Hospitality Magazine July 2013

No.696 July 2013

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No.696 July 2013

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foodservice

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accommodation

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wow factor The

Event leaders reveal the secrets to function success

Cheese please

Don’t disappoint with your cheese service

JAPANESE WARRIOR

Q&A with SakĂŠs Shaun Presland

Print Post Approved PP349181/00109

Not so humble

Chicken flies high in the hands of top chefs

Super future

Are you ready for the superannuation changes ahead?

PUBLISHER Martin Sinclair martin.sinclair@cirrusmedia.com.au Ph: (02) 8484 0607 EDITOR Rosemary Ryan Ph: (02) 8484 0880 rosemary.ryan@cirrusmedia.com.au JOURNALISTS Brea Carter Ph: (02) 8484 0661 brea.carter@cirrusmedia.com.au Alexandra E Petri Ph: (02) 8484 0854 alexandra.petri@cirrusmedia.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Christine Salins Ken Burgin Tony Berry GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rizwan Nawaz Ph: (02) 8484 0622 rizwan.nawaz@cirrusmedia.com.au ADVERTISING NATIONAL Rhonnie Merry Ph: (02) 8484 0642 Fax: (02) 8484 0915 rhonnie.merry@cirrusmedia.com.au PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Troy Stevens Ph: (02) 8484 0748 troy.stevens@cirrusmedia.com.au PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Laura Panameno Ph: (02) 8484 0772 laura.panameno@cirrusmedia. com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS Ph: 1300 360 126 ONE YEAR: $132.00 incl GST TWO YEARS: $220.00 incl GST

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Editor’s Note oNLINE review sites are one issue that can really fire up an Australian restaurateur.

It’s a relatively new challenge for the operators of hospitality businesses here with the rapid growth in the number of sites now crowding the internet and the huge numbers of people who are using them to make decisions about where to eat and stay.

The topic has really got the restaurant industry agitated. At issue is the number of mischievous and also vexatious reviews that are

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hospitality | july 2013

Is the answer for operators to simply embrace the opportunity to get closer to customers by engaging with those writing the reviews, and also by recruiting their own loyal customers to add reviews about their great experiences at their venues and drown out any negative ones, real or vexatious?

Word of mouth has always been the most powerful influencer in people’s dining decisions and online reviews are just a powered up version of that. Let’s use them to the industry’s advantage.

Rosemary Ryan

contents 8 News

16 Secret ingredients

Review sites under fire.

Hospitality leaders sleep out to raise money for homeless.

Scores on doors campaign.

Meet Saké’s Shaun presland.

6 Workplace CIRRUS MEDIA Tower 2, Level 3, 475 Victoria Ave, Chatswood, NSW 2067, Australia Locked Bag 4700 Chatswood Delivery Centre, NSW 2067, Australia P: (02) 8484 0888 F: (02) 8484 0633 ABN 80 132 719 861 www.cirrusmedia.com.au © Copyright Cirrus Media, 2013

appearing on the sites alongside the authentic legitimate ones. Many, they say, come from disgruntled employees or competitors who are deliberately setting out to ruin the reputation of a business for their own gain.

Restaurant and Catering Australia has been in discussion with business competition watchdog, the Australian Competition and Consumer Commissionwhich is now investigating the concerns about the sites.

R&CA would like to see

some kind of regulation of the burgeoning sector to make operators more accountable and to ensure reviews are legitimate.

R&CA chief executive officer John Hart says one answer could be that only people who are proven to have dined at a restaurant should be allowed to post a review.

This could be done by diners being contacted after they’ve made an online booking and asked to post a review.

Is regulation needed? or is this just a new challenge that the industry needs to come to terms with and “toughen up” as one talk back radio caller said when the issue was being discussed?

prepare for superannuation changes ahead.

12 Openings

18 Beverage

Features 20 Cheese please

Achieving the perfect cheese and wine match.

Tips for presenting a stunning cheese course from sourcing to storing.

31 Management

24 An event to remember

Ken Burgin on improving business communication.

Catering and event planning experts reveal the keys to a succesful function.

Latest new venues opening their doors.

32 Dr Hospitality

14 Mystery diner

33 Shelfspace

Regional restaurant star Simone’s at Bright gets a visit.

The latest new products for your business.

Hospitality questions solved.

28 Not so humble Chicken’s not just chicken in the hands of some of our top chefs who are fans of this much maligned protein.

ON THE COVER: On the cover of this month’s issue is Kate Stewart, the director of Melbourne’s Bright Young Things, the based-events company that’s earned a big reputation for delivering functions that exude creativity. She’s pictured with the company’s creative producer Rocco Trimboli on the site of one of their events.

Stewart was one of the leading catering and event specialists we spoke to for our feature on the latest trends

in functions. Head to page 24 to read Stewart’s great tips on what it takes to create a memorable and successful event in these competitive times.

She admits that her company tends to attract clients who are looking to host a function that’s a little “left of centre”. “A lot of clients come to us because we have a bit of a reputation for being creative and for really working with them on ideas,” she says in the story.

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newsonline

On the move: Brahimi departs Opera House site Image: Thinkstock

Calls for phony review action Departure: Guillaume Brahimi set to close Sydney fine diner.

Image: Crown

GUILLAUME BRAHIMI has announced he will not be submitting a tender for the Bennelong site at Sydney’s Opera House as part of the venue’s tender process announced earlier this year.

Brahimi said The Opera House Trust wanted a more casual venue for the site.

“Our goal was always to run one of the best restaurants in the country, befitting such an iconic venue,” he said. “The Opera House Trust is now seeking a bistro-style restaurant, cafe and bar. This clearly involves a very different vision.”

Brahimi said it’s been an “absolute privilege” to serve more than half a million guests since the restaurant opened its doors in 2001.

“I am incredibly proud of what we have achieved at Guillaume at Bennelong over 12 very successful years, and I thank Sydneysiders for their ongoing support and love of our restaurant,” he said.

Brahimi said the restaurant would operate as normal over the next six months and that he would be announcing future plans for the restaurant “in due course”. He has plenty on his plate, however, having recently been appointed by Melbourne’s Crown as culinary director, along with Neil Perry.

Coincidentally, Perry has revealed a move of his own - he’s closing Rockpool restaurant in the George Street site it’s occupied for 24 years and will reopen in a new Sydney CBD location.

THE AUSTRALIAN restaurant industry has gone to the business and competition watchdog over the industry’s continuing concerns about online review sites.

The peak industry body Restaurant and Catering Australia has been in discussions with the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) about the practices of the ever-increasing number of review sites such as Eatability, TripAdvisor, Urbanspoon and Yelp.

R&CA chief executive officer John Hart said the industry’s concerns are around the numbers of fake reviews on the sites and the implications that can have for foodservice businesses.

Hart said the ACCC has begun investigations around issues such as false positive and false negative reviews on the sites and what action could be taken to prevent them. He said the systems the sites say they have in place to prevent false and vexatious reviews are not working. “If you look at the reviews on their site you can certainly see that there are still vexatious ones getting through,” Hart said.

“We have had discussions with [review sites] about their algorithms and all the rest but it clearly doesn’t work. It’s very frustrating for a business particularly if they know a review is vexatious and the ones we hear about most often are the ones from a disgruntled ex-staff member and those sorts of things.”

Hart said online review sites were a major issue in the minds ot R&CA’s members. “I would say we haven’t had an issue that has agitated as many members, certainly in the last couple of years, as this one,” he said. “It can really affect businesses.”

See more at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

No five star accommodation for execs at sleep out to raise money for homeless LEADING HOSPITALITY and tourism executives were amongst the many people who slept rough for a night by taking part in the Vinnies CEO Sleepout. The event took place in capital cities across Australia raising more than $5.3m to support Vinnies homeless services across the country. Some of the company heads from the hospitality sector included the Shangri-La Hotel’s Franz Donhauser, the Australian Hotels Association’s Paul Nicolaou, Merlo Coffee’s Dean Merlo, Crown Perth’s Barry Felstead, Australian Hotel and Brewery’s Sergio Colosimo, the Schwartz Family’s Jerry Shwartz, and Club NSW’s Doug Flockhart.

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Bedding down: Australian Hotel and Brewery CEO Sergio Colosimo.

Image: Vinnies

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newsonline

Burgers sizzle as battle heats up Warren Turnbull (centre) with Chur Burgers’ Giann Ordonio (left) and Grant Astle.

Image: Britomart Hospitality

The Scores on Doors certificate.

Image: Sydney City Council

THE HOT burger trend has been restoked with chef Warren Turnbull entering the fray, and rumours that chef Justin North will also soon once again be in the market.

Turnbull has reopened at the Sydney site of his Albion Street Kitchen three months after the Surry Hills site was destroyed by fire. But in place of Albion Street Kitchen is a new burger joint, Chur Burger.

Albion Street Kitchen, which had been Turnbull’s replacement for his fine diner Assiette on the site, was open only briefly before the fire tore through it in March.

