Hospitality Magazine October 2014 by Hospitality Magazine

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2014-09-19T10:06:52+10:00

Print Post Approved PP100007268

No.709 October 2014

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

foodservice

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accommodation

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beverage

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management

LET’S GET SMOKING American barbecue – how to get it right

MANAGING FEEDBACK Creating conversations with your diners

PLUS:

14 wine myths debunked

SHADES

Sepia of

Q&A with Australia’s Chef of the Year

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2014-09-15T14:29:34+10:00

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14 editor’s note

Editor: Danielle Bowling danielle.bowling@ cirrusmedia.com.au

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beverage

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management

American barbecuehow to get it right

Creating conversations with your diners

PLUS:

14 wine myths debunked

SHADES

Sepia of

Q&A with Australia’s Chef of the Year

Owner and Chef at Sepia Restaurant, Martin Benn

contents FEATURES

12 Shades of Sepia 14 Let’s get smoking! American BBQ heats up in Oz.

18 Cashing in on the holidays Make the most of Xmas parties.

22 Digital dialogue Tips for managing feedback.

24 Evolution of the engine room Kitchens have changed dramatically over the years.

PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Mary Copland Ph: (02) 8484 0737 mary.copland@cirrusmedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS Ph: 1300 360 126 ONE YEAR: $132.00 incl GST TWO YEARS: $220.00 incl GST

cover

REGULARS

Q&A with the Chef of the Year.

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Rhonnie Merry Ph: (02) 8484 0642 Fax: (02) 8484 0915 rhonnie.merry@cirrusmedia.com.au

hospitality | October 2014

accommodation

MANAGING FEEDBACK

MANAGING EDITOR Danielle Bowling Ph: (02) 8484 0667 danielle.bowling@cirrusmedia.com.au

Jasmine O’Donoghue Ph: (02) 8484 0854 jasmine.odonoghue@cirrusmedia.com.au

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LET’S GET SMOKING

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Nick Cox Ph: (02) 8484 0622

Aoife Boothroyd Ph: (02) 8484 0907 aoife.boothroyd@cirrusmedia.com.au

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

foodservice

PUBLISHER Martin Sinclair martin.sinclair@cirrusmedia.com.au

JOURNALISTS Brea Carter Ph: (02) 8484 0661 brea.carter@cirrusmedia.com.au

No.709 October 2014

Print Post Approved PP100007268

hen someone criticises something you’ve put your blood, sweat and tears into, the natural reaction is ofen to bite back. Or maybe you prefer to do nothing at all, festering on the inside and putting the criticisms down to the fact that the critic must be stupid/confused/on a crazy vendetta/your mortal enemy. You might be right, but deep down you know the best way to deal with feedback is with an even temper (head to p20). A recent encounter I had with a wine bar opened my eyes to just how swiftly disgruntled diners can be turned around when they feel they’re being listened to. I was less than impressed when I found out my group of about 30 partygoers was charged $3pp corkage, despite the wine coming from the bar’s adjoining bottle shop. Not only that, beer drinkers – and even water drinkers – were also slugged! I had my Eatability rant ready to go, but I thought better of it. I took a deep breath and emailed the owner. She was in touch within 12 hours and while there had been a clerical issue with the bill, most of the BYO charges were legit. As a measure of good faith, she refunded the charge in question – but that’s not why I’ll return to her wine bar. She was swift and polite in her response, and while I still think the charges are a bit rich, I take my hat off to her professionalism. So yes, I will return, although I might take a shiraz from home next time.

News

30 Industry Observer

The latest industry news and reader comments.

Openings

Why it’s worth investing in your floor staff.

31 Ken Burgin

Some recent arrivals on the hospitality block.

10 Wine myths

Can great service really make up for terrible food?

32 Shelf Space

Don’t fall for these 14 commmon misconceptions.

28 Rant

Six new products to check out for your hospitality business.

34 Diary

Soy, skim, grass-fed ... our columnist Tony Berry asks ‘what’s in a claim?’

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Average Net Distribution Period ending Mar’ 2014 - 11,160

Make sure you add these upcoming industry events to your calendar.

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Created from quality, fresh ingredients here in Australia, Birch & Waite Professional sauces and dressings deliver an authentic flavour profile and flavour intensity. So now you can focus on crafting great dishes without compromise.

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newsonline

Maggie Beer Products reprimanded by ACCC Maggie Beer Products has accepted a court enforceable undertaking for misleading customers following an investigation by the ACCC. Beer, the founder of Maggie Beer Products, said that the investigation served as a wakeup call for her and she has urged fellow manufacturers to carefully consider each message that is sent to consumers on product labels. The incident in question involves four out of 200 products in the Maggie Beer range: extra virgin olive oil, aged red wine vinegar, rosemary and verjuice biscuits and ice cream. Each product featured the Maggie Beer logo with the text “A Barossa Family Tradition” as well as the words ‘Maggie Beer Products: 2 Keith Street Tanunda South Australia 5352’. The ACCC considered that a reasonable consumer would have gained the overall impression that each of these products was manufactured in Tanunda, the Barossa Valley or South Australia. While the products were initially made in the

LifeandLarder said: “The ACCC should worry about far more serious breaches than this minor error...”

mc said: “What about the Sydney addresses given on virtually all Australian supermarket brand products, let alone numerous other instances where a company has production facilities at various sites and has a single set of contact details?”

Barossa, as the company grew and demand rose, the company decided to outsource the manufacturing of these four product lines to third parties in Queensland and Victoria. Beer says that she has now decided to modify all labels on all 200 products in her range with added information on the state in which each product is made. “We acted immediately when the ACCC drew this to our attention. Maggie Beer customers can be 100 percent sure on the provenance of the food that we offer. I apologise to anyone who may in the past have been misled in any way,” Beer said. “It’s the last thing I would want to do.”

Out & about 5 September Masterclass filming @ Almond Bar

reader comments

yarraboy said: “‘Minor errors’? No, she made firm statements that were proved not to be true. And that is misleading, even if it was not done intentionally to mislead - which is something that will never be proved, either way. Having built up a loyal following, the least she can do is make sure products are exactly as she claims them to be. Surely that’s not too hard to do ... or too much to expect.”

Industry events the Hospitality team attended this month...

10 September Unveiling of Studio @ Sydney Tower

10 September Banquet dinner @ Ester

11 September Opening of Alpha food store

11 September Chandon Magnums @ Cafe del Mar

12 September Coffee @ Steam Engine, Chatswood

For other stories and information please visit our website: www.hospitalitymagazine.com.au 6

hospitality | October 2014

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Cookers practice what they preach

The wind tower and control board at Cookers main ofﬁce supports their energy needs and supplies excess power to the grid.

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It’s another demonstration of their commitment to sustainability.

Your commitment can be on a daily basis by using the Cookers system to save money, improve safety, and avoid tin waste going to landﬁll. So join with Cookers to implement Best Practice in your establishment.

For more information phone 1300 882 299 or visit www.cookers.com.au

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newopenings Northbridge Brewing Company

Western Australia’s latest brewery, bar and restaurant, Northbridge Brewing Company (NBC) has turned on the taps. NBC comprises the ground level Piazza Bar, the Tank Bar on level two and the rooftop Skydeck, all overlooking the city. Master brewer Ken Arrowsmith delivers four craft beers: Beerland Lager, Beerland Pale Ale, Beerland Wheat and Beerland Mild. The menu has been developed with simplicity and quality in mind and offers a range of pizzas, sandwiches and burgers. The brewery has a distinctly West Australian feel, with timber salvaged from the old Perry Lakes Stadium, recycled bricks and feature lighting, and a large wooden beam hanging over the bar sourced from the historic Art Deco Ford Factory in North Fremantle.

