Gucci Trends Analysis

Fashion in Context Assignment 3: Gucci Outfit Appraisal

Hollie Tansey ID:200923491

4th May 2017

CONTENTS

4 Introduction

5 A/W 16/17 Outfit: Look 62 6 The Dress 7 The Dress (continued) 8 The Embellishment 9 The Shoes and Bag 10 S/S 17 Outfit: Look 42 11 The Shirt and Trousers 12 The Shirt and Trousers (continued) 13 The Sunglasses 14 The Platform Shoes

15 Conclusion

16 References 17 Image References 18 Image References (continued)

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3

INTRODUCTION

Alessandro Michele’s collections for Gucci AW16/17 and SS17 have many similarities. According to Foley (2015), Michele regards the Gucci logo as a pop culture symbol of luxury, which could be why he has used it a lot on the accessories in his collection, such as the bags and sunglasses.

Whilst the collections have inspiration from different periods of time, both feature a multitude of colours, exciting patterns, and extravagant pieces. Michele is inspired by the past and has a passion for prints and embroidery alongside mixing and matching different trends from the past within one collection (Foley, 2015).

Inspiration for Michele’s collections have been acquired from many eras (Mower, 2016), for example he stated bourgeois Renaissance, 80s Renaissance, 70s sport, Italian and French couture and Catherine de Medici all as inspirations for the AW 16/17 collection (Michele, 2016).

This reflects Michele’s eccentricity and creativity when it comes to his designs, as he hasn’t stuck to one inspiration, but combines such a huge range of aspects which allows him to create unique and innovative collections.

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A/W 16/17 OUTFIT: LOOK 62

 

Look 62 in the A/W 16/17 collection is a pink and dark green mini dress with ruffled sleeves and pearl embellishments, paired with pearl embellished black and grey snakeskin Mary Jane style shoes, white studded sunglasses and a crystal-embellished Dionysus in python leather.

Michele’s AW 16/17 collection has a running theme of Renaissance style; this outfit combines Renaissance style jewellery and 1920s inspired shoes with a late1960s style dress and a new take on the Dionysus handbag.

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THE DRESS

The mini dress is inspired by the late 1960s and early 1970s, a time where hemlines increasingly moved up the leg, above the knee and to the thigh. Mini skirts were revolutionary at the time, as confirmed by Ewing and Mackrell (2001, p.181): It was the ultimate in youthful assertion and bravado. It defied fashion’s natural changes and became a way of life for its faithful followers. It sent all other fashionable skirts up to the knees from 1966 to the end of the decade.

The revolutionary element of the mini dress has disappeared now, with the style saturating the market, however the colours of the dress are also inspired by the era. The bubble gum pink is a reference to the bright colours of the 1960s, and the dark green references the 1970s earth tones. However, both shades were seen in WGSN’s Material Trade Show Round Up for A/W 16 too, so were prominent in the textiles industry for that season, almost giving them renewed modern status, despite being popular in past eras.

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THE DRESS The sleeves of the dress - whilst likely to be influenced by the Victorian trend of puffs, frills and ruffles - could be seen as a nod to Michele’s interest in French and Italian couture (Michele, 2016) as ruffles are often seen in couture catwalks with notable collections featuring statement ruffles and frills including Givenchy SS10, Balmain SS16 and Giambattista Valli AW12. However, the material used for the dress is wool with elastane, so it gives the ruffles a more structured and casual look as opposed to silk or chiffon, giving ruffles a more comfortable and wearable advantage. The elastane also means the sleeves remain tight to the arm, allowing the ruffles to stand out more.

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THE DRESS EMBELLISHMENT

As Michele had previously said, some elements of his collection are inspired by the Renaissance and the pearl necklaces embellished on the dress are an example of this. In Italy in the Renaissance, jewellery was a vital part of women’s dress, with trimmings and embroidery – as seen on the Gucci dress – being an integral part of a fashionable outfit. Pearls were often used, especially on the neckline (Herald, 1981). In Britain pearls were a part of style in the English Renaissance too, where women wore long strands of pearls. An example is Queen Elizabeth I in the Rainbow Portrait wearing pearls and an enamel and jewelled cross pendant.

The Gucci pearl embellishment and jewelled pendants have a vintage effect and appear not to be updated or reinterpreted in any way.

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THE SHOES AND BAG

Whilst the pearl and stud embellishment on the shoes ties the outfit together, as it matches the necklace embellishment on the dress, the actual shoe appears to be inspired by Mary Jane shoes. Mary Janes were popular in the 1920s, as shown with the shoes below from the Met Museum Archives.