Turnbull said the decision to focus on the burger bar came from the success that he had had briefly with the launch of burgers as a sideline to Albion St Kitchen.

But it wasn’t long before the burger business took off and demand began dwarfing the other part of the operation. “We were having to turn people away and then we were having trouble having time to prep

for Albion Street because the burger business was so good,” he said. “The locals loved it.”

It received another push when Turnbull’s burgers were named best burger in Sydney by the critics at the Sydney Morning Herald after trading for only six weeks.

The response to Chur Burger has been huge with Turnbull saying customer numbers had far exceeded his expectations in his business plan. “I said that say for a Monday lunch we’d be doing 80 to 100 but we did 180 this Monday,” he said.

“And dinner has been a real surprise. I predicted we’d do about 50 for dinner but we are doing numbers like 150 to 200.”

Turnbull said he planned to be flipping burgers in the kitchen at Chur for around three months before handing over to his sous chef and former Assiette chef Giann Ordonio and restaurant manager Grant Astle so he could return to his ventures in New Zealand.

Reigning Golden Chef champ has eye on prize ONE HALF of last year’s Nestle Golden Chefs Hat Award winning team is again on his way to the national finals after winning a regional cook off.

Twenty-one-year-old Braden Honnery, sous chef at Townsville’s The Pier restaurant, and new partner Suneerat Yuda, 19, a second year apprentice at Pullman Cairns International, out cooked a line up of some of the region’s best young chefs to win the competition’s Northern Queensland regional final.

The duo will now head to Sydney in September to take part in the gruelling national finals of the competition that Honnery won last year with teammate chef Adrian Winoto. Winoto has been unable to compete this year because of the age restriction.

Honnery has made no secret of his determination to retain the title when he and Yuda compete in Sydney at the finals. “We’re absolutely stoked to have won,” he said.

“You come away learning so much from the experience anyway – learning new skills and techniques – but I’m so proud of us winning and being able to represent North Queensland. I want to bring that trophy home to Townsville again.”

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Golden chefs: Braden Honnery and Suneerat Yuda

Winners of this year’s event will head to London for work experience with Michelin starred chef Alain Roux.

Push to boost Scores on Doors involvement THE NSW FOOD Authority has announced the formation of a new industry working group as part of its strategy to increase participation in its Scores on Doors food hygiene rating program. And it’s hinted that a failure for the industry to embrace the concept could see a move towards making the scheme mandatory.

Chaired by the Authority, the group includes industry bodies Restaurant and Catering Australia, Clubs NSW, the Australian Hotels Association, and AFGC Quick Service Restaurant Forum.

In a statement to announce the move the Authority said it was looking at ways to improve and extend participation in the voluntary program. A year long trial of the program - which involves foodservice businesses displaying the results of a standardised food safety inspection as star ratings in their windows - was completed last year across 26 councils around NSW. It was the second trial of a Scores on Doors program in the state and was run as a voluntary program with councils and businesses choosing whether they wanted to participate or not.

While the trial was hailed a success, the NSW Food Authority has said public awareness of the scheme remained low inhibiting its effectiveness. In its review summary of the trial released this month, it said it was identified that “public awareness of the scheme is limited, business participation was low, business understanding of the scheme and its purpose is mixed, and promotion has been variable”. “These limitations on uptake are in part due to it voluntary nature and reluctance by businesses to display ‘low’ ratings,” the report said.

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hospitality | july 2013

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Image: Thinkstock

workplaceissues

Prepare for super changes There are changes ahead for the superannuation system in Australia and it’s important for business operators to start factoring them into their budgets, says Restaurant and Catering Australia’s workplace relations team.

T

here’s been recent speculation about the future of compulsory superannuation in Australia.

As it stands, the Australian Government has legislated that over the next seven years employer contributions will incrementally increase from nine per cent to 12 per cent.

Arguments exist both in favour and against superannuation; however Australia stands in the shadow of a looming dilemma. These challenges are the same ones that prompted the Keating Government to legislate on compulsory Superannuation in 1992. However, even the Keating Government recognised that the impost of superannuation should be shared with compulsory superannuation payments made by both employers and employees.

The 2010 Intergenerational Report signposted significant challenges to the nation; challenges that will prompt serious questions about our future prosperity. It was projected in the Intergenerational report that in the 2049/50 financial year, government spending on the ageing population would be at 27.1 per cent of GDP, “In today’s terms, that’s the equivalent of adding around $60bn to spending,” the report said.

In answer to the ageing problem many measures are being taken at a federal

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level to increase workforce participation, and encourage savings as a way of alleviating exponentially increasing pension payments. In theory the ‘Superannuation Guarantee’ has mitigated some of the unaffordable strain by the ageing population, however in practice questions need to be raised about the underlying costs of compulsory employer contributions.

In order for businesses to remain in operation, they must remain profitable.

A number of factors can affect this outcome, including compulsory superannuation guarantee increases.

When taking into account the rising cost of conducting business, things like ever-increasing labour costs, utilities bills and increases to superannuation guarantees can exacerbate the effects of low consumer confidence, and a weakening economy. Weighing up these challenges is difficult. There’s little opposition to compulsory contributions, however many small business groups remain reluctant to support further increases to this system, through fear of negative outcomes.

On July 1 this year, the Superannuation Guarantee increased from nine per cent to 9.25 per cent for the coming financial year, followed by an increase to 9.5 per cent the following year. These increases will continue until the 2019/20

‘Recent speculation has driven fears that the cost of doing business will increase to untenable levels. Such an outcome can be avoided through preparedness.’

financial year at which point the guarantee will hit 12 per cent. It’s important for business to forecast these increases into upcoming budgets.

The key message for business is to ensure they’re prepared. Superannuation guarantees are a reality of doing business, and the increase to them is inevitable. Recent speculation has driven fears that the cost of doing business will increase to untenable levels. Such an outcome can be avoided through preparedness. Over the next seven years the minimum superannuation guarantee contributions will be increased, unless as outlined in the Coalition’s Budget Reply, such increases are frozen for two years as a productivity stimulator.

Either way, the future will be laden with measures to counteract the looming ageing problem in Australia. The Intergenerational Report provides an insight into the future, and it can be expected that greater measures and incentives will develop to encourage greater workforce participation, and greater individual savings measures. It’s imperative business embrace this reality, and evolve to compliment it.

This article was written by the Workplace Relations Team at Restaurant & Catering. Call them on 1300 722 878.

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newopenings

Chur Burger

This immediately popular burger joint is the reincarnation of chef Warren Turnbull’s restaurant formerly known as Albion St Kitchen, formerly known as his long time fine diner Assiette in Sydney’s inner city suburb of Surry Hills.

Chur Burger has sprung from the ashes of Albion St Kitchen three months after the venue was destroyed by fire back in March. Turnbull says the decision to switch to burgers was prompted by the success of what was just a lunchtime sideline he’d started at Albion St Kitchen (which earned the best burger prize from the Sydney Morning Herald critics). On the menu are six different $10 burgers but also a few reminders of his fine dining background like Crispy Quail Eggs, Tarragon and Mayo.

Have you been to any of our featured restaurants?

Do you know the chef?

Check it out

Join the conversation online to have your say!

Owner and head chef: Warren Turnbull Restaurant manager: Grant Astle Where: 48 Albion St, Surry Hills, New South Wales P: 02 9211 8105 W: churburger.com.au

Bellota Wine Bar

Melbourne’s newest wine bar is the latest venture from three of Australia’s most notable wine retailers who also own the city’s Prince Wine Shop.

Built adjacent to the shop, Bellota Wine Bar features an ever-changing international wine list along with a vault of more than 3,500 wines available at the store. Patrons can select wine by the glass, by 50ml taste, or by carafe, or just a bottle from the shop’s shelves to drink in the bar.

Bellota’s menu - from chef Brigitte Hafner has a focus on wine-friendly food with a crustacean bar and range of salumi and cheeses, as well as a compact selection of classic, bistro-style mains like minute steak and pasta.

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Cut Steakhouse and Tapas

The Gambaro family, famous in Brisbane for their seafood, have moved into the steak business with this new restaurant just opposite their long standing original.

The chef is Lukas McEwan (ex-Rockpool, Sydney) and the menu is a showcase of fresh local produce. The restaurant is the only venue in Queensland to serve Stanbroke Beef, one of the country’s top breeders and producers. In the kitchen is a Montague Broiler Grill to turn out perfectly cooked meat from prime Angus, and Wagyu to organic steak cuts. Or diners can order from the tapas menu as they soak up the atmosphere of the Marian Lam-designed venue.

St Crispin

Two of Melbourne’s top chefs, Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac, have joined forces to open this new restaurant that’s named for the patron saint of cobblers - in honour of the site’s original tenants.

