hog_Touristic Guide Bucharest and Whereabouts by Florin Curavale

Tourist Guide

Bucharest and Whereabouts

Editors:

Mådålin-Cristian Foc¿a Oana Bicå

Collaborators: Råzvan-Andrei Voinea Iulia Olariu Dana Dolghin Victor Scutelnicu Ionu¡ Stan Marius Andrei Corector:

Daniel Voicea

Translation:

Pia Maria Luttman and Mihaela Nåståsescu

Art director: Layout:

Daniela Nae Bogdan Coscaru Florin Curåvale

Cover photo:

Cristina Dumitru

Publishing house specialized in thematic and tourist guides with a special graphic. All the titles benefit of expert counseling.

Descrierea CIP a Bibliotecii Na¡ionale a României Tourist Guide – Bucharest and Whereabouts Bucharest: House of Guides, 2009 ISBN 978-606-513-059-3 913(498 Buc.)

Table of Contents Enjoy your City, enjoy Bucharest! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Milestones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Bucharest? Nice to Meet You! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Useful info and addresses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Top3 Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Memories of the City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 The Land and its People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Top3 Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Top3 Scenery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Top3 Flowers and Animals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 The Inhabitants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Top3 Historical Figures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Top3 Political Personalities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Top3 Mayors of the Capital . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Top3 Scientists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Top3 Writers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Top3 Musicians . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Superlatives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Top3 Places that must not be missed . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Top3 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Top3 Items of Romaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Treasure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Top3 Old Buildings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Top3 Nature Reserves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Top3 Palaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Top3 Gardens and Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Top3 Monasteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Walking through the City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Route 1: Bucharest’s Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Route 2: Victoriei Avenue (I) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Route 3: Victoriei Avenue (II) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Route 4: Gardens and Villas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Route 5: The “Outside” Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Route 6: The Civic Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Route 7: Cotroceni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Route 8: The Promenade. Museums and Parks . . . . . . .74 Route 9: Peace and Quiet in the Bosom of Mother Nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Bucharest Curiosities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 Away from the Crowd of the City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 1. The Snagov Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 2. The Vlåsiei Forest Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 3. The Ialomi¡a-Prahova Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 4. The Pasårea-Cernica Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 5. The Olteni¡a Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 6. The Herå¿ti Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 7. The “Neajlov Delta” Route (Comana-Cålugåreni) . .100 8. The Vla¿ca Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 9. The Arge¿ Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 10. The Mogo¿oaia Route (Buftea – Titu) . . . . . . . . . . .108 SOS: A City in Danger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Where to stay, Where to eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Photo Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

Enjoy your town, enjoy Bucharest! We are now in the middle of a time of celebration – this year, our capital city can proudly rejoice the day of a dignified anniversary… there have elapsed 550 years since the first documentary mention of Bucharest. On September 20th, the year 1459, the prince Vlad ºepe¿ made the first mention of Bucharest in a document which confirmed a donation made to some feudal lords. It is the very moment we can designate as proof of the existence of Bucharest as a distinct unit of territorial administration, inscribed as such in an official document. I wanted to recount the summary of this historical event, because I’m not sure how many of our children know about it. It is easy to forget one’s past, but the past is a cornerstone of our contemporary life. Bucur’s citadel has witnessed continuous growth and prosperity along the ages and it has developed to the city that is now opening its gates towards Europe and the entire world. It is the city of my childhood and the city where I went to school and college. Bucharest is the city I love now and forever, no matter how far and wide I may have travelled the world, as for me it is MY HOME. I have struggled for Bucharest and will go on fighting for its welfare, because I strongly believe that its slight imperfections can be straightened out and that, no matter how difficult the stages of its transformation may be, the capital of Romania is always changing and evolving. Bucharest is very alive and constantly on the move, and the inhabitants contribute to it by each and every step, thus working on the transformation of the city into the actual cosmopolitan one as we all know it. Bucharest belongs to us and it is quite natural for each of us to lay a brick to the making of the city’s positive change. And now, in this time of celebration, it is but natural to rejoice in the beauty of Bucharest! GENERAL MAYOR, Prof. dr. Sorin Mircea OPRESCU

