Monday, November 21, 2011
THE BUSINESS AND FASHION NEWSPAPER OF THE HOME TEXTILES INDUSTRY
Springs Looks to Improvements in 2012 SAO PAULO, BRAZIL — Higher costs, slower sales and unfavorable exchange rates reduced sales and profits for Springs Global during the third quarter, but the company said it expects its performance to improve next year as new programs — including branded introductions in the United States — arrive at retail. “In the U.S. the big push with a great team and great brands will start to generate great results,” president Josue Gomes da Silva said during a quarterly conference call last week to discuss earnings. Particularly in the second half of 2012, the more affordable iterations of Springs’ luxury brand developments such as DVF (from designer Diane Von Furstenberg) and Espacio Sami Hayek should gain traction. In the U.S. operation, “we want to offer more JOSUE GOMES DA innovation, better plans and more creativity,” said SILVA Springs Global da Silva. “And that’s where our investment lies.” The contribution to total sales from the United States and other markets outside Brazil fell to 50.9% of total revenues in the recent third quarter from 53.3% in the year-ago quarter. That’s in line with a goal the company laid out a few years ago to reduce its dependence on the U.S. market. Total net sales for the nine months ended Sept. 30 fell 23.2% to R$1.36 billion, or approximately $769 million US. For the third quarter, total net sales fell 23.2% to R$442.6 million, or about $250 million US. “The biggest impact [on results] by far is the increase of raw material costs,” da Silva said. Springs Global was able to pass along price increases in the Brazilian market fairly quickly, he said. Long-term contracts in the U.S. market made the process move more slowly, he added. SEE SPRINGS PAGE 2
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hometextilestoday.com
| Vol. 32, No. 27 | $8.00
Made in America Staging a Comeback? HTT STAFF REPORT
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es, Virginia, some home textiles are still made in the U.S.A. More often, though, they are assembled in the U.S.A. from constituent parts – fiber fill, pillow shells or towel blanks — that come from elsewhere, often China. While the political debate over restoring jobs to the economy has thrown a spotlight on the state of America’s manufacturing sector — and spawned a Made in America series by ABC World News — most manufacturers still constructing product here don’t anticipate a restoration. A few, however, said the Made in America label is beginning to pique some interest at retail. 1888 Mills does most of its towel production off-shore, but maintains a small manufacturing operation here for short runs of bet-
ter goods and to meet quick-replenishment needs. It also has had several retailers inquire about getting some U.S.-made product to put on their ecommerce sites. “They’re getting requests from their consumers online,” said Lexi Schladenhauffen, vp of marketing and design. 1888 already offers U.S.made towels on Amazon and Costco.com, she said. The company was also called on by “Extreme Makeover: Home Edition” to contribute towels to seven homes in Joplin, Mo., that are being rebuilt after sustaining hurricane damage. And 1888 was included in a dorm room makeover featuring U.S. product for a segment on ABC World News. “In the past, we wished [Made in the USA] was a piece of the decision-making process,” said Schladenhauffen. “Now it seems like some people are looking for it.”
n
made i
.a s . u e th
SEE USA PAGE 7
Cotton Forecast: Partly Sunny
Inside This Issue BY WAYNE MARKS New JCP ceo Promises Transformation ................................... page 2 Milling Around........................................................................... page 4 Feeding Frenzy........................................................................... page 4 Area Rug Industry Dominated by Domestic Manufacturers ..................................................... page 8 Brand Names Core of Differentiation in White Goods ............................................. page 14
N EW YORK — With the harvest season under way in the Northern Hemisphere, estimates suggest a relatively predictable cotton supply, but demand uncertainty remains a risk for buyers in the near term. The market appears to have settled in the $1 per pound range, but the heat that scorched the earth in the southern U.S., most especially in Texas, and more flooding in Pakistan gave rise to concerns of another shortage and ensuing market mayhem. However, the USDA’s recent World Agricultural Supply and Demand Estimate for 2011/2012 world cotton forecasts found higher beginning stocks offset by lower production. USDA expects world consumption and trade to be reduced marginally, with world ending stocks virtually unchanged. SEE COTTON PAGE 6
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11/18/2011 12:16:42 PM
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Home Textiles Today
Retail Briefs Williams-Sonoma Customers Keen on Textiles in Third Quarter
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he textiles category was singled out as among the best performers in all of Williams-Sonoma Inc.’s five nameplates during the third quarter, when the company generated significant gains in overall revenues and comp sales. West Elm, which led the same-store sales growth with a 27% comp sales gain on top of a 25% increase in the year-ago quarter, will be expanding its textiles assortment going forward, according to company president and ceo Laura Alber.
Ross Reports Strong Growth
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oss Stores net earnings climbed 19% to $144.0 million during the third quarter, with earnings per share of $1.26, up from $1.02, a 24% increase. Sales increased 9% to $2.046 billion, with comps rising 5% over the prior year’s quarter. Apparel was cited as a key driver of profitability. The home business was not discussed in detail during the company’s quarterly conference call last week. Ross credited lower in-store inventories, faster turns and lower markdowns for improved profit margins.
Sears 3Q Loss Widens
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ears Holdings reported its third consecutive quarterly loss for the year as both margins and samestore sales fell. Net loss for the quarter ended Oct. 29 was $421 million, or $3.95 per share, compared to a net loss in the year-ago quarter of $218 million, or $1.98 per share. Consolidated revenues fell 1.0% to $9.6 billion. Overall comp slipped 0.8%, the result of operating fewer Sears and Kmart stores than a year ago, the company stated. Sears Canada experienced a 7.8% decline in samestore sales. Comps declined 0.9% at Kmart and 0.7% at Sears U.S.
Stein Mart Posts a Loss for 3Q
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ccupied with clearing inventories to keep them aligned with sales, Stein Mart recorded a net loss for the third quarter as sales and comps slumped. Net loss for the quarter, ended Oct. 29, was $1.8 million or 4 cents per share, compared to net income of $4.3 million or 10 cents per share in the year-ago quarter. Comparable store sales decreased 2.9% in the period, and sales dipped 3.5% to $258.5 million. The 262-unit off-pricer said August sales were hobbled by a shift in the advertising media mix for the largest promotional event of the month and impact of Hurricane Irene.
Bon-Ton Hits Some Bumps in 3Q
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oming off a third quarter with declines in sales and comps, The Bon-Ton Stores is planning more aggressive promotional events to drive traffic and transactions during the holiday season. Net loss was $22.0 million, or $1.21 per diluted share, versus a net loss of $6.3 million, or 63 cents per share, for the third quarter of fiscal 2010. Sales fell 6.3% to $656.1 million, and comps
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November 21, 2011
News
> hometextilestoday.com
New JCP ceo Promises Transformation PLANO, TEXAS — Former Apple Store chief Ron Johnson, who officially became ceo of JCPenney at the beginning of the month, is injecting some of his former employer’s DNA into the department store company — literally. During his first quarterly analyst call at JCP last week, Johnson announced the hiring of two new senior executives, both former Apple colleagues. Daniel Walker joined Penney on Nov. 16 as chief talent officer, overseeing all human relations and reporting directly to Johnson. He held the same position at Apple from 2000 to 2004. He also held top HR positions
at Gap Inc., General Mills and Lazarus Department Stores. Johnson also announced Michael Kramer will become JCP’s new chief operating officer effective Dec. 5. Kramer is currently ceo of apparel supplier Kellwood Co. and was cfo for Apple’s retail operation from 2000 to 2005, where he reported directly to Johnson. Between those two spots, he was exec vp and cfo at Abercrombie & Fitch. Last week, Johnson said he is undertaking a strategic review of products, pricing and promotional strategy. Although he officially took up his new position Nov. 1, he has spent the past
four months travelling to visit stores and suppliers, he said. Johnson will outline the company’s new strategy Jan. 25 during an analyst meeting in New York. This morning, he spoke repeatedly of “winning” and making Penney “America’s favorite store.” He repeated a message he said he has delivered to JCP employees: “I am not here to improve; I am here to transform.” Discussing a broad direction for the retailer, he uttered a phrase familiar to everyone who has ever seen an Apple advertisement. JCP, he said, will “think different.” HTT
