winding paths through old-growth forest, the 2,500km network of Great Rides shows off the Land of the Long White Cloud from all its best angles. nzcycletrail.com

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Explore I NZ ADVENTURE

I don’t mind a challenge

I need something extreme

I’m good with heights

I prefer group activities

YES

YES 67

NO

I want to experience snow YES

I’m okay with confined spaces NO

NO

YES

HELISKIING

BUNGY

WHITE WATER

CAVING

Make your way up to alpine peaks by helicopter and then put your skiing skills to the test.

NZ has some pretty amazing ski fields and glaciers that you can claim as your own. The experienced team at Harris Mountains Heli-Ski can whisk you to hundreds of remote slopes on 11 mountain ranges. heliskinz.com

Leave your fears behind as you prepare to leap off a ledge – while attached to a bungy cord, of course. This activity will literally leave you hanging, in a good way. Go back to where it all began at Kawarau Bridge near Queenstown, where the world’s first commercial bungy was set up in 1988. bungy.co.nz

If you love being on the water as much as you love being in it, you’ll definitely enjoy whitewater rafting. Push off into the beautiful Kaituna River to plunge off the world’s highest commercially rafted waterfall, the 7m high Tutea Falls, and tackle 14 white-knuckle rapids on your way downstream. kaitunacascades.co.nz

This strenuous sport sees you climb, crawl and walk through intricate, often cramped cave networks – not for the fainthearted. Abseil into the famous Waitomo Caves with Waitomo Adventures’ Lost World Epic, and you’ll spend the next seven hours scrambling out through a surreal subterranean world. waitomo.co.nz

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Explore I SYDNEY SHOPPING GUIDE

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A SHOPAHOLIC’S DREAM

FROM SUBURBAN PRECINCTS TO HISTORIC CITY ARCADES, THE HARBOUR CITY’S RETAIL SCENE IS DIVERSE AND DYNAMIC WORDS NATASHA DRAGUN

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Explore I SYDNEY SHOPPING GUIDE

EASTERN EXPOSURE The long, leafy streets and broad boulevards of Sydney’s eastern suburbs are a natural home for independent boutiques. Inner city areas such as Surry Hills and Paddington showcase the best of homegrown fashion and offer plenty of places to refuel.

OXFORD STREET, PADDINGTON This long shopping strip is a great place to gain an appreciation for local clothing brands. You’ll find outlets from Sass & Bide, known for luxe statement pieces; Alice McCall, where feminine frocks come with lace and hand embroidery; and Hansen & Gretel, where clothes and accessories are inspired by style classics. For high-end homegrown fashion in one location, head to The Intersection. Parlour X is one of the most beautiful stores in the neighbourhood, recently expanding into historic St John’s Church. Its ready-towear pieces are by Comme Des Garcons, Stella McCartney and Isabel Marant, with the domestic charge led by Ellery and Romance Was Born. Oxford Street’s Berkelouw Books is a Sydney institution, popular for its huge range of new, second-hand and rare books.

It’s open late and you can peek at your purchases in the store’s atmospheric café-cum-wine bar.

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Lucy Folk at Playa, Bow + Arrow, The Record Store, The Standard Store, Westfield Sydney, Carriageworks Farmers Market, The Barber Shop.

NEW SOUTH WALES Sydney

CROWN STREET, SURRY HILLS You could spend all day on Crown Street, alternating between bijou boutiques, cool cafés and an eclectic range of restaurants. Lovers of all things print will want to make a beeline for Paper2, home to reams of gilded wrapping paper, piles of colourful ribbons, quirky gift cards and notebooks.

A few doors down, Mrs Red and Sons is all about collectables, from vintage tin toys and Japanese ceramics to coral and freshwater pearl brooches.

Beaded and tasselled Franck Herval earrings star at Pure Magik, alongside fashion from Australia and New Zealand.

Visit Collector Store with a purpose, otherwise you’re likely to leave with an empty wallet – just try to resist the exquisite homewares, accessories and hard-to-find skincare products.

Crown Street is also known for its stores touting upcycled, recycled and pre-loved clothing and furniture. Don’t miss The Record Store for vinyl, U-Turn Recycled Fashion for vintage designer clothing, and Grandma Takes a Trip for high-end dresses and shoes.

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PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO, JULS IBANEZ

WILLIAM STREET, PADDINGTON

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Beautiful boutiques and galleries are opening here apace, amid grand terrace houses. Go to Di Nuovo for recycled fashion and accessories, Poepke for a carefully curated collection of colourful clothes, Banjo & Matilda for covetable cashmere and Neil Grigg Millinery for out-of-this-world fascinators, headpieces and hats.

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Go full grommit

Explore I SYDNEY SHOPPING GUIDE

Sydney’s beachside suburbs are brimming with the latest styles north and south of the harbour.

BONDI BEACH

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You’ll find some of Sydney’s most popular boutiques just steps from one of the world’s most famous beaches. Bondi institution Tuchuzy showcases fashion brands, from local designers such as Dion Lee and Bassike to internationals including Missoni, Alexander Wang and Acne Studios. The sales here are epic. Newcomer Playa by Lucy Folk has an interior design that it is as playful as Folk’s jewellery creations – pizza-shaped earrings, anyone? There’s also swimwear by Lisa Marie Fernandez and straw hats by Benoît Missolin so you can step straight from the store to the sand. For serious surfers, Sunburnt Mess sells state-ofthe-art (and custom-made) boards.

MANLY BEACH Bow + Arrow, a concept store that merges art, curios and clothing, is known for its one-off creations from design houses such as Simon Miller, Lacausa and Vivien Ramsay. Nelli & Mo, right on North Steyne beach, has everything you need for a day on the sand: think bikinis,

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beach bags and big sunglasses.

Nearby Baku and Tigerlily are dedicated to swimwear. Desire Books and Records is much more than a shrine to classic literature and music – there’s also an open-mic night (last Tuesday of the month) and adhoc poetry and book readings.

CLOCKWISE: Sunburnt Mess, Bow + Arrow, Lucy Folk at Playa, Repressed Records, Lucy Folk’s designs at Playa, Bow + Arrow.

WEST SIDE

Sydney’s bohemian inner-west suburb of Newtown is like the United Nations of food: everything from Ethiopian to Vietnamese is on the menu.

The shopping scene is equally diverse, with vintage fashion taking the lead.

NEWTOWN All your rockabilly needs are taken care of at Faster Pussycat on South King Street; there are also books and magazines for styling inspiration. Retrospec’d Clothing specialises in reproduction ’40s and ’50s clothing and furniture, including pieces designed by Paul Kafka, Artemide and Iittala. Other vintage stores worth digging around in include Cs Flashback, Cream on King and Retro A Go Go. Better Read than Dead is a literary landmark, nourishing Newtown’s intellectuals with a well-curated collection of books, and regular author and community events. Nearby you’ll find stores dedicated to vinyl and music paraphernalia, including Egg Records and Repressed Records.

PHOTOGRAPHYNIKKI TO

BEACHSIDE BELLES

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Explore I SYDNEY SHOPPING GUIDE

Birkenhead Point is Sydney’s largest outlet centre stocking premium brands (think Hugo Boss, Armani, Furla) at up to 70 per cent off.

Only 6km from the CBD, take the Shopper Hopper ferry from Circular Quay and arrive in style. birkenheadpoint.com.au hello.sydney/ShopperHopper 72

CLOCKWISE: Birkenhead Point, Strand Arcade, The Standard Store, David Jones Barangaroo, the QVB, Dinosaur Design.

malls and department stores – Westfield, on pedestrianonly Pitt Street, is loaded with big-name brands such as Sephora, Zara, Aldo, Camilla and Jurlique. But some of the most forward-thinking retail experiences are found in the city’s most historic buildings.

QUEEN VICTORIA BUILDING (QVB) This handsome Romanesque Revival building with its soaring atrium was designed as a marketplace but used as a library and tearoom until the late 20th century. Begin at the Aboriginal Art Galleries, where you can pick up original works as well as books, scarves and didgeridoos. Jewellery designer Virginia Rouse’s boutique Pushmataaha offers beautiful gold and silver pieces that nod to Native American and Asian traditions. Browse draped dresses and tunics

by Australian-Vietnamese designer Alistair Trung, then stock up on high-end basics in organic cotton and denim from Bassike. Refuel with macarons from Zumbo Patisserie, or take time out with petit fours and scones in The Tea Room under ornate ceilings and chandeliers.

STRAND ARCADE When it opened in 1892, the Victorian-era Strand Arcade was described as “the finest public thoroughfare in the

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Australian colonies”. Despite a devastating fire in the ’70s, the arcade, with its tiled floors and stained-glass windows, remains beautiful. In stark contrast is the contemporary Aesop, where you can find the Australian brand’s range of hair, skin and body products, and the all-white Dinosaur Designs – a suitably blank canvas for colourful resin bowls, vases and jewellery.

There’s also Ginger & Smart, Leona Edmiston and Scanlan Theodore, among others.

HARBOUR SIDE The new Barangaroo suburb on Sydney’s western harbour is already known for its cache of cool restaurants. There’s Ume Burger for Japaneseinspired buns, Cirrus Dining for incredible seafood, Belles Hot Chicken for wings that pack a punch and 12-Micron for sophisticated plates that favour native ingredients.

The precinct’s retail space is filling up, with a handful of shops leading the way for future tenants. The David Jones Concept Store is the company’s first small-format boutique, with a focus on personal shoppers as well as click and collect services. Nearby is Title Music Film Books, which houses an extensive range of new, out-ofprint and obscure media. The Waiting Room is Scandinavian fashion importer Some Agency’s second Australian boutique – look out for brands such as Royal Republiq and A.o.cms – and The Standard Store stocks exclusive European and American labels.

Good things, small packages There are plenty of reasons to linger in Sydney’s CBD after a day of shopping, starting with small, trendsetting bars hidden down alleys and side streets. Baxter Inn is not easy to find, but don’t give up – the selection of whiskies on offer here is the best in the city, and the moustachioed bartenders make a mean South Side.

Bulletin Place is popular for its stellar range of signature cocktails, written up daily on butcher’s paper, while Lobo Plantation nods to Cuba with a rum-based menu and Caribbeanthemed decor. The Barber Shop, part lounge, part salon, offers male grooming services – hot-towel shaves, beard trimming and styling – and vintage cocktails. Try the Apple Cobbler, with gin, dry sherry, apple liqueur, citrus and berries.

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL BOUD, DESTINATION NSW, STRAND ARCADE, FELIX FOREST, WESTFIELD SYDNEY

Bargain lovers

THE HEART OF IT ALL The CBD is not short of mega-

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9/08/2017 4:45 PM

Explore I SYDNEY SHOPPING GUIDE

Not so long ago, Sydney’s hotel scene was dominated by large international chains. Today, boutique is back, with savvy operators bringing style and substance to your next sleepover.

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SYDNEY CBD

TO MARKET, TO MARKET You don’t have to be a local to appreciate the artisanal produce at the weekend Carriageworks Farmers Market in Eveleigh. The 70-plus stallholders sell everything from freshly baked breads to Blue Mountains truffles and Mudgee wines. Don’t leave without trying chef Kylie Kwong’s steamed pork buns. The inner-west suburb of Rozelle is home to one of the city’s best flea markets.

Held every Saturday and Sunday, the Rozelle Collectors Market is a treasure trove of

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pre-loved fashion, antiques and bric-a-brac. Paddington Markets has been supporting the country’s budding designers since 1973. Its stalls helped launch Dinosaur Designs and Zimmerman, among others.

Today, there are some 170 shopfronts showcasing fashion and food.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

Set across two historic buildings in the heart of the city, QT Sydney unites edgy design features with bespoke art. Its bar and restaurant are always busy, and the day spa is popular for its customised facials and a hammam-style steam room. Establishment Hotel has 31 individually designed rooms including two glam penthouse suites – think fur throws, marble bathrooms and Le Lobo amenities.

Harbour Rocks Hotel is a historic sandstone building with 59 rooms. Book the Harbour View Suite for a spacious patio with a vista of the city.

INNER CITY The Ultimo in Chinatown bills itself as the world’s first astrology hotel and comes with themed accessories such as zodiac do-not-disturb signs and slippers, and daily horoscopes with your newspaper. Some packages include astrology readings and personalised star charts. The Old Clare, just outside the CBD in upand-coming Chippendale, is worth checking into for its rooftop pool alone. The property is housed in the former Carlton & United Breweries headquarters and has retained much of its heritage charm, including original band posters in the downstairs bar. It’s on the corner of pedestrian-only Kensington Street, home to a handful of popular restaurants and emerging galleries.

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PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL LINNET, DESTINATION NSW

Boutique sleepovers

Carriageworks Farmers Market.

BELOW: Paddington Markets.

BELOW RIGHT: The Old Clare Hotel

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Explore I JAPAN

Tohoku

JAPAN

Tohoku

Tokyo

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SCENE STEALER Japan’s Tohoku region rewards the explorer with natural beauty and living history WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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PHOTOGRAPHY FLICKR / WEI HAO TSAI, FLICKR / ANSEL.MA

irst it’s a samurai castle surrounded by gnarled cherry trees. Then, an open-air onsen on a snowcovered mountain. Next, a thousand-year-old temple above a silent cedar forest. We’re exploring the six prefectures of Japan’s Tohoku region, and everywhere we turn is a scene more stunning than the last.