Capital’s Milestones

1. The Romanian Athenaeum

uilt on public contribution (the famous motto “Give one Leu for the Athenaeum”), this temple of Romanian arts and culture became in a short time the symbol of the “Little Paris”. Its exterior catches the eye by its richly adorned dome, bordered by a gallery supported on six Ionic columns; the interior is surprising for its extremely elegant halls. It has a grand Rotunda and a splendid Great Concert Hall, with a painted fresco (25 separate scenes)

depicting moments of Romania’s history. An important event in the life story of the Athenaeum was recorded on March 1, 1898, when under its dome were heard the sounds of the Romanian Poem for the first time, the symphonic suite being conducted by its very composer, George Enescu. During the bombing raids of the Second World War, some of the buildings near the concert hall were hit, but the Athenaeum was left untouched.

Entrance to the concert hall

Rotonda (the circular hall) of the Athenaeum

2. The Metropolitan Cathedral

he architectural ensemble on the Hill of the Patriarchal Church (known as Dealul Mitropoliei), is an important point on a sightseeing tour. Most interesting is the Cathedral itself. Primary it was the old monastery with the patrons “Saint Emperors Constantine and Elena”, founded in 1658. In 1668, it became Metropolitan Church. In 1925, when the Romanian Orthodox Church was organized as a Patriarchal Church, the Metropolitan Cathedral became the Patriarchal Cathedral. This ensemble also includes the Residence of the Patriarch - the oldest part of the building (the chapel) being erected at the same time as the Cathedral,

the Bell Tower (1698) and the Patriarchal Palace (1907); the Palace is the first building in Romania where reinforced concrete was put to work. Originally, the Palace was the seat of the Assembly of Deputies.

The Patriarchal Palace (formerly the Chamber of Deputies)

The Metropolitan ensemble at 1850 – reconstruction

3. Casa Poporului (People’s House)

he second largest building in the world – after the Pentagon – it’s something that you can’t miss, as it can be seen from the Moon. After 1977, Ceau¿escu decided to reconstruct the centre of the city in a monumental communist style, and his plan included also this huge building. Starting in 1980, over 7 square km of old houses were torn down and 40,000 people were displaced

from their old homes. The key stone was laid in 1984, but the building is still unfinished up to now. It has tremendously large corridors, laid out with miles of carpets and rows of chandeliers which can weigh up to 3 tons each, spreading a lighting power of 7,000 bulbs, and all materials used for the erection are of 100% Romanian origin. Since 2004, this palace is the seat of both Parliament chambers.

Pieces of “Little Paris”: the C.E.C. Palace, The Stock Exchange Palace, the Bragadiru Palace

The Capital of Romania Bucharest is the town where everything is possible. It is the true brand of Romania, and displays a mixture of experiences and emotions. It preserves the traces of European civilization all over the place, but many of its inhabitants are at odds with it. Looking around, one can discover at the same time features reminding of the Gates of the East, but also of the “Little Paris”. This city is the place were the heart of the entire Romanian society beats, but simultaneously the place where all its pains, failures and mishaps are best collected. So that, considering its diversity, it is a typical European metropolis. Please come along to discover the city…

he first documentary proof of the city’s existence dates back from 1459, when it was mentioned in a document issued by Vlad the Impaler (see right). The capital rose in the midst of the legendary Vlåsia Forest, which can be found in the symbols on the crest of the Vla¿ca region (this name means “the Romanians” in Paleoslavonic language). In fact, the name of the other zone neighbouring the city – Ilfov – originates in the same language and it means “alder-tree grove”. The present pages speak about this entire realm – almost identical to the area of the oldtime counties Ilfov and Vla¿ca.

The Legend about Bucur the Shepherd Like almost every big city, the Romanian capital has got its name from a legend. They say that a shepherd called Bucur used to have his dwelling in these places, and he had settled with his flock of sheep on the very spot of the present-day RaduVodå Hill. It is said that he established the settlement after having stood against several Tartar attacks; he made a bridge over the Dâmbovi¡a river and built a little church named after him. (see Route 6 Bucharest).

