Kowloonshire VOL.2

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KOWLOONSHIRE 製作成本 Cost of production | £3.5 NOVEMBER 2022 ・ ISSUE 2 01 02 03 專訪| 街坊燒味 專訪| 畫嘜 香港人小店目錄 KAI FONG SIU MEI DRAWMUD SHOP DIRECTORY Cover Story Cover Story HongKongers in UK KAI FONG SIU MEI DRAWMUD 專訪| 街坊燒味 專訪| 畫嘜 Cover Story Cover Story
00 01 02 03 04 05 06 團隊介紹 專訪| 街坊燒味 專訪| 畫嘜 香港人小店目錄 正嘢冰室 香港人小店目錄 飯戲攻心 "WHO ARE WE?" KAI FONG SIU MEI DRAWMUD SHOP DIRECTORY 1988 CAFE SHOP DIRECTORY TABLE FOR SIX Introduction Cover Story Cover Story p.3 p.4-8 p.9-10 p.11-20 p.21 p.22-23 p.24 HongKongers in UK Sponsored HongKongers in UK Sponsored CONTENTS
003 支持我們 團隊介紹 Who are we? 逃離香港前,作為前議員助理的我們一直 擔任在囚支援工作,緊密支援一班獄中戰 友和其他政治犯,來回法庭與監獄諷刺地 成為了我們的日常。 為我們共同的理想繼續走下去—— 是我 們逃亡後,在等待他日與一眾戰友再聚的 同時給自己的首要任務,我們的工作亦從 未因流離的生活而停止。 眼見香港有不少小店勇敢自發支持在囚 支援工作,讓不少手足在出獄後仍然能獲 得經濟上的支援。 來到英國,我們希望海外港人能夠再次 建立屬於自己的經濟圈(而非俾中超賺 晒),支持有心的香港人店主,並為牆內 戰友的未來生活未雨綢繆,實行香港人間 互助。 Support Us

“Hey I got some extra siu mei [various kinds of Cantonese barbecue] for tonight!” is a common thing to hear whenever you have dinner at a Hongkonger’s household. With that added to the table that is already filled to the brim with dishes, it marks the epitome of Hongkongers’ gatherings.

004 專訪| 街坊燒味 文:Zarna | 攝:Tobias KAI FONG SIU MEI
01 今晚斬咗料加餸啊。 家人和朋友圍坐,一張飯檯、 一圍飯餸、幾雙筷子,成了家 的中心。此時總有位親友正在 緩緩打開檯上的燒味外賣盒, 將黃色芥末和酸梅醬放在一 旁。搞掂,開飯!
“ ”
Cover Story

Table for Six, a movie to be released on 25thNovember in the UK, uses exactly the setting of dinner time for Hongkongers to center its own plot. It starts with three siblings and their partners living together and learning to inherit the family siu mei business. Scene after scene at the dinner table, it is the iconic spot for all relationship dynamics to play out. It is the memory of all Hongkongers to have had at least some sort of argument or resolving said argument at the dinner table with their loved ones.

For Hongkongers that are in the UK now, siu mei has become a rarity instead of something so easily found. Still, Hongkongers either try their hardest to make siu mei with pork belly from Tesco or discuss with friends where they can find the most traditional favour of siu mei in London.

005 將於本月25日在英國上映的 《飯戲攻心》,同樣也是以三 兄弟與他們女朋友住在同一屋 簷下的生活為背景,由傳承家 族燒味生意的爭辯展開劇情。 一幕幕在餐桌前的歡笑與爭 拗,展露了親情與愛情之間的 羈絆與衝突,勾起了每個人心 中不少似曾相識的回憶。
來到英國,香港人不再可以輕 易地隨街找到一檔燒味鋪然後 回家加餸。但無論是膽粗粗在 超市買嚿豬腩肉回家試整燒 肉,抑或與朋友討論哪一間餐 廳的燒味最正宗,我們還是不 時想尋找這種記憶中的味道。

Benny, who migrated to the UK last year, was inspired by this sentiment and decided to start up his own siu mei shop online, selling and delivering Peking Duck, roasted pork belly and all sorts of siu mei to any Hongkongers in the area.

Similar to Hung Chan ( 陳鴻 ) from Table for Six, Benny also has no past experience in the food industry, he has spent hours and hours learning about sourcing ingredients, getting the right tools and perfecting the recipe. He also learns from other Cantonese chefs that have long mastered the skills

of making siu mei. Hence, on the day of our visit to his factory in Reading, he smoothly pulled out a shiny and fragrant roasted duck from the oven, no wonder he has earned his reputation among Hongkongers for making the closest favour of siu mei in their memories.

006
去年移居英國的Benny,便是 因為這種自己「鐘意食好嘢」 又「怕冇啖好食」的心態,決 定開創「街坊燒味」,於網上 接單售賣自家製作的片皮鴨、 燒肉和叉燒等港式燒味。 跟《飯戲攻心》內從事攝影的 大哥(黃子華 飾)一樣,以往 不曾從事飲食業的他,由貨源、 器材到食譜,他花了不少時間 鑽研學習,並多番請教從事飲 食業多年的老師傅。採訪當天 我們便來到他位於Reading的 工房,看他熟習地從烤箱取出 色澤油亮的燒鴨,一股炭香味 直撲鼻端,也難怪他在港人圈 子中累積如此好的口碑。

Benny explained that most of his clients are Hong Kong families,

‘Whenever they invite a group of friends over, they would order a whole roasted duck to share.’

In time, siu mei has become almost like a party food here. From appearing at celebratory occasions at Chinese restaurants, to family and friends gatherings, siu mei sustains its crucial position in Hong Kong food culture, even if Hongkoners are miles away from home.