2012 Icon Honors Goes For More ‘Wow’ cleaner, with a program that is dynamic and relevant to this ATLANTA — The Icon Honors industry. And have fun, too.” AmericasMart created the Icon are about to become … well, Honors in 2009, in partnership even more iconic. The 2012 Icon Honors, set with the Gift and Home Trade for next July in Atlanta, and rec- Association. Sandow Media, parognizing innovation and accom- ent company to Home Textiles Today, joined as a co-sponplishment in the gift sor for the 2011 event, and home induswhich was held this past try, promises to be July and attended by over an even more “trans900 people during the formative” event, summer Atlanta Market. according to AmeriThe 2012 Icon HoncasMart Atlanta presors will be held on July ident Jeff Portman, JEFF PORTMAN 14 in Atlanta who announced iniAmericasMart Specifics on the event tial details recently. are still forthcoming, but “We want to create one big change involves an iconic Americantype moment that celebrates the simplification and timing of our roots and also celebrates the the entry process. Nominations future of where we are going. will be accepted starting this I’m really excited about how month, four months earlier than we’re going to transform this the past, and all submissions will event, making it crisper and be handled online rather than BY WARREN SHOULBERG
Springs Looks Ahead SPRINGS FROM PAGE 1
“We think there’s a stabilizing effect now,” da Silva added. “If that’s the case, we expect sales to increase again.” The company also believes the valuation of the Real against the dollar has reached a plateau. Fashion bedding sales fell
17.3% in the quarter to R$179.1 mi l l i o n . D e s p i t e a 1 7 . 4 % increase in prices prompted by higher costs, sales volume in tons declined 29.5%. Bath towel sales slumped 34.1% to R$73.9 million. In this segment, price rose 16.4%, but sales volume in tons tumbled 43.4%. By comparison, the sales decline in the utility bedding segment was modest. Utility
through a printed form, at www. americasmarticonhonors.com. This will allow for earlier judging and provide time for video crews to put together visual presentations on the winners. Portman said the use of videos will be a key component of next year’s event. “I want to create a true theatrical performance set-up.” Portman also said efforts will be made to encourage attendance among more retailers and smaller companies. “We want everyone in the industry to come and talk about it. “Icon has been a very transformative moment in the gift and home industry. And if we don’t do that, we haven’t accomplished our job. “We’re going to raise the bar next year so that the one word people say when they walk into the Icon Honors will be ‘wow’.” HTT
bedding sales dropped 11.1% to R$58.3 million. Average price in this category actually decreased 2.9%. Sales volume in tons fell further — down 8.4%. Springs Global also derives sales from intermediate products such as greige as well as its retail operations in Brazil, which by the end of the year will number 210 units — some owned, some franchised. HTT
11/18/2011 11:41:16 AM
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Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
> hometextilestoday.com
OPINIONTodaY Milling Around
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OMETIMES IN THE SW EEP OF EV ENTS it’s difficult to remember exactly when things hit an inflection point. That is not the case for me. I joined HTT in the spring of 2000, when the industry titans were still large, American mills. Within a single year, several of them were in bankruptcy. By 2005, most of them were gone. Frankly, I am surprised not by how much production has disappeared from the United States but that any remains. It’s heartening to see manufacturers find niches that can be addressed more profitably here than offshore. It’s nice to hear consumers are pressing retailers here and there — mostly onEDITOR-IN-CHIEF line, it seems — to put up some U.S.-made product. I don’t know a single manufacturing exec who didn’t lament off-shoring. Many of these mills were named after the towns in which they were founded (or vice versa). Most of them had a strong sense of pride in employing generations of families. Because of that, some held on longer than it was fiscally prudent to do so. The “Made in the USA” conundrum presents us with the doubleedged sword that has characterized so much of the off-shoring phenomenon. On the one hand, it absolutely decimated an industry that once employed hundreds of thousands. (The National Textile Organization’s roster of company-by-company plant closings and layoffs by manufacturers of fabrics, apparel and home textiles from the 1990s through the aught years is more depressing than words can convey.) On the other hand, as we are often reminded, it made better merchandise more affordable to many more consumers. I think of a story that ran in the New York Times several years ago when Etch-a-Sketch closed its last plant in the U.S. At peak production in the 1960s, the pad retailed for about $11, according to the story. Moving production off-shore brought the retail down to something like $7. Not that big a change, you’d think, but the story pointed out that $11 in 1968 was closer to $35 in contemporary terms — and who on earth would pay $35 for an Etch-a-Sketch today? All in all, the industry has rolled with the punches — and heaven knows, the blows have come fast and hard. In that sense, it’s great to see how smart and responsive and resilient the industry turned out to be. HTT
Jennifer Marks
Feeding Frenzy
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H A NKSGI V ING USED TO BE all about the turkey. Now it’s all about the sitting ducks. All the recent excitations about Black Friday promotions and stores opening early and crazy deals and general retail mayhem are calling attention to the fact that it’s getting to be the most absurd time of the year again. And from all indicait’s going to be parWarren tions, ticularly absurd this holiShoulberg day selling season. PUBLISHER/ Retailers are tripping EDITORIAL DIRECTOR over themselves to see who can be the first one on the block to open their doors and let in the invading consumer hordes. That old 4 a.m. opening has become so 2010, and the new norm is midnight. Some retailers are starting the night before … or even the day before. Rumor has it that at least one retailer is working on a time machine that will take shoppers back in time so they can start buying their doorbusters last year and get an even earlier start. We’ve heard that other stores are offering life-size coupons that can actually be worn, negating the need for customers to even bother getting dressed to do their shopping. It’s going to be that kind of a holiday season. You can’t blame the retailers. Business remains tough, though when you look at monthly retail sales they are not nearly as bad as other parts of the overall economy. One could even make the argument that stores are holding up better than most other segments of American business. Certainly, they are nowhere near as bad as housing or other industries. And you can’t blame the consumers. They
are just trying to stretch their dollars as far as they humanely — or inhumanely, in some cases — can go. They have been conditioned like Pavlov’s shoppers to respond to all of this promotional noise and you can actually see them start to salivate and twitch when you show them giant sale signs. Who cares if you already have four Blu-Ray DVD players if the devices are only $49.99 to the first 100 people through the door? So, these Black Friday doorbusters actually do work … at least in the short term. How many sales are made that day that would have been made eventually over the next 30 days — and perhaps at better margins — is anyone’s guess. So too is any hard information – at least any hard information that anyone wants to share – on whether that shopper sticks around to buy more higher-margin goods once they’ve stocked up on the cheap stuff. But creating an image that you’ve got the best deals in town — it’s the single best vehicle there is for any retailer all year long. There’s no disputing that. But ultimately — and not before too long — Black Friday is destined to become an anachronism, relegated to the retailing junk pile. Eventually shoppers will find another way to get these great bargains without all of the drama of midnight sales, cold waits on long lines and hand-to-hand combat on limited inventory goods and traditional retailers will indeed be sitting ducks. It’s happening already. It’s called the Internet. Eventually we’ll look back on Black Friday as yet another cute, antiquated experience as shoppers increasingly buy online for these kinds of purchases. So enjoy the feeding frenzy while it’s still here. Pretty soon it’s going to be just another Thanksgiving leftover. HTT
www.hollander.com
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11/18/2011 12:34:17 PM
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Home Textiles Today
News
November 21, 2011
> hometextilestoday.com
Cotton Forecast: Partly Sunny
World Cotton Balance Sheet (MILLIONS OF 480 LB BALES)
COTTON FROM PAGE 1 2007/08 Beginning Stocks 62.4 Production 119.7 Supply 182.2 Consumption 123.6 Ending Stocks 60.9 Stocks/Use Ratio 49.3%
2008/09 60.9 107.3 168.2 110.3 60.8 55.1%
2009/10 60.8 101.6 162.4 119.1 44.2 37.1%
2010/11 2011/12 (OCT.) 2011/12 (NOV.) 44.2 44.9 45.2 115.3 124.2 123.9 159.5 169.1 169.1 114.3 114.4 114.3 45.2 54.8 55.0 39.5% 47.9% 48.1%
The question for global markets is where will the kind of demand emerge that puts the 2008 recession safely in the rearview mirror.
gave producers and merchants little incentive to consider lower prices at the moment, he added. John Robinson, professor and extension economist-cot-
Source: USDA
World Cotton Production
“Prices for Supima have remained at the current range for some time now, even though demand has been slow in recent months. This is because there was so much demand at the beginning of 2011.”