The coat of arms of the municipality of Bucharest shows Saint Demetrius of Thessaloniki, thus carrying on a 150 years mistake – in fact, the patron saint of the city is the St. Demetrius Basarabov “the New” (see photo), whose relics are sheltered in the Metropolitan Church. The motto “the Homeland and My Right”, dating from the 19th century, fill out the town’s coat of arms, next to the eagle bearing the crown of Mircea the Elder.

BUCHAREST? Nice to Meet You! Some information on this city, on its infrastructure or on accommodation and board opportunities, as well as some useful addresses, could come in very handy when one seems to be lost in the city maze. The next pages are a humble helping hand and, at the same time, an introduction to the ancient borough on the DĂ˘mboviÂĄa, which you will be able to discover somewhat better in the following chapters.

Bucharest and Whereabouts

What do we have to know before we start to explore Romania’s capital?

he municipality of Bucharest extends on more than 200 km2. This wide area is due to the fact that, around the prewar city itself, there have rise the enormous districts of blocks of flats erected along with the forced urban development practiced during the communism. They are of absolutely no tourist interest, so that the few worthy sights in such areas will be included in the ”Whereabouts” section of this guide. From one very end to the other of the city there is a distance of well more than 10 km, but within the tourist sightseeing perimeter no place to visit lies 2-3 km farther from downtown. The city is inhabited officially by 2 million people but, in fact, their number is at least double. Consequently, traffic is extremely crowded, particularly at rush hours (7:0010:00 and 15:00-19:00).

Generally, the infrastructure has not changed much since 1990, but the number of vehicles has increased more than 10 times. Saturdays and Sundays are the best days to visit the city, and as regarding the seasons, we would recommend first of all spring, and then fall. The extreme heat in summer and the difficult traffic in winter will make potential visitors to prefer at such times to keep closer to nearby places or the friendly interior of museums. Although it is one of the safest European capitals, Bucharest has still some problems with stray dogs and pickpockets. When driving in Bucharest, do not leave valuables inside the car and take care to secure it well (locked doors, alarm on). In crowded places, beware of the said pickpockets.

How do we travel?

y road it is possible to enter Bucharest along one of the following main streets: • From Ploie¿ti (N) by ªoseaua BucharestPloie¿ti and then Kiseleff (DN 1), passing through Båneasa and the ”Esplanade” part of the city (the alternative through Buftea – DN 1A enters along the ªoseaua Bucharest-Târgovi¿te and Bd. Bucure¿tii Noi, cutting through Stråule¿tii and Bucure¿tii Noi); • From Buzåu (NE) through ªoseaua Colentina (DN 2), passing through Voluntari, Andronache, Colentina and Obor; • From Slobozia (E), either along ªoseaua Pantelimon/Iancului or the ªoseaua Vergului/Bd. Basarabia (DN 3), or by Bd. Pallady and Camil Ressu (extension of the A 2 highway), cutting through the Dude¿ti-Cioplea area; • From Olteni¡a (SE) by ªoseaua Olteni¡ei/Calea Våcåre¿ti (DN 4), crossing the Våcåre¿ti and Bellu districts; • From Giurgiu (S) through ªoseaua Giurgiului (DN 5), cutting through the districts Progresul, Berceni, Bellu; • From Alexandria (SW) by ªoseaua Alexandriei and Calea Rahovei (DN 6); • From Pite¿ti (W) through Bd. Maniu 10

