Hospitality Magazine September 2013 by Hospitality Magazine

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No.698 September 2013

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

foodservice

accommodation

beverage

management

Weighing up

sustainability How important is certification?

PLUS:

Print Post Approved PP349181/00109

We review Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Woods

SHIMMERS & SHINES The latest trends in glassware revealed

Lamb Tales

What will our top chefs be plating up this Spring?

A spice & a splash Matching your favourite wines with spicy food

FOX3782[CLHEN9].pdf

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19/08/2013,

3:19

The Dark Knight Rises (M)

Layer Cake (MA15+)

The Intouchables (M)

War Horse (M)

21 Jump Street (MA15+)

Wreck-It Ralph (PG)

Rocky Balboa (M)

Boardwalk Empire S4 (MA15+)

You can now deliver a world of entertainment to every guest, in every room. With a box in every room our residential-style Platinum Accommodation Package includes 112 channels, with 7 dedicated entirely to movies. It’s a service that will help your business stand out, and your guests settle in. A Foxtel Platinum Accommodation Package can attract more guests by offering: • Hundreds of movies per month across 7 themed movie channels – Premiere, Action/Adventure, Comedy, Family, Masterpiece, Drama/Romance and World Movies • Our Premium Drama channel – showcase: the home of HBO • The freedom to record, pause, rewind and fast-forward live TV.

For more information call 1300 362 282 Foxtel and some services not available in some areas/buildings. Foxtel marks are used under licence by Foxtel Management Pty Ltd. Boardwalk Empire © Home Box Office Inc. All rights reserved. FOX3782

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16 editor’s note

henever people refer to the uphill battle a certain professional faces in trying to live up to the very high standards set by a departed colleague, the term that’s often thrown around is ‘big shoes to fill.’ Well, in my instance, this doesn’t even come close to explaining the challenge that lies ahead. When I was offered the chance to step up and take on Hospitality magazine as managing editor, I was immediately overwhelmed. My predecessor, Rosie Ryan, whom you all no doubt know and love, set an incredibly high benchmark during her seven-plus years on this title. She knows the CV of pretty much every top-notch Aussie chef like the back of her hand, she juggled print deadlines with the daily grind of websites, e-newsletters, posting and tweeting with grace and composure (an amazing feat - I’m just realising how stressful it can all be!) and was always thinking about how to deliver a better product to her readers. So no, ‘shoes’ doesn’t cut it. But regardless of how daunting my job title now is, I’m determined to give it a good go and live up to the standard that’s been set. And I’d love to get your feedback! Please pick up the phone or send me an email and tell me what you love, or don’t love, about Hospitality. I’m very open to suggestions and am looking forward to working with you all in the future.

Managing editor: Danielle Bowling danielle.bowling@ cirrusmedia.com.au

PUBLISHER Martin Sinclair martin.sinclair@cirrusmedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Danielle Bowling Ph: (02) 8484 0667 danielle.bowling@cirrusmedia.com.au JOURNALISTS Brea Carter Ph: (02) 8484 0661 brea.carter@cirrusmedia.com.au Alexandra E Petri Ph: (02) 8484 0854 alexandra.petri@cirrusmedia.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Christine Salins, Ken Burgin & Tony Berry

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Fish & Co’s Tom Kime is an advocate for sustainablysourced seafood. Image: Gavin Johns

cover

contents FEATURES

12 The great seafood debate Which fish species are chefs buying today, and are they sustainable?

16 Lamb tales Under-utilised, cost effective lamb cuts shine on the menu this Spring.

REGULARS

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rizwan Nawaz Ph: (02) 8484 0622 rizwan.nawaz@cirrusmedia.com.au ADVERTISING NATIONAL Rhonnie Merry Ph: (02) 8484 0642 Fax: (02) 8484 0915 rhonnie.merry@cirrusmedia.com.au PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Troy Stevens Ph: (02) 8484 0748 troy.stevens@cirrusmedia.com.au PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Laura Panameno Ph: (02) 8484 0772 laura.panameno@cirrusmedia.com.au

10 Beverages

Hot industry news from our website.

Workplace Managing termination - there’s more to it than meets the eye.

New openings The latest arrivals on the hospitality block.

20 Shimmers and shines The latest trends in glassware revealed, and tips to reduce breakages.

News online

Mystery diner

A masterclass on matching wine with spicy food.

25 Ken Burgin 11 tips to help you upskill.

33 Rant Who’s really mastered the demise of fine dining?

33 Shelf space

We heads down to The Woods.

Six new products that you might need for your kitchen.

SUBSCRIPTIONS Ph: 1300 360 126 ONE YEAR: $132.00 incl GST TWO YEARS: $220.00 incl GST

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Average Net Distribution Period ending March 2013 - 13,950

PRINTED BY: Bluestar Print 83 Derby Street, Silverwater NSW 2128 P: 02 9748 3411 MATERIAL The publisher does not accept responsibility for any editorial or advertising material forwarded or held in storage nor will material be automatically returned. Whole or part of this publication cannot be reproduced without prior written approval from Hospitality’s management.

CIRRUS MEDIA Tower 2, Level 3, 475 Victoria Ave, Chatswood, NSW 2067, Australia Locked Bag 4700 Chatswood Delivery Centre, NSW 2067, Australia P: (02) 8484 0888 F: (02) 8484 0633 ABN 80 132 719 861 www.cirrusmedia.com.au © Copyright Cirrus Media, 2013

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newsonline

Awards season praises best in the game THE RESTAURANT awards season has passed for another year, with leading chefs and restaurants praised for their innovation in foodservice. At The Age Good Food Guide Awards, chef Ben Shewry came out on top, being named Chef of the Year and also taking home the Restaurant of the Year award for his Ripponlea restaurant, Attica, which was also presented with three chefs’ hats, along with Flower Drum, Jacques Reymond and Vue de Monde. In Sydney, the big winner was Guillaume Brahimi, whose restaurant Guillaume at Bennelong was also presented with three hats - the first time since 2008. Brahimi also claimed the Vittoria Coffee Legend Award in what was surely a bittersweet moment for the chef, who earlier this year announced he’ll be closing his restaurant at Sydney’s Opera House. Also donning three hats is Martin Benn’s Sepia, which also took home the Restaurant of the Year award - the second time since 2009 - as well as Momofuku Seiobo, Quay and Rockpool. A number of high profile venues lost hats, including Mark Best’s Marque, the Merivale Group’s est., and Surry Hills’ Porteno. ‘Legend’ Guillaume Brahimi

■ Full story at http://bit.ly/h0913new1

AUSTRALIAN CULINARY STUDENTS TO COMPETE IN JAPAN Neil Abrahams, national secretary, Australian Culinary Federation, said there should be 10 teams competing in this year’s ISSCC. “This year there will be two teams from New Caledonia, three teams from Australia, a team from Canada, a team from Japan, a team from Taiwan, from New Zealand and from Tahiti,” he said.

■ Full story at http://bit.ly/h0913new2

NEW SAFETY APP SYSTEMS on a Shoestring has launched Australia’s first workplace safety app to help businesses be compliant with Work Health and Safety legislation. The SOAS Simple Safety app is the only step-by-step system in Oz to help SMEs, including café owners, meet Work Health and Safety compliance needs while on the go.

Image: Thinkstock 4

■ Full story at http://bit.ly/h0913new3

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Image: Thinkstock

Six secondary students from QLD, SA and the ACT will head to Osaka to represent Australia in the International Secondary Schools Culinary Challenge (ISSCC) on 27 September. The lucky students are Ashley Sullivan and Taylor Trantor of Penola High in SA; Ben McDonald and Jemima Edwards of Daramalan College in the ACT; and Ryan Scott and Grant Casselle of Marymount College in QLD.

Sign up today! To receive our free Hospitality magazine e-newsletter. WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? Have all the lastest stories come straight to your email! Scan this QR code or alternatively visit our website for more information.

