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Print Post Approved PP100007268
No.712 March 2015
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
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GET REWARDED WITH THE NEW SPEEDIBAKE RANGE
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For every $120 you spend, receive a $20 Coles Myer Gift Card*
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Print Post Approved PP100007268
No.712 March 2015
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
foodservice
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accommodation
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beverage
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management
PLUS: 10 tips to reduce staff costs
Brunching out The perks of entering the early morning trade
Barrel aged cocktails ‘The final frontier of cocktail making’
Doggy bags What are the rules? Advice from John Hart
What happened to fair work? Industry tarnished by unscrupulous operators
SPZ0055_C_HM[L1116X].pdf
Page
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17/02/2015,
5:57
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AUSSIE PEACHES ARE BACK ON THE MENU
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CALL 1800 805 168 ‘SPC’ is a registered trade mark of SPC Ardmona.
SPC 100% for Aussies
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10 editor’s note
W
No.712 March 2015
Print Post Approved PP100007268
hat will our front of house teams look like in, say, 50 years? If we’re to follow Asia’s lead, diners’ orders will be taken and prepared by robots, and delivered by drones. Sure, penalty rates and staff turnover would be things of the past, and efficiency would sky-rocket (dishes at Wishdoing restaurant in Shanghai can be prepared in under three minutes!) but what would be the real cost of this Brave New World? I recently tried to give up coffee for a week (a word of advice: don’t calculate your annual caffeine spend). According to my fellow-addicted colleagues, the barista at our much-loved cafe asked after me on day one of my abstinence. Clearly missing my company (and my $3.50 a day), on day two he sent a coffee straight to the office, just how I like it, with the words ‘You Can’t’ written on the takeaway lid. Willpower, gone. I returned the following day, admitting defeat. Was it clever marketing, or a bit stalker-esque? It doesn’t really matter; it made me smile and of course the gesture was greatly appreciated, being deadline week and all. So if you’re a bit like me and you find the whole idea of robotic staff a little souless, remember a time when you either experienced or delivered great customer service, and take refuge knowing that its most important element is good old fashioned human interaction.
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PLUS: 10 tips to reduce staff costs
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Brunching out The perks of entering the early morning trade
Barrel aged cocktails ‘The final frontier of cocktail making’
Doggy bags What are the rules? Advice from John Hart
cover
What happened to fair work? Industry tarnished by unscrupulous operators
French toast served up at Devon Cafe in Sydney.
12
contents FEATURES
10 The barrel revolution
REGULARS
6
Is this the final frontier of cocktail making?
12 Brunching out
News
24 Industry Observer
Industry news; infographic, Out &About.
8
The perks of the morning trade.
New openings
25 Workplace
Some recent arrivals on the hospitality block.
16 Bringing home the bacon Why pork is making its mark.
What happened to the concept of fair work?
The cost of non-compliance.
26 Rant 9
Christine Salins wonders if women make better sommeliers than men?
18 Tabletop trends What does your tabletop say about your offering?
What are ‘celebrity chefs’ really selling?
Wine
28 Shelf space The latest food service products.
22 Ken Burgin Editor: Danielle Bowling danielle.bowling@ cirrusmedia.com.au
PUBLISHER Martin Sinclair martin.sinclair@cirrusmedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Danielle Bowling Ph: (02) 8484 0667 danielle.bowling@cirrusmedia.com.au JOURNALISTS Aoife Boothroyd Ph: (02) 8484 0907 aoife.boothroyd@cirrusmedia.com.au
27 Doggy bags What are the rules?
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30 Diary Industry events to take note of.
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Ten top tips to help you cut your wage costs.
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newsonline
Robots added to front of house teams drone waiters. Each drone is capable of carrying about two and a half kilos and is chartered around the restaurants by a computer program using infrared sensors placed around the venue. The front of house teams will still comprise living and breathing wait staff; the drones’ key task is to ferry food from the kitchen to a serving station where staff then deliver it to patrons. Infinium Robotics developed the drone waiters to address the staffing issues currently being experienced in Singapore – a result of a government crackdown on cheap foreign labour. Its chief executive, Junyang Woon, told BBC the drones free up staff to “interact more with customers and enhance their dining experience.” Edward Chia, managing director of The Timbre Group, said he now has the capacity to open more outlets due to the savings he’s made on wage costs.
VALENTINE’S DAY
A number of restaurants throughout China have engaged the services of robots to greet, seat and cook dishes for patrons. At Haohai Robot Restaurant in Harbin, China, diners are greeted by a robotic waiter (“Earth person, hello!”), then seated. According to PCMag.com, patrons then order their meal with the robot, and dishes are prepared by a robot chef. After diners have completed their meals, dishes are cleared by robot floor staff, and washed by a robot dish hand. Wishdoing Restaurant in Shanghai is also embracing modern day technologies in the kitchen; its robot chefs are capable of creating a number of dishes in under three minutes including mapo tofu and Kung Pao chicken, amongst others. In Singapore, restaurant group The Timbre Group is actively trying to reduce front of house costs by trialling the use of in-house
Source: Dimmi
Out & about 23 January Murray Valley Pork M lunch with Manu
Industry events the Hospitality team attended recently...
5 February Kosher kitchen launch @ InterContinental
9 February Masterclass filming @ Herbie’s Spices
11 February Food truck filming @ Manly
12 February The Ternary launch @ Accor Sydney
17 February Hugos Manly Deck launch with Veuve
For other stories and information please visit our website: www.hospitalitymagazine.com.au 6
hospitality | March 2015
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newopenings
Sagra
Sagra, designed over three levels, has opened in the Melbourne suburb of Malvern. The venue was conceived by entrepreneur, Ross Chessari and is inclusive of a dining room, alimentari e enoteca, art gallery, rooftop bar and function spaces. Executive chef Leandro Panza of Melbourne’s Artusi along with food and beverage director, Silvana Iacobaccio, have created a menu that is driven by quality produce. The menu starts with “Per iniziare,” a selection of 10 to 15 smaller dishes which encourage sharing, followed by “Per continuare”, mains consisting of hand-made pastas as well as grains and braises. A Josper grill is at the heart of the kitchen and is featured in the “Le grigliate dal Josper” section of the menu, showcasing charred meat, poultry and vegetable dishes. The fully enclosable rooftop bar and lounge will serve a range of cicchetti and Italian style sliders.
Owner: Ross Chessari Head chef: Leandro Panza Where: 256-258 Glenferrie Road, Malvern VIC Hours: Daily from 7.30am Web: www.sagra.com.au
Kazbah Souk
Renowned for its Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and North African fusion of flavours, the opening of Kazbah Souk in Potts Point will mark the fifth offering from the Kazbah Group, founded by Zahi Azzi and his wife Penny in 1998. The duo opened the first Kazbah on Darling street in Sydney’s Balmain over 15 years ago. The new Potts Point venue will have a broader offering than the group’s other venues. As well as a formal dining space and cocktail bar serving bar-side meals, Kazbah Souk will have an Arabian bakery at the front of the venue which will offer quick breakfast and lunch bites, house-made breads and traditional Arabian sweet treats.
Owner: Zahi Azzi Head chef: Quim Hernandez Maluquer Where: 9-15 Bayswater Road, Potts Point, NSW Hours: Daily from 7.30am Web: www.kazbah.com.au
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Eagles Nest Rooftop Bar
Eagles Nest Rooftop Bar is on the twelvth storey of Brisbane’s Point Hotel in Kangaroo Point. The venue features minimalist white leather cube seating and a custom-built Moet at Chandon Ice Imperial Bar. Other than bubbles, the beverage offering includes contemporary and classic cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and local and imported ales. A bar menu created by The Point Hotel’s head chef, Marcus Turner, features simple bar snacks including oysters, manchego croquetas with quince paste, tomato and bocconcini arancini and antipasto platters. At this stage, the bar will be open on Sundays only with a view to extend the opening hours depending on popularity.
Owner: Best Management Group Head chef: Marcus Turner Where: 21 Lambert Street, Kangaroo Point, QLD Phone: 1800 088 388 Web: www.thepointbrisbane.com.au
Thousand Pound Wine Bar
Thousand Pound is a relaxed wine bar located on the boarder of NSW and Victoria, in the town of Rutherglen. Thousand Pound features an extensive wine list, predominantly sourced from family-owned wineries, and humble bar food including house-smoked salmon and local marinated olives from the nearby hatted Terrace Restaurant. The venue is the brainchild of Denis Lucey (Bottega Melbourne) and the All Saints Estate siblings and is housed in an original Victorian store front on Rutherglen’s historic Main Street. The venue’s design features a monochrome interior with bar seating and high tables in the main room, and wine barrels that adorn the hallway.