Tohoku, on the northern tip of the main island Honshu, might be off the well-worn tourist trail between Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto, but what it may lack in accessibility it more than makes up for in moments of quiet beauty. In one of the world’s most popular travel destinations, Tohoku presents a rare opportunity to venture off the beaten path and catch a glimpse of old Japan without the crowds.

Lost in the snow

King of the castle

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Tohoku is undeniably beautiful, dressed in the vivid greens of spring and the blaze of autumn, but one of Japan’s highest snowfalls brings a special magic to winter.

Our trip was timed to coincide with the famous autumn colour, but an unseasonably early winter treated us with the spectacle of autumn growth buried under feather-light drifts of snow. Ruddy apples and golden persimmon hang heavy on leafless boughs, while rice paddies responsible for some of Japan’s highest-grade sake frost over.

In the mountains of Akita prefecture the snow falls thick and fast, clinging to eyelashes and coating naked beech trees. In this blinding, white world the rotenburo onsen (open-air hot spring) is a vivid, milky blue. It was samurai nobility that first frequented Tsurunoyu Onsen – one of eight natural hot-spring resorts in Nyuto Onsen.

Tsurunoyu Onsen has earned the honourific title of hitou – hidden springs treasured for their remoteness, beauty and adherence to tradition.

The onsen and thatchedroof ryokan (inns) have hardly changed in the 400 years since samurai

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A tranquil outlook at Tsurunoyu Onsen.

INSET: Hotel Towadosu kaiseki banquet.

Kaiseki dining

patterned sashes (always tied left over right, the other way is reserved for the dead) and house slippers (the system of indoor, outdoor and bathroom slippers takes some mastering). A multicourse kaiseki banquet awaits on a low table in a private tatami dining room, with bite-size morsels of melt-in-themouth sashimi, pickled vegetables, hairy crab and high-grade Towada beef.

In samurai’s shoes Early in the 17th century, the shoguns closed Japan to the outside world, and it remained shut off for generations. Although the doors have since been thrown wide open, 200 years of isolation has

The Japanese people have stripped off to soak and socialise in onsen for millennia imbued this period with a lingering air of mystery.

In Tohoku, a sliver of shogunate Japan remains preserved.

When the Tsugaru clan ruled the north of the island, its stronghold was the Hirosaki Castle in Aomori prefecture. Built in the 1600s, destroyed by fire and raised again in 1810, the three-tiered keep is reached by a red, lacquered bridge over a stone moat. In spring, the 2500 old-growth cherry trees scattered throughout Hirosaki Park make it an immensely

popular sakura cherry blossom viewing spot. In the dying days of autumn, the grounds are filled with flaming maples, reflected in still pools, their leaves silently carpeting the ground.

Further south in the Akita prefecture, sleepy Kakunodate is one of the country’s best-preserved samurai villages. At a vintage kimono museum, pint-sized dressers truss us in the vice-like layers of the traditional robes, tugging and knotting with relish. Tottering in delicate geta wooden

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lingered to soak warweary bones. In the ryokan, soul-warming dishes such as a nabe hotpot with mountain vegetables and yam dumplings are prepared on a traditional sunken irori hearth.

The Japanese people have stripped off to soak and socialise in onsen for millennia. Before changing social mores saw them dwindle, mixed-sex baths were commonplace, and still are in the old-fashioned areas of Tohoku. In the Hakkoda moutains of the Aomori prefecture, Sukayu Onsen is known for sennin buro – the thousand-person bath – in a vaulted wooden room obscured with a haze of steam. Sukayu Onsen Ryokan is a popular health retreat in which guests recuperate in sulfuric public and private onsen and sleep in elegant tatami rooms.

In season, it offers welcome respite to snow aficionados making the most of the powder at Hakkoda ski resort.

Nearby on the shores of Lake Towada, surrounded by fairytale forests of beech and birch, the sprawling Hotel Towadaso integrates traditional ryokan features – including an open-air onsen – with more modern comforts.

In our elegant, spacious tatami rooms, we don yukata gowns with

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Explore I JAPAN

True disciples

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Japanese spiritualism is a blend of Buddhism and Shinto often practiced more for tradition than faith. Worshippers will honour both without an ideological crisis, getting married at a Shinto shrine but buried at a Buddhist temple. Sacred sites are very accessible to visitors.

The unassuming town of Morioka, the capital of Iwate prefecture, reveals historical merchant districts, feudal palaces and serene places of worship. Off Teramachidori (temple street), Hoonji Temple is entered through an ornate arch under the eyes of two leering Niō (Buddha’s guardians). In the central shrine we come face to face with 499 golden statues of Buddhist disciples (one of the original 500 apparently

disappeared sometime in the last 300-odd years), stacked on shelves from floor to ceiling. The Kyoto masters who carved them in the 1730s made each face unique, some calm, others contorted into growls or laughs. Among them it’s said you can find the likeness of historical figures such as Genghis Khan and Marco Polo.

Climb to the top

Mountain high Harder to get to, but worth every second of effort, Yamadera in Yamagata Prefecture perches on a mountaintop reached by 1015 stone steps through a cedar forest. Pilgrims have been puffing up the steep ascent to the Risshakuji Temple complex since 860AD. Winding between soaring trunks, the path is flanked by crooked stone lanterns and thousands of weathered statues nestled beneath ferns and moss-coated stones. Many of the figures have small offerings at their feet, and have been protected from the elements with red hats and shawls. At the

top, the temples are hewn into the mountainside, with sweeping views of the green valley. In one shrine, families have left thousands of tiny figurines to watch over the souls of children taken too young.

Much like the steps up to Yamadera, the Tohoku region is worth the undertaking. As the Shinkansen bullet train whisks us back towards Tokyo, we seem to move forward in time, leaving behind a place of ancient beliefs and traditions.

Krysia Bonkowski was a guest of Japan National Tourism Organisation.

Need to know The capital of Tohoku, Sendai, in the Miyagi prefecture, is reached in about two hours on the comfortable Shinkansen from Tokyo. The Tohoku Shinkansen line connects most prefectures.

In a traditional onsen, complete nudity is expected and tattoos forbidden unless small and easily hidden. If in doubt, check with the staff before entering the changing room.

To navigate the train system, download the Japan Rail map. For help with the language, try the Google Translate app (with offline mode available).

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Japan from Gold Coast and Cairns.

Snow-covered Tsurunoyu Onsen.

ABOVE: The Yamadera temple complex.

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To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY JAPAN NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION, KRYSIA BONKOWSKI, FLICKR / ANSEL MA

sandals – two sizes too small for Western feet – we wander avenues lined with dormant cherry trees between grand, wooden samurai compounds.

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Promotion I HOSHINO RESORTS

Going green Most people know Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU for its famous powder and wide variety of ski courses, but the green season reveals a different side to this beautiful corner of northern Japan. Explore the idyllic surroundings with a wide range of activities, and make the most of delectable dining and luxurious accommodation.

Rest your head

Wine and dine

Close to all resort facilities, the iconic Tomamu The Tower offers great value in an ideal location.

The upscale RISONARE Tomamu, surrounded by pine trees, offers huge suites, each with their own sauna and whirlpool bath.

With more than 20 dining options, Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU has a restaurant to suit any whim (and budget). Dine on shabu-shabu hotpots at Daigo TOMAMU tei, have a cheese fondue at Green Kitchen or take advantage of an indulgent buffet with a beautiful view at Nininupuri.

From June to September, the Bonfire Wine Bar is the best place to enjoy balmy evenings. Listen to live music in front of openair bonfires with fine wines and cheese fondant made at a local Hokkaido dairy. snowtomamu.jp/summer/en/

Get active Thrill-seekers can try white-water rafting, while kids from three years and up will love floating down river on the nature tour. The season runs from May to October.

Book in for a dawn canoe tour and paddle through a silent world as the morning fog melts off the calm Lake Kanayama. Tours depart between April and October.

No matter the weather, water babies can splash around at MinaMina beach. This covered indoor pool is heated to 30 degrees yearround, and offers one of Japan’s largest indoor wave pools.

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Head in the clouds Get an early start and take the gondola from the valley to witness the hypnotic unkai, ‘sea of clouds’, from the Unkai Terrace. From May to October, a unique phenomenon causes the clouds flowing between Hokkaido mountains to transform into a rolling ocean, best viewed from this custom-made platform.

For another breathtaking perspective, take to the skies in a hot air balloon. Between July and October, a five-minute morning ride will whisk you high above a landscape of forests and fields.

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Explore I BRISBANE ISLANDS

A short drive from central Brisbane, hit the coast and jump on a ferry to the unspoilt islands of Moreton Bay WORDS SHONAGH WALKER

Just out of Brissy

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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Explore I BRISBANE ISLANDS

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ueensland’s Moreton Bay stretches 125km from Caloundra in the north to Surfers Paradise in the south, and is home to more than 360 islands, a wealth of wildlife, birds, coral and seagrass beds, and visiting whales. The sand islands of Moreton Bay – Moreton Island, North Stradbroke Island and Bribie Island – offer activities from four-wheel drive tours to sand boarding, fishing, snorkelling and scuba diving. But they’re also the perfect easy weekend getaway with sunshine, pristine surf beaches, wetlands and national parks.

Making tracks

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Moreton Island is a 170 sq km protected sand island (95 per cent is national park) best known for its beaches and steep dunes, dive sites around coral reefs, a group of sunken boats called the Tangalooma Wrecks, and dolphin and humpback viewing from Cape Moreton – the site of a 19th-century lighthouse.

Between 1952 and 1962, Tangalooma, on the western side, was the site of Queensland’s only whaling station. Today it’s home to the island’s only resort – Tangalooma Island Resort – where you can take a free tour to see how the island has been transformed into an eco-friendly destination with sustainable whale-watching.

Stay Tangalooma Island Resort offers everything from hotel rooms to small villas, apartments and luxury homes, all a short stroll to the beach.

Eat Guests or Resort Day Pass visitors (bookings essential) can access the resort’s dining options. Fire and Stone offer two dining styles. Fire has a Szechuan-inspired menu that offers all manner of pepper-infused

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Think Byron Bay 25 years ago, with a chilled-out vibe dishes (don’t miss that famous local crustacean, the Moreton Bay bug), while Stone serves up local grilled seafood and steaks. The Beach Café has great casual lunch options too.

Other great things to do Go sand tobogganing, feed wild dolphins at sunset, visit Cape Moreton Lighthouse, swim in the Blue Lagoon, explore the war bunkers, kayak the wrecks by night, scuba dive at Flinders Reef or even try a spot of bird-watching – more than 180 species of birds have been recorded on the island.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, TANGALOOMA ISLAND RESORT

Moreton Island

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Explore I BRISBANE ISLANDS

Whale Watch Ocean Beach Resort on the top of your list – the spacious and comfortable three-bedroom apartments have breathtaking views.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Exploring Moreton Island’s beaches by quad bike, kayaking the Tangalooma Wrecks, sandboarding on Moreton Island, the view from Point Lookout on North Stradbroke Island, the villas at Tangalooma Island Resort.

North Stradbroke Island North Stradbroke Island, also known as Straddie, is the jewel of Moreton Bay. Think Byron Bay 25 years ago, with a chilled-out vibe and plenty of yoga, meditation and massage therapists. The island is big – 275.2 sq km – and home to just over 2000 residents, many of whom appear to own a dog (the island is very pet friendly, but there are strict on-leash regulations to protect the friendly and curious fauna).

Stay Accommodation is easy to book, with plenty of holiday rentals available through Discover Stradbroke. Put the

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Fishes at the Point is an old-school Aussie diner that serves up seafood and classic favourites. Right next door, you’ll find bakery Loaves at the Point, which makes a killer sourdough loaf and even better salad sandwich with the classic Australian cheese and beetroot combination.

Other dining options include the Stradbroke Island Beach Hotel, and the more upmarket Whales Way in the Pandanas Palms Resort.

Do A ridiculous number of dolphins and humpback whales frolic in the water off the coast here. Get a great view while trekking the gently challenging North Gorge Walk at Point Lookout, which curves around the cliffs and truly shows the rugged splendour of the coastline.

Every trip to Straddie should include exploring its Indigenous culture. View work from Indigenous artists at the Salt Water Murris Quandamooka Aboriginal Art Gallery, where renowned artist Craig Tapp (Tappy), is often on hand.

A sand boarding or four-wheel driving adventure with Mark Jones of Quandamooka Straddie Adventures comes with an in-depth telling of the island’s Indigenous history as you visit sacred sites and gorgeous inlets.

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Other great things to do Join an historical walk along the Goompi trail with a local Aboriginal guide, a kayak tour to Peel Island to see the shipwreck of the Platypus, which sank in 1930, or even visit Goompi Cemetery, the secondoldest in Queensland.

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Bribie Island

Stay

This sleepy little island is untouched by progress and very unspoilt – it’s the sweetest spot for a day trip from Brisbane or a long weekend. You’ll find a snapshot of its history at the Bribie Island Seaside Museum, where locals will talk you through the island’s stories.

Bribie Island is just 148 sq km but a little more than 20,000 people live there. Around 80 per cent of the island is protected from development – with most of the land uninhabited national park and forestry plantation.