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newsonline

yoursay

FROYO FIBS AN INVESTIGATION by consumer watchdog Choice, has found that a number of frozen yoghurt (froyo) outlets could be in breach of Australian Consumer Law in addition to making dodgy health claims. Food policy advisor at Choice, Angela McDougall, said that health claims made by Image: Thinkstock stores, including that froyo is capable of ‘slowing the body’s ageing process’, is simply “outlandish.” McDougall also stressed that froyo is not a health food, but a dessert treat that is routinely smothered with sugary toppings. “Froyo might be tasty but it’s not a health food and it’s unlikely to give consumers the outlandish health benefits claimed by some stores,” she said.

Hospitality Magazine posted an album:

Franco Franco launch!

■ Full story at http://bit.ly/h0913new4

JACQUES REYMOND TO RETIRE

Image: Thinkstock

VETERAN chef Jaques Reymond used the recent The Age Good Food Guide awards to announce his retirement after 30 years in the restaurant industry. Reymond’s eponymously-named Melbourne restaurant has earned The Age’s highest honour - three chefs hats - for 17 of the past 24 years, including at this year’s awards presentation. In January 2014 Reymond will hand the reins over to his long-time sous chefs, Hayden McFarland and Thomas Woods, and the venue will be renamed Woodland House. The French restaurateur has faith his successors will bring a fresh new energy to the restaurant. “I have confidence and pride in Thomas and Hayden and am honoured and pleased to see their continuity in the beautiful establishment and that they will carry on a tradition and ensure the satisfaction of our existing clientele,” Reymond said. Moving beyond the day to day running of his much-loved restaurant, Reymond is looking forward to spending more time with his family, developing new projects with his four children and honouring freelancing and international hosting placement requests. “This is an exciting new stage, I am not leaving the industry I love and will continue to work and be more available for interesting opportunities,” he said. Jacques Reymond

■ Full story at http://bit.ly/h0913new5

Pizza, pasta and salumi heaven at the new Italian eatery in Surry Hills

■ Full album: http://bit.ly/h0913new6

Hospitality Magazine posted:

Not what I was expecting when I ordered my green tea! Call me old fashioned but I’m a leaves kind of gal.

The Rabbit Hole commented: Who wants to pay for a teabag (even a fancy teabag) in a cafe. It would be like serving a coffee drinker a cup of instant!

Hospitality Magazine replied:

For other stories and information please visit our website: www.hospitalitymagazine.com.au

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AGREE! It was fairly lacklustre...not a great start to the day!

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Image: Thinkstock

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workplaceissues

Workplace

separations

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Regardless of whether staff members leave voluntarily or are asked to move on, business owners need to manage the situation very carefully, says Restaurant and Catering Australia.

2 0 1 3 - 0 8 - 2 6 T0 9 : 3 3 : 4 6 + 1 0 : 0 0

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Image: Thinkstock

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workplaceissues

ermination of employment is an often necessary part of business life; nonetheless it is a difficult time for both parties. Despite this inherent difficulty, ensuring that the correct process is adhered to is essential. At the time of termination employees are entitled to be paid out all monies owed to them at that point of the pay-cycle, as well as any accrued Annual Leave. For long serving employees, there are provisions in state legislation that entitles them to pro rata Long Service Leave payments as well. These payments are necessary for all terminated employees, whether the termination is employee or employer initiated (state-by-state determined). With the exception of employees terminated under Summary Dismissal guidelines for “serious misconduct”, termination has a statutorily required notice period. A well held apprehension by employers involves having to determine whether or not to make payment in lieu of notice or have the employee work out their notice period. This is understandable considering the often emotional responses to termination and how a terminated employee may deal with customers during the notice period.

Many hospitality employers suffer high rates of staff turnover and it’s not uncommon for employees to “walk out” after a few weeks employment. This can complicate the final payout of accrued entitlements. The Fair Work Act 2009 defines a dismissal as follows: A person has been dismissed if: a. the person’s employment with his or her employer has been terminated on the employer’s initiative; or b. the person has resigned from his or her employment, but was forced to do so because of conduct, or a course of conduct, engaged in by his or her employer. The latter section of the Act deals with what is called constructive dismissal so it is important not to assume an employee has resigned as this may also be challenged as an unfair dismissal. In a recent case before the Victorian Magistrates Court, an employee who worked for his brother in a family run business argued that he was constructively dismissed even though he told the Operations Manager to “get f@%*ed” and that “I don’t want to work with that snotty nose p*&ck anyway, and I will

“It is important not to assume an employee has resigned as this may also be challenged as an unfair dismissal.”

This article was written by the workplace relations team at Restaurant & Catering Australia. Contact them on 1300 722 878.

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DO YOU WANT A PRICE BAROMETER? Having ﬂexibility in your menu beneﬁts you in the long run due to the price counterbalance of the meat industry, as particular primals of the carcase increase and at the same time other parts will decrease. This allows you to buy the right primal at the right price at the right time of the year.

look for another job.” However, the Magistrate found that “The cases involving ‘constructive dismissal’ generally involve circumstances where the employer’s actions bring about the termination of employment even though the final act is that of the employee resigning.” Furthermore the Magistrate in this case ruled that the termination was not at the initiative of the employer and held that the employee had in fact resigned. In summary it is important for proprietors and business owners to understand the importance of the termination process and the inherent risks in heat of the moment decisions. In circumstances where either party make hasty or emotional decisions it is advisable to seek advice before entrenching a position. It may save you a bundle in the long run. In family-run businesses, it is also prudent to apply consistent policies and procedures for family members on the payroll in order to avoid litigation in multiple jurisdictions.

You will with www.meatonline.com.au It’s quite simple - buy your products at the right price and receive the quality you expect when products are in season... all priced at the correct levels relative to supply and demand.

DO YOU WANT TO BUY DIRECT FROM THE PROCESSORS? Buying direct means no extra margins for a middle man. Yes, you or your staff may need to do a little more prep work but improvement to the bottom line goes directly to you, not to your current suppliers

Visit us now at www.meatonline.com.au Let us help you slice the fat from your meat bill

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newopenings

Khao Pla

Having worked at Sydney hotspots including Ms G’s, Spice I Am and Mr Wong, Bangkok-born chef Pla Rajoratanavichai has made the brave leap of opening his own restaurant, Khao Pla in Chatswood. The 40 seat restaurant takes on a Thai-Indie concept, and it offers diners simple yet flavoursome dishes while creating a unique environment with 90s hip hop artists Nas and Run DMC playing in the background. The menu has an authentic Bangkok-style; however, it also showcases regional and classic Thai dishes, including the much-loved Pad Thai. Diners should also keep an eye out for the raw section on Khao Pla’s menu, as well as the desserts (of course), with treats including black sticky rice with a dark sugarcane sauce and Thai milk-tea ice cream.

Check it out: Owner: Pla Rajoratanavichai Chef: Pla Rajoratanavichai Where: Shop 7, 370 Victoria Avenue, Chatswood P: 02 9412 4978 W: http://bit.ly/h0913ope1

Silks Restaurant

Five-star Chinese restaurant Silks has come to call the Crown Perth home. The restaurant features five private dining rooms, one of which is a sky dining room that offers sweeping views of the city and Swan River. Head chef Pat Cheong heads up the kitchen at Silks, who just spent time working in Macau’s Jade Dragon under the direction of Michelinstarred chef Tam. On the menu is a vast spread of authentic Cantonese dishes, traditional Chinese tea and desserts as well as an extensive dim sum menu. Signature dishes include the hakka-style stir fried chicken and the Szcehuan lamb rack with chilli and cumin.

Franco Franco

Franco Franco offers diners an atmosphere that feels like they’ve left Australia without ever having stepped foot on a plane. This new Italian venture by the Food Fund Australia group with co-owner Frank Carioti comprises separate spaces focusing on pizza, pasta and salumi as well as a bar with a focus on traditional southern Italian food. The restaurant boasts an open kitchen as well as a salumeria, allowing customers to drool over the traditional cold meats when they’re not watching the chefs tossing pizzas and rolling out fresh pasta. The aperitif bar and wine list is focused strictly on Italian wines and spirits.

