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10 expl o red rinks.com
WELCOME Welcome to Explore WHISKY magazine
Our cover shot highlights our American friends and the collaboration between Wild Turkey and actor
It is with great pleasure that I introduce to you the 2018
Matthew McConaughey. One of Hollywood's A-list,
launch edition of Australia's WHISKY magazine. Though it
McConaughey has himself been very hands-on in the
is not entirely new.
development of the new expression - Longbranch.
Explore WHISKY was, in fact, the first book in the Explore DRINKS series, released in 2012 before being republished in 2013 and updated again in 2014. It was a coffee table book that went through the distillation process, how to taste, glassware, whisky vocabulary and a general whisky 101. In 2018 Explore WHISKY returns as an annual whisky magazine for Australia, released each September perfect for Father's Day, Jack Daniel's 'official' birthday and Christmas. The pages of Explore WHISKY are bursting with the latest
Wild Turkey's master distiller, Eddie Russell, is touring Australia in September (as this magazine is released) so Explore WHISKY reached out to bring you both Russell and McConaughey's view on the all things whisky, and it's one we like a whole lot. Of course, we now have our own whisky offering with some seriously good Australian drops. Tasmania has become the spiritual home of Australian whisky, but producers on the mainland are also making their mark. Jump to page 174 to start your tour around the whisky isle - or over to page 76 to catch our chat with David Vitalie of Starward Distillery in Melbourne.
releases from around the world and the stories behind them, and when working through this publication, it was those stories that captivated our imagination and made this such a fantastic project to work on. We hope you will agree, it is the people and the stories behind the drinks that contribute so much to their appeal.
Just to make sure we know what we're talking about, our tasting panel examined 87 whiskies; all blind. Our panel was made up of professional tasters, industry experts, educators and writers. After the tasting was complete, we fielded some guesses from the panellists as to the identity of their highest rated drops, and the
This edition also features a focus on Dufftown - the 'malt capital of the world' and the heart of Speyside. Four days travelling the hills and glens around this region was never enough, but a wonderful experience none-the-less and a teaser to ensure a hasty return. I visited the new distillery at The Macallan which was quite literally breathtaking. A sizeable investment from Edrington, the owners of The Macallan, has given the master distillers and all who work there the Grand Designs of distilleries. Environmentally sensitive yet quite enormous, the distillery sits against the backdrop of the river Spey and surrounds and can almost go unnoticed.
results were eye-opening. Enjoying a great whisky is as much about the people you're with and the place you have it as the liquid itself. The overall experience is richer for the people and stories that go into every bottle. Travelling the world of whisky brings more enjoyment from every drop - so I encourage you to get out there and visit the distilleries, chat with the makers and breathe in the air. The range and innovation on show in the whisky world are both impressive and exciting as a whisky lover. The choice is there; it's just a matter of exploration.
The quality of the liquid coming from The Macallan has been uninterrupted, and the distillery came online earlier this year. Check it out on pages 102. Jumping across the Irish sea we've visited the land of the triple distillation and warm Irish hospitality - and plenty more stories - visiting castles and cutting-edge visitor centres.
~L Ash
exploredrinks.com
11
DRIKK RESPOKSIBLY.
CONTENTS 60
Whisky & Oysters, Simon McGoram
62
The Art Of Blending, Simon McGoram
66
No Oak No Whisky, Chris Middleton
72
Australian Whisky, Chris Middleton
78
Differentiate Or Die, Chris Middleton
82
Whisky Barrels, Stephanie Aitkins
86
Scotland The Brave, Charles Maclean
92
Dufftown - Seven Stills, Ashley Pini
138 A Rye Tale, Chuck Cowdrey 158 Emerging Whisky Producers, Ken Gargett 174 Tasmanian Journey, Fred Siggins
INSIGHTS 19
Insights, news and trends from the whisky world
FEATURES 32
Special and Rare - Ghost Distilleries,
178 Tassie Insider, Jane Sawford
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS SCOTLAND 40
Glenfiddich's Great Experiment
44
Ailsa Bay Launch
Ken Gargett
36
Special and Rare - High End Bourbon, Ken Gargett
46
Whisky & Cheese, James Buntin
56
Whisky & Chocolate, Ben Davidson
100 The Balvenie 102 The Macallan 106 Chivas Regal
exploredrinks.com
13
CONTENTS
112 The Glenlivet
170 Jameson Redbreast and Midleton
116 Glen Grant
172 Tullamore DEW
117 BenRiach 118 Abelour 124 Dewar's
AUSTRALIA 85
184 Lawren ny Estate 185 Belgrave
128 Jura
186 Devils
129 Dalmore
187 Hellyers Road
130 Muirhead
188 Corra Linn
132 Talisker
189 Bruny Island House Of Whisky
136 Scapa
189 Kil Iara
AMERICA
190 Overeem
142 Jack Daniel's
191 Lark
146 Buffalo Trace
191 Nant
154 Woodford Reserve
55
Ross Blainey, The Balvenie
64
Jim Beverage, Johnnie Walker
76
David Vitalie, Starward
98
David C Stewart, The Balvenie
Starward
126 Long morn
150 Wild Turkey
1~1~=1 1
192 Nonesuch
105 Colin Scott, Chivas Regal 110 Alan Winchester, The Glenlivet 122 Stephanie Macleod, Dewar's 134 Brian Macaulay, Scapa 152 Matthew McConaughey & Eddie Russell, Wild Turkey
165 Brian Nation, Jameson
!•l,JI~ 1a.; 38
Premium Mixers
so
Australia's Top Ten Whisky Bars
193 Old Kempton 200 Classic Whisky Cocktails
CANADA
194 Launceston
156 Pike Creek & Lot 40
195 Sullivan's Cove
214 Highballs 216 Whisky Cabinet
JAPAN
196 McHenry
160 Nikka
196 Sawford
IRELAND
197 White Label
164 Slane
197 Spring Bay
166 Jameson Redbreast and Midleton
199 Shene Estate
14 exploredrinks.com
-ES
H 1846-
Dewars~
\\BLE AG · FOREXTRA· SMOOTHNESS TRY OUR SIGNATURE
DEWAR'S HIGHBALL SERVEDWITH GINGER ALE
ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. DEWAR'S ANDITSTRADE DRESS ARETRADEMARKS.
CREDITS
DRINKS EDITORIAL
ADMINISTRATION
Publishing Editor I Ashley Pini
Accountant I Melinda Virgona
ashley@hipmedia.com.au
accounts@hipmedia.com.au
Associate Editor I Stephanie Aikins
PHOTOGRAPHY
stephanie@hipmedia.com.au
Ryan Stuart
DESIGN
Senior Designer I Raes Salcedo ryan@hipmedia.com.au
DRINKS
Drinks Curator I Ben Davidson ben@hipmedia.com.au
SALES I ADVERTISING
National Sales Manager I Tim Ludlow tim@hipmedia.com.au
Explore WHISKY is published by Hip Media
Other Hip Media titles include:
Explore DRINKS Explore WINE Explore COCKTAILS drinks trade magazine 169 Blues Point Road,
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To order your copy of explore visit: The views expressed in Explore WHISKY are of the respective contributors and are not necessarily those of the magazine or Hip Media. Copyright is held by Hip Media and reproduction in whole or in part, without prior consent, is not permitted.
16 exploredrinks.com
EXPLOREDRINKS.COM
Hip Media was the winner of Small Publisher of the Year at the Publishers Australia Awards of 2010
CONTRIBUTORS CHRIS MIDDLETON is a whisky writer and
Convinced he is a grave disappointment
works with the whisky and spirits industries. One
family; his mother once chastised him for drinking
in the hospitality and global spirits industries.
of the founders and a director of STARWARD,
Pol champagne, disgusted he'd drink anything
He has recently returned to Australia from
he was previously global brand director Jack
made by a Cambodian dictator. Now he mostly
London where he spent the past two and a half
Daniel's, with over thirty years in international
writes on wine and spirits plus a little on cigars,
years working with William Grants & Sons as
management
to his
JAMES BUNTIN has over 30 years experience
fishing, travel and food. When not writing, you'll
The Balvenie Ambassador
director of the Whisky Academy and a
find Ken fly-fishing for trout in NZ and bonefish
Before joining The Balvenie, James was the
regular contributor
roles. Chris is currently the
for the UK.
on the flats of Cuba; travelling; following a variety
Ambassador
publications. He works, drinks and thinks whisky.
of too-often dismal sporting teams - Queensland
Experience' an educational
Reds rugby, Washington Redskins, Arsenal and
showcasing the unique differences between
CHARLES MACLEAN is described by the
our once glorious cricket team.
Scottish, Irish and American whiskies. James
to drinks trade and other
Times of London as the world's foremost
for the 'International
Whiskey
tasting program
has also been the Ambassador
for Chivas
BEN DAVIDSON is one of Australia's leading
Regal, The Glenlivet, Royal Salute and
whose particular subject is Scotch whisky, about
drinks and cocktail experts. Former Cocktail
Glenfiddich
which he has published ten books to date,
World Cup Champion (2004), Australian
has presented thousands of tasting sessions and events and hosted several discussion
authority on everything whisky. He is a writer
including the standard work on whisky brands,
Bartender of the Year (2005) and Brand
Scotch Whisky and the leading book on its
Ambassador
subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were short-
year's experience behind bars, he is one of
listed for
the most knowledgeable
Glenfiddich
Awards.
of the Year (2013). With over 20
whiskies. Over his long career, he
panels educating
and entertaining
audiences
around the world.
spirits professionals
& culinary cocktail craftsman. In 2015 Ben
FRED SIGGINS is Strategy Manager for
CHARLES K. COWDERY is an internationally
launched his drinks consultancy business,
Sullivans Cove Distillery. He sets strategic
renowned whiskey writer, specialising
Bespoke Drinks, working closely with spirit
direction across all aspects of the business
American whiskey. He is a Kentucky Colonel
brands and cocktail bars as a strategic and
including sales & marketing,
(Patton, 206) and a member of the Kentucky
creative advisor and consultant.
infrastructure,
Bourbon Hall of Fame (2009). He is the author
Since 2016, Ben has been the Drinks Curator
product development.
of BOURBON, STRAIGHT: The Uncut and
and Spirits Writer for HIP Media publications.
of the hospitality
in
Unfiltered Story of American Whiskey (2004) and the producer/director
of the documentary
"Made and Bottled in Kentucky" a regular contributor
(1992). He is
to The Whisky Advocate
Black Pearl), chef, brand ambassador and
Ambassador
manager. He also writes regularly about bars,
for Diageo, based in Sydney.
Simon, an avid whisky enthusiast,
and publisher of The Bourbon Country Reader,
years as a bartender,
the only publication
consultant,
American whiskey. He lives in Chicago, Illinois.
A twenty year veteran
industry, he has worked as a
bartender (including three years at Melbourne's
in the beverage
exclusively to
digital
SIMON MCGORAM is the National Whisky
Magazine and WHISKY Magazine. He is editor dedicated
production,
branding, cellar door and new
has worked
pubs and drinks culture, and works as a private consultant and whisky educator.
industry for the past 17 bar owner/operator,
drinks magazine contributor
and
JANE SAWFORD, formerly Jane Overeem,
brand ambassador.
has been heavily involved in the Tasmanian
A former editor of Australian Bartender
whisky industry for over 10 years. Her whisky
BEN CANAIDER writes about drinking and high
magazine and contributor
culture, including wine, spirits, and beer and is
nationally syndicated
for Fairfax's
career began with her father Casey Overeem,
Executive Style, Simon's
also the author of six books on similar subjects.
knowledge
He is the drinks editor for GO Australia and
described as encyclopedic.
of beverage alcohol has been
ALPHA and writes for The AGE, SMH Online,
Before opening Neighbourhood
who taught her to distil at Overeem Distillery in 2007. In 2011 launching Overeem Single Malt Whisky, Jane very quickly built a large
Bar &
customer base and placed Overeem whisky in
Restaurant & Catering Magazine, VirginBlue's
Restaurant in Bondi (of which Simon is a
bars, restaurants and bottle shops around the
Voyeur Magazine and The Mumbai Trumpet.
co-owner), he was the New South Wales
country and overseas.
Brand Ambassador
for Diageo's RESERVE
In 2013 the Overeem family distillery was sold,
KEN GARGETT was born and bred in Brisbane,
brands. After four years of working on his own
and Jane became the sales and marketing
Queensland. A non-trendy, perfectly happy
businesses and working as a consultant for
manager at the newly formed company, Lark
childhood, in a family convinced alcohol
Diageo whiskies, Simon is now able to lend his
Distillery. In 2016, Jane and her husband Mark
meant instant condemnation to Hades. Law at
passion and knowledge
Sawford opened their own distillery, Sawford
for the category as the
Queensland Uni. On a break fishing on the Great
Diageo National Whisky Ambassador
Barrier Reef, someone opened a good bottle of
with Johnnie Walker, The Singleton, Talisker,
working
port and so commenced a serious obsession.
Lagavulin and Diageo's greater malt portfolio.
Distillery, where they are now in full production.
exploredrinks.com 17
WOODFORD
WOODFORD DIH IUU
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:he Wayof WhiskY Journeyaround J
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ANWfE ABOUT UAVJJ
BROO!f'S FABULOUS BOOK ON JAPANESJJ WHISKY Dave Broom is one of the world's leading
,
writers on spirits. His book, 'Rum', is essential ~
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for any fan and he has a series of manuals on
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various spirits, however his forte is whisky.
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BAROSSA WINERY SEPPELTSFIELD IS GETTING INTO THE WHISKY BUSINESS The lines bet ween wine and whisky have been blurred even further. The Barossa winery, Seppeltsfield, founded 167 years ago and famed internationally for its amazing 100-Year-Old
His latest, 'The Way of Whisky', is, as he sub-titles it, a journey through the world of Japanese whisky. It is a personal account of his travels throughout the islands of this exciting whisky nation, touching on the history, the people, the distilleries and so much more, while also offering tasting notes.
Para Tawny, has taken an interest in the spirits business Australian Whisky Holdings, listed on the Australian sto ck exchange (AWY). It has done this by way of loan conversi on into equity.
Personal it might be, but most importantly, this is an informative, educational book,
Seppeltsfield was part of the wine empire now known as Treasury Wine Estates, but was sold in 2007. The new owners have worked tirelessly on upgrading what is a must-visit winery in the Barossa regi on and expanding its range. Managing Direct o r (and largest shareho lder), Warren Randall, has also entered into a JV with the Minquan Jiuding Wine Company to open a $75 million Chine se chateau. It is believed that this will pave the way for expansion into the region for AWY There was already a link between Seppeltsfield and the whisky industry, as they have long been supplying aged fortified barrel s for maturing spirit.
which makes for thoroughly enjoyable reading. He is accompanied on his odyssey by photographer
Kohei Take, and together
they have created a beautifully presented book.
Between $50 to $60, depending on your source, this is the seminal tome on the
AWY has recently been in the news, after purchasing the assets of failed Tasmanian distillery Nant, as well as a taking over Lark Distillery, Australia's first whisky distillery, set up in Tasmania in 1992.
subject of Japanese whisky. Whether you are a long-term aficionado or taking your first sips, it is a must.
explored rinks. com 19
THE MACALLAN BREAKS ITS OWN WORLD RECORD WITH A 1926 BOTTLE FETCHING THE HIGHEST PRICE PAID FOR A SINGLE-MALT SCOTCH. Rare whisky is one of the hottest commodities on the planet at the moment. At the time of writing, a bottle of 1966 Bowmore sold overnight for almost $70,000. Chicken feed compared to some recent records, notably a pair of 1926 Macallan whiskies. They sold earlier this year at Dubai Airport for US$1.2m, bringing a whole new meaning to picking up a bottle of duty free on holidays!
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This famous whisky was bottled in 1986, after 60 years in sherry casks. Only 40 bottles were produced. 24 of the bottles <?- received special labels, a dozen each \ .designed by Sir Peter Blake and Valerio \, ""Adami. Even if the name, Peter Blake, \ does not ring a bell, there's a good chance you've seen some of his work. He designed th ~ 1~over of the Beatles' 'Sgt Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band'.
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' some debate about whether There is' these bottles were ever sold, or were simply given to the distillery's favoured customers. The last time one appeared at auction was in 2007, when it went for US$75,000. At US$600,000 each, they did not uite i the world record for malt whisky- HK$4.9m (US$628,000) for another Macallan, their 'M Imperiale'. In fairness, the Imperiale contains six litres, more than 8 ½ standard bottles.
CaskNi263
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blending. Change was in the air, as a new team, in awe of the incredible old stocks held at the distillery, started offering these whiskies in bottle. It was during this period they discovered the old sherry cask, Cask No. 263 from 1926, quietly maturing away in a corner of the distillery and gave it a go. It yielded 40 bottles. Blake was encouraged to design the label for the first dozen bottles. In 1993, Macallan's Italian distributor wanted to repeat the exercise, and Valerio Adami was commissioned to design labels for a further 12 bottles. The remaining 16 bottles, you ask? Two were sold at auction in 2001 and 2002 under blank labels, so that the new owners could design their own. They were records at the time - £15,000 and £18,000 respectively. It seems that the rest, or most of them, were released as part of the Vintage Macallan program in 2003, priced at £20,000 a bottle. And what has been their fate? Some have apparently been drunk, but who knows exactly how much. Rumour has it that a dozen were destroyed by the earth uake that hit a an in 2011. We may never know.
Scotland does not have all the glory . • A recent auction at Bonham's _saw the hammer fall for a 1960 Karuizawa, Hold the proverbial phone - these records - 52-Year-Old 'The Dragon' at a hefty lasted barely the time it might take to HK$2.45m (US$312,130), the highest enjoy a top bottle of whisky. In May price ever achieved for a Japanese this year, Bonham's in Hong Kong sold whisky. It was bottled in January 2013, a similar pair, the 1926 Macallans with much younger than the Macallan, and the Blake and Adami labels, for more production is slightly higher at 41 bottles. than US$2m. First up, the Blake went for HK$7.96 million (US$1.01 million). Needless to say, this is not over yet. By Moments later, it was relegated to second the time you read this, it is almost certain place with the Adami exceeding that, that all these records will be smashed, as tipping the scales at HK$8.63 million. Sotheby's will soon be offering yet another of the 1926 Macallans with the Sir Peter Some history. Apparently, back in the Blake label - bottle 9 of 12 . 1980s, the Macallan distillery did not enjoy the near-legendary status it holds today, offering primarily malts for
•
20 exploredrinks.com
TRENDS
72-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT IS THE MACALLAN'S OLDEST WHISKY EVER RELEASED, PRICED AT $65,000 Macallan has a peerless reputation for offering superb agt·d whiskies as prestige releast•s. To celt•brate their new l"SS225 million distillerv and visi1or c1·n1re. which adds 48 stills idl'ntical to the 36 already in opl"ra 1ion. the brand is releasing the oldest whisky it has l'\ Pr bo1 tled - a 72-YearOld 111alt.in an exquisite decan1t·r fro111Lalique, dubbed the 'Genesis Decanter'. The packagt• comes in an elegant presentation case. This new dis1 illny. with its increased production ability, will ensun, 11,a1 fu111rc generations will see 111orr·of these gems, but tlll'y will liave to bide their time. Onh 600 of these decanft>rs ha,1· bPt•n made for worldwidt· distribution. They will be rdt·ast·d in September 2018. at a pricl' of CS$65.000 each. Hand-blown. the idea is to reflect the gentle , rolling hills found in tl1t• Speyside region where the new distillery is located. The whisky it contains, an extr emely rare malt which was distilled back at the time of World War TT. has received rave reviews (as one would hope for such a price tag).
MINIATURE BOTTLE OF 1937 THE MACALLAN SINGLE MALT HAS BEEN SOLD FOR £3,300. To 11ws1of us, miniatures are not really considered to offer 1111whhang for your buck. Hotel mini-bar rip-offs, most of tl1t,111.No doubt, a Glasgow couple had a similar inclination las1 year when they went to toss a couple of old miniatures in1o the bin. At the last moment, they had second thoughts and decided it might be wise to check. Their 'small', in every way~ collection sold at a1u:1io11for £2.100 with a tiny 'bottlP ' of '20 Under Proof' Laphroaig going for £830. Tl,a1 figure was expected to be left in the dust at a n,cen1 auction where a miniature of Macallan 1937 Fi,w & Rare Aged 32 Years (distilled in 1937, bottled in 1969. then rebottled in 2002) was coming up for sale. Esti111ates thought it could go as high as £1.000. Estimates wen~ wrong. It went for £3,300. It was the first occasion this whisky had come np for auction. Macallan's Fine & Rarl' selection is well known as offering some rarely st't·n whiskies, the 1926 a famous example (the series ran np to releases from 1991). It was purchased by an Italian collector who presumably will 1101be tossing it in l,is rnhhish.
THE BRISBANE He has a crater on the moon named after him, along with one of Australia's great cities . He was a close friend of the Duke of Wellington and, after joining the militar y at the age of 16, served in the West Indi es, Ireland , Ameri ca, India and throughout Europe. Fa scina t ed by the stars, he built one of Scotland's earliest ob ser vatories, and personally funded the Parramatta Observator y in NSW In 1821, he took over from Lachlan Macquarie as Governor of the Colony of N ew South Wal es, working hard to improve the young settlem ent. And now, the Scottish soldier, Sir Thomas Makdougall Brisban e, ha s a whisky as well. 'The Bri sbane ' is th e fourth in the intriguing seri es of Fu sion Whi skies , a concept established originally in Edinbur gh to celebrate the link s b etween Scotland and other nation s, and to commemorate the rol e played b y famous Scots in th e hi story of those countries. Th e first, the 'Glover', wa s a tribute to Thomas Glov er, who played a key role in th e ea rly days of trade with Japan. Th e ' Kincardine' acknowl edg es the 'Walking Viceroy' Vict or Bruce , who worked tirelessly in India. 'The Wint er Qu een', the third in the series, recognises the legac y of th e Scottish prin cess, Elizabeth Stuart, who spent mo st of h er lif e in Th e Hague , The Netherlands. In eac h case, whisk y from Scotland was blended with whisky from the nation to whi ch the tribute is offered. Produ ction varies considerably. A uniqu e concept and a brilliant on e. 'The Brisbane' is a bl en d of two sherry hogsheads di st ill ed at Glen Garioch in th e Highland s, a portion from anoth er sh erry butt distilled at Glen Grant and three ex-apera casks (ap era is our name for what was once known as sherry) dist ill ed at th e Starward Di still er y in Melbourne. Onl y 932 bottl es were produced , as a five- yea r-old malt at 57.5%. A lovely tribute to th e m an who oversaw the repeal of an ea rly attempt at prohibition in the Colony. exploredrinks.com
21
$10,000 WHISKY DRAM THAT TURNED OUT TO BE WORTHLESS Some might suggest that anyone who pays $10,000 for a sip of whisky almost deserves this, especially if he is only in his 30s, but that would be a touch harsh. Zhang Wei has made his fortune from writing martial arts fantasy stories, but he still goes on holiday with his grandmother, on this occasion, to St Moritz in Switzerland. Amongst the many rare whiskies at the Hotel Waldhaus Am See was a bottle of 1878 Macallan, supposedly the last remaining bottle of this malt left on the planet. Who wouldn't want to try it? The hotel, which has around 2,500 whiskies in its collection, had purchased the bottle several decades earlier and originally told Mr Wei that it was not for sale. Mr Wei was keen, as the bottle was the same age as his grandmother's
grandmother (or would presumably be, if she was still with us). So, the manager rang his father - this really is a family story - who was manager of the hotel at the time of the purchase of the Macallan. He said it was time to open it, although they were hardly giving it away at ten grand a dram. Unfortunately, it just didn't Naturally, Mr Wei blogged. detectives were soon on the manager was keen to know
as well. Oxford University performed carbon dating and, with the assistance of experts, Rare Whisky 101, was deemed to be around a century younger than presumed and unlikely to be a single malt (just a blended Scotch with 60% grain). It was suggested to be worth around $300,000 less than its estimated value of $300,000.
seem right. The whisky job. The the truth
The manager, to his credit, was on the next plane to China to apologise and provide a full refund.
ABARREL FULL A few words on the use of barrels
The process of preparing
in making whisky. Fat chance. A few
plays a role - seasoning and heating
the oak
words? You could write books on this
the staves. This helps draw out some
topic. It is absolutely crucial to the
of the flavours that the barrels will
whisky in your glass and will help define
impart to the whisky. These flavours
your preferences almost as much as
vary considerably
any other factor in the production
vanilla, caramel, creaminess, even
of
your favourite drop. Oak barrels rule.
- toast, butterscotch,
coconut, spices, smoky notes, and so
Oak has proven itself over the centuries
much more. The oak is also considered
and nothing else has come close.
to draw out some of the undesirable elements in the young spirit.
Oak barrels act not only as a container for the whisky in which it may mature,
There are so many more matters to
often for many years (at the very least,
consider in this. Various types of oak,
three years to legally become whisky),
the different treatments
but they also impart character/flavour
different forests, age, growth rate of
and impact the colour. Traditionally, the
the oak, size of the barrels, charring,
barrels used are those which were once
method of drying the oak before it is
employed amontillado
as home to sherry - fi no, or oloroso, depending
they receive,
made into barrels, previous contents .. do you need more?
on what the blender is seeking - or bourbon.
Never underestimate
the importance
of oak and the contribution Oak isn't perfect - contents of the barrels evaporates over time, the lost quantity earning the moniker, 'the angels' share'.
22 exploredrinks.com
your whisky.
it makes to
TRENDS
GLENFIDDICH SNOW PHOENIX From the ashes .. or in this case, from many
course, devastated
feet of snow.
got to work and created a legend.
at the destruction
but they
of this whisky have been extremely positive, confirming
that this was, despite the great
name, far more than a marketing gimmick. The winter of 2010 was a fierce one and the
The Malt Master and Distillery Manager got
Glenfiddich
together
distillery felt the full force of nature.
and selected, from the remains, some
Four of their warehouses collapsed under the
of the best old casks across a range of ages,
weight of the build-up
from 13 to 30 years. Some had previously held
The temperature
of snow on the roofs.
had dropped
to minus 19°C
oloroso sherry and others were made from
as two winters worth of snow fell in a short
American oak, first and second fill bourbon
time. It was estimated that the roofs in part of
barrels. The final blend came in with a strength
the distillery were carrying the weight of a herd
of47.6 per cent.
It comes in a tin box which has a brilliant image on it of a phoenix arising through the devastated
warehouse roof. No wonder that
even empty tins are collectors'
items - the last
one on eBay was on offer for just under US$300. Meanwhile,
bottles, originally released at
under $100 or thereabouts,
now go for around
A$1,200 each.
of elephants. There were some quarter of a million casks in those warehouses and the team
Naturally, it is a one-off limited edition (at least,
managed to save all but a couple (chill filtering,
I'm sure the team hope it will never need be
anyone?). The team at Glenfiddich
repeated) with 12,000 bottles released. Reviews
were, of
exploredrinks.com 23
EXPLORE As a kid, I loved those old black and white film noir detective thrillers where Humphrey Bogart or Robert Mitchum would, inevitably, end up in a bar somewhere - usually with hat and trench coat still on - drowning their sorrows . If it wasn't a straight shot of whiskey (rye or bourbon), then it was a boilermaker . I had no idea what a boilermaker was, but if these blokes were drinking them, then they must be cool. At the time, I thought the epitome of being an adult was to sit in a dimly lit bar by yourself, knocking back boilermakers . To be fair, I was only seven or eight. Many years later, when I could legally sit in one of these bars had I wished to, I discovered that a boilermaker was an American beer/whiskey cocktail basically a mix of the two. It seemed a rather odd mix, neither one thing o r, the other and possibly a waste of oot f;). WORDS KEN GARGETT
,, '.Ji ,,,._,,,I
PHOTOS BOILERMAKER HOUSE
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TRENDS
Naturally, as alcohol is involved, there are various permutations
and combinations,
and
aficionados will swear blind that theirs is the only way a boilermaker
should be consumed.
Some mix the two; some prefer to follow their beer with a shot of whisky. Others use the beer as a chaser, though if that is your preferred method, anything less than knocking off the entire whisky in a single go is considered poor form. A further version on mixing the two is the 'depth charge', where the entire shot glass is dropped
into the beer. Others sip from a beer,
slowly replacing the consumed portion with their whisky. There are numerous other spirit/beer Boilermakers originated
in Butte, Montana in
the 1890s, where they were first known as a
pairings
they are, in general, both the result of grains,
brandy and others all feature.
yeasts and water. Indeed, there is an argument
Sean O'Farrell (other names included 'citywide specials' and 'two-steps'). miners on completion
They were served to
of their shifts.
some similarities between beer and whisky-
around the globe - vodka, gin, Korean soju,
that you could call whisky 'distilled
beer'.
The first recorded appearance of the boilermaker
in Australia was shortly after the
Brewers have taken advantage of the potential
Second World War, in Kings Cross, where the
pairing by using casks from various distilleries in
England had its own version but that was
newspapers of the day noted its consumption
which to age their beers and ales. Harviestoun
usually a mix of a couple of different types of
at a party given by a local 'theatre artist',
Ola Dubh 18 spends time in casks from
beers/ales. The Scots have a 'half and half',
Mrs Littlejohn. It must have made quite the
Orkney's Highland Park Distillery. Tennent's have
which involves enjoying the beer next to a
impression as the legend insists that Mrs
used Speyside Single Malt Whisky infused oak
whisky, moving back and forth between the
Littlejohn woke up the next day, under a rug.
for flavour. The BrewDog Paradox Jura is aged
two. The Irish have the delightfully
Now that might not seem so extreme, but the
in casks previously used for Isle of Jura whisky.
Car Bomb, in which Irish Cream and whiskey
rug was on the deck of an American trawler
There are numerous examples. Even wine
are mixed in a shot glass, which is dropped
headed for New Zealand.
named Irish
has got into the act, with the Jacob's Creek
into a stout. And you can bet that someone
'Double Barrel' spending time in standard wine So is all this merely a way to get alcohol into the
barrels, followed by a stint in old whisky barrels.
a better way," for everything here. Such is the
system as quickly as possible or is there more
The advertising
way with cocktails the world over.
to it? In fairness to the combination,
Hemsworth - perhaps they drink it on Asgard.
somewhere is immediately
saying, "no, there is
there are
uses narration from Chris
exploredrinks.com 25
Needless to say, if a human is combining two items to eat, drink or even to just consider, someone else will be experimenting to see if they can raise that match to a higher level. No longer is beer and whisky an end-ofday wind-down the boilermaker
drink with mates. Nowadays, is a form of art. Now, it is
a culinary and gustatory experience and there are, of course, as any quick glimpse at the internet will reveal, more possible combinations,
Horatio .. Those miners in Butte
would be so proud. Or confused.
malt-flavoured
one. Blended whiskies? So many
varying styles mean endless options. Some possibilities? A blended Canadian rye
brine beers which allow one to replicate the Pickleback - a shot of whisky immediately followed by a sip of pickle brine.
with either a rich stout or a ginger-flavoured
Personally, think along the same lines as
beer. An Irish whiskey with a touch of nuttiness,
you would when matching food and wine.
like Jameson, with a nutty brown ale, but if you
Consider the weight of each, as it always
mixologist,
prefer an easier style of Irish whiskey, a lighter
helps to ensure that they are not out of
why not put them to the test? Pick a whisky or a
wheat beer might be the go. Your favourite
alignment - light with light, heavy with heavy.
beer and see what they can come up with (and
Islay malt with a smoky German rauchbier -
Comparable
rauchbier uses grains smoked over beechwood
common way to go and likely to be the most
so that should make it an ideal match for those
successful. Smoky with smoky, chocolate with
alluring peaty malt whiskies from Islay (yes,
chocolate (so a rich stout with a caramel-
The traditional
I fully understand those who might feel that
flavoured bourbon might be worth a shot) and
far from the realms of the blue-collar bar, and
simply enjoying your favourite Islay unadorned
fruity with fruity. And so it goes.
some of our trendiest establishments
flavours is the easiest and most
is not the worst thing that will ever happen). A pale ale with a corn-dominated
Kentucky
Next time you encounter a barman (or if they think they are really good),
if you are not sure about the results, ask yourself what would Bogie think). boilermaker
now finds itself
Then, take a risk and try for contrasting
Boilermaker House in Melbourne for example,
matches. This is more difficult but can be
is the Mecca - devoted to this very pairing.
bourbon (worth noting that a number of those
rewarding - think Roquefort and Yquem. Some
who specialise in matching beer and whiskey
swear by a fresh, light beer with a heavy, smoky
suggest avoiding IPAs as they rarely work). The
Islay whisky. If you wish, you can experiment
combinations
fruity style of Speyside whiskies might appeal
for the rest of your life. If you think that you
them with food. Or if you are George
to a more fruity beer or perhaps a strongly
might ever go too far, one can now find pickle
Thorogood
26 exploredrinks.com
pride
themselves on their versions of boilermakers.
Of course, once you find some good then the next task is to match - a bourbon.
ExploreWhiskyat
WHISKYLIVE
Australia'sPremiereWhiskyTastingEvent Whisky Live is the whisky tasting event of the year. Held in 6 cities across Australia it offers a huge assortment of fine whiskies and spirits, all open for sampling. Whisky Live gives you the opportunity to try before you buy. Whether you're a whisky novice or can identify a brand in a blind tasting, there'll be something for everyone. Come and explore whisky at Whisky Live!
Tickets online now : whiskylive.com.au
Sydney Melbourne Perth Adelaide Canberra Brisbane
AUSTRALIAN WHISKY SELLS FOR HIGHEST EVER PRICE AT AUCTION - A BOTTLE OF SULLIVAN'S COVE WENT FOR $11,000. The Australian whisky industry has come of age. The small Tasmanian producer, Sullivan's Cove, has achieved the highest price ever seen under the auctioneer' s hammer for a bottle of local whisky - a whopping $11,000 (more correct ly, £6,600). Proceeds went to a children's char ity. Eleven grand might not compare with the massive amounts some of the very o ld and extremely rare whiskies are attra cting, but for a much younger maker and whisky, it is extremely impressive and shows just how seriously Aussie whisky is now seen by aficionad os. The auction was held by Christie's in London, and the bottle in question was the Sullivan's Cove Amer ican Oak Single Cask #H H0351. No do ubt, much of the attention came as this whisky wo n the World's Best
PRESTIGE WHISKIESADER4TE The best of the best'? Welcome to the most subjective and debate-provoking topic in the world of whisky. One man's 'prestige' bottle is another's mouthwash. In fact, there isn't even a recognised category for these whiskies. It is whatever vo11 dt•cide it is.
Sing le Cask Single Malt at the 2018 World Whiskies Awards. The whisky was distilled in June 2000, spent its life in a 200- litre American oak ex-bourbon barrel, and was bottled in January 2017. Only 136 bottles were ever made - this one was number 88. It came in a handmade Tasmanian Blackwoo d display box. Until the auction, it had never left the dist illery. As the world wakes up to the quality of our whiskies, don't expect this record t o last for long.
28 exp lo red rinks.com
Is it simply tlw top regular production whisky made by a producer? Their oldest? Most expensive? Rarest? Could it be a one-off li111ited edition? Or just make up your own rules, but remember, preferences vary enormously. If, for example, you an· a Highlands devotee, you'll likely opt for one of their standards ahead of what might be seen by others as so11wthing special from another region.
Explore some of the reviews on the int er net for regular production stars - I read that some authorities say you won't find better than the Lagavulin 16-Yt•ar-Old. Hard to argue. Otlwrs opt for the Glenmorangie Signet , a not her supt•rstar and whisky I love. Otlwrs would legitimately insist that it 11111st be the standard Ardbeg 10-Yt~ar-Old (big smile here, even thinking about it). A111I exposing my Islay adoration? And this without even stepping foot beyond the borders of Scotland. I have no doubt that everyone reading this has aln·ady said to themseh ·es, but what about ... Flagship whiskies'? If ever tht~n· was a case of beauty in the eye of tlw beholder.
TRENDS
COULD AN IRISH WHISKEY SHORTAGE BECOMING? WORDS KEN GARGETT If Irish whiskey is your preferred tipple, you
OR MORE LIKELY (DEFINITELY) A
might be in for some tough times. The
JAPANESE WHISKY SHORTAGE?
impending
shortage of Japanese whisky is
well-documented,
but a lack of the finest
from Ireland has received less coverage.
A friend of mine from a past life, when I worked as a lawyer, recently turned up for a visit. I first met him at a firm in London
John Teeling has issued the warning and
He has recently been working in Japan. He
Back in the mid-1850s, Irish whiskey
very kindly arrived with a bottle of whisky
accounted for approximately
THE WHISKY AND DREAMS - AUSTRALIAN WHISKY FESTIVAL. Whisky lovers residing in Melbourne are fortunate. In March this year, they had the opportunity to greatly expand their horizons with the 'Whisky and Dreams' Festival. It was the third incarnation - the event was previously known as 'Independent's Day'. Sixty-five bucks will get you a decent bottle of whisky, or it allowed you entry to the event held at Starward's Port Melbourne distillery, and the chance to look at around 150 different products. Guests also had the prospect of talking to the people behind the whiskies, and to attend various masterclasses with international experts. It was a two day event spread across four sessions. The whiskies on offer included local products, as well as those from around the globe. Among the international guests were Dave Broom (yes, he of the brilliant new book on Japanese whisky, as well as numerous others) and Charles MacLean. Alex Bruce, the man behind 'The Brisbane', the first official Scotch-Australian whisky blend out of Scotland, was also in attendance. Around 500 whisky lovers attended each session. Keep an eye out for future festivals, as they are a terrific way to immerse yourself in great whisky, taste many you might not have seen before and to learn more about this great spirit.
many years ago, and we have kept in touch.
if anyone would know, this is the man. 60 per cent
as a gift-
a malt from the Highlands. Most
of the world market. There were literally
welcome, of course, but it seemed odd to
hundreds of distilleries. Then came the
bring a Scottish whisky from Japan. Handing
collapse, down to a monopoly
it to me, he apologised.
and less than
2 per cent of sales by the 1970s.
There simply was
not a decent bottle of Japanese whisky at the airport, he explained. Not one.
Teeling undertook a doctorate
at Harvard
in the early '?Os and studied this collapse.
It speaks of the massive problem facing
His conclusion? Time for a new distillery,
the Japanese whisky industry. They are
though it took some time to achieve (in the
simply exhausting stocks of aged material.
meantime, he lectured at Dublin University
It hit home to a wider audience earlier
and also founded a number of mining
this year when Suntory stunned its fans by
exploration
companies). He is often credited
as the man who saved the Irish whiskey
announcing that they were withdrawing the single malt, Hakushu 12-Year-Olds,
industry and is a whisky hall-of-famer. Now,
and blended whisky, Hibiki 17-Year-Old,
he sees dangers ahead.
from their portfolio.
They just can't make
it anymore and they had previously done In 1986, he re-opened Kilbeggan,
Locke's Distillery in
naming it 'Cooley', and installing
the same with their Kakubin Black Label 43 Degrees, in 2016. Termination of the
both column stills and pot stills, in order to
17-Year-Old will devastate Bill Murray and
provide a wide range of whiskies. It took
his fans, as this was the whisky he made
until the new century for sales to hit the
famous in the 2003 film 'Lost in Translation'.
mark, but Irish whiskey was back. Beam
They simply cannot make and mature stocks
Suntory bought the distillery in early 2012,
as quickly as is needed. Some distilleries are
but Teeling's sons have kept the flag flying,
attempting
opening Dublin's only operating
moving from whiskies with age statements.
distillery,
to get around the shortages by
the Teeling Whiskey Distillery. We are already seeing many retailers limiting The problem for the Irish industry is that
sales to a bottle or two of some of the more
there is simply a lack of aged malt, and
popular Japanese labels. It is such a shame
only time can cure that. The explosion in
for the industry, as their products have
popularity
never been more in demand or more highly
of Irish whiskey-
it has been
growing at more than 10 per cent per
regarded. Production is being ramped up,
annum in 75 countries for some time -
but, as with Ireland, time is needed for the
meant that reserves have nearly been
making and maturation of their whiskies.
exhausted.
Estimates suggest that the shortage could last 10 years.
So, Irish aficionados might find themselves disappointed
in the coming years. Even
No wonder prospective
and wannabe
worse, they will not be able to turn to Japan
distillers are turning to gin. Distillery to
to alleviate their woes, as that nation has
dollars in months, not decades.
similar problems.
exploredrinks.com
29
Whisky is the gift that can last a lifetime, starting a journey that can bring people together and provide time to contemplate
life's
vagaries. Either way, the right whisky can be the start of something beautiful.
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SCOTLAND'S and · like something involving Captain· J ac k_ Sparrow . Ghost distilleries ; sounds more d dignified world of fine whisky h h the more gentee I an f barrels of rum, rat er t an · more and more important or a eal and becoming nd rom Scotla . They are very r · · t · fine wh isky has even seen pans 1 · easing 1nteres 1n range of reasons. The ever-incr f ous ghost d istiller ies, such as Port th Of · e of the more am _ but som man g hosts as any horror movie, o r e re-opening y_ Ellen an d Bro ra . Be assured Scotland has as
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these ~are g hou Is you hope to encounter.
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So what is a ghost distillery? Basically, a once working distillery, sometimes much loved
still potentially
and highly regarded, which, for whatever reasons, has closed its doors.
of very fine whisky quietly maturing away in barrels.
Now, in most industries, that would be it. Game over. The best it could hope for would be a mention in some nostalgic trivia competition. If a shoe factory shuts, it is unlikely that shoe aficionados (are there such people?) will seek footwear from the closed establishment decades later. Not so with whisky. Remember that it takes at least three years before the glorious nectar in barrel can even be called whisky, and any decent distillery worth the name will have many barrels of much older material. So when business stops, there is
3 2 exp lo red rin ks .com
significant quantities
It can be sold for blending, but often it continues to mature and is eventually
see if you can find anything under several thousand dollars a bottle - if you can find them at all. It hardly makes sense. If all this whisky is in such demand and so highly valued, why close? Many reasons, of course.
bottled as special releases. Or possibly included in something very limited and exciting - the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare is the perfect example. And of course, there will also have been
great whisky, it is hard to imagine that
bottles from the closed distillery which are
there are times when supply far exceeds
already on the market. They will immediately become collectors' items and highly prized. Prices escalate enormously. Search the
demand and many distilleries are simply not economical, let alone profitable
internet for prices of old bottles from the Brora and Ellen Port distilleries, two ghost distilleries which both closed in 1983 and
During a period such as this, where there is extensive and intense interest in
Brora is the perfect example.
Its success
caused its downfall, as detailed elsewhere. Things were going so well that a second distillery was built nearby (and given its name, the Clynelish Distillery, which was
FEATURE
N THE lB00'S IT IS ESTIMATED THAT THERE WEREAROUND 200 DISTILLERIESI COTLAND.BY THEEND 0 WORLD ~R II AT LEAST 70 0 THESEHAD CLOSED.
the name of the original subsequently
changed
Unfortunately,
distillery, to Brora).
the timing
have been worse. Almost after the new distillery operations,
And it is. It is the first release in what will
In the 1800's, it is estimated
be a series of very special whiskies.
around 200 distilleries
one will be based on a whisky from a long-
immediately
closed distillery
commenced
- a ghost distillery
include various other components,
the market took a downturn,
may be from distilleries
not. Many of these 'contributions'
The older distillery
part of Blue.
was the obvious
However, there were a number
choice.
liquid gold sitting
halls, continuing
to mature. They have not
a bottle,
operating
distilleries
Walker Blue Label Ghost and takes full advantage
from ghost distilleries.
the operating of
At A$480
this new whisky needs to be far marketing
distilleries
is the aforementioned 'ghosts'
of this
closed. We've mentioned
a number
of
Clynelish).
and with cult followings
(Linlithgow),
Rosebank,
are
St. Magdalene Kinclaith,
Glenugie
There may be ghosts in Scotland,
but they
and Glenlochy.
one of
which contributed The other
in this blend are from the Cambus
and Pittyvaich
opened,
in the 1980s and more
Braeval, Glenglassaugh,
made contributions,
as did three Ghosts. The 'heart'
more than an overpriced
are often
but things changed
the Ghosts. A few others that are highly
whisky is from Brora (interestingly,
the plunder
or
For the first release, five currently
gone to waste.
Rare, a new offering,
had closed. After the War, whisky enjoyed boom times, and new distilleries
regarded
in the
By the
which
of barrels
of the proverbial
in Scotland.
end of World War II, at least 70 of these
- and will
still operating
and the owners were forced to close one.
The Johnnie
Each
could hardly
that there were
are friendly
ghosts, and one only wishes that
we encountered
them more often.
distilleries.
gimmick.
exploredrinks.com
33
The maltings
facility
at Port Ellen, built in
1972, has been used by other distilleries in the Diageo portfolio
and subsequently
others from the region. The malting
drums
are the largest in the UK. The whisky produced from its reopening considered
during
the period
to ultimate
closure is
to be some of the greatest
Islay whisky ever made. Diageo advantage
has taken
of this with various bottlings,
annually since 2001. Other producers, including
Signatory
and Douglas
have released independent though,
Laing,
bottlings
needless to say, stocks are
diminishing,
pushing
prices even higher.
The whiskies are seen as having a strong peatiness
PORT ELLEN DISTILLERY
access. It was invented
Recent news will be wonderfully
encouraging
for
mandatory
earlier style - something
from 1823, no doubt ensure all taxes
Excise officer actually
•m.wuuni
in 2020. ESUIL UiHUI. 1121
is from the dress
PORT ELLEN.
circle of Islay, with neighbours like Ardbeg,
are that once the doors open
again, the intention
not least because the Customs &
}7thn u,,1,1: I
which shut
in 1983, will reopen
complexity.
wonderful
will be to replicate
the
all lovers of that
Islay style will appreciate.
were paid on the spirits produced,
famous Port Ellen Distillery,
This distillery
Indications
by Fox
in the early 1820's and made because it helped
lovers of Islay whiskies. The owned by Diageo,
and considerable
but does not allow them
until 1983 (now, usually held by
Cigar aficionados
the distiller).
whenever
:.~: ~i ;:;:u ,sce ot•
The lease for the distillery
howl at the moon
one of their preferred
discontinued.