If you’re staying longer than a day, book a one- or two-bedroom apartment or a luxury two- or threebedroom beachfront villa at On the Beach resort, next to Bribie’s main swim spot, Woorim Ocean Beach.

Eat Iconic bayside outlet Saviges Seafood is a little hole-in-the-wall set-up, but serves the freshest, most mouth-watering grilled fish platters or fried fish and chips.

Or for the ultimate view of the island, head back across the bridge (or take a boat or kayak) to the mainland to the Sandstone Point Hotel and feast on seafood.

Do Be sure to stroll the gorgeous, untouched Woorim Beach. Watching the sun rise over the crashing waves will set your mind in a state of calm and balance for the day ahead.

Or book a stand-up paddleboard session, rent a kayak or take an electric bike ride along the foreshore of the Pumicestone Passage, courtesy of Bribie Island Hire Hut and tours.

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Moreton, Bribie and North Stradbroke islands are easily accessed via car or ferry. Island hopping between the three isn’t that easy – there’s a bit of back and forth involved, but if you have the time, it’s well worth it.

MORETON BAY Hop on a ferry from the Holt Street Wharf, about 10 minutes’ drive from Brisbane Airport. From there, the 40km trip takes about 75 minutes.

NORTH STRADDIE Take a car ferry at Toondah Harbour at Cleveland in Brisbane’s East. It takes around 50 minutes and is great if you want your wheels when you reach the island. If not, catch the water taxi, which will get you there in 25 minutes. The island shuttle will take you to your accommodation.

BRIBIE ISLAND The only island with a bridge, Bribie is less than an hour’s drive north of Brisbane city and 45 minutes from the airport.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Brisbane from across the network, and extensive car hire options.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND

Getting there

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11/08/2017 4:02 PM

Explore I BANGKOK

THAILAND Bangkok

The far side

VENTURE TO THE WEST BANK OF BANGKOK’S CHAO PHRAYA RIVER AND DISCOVER A CITY WHERE LIFE IS LIVED ON HIGH AND AT STREET LEVEL WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY

angkok can sometimes feel as though it is straining against its seams, stuck in a madcap race to grow ever higher and wider. In the boisterous Thai capital, skyscrapers face off and suburbs sprawl to the horizon.

One of the few constants is the Chao Phraya River, a sluggish

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ribbon haphazardly dividing Bangkok in two. This natural boundary marks the furthest many tourists – and even locals – ever venture.

The east bank is home to some of Bangkok’s most famous sites: the warrens of Chinatown, the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and backpacker

haven Khao San Road. Few visitors venture west over the river, to the districts of Khlong San and Thonburi, but this sprawling area offers a tantalising taste of Bangkok – one touched by the frenetic modernisation of the greater city, yet still protecting pockets of traditional street life.

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A hi-so favourite

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Chao Phraya may be known as the River of the Kings, but it’s the freeway of the everyman. The water is a throng of activity, criss-crossed with ferries, water taxis, leisure boats and behemoth barges. It also feeds the khlongs, or canals, running like arteries throughout Bangkok. While the Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) now extends into Thonburi, the waterways remain one of the most enjoyable ways to explore the west bank.

The river’s public ‘buses’, the Chao Phraya Express Services, are recognisable by their coloured flags.

While the blue-flagged tourist boat may be tempting, the orange flag service is cheaper, more frequent and stops at more places. The service barrels along upriver, with shrill whistles announcing quick, hull-crunching stops. Piers are numbered north from the east bank Saphan Taksin BTS/ Sathorn, with number one as the first stop north.

Using the express, cross-river ferries and khlongs, it’s possible to explore a great swathe of the area without ever navigating a traffic jam.

Heading up river Pay your 15 baht and chug north to stop number 10, Wang Lang Pier.

The crowds filter off the boat into Wang Lang markets, a favourite of local workers and students where stalls, carts and hole-in-the-wall stores whip up street food from around Thailand. Decide on your menu – a fiery som tam (green papaya salad) with moo tod (fried pork) maybe, or hoy tod (an oyster omelette) followed with khanom krok, a bite-sized coconut custard.

A five-course feast here would cost less than $20.

Once you’ve had your street-food fill, make your way to Thonburi’s most famous attraction – Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. A 20-minute

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Pull up a plastic stool between school kids and businessmen and order a bowl of beef noodle soup – it will be 50 baht (around $2) well spent

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, CHRISPOHER WISE, PAOLA DI BELLA, KRYSIA BONKOWSKI, AVANI RIVERSIDE

The city’s lifeblood

The Never Ending Summer.

ABOVE: Wat Arun. TOP LEFT: Baan Silapin Artist’s House.

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Explore I BANGKOK

The Never Ending Summer at The Jam Factory. BELOW: The infinity pool at the Avani Riverside Hotel.

walk south from Wang Lang, or two stops downriver on the Express Boat then over on a three-baht ferry, this riverside temple predates modern Bangkok. In this serene setting, monks in saffron robes wander the landscaped grounds, and the sun bounces off Chinese porcelain shards decorating the 82m-tall central spire. Access to the complex is free, but a small fee is asked to see the central temple.

Although it’s just to the south and in an equally commanding riverfront location, you’re likely to share Wat Kalayanamit solely with local worshippers. The temple, constructed during the height of Thai and Chinese trade relations in the 1800s, blends the architecture of the two nations. Inside is one of Thailand’s largest indoor Buddhas.

Reaching 15 metres, it rests in a space hung with ornate chandeliers.

The hi life Street food might rule Bangkok, but its residents dearly love a rooftop bar, especially those of the ‘hi-so’ set (the nickname for Thai high-society kids). As developers look west, high-rises climb to

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match cross-river peers, some with their own rooftop sanctuaries. To discover one of the newest, board the free shuttle ferry at Saphan Taksin Pier to Anantara Riverside Resort, and cut through to its sister property Avani Riverside Hotel.

In this sleek, contemporary hotel, every room faces east towards Bangkok’s bustle. Attitude bar and restaurant, next to the infinity pool on the 26th floor, is a hi-so hotspot. A tapas-style menu picks its favourite Asian ingredients and influences – think grazing plates inspired by street food, or rock lobster with greens from Anantara’s rooftop hydroponic garden. Afterwards, kick back with a cocktail from the inventive list and watch Bangkok light up.

Best of both worlds Hi-so and street life meet in Khlong San, a riverside suburb encircled

by Thonburi. Take the Chao Phraya Express to Si Phraya (stop 3), and hop on the cross-river ferry to Khlong San pier. The Khlong San night market is a curious mix of counterfeit hipster fashion and street food, again with barely a tourist in sight. Pull up a plastic stool between school kids and businessmen and order a bowl of beef noodle soup – it will be 50 baht (around $2) well spent.

To check back in with the hi-so crowd, duck next door into the cavernous Millennium Hilton.

Take the elevator to the 32nd floor for a drink on the open-air deck of ThreeSixty, a slick rooftop bar making the most of the hotel’s waterfront position.

Don’t get back on the boat without exploring the pier-side Jam Factory, part of the Creative District spanning Khlong San and Bang Rak across the river. Prominent Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag took on a derelict warehouse and

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Top of the world

Life on the water While street markets and hi-so venues are by no means exclusive to the west bank, delve further into Thonburi and you’ll see a different Bangkok. Thonburi is cut through with khlongs carved out from the Chao Phraya. These canals were once central to city life – locals lived over them, fished in their depths, shopped at floating markets and ate from floating vendors (streetfood favourite ‘boat noodles’ got

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its name from this watery origin).

Largely filled in or covered in the rest of Bangkok, the khlongs remain largely intact throughout Thonburi.

After the fall of the ancient Thai capital Ayutthaya in 1767, King Taskin briefly made Thonburi the capital, until King Rama II moved it across the river to modern-day Bangkok. Thonburi remained independent of Bangkok until 1971, and this perhaps sheltered a more traditional way of life.

Venture back to Anantara Riverside Resort and explore the canals with the Khlong Gurus tour. The English-speaking ‘gurus’ offer a local’s perspective on the khlongs (peppered with trademark Thai quick wit). Accessed via tiny locks off the Chao Phraya, the calm rhythms of the khlongs enfold you almost instantly. The longtail boat, bow bedecked with fake floral garlands, glides past temples, crumbling factories, school yards, mansions, lopsided houses and overgrown orchards, occasionally startling huge water monitors lazing under banana palms. The tour stops off at Baan Silapin Artist’s House, a creative collective in a traditional stilted house. Take a moment to soak up the quiet

Floating vendors ply their trade on the khlongs. ABOVE: Attitude bar at the Avani Riverside Hotel.

canal with its row of quaint wooden homes. It’s a moment of calm those on the other side of the river might never realise they’ve missed.

Krysia Bonkowski was a guest of Avani Riverside Hotel.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Bangkok from Melbourne.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY AVANI RIVERSIDE, ALAMY

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transformed it into a cultural hub containing his practice, design store Anyroom, fashion label Lonely Two Legged Creature, bookshop and café Candide and two restaurants.

The Jam Factory is tempting a trendy, young crowd across the river. On balmy evenings, creatives and expats gather under Bodhi trees in the courtyard for arthouse film screenings, live music and gallery openings, or to browse art and design at the Knack Market on the last weekend of every month.

Restaurants Summer House Project and The Never Ending Summer look like an equatorial answer to downtown Manhattan – with dangling tropical plants softening exposed ceiling rafters, expanses of glass and polished concrete floors.

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1. Gentle Breeze earrings $140. 2. Whimsy River ring $60. 2. Into the Forest cuff $120.

Model Wears: Joyous ring $40, Whimsy River ring $60, Firefly ring $55, Born of Light ring $50, Day Break ring $50; Bird Song cuff $120, Whimsy River cuff $90. www.pastiche.com.au. Prices are listed in AUD.

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Promotion I NEWCASTLE

The Lucky Hotel

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taying true to its grand history, dating back to the 1800s, The Lucky Hotel underwent major renovations in 2014 to restore its original façade and give the iconic Newcastle hotel new life. Contrasted against an elegant fitout, the hotel now offers an appealing mix of old and new.

Family-owned and operated, the Lucky Hotel is well-known for its authentic American

barbecue. Smoked to perfection, favourites include buffalo chicken wings, smoky beef brisket and barbecued pork ribs.

Or try the Lucky Dawg, a mouthwatering combination of crunchy fried onions, sausage, chilli beef, bacon, mustard and cheese on a brioche bun.

The hotel also has a central bar, offering craft beer and signature cocktails, and its award-winning accommodation includes 30 boutique rooms

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with modern furnishings, luxury bedding and ensuites stocked with L’Occitane products.

A favourite spot in the hotel is the stunning internal courtyard, with its lush vertical garden and recycled timbers. At night, the area comes to life with luminous projections splashed across three storeys of exposed brick.

Since it opened, The Lucky Hotel has been awarded the following at the NSW AHA Awards for Excellence;

• Best New/Redeveloped Hotel – Country 2015 • Best Burger 2015 • Best Pub – Style Accommodation Deluxe 2015 • Best Individual Hotel Operator 2015 • Overall Hotel of the Year – Country 2015 • Best Hotel Accommodation – General Division 2016 Tel I 02 4925 8888 Web I theluckyhotel.com.au

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MOTEL makeovers

Savvy hoteliers are breathing new life into the classic roadside motel WORDS PAUL EWART

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that these structures – complete with their neon signs and kitsch designs – ended up peppering the Australian landscape.

Motels became pitstops rather than destinations and their no-frills, practical designs slowly fell out of fashion. Shiny new chain hotels, boasting larger room numbers and polished finishes took over. Until now.

A new breed of savvy hotelier is stepping in across the globe, intent on saving classic motels from the wrecking ball. Some are driven by a desire to preserve the architectural style, others by rosetinted memories of motor travel’s golden years, but there’s no mistaking the fact that many of these buildings are positioned on prime real estate.

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ide open spaces, miles of endless road, spectacular sunsets, faces smeared with zinc and ticking off a checklist of big things – from bananas and pies, to whales and roos – the great Aussie road trip is the stuff of pure nostalgia. And one tradition that went hand-in-hand with these road trips of yesteryear was an overnighter at a motel.

Motels first appeared in Australia in 1937 (the first was the West End Motel in Ballina, NSW), but the postwar boom of the ’50s and onwards marked their heyday. Aussie motels largely took their cue from the US – in particular its iconic Route 66. As with the US, our far-flung distances meant

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These reimagined motels offer high thread-count sheets and often an onsite day spa or paddockto-plate restaurant.

Spearheading this movement in Australia is former ’60s motel turned luxury boutique hotel, Bannisters by the Sea, on the south coast of NSW. Peter Cosgrove bought the property in 2002 and it has steadily become a destination.

“I first came to Bannisters more than 15 years ago,” he says.

“And I was struck by its magnificent location on the headland looking out to sea.” Perched high on a clifftop overlooking the golden sands of Mollymook Beach, the area has long been a popular hangout for locals and visitors.

Peter says the refurbishment has been a form of continuous improvement. “One of the first things we did after buying the property was replace the old plastic pool with a modern infinity pool – you can lean on the edge and look out to sea all day. I think it’s a match for anywhere in the world.”

Spoiled city slickers will love the rooms equipped with sea-view balconies, the day spa and a pop-up Champagne bar. Aussie fashion designer Collette

And I was struck by its magnificent location on the headland looking out to sea Dinnigan marked her first foray into interior design with a makeover of two of the penthouses last year.