Chop Chop Changs

Named after the first Astro-chimp sent into space with the American program in 1961, Chop Chop Changs features a street-food style menu with strong Thai and Vietnamese influences. Headed up by chef Shuana Stockwell, this pan-Asian restaurant puts the limelight on fresh produce and local ingredients. The menu offers an extensive list of hawker stall dishes such as twice-cooked sticky beef ribs and a temple stall menu with lighter fare including wok wilted morning glory. Asian beers are the key players on the drinks menu, while the wine list is internationally-inspired. Cocktails include the lycee martini and the Cebu sour.

Check it out:

Owners: Crown Perth Chefs: Head Chef Pat Cheong, Dim Sum chef Sam Feng Where: Great Eastern Highway, Burswood, Victoria Park W: http://bit.ly/h0913ope2

Owners: Food Fund Australia and Frank Carioti Chef: Head chef Francesco Armillis Where: 628 Crown Street, Surry Hills P: 02 9318 0500 W: http://bit.ly/h0913ope3

Owner: Brett Nolan Chef: Shuana Stockwell Where: 185 Boundary Street, West End, Brisbane P: 07 3846 7746 W: http://bit.ly/h0913ope4

hospitality | September 2013

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mysterydiner

The Woods, Four Seasons There’s no disguising the beautiful produce and sublime setting on display at one of Sydney’s hottest hotel dining destinations. It’s clear for all to see, writes our masked diner.

f you go down to the woods today you’d better go in disguise … and so the rhyme goes. Well, the bride and I did go to ‘The Woods’ and, as a mystery reviewer, the disguise isn’t required. Tucked into the back of the foyer of the Four Seasons we are welcomed by a succession of charming hotel staff on the way to the timbered surrounds of the restaurant proper. It’s an impressive entrance really, with the kitchen dominating centre stage and as open as you could be without having people eating in the middle of the kitchen itself. There is a wood oven on the left, a wood grill on the right and hatted chef Hamish Ingham in the middle. The restaurant title refers to his passion for cooking with wood – as well as coals and ash. Tables, chairs and floors are all timber, but sound is more muted than expected due to the excellent restaurant design which has ‘rooms’ and levels that give an intimate feel, despite the size. I had one of those lovely moments when every entrée option is enticing and it takes bread and wine to work through. Now, it may be that I consider bread a staple that makes me baulk at paying $3 per person for what amounts to one roll each, but it is my only hesitation for the night. With pre-dinner drinks consumed, we order a small carafe of Petit Chablis

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($23) from the interesting list and settle in. I also really like the trend to offer good wine in carafes of differing sizes that amount to the same price as a bottle. The beloved chose the Ash seasoned Ocean Trout ($22); a wonderful dish with a generous portion of trout in a curve across one side of the plate with a considerable ridge of smoked trout roe and a dusting of ash. A mound of verdantly green parsley salad takes the top of the plate and some lightly toasted brioche chunks are there to add sweetness and crunch. I chose a Crispy Chicken Wing ($22) and it comes looking nothing like I expected. The meat has been slow cooked and deboned with several chunks along the plate and tender pieces of Jerusalem artichoke, a medley of mushrooms and pickled shallots. The meat was tender and moist with the skin burnished brown. Mains arrive with another small carafe of wine; this one is a Dalrymple Pinot ($23) and it provides wonderful company to the spatchcock and beef. Her Spatchcock ($34) was a large wood roasted bird, and comes with parsley root, burnt butter, white radicchio and sea parsley. It was at once rustic and elegant with sections of spatchcock piled high with crisp salad and the whitest puree.

“Given the quality of the chef, the great produce and beautiful setting, there’s no surprise how good The Woods turns out to be.”

My Beef Rib ($39) had been cooked twice - once to allow the muscle to tenderise, and the second time in a pan to get a crusty outer. It works a treat and these two fat chunks of meat wore a coat of lovely black garlic and black vinegar caramel sauce. Delicious wilted saltbush provided much needed plant matter to balance the beef. As usual, my enthusiasm for the first couple of courses has left little room for dessert so we decide to share an apple tart. With thin sliced apple through the middle and light puffed pastry edges, it was crowned with a creamy quenelle and was delightful. The Four Seasons should be rapt to have this new dining option in its hotel. The rest of the teddy bears’ picnic rhyme says I’m in for a big surprise, but given the quality of the chef, the great produce and beautiful setting, there is no surprise how good The Woods turns out to be.

Check it out Owner: Four Seasons, Sydney Chef: Hamish Ingham Where: 199 George Street, Sydney Hours: Mon - Fri, 12pm-2:30pm & Mon - Sat, 5:30pm-10:30pm P: 02 9250 3160 W: www.thewoodsrestaurant.com.au

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beveragesimbibe

A splash and a spice As if perfect food and wine pairings aren’t hard enough to come by, one passionate winemaker has thrown some heat in the mix, writes Christine Salins.

hoosing wines to serve with spicy food, especially dishes that are chilli-laden, can be a challenge. “In my experience, spice tends to make wines more interesting,” says Mudgee winemaker, David Lowe. “It can accentuate all the worst things and the best things [in a wine].” In a bid to get people talking about wine and food matching, Lowe pitted some of his aromatic whites and bold Mudgee reds against the robust, spicy, Thai-inspired food at Canberra restaurant, Thirst. First cab off the rank was the Louee 2012 Nullo Mountain Riesling, a delicate dry white that won’t be released until 2015. When it does hit the shelves, it will carry a price tag of around $70, an extraordinarily bold move that will pitch it alongside Lowe’s flagship Zinfandel. It’ll be one of the most expensive Rieslings in Australia, if not the most, but Lowe is unapologetic. “People won’t pay a lot for Riesling unless it’s aged ... And it’s an expensive vineyard to run.” The Riesling is from the Louee vineyard, 1,100m above sea level on Nullo Mountain, near Rylestone, NSW. A much cooler site than Lowe’s vineyards in Mudgee, 50km away and almost 700m lower, Nullo Mountain’s high sunshine hours and UV light increase the phenolics that build flavour and mouth feel. “What we can therefore achieve with this vineyard is lovely flavour and ripeness at lower baumé and subsequently lower alcohol levels,” says Lowe. “We have all the resources in this vineyard to make some of the country’s best Riesling,

“Generally speaking, wines, be they white or red, stand up well to chilli and spice if they are fruity and not too tannic.”

David Lowe regularly hosts wine tasting and pairing sessions.

hospitality | September 2013

Pinot Grigio and other aromatic wines.” The Riesling’s cool climate elegance is impressive, and by itself makes for beautiful drinking, but its delicate flavours were overwhelmed by Thirst’s spicy fish cakes and sweetcorn fritters. This was an unhappy marriage with both partners crying for attention. A better match was the Louee 2012 Pinot Grigio, crisp and acidic like the Riesling but with honeyed characters and a little more body, giving it a fighting chance. The Pinot Grigio was also a reasonable, although less than perfect match for the zesty, spicy Crispy Fish Salad that followed. The most inspired match of the exercise was a pork sausage made with red curry paste, kaffir lime leaf, galangal, sticky rice and a hint of lemongrass. Thirst chef Jeff Piper perfected this cold-smoked sausage while working in his previous venture, Anise, where he served it alongside pork belly. It was brilliantly matched by Lowe’s 2012 Headstone Rosé, the light, crisp, dryness of the wine presenting a good foil for the spicy sausage. “I resisted Rosé for a long time,” Lowe said. “In 1992 and 1996, I made Rosé in Bordeaux. I got quite a reputation in Europe for it.” (His Rosé won London Times Rosé of the Year in 1992 and 1993). Released in November, this is the first Rosé under the Lowe label. It is made from organic Primitivo grapes, similar to Zinfandel but with smaller bunches and darker flavours. Subtle and understated, it is relatively low in alcohol, at just under 12 percent. Generally speaking, wines, be they white or red, stand up well to chilli and spice if they are fruity and not too tannic. Burgundy’s light-bodied Beaujolais, made from the Gamay grape, is a good example. But Shiraz, Grenache and blends of the two can also work well if they are not too tannic. Lowe offered his 2009 Shiraz and 2011 Shiraz for tasting, along with back vintages from 2002 to 2007. Of these, the 2011 Block 8 Shiraz complemented the Penang curry best, perhaps because it was from a particularly cold vintage and