Pickett, who also operates Estelle in Northcote, and Grbac, the former executive chef of The Press Club, say they found they had a “synergy and complimentary comprehension of a cuisine style” from their time working at two Michelin starred The Square in London under Phil Howard. They describe their new place as delivering contemporary cuisine combined with “sophisticated, warm friendly service and accessibility and approachability for regular diners”.

Check it out

Check it out

Check it out

Owners: Philip Rich, Michael McNamara and Alex Wilcox.

Chef: Brigitte Hafner Where: 181 Bank Street, South Melbourne P: 03 9078 8381 W: princewinestore.com.au

Owners: The Gambaro family Chef: Lukas McEwan Where: 36 Caxton Street, Petrie Terrace, Brisbane P: 07 3367 2886 W: cutsteakhouse.com.au

Owners: Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac Chefs: Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac Where: 300 Smith Street, Collingwood, VIC P: 0418 215 199 W: saint-crispin.com.au

hospitality | july 2013

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mysterydiner

Simone’s of Bright It’s one of our long time regional restaurant stars and our masked diner was certainly smitten when he recently pulled up a pew to experience the impeccable service and food at this family run destination diner.

Simone’s suckling piglet done three ways.

B

right is one of those fortunate country towns that has appeal across a number of tourist types; it brings in the artists and garden folk in autumn for a spectacular colour palate, with avenues of trees putting on a light show, the river cools summer funsters and the winter sees an influx of skiers heading to one the surrounding mountains.

In 1986, to George and Patrizia Simone, this appeared as the perfect spot to place a restaurant serving Italian specialties from their home town of Perugia. In fact, the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival have now elevated Patrizia to ‘Legend’ status for her strong commitment to seasonality and the produce of her region.

Mind you, with the beautiful bounty that the King Valley and High Country provide, it’s an easy choice to go local.

We’re dining here with friends, who are clearly regulars, but the greeting is no less warm for other guests. The Simone’s son Anthony is now in charge of the kitchen and the restaurant remains a family affair with Patrizia now gracing the front of house with Anthony’s wife.

But the food here transcends ‘homely’.

The style has ebbed and flowed with the trends, from rustic to modern and now back closer to its Umbrian roots.

We kick off with Antipasto Della Casa and then marvel at the number of dishes that arrive.

First came wilted garlic shoots, on

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slices of the excellent house sourdough and drizzled with oil. These were followed by the tiniest rolls on earth; about the diameter of a ten cent piece and filled with ham, they were accompanied by flattened wafer of dried mushroom. We were instructed to eat them at the same time and it was earthy and ethereal in the same mouthful.

Platters follow with great house made salumi - crisp flat pancetta topped with an even crispier sage leaf, coarse and richly flavoured salami and a couple of pieces of coppa de testa made from the pig’s head.

Two pasta tastings were next with potato gnoccetti with gorgonzola sauce, egg yolk, truffle shavings and pancetta sharing the limelight with venison tagliatelle (that returned as a main for the bride).

The last share plate was my favourite. It held the triple delights of caramelised quail with salt cured egg yolk and crackling pangratto, roasted octopus and a divine pair of local mushrooms. They describe the shared antipasto as a progression, when it is much more like a spectacular procession. With a bottle of Dal Zotto Chardonnay on board, I’m nearly ready for the walk back up the hill home, but there is suckling piglet to come…

Yep, done three ways is the piggy and I’m both overwhelmed and in love.

For my $39 I am presented with a roll of crackling covered porcetta, a section of the most tender and moist loin imaginable and some crispy ears. Set among green

tomatoes, chicory and crab apples to provide the acidic ‘cut’ for the rich meat, it’s super. I shouldn’t have finished it, such was the generous serve, but I’m weak and gluttonous. The bride had the venison pasta; hand rolled, cocoa flavoured pasta with terrific chunks of venison and a sauce of cream and truffles. Only Bill Gates could be richer.

Three of us conclude that dessert is beyond our capability, however the man who rode up Mt Buffalo that morning (no, not me) has decided he can squeeze in the chocolate pudding and unbelievable the rest of us clamour for a spoon.

Oozing dark chocolate from the centre of a cake like shell, it’s all you could want to finish this winter feast.

I’ll return to Bright for any number of reasons, it’s an undoubtedly beautiful place with many features. Surely one of its best is the luxury of having a restaurant as lovely as Simone’s in its heart.

Authentic Italian cooking supported by a valley full of great producers is a match made in food heaven. Long may it last. Bellissimo.

‘They describe the shared antipasto as a progression, when it is much more like a spectacular procession.’

Check it out Owners: The Simone family Head chef: Anthony Simone Where: 98 Gavan St, Bright, Victoria P: 03 5755 2266 W: simonesbright.com.au

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All images: Urban Purveyor Group

secretingredients

A passion for

Japanese

His dedication to Japanese food has led Shaun Presland on a stunning career path overseeing the development of the group of Sakéérestaurants that now number three, and counting. We managed to pin the busy chef down for five minutes.

Give us the brief history of your career?

1994-95: I lived and cooked in Japan for two and a half years, settling in the hillside town of Ginzan Osen where I worked in a Ryokan, a small inn, where I learnt authentic Japanese cooking from a range of people from the ground up.

1995-2000: Worked in Unkai (ANA Hotel) Sydney for five years. Opened sushi e in Establishment Hotel in 2000.

2005 – 2008: Poached by Nobu in 2005 to open Nobu Bahamas. Opened two restaurants in Ivy (Sydney), Ivy Teppan and Sushi Choo. 2009 to present: I met Urban Purveyor Group owner John Szangolies in 2008 and we were excited about the idea of opening a contemporary Japanese restaurant that would make Japanese cuisine appear ‘less scary’. In November 2009 we opened the first Saké in the Rocks, Sydney, followed by Saké Brisbane in November 2010, and in August 2012 Saké Melbourne (Hamer Hall).

What are the primary responsibilities in your job? Creating and maintaining a high standard of contemporary Japanese dishes which are deliverable by line cooks and chefs across the three venues.

What’s a typical day for you? I start by reading the previous night’s service reports from managers across the three restaurants. Working with a great team, I’m continually inspired and constantly have new dishes and ideas so I try to workshop these before lunch service. If I’m not on a section, I expedite lunch service, then get back to the computer to update additions, check email, read over CVs, speak with suppliers and check in with interstate Saké head chefs. Early in

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the week I pick my kids up from school so from 5pm until 8pm I try to switch everything off and do homework, cook dinner and be a Dad. On Thursdays and Fridays, if I’m not interstate, it’s a double shift and a briefing with my restaurant manager, head and sous chefs for the night and straight back to the kitchen for dinner service.

What’s your most indispensable equipment? It has to be my Aritsugu sashimi knife. I’ve bought them from Mr Noseki in his Tokyo shop for the last 15 years.

What training/education did you Shaun Presland undertake for your role? I graduated from University with a Bachelor of Business (with a major in Hotel Management), in conjunction with my cook trade papers from the Australian Army Reserve. I moved to Japan in 1994 and started at the bottom in a kitchen in Japan, reading as many English written books on Japanese cuisine as I could find. But I believe there is no better education than the school of life.

What do you think will be the next big foodservice trend?

Consumers are becoming more educated and there’s a demand for wholefoods so avoiding processed foods, preservatives and chemicals is a must. People are becoming more conscious about the food they’re eating, questioning where it’s coming from, so we train and expect our FOH staff to share the same knowledge about the dishes and the ingredients in them.

What’s the biggest challenge you face in your job? Not enough hours in the day.

You’ve just been handed $2m. How would you spend it on your business?

A training school for sushi chefs in Australia. ideally this will create greater exposure for Japanese cuisine.

For the industry? Skill shortage of qualified chefs, particularly chefs who are familiar with the basics of Japanese food.

When you were first asked to take on the role at Saké Restaurant what was your goal?

My goal was to bring a fun and exciting interpretation of Japanese food to Australia and integrate our outstanding Australian produce and fish on the menu.

Two more restaurants later, what’s your goal now? I’m working with inspiring young chefs and I’d like to see them moving up the ranks and encouraged to be more creative and daring.

What’s your favourite dish on your menu? Flinders Island Wallaby. It’s one of the most delicious meats I’ve ever eaten.

‘This is an example of amazing Australian produce from an exceptional part of the world, done justice with a subtle Japanese twist.’

Vent your spleen. What annoys you about this business? The long hours can make it difficult to achieve a work/ life and that society tends to undervalue the role of hospitality workers.

What’s the best bit? Eating well and being part of so many people’s lives on a daily basis.

What would be on the menu at your last supper? Classic Japanese Kaiseki (degustation) dinner ending in sushi.

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beveragesimbibe

The perfect match

T

he late great winemaker and raconteur, Len Evans, reputedly once said his idea of hell would be to be marooned on a desert island with goat’s cheese and sauvignon blanc.

It’s easy to sympathise with him for even those who enjoy both would readily admit that their flavours clash.

So which wines do work well with cheese? Many people reach straight for a red but often it’s not the best combination.