And Bannisters is home to the only Australian restaurant run by British seafood king Rick Stein.

Sustainable success Across the ditch, Sam Harwood similarly fell in love with the location of a dilapidated motel, rather than its bricks and

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PHOTOGRAPHY BANNISTERS, VAUGHAN BROOKFIELD, SURFJACK, LAKE MOTEL

Location, location

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Retro cool CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Bannisters on NSW’s south coast, Honolulu’s Surfjack Hotel, Surfjack’s retro styling, the Lake Motel in New Zealand, a two-bed terrace in Queenstown’s Sherwood, poolside yoga at The Sails Motel in Brunswick Heads.

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mortar. Sherwood, set on three acres of alpine hillside in Queenstown overlooking Lake Wakatipu, was formerly part of the country’s largest chain of motels.

“Our reasoning for purchasing was more pragmatic than any great drive to preserve the mid’80s, mock-Tudor design,” Sam says. “Instead, we saw a 3.5-hectare site overlooking Lake Wakatipu that offered scale, scope and space.”

The hipster haven features a large biodynamic vegetable garden, a bar serving organic wines, a studio offering yoga, meditation and pilates, and Ayurvedic massage.

Rubber flooring is made from used car tyres and the motel boasts the largest private solar installation in New Zealand.

“Hotel renovations are a hugely wasteful process,” Sam says. “So we’ve made a conscious choice to respect what was there and to endeavour to have the lowest possible impact on

the environment.”

Sam says Sherwood has become part of the community, rather than just offering a bed for the night. “Our live music programming, educational workshops, co-working and film production studios are all designed to bring our guests and the community together.”

Hashtag haven Halcyon House, a former ’60s beachside motel turned celebrity hotel on the NSW north coast, is the brainchild of Brisbane-based sisters Elisha and Siobhan Bickle, who rechristened the property after the beach holidays of their childhood.

“We fell in love with the site and bought it in 2011, realising its potential,” says Siobhan. “There was a certain charm about the architecture and design. We re-imagined the property, where every suite has its own individual aesthetic, so guests can find their favourite room and then keep coming back. It’s where tranquil, carefree days of summers past can be recaptured.”

The property, in the sleepy seaside village of Cabarita Beach (halfway between Byron Bay and the Gold Coast), has become one of the country’s hottest hotels.

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Boutique Halcyon House in Cabarita Beach, NSW. RIGHT: Hatagoya in Kyoto, Japan.

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“The positioning of a boutique hotel in a quiet costal surfing village had not been tried in Australia before,” Siobhan says.

Its Californian coolmeets-vintage aesthetic is an Instagrammer’s dream – a white and blue palette extends from the restaurant, guest rooms and pool – and its #halcyonhang is heavily used in social media posts.

In-house restaurant Paper Daisy has made a name for itself, too. Its kitchen is helmed by chef Ben Devlin, who cut his teeth at Copenhagen’s two-Michelin-star, Noma.

Halcyon has also garnered serious column inches, even being featured in last year’s coveted Conde Nast Traveller Hot List. Its success is a model for the untapped potential in many of our forgotten and forlorn motels.

Love them or hate them (but really, how could

Its Californian cool-meetsvintage aesthetic is an Instagrammer’s dream you?) the newly chic motel looks set to stay. So, beige, sterile, identikit, chain hotels beware – with loads of charm and a bang- foryour-buck offering – it’s the beginning of a motel revolution.

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Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Gold Coast, Sydney, Ballina Byron, Sunshine Coast, Auckland, Queenstown, Honolulu, and Osaka from across the network, and extensive car hire options.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

SURFJACK HOTEL & SWIM CLUB, Honolulu, Hawaii This budget motel turned oasis is an easy walk from Hawaii’s Waikiki Beach and pays homage to surf’s golden age and The Beach Boys of the ’60s.

A mid-century aesthetic has been applied to guest rooms, with accompanying antiques, and the art-filled lobby is guaranteed to have you reaching for your camera. Standout features include a restaurant serving organic produce and locally caught seafood, nightly live music, sunset pilates and poolside movie screenings. surfjack.com THE LAKE MOTEL, Lake Taupo¯, New Zealand The five retro rooms that comprise the Lake Motel are almost like time capsules, recreating ’60s and ’70s styling. Design-lovers who also appreciate modern conveniences, such as wi-fi and big-screen TVs, will be hooked. The motel sits just 220 metres from the shore of New Zealand’s largest lake and is within walking distance of Taupo¯ town centre. thelakemotel.co.nz THE SAILS MOTEL, Brunswick Heads, NSW Brunswick Heads, 15 minutes north of Byron Bay, is increasingly in the spotlight. The ’60s era Sails Motel reincarnated into a slick Palm Springs-inspired hangout is a stone’s throw from the beach and an easy walk into town. It offers bikes for hire, craft beers for poolside sundowners and cute café Jones & Co., just across the road, serves awesome Allpress coffee. thesailsmotel.com.au

10 HASTINGS STREET BOUTIQUE MOTEL & CAFE, Noosa, QLD A $1.5 million refurbishment has transformed this previously lacklustre motel, nestled steps away from the golden sands of Noosa Heads’ main beach on a vibrant stretch of restaurants, ice-cream parlours and cafés. The suites boast private balconies and slick, beachinspired interiors. Features include a communal barbecue area, a garden hot tub and an onsite café serving locally sourced produce.

10hastingsstreet.com.au

HATAGOYA KAMISHICHIKEN, Kyoto, Japan This traditional-style townhouse is part of Japan’s only motel chain and is one of the bestvalue venues in Kyoto. As one of two townhouses, this traditional Japanese experience includes tatami-matted rooms, sliding screen shoji paper doors, cushions for seating and a single, low table replaced at night by maids with a sleeping futon. True to form, this two-bedroom apartment is all Zen-like emptiness and even features a decadent Japanese cypress-wood bath. kyoto-hatagoya.com

PHOTOGRAPHY HALCYON HOUSE, HATAGOYA

Five top motel experiences

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From little things...

Team spirit

Meet the experts at the helm of Australia’s craft spirit renaissance WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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PHOTOGRAPHY APPLEWOOD DISTILLERY, TOURISM TASMANIA, STARWARD

lose your eyes and think of whisky. You might see the Scottish moors, or the mountains of Japan. Port Melbourne, not so much. But it’s here, across the road from a Bunnings, that you’ll discover one of the country’s most talked-about distilleries. And it’s in good company. Over the past few years, the Australian spirits industry has boomed. From rum produced in the Kimberley to gin distilled on Kangaroo Island, our thirst for craft spirits is insatiable.

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When David Vitale of Port Melbourne’s New World Whisky Distillery followed his future wife to Tasmania over a decade ago, he had plans for an organic microbrewery.

But the island’s whisky turned his head. “I was identifying a lot of similarities between craft beer and craft whisky,” he says. “Craft whisky had so much potential to grow, and I felt like we had an interesting story to tell.”

Back on the mainland, he established a distillery near Melbourne Airport and set to work on the first batch of Starward.

Rather than imitating old-world techniques and “making Scotch whisky in Australia” David wanted to create something new; “an Australian whisky.”

Using Australian redwine barrels, Starward is aged for just “three Melbourne years”. “When you think of how dynamic Melbourne’s weather is, we think that it gives us an advantage in terms of maturing our whisky,” David says. “In Scotland there’s the traditional model of maturation, built around resting whisky in barrels, while we view maturation as working whiskies in barrels. I sometimes say we have the hardestworking barrels in the world.”

David’s hunch about the whisky scene paid off. Starward stormed

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I sometimes say we have the hardestworking barrels in the world

a market just starting to get conversant with craft spirits. Despite being a whisky “for the sharing cabinet, not the special-occasion cabinet” Starward proved it could measure up with the best.

It’s won Australia’s best Single Malt at the last two World Whisky Awards, and Best Craft Distiller Whisky at last year’s San Francisco World Spirits Competition (SFWSC).

The team moved to the Port Melbourne distillery last December.

That’s the spirit From behind the bar at Melbourne’s Whisky & Alement, where more than 700 spirits are poured, Luke McCarthy has become an authority on local drops. He documented the industry’s boom for his book The Australian Spirits Guide. “The number of Australian distilleries has doubled over the last decade, there are now well over 100 in operation,” Luke says.

“With so many quality

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: David Vitale of New World Whisky Distillery, pioneer Bill Lark, Kristy Booth at Killara Distillery, Luke McCarthy with a bottle of Starward.

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established distillers are willing to offer advice and encouragement to those coming through.”

This has been David’s experience. “The industry is very collegiate. I’m always happy to answer the phone to a distiller needing support or advice, and vice versa.”

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA, STARWARD, JACK LARK

A family affair

whiskies, gins, brandies, rums, vodkas and other spirits being produced, even I’ve been finding it tricky to keep up.”

While Luke cautions it can take real “grit and determination” to get started in spirits, he believes the industry’s inclusivity goes a long way. “The one thing that sets the Aussie industry apart is the people.

There’s a genuine desire to build and raise the profile of the industry as a whole, and that’s meant

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The Australian spirits story is often traced back to Tasmania where, in 1992, Bill and Lyn Lark successfully battled a federal ban on small stills to establish the state’s first licensed distillery since 1839. Lark singlemalt whisky made people take notice, as did Forty Spotted gin, which harnessed Tasmanian mountain pepper berry.

Many distillers, including David, credit the Larks as mentors.

Growing up in the first family of Aussie spirits, Kristy Booth became one of the world’s youngest distillers at Lark. She has since gone one better to become Australia’s first

female owner-distiller at Killara Distillery in Tasmania, and started the Australian Women in Distilling Association.

Although Kristy didn’t initially plan to follow her parents’ footsteps, she was inspired by their dedication. “Given that I was taught to make whisky by my dad, and gin and liqueurs by my mother, I am certainly influenced by them to continue to increase my skills and constantly learn new things,” she says.

From Killara Whisky, due out next year, Kristy says we can expect a smooth, elegant whisky reflective of her years of experience.

Tasmania remains a spirits powerhouse; Kristy estimates that around a quarter of Australia’s distillers call the island home. “We have such clean water, excellent barley and very similar

temperatures to Scotland, which all contribute to making great spirits,” Kristy says. “The distilling community is also very supportive.”

On another, smaller island, Sarah and Jon Lark (Bill’s brother) have made their own mark at Kangaroo Island Spirits.

The island’s pristine environs flavour the acclaimed spirits, such as a gin crafted using native juniper, and a vodka harnessing the native succulent samphire.

New tricks In an industry dominated by hallowed Old-World spirits, Australian producers are making up for lost time. “Many of our distillers haven’t constrained themselves to one type of spirit … they’re constantly trying new things,” says Luke.

Kristy has not rested while her whisky ages

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– she released Apothecary Gin last November, and has plans for a range of seasonal liqueurs. The story is repeated across the board. While ageing Mackey Single Malt whisky, fellow Tasmanian Shene Estate Distillery produced Poltergeist Gin Unfiltered, which took top honours at this year’s SFWSC and World Gin Awards. As the soughtafter Husk Rum ages in northern NSW, the Husk Distillery team turn to the blue-hued Ink Gin – an #instafriendly drop.

Native ingredients have also helped distillers distinguish their product. “There’s certainly a movement afoot to understand and consume what’s in your own backyard,” says Luke.

“Aussie spirits have a lot to offer folks in this space, because the industry is full of remarkable characters who really believe in the unique, often rural areas their spirits come from. By using botanicals that are only found in Australia, these spirits taste like nothing else from anywhere in the world.”

When winemakers Laura and Brendan Carter started Applewood Distillery in the Adelaide Hills, they carried the viticultural importance of place into distilling.

“We’re intensely passionate about products that speak of their place – utilising varieties that are particularly adapted

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3 favourite pours SEB COSTELLO

A handful of the botanicals used at Applewood Distillery.

BELOW Brendan and Laura Carter.

these spirits taste like nothing else from anywhere in the world

to the climate, sites and soils of Australia,” says Brendan. “We were already posing the questions of ‘Why Shiraz?

Why not Nero d’Avola?’ so we stretched this out to ‘Why Cherries? Why not Riberries?’”.

Their curiosity is evidenced at the Ochre

Nation cellar door, in gin spiked with green ants, liqueurs made with local fruit deemed too ‘ugly’ for wholesale and the aperitif Økar; a Campari/Aperol alternative. “Native and Indigenous produce is intrinsic to all we believe in,” says Brendan. “Our Red Økar, for example, is 90 per cent composed of native Australian botanicals to showcase the herbaceousness and rich complexities we can derive from them”. From the bush tomato in The West Winds Gin’s The Cutlass to the cinnamon myrtle in Adelaide Hills Distillery’s Gunnery spiced rum, pioneering distillers are giving us Australia, in a bottle.

Owner of Bad Frankie – Melbourne bar specialising in Australian spirits Hoochery Distillery’s Ord River Overproof Rum “Made by one of the first Australian distillers, Spike Dessert, it’s a big, rich molasses forward rum from Kununurra in WA. I love it because it speaks of the place where it was made and when you taste it you can really feel the heat and ruggedness of the east Kimberley region.”