ISLA YSl~GLE MALT SCOTCH WHISII 1 1 , ,:1~~, ~ P: , r1Ell11
Bowmore,
BRORA
held the key
whiskies, when a favoured
was
cigars is
So too, lovers of great malt distillery
closes its
•n • •I IUCUI
Lagavulin
and Laphroaig
-
U.t ldlll
o,,.1,..r,1u1f.ml.t1 , HP'
bl.,. ff ft•tl'I A;,fC131, ... 11
elite names by any standards. Diageo,
H*t.lflMlf
tiril tt1t1Ulfl
51n %AiJl~ ''~" f50mL
which also owns
not only Lagavulin
obtained
1t,1111t1t11fii101r••
31YEARS DL □
but also
£35,000 refurbishment.
and whiskies very quickly increase in value,
he was trading
and often legend,
with North
becoming
cult favourites.
Ramsey was a local
powerhouse.
He was involved
the development stills, assisting
with
of continuous
That is certainly Highlands
the case with Brora, a
distillery
which closed its doors
in 1983, after so many years of producing
Robert Stein
As is so often the case, when
and Aeneas Coffey. He also
fine malts. It originally
a distillery
established
back in 1819, built by the Marquess
- especially
one of
quality - closes, existing remaining
bottlings
and those
stocks of whisky produced
on site,
gain cult status and prices to match.
to the Islay, imported and the chairman of Commerce. into Diageo,
The distillery, originally
on the south coast of Islay,
built by A. K. MacKay & Co, was
established
in 1825, gaining
first distillery safe design'
by Septimus
process of distillation. has a padlock technology security).
fame as the
which incorporated
the 'spirit
(or did - perhaps
will provide
other methods
It allows distillers
spirit as it is produced
of
to observe the
and hence improve
the accuracy of the cuts,
34 exploredrinks.com
modern
a steamboat
of the Glasgow
Chamber
DCL, which later morphed took over Port Ellen in 1925.
for the maltings It re-opened
service
wines, was a local MP
They soon closed the distiller, and bonded
other than warehouses.
in 1967, after the number
stills had been doubled previous
Fox into the
A spirit safe literally
cigars
John Ramsay in 1836. By 1848, America.
~
Cao I I la, is in the process of a
doors. In both cases, the remaining
by the 21-year-old
of
possibly
bootleggers popular
of
in order to send local
broke. The Marquess was not a
man in the district,
having evicted
15,000 crofters from his property
in order
to run sheep at the time of the Highland Clearances
- some were resettled
as far away
as Canada and Australia.
from two to four the
year, but was closed again in 1983
thanks to the downturn
Stafford,
begun production
in interest
in whisky
The distillery
had been called 'Clynelish',
until 1968, when the Clynelish
at that time. It might seem unbelievable
near neighbour,
today, but distillers
suggests
felt that there was simply
was opened.
that the adoption
Distillery,
of the name was
little market for single malt whiskies in the
so as the new distillery,
peated
trade on the good name and reputation
style which
Islay offers.
a
One theory
same owners, could
that Brora had established.
However,
like so
1· , . • ;_-~1- --,.,.
-ti ~
.
'-. ~
--•I .· -·.C ~~. ---
-
•
FEATURE
.
-
-
• 1-
I~
,,.
'l!l -t -
, .-
·,
Along the way, it suffered
i\. ~ _
,
1909. It reopened
badly from a fire in
a year later, with matching
pot stills and a new and experimental continuous
I
column still, working
with malt.
Plans and details of this still, which only ran for five years, have been lost in the mists of time. The column still produced known as a 'silent
what is
malt' - potentially
2,273
litres per hour. 'Silent malt' is simply the name given to malt whisky from column stills rather than the pot stills. After the dismantling
' zrTflNGLE MA LT SCOTC H w 111sKV
much of what went on
Why then was it permanently
in that era, exact details
seems that the Clynelish
are a little sketchy. The
to handle increased
closed? It
Distillery
demand,
was built
as a result
of this still in 1916, the distillery
returned
to pot stills. Glentauchers
Speyside
and the Lochruan
Campbelltown 'silent
malts'.
name of the original
of the success of Brora. But with changing
,1,,34 ,u11
distillery
tastes, it was not long before two distilleries
Subsequent
were one too many and the old one was the
after a period
obvious
during WWII, saw
il lllfl
t
to Brora.
1111111
••• •• • •• I O 12
20 I 7 UI
tot•
II
Ull
11""'
0 I~
another
The style of whisky
N0
IUHU
choice for closure.
at
were two others which made
BRORA
was changed
at
distillery
expansions, in limbo
pair of stills
IN SCOTLAND
BRORA OISTJLLE RY
produced
l~UULANO , lWI tU I
:~~H~:~ I
from 1968 was
heavily peated, shortfalls
of Islay thanks
to drought region.
style. If evidence
to assist
Any bottles
remaining
collectors'
are now very much
items and very valuable.
the occasional
bottlings
So too,
from the dwindling
stocks held by Diageo.
in that
1985, the distillery It sits contiguous
From 1973, the to a more
Last year, Diageo announced
lightly peated
Highlands
famous distillery
in
as well as a
dark grains plant. By
mothballs
was
surplus to requirements.
style reverted
of its fame was needed,
installed,
that this
would emerge
from
and begin production
again in
news for all lovers of
other distilleries empire,
to in the
Balvenie and
Glenfiddich,
and the
2014, Diageo (owners of the old distillery)
2020. It is welcome
released a 1972 malt at £14,500/bottle.
great malts.
exist, but all equipment
Malts from this distillery
CONVALMORE
today is simply that of a
shells of the buildings
still
is long gone and its role considerable
had enjoyed
originally
was
Convalmore
sold only to private customers
and not to blenders. rosy. The distillery periods
warehouse.
success from the very early
days, so much so that production
Things were not always
had closed down for
on two earlier occasions - 1931
to 1938, thanks largely to Prohibition;
and
distillery.
Sadly, it is now effectively
demolished limited
is not simply a ghost
releases from its ever-diminishing
stocks a momentous
1941 to 1945, thanks to the War. Accounts
Speyside
small quantities
numerous
other suggestions
of breaks in
production
for any number
of reasons, but
it seems these two periods
were the most
likely closures.
included
from blenders
performed
the new
Not all of the malts produced
here were heavily peated, whatever
for
malts soon ensured full
recovery and, subsequently, distillery.
do not hesitate,
a valuable
as the distillery
role, producing
style of malt was needed.
though
are more likely to be
malt from this distillery speak highly of it, noting a rich fruitiness. suggest
architect,
1983), at the
quality to Clynelish
but
from
from
Convalmore
in 2005 and, more recently, a
Convalmore
32-Year-Old
Donald
MacKay, it was one of the Ten years
later, it was sold for £6,000 and years later, up as part of the Diageo empire.
The fruitiness blenders,
released a
28-Year-Old
and under the design of local
famous 'seven stills of Dufftown'. ended
Some
it was similar in
with 'an extra fruity heart'. Diageo
Built in 1894 (some suggest
behest of a group of businessmen
demand
heavily peated
distillery,
from this famous
Those who have sampled
as part of a blend.
Glasgow Afterwards,
event for whisky lovers.
If you ever see a bottle
vary considerably,
and there are actually
a
one, making the rare, very
it offered
was much prized by
and it often contributed
famous Black & White whisky.
to the
'Special
was part of their
Releases' in 2017, though
3,972 bottles
were ever available.
1984, it was aged in refill American and bottled
in
oak casks
with a natural cask strength
48.2% ABV Though bottle,
only Distilled of
its price is over $2,000 a
that won't stop those keen to sample
part of history.
exploredrinks.com 35
Quick quiz: Front row tickets, opening night, for Springsteen at the Meadowlands or a bottle of Pappy van Winkle bourbon - which is harder to get? Nothing,
fact, there is almost no bottle of wine, spirit
that the suggestion
or champagne on this planet harder to get on
Pappy van Winkle creates. Every bottle could
by the Sazerac Company.
release. You might even have more chance of a
be sold one hundred times over, despite the
of different aged Pappy's, including 15, 20 and
bottle of DRC Romanee-Conti,
price. No wonder that there have been faked
23-Years-Old.
and the prices
however, comes close to the clamour
Distillery', but is distilled and bottled at the
The Pappy, by the proverbial country mile. In
of an available bottle of
Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfurt, Kentucky There are a number
are not that different - they have been resold
bottles. Pappy is released on a set day - Pappy
for up to $20,000. It is said that Pope Francis
Day - and in some American states is sold by
gets a single bottle of Pappy every year. But
lottery. Fans from thousands of miles away will
1893 when 18-year-old Julian van Winkle Snr
only one.
take their chances. People have been known to
(who would become known as Pappy) took a
be on retail waiting lists for more than a decade
job as a salesman with the liquor wholesaler,
before they get a single bottle. Very often,
W. L. Weller & Sons. Eventually, he acquired a
under no illusion that spirits such as bourbon
those successful sell their loot to aficionados for
part interest in the business and then, in 1910,
and Tennessee rye can be of superb quality,
many times the original price.
purchased the Stitzel Distillery in Louisville,
Pappy van Winkle's Family Reserve Bourbon
'medicinal
is the flagship from the 'Old Rip van Winkle
implemented,
For anyone who has not experienced
them, be
Kentucky. Prohibition
not to mention seriously expensive and in extraordinary
demand.
36 exploredrinks.com
Pappy, as it is commonly known, dates back to
limited production
to
purposes', but just before it was they introduced
the 'Old Rip Van
FEATURE
Winkle' label. Though it did not last. It was not until 1972 that the label was reintroduced
when
the distillery and various brands were sold - this had been the only label to which the family retained the rights from the sales. When Pappy passed away in 1965 he was 91, and the nation's oldest active distiller. It was Pappy's son who had reintroduced
the brand.
After his death in 1981, Pappy's grandson, Julian Van Winkle Ill, took over (his greatgrandson, Preston, has also joined the business since). In 2002, a joint venture was entered for the Sazerac Company to distil and bottle the van Winkle brands at the Buffalo Trace Distillery. An issue for the company is that the old stocks
It would be easy to focus solely on this
from the Stitzel-Weller
legendary bourbon when looking at the best
limited and priced to sit alongside the great
of the best, but it is far from the only prestige
cognacs and malts, is the Eagle Rare 17-Year-
distillery are almost
exhausted, but they are continuing
production.
Another prestige bourbon, again extremely
release and more than a few of them emerge
Old 2017. Again from the Buffalo Trace
from the Buffalo Trace Distillery.
Distillery, it is aged for at least a decade and
from 6,000 bottles to 84,000 bottles - take your
As mentioned,
around the globe.
This seems to have made no dent in demand. Production estimates vary, and there are quotes
has been highly awarded in competitions Pappy van Winkle joined the
pick, though the higher estimate seems likely
firm of W. L. Weller, and that gentleman
to be the most accurate. Whatever the amount,
is commemorated
why not an increase in production?
Weller Antique Bourbon. Weller developed
(There
himself
in the flagship, William Larue his
And then we have the Sazerac Rye 18 Year-Old. The Sazerac Coffee House in New Orleans was
are rumours that the current output will be
original recipe for bourbon by using wheat, not
founded
expanded by a small quantity by 2025, but there
rye, in the mash bill (wheat being the secondary
home of America's first cocktail, not surprisingly
are more rumours about this bourbon than
grain, behind the traditional
almost any other spirit). Aside from potentially
leads to a smoother, more gentle taste. Pappy
damaging
'the magic', Julian van Winkle Ill
has expressed concerns that should tastes, or
corn), believing it
in 1850 and is considered to be the
named the Sazerac. This whiskey comes from a special 25 barrels, filled initially for the purpose
is also a wheat, not rye, adherent. While there
back in 1998. If anyone is questioning
are several bourbons in his name, the Antique
tag, consider not only the quality of these
the price
circumstances change, they may be left with
is the pinnacle. Uncut, unfiltered, hand-bottled
bourbons but the fact that over the time it
large quantities of unsaleable bourbon. That
and barrel proof (and with a price to match), the
spent in barrels, an extraordinary
seems overly cautious, given the extraordinary
Antique comes from the specially selected 145
of the original liquid was lost to evaporation.
demand for this bourbon, and one wonders
best barrels. It comes in at an impressive 67.7
72. 7 per cent
per cent ABV, although this varies from year to
Finally, the George T. Stagg. Aged in newly
designed to maintain the mystique.
year. This whiskey was first introduced
charred (for just 55 seconds) oak barrels for
This cult adoration of Pappy has only been
The Thomas H. Handy Sazerac is an annual
how much of maintaining
a tiny production
is
in 2005.
more than fifteen years, it comes from a specially selected 309 barrels.
around since 1996, when the Chicago Beverage
release which was designed to meet the
Testing Institute rated the 20-year-old at 99 out
consumer demand for aged, barrel strength
All of these last five prestige bourbons are
of 100, the highest score ever awarded. The
whiskey. It will vary from year to year, but the
part of what is known as Buffalo Trace Antique
bottle was submitted
distillery does put out an admirable amount
Collection,
of information.
limited edition bourbons, released every
by one of their salesmen,
and it is rumoured that it was just as well, as
The latest came from a select
the family was suffering financially at the time.
72 barrels, was 127.2 proof and a whopping
Part of the myth also stems from the fact that
27 .2 per cent of the original blend was lost to
a five-bottle
series of these glorious
Autumn to a lucky few.
before these mature bourbons were released,
evaporation
it was rare to find any bourbons aged for over
the bartender who first use rye whiskey in a
great bourbon can sit at the same level as any
12 years.
Sazerac cocktail.
spirit then nothing will
while it was ageing. Handy was
And if they are not enough to convince you that
I
exploredrinks.com 37
DRINKS FLAVOUR PROFILE
GINGER BEER: Naturally brewed with authentic ginger and spring water, Fever-Tree
PREMIUM INDIAN TONIC WATER: A blend of
Ginger Beer offers a deep, long-lasting
subtle botanical flavours, such as hand-pressed
character that is not too sweet on the palate.
bitter orange oil from Tanzania, mixed with
Try it in a classic Dark & Stormy, Moscow Mule,
spring water and the highest quality quinine.
non-alcoholic
ginger
Gunner, or simply on its own.
Try it out in a classic G& T and see if you notice
PREMIUM LEMONADE: A blend of real
the difference.
lemons, spring water and 'sfumatrice'
MEDITERRANEAN TONIC WATER: Made by blending
essential oils from flowers, fruits
extracts
from Sicilian lemons, Fever-Tree Premium Lemonade contains no artifcial preservatives
and herbs, to create a delicate and floral tonic.
or sweeteners. Perfect in a refreshing vodka &
Perfect with a smooth vodka or light gin, it
lemonade.
can also be enjoyed as a sophisticated
'adult'
soft drink.
SODA WATER: Fever-Tree used soft
GINGER ALE: Three natural gingers, subtle
just the right amount of carbonation.
botanical flavours and natural spring water are
Soda Water's versatility allows it to mix well
spring water to create a premium mixer with Fever-Tree
blended to create a refreshing ginger drink
with just about anything in your bar. Try with
with an authentic taste and aroma. Perfect to
whisky or bourbon,
balance and enhance the flavours of whisky,
spirits or liqueurs.
bourbon
or any of your favourite
and rum.
exploredrinks.com 39
DISTILLERY FOCUS
Landing on our fair shores as this edition
uniquely fresh lychee note instead of being
The first expression,
of explore WHISKY goes to print is Winter
swamped by sweetness," said Kinsman.
Experiment,
Storm, the third instalment to the Glenfiddich Experimental Series. The limited-edition
The result is a perfect pioneering
resulting in a short, crisp premium whisky imbued
sweetness
combination
of both
been finished
liquids, the heightened
candied
held a Speyside
and oakiness of Glenfiddich
with a unique layer of sweetness and complexity.
is complemented
The new expression joins Glenfiddich IPA
tropical
Experiment, single malt Scotch whisky finished
notes derived
by the mouth-watering
fruit notes and underlying
Storm comes as a
2016, during which he visited - a renowned
subtle fresh hops.
freezing
weather,
vineyards,
Brian toured
too. Craig McDonald,
Peller Estates VP of
is Australian
here
and started
at -10'C
when they were as hard as pebbles. Inspired
by his experience,
he started
Distillery
experimenting
Brian returned in Dufftown,
to
where
with several French
oak lcewine casks from the Canadian - filling
conventions,
them with various Glenfiddich
Brian invited 20 whisky experts
from 16 countries around the world to channel
We go to extreme lengths to
casks, the result is a refined and balanced flavour, with candy floss sweetness and a rich
always looking for ways to push the boundaries
vanilla oakiness. It embodies
of taste, so I was intrigued
character of a classic Glenfiddich
to see how it could whisky.
The resulting liquid is a unique combination
of
the warming soul of whisky and the frozen cold character of lcewine,"
aged
chilled glass.
said McDonald.
Experimental
unusual and unexpected combines
whisky, with
pear. It is best enjoyed with a frozen grape in a
You'll find Glenfiddich The Glenfiddich
the warm, fruity
hints of apple blossom, summer fruits and ripe
winery
malts for up to six months.
and develop a progressive
whisky. Blended in a variety of different
produce our intensely sweet lcewine, and are
be used to create a new unexpected The Glenfiddich
his
career in Mudgee.
experiment.
most unique
whiskies. Going against normal whisky making
their knowledge
the beautiful
to the series, Glenfiddich
Project XX, is one of Glenfiddich's
"It was a privilege to work with Brian on this
Enduring
where he learnt how the grapes
had to be picked by moonlight
The second addition connection
winemaking
in a vibrant
with zesty citrus
from the lcewine.
Peller Estate
winery in Niagara.
IPA, resulting
flavours and notes of soft, sweet vanilla and
wine
There is an Australian Winemaking,
result of Kinsman's trip to Canada in January
in oak casks that previously
Scotch whisky imbued
in india pale ale (IPA) and Glenfiddich Project XX (pronounced 'twenty'), both launched in late 2016. Winter
IPA
to blend the
flavours of Scotch and hops. The whisky has
whisky
has been finished in Canadian lcewine casks,
Glenfiddich's
Glenfiddich
has been crafted
Series inspires
variants, and
in a striking
the brand's passion for pushing
"Only the rarer whiskies, those aged for 21
Scotch whisky boundaries
years, could cope with the extra lcewine
collaborating
intensity. Having more tannins, extracted from
world of whisky.
with its interest
with trailblazers
beyond
Australia-wide
the
embossed
Winter
Storm in stores
priced at RRP $350. It comes white ceramic bottle
presentation
and an
box.
in A limited
edition
- when it's gone, it's gone.
the years in oak, these malts brought out a
exploredrinks.com 41
Conventional wisdom would suggest that when it comes to whisky, there is nothing quite new or ground-breaking in the foreseeable future. However, a recently established distillery, Ailsa Bay, built in 2007 in Ayrshire, would imply otherwise.
44 exploredrinks.com
DISTILLERY FOCUS
"WITHAILSA BAY, WE 11'l1NTED TO CREATEA VERY EAVILYPEATEDWHISI(YWITHALL OF THESWEETNESS ND SMOI(INESSWE COULDMUSTER,BUTALSO DIAL OWN ON SOMEOF THEMEDICINALNOTES THAT CHARACTERISESOMEPEATEDWHISI(IES,"SAYS PETER GORDON,DIRECTOROF WILLIAMGRANT& SONSAND GREATGREATGRANDSONOF WILLIAMGRANT. Ailsa Bay is on the same site as the Girvan grain
The process of micro-maturation
distillery, which was also the site of the Ladyburn
by Ailsa Bay is unique to the whisky industry,
employed
distillery, making the Girvan complex a multi-
although it has been used in the production
functional operation. A rare thing. Girvan, and
Cognac. The spirit just off the still, is then cut to
Ailsa Bay, are both part of the William Grant
the desired 'cask strength' for the maturation
& Sons family of independently
(ageing) process. It then goes into ex Hudson
owned and
of
operated distilleries.
Baby Bourbon petit casks, between 25 and 100
Ai Isa Bay malts come from a run that lasts
encourages an intense and quick maturation.
litres, for a period of six to nine months, which only two weeks, one week for lightly peated and one for heavily peated malts. The rest of
It will then be moved to virgin, first-fill/refill
the time is devoted to the contribution
American oak casks for the next few years.
they
make to other blends in the William Grant portfolio.
The result is a peated Lowland single
Overall, four different types of oak are used for maturation - the Hudson Baby Bourbon casks,
balanced
first fill Bourbon, refill American oak and new oak.
and unique as the brand's timeless muse,
The aged whisky maturates are then married and
Ai Isa Craig - a large rock in the 'Firth of Clyde'
bottled, without chill filtration, at 48.9°/oabv.
malt whisky, a spirit as beautiful,
off the Ayrshire coast, West Scotland, which dominates
the distillery's horizon.
All of this happens within their multi-functional distillery, something we are likely to see more of
"With Ailsa Bay, we wanted to create a very
due to its success here. The Ailsa Bay distillery
heavily peated whisky with all of the sweetness
produces an approximate annual capacity of
and smokiness we could muster, but also dial
twelve million litres on site.
down on some of the medicinal notes that characterise some peated whiskies," says Peter
The various different aspects of production
Gordon, Director of William Grant & Sons and
of Ailsa Bay will be of considerable interest
great great grandson of William Grant.
to aficionados, but what is perhaps most fascinating is that this is a move to a style of
Part of Ailsa Bay's single malt whisky production
whisky not solely or even dominantly determined
is a unique micro-maturation
by location.
process. They
21 parts per million (PPM), but it is measured
"Ailsa Bay Distillery has allowed us to do
from the finished liquid, not the dried malted
something extremely special," says Master
barley. Ailsa Bay's method is believed to be more
Blender Brian Kinsman. "Using our precision
accurate. They also have the world's first SPPM
distilling methods and a special process for cask
reading - 'sweet parts per million', designed
maturation, I am able to carefully control the
by master blender Brian Kinsman, to give an
outcome of the whisky. With Ailsa Bay, I took
indication to consumers of the level of sweetness
exceptional peated malt and ex Baby Bourbon
hopefully an innovation which
..
SWEET SMOKE MIC-AO MATUilU1TI0N
also include a 'stated phenol content', which is
they can expect-
Ft(LEASE 1.2
o:nPPPM
OltSPfl'N
Hudson casks to create a whisky with a balance
catches on. Theirs is 11 SPPM, which they believe
of smoke and sweetness, to occupy a new space
provides the ideal balance.
on the flavour map."
exploredrinks.com
45
â&#x20AC;¢
FEATURE
In my hand is a rather heavy leather
case, not
unlike the one dear old Dr. Watson would have had.
However
expressions
mine contains
several
of single malt whiskies,
glasses and water pipettes
tasting
for two.
You see, I'm on my way to one of the best, if not the best, cheese shops in the world - La Fromagerie,
Marylebone.
I have arranged
They are not traditionally
to meet with my good friend
Bruno D'Abo,
one another,
who is not only the manager
of this fine
they both enjoy a similar
establishment ambassador
but also a renowned
cheese
and expert.
tradition. attributes,
associated
with
ever had, as hundreds
yet when you think about it, rich heritage
combine
and
almost takes my breath
it's distinctly
perfect don't
match of whisky and cheese, and we
to be awesome
1"
Bruno promises
as he
opens the door and invites me in from the chilly London
My love of cheese and whisky pairing
is to find the
care how long it takes. "This is going
So off we go. I have the whisky, and Bruno
Australia.
has the keys to the cheese room - a massive
William
glass cold room storing
literally
hundreds
of
cheeses from around the world.
think of single
of pairing
food
spontaneously
malt whisky and fine cheese.
room, my excitement
builds.
Then, as the
door slides open, I am suddenly one of the greatest
hit with
food experiences
I have
I was the Whisky Ambassador
Richard Blanchard
and I opened
bar to celebrate
Balvenie,
when thinking
started
for
Grant & Sons, and my good friend
pop-up
fog.
with drink, one doesn't
I"
quite a few years earlier in Melbourne,
As the key turns in the door of the cheese Admittedly,
away. The first thing
smoky,
nutty, spicy or yes, even creamy sweetness. Our mission this evening
cheeses
of aroma that
that pops in to my mind is, "I love cheese
They can both possess similar whether
of different
to create a tsunami
all things
a week-long craft. The
being the most handcrafted
in the world,
was the obvious
choice,
whisky and we
invited
craftspeople
exhibit
and tell their stories over some single
from around Australia
to
malts and cheese boards.
exploredrinks.com 47
One of these craftsmen
was Nick Haddow
from Bruny Island Cheese Co. in Tasmania. I had the opportunity
to sit down with Nick
and try his fantastic
selection
some of the finest Balvenie was it; I was hooked. matches
That
Over 2,000 tastings
later and I am still finding surprising
of cheeses with whiskies.
wonderful
and
(Thanks Nickl).
Back at La Fromagerie,
Bruno has selected
around 20 cheeses of varying sty Ies, textures and ages, from the soft, mild creaminess brie or camembert, texture
of a young cheshire
whiskies
are a selection
distillery
in Dufftown,
We begin strength, profile
by trying
The
Scotland.
each of the whiskies at
of each one and its attributes, aroma and texture.
on to the cheese, doing taking
or caerphilly.
from The Balvenie
so that we can fully understand
as flavour,
of a
to the hard and crumbly
the
such
Then we move
the same thing and
notes along the way (best done this
way when cheese is involved,
if you know
what I mean .. ). When we selected we thought
a cheese
may match with the chosen
whisky, we then tried them together.
Put simply, you want to taste the whisky
not allowing
you time to see the
through
connections
between
the memory
of the cheese. First, put
a piece of cheese in your mouth and chew it
textures
Now there is a way to do this. You don't
while moving
just shove the whisky and cheese into your
the cheese and its texture
mouth all at once and hope for the best.
A soon as that's done, try a sip of the whisky
of how mouthwash
There is a slightly
at bottle
that right nowl
scientific,
approach
more complex, to matching
their best. It's imperative understanding
before
or 'introduce
48 exploredrinks.com
you bring them
them',
so that the flavour
cleanses
.. think
of
coat your palate.
strength.
and
This is because
alcohol
works. We don't want
these to
to get a good
of both the whisky and
cheese separately together
near
it around,
the flavours
or mouthfeel.
as I like to say.
So, have another
You may find that, as good as that experience alcohol,
was, the whisky, being
stripped
and cleansed
the flavour
high in
of the cheese
your palate far too quickly,
go. This time, add two
drops of room temperature
water to the
whisky and mix well by swirling slightly
tilted.
Using a pipette
the glass is best, as
this allows you to be more accurate. won't believe
You
how just one drop of water
will change the connection
between
After a few memorable matches we settled
hours, these are the
indigenous
the
Navarre.
cheese and the whisky. Try a piece of the
•
Balvenie 12 DoubleWood and Ticklemore
same cheese again, coating
your mouth
from Totnes in Devon, England.
with it, and then try sipping
the whisky again
This cheese is a semi-soft,
through
the memory
of the cheese.
white moulded,
wrinkled
from unpasteurised Hopefully, flavour
you will see the difference
and texture
as the
vegetable
If you get a
match, you will know it, believe
If not, go up in increments
•
me.
of one drop of
water at a time until you do.
Move on to the next whisky and cheese and remember,
the unique whiskies
goats milk using
•
Balvenie 21 PortWood and Shropshire Blue from Nottingham, England. Bold blue cheese, similar but with an incredible
rennet.
area around
smoky with intense
and aromas.
Balvenie 14 Caribbean Cask and Coolea
Warning:
from Macroom, County Cork, Ireland.
especially
Made with cow's milk from the Meuse
with friends
Rhine lssel herd, a well-known
whiskies
Germany
selection
natural grey/ crust made
flavours
to the mountain
Slightly
in style to Stilton
butter-like
texture.
of both the whisky and
cheese start to come together. perfect
Ewes milk cheese from the Latxa breed,
on:
and Holland,
breed from
You could be here all night, if you are sharing
the experience
who also bring their favourite
and cheese.
this is a traditional
rennet Gouda style cheese.
It's elementary,
my dear reader.
just like creating
and cheeses, this is not
an exact science, just good fun
I
•
Balvenie 17 DoubleWood and ldiazabal
Remember
from Navarre, Spain.
whisky responsibly.
to eat cheese and drink
exploredrinks.com 49
We've scoured the country high and low for the best venues to sit down, relax and indulge in a dram or two. These bars are all home to impressive collections or rare, limited-release and favourite bottlings, making this list the ultimate guide to where to drink whisky.
\YHISKY & ALEMENT 270 Russell Street , M e lb-ourne VIC 3000 www.whiskyandale.com.au
-
-·i••
.,7 Brownin g Street, r,;;'
~oo 1erbar.com co
Wes i' End QLD 4101
I :\~
.Jll,-,j .. BOILERMAKER HOUSE ·209-2 ti" t nsdale Street
Melbourne VI ~ 000
THE BAXTER INN Basement 152-156 Clarence Street www.thebaxterinn.com
' .'' ~
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1111 M!~wij • Allfi: .. •• .. ~. •--
S dne
NSW 2000
Located on the original site of The New Town Store, Webster's is a time capsule of King Street's rich history. The whisky and cocktail bar pays tribute to the owners and operators of the 19th century grocery store, John and Eliza Webster, with the downstairs bar featuring elegant black and white photographs of the buildings that have stood on the site since the days of this bygone era.
DRINKS
The venue now spreads across three levels, spanning a vertical timeline of these time periods. Stepping inside at street level, visitors are greeted with an industrial steampunk styled bar, with exposed brick and low-lit fairy lights framing the space. Head upstairs to the second floor and you'll be transported
to a classic speakeasy
of the 1920's Prohibition era, complete with
-~~--,~-
dim lighting, dark wood panelling, tealight candles and seating hidden away in secret nooks and crannies. Take a seat near the higharched windows and revel in the view out
). L J \ !· _/,\ · ,:{,.:.·\ ,.... ' J 111 ' ' • ,·"-r·,,.., ; ' 4'1"'f L · I
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over the hustle and bustle of the famous nightlife district.
it's here that you will find Webster's 500-strong whisky collection. Guests can indulge in rare, unreleased and exclusive drams, including the bar's own special blend of Woodford
Reserve.
There is also a cocktail menu of classic serves alongside six bespoke whisky creations, such as the Jam & Smoke (Caol Isla 12YO, Grand Marnier, egg white, fresh lemon and marmalade jam) and the Webster's New York Sour (Hudson Maple Cask Rye, egg white, fresh lemon & A pigs Peake House of Sticks Shiraz float). For those who like it neat or are interested in broadening
their tasting knowledge, whisky and
bourbon flight tasting panels are also available.
.
'~A .•J!. ,ii " ' \\ -~:.. -_·. 4 -~wlfI(~ t"·~-1-•··..~-~ : -. __ ........,...,
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This level is known as the whisky bar & grill, and
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Alongside
this, the bar & grill floor regularly
plays host to an array of whisky nights and events. On Wednesdays, guests can enjoy 20% off all drams, while the frequent whisky dinners offer the chance to taste unique whisky or boilermaker
and food pairings.
Up on the top level, you'll find yourself in your stereotypical
Aussie backyard from the 1950s,
from the bright green Astroturf
through to
the ultra-kitsch plastic flamingos. Bask in the open air while enjoying a 360-degree view over Sydney's trendy Inner West. Webster's is located on the corner of King Street and Eliza Street and is open Monday - Sunday.
323 King Street, Newtown NSW T: (02) 95191511 W: www.webstersbar.com.au Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday 10am-4am Sunday 1 0am-12am
54 exploredrinks.com
explore WHISKY: As an ambassador for The
gone. Whisky is for everyone. It doesn't have
Balvenie, you must meet a lot of people
a gend d'r, it's a drinkl Our craftspeople
l: RB: Au str alia sh';:;'uld be \ }ery proud
at the
.• who a!~eady love '."' .his~y but want t~ _learn distill {y work hard on making the liquid in ,~ach # What' { t f\e best way to develop your . •,. ,bo t_tl,e and would prefer that everyone feels ·'
7
-:}-,-(.·, r' m,o[e. ' · '
kn~ wle"dge' ~f ; h1sk:, ·: .,~Hh'aJ;' yo~ "~joi ! ~/ \t< • •
tips fo~ t lios~ just st~r,t.m~ o.y,l1
,
~.:: ss
-.'·fi'~:t~,;.
· Iii•
:ihey can enjoy it.
~-
Bl:Al~ ~Y:1~ ~~
a lo_t of ~'.e~~ le ·"':~'-: ~r~~m job', some mornings it mu~t still be 1_·Stt~t)~~ ~ · ·~ ·_-~, _lt ~ ~tW.~ ve th1~ d1ffo:_ ult to drag yourself to the office and
·. -:.· ehough to app ·reciate ·.whisk y,'but the first part ·
...
·-·.-'f.. :,_:·.-•._~~;-~
.ofwhisky tasting
•.
•.·y·_·
•. }_ ..:_.,..
'.•-''~
•1
There are !
; bout co~ paring J hem, ~ trying to be anythi ~g 'else. Every region of whisky around the world 1_
~~- ~
has its distinct style, and the exciting thing
. .._
. ,,,,,. .....,,::,_'.; ,., ·""-'t-~ ew: While many would label yours as the •·•
~ :t1;'i.D ~sf,,, n..'i ~?~}Q; J;: o ,•.,:t..~-;f" ~.C:: ~tt ~hJ , R7 \ . 1 ~ ,.t ~).Q ~J \ \2.[f~~~ / ,n, tf~ L~Y,l~ ~ ,l,~:0 1 ' ; f·:/_··7.w_e;r_ry ab ';'~,~ no :C,. ~~;=; ~ '.~g _?_F.~~-?.'."~,;t~ ,1 1,~.9.. }j.;,'7 ,\.
,,._
I
some incredible whiskies here I I don't think it'~
n
a~d the passion alive?
~ --,.
,.
Bal\/enie, we.love to~share ~ r knowledge and experience with tho_se starting.out,
.
·:•: ;·.:
:'.'J
and I'm
curr : ntly wo ~~ing w1t~ peopl 'U n the industry, sudi as Bill lark, to share those stories of '
is.e_rijoying:yo~~~~lf l'/ e .bee :n . ,. RB:_/ or me, it really is the dream job, and there working a lot on giving pe ?'ple the tools _'.<=: _do · are .so r;iany aspects that keep me going even their own food pairing at ·my events .-Everyone · on ' the hard days I At The Balvenie, we have
working together across the world. More to come on that in 2019 ..,.• l O ''
understands
0
some r~ai ~haracters at our distillery who spend
eW: Whisky is a great Father's Day or
things like cheese, chocolate and fruits ca.n
years, de~~d~ { ; ~-i;,,; n a lifetime crafting the
Christmas (really any special occasion)
really spark some great conversation and build your knowledge of flavours.
whisky we have in our glass on the other side of the world. It keeps me going to know that I'm
present. Wha ta r~/ ourt oll three p~ ks for ~, \. whisky presents?f"i \ 1, 1\
food and what they like, so usi~g
,.
\t. ~..·
watching that identity form right now. At The
put_pn a smil~. W~at keeps this role fresh
: .
T~~
t~ me is t ~~t AustrJl_lia is so :young in whisky , ,._,i,:~ that we don't know the exact style yet. We are , t"}~
showing what these real people have worked
·: I
l
,
I,
l \
. ;
1
eW: Are you finding that the whisky drinker
so hard to create, so far away from where it
is changing? Are you seeing younger people
started. Telling the stories of the people who
RB: For a special occasion, and every r• occasion - really. myfavourit .; l ince I wa~ 19
become more interest~d? Where is the most
make it really keeps me going. Each bottle we
was The Balvenie 12 DoubleWood.
_considerable interest coming from?
pop open here has the experience and hard
special place in whisky history with 6J r Malt \ \.
work of generations
Maste ;s; role in 2aj k finish ing, and the whisky ~~
of people, all of which have
their own story. The stories never get old. That's what keeps me going.
.....
r.'f
It has a
,
1
Joi."
really ~.s es fit every occasion. For Father's Day, I think the 17 DoubleWood fits the bill (with a
"'·
':
FEATURE
ffifiere are ma ~ _w ays to enjoy your favourite whisky. Often that's neat in a Glencairn glass, as you savour: tf;ie arom as and flavours that are present from the many years of mild oxidation and oak ~ barrel maturation. That's the purest form of whisky appreciation.
~ ~•H~wev ~
l nim ~ re recent-times, there have been many inroads made into the enjoyment of whiskies itb ,a,.~weet -.sir ·savoury accompaniment. This has allowed for more discussion about our favourite _ 1 •• ~. food ~ nd how they complement or contrast the flavours in a good whisky.
.='~ -.
B r.iefly, the foo _ds .we enjoy the taste of set off a cascade of sensations in the brain, triggered DY.tfi e p~ys.lglogical an_d chemical makeup of those foods. The five main basic tastes that our tongues detect from ,the food we eat are sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami - the description given to t P.i e taste •sensation of savoury, meaty, unctuous, fatty flavours. When these tastes are detected by taste buds 011 t fie tongue, the chemo-receptors in the olfactory bulb behind the nose are activated with t fi e r.rese r.ire,of air, to identify the specific taste of the food which we describe as flavour. ffine w. ce Rtion of these thousands of different flavours is dependent on the nose being open, to all ~ _.fl rl t ne.olf ~ctory bulb to unlock them and match the chemical scent code with something :.,..• > that we recognise .
., .r,.._... r-
WORDS BEN DAVIDSON
complemented
by medium dark chocolate with
orange and almond, or perhaps medium dark
of toffee, dried fruits and a delicate saltiness.
chocolate with coconut and lime. works ': 9UiJlly: well ~
These flavours can be complemented
new consumers early
SUGGESTION:
contrasted
seasoned aficionados
The Glenlivet Nadurra 'First Fill American
option is to contrast the peat notes with mint
~
_...___~-
• -~
sweeti _e,wh~I~ -~ e~
-
who don't mind a wee
......--·~
-.
t!,O _!·:beirfavourite ':.dram .
. ~--tr__..........,.""ln sJ;i;=is,olat e_; there ,are vary ~ g c!,egrees of 'the raw cacao ingredient, .- ~~_ an_d a~tringent -
~
:
...:.-,
--
which is quite bitter
on its _own. It's the addition
of
~
r-
sugars and milk solids that helps to sweeten
--.......
the .cacao to make it palatable, into chocolate. elements
and turns it
But for me, it's the flavour
added into the chocolate
makes it a more exciting
which
-_ ____. ~. · ,._ __
Here are some suggestions you are next settling
to try when
down to a neat whisky,
chocolate, to help soften the smoke with
chocolate
the cooling sensation of the sweet mint and
"The beautiful bright citrus, subtle vanilla and
bittersweet
coconut notes of the whisky are softened and
match it with salted caramel chocolate to
complemented
further amplify the maritime subtleties
by the bittersweet
intensity of
chocolate. Another option is to
whiskies, as well soften the intense flavours of
and coconut fattiness playing along to subdue
the whisky with the sweet caramel toffee.
the oaky tannins into a long and deliciously flavourful finish."
SUGGESTION:
Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old paired with orange
mint dark chocolate
Lagavulin 16-Year-Old paired with intense and almond dark chocolate
"I love the way this complex and powerfully
"The deep, rich and subtle smoky touches
built whisky is contrasted
of the whisky are superbly complemented
by
or to try at your dinner party when it's time
the slightly bittersweet
and chocolate, with the soft almond nuttiness
notes of the orange
mouthfeel
in this chocolate."
helping to amplify the subtle sherry notes in this
Ardbeg 10-Year-Old paired with salted
superb blended whisky,"
caramel dark chocolate
ISLAY WHISKY
caramel characters are accentuated
gentle and soft, with a i elicate fruity character,
- .• --
by the bright mint
notes and the smooth and creamy, bittersweet
"The heavily peated, . Whisk j es from around the River Spey tend to be
in Islay
the chocolate, with the delicate notes of lime
for dessert.
. SPEYSIDE WHISKY
in a couple of different ways. One
Oak' paired with coconut and lime dark
flavour match when
p ~ ed with whisky. -
and
on in their journey of .discovery, as well as for ..
-.,
malting stage imbues it with an intense smoky character that is often balanced by flavours
complex
oak and subtle
of this legendary
by the noticeable
sometimes typified as orchard fruits like apple
Whiskies from the island of Islay have
the chocolate,
or pear, with notes of citrus, vanilla, coconut
traditionally
slight bitter toffee and creamy notes of the
- and subtle honey. These flavours are beautifully
been made in the heavily peated
style, where the drying of the barley in the
amplifying
whisky saltiness of
the sweet caramel,
dark chocolate."
exploredrinks.com
57
One of life'sprivileges.
HIGHLANDSINGLE MALTSCOTCHWHISKY
DRINK RESPONSIBLY. For people 18 + only. Enjoy in moderation.
FEATURE
HIGHLAND / ISLES WHISKY Whiskies from th · 0 style sand .includee Highlands span a variety f t d _ some of h b 1st11lerie s in Scot Iand Th t e moS re mote old and heath . . e flavours can b ery right h end maritime-influenc~d. Ea t rou_ght o light a nuanced by th . ch whisky is of t . e terro1r wh · en which ranges fro ere 1t is produced moo r and m m_rugged coastline to ' o unta1ns · h co nditi o ns add. , w it variabl e wea th ing to th e · er ~eated, heavi ly sherried m~. Wh ile some are rom the sea, others or ave a salty tang The sherr ied whisk · are fresh, light and gras .h 1escomb· sy. wit raisins and ine beautiful I . I nut cho I y is and wh isk·1esare co ate, while so me dark choco late.
accentuated by sea-salt
SUGGESTION· Th . e Dalmore 15-Y. fruit & hazelnut d e:-Old
paired with
" The rich and b ldar chocolate its o taste o f Th . prominent sherry b e Dalm ore, wit n d1stmctive hazelnut fla:o
ideally accompanied :tt
aged influence, is th e sweet raisins ana
amp lifying the deep fl
urs in the choco late
and nuttiness in the
havokurs of sweet sherry' W IS y."
Talisker 10 -Y.ear-Old \ · chocolate paired with sea salt d ' " Th . ark 1s sublime w hisk . loca ti o n by th y perfe ctl y rep resent · . e sea, e lem · s its smokiness and enta l 1n its subtl gentle salf e expect from this iness, as one wo Id b coastal h · u eautifully with w isky. It goes a natur I tt at softens th e .intensea flav sea salt dark ch oco Iate h oge ther into a gratif in ours, bringing it y g taste sensation" How To Do It: Have a taste of the wh · k the choco late. 1s y. Have a taste of
nd Have · hav a more . prominent taste O f · whisky a ea b igger taste of th and savour the fl avours. e chocolate. Sit b ac k
exploredrink
s.com
59
WHY THIS UNLIKELY PAIRING IS
FEATURE A freshly shucked its 'liquor'
oyster - still containing
(sea water from the inlet where it
was farmed) will a have a powerful flavour. Immediately,
sea-fresh
these flavours bring
to mind whiskies from the west coast of Scotland
and, in particular,
Talisker - sweet,
spicy, smoky and with a distinct maritime
briny/
nature. Both ingredients
here
display a real sense of place, but it's in the bringing
together
of these two products
- your local oysters with the Isle of Skye's finest - that the magic really happens. The pairing
works on many levels. The
saltiness and smokiness compliments
of the whisky
the oyster, whilst the spiciness
and sweetness
cut and contrast
~
respectively.
-
_, -
Talisker really is the ideal partner to oysters in this regard. But don't be afraid to experiment
HOT TIP: Should you be lucky enough to visit Talisker Distiller on the shores of Loch Harport in Skye make sure you grab a bottle from the distillery and take a short stroll to _. the Oyster Shed. They sell a variety of fresh seafood including Pacific Oysters straight out of the loch!
with other whiskies - there's a lot
of fun to be had in this exploration
1
THE OYSTER RITUAL WITH TALISKER STORM
OYSTER SPECIES
Sydney Rock Oysters offer a variety of flavours well suited to being paired with
There are three species of oyster found
a range of whiskies,
What we call 'The Oyster Ritual' at Talisker
in Australian
complex
is a great way to enjoy the experience.
introduced.
Here's how:
Pacific Oyster (introduced) common
STEP ONE:
Pour yourself
a little (30ml) neat
waters - two native and one Sydney Rock (native) and the are the most
with Angassi (a native flat oyster)
Talisker Storm (a more intense, sea-fresh Talisker expression)
and take a sip
SYDNEY ROCK OYSTERS WITH OBAN 14-YEAR-OLD
STEP TWO: Down your freshly shucked oyster
from fruity, malts, through
to rich, intense, spicy and smoky island malts. My tip is to try Sydney Rock Oysters with a coastal Highland 14-Year-Old.
being a little less so.
ranging
and lightly peated
malt like Oban
Lightly peated,
fruity, malty
and with just a subtle
maritime
and mineral spiciness
coming
stands up to the complex
character through,
it
flavours found
in
these oysters. The native Sydney Rock Oyster - despite its name - can be found around
much of
PACIFIC OYSTERS WITH LAGAVULIN 8-YEAR-OLD
STEP THREE: Pour 30ml of Talisker into your
Australia's
oyster shell
concentrated
STEP FOUR: Drink the Talisker Storm from
Sydney Rocks offer a rich savoury flavour
next pairing
the shell
with a subtle mineral and herbaceous
yet youthfully
coastline,
though
farming
is
in New South Wales. Sticking to the West Coast of Scotland finish.
our
features the rich and powerful, fresh Lagavulin
8-Year-Old
with
Pacific Oysters. Pacific oysters were introduced
from
Japan in the 1940s, and are the most common
in Australia.
the southern Australia
Australian
They are grown in waters of South
and Tasmania, and in some New
South Wales estuaries. They tend to be more firmly textured, with a refreshing
salty/sweet
and subtle herbaceous
ocean burst
flavour - it's that
'ocean burst' that works so well with the maritime
intensity
and smoke of Lagavulin
8-Year-Old. exploredrinks.com
61
CELEBRATE THE
WHY THE '8-WORD' HAS ABRIG Whisky is enjoying a golden period of growth. This is, of course, no surprise to you if you picked up this publication - you're already a fan and proud that your local bottle-shop, bar or even pub now boasts an impressive selection Scotch, Irish, American, Australian and Japanese whiskies. But what is enabling this growth? Why is every other Joe Biogs now a member of a whisky appreciation club? WORDS SIMON MCGORAM, DIAGEO NATIONAL WHISKY AMBASSADOR The answer is what it has always been - it's thanks to the art of blending.