Owners: Beerland Brewing Head Chef: Phil Parsons Where: 44 Lake St, Northbridge P: 08 6151 6481 E: info@northbridgebrewingco.com.au W: www.northbridgebrewingco.com.au

The Hills

A colourful new Southern California-inspired bar and eatery, The Hills, has opened in Surry Hills. The Hills is the second phase of the Central Tavern hotel redevelopment and sits below the Brooklyn Social. The menu focuses on simple, no fuss tacos, salads and pizzas. The journey to Southern California doesn’t stop at the food, with half the wine list sourced from the US’ east and west coasts, and sits alongside eight US craft beers available on tap and in bottle, as well as bright and fruity cocktails. Inside The Hills, you’ll find pastel orange and blue hues, solid oak wood panels, and Malibu surfboards while the casual bench seating and palm tree landscaping spill out onto the sidewalk.

Owner: Ben May Hotels Group Where: 42 Chalmers St, Cnr of Randle St, Surry Hills P: 02 9212 3814 W: www.centraltavernsydney.com.au E: nathan@brooklynsocial.com.au

hospitality | October 2014

Munich Brauhaus

The newly opened waterfront Munich Brauhaus brings to life a traditional Bavarian bierhaus. The menu pays homage to all things pork, ranging from schnitzels, sausages, pork belly and pork knuckle to suckling pig sourced locally from Rivalea. The venue is suitable for a variety of occasions including corporate lunches, weekend dinners, simple nibbles from the deli menu or share plates in the Bier Garten. Developed by The Urban Purveyor Group, the South Wharf riverfront venue serves up biers brewed in accordance with Bavarian Brewery Laws, made with just malt, hops, yeast and water. There’s also an extensive wine and cocktail list on offer.

Owners: Urban Purveyor Group Head Chef: Ewart Wardhaugh Where: 45 South Wharf Promenade, South Wharf P: 03 9259 5600 E: munich@urbanpurveyor.com

Hill of Grace Restaurant

Adelaide Oval’s Hill of Grace Restaurant has officially opened its doors, offering a fine dining experience while showcasing the best seasonal produce and wine the state has to offer. The menu is based on a produce-driven, seasonal food philosophy with French, Asian and Australian influences and is complemented by a range of more than 160 South Australian wines, headlined by Henschke’s acclaimed range from Eden Valley and the Adelaide Hills. Stand-out dishes include tamarind and buttermilk roasted quail with pickled kohlrabi and tamarind chutney, and the Adobo pork belly with muntries, quondongs, crispy adobo and coriander.

Head Chef: Dennis Leslie Where: Audi Stadium Club, War Memorial Dr, North Adelaide P: 08 8205 4777 E: hillofgracerestaurant@adelaideoval. com.au

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THE CULINARY EXPERIENCE WITH THE LOT Fonterra is proud to give 32 talented apprentice chefs the culinary experience with the lot. Imagine mixing with Australia’s most passionate future chefs, as you share your slice of: – Master classes with Joe Grbac and Zac Nicholson. – Dairy tips from global expert, Chef Peter Wright. – 3 days all expenses paid, visiting Melbourne’s award-winning restaurants – Rockpool Bar & Grill, Saint Crispin and Spice Temple. – Your original dish photographed and published in the 2015 Fonterra Proud to be a Chef Yearbook. To top it all off, you could also be awarded an international scholarship perfecting your cooking in a country of your choice.

ENTER YOURSELF OR ENCOURAGE YOUR TALENTED APPRENTICE TO APPLY BEFORE 31 OCTOBER, 2014.* Experience more: www.fonterraproudtobeachef.com.au facebook.com/proudtobeachef

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2014-09-15T12:36:43+10:00

beverageswine

tipple tales

ith so much mystery surrounding wine, how does a sommelier recommend and deliver wine to the table without falling victim to some common fables? Here are a few examples.

1. Wine tastes better with age Just as people don’t always improve with age, wine doesn’t always age gracefully either. Most white wines are made for immediate consumption, and most reds are best drunk within about five years. Many wines can be past their prime quite quickly. Wines that do have the potential to age nicely will do so only if they have been properly cellared.

5. Red wine is best served at room temperature That may be so if room temperature is 14 to 18 degrees celsius. If the room is hotter, it might pay to cool the wine down so that you can appreciate all its flavours in full glory. Around 18 degrees is good for a full-bodied Shiraz or Cabernet; 14 degrees is recommended for a lighter or mediumbodied wine.

6. Chardonnay should be served chilled If, like me, you love Chardonnay and all its complexity, you’ll understand that many restaurants serve it far too cold.

2. Aged wines are more expensive

7. Champagne should be served chilled

Supply and demand has more bearing on the price than age. Aged wines can be very affordable if they are not in high demand. Mass-produced wines are not likely to increase in price much but a young wine produced in limited quantities can increase in price very quickly if the demand is there.

A study by the University of Reims suggests that it might be better to drink Champagne at around 18 degrees celsius as it is likely to form more bubbles.

3. Opening a bottle allows it to breathe Wine actually opens up better in the glass than it does in a bottle with a narrow neck that allows less air in. Use a decanter if you really want to aerate the wine.

4. All old wines need decanting Stop there! Put that decanter down. Decanting can sometimes improve expensive wine by opening up the tannins, but older wines can also be fragile. If a wine has reached its peak, decanting it might be just enough to tip it over the edge.

Everyone has their own opinions on wine, but sometimes they’re misguided. Christine Salins looks at some of the classic misconceptions.

hospitality | October 2014

8. Red wine has fewer kilojoules than sweet wine Not necessarily. This may be true for a rich sweet botrytised wine, but not so for a lightly sweet Moscato which actually has slightly less kilojoules than a full-bodied red. Kilojoules come from alcohol as well as sugar content, so if you’re worried about kilojoules, look at the alcohol content and steer clear of the big 14 percent numbers.

“Just as people don’t always improve with age, wine 9. The best wines are varietals doesn’t always The quality of varietal wines – wines age gracefully made from a single grape variety – can range from ordinary to excellent, just either.” as the quality of blended wines can. Some of the world’s most iconic wines, including Australia’s famous Grange, are blends.

10. Merlot is ordinary We probably have the (otherwise excellent) movie, Sideways, to thank for this one. Sales of Merlot are said to have plummeted after the movie’s release. The truth is that Petrus, one of the world’s most expensive wines, is mainly Merlot. Merlot is widely used in prestigious Bordeaux blends

11. Chardonnay is boring Tell that to a Burgundian. There’s an enormous range of Chardonnay styles on the market, some crispy and fresh, others with more complexity but beautifully balanced. In Chardonnay land, there’s something for everyone. There’s a reason why it’s the most popular white wine in the world.

12. Red wines are more serious than white wines The myth about red wine being more sophisticated has come about because many people enjoy whites when they first start drinking wine, and then progress to reds. But there are many, very fine whites and exploring their virtues can be as much fun as drinking the finest reds.

13. An impressive label speaks volumes Well … no … Never judge a book by its cover, never judge a wine by its label.

14. Wine quality is easily measured Although there are particular attributes that determine the quality of wine, the notion of quality is still subjective. We can only go by our own tastes and sensory perceptions, and that, of course, is different for everyone. And that, after all, is the beauty of wine. It’d be a boring world if we all shared the same tastes.

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chefprofile

Martin Benn embodies the true meaning of the phrase, ‘do one thing and do it well’. He spoke with Danielle Bowling about how he created what has this year been named Sydney’s best restaurant.

Shades of

Sepia

ynonyms for the word ‘sepia’ include beige, drab and dust; words that don’t do justice to the success and prestige associated with Sydney’s Sepia restaurant. Opened in 2009 by husband and wife team Martin Benn and Vicki Wild, Sepia has never been short of industry recognition, but this year has been a stand out. Benn has been named Gourmet Traveller’s Chef of the Year and Hottest Chef according to the Weekend Australian’s 50 Hot Restaurants in Australia guide. Wild earned herself the Service Excellence Award at the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide awards, where Sepia was also named Restaurant of the Year. Here Benn talks about what makes Sepia a standout in the crowded Sydney market, and his unique approach to business and cooking.