KATHLEEN DAVIES Founder of Nip of Courage – the first distributor to specialise in Australian-made and owned spirits Stone Pine Distillery’s Japhet White Dry Gin “This juniper-forward style gin marries aromatic Macedonian juniper with earthy spice and floral top notes. The Australian native botanicals, saltbush and lemon myrtle, round out the palate of this opulent gin, making for a most refined dry martini or gin and tonic.”

DAVID VITALE Founder of Starward Whisky Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz Gin “It’s just genius, and shares a lot in common with Starward in terms of partnering with local winemakers to source barrels and wine, to create something distinctly Australian.”

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14/08/2017 2:47 PM

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SPECIAL FEATURE

IT’S PLAYTIME GET THE KIDS’ MINDS WHIRRING AND LEGS MOVING THESE SCHOOL HOLIDAYS

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get a large dose of sun, sand and surf

SPORTY KIDS

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Sport promotes cooperation, coordination and above all, fun. With the spring holidays upon us and the summer break coming up fast, hundreds of thousands of kids will take part in summer sports and seasonal programs.

BEACH BUMS Every year, young surf lifesavers in the making congregate on beaches around Australia. The Nippers program has been running since the ’60s, with experienced surf lifesavers teaching kids invaluable lessons about beach safety.

They’ll learn skills including paddling, diving and identifying hazards in the water, and get a large dose of sun, sand and surf in the process.

LITTLE SPORTS STARS Growing out of a single training session in Geelong in 1964, Little Athletics, which Jetstar is proud to support, is another beloved warm-weather ritual that has introduced generations of kids to track and field. Former Little Ath and Olympian Melissa Breen recently led a training session for a group of budding track stars from the Adelaide Eagles Little Athletics Centre. She spoke fondly to Jetstar about her own days in Little Athletics.

“Training at Little Athletics as a child was where I first found my passion for athletics,” she says. The Little Athletics Roll of Excellence recognises champions who started out as Little Aths, and includes fellow Australian Olympians Steve Hooker and Sally Pearson, professional surfer Sally Fitzgibbons and NBA basketball star Patty Mills.

NINJA SCHOOL GeckoSports applies sportsscience principles to improve kids’ coordination and fitness.

Operating across NSW, QLD, SA and VIC, GeckoSports runs after-school classes and school-holiday programs in everything from boxing to cricket. Little warriors will love the brand new GeckoNINJA school-holiday program, which will let them live out their Ninja Warrior dreams on a diabolical (but safe) obstacle course.

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Future lifesaver

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: A nipper on Sydney’s Bondi Beach, warming up at GeckoSports, a little athlete in action.

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, GECKO SPORTS, LITTLE ATHLETICS

PLAYING SPORT IS ABOUT SO MUCH MORE THAN FITNESS

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AUSTRALIA’S BEST IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

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CURIOUS MINDS SCHOOL MAY BE OUT, BUT THAT’S NO REASON KIDS CAN’T KEEP LEARNING Check out your nearest museum, community centre or mall for engaging activities that sneak in a dose of brain training.

Live learning

MUSEUM MADNESS

PHOTOGRAPHY MIKE O’NEILL, JOEL CHECKLEY, ARTVO, 100 STORY BUILDING

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Te Papa’s Hı¯na¯ tore learning lab, at 100 Story Building, the Bug Lab at Melbourne Museum, ArtVo at Melbourne’s Docklands.

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Most major museums offer holiday programs designed to engage young minds.

Wellington’s Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa has unveiled its specialist learning lab Hı¯na¯ tore, where children can get hands on with new technologies. On loan from Te Papa at Melbourne Museum, the Bug Lab: Little Bugs, Super Powers gives children a peek into the secret world of insects with life-size creations from New Zealand’s acclaimed Weta Workshop. Sydney’s Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences is a haven for inquisitive kids, from the interactive exhibits at the Powerhouse Museum to night tours at the Sydney Observatory.

SELFIE TIME At ArtVo in Melbourne’s Docklands, kids (and adults) can immerse themselves in 11 themed galleries featuring large-scale artworks painted onto the walls and floors. From a wild enchanted garden to a jungle safari, the scenes are begging to be photographed, with kids the stars of the show.

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CREATIVE MINDS If you have a budding performer on your hands, look into the holiday programs offered by the highly respected National Institute of Dramatic Art. Taking place at schools and community centres around the country, classes teach the essentials of performance, such as improvisation, rehearsal and characterisation. Little authors can express themselves at 100 Story Holidays, the school-holiday program at 100 Story Building, a hub for young writers in Melbourne’s Footscray. They’ll learn how to craft narratives, create comic strips and express their imagination on the page.

SHOP ’TIL THEY DROP If you are stuck for inspiration, many malls offer complimentary all-ages activities. Pacific Fair on the Gold Coast is offering life-size board games this spring school holidays, from oversized Pictionary to a scavenger huntstyle game of Scrabble. You’ll keep them happily occupied while you squeeze in a little retail therapy on the side.

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Up in the treetops

PINT-SIZED EXPLORERS DO SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT THESE SCHOOL HOLIDAYS From aerial escapades to outdoors adventures, give them the chance to climb, tumble and explore as only kids can.

A DAY AT THE CIRCUS Melbourne’s Circus Oz offers holiday classes in its purposebuilt Collingwood site, teaching trapeze, acrobatics, juggling and more. Professional performer and Classes Coordinator Cleo Cutcher finds that kids of all temperaments fit in well.

“Energetic and daring kids love to climb the aerial gear or turn themselves upside down on the

trapeze, and those who are a little less boisterous find a great pace with learning to juggle or balance on the tightwire,” she says. “Everyone can walk away feeling they have achieved something, with a bigger smile than when they arrived.”

BOUNCING OFF THE WALL Kids who fly in the face of gravity will also love the Sky Zone trampoline parks in Sydney, Brisbane and Canberra.

The School Holiday Camp gives them the run of the parks, learning tricks and flips in a program created by Olympic trampolinist Ji Wallace.

PROFESSIONAL PLAY Architect-designed playgrounds are applying design standards to the art of play. Check out Braithwaite Park in Perth’s north, Darling Quarter in central Sydney, Adelaide Zoo’s Nature’s Playground and Margaret Mahy Playground (built in consultation with the kids of Christchurch following the 2011 quake).

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Everyone can walk away feeling they have achieved something

GET BACK TO NATURE For a dose of fresh air along with some exercise, have a wilderness escapade. Trees Adventure offers obstacle courses and ziplines strung high between the branches in pristine bushland settings in NSW, WA, VIC and TAS. On a beautiful property near Hamilton in New Zealand, Adventure Waikato offers a wide range of adventurous activities including caving, abseiling and bush walks. It’s time well spent being active outdoors.

PHOTOGRAPHY AARON WALKER, SKY ZONE, TREES ADVENTURES

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CLOCKWISE: Trees Adventure in Victoria, air time at Sky Zone, learning new skills at Circus Oz.

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Play mates

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Cool and colourful gift ideas for creative kids

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Bright spark

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9.

1. OUTLIVING Disguise Lion, $190, outliving.com.au 2. NEXT Cobalt Happy cap, $11.50 to $13.50, next.com.au 3. GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS Build Your Own Rubber Band Plane, $21.99, yellowoctopus.com.au 4. TYPO Chalk 12 pack, $2.95, cottonon.com/au 5. NEXT Boys slip-on shoes, $22 to $26, next.com.au 6. SMIGGLE Glam shoulder bag, $34.95, smiggle.com.au 7. MR & MRS JONES Great Majesco Yoyo, $9.95, mrandmrsjones.com.au 8. FLIK FLAK Hulala watch, $65, and Wave’s Slide watch, $60, shop.swatch.com/en_au 9. SUNNYLIFE Tiffany Cooper Cool Cactus paddles $36.95, sunnylife.com.au 10. WHY CAN’T I BE A DINOSAUR? Kylie Westaway, illustrated by Tom Jellet, $24.99, allenandunwin.com

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11/08/2017 4:04 PM

Directory I AUSTRALIA / NEW ZEALAND Bay of Islands, New Zealand

REDEFINING THE WAY YOU DISCOVER

INFLITE EXPERIENCES

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Indoor skydiving offers a fully controlled, ultra safe environment that will have you FLYING like a real life Superhero! Plus, the 360 degree glass tunnel with all round viewing platform lets everyone share in the magic.

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Safe and fun for ages 3 to 103, it is both an exhilerating experience and a highly addictive sport. There is no parachute, no jumping and nothing attaching you to planet Earth. It’s just you, the air and an incredible adrenaline rush!

If you’re looking for a unique and memorable experience for the whole family, then head to iFLY Indoor Skydiving in Sydney, Gold Coast or Perth, and suit up for the flight of a lifetime!

To book, call 1300 i CAN FLY or visit iFLY.com.au

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11/08/2017 12:04 PM

Directory I AUSTRALIA

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9/08/2017 4:53 PM

Directory I AUSTRALIA / INDONESIA

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing Ă la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

Address: Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne Tel: +61 (0)3 9654 8933 Web: kenzan.com.au

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10/08/2017 2:21 PM

Explore I INTERVIEW

Beach beauties

SWELL Sculpture Festival (8 -17 September) celebrates its 15th year of transforming the Gold Coast’s Currumbin Beach into Queensland’s largest outdoor exhibition.

119 119

NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

PHOTO MICHAEL GREVES ARTWORK STILLNESS IN TIME BY LISA SORBIE MARTIN

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9/08/2017 4:54 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

AIR ADVENTURES

Meet Alice!

Life at Jetstar 120 120

WORKING AT JETSTAR is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about. The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career.

But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read one of their stories below, or at Life at Jetstar – Jetstar.com/au/en/careers/life-at-jetstar.

ALICE REDGROVE Job Title: Apprentice Aircraft Maintenance Engineer (Mechanical) Location: Newcastle | Age: 21 | No. of years at Jetstar: 3.5 What qualifications did you need for the job? I had my HSC when I started, but there are no pre-requisites, just a willingness to learn and an interest in aviation.

Describe a typical day: I start work at 6.30am with a toolbox talk with the rest of my shift, run by my supervisor. Groups of around three to four people are then allocated a job. Our day may then include servicing tasks such as oil or fuel filter changes, removing components that require routine overhauls or doing inspections for any aircraft defects.

120-123_ESSENTIALS_JETSTAR NEWS.indd 120

Greatest challenge?

Waking up at 5.20am on a cold winter’s morning isn’t always easy!

Where do you want to be in five years?

I would like to be working at Jetstar as an Aircraft Maintenance Engineer, working my way towards being a Licensed Aircraft Maintenance Engineer.

What do you love about flying/aviation?

I love the impact aviation has on people’s lives – it connects them with loved ones, takes them on holidays and is always the starting point for amazing memories.

Anything with that kind of impact has to be good! jetstar.com/au/en/careers

FIRST TIME FLYER

Doing something for the first time is always nerve racking yet exhilarating, giving you an adrenaline-fueled feeling like no other.

Jetstar wants to help give everyone that ‘first-time feeling’ by providing lifechanging experiences.

Ballarat local, Adriana, aged 28, had a very special friend who reached out to Jetstar recently to help her take her first-ever flight.

Jetstar was ready to help by giving Adriana an experience she would never forget, flying her to Brisbane to be reunited with her sister, Miranda.

“Flying was a lot better than I had imagined! It is just the start, I will definitely be flying again,” Adriana says.

Miranda could not have been happier to have her sister visit for the first time since moving to Brisbane.

“Flying to visit me just wasn’t something Adriana would have even considered before … This is honestly the best gift I could ever get!”

9/08/2017 4:57 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

How to make a Jetstar cake

The ultimate aviation-themed creation, perfect for every kid’s birthday, was recently made by mother of three and baker extraordinaire Lisa of online cake maker Little Whisk.

Creating unique celebration cakes is her specialty, however she recently baked her most spectacular – and delicious – cake yet, a Jetstar plane cake!

Lisa wanted to create a simple yet spectacular cake. “Baking for me is about being creative while spending time with the kids, so I wanted to make something that would give everyone that same joy.”

The aviation creation is a simple four-step process that any budding baker can follow, so it’s time to get baking!

To find out the recipe for the Jetstar plane cake or to share your own aviation-themed cakes, be sure to visit the Jetstar Australia or New Zealand Facebook page and #Jetstar.

JETSTAR’S NEW INFLIGHT MENU ITEMS Jetstar is excited to launch a range of new in-flight menu items, as decided by you!

We asked our customers what in-flight menu options they wanted, and the results were delicious.

Fans of the bean will be pleased to learn that Lavazza Coffee will now be served on board with 38 per cent of customers choosing it as their preferred coffee brand.

And a new croissant and danish duo pack will also be offered on all flights.

Enjoy your coffee and treat – we know they won’t disappoint!

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Somebody’s

Daughter

FOR 37 YEARS Maud Clark has been in and out of prisons. But it’s not what you may think. As the co-founder and CEO of Somebody’s Daughter Theatre Company, Maud has worked tirelessly with women in prison, and post-release, to ensure their voices are heard through high quality drama, music and art, while also providing pathways back into mainstream society.

Somebody’s Daughter creates highly successful theatre productions that raise awareness of poverty and abuse as issues leading to addiction, mental ill-health, family violence, homelessness, incarceration and institutionalisation.