Owners: Denis Lucey, Eliza Brown, Angela Brown and Nick Brown. Head chef: Simon Arkless Where: 82 Main Street, Rutherglen, VIC Hours: Thursday to Saturday from 5pm Web: www.thousandpound.com.au
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beverageswine
Battle of the
SENSES Are women the fairer sex when it comes to tasting (and selling) wine? Christine Salins reports.
I
t’s long been claimed that women have more sensitive palates than men. I recall going to wine tastings in the early ‘90s and hearing some of Australia’s leading winemakers, many of them men, asserting that women have the upper hand in tasting wine. There are some physiological reasons why women might have an advantage in tasting the nuances in wine. Women are said to have a more acute sense of smell, thanks to the female hormone estrogen, and it’s often been noted that smell plays a large role in our sense of taste. The notion gained traction in 1999, when Dr Linda Bartoshuk, at the Yale University School of Medicine, came up with the “supertaster” phenomenon. Testing participants on their sensitivity to bitterness, she found that roughly half the population were ordinary “tasters”, while the rest were split equally between “non-tasters” and “supertasters”. Supertasters were found to have more than 100 times more tastebuds per square centimetre than regular tasters, and women were twice as likely as men to be among this small sensitive group. British wine critic Jancis Robinson, who has written at length on the subject, is said to be a supertaster. Whether any of this bears any relation to women’s increasing presence in the sommelier trade is a moot point. What is clear is that there is a marked shift from a decade or so ago when men accounted for about 90 percent of sommeliers across the 35,000 restaurants in the Restaurant & Catering Association. Now, 40 percent of all graduates of the Sydney Wine Academy at North Sydney are female, and many of Sydney’s top restaurants boast female sommeliers. Breanna Lawler, venue manager at Flying
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Fish Restaurant and a graduate When diners assume she is a of The Hotel School Sydney, waitress, as sometimes happens, couldn’t be drawn on wheth“I just go with it. At the end of er women make better wine the day we are all employed tasters, saying only that to be hospitable and to “some women are hyperexceed guests’ expectasensitive tasters”. tions. Whether you are What I love most the general manager or a about wine is that dewaiter, it’s your job to go pending on the company above and beyond, and and your environment, (to) gauge exactly what it can taste different,” she the guests’ needs are.” says. “I think sensitive tast“Offering assistance ers have a tendency to steer with the wine list before the Breanna Lawler clear of highly tannic or highly guests ask is a way to start buildacidic wines.” ing your relationship with your guests Lawler says restaurants are increasingly and gaining their trust for you to assist in focussed on having an interesting, solid list with good the enjoyment of their night.” value wines rather than a long list just for the sake of Lawler encourages women planning to become it. Staff have to be able to “dissect what the customer sommeliers to “go for it”. is asking for, and adapt it to what is available on your “Wine is an amazing product which has the abililist at a price point which is reasonable.” ty to allow continual learning. It can be an expensive “Female sommeliers are more prevalent now as hobby, particularly if your friends enjoy a glass or I believe they have a different approach in wine ser- three, (but) that’s the best part about wine – everyvice … making the guest feel comfortable straight one has different palates and preferred styles.” away and offering appropriate recommendations. At the end of the day, whether or not women’s Studying and practicing wine service is a reward- palates are more sensitive than men’s, training is the ing and hands-on experience which is much more key to being a good sommelier. Serious wine profeseasily achieved with the number of flexible courses sionals, male and female, spend a lifetime training around and the number of new venues opening. It’s their palates. girl power in numbers.” “Learning to appreciate different methods of winLawler says it’s extremely rewarding to be able emaking and being able to open amazing wines from to impress corporate guests with sound wine knowl- across the globe is one thing – understanding the theedge. “An ability to do it in an unpretentious and ory behind why wines taste the way they do and the gracious way is true hospitality.” geography of different sites is another,” Lawler says.
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agedcocktails
Shaken, stirred …
or aged?
Bar managers are taking lessons from the world of wine, offering barrel aged cocktail lists. Danielle Bowling caught up with three of them between tastings.
“I
t’s a pain in the bum; let’s get that straight. But we would have done it anyway. It’s the final frontier of cocktail making. No other process gives you the same result.” Barrel aging cocktails, according to Linus Schaxmann, bar manager at The Noble Experiment in Victoria’s Collingwood, requires money, time, patience and a pretty impressive palette. But it’s all worth it once you taste the final product. The Noble Experiment has been aging cocktails for about 18 months, and Schaxmann currently has 10 barrels on the go, with another four on the way. “We’ve played with different types of wood; we’ve tried French oak, American oak – we use different woods for different cocktails. We’ve gotten a little geeky about it now, but basically, the barrel aging process softens the spirits down. It takes off any rough edges and helps the flavours to mingle together,” he told Hospitality.
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There are some hard and fast rules when it comes to barrel aging cocktails: no eggs and no dairy, for starters. Classic cocktails like negronis and Manhattans can only improve with age, Schaxmann says, but that doesn’t mean bar staff can’t get creative with the process. “We’re doing an espresso martini where we barrel age Woodford Reserve bourbon, with a coffee liqueur and Chambord, and we age it for about four weeks. Then we take it out and we bottle it. When we serve it, we top it with a warm white chocolate and coffee foam. So you can take a classic cocktail and give it a unique twist.” Also on the menu is a Zombie, a barrel aged blend of seven rums, chartreuse, maraschino and passionfruit liqueurs, finished off with citrus and a charred pineapple soda. “It’s funny – although chartreuse is quite a harsh flavour, when you’re finished aging it you get a really soft, approachable drink,” Schaxmann says. Once cocktails are taken out of the
Barrel aging 101: • • • • • •
No eggs, no dairy, no fruit. These can be added when serving, but DO NOT put them in the barrel. If in doubt, take it out. A cocktail is still enjoyable if you take it out a little early, but once it’s gone too far it can’t be saved. Keep some of a good batch as a control for future barrels. Taste, taste, taste and keep a logbook noting the flavours and development of the drink from week to week. Start small. Buy a small barrel and familiarise yourself with the process before investing in large (and expensive) barrels. Be organised, and think ahead. Remember, it takes weeks or even months for some cocktails to be aged adequately. If you sell out in one week and you don’t have another batch on-the-go, patrons will have a long wait between drinks.
barrel and bottled, they oxidise without any flavour being added. “Our oldest one is now 16 months old. So we’re going to give it another six months or so and have a vintage, so there’ll be a 2013, 2014, 2015 and it just continues to soften in the bot-
tle, which is amazing.” However at Africola, a South African themed restaurant and bar on Adelaide’s East Terrace, bar manager Andrew Cameron doesn’t see the value of bottling his aged cocktails. “I think bottling is just another ex-
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agedcocktails
pense. And to be honest, time isn’t as significant as the temperature … something that tastes a way at three months will taste exactly the same after two months in a warmer year.” Plus consistency – usually so important in the industry – isn’t that much of a priority for the bar team at Africola. “I’m going for a product that is inconsistent so I can actually have a conversation [with patrons],” he says. “Having something that can help you to gain people’s curiosity, and where you can talk about the process with them and why the drink changes over time, is a little bit more fun.” Africola has three five litre barrels, and Cameron says they’re the most significant cost for businesses establishing an aged cocktail list. “But it depends on the barrel,” he says. “To be honest, there are a lot of spirit representatives who donate barrels, but to get the more interesting ones, it does cost a little bit of money. My little barrel was $500 but it’s great. It has all this flavouring and it really works with the drinks.” The eponymously-named signature drink at Africola is aged for three months and comprises a house-made porcini cola syrup with fresh citrus, vanilla, dried porcini mushrooms, rooibos and black cardamom. Cameron makes a high proof tincture of fig leaves and black garlic and blends it with a South African brandy, then ages it in a Seppeltsfield port barrel. The drink is poured straight from the barrel, topped with soda and garnished with orange zest on a skewer. With 19 different barrels working away, Sydney’s O Bar and Dining is also getting creative with its aged cocktails. “Instead of just having individual cocktails in a barrel, we’ve started to blend some of them together as well,” says bar manager, Glen Wheeler. It’s all part of the Solera aging process, which involves fractional blending of the contents of different barrels at different ages, over time. “We blended two separate cocktails, so one barrel had all the ingredients of one cocktail and the other had a different cocktail in it, and then I blended those and added some other ingredients. It’s about experimenting; it’s trying different things rather than just doing individual barrels and pouring it off and serving.” While the barrels do most of the work, Wheeler says barrel aging is
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
The Noble Experiment’s Zombie cocktail.