(extension of the A 1 highway), cutting through Militari; • From Târgovi¿te (NW) by ªoseaua Chitilei and Calea Grivi¡ei/Bd. Mihalache (DN 7), crossing the districts Bucure¿tii Noi and Grivi¡a/Domenii. The street network follows two main directions, which cross in the University Square: N-S (Bd. Catargiu, Bd. Magheru/Bålcescu, Bd. Bråtianu, Bd. Cantemir, Calea ªerban Vodå) and E-W (Bd. Protopopescu, Bd. Carol I, Bd. Queen Elisabeta/Kogålniceanu, Bd. Eroii Sanitari). Railroad transportation. The Gara de Nord (Northern Railway Station, at 2, Bd. Gårii de Nord) is the largest of its kind in Romania. One can reach it by subway (Gara de Nord station) or by bus lines 123, 133, 182, 205, 282, by trolley-bus lines 61, 71, 85, 93, 96 and by streetcar lines 24, 34, 46. There are some more railway stations – Basarab (at 2 ªos. Orhideelor; for slow trains only), Obor (1 Bd. Gårii Obor; for trains to Constan¡a and Olteni¡a), or Titan Sud (on Bd. Basarabia, for slow trains to Olteni¡a). Any other railway stations have been put out of use, either finally (Filarets, Cotroceni), or temporarily (Båneasa, Progresu). Details at

www.infofer.ro. Telephone information: CFR – 021-9521. Public surface transport (street car, trolleybus and bus) is available from 5:00 to 23:00. Fare: 1 trip = 1.3 lei, one-day ticket = 8 lei, and one-month ticket = 50 lei. Details (including map and guide of routes) to be found at www.ratb.ro or at phone 021-9391. Since 2006, maxi-taxi trips have been cut down, being restricted to the suburbs. The fare varies between 2 and 5 lei. There are 6 bus terminals in Bucharest. The most important point of departure is situated next to the Gara de Nord (North Railway Station). Details on www.autogåri.ro. Taxis can be encountered everywhere, and they have no competition at night. Their average fare price is about 1.6 lei/km. It is advisable to ride only in taxis whose fare is

posted on a visible spot. Telephone numbers: 021-9422, 9423, 9424, 9435, 9494, 9477, 9531. For more cab companies, go to www.taximetre.ro (BEWARE! Fares are subject to possible changes!). The Subway (the most frequently used public transport means) operates between 5:00 and 23:30 hours and it connects different points along its two main routes, plus a belt line connecting the former two at the outer limits of the old town. Fare: two trips = 2.5 lei, one-day ticket = 5 lei, one-month ticket = 25 lei. Details at www.metrorex.ro or at phone no. 0219264. Air transport is operated from the international airports in Otopeni (DN 1, km 16.5; access: “express” ride 783) and Båneasa (DN 1, km 8.5). Details at www.tarom.ro.

Hotels and Restaurants

he downtown luxury hotels, with their 4-5 star services, are very expensive. For lower prices in the downtown area, do turn only to 3-star hotels (sometimes, in 2-star ones, services can leave quite much to be desired). Villas and boarding houses are very seldom. The residential district in the north, near the airport, is also expensive. In the suburbs there may be found also cheaper hotels, sometimes ranked even with 4-star. In the Båneasa Forest area there are camping places and the villages to the North, with tourist value, have also boarding houses or motels. The offer is quite diversified and can answer almost any requirements and tastes. There are very many restaurants with quite diverse cuisine styles: American, Chinese,

French, Indian, Italian, Lebanese, Brasilian, Greek, Mediterranean, fusion a.s.o. Among foreign tourists, the traditional Romanian restaurants are frequently sought out. Bucharest also marts many fast-food lines, sweet shops, a lot of pubs and open air cafés. In a restaurant, tips are almost a must, amounting to some 10% of the pay. For a very special cuisine and sightseeing experience we would recommend some famous downtown restaurants, such as Casa Cap¿a, Caru’ cu Bere, Casa Vernescu, or those located in the green spots of the town, such as casa Doina. Contact for consumers’ protection: phone 021-9660, e-mail: reclamatii.bucuresti@opc.ro

How’s the weather down here?

ucharest is located in a temperate weather zone, with an average annual temperature of 10-11° C, but because of the continental air currents, there is a quite wide temperature difference from hot summer to freezing winter time. Thus, for instance, in summer the temperature rises frequently above 30° C, while in winter it drops for quite a long time below 0° C. In the recent years, Bucharest summer is acknowledged for extreme heat,

enhanced by the very intensive pollution, but also by the huge amounts of dust, that are a top feature for Bucharest among other cities in Europe. Spring and autumn are ever shorter, but much more pleasant. Winter has less and less snow but, in case of snowfall, the traffic is almost paralyzed. Also, by rainy weather (especially during autumn rain, but also in case of summer storms, which are ever more 11

BUCHAREST? NICE TO MEET YOU!