Engaging audiences from Geelong to

Brisbane, Maud and her skilled team have transformed the lives of women and young people who participate in the Company’s creative program. Often from backgrounds of abuse, neglect and poverty, participants have been able to reclaim their identity and sense of selfworth through creative expression.

121

Kooks is proud to celebrate Maud’s labour of love as she inspires, provokes and challenges people and perceptions. To support her work or for more information go to somebodysdaughtertheatre. com.au

9/08/2017 4:57 PM

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

FLYING WITH OUR FATHERS We celebrate Father’s Day by chatting to two Jetstar father/daughter flying duos

Proud dad!

CHRIS AND LAUREN SMITH

122 122

How do other colleagues and passengers react?

Chris: The Cabin Crew especially are always happy Meet Pilot Wellness Manager Chris and his daughter Lauren, to see it. I think Lauren is becoming better known than a Boeing 787 First Officer me. Often now it’s: ‘Oh, you’re Are you proud to work Lauren’s father.’ I’m slowly with Lauren? handing over the baton!

Chris: I couldn’t be more so. It’s Lauren: The crew, who are even more amazing that we not also some of my friends, love only work in the same company, it. My fiancé Dave and Mum but at times we’ve also been have been passengers with us able to work together. a few times. They both hold it together on the outside, Did your dad inspire you to but on the inside they’re very become a pilot?

Lauren: Yes he did – I couldn’t excited and proud. imagine being where I am Do you ever find yourself if it wasn’t for his support giving Lauren flying tips? and mentoring. When my Chris: She’s always been brother, sister, and I were a person who makes her young, Mum would take us to own way and I respect that watch him arrive at Brisbane immensely. But there are airport. Dad’s father flew always things we learn, and as a private pilot and had a passing on our experience Twin Comanche aircraft, so is very important. That goes three generations within the both ways, and I’m now aviation industry is unusual. learning from her.

Have you flown together?

Lauren: Yes we have, which has been a top career highlight for both of us.

What a team

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MARK AND MELANIE WHEELER

my love for aviation grew. I learnt from a young age that I loved being in the air.

Mark is a B787 Captain and Flight Examiner and his daughter Melanie is a First Officer A320

How do your colleagues and passengers react?

Melanie: My team members love our relationship. A lot of the pilots have known me from a very young age. They are proud of my achievements and enjoy flying alongside the “other M Wheeler”. I often get comments like, ‘Gee you look your dad!’ and ‘chip off the old block’.

Mark: The reaction I get most is one of support and encouragement as a father mentoring and guiding his daughter in her career of choice. Having chosen aviation, Melanie has had to overcome some personal hurdles and I am there to support her in achieving growth and experience.

When did you start working with Jetstar?

Mark: I commenced work with Jetstar when it launched in 2004. My task as Manager Flight Operations A320 was to introduce the Airbus 320 for the new airline to be known as ‘Jetstar’. I went on to become the Chief Pilot for a number of years, then Check Captain on the Airbus A330 and B787 Dreamliner aircraft.

Are you proud to work with Melanie?

Mark: Very much so. In the early days when Jetstar was in its infancy Melanie was a young girl – only nine years old. She would ask me about flying and my job with great interest. To see her develop that passion and now operate as a First Officer on the A320 makes me very proud of her.

Did your dad inspire you to become a pilot?

Melanie: Growing up I would wear dad’s uniform around the house (including the oversized boots and hat). Our family owned a light aircraft, which dad would take us kids in, and

What have been some of your career highlights?

Melanie: I have two exciting moments. One would be the first time I ever flew an aircraft with my dad on board. It was a big moment for both of us. Next would be starting my career at Jetstar.

To me it’s like being part of an extended family. Putting on my uniform for the first time and flying the plane was completely unreal.

9/08/2017 4:57 PM

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1300 759 348

15/08/2017 9:54 AM

Newcastle Art Gallery

Tracey MOFFATT & Gary HILLBERG Artist (still) 2000 looped video with sound, 10 minutes Courtesy the artist, Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, Sydney and Tyler Rollins Fine Art, New York

ALSO ON DISPLAY:

MAZIE KAREN TURNER: Between dream and earth 2 SEPTEMBER - 5 NOVEMBER 2017 This organisation is supported by the NSW Government through:

Newcastle Art Gallery gratefully acknowledges ongoing support from:

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COMING SOON:

EVERYTHING CHANGES: Tim Maguire 2000-2017 18 NOVEMBER 2017 - 18 FEBRUARY 2018 Montages: The Full Cut, 1999 – 2015 was curated and developed by Artspace, Sydney and is touring nationally in partnership with Museums & Galleries of NSW.

9/08/2017 9/08/2017 11:01 4:57 PM AM

Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

CAMBODIA I STARKIDS

Inspiring the next generation Children in Cambodia are encouraged to lead community education WORDS LUCY CURNO

You can help!

Sopheak and the children in the youth club love to draw, write and play soccer.

PHOTO WORLD VISION

F

our years ago, if you had asked Sopheak what he thought of school, he would have said he skipped it. As a shy boy with a fear of joining group activities, he found other places to have fun. Now, the 16-year-old inspires and teaches 30 kids in a World Vision youth club every Sunday.

Sopheak had a change of heart when he saw his peers involved with the youth club, gaining the skills and confidence to educate younger children. For Sopheak, it was a chance to be brave – he asked to join too. Since then, he has

worked hard at school knowing that if he does this, he can also inspire other children.

His main goals are clear – to be active, brave and enable education for all children in his community.

“I am motivated. I feel respected. My students call me Bong [a title of respect],” he adds.

His goals don’t stop here. Already, Sopheak is saving money to fund his future education.

His dream? To become a community facilitator and positive influence.

“I want to see my community developed – no alcohol, no violence, and no drugs.”

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need.

Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia.

By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future.

A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia.

Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information.

Your small change today could change a life tomorrow!

JETSTAR.COM

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

This year

$1,654,967 Total

125

*

$9,141,522

from assistance across Cambodia each year.

Sopheak’s family is also being assisted.

World Vision helped them with building a toilet, and gave his parents the tools to learn more about hygiene, health, nutrition, and agriculture. It is thanks to the support of Jetstar customers that such initiatives across communities such as Sopheak’s are possible.

Sopheak isn’t the only one flourishing from World Vision support.

He is one of 1.5 million children who benefit *Funds raised in last financial year as of June 2017. Total raised since 2007.

11:01 AM

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9/08/2017 4:57 PM

Essentials I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

PLANE SPOTTING

Break out the binoculars and a notebook, and look to the skies for aviation inspiration

VIEW THE SIGHTS

It’s all in the detail

126

Common details that plane spotters like to note include an aircraft’s size and shape, distinctive noise or vapour, changes to the colour scheme, and the engine type, number and location. This information is then often shared on tracking sites and social media.

Perth Airport has put together a top-notch public viewing area, complete with free parking and information panels to help newbies identify differences between A320s and B737s. Brisbane Airport is very supportive of plane spotters, encouraging them to share their snaps with the tag #BNEspotters.

GAME CHANGER When websites emerged to help the public track planes, it changed the game for spotters.

Now they know what aircraft are heading where and the best times to see them. Try it yourself and track Jetstar’s Dreamliner 787s by clicking on the #dreamliner stories link on Boeing’s website: boeing.com

Heli high

For something a little different, join the ‘rotorheads’ at Hammond Place in Sydney Airport – the best spot to watch helicopters departing and arriving.

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MORE INFORMATION Check out spotter groups on social media for insider tips on specific airports.

Many airport websites also have aviation enthusiast pages, where spotters can upload their finds.

DID you KNOW?

Rydges Sydney Airport Hotel has a plane spotting area for the public. Buy a pass from reception to access the outdoor viewing deck. Check the website (rydges.com) or Facebook for open times.

MEET THE SPOTTERS The art of plane spotting is all about tracking the movement of different aircraft and taking note of specific features. It’s a hobby that appeals to people of all ages and all walks of life. Plane spotters are easy to pick in a crowd; they are the ones with binoculars, fancy cameras, notebooks and possibly a smartphone open to a flight-tracking site.

9/08/2017 4:58 PM

COK16

RAROTONGA AND AITUTAKI

Rarotonga and Aitutaki in the Cook Islands are a paradise waiting for you to discover. Soon after landing, you can be swimming in the crystal clear lagoon, sipping on your first cocktail or taking off on a scooter adventure.

GET THE FEELING WITH JETSTAR THREE FLIGHTS A WEEK FROM AUCKLAND. GET CLOSER TO THE FEELING

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang Shantou Guangzhou Hanoi Dong Hoi

Chiang Mai

Flights are operated

by Jetstar Asia and commence 17 November (Singapore-Okinawa), subject to government and regulatory approval.

Flights are operated by Jetstar Asia and commence 28 November (Singapore-Clark), subject to government and regulatory approval.

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Yangon

Flights are operated

by Jetstar Asia and commence 3 November (Singapore-Hat Yai), subject to government and regulatory approval.

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang 128 Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns Townsville

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

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9/08/2017 4:58 PM

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Phu Quoc

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Oita Kumamoto

Nha Trang Da Lat

Kagoshima

Ho Chi Minh City

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

129

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon) Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 14 November.

Operated by Jetstar Airways

128-129_ESSENTIALS_MAPS_SEPTEMBER.indd 129

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

9/08/2017 4:58 PM

Explore Australian I INTERVIEW & New Zealand airports

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour.

Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20.

Enquire at airport information desk.

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12. Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre.

Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins.

Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

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Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle.

Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $59 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $49 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor.

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential).

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle.

Adult $21, child $13; return:

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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9/08/2017 4:59 PM

Australian & New Zealand airports

adult $41, child $21.

Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Hamilton Island

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25 TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon)

25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18.

Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston. Present your Jetstar boarding pass for a discount on any of these services.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers.

TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: Adult $32, child $26, return: $64

Newcastle

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins Approx $130

27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for

130-131_ESSENTIALS_AIRPORT INFO.indd 131

additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk.

Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred). From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles.

Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect.

Tickets $15; return: $30.

Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/ T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers.

Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80.

TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22.

TransLink Bus 622.

Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

131

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle. Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins.

Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit.

Adult $18, child $13.

Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18.

Bookings not required.

9/08/2017 4:59 PM

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9/08/2017 4:59 PM

Kids puzzles

MAZE can you FIND

and

PACK all 3 items before heading into THE WILD?

can you find 9

THE

DIFFERENCE

in the WILD? 133

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

SPOT

differences

132-137_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 133

9/08/2017 4:59 PM

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25/07/2017 11:38 am 15/08/2017 10:07 AM

Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 What connects an embryo with its placenta? (9,4) 7 What did Little Jack Horner use to pull a plum out of a pie? (5) 8 The ‌ is an ancient Greek poem attributed to Homer. (7) 11 What’s the internet abbreviation for “at the momentâ€?? (3) 12 What’s the French word for a love affair? (5) 13 Something ‌, something new, something borrowed, something blue. (3) 14 What’s a small and specific market or group? (5) 15 What’s the name of the Australian women’s national basketball team? (5) 16 What word means to duplicate with a stencil and is also called a mimeograph? (5) 17 What spiced milk and egg drink is also called an egg flip? (6) 19 The ‘Inca ‌’ in the Andes leads to Machu Picchu. (5) 21 What catches the worm? (5,4) 23 What is the colloquial name for people from Western Australia? (11)

1 What type of foot race is longer than a marathon? (13) 2 The town of Katoomba is in which region near Sydney? (4,9) 3 What dog has the temperament of a labrador and the coat of a poodle? (11) 4 In the Harry Potter universe, what sweet treat jumps and comes with a collectable card? (9,4) 5 What type of lettuce is usually used in a Caesar salad? (3) 6 “Cheer up sleepy Jean, Oh what can it mean, to a ‌ believer.â€? The Monkees (1967) (8) 9 What are long, and maybe untrue, stories told around campfires? (5) 10 What name is legendary jazz musician Louis Armstrong also known by? (7) 18 What word element means ‘sugar’, as in ‘glycogen’? (6) 20 When two people disagree, they are ‘at ‌’. (4) 22 The contraction of ‘I have’. (3)

135

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

+

8

$

132-137_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 135

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9/08/2017 4:59 PM

Quiz

QUICK QUIZ Test your knowledge of New Zealand’s great outdoors

136

9. In New Zealand’s highaltitude areas, you might encounter what species of inquisitive parrot?

1. Approximately how much of New Zealand’s total land mass is protected parkland?

2. Which high-adrenaline activity was first commercialised in New Zealand?

3. How long is Ninety Mile Beach in miles?

4. What is the highest peak in New Zealand?

5. Of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks, how many are found on the North Island?

6. The Okere River (Kaituna) is home to the world’s highest commercially rafted waterfall. How high is it?

A) 4 metres B) 7 metres C) 10 metres 7. If you were in Rotorua and found yourself Zorbing, what would you be doing?

8. What is New Zealand’s largest lake by surface area?

7

10. The Te Araroa walk, from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island, covers roughly how many kilometres?

11. In what North Island cave system can you try ‘blackwater’ rafting?

12. Born in Auckland in 1919, who is New Zealand’s most famous mountaineer?

13. Found on the South Island, two of New Zealand’s largest and most-visited glaciers are Franz Josef and ‘what’ Glaciers.

8

2

14. How many characters are there in Taumatawhakatangihangak oauauotamateaturipukakapi kimaungahoronukupokaiwh enuakitanatahu, a hill with one of the longest place names in the world?

