Hospitality November-December 2015

Print Post Approved PP100007268

No.720 November-December 2015

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

foodservice

■

accommodation

■

beverage

■

management

UNFREEZE YOUR CREATIVITY FROZEN BAKERY RANGE

UNFREEZE YOUR CREATIVITY. FROZEN BAKERY RANGE ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

4 months shelf life Small cartons of 6 Available nationally Freezer to table convenience

ABBott’s village bakery® country grains 9036 Rustic white 9037 FARMHOUSE wholemeal light rye 9038

9039

Contact your local foodservice distributor

www.TIPTOP-FOODSERVICE.COM.AU / 1800 086 926 © Registered trade marks of George Weston Foods Limited. All rights reserved.

Print Post Approved PP100007268

No.720 November-December 2015

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

foodservice

■

accommodation

■

beverage

■

management

Hello 2017!

John Fink pulls out his crystal ball

PLUS:

Chefs on holidays The weird and wonderful things chefs eat when taking time off

Is it OK to charge for bread and water?

THE

MERIVALE EFFECT Why Justin Hemmes thinks Sydney’s dining scene is the best in the world

Creating your masterpiece just got easy squeezy TM

NEW 1 litre squeezy bottles. Available now.

Whole Egg Mayonnaise | Aioli Garlic Mayonnaise | Tzatziki Garlic Sauce Italian Truffle Mayonnaise | Smokey Chipotle Mayonnaise

Call us on 02 8668 8000 to arrange a free tasting. www.birchandwaiteprofessional.com.au Conditions apply, see website for details.

19 editor’s note

I

No.720 November-December 2015

Print Post Approved PP100007268

t was my birthday recently, so unsurprisingly I spent the entire week eating and drinking – it’s what I do best.

Every year, I spend the weeks leading up to the day racking my brain for the restaurants that I’ve been meaning to get to but haven’t. More often than not, however, I get overwhelmed all too soon, and end up handing the responsibility of planning the celebrations over to my nearest and dearest. It’s my birthday, after all.

After a lot of Googling and negotiating, we settled on two restaurants: one, which has earned heaps of press this year and was one of the most talked about openings of 2015, and another, which was out in the ‘burbs (gasp!) and compared to restaurant number one is relatively unknown, but I’d heard a few rumblings about its delicious coffee and awesome share plates menu, so we were keen to give it a go.

Guess what? The latter trumped the former – by a long shot, in my eyes. And do you know what it all came down to?

The service. The food was incredible and the wine lovely at the hugely celebrated diner, but a couple of the floor staff were – to be honest – a little sour and almost disintersted. The night before at the lesser known venue, our hosts were great; we felt instantly at home and you could tell that hospitality was in their blood. The food was just as good, if not better, and – here’s the clincher – I felt comfortable and relaxed, as you should on your birthday!

So there you go. Hype doesn’t really mean anything in this industry, does it?

foodservice

■

beverage

■

management

PLUS:

Chefs on holidays The weird and wonderful things chefs eat when taking time off

16

Is it OK to charge for bread and water?

THE

MERIVALE EFFECT Why Justin Hemmes thinks Sydney’s dining scene is the best in the world

8

Merivale CEO, Justin Hemmes.

cover

12

contents FEATURES

12 The Merivale effect

6

We chat with Justin Hemmes.

16 An authentic spin Making AVPN certified pizza.

Seeking inspiration abroad.

22 #whatsyourbeef We announce the winner!

24 The year ahead

MANAGING EDITOR Danielle Bowling T: 02 8586 6226 dbowling@intermedia.com.au

HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

John Fink talks trends.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Australia 1 year (10 issues) = $99.00 (inc GST) 2 years (20 issues) = $158.40 (inc GST) – Save 20% 3 years (30 issues) = $207.90 (inc GST) – Save 30% New Zealand 1 year (10 issues) = $109.00 Asia/Pacific 1 year (10 issues) = $119.00

REGULARS News

The latest industry news from our website.

8

New openings Recent arrivals on the hospitality block.

19 Chefs on holiday

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

accommodation

Hello 2017!

PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Rhonnie Merry T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 rhonnie@intermedia.com.au

■

John Fink pulls out his crystal ball

Editor: Danielle Bowling dbowling@intermedia.com.au

JOURNALIST Aoife Boothroyd T: 02 8586 6194 aboothroyd@intermedia.com.au

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

10 Pop the prosecco Don’t leave it off your summer list.

26 Rant Struggles to expect in 2016.

27 Don’t be forgotten Tips to help ensure patrons remember who you are.

28 Breaking bread Is it OK to charge for bread and water?

29 Shelf space Three new products to hit the foodservice market.

30 Diary Industry events worth adding to the calendar.

DISCLAIMER

FOOD AND BEVERAGE MEDIA A division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd 41 Bridge Road GLEBE NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419

Rest of World 1 year (10 issues) = $129.00 Average Net Distribution Period ending Sep’ 2014 –11,828

This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof.

To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages.

While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

Copyright © 2015 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

hospitality | November-December 2015

5

newsonline

Industry needs 123,000 more workers by 2020 In order to meet the needs of the growing industry, Australia’s tourism and hospitality sector will require an additional 123,000 workers by 2020, the 2015 Australian Tourism Labour Force Report has found.

The report estimated that inbound travel would grow by six percent annually from 2015-2020, with the number of international visitors growing from the current 7.2 million to over 10 million by 2023-24.

Tourism Accommodation Australia (TAA) said the report identified that there would be a need for 60,000 skilled positions, requiring a major lift in local recruitment and training as well as a relaxation in temporary skilled migration provisions including 457 visas and working holiday visas.

The last Australian Tourism Labour Force Report was conducted in 2011, under the direction of then Tourism Minister, Martin Ferguson, who is now chair of Tourism Accommodation Australia. He said “Since 2011, the pace of develop-

ment in the tourism and hotel sector has increased significantly and while some positive progress has been made in recruitment and retention, supply of skilled labour is not keeping up with demand.

“The TRA survey identified a large increase in the proportion of businesses reporting skills deficiencies, growing from 50 percent of

businesses in 2011 to 69 percent in 2015, and while NSW and Victoria reported the highest volume of skills shortages, all states and territories were affected with the Northern Territory and Western Australia particularly vulnerable to skilled labour shortages,” he said.

Australia is undergoing its most rapid period of hotel development,

Skills deficiencies has grown to

RT

69%

O PA S S P

Tourism & hospitality will require an additional

with over 70 hotels and some 10,000 rooms under construction or in advanced stages of planning.

“The massive growth in hotel development will put particular strains on the industry because Australia is competing in an increasingly competitive world tourism market and there is a critical need to enhance service standards,” Ferguson said.

“It is important for the industry to ‘grow its own’ and invest in training and career development, and we need to place greater emphasis on attracting more mature aged, youth and Indigenous Australians into the industry.”

Ferguson said that since the last Tourism Labour Force Report, the rate of dependence on overseas workers has dropped from 13 percent of the total workforce to 10 percent and argued that with such an “unprecedented pipeline” of new hotel development and increasing international demand, governments need to be flexible, especially in regards to temporary skilled workers.

NSW & Victoria

have the highest volume of skills shortages

6%

Dependence on overseas workers has dropped to

123,000

Inbound travel up

10%

workers by 2020

Out & about

from 2015-2020

Industry events the Hospitality team attended recently...

25 March

April 4

April 9

April 9

April 10

April 10

Hunter Valley Uncorked Festival

Masterclass @ Cafe Sydney

1st birthday party @ Coogee Pavilion

Mr Black Grindhouse party

Huon Aquaculture tour in Tasmania

Filming @ Rabbit Hole Tea Bar

For other stories and information please visit our website: www.hospitalitymagazine.com.au 6

hospitality | November-December 2015

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Season 6 (MA15+) Express from the U.S.

Repeat business is now dead easy.

With Foxtel For Guests you can be sure your customers will be coming back for more.

In fact, 47% of guests are more likely to return to a hotel that offers the full Foxtel package.* So don’t be a zombie and give your guests the entertainment they demand.

Call 1300 027 803 or visit foxtel.com.au/business

Foxtel and some services not available to all buildings. Foxtel marks are used under licence by Foxtel Management Pty Ltd. * Based on research from Ruby Cha Cha January 2015.

for Guests

newopenings Cook & Co Located on the street level of the Mantra on Queen Hotel, Cook & Co. has officially opened, offering rustic home-style fare and an extensive wine list. The kitchen is headed up by executive chef Andrew McCabe who has developed a menu that puts the spotlight on the char grill. Menu items include slow braised spiced beef brisket with coriander and cumin yoghurt; Spanish seafood broth with chorizo and citrus; and the corned and char grilled 7+ Wagyu silverside. Cook & Co. is also open for breakfast, serving up classics such as bubble and squeak; eggs served any way; smashed avocado on sourdough; and bruschetta with cherry tomatoes and anchovies. Design-wise, the restaurant has adopted a modern bistro décor, incorporating communal tables and private booths. Exposed wooden beams and brick work give the space an urban industrial character.