Sparkling wine, white wine or a dessert wine might work better. It’s worth experimenting.

The Indigo Cheese Co. shop at All Saints Estate cellar door in Rutherglen offers both regional Victorian and imported cheeses, while at the Yarra Valley Cheese Shop at De Bortoli’s Victorian cellar door, customers are encouraged to taste different wine/cheese combinations.

Leanne De Bortoli says Len Evans had not tasted De Bortoli’s Yarra Valley Sauvignon when he made his comment.

It’s crisp, fresh and very restrained, and De Bortoli recommends it with goat’s cheese from France’s Loire Valley. She also says to try the estate-grown Sauvignon or their Sparkling Rococo with Australian-made Meredith marinated goat’s cheese.

De Bortoli’s iconic dessert wine, Noble One, is a match made in heaven with blue cheeses such as roquefort or stilton. It’s Black Noble, a fortified version of Noble One, works well with valdeon, a blue cheese from Northern Spain. Sweet-salty combinations are always a beautiful fit and the saltiness of blue cheese is a counterpoint for sweet wine. Other wines that go well with blue cheese include sweetened fino and aromatic fruity whites.

At Berowra Waters Inn on Sydney’s Hawkesbury River, sommelier Lisa Sanders matches muscat from France’s Domaine de La Pigeade with a creamy blue

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hospitality | july 2013

‘Sweet, salty combinations are always a beautiful fit and the saltiness of blue cheese is a counterpoint for sweet wine.’

cheese served cannoli-style in an almond crumb. The lusciousness of the wine cuts through the sharpness of the cheese.

The sweet/salt tang of grana padano, an Italian hard cheese, makes it a great match for a broad range of wine styles, from sweet whites to dry reds. Try it with De Bortoli’s Yarra Valley Shiraz Viognier or Saltram’s 1859 Barossa Shiraz, a soft fragrant wine with generous fruit and velvety tannins.

Cheddar is best suited to softer reds and aged fortified muscats but, depending on the flavour, it might also suit a fullbodied dry white or red, or a dessert wine.

This semi-hard cheese also goes well with cider.

Fresh unripened cheeses such as cottage cheese, ricotta, mascarpone, feta and fromage blanc invite lighter, refreshing wine styles that don’t overpower their delicate flavours. Consider a sparkling wine, an aromatic white or even a medium-bodied red such as Brokenwood’s Cricket Pitch Red or Jim Barry’s The Lodge Hill Shiraz.

Stretched curd cheese including fresh ones such as bocconcini and matured ones such as mozzarella and provolone, pair well with these styles of wine too.

The robust flavour and piquant finish of hard cheeses such as parmesan, pecorino or romano are best matched with more intense wines such as a fullbodied dry white or red.

Vionta Albarino, from Spain’s Rias Baixas region, is soft on the palate initially but finishes long and has great acidity, making it a good match for hard cheeses.

In reds, consider Kingston Estate Cabernet Sauvignon or the more powerful Ferngrove King Malbec from Frankland River in Western Australia. The Kingston Estate Cabernet is a blend of Mt Benson fruit, providing mint and herbaceous characters, and Mt Lofty Ranges fruit

providing fruitier, juicier flavours.

Fortified wines and sparkling wines also match these hard cheeses, the acidity of the sparkling wine contrasting with the texture of the cheese. Try Chandon Tasmanian Cuvée or Hanging Rock’s non-vintage Macedon Brut Cuvée XIV, a cool climate wine made by an extraordinarily hands-on process.

Washed rind cheese, such as reblochon, which tastes sweet but has a brown sticky rind and pungent aroma, can be a challenge to match. The most suitable wine styles are usually sweet and full-bodied such as a dessert wine or fortified wine.

A medium-bodied red could also work well. Enjoy Heidi Raclette, a Swiss-style washed rind made in Tasmania, with a soft Pinot Noir or Beaujolais style, or an unwooded white or latepicked style. Sparkling wine or beer can work well too.

‘Eye’ cheeses such as Edam and Gruyere, which have ‘holes’ produced by carbon dioxide during maturation, are quite versatile. Try them with a fullbodied dry white, medium-bodied red or a dessert wine or fortified.

The creamy, buttery character of white mould cheese such as Brie, Camembert or triple cream cheese complement sparkling wine or a buttery Chardonnay. (If the rind of the white mould cheese is very ripe, it might better suit a full-bodied dry red or fortified.)

Consider Matua Single Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay, whose 2011 vintage has won several prestigious international trophies this year. It claims to be New Zealand’s most internationally awarded wine brand, with 125 awards in total.

The creaminess and nutty character of Shingleback’s Kiss Me Kate, from some of the oldest Chardonnay vines in McLaren Vale, also pairs well with white mould cheeses, although the winemaker recommends it with Hindmarsh Valley Dairy chevre.

At the end of the day, there are no right answers but you can have a lot of fun in the quest.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Image: Thinkstock

Cheese and wine. The phrase rolls off the tongue, a match made in heaven. Christine Salins explores the sublime, and sometimes surprising, perfect pairings that will bring out the best in both these happy companions.

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producecheese

Cheese

please

Australians love cheese and are continuing to become more sophisticated and discerning in its appreciation. And clever foodservice operators are responding to meet the demand, writes Alexandra E Petri.

W

ith the rise of farmers when doing a plate of three cheeses, a markets, artisanal cheese lot of them are competing against one makers and specialty another, or one is more overpowering cheese shops springing than the other ones. When it’s a comup around the country, Australians are posed course, it is really to showcase becoming more and more sophisticated that individual cheese.” when it comes to their love affair with Lusted says when deciding what cheese. Yet the role of cheese in restau- cheese to feature in his composed cheese rants can offer some big challenges for course, he often selects a cheese that’s operators and is struggling to find a unique in the way it was produced, like solid place, experts say. the Queso Valdeon cheese currently feaAward-winning Australian cheese tured on his menu. “There’s a story belover Anthony Femia, who works as group hind it,” Lusted says of this blue cheese head cheesemonger for the European res- from the Valdeon Valley in Spain. taurant group in Melbourne, says a cheese Queso Valdeon is aged in caves at 800 should be something a restaurant wants metres altitude and wrapped in chestnut to showcase and that represents the leaves handpicked by the producers restaurant as a whole, not at a particular time during something that should the year to protect it and just serve to finish off help to give it a distinct the meal. flavour. “You’re get“The cheese ting a really differplate should beent ageing proccome a part of the ess,” Lusted says. dining experience “I think it’s just and not just be an extraordinary that Cheesemonger Anthony Femia added on feature someone does that Image: Supplied at the end of the work, and then peomeal,” says Femia. ple learn about it and “If [cheese plates] are think, Wow – I’ll try it.” the last part of the meal Cheese trolleys are you’re having, you have another tool operators high expectations for and restaurateurs can the last component. So use as a way to make if a sub-standard cheese cheese part of the explate comes out, that’s perience at their resthe last thing you retaurants, which Femia member when you leave says have really develthat restaurant. If it’s oped over the past two a bad cheese plate, it years. “We’re seeing a leaves a bad taste.” bit of a trend in cheese But there are many trolleys, where restauchefs who are respondrant have up to about ing to diners’ increas12 different cheeses ing cheese appreciation on their trolleys and with innovative and thoughful ways to are going up to the tables and offering incorporate it into the dining experi- diners a taste before choosing a cheese ence at their venues. for the evening,” Femia says. “That’s a Chef Ross Lusted, owner of Sydney’s restaurant environment where you learn The Bridge Room, has been putting to- as you enjoy your meal.” gether a composed cheese course on his Vue De Monde in Melbourne and menu since his restaurant opened in Au- Arras restaurant in Sydney are two gust 2011. One of his dishes - his comte venues that incorporate cheese trolleys custard, pomegranate molasses, San into the dining experience at their resDaniele prosciutto, pears, pomegranate, taurants. pecans, red elk cress - won the award Arras first introduced its cheese trolfor Best Composed Cheese course in last ley in May 2012. Chef and owner Adam year’s SMH Good Food Guide.

Humphrey says its use is aimed at cre“I do [the composed cheese course] ating a special experience that’s part because I think a lot of people – instead of the service at the restaurant. “And of just having a plate of cheese – want it’s an opportunity to showcase a varisomething just a little bit different,” ety of cheeses from different part of the Lusted says. “I sometimes find that world,” Humphrey says. »

‘When a substandard cheese plate comes out, that’s the last thing you remember when you leave that restaurant.’

Perfect match; Award-winning Australian Pyengana Cheddar with apple and raisin chutney.

Want the recipe? Head to hospitalitymagazine.com.au.

Image: Dairy Australia

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hospitality | july 2013

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One cheese, one thousand golden dishes

Egmont’s unique, superior taste and melt makes it versatile for use across various kitchen applications, such as culinary, baking and grilling.