SOLUTIONS

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_One third 2_Bungy 3_55 4_Aoraki/Mount Cook 5_Three - Lake Waikaremoana, Whanganui Journey and the Tongariro Northern Circuit 6_ B) 7 metres 7_Rolling down a hill inside a large inflatable ball 8_Lake Taupo 9_A kea 10_3000km 11_Waitomo Caves 12_Sir Edmund Hillary 13_Fox 14_85 132-137_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 136

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The Fate of the Furious

ザ・フェイト・オヴ・ザ・フューリアス

McLaren

Born in China

マクラーレン

ボーン・イン・チャイナ

| 126 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: F. Gary Gray CAST: Charlize Theron, Dwayne Johnson, Kurt Russell

| 92 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENS DIRECTOR: Roger Donaldson CAST: Mario Andretti, Alastair Caldwell

| 76 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Chuan Lu CAST: John Krasinski, Xun Zhou

Bruce McLaren, the New Zealand founder of the McLaren Motor Racing team, took on the elite world of motor racing and won.

Take an epic journey into the wilds of China where few people have ever ventured, following the stories of three animal families.

All seems well in the Furious family … until Dom goes rogue. Still reeling from the betrayal, the team will have to work with new equipment and old enemies in a race against time in order to bring their beloved friend home. Your favourite characters will take on a venomous villain, portrayed by Charlize Theron, as this blockbuster film transports you around the globe and delivers some of the most epic stunts ever seen in this popular franchise.

© 2017 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

ドムは の女性に犯罪の世界に引き入れられ、抜け出 せなくなってしまう。

動物の3家族の物語を 追いかけ、観客を魅了す る作品。

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation and TSG Entertainment Finance LLC.

140

マクラーレン・モーター・ レーシングチームを創設 したブルース・マクラーレ ンの物語。

Power Rangers

A United Kingdom

Snatched

パワーレンジャー

ア・ユナイティッド・キン

スナッチド

The Boss Baby ザ・ボス・ベイビー

| 91 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Jonathan Levine CAST: Amy Schumer, Goldie Hawn, Joan Cusack

| 97 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Tom McGrath CAST: Jimmy Kimmel, Lisa Kudrow, Alec Baldwin

After being dumped on the eve of vacation, impetuous dreamer Emily Middleton persuades her cautious mother Linda to travel with her to paradise.

The most unusual baby arrives at the home of 7-year-old Tim wearing a suit and carrying a briefcase.

グダム

| 124 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Dean Israelite CAST: Dacre Montgomery, Naomi Scott, RJ Cyler

Chosen by destiny, five ordinary teens discover they are the only ones who can save the planet.

But to do so, they will have to band together.

5人の平凡なティーンエイ ジャーは超人的パワーを 発揮しなければならない。

LANGUAGES AVAILABLE:

| 111 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Amma Asante CAST: David Oyelowo, Rosamund Pike, Jack Davenport

The love of the king of Botswana and a white Englishwoman causes uproar in the late ’40s. セレツェ・カーマ王とルー ス・ウィリアムの愛は、国 際的な波紋を巻き起こし ていく。

JPN: Japanese

140-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT17.indd 140

CHS: Chinese

エミリーは母親を説得し、 楽園へと旅立つ。

最も赤ん坊らしくない赤 ん坊がスーツを着込ん で、7歳のティムの家にや って来た。

© 2017 MARVEL

© 2017 Disney Enterprises, Inc.

© 2017 Universal City Studios Productions LLLP.

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 2 ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギ

ャラクシー リミックス

| 136 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: James Gunn CAST: Chris Pratt, Zoe Saldana, Dave Bautista

The adventures of the Guardians of the Galaxy continue. 『ガーディアンズ・オブ・ ギャラクシー リミック ス』 では引き続きチーム の冒険を描く。

General

全年齢層鑑賞可能

Parental guidance recommended 保護者同伴推奨

Recommended for mature audiences 成人推奨

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

15歳未満非推奨。15歳未満は 保護者または成人の同伴が必要

Restricted to 18 and over 18歳以上観覧可

Check the classification

Check the classification 分類を確認のこと

ENG: English ENSUB: English subtitles ENCC: English closed captioning

9/08/2017 5:01 PM

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29/06/2017 11:40 am 15/08/2017 10:08 AM

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Wilson ウィルソン

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Craig Johnson CAST: Woody Harrelson, Laura Dern, Judy Greer

の強盗

| 96 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Zach Braff CAST: Morgan Freeman, Michael Caine, Alan Arkin

The Zookeeper’s Wife ザ・ズーキーパーズ・

King Arthur: Legend of the Sword

ワイフ

キング・アーサー

| 101 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Niki Caro CAST: Jessica Chastain, Johan Heldenbergh, Daniel Brühl

| 126 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Guy Ritchie CAST: Charlie Hunnam, Katie McGrath, Annabelle Wallis

A couple risk all to save Jews in WWII.

After pulling sword from stone, Arthur must fulfill his legacy.

Lonely, neurotic, middle-aged misanthrope Wilson learns he has a teenage daughter.

Buddies and retirees Willie, Joe and Al step off the straight-andnarrow for the first time in their lives.

ウィルソンは疎遠にな っていた妻と再会し、幸 せになるチャンスを手 にする。

生涯の親友であるウィ リー、 ジョー、 アルの3人 は退職生活に見切りを つける。

多大なリスクを負いなが らも、 アントニーナとヤン 夫妻は数百人のユダヤ 人を自由な地へと密航 させる。

アーサーはアイデンティ ティを奪われ、 自分が何 者なのか分からなくなっ てしまう。

Unforgettable

Suddenly Seventeen

In This Corner of the World

Keeping Up with the Joneses

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: JPN & ENS DIRECTOR: Sunao Katabuchi CAST: Non, Yoshimasa Hosoya

| 105 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Greg Mottola CAST: Gal Gadot, Isla Fisher, Jon Hamm, Zach Galifianakis

Kong: Skull Island

キングコング: 髑髏島 の巨神

| 118 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPS & CHS DIRECTOR: Jordan Vogt-Roberts CAST: Samuel L. Jackson, Brie Larson, Toby Kebbell

A diverse team of scientists, soldiers and adventurers unite to venture into the land of the mighty Kong. 科学者、軍人、探検隊か ら成るチームは協力し合 い、島の調査を行う。

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

142

Going in Style

ジーサンズ はじめて

アンフォゲッタブル

| 100 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Denise DiNovi CAST: Katherine Heigl, Rosario Dawson, Geoff Stults

Tessa is barely coping with her divorce when her ex-husband becomes happily engaged to Julia and moves her into the life they once shared. 離婚を受け入れられずに いるテッサだが、元夫は婚 約することになり…。

サドゥンリー・セヴンティ ーン （英題）

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: CHS & ENS DIRECTOR: Zhang Mo CAST: Ni Ni, Wallace Huo, Darren Wang, Ma Su

A piece of magical chocolate transports 28-year-old Liang back into the mind of her 17-year-old self. 不思議なチョコレートを 食べた女性は人生を台 無しにしてしまう。

140-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT17.indd 142

この世界の片隅に

A young Japanese woman named Suzu moves from Hiroshima to Kure to live with her new husband’s family during WWII. 第2次世界大戦中の広島 で結婚した18歳の少女 を描く。

MR.＆MRS.スパイ

A suburban couple discover their sophisticated new neighbours are really covert operatives. 平凡な夫婦は新しい隣 人とやっていくのは簡単 ではないことを知る。

The Accountant ザ・コンサルタント

| 126 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Gavin O’Connor CAST: Ben Affleck, Anna Kendrick, Jon Bernthal

Math savant Christian Wolff works freelance as an accountant for the world’s most dangerous criminals. 天才数学者のクリスチャ ン・ウルフは小さな町の 公認会計事務所を隠れ 蓑にして働いていた。

9/08/2017 5:01 PM

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9/08/2017 5:01 PM

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Brothers

マイ・ブラザー

| 105 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jim Sheridan CAST: Tobey Maguire, Natalie Portman, Jake Gyllenhaal

Brothers Sam and Tommy are nothing alike, but when soldier Sam gets shot down in war, Tommy vows to care for his family.

オースティン・パワーズ

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jay Roach CAST: Mike Myers, Elizabeth Hurley, Michael York

Special agent Austin Powers is woken from 30 years in cryogenic freeze to take on his nemesis, Dr Evil.

Everybody Wants Some!

Dear John

サム!! 世界はボクらの

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Lasse Hallström CAST: Channing Tatum, Amanda Seyfried, Henry Thomas

エブリバディ・ウォンツ・ 手の中に

| 117 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Richard Linklater CAST: Blake Jenner, Tyler Hoechlin, Wyatt Russell

Follows an ’80s college baseball team.

1980年、 テキサス。大 学1年の学生は野球部 の新チームメイトたちに 出会う。

親愛なるきみへ

John Tyree, a young soldier home on leave, falls in love with Savannah Curtis, an idealistic college student. 帰郷中の青年兵士は、 保守的な女子大生に恋 をする。

男は、 アフガニスタンで 行方不明になった兄の 妻を慰めるが…。

1960年代の秘密工作員 が最大の敵を倒すために 冷凍睡眠から蘇生した。

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory

カンフー・パンダ3

キャッツ＆ドッグス

ハッピー フィート

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Jennifer Yuh Nelson CAST: Angelina Jolie, Dustin Hoffman, Seth Rogan

| 87 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Larry Guterman CAST: Susan Sarandon, Tobey Maguire, Michael Clarke Duncan

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: George Miller CAST: Elijah Wood, Brittany Murphy, Hugh Jackman

Poor boy Charlie Bucket gets to tour Willy Wonka’s factory.

Po must help a village of his fun-loving, clumsy brethren become a band of Kung Fu Pandas.

Human owners remain blissfully unaware of a top-secret, high-tech war going on between cats and dogs.

貧しい少年チャーリー・ バケットは、 ウィリー・ウ ォンカの工場ツアーに参 加することになる。

父親と再会したポーは、 村に住む不器用なパンダ たちを訓練しなければな らない。

人間の飼い主が何も知 らぬ間に、犬と猫の間で 極秘ハイテクスパイ戦争 が勃発していた。

In the world of emperor penguins, young Mumble is born without the ability to sing. He is, however, the South Pole’s best tap dancer.

Behind The Candelabra

恋するリベラーチェ

| 118 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Steven Soderbergh CAST: Matt Damon, Scott Bakula, Eric Zuckerman

Scott Thorson, a young bisexual man raised in foster care, meets the flamboyant Liberace. バイセクシャルの青年スコ ット・ソーソンは、 エンター テイメント界の大物リベラ ーチェに紹介される。

© 2015 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

144

Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery

チャーリーとチョコレー

ト工場

| 115 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Tim Burton CAST: Johnny Depp, Freddie Highmore, Helena Bonham Carter

Kung Fu Panda 3

140-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT17.indd 144

Cats & Dogs

Happy Feet

皇帝ペンギンの世界に 音痴のペンギンが生ま れ…。

Happy Feet 2 ハッピー フィート2 踊る ペンギンレスキュー隊

| 117 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: George Miller CAST: Elijah Wood, Robin Williams, Hank Azaria

When the world is shaken by powerful forces, Master of Tap Mumble brings together the penguin nations. タップの達人マンブルは 息子のダンス嫌いに悩ん でいた。

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Entertainment I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

DRAMA SERIES

© 2016-2017 American Broadcasting Companies. All rights reserved.

COMEDY SERIES

Trial & Error トライアル＆エラー

ハンドレッド

The 100

Gotham

22 mins per episode, Season 8

22 mins per episode, Season 1

45 mins per episode, Season 4

45 mins per episode, Season 3

Follow the comical exploits of three families as they work out what it means to be a ‘modern family’. Phil and Claire struggle to keep up with their three kids, Claire’s dad is married to a feisty Latina woman while Jay’s gay son and his partner adopt a little girl.

A young lawyer on his first big case goes to a tiny Southern town to defend an eccentric professor accused of the bizarre murder of his wife.

Nearly a century after a nuclear war has wiped out civilisation, a spaceship carrying humanity’s only survivors sends 100 juvenile delinquents back to Earth to repopulate the planet.

Before Bruce Wayne grows up and becomes Batman, police detective James Gordon fights crime in corrupt Gotham City.

初めて事件を担当することにな った青年弁護士は、南部の小さ な街に向かう。

The Middle

3つのモダンな家族を描くコメ ディードラマ。

ザ・ミドル 中流家族のフツー

Fresh Off the Boat

22 mins per episode, Season 8

フレッシュ・オフ・ザ・ボート

22 mins per episode, Season 2

It’s the ’90s and 12-year-old, hip hop-loving Eddie just moved to suburban Orlando from Washington D.C.’s Chinatown with his parents and brothers. It’s culture shock for his immigrant family in this comedy about pursuing the American Dream.

1990年代を舞台に、郊外に引 っ越してきたばかりの12歳の ヒップホップ大好き少年エディ ーを描く。

The Big Bang Theory ビッグバン★セオリー

22 mins per episode, Season 10

の幸せ

アメリカ中西部に住む中流階級 の中年女性で、3人の子供を持 つ働く母であり、妻であるフラン キー・ヘックは、機転とユーモア のセンスを駆使して、 日々、家族 が正常に機能するように気を配 っている。

American Dad**

アメリカン・ダッド

22 mins per episode, Season 12

Misadventures of a gung-ho CIA agent trying to keep a leash on his hippie daughter and his odd suburban family, which includes an outer space alien and a pet goldfish who used to be an East German spy.