Owner: Mantra Hotels Head chef: Andrew McCabe Where: 570 Queen Street, Brisbane, QLD Open: Mon – Sat; and Sunday breakfast Web: www.mantra.com.au/queen

Foy’s Kirribilli

The Bank on Collins

One Ford Street

Located within the Sydney Flying Squadron, Foys Kirribilli has been spearheaded by Adam Marshall of the Bird and Bear café in Elizabeth Bay. Frenando Sanchez from Darlinghurst’s Food Society has taken on the role of head chef, creating large share plates including crispy roast chicken with chimichurri; and slow roasted lamb shoulder with rosemary aioli. The menu also boasts seafood dishes such as Tasmanian salmon cured in tequila, lime and cumin with crème fraiche, sourdough wafer and dill leaf; the seafood plate of grilled prawns, calamari, lemon and thyme BBQ octopus; and pan seared market fish of the day.

Housed in the grand banking chamber and mezzanine level of the heritage-listed Bank of Australia building, The Bank on Collins is located on the corner of Collins & Queen Street in Melbourne’s CBD. The building was built in 1838 and features ornate metal balustrades, marble floors and vintage chandeliers, together with a 17m bronze bar top, 18 copper beer taps, and three gold wine taps. The venue has a private dining room capable of catering for 20 to 24 people, a private cocktail area, and second cocktail bar on the mezzanine level. The venue will offer a $69 three course set menu that comes with a cocktail.

One Ford Street has opened within the refurbished Cricketers Arms Hotel Balmain, offering an Italian inspired menu created by chef Sam Bennett. Menu items include pickled olives, cured meats, handmade pasta and mortadella, with larger share-style plates comprising chopped veal ‘cipriani’ and pizza crusts; just cooked tiger prawns with sugar snaps and caramelle; and lamb T-bones with spring fregola salad, mint and almonds. The front of house is led by Fabio Dore who has put together a boutique wine list encompassing Italian regions as well as some local interpretations of Italian varietals alongside an Italian craft beer range.

Owner: Adam Marshall Head chef: Fernando Sanchez Where: 76 McDougall St, Kirribilli, NSW Open: Seven days Web: www.sydneyflyingsquadron. com.au

8

hospitality | November-December 2015

Owner: Retail Savvy Group Head chef: Rob Lewis Where: 394 Collins Street Melbourne, VIC Open: Mon – Sat, 11am – 1am Web: www.retailsavvygroup.com/ thebankoncollins

Owner: Tim Condon Head chef: Sam Bennett Where: 1 Ford Street, Balmain NSW Open: Wed – Sat dinner; Fri – Sun lunch Web: www.cricketersarmsbalmain. com.au

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Like what you see?

Subscribe to Hospitality magazine to stay up-to-date with the latest industry news and views Operating since 1967, Hospitality magazine is committed to providing chefs, restaurateurs, suppliers, students and business managers with all the information they need to do business better.

With 10 issues a year, Hospitality magazine has all the latest information on current trends and trendsetters in the foodservice and beverage sectors, while also keeping you abreast of new product launches and regulatory updates.

FOR AUSTRALIAN DELIVERY:

FOR NEW ZEALAND RATES:

FOR REST OF THE WORLD:

• 1 Year subscription is $99.00 – 10 issues

• 1 Year subscription is $109.00 – 10 issues

• 1 Year subscription is $ 129.00 – 10 issues

• 2 Years subscription is $158.40 – 20 issues

• 2 Years subscription is $218.00 – 20 issues

• 2 Years subscription is $258.00 – 20 issues

• 3 Years subscription is $207.90 – 30 issues

• 3 Years subscription is $327.00 – 30 issues

• 3 Years subscription is $387.00 – 30 issues

www.hospitalitymagazine.com.au or call 1800 651 422 to subscribe

beverageswine

Pop the

Prosecco

With sales more than tripling over the past two years, Prosecco is a drop worth adding to your wine list, writes Christine Salins.

W

hat’s not to love about Prosecco?

It’s easy drinking yet sophisticated; food-friendly but also the perfect aperitif. It’s a refreshing pick-meup and a celebration drink; a zippy Italian sparkling wine loved around the world.

In Australia, too, it’s on a roll.

According to retail chain Liquorland, Prosecco sales in Australia have more than tripled over the past two years – that’s around 10 times the growth rate of Champagne.

Speculating on the reasons for its success, it seems that wine drinkers are looking for a light, dry sparkling wine with lower alcohol, and Prosecco fits the bill perfectly.

Driven partly by the region’s large Italian population and partly by its geographic suitability, northeast Victoria is leading the way in the production of Prosecco in Australia. With a high concentration of the country’s Prosecco producers, it even has a Prosecco Road for cellar door visitors to explore.

Two north-east Victorian producers, Dal Zotto and Brown Brothers, pioneered the production of Prosecco in Australia in the late 1990s and have since carved out extensive markets abroad. Others have followed suit, with names like Tempus Two, Chrismont, Coriole, Di Lusso, Gapsted and Terra Felix among those in Australia with Prosecco in their portfolios.

Prosecco is a late ripening white wine variety that originated in the Veneto region of Italy. With a relatively neutral flavour, it is occasionally used to make still wines,

10

hospitality | November-December 2015

but is generally used to make low alcohol wines that are either frizzante (semi sparkling) or spumante (fully sparkling).

Unlike Champagne and high quality sparkling wines, Prosecco is not made in the Méthode Traditionelle - that is, it doesn’t undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, nor is it aged extensively on lees. Instead, it is fermented in the tank and bottled early, with low atmospheric pressure and a light fizz.

This preserves its fresh fruit notes, making it appealing both as an aperitif and with food, especially with light seafood dishes.

The use of the name Prosecco by Australian producers has ruffled the feathers of Italian producers. The European Union asked Australia to stop using the name, but the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia refused to comply on the grounds that Prosecco is the name of a grape, not a geographical indication.

The Italians contend that while the grape used to make Prosecco is indeed officially known as glera, the name Prosecco has come to refer to the area in north-eastern Italy where it originates. The DOC, or designated production zone, lies west of a tiny place called Conegliano in sub-alpine Treviso. The DOC name is Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene.

Leading examples from Italy include Zonin, Tenuta Cá Bolani, Valdo Marca Oro, Torresella and the pinnacle of them all, Bellussi Prosecco di Valdobbiadene.

A relatively new Italian producer and hopefully soon to be seen in Australia is FIOL, an extra

dry Prosecco made by a group of friends who are passionate about Prosecco and want to take it to the world. With super cool labelling, FIOL takes the name of a Venetian slang word for “cool guy” and features a striking black and white graphic representation of the vineyard poles.

In contrast, Zonin has a long history, having been produced by the same family since 1821. This dry fresh wine is being sold as the perfect accessory for summer, with an array of cocktail suggestions. Spritz cocktails are the quintessential Italian drink and the craze translates easily to an Australian setting.

Spritz cocktail suggestions from Zonin Sorrento Sparkle: Combine Limoncello and Cointreau in a shaker with ice. Top with Prosecco and garnish with lemon.

Bellini: Pour peach puree into a chilled flute, add Prosecco and serve straight up without ice. For an interesting twist, swap the peach puree for passionfruit juice.

The Rossini: Pour strawberry puree into a chilled flute, add Prosecco and serve straight up without ice. Garnish with diced strawberries or a whole strawberry if you wish. With its festive red colour, it’s the perfect seasonal thirst-quencher.

Australians to seek out Alpha Box & Dice Zaptung Prosecco: A delicate aroma, lemon and apple notes, and the quirkiest label you’re likely to ever see.

Terra Felix Prosecco: Fresh and exuberant with lemon zest and tropical fruit notes.

Primo Estate NV Primo Secco: Made from a blend of white grapes, this light, crisp sparkling wine is Joe Grilli’s worthy tribute to the wines of the Veneto.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Low browning

Minimal oiling off

Good stretch

Great taste

Excellent coverage when melted

Ideal for high temperature ovens

For more information head to www.clubperfect.com.au

coverstory

W

Merivale effect THE

With a seemingly endless supply of inspired concepts, Merivale is dominating Sydney’s hospitality scene. Danielle Bowling recently caught up with the man behind the empire, CEO Justin Hemmes.

12

hospitality | November-December 2015

hich industries would you say are most fickle? At the top of the list would have to be food and fashion, right?

Any business that wants to dominate in these fields needs to be well versed in what its customers want today, and what they’re likely to want tomorrow. And this is what Merivale – a company which has mastered both food and fashion – does best.

Launching in 1959 as a fashion brand, The House of Merivale, the company was founded by John and Merivale Hemmes and is credited with revolutionising Australian fashion through its three boutiques in Sydney’s Pitt Street, two in Melbourne and one in Canberra.

Nearly 40 years later, in 1996, it closed its last fashion stores and shifted its focus entirely to Sydney’s hospitality industry.

It’s never looked back.

Today, the company is operated

by John and Merivale’s son, Justin.

It boasts more than 50 restaurants, bars, pubs, hotels and function spaces in Sydney, has approximately 2,500 staff and is showing no signs of slowing down.