quite labour intensive, not just because large volumes of the cocktail need to be made initially, but because the barrels’ contents needs to be regularly tasted and monitored, then bottled. “In regards to costs ... it’s more labour intensive and it’s more expensive, but you have to pass that on. Most of the cocktails here are $18 to $20, but the barrel aged ones are $25,” he says. Back in Melbourne, Linus Schaxmann says aging cocktails means patrons can be served quicker, but the time saved is then reinvested in other facets of customer service. “It’s not a time saving, but definitely a time shifting process. If a person orders an old fashioned, you get a chilled glass, an ice sphere, hit it with orange zest, get the cocktail and pour it over the ice sphere. What would be a seven or 10 minute process in a bar that’s three deep, you’re now getting done in a minute and a half, and they’re getting a better tasting drink. “We can also take the cocktail and pour it at the table, where we tell them about the process. So the time we’ve saved making the cocktail, is actually reinvested in giving the customer great service,” he says. “It’s a lot of work … but I think it’s worth it because we’re obsessed with giving the customer an amazing cocktail and an amazing experience.”
O Bar and Dining’s Glen Wheeler
Negronis and Manhattans only get better with age
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breakfasttrade
Brunching out Australian diners love breakfast and it seems restaurant operators do too, with a number of chefs keen to embrace early mornings over late nights, writes Aoife Boothroyd.
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breakfasttrade
A
ustralia really is at the top of the culinary game when it comes to breakfast. The days of soggy white toast with scrambled eggs and a pile of bacon are (largely) behind us, replaced with a wealth of inventive and delectable offerings that we couldn’t have dreamed of 10 or 15 years back. Much of this change has been driven by talented chefs eager to leave behind dinner service and the fine dining trade, and instead move towards cafes that specialise in breakfast and brunch. Not only are the hours more palatable, the warm and friendly community vibe that goes hand in hand with operating a local café means mornings are the best time for operators to get to know their customers, and to therefore establish a loyal clientele. Zach Tan of Devon Café in Sydney’s Surry Hills is a prime example. Previously of Guillaume at Bennelong and Pier, Tan wanted to share his fine diner skills, but execute them in a more relaxed, informal setting, and be all done by 3pm. “We saw a market in Sydney for quality, creative food and coffee for breakfast and brunch trading hours, and we jumped at the opportunity,” says Tan. The menu at Devon changes seasonally but Tan says that a firm favourite amongst customers is his Dr Seuss green eggs and ham - a dish made out of thick cut bacon, a slow cooked egg and various green ingredients including green ketchup, soy beans, pea puree and pea tendrils. Brioche French toast with strawberries, balsamic and strawberry cheesecake ice cream; house-made granola; and bruschetta with beetroot and goat’s curd mousse, avocado, red vein sorrel and poached eggs are a few other examples of what’s on offer at Devon. Doughnuts and cronuts are also firm favourites and are served either sweet or savoury. It’s all well and good to throw in the dinner service towel in favour of breakfast, but what are the realities of swapping late nights for early mornings? “Margins are slim for breakfast because there is a limit to how much consumers are willing to spend,” says Tan. “However we are finding that some people are more than willing to pay for a quality product; you just have to win their trust. Coffee is obviously not as profitable compared to alcoholic beverages but Australia has an exciting coffee culture and we are proud to be involved in it. The mark-up for coffee is solid, but because of the price point of coffee, you
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Cronuts by Devon Cafe
need to be able to do a reasonable quantity to be profitable. “My advice to chefs introducing a breakfast menu is to have a balanced menu. Take some risks and have fun with your dishes, but always listen to your customers’ needs.”
Brioche French Toast by Big Tree House
Keeping it simple Justin Park spent seven years in the kitchen at Peter Doyle @ The Quay as an executive chef before deciding to make the move over to the breakfast and lunch trade. Tired of the long hours and impact on his family life, Park decided to take a leap of faith by opening Big Tree House, a café located in the western Sydney suburb of Rydalmere. “Initially I was going to change to another restaurant but my wife suggested that I open my own business so I could spend more time with my family. The reason that I chose to open in Rydalmere was because the eastern and northern suburbs have lots of nice areas to dine out, but there aren’t many nice places to dine out in the western suburbs, where I live. “A lot of people have come in and told me that they appreciate what I’m doing, so the reception’s been great.” After securing a location, Park says that he engaged the local community to help him develop the menu for Big Tree House. “To be quite frank, when I opened the business, I didn’t actually have much experience with breakfast service. I did do breakfast when I worked at a few hotels in the past, but I mainly focussed
“The mark-up for coffee is solid, but ... you need to be able to do a reasonable quantity to be profitable.”
on lunch, dinner and canapés. So when I opened the business, I knew that I wanted to specialise in breakfast, but I didn’t really have many ideas of what to offer, so I asked my staff and customers what they would want on the menu and sort of went from there.” On the menu at Big Tree House you’ll find ricotta pancakes with caramelised banana; Goats on Toast – warm French goat’s cheese with honey and organic nuts on sourdough; and brioche French toast complete with vanilla mascarpone, maple syrup and fresh berries. You’ll also find classic dishes such as bacon and eggs and big breakfasts – all made
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breakfasttrade
Savoury Mince on Toast at Fiction
Dr Seuss Green Eggs and Ham
Friands and criossants at Devon Cafe.
with fresh, local produce. “People told me that they really wanted fresh, local produce. They want fresh ingredients over frozen or imported products. So we do daily prep and we cook with fresh food. We don’t do pre-cooking or anything like that, just fresh ingredients used to create good quality meals. We also do chef’s specials where we try to experiment with trendy dishes, but we mainly just make traditional breakfast food with really good ingredients.” Of course you don’t need to stop dinner service to capitalise on the breakfast trade. A number of all-
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day dining venues offering breakfast menus that are of the same calibre as their lunch and dinner offerings are popping up around the nation. Devon’s sister venue, Devon on Danks, as well as the recently revamped Coogee Bay Pavilion and Melbourne’s Magic Mountain Saloon all jump to mind.
A point of difference Fiction Bar and Restaurant located 35 minutes outside of Brisbane, recently launched a Sunday breakfast menu to take advantage of the early morning trade. Previously only
open for lunch and dinner, head chef Hayden Kremmer says that the decision to launch the menu was driven by customer demand. “We are right on the Raby Bay Marina so we have magnificent views first thing in the morning and we had a number of customers asking us to open for breakfast,” says Kremmer. “There is a lot of competition in the area for breakfast so we just wanted to offer something that was a bit different - a little bit more upmarket than the traditional bacon and eggs on toast, I guess.” Fiction’s breakfast menu includes
smoked salmon with twice cooked potatoes, semi dried tomatoes and asparagus; corn fritters with avocado and tomato salsa; and savoury mince on toast with a poached egg and dukkah. Kremmer says he intentionally left out the common go-to breakfast staples in favour of “something a little more upmarket”. “We’re not really offering the standard bacon and eggs and eggs benedict … We’re just trying to offer something a little bit different - a little bit more upmarket and a bit more niche to differentiate ourselves from the other restaurants in our area. “The most popular dish on the breakfast menu has been the green eggs and ham. A lot of people have been purchasing that and we have been getting a lot of good feedback on it. We’re also doing a maple glazed leg ham that we carve off the bone with pesto scrambled eggs and a tomato chutney chilli jam.” Although demand from diners is strong and the breakfast menu is proving popular, Kremmer admits that the extended trade on a Sunday comes at a cost. “That’s why we decided to try it for one day a week,” says Kremmer. “Obviously there are costs involved with opening earlier on a Sunday – staffing and stuff like that, but it seems to be paying off quite well.”