WHAT’S YOUR PHILOSOPHY AT SEPIA? This is a question I get all the time and it’s an answer we have really believed in since we opened. Restaurants are a place of enjoyment and good times; we want our guests to come and have a great experience without feeling as if it is all too formal. I always wanted the food to be fine with a lightness and freshness about it; that is what defines Australian cuisine to me. I never want to follow trends of any

hospitality | October 2014

sort and I believe that you need to find your own individuality to set you apart from every other restaurant. I’ve studied Japanese cuisine and culture over the past 14 years from my days at Tetsuya’s to now where I spend time each year in Japan to seek out new tastes and techniques that I can evolve into my own style.

WHAT IS YOUR PHILOSOPHY AS A CHEF AND A TEAM LEADER? For me, as a chef, I am constantly researching and developing ideas. Thomas Keller said recently, “We don’t call it creativity, we call it evolution. We have to constantly evolve ourselves.” This could not be more true. I find that we can work on ideas for many months with no real results and then put it down and forget about it for a while, only to pick it up months later and steer in a new direction. The most important thing I find is that food must taste delicious. Too many chefs can forfeit the way the dish looks for the way it actually tastes. Guests will always come back for flavour.

WHAT SEPARATES SEPIA FROM OTHER DINING VENUES IN SYDNEY? If we are talking about the top end of dining, I think that what really stands out is that we are all doing

something that is very different from each other; we are all individual. My focus at Sepia is based on the best quality Australian seafood, using a Japanese philosophy and also the ingredients. But it is not only the food that is the focus at Sepia. We really pride ourselves on the service that we provide. We make our guests feel as though they are old friends and that they are here for a good time. The art of a good waiter is to be able to read a table and then be able to interact with them, or not. Sometimes guests just do not want to talk to you. But there is also the skill of being able to turn a table around in the sense that they may enter the restaurant after a hard day at the office and want to take it out on the restaurant; being able to make them forget the day and leave happy is really what it is all about.

WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BIGGEST CHANGES IN THE INDUSTRY SINCE SEPIA OPENED? When we opened Sepia in 2009 we wanted to change the idea of fine dining. We were the first to remove starched white table cloths from the dining tables and we really wanted to tone down the whole ceremony that was associated with fine dining.

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chefprofile

CHARGRILLED HATCHO MISO WAGYU BEEF RUMP WITH GARLIC CHIPS, AND SEA URCHIN AND WASABI BUTTER

WOULD YOU EVER CONSIDER OPENING ANOTHER VENUE? I have certainly thought about doing another venture, but not high end. However, I have realised quickly that I’m a control freak and need to see everything all the time. I also don’t want to spread myself too thin and end up not being able to give 100 percent in my restaurants. So, that’s a no.

YOU’VE BEEN NAMED AUSTRALIA’S ‘HOTTEST’ CHEF THIS YEAR. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN TO YOU, AND WHAT CHARACTERISTICS DO YOU CONSIDER ESSENTIAL TO BE A SUCCESSFUL CHEF? It really means so much when you receive awards, and when they are so personal like Chef of the Year. I actually received two Chef of the Year awards this year and one was voted for by my peers. This was such an amazing and humbling experience for me as I never would have imagined that I could inspire so many chefs. Being awarded the Hottest Chef award is truly fantastic as it was a national award that gives recognition as an innovator in the industry. For me it’s really about making people happy with the food I cook. I suppose to be successful as a chef you need to be dedicated and devoted to food every day, not only cooking but dining as well. This is really an important part of being a chef, to understand flavour and texture, to see what other chefs are doing and to be able to learn from that. A great chef does not copy and will not confuse minimalism with simplicity. Never become dogmatic and learn from your mistakes because you will fail 99 percent of the time before you get it right.

WHAT ARE THE KEY CHALLENGES THE INDUSTRY IS FACING AT THE MOMENT? To be honest, rising staff costs are really crippling the industry, along with a shortage of skilled local chefs and waiters. We would really like to hire more Europeans that come to Australia for work but the government just makes it so difficult.

WHAT MAKES YOU PROUD TO BE IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? I am most proud of our diverseness, the sense of freedom in our food styles and our complete sense of hospitality.

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Miso-Marinated Wagyu Rump Caps 250g hatcho miso 125g saikyo miso 75g mirin 150g ichiban dashi 800g trimmed wagyu beef rump Mix the misos, mirin and ichiban dashi together until smooth. Place the rump in a large vacuum bag and coat with the miso marinade. Seal in a chamber vacuum sealer on full. Massage the miso so the meat is completely covered and refrigerate for 7–10 days.

Sea Urchin and Wasabi Butter 250g unsalted butter, softened 12g chives, chopped 12g tarragon, chopped 25g dijon mustard 30ml soy sauce 30ml mirin 90g freshly grated Tasmanian wasabi (or 60g wasabi paste) 50g sea urchin roe Place the butter in an electric mixer bowl, whisk on high until light and fluffy. Mix in, one at a time, the chives, tarragon, mustard, soy and mirin. Add the wasabi and whisk until well combined. Add the sea urchin roe and whisk for 30 seconds. Lay a 50 x 30cm sheet of foil on the bench and spoon on the wasabi and sea urchin butter. Roll the butter in the foil to create a sausage shape about 7cm thick. Refrigerate

for 12 hours until the butter sets completely. Cut eight 2cm thick slices of butter. Place the sliced butter on non-stick baking paper and refrigerate until required.

Recipe and image from Sepia, The Cuisine of the Martin Benn by Martin Benn, Murdoch Books, $75

We never wanted the whole fussiness that came with dining and we just wanted to serve up smart food that’s executed well, and that guests come back for time and time again. I feel that the whole idea of more casual dining has certainly caught on and is being done very well in Australia - we certainly embrace this.

To Serve 6 logs Japanese charcoal (binchotan) 80 fried garlic chips 16 wasabi leaves Remove the miso-marinated wagyu rump caps from the bag. Remove the excess miso and reserve. Cut the rump cap into 4 steaks. Leave to come to room temperature. Fire up the charcoal by burning it over a gas flame for 30 minutes then transfer to a hibachi (barbecue grill). Leave the hot charcoal to burn for 15 minutes, and place a grill or wire rack on top to heat. Preheat oven to 50°C. Brush the wagyu with the reserved marinade and place over the charcoal. Grill for 3-4 minutes until caramelised then turn over and grill the other side. Continue to baste occasionally. Remove the steaks, rest on a rack and keep warm. Warm the serving plates in the oven. While the beef rests, place a slice of sea urchin and wasabi butter on the plates and leave to melt slightly. Caramelise the butter under a preheated grill until golden brown. Carve the beef in half, lengthways, and then trim the sides slightly to make a strip of beef. Repeat with the other 3 steaks to make 8 strips. Place the beef next to the butter on each plate. Add the garlic chips around the beef with a few wasabi leaves. Serve immediately.

hospitality | October 2014

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barbecuemeats

Australian barbecue is undergoing an evolution, with leading chefs putting the spotlight firmly on quality meat and traditional techniques from the States. By Aoife Boothroyd.