With venues including the two-hatted Est., Mr Wong, the Coogee Pavilion, Papi Chulo, ivy and Bistrode CBD, Merivale doesn’t have a clearly defi ned growth strategy; it’s more about opportunities and instinct, Hemmes says.

“I’m led by opportunities. As an opportunity presents itself, then I decide if I take it up or not. It’s not a growth strategy as such. Hence the reason we will have growth, and then maybe a little bit less action.

But in saying that, we’ve got a lot going on at the moment.”

Indeed. Merivale is working on seven new concepts due to launch by February 2016. The company has gone through a period of acquiring well-loved, if not iconic venues around the city, including Enmore’s Queen Victoria Hotel in April, the Paddington Arms Hotel in February 2014, the Beach Palace Hotel in Coogee in April 2014 (now The Coogee Pavilion), and in March this year, the Newport Arms Hotel.

So how does Hemmes know if an opportunity is worth pursuing?

Well, along with what his gut feel-

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

coverstory

Just a handful of Merivale’s chefs

Merivale A QUICK LOOK

10

Trusting your gut Hemmes isn’t afraid to say that his personal taste influences the design and experiences on offer at Merivale’s restaurants, cafés and bars. And that’s because it’s balanced with a good understanding of the state of the industry and an awareness of what the local area is lacking in its foodservice offering.

“It’s personal taste, and then as my tastes evolve and my sister’s tastes evolve, we tend to design around that,” he says. “In terms of the offering, it has a lot to do with the area

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

that it’s going into. We try to tailor each offering to suit the local community, whether it be in the city, the suburbs or just out of the perimeter of the city. Every venue has to relate to the people that live in the area.”

No two Merivale venues are the same. The fit-out, menu and ambience at each is completely unique, not just to the group, but often to the city as well. This is, of course, intentional, with Hemmes determined to keep both staff and punters energised and excited. There are a few common threads tying it all together, however.

“We certainly strive for excellence in service; we want all our venues to be comfortable. We try not to be a fad.

We try not to be too cool. We want to build places where people get value for money, whether it’s a fine dining, expensive experience or a very accessible family experience. We strive for value for money and great service in a comfortable environment, as well as consistency of product.”

As Hemmes has matured, so too has the business. Just as his personal tastes influence venues’ look and feel, the company’s direction has shifted as its CEO has aged.

“We’ve certainly moved from one end of the hospitality stick, and we’re heading down to the other: the more food and beverage oriented path as opposed to the nightclub path of 15 to 20 years ago,” he explains.

“It comes down to our maturity, my maturity, and a change in what my habits are. Fifteen years ago I wanted to go to a club for a good night. I don’t anymore; I’d rather go

and have a fantastic meal and a nice drink in a beautiful setting. It’s personal taste.”

While the company still has a strong presence in the nightclub sector, with venues including Chinese Laundry and regular gigs at the ivy like Pacha Sydney and Marco Polo, Hemmes says the clubbing scene has changed, insisting that the experience is “more wild, less sophisticated” now.

In years gone by, every Merivale venue would have a nightclub experience on offer, but those days are over, he says, and they were over long before the state government introduced the now infamous lockout laws, which many venue operators have blamed for their demise.

“Each new venue had a nightclub element to it, whereas in the past five years or so we’ve pulled away from that, which was well before the lockout laws. We changed Tank, which was a huge nightclub in Establishment with a 2,000 capacity club that went for 10 years – we changed that into Mr Wong and Palmer & Co. So it’s a progression and a change in our offering that’s been going for some time, well before the lockouts, but it looks like it was the right decision.”

Knowing your city If Sydney’s nightclub frequenters have lost some sophistication, its diners have gained it in spades.

Hemmes says the biggest change he’s witnessed in the city’s hospitality industry is the quality of food and beverage being served up day

Patrons annually

62 10 Million

ing is telling him, the site also needs “a bit of magic.”

“I think it’s just instinctive. So many variables depend on it. It depends on where we’re at, where I’m at personally with the business model, what our focus is on, how well I know the area, or maybe I don’t know the area but what my gut feeling for it is, and what resources we have available.”

Hemmes says he’d rather take over existing sites than build new ones. His sister, Bettina, is responsible for the interior design of a lot of the group’s venues, and between the two of them they like to take the charm of community favourites and add their own spin to them.

“Generally venues that have recently been done up aren’t of great interest. We like to put our angle, our touch, on everything. So if a substantial amount of money has been spent to get [a site] to a certain level, it’s not as exciting to us.”

MILLION Bars Restaurants & Hotels

TOTAL STAFF

2500 644 OVER

Staff in kitchen

221 Front of house 1312 & operations Management & head office

I N 2 015

Merivale averaged

50 100 NEW recruits per week

Over summer this wil double to over

PER WEEK

hospitality | November-December 2015

13

coverstory

in, day out. It’s what makes Sydney a global leader, he insists.

“The customer has evolved tremendously over the last 20 years.

It’s a very different market; it’s a very evolved market. The customer is very astute and very well educated when it comes to food and beverage.

They have very high expectations, which is a wonderful thing because it pushes us to deliver our best and continue to improve all the time.

“They’re a very well educated customer, probably more so than anywhere I’ve seen in the world, actually. I think as a result of that, in general our average is very high compared to around the world. It seems that any venue you walk into in Sydney or Australia, you’re going to get a good experience, whereas I don’t think I could say the same for most places around the world.”

Never before has the city offered such a diverse range of foodservice establishments. But is it too crowded? Is there too much competition?

Hemmes thinks not.

“I think there are enough people to go ‘round. But not only is there enough, people are going out more often … People are really excited about going out and socialising and it doesn’t have to be a big event. People can just go out for a bite to eat and a glass of wine and a chat. I think it’s lovely, the way the market’s moving.

Coogee Pavilion

Mr Wong

A shared struggle Despite its size and the diversity of its portfolio, Merivale isn’t immune to the challenges faced by other foodservice operators, especially when it comes to recruiting and retaining talent.

Hemmes concedes there is a shortage of hospitality workers in the industry, and says he’d like to see the state government introduce additional incentives for current and potential industry members, as well as more training academies.

“I think we need to put a lot more focus on that: training up young, aspiring talent to stay in the industry, because tourism and hospitality is going to be the most important industry, I think, in the country.”

Sourcing enough staff to fill the vacancies that come up as the business grows is Merivale’s biggest struggle; it needs more than 500 people to help relaunch Newport Arms early next year, and that’s just one of its upcoming projects.

The challenge becomes harder as you move away from the CBD, but what Merivale has that other businesses may lack is a commitment to the professional development of its staff, and the resources to be able to foster it.

“There are great opportunities for them to grow in our businesses, and there are always senior management opportunities coming up, and new venues opening.

So they can advance very quickly

within our business. It’s not like they get to a point where they’re at a stalemate.”

It may be hard to find talent to fill positions, but the quality and talent of industry members is better than it’s ever been, Hemmes says.

“The pool of talent that we can tap into now for food and beverage is far greater and far more exciting than it was 10 years ago. It was very limited before. It was limited to a handful of restaurants whereas now the talent coming through … is extraordinary.”

While it’s often easy for workers in large organisations to feel like just another cog in the wheel, Hemmes says he does his best to keep Merivale’s team members engaged and motivated. The company’s incredible growth and success makes it an enjoyable place to work too, he adds.

“The bigger you get, the more pumped people get. They share in the excitement of the growth and they see the company growing, so it eggs them on and it excites and motivates them. You should see our staff parties; they’re amazing.

“I just try to treat them with the utmost respect, because they’re the most important tool in our business. I just want them to treat the customer so well, so I want to treat them well so they share the love.”

Merivale’s hectic schedule: imminent openings 1. The Paddington (November 2015) The kitchen will be led by Ben Greeno, formerly of Momofuku Seiobo, who will be roasting everything from chicken, whole stuffed fish, lamb rump and beef through to Jerusalem artichokes and celeriac. Greeno’s vision is to bring fun to his pub menu, with a focus on dishes that can be shared amongst friends.

2. Chicken Shop (late 2015) Greeno will launch a chicken shop in the small shopfront next to The Paddington, serving take-away only rotisserie chicken, salads and sandwiches.

3. Queen Victoria Hotel (January 2016) The kitchen will be spearheaded by Christopher Hogarth and Patrick Friesen as well as former Mr. Wong dim sum master, Eric Koh. They will be delivering a Cantonese-style menu of Hong Kong

14

hospitality | November-December 2015

classics with traditionally prepared BBQ meats and seafood.

4. Newport Arms (January/February 2016) The first stage of the redevelopment will open with a new food and drink concept, led by executive chef Sebastien Lataud.

With over 15 years’ Michelin and hatted restaurant experience, Lataud will curate a range of food stalls, alongside ‘Vinnie’s Pizzeria’, serving authentic wood-fired creations by Merivale’s pizza maestro, Vincenzo Biondini.

