Welcome to Wallowa

Welcome to Wallowa Tony NiccoliBy

There’s a story about Heather learning to walk, and in many ways it’s a perfect metaphor for a lot her personality. I first heard it from her dad, Joe when I initially met him on my very first trip to Idaho. It seems that young Heather had been a late bloomer when it came to walking. She would crawl at a pretty high speed, and she would get herself up onto two feet and hold furniture to keep her balance. But she would never actually take that first step and walk. It wasn’t dramatically late, just curious since she had picked up crawling and standing so quickly.

And then, one day when the family was on vacation down by Lake Wallowa, Heather was sitting on the grass as a few deer walked up. She looked over at the family, smiled, and jumped up to her feet. Before they even realized what was going on, Heather took off running for the deer. And Joe really made sure to emphasize this part – she didn’t walk, she actually ran for her first steps. Arms outstretched, chasing after a baby deer that waited until the last minute to turn and run. But if you’ve ever been to Joseph, Oregon and the Wallowa area, then hearing that a little family of deer was completely unafraid of an approaching human might just not sound as incredible as a sprinting baby. And if you haven’t made it down there yet, this summer might be just the perfect excuse to get away for a few days. When Heather and I decided to go a few years back, we found that it just kept getting pushed out farther as we tackled the seemingly endless to-do list that was governing our lives. But we always said that we definitely were going, just as soon as a weekend freed-up and our schedules for the shop and magazine aligned. Finally, last fall, when we just couldn’t wait anymore, we cleared out a few days and hopped in the car.

The way there has almost a much to see as Wallowa itself. You start with the drive south, following the Snake River past Asotin, and through some absolutely gorgeous countryside on your way to the Rattlesnake Grade.

Now normally, when we take a road trip, I have a look at the map beforehand. Partially because I have always loved, and am still completely fascinated with maps – and partially to make sure that there won’t be too many switchbacks or curves on our route. If I do spot something that looks particularly windy, I take into account the fact that Heather can often get car-sick and try to find an alternate route.

With a quick glance at the map to Enterprise and Joseph I felt pretty certain that it was all smooth sailing, and just a comfortable straight-shot south. Nothing to worry about.

So as we passed the sleepy little town of Anatone, Washington (you may know them as the place with a population sign that lists people, dogs, cats, and horses – all with pretty similar representations) I was just enjoying the chance to get out on the road and let a few miles slip by while taking in some of the beauty that we are so lucky to have here in the Pacific Northwest.

And then it just crept up on us! Turns out, that straight line on the map is actually punctuated with an incredibly condensed set of turns going down one side of a steep canyon and back up the other. It’s just so tightly wound that on the map view it looks like a straight line. Zoom in a bit and you find one awe-inspiring drive that has views for days. Fortunately, Heather took it like a champ that day and wasn’t sick at all. And shortly after reaching the top were treated to a historical view out across the unspoiled land below at the Joseph Canyon Viewpoint. The signs there give you a great glimpse into the lives of the Nez Perce that used to call this area home, and the annual trek they made though this rugged wilderness. And then, just as we were ready to be done driving for the day, it was an easy cruise into Enterprise, and then onto Joseph where we stopped for lunch. A lot of the signs were calling to us, but we decided to just park in the middle of town, stretch our legs a little, and have a quick sneak-peak at the shops around Joseph while we let our noses point us to lunch.

We looked in a few windows, but kept most of the shopping for later, and eventually passed by a place called Embers Brew House. I’m really glad that we stopped – the food was exactly what I was hoping for. An outside table, in the shade, with a huge list of beers on tap sealed the deal. I had a burger, Heather went for a wrap, and we started with some fried pickles. I loved all of it, and hope to get back soon to try some of the tacos. Our bellies full, and afternoon pressing on, we decided to check into our hotel and then go sit by the lake. Wallowa means winding water, and as the river gently flows into the lake you can easily see where it gets the name. Our hotel – the Wallowa Lake Lodge was exactly what we needed for a few days away. It’s a historic lodge that sits just at the south end of the lake and feels like you have traveled back in time. We loved everything about our stay there, but our favorite part was definitely the long yard out back that is full of plenty of chairs for lazing away the day, and leads all the way to the shores of the lake.