Rupert and Ruby’s Aaron Pearce and Eli and Ruby Challenger

arbecue can translate to anything from an informal outdoor sausage sizzle, to Korean Gogigui, Argentinian Asado and Brazilian Churrasco, the main difference being the cooking time, the cuts of meat used and the type of heat applied. But the style that has taken Australia’s culinary scene by storm in recent times is the North American method of barbecue: low and slow. The North American low and slow method is steeped in tradition and varies considerably from state to state, but according to Michigan-born Dan McGuirt of Sydney’s Jazz City Milk Bar and Jazz City BBQ, there are five key components that never change. “The first one is the cuts of meat that we barbecue,” McGuirt says. “Beef ribs, pork ribs, beef brisket, pork shoulder, whole pigs, whole hogs, those are traditional cuts of meat that we barbecue – so nothing like the lamb chops and chicken skewers that you would find on an Australian barbecue. “Second is the method. American barbecue is what we call the low and slow style of cooking. Low means low temperature, so that’s about 120 degrees Celsius and for a long period of time. Brisket takes 10-12 hours, pork shoulder can take 12 hours and

hospitality | October 2014

“In the states we cook everything with charcoal or wood … the long and slow method of cooking with smoke goes back a long, long time.”

ribs can take up to five hours. “Third, we cook with a lot of smoke. There is a big smoke component to this style of cooking and we cook over charcoal, hickory, mesquite wood and pecan woods – the type and quality of the wood is very important. “The other component of American barbecue is the dry rub. So we don’t necessarily do a wet marinade, we traditionally use a dry rub on the meat before we barbecue it, and then the last component is the sauces. They can be spicy sauce, smoky sauce,

tomato-based sauce or a mustard-based sauce. In Carolina and Alabama, they do a white barbecue sauce which is made with mayonnaise. Some places serve the sauces on the meat and others put the sauce on the side, it is very region specific,” McGuirt says.

Keeping it classic McGuirt says that Jazz City BBQ is based on Southern American/Texas style barbecue featuring the likes of chopped brisket and pulled pork sandwiches, beef brisket, sausage and pork ribs – all complemented with traditional sides including potato salad, pinto beans and coleslaw. One of the core reasons that McGuirt decided to open Jazz City BBQ was to break away from the overdone clichés of American diner-style fast food, and introduce people to the traditional food of the South which is not the cheap and cheerful fare that many of us associate with North American cuisine. “You have to have quality meat, you have to have quality equipment and then you have to know how to use them to get the flavours and the textures that you’re after,” says McGuirt. “At Jazz City BBQ, we are cooking the foods that I grew up eating and cooking with recipes that my

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

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Credit: Patrina Narasri.

5. 1&4. Jazz City BBQ 2. Dan McGuirt 3. Low and slow cooking from Jazz City BBQ 5. ‘Ruby’s Skirt’ at Rupert & Ruby’s

hospitality | October 2014

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mother had that were passed onto her from her mother, so there’s very traditional flavour combinations and profiles. Whereas a lot of places here, they’re doing their interpretation of it and then putting in on the menu. Ours is more authentic, more true to what you would get in America; I think that is the big difference.” When it comes to traditional North American barbecue, McGuirt says that the right equipment is essential and that in order to replicate the Stateside offering, he needed to import a North American commercial smoker. “The smokers from the States are a lot better because they have been doing that style of cooking for a much longer period of time,” he says. “In America, you won’t see a gas grill or a gas barbecue. In the states we cook everything with charcoal or wood … the low and slow method of cooking with smoke goes back a long, long time.”

Learn from the best Dan Hong, one of the Merivale group’s executive chefs, flew over to the States to learn all about American barbecue before the opening of Papi Chulo, the group’s take on a traditional North American smokehouse, located in Sydney’s Manly. “Patrick Freisen (head chef at Papi Chulo) and I went to Nashville and Memphis to research the barbecue style there,” says Hong. “Barbecue is a whole other technique in America. It’s not just about putting something on the grill, it’s about low and slow cooking, having the right temperature of the fire and getting enough smoke into your meat. It’s really serious over there and that’s what we try and bring into our food at Papi Chulo.” In contrast to McGuirt, Hong said that he found the Australian-made smokers to be more in-line with Papi Chulo’s needs. “When we were looking for barbecues, or machines like pits to smoke with, we found one which is really convenient as it steams, roasts and smokes at the same time. “So the smoker we went with is actually made in Australia and it’s from a company called Smo-King. They make a lot of smokers for butchers who make their own sausages and smoked frankfurts and stuff like that. They make their own machines and they also import the American ones, but we thought the Australian machines were a lot better actually, and also they’re huge – we’ve got two machines and each machine can smoke around 15 briskets.” When it comes to creating American style-barbecue and Southern fare in Australia, Hong says that it’s important to benchmark what you’re cooking against traditional dishes. “A lot of these places are doing barbecue but they haven’t been to the West or the deep South in America, or any places on the barbecue belt, so they don’t really know the difference,” he says. In addition to knowledge of the cuisine and sourcing the right equipment, Hong says the quality of the produce and how chefs work it is what sets Papi Chulo apart from its competitors. “Obviously we use really good quality meat to start with, which is very important. Our pork is Kurobuta pork which is the black Berkshire sort of breed, and the beef we use is Ranges Valley Wagyu. So we start with a really good product and then it depends on which method we’re using. With the pork belly, we do it in maple syrup and black pepper which is inspired by Patrick’s Canadian roots, and then we have our own dry rubs for certain meats like the ribs and the brisket.”

Traditional American meets modern Australian Another North American native, Canadian Eli Challenger from Bondi haunt Fat Rupert’s together with the venue’s coowner, Aaron Pearce, have a vision to reinvent the traditional Australian barbecue by taking inspiration from the many different styles found in North America and marrying them with Modern Australian cuisine. The pair won the second season of IconPark – a hospitality crowdfunding competition – based on this vision and will operate Rupert and Ruby at the IconPark venue until the end of the year. “When Aussies hear the word ‘barbecue’ they think of throwing meat around on a barbie, but in the States they have million dollar competitions where people devote their whole life to it,” says Pearce. “It’s like a national sport,” adds Challenger, who says communicating the difference between North American and Australian barbecue can sometimes be difficult. “It can be a bit of an uphill struggle, but it’s not like people are unreceptive to it … You kind of explain that it’s not really like a sausage sizzle and that it’s all about smoking brisket and pork shoulder and those sorts of things. Once you explain that, people are really responsive to it – especially once you get it in front of them; they go nuts for it.” In keeping with the pair’s vision to define American/Australian barbecue, Challenger says he had to adapt a number of traditional recipes to cater to the local palate. “Over in the States, we go heavy on the corn syrup and sugar, they really love sweet barbecue in a lot of places in the States ... but I found over here, if you barbecue with less sugar and more spices, that is what people are really going for. “I think the cool thing as well is that over in the States, barbecue is so old and is so steeped in heritage – there are very specific cuts and types of meat you have to cook with and particular techniques you need to use – but because it’s so young here, a lot of chefs can play around with lamb, kangaroo and all sorts of stuff. So you can kind of define a different regional style here, which is great,” he says. Like McGuirt and Hong, Challenger says the quality of the meat is at the heart of barbecue, and is something that sets his venue apart from the sea of American-style diners in Australia. “I’m all about ethically raised and organic meat and I’m very selective. I mean you can see the difference and of course you can taste it. You can just look at two cuts and you know one is better because it has a different colour, better marbling and it tastes better,” he says. “We get some really nice beef from Inverell NSW, and the pork comes from this couple down in South Australia that have been raising Berkshire pigs for years. So you really need good quality meat, but you also need good quality wood – what you use to smoke with is really important. You could take two shoulders off the same animal, smoke one in hickory and one in apple and you’re going to have two wildly different end products.” When it comes to equipment, Challenger also went with an American smoker. “We brought our smoker over from Kansas and we actually got the first ever Yoder smoker imported into Australia. “Grillpro just took a shipment of another 32 of them from the States and they were all sold before they got here, which I guess is a testament to the growing barbecue movement,” says Pearce. “It’s only going to get bigger.”

“A lot of these places are doing barbecue but they haven’t been to the West or the deep South in America”

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

hospitality | October 2014

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Cashing in on the holidays The festive season marks a potentially lucrative time of the year for hospitality business owners, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to get it right. By Brea Carter.

Melbourneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sand Hill Road.

hospitality | October 2014

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eventplanning

Blackbird Brisbane

ot only are celebratory functions and events particularly popular at Christmas, they have sentimental value; they afford large corporations through to small groups of friends the opportunity to get together and reflect on the year that was. Venues that deliver events in line with client expectations have the potential to secure themselves loyal customers for life, meanwhile those that do the opposite are likely to be remembered for all the wrong reasons. Here, three industry experts share their tips and tricks for pulling off successful festive-themed functions.