Fred’s (February 2016) A new restaurant concept, led by Danielle Alvarez (Chez Panisse and the Napa Valley’s three-Michelin-starred French Laundry). Fred’s is shaped by Alvarez’s passionate food philosophy – elevating already perfect produce using old-world techniques such as cooking with a wood-

fired hearth and oven. Alvarez’s hands-on approach extends to making her own bread, butter, pasta and charcuterie. In keeping with Alvarez’s philosophy, the 120-strong wine list, curated by the awardwinning Adrian Filiuta, will focus on smallbatch wines and feature an extensive ‘wine by the glass’ list that will change daily.

5. Sussex 1854 (February 2016) The basement of Fred’s will be home to a prohibition style tapas bar and eatery with seasonally-led cocktails that echo Alvarez’s focus on enhancing quality ingredients.

6. Wine bar, King Street (February 2016) Currently home to the Work in Progress pop-up bar, 50 King Street will be transformed into a European wine bar, offering small bites and sharing plates to complement an extensive wine list curated by Franck Moreau.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Total Table Elegance!

Introducing Pochetta Cutlery Sleeves with napkin included

Proactive Marketing

An innovative approach to advertise your business, in promotions, feedback or registration forms, deliver news, events, or simply make it fun and design your own games. Be a market leader.

Enhance Your Ambience

Impress your guests with a beautiful design or take it one step further by customising and designing your own to compliment.

Save Money, Save Time, Efficient

P Chri lace yo u stma s ordr NOW ers

No more wrapping cutlery. Improve staff productivity. Reduce Labour Costs.

!!!

Wind Resistant

Pochetta provides protection against dirt and wind.

Hygienic

The napkin is inserted during production therefore eliminating any unnecessary handling and exposure to the environment.

For more information on design, quantity, quality go to www.tabletopsolutions.com.au

CALL NOW 1300 738 954

Or email us at info@tabletopsolutions.com.au

italianpizza

An authentic spin A When done right, pizza is a simple and delicious dish. But in order to a make a truly authentic Neapolitan pizza, you must first understand the history behind it, writes Aoife Boothroyd.

T

raditionally comprising just five ingredients – flour, water, salt, olive oil and tomato – today pizza has been interpreted in so many different ways that it can at times bear no resemblance to its original form.

The turn took place around 1980 when pizza really started to become popular outside of Italy – in North America in particular. It was at this time that pizza parlours were popping up all over the globe claiming to be purveyors of traditional Neapolitan pizza even though what they were serving was in fact far from the classic (insert comment about pineapple and plastic cheese here).

In order to differentiate the traditional Neapolitan pizza from the myriad topping-heavy adaptations, Antonio Pace founded the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (True Neapolitan Pizza Association or AVPN) in June 1984. The AVPN is a not for profit organisation with the mission of promoting and protecting the integrity of traditional Neapolitan pizza both in Italy and across the globe.

“Once the pizzas started to develop and be exported around the

16

hospitality | November-December 2015

world, the tradition of Neapolitan Johnny Francesco pizza started to lose its authenticity because people were starting to make their own styles,” Pace told Hospitality. “I wanted to make sure that the rest of the world knew that pizza was born in Naples and that everything else being made was just a variation. I Antonio Pace wanted to make sure that tradition was preserved and that people knew that there is a certain way that true Neapolitan pizza has to be made.”

In order to achieve this, Pace registered the Association and the name Via Pizza Neapolitan, which translates to ‘true Neapolitan pizza.’

“The Association has a lot of value to it because it’s not an association that you can buy into, you need to earn it,” says Pace. “To be part of this Association, you need to demonstrate that you can create traditional Neapolitan pizza, not just once, but on an ongoing basis.

Each year venues get tested.”

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

italianpizza

Authentic ingredients make for authentic pizza According to the AVPN, there are only two types of pizza that can achieve the accreditation: pizza marinara (tomato, oil, oregano, and garlic) and pizza margherita (tomato, oil, mozzarella or fior di latte, basil). That’s not to say that restaurants can’t come up with their own variations in addition to the core staples, but in order to gain the accreditation, these two dishes need to adhere to strict guidelines: the pizza dough must be made from Type 00 flour, only Italian San Marzano tomatoes can be used, the oil must be extra virgin olive oil, the mozzarella has to be of a high quality and the pizza oven must adhere to a certain standard.

It might seem odd to some that only a particular type of imported Italian tomatoes can be used, but there are a number of reasons why the inclusion of San Marzano tomatoes is non-negotiable.

“Apart from it being the first product ever used in the gastro-

“I think it’s imporant to train in Naples because they understand the connection between culture and pizza.”

The value of authenticity

nomic world, they have a really particular structure. The San Marzano tomatoes are drier than other varieties, and also has more humidity where they’re grown due to the volanic soil, so the taste is completely different. The acidity balance with the sweetness is second to none,” says Pace.

“There are two more reasons: one is that the skin is a little bit thick, so it’s easier to remove, and the second is that there are very few seeds inside. Tomato seeds contain tannins so they can be bitter at times but the San Marzano has very

18

hospitality | November-December 2015

few seeds. Also, when San Marzano is mature, it continues to holds its structure very well.”

When it comes to the type of mozzerella, the rules are a little more relaxed. Pace says that two different types of mozzerella can be used: fior de latte, which is made with cows milk and is less watery making it ideal for pizza, and buffalo mozzerella, due to its high quality and taste. Unlike the San Marzano tomatoes, the mozzerella doesn’t have to come from Italy, it just needs to be top quality, says the AVPN.

Johnny Francesco’s 400 Gradi in Melbourne achieved the AVPN accrediation five years ago following intensive training in Naples. Although it’s not a requirement to train in Italy, Francesco says it gave him a far deeper understanding of the history, culture and tradition that true Neapolitan pizza emcompasses.

“I think it’s imporant to train in Naples because they understand the connection between culture and pizza,” says Francesco. “It usually takes about five to six months to achieve the accreditation and in those five or six months there are a number of exams you need to pass.

You have to understand it both on a technical and practical level – just understanding the oven takes a long time.”

Francesco, who the won the 2014 world’s best Neapolitan pizza award at the Pizza World Championships in Parma, Italy, admits

that at times it can be challenging trying to explain to customers why their pizza isn’t piled high with an assortment of toppings, but over time people have become more educated about the quality of real Neapolitan pizza.

“A lot of the people that come to my restaurant – just by looking at the product – start to ask questions because traditional Neapolitan pizza looks completely different to the rest of the pizzas.

The crust looks different, how the ingredients are presented, how quickly it comes to the table due to how quickly it’s cooked… so people do ask.

“At the start it was difficult to educate the customers. My first two or three years were spent talking to my customers, telling them why Neapolitan pizza is so special and what the Association is all about but today, people are starting to become very interested.”

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

eatingabroad

Katz’s Delicatessen, New York.

Image: Glenn Flood.

Chefs

ON HOLIDAY

When it comes to finding inspiration for your next menu, it’s hard to beat a trip overseas.

Aoife Boothroyd recently caught up with some of Australia’s top chefs to chat about some of the dishes and destinations that have had an impact on their cooking styles.

“I

’ve drunk pig’s blood.

When I was an apprentice at Northcote Manor in the UK, I used to steal the kitchen cranberry juice. Unbeknown to me, this had been discovered by the senior chefs who then decided to fi ll the carton with pig’s blood to teach me a lesson. After a hefty gulp I decided to steer clear of the cranberry juice going forward.”

While this is not his most fond culinary memory, Nelly Robinson of Sydney’s nel. restaurant didn’t let this prank dampen his desire to become an experimental, award winning chef. The cuisine at nel. restaurant is described as a contemporary interpretation of modern Australian cuisine, inspiration for which Robinson fi nds in an assortment of places.

“The quality of food in the north of England is sensational. The A59, a 60 mile road which weaves through stunning countryside,

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

fi lled with cheese producers, lamb, partridge and grouse farmers houses five-Michelin star restaurants including The Box Tree, which was opened by Marco Pierre White.

“Southern coastal India too.

The street food and endless spices are truly amazing. As a chef, the

Nelly Robinson

freshness, colour and culture all mixed together are truly inspirational when planning dishes for the restaurant. We aim to create an explosion of all senses when dining at nel. restaurant and always look to this region for inspiration.”

While they may not necessarily

be research trips per se, British-born Robinson says that every overseas adventure he embarks on is 100 percent centred around food.

“Food fi rst, destination second,” says Robinson. “Both my partner Ashley and I plan holidays around cuisines that excites us and we always try to eat the local cuisine when travelling abroad. Undoubtedly, the best platform for discovering new eateries is The Lonely Planet guide. When at home in Australia we always check Dimmi for nearby hotspots and of course keep a watchful eye on all the food awards each year.”

New York, New York For Melbourne-based chef and food consultant Glenn Flood, New York – without a doubt – is the destination that gets him most inspired and excited. A melting pot of chefs, food lovers, creative types and entrepreneurs,

hospitality | November-December 2015

19

eatingabroad

Flood says that the intense competition and sheer variety that each borough boasts is what keeps the city at the top of the culinary world.