The bag is a reworked version of the Dionysus, which was introduced in Autumn Winter 2015 and new versions have been created over each season. This bag features Gucci’s classic bamboo handle which was introduced in 1947 (WWD, 2010). The rest of the bag doesn’t reference any particular part of history, as the Dionysus is such a new design – it features the ‘L’aveugle’ which is a reference to Gucci’s trademark quote ‘L’aveugle par amour’ which features on many products and translates as ‘Blind for love’.

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S/S 17 OUTFIT: LOOK 42

Look 42 in the SS17 Gucci collection is a matching silk shirt and flared trouser suit, resembling pyjamas. The set is black and pink Romain print, with a relief effect. The outfit is paired with black jewel embellished platform loafers and oversized black sunglasses . The outfit combines a range of trends: pyjamas as daywear, embellishment and platform shoes being the three main trends seen. The era the outfit most prominently echoes is arguably the 1970s, due to the flared trousers and chunky platform heels. However, there are elements of the 1930s too.

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THE SHIRT AND TROUSERS

Alessandro Michele has embraced the pyjamas as daywear trend with the ‘Romain’ print matching loose fit shirt and trousers. According to Boddy et al (2016) there is “increased crossover between nightwear and daywear” as seen in this outfit; whilst the outfit could be seen as nightwear, it is dressed up as daywear with platform heels and sunglasses. The pyjama trend originated in the 1920s and 30s. Parkinson (2016) states that Coco Chanel was the pioneer of this trend as it enabled women to dress comfortably whilst looking elegant. This trend is said to have been reintroduced on the catwalks in 2009, becoming popular in 2011 (Fitzpatrick, 2013) and has stayed strong since.

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THE SHIRT AND TROUSERS

Despite the matching set resembling pyjamas, the Gucci trousers are more structured than the beach trousers seen in the 1930s which were baggy and free flowing (British Pathé, 2011), most being palazzo style. The trousers in Look 42 are flared, showing Michele took inspiration from the 1970s too. Vogue (1972, p.45) described all wide leg trousers as the “era’s natural phenomenon” whilst Dirix and Fiell (2014, p.29) regard flared trousers as the “most distinctive look of the seventies”. The product description of the trousers states that they have a ‘pleated bell on the leg opening’ (Gucci, 2017a) which gives them a subtler bell-bottom shape compared to the loons also seen in the 1970s, described to have 25-inch flares (Reed, 2012).

So, whilst Michele has referenced the pyjama trend, which evolved in the 1930s, he has also taken inspiration from the 1970s, so has combined two eras to create a unique take on the pyjama trend.

Not only has he referenced two eras, but has also referenced two different styles and sub cultures within the outfit. The flared trousers and platform shoes are recognised as Glam Rock fashion, and the “Modern Future” slogan embellishment on the shirt is possibly a reference to Punk sub culture also seen in the 1970s, as they are noted to have emblazoned their jackets and t-shirts with slogans, often making political statements (Dirix and Fiell, 2014). WGSN fashion forecasters have recently noted that the slogan trend has been reintroduced, still with some punk undertones but reinterpreted in various ways: on smarter jackets and shirts rather than on leather or denim jackets; and humorous slogans as opposed to political statements (Smith, 2015; Watkins, 2016; Watkins and Smith, 2016).

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THE SUNGLASSES  

Whilst the platform shoes are possibly the most extravagant piece in Look 42, the sunglasses also make a statement. The range of exciting accessories available in the 1970s reflected the whole fashion industry during this time and the way it allowed individuals to express themselves in such creative and unique ways (Dirix and Fiell, 2014), seen with large bold frames which appear to be the inspiration behind the Gucci sunglasses.

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THE PLATFORM SHOES

Platform shoes are a trend which have faded in and out of fashion over time. Dirix and Fiell (2014, p.334) argue that the 1970s is “mostly remembered for its platform shoes”. The sheer size of platform shoes (such as in figures x and x) seen on Glam Rock and disco stars in the 1970s makes it understandable why they are so memorable and the embellishment of plastic and glass jewels, metal studs and sequins were used to make the shoes stand out even more (Delis Hill, 2010). Reed (2012, p.50) describes the way platform shoes became mainstream - perhaps even normal - fashion in the 1970s: By the end of the decade nothing was too much: not the exaggerated bulgy toes, the flaring heels, nor the outrageously curvaceous soles.

‘Paint your own platforms’ got full-page features in Vogue, and colourful metallic piecing, patchwork and embroidery became run of the mill.

The Gucci platform shoes fit in with the description yet are still a unique interpretation on the 70s platform. ‘Nothing was too much’ could be Michele’s motto too, an example being the floral lining of the shoes - a feature that adds another special and unique touch.

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CONCLUSION

Alessandro Michele’s designs for Gucci have successfully combined a wide range of inspirations from the past into coherent yet unexpected and wonderful collections. As Foley (2017, p.15) puts it: For all their visual overstatement, the glory was in the details, the craft, the countless subtle creative ideas and choices … these clothes were more than the latest iterations of the madcap wackiness of a mad fashion alchemist.