Bucharest and Whereabouts

frequent), the city is not the most agreeable place to visit. The central zone of the city, with the greatest cluttering of buildings, with more asphalt/concrete and very little green areas, has the hottest tempera-

tures, with low moisture level and sometimes hard to breathe air. The middle zone enjoys the benefits of more open spaces and green areas, with cleaner air. Weather news: phone 021-9591, www.meteoromania.ro.

What can we do in case of emergency?

he all-round emergency call number is 112. Call 112 when: you need an immediate intervention of the Police, the Ambulance, the Firemen, when you suffer a severe health problem, when your are the victim or witness to theft, hold-up or a severe traffic accident, when a fire has broken out in your home or in any other place. However, direct calls to the required service are more efficient.

Web addresses: http://b.politiaromana.ro (Police of the Municipality of Bucharest), www.jandarmeria.ro (General Direction of Police Force of the Municipality of Bucharest). The most important emergency hospitals are the University Hospital (www.suub.ro) and the Floreasca Hospital (www.urgentafloreasca.ro).

Where can we get our information?

or the time being, in Bucharest there is only one tourist information centre, installed in the North Railway Station, in front of the railroad information office. By the end of 2009, there will be opened another centre for tourists, in the Henri Coandå airport in Otopeni. Other places where Bucharest visitors may get information are: • Administration of Monuments and Tourist Heritage – 7, Lahovary Square, sector 1, phone 021-318.37.67, 318.37.68; www.ampt.ro

• National Office for the Worship of Heroes, 6, Candiano Popescu St., sector 4, tel. 021-335.11.76; www.once.ro • Centre for cultural projects of the Municipality of Bucharest ARCUB – 14, Bati¿tei St., sector 2, phone 021-319.26.90; www.arcub.ro Travel agencies (located mainly on Bd. Magheru/Bålcescu/Bråtianu) can offer a lot of useful information; upon request, some of them arrange also city tours by minibus or coach. The great hotels may, in turn, organize city tours, too.

Museum addresses BUCHAREST MEMORIAL HOUSE ARGHEZI 26, Mår¡i¿or St., Phone: 021-3325900 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 10-18

BOTANICAL GARDENS 32, Cotroceni Avenue Phone: 021-4109139 Open: Tuesday-Suday: 9-17

THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM 22, Spåtarului St., Phone 021-2114979 Open: Wednesday-Sunday: 10-18 (Oct.-Apr.) Wednesday-Sunday: 11-19 (May-Sept.)

MUSEUM “PRINCELY PALACE – OLD COURT” 25-31, Francezå St. Phone 021-3170375 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 10-18

ZOO 4, Vadul Moldovei St. Phone: 021-2304510 Open: Monday-Sunday: 8-20 (in summer), 9-17 (in winter) 12

MUSEUM OF THE ARMENIAN COMMUNITY 41-43, Carol I Blvd.; Phone 021-9070 Open: Monday-Friday: 9-14

MUSEUM OF OLD WESTERN ART ”DUMITRU FURNICA-MINOVICI” 3, Dr. N. Minovici St. Phone: 021-6657334 Open: Thursday-Sunday: 9-17

HISTORY MUSEUM OF ROMANIAN JEWS 3, Måmulari St.; Phone: 021-3110870 Open: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday: 9-12

MUSEUM OF HOLOCAUST IN ROMANIA

NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM “D.LEONIDA” 2, Candiano Popescu St.; Phone: 021-3367777 Open: Wednesday-Sunday: 9-17

MUSEUM OF THE ROMANIAN PEASANT 3, Kiseleff Avenue; Phone: 021-3179660 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 10-18

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF OLD MAPS AND BOOKS 25, Londra St.; Phone: 021.2304468 Open: Wednesday-Sunday: 10-18