Christmas events are changing

The Glenmore

Sand Hill Road

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Andy Mullins, co-director of Melbourne’s Sand Hill Road, which includes a portfolio of venues such as Post Office Bar Pizza, the Prahran Hotel and recently revamped Terminus Hotel, says Christmas functions have changed their framework in recent years. “The priority for people booking Christmas events at our venues used to be to get as much for their dollar as they could for as long as they could. “They would come in and have lunch and probably stay through to close, or come in at night, stay through to close and probably keep going out – that was the environment about five years ago,” he recalls. Mullins explains Christmas functions are more regulated than they once were – a reflection of companies’ attempts to guarantee the safety of their employees. “There are more Christmas functions that have a definite start and end time. They tend to be shorter in length and take place in more exclusive spaces, whereas in the past it was just ‘stick us in the beer garden and run the tab until the end of the night.’ It is more about the prestige of a certain space now.” Events are also getting smaller, which Mullins prefers. “More and more we are seeing department gatherings, and that’s more in the range of 30 to 60 people. “For us it is a lot better – instead of having one company in a space we might have five; that’s generally a good thing.” Sand Hill Road has what Mullins describes as a “non-negotiable and nonflexible” approach to RSA laws, and clients are advised to spend big on food. “It makes the night go longer when everyone is eating so we strongly encourage that there is food served at all of our

functions, and generally everyone agrees. “A spend per head of 50 or 200 people can get really expensive, so we often encourage people to put food on and then at 6pm for example, the tills are turned on and people buy their own drinks – that’s one of the ways companies control their risk,” he explains. Sand Hill Road specialises in nonformal dining, which works well considering the style of food clients tend to request at Christmas functions. “There is a trend towards dishes that don’t require plates or cutlery, so we’re getting a lot more meals broken down into something that you would normally see as a main course – the days of sausage rolls, meat pies and cocktail frankfurts have fortunately long gone,” Mullins says.

Organisation is the key Grace Likidis, the events and marketing manager at Blackbird Brisbane believes it is important all aspects of an event are organised well in advance. “Essentially, be it Christmas or otherwise, people want to be made to feel special and confident that all will go well at the event so they can relax and have fun,” she explains. “We go into a great deal of detail in the lead up to the function to ensure that at the time of the event the organiser can have a great time and not be stressed about anything.” Communication between staff members within the business is also important, as it ensures everyone is on the same page. “Even if a business doesn’t have a dedicated event coordinator it should have strong systems in place with event orders and run sheets for each event, which the clients signs off on, so that everyone who is relevant in the business knows what is happening,” she says. When it comes to the food at Christmas functions, Likidis advises venue owners develop ways to manage client expectations while also keeping costs down. “It’s important to balance and consider the needs of the client with the operational needs of the business. “Business owners need to provide a menu that the client will love but which doesn’t require the kitchen having to reinvent the wheel. Sometimes this means saying no to the client, or as I like to call it ‘providing a positive alternative,’” she adds. Likidis explains Blackbird has developed a strategy for dealing with cancellations, whether it is an entire func-

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hospitality | October 2014

tion or reduction in the number “They need to know exactly what of guests attending a particular not only their food and beverage costs event. are but the operational costs of the “Often people anticipate and space. Once business owners have book for a far greater volume of that then they can determine what guests than is the eventual realikind of money they need to hold an ty. To protect our business from event,” he adds. the very real risk of an event’s No two events are the same, so a numbers dropping, on the ‘hot’ number of aspects must be considered Grace Likidis dates, such as the two Saturdays when it comes to pricing, explains Rieg. prior to Christmas when we know we “Business owners need to know how could sell the space 100 times over, we much it costs to run an event for say, set a fairly steep minimum combined 100 people, the number of staff they will food and beverage spend requirement need, the cost of entertainment and secuand ask the client to sign an agreement rity guards – the whole lot. to this affect and also pay a deposit. “They really need to figure out how “This doesn’t mean we will charge much it costs and then they can say, for any more or that the guest is charged example, ‘if I don’t get $60 per head I for something they haven’t consumed, can’t hold the event,’” he says. but it means that if the numbers drop Budgeting aside, Rieg says Christmas we are protected,” she adds. functions must meet the expectations of Two particular types of functions everyone involved. “This includes the are proving popular at Blackbird, people that attend the event, the event Likidis says. “We seem to swing beorganisers and the operator or business tween a) sit down dinners in our priowner. The customer must have a great vate dining rooms for smaller groups experience and be confident that they reof up to 20 and b) large cocktail parties ceived a good deal, and the owner must which are more casual – we don’t see also make money from it.” much in the middle. He adds there are no hard and fast rules “In terms of food trends, share platwhen it comes to both the style of dining ters are hugely popular for dinner style events, and we’ve and food offering at Christmas functions. seen an enormous increase of cocktail inclusions in bev“We do stand-up cocktail functions where people erage packages,” she adds. can move around, like at The Glenmore where we do barbecue functions, and at our other venues people Control your costs still go for formal sit-downs – however the trend is Michael Rieg, general manager operations – customer ex- definitely towards casual functions where people are perience at the Sydney-based W. Short Hotel Group, which able to mingle. encompasses the likes of The Glenmore and The Australian “The menus at our venues are very different, each Heritage Hotel advises smaller operators to get their budg- has its own product line. It’s not like the old days eting right before they agree to host a Christmas-themed where you simply had a honey glazed ham and turkey. function or event. While we can do that it’s not what people want – they “Quite often business owners sell a space and then at the go to venues for specific reasons and they know the end of the month they don’t make a lot of money, so they product, there are no guidelines around what is right need to be very, very clear on what it costs to hold an event. and wrong.”

“Business owners need to provide a menu that the client will love but which doesn’t require the kitchen having to reinvent the wheel”

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managingfeedback

Digital D

When a customer leaves feedback, whether it’s good or bad, the worst thing you can do is ignore it. By Jasmine O’Donoghue.

Salt Grill, Surfers Paradise.

hospitality | October 2014

n the online environment, there are a number of new opportunities allowing customers to give feedback, and people are getting more and more comfortable with publishing their opinions. But, as a business owner, does responding to this feedback really make a difference? “Now there’s a raft of new opportunities where you can give feedback either semi-anonymously or publically and … people are getting more and more used to making comments and writing their opinions,” says Ken Burgin, CEO of ProfitableHospitality.com. It would be preaching to the converted to argue the importance of feedback in the hospitality environment, yet the internet is plastered with unanswered comments and unattended reviews. Burgin says that it’s not just about monitoring online reviews, but also actively engaging with the people who leave them. “I think if you do nothing, you’re not taking social media seriously as a source of business,” he says. “It’s kind of like there’s this party going on in the other room, they’re all talking about you, but you don’t want to go into the room.” Before diving head-first into the digital world, it’s important to know a bit about the way each website works.

“Facebook has pulled back the amount of traffic from business pages dramatically since the beginning of this year, if you clicked the ‘like’ button on a restaurant six months ago, you’re never going to see anything from them now unless they actively promote it with advertising, but if you put a comment, they will pop up in your newsfeed because Facebook’s reading that as you being actually actively interested. That’s another part of keeping your Facebook fans engaged.” While Facebook is a useful tool for restaurateurs, there are plenty of other platforms to consider. Burgin suggests engaging with customers on TripAdvisor, UrbanSpoon, Yelp, Eatability and Google reviews. Dealing with a negative review can be daunting, but Burgin says that it should be done within 24 hours of the review’s publication. “You don’t just leave bad reviews unattended. They won’t come down; it’s rare to be able to remove them so give up on that one. Instead of getting furious with Facebook, just respond to it. “If it’s a negative one, I think it’s quite important not to reply in the heat of the moment. Just breathe, have a coffee, do a little bit of investigation and maybe respond to it late in the day or the next day. You’ve got to respond but just calm down first.”