“You’ve got little Italy which has a great vibe going on, as does Soho. Then over on First Avenue you’ve got Luke’s Lobster Rolls and Momofuko and Katz’s Delicatessen on the Lower East Side…

I think the magic thing about it is that in one city, they’ve all got very distinctly different offerings. There are 18,000 restaurants on Manhattan Island and they are super competitive with each other, so no one can get away with a poor food offering.

If you’re not on the game, you’re out of the game.”

Outside of the Big Apple, Flood says Texas is one of the most exciting food destinations stateside.

Known primarily for its low and slow American barbecue, Flood says that the culture that surrounds food in the deep south together with the burgeoning presence of talented young operators is what makes the state’s food offering so unique.

“Texas has a beautiful southern American style of food running through it. There are so many sharp operators doing great cocktails and really delicious barbecue options, but what really impressed

Reuben Sandwich at Katz’s Deli in New York Inset left: Chef Glenn Flood at a traditional Texan barbecue Images: Glenn Flood

“They are super competitive with each other, so no one can get away with a poor food offering. If you’re not on the game, you’re out of the game.”

Street food markets in Bangkok Image: Glenn Flood

20

hospitality | November-December 2015

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

eatingabroad

me was that the presentation was just taken up a level. Texas is probably one of the more interesting destinations I’ve been to lately, just in terms of not knowing exactly what to expect and then turning up and being completely overwhelmed with the quality and the innovation coming through from a lot of young operators.”

The subcontinent and south east Asia also represent some of Flood’s most memorable feasting destinations. A relatively recent trip to Sri Lanka gave him a deeper appreciation for the classic Sri Lankan style curry which champions the unlikely ingredient of jackfruit. Thailand also features prominently on Flood’s favourite food destination list thanks to the countless street food stalls which are a breeding ground for all the weird and wonderful delicacies that Thai cuisine is known for.

“Whenever I’m out in a new country, I’m always happy to look at what’s happening in the local marketplaces. On a recent trip I was eyeing off fried crickets from a particular vendor, and I thought, ‘look it’s been a while since I’ve tried anything like that’ so I thought I’d give it a go, not thinking that I was actually going to enjoy it. They were so delicious that I grabbed a bag. They deep fry them to order and toss them through with a little seasoning. It was almost like a soy-based seasoning giving it a nice little bit of saltiness to go with the sweetness of the cricket. It was almost like eating pork crackling – you have one and then another and another. It was just a really weird and wonderful thing and even better because it was delicious; even my son loved them.”

Hong Kong via Canada Merivale’s Patrick Friesen was recently in Hong Kong as part of a menu research trip for one of the group’s upcoming launches, The Queen Victoria Hotel. With the aim of creating a Hong Kong street food inspired menu, Friesen says that he was more than happy to explore the more left of field offerings that the vibrant city has to offer.

“We basically just had a lot of food that you can only get in Hong Kong. My favourite place in Hong Kong is a place called Yat Lok Res-

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Thai street food

But I guess that’s how Asian restaurants usually feel.”

Outside of Asia, Friesen says that a recent trip back to his hometown of Winnipeg reminded him of some of the city’s wacky culinary traditions. According to Friesen, two of the city’s most iconic fast food dishes – the Fat Boy and the Goog – have never really made it outside of Canada’s borders, and although he has a soft spot for them, he’s not quite ready to introduce them to the Australian industry.

“Winnipeg is home to this type of burger called a Fat Boy which is sold out of little burger shacks. The Fat boy is a layer of American mustard, heaps of raw diced onion, a thin patty, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, heaps of cheese and chilli sauce on top – kind of like a chilli con carne but it’s more like mince in a spiced gravy. Last time Chef Patrick Hotel, Friesen says I was home, my cousFriesen variations that have in, brother and I went been altered to suit loaround the city to five or six cals tastes will be. take-away burger places and ate “Goose here is really expen- about six fat boys in one afternoon sive. It’s like $60 per goose so it’s just to see which the best one was. not really cost effective to put that “There’s another thing in Winon the menu. Instead we’ll be do- nipeg that’s really weird called the ing a very similar roast duck and Goog. A Goog is a blueberry milknoodle soup like Yat Lok does, shake, but built on top of it is a hot but we’ll be using duck instead of fudge sundae. So it’s a milkshake, goose. Sydneysiders get a little bit or what Australians call a thickwound up because they are used shake – there’s no thin milkshakes to having a lot of broth and not in Winnipeg; a thin milkshake is so much noodle, whereas in Hong just a shit shake – and then on top Kong, it’s all about the noodle they put soft serve, nuts and chocoand the broth is just there more as late sauce. So you drink the blueberlike a sauce really. A lot of people ry milkshake with a straw, but then don’t really get it so we just fuse you are eating a sundae off the top. the two to create a happy balance. It’s ridiculous; it’d kill you.”

Fat Boy burger in Winnipeg

taurant and all they do is a roast goose and you can either have it with noodles or rice. You can get veggies with it I think, but that’s pretty much it,” he says.

“There was another place out in Jordan where we had master stock braised giblets and chicken hearts with raw minced garlic and chilli oil, and then just down the street from that place we had these great northern-style hand sliced noodles.

What they do is shave off a big lot of dough into the boiling water as they go, kind of like they are peeling a carrot but with every strand going into the broth.”

While the likes of goose and hand cut noodles won’t be making the menu at The Queen Victoria

hospitality | November-December 2015

21

beefcompetition

Crying Tiger, smiling chef The inaugural #whatsyourbeef competition, created

by Meat and Livestock Australia in conjunction with Hospitality magazine, has been taken out by Melbourne’s Botherambo.

W

hat do Australia’s food lovers want from a lunch menu?

Well, first of all, it needs to offer food that can be prepared, plated and served quickly – lunch breaks are not to be wasted waiting in line or making idle chitchat with your boss at the table. It needs to be light enough to ensure you don’t want to nap under your desk for the rest of the afternoon, but satisfying enough to keep you away from the chocolate stash in your second drawer. And lastly, it can’t break the budget; that’s what dinner is for.

In order to recognise hospitality venues that are ticking all of these boxes, and also offering a good balance of protein, carbs and vegies on their lunch menus, Meat and Livestock Australia, together with Hospitality magazine, created the #whatsyourbeef industry competition.

We asked chefs across the country to take a picture of a dish that incorporates beef and post it on Facebook and/or Instagram with the hashtag #whatsyourbeef (check www.heychef.com.au to see all the entries).

22

hospitality | November-December 2015

After gallivanting across town taste-testing the fi nalists’ creations, the judges presented the winning crown to chef Kam McManamey of Botherambo, a south east Asian bar and restaurant in Richmond, Victoria. His Crying Tiger Beef dish, comprising Cape Grim beef tenderloin, ground rice, chilli, pickled carrot, cucumber and nam jim jiew was a standout and earned him a $250 King of Knives voucher and a meat cleaver signed by the one and only Marco Pierre White.

“The dish is grilled beef with a tamarind nam jim and it’s usually just served with some fresh herbs, a bit of cucumber and maybe some pickled vegetables. If you order it on the streets of Bangkok that’s what you’d get, basically. So we’ve just taken that and upgraded it,” McManamey told Hospitality.

“It’s a modern adaptation of a Thai street food dish. Obviously they wouldn’t use tenderloin and they wouldn’t set the tamarind sauce with agar.

“That’s what I’m all about at the moment: taking what’s essentially peasant food that is eaten on the

streets of Bangkok and preparing it in a more contemporary, restaurant-quality fashion.”

Botherambo seats approximately 100 people and opened in December 2014. McManamey previously launched and operated BangPop on South Wharf and worked under chef Geoff Lindsay (winner of the MLA’s inaugural Masterpieces secondary cuts competition in 2014) at his Vietnamese restaurant, Dandelion. At Botherambo, he’s on a mission to give Asian street food favourites a modern makeover.

“Our offering is predominantly Thai, north eastern Thai influenced, but then it’s modernised or refi ned –

I guess that’s the best way to put it.

All the recipes are authentic and it’s an Esan-style street food but set in a more contemporary, western way.

So the presentation is a bit more refi ned and there’s a more technical approach to fi nishing the food. We use Pacojets and water baths and smoking guns and the sous vide,” he says.

The winning dish While Botherambo’s Crying Tiger Beef dish is pretty close to the classic in regards to its flavours and textures, the key difference is the use of a primal beef cut – the tenderloin.

“The tenderloin hasn’t got the most

Judges’ comments…

“With a tendency for lunchtime beef dishes to be limited to more traditional items like burgers and steak sandwiches, Botherambo’s dish showcases the versatility of beef in a light, fresh and flavoursome execution. The beef is tender, beautifully cooked and well portioned and the accompanying pickled carrot and cucumber salad brings a freshness and zing that perfectly complements the beef. The nim jam jiew is delicately portioned around the dish allowing the diner to dictate how much additional flavour to add whilst the ground rice adds the occasional hit of crunchy texture.

All of the finalists’ dishes were wonderful examples of how a little innovation and exploration in the kitchen can deliver beef dishes that push the boundaries of what we think we know about beef, allowing consumers to experience new flavours and executions of their favourite protein.”