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
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1
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12909 ACC Hospitality Magazine Backcover Advert 1a.indd 1
20/02/15 2:40 PM
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Javier Codina’s suckling pig Image credit: Marcus Bell, Studio Impressions
porkgrowth
BR I NG I NG HOM E
THE BACON A combination of clever marketing and culinary prowess has shifted pork’s status on food service menus from neglected to nurtured. By Danielle Bowling.
Cranberry and almond roast pork
A
ustralian Pork’s PorkStar campaign, which has seen some of the industry’s most loved members advocating the inclusion of pork on food service menus, is this year celebrating its tenth anniversary. Marketing manager, Mitch Edwards told Hospitality that the results have been remarkable. “I’m as happy as can be. When we started 10 years ago, pork basically wasn’t on menus. Now we can go to any restaurant, any time and not think about whether pork will be there, it’s more a case of we’re surprised if it’s not there, which is totally opposite to where we started off.” And it’s not just that chefs are more willing to have pork on their menus, they’re more interested in where it’s come from, and what they can do with it. “We are finding that chefs are often after something more specific, whether it be information about the breed or the genetics, right through to the way the animal has been raised. “Between the chef and the farmer, the mystery is now gone and that actually helps in passing on the education to the diners. So many chefs and restaurateurs now have a story about where the product is from, how it was raised and the distance it’s travelled,” Edwards says. There’s also been an incredible acceptance of the nose to tail concept, as more and more chefs realise
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that pork is one of the most cost effective proteins to include on menus. “There’s such a move towards nose to tail. When Fergus Henderson worked with us on one of our first PorkStar events I remember him saying ‘It’s only polite to use the whole beast’ … With pork you use the head and the tail and we eat the trotters, there’s really no part of the pig that we don’t use. “The neck can be slow cooked for an unctuous yummy dish or it can be quickly fried as a steak, whereas with a beef product you have to be more specific with the cuts you use and then relate it to a cooking method. Pork seems to be more adaptable to all sorts of cooking methods,” he says. “You can cook a whole suckling pig, chop it up and feed it to a group of people and everybody is going to get a beautiful piece of meat.” And that’s exactly what Javier Codina, chef and owner of Moda in Brisbane, is doing. The most popular pork dish on the Spanish-born chef’s menu is the suckling pig, hands down. “It’s number one, and the beauty of suckling pig is that it’s so well known to the Asian market and Asian families. They really like suckling pig, with a nice bit of crackling.” Codina marinates the pigs, which he gets in whole from a small family operated supplier in Toowoomba, for 24 hours in sea salt, sage and
lemon zest. He then steams them for four and a half hours in a sous vide before removing the bones, letting it cool and then crisping the skin in a hot pan. “The advantage of using pork is that there’s no wastage at all. You use everything, from head to tail. I try to get the whole beast at all times because then you have the opportunity to share all the cuts with the chefs, and perhaps you do one [dish] and they’ll do another.”
Myth busting Codina says the pork industry has worked hard to overcome some of the misconceptions both chefs and diners have previously had about pork. “Pork is such a diverse meat but it has a reputation of being a fatty meat and not compatible with certain diets, but I think the pork industry has gotten rid of that image. You’ll find that there are different cuts of the pork that are very, very lean. “And you can eat pork medium rare. That reputation of having to have the pork overcooked – I think that’s in the past. Now you can see chefs cooking the meat to the right degree, or at low temperatures. It’s the way it should be,” he says. Over the years Australian Pork has been working with suppliers to educate both chefs and diners about how to best cook and eat pork. Paul da Salva, marketing manager at Murray Valley Pork,
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porkgrowth
Chef Damian Heads’ wood-fire grilled pork cutlet
Murray Valley Pork pig farmer
Carla Jones’ head to toe pig terrine, crispy ear and nashi pear salad
says two of the biggest misconceptions which have previously halted the growth of the meat are that it is often dry and can also be inconsistent in taste and texture. “We do struggle with that, and that’s why we find that – like with most things – the proof is in the eating. So we always provide samples and say ‘cook it, eat it, and you’ll find that the perceptions you have are outdated.’ “We’re able to, through a lot of work in our farming and processing side, deliver a product that we can always guarantee has a consistent flavour and isn’t dry. We have very careful management of the herd to guarantee the consistency of the flavour, and on the processing side we do careful moisture infusion and very careful processing and carcass handling to make sure the eating quality of the meat is preserved,” da Silva says. Being able to guarantee to chefs that the product will be consistent time and time again has been crucial to growing its representation on menus, he says. The meat not only needs to look and feel the same upon the delivery, it needs to have a consistent taste and texture once cooked and not require a lot of guess work or improvisation on the chef’s behalf. “So you need to be able to provide a product that is going to hold really well, so that it’s not going to dry out, and that can be cooked by the
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Moda’s paella
apprentice and still wont dry out. Even if you have people who are less skilled in the kitchen, and there’s just one proper chef – this tends to be more in the café, pub, club kind of scene – you can still serve a valuable product. You don’t need an outstanding level of cooking skills to deliver that high grade eating experience.” But its consistency and reliability doesn’t mean its applications are limited, da Silva insists. “Chefs can create so many different types of dishes with [pork], and use so many different types of cooking styles. It’s also versatile in terms of the resources that you need or don’t need to devote to it. So it’s ideal for things like sous vide cooking, and particularly belly. You can be serving belly but it only takes you 15 minutes from the start of service to start putting it on a plate. So from a business point of view it has a lot of appeal, and particularly at the moment, it’s very cost effective against other proteins.” Before kicking off the PorkStar campaign, Mitch Edwards and his colleagues conducted market research to find out what was stopping Australians from eating pork at home. “At that stage consumers were interested in pork but they were nervous about cooking with the product, and there’s still a lot of nervousness now. A product that people might have a willing-
ness to try but have a nervousness about cooking, makes an ideal restaurant product, because they trust that the chef will know what to do with it,” Edwards says.
Chefs driving growth The pork industry may be doing a lot to promote the meat to both chefs and consumers, but according to Edwards, it’s the chefs that are doing all the hard work and driving its growth. Once they have the protein in their hands, they’re the ones that create memorable dishes and flavours worth coming back for, he says. Not only has pork’s presence on menus increased over the past 10 years, but the popularity of the nose to tail concept and secondary cuts has transformed industry for boths chefs and producers. “When we first started the PorkStar program there seemed to be much less use of secondary cuts. Pork cutlets were quite popular at that stage, and then of course the pork belly evolution came through, and I remember people talking about pork belly and saying ‘I wonder how long this trend will last’ … and here we are 10 years later and it’s gone from being a trend to being almost like a steak. You order steak, you order pork belly. “I think in another 10 years’ time, having pork at a restaurant will be second nature.”
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tabletopdesign
Delivering the ‘DINING EXPERIENCE’ Today’s discerning diners want high quality food in a casual, relaxed environment. You’ll be well on your way to achieving this if you put thought into your tabletop design. Paul Papadopoulos shares five tips on how you can get started.
T
he old adage – we all know it – is that we eat with our eyes. It’s a truth more evident now with the increased focus of food presentation, social media and the ‘dining experience’. Gone are the days of the traditional Russian or French-style settings, with their at times confusing array of glassware, crockery and silverware (just what is that extra spoon really for?). Modern interpretations of the humble tabletop have gone from minimalist to brutalist and everything in between, and in 2015, simplicity is king. Table settings are more relaxed, simple, streamlined, organic and tactile.
1. Organic, relaxed, tactile Collecting matching china and dinnerware sets became popular in the Victorian age, when Europeans imported porcelain from China for the wealthy. The high demand led to
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many European potteries manufacturing their own crockery sets, and institutions like Royal Doulton and Waterford Wedgwood were born. But with casual dining more popular than ever, restaurants are going back to basics. Alpha restaurant in Sydney boasts a clean, organic minimalism with its table settings. The food then becomes the centrepiece, placed in the middle of the table amongst the diners and showcased on beautiful organic ceramics, stoneware and timber boards. Restaurant-goers are looking for an entire dining experience when they eat out, taking in not just the food, but also the décor, music and what’s right in front of them on the table. Zeus in Drummoyne offers another style of dining, with custom cutlery buckets turned table numbers collected from the cashier upon ordering, and taken to the table by the customer. The food is delivered to
the table in eyecatching custom Zeus packaging, plated on timber boards, enamelware and ceramic dishes. Out are the perfectly matching crockery and linens; in is a more casual approach with an organic and tactile focus. Restaurants are developing their tabletop styles by starting with a base theme such as a colour or texture and using this to inform the selection of plateware, glasses and cutlery etc. Alpha combines many forms of serving ware, often used specifically for certain menu items. Regular diners, if watching the wait staff, can often anticipate the dish based on the serving ware being used; it’s become as much as part of the food identity as the food itself.