The lake itself has some pretty cool mystique as well. First, it’s the final burial place for Old Chief Joseph. Though the Nez Pierce had already been forced out of the area by 1877, a few years after his death, its back at the head of the foot where his memorial sits today. When his first burial had been desecrated, some local residents lobbied to reserve a safe space there, and his remains were moved in 1926. He now sits on a little rise, just above the north bank of the lake with a view across the valley and the carved canyon sides that enclose the area. And the lake, originally dug out by glaciers in the last ice age, holds what might just be a relic from an even earlier era. Much, much earlier! Some stories claim that like its counterpart in Scotland, Loch Ness, here in Oregon we have a remnant from the Mesozoic era swimming about deep below, and skillfully avoiding our best attempts at detection. Nessie’s cousin – Wally – is said to be hump shaped and by some accounts as much as 20 feet long. The story of Big Wally originates with the tribes living in the area. One sighting remembers the love of young man and woman who had been separated because of their families being from the Nez Perce and Blackfeet tribes. After the two were united, and rowed into the-lake together, both tribes witnessed the great serpent rising out of the water and violently destroying the boat. Neither were ever found. In 1885 the local newspaper had an account from a prospector that was deemed to be credible but refused to give his name publically, and through the following decades the story spread. More sightings have been reported, the most famous being in 1978 when it was spotted as three humps rising out of the water as the creature swam. We took a good look out at the lake that evening on our way to dinner but ultimately weren’t able to spot anything. Still, I’d be just a little leery of paddling around there myself. The next morning, we got coffee and some breakfast and headed out onto the deck behind the lodge to watch the deer having their breakfast. I knew that this was just down the road from where Heather took her first run, and wondered if some of the deer might just be the descendants of the ones that patiently stood still all those years ago, letting her get almost close enough to grab one. When we walked by they picked up their heads for just a moment and then went back to grazing as I lined up a photo. We invited the deer to join us that afternoon for a little adventure but they seemed disinterested so-

We had our own little rail car – a tandem seating for two with a set of pedals. It looked a little like a lunar rover, but in this case the big rubber wheels were perfectly spaced to hug an old, out-of-service train track. The start of our journey was mostly downhill, and we used the break a bit more than the pedals, only occasionally giving it a little leg power after having to stop at a crossing to check for cars. The view is absolutely indescribable! You follow the mountain line, traveling across the valley from Joseph out to Enterprise, passing farms and plenty of wildlife on the way. And since the return trip is slightly uphill, when they turn you around in Enterprise, the guide starts up a little motor that keep you humming along at about the same pace you had been going before. It does require someone to keep pedaling but it’s still pretty laid back, and a perfect way to get to see more of the region that you would most likely miss if not for taking a break and passing by in a unique way.

When we got back, we took a few minutes to ask around and see if any of the other adventurers in our group had a good restaurant recommendation and the clear winner was The Gold Room. We were really excited to try it, but parked a few blocks away on purpose and spent the rest of the morning shopping until we were ready for lunch. The entire main street is lined with really cool shops. We fell in love with the shirts and hats at Moonlight Graphics. Just like Heather does for our floral shop in Moscow, this place has a local family that designs unique illustrations and prints and embroiders them locally! You might have seen me in the Wallowa Lake hat I picked up there – it’s now one of my favorites.

We also picked up some nick-knacks at assorted other stores, and a magnet to commemorate our trip before stumbling upon The Old Vineyard – you know we both love antique stores and this was definitely one we got lost in for a long while. Heather spotted a unicorn print skirt (that’s a dream find for those not in the know – and not a literal skirt with an image of unicorns, though I’m sure she would love one of those as well). And I came across my new favorite map! It’s three dimensional and has the US with the mountain ranges in topographical relief. I can’t believe how old it is, but the plastic is still perfect, someone must have really been gentle with this thing, and I’m honored to be the next one to take good care of it.

Unable to hold off feasting for a single minute longer, we walked over The Gold Room and ordered one of the best pizzas that we’ve had in years. I was so happy we picked this place after all the recommendations, and was even more elated when I discovered that they had Calabrian chilis in an authentic preparation to put on the pie. The wine was-great, the pizza was perfect, and the outdoor seating was the icing on top. Well, there wasn’t any actual icing – for dessert we went with a chocolate-chip cookie. You know, just to hold us over until we could make it back to the lodge and head over for some ice-cream. Wouldn’t want to pass out from hunger on the way.

As our day was coming to a close, we walked up to the Wallowa Lake Tramway. They have a gondola that takes you up the steepest vertical lift in North America to the top of Mt Howard. Up there at over 8,000 feet you are treated to 360 degree views, a series of hiking trails, and Summit Grill for lunch or dinner. They call this area the Switzerland of America, and having been to both places, I’d skip the flight and pick Wallowa again. We didn’t get the chance to head up top, but decided to put it first on our list for the next trip. (Editor’s Note* Truth is I had anxiety about going up there but Tony was super nice about it. I vowed to face my anxiety and ride up there the next time we went to Wallowa!)

At the base of the gondola, we got ice-cream at the Matterhorn Village. We sat on some benches next to their put-put and looked out at the mountains across the street. True to form, I went cookies and cream and stole a few licks of Heather’s chocolate-peanut butter.

As the night was growing dusk we walked back to the lodge, grabbed a few glasses of wine and played board games by their fire as we had the lobby almost entirely to ourselves. Did you know that Trivial Pursuit has a few cards with wrong answers printed on them?

The next morning we went for a long walk in Wallowa Lake State Park, and then grabbed some lunch at Glacier Ridge Grill just across from the park and our hotel. Another great choice. We both had order envy after hearing the other’s selection, and decided to just split the Tri-Tip sandwich and Fish and Chips. The deer were still there across the road, busy eating, and wondering if Heather was the crazy running baby that is still remembered in their family legends.

They can all expect us back this fall if not sooner. But we might just pick a different route down there!