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

beefcompetition

Best in beef: fellow #whatsyourbeef finalists 1. Ripples, Milsons Point Beef cheek, sauce ravigote, pickled shallots, roman gnocchi, red wine jus

2. Antoine’s Grill, Concord Beef cheek raviolo, slowly cooked in red wine, cauliflower, lemon myrtle, cacao

3. Imperial Hotel, Paddington Beef short rib “shnitty” with smokey eggplant, Tuscan kale and mustard cream

4. Distillery Woodfire, Minchinbury 21hr sous vide beef cheeks, pumpkin purée, coriander crisps, parsley oil, chilli, beef jus, micro herbs

flavour, obviously, but just in terms of texture, it is a superior cut of beef. I wanted to refine the dish as much as I possibly could, so tenderloin was just the appropriate cut to use.”

McManamey says the dish has been on the lunch menu for about six months, and was first offered to lunchtime customers because it was a favourite during the night.

“A lot of the front of house boys like it, so they sell it. Every other table just about has it,” he says.

“The strategy behind having that on the lunch menu was that obviously people were enjoying it, it’s a big seller, and would draw clientele in.

It’s quite light too; it’s more of an entrée size than a main course size, and that appeals to a lot of people too.

“There are quite a few creative offices around here. Mecca (Cosmetics) has a big office here, so there are quite a few young ladies that frequent the area for lunch, so we try to keep the lunch menu light, healthy and clean and I think the Crying Tiger dish definitely works within those parameters.”

McManamey says today’s lunchtime menus need to be ”lighter, cleaner and quicker”, arguing that diners are moving away from ordering larger serves of red meat, like steaks, in the middle of the day.

“With the Crying Tiger, it’s a 100-120g portion of beef, so it’s enough animal protein to leave you sated but not so much that you have

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

to wait half an hour for it and then you have to get through it as well.”

Other beefy lunch options at Botherambo include the Salted Beef – Cape Grim tenderloin with kohlrabi, jackfruit, chilli, mint, coriander, ground rice; the Chang Mai Wagyu beef curry with Darling Downs wagyu, green mango, snake bean, dill, chilli; and the 18 hour beef cheek – the venue’s signature dish – which comprises green mango, salted prawn, herbs, nam jim jiew, mandarin, kaffir lime and chilli salt.

In regards to future lunchtime options, McManamey is looking towards secondary cuts. “Those kind of things go really well in noodle soups – pho and things like that.

There’s definitely room to use secondary cuts and those braise style beef cuts in lighter dishes. Perhaps not in a salad, but definitely in a nice clear broth with noodles.

“We’re also looking at developing banh mi, which is a Vietnamese street style baguette. We’re developing a few things there, and I’m always looking at putting on lighter curries for the summer time, while working with some secondary cuts.

I prefer working with secondary cuts because it’s quite easy to just cook a steak, but when you’re dealing with secondaries and things like intercostals and shins, it involves a bit more skill and a bit more talent. So we’re definitely looking at secondaries as much as the primal cuts.”

Crying Tiger Beef Beef • 4 x 100 -120g Cape Grim tenderloin portions, seasoned with vegetable oil, sea salt and white pepper, then cryovaced and waterbathed at 54C for 45 mins.

Pickle • 1 medium size carrot, peeled and julienned • 1 small daikon radish, pelled and juilenned

Pickle solution • 40ml rice vinegar • 80ml water • 40g palm sugar Dissolve palm sugar into vinegar and water. Cover vegetables with the solution, and rest at room temperature for 6 hours.

Nam jim jiew • 60g grilled shallot • 36g grilled garlic Puree shallot and garlic.

• 125ml tamarind water • 33ml fish sauce • 56ml palm sugar • 2g agar Combine liquids and agar, boil for 3 minutes. Mix all ingredients set in the fridge. Puree to gel consistency in blender.

Chilli salt • ½ tsp dried chilli flakes • ½ tsp sea salt crystals • 1tsp white sugar Blitz in bar blender, fine pass and reserve.

Ground rice • 20g raw glutinous rice Dry roast rice in a pan until fragrant and golden brown. Blitz in blender to powder consistency. Fine pass and reserve.

• 60g cucumber, deseeded and finely sliced • 60g green onion, finely sliced • ½ punnet micro thai basil, reserved in ice water.

Construction Seal beef on char grill then rest in a warm place for 10-15 minutes. Whilst resting, construct the salad with the drained pickled vegetables, green onion and cucumber. Carve the beef, then construct the plate with the salad, jim jiew, finish with the chilli salt, ground rice and micro herbs.

hospitality | November-December 2015

23

2016trends

What can we expect from 2016?

The Fink Group had a stellar 2015, opening two of the hottest venues of the year: Firedoor and Bennelong. Here, director John Fink has a guess at which trends will be influencing foodservice over the next 12 months.

I

s it really nearing the end of the year? It seems like the Christmas rush was only yesterday, then someone blinked and here we are again: staring down the barrel of two months of head-down, bumup festive season trading. How time flies when you’re having fun.

It’s been a barrel of fun at the Fink Group, with two restaurants successfully opening in six months, and a slew of accolades across the six restaurants in our portfolio.

Someone pinch me! This is the time of year when we assess where we are at, and where we are headed. A time to take stock; look backwards to see forwards.

This year has seen a rapid expansion of possibilities – especially along the east coast of Austral-

ia, with the refurb of the Sydney Convention Centre, the casinos in Brisbane and Sydney, and Lend Lease’s massive Barangaroo restaurant complex. Expect to see a lot of activity at Barangaroo next year.

With Matt Moran as headline act, there will be plenty of options available to the public along Barangaroo’s eat street.

1. The ‘casual’ expansion The coming year will see fine dining alive and well, and everyday dining getting finer.

Look out for “small” restaurants opening up throughout 2016, but do not be fooled: these smaller, less expensive places will be operated by business-savvy restaurateurs and restaurant-savvy business folk.

Think Neil Perry’s Burger Project, for example. Having successfully opened two in Sydney, I would be very surprised if chef Perry didn’t roll that brand out across the city and the nation. I anticipate more strongly-themed hole-in-the-walls touting pulled pork rolls, lobster rolls, Bibimbap and the like. It makes sense in terms of streamlined production, food costs, and wage efficiencies.

for hedonism; folk are less inclined to get a new television, preferring to spend that money on creating joyous memories with family and friends in a restaurant.

With shows like Masterchef continuing to inspire the public about food and, ergo, the restaurants that serve it, the customer base is ever increasing and educated. The modern Australian diner is growing up, and fast.

2. A growing appetite

3. Staffing struggles

You might think that with all these new restaurants opening up, the customer pool will shrink. Thankfully, this is not so. Australians are hungry. As the restaurant industry expands, so does the market. Australians are eschewing materialism

Perversely, the growth of Australia’s dining scene is not matched behind the scenes. From sink to stove, and floor to door, finding (and keeping) staff is an ever increasing challenge.

Australian hospitality talent is by far some of the best in the world,

Restaurant Australia’s MoNA dinner

24

hospitality | November-December 2015

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

2016trends

but the pool is thin on the ground.

Some captains of the industry are stepping up to the plate: James Packer has an indigenous traineeship, Neil Perry, Guillaume Brahimi and Barry McDonald have swathed a similar path. René Redzepi’s Noma Sydney has a stage program set up in conjunction with Restaurant & Catering Australia.

Eight years ago Masterchef hit the small screens and inspired young Australians to want to grow up and work in the industry. Many of these kids will be fi nishing their HSC and hitting schoolies before heading out to fi nd a job. I hope to see more activity in the training and apprenticeship space in 2016 and beyond.

The coming year will see a lot of conversations in as many forums, which is all well and good, but if the restaurant game is going to truly thrive, solutions to the immediate staff shortage problem need to land on the table. One valuable source of skill is international staff, most especially the Europeans, who consider hospitality a profession, not something you do while waiting to work out what you want to do with your life.

The Australian restaurant industry needs more skilled labour – plain and simple. The 457 visa limitations and student visa working hours are highly regulated channels that need to be adjusted if the restaurant and associated tourism industry is going to survive and thrive. Tourism is one of Australia’s top industries, worth over $250 billion to the Australian economy, and it deserves support from the Turnbull government to remove growth hindrances.

4. The Australian story The top end of town has never been as exciting as it is today. Recognising fi ne dining as one of Australia’s best assets, Tourism Australia invested many millions of dollars in the Restaurant Australia campaign.

After a successful launch in May 2014, Restaurant Australia invited 80 of the world’s most respected fi ne dining opinion prescribers to quite possibly the biggest dinner party Australia has ever seen. Held at Tasmania’s Museum of Old and New Art (MoNA), it was a smashing success, and something I was very proud to participate in.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

2015 has seen direct benefits from the ongoing campaign, and there are more to come in 2016. Marry the Tourism Australia campaign with Heston Blumenthal opening a Fat Duck in Melbourne, and René Redzepi’s Noma popping up in the Lend Lease Barangaroo district – the fi ne dining scene should expect a bumper crop for 2016.