For you single malt devotees out there this may be a
little surprising as the 'b-word' days in polite conversation. important
is something
you rarely drop these
The thing is, the art of blending
is as
now as it has ever been and the future for this craft is
looking bright indeed.
Through
the educational
Diageo's
National
seminars and training
Whisky Ambassador,
for budding
whisky enthusiasts
isn't limited
to blended
you're drinking
is realising that the art blending
Scotch whisky, but even that single malt
has been crafted by an expert blender. As no
two casks age the same, distillery a marriage
that I run as
a real 'a-ha' moment
bottlings
of casks pulled together
are almost always
to reflect a house style or
desired flavour expression.
However, amongst the whisky drinking elite there is an endless quest for achieving a perceived purity in Scotch whisky, through an increased focus on the 'singularity' with 'limited-edition',
of the whisky they are drinking,
'non-chill filtered',
'cask-strength'
and 'single-
cask' being their markers for quality. That's a lot of hyphens
Whilst these single-cask bottlings
I
are often delicious, it's erroneous
to believe that these casks - as unique as they may be - are innately superior or reflect a distillery's true character. contrary they can be a one-dimensional
just one shade of that maker's true colour.
62 exploredrinks.com
On the
look at a distillery's style -
FEATURE
"WENEED TO REMEMBERBLENDED SCOTCHWHISI(YIS A WHISI(Y0 THEPEOPLE- MOREACCESS/BL IN NATURETHROUGHMIXABLITY, FLAVOURAND PRICE POINT.' this supreme whisky. The trouble is, even if they had it, they would then struggle to find the stock. It represents the best value for money of any whisky in the world." Despite blends having their advocates, there's a common misconception popularity
that with the rise in
of single malts, blended Scotch has
fallen by the wayside. Single malts still only make up about 10% of global volume despite their growth and have been at this level for some time - testament to the art of blending's continued
relevance. We need to remember
blended Scotch whisky is a whisky of the people By extension blended whisky enables the
a dizzyingly large array of blends including
- more accessible in nature through mixablity,
expert blender to paint a whole picture, not just
famous brands like Bells, Black & White,
flavour and price point.
in monochrome.
Old Parr, Vat 69, Buchanan's, White Horse
The different distilleries offer
access to a wider palate, with each cask in turn
and and, of course, the world's favourite whisky
offering its own shade of that colour.
Johnnie Walker.
Whisky in general, and Scotch in particular, is notorious for being an intimidating
category to
get into for novice drinkers - but if blends can This isn't new thinking in the whisky trade, with
Let's not forget that blends offer an
continue to be part of the answer here then that
famed whisky writer Dave Broom weighing in
extraordinary
is something to be celebrated.
on the debate in his book 'The World Atlas
price. Take a look at Johnnie Walker Black
of Whisky': "Malts are about intensity of
Label - a 12-year-old blended Scotch whisky.
Closer to home, we've been lucky enough to
This dram is considered a benchmark, a
see Australian whisky really take off in recent
about maximizing this singularity. Blends are
yardstick against what other whiskies should be
years but high entry level prices - usually well in
about creating a totality."
judged.
excess of $90 a bottle - mean that the majority
character," he writes. "Single malt bottlings
are
amount of complexity versus
It's assembled by a team of 12 expert
blenders, led by Doctor Jim Beveridge - only
of Australians are yet to experience its promise.
Single malts are known as being a product
Walker's 6th Master Blender in almost 200
of place, but in a blend flavour becomes
years of history - many of whom have several
I'm going to make a prediction
the focus. Blends use malts with distinctive
decades of experience in the industry. They
there's always the risk I'll get this completely
combine over 30 malt and grain whiskies from
wrong and be haunted by this being forever
regional character to create their 'totality'
but
here - and
they lean more to being a product of people
the four corners of Scotland including grassy
in print - but the art of blending
rather than place. Blends are made by experts,
Cardhu from Speyside, waxy Clynelish from the
answerl That's right in coming years we'll see
Northern Highlands, fragrant Glenkinchie from
Australian producers putting blended whisky
an innate understanding
of blending
the Lowlands and smoky Caol Ila from Islay. As
into people's hands.
and an encyclopaedic
knowledge of
a blend Black Label manages to capture all the
craftspeople providing philosophy
is the
with decades of experience
their maturing stocks.
flavours of Scotch whisky in a single glass.
The art of blending celebrated.
is something to be
It's putting more whisky into more
Jim Murray the author of The Whisky Bible once
hands, it's fundamental
is lucky to have a flavour palate that's bigger
described Johnnie Walker Black Label as, the
of single malts' house style and it's about
than anyone else. They have access to over
'Everest of deluxe whiskies', saying that, "there
unlocking and harnessing flavour. The 'b-word'
8 million casks of maturing whisky from more
is not a blender who would not give their right
- be it Scotch, Australian or other has a
than 30 distilleries enabling them to produce
arm - or even their left one - for the recipe of
promising future
At Diageo, our experienced
blending team
in our understanding
I
exploredrinks.com 63
WHISl(YROYALTY
-;:··
Jim Beveridge joined Johnnie Walker in 1979 as an analytical chemist and has gone on to be one of the most influential master blenders in the whisky world. His expertise is widely recognised and just part of the reason he is entrusted with the world's most famous whisky - Johnnie Walker. What drives the pursuit of quality is flavour,
whisky memories that propelled you into
experimentation
your illustrious career?
our small team of 12 whisky experts, we put these three pillars at the heart of everything we do.
aware of Scotch whisky. It was part of the fabric All the team are natural experimenters.
Scottish and that people were very proud of.
always questioning
We're
things and challenging
ourselves to find new flavours by u~
t·ir,."'r
•~,~ g,·
·,
I
o,ur
When I joined Johnnie Walker in as a flavour
expertise and our intuition to explore w liat:'s
chemist in 1979, working with the malt and
possible. In this way, we continue the legacy of
grain to understand how they mature in the
those six generations
wood, those early memories of just how
have stood in my shoes.
important
•
.
and a lot of patience. Leading
of Scotland, something you knew was uniquely
. :·.~··· .
__..... -
_.
.
.
explore WHISKY: What is one of your earliest
JIM BEVERAGE: Growing up, you were always
_,;it •
I
of Master Blender who
Scotch was to people started to
come together
in a more coherent way.
All of this requires a lot of patience. The nature
That's when my passion for Scotch was fired,
of whisky means that things can take a long
and that's when it became more than just a
time. If you want to experiment
job to me.
to discover something
with flavour
new, then you have to
\ .•.-.
expect to wait a long time to see the fruits of eW: Is there a philosophy that guides
your labour.
you when it comes to blending Scotch whiskies?
eW: How has your background in analytical chemistry been put into practice when it
JB: My philosophy and, indeed, that of
comes to blending whisky?
Johnnie Walker, has always been about the pursuit of quality.
JB: An understanding
of the chemistry
involved in making whisky is the bedrock of my When John Walker started blending whisky,
work. During the first years of my career with
most single malts were terribly inconsistent.
Johnnie Walker as a flavour chemist, it became
He started blending them together so that his
obvious to me how science could be applied to
whisky tasted just as good every time. John was
whisky production.
pursuing and delivering quality, and we do the same today. Bringing that philosophy to whisky
There is no doubt that an analytical mind and a
is something which proved to be extremely
scientific background
popular then, just as it is today.
is extremely useful when ·
it comes to making whisky, but before any of that you need a passion for flavour.
64 exploredrinks.com -,
._.. __JJ,JIII'".~ _.
eW: How has the heritage of the Johnnie Walker blends influenced your approach to making whisky today?
JB: I feel a great duty to all our wonderful whiskies and to ensuring the continued consistency and quality of our Scotch. There is an amazing heritage behind Johnnie Walker. We all, if you like, stand on the shoulders of giants - all the men and women who made Johnnie Walker the iconic Scotch whisky that it is today. That tradition
of skilled whisky making
and innovation is in the DNA of Johnnie Walker. What we are doing in the 21st century is expressing our version of that heritage. In my job, I am effectively trying to foresee the future. With something
like Johnnie Walker
Black Label, I'm making decisions that will have to hold for 12 or 18 years. You're leaving a legacy for those who come later, which is as daunting as fulfilling the legacy of those who've gone before. It's my job to take our experiments
and the
passion of our diverse small team of whisky experts and focus our ideas into something which honours the unbroken blending
heritage
of Johnnie Walker.
the whiskies can bring out a particular aspect
corners of Scotland all have their own distinct
or note in another whisky. For me, that means
flavour characteristics, and it's that variety of
eW: Can you mention about the role of single
understanding
flavour that's of most interest to me as a
malt and grain whisky when it comes to
comprehending
assembling a blend for Johnnie Walker?
really understanding
JB: Of course. To craft a blend means using
a single malt is not just about its own flavours and layers but
work as part of a bigger picture - and that's
For example, iconic distilleries, such as
pretty exciting
Clynelish in the north with its rich, vibrant
1
single malt and grain whiskies and, therefore, understanding
these whiskies is critical to my
work as Master Blender. It's very important
for
Master Blender.
how those things might
flavours; the peatiness of the whiskies produced
eW: Do you believe that distilling is a science and blending is an art? Please explain.
me to understand the range of flavours that
on the islands to the west of the mainland, such as Lagavulin or Talisker; the sweet and fruity single malts, such as Cardhu from Speyside;
come from each distillery and the whiskies
JB: For me, distilling and blending are both
and the Lowland whiskies, such as the delicate
they produce.
science and art. The technicalities
fresh fruit character of Glenkinchie, when
distilling, maturing and blending Scotch means
brought together
While a good single malt or grain whisky can
that you make decisions at the right moments
roundness in flavour, a richness and a balance.
be wonderful
that are defined by science - chemistry, physics
It's the combination
brings such quality to Johnnie Walker.
on its own, what really excites
of malting,
can create a wonderful of these characteristics that
me is thinking about how each of these great
and maths. Yet, there are so many moments
whiskies can also be building blocks of flavour
where imagination
to produce something that is greater than the
that make this liquid so special. The real skill is
eW: At the end of a hard days' work what do
sum of its parts.
bringing these worlds together
you find yourself pouring a glass of?
and flair are the ingredients in harmony.
Often, it's in bringing together the range of
eW: Can you mention some of your favourite
JB: Right now, I am enjoying a Johnnie Walker
flavours, characters and textures in different
single malts when it comes to using them in
highball - Johnnie Walker Red Label or Johnnie
single malts and grains that you begin to unlock
a blended Scotch? What do they bring to the
Walker Black Label and soda (or ginger - if you
the hidden depths of the individual whiskies.
flavour profile of the finished whisky?
What we do is not just about combining
prefer). It's a very refreshing tasting drink, but what I like about it most is that it showcases the
different expressions. With every whisky playing
JB: The four main whisky producing regions
whisky. It's a brilliant way to taste the richness of
its own, individual role, it's about how each of
and the single malts that come from these
Johnnie Walker.
exploredrinks.com
65
.
,-;._., .,,. ...:., ¡,:
Oak adds all the colour and most of the flavour to whisky. Not surprisingly, oak casks* are the single most expensive material in the manufacture of whisky. WORDS CHRIS MIDDLETON
In the US, straight
bourbon
and rye, by law,
can only use new charred American barrels. These wooden
white oak
sugar cubes create
over 80 per cent of bourbon For malt whisky maturation,
whiskey's flavour. over 60 per cent
The cask being a wooden apt metaphor.
sugar cube is an
Over 70 per cent of oak wood
is made up of the simple sugars cellulose, hemicellulose compounds
and xylose, plus flavouring like lignin, tannins, lactones and
of the flavours are derived from their oak
other tasty volatiles. When preparing
containers.
That's because the more delicate
the cask
whisky 69.5 per cent. Straight bourbon
takes
over four years to ripen, Scottish whisky, more than 10. Scotland's cool stable climate in dunnage breathing
warehouses
means the cask is
under less stressful conditions,
it's slower and more prolonged,
so
allowing
other
for the spirit, the cooper will toast or char the
chemical reactions to take place to enhance
malt spirit requires used casks to gain their
internal staves, caramelising
the whisky's complexity.
flavour, gently. In Scotland and Ireland, the law
a sweet cube. As soon as the spirit fills the
Tennessee, in tin-sheeted
only permits the use of oak. Today, over 95 per
cask, it soaks into the stave wood. The ethanol
barrels behave more like sponges as variations
cent of first fill casks are ex-bourbon with the remaining
barrels,
balance mainly ex-sherry
wood. That's because the bourbon
barrels can
only be used once to make bourbon. the global surge in bourbon
With
sales, there's
plenty of empty, healthy and modestly
priced
these sugars into
warehouses, the
and water act as soluble agents, dissolving
in daily temperature
the sugars and flavonoids
out of the staves to maximise extraction.
in the wood to
squeeze the whisky in and
bring the colour and flavour to the spirit. The
fermentation
ratio of water to spirit plays a vital role in the
to the base raw spirit; it's the wood and
maturation Bourbon
of different
styles of whiskies.
is usually entered into the barrel at
maturation subtraction)
and the distillation
time (extraction,
around 58 per cent ABV, by law not more than
is five times more expensive due to the sherry
62.5 per cent ABV A new charred barrel with
This important
market collapsing.
a corn-based
species of hardwood:
mash bill (malted barley plus
interaction
oak. Oak has proven
rye or wheat), stored in the warm Kentucky or
to be the ideal wood for flavour, flexible
life of a centenarian.
Tennessee countryside
shaping and extended
different
Many of the barrels are
and enjoy multiple
lives under
wood programs to mature malt and
grain whiskies.
flavours. In Scotland,
yields the best whisky larger hogshead
in cool storage conditions,
casks,
using lighter malt
spirit are filled at 63.5 per cent ABV; grain
storage. Hundreds
oak species are indigenous hemisphere.
and
raw material relies on a single
be used many times, giving some casks the
reconditioned
Grain,
contribute
that creates most of the flavour.
barrels to buy. Sherry wood, by comparison,
In Scotland, casks can
In Kentucky and
of
to the northern
Only a dozen and their sub-
species are suitable for whisky, and each
exploredrinks.com 67
'
FEATURE
and spicy notes, while Asian oaks)C? ~ercus Mongolica
and Crispula) are :_= hara _cterised "with .
sandalwood
and cedar. Each oakspe .cies has ~
its unique lifecycle and growth composition. White oak is grown for 70 years and can be sawn. European oaks take twice as long to grow, and can only be split. Even the grain of each oak tree is a product soil, position
of its terroir of
and climate. White oak grown
in cooler Pennsylvania has tighter
growth
oak's flavour. Cooperages
shape the staves
to raise the cask, which is held tight by external metal hoops, the only non-oak part
rings than white oak from warmer Arkansas.
of the cask. A gentle fire toasts the internal
In 2010, Buffalo Trace conducted
staves to convert the carbohydrates
experiment
using 137 variables and producing
1,400 expressions. included
an oak
Some of the variables
staves cut from different
stored in different
maturation
68 exploredrinks.com
staves, caramelising
parts of the
tree, some longer seasoning periods,
others
conditions.
sugars. Bourbon cooperages
The
into
scorch the
the sugars and creating a
charcoal skin inside the barrel which also acts as a natural filtration
system.
THREE DISTINCT WOODS SMOOTHER
TASTE
FEATURE
The distillery, subject to the country's whisky
its flavour profile. The top level, the buzzard's
in oloroso sherry or madeira hogsheads
regulations,
nest, is hot and stressful, the floor cooler and
an extra flavour layer. Add solera-style
has a range of options to shape
their wood policy and flavour styles of whisky
slower. Artificially
for their brands. For simplicity's sake, we'll
winter works the whisky and wood year round,
heating the barrel house in
with accelerated
blending,
and filtration
adds ageing,
processes and the
variations seem endless.
look at bourbon
and Scotch. Bourbon is
others experiment
straight-forward
as they can only use virgin
techniques
like sonification.
Finally, filtration
maturation
new American charred white oak barrels. The
treatments
and the bottling
proof will complete
distillery can choose char levels from No.1 to
the tweaking of the whisky's finished flavour.
Without
barrel is not mandatory. Some barrels are
In Scotland, they have more variables to
*Cask is a generic term for the wooden
smaller, which is how craft distillers can expedite
harness. They can use any oak, not only white
container. Casks come in different
All the colour, most of the aroma, and flavour is due to the marvellous oak, we wouldn't
qualities of oak. have whisky.
No. 4, the alligator char. The standard 200-litre
extraction
and get to market faster. The proof
oak. The can use virgin, second, third or even
with different
entry cannot be over 62.5 per cent ABV. Leaving
fourth use casks. More importantly,
litres), sherry butt (500L), hogshead
more headspace when the barrel is filled means
allowed to used barrels impregnated
more air is present to aid oxidisation.
the flavours of a previous occupant.
filled, the maturation
conditions
Once
offer many
bourbon
has the print of American
they are with Exwhisky in
names such as port pipe (650 (capacity
varies by country and industry, i.e. 300L in Australian
wine, 225 - 250L in Scotland's
whisky) and the barrel is an American
generic
more variables to affect the whisky's flavour.
the staves, ex-sherry and ex-port wood the
term for a cask (US standard
The storage conditions
residual flavours of the fortified
and Ireland are the only Western whisky-
in different types of
barrel house construction, climate (temperature,
the location, the
humidity, wind, etc.) and
location of the rick in the warehouse impacts on
"'·• \ \
~
maturation,
other techniques
flavour complexity.
wine. After add to the
Such as finishing
types of casks, where, say, another
countries
law, merely 'storage
12 months
Spirits Act of 1906.
l
··,
producing
in other
,~-
liquid
capacitates
is 200L). Australia
not to specify oak by in wood' since Australia's
HAS NEVER HAD ITSO GOOD
.-.
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72 exp lo red rinks.com
- -··
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FEATURE
Australians#hold a unique place in the world of whisky. Every year since theJ1880s, whisky has been our most popular spirit. No other country has crowned whisky the king of spirits every year for over }'30 years. Today, whisky still commands a dominant 45 per ceny of the total spirits consumed. During this reign, whisky has fou~ght off the arrival of new spirit categories arriving after the Second World War, with the influx of Eastern European and Medite, ranean immigrants, vodka and ouzo, followed by white rum,i equila and mezcal, and now cacha<;a,pisco and baijiu. Regardless of our ethnic composition, we remain a whisky nation.
I
WORDS CHRIS MIDDLETON
With ead i generation
whisky fashions
chang~ _!ft'rom Scotch to Australian back t ;
cotch and now bourbon
stimulating,
whisky.
So to eff onsumption
patterns and how we
drink:,i hiskychange.
As whisky is being
rediscovered,
into this global whisky boom
whisky,
this demand
craft distilleries
worldwide;
countries are making whisky today, a far cry
Mille ~ nials, it's the cocktail trend and sipping
the rapid expansion over a thousand
renewed interest.
our per capita consumption
of ~ isky is declining.
they too have
from a dozen counties in the 1980s. Following
whiskies that are creating Co ~~ terintuitively,
if not
increased more than fivefold since 2008. Fifty
from Baby Boomers to
'"'
Joining,
is the arrival of small
in the distilling
even more new line extensions
In other words, as the
industry,
new whisky brands, and released from
existing brands, are hitting the market. Never
po i ulation increases, new cohorts enter and
before have we had such choice, competitive
ol tr er ones live longer, whisky is not keeping
prices, and outstanding
'If
styles of whisky to
P.ace. In recent years, whisky case sales
drink, from Taiwan to Sweden, Scotland to
~.ave declined,
Kentucky. This boom is described
II
yet the amount of money
new 'Golden
we spend has upsurged. The reason: we
as whisky's
Age'. Much of it is high quality
at good value, as advances in science, technology
and inventiveness
push whisky
into new and exciting directions,
from grain
to wood. 1!' • · \i~ T 11e eJ ta bl.Is h e d
to dominate
. . I b ran d s continue . , 1nternatIona
our whisky landscape, with the
three top brands holding
half of the total
whisky sales. In the small malt segment, five malt brands dominate. garnered
Attention
is being
by the new craft segment, which has
carved out a noisy half per cent share in the whisky category. Craft is the amorphous
"'.1/- - ·, ~~
/
-
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attributed
....... -
to micro-distilleries
ups that have populated
. . -:..-. :.._,,,, ,,....., .---
term
and nano start-
the whisky landscape
,- over the past two decades. Their smaller
•. ~"
...l ~;. _., -.
.
~
.
.
-
scale -operation
and m ; re manual resourcing
have conferred
on them the perception
of
-----~
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exploredrinks.com
73
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J
being more artisan than significant distilleries. In marketing parlance, provenance and authenticity make craft whiskies more popular with younger drinkers seeking to discover a brand, especially as the cocktail phenomenon sweeps the night economy. Marketing the provenance to a town, suburb or district, sourcing local ingredients and being operated by locals spurs in the consumer a sense of small, local and intimate, earning them the 'craft' moniker. As Australia's sizeable industrial whisky distilleries were shutting-down, the new small craft movement was in ideation. By the mid1990s, the old Australian whisky brands that dominated sales for decades disappeared, from both the liquor shelves and memory: Corio, Four Seasons, Bond 7, etc. As the last of the large distilleries silenced their stills, it was school teachers, gun store owners, property developers, plumbers and publicans who put their hands to experimental whisky distilling. It was as if a bushfire had wiped out the old hardwood trees and new shoots reappeared from their ashes. Most of these new craft whiskies were poorly made, young whiskies that struggled in the 21st century. Some of these distilleries closed, however persistence and outsider help slowly improved the quality. Twenty years later, some labels were winning awards in competitions. The success of these pioneers and the low barriers to entry attracted dozens of wannabe distillers. Some were looking for a sea change, others to lure tourists to a food stop and, for younger recruits, a different and romantic career path beckoned. The transmission of knowledge and skills proliferated, with specialist suppliers like still fabricators, coopers and maltsters serving this demand. From 10 whisky distillery start-ups in 2005, a
74 exploredrinks.com
hundred operate or are in development Australia today.
in
In 2018, spirit production is projected to exceed one million litres of pure alcohol. The six largest distilleries generate over two-thirds of this spirit. By 2021, capacity could increase by another four million litres, as significant plant upgrades and new large distilleries are erected to capitalise on this current upswing.
Australia, along with the rest of the world is experiencing an exciting and expansive whisky era. There are extraordinarily good, high calibre new whiskies released almost every day, and the major distilleries keep improving their international brands. The massive leaps in world production and entry by new players mean prices, quality and choice will remain very competitive. The whisky drinker has never had it so good.
FEATURE
TEN LITTLE-KNOWN AUSTRALIAN WHISKY FACTOIDS • Australia was the fifth largest whisky producing nation in the world until the 1960s, when Japan moved up the rankings: 1. Scotland , 2. US, 3. Canada, 4. Ireland. • Today, Australian whisky represents less than 0.03 per cent of total world whisky sales, excluding Indian and Thai molasse s-based whiskies. • Australian whisky whisky drunk, yet cent of the global Thai whisky made
holds 0.3 per cent of the Australians drink over 5 per whisky (excluding India and with molasses).
• About 100 distilleries make whisky, two-thirds of the sales are from STARWARD, Hellyers Road and Limeburners . • In the 1920s, Australia had the largest malt whisky distillery in the world, Federal Distillery, in Port Melbourne . It also had the world's largest mash tun at 2.75 million litres. • Until 1994, two of Australia's largest grain whisky distilleries quietly operated in Botany, Sydney and Nuriootpa in the Barossa Valley. Seagram's Continental and United Distillers closed these distilleries as the first nano-malt whiskies started. • Australia has the highest per capita consumption of bourbon in the world, 2.5 times more than the US. • In 1925, the number one selling brand of whisky in Australia was Old Court. It was an Australian blended malt whisky, the first and only time a malt whisky brand was a market leader anywhere in the world. • The first Australian whisky was made at Parramatta by the Webb brothers in 1793; by 1796 distilling was banned until 1822 . • Australia was the UK's top export market for Scotch whisky every year from 1880 to 1939. After the Second World War, Australian whisky brands held 75% of the local whisky market.
expl o redrinks.com 75
MEET: DAVID VITALE, FOUNDER OFSTARWARD WHISKY David Vitale established Starward Whisky in 2004 under a simple premise - whisky doesn't need to be complicated and inaccessible. He saw a gap in the market for young, great tasting whisky at an approachable price point, and turned his hobby brewing skills towards making this vision a reality. The proof is in the pudding, as Starward has been lauded both in Australia and abroad, and now produces 250,000 litres per annum. explore WHISKY caught up with David recently to find out how he got started in the industry, why he believes Australian whisky is unique and what he sees for the future of the category. explore WHISKY: Your background isn't in the WHISKY industry. What inspired you to create Starward whisky and how have you come to this point? David Vitale: My background
is actually in
hobby home brewing. That was my weekend passion. I used to own an elearning delivering professional development advisors, and developed
business, to financial
a bit of a passion for
making stuff at home. I thought, when I sold the elearning
business, that I would perhaps set up
a micro-brewery but, unfortunately, good beer doesn't travel well - as we all know. So, I shelved that idea and went back into consulting before realising that, indeed, single malt whiskies have a lot in common with craft beers, in terms of that provenance of place and that story. So, once
I realised that single malts were basically just distilled beers, I applied all ofthat learning and passion I had for brewing into whiskies, which travel a whole heap better around the world. The origin was really thinking about whisky from a craft beer perspective. eW: To your knowledge, at this stage were there other distilleries in Australia attacking whisky production from this perspective, or did Starward lead the way? DV: I actually discovered whisky at the Lark
Distillery. Up until then, my understanding
of
whiskies was very limited. Chivas Regal was what we gave our accountant as a gift at Christmas, and Johnnie Walker Red was what my Greek friend's Dad drank when they were playing cards.
76 exploredrinks.com
MEET we're using those red wine barrels, and very few
perhaps talk to bartenders that have got a
distilleries around the world mature their whisky
range of Australian whiskies and explore the
from the day it's made in red wine casks.
category through flights. Use those bartenders as a fountain of knowledge that can help you
eW: What is your ongoing vision for
navigate what flavours you like and don't like.
Starward?
The challenge for Australian whisky, really, is the availability of stock. The hard part is you might
DV: To me it's mainly to be the approachable,
like a whisky that isn't necessarily available
affordable Australian whisky that you can share
anymore, and so we always strive to be as
with friends. We're not too concerned if it's
consistent and accessible as possible.
used in a cocktail or not - we're not precious about how it is used. I'm really excited about the opportunity
for us to broaden the audience
of whisky, because it is more approachable
eW: As a dynamic industry, whisky is always looking ahead. What do you see as the future of Australian whisky?
and carries those wine flavours, which gives it something different and exciting in comparison
DV: I think the future is really bright. I'm
to the whiskies that come through from the Old
confident that between the likes of the
World. I think for us, it's about taking Starward to
Tasmanian distilleries, Limeburners on the west
the world and making sure every self-respecting
coast, Archie Rose in Sydney and ourselves, that
back bar has a bottle of it on the shelf to talk
there's the potential for Australian whisky to be
about why Australian whisky is interesting.
the next Japanese whisky.
That was my world of whisky. It was almost by
eW: What do you think sets Australian
eW: For any readers looking to potentially
accident that I went into the Lark Distillery and
whisky apart from the Old World whiskies?
explore their own craft ventures, what would be your advice?
saw all these single malts on the back bar. That was the moment. It was like a light switched on
DV: We've been talking about this a lot,
and I went, "Wow, I can't believe the similarities
actually. Generally, in terms of, 'Why is
DV: Be patient. But more importantly, you
(between this and craft beer production)."
Australian whisky so interesting?'
need to have real clarity about what the vision
compared
Bill Lark at Lark Distillery and Patrick Maguire
to bourbon and Scotch. I think a lot of it has
at Sullivan's Cove were already in the market,
to do with the fact that all of Australia's brands
Because there will be moments through the
selling amazing whisky that was starting to
were created by living people who have a
whole process where it's going to be really
get attention around the world. So, I always
story to tell about why they've gone down this
tough. We've gone through some pretty
knew we could make great whisky in Australia.
journey. We all make great whisky, and so does
white-knuckled
It was about saying, "How do we get it out of
the Old World, so it's not quality. You're not
what really kept the team going through those
the special occasion cabinet into the sharing
going to live long on a shelf if you don't have
periods of time was a real clear vision and
cabinet?" I think this is something Starward has
quality, and that's no different between Old
purpose for the brand and the whisky. It serves
led the way on. It wouldn't be necessarily making
and New World. It's really about the ability to
as your North Star, without being cliched. The
great Australian whisky - we've been doing
engage the consumer with a really interesting
guiding principles of what you're trying to do
that for a long time. It's probably us being very
story about why you're making whisky. Then
will come back and help you get through those
passionate about moving whisky into the sharing
the second part, I think, is obviously flavour. All
difficult times.
cabinet and making it more accessible.
of the whiskies that we make in Australia are
eW: What about Starward makes it uniquely
for the business is and why you're doing it.
moments in our history, and
flavour forward, and celebrate the place that
eW: What's new on the horizon for
they're made.
Starward? Are there any new releases or
Australian?
events coming up? eW: What advice would you give to a consumer who is looking to approach the
DV: We've just launched our first bottled
whisky in Australian wine barrels. You can't be
DV: It's pretty straightforward:
whisky category, but doesn't know where
cocktail, which is really an opportunity
any more clearly Australian than that. All of
to begin?
whisky on the dinner table and shared with
it's Australian
the ingredients that we use for Starward are,
to get
friends, and we're really excited about that.
basically, a day's drive away from the distillery.
DV: This is a bit self-serving, but one of the
They're limited releases. This is the first in a
If you compare that to, say, Scotch whisky, they
reasons I started the distillery was to be that
series of cocktails we're going to launch, so in
source their barrels from Spain, and Portugal
first rung on the ladder of Australian whiskies.
the New Year, we'll have a new one coming
and America, and barley is grown all throughout
I don't think I'd be speaking out of line to say
out which is pretty exciting. The bottled
Scotland and Europe. So, from our point of
that even $90AUD, which is what Starward
cocktail is a pretty important
view, Starward is more Australian than Scotch
costs, is a lot of money for a whisky. I think
whole idea of making whisky more
is Scottish. It's distinctly Australian because
what you want to do is actually go to a bar,
approachable
part of that
and accessible. exploredrinks.com
77
There is no such person as the 'average' Australian. We're individuals differentiated by gender, age, ethnicity, size, education, etc. Similarly, whiskies made in Australia are differentiated by grains, wood, age, size, location, etc. This variety makes our whisky landscape diverse and exciting. ,"'WORDS CHRIS MIDDLETON
·, '
This emergent whisky diversity will allow
globally traded consumer commodities,
some distilleries to find niches to survive
be commercially
and commercially
superior quality, value-for-money
grow, while the whisky
to
viable brands must deliver
market remains buoyant. Whether a distillery
distinctiveness.
the Australian whisky industry also depends
like Scotland', 'bourbon-st ~ ryes' or venturing
experimental
mashes', into more
whisky routes, many have
The revival and surv ival of
--...
on these business imperatives.
Ideally,
Australian whisky brands need to stand apart from the international
competition,
with
found a place within the market. The impact
meaningful
of our local raw materials, internal processes
The liquid diversity emerging
and environmental
country indicates the industry is off to a good
conditions
have gradually
started to influence the range of styles and flavours. Because whisky is one of the most
78 exploredrinks.com
differences to attract drinker ~.
start in a long race.
-
{··
, ) •
and brand
started with the premise of making 'malts 'American
1
.. /,\\
across the
""1
investments to increase capacity, this potential exists. At present, subtle differences vectors can be attributed of local ingredients, and environmental
in flavour
to the influences
processes, equipment conditions.
These
diverse inflexion points are present in five manufacturing
areas.
GRAIN: As mentioned much experimentation
earlier, there has been with different grain
species and varieties, using different specifications.
malting
Some smoke the grain with local
peat and hardwoods,
others mash with mixed
grain. There's whisky made from oats, corn, corn/rye/barley the hot, dry inland, as well as micro-climates
nearly half of them make whisky. For many, it's
every capital city, except Darwin. They distil all
Australian
part of a broader spirits portfolio
kinds of grain, including
from numerous local hybrids bred for local
including gin,
in
and rye whisky. The majority
Of the two hundred odd distilleries in Australia,
rye, oats, rice, wheat,
of whisky made in Australia uses 100 per cent malted barley. This barley originates
vodka, rum and liqueurs. A few distil hundreds
barley and corn, with most of the grain locally
cultivating
of thousands of litres, most a few thousand or
grown. Most distilleries brew their own wash,
beer industry and exports. The large maltsters
only a few hundred litres a year. There's much
some contract it from local breweries. Similarly,
practice differing
diversity in size and capacity. Today, there are
when it comes to casks there also a wide variety
procedures which affects colour, flavour, aroma
over forty local whisky labels, but less than a
of different types and sizes, from new virgin oak
and fermentability.
dozen are found in leading off-premise
containers, ex-bourbon,
varieties, there are vast regional choices (Scope,
chains.
There's also a wide variety of liquid quality and
80-year-old fortified
in price points. A few are competitively
oldest in the world.
most are over-priced.
priced;
ex-rum and ex-wine, to
ex-wine casks, some of the
small distillers face, having no trading access to
Colloquial
any cost-efficiencies
divergences
Amongst
and kilning
the local barley
La Trobe and Planet, etc.) and the different malting specifications
markers or small discernible
primarily to serve the
germinating
offering distilleries
It's a cost of entry penalty
from grain to bottle. Some
conditions,
subtle differences
(pilsner, ale, amber, etc.)
much scope to formulate in their wash.
are evident in Australian techniques,
which could impact
FERMENTATION: Distillers can select from
are remarkably good whiskies, and there are
production
some prettty poor whiskies too.
finished whiskies. Whether any of these
an international
will coalesce into charming and distinctive
yeast strains from wine and ales to add to the
Whisky distilleries are scattered across all states
styles, only time and investment will tell. As
high-yielding
and operate in every type of climate: tropical
nano-distilleries*
fermenting
North Queensland
larger enterprises are undertaking
to cool Tasmania, and even
continue to mushroom and substantial
shopping
list of proprietary
distiller's yeast. Yeast strains and conditions
and compounds
result in different esters
in the beer before distillation.
exploredrinks.com 79
CASKS: The oak cask has the most significant impact on whisky's flavour. Distillers exercise a range of options from cask size to wood programs. What the cask previously held in its first use for maturation finished product.
directly affects the
Many craft distillers rely on
smaller capacities (50, 100 and 150 litres) to expedite
maturation
to meet Australia's two-
years minimum in wood. However, reducing the liquid to wood ratios risks extracting unbalanced
oaky
whiskies. Established distilleries
have built up more in-depth
inventories.
Australia's thriving wine industry provides tawny, apera, muscat and wine casks to 'Australianise' the whiskies. Wine hogsheads, as well as ex-bourbon
barrels, rum barriques and/or
new virgin casks, add to this extensive flavour palette. Other maturation
methods use wood
inserts, paxarette and experimental
staves
from local hardwoods. When the different grain mashes, yeasts and distilling
plant get added
to the differing wood policies; the sensory matrix explodes geometrically.
The challenge,
as brands develop, is to market a consistent whisky. Otherwise, the variability for consumers means unpredictability
post-purchase.
MATURATION: There's no such thing as perfect climate to mature whisky. Just different climates for different whiskies. Over time, distillers learn to shape their whisky styles, from their new-make to the best wood policies, to their local climate and their storage conditions. Even entry proof of the spirit to cask and other maturation
As well as different yeasts, fermenting
the traditional
techniques
shapes vary considerably
also vary. Tasmanian distillers often
favour long fermentations
where spent yeast
pots still, although their from onions to
charentias alembics, flattops to boil balls, or
factors can be adjusted
to manipulate
flavour outcomes. The hotter
temperatures
across Australia draws the whisky
into the stave wood more aggressively than cooler climates. In metal warehouses during
cells are not captured in the wash, making for
Moorish Iberians to pinched conical shapes.
heat waves, the temperature
a lighter spirit. A dozen or more distilleries
There are also small column stills, column-
at roof level. In hotter, drier climate means
can reach 60°C
are practising the American sour mash
pot hybrids, retorts and doublers. Six local
most distillers can eliminate years of ageing,
method, setting aside a percentage
still fabrications
as Mother Nature extracts rich flavours faster,
of spent
serve growing craft distillers;
distiller's wash for the next ferment. Yeasts and
others are supplied from Germany, Britain,
while evaporating
fermentation
America, Italy, Spain, China, Czech Republic
Others mature in cool subterranean
to the diversity of flavour variations in the wash
and Portugal. Their engineering
minimising
variability allowing estification
before distillation.
methods of operation
complexity
to emerge slowly over time.
methodologies
add incrementally
design and
effect reflux, heating and
more water than ethanol. sites, with and
speed, while double batch or triple distillations
STILLS: Most are full copper, while a few have
influences the structure of the final distillate.
stainless steel, which affects the flavour profile.
Here again, these subtle variations in new-make
exciting chapter in Australia's 21st-century
When it comes to still shapes, size and design,
distillate will influence the finished whisky after
whisky redux, and brands that have meaningful
it is a multinational
spending
differences will be written into this story.
affair. Most are variations on
years in wood.
The current whisky diversity represents an
exploredrinks.com 81
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INGENIOUS USES FOR EX-WHISKY BARRELS Speak to any whisky connoisseur for long enough about the spirit they love and you'll see the almost reverent way they regard the humble barrel. The more you listen and learn, the more this esteem makes sense, for it's in the barrel that spirit becomes whisky as we know it - full of flavour, viscosity and subtle character. The barrel is the mother of whisky, holding and nurturing the spirit until it's ready to face the big wide world. And like any mother, its influence on its progeny is immense. WORDS STEPHANIE AIKINS
With such respect and interest held in their
decades old tradition
lives, it seems to many almost sacrilege to
stretches across continents,
simply discard the barrel in death. To go from
within the industry that whisky styles
of old oak seems dismissive and wasteful, and has come into
it was a cost effective choice for war-ravaged British producers, but Scottish and Irish
and distilleries.
whisk(e)y makers were more than happy to
being a hotly sought after resource to a pile that's where human innovation
barrels once the war came to an end. Perhaps
In an attempt to create work for coopers and
take the once-used barrels off the Americans'
loggers during the Great Depression, the
hands. These barrels took with them about four
play. We live in a world where sustainability
American government
to five per cent of spirit that had been aged in
forms the basis of all we do, while the desire for
bourbon
products that feel personalised
Keep in mind though, the big players like
hint of bourbon flavour to the Scottish and
us drives our buying habits. The result of these
Brown-Forman
Irish expressions.
intertwining
fewer times a barrel is used the more flavour it
phenomena
be re-imagined decorations,
and unique to
is that the barrel can
into a seemingly endless list of
tools and accoutrements.
The adaptation
and re-use of barrels isn't a
new concept, however. In fact it links to a
82
exploredrinks.com
mandated
in 1938 that
could only be aged in new barrels.
were already doing this, as the
imparts to the spirit. The war effort during WWII may have halted the distillation
of new
their interiors, which added a slight desirable
There are certain sought after characteristics based on which a Scottish or Irish
whiskeys but it didn't stop consumers from
whisk(e)y maker will choose a barrel. The type
drinking the already matured barrel-aged
of oak used, the amount of roasting or charring
expressions, resulting in a huge surplus of used
of the barrel and the spirit that has sat in it are
FEATURE
,
~·
all important factors when choosing a b.=
l~!n.
a happy ~~incid e nce, the traditional American -~-r · Oak ex-bourbon barrels, or Ouercus Alba, . ,, '
•
r ..
----. .......
-
.·
..
were not only relatively cheap and pl; ntiful in ·
•:'I,
the mid-20th century, but wer ~ fou,~i to inst_il delicate woody .characteristics ,
in the whisKy
:~
and promote subtle notes of v.anilla and sweet
:4 on ,U.Sc< .. <
caramelisa =fhj""
• , ., coconut due to ,the . the lignin and 'l ood sugars. Hence tnese - '.'."'·, ... . , indus .tries became largely dependent barre l imp.'.='.( ~
•"""r. i' •. '. ,, . -' ... ~t.~ During the same time per.iod, soo1itre , •• ,·;,-'. • ' ~ 1V'. '\ ' European oak ~ utts us; d to trt nsp ~rt sherry 1~;: from Spain to the UK were also being re-used ' as a vessel . fo ; ; ing wh i; ky. It ~ as fou r d I
4•
·.·."..:,ti
the remnants of sherry absorbed
into the
. wood enhanced the dried fruit a~d n·utty
•.:"f .
·.\!
• characteristics in the whisky.
'•
As 80_per cent of a whisky's final flavour comes ·, from the oak cas_k it rests in, it's common practice nowadays to use multiple types of oak to mature a spi.rit. Generally the first cask ,, i, · used is the American oak ex-bourb o~ barrel, .: which gives the whisky a good base before European oak, previously used to mature rum, cognac, oloroso sherry, fortified wines like port or madeira, or wines such as pinot noir or Bordeaux reds, rounds out the flavours. Beer '" casks like former stout or IPA barrels are also growing in popularity.
exploredrinks.com
83
FEATURES
, ,,
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For those bourbon
-
barrels that don't make it to
- -
---=-~
Bonnie Scotland or the Emerald Isle, the cycle of re-purposing
will see them sent off to Mexico
for aging tequila or the Caribbean to be filled with rum. Many breweries have also jumped on board, requesting
ex-bourbon
barrels
to age their craft beer. A quick 'Google'
will
bring up the array of 'whisky barrel flavoured'
Now they say necessity is the mother
manufacturer
food products now available, from coffee,
of invention, but it's certainly true that
entirely made of whisky casks.
tea and vanilla, to maple syrup and even hot
sentimentality
sauce. When at one point a large player like
ingenuity. It's for the sake of sentimentality
Wild Turkey was sitting on 30,000 barrels they
we've seen 'dead' whisky barrels transformed
with Cut Throat Knives to create an extremely
couldn't
into some pretty quirky keepsakes.
limited edition knife carved from ex-barrel
give away, now an ex-bourbon
barrel
Renovo in 2017 to create a bike
has spawned its fair share of that
will cost about $60-$70 US and is in
Even on home soil, Starward whisky has worked
staves. Although
each knife was priced at
hot demand.
In 2016, New Zealand bartender Andrew
$730AUD and only five were made, that didn't
Brown and local timepiece
stop them from selling out in only four minutes.
However, just as all good things come to an
Watches, recycled old Glenfiddich
makers, Roys Road casks into
end, so the barrel eventually loses its ability
a rather elegant watch. In the same year,
What unites these seemingly eclectic uses for
to impart flavour. At this stage, it was once
Glenmorangie
the modest whisky barrel is the dedication
thought
spectacles maker, Finlay & Co., to make a set of
there was little left to do than ship the
teamed up with renowned
of
time and effort to creating some truly unique
barrel off to landfill, leaving it to age until its
sunglasses made from the same American oak
and beautiful. That reverence for the barrel
rusted metal hoops fell off and its staves turned
used to age the Scotch. This isn't the Highland
throughout
to dust; that or convert them into somewhat
distiller's only unorthodox
through our desire to fashion it in 'death' into
quaint garden features or kitsch bar tables.
with it also partnering
84 exploredrinks.com
reuse of its barrels,
with leading bicycle
something
its many stages of life is expressed
timeless and part of our every day.
Home to the brand since 2016, the 3,500 square metre Port Melbourne warehouse offers visitors an insight into Staward's distillation and unique maturation processes through its open-plan design. Guests can see first-hand the distillation equipment and the 2,500 barrels, mainly apera casks and wine casks, maturing some 120,000 litres of spirit. Upon entering, there is an unexpected warmth to the bar space, with a large, indoor tree acting as the focal point of the room. The raw and polished timber fixtures and couches are both welcoming and stylish, while the large open bar invites guests to sit down, relax and take a dram or two. As well as Starward's popular solera and wine cask aged whiskies, the bar serves limited edition expressions from the New World Projects experimental series, available only at the distillery. Iftaking your whisky neat doesn't tickle your fancy, there is also a range of cocktails on offer. There is a small menu of cheese and charcuterie boards for those feeling a
ADDRESS: 50 Bertie Street,
little peckish.
Port Melbourne VIC 3207 ::? T:03 9005 4420 . .' ..........
__,,,_,__
W: starward.com.au OPENING HOURS:
Thursda ys: 6pm-1 0pm Fridays and Saturdays: 12pm-10pm Sundays: 12pm-8pm 0
STJ\'R WARD 't#HISKT A-IAK{lt! ~ll,I Q L ~
OISllLL tR~
or AUSTIU •u ;
f'fN'.lt~OM.U,1.,.,r,,:,1
• ~IU
• ~~
TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Starward Whisky Distillery Tour:
~ .• ,,
$1 Opp, 1hr. on line bookings. Friday-Sunday: Various times Starward Whisky Masterclasses:
$120pp, 2hr. Online bookings. Saturdays & Sundays: 11 :30am Private tours: Contact Nicola via
exploredrinks.com
85
''
THE FUTURE FOR -- --'
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The Scotch whisky industry is currently , ex p e·r ;encing a p: r;Jd of g ~~wth unprecedented in its entire history, founded upori anticipated glob al sale~ over the coming decades. But have the actuaries, and market forecasters :,•• got their sums right? In this article, I will co·nsider some of the fact 8 rs:~;c · ~ · which are likely to influence the fortunes of S~otch in·the coming years. ·.'
"7:..
...
. - __ --
J:_~ __
-:-,h·
In his annual Scotch Whisky Industry Review, leading analyst Alan S. Gra Y,::..<. -._. ~---~:-includes a lengthy section titled 'Problems Facing the Industry'. The mo s( ~ .-h recent edition (2016) lists over twenty such 'problems'. So what follows is .:--:~· · -· .,.:-~ ~-~~ -by no means exhaustive! ·,,... <~---:s~:c:f-~;::-=--_;~~;~ ,~~-~-0
~?:•;-.:~:=-•1o.~ .. ,·:·~...::=7 ?~~-
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As a historian, I will begin by looking at the past.
-~
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--
.