(MILLIONS OF 480 LB BALES) China India United States Pakistan Brazil Australia Uzbekistan Turkey African Franc Zone EU-27 Turkmenistan Greece Argentina Mexico Burkina Rest of World World Total
2007/08 37.0 24.0 19.2 8.6 7.4 0.6 5.4 3.1 2.3 1.7 1.4 1.6 0.7 0.6 0.7 7.8
2008/09 36.7 22.6 12.8 8.7 5.5 1.5 4.6 1.9 2.2 1.2 1.6 1.2 0.6 0.6 0.9 6.8
2009/10 32.0 23.0 12.2 9.6 5.5 1.8 3.9 1.8 2.1 1.1 1.5 0.9 1.0 0.4 0.7 5.9
119.7
107.3
101.6
2010/11 2011/12 (OCT.) 30.5 33.5 25.4 27.5 18.1 16.6 8.8 10.0 9.0 9.0 4.2 5.0 4.1 4.2 2.1 2.9 2.1 1.5 1.1 1.7 1.8 1.4 0.9 1.4 1.3 1.4 0.7 1.2 0.7 0.7 6.1 7.7 115.3
124.2
2011/12 (NOV.) 33.5 27.5 16.3 10.0 9.0 5.0 4.2 3.1 1.5 1.6 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.2 0.7 7.8 123.9 Source: USDA
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— JESSE CURLEE, Supima
Cotton Inc. earlier this month pointed to key factors indicating lower prices, including the possibility of another Euro Zone recession, sluggish U.S. growth, and slowing Chinese economic activity. The possibility of global demand weakness, this crop year’s 9.6 million bale production surplus, seasonal harvest influences and the introduction of fresh supplies should keep downward pressure on prices for the near term. However, the Chinese reserve program is helping to keep a floor on prices. The possibility of lower cotton acreage as a result of competing crops — such as corn and soybeans — may counteract the downward pressure going forward, Cotton Inc.’s Nov. 10 report concluded. Prices for Extra Long Staple cottons such as Supima, Egyptian, et al, remain high relative to historical averages. “Supima prices have been strong since the fall of 2010 … Egyptian cotton prices are probably a little lower,” said Jesse Curlee, president of Supima. “Prices for Supima have remained at the current range for some time now, even though demand has been slow in recent months. This is because there was so much demand at the beginning of 2011.” This overhang of demand
ton marketing at Texas A&M’s Department of Agricultural Economics doesn’t see a repeat of the 2010/2011 spike. “What you had last year was a perfect storm of events, with the main driver being that around October 2010, people began to realize that the Chinese did not have the stocks people thought they had,” Robinson said. “the Pakistani floods, the Indian export ban, and uncertainty in the U.S. about how the Fed’s quantitative easing program would affect the U.S. dollar and the ingredients were there for the unprecedented price increase,” he said. Robinson, who also publishes the weekly Cotton Marketing Planner online, points out that no such perfect storm appears on the horizon going forward. “We have the likelihood of increased supply and iffy demand, so barring any major surprises, we should see prices range-bound around $1 and possibly lower,” he said. A trend report from China’s Sub-Council of Textiles Industry helps support this view. The report forecasts lower Chinese cotton consumption and a moderate expansion of planting areas. Cotton imports are expected to stabilize or reduce, leading to lower prices. Stay tuned. HTT
11/17/2011 2:48:39 PM
> hometextilestoday.com
November 21, 2011
made in .a the u.s
Home Textiles Today
7
Taking Stock of Domestic Domestics
USA FROM PAGE 1
To what extent consumers are clamoring for U.S.-manufactured goods remains unclear. Certainly the national news outlets are interested. Faribault Woolen Mill in Faribault, Minn., reopened earlier this year under new ownership. Its 14 looms are operating at about 60% capacity, primarily pumping out wool blankets, according to Chuck Mooty, president and ceo. So far, the manufacturing relaunch has resulted in coverage by USA Today, CBS National News and CNBC. “We’ve gotten some nice media attention,” said Mooty. The mill this month will open a store in The Mall of America in Minneapolis. Mooty hopes to receive first-hand feedback from consumers on products through the store. As to whether the Made in the U.S.A. factor helps Faribault sell product from its website, Mooty said: “I don’t think there’s any doubt.” Rival Pendleton Woolen Mills is seeing an explosion in business and has brought some wool production for its apparel back to the U.S. plant. The home end of Pendleton has also expanded, with a new major hospitality account as well as exclusive co-branded blanket products for Eddie Bauer, Urban Outfitters and Dwell Studio. “It’s rocking and rolling. The retro American look is very hot right now,” said Bob Christnaught, head of Pendleton Home. Boutique and bridge stores are adding Pendleton blankets for the first time, he said. The mill is now running three shifts a day for five days a week and investing in additional high speed dobby looms for blankets, he said. “Blankets used to be a five- to six-week season. The season has gotten longer,” he added. “A lot of that, I think, is the fall off in the heavier top-of-bed looks.” Aside from rug manufacturing (see page 8), much of the home textiles production in the United States consists of blowing fill into pillow and comforter shells produced off-shore. Louisville Bedding operates
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four such plants in the United States and one in Montreal. Interest in Made in the U.S.A. product really varies by customer, according to Eric Besner, vp of sales and marketing for the United States and Canada. “Certain retailers say they’re answering the feedback they’re getting from customers. But to be honest, I can talk to other retailers and it’s not even on the radar.” What is growing in some quarters, Besner said, is the idea of featuring the domestic angle in marketing, especially packaging. “Being able to say: ‘These products create 750 jobs.’ This is where a lot of the softness and the heart come into play. People are concerned about jobs in America,” said Besner. Hollander Home Fashions, which also operates several filling plans in the United States and one in Toronto, would like to see more production here, but the numbers don’t add up, according to ceo Chris Baker. “The cost to fill product is very small relative to the selling price,” he said. But that also gives U.S. suppliers some advantages. “We can turn orders around very quickly — instead of weeks, if not months in the pipeline.” Allied Home’s ceo and chief product officer Andy Schantz agrees. “If we didn’t have to ship it over the water it would probably be done in China,” he said. However, Allied is planning to do fuller production in the United States on some better down pillows and comforters. “Notice I said ‘better’ — not opening price point,” he added. Soft-Tex, which recently expanded its U.S. production from 80,000 square feet to 120,000 square feet doesn’t emphasize the U.S. assembly of the product “because the product isn’t 100% made here,” said president Arthur Perry. He said most of the component development also takes place outside the United States. “The fiber tech is mostly offshore. There’s some pretty good technology coming out of Germany, and that tech is taken to
Wool blankets from Faribault Woolen Mill Company.
China for manufacturing,” he said. Foam manufacturer Sinomax currently does all its production in China but is looking to add U.S. production for some items where a reduction in shipping costs could offset the domestic production cost. “This has been met with warm reception by most of our customers who do tend to favor Made in the U.S.A as a feelgood, but are still primarily price conscious,” said Steven Romero, vp of marketing. Jonathan Alkin, president of iJon, has found a way to reopen his cut and sew operation in California by offering fast turnaround on market sampling and preproduction as well as full production for better goods that don’t meet the volume minimum for off-shore manufacturing. “We’re gong to warehouse a certain variety of different thread counts, sateen, and percales of quality goods in white and ivory. We’ve also got some ready, instock It alian wide-width in white and ivory at 600-count,” he said. The company also offers warehousing and drop shipping. “We have so many people we can draw off [for production],” he added. “Every time we need to produce more than we did the week before, we need more
people.” Fashion home textiles company Veratex is also seeing growth for its cut-and-sew business. “Most of it because of minimums,” said ceo Avi Cohen. However, many online operations like to show U.S.-produced product, he said. “We get letters from the customers saying: ‘Thank you for making this in the U.S.’ It’s nice,” he said. For CDS Ensembles — which over the course of many years has provided cut and sew as well as filling and quilting for suppliers — business has been growing because the economy has forced players in every part
of the supply chain to rethink their model. “There seems to be a willingness of people to try new things and share the supply chain,” said David Krieger, ceo. In one upcoming project, an equipment manufacturer is going to locate some hardware on CDS’s floor; CDS will produce product using the equipment on behalf of a supplier who has contracted with a retail account for the program. “It’s so different than it was just two year ago,” said Krieger. “People are starting to take some shared responsibility for one another’s success. It may sound ‘woo-woo,’ but it’s good business.” HTT
11/17/2011 6:31:11 PM
8
Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
rugs: n i made s.a . the u
> hometextilestoday.com
Area Rug Industry Dominated by Domestic Manufacturers N EW YORK — It’s become very difficult to find any products that are still manufactured from start to finish in the United States, particularly in the home textiles sector. But area rugs still have some foothold here. The number of domestic manufacturers producing rugs isn’t too impressive. Only four are totally vertical U.S. operations. Another handful manufactures a portion of their assortment here, supplemented by imports. But still, among the home textiles industry’s top five rug manufacturers, Maples, Mohawk, Oriental Weavers/Sphinx, and Shaw still produce domestically — and their “Made in the USA” offerings continue to have clout in the business. So how do they — and their smaller counterparts — do it? The key ingredient for many domestic rug manufacturers is family. “Because we’re a family-owned business and we’re the type of the company that pays a lot of attention to detail, we have always been able to thrive on being efficient, innovative and timely and catering to the direct needs of our [retail] customers,” said Arnie Stevens, vp, Maples Rugs. The company opened its Shaw Living