Redzepi is a relentlessly inquisitive chef. How strange that it took a dane’s curious fascination with indigenous ingredients to re-ignite the question “what is Australian cuisine?” The question has often been asked, but as Australian fi ne dining seamlessly slots into and contrasts with the international scene, the heat has been turned up and the industry is headed in the right direction.

Chefs at the top of their game like Ben Shewry, Peter Gilmore and Martin Benn are increasingly focused on the question. It’s not just about bush tucker; unless there is context for the use of indigenous ingredients, one risks falling into tokenism. Don’t get me wrong, chefs like Jock Zonfrillo are having a great time exploring the bounty of the land, and with stunning results, but that is only one piece of the puzzle.

Australia is a multicultural nation, with many cuisines. Australia embraces Chinese, Afghan, Italian, Greek, British and Vietnamese flavours, but Australia doesn’t have an Australian cuisine. To my mind, Australian cuisine is an object in an empty box. It’s Schrödinger’s cat. A question with no answer.

While Shewry, Gilmore and Benn have different culinary approaches, all agree on two things.

Firstly that Australian cuisine is centred around provenance; quality produce procured in a sustainable and ethical manner. Second, and most interesting: Australian kitchen technique is not cemented to any one discipline. Australian fi ne dining chefs are the bower birds of culinary method, borrowing from east and west alike. It’s really exciting to watch, and I look forward to fi nding out what they learn as they press in to the coming year. I hope they fi nd the answer, because if they do, people around the world can fi nally go out to eat Australian.

Our business helping yours Get a quote: nrma.com.au 132 818 In branch

BUSINESS INSURANCE NRMADE BETTER

hospitality | November-December 2015

25

managementcomment

What lies ahead…

In the lead-up to the Bah Humbug season, Hospitality’s very own Scrooge, Tony Berry, reflects on the challenges that hospitality operators faced in 2015 – and will no doubt see again next year.

M

y friendly hoteliers sort of survived the unwarranted and unwanted penalties heaped upon them by officialdom’s mad decision to declare yet one more public holiday in Victoria (See my column in last month’s Hospitality for all the absurd details).

But there’s survival, and there’s just scraping by. Which is really what they, and hundreds of others like them are managing to do.

Hardly had they battled through the nonsense of enforced additional wages for staff working on this new public holiday than they faced the hurdle of penalty rates for a day marking the running of a horse race.

Fortunately, that was the last of this year’s plethora of such occasions apart, of course, from the weekly weekends and the looming Bah Humbug season. At least these are known obstacles on the road to profitable trading.

Goodness knows, however, what next year might bring if there is a continuation of this penchant for gazetting any event at which a crowd might gather as worthy of downing tools. That fume-ridden, decibel-laden, anti-environmental display of machismo and testosterone known as the Grand Prix is surely ripe for being declared a public holiday. After all, its losses are

26

hospitality | November-December 2015

Tony Berry

estimated only at a mere $60 million. So why not reinforce its role as a parasitic burden on our finances by adding another day off when businesses can either go without income or plod on paying wages that produce the same result?

Then there’s the Australian Open. The country is already as good as closed for business throughout January so we might as

of split shifts and hours that sat uneasily alongside family needs.

The problem, of course, is that eternal gap between management’s view of their market (i.e. what sells) and the chef’s ideas of what the punters should be ordering. And the gap tends to widen the further one ventures from the downtown and trendier inner suburban areas of our major cities.

“But there’s survival, and there’s just scraping by. Which is really what they, and hundreds of others like them are managing to do.” well give the month a further poor housekeeping seal of approval.

Your scribe’s over-burdened hotelier pals, who summed up 2015 as a break-even year, had other issues to consider when assessing the damage of the two most recent sport-induced public holidays. The head chef had decided to move on.

As they do. Frequently.

There were no tantrums, no sudden walk-outs, cussing or bad behaviour. Partly it was a case of not being stretched enough by the menu he was required to adhere to; and partly the perennial problem

Much as we ogle and salivate at the wondrous creations pictured on TV and in the foodie sections of the media, it is the tried and true old-timers and “safe” combinations that tickle our fancy when ordering our dine-out meals. There is many a chef (and many an owner, too, no doubt) who would like to be more adventurous with their menus but the market is too widespread and too fickle to risk one’s bottom line with such a gamble.

As my hotelier mates put it, “the chef didn’t want to do the pub meal type of menu; he is a city lad and

wanted all the fancy stuff and to put prices up with no difference in the public bar.”

They accept that “like it or not, we are the local pub” and therefore to do as the chef wanted would lose them business. And they do have a specials board offering at least four dishes aimed at people wanting a wider choice and something a bit different – and which can justify higher prices.

So, in culinary and marketing terms, which comes first – the chicken or the egg? Be sure of steady custom with the safe and familiar, or hope (and that’s all it is) for an expanded clientele with trickier and trendier dishes?

The immediate solution has been to promote the keen and much younger sous chef. This offers them the chance to demonstrate skills and ideas that have of necessity been kept in check. They also have a more flexible attitude to the working hours than their much older departing superior.

In support they get the pub’s former head chef who returns as sous chef, because they didn’t want the responsibility of the top job – and have been unable to find full time work locally.

And there, in a nutshell, is a triple-whammy of long standing issues mirrored throughout the country in the mainstay of our industry.

Welcome to 2016.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

managementcomment

Don’t be FORGOTTEN With so many restaurants and cafes for you to compete with, make sure you do everything you can to ensure your patrons return for another visit. By Ken Burgin.

U

nless you’re a major industry icon, or you’ve been around for 20 years, most people don’t remember your business name. There are just too many other places popping up all the time. But there’s a lot you can do to make your name noticeable and remembered.

True story: two people in a café, one on the phone. She looks at her friend and asks ‘what’s the name of this place?’...and the friend doesn’t know. Worse, there was nothing inside the café to tell them – no signs on the wall, nothing on the table or staff uniforms. Future business lost, for sure.

So before you go spending big bucks on expensive promotions, check that you’ve covered all the small, personal promotional items within your four walls, and have a regular reminder program on social media. You could double your business if everyone came back more than once. So make sure that: 1. The name is on awnings and the front window – if it’s only on the awning people walking or driving by may not see it. It should also be on the wall and menus too, and, if appropriate, the company cars.

2. The name and contact details are on the docket.

3. You have business cards for people to keep. Make sure they’re handed out with every single receipt.

4. The business name is on staff uniforms – it’s just as important as the staff member’s name.

5. The business name is added to menu items. At Café Troppo we had the ‘Troppo Burger’ and

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

‘Troppo Trifle’ – distinctive and memorable.

6. Have a prominent website address – and print it as big as every other mention of your name. If it’s not logical eg hgc. com instead of HillsideGolfClub.com, register the easier name as well, and have them both directing to the same site.

7. Put real faces on the website – happy staff and happy customers, plus business owners and managers, as well as a short bio.

8. Keep a low cost ‘drip feed’ Facebook awareness ad running, targeted to your local area and visible to the customers you want. Set a budget of say $3 per day – it keeps your name in front of current and future fans.

9. Have an auto-response for inquiry emails. It automatically bounces back with something like ‘Thanks for your inquiry, we will be in touch shortly.’

10. Do some basic Search Engine Optimisation on your website so when people Google for ‘pizza in Redcliff’, you’re on the top of the list.

And let’s not overlook the basics, which tie positive emotions to your name: • Efficient, friendly and attentive service: you only employ happy Harry or Hannah. Nasty Nancy and Grim Gary get the flick.

• A personal acknowledgement: ‘Thank you Mr Burgin’ – when my credit card is brought back to me, or when my account details are present, for example at the till. If Qantas can do it loading 200 people on a plane, you can do it too!

hospitality | November-December 2015

27

industryobserver

Breaking bread Sure, margins are tight in the foodservice game - we all know it. But is it really OK to charge for bread and water? Industry Observer shares his thoughts.

B

read and water. On one hand they’re seen as basic human needs; on the other, a profit opportunity.

I remember instructing waiters to get out and flog the herb and garlic bread options to try and get an extra few dollars attached to the tab, but charging for water just never seemed right. However when selling pallets of water to nightclubs became part of my product portfolio and my targets needed to be met, having a customer pay for water seemed like a great idea. Isn’t it funny how your priorities can change depending on circumstance?

Restaurants will always be innovators and they have found any number of great ways to sell bread to the customer, who will in turn feel that they have received a fair exchange in the value stakes – there have been individual cob loaves, terracotta pot bread and any number of herbs and flavourings to raise the humble loaf above the mundane. But if those offerings don’t entice, am I entitled to ask for plain bread and butter? Is it my dining right? Even prisoners get it…

Perhaps I’m just being a dinosaur and wanting something for nothing, but my expectation is that it should be part of the service. I

28

hospitality | November-December 2015

look to excellent examples of how generously it can be done in a place as traditionally French as France Soir, where the brilliant baguette just keeps arriving (until my beloved steps in) or as contemporary as Pei Modern, where, on lauding to the waiter of the quality of the bread, I was told a story of how they have kept the same starter culture for many years and bought it to

(and pubs and clubs) that allow the standards to slip by wanting to charge me for the privilege of bread provision and then not have a clue about the rules of serving it anyway.