-_:..-
---- ... --~- ...._---:-
-.;.-,,,,,. --=-_··:.-
WORDS CHARLES MACLEAN
LESSONS FROM HISTORY
1823. The Act made it possible for small
cholera and typhus and by a general recession
distillers to make good whisky and sell it at a
in many countries.
The market for Scotch whisky has
reasonable
dropped
always been cyclical. The industry has
of the modern whisky industry. Between 1824
litres of pure alcohol (LPA)], and there were
expanded
and 1834 no less than 260 distillers took out
many bankruptcies
licenses. Many had previously
But 20 distilleries
capacity to meet demand,
then contracted
as demand falters. There
have been three significant expansion,
each of which has resulted in
over-production, demand
eras of
price, which laid the foundations
been distilling
outside the law; all were small operations,
and
beyond the industry's control.
within the whisky trade. established
during the
The second period of dramatic expansion Then came 'The Hungry Forties', presaged
was during the 1890s when 40 new distilleries
by poor harvests in the late 1830s and
were commissioned,
compounded
blending
by the terrible
potato blight,
which caused the death of millions in Ireland
burgeoning
and Scotland, followed
operation.
by outbreaks
of
many of them built by
houses to supply malt for their
following
86 exploredrinks.com
of Scotch
decade are still in production.
The first boom period was the decade the passing of the Excise Act
Consumption
by nearly 20 per cent [2.6 million
most businesses failed after only a few years.
owing to a collapse in
mainly caused by factors
·
trade. 19 of these are still in There were 161 working distilleries
FEATURE in 1899, which saw the annual increase in
of whisky under bond had quadrupled
stock rise from just under 5.2 million LPA in
over 2.5 billion LPA.
to well
1891-2 to 35 million LPA 1897-98. By 1900,
bio-energy
stocks under bond were massively out of
In 1981 and 1986, 29 distilleries
proportion
out of production;
18 of them have remained
closed - although
three, Brora, Rosebank and
to demand,
and between
1906 a variety of factors combined confidence
in Scotch-
downturn,
including
goes without saying that ancillary facilities warehousing,
1900 and
to destroy
an economic
were taken
Port Ellen, are currently being revived.
changes in fashion, price-cutting
EXPANDING CAPACITY
and increased taxation.
bottling
plants, cooperages
or upgraded. In addition
to these new distilleries,
well-known
distilleries
expanded.
Several have doubled
1955 and
1975, during which 24 new distilleries commissioned modernised.
were
and many more expanded
and
All but six of these are still in
many
have been substantially
and three - The Glenlivet,
capacity,
Glenfiddich
The Macallan - are building The third boom era was between
and
plants - have also been increased
and
massive new
The current whisky boom eclipses these boom
distilleries
periods.
million, around 20 million (yet to be divulged)
Never has so much been invested
in expanding
production.
32 new distilleries
on site, capable of producing
32
and 17 million LPA per annum respectively.
opened between 2004 and 2017. At least five
production.
The reasons for the rapid growth
more will open in 2018, including
of distilling
in the 1960s lie in the relaxation
Lagg and Ardnahoe,
Macallan II,
Over the past ten years, malt whisky
capacity
production
capacity has increased by a
to produce slightly over 73 million LPA a year.
staggering
60 per cent, from 239 million LPA
States market, which had taken the bulk of
12 of these distilleries
in 2007 to 383 million LPA in 2017. Of course,
exports since the end of the war, showed
LPA), 11 are medium-sized
a phenomenal
but nine are capable of producing
of restrictions
American
on production.
The United
rate of expansion.
In 1960,
imports were 54 million LPA; by
with a combined
are small (under 200,000 (200-750,000 LPA), in excess of
not all distilleries
operate
year, as annual output
at capacity every
is based on anticipated
future requirements.
one million LPA per annum.
1968 they were 150 million LPA. I know of a further 25 distilleries
which are
It was not to last. The first oil crisis (1973) and
either proposed
the end of the Vietnam War (1975), which
plus the three which are being revived. It
had stimulated
or under construction,
The optimism
manifested
by this increase in
capacity is based upon the anticipated
global
demand for Scotch whisky over the coming
the US market, combined
with a general economic
recession in the
West and a move away from brown spirits in favour of vodka, white rum and wine to make trading
difficult for Scotch whisky. A further
severe global recession in the early 1980s exacerbated
the problem.
over-production
The spectre of
hovered over the industry:
between
1960 and 1980 output
doubled
(to 260 million LPA), and the amount
had more than
exploredrinks.com 87
decades - a remarkably tricky exercise, vulnerable control,
The smaller distilleries
to factors beyond the industry's
including
international
the global economy and
politics,
alcohol regulations,
not to mention sale of fiscal arrangements
and
fashion in over two hundred markets.
will rely on bottling
and selling their makes as single malts. On
malt whisky drinkers, like wine drinkers, are
the one hand, global sales of malt whisky
pluralist (they don't stick rigidly to one brand),
have steadily increased over the past ten
and they are keen to explore - but will they
years; on the other, the difficulties
buy a second bottle ... ? Furthermore,
bringing
of
their products to market cannot
be under-estimated. right and their crystal balls well
Many smaller distillers more significant
ROUTES TO MARKET
for building production
distilleries'
fall into two
and 'mainstream
as 'craft
distilleries',
by
and large based on size/capacity. The larger units - some built by leading whisky companies
a new distillery
and funding
Grant & Sons), some by well-funded controlled
by people with
long experience
in the whisky industry - will
mainly follow the traditional
Scotch whisky
industry practise of trading
the majority of
their spirit/whisky
for blending
purposes.
Parallels might be drawn with the current explosion
in gin brands.
Having said this, it is possible that nontraditional
routes to market via online (global)
sales will become increasingly
owner of Kilchoman
smaller producers.
Distillery on Islay with a
GLOBAL COMPETITION
day. But this is only the beginning
of the story.
Scotch is facing stiff competition non-Scotch
The problem
is finding
and distributors
reliable agents
whiskies/whiskeys,
increase in the years to come.
brand owner wants to operate keeping them supplied
in, and
with product
The vast increase in capacity mentioned if the
above is paralleled
statistics below relate to 'The Big Four' non-
perspective,
Scotch producers,
the cha Ilenge is to persuade
while the retailer protests,
for the first time.
it has been unsteady over the
past ten years.
88 exploredrinks.com
in many countries. The
brand does well. From the distributors'
global market for blended
the most recent figures are
from and this will
in every market the
countries
But although
for
staff of five, is around ÂŁ3,000 a
retailers to stock new and unknown brands
encouraging,
important
We shall see.
current capacity of 240,000 LPA, estimates that the cost of energy, raw materials, wood and
This route to market is useful, so long as the Scotch is buoyant.
range of brands
released to the market.
spirit can be named 'Scotch'. Anthony Wills,
(Diageo, Pernod Ricard, Edrington,
new enterprises
the
in the not-too-
than finding the investment
for at least three years before the
the production
William
haved mentioned
this as being the single greatest hurdle -
camps which might be described
will be compounded
and expressions
polished.
It's clear that the new distilleries
problem
distant future by the growing
Let's hope the marketers have their projections
The answer may well be 'yes' to start with -
"In order to stock
but there are many other
all over the world distilling
whisky
your new malt, I must remove an existing malt. Am I more likely to sell yours than a
In the USA, the number of Distilled Spirits
well-known
Permits (DSPs) - the federal permit required
brand?"
FEATURE
of which include whisky as part of their spirits portfolio
- maybe only a cask or two made
during the year. Over 90 per cent are small nano-distillers
(under 25,000 LPA
capacity). By my calculations,
nearly 80 per
cent of Australia's whisky is produced
by the
top seven distilleries." In addition
to 'The Big Four' non-Scotch
producers,
mention
the largest producer
must be made of India, and consumer in the
world: seven out of the top ten largest selling to operate
a distillery
lawfully-
has grown
8.7 million 9-litres cases in 2016) with sales
from below 100 in 2007, to 560 in 2010, to
projected
to exceed 12 million cases by 2020,
1,825 in 2016. In 2015 alone, almost 400 DSPs
and 24 million by 2030.
have been operating
in the United States - an
industry that was virtually non-existent
15
has gone
Canada's
leading whisky writer, tells me: "Canada's
But it should be remembered
eight major whisky distilleries
Scotch whisky industry cannot afford to be
have been
by over 100 micro-distilleries,
half of which are beginning The number of Japanese distilleries
at least
to make whisky.
Together, these new entrants produced
complacent,
that, while the
Scotch currently sells three times
more than its nearest rival.
less
from eight to 20 since 2010, while the total
than 0.1 per cent of the 22.5 million cases
export value of Japanese whisky has increased
of whisky bottled
nearly tenfold
slightly as new producers'
from 1.07 billion yen (about
'whisky'
cereal grains. My friend, Davin de Kergommeaux,
joined
years ago.
Indian whisky is not technically
since the base material is molasses, not
were issued, a rate of more than one per day. Since 2016, more than 1,000 craft distilleries
brands by volume are Indian. However, most
REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL
in 2016. This will increase stocks begin to
Whisky is now being made in significant
$10 million AUD) in 2006 to 10.378 billion yen
mature. Canada consumes just 15 per cent
quantities
(more than $100 million AUD) in 2015.
of its production
of the makes are high quality. They are also
Ireland grew from five to 18 distilleries
contributes
between 2013 and 2017, with a further 16
gross domestic
at home, exporting
rest to over 155 countries.
proposed.
Not all are small: William
the
Overall, distilling
$5.8 billion annually to Canada's product."
designed
all over the world, and the best to be different
to Scotch, and
are certainly not an imitation.
But are these
whiskies a serious threat to Scotch?
Grant's
Tullamore Distillery has a capacity of 3.6
And let us not forget Australia, where
million LPA and produces
another learned friend and whisky expert,
broader
grain spirits. Between 2008 and 2016, sales
Chris Middleton,
than non-Scotch
of Irish whiskey doubled
has also now passed 100 distilleries
both malt and (4.4 million cases to
informs me: "Australia too, some
Scotch, especially Scotch malt, offers a far range of ages, flavours and styles
legal definition,
and, because of the rigorous provides a more consistent
exploredrinks.com 89
product.
Simple in essence, it is also the most
complex spirit known to man, organoleptically. The provenance
and romantic
Scotch whisky are appealing:
history of Scotland -
'le pays Sauvage', 'the land of mist and mountains,
clans and castles' - is intriguing.
It is also perfect for the long maturation
of
whisky. Scotch whisky has cachet and a story to tell. A fellow whisky writer summed for me: "When you buy a bottle
it up
of Scotch,
you buy a hell of a lot more than 'liquor bottle'.
in a
You're buying history, craft, time and
tradition Although
- and the blood of one small nation." often now assisted by technology,
the craft skills developed years and generations process, maturation
over very many
concerning and blending
the are vital
to creating flavour, while the scientific bases of flavour continue to be investigated
- and,
happily, continue to be elusive. The industry is continually attractive
exploring
ways to develop
flavours while respecting
tight legal definition
the very
of 'Scotch', such as yeast
and barley varieties, longer fermentation, operation
and wood finishing.
90 exploredrinks.com
stills
Somewhat arrogantly
Brazil currently stand fourth and fifth in the
- but with justification
- the Scotch whisky industry's view is that
league of 'best-sellers
'all roads lead to Scotch'. They embrace
by volume'.
and support knowledge
non-Scotch
distillers,
The sheer geographical
that once consumers acquire and hopefully
Scotch
in the
to settle there
spread of the
markets for Scotch offers a degree of
a taste for whisky, they are sure to explore Scotch whisky-
of blended
I
SO, AS WE PEER INTO OUR CRYSTAL BALLS.
protection
if one market fails - the eggs are
distributed
in many baskets. Here are some
examples of by value export figures from 2017: USA +7.7 per cent,
South Africa
+20.7
per cent, France +2.1 per cent, Germany + 13.5 per cent, Spain +5.2 per cent ..
Will demand continue to grow to meet supply? Or are we filling a lake of whisky, surplus to requirements,
as happened
in the
The global whisky market is driven by the
early 1980s? And if we are creating a surplus
global economy, and individual
in the short term, will this increase its value
local economies.
in years to come? Those companies
which
markets by
In other words, consumers
must have sufficient
disposable
income to
still have stocks of whisky from the previous
afford it. Other factors include duty and other
'whisky loch' - now at 30-40 years old - can sell
fiscal imposts and regulations
them for eye-watering
prohibition
prices ..
fashion, changing Although
export figures have gone up and
down over the past ten years, the overall trend
lifestyles (including
concerns) and competition alcoholic
(not to mention
in certain markets), availability, health
from other
(and now non-alcoholic)
drinks.
is up, with 2017 being a record year for sales. With good reason, the Scotch whisky industry
There will be some casualties among the
has high hopes for China, where Diageo is
recently founded
running a major, education-based,
it better to hazard over-production
promotion
generic
of 'whisky'. Exports to Singapore
malt whisky distilleries,
than miss (global) opportunities
were up 29.4 per cent by value in 2017, from
highly-paid
where most whisky is shipped to China.
'yes' and this demonstrates
Exports to Latvia, an entrepot
in the future of Scotch.
for Russia, were
bean-counters
but is
now, rather later? The
and actuaries say great confidence
up 105 per cent by value last year. Mexico and
exploredrinks.com 91
'THE MALT WHISKY CAPITAL OF THE WORLD' "Rome was built on seven hills, Dufftown stands on seven stills."
92 exploredrinks.com
FEATURE
While Dufftown lays claim to be the 'Malt Whisky Capital of the World', distilling was not its original purpose - having once been the home of returning soldiers from the Napoleonic wars way back in the early 19th century. If its castles and historic symbols you're after, there is no shortage in and around Dufftown itself. Indeed, Mary Queen of Scots was a frequent
Mortlach, Dufftown and Glendullan complete
visitor to this region, inhabited by the Stewarts,
the impressive array of distilleries. It really is a
the Doug lasses and the Comyns noble families.
whisky buff's Mecca.
With castles are a plenty, in the town itself resides the Balvenie Castle, keeping a watchful
The town's four principal roads come
eye over the Glenfiddich
together
distillery.
at the central clock tower built in
1839, and originally the site of the local jail. However, when you're in the 'Malt Whisky
Dufftown's first distillery, Mortlach, had a
Capital of the World'
budding
the rich distilling
interest hastily turns to
heritage that Dufftown prides
itself on, and the six remaining distilleries
in
master distiller in a chap called
William Grant, who struck out on his own and built Glenfiddich
in 1886.
the town itself (from an original seven). The rhyme of, 'Rome was built on seven hills,
And why limit your gaze, when within a wee
Dufftown stands on seven stills' captures the
uber fare there are many of whisky's greatest
spirit (excuse the pun) of the town, which
names, tucked in glens around almost every
boasts an incredible
corner. Notably, just down the road is The
output of over 40 million
litres of whisky per year. That's over 20,000
Macallan's new stunning distillery, a 130 million
litres of whisky per person, with a population
pound investment and a truly breath-taking
of just over 2,000 people.
visitor experience.
Dufftown is 80 kilometres up the road from
Also highly recommended
Aberdeen
centres at The Glenlivet, Cardhu, Aberlour, Glen
(head north-west on the A96 sign
to visit are the visitors
posted to Huntly and Keith), nestled amid the
Grant, Longmorn and BenRiach - and the list
Speyside region and close to the rivers Fiddich
goes on and on. The regional map is an all-star
and Dul Ian, from which two of its distilling
cast of single malts, perhaps only rivalled by the
residents derive their names.
Islay peated malt brigade on the west coast.
The six distilleries in Dufftown are evenly split
Dufftown is also the home of the 'Spirit of
between William Grant & Sons and Diageo.
Speyside Whisky Festival', to be held next
The Balvenie, Glenfiddich
and Kininvie
represent from the WG&S portfolio,
while
between the 2nd and 6th of May, 2019. Timing your visit brings more of the good spirit to you.
exploredrinks.com 93
..6.
....
Aberlour
A
Allt-a-Bhainne
.4.
.
Ardmore
A, The Glen rot hes
4.
Auchroisk
.
Glen Spey
A.
Aultmore
•
Glentauchers
A
Ballindalloch
-A
A
Balmenach
A, Kininvie
Glenlossie Glen Moray
The Balvenie
..4,. Knockando
A
senRiach
,&.
.
Benromach
.
Braeval
A
cardhu
A.
Miltonduff
A
cragganmore
A
Mortlach
A.
speyburn
A
speyside
• □ailuaine • □allasDhu ,AGlenallachie A
Glenburgie
.
Glendullan
A.
Glen Elgin
A.
Glenfarclas
.
•
Strathmill
~
Tamdhu
A.
Tamnavulin
A,
Tomintoul
.
Tormore
A
soortmalt
,&.The Glenlivet
~~
'
I
NAIRN
I
\
I I I I I
I
V
KNOCKANDO (
(
•
BALLINDALLOCH
)
Maltings
.A.
4 Glen Keith
~~ ~~
J;,.. Strathisla
.,J;. Glen Grant ..
'
The Speyside Cooperage
Glenfiddich
,&.Glenglassaugh
ELGIN
\
.&.
,A.Dalmunach
• □ufftown
FINDHORN
Linkwood
,&.Long morn ~ The Macallan ,&.Mannochmore
.i,..Craigellachie
BURGHEA ~
LOSSIEMOUTH
1nchgower
A.
A . ....._ Benrinnes
/
Burghead Maltings
GRANTOWN ONSPEY"""
· ~
GLENLIVET
A ......
crisp Malting Group
.&,Roseisle Distillery and Maltings
\
TOMINTOUL
I
SPIRIT OF SPEYSIDE
DISTILLED
94 exploredrinks.com
CULLEN
I
PORTSOY
\ MEET THE LOCALS
FOCHABERS
I
"There are a few reasons why
CHARLIE METCALFE - BRAND
Dufftown is an amazing place
AMBASSADOR, THE BALVENIE
for malt whisky production.
One
of the main reasons is the huge
-"'"•=-- --
------'
- ~) ~~ --~,
"\,~
I
I
//HUNTLY
•
conditions for barley growing and
transition into the industry was
the cool weather conditions
a natural progression. Charlie
north of Scotland, this makes for
takes great pleasure in talking
lovely maturation conditions for
about whisky and its production
single malt whisky."
nothing more than sharing good
"If you are visiting the area and
drams with whisky lovers. He also
want a wee break from distilleries,
revels in guiding the 'uninitiated'
hill walking to take in Scotland's
into the malt whisky world.
natural beauty is a mustl
"For your trip to Speyside the
\
in Adelaide, South Australia.
within Dufftown itself. I think a
I I
"I loved my time in Oz. I travelled
I I \
across the country for a year, after
week in the area would be great,
'' '' '--..k ---
which it was time to come home to Bonnie Scotland."
----, __ ,
ADVICE FOR VISITING AUSTRALIANS?
though longer if you can."
VISIT CHARLIE AT THE BALVENIE "At The Balvenie we still have the five rare crafts of whisky making; from growing barley on our Balvenie farm and still
"When walking around the centre Band minor roads
I"
place to base yourself would be
Town/Village A roads
in the
time playing and coaching cricket
.......
Distillery/Malting Ina visitor centre!
Matched with the good farming
whisky and rich history. The
After leaving school, Charlie spent
I I I I
Distillery [with visitor centre/tours by appointment]
for the region steeped in
#
I
... ...
quantities of good quality spring water that we have in this area.
a love
with fellow enthusiasts, enjoying
I I I I I
I
Charlie grew up in Speyside, where he developed
floor malting at the distillery, to
of Dufftown, it's hard to not get
maintaining
an on site cooperage
• • • • • • ■
ScotRail line [Aberdeen-Elgin-Inverness)
captured by the surrounding
for all cask repairs and our own
• • • • • • ■
ScotRail line [lnverness-Aviemore-Perthl
distilleries. While Rome was built
coppersmith.
• • • • • • ■
Keith & Dufftown Railway Association
on seven hills, Dufftown was built
David C Stewart MBE with 55 years
on seven stills. The best way to
of experience in the industry."
IKeith-Drummuir-Dufflown)
Stagecoach 36 IForres-Elgin-Rothes-Aberlour-Dufflown)
Finally, we have
hear about the history and stories of the area is to go to a bar and
"Things to look out for this year is our
chat to the locals over a glass of
limited edition celebratory bottling
malt whisky."
of DoubleWood 25-Year-Old."
exploredrinks.com
95
THE SINGLETON DUFFTOWN
Distillery continues to produce one of the
The brand's success has come from a
smoothest,
combination
most approachable
whiskies in
of drawing on 420 years of
Scotland. This is achieved through a slow
collective distilling experience and over 120
Peter MacKenzie founded the Dufftown
distillation
years of Malt Master expertise to produce a
Distillery in 1896, at the height of the Scottish
whiskies in a secret blend of European oak
whisky boom. Unfortunately,
ex-sherry casks and American oak ex-bourbon
his beginner's
process and by maturing the
perfectly balanced single malt.
luck quickly ran out. Three years after joining
casks. Malts Master Craig Wilson, who has
Expertly crafted by some of the best talent in
the spirits business, the Scottish whisky
a PhD in brewing and years of blending
the industry, Master of Malts Maureen Robinson
market collapsed, forcing distillers to focus on
experience, curates the perfect combination
exporting
casks for a smooth, nutty and sweet liquid that
The Singleton has today become the fastest
has won awards across the world.
growing brand in the category.
their whisky. MacKenzie and his sons
quickly turned their efforts to supplying the
of
and Malt Masters Keith Law and Craig Wilson,
then dry American market. Their renown for distilling great quality Scotch whisky allowed
In 2006, The Singleton Dufftown 12-Year-Old
them to thrive throughout
launched, followed by The Singleton Dufftown
America's Prohibition
15-Year-Old in 2007 and The Singleton
era.
Dufftown 18-Year-Old in 2011. The distillery is, of course, named after the famous town, Dufftown. Dufftown sits at the
THE SINGLETON STORY
heart of the Speyside region - the most famous Scotch region in the world. As a credit to the
In 2006, The Singleton of Glen Ord was
location, characterised by rich soil and rivers,
launched in Taiwan (the world's second
Dufftown is home to many famous distilleries.
largest single malt market), where it quickly surpassed the competition
to become one
In the late 19th century, several distilleries were
of the world's most sought after single malt
competing for scarce water sources. Legend has
products. Spurred by this momentum,
it that the stream from an artesian spring called
Singleton set its sights on Europe and America but, as with all good things, exquisitely made
on multiple occasions diverted by rival distillery
whisky takes time. In order to uphold the
managers in the middle of the night to service
tradition
meet growing demands in new markets, the
draws water from that same source.
brand brought the famous Speyside distilleries,
Using the traditional
Singleton family.
namely Dufftown and Glendullan,
DUf TCWN
and
their productions. Today, Dufftown Distillery still
methods, centuries of
n.,ld!u1t.tlcoti:1t7!!uiiy
The
Jock's Well, situated high in the Conval Hills, was
of 'small batch' craftsmanship
ESINGLETQN .
into The
craft and the ancient water source, Dufftown
exploredrinks.com 97
a
4~ (I ..' I.'I~¡1~l11111 i
, ...
I;;;_I
-
Starting work at The Balvenie distillery at the age of just 17, David C. Stewart MBE remains one of the best-loved and most respected craftsmen in the business. David began a 10-year apprenticeship when he started at the distillery, and during this time he mastered the skills of nosing and creating quality single malt Scotch whisky. David was appointed The Balvenie Malt Master in 197 4 and has held that position ever since.
98 exploredrinks.com
MEET
It's been a busy last couple of years for David:
His spirit of experimentation also led him to create
in July 2016 he was awarded an MBE, Member
the ground-breaking IslayCask 17-Year-Oldin
DCS Compendium, a collection of 25 casks
of the Order of the British Empire, by Her
2001, which paved the way for a series of successful
from five different decades of Balvenie history.
Most recently, David has created The Balvenie
Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for services to the
expressions,such as The Balvenie PortWood
Each cask illustrates the distillery's character,
Scotch whisky industry and the following year,
21-Year-Old and The Balvenie Caribbean Cask
and how the characteristics of The Balvenie
in September 2017, he celebrated his 55th year
14-Year-Old.In this way, he has pushed the
develop over time.
with the company.
boundaries of The Balvenie'straditional place in the world of single malt Scotch whisky.
David's dedication to his craft, coupled with his modest, unassuming manner, has made
Over his career, David has developed an award-winning range of single malt whiskies,
David's unrivalled expertise has been displayed
him one of the best-loved and well-respected
which have earned him some of the industry's
in the Single Barrel Range, which includes three
figures in the Scotch whisky industry. He
top accolades. During his time, he's helped
expressions - Single Barrel First Fill 12-Year-
continues to work with the skilled teams of
independent, family-owned William Grant
Old, Single Barrel Sherry Cask 15-Year-Old and
craftsmen at The Balvenie Distillery in Dufftown,
& Sons become Distiller of the Year an
Single Barrel Traditional Oak 25-Year-Old.
Speyside, Scotland.
unprecedented five times at the International Spirits Challenge (ISC), four times at the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC)
~· 25THANNIVERSARY
and, for the first time, at the World Whiskies Awards in 2011.
f DITIO\
_
E T~ 1892
There are just a few Scotch whisky malt
SCOTC][WJJ
masters in the world and as The Balvenie
181(;
Malt Master, David requires specialist skills
YlJulll&dr,r-'
to ensure quality and consistency across
THEBALVENIE'
the range of whiskies. His passion for retaining tradition, as well as championing
ia:d /tl/c:f:_~:f/1/,ill
experimentation, makes The Balvenie a refined and distinguished single malt, that is as well-
COTL.m
loved among newer whisky enthusiasts as it is
D0UBLEWO0D
among seasoned aficionados.
MATURBDIN TWO DISTIN CT CASKS
Well-known in the industry for his desire to
AGED
avoid the limelight, David has been widely
12
YEARS
recognised by his peers. He was awarded the Grand Prix of Gastronomy by the British
Tu1
BALVBNIB
Academy of Gastronomes in 2005, as well as
tute from lr.sma1u.radonin m dijftrfflt ,yp,sof o,k wk.
conferred a lifetime achievement award by the International Wine & Spirit Competition
SHETR1O:\K
(2005). He was named Whisky Magazine's Malt Advocate in 2007, and an Icon of Scotch Whisky in 2009.
Balvenie Malt Master, aside from his MBE,
FuaTHI& ~ ill UfllPdl OUSIUU.T..., .,,,,,.,.,,,,,.
DOUBLEWOOD
--,.J•-•*
brlngingfi,,•lf, resultings1i«,LI IWl
MATUUO 1M TWO DtSTUfCT CA$U
AGE D
Another of David's key achievements as The
Dou•uWooo
,cqu,,.. ill tompln ~ rith .n,1,,...,i,
12
YEARS
C:AIK
""
au:OND
T~ ■ B.unN11 OouiL1Woooatquirudtt. ~ya nnHI/J cute (min iu n:uitvtMloG
rid,•"'
in,.,...,tliffmw, ,ypn of oak eatlL
includes the development of double cask
...... .......... ......................... .............
maturation in the 1980s, unheard of at the time.
, .le.~ ......,, ..... , ........ , .. , .... ..., I ............
These days, this is an established technique
-~-:~ ~t: ::::=::.~::;:;:." ..i 0.\Ut.& 91;,~,.,,..,,.,.~.g},'J/il/,,y ,C,
referred to as 'finishing', and widely enjoyed in The Balvenie DoubleWood 12-Year-Old
T .. , lo1.Lvaw1aM.1LT M,uT••
T111 l ...1.or•.it1'-l,bL'f M~,n• 1
~fllll"-PltH
:li70hl c
~-=~! .~~ :=.:; m~~fO\t
and The Balvenie DoubleWood 12-Year-Old, 14-Year-Old and the 17-Year-Old exploredrinks.com
99
Overlooking the field of Glenfiddich are the remains of a famous old Scottish fortress: Balvenie Castle. Originally constructed in the 12th century, the castle has played host to inhabitants such as Robert the Bruce and Mary Oueen of Scots. The ruins now keep watch over some of the finest distilleries in Speyside, for it was here that William Grant created the distillery that would become Balvenie. Every distillery will proudly trumpet what makes it different, or makes its whiskies superior to others. The Balvenie has the advantage of being able to identify a number of factors that, in combination,
only they offer.
They describe it as the 'Five Rare Crafts' of malt whisky. Others may offer some of these 'Crafts', but no other distillery can claim to offer all five. The barley for their whiskies comes from their own adjoining farm. It provides a means of maintaining throughout
quality
the process. They also add complexity to
the taste by malting their own barley in the traditional method. The Balvenie Distillery has the last active floor maltings to be found in the Scottish Highlands. Their own coppersmiths
maintain the stills, and they still have
their own team of coopers, working on the principle that casks are vital to ensuring every bottle of The Balvenie offers the traditional
honeyed flavours associated with
their whiskies. Having their own team is the best way to guarantee this. Finally, they look to the expertise and experience of their Malt Master, David Stewart. They have come a very long way from a crumbling
castle,
to be recognised as one of the great Speyside malt whisky distilleries.
ADDRESS:Balvenie Maltings, Dufftown, Scotland T: +44 (0) 1340 822 210
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
The Balvenie Distillery
WHEN YOUR 12YEAR OLD
25 The team at The Balvenie has been making their signature DoubleWood 12-Year-Old for a quarter of a century; a landmark that has instigated a yearlong celebration at The Balvenie. In honour of this handcrafted single malt Scotch whisky the Speyside distillery will highlight the pioneering work of Malt Master David C. Stewart MBE, while also paying tribute to the many distillery craftsmen and women who made DoubleWood the expression it is today. The Balvenie DoubleWood
Aged 12 Years traces its origins back to 1982, when David C. Stewart
MBE began experimenting
with double-cask
maturation,
or 'wood finishing', by transferring
Old Balvenie into oloroso sherry casks. Now commonplace
in whisky production,
12-Year-
wood finishing
involves taking mature liquid from one cask and finishing it for a number of months in another - a process that further develops its character, flavour and depth. The success of David's trials led to the release of The Balvenie Classic in 1983. Buoyed by the response this garnered, in 1993 The Balvenie released DoubleWood
Aged 12 Years, a whisky
that begins its journey in traditional
whisky
casks for 12 years, before being transferred into Spanish sherry oak for a further nine months for final maturation. This adds a layer of depth and fullness not to be obtained from other maturation
methods.
DOUBLEWOOD Commenting
MATUUD IN TWO DJSTINCT CASIS
on the anniversary, David
says, "DoubleWood's
creation and
AGE D
12
YEAR S
subsequent success is an achievement T11aBnvaNn Oouau'Wooo _,.,. ..,,.,,..rld,..,/ -
of major personal pride for me. It makes
u,u fromla maJundoftIll,_ tr/ff a( oakClll.
me very happy to know that a technique
"Jm-t
I helped pioneer all those years ago
Yl,;o/A#.:1::.,:
has now become a common practice in the whisky industry. But DoubleWood
DO BLEWOOD IUTl'ltD
wouldn't be the whisky it is today without the hard work and dedication to its development
over the
F\,1m1u _,_11lafll
hn...., ,_.,,....,._ .. ~1L'CUIW
12
Yl:A•S
T11~lun11 1• Oolln'w WoaD~-
~,_
of all the distillery craftsmen who have contributed
IN T• O DUTIWCI' CA.fU
A61ED
SHEi<!) O:\K CllitlHH.a Taab..,_,..;,,,
.... _,J_..,._..6-lno__... --~ ,p .,l ...........
• ~cc~ IM9M.n,oulh&•M-
years. The 25th anniversary celebrations give us all a perfect opportunity
to
come together and raise a dram to this wonderful
liquid."
explored rinks.com 101
Six years ago, Edrington¡¡r~~ealelit~ plans to build a new state ot:th~ 'art::rq~-~~~11 i &1i~ tillerY,ana visitor experience. The structure was designed to not only deliver the ico~1c¡sp e ysiae distil le~ . greater capacity, but to set the standard and vision that will guide the business t~rough the next centurY:of its history. There's a lot to live up to, but the senior team at The Macallan remain confident that the newly unveiled building will be a major part of The Macallan's expansion and enduring legacy. explore WHISKY was lucky enough to get the first ever tour of the new building. .
~
.'
.
.:,
.
The new distillery and visitor experience
underground structure with the rolling hills outside
Designs on this scale do not come cheap,
is located on the beautiful Easter Elchies
of Aberlour. This striking piece of contemporary
however, with Edrington investing $900 million
Estate, just outside Aberlour in the Speyside
design maximises the aesthetic beauty of the
in the brand of which the $250 million distillery
region of the Scottish Highlands. An easy hour
building while minimising the visual impact on the
is the centrepiece. This programme has been
drive north from Aberdeen, the fresh crisp air and
Speyside landscape, which has been classified as
implemented to increase investment in the whisky,
rolling hills signal the rural nature of the Scotch
an 'Area of Great Landscape Value'.
warehousing, and, particularly, in The Macallan's signature sherry-seasoned oak casks.
Whisky industry. The distillery and visitor experience was
The new distillery also signals a large investment
The Easter Elchies Estate has been home to the
designed by acclaimed architect, Rogers Stirk
leading luxury single malt since 1824, and the
Harbour+ Partners, who were selected to lead
in expanding production
main house on the label of every Macallan bottle
the project after an international competition.
tourism experience.
and improving the
sits at the entrance to the new distillery, as a
Elgin-based Robertson Construction has
reminder of the traditions past and expectations
delivered this sophisticated architectural design,
of a proud future.
working with 25 contractors to weave together
last year, and the updated infrastructure will
the vision for the new distillery and visitor
enable The Macallan to increase production by
Shaped like five grassy knolls, the distillery is
experience. During construction, up to 400 people
a third if required. The new stills were crafted by
unique and quite simply stunning. Despite its size,
specialising in more than 20 different trades were
Scottish coppersmiths Forsyths, who have been
at first glance, you could be forgiven for missing
employed on site.
making The Macallan's distinctive 'curiously small'
it, as the design seamlessly integrates the partially
102 explored rinks.com
The first whisky ran through the stills in December
since the 1950s.
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
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VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
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THE NEW DISTILLERY AND VISITOR EXPERIENCE IN NUMBERS • $250m was invested, and 60 new jobs
"As The Macallan has grown globally it has been
remained wholly committed. A key design
very important that we make sure we can sustain
feature is the massive floor to ceiling glass
demand for this wonderful amber liquid," said Ken
wall that separates the bar from the distillery.
Grier, Creative Director at The Macallan. "We've
It offered design and regulatory challenges
taken exceptional care in making sure that the spirit
and tested the business's commitment
to the
are set to be created • During construction,
up to 400 people
specialising in over 20 different trades were employed
on site
• The project has taken three years
that is produced in the new distillery is identical
high standards of the building. The local fire
and six months to complete
to the spirit that we produced in our previous
codes require the glass wall to protect the
(Dec 2014 - May 2018)
distillery. This is the beginning of a really exciting
public bar area for a minimum of 2 hours should
new chapter in the evolution of this wonderful
an accident happen in the distillery. Testing
timber structures in the world,
brand that is The Macallan."
and proving the design was robust required
comprising
a $540,000 mock-up of the glass wall to be
different roof elements, and 380,000
• The roof is one of the most complicated 1,800 single beams, 2,500
Ian Curle, Chief Executive of Edrington, echoes
installed and effectively burned down. Alongside
individual components,
this excitement. "The unsurpassed quality of The
this, the undulating timber roof structure proved
which are equal or the same
almost none of
• The new distillery will allow production
Macallan is in high demand, and we face the future
one of the most complicated timber roofs to
confidently with this new distillery," he said. "It's an
assemble in the world, comprising of 380,000
of The Macall an to increase by
authentic, abiding, ambitious investment that will
individual components.
approximately
a third
match consumer expectations for generations to
ADDRESS: Macallan Distillery, Easter Elchies,
come. When the doors open on the 2nd of June,
"The Macallan estate truly is a special place; a
we expect this new Macallan enterprise to deliver
place we have come to love and respect hugely,"
Charlestown of Aberlour,
significant benefits for the tourism industry, Scotch
said Graham Stirk, Senior Partner and Lead
T:+441340871471
whisky exports, and the economy." Indeed, it is
Architect for Rogers Stirk Harbour+
W: www.themacallan.com
expected that visitor numbers will double in the
"The vision was always ambitious, but this
first year and continue to rise after that.
enabled us to challenge our own thinking to
Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-6pm
create something so dramatic and awe-inspiring.
Sunday: 12pm-6pm
While there were times when amendments
It has been an honour to play our part in shaping
TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING:
needed to be made to the project the business
the next chapter for The Macallan."
The Macallan 6 Pillars Tour £15.00
104 explored rinks.com
Partners.
Scotland
OPENING HOURS:
As Master Blender for over 23 years, Colin knows the characteristics of each and every whisky in Chivas' extensive aged inventory. A supreme craftsman with a lifelong passion for exceptional knowledge
whisky, he draws on his own
and inspiration from the Master
Blenders before him. He is the guardian of the renowned Chivas Regal signature style, and has recently created compelling the Chivas family-
new members of
Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old in
1997 and the luxurious Chivas Regal 25-YearOld in 2007. In recognition of Colin's contribution to the Scotch
MASTER BLENDER,
CHIVAS REGAL
whisky industry, he was appointed a Master of the Ouaich in 2008, having previously been inducted as a Keeper of the Ouaich - Scotland's most prestigious whisky society - in 1998. Colin also travels the world as a Global Ambassador of knowledge understanding
Colin Scott developed an early passion for Scotch whisky, growing up near Orkney distillery. Just as his Grandfather and Father dedicated their lives to the Scotch whisky industry, Colin followed this tradition and joined Chivas in 1973. Here he learned the art of blending under the previous Master Blender Jimmy Lang, and was appointed Master Blender in 1989 on Jimmy's retirement.
for Chivas, sharing his wealth and spreading a unique and appreciation
through his
exuberant passion for both Scotland, Scotch whisky and Chivas. Colin puts Chivas' international
success down
to its high quality and sublime consistency, stating, "Whisky drinkers all over the world really appreciate the supreme smoothness and generous richness of flavours that make Chivas a truly global icon today".
explored rinks.com 105
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
Located in the Speyside region of the Highlands, Strathisla is one of Scotland's most stunning and remote whisky distilleries. You will find the 'Heart of Chivas' surrounded by breathtaking mountain ranges, waterfalls and the raging River Isla, which feeds from the nearby North Sea. Originally established in 1786, Strathisla is the oldest working distillery in the Highlands, having survived both a fire and an explosion in the malt mill during the 1870s to become the success it is today. Chivas Regal offer a number of different tour experiences at the distillery, from a traditional tour through to an intimate cellar tasting . .._ _On the ,Traditional Tour, guests are introduced
exclusively selected from the Chivas Brothers'
to the whisky making process, from distillation
Portfolio, along with a trip around the distillery
through to finished product, while visiting the
with one of Strathisla's most experienced guides.
production areas. They are shown the racks
Lastly, the Chivas Cellar Tasting offers those
of whisky casks left to age in the traditional
passionate about the golden liquid the chance to
dunnage warehouse, and are encouraged to join
taste drams drawn straight from the casks in the
a tutored tasting of four whiskies. The Chivas
Chivas Regal cellar, led by an experienced guide.
Regal Blending Experience sees guests taste
All drams are served at natural cask strength, and
a few of Chivas' special drams and create their
include expressions such as a bourbon barrel
own bespoke blend to take home. For the self-
aged Chivas Regal 12-Year-Old, a hogshead aged
professed whisky connoisseurs, the Straight from
Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old and a sherry butt aged
the Cask Tour offers an afternoon of sampling
Chivas Regal 25-Year-Old.
six limited-edition cask strength single malts,
explored rinks.com 107
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For those that don't have space in the itinerary to stop for a full tour, Chivas Regal invite you
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to stop by for a 'Fly Dram' with Strathisla's knowledgable bartenders. Inspired by the north east Scottish tradition of 'Fly Cup', or a quick tea served between meals, the 'Fly Dram' is a 10 minute experience where guests are shown three drams, the Strathclyde Single Grain, the Strathisla 12-Year-Old Single Malt and the Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old, and are talked through the shared histories between single malt and the Chivas blends. The tasting also includes a small sweet treat, used to showcase the intricacies of blending flavours.
ADDRESS: Strathisla Distillery, Seafield Avenue, Keith AB55 SBS, UK
T:+44 1542 783044 W: www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com/strathisla OPENING HOURS: Monday-Sunday: 9:30am-6pm from late spring until 9th November 2018
TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Traditional Distillery Tour: £15pp, 1hr 30 mins, over 18's only, online booking. Max 14 people.
Chivas Regal Blending Experience: £60pp, 2hrs 15mins, over 18's only, online booking. Max 14 people.
Straight from the Cask Connoisseur Tour: £50pp, 2hrs 15mins, over 18's only. Max 12 people.
Chivas Cellar Tasting: £40pp, 45mins, over 18's only, online booking. Max 8 people.
A 'Fly Dram': £10pp, 10mins, over 18's only, online booking.
explored rinks.com 109
Alan Winchester is proof that hard-work and a humble attitude can see an individual achieve great things. Although he has been in the whisky trade J9 r.,. ... over 40 years, he has had to climb the ranks during ,that time, startin g out •a·s ; a tour guide for a summer job before working as a mashman, ~ bre w~ , a•still , f man and, finally, taking out the top job - master distiller .' . • ~
110 exp lo red rinks.com
.
Old single malt Scotch releases. Released over a number of years, each vintage in the collection is bottled at the peak of maturation under Alan's watchful eye. Very few whiskies are able to reach 50 years in cask and still be drinkable, alongside the fact 60- 80 per cent of the spirit is usually lost to the angel's share by this stage. This makes the whiskies in 'The Glenlivet Winchester Collection' incredibly unique, with each bottle sold at $25,000USD. Starting from the ground levels of production
It is this ingenuity that makes Alan well-respected
In his spare time, Alan is a great walker, often
and working his way up to being appointed The
amongst his peers in the industry, and he is
found roaming the Highland hills. Uniting his loves
Glenlivet Master Distiller in 2009, Alan has unique
regularly asked to speak on his experience and
of history and rambling, he created The Glenlivet
insight into the importance of the production
extensive knowledge of the category. He is the
Smugglers Trail in 2007. The trail invites visitors to
process at all stages. It was an old school teacher
past President of the Malt Distillers Association,
The Glenlivet distillery to walk in the footsteps of
that inspired him to, 'get a job that he would
past Chairman of the Institute of Brewing and
the whisky smugglers who transported their illicit
enjoy' and he's followed this advice to turn his
Distilling, Scotland and a fellow of the Institute
golden liquid out of the Livet valley in the 18th and
passions for whisky and history into a career.
since 2011. He was bestowed with the title of
early 19th century. During The Spirit of Speyside
Keeper of the Ouaich in 2004, before becoming
Festival each summer, you can often find Alan out
a Master in 2015, and he won Whisky Magazine's
on the trail educating guests about the distillery's
of The Glenlivet distillery, which are close to 200
Icons of Whisky Scotland Master Distiller of the
rich history and characters.
years old, but he is also ardent about constant
Year 2017.
Alan is dedicated to using the traditional methods
He has admitted before his favourite drink is a
innovation via new expressions and styles. During One of the greatest recognitions of Alan's career
small dram ofThe Glenlivet 18-Year-Old with a
the Nadurra, and a no-age-statement expression,
has been the attribution of his name to 'The
splash of water, but he would never pass up a
Founder's Reserve, to open up the brand to a
Glenlivet Winchester Collection' -the brand's
tipple from The Winchester Collection - as long
wider range of whisky enthusiasts.
series of extremely rare and highly valued SO-Year-
as someone else is footing the billl
his career, he has introduced peated styles, such as
exploredrinks.com 111
Founder George Smith established the first licensed distillery 1nthe r2ansh of Glenl1vet in an area notorious
foesmugglers and thieves
:You can read about how George successfully
.. .
and the Drams of D1st1nct1onifasting On tfie
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defended his l1qu1dgold from these outlaws at ifhe Glenl1vet Exh1b1t1on1ns1dethe distillery, wh1di
Aftei a tour of the traditional dunnage warel-iouse
tells of the history of the whisky from its Sr:ieyside
where the casks are left to slowly mature, v1s1tors
beginnings to being enJoyed across the glol:ie Interested visito scan actually walk in the sl-ioes
Sr:i1ntoffers both an immersive tour and tl-ie Grab a ma
at the v1s1torcentre and trace tl-ie
Of?f20rtun1tyto taste the new make sp1nt and a
of the wood into the spirit creates Glenlivet's 'def init ive whisky' . Lastly, for the serio us whisky enthusiast, The G len livet offers t he Drams of Distinction Tasting. The hour-long tasting allows guests to sample a selection of rare whiskies paired with tasty b it es. This tasting does not include a tou r of the distille ry itself. Become a Gua rd ian of Th e Glen livet for free before travelling to t he distillery and you will also be invited to experience the hidden Library, an exclusive wh isky lounge w here you're encouraged to take a seat by the fire w it h your favour ite dram in hand.
ADDRESS: Ballindalloch, Banffshite, AB37 9DB
T: +44 (0) 1340 82120 W: www.ma ltw hiskydistilleri es.com/t heg len livet OPENING HOURS: Monday-Sunday: 9:30am-6pm (March -November)
TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING : The Glenlivet Classic Tour: £1Opp, 1hr 15mins. Max 12 people. Daily tours from 1Oam, every half hour with the last tour at 4:30p m .
The Definitive Spirit: £65, 2hr 30mins. Max 10 people. Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 2:00pm (subject to availability).
Drams of Distinction Tasting: £40, 1hr Tuesday and Thursday 11:OOam and 3:00pm, Saturday 11:OOam(subject to availability).
114 exp lo redrinks.com
W.ISIT- DISTILLERY FOCUS
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exploredrink s.co m 115
Through the woods, at the end of a short, scenic path in the idyllic Speyside town of Rothes you'll find the Glen Grant distillery.