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doors in 1966 and is today run by second-generation co-owner Wade Maples, his wife, Pat, and their son, John. A manufacturer of area and accent rug as well as bath rugs — all made in Alabama— the company has long occupied top billing on HTT’s Top 5 list of category players, last year reporting $130 million combined in area rug and bath rug sales in 2010. Capel Rugs and Brumlow Mills are two other key category manufacturers with family roots in the business that help them maintain domestic operations. “We’ve carried the banner for ‘Made in the U.S.A.’ for a long time,” said Allen Robertson, vp of sales for the 94-year-old, family-owned-and-operated Capel. Originally founded as a domestic manufacturer of braided rugs, Capel Rugs has over the years expanded its assortments to include a broad array of imported varieties — a tactic the company was almost forced to adopt to remain competitive in certain category segments. But Robertson said Capel’s U.S.-made lines still make up about half of total sales. Driving its domestic business are two rug collections —
braids and indoor/outdoor border rugs, made at headquarters and the company’s Dalton, Ga. plant, respectively. While the braids remain a core signature offering from Capel, its newer fabric border rugs are rapidly growing and are expected to double in sales by yearend over 2010. “We have a big facility in Dalton to allow us the capacity for the sales growth, Robertson said. Third-generation home textiles manufacturer Mitchell Brumlow cited two reasons his family-run business, Calhoun, G a - b a s e d B r u m l ow M i l l s , claims “a competitive edge” in an import-laden industry. “We are a low-cost producer, and we have a fast turn-around to market,” he said. Brumlow Mills’ assortment includes polypropylene, printed and solid-colored rug styles. To support recent growth, the company last year installed a new 16color Chromajet dye-injection printer into its facilities. The move represented a milestone for the company, Brumlow noted. “We’ve been printing for years. In fact, we were the first to do printed accent rugs,”
Brumlow claimed. “But we just became fully vertical with the addition of this machine.” “Soup to nuts” is what is served at Orian Rugs, which since its founding 1979 has made all of its rug programs at its Anderson, S.C., headquarters. “Our company works on lean manufacturing and vertical integration,” explained Mikala Moller, director of marketing and merchandising. “We offer everything in-house — from yarn manufacturing to product manufacturing, design, marketing, customer service, inventory management, basically soup to nuts.” She added that Orian is a “solution-oriented, full service manufacturing operation, which really differentiates us from the importers because we can provide the best cost and service to our customers.” Orian is now gearing up to move into a 6,000-square-foot showroom at AmericasMart in Atlanta – triple the size of its former space. “This new showroom goes along with the expansion of our business — we need it to meet with the growing demand,” Moller explained. Demand is also coming in the form of marketing. The
recession has bred resurgence in American-made pride, and some rug manufacturers said retailers are asking them to bank on this sentiment with a stronger message in the form of new labeling and advertising. “Retailers, manufacturers and consumers alike understand the importance of domestically-made goods as an essential part of our economic growth on a local, regional and national level, and the ‘Made in the USA’ logo/icon is a great reminder for many,” said Jeffrey Seagle, Mohawk’s director of marketing and product merchandising. Mohawk, which has been creating home textiles in Georgia for its 120-year existence, sees “Made in the USA” resonating with the American consumer “more than ever,” Seagle continued. “We believe, to a certain extent, it always mattered to the customer as a matter of pride and badge of quality. Now it seems it is really beginning to matter to our retail partners. As the economy continues to struggle, consumers still seek a great value, however they are also very mindful how American made products contribute to future growth of our economy.” cmi, which has been pro-
Brumlow Mills
11/17/2011 6:37:06 PM
> hometextilestoday.com
ducing all of its rugs and more recently soft accessories at its Pawtucket, R.I., headquarters since 1979, is “definitely marketing our ‘Made in the USA’ more because it has become much more important to our customers,” said Lynn Minchello, marketing manager and daughter of company founder, owner and president, Don Scarlata. Added Roy Evans, vp of sales and marketing: “Overall, being Made in the USA is an additional positive feature about a rug, but not the primary reason a customer buys our rugs. The color, style, price and availabil-
November 21, 2011
ity must fit the customer needs first. Then, to find out it’s made in the USA is an ‘Oh, that’s nice’ feeling. If there’s a toss-up between two rugs, it usually tips the balance in our favor.” Recently, “more and more retailers are asking about it so we’re focusing on that through our presentations, labels and factory information on our website and in person. It’s another selling angle to take when price is a concern,” he said. Not far away, in West Warwick, R.I., multi-category suppliers Natco Home/Central Oriental manufactures 80% of its area
rugs here. Jim Thompson, vp of sales and marketing, agreed that, “ultimately, it comes down to color and design,” for a shopper when selecting a rug to buy. But because the company’s designers and colorists “are based here, and are shopping the U.S. market, they understand American color and design. They understand the trends and we are able to adapt to them quickly. This is a fashion business, and as manufacturers, we allow retailers to change out assortment faster thanks to our quick turnaround and short lead times. They can
Orian
even order less quantity more often, and update their assortments more often.” Natco Home/Central Oriental bought its polypropylene rug manufacturing plant five years ago in Sanford, Maine, and has been progressively expanding and updating it since then, most recently having installed its eighth loom about one month ago. “We went from being primarily an importer of Belgian and Turkish machine-made rugs to now manufacturing 80% of our line — and growing,” Thompson said. Natco Home/Central Oriental also owns and operates a con-
Home Textiles Today
9
version facility in Dalton, Ga., where it makes basic solid-colored utility-type area rugs out of carpet remnants. Shaw Living, a division of Berkshire Hathaway-owned Shaw Industries, produces 99% of its rugs domestically at its plant in Ringgold, Ga., according to Kim Barta, brand manager. “Made in USA is something Shaw has been talking about for many years,” Barta said. “When people started importing, we stayed here. And now, it’s at the forefront on what consumers want. They want to support American businesses.” HTT
Mohawk Home
Central Oriental
rugs: n i made s.a . the u Capel
htt111102_006_009.indd 9
11/17/2011 6:38:11 PM
Company: Louisville Bedding Headquarters: Louisville, KY Mandy Talbert Director of Marketing
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11/17/2011 11:07:03 AM
Company: Avanti Linens Headquarters: Moonachie, NJ Arthur Tauber, Chairman Jeff Kaufman, President
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11/17/2011 11:11:26 AM
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Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
News
> hometextilestoday.com
Brand Names Core of Differentiation in White Goods BY JILL ROWEN
A
look at the white goods department at six major retailers showed clearly that brands were at the core of the assortments. Whether private label, or store exclusives with a dash of national brands thrown in, top retailers seem to be banking on customers recognizing and trusting the brand names on the shelves. The products themselves — pillows, mattress pads and toppers, and white goods comforters — were very similar across the board, so price and name were being touted as differentiating factors. HTT visited white goods departments at six of the top retailers in the category, shopping stores in the Long Island communities of Massapequa, West Babylon and Bayshore, N.Y. What follows is a snapshot of what consumers are seeing when they walk in the stores of Bed, Bath & Beyond, Kmart, Kohl’s, Macy’s, Target and Walmart.
Customer Service, Anyone? HTT wanted to focus on assortment and product, but it was obvious from report results that it had to be about customer service, too. Every store had empty shelves in the department. Save for BB&B and Kmart, every store had missing or mismatched shelf-pricing. Three products at Target required a price check; four products required one at Wal-Mart. At Kohl’s, any shelf price tags were replaced with a sign noting that all pillows and pads were buy one get one. Though most of Kohl’s items had prices on the products themselves, it was unwieldy looking for a price on the bottom of a box containing a king size memory foam mattress topper. The bright spots: At Macy’s two different clerks asked if we needed help; and one did so at BB&B. In fact, during HTT’s visit to BB&B, a manager training a new employee was overheard saying, “Ask them how they typically sleep; show them how this bounces back.” Granted, that kind of attention is more easily found in a specialty store, but more of that spirit needs to trickle down to
htt111102_014_015 14
the masses. Then there was the issue of samples. Wal-Mart had none. Target’s samples were dirty and not labeled. Macy’s had good, clearly marked samples, but product was not always easily found nearby. Kohl’s and Macy’s were the only stores with full bed samples. Again, as a specialty store, BB&B was the most consistent in providing samples in the right locations. Consumers have to wade through that kind of visual chaos to even begin to decide what they want to buy.
Polyester Fill Dominates in Pillows* 22%
19%
Memory foam
Down/Feather
59% Polyester
Store Strategy on Display The white goods departments are a microcosm of each retailer’s overall strategy, both in assortments and pricing. Wal-Mart had the lowest prices and the smallest selection — right in line with its lean and mean strategy. It focused on its Mainstays and Canopy lines supplemented by some Beautyrest brand items. BB&B stayed true to its specialty positioning with the largest assortment and more clearly defined features for its products through shelf cards and samples. Kmart relied heavily on the Cannon brand across the categories, with mostly a good/better assortment as far as prices went. Target was more targeted and showcased its products through its tier of store brands, mostly RE and @Home. Kmart and Target had matching opening price points, no doubt watching each other’s every move. Kohl’s used its Simply Vera Wang as its top end designer name, usually the highest price point option. Finally, Macy’s “designer” strategy was clearly evident with its cache of stars each offering a program, including Martha Stewart, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren. The problem for consumers may be that it’s not so obvious what sets the Tommy Hilfiger pillow apart from the Calvin Klein pillow.