ペニーは、社会スキルが欠けて いる隣人たちに研究室の外の 世界を教える。

娘を支配しようとする、職務に 非常に献身的なCIA捜査官の 災難を描く。

ブルース・ウェインが成長しバッ トマンになる以前は、 ジェーム ズ・ゴードン刑事が腐敗したゴッ サム・シティで起こる犯罪に立ち 向かっていた。

Bones

BONES （ボーンズ） -骨は語る-

45 mins per episode, Season 12

Middle-aged, middle class and living in the middle of the country, Frankie Heck is a wife and working mother of three who uses her wit and sense of humour to get her family through each day intact.

Penny moves in across the hall from Leonard and Sheldon, two gifted but socially awkward best friends. She befriends the brainy duo and teaches them about life outside the science lab.

140-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_SEPT17.indd 146

文明を破壊する核戦争が起き てから約1世紀が経ち、唯一 の生存者たちを乗せた宇宙船 は、地球上で居住させるため に100人の不良少年たちをを 送り返す。

GOTHAM／ゴッサム

A darkly amusing hour-long procedural with humour, heart and character. Dr Temperance Brennan, a highly skilled forensic anthropologist, works with FBI Agent Seeley Booth on murder investigations when the standard methods of identifying a body are useless.

Arrow

ARROW／アロー

45 mins per episode, Season 5

A former playboy, who has just spent five years learning to survive on a desert island, returns to his hometown and decides to use his new skills to right wrongs as a masked vigilante. 砂漠の島で5年間かけて生き 残るスキルを学んだ元プレイ ボーイ。彼は故郷に戻り、 マス クを付けた自警主義者身とし て新しいスキルを使おうと決 意する。

ユーモアと愛情深い、味のあるキ ャラクターが繰り広げる、 ブラッ クユーモアの効いた1時間テレ ビシリーズ。通常の手法では遺 体の身元が確認できない殺人事 件の捜査で、有能な法医学者で あるテンペランス・ブレナン博士 とFBI捜査官のシーリー・ブース がチームを組む。

*FRESH OFF THE BOAT © 2015-2016 AMERICAN BROADCASTING COMPANIES. **AMERICAN DAD ©2016 FOX AND ITS RELATED ENTITIES. **BONES © 2017 FOX AND ITS RELATED ENTITIES.

146

Modern Family モダン・ファミリー

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Entertainment Explore I INTERVIEW I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

© Discovery Communications

Adrenaline

Oddbods

Horrible Histories

ワイルド・オーストラリア

オッドボッズ・ショー

ホリブル・ヒストリーズ

30 mins per episode

60 mins per episode

30 mins per episode

30 mins per episode

Amber Wyatt is taking you on a heart-pounding ride in search of the most remarkable toys on the planet and the most exciting machines you can buy. From an aircraft of the future to the most expensive car in the world and ultimate “man-cations” this show is your exclusive pass into the ultimate playground for men.

Australia is one of the largest and most extreme wildernesses on earth; a vast island of deserts, snow-capped mountains and lush rainforest. Here the world’s longestlived culture, Indigenous Aboriginals, have survived by observing and learning from nature.

Follow the adventures of seven adorable characters as they laugh, fool and trip their way through the most seemingly ordinary situations.

Follows the events of the Great Fire of London for its 350th anniversary.

アンバーとカールが2台のス ーパーカーで対決し、 自分た ちの能力を見せつける。

Travel Safe Not Sorry

トラヴェル・セイフ、 ノット・ ソーリー

45 mins per episode

How do you complete your bucket list – without kicking the bucket? Host Tobias Scott shows viewers how to take the fear out of trying new things while still enjoying adventure travel and extreme activities.

Whether it’s climbing a 100-foot ice wall, paragliding off a rocky cliff, or exploring underwater caves, we discover that some of the crazy things we’ve always wanted to try aren’t as crazy as they seem – as long as they’re done right. また、 トビアスはユカタン半 島を巡り、その地の奇跡を紹 介する。

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皆、何かしら変てこな個性を 持っているものだ。

Secret Lives of the Super Rich シークレット・ライヴス・オヴ・ザ・ スーパー・リッチ

30 mins per episode

Secret Lives of the Super Rich brings viewers face to face with some of the wealthiest people on the planet, revealing their voracious appetite for the best of the best and the secret to their extraordinary success. 地球上で最も裕福な人々を 紹介し、 とびきり最高のもの を求める飽くなき探究心と、 桁外れの成功の秘訣を明ら かにする。

ロンドン大火から350年目を迎 え、大惨事を振り返る。

Stuck in the Middle*

ハーレーはド真ん中

30 mins per episode

Harley Diaz navigates everyday life with a not-soaverage-sized family.

オーストラリアは世界で最も 広大で最も危険な自然を有す る国の1つだ。

ハーレー・ディアスが大家族と 送る毎日を描くドラマ。 © Disney Enterprises, Inc.

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Wild Australia

アドレナリン

The Lion Guard

ライオン・ガード

23 mins per episode

Kion, second-born cub of Simba and Nala, becomes the leader of the Lion Guard.

Star vs. the Forces of Evil** 悪魔バスター★スター・バタフライ

23 mins per episode

A fugitive princess from another dimension takes refuge on Earth. 異次元からやってきた逃亡中の プリンセスが、地球に逃げ込む。

Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy*** ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギャラクシー

シンバとナラの第二子である カイオンは、 ライオン・ガード のリーダーとなった。

29 mins per episode

Batman: The Brave and the Bold

ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギャラク シーは、強力な武器のありかを 示した宝の地図を発見する。

バットマン：ブレイブ＆ボー

ルド

30 mins per episode

Batman travels to the past and future, and teams up with fellow heroes. バットマンは過去や未来へと タイムスリップし、仲間のヒー ローたちと協力し合う。

The Guardians of the Galaxy find a mystical treasure map to a powerful weapon.

Star Wars Rebels ****

スター・ウォーズ 反乱者たち

23 mins per episode

A few brave individuals band together in resistance. 数人の勇敢な者たちが反乱者 たちとして団結する。

*STUCK IN THE MIDDLE © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. **STAR VS. THE FORCES OF EVIL © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. ***MARVEL’S GUARDIANS OF THE GALAXY © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. ****STAR WARS REBELS © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC.

KIDS

LIFESTYLE & REALITY

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Photo Credit|IG@sarahmbosworth

E S T. 1 9 9 9

W W W. M A D E I N E A RT H . C O M . A U L O S

A N G E L E S

-

M E L B O U R N E

-

D E L

M A R

@madeinearthofficial

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Entertainment Explore I INTERVIEW I AUDIO/GAMES I Available on 787 seatback screens

ALBUMS

Tash Sultana Notion EP タッシュ・サルタナ ノーション EP

Harry Styles Harry Styles ハリー・スタイルズ ハリー・スタ

イルズ

James Morrison The Great American Songbook

Empire of the Sun High & Low エンパイア・オヴ・ザ・サン ハイ＆ロー

Middle Kids Old River ミドル・キッズ オールド・リヴァー

Vera Blue Mended ヴェラ・ブルー メンディッド

The Property Couch ザ・プロ

パティ・コーチ

Fifi, Dave, Fev & Byron フィ

フィ、デイヴ＆フェヴ・ポッドキャスト

Carrie & Tommy キャリー＆トミ ー・ポッドキャスト

The Em Rusciano Radio Show with Harley Breen ザ・エム・ルチアーノ・ラジオショー・

Shane Nicholson Safe

ウィズ・ハーレー・ブリーン

アメリカン・ソングブック

シェイン・ニコルソン セイフ

Chrissy, Sam & Browny

Amy Shark The Night Thinker EP

Hailee Steinfeld Most Girls

ドキャスト

ジェイムス・モリソン ザ・グレイト・

150

PODCASTS & RADIO

エイミー・シャーク ザ・ナイト・シ

ンカー EP

LAH-LAH Having Fun

ラ・ラ Jハヴィング・ファン

John Williams John Williams & Steven Spielberg: The Ultimate Collection ジョン・ウィリアムズ ウィリアムズ＆

スピルバーグ：ジ・アルティメット・コレ

クション

ヘイリー・スタインフェルド モース ト・ガールズ

Imagine Dragons Thunder イマジン・ドラゴンズ サンダー

Meg Mac Low Blows メグ・マック ロー・ブロウズ

Bishop Briggs The way I do ビショップ・ブリッグス ザ・ウェイ・ アイ・ドゥ

MUSIC VIDEOS

HAIM Right Now

ジョナス・ブルー ft. ウィリアム・ シンジ ママ

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Kate, Tim & Marty ケイト、ティ ム＆マーティー・ポッドキャスト

The Grill Team ザ・グリル・チー ム・ポッドキャスト

Merrickville with Merrick Watts メリックビル・ウィズ・メリ

プレナー

Mini Meditations (Kids) ミ

ニ・メディテーションズ（キッズ）

Meditations (Adult) メディテ ーションズ（アダルト）

NOVA Hear the freshest hits on NOVA, hosted by Smallzy. オーストラリアからスマルジーが最 新ヒット曲をお届けします。

Smooth FM Chill out to these favourites. イージーリスニングプログラム。

GAMES

The Hot Breakfast ザ・ホット・ Hamish & Andy ハミッシュ＆ア ンディー・ポッドキャスト

Rove & Sam ローヴ＆サム・ポッ Tetris

テトリス

イル＆ジャッキーO・ポッドキャスト

Chess

チェス

Hughsey & Kate ヒュージー＆ケ

Bejeweled 2

イト・ポッドキャスト

Kinderling Conversation キンダリング・カンバセーションズ

We Fact Up ウィ・ファクト・アッ

Blackjack

w

ビジュエルド２

ブラックジャック ディ

Disney’s Classic Games

ズニークラシックゲーム

Golf Open

ゴルフゲーム

Hangman

ハングマン

ーム・ポッドキャスト

MemoPics

メモリーゲーム

Game On Australia ゲーム・オ

S.U.D.O.K.U.

ポケット

プ・ポッドキャスト

Lady Antebellum You look Good

The Slow Home ザ・スロー・ホ

レディ・アンテベラム ユー・ルッ ク・グッド

ザ・ディストラプティヴ・アントレ

ブレックファスト・ポッドキャスト

The Kyle & Jackie O Show カ

ザ・パニックス ホール・イン・ユア・

The Distruptive Entrepreneur

ック・ワッツ

Polish Club Divided

The Panics Hole in your pocket

Jonas Blue Ft. William Singe Mama

ィッパ・ポッドキャスト

ドキャスト

ィッド

クローヴス カリフォルニア・ナム

Fitzy & Wippa フィッツィー＆ウ

HAIM ライト・ナウ

ポリッシュ・クラブ ディヴァイデ

Cloves California Numb

クリッシー、サム＆ブラウニー・ポッ

Tash Sultana

ン・オーストラリア

Solitaire

数独 (SUDOKU)

ソリティア

9/08/2017 5:01 PM

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Backpage I TRAVEL TALES

Older and wiser A last-minute dash to the airport is no way to find your travel zen

152

A MIDDLE-AGED friend recently mentioned that she thought she was getting more conservative with age. It wasn’t a groundbreaking statement – hopefully we all get a little wiser as we get older – but it did give me pause for thought.

Certainly, over the years my politics haven’t changed, and my hairdo is still similar, but my travel habits? I concede, one in particular has done an about turn: my approach to airport timing. I used to really cut it fine. I mean really. Running from taxi to check-in, security and customs at a frantic pace, boarding the flight after ‘final call’ became a kind of sport. It underscored a belief that spending the least possible time in any airport amounted to some kind of achievement.

Sure, this bloody-travelmindedness has meant I’ve missed a few flights in my day. Years ago, I arrived at my sister’s 21st birthday dinner halfway through after missing a flight from Albury – I could see the plane on what passed for a runway, but they wouldn’t let me on. And again, in Taipei, I didn’t know which terminal to depart from so the taxi driver circled the airport in ever-increasing disorientation until my

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Running from taxi to check-in, security and customs at a frantic pace... plane actually flew over our heads. More recently I missed a connecting flight from Sydney to Singapore. So optimistic was the time I’d allowed between flights, I’d have needed a jet-propelled space-pack to get me from domestic to international.

My English father-inlaw is an early-to-airport kind of guy. I remember, a little guiltily now, telling him that my LON-MEL flight departed two hours later than it actually did so he wouldn’t drop us at Heathrow airport four hours before departure.

He found out en route to said airport and his blood pressure went sky-high.

So what has changed?

It’s hard to say. My bank balance is occasionally better off, but that’s not it. Maybe it’s the airports themselves. There’s

good coffee, more shops; they’re generally nicer places to be. But mostly, it’s the repose airport time offers. Once you’re checked in, bags loaded and customs attended to, there are really no expectations left. The airport becomes an inbetween world, where there’s no pressure to do anything but sit, wait, and think – a rare treat in the modern world. Funny that I haven’t worked it out until now. More conservative, no. Wiser, maybe.

ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

WORDS PENNY WATSON

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