Founded by the Grant brothers in 1840, the distillery is
The inexpensive admission fee includes both a
nowadays one of the leading producers of single malt
guided tour of the distillery and entry into the
in the world, with an annual capacity of close to 6.2
famous Victorian Gardens. When James Grant
million litres of pure alcohol.
established the distillery alongside his brother, he wanted to highlight the natural beauty of the area
Former illegal distillers and smugglers, the brothers
by building a stunning Victorian style garden in
were strategic in their choice of site for the distillery,
the grounds. Since fully restored, guests can now
choosing a spot that is close to the goods port of
stroll along the winding path through the garden,
Garmouth, the pristine waters of the River Spey and
past blooming
bountiful fields of barley. Glen Grant is proud of this
flowing waterfall and see the heather thatched
flowerbeds,
verdant lawns and a
heritage; evident as it is the only Scotch whisky whose
dram pavilion or the little cave where Major Grant,
distillery is still named after its original owners. It is
James' son and successor, kept his own private
unique in another way also, as it is the only distillery in
Glen Grant barrel.
Speyside where every drop is bottled on-site.
ADDRESS: Elgin Road, Rothes, Today, the distillery attracts around 16,000 visitors each
Banffshire AB38 ?BS
year and offers both guided tours and private tastings
T:+44 (0) 1340 832118
with the distillery staff. Guests can savour a dram in
W: www.glengrant.com/gb/en/distillery/visitor-centre
the refurbished, modern coachman's cottage, or enjoy
OPENING HOURS:
a coffee and a homemade cake at the Coffee Shop,
Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-5pm (April-October)
open April to October.
9:30am-4:30pm (November-March)
116 exploredrinks.com
VISIT- DISTILLERY FOCUS
Located in the heart of Speyside, in the north-east region of Morayshire, BenRiach displays all the traditional charm of a Speyside distillery. Built by John Duff in 1898, BenRiach draws its water from the Burnside springs located underground, deep below the distillery. the floor maltings at BenRiach, and it was
the particular
malt whisky back in 1898, the distillery was a
this alone that kept the distillery alive during
who craft the whisky, the ingredients
victim of unfortunate
those 'mothballed'
distinctive
Although
operational
BenRiach started producing timing.
BenRiach was
for just two years before the
years. Then, in 1965, the
Scotch whisky industry entered a golden era,
'Pattison Crash', in 1900, which resulted in a
and suddenly
period of hardship for the entire whisky
commissioned
industry and the closure of many distilleries.
re-opened,
new distilleries
BenRiach. Production
casks selected for maturation. a visit to BenRiach, the
you can book in for a personalised tour in one
So, after just a couple of years of distillation,
re-commenced
2004, and the beginning
remained so for 65 long years. Under normal
period in BenRiach's history. It was in April of
circumstances,
that year that BenRiach became independent,
Book and contact via website
having been purchased by The BenRiach
W: www.benriachdistillery.com
this would have spelled the would
Fast-forward to
If you are considering
distillery is not generally open to the public but
the stills at BenRiach fell silent, and
end for the distillery, as the buildings
immediately.
used, the
copper stills and the high quality
were being
and dormant distilleries
including
methods and skills of the men
of the most exciting
of just four slots each week.
Distillery Company Limited. This independent
OPENING HOURS:
to BenRiach lay its sister distillery Long morn,
ownership
You can visit (if you've pre-booked) on a Tuesday
which had enjoyed sporadic periods of
with several interesting
production
it continues to produce whisky from both
TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING:
peated and non-peated
The 'Connoisseur's Tour' lasts around 1hr 30mins
surely have been demolished.
However, next
during BenRiach's lengthy hiatus.
The whisky makers at Longmorn
continued
to source some of their malted barley from
allows the distillery to experiment wood finishes, and malted barley. The
BenRiach portrays its own uniqueness through
or a Thursday at either 10am or 2pm.
and the cost is approximately
$55
exploredrinks.com
117
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
The breathtakingly scenic Ben Rinnes Mountain and the pure spring water of the River Spey that flows over its pink granite have long been shrouded in tales of Scottish folklore. Since ancient times this water has been believed to possess magical qualities, and its incredible softness makes it ideal for whisky making.
It is for this reason that James Fleming
the Past Tasting may be the experience for you.
established his quaint distillery in the little village
The one-hour tasting takes place in the luxurious
of Aberlour in 1879, in the heart of Speyside
Fleming Room and includes some of Aberlour's
where the Lour Burn meets the River Spey.
rare special drams. For those looking to fully
Although small, the distillery offers a number
the Chronicles of the Cask will take you on a
of specialist tours and tastings. The Aberlour
journey through the senses to experience how
immerse themselves in the world of Aberlour,
Experience Tour combines a tour of the distillery
each impact the tasting of whisky. A visit to the
with a tasting of six samples. On the tour,
still house precedes an opportunity
guests will learn about the history of Aberlour
special casks housed in Warehouse 1. Back in the
to nose
and the whisky making process, as well as have
Fleming Room, guests have a guided tasting of
the opportunity
three exclusive Aberlours, only available to try at
to purchase distillery exclusive
whiskies. If whisky is your specialty, the Cask from
this tasting.
exploredrinks.com
119
ADDRESS: Aberlour, Banffshire,
AB38 9PJ, UK
T: +44 (0) 1340 88 1249 W: www.ma ltwhiskydistilleries. com/ab ; rJoui-
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OPENING HOURS:
Mo nday-Sunday: 9:30am-5pm (12 Mar ch-9 No vember) Mo nda y-Frida y: 10am-4pm r(10•
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TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Aberlour Experience Tour:
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£1Spp, 1hr 30m ins-2hrs. Max 16 people. To urs at 10:00am and 2:00pm daily. •
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Pre-bo o king strongly recommended
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Casks from the Past:
£35pp, 1~r Max 10 peop le. Mo nda y, Tuesda y and Frid~f 11:30am . .. Advan ced b oo king essential. Chronicles of the Cask:
£45pp, 1hr 30m ins. Max 8 people. Wednesday
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MASTER BLENDER FOR DEWAR'S With a degree in food science and a background in sensory analysis, Stephanie Macleod applies deep passion and know-how to crafting John Dewar's & Sons much-loved blends and single malts
122 exploredrinks.com
MEET
Her love of whisky wasn't always so fervent,
methods when nosing and tasting the whisky.
regarding this issue. Most recently, she spoke
with her admitting
This requires the use of controlled
at the first Women of the Vine & Spirits
to once possessing a clear
conditions
preference for other drinks in her early 20s. It
to evaluate a blend and utilising statistical
International
wasn't until she studied whisky as a research
techniques to ensure partiality towards a
year awarded Whisky Magazine's Icons of
assistant in sensory analysis for her alma
particular blend is valid.
Whisky Master Blender of the Year.
Summit in London and was this
mater, the University of Strathclyde, that she developed investigating
a real appreciation
for the spirit. In
the influence of the maturation
The first blend she ever created was Dewar's
When home alone, with a dram in hand, she's
15-Year-Old, and she has continued
versatile on how she takes her whisky. For
in the
spirit of innovation through experimentation
Dewar's White Label and Dewar's 12-Year-Old,
with the diverse range of whiskies three simple
ever since. In 2014, she was instrumental
she likes to mix together
elements - water, malt or grain and wood casks
the expansion of Dewar's by launching the
of lime and ice; with Dewar's 25, she prefers to
- can produce.
'Last Great Malts' series - the never-before-
take it neat or sometimes with a block of ice;
released highlights of the single malt portfolio.
and with the malts, she thinks they're best neat
In 1998, she joined Dewar's in the spirit qaulity
Subsequently, she became Dewar's Malt Master
or with a splash of water.
Laboratories in Glasgow's head office, a division
in addition to Master Blender, as she oversees
she eventually came to run before becoming
every step of the production
Blender Designate in 2003 under the tutelage
of the single malts from the five malt distilleries
hours from the Aberfeldy
of then Master Blender, Tom Aiken.
-Aberfeldy,
twin girls, Emma and Rachel, and her husband,
process on a whisky, she became fascinated
Aultmore,
in
process for each
Craigellachie,
The
Deveron and Royal Brackla. Since assuming the role of Dewar's seventh
ginger ale, a wedge
Born in Glasgow, Stephanie now lives two distillery with her
Niall. In her spare time, she is a tennis and running enthusiast.
Master Blender in 2006, Stephanie has drawn
Stephanie is an advocate for women entering
on her science knowledge to apply sensory
the spirits industry and a regular speaker
exploredrinks.com 123
Set between rolling lush green hills and beside the waterfall of the beautiful Pitilie Burn, Aberfeldy Distillery was first planned by the sons of John Dewar in 1896. In a way it was a homecoming for the men, as their highly successful father, founder of Dewar's whisky John Dewar, was born just three miles away.
At the time the distillery was created, the Dewar's
warehouse; a Connoisseur Tour that affords visitors
brand was already a household name and the company
with an additional
was in desperate need of greater reserves of single
(15ml each); and a da_ily Blender's Tour, where guests
malt whisky to use in its blend. The brothers enlisted
create their own blend of Experimental
the help of the leading distillery architect of the time,
using cask strength single malt and grain whisky.
tasting mat of five Scotch whiskies Batch Scotch
Charles Doig, and the signature pagoda roof he installed is still one of the most prominent
architectural
features of the distillery today.
If you're looking for a truly unique experience, Dewar's also h~st a luxury Immersion Whisky Tour once
-r
a month. ,The full-day event begins with a welcome The distillery
offers a range of tours, including
Dewar's renowned
Whisky & Chocolate
Taking place once a day, the experience tour of the distillery
includes a
and a visit to the warehouse
learn about Dewar's double-aging
technique,
finishing with a whisky and chocolate Aberfeldy
coff e'eAe a and shortbread
experience. to
before
tray tasting of
12-Year-Old Single Malt, Dewar's 12-Year-
Old Blended
Scotch and the ultra-premium
Dewar's
18-Year-Old perfectly
paired with artisan single
origin dark chocolate
disks. The chocolate
made by a local chocolatier,
before visitors are escorted
on a tour of the Dewar's archive. Guests are then treated to a visit to the distillery's water source, the Pitilie Burn, followed by a full distillery tour including tasting a single cask Aberfeldy
whisky straight from
th~ cask , A freshly made buffet lunch is provided
• ~ e Iegant
w 11Is ·· kx Lounge, 10
iJi e Blen a ing Roo
in the .. . on to wit. h vIsItors t hen moving
for a guided tasting of old and rare
disks are
and each whisky and
chocolate
match was chosen by Master Blender
Stephanie
Macleod. Every tour i ncludes access to the interactive heritage
There is also a standard Distillery Tour; a Cask Tasting
exhibition,
Tour, where guests are invited to sample a rare and
Dewar's founders, John Dewar and his sons, John and
exclusively aged Aberfeldy single cask whisky in the
Tommy Dewar.
124 exploredrinks.com
where visitors gain insight into the lives of
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
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ADDRESS : Aberfeldy, Perth shire PH15 2EB, UK
T: +44 (0)1887 822010 W: www.de wars.c om/g l/en/aberfe ldydist ille ry
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OPENING HOURS :
Mo nday-Saturday:
10am-6pm (Closes 4pm November-Mar d i)__.
Sundays (April-Oct obe r): 12pm -4pm TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING : Aberfeldy
Distillery Tour: £10.S0pp, 1hr 30mins.
Cask Tasting Tour: £17pp, 1hr 45min s. Whisky & Chocolate Tasting Tour : £23pp, 2 hrs. Connoisseur Tour: £27pp, 2hrs.
i·, £99pp, 2h rs 30m ins B k. _rm,, e ve ry weekaay. . oo 1ngs e ss ent ia l. ·
Blender's Tour·. Take's pl ace on Iy at 3
, ,.
Dewar's Immersion Luxury Wh isky Tour: Starts at 10am ana
finishes at 3:30pm each month. £120t p. Max 10 people.
expl o red rinks.com 125
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The Long morn Distillery was founded
of 8 tuns, each stainless steel. The whisky is
back in 1893, and is still producing malts
matured in three types of casks: ex-Bourbon,
from the Speyside region. Today, it is part of
new American oak and ex-oloroso sherry
the Pernod Ricard Group. The distillery is located,
casks from Jerez in Spain. Barley comes from
not surprisingly, in the town of Long morn, which
the Moray region and peat from the nearby
is in the district of Moray, very close to the town's
Mannoch Hill. The distillery moved from direct
other distilleries. Longmorn was founded by John
coal firing of the stills to steam during the 1993
Duff in' 1873 ana is-one of the only distilleires to
modernisation.
avoid a lengthy period of inactivity.
on the property, and can be called into service
Duff had a long history with distilling before
which used to power the stills.
The old steam engine is still
if needed. There is even the old waterwheel, opening Longmorn and even played host to the Japanese Grandfather
of whisky, Masataka
The whiskies produced
here have proved
Taketsuru, who came to Scotland to learn to
extremely popular as blending components
distill. Duff foresight saw him construct railroads
and Longmorn malts, with their pronounced
direct to the distillery that allowed him to bring
aromatics, balance and sweet notes, well known
in the finest barley from all over the UK and to
for their significant contribution
use the same railraods to export his whisky to
Regal. Their 15-Year-Old was replaced by the
the rest of the world.
even more admired 16-Year-old, in 2007, and
to Chivas
a 23-Year-Old in 2017 This is a distillery which Longmorn sources its water from local springs,
attracts the attention of independent
the Burnside wells. It operates four wash
of single malts for good reason, knwon as every
stills and four spirit stills, providing
distillers' second favourite malt.
an annual
bottlers
capacity of 4.5 million litres per annum, up
_
from 3.5 million after the 2012 renovations. The
Longmorn Distillery does not have a visitors'
mash tun, also installed in 2012, has a capacity
centre and is not open to the public.
..-~
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exploredrinks.com 127
Jura, an island which is part of the Inner Hebrides archipelago off western Scotland, is not the most hospitable place on the planet. It is mostly barren, severely mountainous, sparsely populated (196, according to the latest census, though there are more than 5,000 deer) and mostly covered in what is known as blanket bog (a form of peatland where the wet climate allows peat to develop extensively). The local village of Craig house has a single pub, one church and the one distillery, Jura. And a single road. Its closest neighbour is the more famous Islay. Jura is 30,000 hectares of raw scenery, although nearly 10,000 of that is only exposed at low tide. George Orwell described Jura as "extremely unget-at-able" in 1946. The Island's first distillery was built in 1810 by the Campbell family, very close to the site of the current one (the same grounds), but, after being rebuilt in the 1880's, closed in 1901 and went to ruin. A new distillery, designed by the famous William Del me-Evans who was responsible
for a number of distilleries, was
constructed
in the 1950's and opened
in 1963,
The current owners are Whyte and Mackay Ltd.
This is a heavily peated
malt. It was named
'Prophecy' as in the early 1700's, the Campbell Water for the distillery comes from the nearby
family evicted a man from their property. As he
mountains, the Paps of Jura, which filters its way
trudged away, he yelled a curse at the family,
on Jura. It had the stated aim
down to the Market Loch. The stills are some of the
claiming that the last Campbell to leave the
of, despite the peat bogs and the proximity to
tallest to be found at any island distillery, the theory
island would be one-eyed and would have all
Islay, making a Highland-type
being that the taller the still, the purer the spirit.
his belongings
at which time, it employed male population
a quarter of the
malt. They were
in a cart, drawn by a single white
horse. In 1938, Charles Campbell, who'd lost an
keen to avoid the peaty notes common at the time. There have been some experimental
The original bottling for the new distillery was
eye in the earlier War and subsequently
bottlings of a much more peaty style from the
'Origin', a ten-year-old non-peated malt which was
on hard times, packed up his belongings
late 1990's, and these have been well received.
well known for its heather and honey character.
took them to the pier in a cart, pulled by his
There have also been Jura malts offered by
There are a number of other bottlings, but the
white horse.
independent
most fascinating might be the 'Prophecy'.
bottlers.
128 exploredrinks.com
fallen and
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
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Any whisky appreciated by Luke Skywalker,
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Samuel L Jackson and a Kingsman must be a bit special. Fans of popular culture will recognise the references to the first Kingsman film, when an
\>;
attempted rescue by a Kingsman of the kidnapped
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professor, played by Hamill, goes wrong as Jackson
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and his henchwoman turn up. Everyone takes time to sip on a 1962 Dal more and, really, why wouldn't
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varying sizes with one twice the size of the others)
you? After all, the last time a bottle was sold was
and a capacity of 4,200,000 litres.'Water comes
2011, when it fetched a mere £125,000.
from the River Alness. Maturation taKes place in
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American white oak bourbon casKsana also aged The Dalmore Distillery, located atAlness, 30
sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass, nano-selected
kilometers north of Inverness, was constructed
by Master Distiller Richard Paterson. It is believed
back in 1839 by Alexander Matheson, and
that these sherry casks give tne whiskies their
immediately leased to the Sutherland family. Then
characteristic nutty, spicy, citrus ana ginger notes, 't' while the bourbon casks provide more vanilla,
from 1869, the Mackenzie brothers took up the lease-the
iconic 12-point stag crest of the family
honey and tropical fruit touches. 'The Mackenzie',
has been retained and is seen on every bottle of
one of their many prestige releases, sees time in
Dal more. The crest dates back to the 13th century
aged port pipes from Oporto.
when Colin, chief of the Mackenzie clan, saved King Alexander Ill of Scotland from a charging stag
Consider some of these releases and it
and was granted the right to the crest.
becomes obvious why they are so highly
The distillery was a success, though it hit some
'Trinitas' is a 64 -Year-Old single malt, blended
problems when, in 1917, the Royal Navy started
from some of the world's rarest whiskies from
desired and achieve such impressive prices. The.
using the next door firth for producing deep-
1868, 1878, 1926 and 1939. Only three bottles
sea mines. An incident in 1920, incident being a
were made, with each selling for between
euphemism for 'massive explosion and subsequent
£100,000 and £120,000. 'Eos' was a blend of
fire', destroyed most of the distillery. Lawyers
two sherry casks from 1951, as was the 'Selene'.
·
became involved, and the matter even went to the
'Sirius' is also from the 1951 vintage, but only
House of Lords. Production recommenced in 1922.
twelve decanters were made. The 'Oculus' is
In 1960, the Mackenzie family finally sold to one of
even rarer. A blend of malts from 1868, 1878,
ADDRESS:Dal ore Alness, Highlands and Islands,
their main customers, Whyte & Mackay.
1922, 1926, 1939 and 1951, only one single
Alness IV17 OUT,Scotland
bottle, as a Baccarat crystal decanter, was
T:+44 1349 882362
,.
Dal more produced a single, single malt for
produced. There are plenty more prestige
)' W: www.thedalmore.com
many years, their 12-Year-Old, but more recently,
whiskies in their portfolio.
OPENING HOURS:
the range has expanded to include 15, 18 and
\
Individual appointments
25-Year-Old malts, several no-age whiskies and
Dal more has more than earnt is reputation as one
Bookonline
some stunning prestige releases. These are highly
of the very great Scottish distilleries.
TOUR DETAILSAND PRICING:£8.00
exploredrinks.com 129
Muirhead's Scotch Whisky was first produced
whiskies were also produced under the Gold
including John Muirhead the laird of the
in 1824 by Charles Muirhead and Sons, wine
Label, Silver Label or Old Maturity brands,
clan, and 200 of the clansmen, after bravely
merchants from Edinburgh. That business later
becoming a household name in many countries
defending their king to the end. King James IV
expanded, becoming blenders and exporters
around the world.
of Scotch whisky under the flagship brand: Muirhead's Blue Seal.
became the last monarch from the British Isles to be killed in battle.
Since its sale, Muirhead's has maintained a close relationship with its founders, the
Continuing to stand strong, the Muirhead
The company experienced great success
Muirhead's Clan (name meaning "Head of
whiskies are proudly produced in the
and was eventually acquired in the 1920s by
the Moor" in Gaelic). The clan etched their
Tullibardine Distillery in Blackford,
Macdonald & Muir Distillers - better
name in history as the royal bodyguards of King
Perthshire, and remain fiercely independent
known today as the world-famous
James IV at the disastrous battle of Flodden
and family owned.
Glenmorangie Company.
Field in 1513. The battle pitted the Scots against the English and was one of the most
'Auxilio Dei' is the brand's slogan, translating,
In addition to the Muirhead's Blue Seal blended
devastating battles in Scottish History. The
rightfully so, to: "By the Help of God."
Scotch whisky, a number of premium blended
King, along with thousands of Scots perished,
130 exploredrinks.com
DISTILLERY FOCUS
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exploredrinks.com
131
The history of the TaliskerDistillery is complex
was fifty times more valuable than it was 35
and dramatic. It first began in 1818,when
years earlier. With its increase in success, the
ADDRESS : Talisker Disti llery (Diageo Pie),
Lauchlan Maclean purchased property on the
distillery could no longer function without a
Carbost, Isle of Skye, IV47 8SR, Isle of Skye,
Isle of Skyethat he planned to use for sheep
pier. Minister Macleod denied approval until
Scotl and, UK
farming. By 1829,the monetary potential of a
his death in 1899,which finally allowed for it to
distillery was too much to pass up, and he began
be built.
T: +44 014786 14308 W: www.ma lts.co m VISITOR'S CENTRE OPENING HOURS :
building the original distillery. The church, against the idea, proclaimed that it would be, "One of
In 1960, a valve on the No.1 spirit was not shut
the greatest curses that could befall it or any
properly and the liqu or poured ove r the fire
November-March:
other place." Despite the lack of support from
underneath. This fire destroyed the entirety of
Mo nday-Friday: 10am-4:30p m
the church, specifically the minister at that time
the still house and it didn't reopen until two
Tours: 10:30am, noon, 2pm and 3:30pm
Minister McLeod, the property thrived after the
years later.
April-May :
passed from person to person, but nearly all went
Of the seven distilleries that were once on Isle
Tours th ro ug ho ut day until 4pm
bankrupt during the whisky depression.
of Sky, Talisker is today' s lone survivor, which
June:
completion. For years after that, the property was
Once the economy stabilised in 1892, the
Monday -Saturday: 9:30am-5pm
has earned it 'cult status' and more than
Monday -Saturday: 9:30am-5pm;
50,000 visitors each year.
Sunday: 11am-5pm
Talsiker Distillery was booming once again and
Tours throughout day until 4pm July-August :
Mo nday- Friday: 9:30am-5:30p m; Saturday: 9:30am -5pm; Sunday: 11am-5pm Tours all day, last tou r 1 hour before closing September to October :
Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-5am Tours thr o ug ho ut day, last tour at 4pm CLOSED : Christm as Eve; Christmas Day;
Boxing Day; New Years Day and 2nd January ADULTS: $6.00 CHILDREN (8-17) : $300 TOURS : Talisker Classic Distillery Tour:
$10.00 - 45 Minutes Gu ided t our of the oldest wo rking d istill ery o n the Isle of Skye, See views of Cuillins Have opportunity to taste of Talisker Single Ma lt Scotch W hisky Talisker Flight :
$25.00 - 1 hou r 30 minute s Tour of d ist illery Info rmal t asting of several expr essio n ofT alisker Sing le Malt Talisker Tasting Tour:
$40.00 - 2 hours Tour of d istill ery Tast e 5 exp ressions of Talisker •
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Complimentary nosing glass
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exploredrink s.co m 133
It takes a special kind of person to work on a remote, rugged, island not all that far from the Arctic Circle. Even more so, when they love it so much. Brian Macauley is that sort of man, but it shou ld come as no surprise. It runs in the family, with both his father and his grandfather holding distillery roles before him. In addition, as they say in the classics, Brian grew up an Island man. Brian Macauley is the master distiller at the Scapa Distillery, near the town of Mainland on the Island of Orkney. Now part of the Chivas group, and hence subsequently Pernod Ricard this is one of the two distilleries on this bleak island. Macaulay has wo rked with the Scapa Distillery for more than two decades. He is also the senior bulk operat ions manager for the Chivas Brothers, but he is quick to confirm that it is with Scapa that his heart lies. That said, he does believe that the two roles complement each o ther. The revival of the distillery and the laun ching of its single malt are yet more reasons for Macauley's fondness for Scapa. His ro le obvious ly encompasses all matters Scapa, but also strategic decisions involving the group's future, bulk stocks, blending and more. Brian spends two to three days each week at Scapa, a three hour commute. When he is in residence, he has said that the requirements of the job often mean he works all night, but there is no suggestion that he finds this onerous in any way. Qu ite the contrary. One gets the impre ssion that Brian Macauley is one of those fortunate people whose wo rk is their passion. He has described the position at Scapa as "a real privilege because it's lovely to be really passionate about something you really truly believe in."
MEET
personally taken the pleasure in removing our 'No Visitors' sign and I know I speak on behalf of the team here in saying that we can't wait to see the Scapa Distillery form an interesting, educative and welcoming community."
part of the Orkney
Macauley has also noted that his
job is made so much easier by the support he, and the Distillery, have received from the This recent whisky, mentioned 40% no-age statement,
local community.
above, is a
peated single malt,
called 'Glansa', which was initially aged in
Working at a distillery on a remote Island has
first-fill American oak casks and subsequently
brought
transferred to casks that had previously seen
it is clear that Brian is one of those people who
peated whisky. 'Glansa' is Old Norse for
see problems as opportunities,
'shining storm-laden
least, something
appropriate
skies', which seems very
for whiskies from this windswept,
barren Island. Macauley has described
it as a
this island of contrasts."
or at the very
that life serves up and you
deal with it and move on to the next challenge. Chief among these issues can be the ferry, which has been known not to sail. It can mean
whisky with "fruity textures yet smoky finish" which "makes it the perfect representation
its own challenges and obstacles, but
of
Glansa has followed
that the distillery is close to reaching tipping point as far as storage and available vessels
their Skiren as a regular release from the
goes, with the tanker tied up on the mainland.
revamped distillery. There have also been one-
They were also within a day of stopping
offs and limited editions.
production
on one occasion when their barley
had not arrived and, on another, they had Something
else that is obviously close to
Macauley's heart is that the distillery now offers
an eight hour delay with spirits. Increasing the work force from three to five has helped
a visitors' centre, the first time it has done so
alleviate some of their problems but one
in more than 130 years. Macaulay has been
suspects that this remote and fascinating
quoted as saying, "It is a great honour to be
will always find some new challenge to throw at
able to open the doors to the history and craft
the team.
production
Island
processes here at Scapa distillery,
which have been the secret of precious few
One also suspects that Brian Macauley would
artisans over the last hundred years. I have
not have it any other way.
exploredrinks.com 135
The Orkney Islands, an archipelago off Scotland, would seem to be a bleak place - windswept, barren, cold, storms, isolated and rugged but humans have lived here for over 5,000 years. The islands may not have produced their iconic whiskies for that long, but no doubt the early inhabitants would have appreciated them.
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS Scapa is one of two distilleries on the largest
contact with peat and the malt is not dried over
of their islands, Mainland, located in the town
peat smoke. They believe that this allows for
of Kirkwall. It is the second most northerly
unique sweet, tropical notes to emerge. There
distillery in Scotland, pipped only by the nearby
are eight 44,000 litre fermenters and a mash tun
Highland Park. They are well worth the journey,
of four tonnes.
and this island should be on the bucketlist for every whisky lover. Technically, they are described as Highland whiskies.
After distillation, the new make spirit is racked into first fill American oak casks, sourced from Tennessee and Kentucky. These contribute to the
Scapa was founded back in 1885, by Madarlane &
vanillin nuances seen in Scapa malts. Production
Townsend, before eventually joining what would
capacity is one million litres per annum.
become part of the Chivas Regal/Pernod Ricard empire in the 1950s. John Townsend was General
One advantage of such an extreme climate is
Manager of the operation from opening through
that evaporation,
until just after World War One, in 1919, when
than that encountered
the angels' share, is lower at most distilleries.
it became the Scapa Distillery Company Ltd. There were some problems along the way, with
A small team of five, in addition
the operation going into voluntary liquidation
distiller, operate
to the master
Scapa on a 24-hour basis.
in 1934, but it was revived in 1936 by the Bloch
It is one of the last remaining
Brothers. Despite its valued contribution to
operated
blends, as well as its own distinctive malts, most
successive shifts. It is, for this team, far more
notably the popular 12-Year-Old, it was sidelined
than a job. The master distiller
in 1994. Eternal closure looked certain to be its
the island and both his father and grandfather
fate. A reprieve came in 1997, when production
worked at the distillery.
distilleries,
manually
with the crew working grew up on
recommenced, though slowly. There was a time when visiting Scapa meant Resurrection came in 2004 and the distillery was
knocking
on the door and hoping that
rebuilt and fully reopened. A year later, further
someone
had the time to show you around.
refurbishment
They usually did, but no guarantees.
took place and Chivas Brothers
they offer various organised
took over the site.
Tour' (ÂŁ10.00, duration:
Now,
tours. The 'Scapa
45 minutes) takes
The style of Scapa malts is described as being
guests through
from the subtle end of the spectrum, heather
to see one of the industry's last remaining
the process and allows them
and honey with sea spray. A 14-Year-Old
Lomond Stills in action. This barrel-shaped
replaced the 12 as the standard and, in 2009, a
wash still was installed
16-Year-Old, which sees an extra two years in
wider and taller neck than is usual, the sole
first fill American oak, was added to the range,
survivor of its style used for making whisky.
later becoming
The team use this still as they like the richer,
their 'standard'. There are
various vintage bottlings
and age statement
releases, up to 25 years, though bottlings come and go. Aficionados out for independent
can
know to keep an eye
releases, which are not
infrequent, of single malts from this distillery.
in 1959 and has a
fruitier spirit it delivers. Visitors will also see the famous Scapa Flow natural anchorage site. And, of course, finish with a glass of Scapa Skiren. There is the option to extend the tasting to include the Glansa.
Douglas Laing and Gordon & MacPhail have been especially active. There is a wide range of
The 'Scapa Experience' (ÂŁ20.00, duration: 1.5
ages made available by these releases, ranging
hours) is a more extensive tour and includes the
from 11-Year-Old to 25-Years.
bonded warehouses and maturing whisky casks.
The distillery uses one wash still and one spirit
and also a whisky dram drawn from one of the
It is followed by a tasting session of three spirits still. Scapa is distinctive as, despite using
casks in the warehouse. Pre-booking these
'peaty' water from the Orquil Springs and the
tours is recommended.
Lingro Burn, it has a much less distinctive peat accessed as well. Care is taken to transport the
ADDRESS:St. Ola, Kirkwall, Orkney KW15 1SE E: info@scapamalt.com
water through pipelines to avoid any further
W: www.scapamalt.com
character than most. Other water sources are
exploredrinks.com 137
FEATURE
Although
farmers in the interior also planted
Some of these factors harmed rye's reputation
familiar Old World grains, they continued to
more than they did bourbon's, but ultimately it
grow a lot of corn. The whiskey they made from
was changing tastes that caused rye's decline.
it, usually seasoned with a little rye, came to be
The earthy, spicy character of rye whiskey just
known as bourbon.
wasn't favoured anymore.
But rye whiskey persisted in Virginia, Maryland,
Distillers to the north, in Canada, also made
and Pennsylvania, and continued to be popular
rye whiskey, but in a very different style. They
throughout the east, even as bourbon took hold
softened rye's strong flavours the same way their
in the south and west. Nationally, sales of the two
cousins in Scotland and Ireland did with malt
types were about equal by the late 19th century.
whisky, by mixing it with nearly-neutral spirit.
Although
nationwide
Prohibition didn't begin
Beginning in the late 1960s, whiskey of all
until 1920, the idea had been knocking around
types took a steep tumble in the U.S. and the
for decades. Maine became the first state to
industry contracted
ban beverage alcohol way back in 1851. The
Kentucky and Tennessee. Kentucky distilleries
movement caused a lot of disruption,
as did the
sharply into its heartland of
had always made a little rye whiskey in addition
various troubles and scandals having to do with
to bourbon, and as rye declined, their rye
alcohol taxation. During the late 19th century
output became enough to satisfy nationwide
'Robber Baron' era, attempts were made to
demand. The last whiskey distillery in the
monopolise
east closed in 1990. Even Old Overholt, a
alcohol production.
exploredrinks.com 139
FEATURE Under U.S. rules, bourbon
and rye are
inevitably very similar because both must be aged in new, charred oak barrels. Wood provides all of the colour (other colouring is prohibited)
and most of the flavour. The
only difference
is in the mash itself. Bourbon
mashes must be at least 51 per cent corn, but usually are between 75 and 80 per cent corn, with a dash of rye or wheat for flavour. Rye mashes must be at least 51 per cent rye, and most are just that, the rest being corn. In between are the high-rye bourbons,
at about
30 per cent rye and 60 per cent corn. (Virtually all whiskey mash bills in the U.S. include about 10 per cent malted barley.) MGP, a distillery in Indiana, makes a very popular whiskey that is 95 rye, but it is an outlier. You may see references to American-style rye whiskey as 'straight
rye'. 'Straight'
means
Pennsylvania rye and once the country's #1
'Imbibe',
whiskey, moved to Kentucky.
wrote the first book of cocktail recipes in
the same thing for rye whiskey as it does
1862. The cocktail culture they were looking
for bourbon
Rye whiskey never went away, but it came close.
to revive had been centred on New York City
which is that it has been aged for at least two
For many years only four distilleries made it, all in
and American-style
years. The term 'straight
Kentucky, and they could make all they needed
whiskey of choice in most cocktails that called
to distinguish
for the year in two or three days of production.
for American whiskey.
Canadian version. 'Straight'
Rye was kept alive, in part, by bars, particularly
Because the quality of available spirits during
his tribute to Jerry Thomas, who
rye, not bourbon, was the
or any other American type,
them different,
rye' is often used
American-style
rye from the isn't what makes
it just indicates that they are.
What you have in American whiskey is a
in the east, that used it for a variety of classic
Prohibition
cocktails, such as the Manhattan and Sazerac.
always in short supply, cocktails became
continuum
Many barkeepers felt that a bar without rye whiskey
the norm. Somewhat ironically, it was in
between styles. At the mild end are wheated
simply wasn't a bar, even if it was rarely ordered.
speakeasies that public drinking by women
bourbons, such as Maker's Mark, which contain
became socially acceptable.
no rye. America's most popular whiskey, Jack
was often low, and they were
Not bound by
more than a sharp distinction
The 70s, 80s, and into the 90s was the era
machismo male drinking customs, they chose
Daniel's, contains a dollop of rye, only about
of pop wines, coolers, and shooters. Sweet
drinks that tasted good.
8 per cent. Several bourbons are in a similar
outsold many once popular whiskeys. Rye
As the 20th century gave way to the 21st, rye
top sellers, contain about 15 per cent rye. Four
came close to dying, and bourbon wasn't
seemed to be making a comeback. Bartenders,
Roses, Bulleit, and Old Grand-Dad
far behind. Some in the industry compared
rebranded as mixologists, championed
twice that much. After that, you're in straight
range. Jim Beam and Evan Williams, two other
liqueurs like DeKuyper Peachtree Schnapps
it. It
bourbon and rye to vermouth, a spirit that was
made good copy. The only thing was, sales had
only hanging around as an ingredient
barely budged.
in certain
have about
rye territory.
Part of that was the inevitable
perennial cocktails. Sometimes it seemed as if
whiskey ageing cycle, which means you can
At the mild end, wood flavours dominate.
the Manhattan was single-handedly
only bottle so much, and you can't sell more
Corn provides sweetness and body but little
than you make.
character. At about the Jim Beam level, rye
But, in time, distilleries began to add a day or
spice and a certain ineffable '00mph'.
Much as the leaders of the Renaissance looked
two of rye whiskey production.
higher levels of rye, spice gives way to fruit.
to ancient Greece and Rome for inspiration,
which has always made rye, typically made rye
bourbon,
keeping
rye, sweet vermouth, and Angostura
begins to cut through
bitters in production. Heaven Hill,
and give the spirit some At
For cocktails, rye is the American whiskey you want
so too did the pioneers of the craft cocktail
one day in the spring and another in the fall.
movement
That was enough until about 2005 when they
if you want to taste the whiskey through everything
David Wondrich started writing about cocktails
doubled
else. Bourbons, especially wheated bourbons, tend
for Esquire Magazine and often delved into
twelve times a year. Jim Beam makes the most
cocktail history. In 2004, Ted Haigh published
rye whiskey, while Jack Daniel's, America's
look to the glorious past. In 1999,
it to four times a year. By 2014 it was
to disappear in the mix. Ryes don't.
'Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails',
largest whiskey distillery, started making rye in
documenting
2012. Many of America's new craft distilleries
least so long as American whiskey, in general,
make rye instead of bourbon.
continues to prosper.
his search for vintage ingredients
as well as recipes. In 2007, Wondrich published
Rye whiskey seems to be back for good, at
exploredrinks.com 141
HISTORY
If you go to Lynchburg, you'll find the date 1850
Every year in September, folks in Lynchburg and
the tour as the" official" date of Jack's birth.
inscribed on his gravestone
and referred to on
elsewhere around the world gather to celebrate
And that it is - the" official" date. We know
the birthday of Mr Jasper Newton Daniel,
for a fact, it's not the "actual" date. By 1850,
commonly known as Jack. We think Mr Jack
we're pretty sure Jack's mother was dead, which
would be proud that people still pause to raise
would make his birth in that year somewhat
his whiskey in his honour. We think he might be
problematic.
equally amused that they do this not knowing
data, that Jack was actually born two years
the exact day in September
earlier in 1848.
that matter, what year.
142 exploredrinks.com
he was born or, for
It's more likely, based on census
SO WHY THE DISCREPANCY? Well, the 1850 date on the gravestone was the work of Jack's nephew, Lem Matlow, who laboured side by side with his uncle and eventually inherited his Distillery. Lem probably got this information
from his Uncle Jack. Now
Jack, because he ran away from home at an early age and both his parents had passed away by the time he was around 14 years old, might not have known the actual year of his birth. Or, because he was a lifelong bachelor and ladies' man who entertained female acquaintances,
a number of
he might have shaved
a couple of years off his age. Lant Wood, a man who knew Mr Jack, wrote in his memoirs, "[Jack] never mentioned
his age, since he was a
bachelor ... He called the young ladies 'damsels' or 'fair damsels'. He was extremely popular with the younger generation."
Whether he
was uncertain of the actual year or it was just a matter of pride, Jack died before revealing the truth about this mystery. Today, it's only one of the many unknowns that surround Mr Jack and his Distillery. "Here's to Mr Jack, more than 165 years old and still out in the bars every night."
,
VISIT JACK DANIEL'S
I
When in Tennessee, a trip to Lynchburg â&#x20AC;˘
is a must. There are multiple tour options to choose from depending on how much time you have and if you want to eat. The prices are very reasonable too, starting with a 1 hour 10 min tour for just $15 US and going up to a 3 hour tour and lunch at neighbouring
Miss Mary Bobo's restaurant
for $100 US. Learn all about the o rig inal square bott le, Jack's mystery birthday a nd the legend behind the Old No 7. To tour the distillery, book online www.jackdaniels.co m/en-au/visit-di sti llery
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
The answer really depends on who you ask. Is it the most obvious which, in our opinion, would be that the number 7 is just lucky, and maybe Mr. Jack Daniel felt like he had received some good fortune when he landed on the whiskey that would go on to bear his name. But ask about Jack Daniel, the man, and you'll get a view of a person who believed more in hard work than in luck. His whiskey making motto was simply, "Every day we make it, we'll make it the best we can". Doesn't sound like someone putting the recipe down to luck.
1
So was this to do with the b atc b, or recipe, that Jack was constantly working to
f
erfed ? Possi_~ ly landing on
his seventh batch or recipe and sticking with it? I
'.
If you were to have asked the late Jimmy Bedford, the Jack Daniel's sixth master distiller, how Old No. 7 got its name, he had a story he swore by. Jimmy said that one of Mr. Jack's shipments of whiskey was lost by the railroad. When the barrels were finally found the word 'Old' was written on the shipping ticket that happened to be the 'No. 7'. The shopkeeper that eventually received the whiskey liked it so much he ordered some more of that 'Old No. 7'. The mystery deepens, as some speculate it is to do with Mr. Jack's love life. He remained unmarried and had numerous girlfriends, in which case if the name is a reference to a lady friend, it could explain his continued single status. And if none of these stories work for you, well there are plenty more. Some say Mr. Jack had a friend with seven successful stories; others simpl y say
J h! _t~theJ in his signature ~
bled a 7. One old-timer
- con-fidently contends that Jack Daniel's was sold for a-. -
- '/ lohg ti lJ}e with -
.
'
the motto, "Whiskey made as our fathers -
made it for 7 generations". The government even gets ~~
redit, as a change
in tax districts had Mr. Jackre ~ inding his growing number of friends that his whiskey was made in the old ~
-~
No. 7 district. - The truth is, with so many stories, quite possibly Mr. Jack- didn't want any of us to really know, and was looking for a reason for folks to talk. As nothing goes better with whiskey than good conversation, perhaps Mr. Jack just wanted to give us something to talk ~bout. So there you have it ... 100 years later and folks are still
What's the number one question the staff at the Jack Daniel's distillery get? Universally, it has been, "What does the number seven mean in Old No. 7?"
talking.
Make sure, when you drop past the distillery,
that you ask the question. It'll be fascinating what response you get.
exploredrinks.com
145
BUFFA
DIS
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
Edmund H. Taylor, a descendant
of not one but
two former US presidents (Madison and Taylor), purchased the distillery in 1870 and named it the Old Fire Copper Distillery (affectionately known as the 'OFC'). He sold it, and another distillery, to George T. Stagg in 1878, though he continued to work with the distillery. Stagg installed steam heating in the storage areas, the first attempt at climate control for the maturation of whiskey in America. This steam heating is still used today. In 1904, the name was changed to the George T. Stagg Distillery. The distillery was purchased by the Sazerac Company in 1992. The name was changed, yet again, in 1999 to Buffalo Trace Distillery, which comes from an ancient buffalo crossing on the banks of the nearby Kentucky River. The famous Daniel Boone had passed through, following the trace, just a few years before the Lee brothers distilled their first whiskey. Current Master Distiller, Harlen Wheatley, was appointed
to his position in 2005, replacing
Gary Gayheart, who had held the role since 1972. Wheatley is just the sixth Master Distiller to hold the role since the Civil War.
exploredrinks.com 147
In 2016, a $200 million expansion commenced.
Enter Albert Bacon Blanton, Harrison's son,
During these renovations, what has become
who worked at the distillery for well over half a
known as 'Bourbon
century, joining as an office boy at 16 in 1897.
Pompeii' was discovered.
Slowly, the excavators unveiled the original
By 1921, he was President of the company.
distillery, including intact 11,000-gallon
Blanton was born on the next door farm and
fermenting
led the operation
tanks which were built by Taylor. His
through the perils of
distillery was first established in 1869, but was
Prohibition
demolished
one of only four producers allowed to do so), a
and rebuilt, bigger and better, in
(producing 'medicinal whisky' as
1873, for what was then a massive amount of
devastating flood in 1937, which was measured,
money - $70,000USD. This new distillery lasted
at its peak, as 17 feet above the power plant,
only until 1882 before it was consumed by fire,
and beyond.
initiated by a lightning strike, just four years after the sale to Stagg.
The Blanton's Single Barrel Bourbon,
It seems not all of it was destroyed. Taylor,
bourbon produced
introduced
in 1984, was the first single barrel and came from a concept
In 2013, the distillery was named a 'National Historic Landmark'.
still working with the new operation,
that Blanton had used for his private stocks.
apparently rebuilt over the remains of the
Aged for six to eight years, it is matured in
earlier distillery and eventually what was left
Warehouse H, notable as their only metal-
more about this distillery than a roll call of the
behind was forgotten.
clad warehouse, which promotes
bourbons they produce, for themselves, in
Much of the rebuild
more rapid
Their illustrious history aside, nothing says
involved copper, as Taylor believed it provided
ageing due to quicker heat transference. This
joint ventures, and on contract for bottlers. The
a superior product. The cost of this new
warehouse was built before World War II, under
Buffalo Trace bourbons, Col. E. H. Taylor, Eagle
distillery was the full amount of the insurance,
the watch of Blanton. The concept of this single
Rare, George T. Stagg, McAfee's Benchmark,
plus a further $44,000. The new distillery was
barrel bourbon was introduced
O.F.C., Old Taylor, Sazerac, Thomas H. Handy,
by Elmer Lee,
W. L. Weller, the Wheatley vodka, Blanton's
used until the 50s when it was knocked down
the master distiller and a man hired by Blanton
and concreted over, to be used for storage
back in 1949. Most of the different Blanton's
single-barrel,
purposes. Historians and distillers alike are
expressions are exported and unavailable in the
famous Pappy van Winkle's Family Reserve.
fascinated by this site, which is now open to
USA- something that fails to engender a great
There are many others.
the public, not least because it seems many of
deal of sympathy with bourbon fans abroad, as
the processes of the day vary considerably from
they really are excellent spirits. Blanton passed
This distillery will always hold a special place in
current practices.
away in 1959.
the heart of bourbon
148 exploredrinks.com
Elmer T. Lee and, of course, the
lovers around the world.
-TASTING NOTES -
-THE STORYIn Kentucky, the only thing more important than bourbon is family. Honouring the long branches of their family trees reaching from the Bluegrass State to the Lone Star State, Matthew McConaughey and Wild Turkey Master Distiller Eddie Russell present their rare, small-batch bourbon.
Nose
Balanced blend of vanilla and spices.
Palate
Flavours of caramel, pear and hints of citrus.
Finish
Subtle smoky finish is buttery smooth with notes of gentle pepper and toasted oak.
- THE BOURBON Longbranch is a rare small batch bourbon made with 8-year old Wild Turkey Bourbon and refined through a special filtration process, with Texas mesquite and oak charcoals - a unique method that deepens the flavour and complexity of the whiskey.
WILD TUR.KEY.
LONGBRANCH~ REALBOURBON. ND APOLOGIES.
IDRINKRESPONSIBLY I
Son of legendary master distiller Jimmy Russell and second generation
In his time as master distiller, Eddie has been
Russell to work for Wild Turkey,
when Eddie Russell chose to join the family business in
the driving force of Wild Turkey Longbranch, the
1981 he started at the lower end of the job spectrum,
brand's collaboration
as a humble relief operator. From there, he worked
McConaughey.
his way up the job ladder, eventually becoming a
production
with renowned actor Matthew
He has also been instrumental
in the
of Wild Turkey's Master's Keep Revival -
supervisor of new production and then a warehouse
the fourth expression of the acclaimed Master's Keep
supervisor. Aher two decades with Wild Turkey,
Series. Currently a duty free exclusive in Australia, this expression will be released on the domestic market in May 2019.
he moved into the position of manager of barrel maturation and warehousing, and it was in this role that he worked alongside his father to create Russell's Reserve 10-Year-Old award-winning bourbon
Now in his 37th year at the company, this year Eddie and Jimmy will celebrate a combined 101 years of
It was at this stage that Eddie pushed for the
service at the Wild Turkey distillery. This appropriately
introduction of Wild Turkey Bourbon, initially called
pays homage to Wild Turkey 101, the expression that launched Jimmy's career over 60 years ago.