The Tiers Have It The retail tier in which stores operate in plays a significant part in the product assortment for this category. The discounters stuck to the basics while midtier players and specialty retailer
* As seen at Bed Bath & Beyond, Kmart, Kohl’s, Macy’s, Target and Walmart Source: HTT Research
BB&B offered broader selections. In pillows, each sold single items. Macy’s and Kohl’s showcased one multi-pack pillow set each. Kohl’s was featuring a buyone-get-one offer on pillows and mattress pads on the week HTT visited. Across the board, retailers showcased the largest selection of pillows, followed by mattress pads and toppers, with comforters last. In fact, no white goods comforters were found at Wal-Mart, only one at Target and two at Kmart. But both department stores and BB&B featured multiple comforter options. Likewise, more solutionbased features and products in the pillow and pad area (like memory foam and specific allergy-relief constructions) were found at the department and special stores, with the mass merchants carrying only one or two options. Size also mattered when it came to tiers. King size pillow options were more evident in the department and specialty stores. Likewise, while most of the stores featured twin/queen/ king size mattress pads; more toppers and comforters in king sizes were available at the department stores. The majority of pillows and pads were poly-filled with cotton covers, although opening price points included cotton/ poly blend covers or all poly products. Here, too, more pricey constructions — memory foam and white down — were more
Sleep Pillow Pricing from OPP to Top Price* $140.00
$150
$129.99
$129.99
120
90
60
30
0
$40.49
$37.39
$2.50
$4.04
$4.04
$8.00
$9.99
$11.49
Walmart
Kmart
Target
Macy's
BB&B
Kohl's
$15.00
* As seen at Bed Bath & Beyond, Kmart, Kohl’s, Macy’s, Target and Walmart Source: HTT Research
Mattress Pad/Topper Pricing from OPP to Top Price* $499.99 $500
400
300
$249.99
200
$124.99
$169.99
$152.99
$99.99
100
0
$11.49
$16.99
$19.99
$27.99
$29.99
Walmart
Kmart
BB&B
Target
Macy's
$49.99 Kohl's
* As seen at Bed Bath & Beyond, Kmart, Kohl’s, Macy’s, Target and Walmart Source: HTT Research
Comforter Pricing from OPP to Top Price* $400
$399.00
$400.00
$349.99
320 240 160 80 0
$69.99 $39.99 Macy's
$74.99
$79.99
Kohl's
BB&B
$53.99 Kmart
* As seen at Bed Bath & Beyond, Kmart, Kohl’s, Macy’s, Target and Walmart Note: Walmart had only fashion comforters available. Target offered only one utility bedding comforter, priced at $119.99. Source: HTT Research
11/16/2011 12:04:06 PM
News
> hometextilestoday.com
evident at the higher tiers, with fewer available products at the mass level. China was the sourcing location across all the categories and tiers. Though most pillows featured covers made in China, a large portion of those pillows were filled and finished in the United States.
Marketing and Packaging It can be confusing for consumers to sift through packaging claims in utility bedding. Most pillow manufacturers have a clearly marked side sleeper or back sleeper pillow option (apologies to the side sleepers: your pillow is overfilled and therefore consistently costs more). But HTT saw many opening price point pillows claiming “good for any sleep position.” A sampling of allergy-relief constructions was featured in each at all of the retailers and marked as such. A few featured an Asthma & Allergy Foundation seal or certificate. On the other hand, virtually every pillow and pad package featured the claim “hypo-allergenic” with few details to back it up. As the entire category has become more technology and solution based, there has been much emphasis on trademarks and affiliations with varying associations, but one can wonder how much impact is made
on the average consumer. Do they understand what R-Tech is? Some of the trademarks HTT saw featured on packaging (and the supplier) include: Microsafe Antimicrobial Treatment (Sleep Studio); R-tech Stain Resistant (Hollander); Lux Loft (Hollander); Dreamloft (Louisville); Expand-A-Grip (Louisville); and Always Fresh (Perfect Fit). Most occurring affiliations were: Asthma & Allergy Foundation (Hollander); Good Housekeeping Seal (Louisville); Sleepbetter.org (Carpenter); and Certified American Feather & Down Council (Blue Ridge Home). On Kmart’s Cannon brand, the packaging itself is a marketing reminder and asks consumers to not forget a pillow or pad protector. The body pillow trend also continues, with each retailer offering at least one option in that size. Kmart and Target both cross-promoted their body pillow with colorful fashion covers: Target on an end cap and Kmart within the department. While retailers and suppliers are doing many things right, there is room for improvement. A better tended department, less confusing features/benefits on the packaging and better differentiation all around may give consumers a better reason to shop a store or brand. HTT
Pillow Talk STORE
KING
BODY PILLOW
15
Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
How They Stack Up Comparisons of Opening and Top Prices by Product Category STORE
BRAND
PRICE
SUPPLIER
OPENING PRICE POINTS PILLOWS BB&B
Sleep Basics
9.99
Springs Global
Kmart
Joe Boxer
4.04
Louisville Bedding
Kohl’s
Big One
11.99*
American Textile Co.
Macy’s
This Year
8.00
Hollander Home
Target
RE Room Essentials
4.04
Springs Global
Walmart
Mainstays
2.50
Springs Global
*Promoted as Buy One Get One Free; All standard size
OPENING PRICE POINTS MATTRESS PADS/TOPPERS BB&B
Sleep Better
19.99
Springs Global
Kmart
Essential Home
16.99
Perfect Fit
Kohl’s
Big One
49.99
Louisville
Macy’s
Home Design
29.99
E & E Co.
Target
RE Room Essentials
27.99
Target
Walmart
Mainstays
11.94
Wal-Mart
All queen sizes
OPENING PRICE POINTS COMFORTERS BB&B
Royal Velvet
79.99
n/a
Kmart
Cannon
53.99
Kmart
Kohl’s
Home Classics
74.99
Hollander
Macy’s
Home Design
39.99
Downlite
Target**
Fieldcrest
Walmart*
n/a
$119.99
Target
All Queen Sizes; * Only fashion comforters; **only one available
TOP PRICE POINTS PILLOWS BB&B
Temperpedic*
129.99
Temperpedic
Kmart
Cannon*
40.49
Future Foam
Kohl’s
Simply Vera Wang**
139.99
Hollander
Macy’s
Hotel Collection**
140.00
Macy’s
Target
Fieldcrest**
37.39
Target
Walmart
Beautyrest**
15.00
Louisville
*Memory Foam; ** Down EURO SQUARE
TOP PRICE POINTS MATTRESS PADS/TOPPERS
EXTENDED SIZE PILLOW OFFERINGS
BB&B
Therapedic
BB&B
1
Kmart
Cannon
152.99
Future Foam
Home Classics
499.99
Sleep Innovations
99.99
6
2
249.99
Carpenter
Kmart
2
1
1
Kohl’s
Kohl’s
2
1
1
Macy’s
Charter Club
Macy’s
7
0
1
Target
1
1
1
Target
Fieldcrest
169.99
Target
Walmart
2
1
0
Walmart
Canopy
124.99
Wal-Mart
POLYESTER
MEMORY FOAM
DOWN
349.99
BB&B
National Sleep Products
TOP PRICE POINTS COMFORTERS STORE
PILLOW OFFERINGS BY FILL
BB&B
Palais Royale
Kmart
Cannon
BB&B
10
5
4
Kohl’s
Home Classics
399.00
Hollander
Kmart
9
2
3
Macy’s
Charter Club***
400.00
Downlite
Kohl’s
6
4
2
Target **
Fieldcrest
119.99
n/a
Macy’s
13
4
4
Walmart*
n/a
Target
6
3
3
*Only fashion comforters; **only one available
10
2
2
Walmart
htt111102_014_015 15
69.99
Kmart
11/16/2011 12:04:50 PM
16
Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
> hometextilestoday.com
PEOPLETodaY Sascha Bopp to Succeed Turf as Crate and Barrel ceo BY GARY EVANS N ORTHBROOK , I LL . — President and ceo Barbara Turf plans to retire after 40 years with home furnishings retailer Crate and Barrel. She will be succeeded by company executives Sascha Bopp as ceo and Marta Calle as president, the retailer announced. Turf’s departure is planned for early spring. Calle, who will be in charge of merchandising and marketing, will report to Bopp when they assume the new positions in April. Bopp is currently chief operating officer and Calle is director of CB2, a Crate and Barrel retail concept. In its announcement, the
company said Turf has played Calle joined Crate and Barrel an integral role in the growth in 2000 as a product developand success of Crate and Bar- ment consultant. She took on rel. She was named president the leadership of CB2 in 2004 in 1996 and ceo in 2008. Dur- and was named director in 2008. ing her tenure, she spearheaded The company said Calle has the launch of CB2 in 2000 and grown CB2 into a multi-chanintroduced children’s retailer nel business across the United States. The Land of Nod to the “Thanks in large Crate and Barrel family measure to Barbara of brands in 2001. Turf’s leadership as ceo Before joining the retailer in 2009, Bopp and president, Crate was managing direcand Barrel is wellpositioned to extend tor and chief financial our reach as a global officer at Primondo home furnishing brand GmbH, a $6 billion MARTA CALLE German multi-chan- Crate and Barrel and design leader,” said Hans-Otto Schrader, nel retailer. ceo of the Otto Group, With more than 20 years of retail experience as a of which Crate and Barrel is a buyer and product developer, part HTT
Dan Hammer Exits Perfect Fit CHARLOTTE , N.C. — Perfect Fit president and ceo Dan Hammer has left the company as of earlier this month. His responsibilities will be handled by Marc Schechter, a partner in The Anderson Group
of Bloomfield Hills, Mich., which acquired Perfect Fit in June 2010. Schechter previously helmed the manufacturing operation when co-founder Lou Morris retired upon the sale to The Anderson Group.