2. Bespoke styling Bespoke handcrafted ceramics are on trend, with a firm step away from using traditional white dishes. Local
artisans are being commissioned by operators and chefs to create collections of pieces that complement the style and direction of the restaurant. Customised timbers are also on the rise, with many venues stamping/engraving their logo onto timber serving boards and the like – Meat District and Zeus are prime examples.
3. Seating height We’re increasingly seeing diners eating at the bar, or at an open kitchen, where the operations and heart of the establishment are out for all to see. At Madame Wu in Brisbane, diners inside and around the bar area have been raised to what had been a more traditional ‘bar height’. This change in seating allows for the diners to better view the kitchen and behind the bar, so they feel like they’re amongst the activity. In addition, their view of the Brisbane River is maximised. Tables themselves are also becom-
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tabletopdesign
ing key design features for restaurants. Communal tables in natural timbers are adding to the casual dining experience, taking up a large percentage of seating. Madame Wu and Meat District both comprise communal tables, to accentuate their relaxed environment and promote the concept of meal sharing. This provides the business with flexibility, as it allows it to cater for large or small groups of diners.
4. Be bold Custom menu design has become a focus for restaurateurs, with logos and graphics being implemented instead of stock standard formats. Customising the menu allows the personality and brand of the restaurant to shine through, giving restaurant-goers an overall brand experience from start to finish.
5. Nude tables In recent years, diners have noticed the vanishing of the humble tablecloth and a resurgence in exposed timber tops, which are rapidly becoming the norm. Restaurants are using quality woods to help ensure the food is the
focus of the dining experience (as it should be), and to again promote a relaxed, casual vibe. Meat District Sydney utilises beautifully crafted timber tabletops, and takes customisation a step further with built-in table lights. Lighting is literally being brought to the table – much to the delight of diners who are sick of pulling their iPhones out just to see what’s on offer. Diners might be hungry for a more relaxed eating experience, but that doesn’t mean operators can be relaxed about their interior design, especially their tabletops. Ironically, it takes thought and effort to convey a relaxed, casual atmosphere, but once you’ve defined your concept and found the best, most appropriate design elements, you’ll be well on your way to delivering that highly sought after ‘dining experience’. You’ll go from delivering a meal, to delivering a memory. Interior designer Paul Papadopoulos heads the team at Sydney-based design firm, DS17, specialising in hospitality and retail projects.
Madame Wu
Drummoyne’s Zeus
Alpha restaurant
Advertorial
To eat or tweet? It is no secret that customers eat with their eyes, which makes dish presentation an important part of any dining experience. This has never been more true, with the era of social media transforming the way people approach dining out. Instead of looking for restaurant reviews from renowned food critics, customers are more inclined to jump online and review Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and food blogs to choose the right restaurant. But this social media influence doesn’t end there - once it’s time to enjoy the meal, we all know, if something looks really beautiful, people will want to take a photo of it - and most importantly post it online. Instantly, the chosen restaurant gets a review broadcasted on multiple social networks. So in today’s society that is highly influencedby social media, it isn’t surprising that plating has reached new heights of innovation and beauty. So what does this mean for the hospitality industry and its business owners? In the competition for today’s social media savvy customers and food bloggers, restaurant owners have to step up to the plate and start using their plates as canvases - to compose dining experiences worth sharing. Like an artist needs to choose a colour palette that inspires, hospitality businesses have to assure they are equipped with all their creative tableware tools that not only sell the food but also create an Instafood experience. Looking at Australia’s market leaders in hospitality products, there is one company that very quickly seems to have recognised the social trends in the dining industry and has responded by offering high quality dinnerware that not only meets the challenge of quality and functionality but also makes it irresistible for users not to grab their phone and post a picture of their meal. Reward Distribution understands that the full dining experience is what keeps a customer coming back, but also knows that a lot of restaurants operate on a tight budget.
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Symbol - Gourmet Collection From the simple design of the Essentials tableware and coloured plates of the Café collection, to the dramatic ovals and rims of the Italian made Symbol ranges, Reward has a range to suit the look and feel of any restaurant. By embracing social media, restaurants can create an online presence that will not only help them please current customers but also create a platform to reach new customers.
hospitality | March 2015
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LHPHospPork15361126[QUAINR].pdf
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12:24
PM
For a decade, PorkStar has joined forces with brilliant chefs to inspire a nation to “Get Some Pork on Your Fork”. Together we have transformed the humble pig from a menu afterthought into a menu “must have”. So to all the pork passionate chefs across the nation, we salute and applaud you – Happy 10th Anniversary PorkStars!!! • Jake Nicolson • Dan Hong • Manu Feildel • Brent Savage • Peter Manifis • Philip Johnson • Giovanni Pilu • Shaun Presland • Colin Fassnidge • Stewart Wesson • Daniel Wilson • Richard Ousby • Damian Heads • Neil Thompson • Analiese Gregory • Don Hancey • Raymond Capaldi • Richard Ptacnik FRONT ROW • Hadley Troy • Warren Turnbull • Camillo Crugnale • Pablo Tordesillas • Martin Boetz • David Pugh • Matthew Kemp • Brett Cameron • Bethany Finn • Christine Manfield • Belinda Franks • Alex Herbert • Carla Jones BACK ROW
RHPHospPork15361130[QUAINT].pdf
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2
5/02/2015,
• Chui Lee Luk • Mark Jensen • Fergus Henderson • Saskia Beer • Ian Curley • Stephen Clarke • Brad Jolly • Nino Zoccali • Luke Nguyen
BACK ROW
FRONT ROW • Dominque Rizzo • Lauren Murdoch • Duncan Welgemoed • Scott O’Sullivan • Hamish Ingham • Alessandro Pavoni • Ben Williamson • Janni Kyritsis • Matthew Dempsey • Massimo Mele • Leigh McDivitt
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staffingcosts
10
WAYS TO CUT YOUR WAGE COSTS
It might mean making some tough decisions and learning to love number crunching, but keeping your wage costs under control is a necessary evil in this industry. By Ken Burgin.
I
t’s not complicated. Cutting wage costs may require some tough decisions, but being in overdraft is far worse! Below are some tips designed to help you keep your costs down and profits up in an industry with notoriously low margins. 1. Menu pricing makes a difference. Let’s say your sales are $1,000 from 200 items at $5 each. Wages of $350 are 35 percent, and more than you want. Add 50c to each item and if you sell the same number, your sales are now $1,100 and the $350 wage cost is 31.8 percent. Sounds simple – only you know how flexible you can be with pricing. But I’ve rarely seen a menu that can’t have some work on price endings.
2. Volume makes a difference. You could handle 100 customers or 120 with the same staff, even 130. And chances are you’d still have most of them on duty if only 80 turned up – it makes a big difference in the final wage cost percentage. Getting it right needs attentive management who are ready to cut loose unnecessary staff and help the team knuckle down when there’s a rush. Business success also requires smart marketing which brings in new and existing customers all through the week. 3. Better forecasting cuts costs. In Melbourne when the first ‘White Nights’ all-night event was held, there were moans from operators who ‘hadn’t been told’ and missed a bonanza. You have to watch for these opportunities – special events,
Key figures for measuring staff costs •
• •
• •
•
•
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Total cost of labour – wages plus all on-costs. Some are not paid at the same time as wages, but are still a part of the weekly cost, for example workers’ compensation, superannuation and payroll tax. tax Labour cost per hour – how much iss itt costcost ing for each hour you are open? Fixed and variable wage costs – the e staff you must have, and those you can call in as needed. For a large business, a flex xible and permanent workforce gives the gre eatest s productivity, but it needs work to crea ate the structure. The old days of turnin ng on and off the supply of workers, like a tap, are almost over. Number of hours worked – total hours u , measured by each department. Number of stafff – full-time, part-tim me and casual. Generally, we want fewer people working more h hours. Value of accrue ed annual leave and superannuation a n – the e cost that’s ‘waiting in tthe th he h e wings’. Va Val V a ue u of accrue ed staff tax payments – import import imp rtant for y your cash-flow plann ning.