David Lowe.

hence was softer and silkier than the tannic wines that Mudgee reds tend to be. Lowe made his first Zinfandel in 2003 and today it is his flagship wine, selling for $70. Fruitier than the Shiraz, the 2010 Zinfandel has enticing raisin characters. It went beautifully with a Massaman curry and will be one to watch out for when it is released in the next few months. Some Zinfandels have an alcohol content of 17 percent. “Ours varies from 13 to 15 percent and it’s finer, slower-ageing.” Lowe’s explanation for making a variety that is rarely seen in Australia: “This is one of only 10 Zinfandels in Australia so it’s easy to be the best. With Shiraz, there’s a long queue ahead of me.” Lowe holds regular dinners at the winery teaching people about the basics of making and tasting wine. One of the most interesting taste explorations is at Lowe’s Ninja @ Tinja dinner, held each November, inspired by Lowe’s Japanese friends and wine buyers, and modelled on the Tokyo restaurant that hosted Tarantino’s Kill Bill movie. “The restaurant in the movie is actually named Nishi Gonpachi, and they are great supporters of Lowe and Mudgee wine,” Lowe said. The dinner explores the synergies between Lowe wines and Japanese food. “Our cold climate Nullo Mountain wines are a fantastic complement to the elegance of many [Japanese] dishes, while our Mudgee Shiraz matches the spiciness of other aspects of Japanese cuisine.” Although almost no wine can take the edge off a very spicy dish, the Thirst dinner was proof that it can be great fun exploring which wines work best with robustly flavoured dishes. The diversity of flavours, both in the wine and food, certainly put some spice into the evening.

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Make your guests feel at home with an in-room Foxtel iQ Accommodation package. The Alto Hotel, Melbourne, and the Shearwater Resort, Tasmania, are amongst the ﬁrst hotels to provide guests with more channels and a Foxtel iQ box in every room - an entertaining point of difference for the discerning traveller. For Gary Stickland, General Manager of the Alto Hotel Melbourne, installing Foxtel’s Accommodation Platinum package was all about customer satisfaction.

“So many people have Foxtel, there was an expectation that we would have a similar, or better, offering to what’s available in their homes.”

“We wanted to keep our guests happy by offering a full range of the Foxtel channels to cater for differing tastes, the Platinum package allows us to do this.”

The Alto is a top 10 ranked hotel on Trip Advisor, and Stickland believes superior entertainment is a key point of difference that keeps his guests coming back.

The Platinum package offers guests an iQ box in every room, and brings with it access to 112 channels. There’s everything from FOX SPORTS, to Foxtel’s awardwinning Drama and Movies, to dedicated news, lifestyle and documentary channels for guests to enjoy. Plus guests are given full control so they can pause, rewind and record live TV, just like the in-home Foxtel experience.

“We like to be ahead of the pack with entertainment, so it was important for us to install the Platinum Foxtel offering before others.” Shearwater Resort is a little bit different from the Alto, it’s a fully sold-out timeshare resort. So why did Nicholas Dodd, General Manager at the Shearwater, install a Foxtel Standard package?

“Our driver was to create the most comfortable experience for our guests”, said Mr Dodd. And, with 28 channels, and again the ability to pause, rewind and record live TV, the Standard package offers a broad and ﬂexible range of entertainment. There’s something to make every guest feel at home. “We have found it has contributed to a greater overall customer satisfaction with the hotel.” And Mr Dodd believes satisﬁed customers are loyal customers.

To give your guests a superior Foxtel experience with an Accommodation Platinum or Standard Business package, visit www.foxtel.com.au/business or call Foxtel today on 1300 306 460.

Foxtel is not available in some areas/all premises. Foxtel marks are used under licence by Foxtel Management Pty Limited.

P l a t i n u m

Par t ne r

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produceseafood

great seafood debate

The

When it comes to sourcing seafood, the industry is split. Some insist on certified sustainable species, while others prefer farmed alternatives. Brea Carter dives deeper.

Jules Crocker. Image: Joto

hile he doesn’t necessarily opt for Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certified seafood, Richard Webb is fast developing a reputation for his commitment to seafood sustainability. At his Brisbane fish and chip shop Swampdog, Webb showcases the region’s local seafood, and he definitely doesn’t serve up species that are in short supply. He features a wide variety of primarily local, alternative species on the menu such as tailor, whiting, Ray’s bream, wahoo, diamond scale mullet, Queensland school mackerel, cobia, skipjack tuna

Fish & Co’s Tom Kime. Image: Gavin Johns

and blue threadfin, and much of the menu changes according to what Webb finds at the city’s Kaptis Fish Markets each morning. Webb is actively changing the way his peers approach seafood via the Betterfish Project, an initiative that encourages Brisbane’s chefs to favour local and alternative species. “Local seafood provides both menus and customers with a point of difference. Chefs will be buying better, fresher and more interesting seafood that reflects where they live,” Webb says. “They’ll be connecting the customers with the produce and enriching their dining experience - chefs, their staff and customers will all get a side order of warm, inner glow.” He acknowledges it’s not easy for chefs to source alternative species, arguing they have access to only a small selection of fish each day. “Wholesalers that supply restaurants don’t stock a large range of fish, they only stock what chefs buy and they won’t take risks on fish they are not confident in selling. “In Brisbane let’s say the standard list is about five or six, sometimes it is as Chermoula marinated fish with crisp fennel salad. Image: Fish & Co.

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small as two, sometimes if you are lucky it is as big as eight. What I know is that on any given day in my city there is about 60 species of fish available,” he says. Webb takes chefs to the fish markets and introduces them to wholesalers that offer species other than those on the standard list. “I don’t tell chefs that I want them to use a fish that is more sustainable, all I am doing is giving them the option to do so by showing them the range of fish they have to choose from. “I illustrate to them there is not five fish, there is 50 or 60 they could have on their menu – I equip them with the tools to make those choices,” he explains. Sustainable seafood pioneer Tom Kime owns and operates Fish & Co, the first independent restaurant in NSW to have a full multi-species chain of custody with the MSC. His Sydney eatery features nine MSC certified species on the menu, along with a number of alternative species. “I don’t use farmed fish, I use wild caught fish from sustainable sources and a lot of alternative species,” Kime says. “There are a number of fish I use that don’t have MSC certification; however, they come from more sustainable sources, such as leather jacket, sardines, blue mackerel, gurnard and latchet, and I use bonito as opposed to tuna. »

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A terrine of smoked salmon, crème fraiche, crab and coriander. Image: Doltone House group.

“These are all fish that are more wide- lunch box,” he explains. ly available; they have a high biomass, Kime cites two key examples are not commercially overused and if you of affordable, accessible species go to the fish markets you will find they he uses at Fish & Co. “Northern Group executive chef, are also much cheaper than other fish be- Prawn Fishery prawns are availJames Kidman. Image: cause there are more of them.” able in Coles and Woolworths Doltone House Group Kime is out to turn traditional views they are not an expensive product of sustainable seafood on their head. In but a highly regarded, environmenparticular, he stresses buying sustainably tally aware and ethical one. doesn’t have to be expensive, and in many “Hoki is a fish we use for our fish and cases it’s easy to do. chips at Fish & Co. It is a product that “For me, sustainable seafood is not can be frozen and it is widely available but something that has to be posh or high again, it has an ethical, responsible and brow, it is about everyday seafood choic- ecologically sound grounding,” he says. es. It comes right down to the type of While he does strive to feature local H O tuna 0 9 1you 3 _have 0 0 in 0 _ N I children’s C 1 seafood 2 0 1 on 3 -the0 menu 8 - 2at8Fish T 0&9Co, : 1Kime 5 : 5 7 + 1 0 : 0 0 tinned your

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explains many imported seafood varieties are sustainable. “We use [MSC certified] wild caught Alaskan salmon that comes from a fishery where they only use 50 percent of the stock that is available. They allow the other 50 percent of the salmon to spawn, so they are essentially under-fishing their stock, which is a very sustainable way of managing it.” Kime has a similar view to Webb in that he believes chefs feature the same species of fish on their menus again and again - a practice that needs to change. “Snapper, barramundi, farmed salmon, tuna and prawns are very familiar on menus and they are often what people recognise as the fish they should be eating or buying, when [really] they are the ones that are most under threat.” While group executive chef at Doltone House Group, James Kidman, believes sourcing sustainable seafood is hugely important in foodservice, he says his venues primarily use farmed fish. “In essence probably 95 percent of our seafood product is farmed - whether that be Atlantic salmon, Tasmanian ocean trout or barramundi.