Hammer, an industry veteran, was brought on to lead Perfect Fit in July 2010. Last December, Perfect Fit announced it would spend more than $2 million to update it pillow production facility in Monroe, N.C. HTT
Joan Carpenter to Retire from 1888 Mills OAK B ROOK , I LL . — Joan Car-
penter, senior vp of retail sales, announced her retirement from 1888 Mills, effective Jan. 31, 2012. She began her career in retailing at Kaufmann’s in Pittsburgh and went on to work in sales with Cannon/Fieldcrest,
Ralph Lauren, and Oriental Weavers. She joined 1888 in 2005. “Joan Carpenter has had a stellar career in the textile industry. Her career has been further defined by the integrity and teamwork she displays with our customers, and our 1888 Mills
team every day,” said Fulton Allen, president, retail division. “1888 Mills have been lucky to have Joan part of our team and will miss her in the future, but wish her the best in retirement” The company has not yet named a replacement for Carpenter’s position. HTT
Texlynx Taps Pande for India branch L AHORE , PAKISTAN — Texlynx,
a global sourcing agency, has hired Manoj Pande to start up a Texlynx India office in Delhi, effective Nov. 15. Pande most recently has
htt111102_016 16
been vp of sourcing and merchandising at Welspun India. Prior to that, he spent several years at American Pacific Enterprises’ sourcing office in New Delhi, rising to the position of
regional director for operations. He moved to American Pacific from his position as a senior manager at SGS India, a global inspection, verification, testing and certification company. HTT
Urban Outfitters Restructures Senior Organization PHILADELPHIA —Urban Outfitters
Inc. announced senior leadership changes as it reported its third quarter sales results recently. David McCreight has been appointed ceo of Anthropologie Group, effective Nov. 15. He will oversee Anthropologie North America, Anthropologie Europe and BHLDN. Charles Kessler, formerly with Coach Inc. and Abercrombie & Fitch, joined the Urban Outfitters brand as chief merchandising officer, and Wendy McDevitt has been appointed president of Terrain, the company’s nascent garden center concept. McCreight was president of Under Armour from 2008 until 2010 and president of Lands’ End from 2005 to 2008. He was senior vp of merchandising at Lands’ End from 2003 to 2005 and senior vp/gmm of Disney Stores from 2001 to 2003. McCreight had been president of Smith and Hawken. He began his career in various merchandising positions at Saks, The May Company and The Limited. Anthropologie Brand’s co-president positions have been eliminated, the company said.
Wendy Wurtzburger, a 13-year veteran of Anthropologie, will continue to serve as chief merchandising and design officer. Kristin Norris, a 19-year veteran of the company, has been appointed chief creative officer. Denise Albright has been appointed coo after serving as executive director of planning and allocation since she joined the company in 2005. “The creation of the group ceo role streamlines our organization structure and is pivotal in the development of our multi-brand growth strategy,” said Glen Senk, Urban Outfitters’ ceo. For the third quarter ended Oct. 31, total company sales increased 6% to $610 million. Comps fell 3% for the quarter overall, including direct-toconsumer results. Store-based comps declined 7% for the quarter. By brand, comps were flat at Urban Outfitters, dropped 7% at Anthropologie, and jumped 14% at Free People. During the quarter, the company opened seven Urban Outfitters stores, four Anthropologie stores, four Free People stores and one BHLDN store. HTT
Vision Fabrics Adds Two INDIANAPOLIS — Vision-Fabrics USA – a division of J. Ennis Fabrics serving the home furnishings, contract, hospitality and outdoor markets — recently added to its sales efforts. Vision has hired Steven and Karen Fisher to handle territory management for the state of Florida. They will be responsible for developing business in the retail fabric store, fabric jobber and furniture manufacturing segments. Prior to joining Vision Fabrics, the Fishers were proprietors in a manufacturing firm targeting the decorative accessories and household furnishings markets. After selling their com-
pany in 1997 they moved into textile sales and marketing. In Canada, Vision Fabrics has hired Carlos Soares to cover Canada’s Greater Toronto area. Soares will focus on the residential upholstered furniture market segment or Vision Fabrics, the converting division of J. Ennis Fabrics. “Carlos is a great addition to our team of sales professionals,” said Liana Montagnese, the company’s Ontario regional sales manager. “His passion, experience and innovative approach to the furniture market make him an ideal fit for the culture of our company and our customers.” HTT
11/16/2011 5:37:36 PM
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BUSINESS TodaY Macy’s Home Department Walmart Customer Fares Well in 3Q Shopping Carefully
C I N C I N N AT I — Macy’s home store sales were “good” during the third quarter, with the best results stemming from textiles as well as furniture and luggage. But its omnichannel strategy marrying in-store and online businesses stole the show. Online sales, for macys.com and bloomingdales.com combined, were up 39.8% in the quarter and 39.4% year to date compared to the same periods last year. “Our internet and mobile sites are generating well not only on their own, but they’re helping drive sales into stores,” cfo Karen Hoguet said. “But even with the very strong online business, our
store business is stronger than ever. So they really are working in tandem,” she said during the retailer’s quarterly call earlier this month. She said Macy’s omnichannel customer “spends more with us. And actually, [the omnichannel initiative] is turning out to be far better in churning sales growth than we ever we thought.” Sales for the quarter ended Oct. 29 rose 4.1% to $5.85 billion. Comps increased 4.0% gain. Online comps contributed 1.5 percentage points to the comp, Macy’s reported. Third quarter net income ballooned to $139 million from just $10 million last year. Earnings
per share rose to 32 cents compared 2 cents in last year’s third quarter, which included expenses of 6 cents per share associated with the repurchase of debt. Year to date, tot al sales climbed 5.7% to $17.68 billion, and comps were up 5.3%. Net income for the 39 weeks nearly tripled to $511 million from $180 million. EPS was $1.18, compared to 42 cents in the year-ago period. Excluding debt repurchase expenses, last year’s EPS was 52 cents. Terry Lundgren, corporate chairman, president and ceo, said Bloomingdale’s “also enjoyed a strong quarter,” both in stores and online. HTT
Online Shopping Jumps 13% in 3Q R ESTON , VA . — Online retailer spending rose 13% to $36.3 billion during the third quarter, according to ComScore. It marked the fourth consecutive quarter of doubledigit growth year-over-year and the eighth consecutive quarter of positive growth, the digital measuring agency reported.
“More consumers than ever before are relying on the online channel for product and pricing information, which along with the Internet’s fundamental appeal of convenience and attractive pricing, are contributing to the sustained upward momentum in e-commerce spending,” said ComScore
c h a i r m a n G i a n F u l g o ni . The overall number of buyers rose 22%, and 74% of all Internet users made at least one online purchase during the quarter. The most-purchased categories were: digital content and subscriptions, event tickets, jewelry and watches, consumer electronics and computer software. HTT
Same-store sales
Comps Ticked up in 2nd Week of November N E W YO R K — Same-store sales rose 3.3% in the second week of November following a 3.1% gain the prior week, according to the Johnson Redbook Retail Sales Index. Month-to-date, November was up 3.2% compared to November of last year, relative to a target of a 4.1% gain. Month-over-month showed a 1.5% gain compared to October, relative to a target of a 2.4% gain. Veterans Day promotions helped to lift traffic and sales in the week, Redbook research Catlin Levis noted. “Most retailers said they were satisfied
htt111102_018_020 18
Johnson Redbook Index Second week of November, year-over-year % change WEEK
DED EN
11/5
Department stores* 2.2 Discounters 3.5 Redbook Index 3.1
11/12
11/19
2.5 3.7 3.3
11/26
MONTH TARGET
2.4 3.6 3.2
3.1 4.7 4.1
*Including chain stores and traditional department stores Source: Johnson Redbook Index
with the progression of this closely watched month, which is expected to strengthen gradually into the Thanksgiving Day weekend.” Most retailers have already launched into holiday sales mode ahead of Black Friday, and many have announced
extended Black Friday shopping hours, as well as pricematching and lay-away programs. Some retailers said they had seen an increase in competitor promotions, but were maintaining their own programs close to planned levels, said Levis.” HTT
BENTONVILLE, ARK.— Same-store sales for Walmart U.S. finally eked into positive territory during the third quarter after nine consecutive quarters of decline, but the retailer said its core customer remains hard-pressed. “While we feel good about the progress in our stores, our customers remain concerned about jobs, and only one in 10 Walmart Moms that we surveyed view the state of the U.S. economy as good.They want to save money. They’re juggling credit cards, using coupons, and skipping restaurants and vacations. There is a real sense that the economic strain is taking its toll,” said Mike Duke, president and ceo of Wal-Mart Stores Inc. In pre-recorded remarks about the quarter released earlier this month, Walmart U.S. president and ceo Bill Simon said slow housing sale continue to impinge upon discretionary purchases in home. The department’s comp for the quarter
was a low single-digit negative, he said. The department, he added, is experiencing “increased momentum from expansion in home basics and opening price point items, as well as modular updates.” Sales at Walmart U.S. rose 2.7% to $63.8 billion for the quarter ended Oct. 31, with comps up 1.3% (excluding the impact of fuel sales). Operating income for U.S. discount stores rose 5.1% to $4.6 billion. Sam’s Club sales climbed 9.5% to $13.3 billion, with comps up 5.7% (excluding fuel sales). Operating income increased 6.3% to $390 million The total corporation’s overall profit slipped 2.9% to $3.34 billion. Earnings per share rose to 96 cents compared to 95 cents in last year’s 3Q. Total sales jumped 8.2% to $109.5 billion, which included $2.1 billion in sales from acquisitions in South Africa and the UK. HTT
NRF: Retail Container Traffic to Dip in November WASHINGTON — With most holiday season merchandise already en route to store shelves, import cargo volume at the nation’s major retail container ports has started to decline, resulting in a softer year-over-year forecast for November by the National Retail Federation. The monthly Global Port Tracker report, released earlier this month and produced by NRF and consulting firm Hackett Associates, is 1.9% below the same month last year. “As always, ret ailers are being very strategic with their supply chains,” said Jonathan Gold, NRF vp for supply chain and customs policy. “Although
sales are expected to be in line with the 10-year average, retailers are keeping inventory levels extremely lean and filling their stores wall-to-wall with discounts and promotions. Unlike in 2008, when the financial crisis caught everyone off-guard, retailers have a strong understanding of the consumer mindset this Christmas.” Global Port Tracker covers the U.S. ports of: Los Angeles/ Long Beach, Oakland, Seattle and Tacoma on the West Coast; New York/New Jersey, Hampton Roads, Charleston and Savannah on the East Coast, and Houston on the Gulf Coast. HTT
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Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
Business
TJX’s HomeGoods, Marmaxx Beat Expectations in 3Q FRAMINGHAM, MASS. — Unseasonably warm weather temporarily hindered apparel sales but created movement in home for The TJX Companies Inc. during the third quarter, aiding the company’s better-than-expected results. By nameplate, third-quarter results included: • Marmaxx: 8.2% increase in sales to $3.79 billion, and a 4% comp increase; • HomeGoods: a 15% sales increase to $551 million and a 5% comp gain;
• TJX Canada: a 5.7% increase in sales to $705 million but a 2% comp decline. HomeGoods “is becoming a more powerful brand every day, and we believe that its notchedup advertising in the fourth quarter will help us continue to gain market share,” said ceo Carol Meyrowitz during the company’s quarterly conference call with analysts last wek. Traffic and average ticket for the U.S. divisions were both up slightly, “which bodes well for our fourth quarter,” she noted.