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changes in the weather, TV specials, start at the same time – are the pre-meal sporting events etc. Adjusting quickly periods being used efficiently? Finger for these days (or quiet times) will scanning and facial recognition are make a solid difference to wage both good options. 8. Set up real-time cost trackcost percentages. 4. Employ productive people. ing with online rostering. If you How fast and efficient is evewant managers to watch and adryone in your team? Any dead just costs day by day, you must wood? It’s worth paying more give them the tools to do it. That for someone who does 50 percent means accurate rostering and staff more output than a slow-coach. schedule systems like FindMyShift Fast people want to work in an efor Deputy – there are quite a few ficient team – they won’t stick around choices. Even spreadsheets won’t usuKen Burgin if you expect them to carry the slow or ally give you the knowledge in advance the lazy. of next week’s wage cost. If you don’t give 5. Automate processes. Is there a place for a fullymanagers accurate, timely information, they don’t automatic espresso machine, dough roller, cocktail dis- know if they’re doing a good job or not. penser or coffee ordering screen? Most restaurants and 9. Set an absolute wage budget. Once you have real-time bars are conservative behind the scenes, resisting inno- costing set up, the next step is to set an absolute dollar vation and technology. When you’re looking at labour- budget for each department – for the chef, that may mean saving equipment, think about how many labour hours it no more than $3,000 for all his/her wages (including will eliminate each week – the payback time is often quite super). If they want more staff on Thursday, it will mean short. Here’s how to work out the Return on Investment of fewer hours on Monday and Tuesday – that’s how it works. 10. Tie incentives to wage cost targets. With real-time cost new equipment – simple! 6. Outsource production. It’s very common – hollandaise tracking set up and quality checks in place to ensure that out of a tin, lamb shanks from a bag, fancy cakes in a cost-cutting doesn’t mean skimpy service or bad food, you box and juice from a bottle. The knifeless kitchen is more can set up a bonus system that gives managers a cut of common, and we lose a little flavour and variety each time whatever is being saved. Bonuses bring out ingenuity in someone else makes it for us. But in high-wage locations staff – if they bring labour costs $600 below budget, a 25 it’s inevitable – just don’t lose your point of difference. percent bonus would give them $150 and you’re still $450 7. Tighten up start and finish times. Time theft can be a ahead. But as with all bonus systems, make sure there are big issue – early or late sign-offs are common when con- regular spot checks for accuracy and honesty, and ensure trols are weak. It’s may be more productive to have staff it doesn’t reduce quality.
Measuring performance Numbers have more impact when they’re compared with results from last week, last month or the same time last year. •
• •
• • • •
Staff output per hour – what do you achieve? For example, two sandwich staff should be able to handle 100 customers over two hours. Bar staff should be able to do $1,000 of sales per hour in the peak period, or five waiters look after 100 customers in a restaurant shift (hypothetical examples). Speed of staff in completing tasks – how long should it take a barista to make four lattes and two espressos? How long does it take a function waiter to set up a banquet of 100 people? Set measurable standards. Labour costs as a percentage of total sales, and labour cost per customer or guest – two ways of looking at the same figures. Generally, the second looks more frightening – labour at 32 percent or costing $9.20 for each customer. Labour cost as percentage of each department’s sales – kitchen, bar, restaurant, functions etc. It’s essential to give each department feedback on their performance and roster effectiveness. Labour cost compared to budget or forecasts for each department – the variation shown as a gross figure and as a percentage. What is the ROI for labour-saving equipment? – The calculation is not complicated. What’s the payback time on an automatic espresso machine or bigger mixer? Number and source of complaints – if work is rushed and errors increase, output falls and costs rise.
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
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industryobserver
Whatever happened to
FAIR WORK?
Operating a small business is tough, but there’s no excuse for undercutting your staff. Not only does it hurt the workers being shortchanged – it creates a bad name for us all. Industry Observer reports.
O
ver the past couple of months, the media has been flat out exposing business owners over unscrupulous practices in how they treat their staff. The Fair Work Ombudsman seems to be one of the busiest people in town. From my point of view, a disproportionate number of these claims are coming from within the hospitality industry. Sure, we have to work horrendous hours, doing jobs that many deem to be beneath them, often serving folk who appear less than thrilled with the experience, but seriously, as an industry we need to have a good hard look at the way we treat our workforce. It seems that the victims in these cases are often members of the foreign student population, (many of them may be enrolled in our most prestigious
universities) but what are they taught about pay and conditions in the hospitality industry? The Salvation Army recently spoke about significant number of these students filing in to take up the offer of free meals put on for the homeless, as they are not earning enough to keep up with the expenses of living far from their support networks. It really doesn’t feel right to give them another kick in the wallet when you are their trusted employer – one of their only links to the ‘Australian’ community. We rightly decry the treatment of workers on foreign shores, but what are we doing closer to home? Most disappointingly, these breaches of the Fair Work Act are often carried out by people who should know better; seasoned business owners who are trying to profiteer on the cheap, or even more
Last financial year: The Fair Work Info line received more th an inquiries relating to the ho industry spitality . Of thes e, almos t came fro m emplo yers or p eople inquiring on beha lf of an emplo yer.
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perversely, from people who have come from a similar background as the impoverished student. For me, it kind of makes me feel awkward about being pleased to get such a cheap meal if I think that the person behind the counter, the waiter, or the kitchen-hand is getting the shaft from the proprietor and unaware that things ought to be better. So, how do we change this? We all know that making a dollar in hospitality is a mix of hard work, timing, snake oil, luck and God’s benevolence, yet somehow we need to maintain a system that is fair for all. Complicating this is the pesky WorkCover insurance (or its appropriate state versions) that you need to pay along with various taxes that are sent to rip your hard earned dollars away. Even my daughter’s after-school job was a low paid, cash in hand effort until I had a ‘firm discussion’ one night about the inherent lack of protection and exploitation. It that seemed to resonate as she quit shortly thereafter. I suppose that illustrated to me how easy it is to get away with dodging the system, but what is the long-term expense of doing so? We can’t really hold our heads up as a high-minded throng with such a subversive culture, and we are pretty quick to point the finger at others for very similar behaviour. Part of me thought that it just might be an extension of the old ‘anti-establishment’ Aussie type that wants to stick it up the government, however, the risk to these workers is far greater than any reflective joy in being a bit sneaky. We are right to continue our support of ethical producers by buying Fairtrade coffee, and loving our organic produce, but take a moment to consider these underpaid (and often then, unprotected) workers much closer to home that certainly need our help. I could head into a dissertation on Plato’s construction of a society, or re-preach the Sermon on the Mount in order to pull at the societal or religious heartstrings, but it is entirely reasonable that we learn about this dark underbelly of our industry, and bring it into the light. It’s not good enough to justify abusing the rights of your workers in the misguided belief that ‘at least they have a job’; they deserve better. They deserve your respect and the very kind of fair deal that this society sets out to achieve. Now this isn’t meant as A Current Affair style of rant, but if we each try to do good then we may actually achieve what’s right. Think about it.
Credit: Fair Work Australia
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workplaceissues
The cost of NON-COMPLIANCE Red tape. It protects workers but often burdens operators. Regardless of your view on Australia’s industrial relations landscape, it pays to be compliant, writes Restaurant & Catering Australia.