Wild Turkey 81, to offer drinkers a premium bourbon that can be mixed in any cocktail and maintain its bold and spicy taste.
Keeping the business in the family, Eddie's son, Bruce, joined the company as a brand ambassador
In 2010, Eddie was inducted to the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame alongside his father and other greats of
in Austin,
Texas some year's ago, and has recently taken a role at the distillery to learn how to produce bourbon.
the bourbon industry. Following this accolade, Eddie was bestowed with the title of master distiller in 2015.
Eddie lives in Lawrenceburg,
He and his father are now the industry's only father and son master distiller duo that work together side-by-
he was born and raised, with his wife Judy. In his spare time, he likes to play golf or go training
KY,the town where
side. Both Eddie and Jimmy are now actively involved
and hunting with hunting dogs
in every step of the distillation and ageing process of Wild Turkey's whiskeys
Jimmy, he takes immense pleasure in travelling the United States and talking about his beloved Wild Turkey whiskey.
15 0 exp loredrinks.com
Just like his father
DISTILLERY FOCUS
Eddie with father Jimmy Russell
,
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When Wild Turkey began working with Hollywood A-List actor Matthew McConaughey, the idea was to form a genuine collaboration rather than have the star as merely a figure-head for an already well-known brand .
Eddie Russell, Wild Turkey's Master Distiller and industry legend, invited McConaughey to become the brand director in 2016, working behind the camera and in front of it in televisi on commercials to reintroduce the world to Wild Turkey.
and full finish. The first filtration process uses charcoa l made from American White Oak and the second uses charcoal made from Texas
-..... ..
The rare srl]all l:'iatch Kentucky bourbon is refined with/Texas mesquite and oak cha rcoals - a methoa tfiat deepens the flavour and I . ~ff~Jf h· k Th · inspire · . d comr:i ex1ty ~~w is ey. e name is by the frienas tfiat form the longest branches of ':~ 'Ulil our "'"" familyij ree.s.
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"Longbr l,.. nch; its simplest form, is an extended i hand, inv\ting a friend into your family," I
"
McC:onaughey said . "So the branch that was extended to me from the Russells was a long o ne, one that reached from Kentucky to Texas and back again. I offered the mesquite from my great state to add to their legendary Kentucky whiskey and together we made Longbranch."
mesquite wood, giving the bourbon notes of smoky sweetness. Made with eight -year-old Wild Turkey Bourbon, Longbranch is an exceptional bourbon with a bright gold color and aroma that is a balanced blend of vanilla and spices. Flavours of caramel, pear, and hints of citrus roun~,.out t e palate. The subtle, smoky finish is bu tt ery smooth, with -~ notes of gentle pepper and i_ t oasted oak. -'lllo, Commenting on the release, Master Dist iller Eddie Russell said: "When we were creating Wild Turkey Longbran ch, we talked at length about how to make a product that represents elements of both Texas and Kentucky."
To create Longbranch's signature flavour, McConaughey and Russell spent co untless hours sharing notes, then perfected a unique process that combines two separate charcoal filtration methods to give Longbranch a smooth
152 ex pl o red rin ks.com
"O ur goal was to make a straight bourbon whiskey with a soft sweetness that was still unmistakably Wild Turkey. The result was a bourbon that we both truly enjoy drinking neat, and look forward to sharing with others."
TALKING TURKEY WITH MATTHEW MCCONAUGH explore WHISKY: How involved were you in
Master Distiller Eddie Russell, was a natural
the creation of Longbranch?
evolution of my work with Wild Turkey.
Matthew McConaughey: I was involved every
eW: Why did you initially decide to partner
step of the way, from concept to creation. We
with Wild Turkey?
started working on the project in the spring of 2016. Together, we wanted to make a product
MM: I visited the Wild Turkey distillery about
that represented both of our home states, Texas
four years ago and met Master Distillers Jimmy
and Kentucky. I obviously let Eddie do the
and Eddie Russell. When I was there, I learned
bourbon making, and he would constantly send
about the Russell family legacy and the distilling
me samples to taste for feedback. I handled the
process, but what stuck with me was the
bottle design.
incredible story behind the brand, a story that
eW: I know you're in the Wild Turkey
the passion, character and authenticity. It's a
commercials.
brand and a family that I truly admire.
I believe deserves to be told. I was inspired by
Is Longbranch part of your
advertising campaign for the brand? eW: Are you getting paid for creating this MM: I've been working with Wild Turkey
product?
for the past three years. I'm their Creative Director, which means I direct and star in the ad
MM: The creation of Longbranch is part of my
campaign and help them introduce Wild Turkey
partnership with Wild Turkey. I never discuss
Bourbon to new audiences. Longbranch
money, but can say that I have a personal
is a
natural extension to my partnership with the
interest in the success of this product
brand. I've always wanted to create a bourbon that I could call my favorite and with the help of
eW: Is Longbranch a limited edition to
Eddie Russell, we were able to do just that.
the Wild Turkey portfolio? How long will Longbranch be on the shelves?
eW: You serve as the Creative Director for the brand, were you involved in creating the
MM: Longbranch is not a limited edition and
creative campaign for the launch?
will be a permanent
expression in the Wild
Turkey portfolio.
MM: As a Creative Director for the brand, I help the team at Wild Turkey tell their story and bring my perspective to a variety of creative projects. The launch of Longbranch
is
no different. I worked with the team to bring Longbranch's story to life.
eW: Was it always the plan for you to create a bourbon for the brand? MM: Yes. I am a huge bourbon fan and have so much respect for the Russells and Wild Turkey. Since I joined the Wild Turkey family, I've really immersed myself in the world of bourbon, and creating Longbranch with one of the greats, exploredrinks.com
153
~J
'j t
Proudly the oldest operating bourbon distillery i.n the coJntry , whiskey has been made on the site of this-Nati~ . al Historic ,, Landmark since 1812.
,..: .
,. ~
'
Nestled amongst the picturesque hills of
1 Visitors can experience these techn ol ogi J~ by
bluegrass and thoroughbred
joining one of the distillery's
farms, along
variou f ou{s.T~ e
the banks of Glenn's Creek, lies the charming
standard Distillery Tour offers guests a guided
Woodford
journey through the distillery, observ ~ g th '
Reserve Distillery. The distillery
'
first began when Kentucky local Elijah Pepper
whiskey making processes and learning a,bout
moved to the site in search of fresh spring
the history of bourbon and Woodford
R~serve,
water for his whiskey. What began as a small
including how the brand's 'five sources ,of flavour' ,'.
batch crafting business behind the Woodford
model makes it unique. For those looking for
County Courthouse had grown in demand to
a more in-depth experience, the Cor ? to Cork /
such an extent that Elijah was forced to expand
Tour is a two-hour session showcasing the
his operation, and an abundance of water was
mechanical, chemical, technical and sensory
required to do so. The limestone waters of
stages to creating bourbon, together with a
Glenn's Creek proved the ideal source.
standard distillery tour. The tour finishes with a .. ¡
~ I
special tasting of Woodford
-!
Reserve bourbon. -~-liliil;;_
It was years later at this very site that Master Distiller James Christopher Crow perfected his
If you consider yourself a bit of a history buff,
whiskey production techniques, many of which
head along to the National Landmark Tour.
are still common practice today. The distillery
The two-hour experience takes guests through
continues to use the original copper-pot stills
the significant cultural and architectural
imported from Scotland and the 100-year-old
developments
cypress wood fermenters, alongside state-of-
Distillery over the course of its more than 200
the-art technologies
year history as a Kentucky landmark. A standard
such as the 500-foot-long
gravity-fed barrel run and the heat-cycled barrel houses, the only of their type in the world.
154 exploredrinks.com
of the Woodford
Reserve
distillery tour and a whiskey tasting follow this.
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
If your tour is on a Friday or a Saturday, you can add on a mixology presentation with the Woodford Reserve brand ambassador. In this session, you will learn how to make a Woodford Reserve signature serve cocktail. The experience lasts approximately 20 minutes and the choice of cocktail will change each week. The distillery also hosts a number of special events throughout the year, including dinners and live music, and there is a gift shop and cafe on site.
ADDRESS: 7855 McCracken Pike, Versailles, KY 40383
T:(859) 879 1812 W: www.woodfordreserve.com/distillery/our-distillery OPENING HOURS: Monday-Saturday: 9am-5pm Sunday: 12pm-4:30pm
TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Distillery Tour:
$14pp, 1hr, online booking and walk-ins Monday-Saturday: 10am-3pm Sunday: 1pm-3pm (March-December) Cork to Cork:
$30pp, 2hr, online booking. Max six people. Tuesdays-Thursdays: 2:30pm National Landmark:
$30pp, 2hr, phone reservations required. Wednesdays: 2:30pm exploredrinks.com
155
156 exploredrinks.com
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
LOT 40 & PIKE CREEK DISTILLERY Lot 40 Canadian Rye and Pike Creek Whisky were/are both part of the Hiram Walker, and subsequently Pernod Ricard, business which has, as they say in the classics, forgotten more about making good whisky than most will ever know. Hiram Walker, an American
businessman, was
high-speed
lines. There are 50 different bottle
Lot 40 won 'Canadian Whisky of the Year' in
born in 1816 and passed away, just before the
moulds which can be used. This is the home of
2015, a thrill that the master distiller described
turn of the century. He achieved great many
Lot 40 rye and so much more.
as akin to winning the Stanley Cup. There is
The name, 'Lot 40', comes from a plot of land
55 per cent.
things during his life, but is undoubtedly
also a cask strength rye edition, 12-Year-Old at
most
famous for his whisky legacy.
where ancestors of former master distiller, Mike In 1858, he purchased become Walkerville, established
Booth, first set up a still generations
land in what would
earlier.
a distillery. He had saved some
Pike Creek is a corn-based,
blended
whisky,
aged in Bourbon barrels and finished in port
Ontario, Canada, and Large HW might be, but that does not mean
controlled
warehouse to allow temperature
they cannot turn their hand to distilling
this to fund the distillery. The initial results
batches, which is the philosophy
were marketed as 'Hiram Walker's Club
40'. They use a single copper pot still, with
as the standard
a process of maturation
export version, they also offer a 21-Year-Old
Whisky', and it was so successful that his
small
casks. It is notable for ageing in a non-climate
$40,000 from his grocery business and used
behind 'Lot
that does leave a
competitors
in the United States lobbied
their
lovely vanillin note in the rye. Aficionados
government
to pass legislation
all
attribute
requiring
fluctuations
to influence maturation.
As well
10-Year-Old and a younger
Speyside Malt Cask Whisky.
this whisky to the '90s boom in
foreign whiskies clearly state their country of
high-end spirits. Canada was seen as lacking
For many years, the massive Hiram Walker
origin. In no time, Walker's 'Canadian
any candidates
enterprise was closed to the pub Iic, for
Club'
for the category and the
was that country's leading export whisky.
team at HW set about rectifying that. The
At the time, Walker's business became so
trio of whiskies created to fit this niche were
important
Pike Creek, Gooderham
to Walkerville
(note the name), a
& Worts and Lot
obvious reasons, but recently, the decision has been made to engage with interested devotees and to allow limited access, by way of a walking tour. Corby Spirits have entered
company town if ever there was one, that
40. One does not have to look far to find
Hiram had control over most aspects of life
Canadians who will rate Lot 40 as the finest
into an arrangement
there - "from public works to religious services
ever made in their country. While the quality
food tourism outfit, to allow groups of up to
to police and the fire brigade".
was never in question, there was a feeling
16 to tour the facility and to enjoy a tutored
that, paradoxically,
tasting of a range of the Walker whiskies -
they may have been even
with WindsorEats,
a local
& Worts
The Walker family sold the business in 1926,
more successful if priced amongst the whisky
Wiser's Deluxe, Lot 40, Gooderham
for the cost of the whisky alone, and it moved
stratosphere,
and Pike Creek, as well as a tasting direct from
through several sets of hands until it became
Strange world.
and not seen as value products.
a whisky barrel - in the visitor centre. This
part of Pernod Ricard (Canadian Club is
tour also includes a visit to the historic town
owned by Beam Suntory, but still made at
Lot 40 did disappear for quite some years,
established
the distillery), via their Canadian arm, Corby
and became the white whale for Canadian
receives a bottle of whisky at the conclusion.
Spirits. The distillery is still the largest in
whisky lovers, but is back in force now - the
North America, with 37 fermenters,
same story also applies to Pike Creek, which
producing
ADDRESS: 2072 Riverside Dr E, Windsor, ON
180,000 litres of alcohol every day, five days a
is named after an adjoining
week (as well as whisky, they also make other
to the distillery. These absences can be partly
T: +1 519-254-5171
spirits such as rum and vodka - 150 products
explained
W: hiramwalker.com
in all), 50 million bottles a year. Fourteen
material, but also to an initial lack of interest,
warehouses hold 1.6 million barrels of spirits.
very different to today.
Blending and bottling
take place on four
creek and suburb,
by Hiram Walker and everyone
by the need to build aged stocks of
N8Y 4S5, Canada
And if you can't make it in person, you can take a virtual tour here - tour.jpwisers.com.
exploredrinks.com 157
The Global Spirit Think whisky and one is automatically transported to the moors and hills of Scotland, its barren, rugged islands and ancient castles. And of course, the wonderful distilleries that have made this glorious spirit so famous. Or perhaps one might consider Ireland. Naturally, the bourbons from America will play a role. The younger amongst us might immediately look to the East, to Japan and the exciting whiskies that are now standard. Perhaps patriotism will come to the fore and the exciting, emerging whiskies from Tasmania will spring to mind. These days, that only scratches the surface
region of Belgium has made numerous award-
evaluated
of whisky-producing
winning whiskies.
also the New World Whisky of that year, as
nations, though these
judged
do take pride of place in terms of output and history. As well as these 'usual suspects',
Friends, who have become
devotees,
estimates suggest that at least 25 nations now
continually
make whisky.
seeing from the Kavalan Distillery
praise the whiskies that they are
in the World Whisky Awards and
by Jim Murray in his 2012 Whisky
Bible suggests my friends are not alone in their admiration.
(owned
by the King Car Group, because alcohol
Switzerland
For example, it turns out that not only can
and driving go so well together)
a veritable
Belgium play soccer, they can make cracking
County of Taiwan - and they guard them
distilling
whisky. The Belgian Owl Distillery in Hesbaye
jealously.
Norway has ten distilleries.
158 exploredrinks.com
in the Yilan
Best New World Whisky 2012,
has around two dozen distilleries, explosion
of production
given that
grain was illegal up until 1999. Even
FEATURE
IIIHMUIJIMi#IIP
0 IDEAOF THEEXTENTOR THE UALITYOFTHESPIRITS NDUSTRYIN INDIA'
much higher loss -10 to 12% rather than the usual 2%- to the Angel's share (evaporation). These conditions
also see whisky maturing
much faster than in countries like Scotland, a commercial advantage if ever there was one. The malt received a score of 94.5 from expert, Jim Murray. Do we consider Japan as the home of emerging whisky? Surely not as these days, their whiskies are world famous and well known by anyone with even a passing interest in good spirits. And they have been for many years. Perhaps we should consider an emerging producer. The Matsui Shuzou Distillery, which
R.AMPUR
was founded back in 1910, is located in Tottori,
INDIANSINGLE MALTWHISKY
which is a coastal prefecture found in southern
NON•CHI LL Fll.fU EO
Honshu region. This is the least populated
,,.,.••SELECT
CASKS
prefecture in all Japan, although everything is
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relative, and the region is best known for its
p,llli,,,,i
~
sand dunes. In time, it might become more famous for the Matsui Shuzou Breweries, which
··~•✓~
also produces shochu and traditional
sake. As
well, of course, as whisky, although the whisky
RAMP UR
did come well after the shochu and sake.
INOIAM SING LE MALTWHISK Y HOM-CHILL FI L.TEREO
.,,,..,SELECT CASI>
Sand dunes might be a focus but the distillery, near the Sea of Japan and to the northwest of the old capital, Kyoto, is also within spitting distance of Mount Daisen, a volcanic peak. It means that the water used at the distillery has been seeping through volcanic stone for centuries, providing the unique character and contributing
to the purity of the spirit produced.
The distillery has no visitors' centre and does not offer direct sales, all contributing
to the
Many in the West have no idea of the extent
whiskies of 2017 in the prestigious San Francisco
extremely low profile it has managed to keep
or the quality of the spirits industry in India,
competition,
for so long. It releases ten single malts which
picking up double gold.
appear under the Kurayoshi label and a further
not just with whiskies but across the board. almost 60% of the
Paul John is another highly regarded Indian
five grain whiskies under the Tottori label. The
spirits market in that country, which equates
producer of both single malt and single cask
first of the whiskies, Kurayoshi Pure Malt Whisky,
to around 175 million cases.
whiskies. They use Indian malted barley,
is a 100% malted barley Whisky, sourced from
imported
distilleries around Scotland, and forwarded
But whisky rules, occupying
Scottish peat, traditional
copper pot
Radico Khaitan is India's fourth largest spirits
stills crafted in India and charred American oak
to Japan, for blending with the local product.
company. Originally
casks (first fill ex-Bourbon
Their spirit is distilled in copper pot stills and
known as the Rampur
casks) for maturation.
Distillery, the name used for its premium whisky,
Headquarters
production
malt distillery is located in Goa. They have
has been going on for over half a
century. Malted barley, for blends, has been
is in Bangalore but the single
aged in ex-Bourbon
casks for at least three
years. It is then bottled at 46% ABV
offered blends since as far back as 1992 and
produced since 1990, but the first malt whisky
made the decision to add single malts to their
was only released to the world in 2016. It did not
production
take long for word to spread and for aficionados
and humidity in Goa give the whisky its own
coming years, and no doubt some will be from
to hear about this malt, ranked in the top five
inimitable characters, but this also means a
countries yet to produce a drop.
in 2008. The high temperatures
Whatever your definition
of 'emerging',
we can
look forward to many more great whiskies in the
exploredrinks.com 159
hisky industry ns to the Japanese hwId a cherished
No matter whatever ~kfae Whisky will a~w~~!th~r of Japanese ars to come, known as t e in the ye hanksto the man ka Taketsuru. position - t
Whisky', Masata
In 1918, sake maker Masataka Taketsuru, went
In 1934, after leaving the brewery, Masataka
to Scotland to learn how to make whisky.
began Nikka Whisky (originally
Arriving
Dainipponkaju
in war-torn Europe must have been
Co. - Dai Nippon
the culture shock to end them all, but he
'Ni' and the 'Ka' forming
apparently
enterprise),
loved it. Not only did he learn his
called Kaju, with the
the name of the new
and established
the first distillery
new trade, he married and even considered
at Yoichi, on the island of Hokkaido,
staying in Scotland on a permanent
north - making it one of the very northernmost
support provided followed
basis. The
by his new wife, Rita, who
him to Japan from Scotland and his
Japanese distilleries.
well to the
It was an 'interesting'
choice, especially back then, as the new
dream of making great whisky drew him back
distillery was a long way from everything
to his homeland
was convenient.
in 1920. His return was not
always plain sailing, with one entity closing and at one stage being shoehorned
into another as
a brewer (a position from which he resigned),
Masataka believed,
that
however,
that this site was the closest to his experiences in Scotland and would produce the best local whisky. Here was to be found agricultural
he persisted, and his dreams were realised.
land that suited his purpose, peat and a
He eventually
good quality water supply. His first whisky was
made the first Japanese whisky.
Masataka was determined the highest calibre.
160 exploredrinks.com
to make whisky of
released in October
1940.
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
Masataka was far from finished. In 1963, he had the first Coffey stills to be employed
in
Japan imported
to
from Scotland,
imported
improve Nikka's blends. A few years later, their Kashiwa plant was completed Miyagikyo
and then the
distillery, followed
by the Tochigi
plant. Nikka also have plants at Nishinomiya, Hirosaki and Moji. Masataka passed away in 1979, at the age of 85, and is buried in Yoichi next to his beloved wife, Rita, who was at his side until she passed some years earlier. After his death, Nikka remained
in family hands for
a period before being purchased
by Asahi
Breweries. The distillery focuses on various styles of malt and has even been referenced offering similar characters as Ardbeg. whiskies provide an appealing encountered
as These
oiliness not
elsewhere. The use of peat is
also noticeable
here (as one would expect
as soon as any comparisons
with Ardbeg
are
drawn). They still use Masataka's original strain of yeast, which some believe was more likely to have been brewers' yeast from the Sapporo brewery. The stills here are coal-fired,
some
exploredrinks.com 161
of the only stills in the world which can make this claim. Yoichi is all about tradition respecting
The distillery,
on the other hand, has taken
a much more modern approach. intended
and
the legacy of Masataka Taketsuru.
Originally
to be one and half times the size of
Yoichi, it is now three times as large and one of the very few in Japan to work with both malt and grain, but even with its approach malt, it has adapted what is offered warehouse
162 exploredrinks.com
to
as it best sees fit to utilise
at its location.
experiments
In addition,
with different
the
uses
ISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
I
IJ/1 ,,
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~
of barrels, and indeed, styles of barrel. The
This, in an age where such a statement
results are evident in the more fruity, elegant
relied on by many drinkers keen to go with the
a position
styles produced.
older-is-better
worked hard to incorporate
established
The grain distillery was
in 1999, at which time their Coffey
stills were transferred The Miyagikyo
to Miyagikyo.
distillery
is located in the north
is
approach to their whisky, might
is Tadashi Sakuma, Nikka's master blender, he has held since 2012. He has
Coffey stills to their full advantage
fact, frees them to bottle their product
the charge with new products to realise that
when it is at its absolute optimum,
- such as Coffey Malt and Coffey Grain. He is
surely a
and led
also the man who led the move to NAS - no
good thing.
of the island of Honshu, near Sendai, built in
age statements.
a valley that is in an area that fresh clean air
In 1989, the company ventured
and water.
Scotland, purchasing
back to
the Ben Nevis distillery.
Sakuma has successfully walked the tightrope, with his two distilleries,
of traditional
Nikka made the notable decision to withdraw
The man currently at the helm and responsible
modernity
almost all age statements
for maintaining
hands, looks very exciting
from the bottles.
the use of the
seem a risk, but the team believe that this, in
the Taketsuru philosophy
and
and the future for Nikka, in his indeed.
exploredrinks.com 163
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
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Just 45 minutes north-west of Dublin and from under the shadows of the legendary Slane Castle sits the recently opened Slane Irish Whiskey Distillery and Visitor Centre.
The buildings date back to the
Slane Castle is also famously the
1750's and required significant
venue for an annual music festival
renovation to bring them up to
that dates back to the early S0's,
standard required for a working
hosting acts such as The Red Hot
distillery. Initially the brainchild of
Chilli Peppers, Robbie Williams,
Lord Henry Mount Charles and
The Rolling Stones and, of course,
his son, Alex Conynham, it was all
Ireland's very own U2.
made possible by the purchase in 2015 of Slane Whiskey by US
ADDRESS: N51, Slane Castle
company Brown Forman, makers
Demesne, Co. Meath, Ireland
of Jack Daniels. An investment of
T: +353 46 903 0600
approximately 71 million dollars
W: www.slaneirishwhiskey.com
(Australian) and Slane Irish Whiskey
OPENING HOURS:
Distillery was up and running
Monday-Sunday: 10am-5pm
followed by a launch across Ireland
TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING:
and now here in Australia.
One hour tour Adult €18.00 Seniors €16.20
164 exploredrinks.com
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A gregarious character at the heart of the Jameson Midleton Distillery, Brian Nation's enthusiasm for his job comes from meeting like-minded individuals who share his passion for the craft and skill that goes into creating an iconic range of whiskeys. "I love travelling around the world to promote and educate people about Jameson. I love getting the opportunity to bring the Jameson message to the people".
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Just as whiskey benefits from its chosen casks,
for achieving the highest IBD (Institute of
Distillery in Midleton.
Brian Nation was matured for 10 years under
Brewing and Distilling) exam results in the
me as Head Distiller - to ensure the quality of
the tutelage
world. As head distiller, Brian is responsible
the product from grain to glass." When asked
for maintaining
the quality of all new pot and
what he enjoys most about his role, Brian is
his mentor's shoes, Brian emerged as a highly-
grain distillates
produced
quick to mention, "it's the strong team ethic,
regarded distiller in his own right. Brian joined
monumental
Irish Distillers in 1997 after graduating
process from brewing to distillation
Crockett.
of former master distiller, Barry
Despite the daunting
an engineering
task of filling
with
degree. He oversaw various
in Midleton.
The
task of overseeing the production comes
That is very important
for
everyone is heading in the one direction."
As
a team player, Brian has been instrumental
in
with the fringe benefit of tasting the whiskey
expanding
the Midleton
Distillery in recent
on a daily basis, to ensure the correct balance
years, always bringing
until 2002, when he began to work on some
of flavours and unique pot still spiciness.
fore. He is a man grounded
of Jameson's most storied blends. In 2006,
"Jameson
driven by a passion to ensure that the whiskeys
projects in the environmental
department,
is a single distillery whiskey; it's a
he became the first Irish Distiller to receive
blend of a pot still whiskey and then a grain
of Midleton
the Worshipful
whiskey, both produced
in the world.
Company of Distillers award,
at the Jameson
fresh new ideas to the in tradition,
and
continue to be amongst the best
exploredrinks.com
- )'
165
I
-----------------There was a time when Irish whiskey,,,ruled th'e!Y"o rla. It has bJen t firougfi its ups and downs over the last cerft:uryor two) b ut if n9_ti 6} tne Mia letor.i Distilleries, who knows where ,if would be. These are th e '~~ tilleries wP.i icfi have carried Irish whiskey,6n their shoulders for a v~ry 1 ~99 t.im'e .'Tn ~re .,i? 1 support from newcom~rs, or relative newcomers, toda y;-but t hey wo~lc: nt, all, no doubt, acknowledge the debt they owe to the Old and the New .'···:y Midleton distilleries. We refer to Old and New but in reality, one followed the other in chronological terms. ' Located in Midleton, County Cork, the New is still Ireland's
The 1960ssaw a time of declining sales as well. In an
largest distillery and is responsible for a great many of the
attempt to stem the tide, in 1966,Irish Distillers Ltd, was
country's most famous whiskeys. Names like Jameson (the
founded by merging several separate distilleries, also
world's largest selling Irish whiskey), Redbreast, Yellow Spot,
including John Jameson & Son, John Powers & Son and the
Midleton itself, Writers Tears,Green Spot, Powers,The
Cork Distilleries Company. The decision was taken to close
lrish-maR;:.a·n·d-·even:glJJ,:"V :i..Q o9. dkt3a!Ja:n~d!.!b~e~e;.!:: r ======:::= ~ ;-;-;::-
:ex '.::::.mu:i g distilleries in Dublin and Cork and to consolidate proauct ioo This-woaldbe -deneat -a new,.speQilllf DLlilt
The Old Distillery (it is important to distinguish be\ween
distillery. The site chosen~ as next to the existing-~idleton
the Old and the New Midleton distilleries) was founded
Distillery (hence, 'Old' and 'New'). Dublin had been ruled
as far back as 1825, by James, Daniel and Jeremiah
out as there was simply not room to expand next to the
Murphy. The building was in use before that, as a woollen
existing distilleries.
~
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mill. The brothers paid thirty thousand pounds - a huge sum in those days - for the building and converted it to use as a distillery. It quickly increased in importance and
Further expansion took place in 1972when Bushmills, which ~
was the only other distillery operating in Ireland at that time, _,,-less than a decade later, it was employing more than 200----------joined the fold. It meant that, at that time, Irish Distillers was people and was producing 400,000 gallons. By_the late
in sole control of all whiskey production. A far cry from the
19th century, Irish whiskeys were in the _doldrums and
days of several hundred distilleries and 60 per cent of the
sales plummeted. The reasons, as they almost always
world market, enjoyed over a century earlier.
--------
are in such situationc3,we~
any and varied but most
notably, the_rise-in popularity of blended whiskies and
In July 1975,the Old Midleton Distillery produced its last
the Anglo-Irish trade wars hurt Irish production (scary
whiskey.A few days later, production began at the new
---
to think that more than a century later, lessons have not
operation. The Old Distillery had the world's largest pot still,
been learnt). While the Midleton Distillery was swept
with a capacity of31,618 gallons, as well as two more 10,000
along with the tide, they managed to do so much better !i.than most and remained in production at all times.
----------
gallon spirit stills and a Coffey still. The New Distillery had, at that time, three 75,000-litre pot stills and three column stills.
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The old distilleries? Old Midleton and Jameson's Bow Street Distillery have both reopened, not as working distilleries but as visitor centres. Powers John's Lane Distillery was not so fortunate, much of it demolished, though a small part of it avoided the bulldozers and now forms part of the National College of Art and Design. A number of multinational corporations showed
Irish single pot still whiskey from pot stills. Water, so
with a capacity of 80,000 litres. After running
strong interest in Irish Distillers Ltd and in 1988,
vital in production, has always been sourced from
through three pot stills, the spirit has a strength of
by way of a friendly takeover, Pernod Ricard took
the Dungourney River, once also its power supply
83 - 85% ABV But of course, this distillery produces
control. In 2005, Bushmills was sold to Diageo and
-the giant waterwheel is still on site. Midleton
a number of different whiskeys, each with their own
a decade later, Paddy went to Sazerac, although
uses brewer's yeast for fermentation, which takes
character. Hence, procedures are not all uniform,
production still takes place at the Midleton
approximately 60 hours, giving a wash with an
especially, in relation to cuts from head to tails. For
Distillery. In 2010, a further 200 million was tipped
alcohol content of 10% - 12% ABV Fermentation
grain's continuous distillation, Midleton has five old
in to update operations, allowing for an increase in
for grain whiskey distillation takes 90 - 100 hours,
column stills and six newer, larger column stills.
production to 64 million litres per annum.
with an alcohol content of 13% - 15%.
The Distillery works in two ways. Grain whiskey is
As mentioned, the Distillery uses triple pot still
and European oak casks. The team at the distillery
made in column stills and there is also traditional
distillation. There are now seven pot stills, each
believe that the casks should not be allowed to
Their whiskey is matured in a mix of American oak
168 exploredrinks.com
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS Every year, a new bottling is blended by the master
There followed a period of a decade where
distiller, who has his pick of the whiskeys in the
Redbreast was simply unavailable.
distillery's warehouses. The aim is "to produce the best whiskey possible". It means that every year,
Finally, in 1991, Redbreast was given the
the release will be different, and this makes them
proverbial make-over and it was relaunched as
irresistible to both aficionados and collectors.
a 12-Year-Old, matured in a mix of sherry and
Quantities are almost always less than 2,500 cases
bourbon casks. The new Redbreast was met with
per annum. Every bottle is numbered and signed
critical and popular acclaim.
by the master distiller and comes in a wooden presentation box. More recently, Midleton
In 2005, 'Redbreast 15' was released. Originally for
have also released a number of single pot still
the 50th Anniversary celebrations of their French
whiskeys. Examples include a 30-year old Pure Pot
distributor, 'La Maison du Whiskey', this non chill-
Still, distilled in 1969 and released in 1999 and a
filtered whiskey was an immediate hit and was
26-year-old Pure Pot Still, distilled in 1974, matured
named by Jim Murray as the Whisky Bible's 'Irish
in oloroso butts, and finished for one year in a
Whiskey of the Year'.
port pipe. It was released to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the Old Midleton Distillery.
2012 and another Redbreast hit the shelves, 'Redbreast 12 Cask Strength'. It is bottled direct
dry and so, even when transported from their various locations to the distillery, they travel as fully
As well as such famous whiskeys as Jameson's and
from the cask with no water added. This means
made, and not disassembled, casks. On arrival, the
many others, Midleton's Distillery also produces
that even though the Redbreast DNA is evident
sherry and port casks are filled immediately. The
another local favourite - Redbreast. Originally, it
in each bottle, as each cask will differ ever so
distillery can fill 70 to 80 casks simultaneously, while
was part of the Gilbeys' wine and spirits operation,
slightly in terms of alcohol strength, each release is
bourbon casks will be filled within one to three
with the first record of it appearing in 1912. It is
marginally different.
months. At this stage, everything is computer-
thought that this was actually a reference to the
controlled and monitored. On site, there are now
Gilbeys 'JJ Liqueur' Whiskey 12-Years-Old and that
forty warehouses, recently completed to expand
'redbreast' was a nickname for it, the Chairman of
oldest whiskey in the Redbreast range, 'Redbreast
the storage capacity.
Gilbeys a well-known ornithologist.
21 '. Named '21 ', it actually contains whiskeys up
Needless to say, an operation this size making
Redbreast gained some notoriety in the 1920's,
Leighton, sees the style as the epitome of the
so many different whiskeys, and the numerous
earning its own nickname of 'the priest's bottle'.
Redbreast sherry style and it is their flagship.
variations within them, make it impossible to fully
The 1920s were tough times in Ireland, political
cover all. If one had to pick just one, it is hard to go
and economic turmoil abounding. Few had the
A limited release in 2015 of just 2,000 bottles,
past the Midleton Very Rare.
means to enjoy a fine whiskey yet the Irish clergy
the Redbreast 'Mano a Lamh' is the only one of
The following year, 2013, saw the launch of the
to 25 years of age. Redbreast master blender, Billy
seemed to always have a bottle of Redbreast
their whiskeys to be matured exclusively in sherry
Before his retirement in 2013, master distiller Barry
available. The distributors liked to think of it as a
butts. It is now seen as very much a collectors'
Crocker, had worked at the distillery for 47 years,
case of 'spiritual and gastronomic enlightenment'.
item. But they continued the theme in 2016 with
37 of them as master distiller, after arriving as an
The average Irishman may not have been so
the 'Redbreast Lustau Sherry Finish' edition.
apprentice to his father. Much of the success of
charitable in his thoughts.
This bottling is initially matured in a mix of both
Irish Distillers Ltd, at the time of its creation by the
twelve years and then sees a final year in selected
and the Single Pot Still Whiskeys of Midleton,
merger, decided to implement some changes in
oloroso sherry butts from Bodega Lustau in Jerez,
beginning in 2011. Crocker was succeeded by
production and sales. Importantly, they decided
Spain. It has become a permanent addition to the
Brian Nation. To celebrate Cracker's career, and the
that the day of selling bulk whiskey, 'by the cask',
Redbreast range.
30th anniversary of Midleton Very Rare, a limited
to wholesalers and retailers, who would then
Jameson's can be attributed to his efforts and releases such as the Midleton Very Rare in 1984
bourbon and sherry casks for a period of nine to
release of just 177 bottles of Midleton Very Rare
bottle and sell it themselves, would be phased
30th Anniversary Pearl Edition was issued, with a
out. They were looking to increase exports
more exciting and innovative releases in the
higher strength, 53.1% ABV
and also to increase the number of brands in
years to come.
No doubt, lovers of Irish whiskey are anticipating
their portfolio and so required the whiskey for Midleton Very Rare is a non-age statement whiskey,
their own plans. Gilbeys however, managed to
blending pot still and grain whiskeys, and matured
persuade them to continue supplying their pure
in the grounds of the distillery. It offers a range
for between 12 and 20 years in American Oak
pot still whiskey for Redbreast until the closure
of Irish whiskey appreciation courses, over one
In 2013, an Irish Whiskey Academy was opened
barrels, previously used to house bourbon. The
of Bow Street Distillery in the summer of 1971.
to three days, and also training for aficionados,
early examples incorporated whiskey from the
The last bottling of Redbreast, under the Gilbey's
journalists and members of the trade. The
Old Distillery, as time was needed to mature the
banner, took place in 1985, and the following year,
distillery also houses the official historical archives
requisite whiskey from the New Distillery.
Gilbeys sold the brand name to Irish Distillers.
for the Irish Distillers.
exploredrinks.com 169
Jameson's Visitor Centre is one of the most popular attractions in Ireland, not only with tourists, but doubling as one of the coolest bars in a city - that's literally bursting with cool bars. You've just touched
down in Dublin. You've
of their premium whiskeys, get some guidance
never been there before and you know no
in blending
one. What do you do? Well, a drink seems
with you, learn the dark arts of cocktail mixing
a whiskey you can then take home
an obvious start but go one further. Why not
and even taste whiskey straight from a cask in
visit the source? Both Jameson's and Teeling
the warehouse.
distilleries
have visitors' centres for anyone
interested
in good Irish whiskey and they are
most definitely
must visits for any trip to the
Old Country.
An imposing
presence in Dublin for almost 240
years, what hasn't this distillery seen? History buffs could hardly wish for a more entrancing
series of their premium blends and explain
experience.
"ingredients,
The blending
masterclass, which
craft and different flavour notes"
is available seven days a week, takes 90
and deconstruct
doors to the Jameson Distillery Bow St back
minutes and is fully hosted with a tasting of
opportunity
in 1780. Today, the experience
premium whiskeys as well as the blending
John Jameson is famous for opening
the
is better than
ever. You can tour the distillery, enjoy a tasting
170 exploredrinks.com
exercise. Experts will take you through a
them. Then there is the
to blend your own.
ADDRESS: Bow St, Smithfield Village, Dublin 7
The next generation of Teeling family distillers are making their mark in the Liberties area of Dublin with the opening of the new Teeling Whiskey Distillery and Visitor Centre set to release its very own whiskey to the world this year The Tee ling Wh iskey Distillery was the first new d istill ery in Dublin for ove r a century, exhibiting the heritage of pot still whiskey. However, this is hardly the first Teeling family connection with the whiskey indu stry as Walter Teeling established a craft distillery in the Libertie s way back in 1782. And the Liberties is to where Teeling has returned. Tours are in English but private tours in various other languages can be arranged . For bookings, reservations@teelingwhiskey.com. The Tee ling Irish Wh iskey g ift store is the perfect place to conclude the tour . Exclusive Teeling Whiskey merchandise is available and there is the oppo rtunity for patrons t o fill their own bottles of whiskey from select ed casks. Then drop by The Bang Bang Bar, ope n seven days a week, or the Phoenix Cafe for a snack, a coffee or a whiskey. The Bang Bang Bar is named after an infamous Liberties character "Bang Bang", and offers the complete Teeling portfolio of whiskeys. They also offer spec ially created seasonal coc ktail s that wo rk perfect ly with th e po rtfo lio of w hiskeys.
ADDRESS: 13-17 Newmarket, Merchants Quay, Dublin 8 T: + 353-1-5310888
Tullamore D.E.W's origins date back to 1829 when the Tullamore distillery was founded in Tullamore, County Offaly, both the emotional and geographic heart of Ireland as it's claimed, founded by famed distiller, Michael Molloy. The location was well chosen because it was a rich agricultural and grain growing region, providing both the new barley and pure water essential to the creation of good whiskey. In 1887, following Molloy's death, the distillery passed into the hands of the Daly family with Captain Bernard Daly in charge of the business. Captain Daly left the routine running of the distillery to one of his colleagues, Daniel E. Williams, who would become the major influence on the expansion and development of the distillery. The 'D.E.W' in Tullamore D.E.W represents the initials of Daniel E. Williams. Williams brought electricity to Tullamore in 1893, had the town's first telephones installed and introduced motorised transport. He also ran a commercial empire throughout the Midlands including drinks businesses, importing tea, selling seed and grain, and a network of 26 general stores. But there were tough times for Irish whiskey - Prohibition in America and an economic war with Britain in the1930s didn't help the industry. After World War II, Desmond Williams, grandson of Daniel E. Williams, used modern marketing techniques and re-established Irish whiskey as a world leader. Tullamore D.E.W has in more recent times undergone something of a revitalisation with sophisticated packaging, a fresh new look and feel and a major refurbishment and build of
172 exploredrinks.com
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
the new distillery, bringing the whiskey home to Tullamore after more than 60 years. The new distillery opened in September 2014 and was the first distillery built on a 'greenfields' site in Ireland for over 100 years. The visitors centre had reopened to the public two years prior, situated in Tullamore town and attracting around 40,000 visitors per year. Today the Tullamore D.E.W product
range
includes Tullamore D.E.W original, a 10-yearold reserve and a 12-year-old special reserve (both triple distilled,
and matured in bourbon
and oloroso sherry casks), a unique 10-yearold single malt (matured in bourbon,
oloroso
sherry, port and Madeira casks) and the heritage blend. Tullamore
D.E.W is a unique blend of all three
types of Irish whiskey - pot still, malt and grain whiskey - as distinct from other Irish whiskeys which mostly contain just two of these components. More people are drinking Irish whiskey around the world with current consumption
growing at
a rate of 10 per cent a year. There is little doubt that with its rich history and distinctive character Tullamore D.E.W is well placed to continue as one of Ireland's most famous exports.
exploredrinks.com 173
For a whisky-fuelled adventure of epic proportions, follow the dots to these and many other thriving distilleries around the Apple Isle. WORDS FRED SIGGINS
'
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FEATURE
~F !'lf',,, --
"ONYOUR IDIYOUT_ rEMPTON,YOU CANALSO SWINGBY OLDI(EMP_. T,ON I : JI ISTILLERY(FORMERLYtf :-EDLANDS) ERE YOU CANINVESTIN YOUR ~ _ VERYO TWENTY-LITRE ~RREL OF TASMANIAN,. SINGLEMALT ISI(Y. JUST ,~, E PREPAREDFORA TWOYEAR IDIITBEFOREYOU CANDRINI( IT.'
------
Just a few years ago, if you wanted to make a pilgrimage
to the best whisky distilleries
in the world, you were in for a very long flight. But now you can tour the places where Australia's craft whisky movement
was born
and continues to thrive and innovate, for the
One of the first distilleries to use Australian
world, meaning every part of the process from
cost of a ticket to Tasmania.
Pinot Noir barrels to age single malt, Hellyer's
growing the grains to hand-labelling
Road takes a uniquely Aussie approach to
happens here.
With pristine air and water, as well as some of
whisky making. The single malts produced
the best grain-growing
are also some of most widely available and
land in the world, it's no
surprise that Tasmanian whisky is recognised
best value, with a scale of production
for its quality around the globe. Couple that
prominent
with a booming
operations.
hospitality and tourism industry,
and all around the island you'll find the tastiest things to eat or drink anywhere in Australia.
HELLYERS ROAD
the bottles
here
far more
than most of the state's small craft Here, you can take a guided tour to
The idea for a distillery came when Peter's rye crop produced
more than he needed to
feed the sheep. The solution was the first ever Tasmanian rye whisky, and it's some of
learn about the whisky making process and the
the best in the world. Belg rove is known for
history of the area, and even have the chance
sustainability, with the stills running on bio-
to dip your own bottle in wax-
diesel (made of leftover fryer oil from the
a truly special
Tasmanian souvenir.
local greasy spoon), and also for experimentation,
using Tasmanian peat to
BELGROVE
smoke the grains, or making spirits from ginger
Heading south from Burnie through the
terms like "artisanal"
beautiful town of Burnie. Situated on the north
central highlands (stop off for a hike up Cradle
Belgrave is the real deal.
coast, this small community sports a stunning
Mountain for breath-taking
beachfront,
through the middle of the state towards Hobart,
On your way out of Kempton, you can also
you'll go right past Belgrave Distillery near
swing by Old Kempton Distillery (formerly
Beginning in the north of the state (you can fly
beer. And while a lot of distilleries throw around
into Launceston or take the Spirit of Tasmania ferry from Melbourne),
head west towards the
and grassland so lush it'd keep the
hungriest of cows happy. Which brings us to
and "small batch",
views), and on down
Hellyers Road Distillery. Founded by a group of
Kempton. The brainchild of farmer, engineer,
Redlands) where you can invest in your very
dairy farmers in 1997, Hellyers Road is one of
and sculptor and all around good bloke
own twenty-litre
Australia's longest running whisky distilleries,
Peter Bignell, Belgrave is one of the only
whisky. Just be prepared for a two-year wait
and a founding
genuinely grain-to-glass
before you can drink it.
member of the Tassie scene.
distilleries in the
barrel of Tasmanian single malt
exploredrinks.com 175
SHENE ESTATE South of Kempton on the road to Hobart stands Shene Estate & Distillery. This collection of gorgeous sandstone buildings is 199 years old and was built as the ostentatious
country
residence of early colonialist Gamaliel Butler. Painstakingly restored by custodians and owners the Kernke family, the estate has only been opened to outside visitors within the last few years, and now includes a craft distillery within the grounds. As well as a lovely gin, Shene produces a malt whisky that has been triple-distilled
on
Tasmania's largest copper pot still. These production
methods are inspired by the Irish
style and result in a lighter, more refined spirit. Swing by for a tour of the stunning grounds while sipping on one of these award-winning spirits, and you might even see a polo game in action. It's the closest thing you'll get to the grand distilleries of Scotland here in Australia.
LARK Once you hit Hobart, leave the car and nip
archaic law that had banned the distillation
down to the Lark Cellar Door for a nip of
spirits in Tasmania all the way back in 1838.
of
won, paving the way for Lark Distillery to open
Many people don't realise there was a thriving
Australian style of single malt that's widely
Tasmania's liquid gold. This cosy spot right on the docks offers a staggering
array of
Lucky for us, Bill fought the law, and whisky in 1992. He also came up with a uniquely
Tasmanian whiskies to try, as well as local beers
distilling industry in Hobart in the 1830s, as the
imitated by other distillers; using small barrels
and bottles of Lark for sale. Afterwards, you
colonists made use of the excellent barley and
to impart intense flavours in a short period of
can continue exploring the culinary and cultural
clean mountain water to produce local hooch.
time and making use of casks from Australia's
delights of Tasmania's capital.
But in 1838 Governor Franklin decided he didn't
longstanding
fortified wine industry.
like the effects these local spirits were having Founder of Lark Distillery, Bill Lark is the man
on the colony, so he banned their production
The distillery itself, located close to Hobart in
who, back in the early 1990s, had a vision for
outright.
the Coal River Valley, is currently closed for tours
Tasmanian single malt. But to get his product
over 150 years.
off the ground, he had to contend with an
176 exploredrinks.com
It's a prohibition
that would last for
due to construction for the re-opening
work, but keep an eye out soon.