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“For the most part that comes down to an availability issue, especially when we are doing large functions. We need to know we can secure an ingredient when we need it and in reality the pricing of farmed fish is consistent.” Pricing tends to dictate what is on the menu at the Doltone House Group, particularly because functions of between 300 and 400 people are the norm. “We couldn’t put on a fresh John Dory fillet, for example, because the price is too high and it fluctuates greatly because supply is so short,” Kidman explains. At the group’s restaurant Signorelli Gastronomia, however, chefs have much more flexibiility with their fish of the day offering. “We have an ongoing relationship with one of our fishmongers and we try to get something super fresh that’s in season. Invariably the type of fish we use is from around the NSW coast - whether it be South Coast tuna, swordfish or miradora caught far off the coast, or occasionally if we can afford it we will source some locally caught snapper either from Newcastle or down near Wollongong.” Kidman has noticed less traditional species popping up on menus, and he believes a growing interest in sustainable seafood is driving the trend. “Other species are coming to the fore - you see things like leather jacket and skate, which might be a by-catch of another product on menus, which has opened up these other species to be looked at by the general public.” The seafood Kidman features on his menus will be dictated by the function, and is typically sourced from various locations across the country. “We use salmon from Tasmania, barramundi from the Northern Territory, prawns from northern NSW and there is some locally produced murray cod coming out of the Southern Highlands now which is fantastic, and you have silver perch being grown in North Western NSW.” Kidman says smaller venues can more easily commit to sustainable seafood, however all-in-all he believes most restaurants use farmed fish. “You can say ‘yes, I put this particular fish on the menu,’ but I think if you looked at most restaurants you would see menu item fish are farmed, and then you would invariably find a fish special that is representative of what’s best in the market on that day,” he says. In order to serve up top quality seafood, whether it be sustainably sourced or not, chefs need to have close working relationships with their suppliers.

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Jules Crocker, the founder of Sydneybased seafood distribution business Joto Fresh Fish understands the sustainability issue but says many chefs prefer species that aren’t necessarily bred or sourced in a sustainable manner. “Frankly there is still demand from the foodservice and retail industries for products that would be considered overfished or subject to overfishing, or for those that could be considered to have negative ecological or social impacts ... The demand is species specific and price related,” he says. Crocker acknowledges people’s interpretation of sustainability can vary, and has subsequently developed his own definition for the business. “When talking in the context of fisheries, we define sustainability as ‘the interaction with a fishery in a way that ensures the availability of the resource for future generations.’” He believes sustainable seafood programs are effective but have their pros and cons. “The Marine Stewardship Council, Friend of the Sea and Best Aquaculture Practices Seafood Certification programs are robust; however, they have no funding for marketing and their programs are prohibitively expensive or inaccessible to small scale fisheries in Australia. “We source MSC and Friend of the Sea products from Australia and abroad. Apart from certified sustainable seafood, we source a large range of seafood which we consider sustainable and we are currently working on a framework to endorse fisheries ourselves through our own audit process,” says Crocker. Joto sources MSC species such as Clearwater Canadian scallops, Argentinean scallops, Norwegian Prawn cone slider. cod and Alaskan Image: Swampdog. Salmon, along with Spencer Gulf prawns, NPF banana prawns, Kinkawooka and Spring Bay mussels and Cloudy Bay Diamond Shell clams. Crocker is passionate about sourcing sustainable seafood, and he’s proud to say the business has recently achieved the MSC Chain of Custody. “We see opportunity in the space and are about to launch a retail business with a sustainability focus,” he says.

About Us

“Frankly there is still demand from the foodservice and retail industries for products that would be considered overfished or subject to overfishing.”

The Foodservice Industry Association is a non-profit organisation formed in 1985 to organise and manage Hospitality and Catering Expos throughout regional NSW. The events provide an opportunity for members and non-members to promote their products and services to all sectors of the foodservice and associated industries. By specialising in high value exhibitions for both participants and visitors alike, The Foodservice Industry Association has established itself as the leader in the regional Foodservice & Catering Expo/ Trade Show field. The association is managed by industry professionals from our membership, with some of Australia’s leading Foodservice providers at the helm, including Sara Lee, Patties Foods, Ingham’s, Ready Bake, Murray Goulburn and Peerless Foods, just to name a few.

Vision Statement The Foodservice Industry Association is committed to the ongoing growth and development of the industry and our members by continuing to deliver high quality, high value trade shows and exhibitions throughout regional NSW. These expos and trade shows give a broad range of industry users the opportunity to meet and compare and discuss the latest trends in the Food Services Industry. By specialising in high value exhibitions for both participants and visitors alike, The FIA – NSW has established itself as the leader in the regional Expo/Trade Show field

Upcoming shows NOVEMBER 19th - 20th Tuesday - 2pm to 7pm Wednesday - 10am to 4pm COFFS HARBOUR-Coffs Harbour, Race course, Howard street,Coffs Harbour 2450

For any enquiries please contact Melinda Snow Foodservice Industry Association NSW Inc

PO Box 4062, BAY VILLAGE NSW 2261 Tel: 02 43341114 Fax: 02 43341114 Mob: 0422 087 488 melinda@foodservice.org.au

www.foodservice.org.au

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Lamb tales With Spring now upon us, chefs are warming up to lesser-used, cost effective cuts of lamb. Alexandra E. Petri reports.

t’s that time of the year again, when spring lamb hops back onto restaurant menus, much to the delight of the diners, who are keen to throw off their ugg boots and enjoy what restaurants have to offer at this beautiful time of year. According to popular Sydney chef Colin Fassnidge, lamb and Spring go hand-in-hand. “It’s like how Christmas time in Ireland means turkey,” says the Dublin-born chef and restaurateur, who heads up Paddington’s Four In Hand restaurant and 4Fourteen in Surry Hills. “Lamb is synonymous with Spring, and I suppose also with that idea of new life,” he said. Though lamb is served in restaurants across Australia all year round, Spring lamb is a completely different offering thanks to its colouring, which should be nice and light pink, says James Madden, executive director of Flinders Island Meat in Tasmania.

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James Madden. Image: Flinders Island

“Spring lamb is young lamb ... which is about five months to seven months old. Most farmers time the mating of their ewes so that their lambs will be growing during Spring – this is the time of the year when the grass is growing the fastest and is the most nutritious, which gives the young lambs every chance to survive and grow.” Flinders Island Meat, which produces a special milk-fed lamb used by chefs around the country, won the From the Paddock category at this year’s ABC Delicious Magazine Produce Awards. “[Milk-fed lamb] is the lamb equivalent of say suckling pig. We take the lamb … that is still drinking the mother’s milk and process it then, and the resulting product is pretty awesome I’d have to say,” Madden said. Among the many chefs who buy Madden’s meat is Fassnidge, who buys whole lambs from Flinders Island and

butchers them himself. “We make a dish out of the entire lamb, like a nose to tail dish,” Fassnidge says. “We braise the shoulders, we roast the legs, we confit the belly, we use the tongues – we use everything.” Fassnidge says he has been butchering lambs for nearly 10 years. Economically, buying the whole lamb is much cheaper than buying cuts from a butcher. In addition, Fassnidge says butchering his own lambs allows for more effective portion control. “I also find it quite therapeutic as well,” he adds. And while many chefs would prefer to leave the butchering to someone else, there is a growing community determined to get their hands dirty. David Roberts is the head chef of Melbourne’s MoVida restaurant, and also purchases whole milk-fed lambs from Flinders Island to butcher himself. Roberts, who has been working at MoVida for nearly nine years, says pur-

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Rump Fattoush. Image: MLA

chasing a whole milk-fed lamb, which usually weighs about 10 kilos, costs him $140, or $10 per kilo. Compare that to purchasing rump cuts from a butcher that can cost almost $19 to $20 per kilo, and buying a whole carcass to butcher himself represents serious savings. “It’s a cheaper way to use the animal, and you’re passing on knowledge to your staff in the process,” he says. “You can use the bones in stocks and sauces, and it brings it all together and I think your profit margin can be greatly increased.”