Available in 6 x 2kg packs for your convenience.

producecheese

“It’s important to be able to showcase [cheeses] that aren’t out and about. We always look for points of difference in our cheeses. The beauty of the cheese trolley is that they encourage people to try something they’ve never tried before.”

Though the trolleys have been wellreceived by diners, Humphrey says they perhaps aren’t the most fashionable approach, nor the most cost-effective.

“It’s not cool to have a trolley parading around your restaurant or to care for 15 to 20 cheeses or make your own bread because it’s time consuming and costs money,” he says. “Ultimately, when costs are rising in the world, people are going to pick [a cheese trolley out] and not do something like that.

It’s one of those things you either commit to or not.”

Humphrey says six to eight cheeses is more than enough to feature on a cheese trolley. “But you can’t just sort of put the cheeses on the trolley and hope they’re going to do magic and wonders,” he says. “You have to care for the cheese and trim the cheese, and when it’s in your fridge and you’re looking after it you need to work out what’s the best one to go out next.

“If one is at the peak we’ll put it on the trolley and say to the front of house, ‘This is really good at the moment so recommend this to your guest because you won’t find it in better condition’.”

Restaurant knowledge about cheese is something that offers plenty of opportunities for improvement in the foodservice industry here, says Femia, who is currently in the process of opening two underground cellars at Spring Street Grocery in Melbourne, the first of their kind for retail shops in Melbourne, where he will grow and mature different styles of cheese.

“It’s important to understand that cheese is a living organism, and that it needs to be cared for continuously or else it can turn on you,” he says.

Femia, Lusted and Humphrey say that much of the education process about sourcing cheese and how to care for and mature cheese falls on the shoulders of the suppliers and producers, as well as a growing band of specialist cheesemongers. “We need to educate the people on the front line, and that’s the waiters and the pastry chefs who have to cut the cheese for a plate,” says Femia.

“We need to teach people the basics, and from there they can be inspired to learn more or just stick with the basics but do it really well. Too many times

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hospitality | july 2013

Composed cheese: The Bridge Room’s Comte custard dish.

Images: The Bridge Room

The Bridge Room’s Ross Lusted

‘Sometimes a producer will call me and say, “We’ve got this fantastic cheese, and it’s perfectly aged...”.’

you have a cheese that’s been wrapped in Gladwrap and forgotten about in the fridge.”

Humphrey says he works closely with his suppliers to keep the cheeses he offers fresh and seasonal, as well as to ensure that he’s offering a variety of interesting selections and choices.

“We work closely with a company out in Adelaide and speak at least once a week about what cheeses are maturing really well,” Humphrey says. “You need to take the advice of the person that’s selling you the cheese.”

Lusted voices a similar opinion when it comes to cheese knowledge. “The cheese needs to be ripe, and you need to buy it in the right condition, but that’s also hard because it really relies on the supplier to make sure they’re aged correctly,” Lusted says. “You really have to push suppliers and talk to them and be able to stand behind a product.”

Lusted says he sometimes will feature a cheese as an addition to the menu based on the advice of some producers, like the La Luna cheese from Holy Goat that he currently has on his menu.

“Sometimes, a producer will just call me and say, ‘We’ve got this fantastic cheese, and it’s perfectly aged at this point in time’,” Lusted says. “That’s when we decide to add it.”

Restaurateurs should be making sure their clients are eating cheese in the right condition, taking into account factors like the importance of eating them at room temperature. “For example, Brie, if isn’t aged correctly and comes straight out of the fridge, its like eating fruit that’s freezing cold,” Lusted says.

“You’re missing out on the flavours and sugars and the natural taste to have it in

its best condition.”

Humphrey says he often purchases his cheese under ripe. “We tend to buy cheeses – certainly our soft cheeses – under ripe for our trolley, because they are going into an ambient room to some degree, and you need [the cheese] to maintain some integrity,” he says.

The selection of cheeses should be changed every three to four weeks, which requires diligence on the restaurateur’s part, or at least every season, Femia says.

Ultimately, Femia believes restaurants wanting to incorporate cheese into the dining experience at their venues need a better education on cheese storage, handling and cutting. “Cheese care is about knowing how to best store your cheeses to get the best out of them, like using proper cheese paper to wrap them because it’s very easy to create a microclimate in the fridge with a plastic tub and a damp cloth,” Femia says.

“It’s also important to consider the cutting techniques. You should think about that next person or that next cut: Will the next person be getting the equal amount of rind or will it just be all rind?”

Selecting the right accompaniments and wine to serve with cheese is another crucial element to top cheese service. It comes down to keeping it simple and striking a balance so the cheese isn’t overpowered.

“Have fun with it,” says Femia.

“There’s no right or wrong when it comes to cheese matchings. It’s all about experimenting and what works well with you personally. Don’t be scared or go for the mundane three cheeses on a plate for the customers. Showcase something special and it will be rewarded, and we’ll be richer for it.”

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

FOOD. IT’S MY

BUSINESS. With 1,000 exhibitors from Australia and around the world, Fine Food Australia is the must-attend event for Foodservice and Hospitality industry professionals. See, touch and taste thousands of new food products and equipment from quality exhibitors, network with your peers and meet with a host of new suppliers. Check out all the action at this year’s exciting competitions and demonstrations, including Australian Culinary Challenge. Plus, take advantage of special trade deals at the show and save money for your business!

For FREE entry, register online before 29 August 2013 at www.finefoodaustralia.com.au and enter priority code: HMAG1 $30 admission applies at the door for visitors that don’t pre-register online.

Strictly trade only. Entry is restricted to members of the retail, foodservice and hospitality industry.

Proof of business identification may be required. Persons not in these categories, including children, will not be admitted at any time. No prams permitted.

9 – 12 SEPTEMBER 2013 SYDNEY CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE www.finefoodaustralia.com.au

eventcatering

An event to

remember

When it comes to functions, innovation and creativity are key as people seek to create memorable experiences for their guests, writes Brea Carter.

A

t Melbourne-based events company Bright Young Things, director Kate Stewart is passionate about delivering functions that exude creativity.

Stewart says the company tends to attract clients who are looking to host a function that is a little left of centre. “A lot of clients come to us because we have a bit of a reputation for being creative and for really working with them on ideas,” Stewart says. “So they will come to us and say, ‘We want a theme but we are not quite sure what’, and we’ll work with them to develop a concept that will suit the messages they’re trying to get across.”

She’s noticed clients are looking to enhance the guest experience by adding unique and often interactive elements to functions. “It’s about trying to excite guests a little bit by bringing in a point of difference and offering more choice,” she says.

“For example we’re seeing more and more clients wanting styled stations. At an event we held this morning there were six types of fresh juice in big beautiful glass dispensers, and guests could make their own fruit salad – our clients are just looking for bits where people can get more involved.”

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hospitality | july 2013

The trend is not confined to day time functions; styled stations are also a regular fixture at evening events. “While it might be a cocktail event, rather than just having canapés going around people are looking to have an amazing table that is a bit of a feature – it might display cheeses, someone may be hand slicing prosciutto or clients may choose to do a taco or dumpling stand,” says Stewart.

The stations are also a hit because they allow guests to pick, choose and graze as they please. “People are getting more and more particular with what they eat, so having a station set up means they can be a little more specific, it provides that flexibility,” she says.

Unique food and beverage options are also a big trend for events.

“When it comes to food, there is a merging of savoury and sweet,” says Stewart. “We’re seeing salt in desserts and sweet pralines in the canapés and things like that.

Circus-themed cupcakes

by Bright Young Things.

“We do savoury macarons; we don’t do sweet ones anymore because they’re everywhere. The new winter one is pumpkin with spiced walnut crème and chevre, then for summer we did avocado, lime and pistachio. It is just the twist on what you would expect.”

When it comes to beverages for function quaffing champagne continues to reign supreme but the rise of boutique cider and beer producers is having an impact on choices. And the non drinkers are also demanding a bit of creativity with nonalcoholic beverages also gaining momentum.

“Our clients are more interested in boutique beers and in summer cider and rosé are popular,” says Stewart.

“They’re also looking to do really beautiful non-alcoholic alternatives for those people who may not be drinking. It is about giving thought to little things like that.”

When it comes to pulling off a successful function, Stewart stresses it’s

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

eventcatering

All that glitters: A dazzling table setting at an event by Bright Young Things.

Images: Bright Young Things

all about the venue. “The key thing for me is choosing the right venue,” she says. “It’s about making sure it’s appropriate for the guest demographic, that the location is suitable for them, that the size of the space is right - you need to make people feel comfortable.”

Stewart says an eye for detail is vital because it’s often those smaller touches that make or break guests’ experience.

“When they organise an event people often forget how important it is to finish it off properly by, for example, making sure people can easily get home because there are cabs out the front, giving guests a parting gift such as a beautifully wrapped chocolate or following up the next day with photos,” she says. “Those small touches make a difference.”

David Mercer, food and beverage director at Epicure Catering says he’s noticed a shift away from the traditional sit down function at all three of the company’s venues – the Melbourne Cricket Ground, ZINC at Federation Square and Melbourne Town Hall.