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When responding to feedback, it’s important to realise you are not just responding to that person individually, but to everyone who may read it. Although you may not win back the customer who hasn’t enjoyed themselves, you may soften the impact that a scathing review can have on potential future customers. Even if you don’t agree with the feedback, it’s still important to respond, even if to just acknowledge the diner’s experience. Burgin suggests responding with “I’m very concerned about your feedback, it’s very rare, that’s not the experience of most of our guests … can you email me so I can investigate more.” “You [should] always talk about how you’re making sure things work better in the future because really, you can’t revisit that moment and fix it. Maybe you are going to reprimand someone, but you’re not going to talk about that publically. There may be some bad stuff that has to be fixed up or cleaned up, but we’re talking about going forward,” Burgin says.

Lucio’s Italian Restaurant.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

“I think if you do nothing, you’re not taking social media seriously as a source of business” Luke Mangan

In the case where the restaurant has done the wrong thing, Burgin believes you still don’t have to admit it. He suggests responding with a passive voice, for example “There appear to have been some problems” or “it appears we were short staffed.” Receiving online feedback does not necessarily mean that someone has complained, in fact, Burgin says that the majority of online reviews are positive. Responding to positive feedback is often less daunting, and warrants a shorter reply. “[Treat it like] a hand written note,” Ken says. “Just write one sentence, like what you’d write in a greeting card.” Restaurateur and owner of Glass Brasserie in Sydney’s Hilton, Luke Mangan considers feedback vital, and he personally responds to each one by phone. “I think it’s important that [the customer] sees that I’ve seen it, I’ve read it and that I’m dealing with it. Mistakes happen in the restaurant and some people can walk out with a bad experience and my job is to turn that around. “It’s a phone call, it’s not a lot, and I wouldn’t care if it took up a whole day as long as I’m turning a negative into a positive. Put yourself in the customer’s shoes…you want to speak to someone who can do something about it,” Mangan told Hospitality magazine. He says that most bad reviews are a

result of human error. “Usually a negative comment has come from a stupid mistake. Our systems are all in place, and have been for many years, and they work.” After addressing the complaint, Mangan often asks the guest back with a personal phone call and does his “utmost to give them the experience that they should have got in the first place.” Sally Galletto is the back of house manager at Lucio’s in Paddington and responds to feedback as a way of letting customers know that she and the rest of the Lucio’s team care about the standard of service they deliver. “I want to absolutely acknowledge the person that’s upset and let them know that we understand they’re upset and that we’re sorry about it, that’s the first thing. It’s just good for other people who maybe have never been to the restaurant to see that we do care. “All I’m ever trying to get across is ‘I’m really sorry if you didn’t have a great time on the night’ and I just try and explain. You never want to say that they’re wrong, because in their mind they’re always going to be right and there’s nothing I’m ever going to be able to say in a reply that’s going to change their way of thinking.” Galletto says that she has set up accounts on websites such as TripAdvisor and Dimmi, so that she will receive an email when a review is posted, and she can address it instantly. “If we have any delay [in responding], it’s usually because I need to speak to the staff that were dealing with them on the night and find out from the staff’s point of view what happened and why this person is so upset.” She says in most cases, people just want an apology. “They might understand if it wasn’t actually our fault, sometimes people come into the restaurant and they’re in a bad place already, maybe they’re fighting with a partner or something so no matter what we do, they’re not going to be happy and then maybe if they have to wait an extra 10 minutes for their meals to come out and they’re sitting in stony silence they’re going to think ‘that restaurant kept us waiting for hours.’” Whether you’re a small café or three hatted restaurant, putting aside a few minutes to respond to feedback can have a huge impact on the customer experience, and the reputation of your establishment. After all, if a diner thinks your business doesn’t care about them, then why would they care about your business?

hospitality | October 2014

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The food, the space and the pace in restaurant kitchens has continuously changed over the years, and so too has the equipment they house, writes Brandon Clarke.

hospitality | October 2014

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hilst the fundamentals of small that some say ‘you need to go outcooking have remained the side in order to change your mind!’ same for generations, the Where there was once a large line-up tools we use in the kitchen of oven ranges with a mixture of open have undergone continuous evolution. burners, target tops and griddles, there From the humble beginnings of the are now more dedicated and multiearth oven through to the open flame purpose pieces of equipment as well as fire and onto the highly advanced equip- brute workhorses that fulfill multiple ment in use today, the engine room that tasks. As far as basic equipment goes, is a restaurant kitchen has continued one of the most noticeable changes in evolving and undergone monumental this evolution occurred during the late changes over the years, as the need to 80s and early 90s, with the arrival of produce more food in less time becomes the combi steamer. more important. Although its acceptance by the cookThis change has been most noticeable ing fraternity was somewhat slow in the over the past 30 years where technology, early days, you would be hard pressed design, and more importantly space (or to find a commercial kitchen today that lack thereof), have been major factors in does not have at least one. Its ability to this evolution. perform many cooking functions and One of the more challenging compo- reduce preparation and cook times has nents has been the availability of space, proved invaluable. with smaller footprints becoming the In fact its continuous development over norm in food service businesses, where the past 15 years in particular has providoperators are constantly chasing more ed incredible options and tools for chefs bums on seats to boost profitability. and restaurant owners alike, allowing for O 1these 0 1 days 4 _ 0some 0 0 kitchens _ L U M are- so 1 greater 2 0 1business 4 - 0 9 - menu 0 3 Tflexibility. 1 5 : 0 8 : 1 In H fact and

The combi steamer might appear to be one of the biggest advancements in recent times, and indeed it is, but we have also seen an enormous amount of other equipment innovations enter the market. These include a number of automated tools such as conveyor ovens and high speed broilers, as well as multi-purpose cookers, which have enabled operators to cater for much larger volumes without the need for increased manual labour, which itself has become a huge burden on profitability. As a result of the need to reduce labour costs, food holding has also seen continuous development, particularly in the fast food and QSR markets. Whether it is preparation, cooking or holding, these equipment innovations have been aimed at increasing productivity whilst reducing operating costs and ultimately taking up less space wherever possible. In amongst all the innovation has been the varying approaches to fitting out a kitchen. A lot of focus during this 1period + 1 0has : 0been 0 on the look and appeal

“Effective kitchen design and achieving ‘flow’ during service requires far more attention today than in years gone by”

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18/08/2014 5:33 pm hospitality | October 2014

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of the line-up, with many opting for commonality and fit, often referred to as “range match”, as opposed to “fit for purpose”. In recent times however, with restaurant trends continuously changing, the focus seems to have returned to choosing more specific equipment that is purpose built. Whilst these pieces do not always have that visual or aesthetic appeal, tucked away out the back in the engine room, their ability to perform the required task is second to none. Lateral thinking has also generated many new innovative ideas in service flow and process. Nowadays the operator no longer needs to move continuously around the kitchen as the storage and cooking components have been married together with equipment mounted directly over refrigerated drawers and storage compartments. Whilst equipment will continue to evolve with constant innovation and design changes, the key driver now appears to have shifted in another direction. Over the past few years efficiency and overall cost effectiveness have been more at the forefront, particularly with the ever rising costs of utilities. There is now a far greater focus on factors such as energy efficiency. Today we have equipment that can produce 40 percent more product in the same footprint and with a 30 percent reduction in running costs. The focus for chefs and business owners today seems to centre around how they can produce the same or greater quantity whilst reducing the overall costs and somehow managing to extend the life of the equipment at the same time. Effective kitchen design and achieving ‘flow’ during service requires far more attention today than in years gone by, with careful consideration needed for planning and choosing the best equipment for the space and style of the venue. In particular, taken into account are key factors such as space, production capabilities in peak service times, operating costs and of course longevity. Sourcing professional advice and assistance from designers and industry specialists is something that should always be considered to achieve the best possible outcomes. So where to from here? Whilst the general operation of a kitchen hasn’t changed much over the years, the manner with which food is processed and prepared has and will continue to change long into the future, as we strive to deliver culinary delights and find more efficient ways to run the engine room.