Cost cuts deep Chefs insists price remains a serious obstacle when it comes to working with lamb, with costs dictating which type of cuts are being plated up. “When I first started working at MoVida, lamb cutlets were around 70 cents per piece, and now they’re up to more than $1.30 to $1.40 per piece,” Roberts says. “More people are going back to a leg of lamb. They’re looking

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at the price of lamb in terms of cutlets, and the price of prime cuts has jumped through the roof, so they’re looking at the cheaper cuts – the neck, ribs and belly.” Claire Tindale of Meat and Livestock Australia echoes Roberts’ observations, saying that chefs are focusing on using secondary cuts because of their profit making potential. “More chefs are embracing secondary cuts like the leg, the neck and the forequarter. Food costs are something they need to balance, together with the competitive nature of the industry, they have to look at where they can reduce their costs,” she says. “They are looking at these non-loin cuts because these are the more economical cuts.” Shoulder seems to be the trendiest cut in restaurants across Australia at the moment, Tindale says, and lamb producer Madden concurs. Lamb shoulder favours long, slow cooking, which is the method Fassnidge uses at Four in Hand.

12 hour braised lamb shoulder with colcannon, seasonal vegetables and rosemary jus. Image: Four in Hand

“Lamb is synonymous with Spring, and I suppose also with that idea of new life.”

“Right now, [shoulder] is really cost-effective, and that’s the key. We know that lamb is Australians’ favourite protein – they love it. Chefs know that in order for them to be able to afford to keep it on the menu, they really [need] to be looking at these other cuts,” he said. Yet not all chefs are familiar with these secondary cuts, Tindale says, which is a bonus for chefs like Fassnidge and Roberts who use the opportunity to showcase and highlight their skill and creativity by plating up fine dining dishes from secondary cuts. “One of the things we encourage chefs to remind themselves of is that they have an amazing talent to make dishes with a combination of ingredients. By using these non-loin cuts, they really get to show their technical skills, because not everyone can use these cuts. Some people don’t have good experience or good knowledge of how to make the most of them,” she said.

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Shimmers

shines

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hot and whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not when it comes to glassware? Danielle Bowling gets some insight on the latest tabletop trends.

Retro-style glassware is making a comeback: Image: Crown Commercial 20

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he hospitality industry, perhaps more than most, is at the mercy of consumer trends. Whether it’s a particular cuisine, a style of eating (small plates anyone?) or even an ingredient, chefs and venue managers have to constantly be on the ball, aware of what’s hot and what’s not when it comes to diner delights. But food isn’t the only fickle element on tabletops today. The vessels that carry our food and wine are also subject to changes in fashion and flair, and in regards to glassware, it’s a case of old is new again, with retro designs making a comeback.

Retro revival Sandy Donnison, Queensland state manager at Phillip Lazarus, says both diners and restaurateurs are less concerned about elegant tabletops with perfectly matched tableware and glassware, adding that retro, quirky items such as those in Phillip Lazarus’ Wichester and Speakeasy ranges are part of the industry’s return to the “vintage, art deco era.” “I think that if you mix this type of glassware in with the way we’re doing food thesedays - where you sit at a restaurant and you order one plate and I’ll have a different plate nothing really matches on the table anymore. And the glassware has got to go along with that as well. I think you subconsciously feel that everything’s more personal that way,” she says. Tim Russell, sales manager at Crown Commercial, another commercial glassware supplier to the hospitality industry, agrees. “Retro styling has been a growing trend. It started with a few individuals searching markets and old wares shops for interesting, original, old glassware to serve their cocktails in and to give an edgy style to their venue,” he says. In regards to shape however, Russell says most people are opting for more traditional styles. “We’re finding most of our clients steer towards the classic [style] - a nottoo-long stem, so the glass fits into the dishwasher, with a nicely rounded belly and a cut rim. There’s still a big pub/ hotel market for rolled rims, but thesedays the cut edge, which has a more upmarket look ... is appearing on glassware that’s still very reasonably priced.”

No stem to stand on Russell and Donnison also agree that the stemless trend is a long way from subsiding, especially considering how versatile this style of glassware is. Donnison tells Hospitality magazine, “I don’t think that trend’s disappearing at all. It’s quirky for some people. If you’ve traditionally had stemware, you look at it [stemless glassware] and you think it’s quirky. Plus you get a double use out of it. You don’t have to have all your money tied up in 20 different lines for your menu. You can use stemless glasses for a savoury entree, for water, for candles or for wine.” James Sexton, restaurant manager at Sydney’s Oscillate Wildly restaurant, is less convinced of stemless glassware’s popularity, arguing that the trend is done and dusted. “I think there’s finally been a move away from stemless glasses. I think that was a bad fad. In my opinion, they make great water glasses and I guess in the small wine bars they can be great, but I’m starting to see them less and less,” he says. While they might be quirky, Sexton says stemless glasses aren’t the best choice for showing off top-notch wines. “If you’re talking about white wine and stemless glasses in terms of temperature control I don’t think they’re really appropriate. You handle the glassware and warm it up. And then at the same time you’re trying to look at wine, and if you’re handling the bowl of the glass and you’re eating at the same time you’re getting greasy finger prints on them, and I think the overall look just isn’t that great,” says Sexton.

“You can use stemless glasses for a savoury entree, for water, for candles or for wine.”

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Matching glass with grape What does, however, help to show off a wine’s characteristics, Sexton says, are glasses designed specifically for different varietals. Because Oscillate Wildly’s standard offering is a degustation dinner, Sexton often has to select one glass that best compliments each of the wines matched to the meal’s eight courses, but wherever possible, he likes to match not only food with wine, but wine with glassware too. With the main dining room seating up to 30 people, space is an issue at the restaurant, so Sexton is unable to have as extensive a range of glassware as he might

03 9329 1877

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like. There’s still quite an impressive collection though, including standard white and red glasses, a burgundy glass for Pinots and Nebiolos, Champagne flutes, dessert tulips and a Montrachet for fullerbodied Chardonnays. “The idea is that you get the best out of the wines aromatically by giving more delicate grape varietals greater surface area, so they show off more fruit aromatics and vice versa - really aromatic wines channelling in the fruit aromatics to make them more subtle. The results of this style of glassware are quite profound,” he says. “Once you start using burgundy glasses, for Pinot especially, it’s hard to go back. It really brings the best out of the wine.” And it’s not just wines enjoying their own special glassware styles. Sandy Donnison from Phillip Lazarus says the same theory applies to different types of beer. “You’ve got to have a different style of glass to suit different types of beer,” she says. “That’s huge at the moment. So many different types of microbreweries have sprung up, so we’ve got to cover a million different types of glasses and have glasses to suit all these different

beers, like wheat beer, the pale beer and all these different brews being done now. “Libbey [a Phillip Lazarus range] has come out with nearly a dozen different stems of pilsners or tumblers to be appropriate for the different types of brews,” she says. The company has also developed a glass that resembles a beer can, which, according to Donnison is best served with craft beers, ciders or other canned beverages, allowing the consumer to pour the canned drink into the glass while still holding onto the look and feel of the can.

Breaking bad While perhaps not a new trend, venue operators are still on the hunt for glassware that’s both cost effective and resilient. Glass breakages in foodservice venues are unavoidable and need to be accounted for, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t sturdy (and stylish) glassware lines available. “There’s certainly more call from venues for toughened glass, because people recognise products with this advantage can positively impact their replacement costs, OH&S and patron damage

How to avoid costly breakages

1. Never stack glassware and avoid glasses coming into contact with each other 2. Choose rim-toughened or fully-toughened glassware 3. Avoid thermal shock - allow glasses to stand at room temperature before used them or placing them in a hot dishwasher 4. When cleaning and polishing, be aware that stemware can be more prone to breakages, so carefully manipulate the bowl and stem to avoid twisting off the bowl from the stem. The best technique is to rotate and polish.

hospitality | September 2013

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Image:Thinkstock

Here are some tips from Crown Commercial on how to reduce glassware breakages in your foodservice business.