“There’s more creativity in the structure of the event,” Mercer says. “We were in a meeting this morning regard-

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Kate Stewart

‘People are getting more and more particular with what they eat, so having a station set up means they can be a little more specific, it provides that flexibility,’

ing a large event at the MCG where there will be some fairly significant food stations rather than canapés to start, and then the client wants to move to a sit down main course and fully plated dessert.”

People are also looking to impress guests with more interesting food and beverage options, a trend Mercer believes has been fuelled by the media.

“The focus on food and beverage is considerably greater now than it was 15 years ago,” he says.

“People are more aware of food trends and their expectations around food are higher. When they’re attending a 2000-person function they expect the food to be similar to something they would find in a very good restaurant for 50 people.”

There’s also an expectation that vegetarians and guests with food intolerances receive high quality meals.

“Dietary meals need to be of a similar standard to other meals,” Mercer says.

“Many years ago a vegetarian would have got an avocado salad with some dress-

ing and now it needs to be a complete dish with thought behind it.”

Rather than select from a list of generic options, Mercer says many clients are looking for tailored menus that reflect the theme or message they are trying to get across. “As much as we have a menu that is publicised, we can tailor the menu to meet client requirements,” he says. “It is all about exceeding that promise to deliver a service.

“We’re doing a celebration dinner in November where our pastry chef is looking at how he can theme his dessert in line with the clients requirements. He’s

Details count at this themed Bright Young Things function.

hospitality | july 2013

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eventcatering

‘People attending a 2000 person function expect the food to be similar to something they would find in a very good restaurant for 50 people.’

to do some stencil and logo work on each individual dessert. It doesn’t necessarily cost me any more to do a themed dessert, I am still doing a dessert but it suddenly becomes a lot more special for the client.”

Mercer rates client communication as the most important thing to consider when organising an event. “It’s critical that we understand the needs of every client,” he says.

“The need to listen to, to understand and communicate effectively with the client ensures we understand their requirements and then can ultimately deliver on the promise. Every contract we do is a promise to deliver a service and we need to, at a minimum, meet that promise but ideally exceed it.”

A memorable function also must take advantage of the unique aspects of the venue in which it’s held, while the venue itself should complement the function.

“The MCG has 27 function spaces so it certainly lends to a corporate conferencing market very well,” he says. “Whereas ZINC at Federation Square has a beautiful contemporary décor and offers a lovely aspect overlooking the Yarra so it is predominantly used for social events.”

Mercer says creativity is driving the functions scene due to the sheer proliferation of events being held. “I think many people get invited to lots of events, particularly in the corporate world,” he says. “So in order for our clients to sell seats in an event or to impress the people they are dining with they are looking for an edge, something that sets them apart.”

Food is part theatre at a Trippas White function.

Image: Trippas White

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hospitality | july 2013

Decadent dessert by Epicure Catering.

Image: Epicure Catering

John McFadden, the group executive chef at leading Sydney-based restaurant and catering company, Trippas White Group, says themed functions are proving particularly popular of late. “Over the last six to eight months in particular we’ve found a lot of the functions we’re designing menus for are based around a theme,” McFadden says. “We’ve had a few come up recently including a summer garden party, supper club and vintage garden themed function. There are a lot of functions themed around what companies would like to achieve out of the evening.”

McFadden devises menus according to the individual requirements of each client, and more often than not the function’s theme will dictate the menu. “The food is not necessarily first and foremost,” he says. “People are looking for bespoke menus that fit the theme they have in mind. The client will come to us with a brief and we will do a storyboard and design a menu that fits that brief, as opposed to people ordering off a menu package. We use our menu as a template, but we’re happy to custom design menus and personalise them based on the client’s requirements.”

McFadden says functions are no longer solely a sit down affair as hosts seek to engage with their guests.

“Your round tables of ten are moving on,” he says. “People want more of that communal dining style where they get the chance to network, communicate and be a lot more social as opposed to being stuck at a table.

“This allows stakeholders and company hosts to connect with each of the guests as opposed to them being stationed at a table all evening.”

Food stations and standing entrees and desserts have subsequently become more popular as they provide people with greater opportunities to interact with one another.

“It’s about engaging everybody at the function and the food is part of that offering to engage people, whether that’s through a food station or the way that the pop-up theme is working,” says McFadden.

“People might start with canapés as their entrée, move onto a main course and then they will have dessert canapés to finish off, or they might have an oyster bar or a person slicing prosciutto to have fresh.”

McFadden has noticed people’s changing eating habits are infiltrating function menus. “People are now more aligned to eating smaller portions but more frequently,” he says.

“They don’t want to be sitting in front of a huge plate of food. So menus are tending to feature smaller portions of quite light, friendly food. Tapas style is huge at the moment and I don’t think it is going to go away for quite some time.

“People are also more wary about what they are consuming and health plays a big part in menu design. That is the luxury of those networking events - you can control your consumption, whereas when you sit down you feel obliged to eat what is in front of you.”

At the heart of a successful function though is adequate planning and making sure there is a clear understanding of what’s expected, says McFadden.

“We’re dealing with an array of people which includes media and celebrities or maybe people who are celebrating the most important day of their lives – their wedding - so planning is imperative,” he says. “You have planning, organising, directing and leading, controlling and staffing – these are all important in maintaining a successful function.

“Understanding what the brief is comes in part of the delivery of the function. We need to understand what needs to be delivered at the function and what is achievable to manage everyone’s expectations.

McFadden also stresses organisers pay attention to the finer details, from the style of chairs being used to the colour of the table linen and quality of the champagne flutes.

“It’s quite detailed – and that’s what its about,” he says.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

producechicken

Not so humble There’s chicken and there’s chicken say the leading chefs who are seizing on some of the top quality birds being delivered by producers.

By Rosemary Ryan

Estelle’s Milawa chicken, foie gras, trumpet mushrooms and baby leeks.

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hospitality | july 2013

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

producechicken

C

hicken.

It’s the protein most likely being cooked in Australian homes around the country tonight, and it’s the one that’s been much maligned by many chefs who regard it as too ho-hum to take a starring role on their menus.

But things are changing with the attributes of the humble bird getting more attention in the hands of chefs who are passionate about the produce they’re sourcing from some of the growing number of high quality producers delivering some amazing chicken to their doors - and proving that chicken is not always just chicken.

In some cases too chefs are working closely with producers to develop the style of delicious chicken they have used in Europe and would like to be able to serve here.

Ryan Flaherty, from Melbourne’s Estelle Bar and Kitchen restaurant is a chicken champion who says he loves to use it on his menu. There’s definitely nothing ordinary about chicken in the dishes he creates. “I’m an extreme advocate of chicken,” Flaherty told Hospitality magazine. “I love it, but I think the problem is people overcook it in fear of undercooking it, and aren’t always using the best quality chicken.

“I think most amateurs and also the professionals, we have all been guilty of [overcooking it], especially younger chefs - a minute extra in the oven when we aren’t sure if it’s cooked. They’re very worried about serving raw chicken.”

But, he says, a perfectly cooked piece of chicken is an “amazing” thing. “We have one dish that we’ve done where we did the chicken sous vide at about 65C for 28 minutes and it came up absolutely beautifully. “Beautifully cooked chicken breast is one of the most amazing textures in the world. It’s really lovely.”

Flaherty says the chicken was cooked sous vide with a hint of curry oil, then served sliced and just warm as part of a salad inspired by his favourite sandwich combo – curried egg, chicken, iceberg lettuce and mayonnaise. “I always loved that as a kid and was having a beer with the boys one day and just talked about that,” he says. “Let’s slow cook a chicken breast perfectly in some curry oil, have some brioche crumbs for texture, some confit egg yolks and some compressed celery in apple juice. That one was a lovely chicken from Holmbrae. We’re using the Milawa ones at the moment at Estelle that we stuff with seaweed and

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

trumpet mushroom and serve with a little pomme puree, a chicken liver parfait and a cream-based sauce with some chicken liver in there, a white port reduction and a little baby leek to finish.

“For this one we also slow cook the chicken sous vide then pan sear it and serve it sliced in half so you can see the trumpet and the seaweed stuffing.”

Flaherty says it’s encouraging to see the rise of more producers creating high quality chicken that’s organic and pasture raised. “Chicken has almost really been one that’s been left behind,” he says. “It’s been amazing what’s happened with beef and lamb and pork with the specialty producers and the branding of products but you’re seeing that more now with chicken too with some great names coming though that you can put on your menu.

“And if you put that on there and people realise it’s a premium product and know where it’s coming from, somewhere they’ve read about and have an affiliation with it and a trust, then the customer is willing to pay for that.”

When it comes to chicken Melbourne chef Jacques Reymond is one of the experts but you will rarely see many big chicken dishes on his menu, just hints of it. It’s there in the sexy little chicken ribs that accompany his shitake broth or in some chicken livers tossed through some tagliatelle.