hospitality | October 2014

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managementcomment

What’s in a claim? Soy, low-fat, low-cal, grass fed, good fats, bad fats, low-carb … what does it all mean (if anything) and should we really care? By Tony Berry.

here has always Tony Berry been a slight whiff about many of the stories appearing in our daily press that are attributed to findings gushing forth from an immense array of academic sources all over the world. It is the sort of smell that would have even the shonkiest cook binning its source without delay, notwithstanding that it might emanate from otherwise fresh looking fodder. Such stories provide a ceaseless stream of fillers for all newspapers, the shockers as well as the would-be more serious. And on slow news days, they can be elevated to prime positions of prominence. These tales of research from universities, colleges and laboratories take us on a never-ending switchback journey where the ups and downs become a succession of Yes and No, Good and Bad, Right and Wrong. Food that one team reportedly found so beneficial last week is now condemned as useless, even detrimental, by another finding announced this week. Today the punters are told to consume all they can of an ingredient that not so long ago was deemed disastrous to health and wellbeing. The slimming aid of a few

months back is now condemned as spreading the tide of obesity, or heart attacks, or diabetes, or ….. whatever. Who knows? More importantly, who cares? Unfortunately, many do. They seize upon these scant snippets without questioning the research that underscores them. Few ask who is the instigator of the research and the media certainly rarely finds space to inform us. What is it designed to prove, or disprove? What are the vested interests at play? What is the depth of the study; how many samples or case histories were taken and examined? All this is essential information in assessing the validity of any research. If you have the speed-reading ability to take in the fine print in those TV adverts extolling all manner of products allegedly favoured by consumers you will generally see they stem from a very small base. Excessive claims

“The more a restaurant expands the descriptive passages on its menu, the more it leaves itself open to allegations of misrepresentation”

hospitality | October 2014

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managementcomment PROFESSIONALS

are based on “71 of 93 customers” who presumably gave a positive answer to a cleverly skewed question. There is a twofold problem here: the media shovels out these cursory summaries of “research” without providing essential background, and the public – our customers – accept them as gospel, and act accordingly. Thus we are confronted by demands well beyond what any food service outlet should be reasonably expected to provide. The prime example is in our coffee shops where the bizarre has become the norm. No longer does coffee come simply with or without milk and maybe the addition of sugar, but in a zillion and one combinations likely to send even the best barista’s brain into meltdown. Much of this is the result of pronouncements about milk versus soy, caffeine levels, fat, low-fat, low-cal, hi-cal and all the innumerable permutations populating this one small area of what we eat and drink. Ah, the fifty shades of whey. Beyond this are all the pronouncements about our five a day (or should it be seven, or more, or less?), carbs or proteins, fats (good and bad), sugars, salt, nuts, flours and so many other factors we are told to consider before daring to compose, cook and present even the most basic meal. One recent US study suggests those counting the calories would be better off dining in a fast-food establishment rather than one displaying Michelin stars. The argument advanced here is that sitting down to a meal offering several indulgent courses results in an intake of fats, sugars, salt and calories well in excess of that available via a Big Mac or similar. Predictably, the study was accompanied by a call for more information on what chefs are cooking up beyond the swing door. It joins numerous other demands (and there is none more demanding that those with perceived allergies) for restaurants to adopt some form of menu writing that mirrors the minutely detailed labelling food manufacturers are already forced to follow, and which has now reached farcical extremes – “this nut loaf may contain nuts”! Such demands will open up yet another minefield for chefs and caterers to inch their way through. Although adhering strictly to the letter of the law, the penalties recently imposed on Maggie Beer (read the details on page 6) demonstrate there is an acutely alert band of nit-pickers poised to descend on anyone stepping even minutely out of line. The more a restaurant expands the descriptive passages on its menu, the more it leaves itself open to allegations of misrepresentation. A genuine desire to inform can quickly result in accusations of deliberate deception. Chefs often talk about “simplicity” in their food. Maybe it should be returned to menus. No more hand-reared beef raised on organic grass and massaged by tender maids with hands washed in beechnut oil, served with the chef’s own potatoes and his mistress’s dawnpicked asparagus. Steak and chips anyone?

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hospitality | October 2014

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industryobserver

here are any number of cafés and restaurants that reside within dining’s ‘middle ground’ – they are not trying to be Quay, Attica or Vue de Monde, but they are where a substantial part of the public’s discretionary spend ends up. A great challenge for these premises is how to be different and yet be in that sweet spot between desirable and commonplace. The difficulty increases with a distinct lack of service skill on the floors of so many places I visit – where is the vision required to be a good waiter (not asking for greatness yet)? Where is decent plate carrying technique? I had some strict mentors growing up on restaurant floors, mainly from traditional European backgrounds, who often saw waiting as a career to be proud of, and treated the skills involved as ones to master. An early lecturer of mine put the art of ‘waiting’ very simply: do it with grace and style, for while you are employed to serve, you are no ones’ servant. We cannot recycle the past and revisit it with caution, but I cannot escape the feeling that the restaurant mainstays have dropped the ball in this area. The tricky bit is getting businesses to place a value on service. We can pay a few dollars to get the latest backpacker to collect plates and wash dishes, but what is the long term ben-

“We can pay a few dollars to get the latest backpacker to collect plates and wash dishes, but what is the long term benefit?”

How good IS

YOUR SERVICE?

hospitality | October 2014

efit to your business going to be? I am sure a convincing argument could be made for investment versus return in terms of training and mentoring floor staff and, in my opinion, there is much to be gained by setting the right standard on the floor – and the customers I listen to would agree wholeheartedly. I acknowledge that it is difficult to quantify the value of good service as it is an intangible thing and therefore hard to measure. You can hand out surveys for customers to fill in, but they will present a skewed result based on the fact that unhappy people are much more predisposed to completing them. Perhaps the skill gap exists at the top? Do you, as a restaurant or café owner, understand the skills involved in providing great customer service? It is no

shame if you haven’t got a natural gift of the gab, gregarious nature or eye for detail, but your business may suffer as a result. The question should then be – how do you improve? Firstly, you need to acknowledge that you have an issue. Have a look at your premises from the customer’s point of view. Sit down, order something and spend an hour taking in the experience. How does it feel to be on the customer’s side? Pay attention to how the staff work around the space, examine their eye contact with customers, rapport and efficiency of movement. One old maître’d of mine used to bang on about taking something out and bringing something back. It’s a sound theory on economy of movement and keeping the staff aware of the tables. Then take the time to review your observations with your staff and provide honest feedback. Next step is to go to some of your competitors and aspirational competitors (where you are and where you would like to be) and assess your own company and frontline staff honestly against theirs. These businesses can provide a reference point for your own expectation of service proficiency – how good are they? It’s important to judge yourself and your team against others nearby and look at industry best practice. Critical in this is how you felt about the experience – did you feel welcomed and valued? Was the food up to your expectation? How did the floor staff manage the customer flow? Did the restaurant/café provide you with value for money? Lastly, armed with all this new found knowledge about how other companies treat their customers and staff and what you found when assessing your own place, how do you find the time to implement any changes to your business? Simple really, it comes back to the importance you place on service and a willingness to change. If you want to change, you’ll find the time, money and inclination and you will invest them wisely. Customers have a great opportunity to praise or denigrate your business through social media with little regard for the consequences that will follow. Try not to give them the opportunity – serve them with distinction.

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managementcomment

Y W H

A R E

S O M E

restaurants

bad food WITH

successful

It’s not unusual for people to say that it’s bad service, not bad food, that causes diners to walk away and never come back. So what can you do to make sure your staff are up to scratch? Ken Burgin reports.