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issues,” Tim Russell from Crown Commercial tells Hospitality. Part of Crown Commercial’s Crown Glassware collection, the Atlas stemware is four to six times stronger than regular glass, and is also shock- and heat-resistant. Its Luigi Bormioli range has a number of glassware-toughening formulations aimed at boosting the strength and durability of the glasses while still keeping them as elegant and lightweight as possible: • The SON.hyx technology is an ultra-clear, lead-free crystal with a 30 percent higher resistance to breakages. It also boasts a shelf life of more than 4,000 commercial dishwashing cycles. • The Sparkx formulation has a 30 percent increased resistance to mechanical shocks, contains no heavy metals and produces particularly transparent glassware that can withstand more than 2,000 rounds in a commercial dishwasher. • Titanium Reinforcement technology uses invisible molecules of Titanium to reinforce the stems. When combined with SON.hyx it provides a 140 H 0 9 3 _ PH 2 1 P2 3 -1 0 9 -1 0 5 AO D_ H1 OS P0 H I0 0 F_ EB _ I1 _ 3 percent . p -d fincrease a 0 g eresistance 3 to /stem 0 T 1 in 1

“Once you start using burgundy glasses, for Pinot especially, it’s hard to go back. It really brings the best out of the wine.”

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Operators are looking for durable yet stylish glassware. Image: Phillip Lazarus

breakage while also reducing abrasions, chips and stem twist damage. Phillip Lazarus also offers a number of ‘Duratuff’ glassware ranges including Winchester, Elan, Endeavor and Gibraltar, which are not only durable but are also suitable for fine dining establishments thanks to their crystal-like appearance. “I’m sure [operators] would love to use heavy-cut crystal, but it clouds in the dishwasher, so ranges like the Win1 0 2 :1 0 + 0 / chester 1 :3 1 , become 1 1 : popular 1 1 4 0 :Abecause M0 they’re

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Duratuff and won’t cloud. They’ve got strength in them but all polished up you get the impression of crystal on your table,” Donnison said. She sums it all up nicely when explaining what venue operators (and therefore suppliers) are looking for in their tabletop adornments. “We’re trying to give a good mix. We want it to have the right look and contribute to the ambience, but it also has to be a work horse that’ll stand up to wear and tear.”

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Orange Peel Method: Method: -Chill longdrink glass with ice cubes. -Chillall longdrink glass with ice -Put ingredients except thecubes. Tonic and the absinth in mixing glass. Method: -Putitall ingredients except thecubes. Tonic and the absinth in mixing glass. -Fill with ice cubes and -Chill longdrink glass withstir. ice -Fill it with ice cubes and stir. -Discard the ice in the chilled with Absinth. -Put all ingredients except theglass Tonicand andcoat the it absinth in mixing glass. -Discard the ice in the chilled glass and coat it with -Strain into with fresh ice cubes longdrink glass andAbsinth. top up with tonic. -Fill it with ice cubes and stir. -Strain into with fresh ice cubes longdrink glass and top up with tonic. -Discard the ice in the chilled glass and coat it with Absinth. -Strain into with fresh ice cubes longdrink glass and top up with tonic.

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hospitality | September 2013

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It’s time to upskill There’s more to a successful hospitality business than great food and a funky design. At the end of the day it comes down to people power. Ken Burgin has 11 tips on how you can be your business’ best asset.

he industry is changing fast, and there are many new skills you should add to your toolkit. Don’t be intimidated: you still need to be good at planning, ordering and cooking, but there’s an extra list to put you ahead of the pack.

Image: Thinkstock

1. Improve your computer skills Excel spreadsheets are great for costing recipes, checking menu profits and organising the stocktake. Learn how to interpret the reports from a Point of Sale system. Keep your recipes on a modern software system like the Profitable Recipe Manager, and make use of the ‘always on’ capacity of an iPad and its many useful apps.

2. Become a power user with modern equipment Combi-ovens, blast chillers, temperature tracking and waste tracking – most equipment now has technology controls equal to a computer. And they all have the manuals online – why not become the person who knows how to use them to full capacity?

3. Learn how a business works Not just menu costing, but how food and labour costs fit into the total profit picture. Your work is a central part of the P&L statement, so make sure you understand what it means. If you’re given a budget, make sure it’s explained to you. Ask for the food cost percentages to be prepared weekly, and make friends with the bookkeeper.

4. Learn about menu marketing The real skill is creating a menu that not only looks and tastes good, but also maximises profitability through ingredient choice, layout and pricing. Keep a portfolio of your own work and other menus you admire. Learn about the ‘art and science’ of menu design, and how to create something that looks good in a Word document.

5. Develop a range of flavoursome, healthy recipes Create dishes that don’t rely on huge amounts of sugar, fat and salt. As the world gets fatter and health standards

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decline, there are enormous numbers of people needing diabetic, low-sodium and low-fat diets. They just don’t want it to taste like prison food!

6. Build your dessert skills It’s the other side to the ‘healthy food’ trend - wicked treats that help people relax in a stressful world. Chocolate, ice cream, mousses and cakes are all part of the sweetness of modern hospitality. Many chefs just don’t have enough experience in this area, and there are plenty of easy ways to create delicious items that have a high profit margin.

7. Become a food safety expert Food safety plans, HACCP and tighter OH&S rules are a well-established part of modern catering, so build up your skills with short courses and reading. Some of them can be completed online, and there are dozens of useful apps for your phone or iPad.

8. Understand how to manage utility costs Implement energy and water saving measures to reduce costs. This can apply to kitchen equipment, equipment washing, use of chemicals, use of hot water, use of ventilation etc.

9. Be clever at training waiters You know how it is - when the front-ofhouse staff love the special, they sell it to

everyone. Most waiters don’t know enough about ingredients, product origins, flavours and cooking methods. The more you teach them, the more they will look after you.

Ken Burgin

10. Develop your people skills When you’re in charge of a team, your leadership ability can make the difference between over-stressed or undercontrol. Build your skills and experience with teamwork, personality types, anger-management, negotiation and delegation. Watch how effective leaders operate and ask for their ‘secrets’. Modern kitchens are like the United Nations, you need the ability to work with everyone: Mexican or Irish, Filipino or Indonesian, French or Italian, younger or older, gay or straight, male or female.

“Modern kitchens are like the United Nations, you need the ability to work with everyone.”

11. Learn how to talk to the boss This is sometimes called ‘managing upwards.’ Work out the best way to make your case with senior management when you need more equipment, staff changes, different work hours or even a raise. Make an appointment, prepare some written notes, be ready to talk about the financial side and sell the ‘benefits’ of your request. There you have it. You’re now ready to apply for a better job in a high-quality organisation – congratulations!

hospitality | September 2013

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Who mastered dining’s demise? Some of today’s struggling foodservice businesses need to look in the mirror when asking how things came to be, writes Tony Berry.