But expect to see more chicken on the French-born chef’s menu soon when he takes delivery of some of the very special chickens that he’s been working closely with a local producer to raise. The chickens are as close to the acclaimed “poulet de Bresse” birds that Reymond misses with a passion having been raised in the Bresse region and with family there who still raise the famed chickens. “At the moment I’m working with a very special producer and we are trying to reproduce the best chicken in the world – the poulet de Bresse,” says Reymond. “We are making some tremendous progress and its very, very encouraging.

“He just started about six months ago and is breeding the birds like they do in Bresse which means the bird is completely free. They are in the fields, in the forests, crossing the road – there

are no barriers. They’re absolutely wild and at night they go back into their little house because they are very intelligent.

Then they go back out in the day and eat the worms and everything in the paddocks.”

Reymond says the taste of these special birds is the same as his beloved Bresse chicken – the only produce he wants that he says he’s not able to get in Australia. “The flesh is not white it’s slightly grey and so are the bones - which are very important - and this is a sign of the quality,” Reymond says. “These chickens are Jacques Reymond’s shitake very unique, they are the only ones that broth served with chicken ribs. taste like the real Bresse chicken that comes from my area.”

Reymond says people will get a surprise when they take their first bite of these chickens. “The flesh is much tougher than normal chicken that’s for sure,” he says. “You have to chew on it and the flavour is fantastic.”

The chef says he’s now waiting for the chickens to reach their ideal weight – about 1.8 kilograms - before he starts using them on his menu. “If I have this sort of chicken then I will put it on the menu, ” he says.

“There are so many ways you can serve them. You can simply roast them because of the wonderful pure and natural flavours. I would cook them very slowly, roasted with not much colour and finish them with some, in the season we are having now, beautiful Australian truffles. And with a little corn cake.”

Rockpool on George head chef Phil Wood is definitely one of Australia’s biggest chicken fans. “It would be my last meal,” he says. “Roast chicken and potato puree - an amazing combination.

“It’s a very special protein when it’s done well. When you have a really good chicken there’s nothing quite like it to be honest. It’s a pretty special ingredient in other countries like France it’s quite treasured.”

Wood is currently loving the chickens he’s using from northern New South Wales producers Hayden and Beth McMillan at Burrawong Gaian who he chats with weekly and who have quickly established themselves as some of the country’s best poultry producers.

He says the pasture-raised chickens are a joy to use. “They are essentially free range and raised, able to have fresh

‘We’ve all been guilty of [overcooking] it, especially younger chefs. They are very worried about serving raw chicken.’

hospitality | july 2013

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producechicken

Rockpool’s chicken zheng shui dan with precious herbs and drunken condiments.

grass and things to peck through,” he says. “And that really comes though in the flavour and texture.”

The chicken is featuring on a number of dishes on his menu at the moment including his Zheng Shui Dan with precious herbs and drunken condiment. “It’s a play on a few dishes but its essentially based around a dish from China that’s served as a medicinal meal for children and the elderly,” he says. “They use a black chicken and they boil it up with medicinal herbs and serve it with a custard.

“We make a stock out of the chicken bones and really roast it and make a chicken oil out of that - and we serve the oil and the stock blended together so you get a real roast chicken flavour.

“Then with the chicken we make almost a thigh mousse sandwich - we blend down some breast to make a mousse and put it between two thighs, poach it, then fry it so you have the crispy skin.”

Chicken also features in Wood’s chicken parfait, inside a “one thousand layer pork” dish, and in a cuttlefish dish using crispy chicken skin. “The chicken skin is something we’ve used on and off since I’ve been here,” says Wood.

“We used to serve it with abalone as well and other dishes. It has just an amazing texture. We take the skin off our stock chickens and scrape it free of most of its fat and then press it between trays and bake it so you get a really crispy roasted piece with really nice flavour and texture. In the cuttlefish dish we toss it through a salad with

duck prosciutto, duck egg yolk, duck gizzards, radishes, coriander, miso paste and chilli.”

Meanwhile, at Sydney’s Berta restaurant, chef O Tama Carey features chicken on the menu but don’t expect breast, legs or thighs. For Carey it’s the chicken innards that she likes to use.

You’ll find chicken livers pan fried with fennel served a little pink inside, and chicken hearts in a spicy sauce served with tagliatelle.

“I’m actually personally not a big fan of chicken but there are lots of parts of the chicken that I love,” Carey says. “So I use the livers - I order as many as I can get - and the hearts which are very commonly used in other cuisines but not that much here.”

Carey also sources her chicken products from Burrawong Gaian. “I really like their livers because they are well handled,” she says. “I just tell them to send whatever amount they have. Sometimes we get a bit less sometimes more. “[Well handled] livers are important - you can’t serve a mangled liver as a dish, it doesn’t look nice. And they don’t cook properly either.”

Carey says she’s occasionally had diners who object to the livers being served pink. “I’ve had some customers who have sent them back and said they’re not cooked enough, I don’t want to eat that.

But people who really do enjoy livers accept it - they want to eat them and they want to eat them cooked properly. If you really don’t like livers there’s no point ordering them.”

‘The flesh is much tougher than normal chicken that’s for sure. You have to chew on it and the flavour is fantastic.’

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hospitality | july 2013

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

managementcomment

Let me communicate How are the lines of communication in your business? By improving the way you communicate to everyone from your staff to suppliers can improve your operation, says Ken Burgin.

Image: Thinkstock

A

re your staff up to date on rosters, rules, menu changes and promotions? You’re probably sick of being told ‘I didn’t know’ or ‘no-one told me’ – getting the message through can be a real problem.

First, let’s think about this statement: ‘communication is the response you receive, not the message you deliver.’ It’s not what you said, but what people heard and acted on. You may think what you said is clear, but if the other person hears something different or not at all the communication fails.

So what to do? Blame them for being stupid, unmotivated or deaf or work out a better way so they really do ‘get it’?

Be more flexible, try different methods, times of the day or other channels.

For example, say food costs too high.

The usual communication method is a spreadsheet or P&L report, but angry figures won’t communicate much if the chefs don’t have a good grasp of figures.

Teach them how percentages work and your message will make sense.

If shifts are being missed, maybe you should text reminders instead of putting them on the noticeboard. If grooming standards aren’t followed, photo examples may be more effective than a written policy.

In fact, information is being shared by staff all the time – mostly informal and driven by rumours, TV, friends and emotions. Even though if it feels like your business is one big family, there are lots of things the boss won’t hear. You need good radar and good ‘sources’.

How often are you sharing good news? Positive messages build us up.

Training events, praise for a busy night, recognition for a new dessert etc. So when we have to announce hard decisions or something not so positive, it’s not the only thing you talk about.

And if you don’t give an explanation, people will make up their own (or rely on rumours). Noticeboards, memos and messages on pay slips can work, but some electronic methods may be more effective.

One of the fastest ways to improve communication is with SMS text mes-

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

saging - to staff as a group, and individually. It can reinforce email, remind people to read the noticeboard, share good news or link to a timesheet or roster updates.

More than 95 per cent of text messages are opened and read, so this has to be the number one communication channel.

For many staff, the phone is their computer and friend, so encourage smart phones for young and old.

You need an efficient system to send texts, using an online SMS service, or by adding a text facility to your payroll system. Bulk SMS rates can be as low as 5 cents each, so cost is no problem. I have a button on my web browser that pops open a small window ready to write a text and send it to one or many people on my list.

Second priority is email – all staff need an email address, although opening rates can be low and excuses are made.

If your staff have a business address, it should include an email signature that’s added automatically. Email etiquette needs reinforcement – correct spelling, capital letters and replies to complete the communication cycle.

Third priority is a private Facebook group, accessible and viewable only by people who you’ve approved. At least 90 per cent of your staff use Facebook, so it’s an opportunity too good to miss.

Share information from management,

and watch the conversations between staff - sharing photos, birthday news, shift requests and a myriad of other uses are great for Facebook. It doesn’t replace the other methods, but reinforces and amplifies. You can give and revoke access to a priKen Burgin vate group as needed.

Other important online sharing will come through an online calendar such as Google Calendar, Outlook or iCal so that important dates are visible on phones and PCs. This can be subscribed to by staff on their phone and PC. Plus a central place for important documents and reference information to be stored – staff manuals, policy documents, instruction sheets and training material.

If you’re in a large organisation, this may be done through an Intranet or a service like Microsoft’s Sharepoint.

An excellent, and free, alternative for small business is Google Sites. At Profitable Hospitality we use this for all the instructions on how to add and update content on our website, plus training material and videos for new staff and storage for downloadable documents.

Content is confidential and staff are given access to read and edit content or ‘read only’.

Let’s not forget traditional meetings, but ones that are short and efficiently run. They should be a weekly ritual that enhance the culture of communication. Work from an agenda and have someone take good minutes – these open next week’s meeting to find out if people have followed through on their Today’s menu commitments. There are good meeting ‘apps’ for iPad and tablets, to give you a consistent format and the ability to cirrules rosters promotions culate and save the minutes.