Ken Burgin

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

ating out recently at a busy, low-cost ‘mod med’ restaurant, I got to wondering. The food was very ordinary, and the place was jumping. They’ll never be mentioned in the Best Food Awards, but neither will they be grizzling about high wages and a tough economy. Service quality? No prizes here, but what the young, sexy wait staff lacked in skills they made up for with smiles and enthusiasm. Complaint handling? Not a problem – our sleek host replaced a wilted salad without a murmur and brought us extra. Speedy – you bet, with starters served quickly, and main course not far behind, thanks to a clever menu, the latest hand-held ordering and a modern kitchen. The spag bol looked like a car accident, the prawns were flavourless and the gelato was plastic. Most customers didn’t notice, and they loved what the place was doing right. Let’s climb down off our high horse and learn from this profitable operator and his terrific staff. This team was ‘wide-eyed’, but in so many places they’re not. They miss obvious things like uncleared tables, empty wine glasses and customers waiting. It’s a trainable skill, but first you need to teach people to notice. Make it a game – one night concentrate on finding every empty wine glass, another time on how many customers ordered dessert, another time how many customers look like they’re on a date. This way you’ll gradually get people into the habit of using their power of observation. Young staff may be shy about selling to customers and don’t want to use ‘pressure’. An easy way for them to feel comfortable making recommendations is for them to suggest to customers their own favourite, or to recommend the biggest seller – ‘everybody’s favourite’! This can help build confidence and get people into the sales game – remember, selling is a sport. At this restaurant, they all used a standard script to sell bread, mineral water and side salad … and it worked.

How do your staff handle complaints? Sometimes they react as if it’s a personal attack. Most customers don’t complain even at the venue – they just go away, tell all their friends (and Facebook), and never go back. To help your people handle these more confidently, it’s useful to have a few likely ones written down and let them learn the standard answers. For example, if food is too slow in coming out, what’s the policy on compensation? How should staff handle a customer who is complaining and a bit intoxicated, and what to say if someone complains about prices? Better they respond to the situation in the way you want, than make up their own answer. Help staff understand the customer experience by getting them to think through the Cycle of Service. Ask them to list 10 things a customer will do from the time they come in the door, through ordering, re-ordering, finding a seat, playing pool, entertaining children, eating – even using the bathroom. Now ask them to check the quality of service or facilities at every one of the 10 points to see if they can suggest any small actions that could improve the customer experience. It’s surprising the gems you can uncover, and it encourages staff to think about business from the customer’s point of view. Keep your staff up-to-date with product knowledge. Wine reps can help with this, and kitchen staff can put together tasting plates. At this restaurant, everyone could describe what was in the dishes, what was spicy and what was gluten-free. Yes, it’s slightly robotic but it’s definitely helpful. Quizzes are an easy way to increase staff knowledge. Do they know what pesto is and how it’s made, or the difference in cuts of meat or types of fish? And where are Italy, Lebanon and Greece? Put it all together and your business will be the one that’s bursting at the seams, with happy staff and full tables. King Island chicken? Never heard of it – but the schnitzel is great.

“Let’s climb down off our high horse and learn from this profitable operator and his terrific staff”

hospitality | October 2014

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shelfspace

3 6

4 1. Engage customers with digital displays ViewSonic Corp. has recently unveiled two new 10-inch wallmounted multimedia ePosters, the EP1031r and EP1032r-T. Both feature a widescreen LCD display and built-in wireless and LAN connectivity, and they support Power over Ethernet (PoE). They are designed for high-visibility, high-traffic locations including pubs, clubs, restaurants and hotel lobbies, and can be used as menu boards through to interactive signs promoting a particular message. Other features include a media player, 4GB internal storage and integrated speakers. Head to www.viewsonic.com.au

2. Organic butter is now free from salt The Organic Dairy Farmers of Australia Co-op (ODFA) has launched an organic unsalted butter to complement its salted variety,

hospitality | October 2014

which is the only organic butter made in Australia year round on a commercial scale. The new product retains the key characteristics of its predecessor – it is made using fresh organic cream sourced from local farms, has a soft texture and a uniquely yellow colour. Check out www.organicdairyfarmers.com.au

3. Craft beer heads online Andy Williamson, Alex Gale and Mark Woollcott have established BeerBud, an online store for lovers of Australian craft beer. The website stocks over 100 craft beer varieties, mixed cases and limited edition releases from more than 30 of Australia’s craft breweries, and they can be delivered to peoples’ doors, whether that be a home or venue. The majority of craft beer brands stocked on the website are available to venues for wholesale purchase. Head to www.beerbud.com.au for more information

4. Cook, cut and blend The new Robot Cook cooking cutter blender from Robot Coupe is designed to emulsify, grind, mix, chop, blend and knead. It can accurately heat ingredients to a temperature of 140°C, making it ideal for both hot and cold applications. The machine is suitable for commercial use thanks to its 3.7 litre stainless steel bowl, and it also includes programmable functions, a scraper arm that is twinned with a lip wiper and a lid opening which enables ingredients to be added while the machine is running. See www.robotcoupe.com.au

5. Australian-made cast iron pans Mark Henry, the founder of Füri knives has devised a new kitchen product for foodservice professionals: Fonte ‘Tough Love’ Australianmade cast iron pans. Each pan has a heart-shaped handle that allows for more control and comfort,

and it minimises heat transfer up the handle. The French-inspired ‘Lyonnaise sauteuse’ pan shape is suitable for sauté tossing vegetables, sauces and more. The pans are available through crowdfunding site www.kickstarter.com

6. Towel dispensers for high traffic areas The Livi auto-cut capacity dispenser system from Solaris Paper delivers reliable and efficient ‘paper-ondemand’ dispensing. Key features include pre-controlled one sheetat-a-time dispensing meaning less wastage and washroom litter, as well as universal keyed locks on both sides with push button access for quick changeovers. It is paired with the Livi Essentials 200m Hand Roll Towel – a high GSM ply with performance grade Dot emboss. The products are HACCP certified for maximum food safety hygiene. For more information head to www.solarispaperafh.com.au

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31 October-2 November, Vino Paradiso Australia’s wine, food, craft beer, cider and spirit producers will take over the Australian Technology Park in Sydney for the Vino Paradiso Festival, featuring masterclasses hosted by leading wine and culinary experts. Highlights include the opportunity to create personalised wine labels, and ‘the Aroma Bar’, which will explore the connection between smell and taste. www.vinoparadiso.com.au

NOVEMBER 13-16, Taste of Melbourne Held at Albert Park, the annual event will this year include masterclasses and

aphy Photo gr

17-19, Good Food & Wine Show Brisbane will host the Good Food & Wine Show over three days at the Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Centre. The show will celebrate wines from around Australia at the Riedel A+ Australian Wine Bar, and feature masterclasses on topics ranging from craft beer, matching cheese and wine, and authentic Italian cooking. www.goodfoodshow.com.au/brisbane

by: Ali sa

OCTOBER

demonstrations from some of the country’s best chefs, a traditional Bavarian Brauhaus, a sprawling French-quarter and live music acts. The 2014 line-up features a mix of new and returning restaurants including MoVida; Burch & Purchese Sweet Studio; CBD favourites Brooks Restaurant & Bar and Mamasita; Daniel Wilson’s Huxtable & Huxtaburger; Michael Lambie’s south side venue The Smith and newcomer Lucy Liu; East Brunswick’s Pope Joan; and Southbank’s Saké Restaurant & Bar. There will also be free curing and preserving workshops with local and visiting providores in the Olsson’s Salt Sessions; a Rekorderlig Cider Bar, a Platinum Garden Bar and a Lurpack Cookery School. www.tasteofmelbourne.com.au H0 1 4 _ 0 3

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21-23, Margaret River Gourmet Escape At the heart of the festival is the Gourmet Village at the Leeuwin Estate Winery, which will showcase produce of the region. The winery will host cooking demonstrations, wine tastings, masterclasses, Q&As and panel discussions. It has a line-up of industry professionals attending including Heston Blumenthal (pictured), Gullaume Brahimi, Jacques Reymond, Matt Wilkinson, George Calombaris and Peter Gilmore. www.gourmetescape.com.au

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