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widespread appeal, restaurants at all levels would have gone out of existence years ago rather than proliferating in the way that has occurred. There is a tsunami of advice and inspiration available in bookshops, the daily press, magazines and on the television sufficient to earn every household at least one Michelin star if they so desired. But they don’t: we are voyeurs, not doers. MasterChef is designed primarily as entertainment. It may be good for picking up the occasional useful tip but there’s no way it is going to turn back the way we now cook and eat at home and away. Fine dining is simply losing its appeal. It does not dovetail with how the majority of us eat, live and socialise. The grand and formal occasion is maybe all right once in a while but it is something predominantly beloved of an ageing and diminishing demographic. And even when we do go formal, we seem unable to conform to its requirements much beyond the entrees. Anyone who has been to a slap-up wedding or similar knees-up of late will know how soon the jackets and heels come off and things start to fall apart. Similarly with the tasting or degustation menu. It is a poor fit with the universal move to sharing plates, tapas, grazing and the like. That, after all, was what having a meal was originally all about – and still is in many parts of the world. Restaurants are faced with a new breed of diner, one which has spent its life eating meals off a tray in front of a TV. They slouch, laze and lounge as they eat rather than sitting upright at the table in high-backed chairs. To sit diligently waiting between courses as they wade through 10, 12 or even more mini dishes is intolerable torture to this generation. Similarly, they are too restive and too casual to

Tony Berry

“Fine dining is simply losing its appeal. It does not dovetail with how the majority of us eat, live and socialise.”

abide the strictures imposed by fine dining or a multitude of courses. Nor do they have the background, the motivation, the desire or the lifestyle that is likely to transform them into stay-at-home cooks who will pose a threat to the professionals out there on our high streets. The fault lies within the industry itself. Far too often it tries to foist its ideas on to the public rather than giving the public what it wants. One news report contained the unbelievable information that 1,500 (really?) restaurants have closed down in Victoria in the past year. If this is so, it is not the fault of the public but of those who set up shop without first studying their market. As for those big names which are purportedly in deep financial trouble, there is little point in them blaming anyone but themselves. The industry seems beset with “operators” rather than restaurateurs. They are empire builders rather than providers of hospitality. Expansion is their creed. Rather than establishing a solid single base upon which they build a reputation for excellence, there is this almost uncontrollable urge to add outlets, to diversify, to dominate. They give priority to setting and surroundings rather than the actual product. Their outfitting costs are clearly out of proportion to the revenues likely to be achieved - and it doesn’t take a degree in accountancy to see that this is glaringly so. Change is definitely afoot. The top end of the market is sure to shrink; excess is doomed to diminish. The true chefs consistently speak of purity of product and simplicity of cooking – but it is a message too many are ignoring to their own and the industry’s detriment. Maybe a boiled egg a la Heston is the answer, even if Delia did it so much better several decades ago.

hospitality | September 2013

Image: Thinkstock

here is something quite bizarre about the Australian media being awash with advice on how to cook the perfect boiled egg from a chef who has achieved global fame for the complexity of his culinary creations. This unwarranted exposure could well be attributed to any of several factors. Maybe there was a national glut of slow news days. Perhaps it was due to the syndicated follow-the-leader nature of today’s monopolistic media. Or, just as likely, it was another example of the fawning nature we adopt whenever a so-called celebrity deigns to bless us with their presence. It therefore came as no surprise to find that the boiled egg chef so famous that he is known by only a single name was here primarily for appearances on that seemingly endless piece of televised razzmatazz known as MasterChef. Looming in the background wherever he went was the overpowering presence of a publicity steamroller that seems able to command column inches and air time far in excess of the show’s true worth. Coincidentally, while this culinary alchemist was bringing things down to the most basic level, the industry was awash with dire predictions for the demise of those who are disciples of the path he follows. Fine dining and all it embraces is seemingly well and truly on the rocks … yet again. And marooned along with it is that other love-it-or-hate-it dining phenomenon, the tasting menu. Adding one more confusing ingredient to this mix of bankruptcies, defaults and closures was the suggestion from some commentators that all the blame rested with MasterChef. It has apparently so encouraged home cooks that no one is dining out anymore; fine dining is to be found at home – and at far less cost than in any upmarket eating house. Tosh! If domestic cookery has such

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4 1. Vodka brand introduces new flavours Smirnoff has introduced two new vodka flavours to the Australian market – honey and coconut. This marks the first time the flavours have entered the local market on a large scale, with Diageo Australia developing the honey variety in response to the trend towards flavoured beverages. They are available in three different formats including full strength bottles (ABV 37.5 percent), ready to drink (ABV nine percent) and ready to serve (ABV five percent). See www.smirnoff.com

2. New tortillas add versatility to any menu Culinary Select’s neutral flavoured flour tortillas from Simplot Australia can be used to create a range of sweet and savoury dishes at breakfast, lunch and dinner including wraps, quesadillas, crepes and pizzas. While they are soft and pliable, the tortillas

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have undergone rigorous testing to ensure they don’t tear when used, can be frozen and are fresh when thawed, even after weeks in the freezer. The tortillas are said to contain less fat, sodium and sugar than their competitors and are available in 10” and 12” sizes. Visit www.simplotfoods.com.au

3. Coffee cups get creative Environmentally responsible packaging company Biopak has teamed up with six Australian artists to deliver the Biocup Art Series. Artists renowned for exploring environmental themes in their work were selected to take part in the series, including Jessica Bee, Mark Gerada and Annie Everingham. Each of the six designs takes their inspiration from the natural environment and the cups are certified carbon neutral. Cups in the limited edition range are available in two sizes: 8oz and 12oz. Head to www.biopak.com.au

6 4. Biodegradable baking trays The new range of vegetable parchment baking trays from Confoil features seven trays of varying sizes. They are biodegradable and compostable, and are made from 100 percent fibres. The trays are freezer and microwave safe and they can withstand oven temperatures of up to 230 degrees celsius, making them ideal for use across a variety of foodservice settings. They are oil and moisture proof and a siliconised coating ensures food products are removed from the trays without damage. Head to www.confoil.com.au

5. Tasty chicken tenders Inghams has added three new varieties to its chicken tenders range – gluten-free, peri peri and panko. Each new product contains 100 percent Australian chicken and they can be frozen and then deep fried or oven baked. The gluten-free chicken tenders feature a crumb coating that

does not contain gluten, allowing business owners to cater for patrons with food intolerances. The tenders can be used in wraps, rolls, salads or as a snack at cafes, pubs and clubs, bistros, hotels, canteens and at functions or special events. Visit www.inghams.com.au

6. Satay sauce without the nuts Diners with nut allergies will soon be able to enjoy dishes that contain satay sauce as the new nut-free satay sauce from Australian Vegie Gourmet enters the market. The soy-based sauce contains canola oil, milk ingredients and a special blend of spices which, when combined, mirrors the taste of nut-based satay sauce varieties. The sauce is suitable for use across a range of settings including commercial kitchens and hospitals, aged care institutions and pre-schools and it has a refrigerated shelf life of between two and three months. Visit www.vegiegourmet.com.au

hospitality | September 2013

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hospitalitydiary OCTOBER 1-31 Good Food Month, Sydney. This new expanded food event from Fairfax Media is an extension of the previous Sydney-based festival. Starting in October in Sydney, Canberra and Brisbane, it then heads to Melbourne and regional Victoria in November. Highlights of this year’s event include the visit of some of the world’s most acclaimed and innovative chefs including Rene Redzepi and Alex Atala. See www.goodfoodmonth.com 23rd, 10am, Mobile Marketing Essentials webinar More than 50 percent of web traffic for the foodservice industry comes from smartphones or tablets, and the percentage is even higher for social media sites like Facebook. This webinar will show you how to take advantage of this shift in online customer activity. Head to https://www3.gotomeeting.com/ register/318894638 25th, 10am, Kitchen Cost Control webinar This webinar will proivde insight into smart techniques for recipe costing, purchasing and stock control, waste reduction and profit

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planning. If you want to cut costs, boost efficiency and improve profits then take part in this free one hour webinar, presented by Ken Burgin from Profitable Hospitality and Hospitality magazine. Head to https://www3.gotomeeting. com/register/173176094 28 Savour National Awards for Excellence; Royal Randwick, Sydney. Who will be named this year’s national Restaurant of the Year at the annual industry awards from Restaurant & Catering Australia recognising Australia’s best foodservice operators? It’s the culmination of a year of state metropolitan and regional awards. See www.restaurantcater.asn.au

NOVEMBER 11-30, Peter’s Best at est. Sydney This November, est. is celebrating Peter Doyle’s impressive career and influence on Australian cuisine with a special ‘Peter’s Best at est.’ tasting menu, featuring a selection of his favourite dishes from the past 40 years. Bookings: 9240 3000 See http://merivale.com.au/est

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hospitality | September 2013

P R O D U C T S

est.’s Peter Doyle Image: Merivale

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Shot on location in Williamstown, VIC. Thank you to The Strand Restaurant.

Lotic Find this and other ranges designed specifically for the hospitality industry at www.maxwellandwilliamshospitality.com.au