We’re not doing away with the staff COMMUNICATION noticeboard and paper memos, but given their track record of being ignored and abused, isn’t it time to try new strategies menu changes some new methods?

‘If shifts are being missed maybe you should send text reminders instead of putting them on the noticeboard.’

Ken Burgin is a leading hospitality management consultant. To find out more visit www.profitablehospitality.com or contact him on 1800 001 353.

hospitality | july 2013

31

managementcomment

Drugs shouldn’t be labelled “recreational” and there’s nothing “social” about social media, says our columnist Tony Berry.

T

he English language is a funny old thing: a bit like Cairns. Beautiful one day, ghastly the next.

It can describe in the most precise and exquisite terms or be used equally precisely to damn and destroy. It is Tony Berry cosseted by its lovers and mangled by its abusers, of whom there are far too many.

Unfortunately two examples of its prevailing misuse are closely linked to the hospitality industry. It is here that the phrase “recreational drugs” is most frequently applied. But what is “recreational” about the effect these substances have upon their users? They are drugs. They are harmful to their users, to those around them and to the community at large. It would help if we stopped labelling the killer potions that are so rife within the industry as “recreational” and thereby condoning their use.

A kindred phrase that distorts reality and is being thrust upon our industry is “social media” – a label applied to the plethora of texting, Facebooking, messaging, tweeting, YouTubing, and Flickring options.

These systems and sites are predominantly the antithesis of all that the hospitality industry stands for. They aren’t social; but antisocial. They don’t welcome and embrace but are reclusive and remote. They communicate from a distance rather than face to face. They’re anonymous rather than personal. They divide rather than unite; the attention of customers around a table is more focused on their phones and tablets than on the people they’re with.

And yet this industry, which is founded on sociability, togetherness and inclusiveness, is supposed to embrace this alienating package of behaviour.

Speakers at Foodservice Australia this year seemed to be largely in favour of social media as a valuable business tool. Certainly it can be a good way to present your services to a vast audience.

But, as another recent commentator said, the use of social media can also do more harm than good.

Once your restaurant, hotel, bar, café or whatever is “out there” it’s also open to attack.

As many dissatisfied customers have discovered, the quickest and most public way of complaining is to state their case on an operator’s Facebook page. It’s there for all to see and your reputation has been instantly tarnished. “Like us on Facebook” is an open invitation to the barbarians at the gate.

As Ed Charles of Tomato Media advised the Foodservice Australia audience, a “Like” is no measure of success or even of popularity. It’s merely symptomatic of the twitchy fingers “social” media has bred.

He advises that “the real measure is engagement or reach”. But surely there’s nothing real about engaging with anonymous people clicking a button on a whim. Where’s the proof that they’ve sampled your venue or are even in the same country?

Even odder in the face of all this urging to use “social” media is the Australian accommodation sector’s totally unjustifiable charges for internet use by their guests. If cyber communication is so allpervasive and allegedly so essential, why provide deterrents to internet use?

A skim through the accommodation listings for Sydney and Melbourne failed to produce any establishment offering free WiFi. Costs varied from an excruciating $29 a day to $3 an hour.

Having recently done a bit of touring through the UK it soon became obvious that there free WiFi is the norm. One wonders when Australia’s accommodation sector will realise free WiFi is not only a service as basic as hot and cold running water but is also an effective selling tool.

Sadly, it’s of course also the link to all that antisocial media railed against earlier. But that seems to be a plague we must simply live with it, manage it, control it - and hope all who press Like really mean it.

‘They are not social; but antisocial. They do not welcome and embrace but are reclusive and remote.’

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hospitality | july 2013

Tony Berry is a former editor of Hospitality magazine, a restaurant reviewer, and restaurateur. You can get in touch with him via his email at tonybee@ ozemail.com.au

doctorhospitality The boss turns up late for every staff meeting, but always criticises staff who are late for work. I’m the manager. How do I raise this?

How important is the boss’s presence to the functioning of the meetings? If he plays no real role as far as input, advice, or direction, it may be best to leave it. But if everyone is being held up and this impacts proceedings, giving a gentle hint might resolve the issue without confrontation.

Mention that you’ve noticed his initial absences and are willing to help him with his busy schedule. Ask him in advance about his plans for the next meeting and tell him you’ll be happy to start on his behalf. Hopefully, he’ll take the hint. Your job is to put the business first.

How do I help a new, young manager get respect from a group of very experienced bar staff?

Lack of respect can quickly cultivate insecurity and further impact performance. While she’s ultimately responsible for her success, these experienced employees should also play a supporting role. You hired this manager for a reason and providing strong support will help her have the strength to do a better job. Make sure the staff understand their seniority doesn’t give them the right to watch a co-worker fail. Once she has more support and respect, she’ll either do a better job or decide this job is not the right fit.

I’m about to take on a business partner for the cafe. Please remind me of what I should do in this new ‘marriage’!

Most importantly, don’t start this partnership with on-the-job training.

It’s absolutely essential to work out every possible detail of the arrangement down to your individual strengths, philosophies, and profit sharing well before you start working together.

This ensures serious problems with differing management styles don’t come to the forefront and affect not only the two of you, but your staff and the customers. And don’t forget to have a clear agreement on how to dissolve the partnership and value it if it has to be sold, for whatever reason.

Have a question for the good doctor?

Send him your queries via Hospitality editor Rosemary Ryan with a quick email to rosemary.ryan@cirrusmedia.com.au

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Images: Thinkstock

Not so recreational

shelfspace

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4 1 Sangria in a bottle Australian company East Ninth Brewing has jumped into the sangria category with its latest offering, Fog City Red Sangria. The beverage takes its inspiration from “upcyling,” a process where fruit that would otherwise be discarded is used to produce beverages. The sangria is made using ripe red wine grapes and blended with natural citrus fruit flavours, and the 500mL bottles are available in cartons of 12.

See www.e9thbrewing.com.au

2 Bite-sized pies with a tasty difference The Fancy Little Pies range from Tasmanian Pies offers a departure from the traditional meat pie. The new range features four gourmet varieties made from quality ingredients - minted lamb, chicken and camembert, peppered beef and waygu beef. The pies are made using patented pastry technology to ensure each one contains 128 layers

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

of crispy puff pastry. With a diameter of 6cm, the pies are a size that makes them perfect for serving at functions and events.

Head to www.tasmanianbakeries. com.au

3 Colourful dinnerware adds character to any venue The new Colorwave collection from Noritake features 16 brightly coloured stoneware pieces, including round and square dinner and salad plates, cereal, rice and pasta bowls, a creamer and salt and pepper shakers.

The collection is available in apple green, turquoise, charcoal grey, raspberry or graphite. Each piece is heat and chip resistant and can be used in the oven, microwave oven and dishwasher.

Head to www.noritake.com.au

4 Healthy grain alternative Goodness Superfoods has recently entered the foodservice market

with its range of cereals, porridges, wraps, bars and sprinkles. The products contain BARLEYmax™, a non-genetically modified wholegrain developed by the CSIRO that has twice the dietary fibre of regular grains and a low GI. They are being positioned as a great alternative for foodservice operators who want to offer customers healthier options at breakfast, lunch and in between meals. The products are available in bulk sizes and 50g sachets.

Visit www.goodnesssuperfoods. com.au

5 New Tip Top frozen bread range delivers convenience Tip Top Foodservice has released a new frozen bread range encompassing white, wholemeal, multigrain and super thick sliced white bread, as well as super thick raisin bread and traditional English muffins. The specially frozen products can be stored in the

freezer for four months and thaw out quickly, making them suitable for bustling commercial kitchens.

The new range will be of particular advantage to foodservice operators in remote locations where freshly baked bread is not delivered on a daily basis.

Visit www.tiptop-foodservice.com.au to find out more.

6 Sweet syrups add extra flavour to drinks Monin has released two new gourmet sauces to the Australian market – dark chocolate and caramel. They’re designed for use across a range of settings including cafes, restaurants and bars, and can be used in drinks from coffees and milkshakes to cocktails, or in delicious desserts. Made from 100 per cent pure cane sugar and purified water, the sauces are free of preservatives, additives and artificial flavours.

Check out www.monin.com.au

hospitality | july 2013

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Striking design, powerful performance.

Waldorf Bold delivers a new aesthetic approach enhancing the Waldorf 800 Series’ widely appreciated speed, power and efficiency.

When your kitchen needs to attract and enthrall, this range is sleek, seductive and sophisticated right down to the custom plinth mounting. And, while we started with a dramatic black vitreous enamel finish, Waldorf Bold is also available in burgundy and chilli red.

So get in touch and get ready to make a bold impression.

For further information on the creative possibilities of Waldorf Bold contact www.moffat.com.au or phone 1800 023 953.

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