T
he government predicts that red tape costs Australian business more than one billion dollars annually. This regulation exists in many facets, and subsequently causes administrative burden to businesses. The Australian labour market is a world leader when it comes to regulation, particularly when comparing itself to places such as the US. The debate over labour market liberalisation is a philosophical one, with parties on both sides of the trenches pushing for changes in the parameters that govern the workforce. The clearest example of labour market regulation in Australia is of course the minimum wages and the modern awards. These, in conjunction with the Fair Work Act and regulations, impose regulatory requirements for employ-
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
ment matters. On the most part, industrial relations in Australia has sought to find a balance between allowing business liberalisation and protecting the rights of employees. As legislation changes, so too does the balance between these two opposing forces. Australia is over-complicated with federal, state and local government regulations that make compliance overwhelming. In times of economic adversity, or a downturn in trade, businesses naturally seek to minimise costs. This can be achieved in a number of ways, but such measures must act in accordance with the law. The vast majority of businesses in Australia adhere to their statutory obligations – a small percentage however, do not. Compliance with legislative requirements is a necessity for businesses. The
penalties associated with non-compliance can be severe, but are as such to act as a preventative measure. A recent case put before the Federal Circuit Court has demonstrated both the penalties for non-compliance, and the extent to which they can be imposed for malice or intent. A Victorian restaurant was asked to back-pay a casual employee for a shortfall in their wages. This request made by the Fair Work Ombudsman was met with a rather bizarre response by the owner, who demanded a signed statement that the worker had been ‘kidnapped’ and ‘forced to work against her will’. Unhappy with this request, the Fair Work Ombudsman referred the matter to the Federal Circuit Court. The conduct of the owner in dealing with this matter led to sanctions being
imposed that outweighed the initial back-pay request. Judge Riethmuller imposed a penalty of $15,500 on top of the back payment of $5,000, arguing there was a need to impose a penalty to “recognise the importance of general deterrence…” The Fair Work Ombudsman sought to rectify this issue by way of a contravention letter, and had the business accepted the breach and remedied it, the matter would have been resolved. Whether or not the employee agreed to be paid the below minimum wage rate is irrelevant. Agreements such as this do not comply with the law. Running the risk of non-compliance is a gamble that simply doesn’t add up. The Workplace Relations Team at Restaurant & Catering Australia. Contact them on 1300 722 878.
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managementcomment
PRODUCT ENDORSEMENTS: what are celebrity chefs really selling?
Themselves, says Tony Berry. It’s time for them to stop counting their pennies and get back to the kitchen.
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here’s no need to mention names. We all know who they are. And so do they. Thus we can safely call upon the old excuse of using anonymity in order to protect the guilty. Not that they need any protecting. Nor would they worry if their names were bandied around as their arrogance and self-love are at such levels as to be above caring. They endlessly preen and promote, forever littering our screens, newspapers and magazines. Like their counterparts in other fields of endeavour – particularly sport – they have become a byword for excellence. They are the winners, the medallists, the champions. And thus it follows that all they utter henceforth is the gospel according to whoever, and is not to be denied. But is this really the case? I ask while pausing to add a generous helping of salt to my thoughts. The hats, stars and other accolades these kitchen supremos have been awarded cannot be disputed. It is what follows that is questionable. From being recognised as the best of the best at putting a meal on a plate, they mutate into instant authorities on any issue tossed their way. The shadowy figures who “manage” them (a euphemism for pulling a puppet’s strings) quickly manoeuvre them into a position where they never leave the spotlight beamed upon them. They become oracles; they achieve a status way beyond the achievement that first drew attention to them. Such publicity is, of course “good for business”, as the spin doctors would tell them. Which it is, provided it remains focussed on the very thing that earned them recognition.
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Tony Berry
“Come on guys, it’s time to stop. Earn some selfrespect instead of self-aggrandisement.”
However, it has gone far beyond that. The writing was already on the wall when chefs started to attract the label of “celebrity.” The decline in the meaning of a word that once denoted true eminence and fame was rapid. Now everyone’s a celebrity; nothing needs to be done or achieved – you simply have to turn up and be seen; or merely, as we have seen in several well-publicised cases, write a blog. From there the downhill slide was inevitable as “celebrities” began to believe their own publicity – or rather the publicity that their manipulators achieved in return for massive fees. Thus socalled celebrity chefs (along with “celebrities” in other fields) have become the cornerstones not only of food service, but also of the burgeoning industry of people marketing. A symbiotic relationship was born. Each depended on the other for survival. Over the years we have seen the rise and rise of celebrity chefs who spend more time in front of the camera, on chat shows and being quoted on issues way beyond their area of expertise than they do in the kitchens that first brought their fame. From there the next step was inescapable. Sponsorship. There is the simplistic view that by putting a “famous” face alongside a product it is automatically exalted into the realms of excellence. Consumers are expected to take a big leap of faith on the basis that because a person is among the best is their chosen field, all that they touch has attained the same high levels. Is there any logic in this? No. Is there money to be made in this? Yes – buckets of it.
Hence greed becomes the motivation for sponsorships, tie-ins and partnerships that have little credibility and do nothing to enhance the standing of the “celebrity.” They have become a plague. To walk down almost any supermarket aisle is akin to strolling through a rogues’ gallery of celebrity chefs and TV cooks, their faces grinning out from tins, packets, sachets and readymeals galore. And closer inspection will generally reveal the products they adorn bear a price tag above that of similar non-endorsed items. Come on guys, it’s time to stop. Earn some self-respect instead of selfaggrandisement. End this needless chasing of further riches that inflates prices in order to pay your fees – and those of your manipulators. Among the tsunami of television food-based “reality” shows is the reasonably tolerable ‘How to Eat Well for Less’ in which families are shown how to prune household bills by rethinking their food shopping, storage and preparation. One of the secrets behind the quite massive weekly savings achieved is to buy the own brand or no name version of numerous popular items. This is done after family members have done a blind taste test and are usually found to prefer the cheapies over the big name offerings. In other words, the (admittedly gullible) public is being conned by chefs who should know better than promoting foodstuffs that are nowhere near as superior as we are being led to believe. Which leaves one wondering whether endorsements are the only place where celebrity chefs are leading us by the nose ... After all, a ballot to pay $525 each?
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rules&regulations
DOGGY BAGS: what are the rules?
Some diners see them as a social faux pas, others as their right as paying customers. To say the least, they make restaurant owners uncomfortable. So what are the rules and regulations when it comes to doggy bags? Danielle Bowling reports.
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ssentially, there are none, says Restaurant and Catering Australia’s (R&CA) CEO, John Hart. Restaurants have a duty of care to protect their diners, but there are no regulations when it comes to if and how people can take half finished meals home. George Calombaris’ Hellenic Republic restaurant was recently in the headlines for asking a patron to sign a waiver before leaving with his lamb leftovers. While 20 year old Ross Katsambanis felt the request was “ridiculous”, Hart said the business was well within its rights. “If you look at some of the duty of care type of cases that are run through the courts, the steps that are taken to mitigate the risk need to be reasonable. The question is whether the risk is high enough to get someone to sign a disclaimer, or whether simply notifying them of the risk is sufficient mitigation,” Hart told Hospitality. “Whatever a business considers is appropriate mitigation is a matter for them; all we try to do is give them as much support as we can.” Business owners can refuse the use of doggy bags in order to safeguard them-
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selves from possible legal action if a customer becomes sick after eating food they’ve taken home, but there are other options for those not wanting to be so exacting, Hart says. “There are a whole raft of ways that businesses can defend themselves … We produce stickers that restaurant owners can put on doggy bags that basically let customers know that it’s their risk, and they shouldn’t leave food unrefrigerated and all those sorts of things. “There have been cases where people have tried [to sue restaurants] and so really what we’re guarding against is that eventuality. If a business has taken steps to mitigate that risk, then those steps would be taken into account in any sort of legal action. Whatever steps they’ve taken obviously provide a way in which a restaurant can say it has exercised that duty of care and has notified patrons of the risks.” So are regulations required? Do restaurateurs need strict policies which can safeguard them from possible litigation? “I think the last thing we need is another bit of regulation, to be honest. But it’s prudent for businesses to do whatever they can and take whatever steps they can to protect themselves,” says Hart.
Reader comments: OldSaltie: At the end of the day if you are consistently finding that guests are requesting doggy bags, then you have a portion control issue. A meal which is too big to finish at the time it was ordered does not represent “more value”. In my mind legislation is over the top and unnecessary, whilst denying a guest the opportunity to take left overs home is a policy which I find very non-customer focused...
Veale Jeffrey: Just sign a waiver - simple. Game, set, match.
Malcolm: We are the hospitality industry ... It annoys me when places have a blanket ‘no doggie bag’ policy. They claim food safety, but when I point out that the take-away place next door doesn’t get sued and they have no control over what people do with the food, they’ve got no come back...
Judith Kellett: I have only requested a doggy bag very infrequently, but I expect to get one if I ask politely! Seriously, on the rare occasions when a refusal is accompanied by a smug “food safety” lecture, my BS filter is immediately activated. I am - after all - the customer, and I do actually have more than a passing acquaintance with food safety. It just comes across as “can’t be bothered” ...