Companywide, net income for the quarter ended Oct. 29 rose 15% to $406 million and earnings per share were $1.06, versus 92 cents per share in the year-ago quarter. Total sales increased 5% to $5.8 billion, and consolidated comparable store sales grew 3%. Meyrowitz said November is off to a strong start. The company boosted its guidance for 4Q comps, which it now expects to rise 2% to 3%. Previously, it forecasted a gain of 1% to 2%. HTT
NRF: October Retail Sales Boosted by Discretionary Spending W A S H I N G T O N — Discretionary purchases pushed October’s retail sales growth across the board, giving retailers hope for the holiday selling season, said the National Retail Federation. Based on NRF’s most recent data, retail sales results last month were “impressive,” up 0.7% from September and 4.7% over last October. Last month also market the 16th consecutive month of retail industry sales increases. Similarly, October retail sales released last week by the U.S.
Commerce Department showed that total retail sales — which include non-general merchandise categories such as autos, gasoline stations and restaurants - rose 0.5% seasonally adjusted month-to-month and 6.7% unadjusted year-over-year. “Retailers’ early holiday promotions seemed to strike the right chord with shoppers last month,” said Matthew Shaw, NRF president and ceo. “Knowing the economy is still a big factor in customers’ shopping decisions, retailers will continue to offer great deals and ex-
ceptional value throughout the holiday season.” A d d e d J a c k K l ei n h e n z , NRF chief economist: “October retail sales support the assertion that consumers have a distinct desire to spend, bolstering hopes for solid sales growth in November and December. This momentum bodes well for this holiday season.” Earlier this month, NRF forecast holiday sales to rise 2.8% this year to $466 billion —a figure that combines retail sales in the months of November and December. HTT
Home Depot Beats Expectations
Lowe’s Profit Slumps
ATLANTA — Home Depot’s net earnings rose 12% to $934 million,
MOORESVILLE, N.C. — Lowe’s re-
or 60 cents per share, during the recent third quarter. Sales were up 4.4% to $17.3 billion. Total comps climbed 4.2%, while U.S. comps increased 3.8%. Upon announcing the results, the home improvement retail boosted its fiscal year guidance. Home Depot now expects earnings per share to grow 18% to $2.38 for the year. It previously projected fiscal EPS of $2.34. HTT
ported a 44.3% drop in net earnings to $225 million, with store closings and other discontinued projects taking a $336 million bite out of total profit. Earnings per share for the third quarter ended Oct. 28 fell 37.9% to 18 cents. Sales rose 2.3% to $11.9 billion, with comps up 0.7%. “Our performance is not at the level we expect relative to the market,” commented Robert Niblock, Lowe’s chairman, president and ceo. “We are making the changes necessary to right size the organization, improve speed to market and enhance the shopping experience.” HTT
Dillard’s Profit Jumps in 3Q LITTLE ROCK , ARK. — Dilliard’s earnings per share more than doubled to 50 cents for the fourth quarter, up from 22 cents in the year-ago quarter. Net income set a record for the third quarter, up 85% to $26.6 million.
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Merchandise sales rose 3.6% to $1.36 billion, with comps up 5%. Total revenues — which include sales generated by Dillard’s construction business, CDI Contractors — rose 2.9% to $1.38 billion. HTT
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Home Still Hurting at JCPenney PLANO, TEXAS — Home, once a star at JCPenney, continues to be its worst business, with the poor performance of window and furniture particularly dragging down the department. During last week’s third quarter conference call, executive chairman Mike Ullman quoted business magnet Warren Buffet, who in a Nov. 14 television interview had said the U.S. housing market is in a depression, not a recession. “This is a transition year,” Ullman told investors. That is especially true for the company’s online business, where home previously accounted for 55% of sales. For the third quarter ended Oct. 29, Penney swung to a net loss of $143 million, or 67 cents per share including restructuring charges, including an early retirement program for long-
term employees and the sale of the company’s outlet business. Absent the charges, net income was $24 million, or 11 cents per share, nearly half of last year’s 3Q profit of $44 million, or 19 cents per share. “While our more affluent customers continued to respond well to JCPenney’s attractions, the moderate customer continues to have limited discretionary spending capability, and that was apparent during the quarter,” said Ullman. Softer sales and stepped up promotions lopped 160 basis points off gross margin, which came in a 37.4% of sales. Total sales fell 4.8% to $3.986 billion, with comps down 1.6%. Internet sales decline 5.4% to $341 million. Women’s accessories and men’s apparel were the strongest performers online. HTT
JLo and Marc Anthony Find Bliss — If only at Kohl’s MENOMONEE FALLS, WIS. — The
September launch of the Jennifer Lopez and marc Anthony collections helped spur impressive third quarter performance at Kohl’s. Kevin Mansell, chairman, president and ceo said the his-andhers program, “met our aggressive sales plans, and exceeded the size of any previous brand launch by a substantial degree in sales.” The JLo/Marc Anthony program was the largest merchandise launch in the company’s history, rolling out at all of Kohl’s 1,127 units and www.kohls.com concurrently across multiple departments. On that note, private and exclusive brands “continue to increase in penetration,” having nabbed 51% of Kohl’s 3Q sales, up about 270 basis points. In the private brand portfolio, apt. 9, So and urban Pipeline all reported double-digit increases, as did Fila Sport, Food Network, Lauren Conrad, Mudd, and Simply Vera Vera Wang, he said. Currently, home makes
up about one-third of Kohl’s ecommerce business versus less than 20% of the retailer’s total business. August performance lagged, but results in September and October came in on the high-end of Kohl’s guidance, he said. Home comps fell in line with company average, according to Mansell. Net income jumped 20% to $211 million, or 80 cents per share. Sales rose 3.8% to $4.4 billion, with comps up 2.1%. Year to date, earnings per share increased 26% to $2.56 and net income grew 13.6% to $711 million, or $2.03 per diluted share, in the same period last year. Sales for the nine months were up 3.5% to $12.8 billion, and comparable store sales increased 1.7%. Because of the strong third quarter performance and its expectations for the fourth quarter, Kohl’s raised its fiscal 2011 guidance to $4.41 to $4.52 per share from $4.34 to $4.49 per share. HTT
11/16/2011 5:23:35 PM
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Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
Calendar to Feb. 2) (914) 421-3200 www.nyhometextilesmarketweek.com
December 4–7 Showtime Fabric Fair Market Square, Textile Tower, High Point, N.C. (336) 885-6842 www.itma-showtime.com
28 – February 2 New York International Gift Fair Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, Passenger Ship Terminal Piers, New York (800) 272-7469 www.nyigf.com
January 2012 9 – 10 Dallas Fabric Show Dallas Market Hall, Dallas (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
29 – February 1 Intirio Flanders Expo, Gent, Belgium +32 9-243-84-50 www.intirio.be
11 – 14 Heimtextil Frankfurt Fair & Exhibition Center Frankfurt am Main, Germany (770) 984-8016 heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com
29 – February 2 CGTA Gift Show Toronto International Centre; Toronto Congress Centre, Toronto (416) 679-0170 www.cgta.org/Assoc/Home. aspx
11 – 18 Atlanta International Gift and Home Furnishings Market AmericasMart, Atlanta (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com
12 – 15 The Atlanta International Area Rug Market AmericasMart, Atlanta (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com