SULLIVANS COVE Finally, on your way to fly home, stop in at Sullivans Cove Distillery. Located in an industrial park near Hobart airport, this tin shed surrounded
by chain-link fence isn't much to
look at. But inside, the crew here are making the whisky that put Tassie on the map. Established in 1994, Sullivans Cove has had plenty of time to perfect their single malts. Their spirits are matured for plenty of time too, producing
on average the oldest whiskies in
Australia by far. Being allowed to age slowly in full-sized casks for up to eighteen years (and counting), might be one of the reasons Sullivans Cove is so well-regarded home and internationally,
both at
consistently beating
out whiskies from Scotland, Japan and the rest of the world at international
competitions.
The
big one came in 2014 when their French Oak Single Cask won "World's Best Single Malt" at the World Whiskies Awards. This year, they've backed it up with their American Oak Single
SPRING BAY
To get a tour, you'll have to give them a
Cask winning "World's Best Single Cask Single
bell ahead of time, but with a bit of warning,
Malt". Not bad for a tin shed near the airport.
If your trip includes the spectacular East Coast
they'd love to show you around. While Tassie
of Tasmania, near Orford, you'll find Spring Bay
whisky has become big business in recent
Sullivans Cove is open seven days for tastings
Distillery. One of newest distilleries in Tassie,
years, tiny, family-run operations
and tours, and the passionate staff are full
Spring Bay is run by a husband and wife team
Bay are still an essential part of the industry's
of great facts and stories. This is also one of
producing
character. And considering
the only places you're able to leave with a
lovely malt whiskies on a single
like Spring
how small they
1,200-litre copper pot still. Located only 500
are, you're unlikely to get a taste of this whisky
metres off the beach, this is a genuinely coastal
anywhere else.
distillery and the epitome of local craft.
bottle of one of the world's most sought-after single malts, produced
right here in Tasmania,
Australia's home for world-class whisky.
exploredrinks.com 177
FEATURE
,__,,...
Tasmania - the _vv,hit k/ '.islahd ofA ~stralia! We are so incredibly lucky to be a part of such fast-growin·g arid exciti~g industry where the people are .. - passionate, and .the products are of exceptional quality. .~-: .,_ ...~~:,_f~~-- ,-:~r-·: ~~\-~~,-
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WORDS JA~E SAWFO~D, NEE OVEREEM
I've been involved in the Tasmanian whisky
The pu r.e :rasmani~ ~ water, higli- quality, rich
the Tasmanian Whisky Producers Association
industry for over 10_y,:,ar~f;,ly¼ ·t l-ier, Casey -,
oily barley, rye, wheat, oats and corn, and ths=
(TWPA). This group now boasts members from
Overeem, founde ·r cif Overeem DTstill.ery,
cool climate are the perfect recipe for -worJd-
over 20 distilleries, whom all value and thrive on
_was friends with whisky pioneer BilLLark,
class spirits. The success of the original four
the camaraderie from which the association was
who had the laws changed in 1992 so that
distilleries cannot be ignored either, as it has
initially built. Knowledge
small distilleries could produce whisky in lovt ·
inspired and instilled confidence
distillery doors are always open.
volumes. My Dad founded Overeem in 2007,
that 10 years ago didn't exist. Recently at
which was the 'fourth' operating
.-.-· .,
-:~-,s....,~-~--
.
in an industry
is freely shared, and
the Spring Bay distillery launch, I witnessed
The last few years especially have also seen
Tasmania - those before us were Lark, Sullivan's
Cameron Brett proclaim he was merely,
an enormous resurgence in the consumption
Cove and Hellyers Road.
"standing
of whisky, with a particular appreciation
distillery in
on the shoulders of giants" - an
indication of the level of respect held for the ,Tasmania today has Australia's largest
dedication
c~
and Dad.
entration of whisky distilleries, boasting
and vision of the likes of Bill
quality, hand-crafted
of
whiskies and the stories
behind them. We have additionally shift in the demographic
seen a
buying and drinking
leries across the state. It's this ~, concentration, as well as the quality now being
Another significant influence is the producers
generation,
produced ;f h\ t's seeing the island state be
themselves. The strong relationships formed
excited about.
compared to th ~>~ med Isle of Islay in the
between my father, Bill Lark (Lark Distillery),
spiritual home cif s,. ingle malt, Scotland. To
Patrick Macguire (Sullivan's Cove) and Mark
Couple all of this with a state that's lauded
many, Tasmania is now being labelled as the
Littler (Hellyers Road) during the birth of the
for its fresh produce, artisan products, clean,
'Whisky Isle of Australia'.
Tasmanian whisky industry has had a lasting
green, picturesque surrounds and the following
effect. What began as a few cleansing ales
booming tourism industry, and Tasmania really
"Why Tasmania?" You may ask. There are many
at the pub each month to discuss distilling
is the perfect place to produce this delicious
reasons why this small island state has become
techniques,
liquid gold.
the epicentre of whisky production
future of the industry, led to the creation of
37 d~
"'··,
in Australia.
the spirit, with a significant rise in the younger
results, ideas and the overall
particularly women, which I'm very
exploredrinks.com 179
AWARDS & DEMAND Tasmanian whisky has won many highlyacclaimed national and international
awards
within its brief history, affording the state world recognition.
It was in 2014 when Sullivan's Cove
Single Malt won 'Best Whisky in the World' in the World Whiskies Awards, that first made the world take notice of what we are producing
here
in Tasmania. Subsequently, one of the most significant challenges for the Tasmanian distilleries at present is meeting the increasing demand. Whisky takes time to mature and, unfortunately,
Sullivan's Cove, McHenry's, Nant, and Old
you can't wake up one day and decide, "Let's
Kempton all have product available, and are
double production
suitable for larger groups. However, if you're
tomorrow."
today and meet the demand
If onlyl
organised and prefer a more intimate and informal experience, I'd recommend
Belgrave,
I'm excited to see how the industry will
Spring Bay or Fanny's Bay, who also have stock
evolve over the coming years, as many new
available. But be sure to book ahead, as these
distilleries are opening up around the country,
are only accessible by appointment.
including my own I Together with my husband Mark, we founded Sawford Distillery Pty. Ltd.
However, I'd definitely recommend
in 2016, commenced
any of the other new distilleries if you have the
production
in 2017 and
visiting
are due to release our small-cask range of S&O
chancel Many are producing
Single Malt Whisky in early 2020. Exciting times
spirits while they patiently wait for their single
ahead indeedl
malt to mature.
VISITATION
fantastic white
If you're flying into Hobart International Airport, you'll need at least 3-4 days to visit the
The beauty of the industry in Tasmania is the
distilleries in the south. Allocate more time if
accessibility to the public that the majority of
you can, as a dram is often accompanied
the distilleries offer. From the whisky enthusiast
story, and a story is usually followed by another
to the entry level novice, getting up-close
dram I A similar time allowance is required in the
by a
and personal with the makers themselves in
north of the state as although there are fewer
the distilleries and bond rooms and sampling
distilleries, there is more ground to cover.
product direct from the cask, is a reality. Considering
the unique story, personalities
and
the warm welcome that each distillery offers, I'd recommend
visiting as many as you can if you're
exploring the island
I
If, like many visitors, you assume you can drive around our beautiful state in only a weekend, and you find yourself short on time, there are some fantastic bars and retailers where you'll find most, if not all, of these prized
If you're mainly planning to visit with the
Tasmanian products. Here is the list of my
intention to taste and purchase some delicious
favourite supporters:
single malt, then Lark, Overeem, Shene Estate,
180 exploredrinks.com
I am so incredibly fortunate to inherit an opportunity
such as this - the chance to
produce a product that is ideally suited to the island to which I belong, alongside a group of people that share similar values and passions. All of it originating
from the founders before
us. The industry is still in its infancy, and it is said that the Scots spill more than we make each year. I remember an analogy from Craig Johnstone (Scottish ex-Head Distiller at Lark Hobart Bars: The Glass House, Society
Tasmanian 'Independent
Bottlers' are also
Salamanca, Story Bar, IXL Long Bar, Lark Bar,
kicking some big goals for the industry
Gold Bar, Salamanca Whisky Bar, Ettie's Piano
Heartwood,
Bar, Mona Void Bar, The Den and a bar my
the leading independent
husband and I recently opened, Robbie Browns.
Tim Duckett, from Heartwood
1
Dark Valley and Spirit Thief are bottlers in Tasmania. Malt Whisky, has
Distillery) stating the privilege he felt to be attending
a dinner that sat the four founders of
the Tasmanian Whisky industry, and comparing that evening to how it would have looked in Scotland, many centuries ago, seated with the
been known to invite people into his private
equivalent company. Imagine the generations
Launceston Bars: Saint Johns, Kingsway, Spirit
office and bond store and welcome them with a
to come that hear of tall stories of grandparents
Bar and Henry's Bar.
taste of his award-winning,
that visited distilleries and met figures such as
Best Retailers: Destination
Cellars, 9/11,
cask strength, heart-
starters. Be sure to snap up one of his elusive
Bill Lark, Patrick Maguire, Casey Overeem and
bottles if you get the chance. Or swing by Gold
those that carry their legacies .. it's an exciting time to be in whisky.
Drink Co., Cool Wines, Lark Cellar Door, Hop
Bar and visit Ian, co-founder
Vine and Still, Tasmanian House of Whisky,
sure he might have a bottle, or two stashed
of Spirit Thief, I'm
Robbie Browns.
behind the bar for that particular guest.
In good spirits, Jane Sawford.
exploredrinks.com 181
TASMANIAN DISTILLERIES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
7K Distillery Adam's Distillery Bakehouse Distillery Belgrove Distillery Corra Linn Distillery Cradle Mountain Distillery Darby Norris Distillery Deviant Distillery Devils Distillery Fanny's Bay Distillery Flinders Island Distillery Hartshorn Distillery Hellfire Bluff Distillery Hellyers Road Distillery Iron House Brewery & Distillery Killara Distillery Knock Lofty Lark Distillery Launceston Distillery Lawrenny Estate Distillery McHenry Distillery Nant Distillery Nonesuch Distillery Old Kempton Distillery Overeem Distillery Sawford Distillery Shene Estate Distillery Southern Wild Distillery Spring Bay Distillery Sullivans Cove Distillery Taylor & Smith Distilling Co. White Label Distillery Willie Smith & Sons
Brighton Perth Dover Kempton Relbia Tamar Valley Tamar Valley Sandy Bay Moonah Fanny's Bay Flinders Island Birchs Bay Boomer Bay Burnie lronhouse Point Goodwood West Hobart Hobart Launceston Duse Port Arthur Bothwell Dodges Ferry Kempton Hobart Kingston Pontville Devonport Spring Beach Cambridge Moonah Huntingfield Grove
lkdistillery.com adamsdistillery. com.au farsouthtasmania.comlfood-serviceslbakehouse-distillery belgrovedistillery.com.au corralinndistillery.com.au tasmanianwhisky.com.au darbynorrisdistillery.com.au deviantdistillery.com devilsdistillery.com.au fannysbaydistillery.com.au flindersislanddistillery.com.au grandvewe.com.aulhartshorn-distillery hellfirebluff.com.au hellyersroaddistillery.com.au ironhouse.com.au killaradistillery. com knocklofty. com.au larkdistillery.com.au launcestondistillery.com.au lawrenny.com mchenrydistillery.com.au nant.com.au nonesuchdistillery.com.au oldkemptondistillery.com.au overeemwhisky.com sawforddistillery@gmail.com shene.com.au southernwilddistillery. com springbaydistillery.com.au sullivanscove.com ben@taylorandsmith.com. au whitelabeldistillery.com.au williesmiths.com.au
FEATURE
• Flinders Island FlindersIsland
@ 1
Bass Strait Fannys Bay Fanny'sBay
Hellyers Road Southern Wild
@
Burnie
Devonport
@ Darby Norris , Tamar Valley Cradle Mountain 6 19 ~~c~ceSt on TamarValley 5 C orra L"mn Adam's 2 Relbia Perth
@ @ @
0
Lark Hobart
Killara Goodwood
Devils Moonah
@) Taylor & Smith @ Knock Lofty Moonah
©
@
TASMAN
Overeem Hobart
Nant @ Brothwe/1
22
~
Belgrove ~
Lawrenny (:;:\
Kempton
24
Duse ~
Old Kempton '29' Sprin2 Bay
Kempton
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Spr,ngBeac'fi"
Shene Estate 7K GJ~t ontviSullivans Cove
WestHobart
Deviant SandyBay
White Label Huntingfield
HOBA-;T ~@@ f,;;;;\ ~
- sm1t • h & sons W I-11 le
SOUTHERN
Bluff L:!J - ~nesuch!;!;!}!!,re ~
~·@2
Bakehouse Dover
13'
DodgesFerry
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\5/ Kingston Sawford 21 McHenry Hartshor PortArthur Birch'sBay
kV
OCEAN © 2018 Tasmanian Whisky Producers Association. All rights reserved.
S EA
LAWRENNY ESTATE DISTILLERY Lawrenny Estate is a 400-acre property located in Tasmania's Central Highlands, just over an hour's picturesque
drive through the Derwent
Valley, northwest of Hobart. Lawrenny Estate Distilling has been established as one of only a very few 'paddock to bottle' estate single malt whiskies in the world. The barley grains are grown and harvested from the Lawrenny fields, then malted on site before being mashed, fermented
and distilled using the pure waters
that flow through the estate. The first release of Lawrenny Whisky is expected A range of award-winning
in 2020.
Lawrenny Gin
and Vodka products are available now across Australia.
6485 Lyell Highway, Ouse, TAS 7140 T: +61 438 966 020 W: www.lawrenny.com Open to Visitors: Mon-Sun: 1 0am-3pm, Cellar Door Sales - Everyday: 11 am-3pm MUST TRY WHISKY: Lawrenny Van Diemen's Gin
184 exploredrinks.com
"Distilling to me is an amazing platform on which to tell a story and in the product itself, there is the power to create more stories as it reaches people. I want the products I make to be a reflection of not only the environment in which they're made, but the people who are a part of making it. It should invoke a feeling or an experience and make you treat it like something special and not just another liquid in a glass." Joe Dinsmoor, Head Distiller
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
BELGROVE DISTILLERY
"I enjoy being aeative and travelling the world, carving sand and ice sculptures. I carry that creatiz'if:y into lf'hisky ,naking by prodnring unique flavoztrs. I do things a little differently. " __,,,
In January 2010, Peter Bignell found he had a surplus of rye grain he had ju st harvested . Over the next 12 month s, he hand-built a small w hisky dist illery in the o ld horse stables o n his farm, Belgr ave . The vario us w hiskies are made w ith grain s, rye, oats, wheat, spelt and barley, that are grown at Belgrave, making them 'paddock to bottle' or 'estate whi skies'. Every process, from malting t o barrel ageing is aimed at maximi sing the be st flavo urs, not alcohol yield. Wo rld-ren ow ned Jim Murray's Whi sky Bible has awarded four Liqu id Gold award s t o Belgr ave w hiskies in the last three years.
3121 Midland Hwy Kempton TAS 7030 T: +61 409 144 560 W : belgrovedistillery.com.au Open to Visitors: By Appointment MUST TRY WHISKY: Rye Whi sky 100% Rye
DRINKS TASMANIA TOURS "After taking thousands of visitors myself t o Tasmanian distilleries over the past few years and watching the g rowth and expansion of the indu stry, I realised we would need t o bu ild a team of sto ryteller s who co uld tell the tale of Tasmanian whisky fr om the inside out . By wo rking closely w ith the indu str y every week, we now have a team of six passionate indi vidual s who have bec ome industr y spe cialist to ur gu id es, ready t o share their wealth of knowledge about Tasmanian whi sky with our guests. Come t o ur with us." Brett Steel, CEO/ Direct o r and Guide.
TASMANIAN TASMANIAN WHISKY TOURS www.drinktasmania.com.au Public and private tours every week from Hobart . Check the website for details. M : 0475000120.
"Brett has a passion and an in-depth understanding of our spirits and the distilleries like no other. His tours are as much a part of the industry as the distilleries themselves." Bill Lark , Godfather of Tasmanian whisky . exploredrink s.com 185
HOBART --i.-----WHISKY
ZÂľ.,.-.~
/~
.-.,-.
c1Ka.lt
DEVIL'S DISTILLERY
Putting down the first whisky casks in 2015, initially filling small barre ls fro m the famous
Devil' s Distillery is an unobtrusiv e, mode rn
Hill rock Estate Distillery in An cram, New York
craft distillery housed in a 1951 building, wh ich
State, Devil's Distillery is prepa ring to launch
houses a gra in grist mill, steeping tanks, a 1,200
their first release in Au gust 2018.
litr e mash-tun and doub le-skinned tem pe rature regulated fermenters.
1 Gormanston Road, Moonah, TAS 7009 T: (03) 61651116
W hisky disti llati on is handled with an 1,800 litre
W : www.devilsdistillery .com.au
locally made copp er pot still, and a 380 litre
Open to Visitors: By Appointment
co lumn reflux still creates our neutral , or vapo ur infused botan ically flavoured sp irits.
186 exp lo redrinks.com
MUST TRY WHISKY: Hoba rt Whisky
"Our grain growing climat e and water gives us the means, our motive is to excel and the alcohol excise offers us the opportunity to work for the Government!"
HELLYERS ROAD DISTILLERY
\' 1â&#x20AC;˘. ,
The concept of Hellyers Road Distillery was formed in a modest Burnie boardroom back in 1994. The
\
\
..., ..
distillery founders, a weathered but wily bunch of local dairy farmers charged with steering local milk cooperative - Betta Milk, decided single malt whisky production might be a worthy adjunct to their flourishing milk operation. With the blessing of their fellow shareholders, they duly built the southern hemisphere's largest boutique distillery, nestled snugly between the turbulent waters of Bass Strait and the rugged wilderness of the world acclaimed Cradle Mountain region. Armed with some of the purest water, freshest air and best ingredients found anywhere, they began crafting award-winning whiskies that are now enjoyed on every continent in the world.
153 Old Surrey Road, Burnie TAS T: +61 3 6433 0439 W: hellyersroaddistillery.com.au Open to Visitors: Mon-Sun: 10:30am-4:30pm (Except public holidays) MUST TRY WHISKY: Slightly Peated after
"We aim to not only create worldclass whiskies but crea tea world-class ,, whisky business Mark Littler
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187
CORRA LINN DISTILLERY
whisky is then stored in oak barrels sourced
Corra Linn Distillery is a progressive enterprise
during the ageing process.
internationally,
that reinforces the flavours
that produces unique whiskies. The distillery has a hybrid pot still, and the still house has all the equipment
for brewing including a grist-
93 Correa Drive, Relbia TAS 7258 Phone: +61 418135150
mill, mash tuns and fermenters. A separate
W: www.corralinndistillery.com.au
bond store with a bottling
Open to Visitors: By Appointment
room is also housed
on-site. The whisky produced
is a result of
the finest Tasmanian ingredients,
delicately
MUST TRY WHISKY: Projected October
distilled using locally grown barley, pristine
release. Currently in port and
water and yeast. These are only some of the
sherry casks.
elements combined
in the process of particular
methods to produce a distinctive taste. The
188 exploredrinks.com
Corra Linn Distillery presents a spirit that embodies Tasmania's clean air, unspoilt environment and gastronomic excellence, in a whisky that is sure to provide a memorable experience.
"This is, by far, the best representation of the Tasmanian single malt whisky industry I have seen anywhere." Bill Lark , November 2014
BRUNY ISLAND HOUSE OF WHISKY Bruny Island House of Whisky holds a spectacular collection of purely Tasmanian
360 Lennon Rd Bruny Island TAS 7150
single malt whiskies, all for tasting - a true
T: +61 3 6260 6344
whisky experience. With currently 80 different
W: tasmanianhouseofwhisky.com.au
expressions of Tasmanian single malts to
Open to Visitors:
taste, and specialising in Tasmania's limited,
Mon-Sun: 9:45am-5:45 pm (summer)
rare and collectors releases, this is the whisky
11 am-5:30 pm (winter)
connoisseurs dream
I
MUST TRY WHISKY: Trappers Hut Single Cask Home to Trappers Hut Single Cask release
LD 601
KILLARA DISTILLERY Kil Iara Distillery is the first Australian distillery to be owned and operated by a second generation Australian distiller and a female
I
Started in 2016 by Kristy Booth-Lark, who has over 20 years' experience in the industry, the
"It's great to be a second generation distiller carrying on the traditions of my parents. Like them, I'm really passionate about being hands-on, crafting my whisky."
distillery is in Hobart and will be launching single malt whisky in late 2018. Celebrating the differences between each barrel, Kil Iara Distillery will be bottling each cask individually and each bottle will be numbered. Other spirits produced by Kil Iara include brandy, Apothecary Gin, Apothecary Gin - Triple Juniper, Tasmanian Vodka and Eau de Vie.
40 Negara Cres. Goodwood TAS 7010 T: +61 405 090 203 W: killaradistillery.com Open to Visitors: By appointment MUST TRY WHISKY: Kil Iara Distillery Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky exploredrinks.com
189
"Whisky has a particular way of warming you from the inside... that makes it unique. I think that's why it's so easy to connect with." Alex Rowles, Overeem Head Distiller
OVEREEM DISTILLERY From the moment founder Casey Overeem made a promise to his Scottish counterparts to never compromise
in the creation of a
Tasmanian world class whisky, he dedicated himself to the pursuit of excellence. Eleven years later, Overeem emerged: a refined whisky of grace and style. A New World whisky crafted to rival the Old World. Every expression is single cask and handcrafted, ensuring that every bottling
is unique. Every
time you enjoy a glass of Overeem Single Malt Whisky you are not only savouring one of a kind; you are experiencing
a one of a
kind piece of Tasmania.
14 Davey St, TAS 7000 T: +61 3 6231 9088 W: overeemwhisky.com Open to Visitors: By Appointment MUST TRY WHISKY: Overeem Port Cask 43%
190 exploredrinks.com
â&#x20AC;˘ "JEliis'R YJaoesn't r .ally become iyliisliy_U]Jtil ~\: th<J:f .~Qili:i~p_gpp. ~ and someone pours -it-i!JctO a glass and.enj6js it. It's an e~p<} J;ience, .and I think that underpins why we do wha(we -do." Chris Thomson, Lark Head Distiller
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"Our u:hisliy is produced and matured on the historic Nant Estate. l ltilising locally sourced barley and water, our unique climate and location, we produce a truly special Ta.snwnian highland whisky." Jack Sellers, Nant Head Distiller
NANT DISTILLING COMPANY The Nant Distillery, loc ated in Both well in the Central High lands of Tasmania, produ ces a dis cret e range of fine single malt whiski es. The distillery is ho used o n the historic Nant Estate, and its fine single malt whiskies are made using water fr om the River Clyde, w hich find s its source in snowme lt fro m Tasmania 's High land lakes. Th e Nant 1992 beca me a histo ry-de finin g mo me nt. Bill's
Distiller y embod ies the rich histo ry and the
heart, passion, and adven t urous spirit sparked
romance of the histo ric estate and coup les
not on ly a d ist illery, but an entir e indus t ry,
it with a modern and comfo rtable distillery
and it's thi s spirit that continu es t o d rive Lark
experien ce, provid ing the perfect backdr op
Distill e ry t o this day.
to create except io nal single malt whiskie s.
14 Davey Street, Hobart, TAS 7000
254 Nant Lane, Bothwell, TAS 7000
T: +61 3 6231 9088
T: +6136111
6110
,
W : larkdistillery.com Open to Visitors:
Open to Visitors:
Sun-Thu: 10 :30am-7:00pm
Mon-Sun : 1 0am-3pm
Fri & Sat: 10:30am-11 :00pm
Wed : Closed
MUST TRY WHISKY: Lark Classic Cask 43 pe r
MUST TRY WHISKY: Nant Single Malt
ce nt
Whi sky Po rt Cask 43 per cent
exploredrink s.co m 191
NONESUCH DISTILLERY Nonesuch is a family owned and operated distillery where Rex and his son (and co-distiller) Chris are committed
to creating a whisky that
is unique and memorable.
Their Single Malts
"Making g reat .whisky on this amazin g is'land is what makes •us want to jum b ut of 6" <;1 ; each day_." ·~·._-:-·.__.,.
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are due for release in late 2018 as single cask expressions.
But as they believe flavours
from grains including wheat, rye and corn are overlooked, Whisky.
they have created Nonesuch Grain
Rex started out as a Gin distiller so
balancing flavours is his passion and working with different grains to produce this whisky appealed greatly. Chris brings it all together with "tweaks"
in distillation
and insightful cask
selection.
491 Arthur Highway, Forcett, TAS 7173 T: +61 408 616 442 W: nonesuchdistillery.com.au Open to Visitors: By Appointment
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192 exploredrinks.com
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OLD KEMPTON DISTILLERY
releases include Small Batch Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky (matured in 20 and 100 litre Pinot
Old Kempton Distillery is located in historic
noir, sherry or port casks) and Cask Strength
Dysart House, Kempton, 45 minutes from
Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky'. Upcoming
Hobart on the road to Launceston. The
special releases include a stringy bark barrel,
magnificent 32-room Georgian coaching inn,
red gum barrel, and botrytis cask maturation.
with a 22 horse convict brick stable, was built in the 1840s by William Henry Ellis. Ellis, a freed
In addition to distillery tours and a cafe, Old
convict, was sentenced to transportation to
Kempton Distillery offers three-day distillery
Tasmania for embezzlement. While found guilty
schools and 20 litre private barrel sales.
of embezzling six shillings, Ellis was alleged to have embezzled the far greater sum of 7000
26 Main St, Kempton TAS 7030
pounds. The money was never recovered;
T: +61 3 62 593 058
some wonder whether it was used to build
W: www.oldkemptondistillery.com.au
Dysart House ..
Open to Visitors: Mon-Sun: 10am-4pm (Closed on public holidays)
The Distillery's 93rd barrel won best Australian small cask single malt whisky at the World
MUST TRY WHISKY: Old Kempton Distillery-
Whisky Awards in London in 2018. Regular
Small Cask Release (Port cask)
¡¡~ "Altho~ h I have lived in Scotland for most of my life, it was only once I visited Tasmania that I discovered my passion for whisky. The quality being produced here really excites me." Robbie Gilligan exploredrinks.com
193
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LAUNCESTON DISTILLERY Launceston Distillery launched its first whisky in July 2018. Located in the heart of Tasmania at Launceston Airport's historic Hangar 17, we produce hand-crafted
single malt whisky. From grain to bottle
everything happens under the one roof. Major equipment made; the brewing equipment
is Tasmanian
was inspired by the old Boags
brewhouse, but our beautiful copper pot stills are the centrepiece. 1950s, Hangar 17 was home to Ansett-ANA
In the
when there was adventure
associated with flying and nostalgia around a fine glass of whisky. Today,
leaving Launceston February 1954
the Hangar provides the perfect home for a boutique whisky distillery.
CREDIT: State Archives Tasma Hangar 17, 287 Evandale Road, Western Junction TAS 7212 T: (03) 6391 9140 W: launcestondistillery.com.au Open to Visitors: By Appointment MUST TRY WHISKY: Single Malt, Apera cask matured (French Oak, Australian style sherry
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194 exploredrinks.com
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We ~n1oysharing a whisky and w~' proudof the distillery we've built in the Hangar. After years of effort and plenty of local support, we're excited to release whisky under the ..~ aunceston label" Chris Condon
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
SULLIVANS COVE DISTILLERY Located an easy 20-minute drive from Hobart city (or 10min from Hobart Airport), Sullivans Cove Distillery produces Australia's most awarded Single Malt Whisky. Having twice won "World's Best" titles for their whiskies, Sullivans Cove is the distillery that put Tasmania, and Australia on the world whisky map. Sullivans Cove makes rustic, full-flavoured single malt whiskies from 100% Tasmanian barley, which are on average the oldest whiskies being produced in Australia. 1/10 Lamb Place, Cambridge TAS 7170
T: +61 (03) 6248 5399 W: sullivanscove.com Open to Visitors: Mon-Sun: 1 0am-3pm MUST TRY WHISKY: American Oak Single Cask Single Malt Whisky
MCHENRY DISTILLERY Australia's southern-most
whisky distillery sits at
the base of Mount Arthur. Five natural springs provide all the water for the Distillery and this water becomes the heart of the developing
SINGLE MALT WH IS KY
spirit. The
cool moist maritime climate is ideal for ageing and
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this highly sought after Australian Single
Malt Whisky.
229 Radnor Road, Port Arthur 7182 T: +61 3 6250 2533 W: mchenrydistillery.com.au MUST TRY WHISKY: McHenry Single Malt Whisky
SAWFORD DISTILLERY Located in the picturesque seaside suburb of Kingston, Sawford Distillery was born from union and a family legacy producing
exceptional
Single Malt Whisky
in the Island State. Focusing on a balanced, consistent and rich single malt spirit, Sawford commenced production
in 2017 maturing in both French
Oak ex - Australian fortified wine casks and American Oak ex - bourbon casks. Founders, Mark and Jane Sawford (nee Overeem) share a passion and knowledge for a spirit that's captured the fascination of their family for decades, resulting in the anticipation surrounding
their first release - predicted to be
available sometime
in 2022.
Patriarch Drive, Kingston T: +61 418 399 077 W: www.sawforddistillery.com Open to Visitors: By Appointment MUST TRY WHISKY: to be released in 2022
196 exploredrinks.com
"Whisky is a paradox. Beautifully simple, yet incredibly complex. My motivation to create such a spirit comes simply from my love of drinking it" Mark Sawford, Head Distiller
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WHITE LABEL DISTILLERY
tuns. The distillery houses 1800L wash stills and S00L spirit stills. The locally hand-crafted
White Label Distillery is a game-changer
all-copper pot stills were selected in this
in the Tasmanian whisky industry
capacity as this size has proven to produce the
1
Built in
2018, White Label is a contract brewing and
premium whisky Tasmania is renowned
distilling company located in Huntingfield,
for. The secured, concrete bond stores can
Tasmania. The company contract brews malt
house thousands of barrels in an environment
whisky wash and distils new-make spirit for
where the seasonal temperature
clients, while also offering the opportunity
consistent maturation.
is ideal for
Opportunities
to hand-select premium casks for storage and maturation of their very own Single Malt
tailored to suit various
businesses With a highly-skilled
team behind them,
White Label provides a huge opportunity
Whisky brand.
White Label provides a range of Client
for
Patriarch Drive, Huntingfield TAS
customers to access Tasmanian Whisky and
T: +61 418 399 077
The brewery houses 16 x 4,000L stainless
create their own brand, without setting up their
W: whitelabeldistillery.com.au
steel fermenters and state-of-the-art
own distillery.
Open to Visitors: By Appointment
mash
SPRING BAY DISTILLERY Spring Bay's cool temperate environment
coastal
produces some of Australia's
finest seafood and cool climate wines.
The
location of the distillery is less than 500 metres from Spring Bay, also a perfect place to mature whisky, and for that whisky to take on the briny
"Our single malts are unique as they reflect the spirit of this place, the
characteristics of its home. The influence of Spring Bay's 'terroir' occurs mainly through the water used in the distillery combined with a copper pot still that produces a sweet malty spirit. This combination
is what makes
Spring Bay single malt uniquely Tasmanian.
6 Hoods Rd Spring Beach TAS 7190 T: +61 417 351 663 W: springbaydistillery.com.au Open to Visitors: By Appointment MUST TRY WHISKY: The Rheban Cask Strength Port Cask
)
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197
~ CRADLE MOUNTAIN www.tasmanianwhisky.com.au
joe@cradlemountainwhisky.co Phone: +613 90105090
Enhancing your whisky experience The Cradle Glass forces the undesirable alcohol vapour out and retains the aroma in the center of the glass, precisely where your nose enters. This allows you to nose the full aroma while drinking.
EMOTES: The precise dimensions allows you to nose a high alcohol spirit without the alcohol burn going up your nose. Emotes the full flavour and back notes from all the beautiful products you drink in this glass.
MOVES: Rocking bottom extends the Movement to continue the release of the aroma
EXPELS: Wide pouting glass mouth pushes vapour up and Expels it outwards
ACCELERATES: Designed based on the Bernoulli Principle the narrow
neck concentrates the Aroma and Accelerates the movement of the vapour up
RADIATES:
AERATES:
Round bottom allows the Radiant heat from the hand to agitate the phenols and release the flavour
U The Cradle GlassÂŽ
www.cradleglass.com
E:rocking@cradleglass.com
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Alcohol Vapour
Large bulbous base swirls the whisky.
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Aroma & Organic Compounds
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
SHENE ESTATE & DISTILLERY
their passion for heritage conservation by
Shene Estate, located 15 minutes from Mona,
of our whisky, you are helping to conserve an
is an iconic 1819 colonial property with links
iconic Australian Estate
making fine whisky. When you raise a glass
to the British Royal family and Vice-Regal representative
Lachlan Macquarie. Shene Estate
played an important
role in the development
76 Shene Road, Pontville. TAS 7030 Phone: +61 432 480 250
of the colony as an agricultural and pastoral
Website: www.shene.com.au
holding and continues to remain relevant to
Open to Visitors: By appointment
this day.
MUST TRY WHISKY: Mackey Single Malt, Established in 2014, Shene Distillery introduces
Tawny cask matured (French Oak, Australian
a new exciting chapter to the property.
style port).
Shene
Estate is home of the Kernke family who melds
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199
Most whiskies can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks or with a splash of water, just as the creators had perhaps intended.
HOW TO MAKE AN OLD FASHIONED The Old-Fashioned
whiskey cocktail started
it's life in the 19th century as a way to enjoy a
Sometimes though, the occasion calls for something a little more fancy, and that's where a classic whisky cocktail is what's needed.
whiskey throughout
the day at a lower ABV than
the straight whiskey itself. By combining,
sugar,
water and aromatic bitters with a good rye or
WORDS AND RECIPES BEN DAVIDSON PHOTOGRAPHS RYAN STUART
Bourbon whiskey, the Old Fashioned cocktail is a pure delight for the senses. It has undergone a recent renaissance in popularity
helped by the
Many classic cocktails from before and during the 'Golden Age' of the cocktail, used American
classic cocktail revival trend as well as through
whiskies like Rye or Bourbon to soften and sweeten the punch of a big cask-strength whiskey - in
the hugely popular Mad Men television series.
drinks like the Mint Julep, Whiskey Sour or Old Fashioned. A little later on, bartenders also started using Irish and Scotch whiskies in cocktails, which bring their own set of soothing flavours to the mix.
STEP 1 Add a sugar cube to an Old-fashioned
These Classic Whisky cocktails have stood the test of time because of their elegant simplicity and
glass
and hit it with 2 dashes of Angostura bitters.
allowing the whisky to be the hero of the cocktail.
STEP 2 When deciding to make cocktails at home there are a few important things to consider:
Add a bar spoon of cold water and break down the sugar cube with a flat
• Always use good quality whiskey or
• Always use a beautiful glass to serve it in, like
whisky in the cocktail like some of the
glassware from the Spiegelau Perfect Serve
one's shown here.
collection seen here.
ended bar spoon.
STEP 3 Add a healthy measure of your choice of
• Always use fresh squeezed lemon juice when called for in the recipe, anything less will ruin the taste.
• Get yourself some good quality bar tools like those from Ober Bar Tools or Bar Geek.
whiskey and a large ice cube or smaller cubes of ice. Stir very well for at least a minute, to get the required dilution, chilled temperature, well as integrating
• Always use good quality ice. We used ice from the Bare Bones Ice Company, based in
STEP 4
Sydney. They can supply crystal clear ice that
Garnish with an orange peel twist and a
takes the cocktail to a higher level.
Maraschino cherry and serve immediately.
200 exploredrinks.com
as
all the ingredients together.
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...
STRA IGHT AYI WNISKl!Y
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OLD FASHIONED WHISKE! COCKTAI L! GLASS: Old FashionecJ INGREDIENTS : 60ml x Woodford Reserve Rye Whiske y 2 Dashes A romat ic bitter s
1 x Suga r cube 1 x Orange peel twist 1 x Maraschino cherry
,-
METHOD: Add th esugar .~ ~ c • b d aromat ic b1'tters · • to• a k ·u e an coc tail stirrin g glas ~ • n press with a fl at-end db spoon. Add w h'1skey and· e ar for at least . ice and stir well O ne minute St · · Fashio ned I . rain into an Old g ass ove r a large cube of ice.
d
GARNISH ·. An or ange I · Maraschino h pee twist and a c erry
exploredrink
s.co m 201
SAZERAC GLASS: O ld Fashio ned g lass INGREDIENTS:
45ml Southern Comfort Black Whiskey 15ml Cogna c 5ml French absinth e 2 x Dashes Peychaud's bitters 2 x Dashes Angostura bitters METHOD: Add all ingred ients t o a coc ktail
mixing g lass and stir gen tl y with ice. Strain into an O ld Fashioned glass. GARNISH: Lemon peel t wist
202 exp lo rearink:s.com
111T H taM FO . BU ( I,
DRINKS
NEW YORK SOUR GLASS: Dou bl e Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS:
45ml Michter's Rye Whi skey 30ml Fresh lemon jui ce 20m l Red wine
HONEY & GINGER TODDY GLASS: Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS:
50ml Johnnie Walker Double Black Scotch Whisky 75ml Hot water 10ml Fresh lemon juice 10ml Honey 1 x Cinnamon stick 1 x Slice of ginger METHOD : Add ginger to an Old Fashioned
glass and press with a flat ended bar spoo n. Add remaining ingred ients and stir gent ly. GARNISH : Cinnamon stick
DRINKS
BLOOD & SAND GLASS: Coupette INGREDIENTS :
45ml Chivas 18YO Scot ch Whisky 15ml Sweet verm o uth 15ml Cherr y Heering liqueur 30ml Fresh o range jui ce METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker
and shake with a large scoop of ice. Strain into a cocktail glass over a large cube of ice. GARNISH: Orange peel twist
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205
MINT JULEP GLASS·C . oppe r cup INGREDIENTS : 60ml Woodf or d Reserve D m l Suga r syrup ouble Oak Bourbo 10
1x L
arge bun ch o f fre sh mint ·
. cMETHOD : Add ingredients tO a metal julep up and stir gently · h until fr ost ap wit a larg e cube of· pears on th e cup. ice · spr igs GARNISH·. Large bunch of mint
n
DRINKS
WHISKY COLLINS GLASS: Highball INGREDIENTS:
60ml The Singleton of Dufftown Scotch Whisky 30ml Fresh lemon juice 15ml Sugar syrup 90ml Fever Tree Soda Water METHOD: Add ingredients to a highball
g lass. Add an ice spear and stir gently. GARNISH : Lemon wheel
exploredrink s.com 207
DRINKS
WHISKY SOUR GLASS: Do uble O ld Fashioned INGREDIENTS :
60ml The Macallan 12YO Double Cask Scotch Whisky 30ml Fresh lem on jui ce 15ml Sugar syrup 15ml Egg white METHOD : Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker with a
large scoop of ice. Shake vigo ro usly until fully mixed toge ther. Strain into a Do uble O ld Fashio ned g lass and add a large cube of ice. GARNISH: An orange peel twi st and a
Maraschino cherry
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IRISH COFFEE GLASS: Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS :
_
50ml Jameson Black Barrel Irish Whiskey 75ml Hot black coffee 10ml Sugar syrup 30ml Lightly whipped cream METHOD : Add the first thr ee
ingredients to an Old Fashioned and stir gently. Carefully layer the lightly whipped cream onto the surface over the back of a bar spoo n. GARNISH: Coffee beans
l~MEso11
DRINKS
GLASS: Martini glass INGREDIENTS: 15ml Sweet vermouth 5ml French absinthe 2 x Dashes Aromatic bitters .
METHOD : Add ing red ients to a cocl<tail
'
mixing glass and stir gently witli ice. Strain
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int o a coc ktail glass.
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. t, ·.
GARNISH : Maraschino cherry
exploredrink s.com 211
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MORNING GLORY FIZZ GLASS: Highball INGREDIENTS:
60ml Dewar's 15YO Scotch Whisky 20ml Fresh lemon juice 5m l French absinthe 10m l Sugar syrup 10m l Egg wh ite 60ml Fever Tree Soda Water METHOD : Add the first five
ingredient s to a coc ktail shaker with a large scoop of ice. Shake vigorous ly until fully mixed. Strain into a highball
shaker and shake w ith a large scoop of ice. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over a large cube of ice. GARNISH: Cube with crystalli sed g inger .
212 exp lo redrinks.com
DRINKS
'-
BOUDLEVARDIER GLASS: O ld Fashio ned INGREDIENTS : 30ml W ild Turkey Bo urb o n 20 ml Ca mp ari 20ml Sweet verm o uth
METHOD· . . . Add .ing red ients t o a cockt ·1 mixing gl . . ass an d stir ge ntly with ice ai Strain int o an O ld Fash.1o ned gl . large cube of ice. ass over a
GARNISH·. A n o range peel twis t
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A highball is an old fashioned name of a refreshing long drink that is back on trend. They are often lengthened with soda water, tonic water or dry ginger ale . A highball provides a refreshing and less intense whiskey drink when combined with other ingredients as well as adding subtle flavours, balance and a little complexity. There is no limit to what can be used to make a Highball, so you can be as inventive as you like! Here's a few to get the creative juices flowing .
...
INGREDIENTS:
1
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30m l Buffalo Trace bourbon 30m l pink grapefruit juice 90m l Fever Tree dry ginger ale
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METHOD : Add ingredients to a highball g lass and gent ly stir with ice. GARNISH : Garnish wi th slice of grapefruit
DRINKS NEW ORLEANS HIGHBALL
STARWARD SONIC
INGREDIENTS:
30ml Starward whisky Wine Cask finish
30ml Southern Comfort Black
10ml creme de cassis
INGREDIENTS:
10ml fresh lemon juice
10ml verjuice
10ml peach liqueur
45ml Fever Tree soda water
5ml French Absinthe
45ml Fever tree tonic water
90ml Fever Tree soda water
METHOD: Add ingredients to a METHOD: Add ingredients to a
highball glass and gently stir with ice.
highball glass and gently stir with ice.
GARNISH: Garnish with green grapes GARNISH: Garnish with star anise
TEELING'S SPRITZ INGREDIENTS: 30ml Teeling Small Batch Irish whiskey 20ml Lillet Blanc 90ml Fever Tree dry ginger ale
METHOD: Add ingredients to a highball glass and gently stir with ice.
GARNISH: Garnish with slice of orange
Welcome to our Whisky Cabinet where we share with you our thoughts and evaluations on the excellent whiskies we have access to, through our brand and trade partners. Our drinks curator, Ben Davidson of Bespoke Drinks assembled some of the finest and most loved whiskies from around the world that are available in Australia, and asked respected independent
whisky exp erts to taste and
evaluate the wh iskies und er a b lind tast ing conditions. The tast ing notes submitt ed by the Wh isky Cabinet expert tast ers gives us an excellent insight int o the flavours and aromas as well as the overall perceived quality, based on the style and substance of each whisky or whiskey.
WHISKY CABINET TASTING EXPERTS: ASH PINI I Edit OJ; BEN DAVIDSON I D rinks Curator JAMES BUNTIN I The W hisky Ambassador MATT WOOLER I Dram Nati o n MATT BAILEY I SMWS KEN GARGETT I Spirits Wr iter YAO WONG I The Elysian, Melbourne GEOFF FEWELL I Speakeasy Group, Melbourne D IMITRI RTSHILADZE I Mechan ic's Institute, Perth STUART MORROW I The Baxte r Inn, Sydney Slaintel
ASH .
216 exp lo re drinks.com
DRINKS
SCOTCH WHISKYBENRIACH SINGLE MALT WHISKY
10YO 'CURIOSITAS' PEATED SINGLE MALT Region: Speyside, Scotland
GLENFIDDICH
ABV 46.0% I RRP $95
21YO RESERVA RUM CASK FINISH
Very pale in colour, think paw-paw yellow.
Region: Speyside, Scotland
complex rugged style. Reminds one of wild
This single malt has real character. An exciting
ABV 43.2% I RRP $260
heather and barren rock. Intense. Nuts and
Deep gold colour. Aromas of
smoke. A no-prisoners, serious malt. Some
Demerara sugar, tropical fruits,
spice and even some teak. A finely balanced
molasses. Rich and complex
and spirited dram with a long
palate, filled with brown sugar,
and nicely balanced finish. KG 96
banana, toffee. A generous mouthfeel. As it develops I'm
Pale straw colour with aromas of
getting a coffee flavour. A
earthy sooty smoke, clean and
whisky to be savoured, take
light apple sweetness, followed
your time and enjoy. AP 94
by a palate of smoky white oak with a grassy floral sweetness and
THE GLENLIVET
hints of straw. The Finish long
'NADURRA' FIRST FILL SELECTION CASK STRENGTH
and refined with vanilla caramels
Region: Speyside, Scotland
to have this with a selection of
ABV 63.1% I RRP $125
cheeses like a creamy light blue
Heavy sweet vanilla oak and carbon paper
or a mild washed rind. JB 94
and malty brioche. I would love
aromas. Typical bourbon cask style fruity love yet mildly nutty. A good level of proof gives a
ABERLOUR
high spirit effect Spicy and wax driven with malt,
12YO
apple flesh and vanilla sweetness overall before
Region: Speyside, Scotland
a sharp metallic tang hammers home. Long,
ABV 40.0% I RRP $89
drying and fresh with one mighty spicy punch
Dark golden colour. Aromas
to the throat. While sharpening your favourite
of red apples, tinged with
Scottish Claymore great sword.
ginger spice and oloroso sherry
MW90
sweetness. On the palate the aromas translate into a
Finally some cask strength
1
full bodied mouthfeel, with
Very light and un-peated on the
orchard fruit sweetness, hints
nose. No burn at all however
of dark chocolate and raisins,
so perfect integration
robust malty character and a
of cask
and spirit regardless of age.
nice smattering
Clearly an ex-bourbon
notes all the way to a deliciously
cask. Hot
sponge cake on the palate with
of sweet sherry
long finish. BD 88
notes of macadamia nut, white sugar dusting, red apple skins.