If you are going to provide bread, please instruct your floor staff about the protocols of how to manage it: side plates are a help and, if you are going to put a side plate out, clear it when you clear main course,

“Perhaps I’m just being a dinosaur and wanting something for nothing, but my expectation is that it should be part of the service.”

Melbourne from Sydney. This was indeed a restaurant proud of the house loaf – and I was rewarded for my interest with one wrapped for me to take home. Does this mean that at some stage the cost of the bread has been added to one of the other courses? Naturally, but so it should be.

Perhaps it’s a cultural thing and buried in the traditions of the cuisine; in a French ‘based’ café, it would be considered a travesty to not offer bread of decent quality, but I don’t expect the same thing from a Yum Cha palace. As usual, it is the middle ground of restaurants

not entrée. The whole point of a bit of bread is to grab the last remnants of the sauce from the plate and clean the palate, fit for dessert. It goes back to the days when the chef saucier held a place of honour in the kitchen, toiling and refi ning sauces for hours to get the perfect flavour and consistency.

Do we expect the same from our water dispenser? Should the customer ever be charged for water from a tap, fi ltered or not? My belief is that if you are providing a basic human need, then it’s a little unseemly to charge, but it happens. Understandably, in places where the tap water

is next to undrinkable bottled water is a necessity. However, if you have sought out a special bubbly water, harvested and bottled in a far flung land, fi ne; charge away (it always amuses me that Evian spelled backwards is ‘naïve’ – it’s a marketing bloke’s dream).

My observation is that this is actually a changing ground, and for the better, where more businesses, particularly in that ‘middle ground’, are getting on board with just having water available. I always worked on the theory that more water meant less drunks as you could steer a particularly thirsty soul toward a couple of refreshing glasses of ‘adam’s ale’ to fill the liquid need without increasing their alcohol intake. They’ll thank you for it in the morning….

So, the question remains about where you, the establishments, see yourselves on the service spectrum in regards to bread and water. Do you have a foot in each camp and charge for one and not the other, or are you leaning toward the benevolent for both? Clearly I think that they should be offered, not hidden away, and if you are going to provide bread, make it good.

The punters will remember you fondly for it. It’s a small price to pay for generosity.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

shelfspace

1

2

3

1. Plancha power

2. Set for summer

3. Slim bin from Slim Jim

Adventys has introduced a new induction plancha designed for those requiring specific temperature control - the Adventys BGIC3000.

It features precise temperature controls – from 50 degrees Celsius to 280 degrees Celsius.

The temperature accuracy means it is also ideal for operations with less skilled labour, as the four-digit display shows the actual cooking temperature while three programmable power buttons can be pre-set for ease of use. www.phoeniks.com.au

Cricketers Arms has launched its Cricketers Arms Scorcher Summer Ale, double hopped using a combination of Galaxy and Cricketers Arms’ signature hop, Amarillo, delivering a non-filtered cloudy ale with citrus and tropical aromas. The Cricketers Arms Scorcher Summer Ale will complement the existing product range including Spearhead Pale Ale, Keeper’s Lager and Captain’s IPA and will be available on and off premise in bottles, cans and 49.5L kegs. www.asahipremiumbeverages.com

Rubbermaid Commercial Products has launched the Slim Jim Step-On refuse containers, with a 20 percent smaller footprint and a slim profile. The hands-free container features a built-in lid dampener that ensures a quiet and controlled lid closure that minimises noise. The lid’s hinge is located inside the container which prevents wall damage. The Slim Jim Step-On is available in five sizes and in front-step or end-step styles. www.rubbermaidcommercial.com.au

Simply, the same great taste in a great new pack THE PROFESSIONAL’S CHOICE

1300 782 764 wilmar.com.au

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

hospitality | November-December 2015

29

eventscalendar

hospitalitydiary DECEMBER 28 – 3 January, 2016, Taste of Tasmania The Taste of Tasmania is one of Australia’s most popular food festivals, where stallholders present a variety of dishes showcasing Tasmanian produce and producers. The festival, taking place in Hobart, also hosts a New Year’s Eve party with live entertainment, culminating in the midnight fireworks.

In 2015/16, there will be exciting new stallholders, as well as a range of old favourites, with attending brands such as Ashgrove Cheese, Nocton Vineyard, Red Brick Road Cider, King Island Cheese, Huon Valley Seafoods, Josef Chromy Wines and Willie Smith’s Organic Cider. Visitors can learn directly from the producers by taking a Food Tour or joining a Tasting Table. www.thetasteoftasmania.com.au

APRIL 10-12, Fine Food Queensland Fine Food Queensland is a trade event that caters for Queensland’s burgeoning foodservice, hospitality and food retail industries. Held at the Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, the

show brings together over 200 exhibitors and 5,000 visitors to do business and celebrate new ideas and innovation in the food industry, with sectors including food, catering equipment, refrigeration, tableware, bakery, retail equipment, and packaging. In addition to thousands of new products on the show floor, the 2016 event will see a comprehensive program of business discussion panels and educational sessions. www.finefoodqueensland.com.au

MAY 22-24, Foodservice Australia Next year’s Foodservice Australia show in Sydney will include a new patisserie competition and a Foodservice Conference on the show fl oor. The patisserie competition will be organised by pastry icon Kirsten Tibballs, while the Foodservice Conference will be supported by Restaurant & Catering Australia to “bring insights from the industry’s movers and shakers in an accessible and low-cost format.” The new one day restaurant conference will give hospitality operators the chance

World’s First CommerCial-ready Cold PrEss sloW JuiCEr ProFEssioNAl Cold PrEssEd JuiCEr Top QualiTy JuiCing oN dEmANd solutioN

• 8 hours continuous juicing • 40L per hour • Better nutrition, more flavour

• Increase yield • 30% quieter

8 hours

continuous juicing

Call to book a demo 02 9798 0586 or visit www.kuvings.net.au 30

hospitality | November-December 2015

P R O D U C T S

to hear from industry experts and successful operators. Delegates will be able to pick up the latest food trends from around the world, gain practical business tips, see masterclasses from leading chefs, learn social media strategies, contribute to open discussions on industry issues and enjoy networking over lunch. www.foodserviceaustralia.com.au

SEPTEMBER 12-15, Fine Food Australia Fine Food Australia alternates between Sydney and Melbourne each September, and in 2016 it returns to Melbourne’s Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Running for four days, the event sees hundreds of exhibitors showcasing their latest and greatest products, ranging from food to cooking equipment, POS technologies and tableware elements.

Highlights of the show include the Live Bakery, Chef’s Live demonstrations and New Product showcases, as well as the annual Nestle Golden Chefs’ Hat competition and the Great Aussie Pie and Sausage Roll competition. www.finefoodaustralia.com.au

Lunchbox Solutions – Verde Gluten Free We are very excited to be bringing together the best gluten free ingredients on the market and using packaging innovations to deliver a first class gluten free sandwich offer that doesn’t compromise on flavour or quality.

Products come individually packaged and the toastie bag is designed to be used in ovens and toasting equipment.

It is estimated that 2.6 million Australian’s are following a gluten free diet and this trend is increasing. Every batch we produce is independently tested and certified to make sure it is 100% gluten free.

For more information contact Lunchbox Solutions on 1300 722 748.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Are you looking for products for your business?

Look no further.

Go to gohospitality.com.au Australia’s number 1 hospitality directory

Convotherm 4 Designed around you Because we listen to you, the new Convotherm 4 range has been developed around your needs in the kitchen. With two control-panel designs – easyTouch and easyDial - 7 capacity options, and 28 models to choose from, you will have the degree of control you need.

Convotherm 4 has been re-designed, and brings a new benchmark in combi-steamer cooking.

Lower operating costs whilst helping the environment -

Redefined: clear design meets functionality -

The new Convotherm 4 design is ideal for front-of-house cooking.

Aesthetics are combined with a new dimension in intuitive operation and straight forward servicing.

Every watt and litre count.

Convotherm 4 stands for the requirement on energy efficiency and minimal water consumption.

The new standard in flexible, reliable cleaning -

Your cooking results in focus -

The Advanced Closed System+ (ACS+) offers perfection in the third generation. Delivering the ultimate in even cooking, with optimised results to your requirements.

Convoclean+ and Convoclean have been developed to deliver maximum flexibility with minimum consumption.

Automatic cleaning means chemical contact is avoided.

To find out more about how you can experience the new Convotherm 4 way of cooking, contact Moffat on 1800 023 953 or visit www.moffat.com.au

Your meal. Our mission.

VIC/TAS/SA vsales@moffat.com.au, NSW nswsales@moffat.com.au, QLD qldsales@moffat.com.au, WA bgarcia@moffat.com.au moffat.com.au f ffat.com.au Free Phone1800 023 953

MOFFAT 1423 8/14