14 – 17 The Canadian Home Furnishings Market (TCHFM) The International Centre Mississauga, Ontario (514) 866-3631 www.tchfm.com
14 – 17 Domotex Hannover Hannover Fairgrounds, Hannover, Germany (609) 987-1202 www.domotex.de
15 – 18 National Retail Federation Convention & EXPO Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York (202) 626-8162 www.nrf.com
30 – February 3 Center, New York (770) 984-8016 www.texworldusa.com
Hall, Dallas (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
Las Vegas Market World Market Center, Las Vegas (702) 599-9621 lasvegasmarket.com
16 – 22
20 – 24
February 2012
imm cologne The Exhibition Center Cologne, Germany (773) 326-9920 or +49-221821-0 www.imm-cologne.com
Maison & Objet Parc des Expositions, Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris (888) 522-5001 www.maison-objet.com
5–9 Spring Fair The National Exhibition Centre (NEC), Birmingham, UK (609) 921-0222 www.springfair.com
www.hometextilestoday.com www.facebook.com/httmag EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jennifer Marks 10 Ocean Blvd #8B Atlantic Highlands, N.J. 07716 (732) 204-2012 | jnegley@hometextilestoday.com PUBLISHER/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Warren Shoulberg (646) 805-0226 | wshoulberg@hometextilestoday.com SENIOR EDITOR Cecile B. Corral 428 Bianca Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 661-7493 | cbcorral@aol.com MANAGING EDITOR Julie Murphy (646) 805-0224 | jmurphy@hometextilestoday.com CONTRIBUTING GRAPHIC ARTIST Desiree Nunez (646) 805-0233 | dnunez@giftsanddec.com DIRECTOR OF MARKET RESEARCH Dana French (336) 605-1091 | dfrench@sandowmedia.com ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, ACCOUNT MANAGER CHINA Jeff Reeves (336) 605-1009 | jreeves@hometextilestoday.com ACCOUNT MANAGER NORTHEAST/MIDWEST/ WEST COAST/CANADA Mary McLoughlin (646) 805-0227 | mmcloughlin@hometextilestoday.com CLASSIFIED AD SALES Spencer Whittle (336) 605-1027 swhittle@sandowmedia.com Karen Hancock (336) 605-1047 khancock@sandowmedia.com MANAGER, EUROPE Mirek Kraczkowski Tel: 48 22 401 70 01; Fax: 48 22 401 70 16 | kraczko@aol.com MANAGER, INDIA Kaushal Shah Cell: 91-9821715431; Tel: 91-22-6663 4597 / 24988658 Fax: 91-22-66634596 | Kaushal@kaushals.com ONLINE SALES MANAGER Penny Schneck (336) 605-1084 | pschneck@sandowmedia.com PRODUCTION MANAGER Rich Lamb Tel: (336) 605-1074; Fax: (336) 605-1143 | rlamb@ sandowmedia.com DIRECTOR, WEB OPERATIONS Chris Schultz | (336) 605-1076 | cschultz@sandowmedia.com MANAGER, CLIENT SERVICES, WEB ADVERTISING Dan Sage | (336) 605-1080 | dsage@sandowmedia.com E-MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER Missy Axe | (336) 605-1005 | maxe@sandowmedia.com DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE MARKETING Allison Ternes (704) 573-9007 | aternes@sandowmedia.com PRESIDENT, FURNITURE TODAY GROUP Kevin Castellani (336) 605-1034 | kcastellani@sandowmedia.com FOUNDING EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Carole Sloan 1979-2011
22 – 25 17 – 23 CMC Gift & Home Market California Market Center Los Angeles www.californiamarketcenter. com
Interiors Birmingham The National Exhibition Centre (NEC), Birmingham, UK +44 (0) 20 7921 8408 www.interiorsbirmingham.com
24 – 26 18 – 24 Dallas Holiday & Home Expo Dallas Market Center, Dallas (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
Surfaces Mandalay Bay Convention Center Las Vegas (866) 860-1975 www.surfaces.com
18 – 24
27 – February 2
Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Dallas Market Center, Dallas (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
New York Home Textiles Market Week At 7 W New York (Jan. 27 to Feb. 2) At the New York International Gift Fair at Jacob K. Javits Convention Center & Pier 94, (Jan. 28 to Feb. 2) At 230 Fifth Avenue (Jan. 28
16 – 18
20 – 23
Texworld USA Jacob K. Javits Convention
F!NDS Dallas Temp Show World Trade Center, Market
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360 Park Avenue South, New York, N.Y. 10010 Tel: (646) 805-0227; Fax: (646) 365-2307
10 – 14 Ambiente Frankfurt Fair & Exhibition Center, Frankfurt am Main, Germany (770) 984-8016 www.ambiente.messefrankfurt. com/frankfurt
13 – 16 Texworld Paris Le Bourget Exhibition Centre, Paris +33-155-268-989 www.texworld.messefrankfurt. com
14 – 16 Expofil Parc des Expositions, Paris-Nord Villepinte, France +33 (0)4 72 60 65 55 www.expofil.com
SANDOW MEDIA PRESIDENT AND CEO Adam I. Sandow CFO/COO Christopher Fabian VP CREATIVE AND EDITORIAL Yolanda E. Yoh EVP, GROUP PUBLISHER James N. Dimonekas SUBSCRIPTIONS: U.S.A. (866) 456-0405 All other countries: (515) 247-2984 HTTcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com FAX SUBSCRIPTIONS: 1-866-310-7181 THE WEEKLY BUSINESS AND FASHION NEWSPAPER OF THE HOME TEXTILES INDUSTRY® 360 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10010 Telephone: (646) 805-0227 Fax: (646) 365-2307 USPS 497-490 HOME TEXTILES TODAY (USPS 497-490) (ISSN 0195-3184) is published 29 times a year except for the weeks of 1/3, 2/14, 2/28, 3/20, 4/11, 4/25, 5/2, 5/16/,5/30, 6/13, 6/27, 7/4, 8/1, 8/15, 8/29, 9/5, 9/26, 10/17, 10/31, 11/14, 11/28, 12/12, 12/26 by Furniture/Today Media Group, 360 Park Avenue South, 17th fl., New York, NY, 10010 a subsidiary of Sandow Media LLC, 3731 NW 8th Ave, Boca Raton, FL 33431. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. HOME TEXTILES TODAY copyright ©2011 by Sandow Media LLC. Annual subscription rates: U.S. and Canada $169.97; 1 year, other countries $325.99 for surface mail and $525.00 for airmail. All payments must be made in U.S. currency. Subscription inquiries: HOME TEXTILES TODAY, PO Box 5879, Harlan, IA 51593-1379. Phone: (866) 456-0405. HOME TEXTILES TODAY and THE BUSINESS AND FASHION NEWSPAPER OF THE HOME TEXTILES INDUSTRY are registered trademarks of Sandow Media LLC, used under license. Sandow Media LLC does not assume and hereby disclaims liability to any person for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions in the material contained herein, regardless of whether such errors result from negligence, accident or any other cause whatsoever. (Posted under Canadian International Publication Agreement No.40624074. Sandow Media/CDS (Mint Hill) POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOME TEXTILES TODAY, P.O. Box 5879, Harlan, IA, 51593-1379 Email: HTTcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: RCS International; APC; PO Box 503, RPO West Beaver Creek, Rich Hill, ON L4B 4R6
11/18/2011 12:08:31 PM
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Home Textiles Today
November 21, 2011
Calendar 29 – March 3 Intertextil Shanghai Home – Spring Edition Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China +852 2238 9983 www.messefrankfurt.com/hk
March 2012 4 Home Textiles Today’s New York Winter Market Kickoff Party (646) 805-0226 www.hometextilestoday.com
5–8 New York Home Fashions Market Home Fashion Products Association
(212) 297-2122 (Kellen Co.) www.homefashionproducts.com
14 – 16 Interstoff Asia Essential— Spring Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. (852) 2238-9917 www.interstoff.messefrankfurt.com
17 – 19 Atlanta Spring Gift , Home Furnishings and Holiday Market AmericasMart, Atlanta (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com
22 – 25
April 2012
Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Dallas Market Center, Dallas (800) 325-6587 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
3–5
25 –28
21 – 26
ASD Las Vegas Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas (310) 481-7300 www.asdamd.com
High Point Market International Home Furnishings Center (IHFC), High Point, N.C. (336) 869-1000 www.highpointmarket.org
27 – 29
26 – 28
Domotex asia/CHINAFLOOR Shanghai New International Convention Center, Shanghai, China +86-21-6247-7668 www.domotexasiachinafloor.com
gulfBID Bahrain International Exhibition and Convention Centre, Manama, Kingdom of Bahrain +973-1729-3131
Lineapelle Fair District, Bologna, Italy +39-02-880-7711 www.lineapelle-fair.it
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