They are carefully considered, exquisitely rendered adventures in real fashion.

Within both the A/W 16/17 and the S/S 17 collections Michele has demonstrated a flair for plucking iconic trends from the past and giving them a modern update through the use of current trends, such as the embroidery trend. Many of the trends seen in the chosen outfits were iconic in their eras – whether worn by influential people, such as Coco Chanel or Twiggy, or having a revolutionary effect on the way people dressed. Furthermore, Michele has cleverly embraced the more daring trends of the past or given them an extravagant update - such as the studded platform loafers and the mini dress – which ensures the collections have an abundance of distinctive and exciting pieces, thus confirming Gucci’s reputation as a daring and unique brand which standouts among other fashion brands in the competitive modern fashion industry.

Word Count: 1825

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REFERENCES

Boddy, J, Coleman, C and Ketteniss, V. 2016. Big Ideas AW17/18. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/ content/board_viewer/#/64221/page/2

Mower, S. 2016. Fall 2016 Ready To Wear GUCCI. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: http:// www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-towear/gucci

British Pathé. 2011. Beauty and the Beach: A Guide to Pajama Dressing. [Online]. [Accessed 18/4/17].

Available from: https://britishpathe.wordpress.com/ 2011/09/15/beauty-and-the-beach-a-guide-to-pyjamadressing/

Parkinson, J. 2016. When pyjamas ruled the fashion world. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-35427892

Delis Hill, D. 2010. American Women’s Fashions 1970-1979. IN: Eicher, J.B. and Tortora, P.G. Berg Encyclopaedia of World Dress and Fashion. [Online].

[Accessed 17/4/17]. Available from: https:// www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/bergfashion-library/whats-in-the-berg-fashion-library/bergencyclopedia-world-dress-and-fashion

Reed, P. 2012. Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed the 1970s: Design Museum Fifty. London: Conran, p28.

Smith, K. 2015. Seasonal Trade Show Round Up AW15/16 – Print and Pattern. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/ #/58961/page/16 Vogue. 1972. Pants naturally. Vogue. 160(2), p45.

Dirix, E. and Fiell, C. 2014. 1970s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook. London: Goodman Fiell, pp.

29-335.

Ewing, E. and Mackrell, A. 2001. A History of Twentieth Century Fashion. 4th Edition. London: Batsford Ltd, p.

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Fitzpatrick, T. 2013. The Enduring Appeal of Pajama Dressing. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ intelligence/the-enduring-appeal-of-pajama-dressing Foley, B. 2015. Gucci’s New Day. Women’s Wear Daily.

209(92), pp.32-22.

Foley, B. 2017. Gucci. Women’s Wear Daily. 2017 Milan Special Edition, p.15.

Gucci. 2017a. Romain silk pant. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/ en_gb/pr/women/womens-ready-to-wear/womenspants-shorts/womens-pants/romain-print-silk-pantp-464971ZIX461109? listName=LookDetailsCarouselComponent&position=2

Herald, J. 1981. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500.

London: Bell & Hyman, pp.175-184 Michele, A. 2016. AW16 Collection Inspiration. 24 February 2016, Milan Fashion Week, Milan.

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Watkins, H. 2016. Retail Analysis: Print And Graphics Autumn 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/ content/board_viewer/#/68621/page/4 Watkins, H. and Smith, K. Las Vegas Trade Shows AW16/17 – Prints and Graphics. [Online]. [Accessed 20/4/17]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/ #/64734/page/7 WWD. 2010. Gucci: A History Lesson. [Online].

IMAGE REFERENCES Cover page: SS17 Look 42. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/lo/runway/women/springsummer-2017-runway-c-runway-women-spring-summer-2017-runway AW16/17 Look 62. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/lo/runway-c-runway Gucci pattern used throughout. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: https://www.createacake.com.au/gucci-patternsheet.html Contents page: Madison Stubbington in Gucci AW16/17 Dress. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://shinebythree.com/2016/11/ gucci-maddison-stubbington-london/ Page 3 Gucci SS17 Photos (pink background). 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2017-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection/ Gucci AW16 Photos (black background). 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2016-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection/ Page 5 Look 62. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2016-ready-to-wear/gucci/ collection/ Page 6 Twiggy in Green Mini Dress: Vogue. 1967. Fashion: The Daring New Fashion Romantic. Vogue. 150(2), p.60.