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shelfspace
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5 1. Organic workwear Made from certified organic cotton, there are 13 designs across the new Cream Workwear range, including women’s and men’s chef jackets, pants, aprons and tunics. Organic cotton helps chefs to stay cool in hot kitchens, and the inclusion of three percent spandex provides stretch in the fabric for comfortable movement. The practical design features mobile phone pockets, hanging tabs and underarm breathing eyelets. Cream Workwear aprons start at $35, while men’s chef jackets are $80. Sizes range from XS through to 3XL. www.creamworkwear.com.au
2. Designer Italian glassware Bormioli Rocco has introduced inAlto, a new glassware range for restaurants and hotels. The range includes designer stemware, tumblers, jugs and decanters. Made in Italy, the range’s stemware has undergone XLT Treatment, protecting glasses from breakages caused
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by washing and polishing. They also boast thinner, laser cut rims, an elegant, thin and flat foot for maximum stability and a lightweight design thanks to the improved distribution of molten glass. www.inalto.bormioliroccocasa.com
3. Degani launches retail line Melbourne-born café network, Degani, has launched its first retail product line. The range comprises seven 750ml syrup flavours including hazelnut, vanilla, caramel, macadamia and chai; as well as three fruit frappe products: tropical twist; mango, guava and lychee; and pomegranate and raspberry. There are also four 250ml retail syrup products: chai, caramel, vanilla and hazelnut. The range is gluten-free and free from artificial colours. Manufactured in a HACCP certified facility using spices and flavours that are sourced within Australia, the range is wholly Australian made. www.degani.com.au
4. Oil for pairing Oil manufacturer, Moro, has launched its Seleccion range, comprising three varieties: Hojiblanca, Picual and Cornicabra. Seleccion uses the finest Spanish olives and each variety is designed for particular food pairings: Hojiblanca is delicate, ideal for drizzling, sautéing and finishing dishes such as seafood and vegetables; Picual can be added to soups or stews using red meat; and Cornicabra is best combined with white meats, cooked vegetables or pasta dishes. www.worldofmoro.com.au/products
5. New generation of cabinets Electrolux’s new ecostore range of cabeinets are energy-efficient, have large storage capacities and are sturdy. The Optiflow air circulation system adapts to the user’s load for optimal temperature uniformity and improved food preservation. The touch screen functionality
includes pre-set food categories to ensure appropriate temperatures and humidity. The ecostore range consumes 65 percent less energy than standard cabinets and are equipped with R290 natural refrigerant gas which helps to extend the life of the cabinets. The range also offers 50 litres more available space when compared to other equivalent cabinets. professional.electrolux.com
6. Stylish, speedy service Top Shelf Concepts has released its chip and dip cardboard cone comprising a fold-out pocket for dipping sauces. Also on offer are new melamine boards that are hygienic, require less up-keep than wooden boards and are lightweight, ensuring staff members’ comfort and speed of service. The platters can be used for hot or cold dishes, are dishwasher safe, sturdy and require little maintenance. www.topshelfconcepts.com.au
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The Chocolatiers are gearing up for the busiest time of the year! Why not grab your slice of the Easter festivities? Tempt your customers with chocolate muffins, baked in Confoil’s delightful Easter Bunny Limited Edition print. With carton quantities of 150 units, it’s easier than ever to create Easter specific muffins, without the risk of overstocks. Our muffin wraps are manufactured in Australia from genuine silicone parchment paper, sourced from Europe. Quality that is synonymous with Confoil. Stock is limited. Available early March. Follow the link below to pre-order and receive a 10% discount. http://ad.confoil.com.au/easterpromo
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eventscalendar
hospitalitydiary MARCH 23 February - 29 March, March into Merivale This year’s March into Merivale festival will include 50 events running over a five week period. Every Thursday Merivale chefs including Dan Hong, Peter Doyle, Jordan Toft, Danielle Alvarez and Jeremy Strode will take over the ivy’s private dining room, hosting an intimate dinner party and sharing some tricks of the trade. Other highlights of the program include the European Laneway (18 March) where the ivy’s laneway will be transformed into a European getaway, offering French, Spanish, Greek and Italian influenced dishes from Bistrode CBD, Felix, Ash St. Cellar, Uccello, Lorraine’s Patisserie and Palings. On 25 March the Wok On! party will be held at the Establishment with hip hop beats, neon installations and stalls from Ms.G’s, Mr Wong, Mr Wong Dim Sum, Sunee’s and sushi e. www.marchintomerivale.com.au 12 - 15 March, Taste of Sydney Taste of Sydney will be returning to Centennial Park in 2015 where festival-goers will be able to sample over 60 dishes from 15 of Sydney’s hottest restaurants. The event will bring together some of Sydney’s best restaurants, chef collaborations, artisan producers and a host of new attractions including masterclasses, workshops and other hands-on experiences. Recently awarded NSW’s Best Exhibition in the Australian Event Awards, Taste of Sydney represents the perfect opportunity for food and wine enthusiasts from both customer and industry backgrounds to enjoy the spoils of the city’s culinary scene. Taste festivals are now enjoyed in 24 different cities around the world. www.tasteofsydney.com.au
MAY 14 - 15 May, Restaurant Industry Summit The Restaurant Industry Summit is a two day conference that will be held in the lead-up to the Noosa International Food & Wine Festival in May this year. The conference aims to address some of the biggest challenges that the Australian restaurant industry is currently facing including constant pressure on pricing, and escalating operating costs for all food and wine related businesses and suppliers. Created by concerned industry bodies and leaders
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including federal MPs, MPs restaurant owners, owners media professionals, large business chain CEOs, and industry stakeholders, the event will aim to start a collaborative dialogue to affect change and stabilise the situation. The conference will focus on areas of concern including workforce issues, consumer trends, cost of business issues, taxes and regulations. www.restaurantsummit.com.au
MAY/JUNE May 31 - 2 June, Foodservice Australia The Foodservice Australia tradeshow will be taking place at the Royal Exhibition Building in Melbourne from 31 May. Spanning over three days, Foodservice is the only tradeshow focused on the restaurant and catering sectors, and last year featured over 160 exhibitors together with a range of events designed for chefs, food managers and hospitality operators. 2015 is shaping up to be the biggest show yet with most exhibitors rebooking immediately after the 2014 show. Popular features include the Regional Producer’s Pavilion and the Chef’s Corner, as well as the Global Pizza Challenge, World Masters and Australia’s Best Pie Competition. The tradeshow also includes the annual Foodservice Gala Dinner and Awards ceremony, which celebrates excellence achieved by individuals and companies over the past 12 months. Categories include Food Distributor of the Year, Food Supplier of the Year, Innovation of the Year and Service Supplier of the Year. www.foodserviceaustralia.com.au
AUGUST 17 - 18 August, The Drinks Industry Show Exhibitions & Trade Fairs has announced a new industry trade exhibition, The Drinks Industry Show, which will take place at the Sydney Exhibition Centre @ Glebe Island. The show will connect producers and distributors of alcoholic beverages with buyers from bars, clubs, restaurants, hotels, liquor stores and catering companies. It will feature an interactive exhibition, taste testing, educational seminars, mixology demonstrations, networking functions and the 2015 Australian Bartenders Guild Classic & Flair National Cocktail Championship. www.drinksindustryshow.com.au
SEPTEMBER 20 - 23 September, Fine Food Australia In 2015, Fine Food will be returning to Sydney with a new home – Sydney Showground, Sydney Olympic Park. The show opening hours are 10am to 5pm daily and program highlights include the Australian Culinary Challenge where teams of three chefs compete in a live kitchen, judged by a panel of international and local chefs. At Bake Skills apprentice bakers from each state compete in a live bakery challenge across 26 different product categories including specialty and artisan breads. Other highlights include the Export Ready Showcase, the Les Toques Blanches Live demonstrations, the Official Great Aussie Pie Competition and the Talking Food Stage. www.finefoodaustralia.com.au
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freshnewideas If you are looking for new ideas for your cafĂŠ, restaurant, bar or takeaway then make sure you visit Foodservice Australia, running in Melbourne from 31 May to 2 June 2015. Taste all the new food trends, try out the latest equipment and attend free business seminars.
Unilever Food Solutions
Chef of the Year
Cafe School
NEW
NEW
Restaurant & Bar Theatre
Gluten Free World
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Barworld
31 May - 2 June 2015, Royal Exhibition Building, Melbourne Register free using code FHM2 at foodserviceaustralia.com.au
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