In Table for Six, Hung Chan has fought with Hei Chan

陳熹 ) over the the exact taste of siu mei that they wish to make. To Benny though, the best siu mei he has tasted is not from any proper Chinese restaurants,

is just a stall inside Yuen Long wet market, next to all the vegetable stalls, butcher’s shops and the like. Once you order, you can see the chef chopping it up and plating it right next to you. As you eat your own dish, you would still be smelling another new batch of siu mei coming out from the oven, reinforcing the taste of it in your mind."

007
Benny稱現時訂購的客人主 要為香港人家庭。 每當佢地邀請一班朋友嚟 屋企食飯,就會訂一隻鴨 一齊share。 不知不覺,燒味在這邊變成了 一種 "Party Food",由以往 大時大節在酒樓轉盤上必定出 現的燒味拼盤,到現在英國港 人的家庭朋友聚會中,燒味仍 然是港人飲食文化上不可或缺 的一道菜式。在《飯戲攻心》 中,大哥就曾經因為叉燒的味 道而和三弟(張繼聰飾)產生 爭拗。提到Benny眼中最正 宗的燒味味道,出乎意料地並 不是港人最常提到某幾間酒店 的中菜餐廳—— 我最鐘意去就元朗街市有 一間燒味鋪,喺最冇裝 修,鋪頭一邊喺賣燒味, 另一邊做堂食果種。點完 之後會即刻喺你面前斬燒 味,然後裝碗白飯,淋個 豉油汁,放喺你面前。一 邊食,就一邊望到啲燒味 一直喺隔離新鮮出爐。
” ”
(
“It

For any Hongkongers, Benny’s description is more than enough to trigger their own memories with siu mei and reminisce about the communal and straightforwardness back in their local restaurant or market, it is more precious than any favour one can find in a proper restaurant.

Benny’s current goal is to open a Caancaanteng [Hong Kong style local restaurant] in the UK. He has been working hard to prepare for such an endeavour. Just like Hung Chan in Table for Six, Benny insists on passing on the flame of Hong Kong food culture, as well as to create a space for

Hongkongers to gather and connect with each other. “I still think we need to better understand British food culture, and to discover new fusion down the road.”

A mere plate of siu mei, bears the power to tie different people together.

Even though each Hongkonger may remember the favour differently, the sentiment and nostalgia are the same. Living in a time of uncertainty, where farewell becomes the norm, the least Hongkongers can do is to cherish the siu mei in front of them and the time they have with each other.

008
即便從沒到過Benny口中的 燒味店,但從他細緻的描述, 整間店鋪的模樣已活現眼前, 仿彿還可以聽到街市中的叫囂 聲。原來名貴高尚的不一定是 最好,反而一種地道的本土味 道才最刻骨銘心,或許這一種 就是「街坊味」。Benny的 目標正是開一間帶有街坊味的 港式餐廳,並在落力為開店作 籌備工作。正如在戲中的大哥 堅執要將家族食譜流傳下去, Benny同樣有這一份傳承港式 飲食文化的執著,並希望可以 創造一個香港人可以相聚,連 結彼此的空間。他不忘提到, 「不過我地都要先了解本地飲 食文化,咁先可以做到互相兼 容、互相交流。」 一碟燒味,就是有一種威 力,即使每個人眼中理想的味 道或許不同, 但總能透過味道 的追憶把人們帶往一檯。 Haven Productions is a UK based international sales, production and UK distribution company, with a strong focus on Hong Kong films, telling stories of HKers. Haven於英國成立,專注製作及發行 香港電影,講香港人故事。 Sponsored by Haven Productions Ltd fb.me/havenproductionsuk instagram.com/ havenproductionsuk

Cover Story

If you go to Sa's instagram account, you would see a water painting of the old Hong Kong. As a graphic designer, Sa has migrated to Canada for years, and similar to other Hong Kong migrants, she retains a blurry memory of how exactly Hong Kong looked like. However, as

she scrolled past another account @hongkongd_ about past Hong Kong, it inspired her to draw out her remaining memory about her home, hoping that with brush strokes and water colour, she may help other Hongkongers relive and remember those bits and pieces that were forgotten.

009 專訪| 畫嘜 文:Zarna | 攝:Tobias DRAWMUD
02 打開阿Sa的 instagram 帳戶,會看到一幅幅她 以水彩所畫的舊香港。 從事graphic design 的 阿Sa本來已移居加拿近 十年,和很多移民人士一 樣,對於香港的記憶已經 非常模糊。但因為一次 偶然看到另一個公共帳戶 @hongkongd_ 有關香港 的作品,勾起了她對舊香 港的懷念和記憶。

Since it is challenging to look for information, let alone graphics, about Hong Kong in the past few decades, she has joined up with Hong Kong D, hoping to uncover the uniqueness of past and recent Hong

Kong, with inspiration from photographs of the past Hong Kong. Her Instagram account has been running since March, and viewers have given it waves of positive comments and encouragement. Hence, Hong Kong D and her have released a series of postcards with their artworks, hoping to prolong the collective memory of Hong Kong.

010
這因而啟發了她以自己的畫 筆畫出舊香港式情懷,讓香 港人重溫那些被遺忘和遺失 的事物。帳戶由三月經營至 今,網民的評價非常正面, 鼓勵了她繼續創作。由於在 網絡上難以找到舊香港的資 訊,所以她和Hong Kong D合作,以他們提供的舊照 片作為靈感來源,並於近日 推出了一系列香港明信片, 望能以畫作來延續港人的集 體回憶,呈現香港的獨特性。
1988 Cafe 正野冰室 In Common Breath 同呼吸 Jolly Notts Asian Foods 喜諾士多 Restaurant |食肆 Bookstore |書店 Grocery |雜貨店 35a
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