LONGMORN
Finish is long and huge. Love
DISTILLER'S CHOICE
it. Neat, drop of water, and in a
Region: Speyside, Scotland
proper capita. MB 90
ABV 40.0% I RRP $120 Light Yellow gold colour with aromas of Fresh banana, tropical fruit, green mango pineapple skin and tarragon. On the Palate - Werthers originals, light pine or balsa wood, sweet liquorice and redcurrant marshmallows. The Finish is delicate light buttery to the end I would smash this with a pavlova or a fruit salad and cream. JB 87 exploredrinks.com
217
THE GLENLIVET FOUNDER'S
RESERVE,
SINGLE
MALT.
A fitting tribute to our founder George Smith's original vision. Paying homage to the unique fruity style he first envisioned back in 1824 and for which we're still renowned today.
ITALL COMES BACK TOTHE ORIGINAL THE
GLENLIVEI
~
THE
Gb~~1JY ~T FOUNDER'S RESE RVE
DRINKS Old gold, though at the paler
GLENFIDDICH
warm earth notes, minerally.
end of the range. A little like
18YO
But the real character here
lemon blossom. Some florals
Region: Speyside, Scotland
is the richness, the fruitcake
and a hint of a smoky note.
ABV 40.0% I RRP $125
notes and hints of chocolate.
Old furniture. It is still just a
Deep Golden in colour. Aromas
This is a Christmas whisky if
little muted and opens with
of Christmas cake, butter and
ever there was one. Supple and
time in the glass. Mustard
caramel sweets. Flavours of
creamy. Good spirit but nicely
seed spices. Pleasant but is
ginger and vanilla, dried fruits
balanced. The impression is of
a little broad - could do with
and almonds. Deliciously
notes not dissimilar to an aged
more focus. Enjoyable but not
elegant across the palate, the
Rutherglen muscat or PX sherry.
the most complex of malts.
whisky slides across the taste
The intense plum pudding
Lots to like if one is not being
buds and delivers rich and full
are maintained
super-critical.
flavours. Medium to long finish.
Love it. excellent length. KG 95
A mid-length
finish. KG 88
notes
for the long haul.
Everything you'd expect in a classic Speyside single malt.
GLENFIDDICH
Shows signs of plenty of age. Delicious
Mahogany coloured with aromas I
AP 89
21YO 'WINTER STORM'
of Chocolate
Oloroso sherry and french polish.
On the Palate there is Stewed fruit chutney,rich
Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% I RRP $350 Light caramel, copper and
THE GLENLIVET
fruit cake and salty chocolate truffles. The finish
'NADURRA' OLOROSO CASK STRENGTH
deep. Best enjoyed At the end of the evening
is Amazingly
long multi layered and refreshingly
hues. The aromas are rich
Region: Speyside, Scotland
with special friends or to toast that special
and complex on the nose,
ABV 60.7% I RRP $110
occasion JB 97
an orchestra full of vanilla,
Pale Bronze in colour. Aromas of
honey and tropical fruits. On
hazelnuts, walnut shells, leather
GLENFIDDICH
the palate it has a complex
books. Signature sherry. ABV is
IPA EXPERIMENT
mouthfeel that delivers a rich
done well, and doesn't stand out.
Region: Speyside, Scotland
and balanced experience.
On the palate there are notes of
ABV 43.0% I RRP $135
Bose pears, ripe apricots, lychee,
Pale gold colour. Aromas of
Touches of cinnamon and peppery spices complete a very
rm
STO RM
pleasurable dram. The finish is complex with a slight orange
dried mango, redcurrant jelly,
Fruitcake, raisins and stewed
burnt caramel, violet crumble,
apple, quite rich and exotic.
giving waves of flavours and
Spiced mid-palate,
peel bitterness that balances
texture. Apricot
sugar - rich and complex -
the rich finish. A superb whiskyl
toffee apple, wine gums, Airy to oily across
delicious and generous. Faint
AP95
the palate as the high ABV dries the mouth
hints of chocolate
and begins to take over. The finish needs cask
hopiness on the medium to long
LAGAVULIN
sweetness to carry this here, not more time, just
finish. AP 92
16YO SINGLE ISLAY MALT
better oak. Very nice cask strength dram
21
brandy, treacle,
I
Demerara
and faint
GF 88
BENRIACH
Region: Speyside, Scotland
10YO
ABV 43.0% I RRP $110
Deep Golden in colour with a faint whiff of
Golden colour. Aromas of
highland peat up front gives way to creme
Region: Speyside, Scotland
Iodine
brulee, honey and cereal notes. Given time
ABV 43.0% I RRP $70
I
Peat reek and salt that
opens up to a creamy vanilla
orchard fruit, namely pear, notes appear. At
Pale lemon/orange.
note. A slight greenness like raw
bottling
colour to an old cricket bat. This
strength it is all poached pear and
Similar
asparagus or seaweed. Iodine
vanilla leading to some signature sherry dryness.
is a little muted and closed at this
carries through to the palate.
A drop of water reveals more depth, with
stage. Open it up with a drop
A pleasant sweetness, with
rockmelon and muscovado coming to the front.
or two of water. There is a little
a salted butter note coming
A hint of smoke and salt. Would go great with
treacle and even warm earth with
through.
cured meats and cheese platter. SM 90
a hint of pine forest freshness. A
finisher to the night. Campfire
GLENDRONACH
pleasing malty note, but certainly
type whisky that will keep you
21YO PARLIAMENT
not overwhelming
warm on a winter night. Would
Region: Speyside, Scotland
citrus and floral touches. All very
go great with a dark chocolate
ABV 48.0% I RRP $250
attractive Medium length and
torte. SM 88
Dark, dark mahogany colour. There is obvious
it lingers with a very soft finish.
aged material here. Mature and complex. Some
KG 90
Plenty of maritime
character. This would be a great
lovely creamy texture. There is a
at all. Some
exploredrinks.com219
Distilled and bottled by Buffalo Trace, Frankfort, KY, USA. Imported and distributed by SouthTrade International www.southtradeint.com.at1
In Kentucky, buffalo carved a pathway followed b~ earl)i.American pioneers. On the spot where the buffalo migration route crossed the Kentucky River, this National Histor k Landmark lias been making ""'-
legendary bourbon whiskey for over 200 ri;ears. Today, Buffalo Trace crafts the best collection of bourbons and whiskies in the world by
~--â&#x20AC;˘
honouring tradition and embracing change.
BUf f-DISTILLERY " ilO. lltAC!
DRINKS
TAMNAVULIN
THE BALVENIE
AILSABAY
DOUBLE CASK
14YO CARIBBEAN CASK
Region: Speyside, Scotland
Region: Speyside, Scotland
SWEET SMOKE SINGLE MALT
ABV 40.0% I RRP $65
ABV 43.0% I RRP $145
Region: Lowlands, Scotland
Very full bodied with lots of
Rich golden in colour. Spicy,
ABV 48.9% I RRP $100
freshly picked casks, rich and
full and sweet dried fruits,
Pale golden colour with aromas
sweet spirit with both bourbon
hints of rum and raisins. On
of distant peat and heather
and sherry influence shining
the palate there's a powerful
moss with sweet notes of
through. Ever-so-slight hint of
mouthfeel with a combination
stonefruit and citrus and faint
sulphur and driftwood,
of tropical fruits, vanilla and
vanilla coming through. On the
mango and dessert cream.
then
honey. There's a long finish
palate, a fine balance of subtle
Brown sugars on the palate and
with plenty of complex spice
brine and distant campfire
nicely oaky on the finish. As
and fruits. AP 88
with the sweetness of orange
an intro to classic single malts.
.... -
and creme anglaise. The lifted
BRUICHLADDICH
MB 85
GLENFARCLAS
alcohol is nicely balanced with the flavours to
THE CLASSIC LADDIE UN-PEATED
give a very satisfying dram. Best enjoyed neat or
Region: Islay, Scotland
with a little ice. BD 89
105 CASK STRENGTH SPANISH OLOROSO SHERRY CASK
ABV 43.0% I RRP $99 Pale Golden colour. Creamy
THE BALVENIE
Region: Speyside, Scotland
aromas, bold, soft smoke,
12YO DOUBLE WOOD
ABV 60.0% I RRP $140
medicinal, cashew nuts,
Region: Speyside, Scotland
Dried fruit and a big hit of
button mushrooms, forest
ABV 40.0% I RRP $85
alcohol, followed by lovely
floor. Rich palate, oily, a bit
Yellow gold in colour. Aromas
dried fruits, dates, and
young, grassy, oxidised citrus,
of vanilla, honey and light oak
sweetness. With water it is
sour fruits on the finish. Mild
sweetness. On the palate there
more of a sherry and fruit affair.
sharpness on the finish,
are notes of raisins, dried fruit
Still a hint of higher alcohol
pomelo, hints of bitter citrus
and gentle spice. Lovely notes
burn which carries the sherry
pith .... A light metallic touch
of nutmeg and cinnamon
flavours for a long time. When
on the finish? Straight or with
come through on mid-palate,
it disappears you are left with
water. YW75
with a spicy, sweetness that
an oily dark fruit finish. Straight,
rueBALVl!NIE .l"-~
..
llo~DU!\\tl(JIJ
--â&#x20AC;˘12¡ ""'
still allows the whisky to have a
and then a dab of water to
THE BALVENIE
slightly dry and medium length
reduce the burn. Definitely one
17YO DOUBLE WOOD
finish. AP 86
to enjoy straight for the more
Region: Speyside, Scotland
seasoned drinkers DR 93
ABV 43.0% I RRP $180
ABERLOUR
Rich gold in colour. Sherry
A'BUNADH
GLENFIDDICH
sweetness on the nose, with
Region: Speyside, Scotland
15YO SOLERA RESERVE
dried fruits. Forceful yet
ABV 59.8% I RRP $140
Region: Speyside, Scotland
elegant. Plenty of spices and
Dark mahogany in appearance. The aromas are
ABV 40.0% I RRP $120
dried fruit, a warmth carries
Christmas cake in a glass. Dates combined with
Deep gold colour. Aromas of
the flavour from front to back
spices, cloves nutmeg, star anise and cinnamon
dried fruit and spice, vanilla and
effortlessly. Chocolate and
with burnt orange peel oils in
a rich oakiness. A nice viscous
creamy texture. Rich and
the background.
and slightly oily mouthfeel and a
generous, the sweetness is
there are notes plums, black
lovely opulent palate of fruitcake
delivered in balance AP 88
cherries with dark chocolate, which coat the mouth with
and sherry sweetness with raisins
full bodied sweet sherry and
and dried apricot. Finish is long and complex with a slightly
On the palate
15
balanced oak woven together.
drying oaky and rich sweetness.
A cask strength flavour tour de
AP 90
force that finishes full of exotic spices and oak that leaves the mouth salivating for more. Perfect in a tasting glass with 5ml of cold water. BD 94
222 exploredrinks.com
ASPIRIT°F OBSESSION
100% Rye Whisky.
Unapologetically
Canadianâ&#x2122;Ś Lot No. 40 is the personal obsession of our Master Blender, Don Livermore . He ensures it's made the way rye whisky should be- one batch at a time in a single copper pot still, aged in virgin oak casks to perfectly balance the rye flavour. It's details like these that reflect Don's ongoing obsession to craft the world's
finest rye whisky. To find out more visit lot40rye.com
Let our WHISKY do the TALKING Our founder, James Fleming, lived by his family's motto of 'let the deed show' or 'actions speak louder than words'. Today, this philosophy still ripples through everything we do. But don't just take our word for it, try a dram yourself and let our whisky do the talking.
Let the DEED show
lhle
DRINKS
CRAIGELLACHIE
GLENFIDDICH
17YO SINGLE MALT
PROJECT XX
Region: Speyside, Scotland
Region: Speyside, Scotland
ABV 46.0% I RRP $175
ABV 47.0% I RRP $150
THE GLENLIVET 15YO THE FRENCH OAK RESERVE
Light, straw-like appearance. A tantalizing
Bright gold in colour. Fresh
Region: Speyside, Scotland
nose; apple juice, black tea
and lively, lots of fruit, ripe
ABV 40.0% I RRP $120
and cinnamon. A honey
apples apricots and pear.
Peach iced tea coloured.
sweetness, beautifully balanced
Delicate spices with nutmeg,
Aromas of lovely stone fruits,
and powerful mouthfeel.
vanilla and subtle cinnamon.
tropical, red grapes, soft
Develops into more cinnamon
On the palate the flavours
caramel, starburst candy,
with butterscotch
darken to include stewed
vibrant fruit profile overall. Very
and oaky
sweetness and buttery texture. Medium-length
and
fruit, roasted nuts and dark
pleasant on the palate, medium
chocolate, with some black
weight, more tropical fruit
complex. Honeysuckle and
pepper spice and oak leading
moving into a toasty malt finish
herbs - again well balanced. A
to a delicious medium to long
with a lovely tannin. Straight or
cracking Speyside single malt
finish. AP 89
over ice. YW 85
with plenty to offer that is not
TALISKER
GLENDRONACH
describe this whisky is: balance.
STORM SINGLE MALT
12YO ORIGINAL SINGLE MALT
AP 90
Region: Skye, Scotland
Region: Highlands, Scotland
ABV 45.8% I RRP $85
ABV 43.0% I RRP $100
overpowering.
The word to
THEDALMORE
Pale golden colour. Aromas
Medium golden amber in
15YO HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT
of soft smoke, old oak and
colour. Aromas of fortified
a touch of almond. On the
wine cask influence, grapefruit
Region: Highlands, Scotland
palate upfront malt, then
peel, earthy spices, raisins,
ABV 43.0% I RRP $150
with a salty fizz on the side of
richer stewed fruit, touch of
Dark and sexy amber colour
the tongue with a dried fruit
sulphur, dusty cupboards.
with big aromas of dried
like sweetness, building.
On the palate is marmalade,
fruits, a bit of funk but in a
the finish there is lingering
orange blossom honey, some
good way, hidden alcohol.
wood smoke, only light, then
stewed stone fruits, meaty,
You pick up what you would
sweetness returns to round it
cloves, semi dried prunes and
assume is a different cask
out. A very nice sipper with just
hints of blueberry, followed by
type rather than American
a dash of water. DR 93
a medium long finish. Straight
On
or over ice. YW 86
oak, I'd guess at potentially sherry wood. Sweet upfront, transforming
GLENFARCLAS
THE SINGLETON
comes back with a date like sweetness. The
15YO SPANISH OLOROSO CASK MATURED
finish is long, sweet and dry. Left wanting more.
Region: Speyside, Scotland
In a glass, into your mouth. DR 94
ABV 45.8% I RRP $145
Region: Dufftown, Scotland
Deep golden with touches of mahogany in
ABV 40.0% I RRP $75
colour. Aromas of dried fruit and nuts, as the
Dark Straw colour. Aromas are
to malt and a treacle, dries out for a bit then
SCAPA 'THE ORCANDIAN' SINGLE MALT
12YO SINGLE MALT OF DUFFTOWN
intense and powerful oloroso
light and fruity, lots of orchard
sherry cask aging is revealed.
fruits, red apples, fresh
Region: Orkney, Scotland
Notes of old varnish, leather
citrus peel, cut grass, hints
ABV 40.0% I RRP $120
and old book shop signals the
of pineapple.
Pale Gold colour with soft
aged characters and heavily
palate, oiliness that lightly
aromas, hints of wood tannin,
oxidised aromas leaning
coats the mouth, caramel,
hint of citrus, a little bit of spice.
toward rancio. The palate is
good vanilla kick with a lovely
On the palate, signs of lifted
all raisins, more sherry, orange
floral finish and medium
It has a malty
alcohol, malty driven with a hint
marmalade, walnuts and sticky
length. Best enjoyed Straight
of esters and dry cacao. The finish
dates pudding. The finish is
or over ice. YW 88
is surprising long, dry and leaves
incredibly long, complex, with
you wanting more. I'd enjoy this
a garnish of walnuts, Christmas
mixed in something
cake. This is a superb whisky
highball. DR 85
like a whisky
I
BD94 exploredrinks.com
225
HIGHLAND PARK 12YO 'VIKING HONOUR'
LAPHROAIG
MUIRHEAD'S
25YO CASK STRENGTH 2013 EDITION
16YO SILVER SEAL
Region: Islay, Scotland
ABV 40.0% I RRP $69
Region: Highland, Scotland
Region: Orkney, Scotland
ABV 45.1 % I RRP $700
A rich and full aromas, with
ABV 40.0% I RRP $85
Light Gold colour. Aromas of
a bold character, there are
Very Pale, Light Straw in
iodine, with hay mulch and
notes of dried fruit, chocolate,
colour. Aromas of lightly
honey. Some floral notes with
highland heather and herbs.
peated
macadamia
The palate is sweet and
malt, toffee and
oil and ginger.
light oak. On the palate
Some slight sherried sweetness,
exceptionally
there is a light fizz on the
on the palate with faint iodine
Notes of toffee and barley
side of the tongue,
light
well rounded.
and sea spray gives way to
sugar with a hint of smoke and
wood tannin but surprisingly
ginger snap. Macadamia
peat coming through, with a
good mouth feel. The finish is short and crisp,
almond nuts. Some baked apple
with a lightly peated
and vanilla. Superb and deep
malty sweetness
lingers for a little bit. Depends jam is, acceptable
that
on what your
as a sipper, I'd be throwing
and
smoky finish. Would go well with Battenberg
DR 87
THE MACALLAN
SHACKLETON BLENDED MALT
cake. SM 93
Region: Scotland
some sugar and bitters in there to make it more of a crowd pleasing Old Fashioned.
medium to long finish. AP 84
BRUICHLADDICH
ABV 40.0% I RRP $65
OCTOMORE MASTERCLASS 08.1 SUPER-HEAVILY PEATED
grain character, lightly toasted
Pale Straw colour. Prominent
Region: Islay, Scotland
resin, mild grassiness,
12 YO DOUBLE CASK
ABV 59.3% I RRP $180
peels, light violet flowers.
Region: Speyside, Scotland
Smashes right up the nostrils and into the brain.
Peppery front palate given
ABV 43.0% I RRP $115
Sweet barley, pencil shavings and herbal soot.
for 40% Abv, very soft, no oiliness in the mid palates light
lemon
Dark Straw colour. Aromas
Red bloody meats and bags
of ginger spice, some dried
ash. I think a steam locomotive just ran into
biscuits in the finish then a
apples and floral. Not a lot
my throat
sharp end to the finish. Enjoy
of sweetness,
quite dry and
savoury, hint of nutmeg.
12
of flint, soot and
Lumbering coal train long. Best
enjoyed while watching Julie Andrews giving
with a mixer, soda probably
Dick Van Dyke a sponge
preferred. YW 75
bath after his scene as
Good length, finishes with
a chimney sweep in Mary Poppins. Lather upl
that continued
MW93
spice, slightly
NAKED GROUSE 12YO BLENDED MALT
resinous. Best enjoyed Neat, dash of water really
Boom I The peat is evident.
Region: Highlands, Scotland
opens it up. DR 93
Quite heavily peated,
ABV 40.0% I RRP $65
not what really stands out. The
Aromas of dark chocolate
BRUICHLADDICH
'funk' and barnyard smell is
cherry liqueurs, almonds
PORT CHARLOTTE HEAVILY PEATED
there, which lends itself quite
and old salty leather. All the
Region: Islay, Scotland
closely to Bruichladdich from
makings of a carnies carpet
ABV 50.0% I RRP $99
experience.
bag. Sweet, comfortable
Light golden straw colour.
manure, organic barley and local
rich. Tends to drop off a bit
Aromas of peat and of lifted
peat. Menthol and brine on the
towards the back. Controlled
alcohol, but not unpleasant.
palate for a big whack on the
and even. Looking for that
Lots of malt and a hint of
finish. It's tasty, it's peated,
stewed fruits and coffee,
it's uncomplicated
very malt forward, pretty
one-dimensional.
delicious and oily. Slight
as the last whisky of the night.
hint of smoke. The finish is
MB 88
long, carried through by the high alcohol. A touch of water helps to open it up. Definitely a good sipper and a good way to end the evening. DR 95
226 exploredrinks.com
but that's
Hay bales, horse
but
and a tad Best enjoyed
and
anchor to dull the sweetness. While watching The Famous Five. MW 87
DRINKS rind. A little peaty note emerged as a gentle
CHIVAS REGAL
smokiness, balanced with some sherry
12 YO MIZUNARA
SCOTCH WHISKY BLENDED WHISKY
richness. Great texture here, lovely creaminess.
Region: Scotland
A hint of a nutty and biscuity note comes
ABV 40.0% I RRP $125
JOHNNIE WALKER
through. Complex and supple, with good spirit.
Light Amber in colour. Aromas
A very fine blended whisky. Has impressive
of creamy grain character,
DOUBLE BLACK LABEL
length. KG 93
medium toasted bread crust,
ABV 40.0% I RRP $65
CHIVAS REGAL
earthy and woody spices. On
Deep copper with brightness.
12YO
the palate, the oak is more
Lifted nose, struck match,
Region: Scotland
pronounced, with signs of a
honey and oak. Full bodied,
ABV 40.0% I RRP $60
decent age, good mouthfeel,
rich and complex. Dried
Light Gold colour. Aromas
soft salinity, accented with
Region: Scotland
light honey, orange peels, faint
raisins, apples and pear -
of stone fruit, also apples
Christmas cake with a light
peat smokiness and balance
and pears with Demerara
muted honey character
of sweetness and spice. A
sugar and kitchen spice.
medium-short finish. Can enjoy
lingering smokiness elegantly
Fudge and caramel notes on
straight or over ice. YW 82
combine with black pepper
second inspection.
and charred oak. AP 91
palate there is a slight waxy
On the
note, accented with peach
CHIVAS REGAL
pits, vanilla and honeydew
IRISH WHISKEY
melon. A sweet demerara
18YO
finish makes this a very easy
MIDLETON
Region: Scotland
intro introduction
VERY RARE
ABV 40.0% I RRP $85
Would make an excellent
Region: Ireland
Dark vibrant gold in colour.
highball. SM 80
ABV 40.0% I RRP $250
chocolate and a faint whiff
DEWARS
candied lemon, sweet porridge
of smoke, with prominent
15YO 'THE MONARCH'
and freshly milled malt. Tropical
malty sweetness with a
Region: Scotland
fruity notes of ripe banana,
touch of spice. The palate
ABV 40.0% I RRP $70
mango and pineapple sweetness
is in line with the nose yet
Golden amber colour. Malt shows up
develop. The palate is soft and
the spicy notes become
straightaway along with some nice oak,
creamy with lemon drizzle cakes
more pronounced.
probably both American
with vanilla cream with hints of
to whisky.
Aromas of vanilla, dark
Burnished gold colour. Aromas of
Malty
sweetness and hazelnuts.
and Spanish oak, with some
barley spice. The mouthfeel
A bold and rich finish lingers as the spices
sherry. On the palate, sweet
initial softness, along with some
really come through and then tails off into dark
Malteasers, sweet sawdust,
of the sweet grainy notes and
chocolate and well integrated
light entry, fresh and citric,
subtle tartness, barrel char bitterness and sweet
oak. A touch of
has
water brought out an orange zest and opened
totally unexpected. All light
cream giving a harmonious taste. A unique
up an oakiness. A beautifully smooth blended
fruits, citrus, wax apples and
whiskey to be sipped and savoured. BD 96
whisky. BD 90
pear eau de vie. It has an
JOHNNIE WALKER
unusual contrast to the nose,
TYRCONNELL
good texture, but not much
SINGLE MALT IRISH
weight. Oak kicks in with a bit
Region: Ireland
BLACK LABEL SHERRY EDITION
of air. Light, short length &
ABV 40.0% I RRP $80
juicy. Mouth-watering.
Bright Straw colour. Has a forward
Region: Scotland
for a 40% blend with a decent
ABV 40.0% I RRP $65
malt component
Dark brown with hints of gold
together. GF 81
Solid
and well put
nose with pear and vanilla. A moreish mouthfeel as the velvety whiskey slides to the back of the
in colour. Imagine the embers
throat, there's a cleanness and
of a fire on the horizon.
freshness about this whisky, I get
Exciting nose. Showing some
lemon zest and caramel. A clean
appealing
and crisp finish. Feels youthful and
complexity. Spice,
cinnamon, even the merest
would make a delicious sprtizl
hint of mint and orange
AP85 exploredrinks.com
227
Famous since 1824
ONLY GRANDERWHEN RAISEDIN HONOUR AND SHAREDBYALL
DRINKS
REDBREAST
JAMESON
12YO SINGLE POT STILL
BLACK BARREL SELECT RESERVE
AMERICAN WHISKEY
Region: Cork, Ireland
Region: Cork, Ireland
ABV 40.0% I RRP $100
ABV 40.0% I RRP $79
JACK DANIEL'S
A golden copper hue. Honeyed nose, almost
Dark golden mahogany in
SINGLE BARREL SELECT
golden syrup, developing
colour. Lovely aromas of
Region: Tennessee, USA
sweet vanilla and dark fruits
ABV 45.0% I RRP $99
into
stewed fruit like cooked apples and pear drops. Deliciously
like plums and berries, carried
Brassy reddish hue. That sour mash is at the
smooth roundness, dried
by rich charred American oaky
front, oakvanillins, lemondrop,
apricot and soft spices bursting
tannins. Some evidence of
tight and direct. Nice sweet
on the tongue. Distinctly Irish
sherry cask maturation from
entry, driedstrawberries,
in the velvety mouthfeel and
the signature dried fruit and
luxardo maraschino,
developing
dryish astringency. On the
varinish(good
the barley grain and pot-still
palate comes a bold flavour
sweet spice kicks in late.
characters on show The finish
of well-aged pot still whisky,
Fills the mouth well. Pepper
develops into gentle spiciness,
notes of dried apricot, dates
starts the finish, then more of
and honeyed sweetness right
that cherry, sarsaparilla style,
toffee notes, with
good length and perfectly soothing.
BD 92
age), great
through to the drying tannins
long tannin on the sides, no
on the finish. An excellent
banana's which is weird. Still
WEST CORK
Irish I Would go well in a
really tasty, though. GF 88
SINGLE MALT SHERRY CASK
Whiskey Sour or Irish Coffee.
Region: Cork, Ireland
BD 89
WILD TURKEY 101 KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON
ABV 40.0% I RRP $120 Golden hay and rose gold colour.
GREENORE
Region: Kentucky, USA
Aromas of toasted malt, Wonka
SINGLE GRAIN SMALL BATCH SYO
ABV 50.5% I RRP $65
toffee apple bars with a faint whiff
Region: Ireland
Dark Amber in colour. Opens
of peat On the palate, Monte
ABV 40.0% I RRP $100
up with aromas of roasted
Carlo jam, sweet honeysuckle,
Very pale straw colour. The
coconut husks up front. A
nose is rather subtle, perhaps
second inspection offers notes
peat shows up more here, drying the middle of the palate, with hints 111--.1-~-
'I
i
a smidge too muted. Open
of creamy panacotta. With
of gardenias. The finish is malty,
it up for the full effect. There
time some butterscotch
with dry oak tannins revealing a
are florals and a hint of nuts.
appear. On the palate, sweet
sherry cask influence. Aside from
An alluring texture. There is
being a bit thin on the palate, this
a slight wheaty note on first
is delicious, delicate and peated
tasting, but it does not linger.
perfectly for a light spirit GF 84
Rather, some honey emerges.
taste. Lots of toasted oak.
Good spirit. Has reasonable
Would make a very nice old
length. KG 90
fashioned. SM 85
SLANE
-
notes
toffee character transfers into some intense spice. A menthol note appears on the second
TRIPLE CASKED BLENDED Region: Ireland
TULLAMORE DEW
ELIJAH CRAIG
ABV 40.0% I RRP $60
TRIPLE DISTILLED
SMALL BATCH BOURBON
Light golden colour. Aromas
Region: Kentucky, USA
gentle aromas. Old leather. A
of green and red apples, leafy
ABV 47.0% I RRP $80 A meld of bronze/lemon/
Orange/gold
and honey. Soft,
little mustard seed. Old teak and
astringency and evidence of
some vanilla. There is noticeable
ex-bourbon
oak, but it is nicely integrated and
vanilla notes. The palate
with a very slight peppery note.
soft. Underneath, a character like
is crisp and smooth with
Some cumin and a lovely vanilla
a dying campfire. In the very nicest
balanced pot-still and grain
pod character. There is also a
way. Impressive texture. Good
whisky adding to a spicy and
freshly sawn wood note, mixed
spirit, if a smidge fiery. More of
subtle creamy mouthfeel. A
with some lovely varnished teak
those appealing vanillin nuances
delicious and approachable
and orange rind. On the palate
emerge on the palate. Moderate
Irish whiskey that makes for
there is a really appealing
length. Would appeal even more if
a good aperitif style drink,
texture. There is also a touch
it could maintain its intensity for a
mixed with soda or ginger
of a floral note emerging.
little longer. KG 89
ale. BD 87
is nicely balanced and there
American oak
golden colour. Aromas of spices
It
exploredrinks.com
229
DRINKS
WOODFORD RESERVE
SOUTHERN COMFORT
the impression of being a complete spirit. Has
DOUBLE CAKED BOURBON
BLACK
good length on the finish. KG 91
Region: Kentucky, USA
Region: USA
ABV 43.2% I RRP $76
ABV 40.0% I RRP $50
is noticeable but well integrated
spirit. Gives
WILD TURKEY
A dark mahogany colour Va nil Iin oak notes
Light mahogany colour. Fruity
LONG BRANCH
here. Orange blossoms. Some old teak. Richly
and peachy aromas with sweet
Region: Kentucky, USA
flavoured. There are notes here that give it the
stone fruits, sappy and even
ABV 43.0% I RRP $65
appearance of having a lot in common with a
bubble gum hints. The palate
Burnt gold mahogany coloured. Aromas are
very fine
concurs with nose, sweet, soft
well balanced with a blend of classic vanilla and
rum, from the drier end of the spectrum
macerated fruits, peach iced
oak spices. Lovely notes of charred oak. The
Creamy Texture which really impresses.
tea, blossom honey, golden
palate reveals flavours of
There is an appealing
syrup, viscous and clingy. Drink
caramel, pear, and hints of
bourbon. A little sweetness but everything
over ice with lemon twist or
citrus round out the smooth
is nicely balanced. That said, the impression
with a mixer, would be nice with
and subtle, smoky finish
of links to a fine rum is even stronger on the
tonic. YW 80
with a full bodied buttery
palate. There might be links to good rum
creaminess with a finish of gentle pepper and toasted
LONGB~~_!!ÂŁH ~
~~
I
exuberance about this
but this finish, with excellent length, is all bourbon.
KG 93
oak that lasts a good long
MICHTER'S SINGLE BARREL KENTUCKY STRAIGHT RYE
while. Perfect for sipping on
Bright rusty amber colour with aromas of a
Region: Kentucky, USA
the back porch as the sun
new leather jacket with
ABV 424% I RRP $125
goes down. BD 91
maple syrup, charred oak,
Whoa there horsy, let's back it up a little
I
cherries, nutmeg and Nail
Aromas of mint jelly, cherry pie and pine
WOODFORD RESERVE
polish. The palate has dark
forest. A palate of White oak shavings and a
STRAIGHT RYE
chocolate orange and
bitter herbal astringency tend to balance with
Region: Kentucky, USA
cherry apple crumble with
vanilla and sugar. Long, herbal and a prickling
ABV 45.2% I RRP $89
vanilla spice finish that's
spiciness on a very satisfying finish. I'd enjoy
Red Gold, bright colour. Aromas of oak char,
long lasting, deep dark
this playing a harmonica on the
spicy rye & cherry cola. The
and complex. Best enjoyed
front porch in the late summer
palate has sweet vanilla,
after dinner in an old
afternoon.
pepper, sugared almonds,
fashioned and a mellow
sawdust, clove, long & juicy.
cigar. JB 90
The higher alcohol helps here and done very well
MW 90
A rye, but a very balanced one compared to what we
MICHTER'S
usually see with rye of late.
Maybe a little simple, but
SMALL BATCH KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON
sometimes it's the simple
Region: Kentucky, USA
a hot day. Almost a barley in
things that work the best.
ABV 45.7% I RRP $125
the mix somewhere. Almonds,
with integrated
spirit & oak.
GF 87
BUFFALO TRACE
This is oaky, honeyed, and very balanced. Banana split on
Dark, amber colour. Aromas of leather and
dark chocolate, orange oil, and
tobacco, a bit earthy aromas, one of the more
turmeric spice. In a rocks glass,
complex noses. Hints of floor varnish but in a
maybe a cube of ice, on a warm
nice way. Sweetness up front,
afternoon.
KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON
then a lovely, slatey dry oak
Region: Kentucky, USA
flavour, the alcohol is hidden
ABV 40.0% I RRP $65
amongst the balance of oak,
MB 85
WOODFORD RESERVE CHERRY WOOD SMOKED BARLEY STRAIGHT BOURBON
Deep golden colour. Lovely
vanilla and fruit It lasts for a
slate kind of aroma, big
while, changes from sweet,
sweetness, lots of vanilla.
to tannin and then back to
Delicious palate, vanilla and
sweet. Very pleasant This
Region: Kentucky, USA
oak, little bit of spice with
would be my choice for an
ABV 45.2% I RRP $225
the sweetness of candied
everyday drinker, that would
Dusty aromas of sawdust,
apples. Can enjoy this with
still impress most people.
burnt flour and sugar crusted short crust apple pie. Very dry
Soda, cocktails, neat, staff
I think straight, in a glass
shots. Seems very versatile.
would be the best way to
on the first sip. Take another.
DR 92
enjoy. DR 96
The palate builds to sweet
230 exploredrinks.com
PAUL JOHN
steak proteins. The winds picking up that dry
giving their own twist on a classic style Scottish
sawdust again. Country roads, lumber mills and
malt. Reminds me of sitting in your great uncles
pickup trucks. Be sure to pack a red and white
darkened living room while an old shellacked
flannelette
steamer trunk used as a coffee table stares
Region: Goa, India
hauntingly back at you. MW 85
ABV 46.0% I RRP $90
check shirt and tell the missus you
won't be home for supper. MW 91
'BRILLIANCE' INDIAN SINGLE MALT
Faint Gold. Peanut Brittle
MELLOW CORN KENTUCKY STRAIGHT CORN WHISKY
1
Golden straw, dried hay, dried
CANADIAN WHISKY
mangoes, apricot, funky ..
almost overripe sour fruits
Region: USA
in the background.
Solid
ABV 50.0% I RRP $70
LOT40
mouthfeel,
BBQ charred corn cobs in
RYE WHISKY
the tongue, more salty peanut
the husks. Love this edible
Region: Ontario, Canada
brittle, savoury finish, touch of
nose. Seriously viscous, rich
ABV 43.0% I RRP $85
white pepper. Straight or with a
and thick. Gets a little sharp
Copper mahogany in colour.
touch of water. YW 86
in the palate as a hidden
Earthy aromas and up front rye
spice appears extending
out
oily, malty, heavy on
J.P. WISER'S PIKE CREEK WHISKY
spice balanced with citrus peel
for some time. Get me some
and oak gives a sign that this is
ground pork, chilli spice,
serious rye whisky. Lovely notes
Region: Ontario, Canada
onion, tomatoes, coriander
caramel flan, fig jam and burnt
ABV 40% I RRP 72.00
and corn. We have a Chilli Con
orange peel oils. The palate
Reddish amber in colour, with subtle aromas of
is soft and floral as it opens,
grapes, raisins, dried apricots and fleshy plums,
leading into a world of spices,
with some decent underlying rye peppery spice,
Carne to stew
I
MW 89
JAPANESE
cardamom pod and peppery
hints of toffee and burnt
coriander leaf. Crunchy brown
sugar. On the palate there
sugar and fresh vanilla pod
is nice dried fruit medley,
sweetness. On the finish the
vanilla and subtle oak and a
NIKKA
classic rye spiciness lingers.
faint red wine characters in
COFFEY GRAIN
Makes a banging whisky sour.
the background
Region: Japan
BD90
bodied sweetness overall.
with a full
ABV 45.0% I RRP $130
Nice length on the finish,
A light golden colour with
accentuated
slightly sweet aromas, with traces of caramel and vanilla.
INDIAN WHISKY RAMPUR
chuck of ice. BD. 84
A grain whisky that presents
INDIAN SINGLE MALT WHISKY NON-CHILL FILTERED VINTAGE SELECT CASKS
some oakiness and earthy
Region: India
notes alongside a subtle gentle
ABV 43.0% I RRP $100
presented across the palate - gentle spice and nuttiness.
backbone. A little short, but the
Rich amber colour. Nutty,
extra punch of the 45% lingers
aromas with trail mix, dried
on the finish. AP 87
oaky tones lingering. Makes a decent sipper, with a big
An elegant, creamy palate with grainy flavours smoothly
by the port
barrel finish leaves sweet
AUSTRALIAN WHISKY SULLIVANS COVE AMERICAN OAK SINGLE CASK
apricots, vibrant peach, woody straw. Interesting
NIKKA WHISKY
palate with a lot going
PURE MALT TAKETSURU
on searching for balance,
Region: Japan
Chinese herbal medicine, old
ABV 43.0% I RRP $130
cupboards, sweet fruit, citrus,
-~
RAMPUR
Region: Cambridge, Tasmania
ABV 47.5% I RRP $330 Deep Golden yellow colour
SELECT -
with aromas of golden
Heavy malt displaying notes
bitter earthiness empty mid
of coffee and pine turpentine.
palate. Could enjoy straight or
and fruit toast on a malting
Heavily weighted towards
mixed. YW 80
floor. The palate is lavender
syrup over hot crumpets
those sharp yet dark rustic
floral, creamy goats cheese
notes. Long, dry and tannic. A
on crisp-breads or a pepper
fusion enjoyed by Japanese,
lavosh cracker with red
232
exploredrinks.com
DRINKS onion and ripe stone-fruit, with a finish that's
note emerged on the palate. Nicely balanced, if
notes. Spices, plums, cherries, cassia bark.
very complex with notes of buttery shortbread,
a little oaky. Soft finish with reasonable length,
Classic Tasmanian single cask richness and
malty and yeasty and very long lasting. I
though the overall impression is that it is a little
could drink this outside on a summers day in
solid/chunky.
KG 89
the country with a big plate of buttery bread getting in tune with nature. Loved this
II
character in abundance. Rich long finish, fading to a dryness of attractive tannins which come from the small cask maturation.
JB 97
Each Small Cask
release is released as a single cask, variance in
TASMANIAN WHISKY
the flavour of whisky between releases should
STARWARD
be expected.
DISTILLERS TASTING NOTES
WINE CASK SINGLE MALT
SULLIVANS COVE
Region: Melbourne, Victoria Bananas and cinnamon and
NONESUCH RYE WHISKY
spice, a bit of lifted alcohol.
100% RYE
Location: Tasmania
Bit more obvious alcohol on
Location: Tasmania
ABV 47.5% I RRP $330
the palate, still sweet with
ABV 46.5% I RRP $155
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Malt,
spice: Sweetness turns into a
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Creamy and
vanilla, white flowers and
dry pepper finish, quite short.
buttery, ripe tropical fruits like
wood shop. Caramel,
Either neat, bold enough
passion fruit and durian, grainy,
pound cake and apricots.
to hold up in a bunch of
fresh dough, sultanas, soft Xmas
Lingering malt texture and
cocktails. DR 90
spices, jelly beans and icing for
powerful oak finish.
ABV 41.0% I RRP $90
AMERICAN OAK SINGLE CASK
cakes, a little bit floral grainy and
SULLIVANS COVE
TRAPPERS HUT
malty, slightly peppery, green wood, milk chocolate and vanilla,
FRENCH OAK SINGLE CASK
spicy with a creamy texture, almonds, green
Region: Cambridge,
texture, salivating, quite long
Location: Tasmania
Tasmania
and intense with grainy attitudes.
ABV 45.0% I RRP $295
walnuts and wet hay warming, spicy, creamy
SINGLE MALT CASK LD 601
ABV 47.5% I RRP $450
Different from your classic
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Delicate
Golden Hue. Aromas of
American Ryes.
floral notes with a hint of vanilla. Soft & warming, rolls
white peach, peach cobbler, vanilla. On the palate, sweet
HELLYERS ROAD
honey on the front opens up
10YO - SLIGHTLY PEATED
to some underlying spice.
Location: Tasmania
Candied orange comes through on the mid
ABV 46.2% I RRP $120
Brioche, light honey and
beautifully across the palate, a smooth well balanced
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Subtly smoky plumes form fading
this would be a great place to start. An early
campfire. Citrus tones of lemon
and melon. SM 90
HELLYERS ROAD
and orange transcending
Limited Release American Oak cask 280 Bottle Release.
opening whisky. If you were to have a few then night whisky. Would go well with
single malt. Long & smooth
,,£,';.';!. }lf1 .,,..,.. .,.
palate. Finishes with a little peppery spice. Nice
prosciutto
I
OVEREEM SINGLE MALT PORT CASK MATURED
to a
vanilla sweetness. Creamy with a
Location: Tasmania
lingering smokiness. Champion
ABV 43.0% I RRP $210
Australian Single Malt - 2018
DISTILLER'S NOTE:
Distilled Spirit Awards.
Chocolate covered raisins,
OLD KEMPTON
Turkish delight, creme
PINOT NOIR FINISH
caramel, butterscotch,
Region: Burnie, Tasmania
SMALL CASK RELEASE (PORT CASK)
brulee and plum pudding.
Bronze/orange/mahogany colour. Nutty nose. Some
Location: Tasmania
spiced plum pudding,
obvious oak. Quite heavy oak-
ABV 46.0% I RRP $220
orange rind, wood smoke,
this will be a little off-putting
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Rich
ABV 46.2% I RRP $100
for
Creamy, chocolate, mocha,
Christmas cake, caramel,
some, but others will appreciate
leather and coffee/mocha.
the style. There are also some
and raisins with orange, fruit
hay and almond notes. And a
pudding
little biscotti An orange/biscuity
bold and robust dark chocolate
liquorice and malted barley,
Rum
and pantry spices. Big
__ _,...,~-·~
Vanilla bean and spiced raisins. Complex and Intriguing. exploredrinks.com
233
DRINKS
LARK
SHENE ESTATE MACKEY
CLASSIC CASK SINGLE MALT
SINGLE MALT, TAWNY CASK MATURED (FRENCH OAK)
Location: Hobart, Tasmania
ABV 43.0% I RRP $145
MCHENRY SINGLE MALT WHISKY Location: Tasmania
ABV 46.2% I RRP $280
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Golden syrup and vanilla
Location: Tasmania
DISTILLER'S NOTE: A
with hints of oranges and grapefruit.
ABV 49.0% I RRP $280
youthful nose of citrus and
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Malty, rich, toffee, spice
vanilla. Soft on the palate,
cake, cinnamon sticks,
and raisin notes - Christmas plum pudding. The
hints sweetness and rich,
nutmeg and a wisp
palate is rich and full-bodied.
multi-layered
of Tasmanian peat
Sweet, malty, brown sugar,
pudding,
Plum
Christmas
smoke. Sweet vanilla
it gives way to spices (anise,
transforms into a heady
pepper, coffee), then finishes
combination
with dark stone fruit, apple
of orange
flavours.
SPRING BAY 'THE RHEBAN' PORT CASK
peel, butterscotch,
and raisins. Good balance,
Location: Spring Bay, Tasmania
cloves, nutmeg and
smooth clean finish, with
ABV 58.0% I RRP $225
grapefruit.
spicy dried fruit and vanilla
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Sweet
aftertaste lingering. Making
and complex aromas suggest
Butterscotch
and citrus notes with a long, satisfying
our own Shene Estate whisky
butterscotch
smoky finish.
wash on site allows us to
muscatels. Sweet caramel
enhancetheflavourofour
syrup and plum pudding
NANT
single malt whisky
spices join a clean, bright
SINGLE MALT (FRENCH OAK AND SHERRY CASK)
LAUNCESTON
spreads across the palate to
and Christmas
alcohol explosion which
DISTILLERY SINGLE MALT WHISKY APERA CASK MATURED
settle in and glow with some
ABV 43.0% I RRP $165 DISTILLER'S NOTE: Rich
Location: Launceston,
cherry cordial and some
and inviting. Hints of raisins,
Tasmania
nutty undertones that
cinnamon, syrup and
ABV 46.0% I RRP $156
clearly displays.
Location: Tasmania
soft oaky tannins. Hints of
liquorice. Complex flavours
DISTILLER'S NOTE: An
of sultanas and ginger nut
engaging fragrant aroma, with
biscuits. Buttery caramel
Apera influenced notes of
BELGROVE RYE WHISKY
tones develop in the glass
dried fruit, spice and a hint
100% RYE
giving you an inviting
of oak. Displays a soft
Location: Kempton, Tasmania
Christmas-like feeling. A
mouthfeel and subtle dry
ABV 46.5% I RRP $155
strong spice flavour, oak
Fino style flavours of fruit
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Bright
and hints of butterscotch.
and gentle spice. A pleasant
gold appearance. Immediately
lingering finish.
appealing and distinctive with
17 YEAR SINGLE MALT
KILLARA
Second pass offers chamomile tea, hints of boiled lolly, cedary
CRADLE MOUNTAIN
its dill/
pickle opening scents.
Location: Cradle Mountain,
SINGLE MALT WHISKY
Tasmania
Location: Tasmania
oak and peppermint.
ABV 43%
ABV Varies I RRP $220
silky entry follows through to a super smooth and quite delicate
A light,
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Citrus
DISTILLER'S NOTE: Sweet with
fruit, lemon-grass, and hay
notes of caramel smooth, rich,
profile featuring medium dry
aromas. Soft body with citrus
hints of warming spice, dried
flavours of chamomile tea, sour
fruit skins and lemongrass.
fruits and malt. Long with full
dough bread and unusual notes
Smooth clean palate. Surge
bodied mouthfeel.
of mustard and pepper. This
cask release will be slightly
tannic finish. Aftertaste
rare whisky is only available
different and released at the
but shows good length
from time to time on line by
strength that allows the whisky
special request.
to shine.
234
exploredrinks.com
Each single
of dill and caraway. Dry, mildly is subtle
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