Madison Stubbington in Gucci (2 photos): Margaret Zhang for Grazia Australia. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http:// shinebythree.com/2016/11/gucci-maddison-stubbington-london/ 1960s and 1970s colour palettes: Pantone. 2013. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://www.pantone.com/pages/ pantone.aspx?pg=21126 Colour Forecast Palettes: Spinexpo via WGSN. 2015. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/63205/page/4 Page 7 Madison Stubbington in Gucci AW16/17 Dress. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://shinebythree.com/2016/11/ gucci-maddison-stubbington-london/ Givenchy SS10 Couture short cream frill dress. 2010. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://searchingforstyle.com/ 2010/01/givenchy-haute-couture-spring-summer-2010/ Giambattista Valli AW12 Couture Greenfrrill dress [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://www.thefashionspot.com/runwaynews/174683-giambattista-valli-haute-couture-fall-2012/#/slide/28 Balmain SS16 Couture long white frill dress. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: http://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/ runway-report/the-shows/ready-to-wear/2015/10/balmain-ss16-rtw/balmain-ss16-rtw-image-56/ Page 8 Closeup of AW16/17 Dress. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/ca/women/womensready-to-wear/womens-dresses-c-women-readytowear-dresses Purple pendant from the Renaissance. Circa 1550 -1560. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/ O72006/the-gatacre-jewel-pendant-unknown/ Queen Elizabeth I with Pearl Jewellery in her Rainbow Portrait. Circa 1600-1602. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http:// www.hatfield-house.co.uk/house-park-garden/the-house/the-rainbow-portrait/

 

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IMAGE REFERENCES Page 9 Gucci Bamboo Bag: Gucci. 1947. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/gucci-at-90/# Gucci Embroidered Dionysus Python Bag. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://www.mytheresa.com/en-gb/dionysussnakeskin-top-handle-bag-692762.html?gclid=COjO47DnxNMCFbEK0wod7l0Eiw T Bar Cream Shoes. Circa1920s. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/ 113471?sortBy=Relevance&when=A.D.+1900-present&what=Costume %7cShoes&ft=1920s&offset=20&rpp=20&pos=23 Snakeskin T Bar Shoes. Circa late 1920s. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/ 113561?sortBy=Relevance&when=A.D.+1900-present&what=Costume %7cShoes&ft=1920s&offset=20&rpp=20&pos=25 Page 10 SS17 Look 42. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 24/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/lo/runway/women/springsummer-2017-runway-c-runway-women-spring-summer-2017-runway Page 11 Coco Chanel in Beach Trousers. 1930. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/ TMG11474902/How-Breton-tops-and-nautical-style-sailed-into-our-wardrobes.html Women in Beach Pajamas. Circa 1930. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://britishpathe.wordpress.com/2011/09/15/ beauty-and-the-beach-a-guide-to-pyjama-dressing/ Gucci Outfit. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/lo/runway/women/springsummer-2017-runway/look-42-p-SS17_FSWLook42EU Page 12 Gucci Modern Future Embroidery on Shirt. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/pr/women/womens-ready-to-wear/womens-tops-shirts/womens-long-sleeve-shirts/romaine-print-silkshirt-p-470990ZID731109?position=23&listName=ProductGridComponent&categoryPath=Women/Womens-Ready-to-Wear/WomensTops-Shirts 1970s punk jacket with slogan ‘It’s called anarchy a****hole’. Circa 1970s. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http:// flashbak.com/a-duty-to-offend-1970s-punk-jackets-41008/ Modern example of punk inspired slogans on shirts. 2015. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/62651/page/4 Page 13 Polaroid Sunglasses Print Advert. Circa 1960s. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://pzrservices.typepad.com/ vintageadvertising/vintage_eyewear_advertising/ Oscar de la Renta Sunglasses advert. 1977. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://www.flickr.com/photos/combomphotos/ 4399829780/ Gucci Mother of Pearl Sunglasses. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/pr/women/ womens-accessories/womens-sunglasses/womens-oversized/oversize-sunglasses-with-mother-of-pearl-details-p-470469J07401012? position=3&listName=ProductGridComponent&categoryPath=Women/Womens-Accessories/Womens-Sunglasses Page 14 Gucci Crystal Studded Leather Platform Loafer. 2017. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/pr/ women/womens-shoes/womens-pumps/crystal-studded-leather-loafer-p-465990C9D001000? position=24&listName=ProductGridComponent&categoryPath=Women/Womens-Shoes/Womens-Pumps Dasaje do Brasil Platform shoes. 1973. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/ 156364?sortBy=Relevance&what=Costume%7cShoes&ft=platform+shoes&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=4 Patchwork Platform Shoes. Circa 1970s. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://www.lefashion.com/2015/09/1970s-streetstyle-photos.html Women in platform shoes. Circa 1970s. [Online]. [Accessed 25/4/17]. Available from: http://www.lefashion.com/2015/09/1970s-streetstyle-photos.html

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