11, V. Adamache St. Open: Tuesday-Saturday: 9-13

ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY

MUSEUM OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF BUCHAREST

21, Catargiu Blvd. Phone: 021-2129644 Variable open hours

2, I.C. Bråtianu Blvd. Phone: 021-3156858 Open: Wednesday-Sunday: 10-18

NATIONAL MUSEUM “GEORGE ENESCU” 141, Victoriei Avenue Phone: 021-3181450 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 10-17

NATIONAL FIREMEN MUSEUM 33, Ferdinand Blvd. Phone: 021-2522884 Open: Monday-Friday: 8-16

NATIONAL MUSEUM COTROCENI 1, Geniului Blvd.; Phone: 021-3173106 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 9.30-16.30 (it is advisable to make a prior visiting appointment at phone nr. 021-3173107)

NATIONAL ART MUSEUM OF ROMANIA 49-53, Victoriei Avenue Phone: 021-3148119 Open: Wednesday-Sunday: 11-18

NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF ROMANIA 12, Victoriei Av.; Phone: 021-3158207 Open: Wednesday-Sunday: 10-17

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY “GRIGORE ANTIPA” 1, Kiseleff Av.; Phone: 021-3128863 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 10-18

PALACE OF THE PARLIAMENT 3, Izvor St.; Phone: 021-4021428 Open: daily 10-16 (for organized groups)

GIURGIU COUNTY ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Giurgiu; 10, Bucure¿ti Avenue; Phone: 0246-216801 Open: Tuesday-Saturday: 9-17

COUNTY MUSEUM ”TEOHARI ANTONESCU” Giurgiu, 3, C.D. Gherea St.; Phone: 0246-216801 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 9-17

CÅLÅRAªI COUNTY MEMORIAL HOUSE ALEXANDRU SAHIA Mânåstirea Village Phone: 0242-511174 Open: Monday-Wednesday: 10-16 (only in summer)

MUSEUM OF THE GUMELNIºA CULTURE Olteni¡a, 101, Arge¿ului St.; Phone: 0242-511174 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 9-17

ART MUSEUM Olteni¡a, 2, Arge¿ului St.; Phone: 0242-511174 Open: Tuesday-Sunday: 10 -14 13

BUCHAREST? NICE TO MEET YOU!

Bucharest and Whereabouts

Events 1. Bucharest Days (September)

n the historical centre of the city, as well as in other locations in the city, set free especially from street traffic, there take place parades of carriages or antique costumes, romantic ”flower battles”, open air shows of theatres, brass bands and folk music bands, traditional dances or even circus numbers. Little cabins are arranged for craftsmen, cafés, play grounds for children, street games contests take place, interactive activities, water shows and fireworks. At the same time, there are displayed a great number of cultural events in various museums, institutions or exhibition rooms: book release, art show first view, collectors’ fairs, film projections and workshops. Can be visited various tourist places which are usually closed to the public (the Triumphal Arch), or special exhibitions of the museums. Not to forget the classical or modern music concerts, a long-distance race along the Kiseleff Avenue, and the monuments that are specially lit up for the occasion by night.

2. The ”George Enescu” Festival

ith a tradition of more than 50 years, the international classical music festival – named like this to honour the greatest Romanian composer – is held in the Capital once every two years, being one of the most

prestigious European festivals. Musical personalities from all over the world come to sing and play on the scenes of this festival. In the shows play the most valued symphony orchestras and tickets are booked long time before.

3. Museums Night (May)

his event, organized simultaneously in several great European cities, gathered each year an ever larger audience, as the offer of the museums also becomes more diversified, to include music, movies, shows or cuisine happenings too.

Memories of the City Bucharest is, first of all, a place loaded with history and also with â&#x20AC;Ś stories. Whoever attempts to get better acquainted with it comes to discover unexpected things, stories about each and every corner of the city, about people who have left their mark on the city, or about the great storms of history which havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t failed to hit it. Despite the fact that Bucharest does not display relics of very old times, as its inhabitants have built and rebuilt it over and over again, renewing it with every new generation, the city has kept its memory alive. This is its fascinating dowry.

Bucharest and Whereabouts

Old History of the Area

he area of the capital has been inhabited by populations that developed the great prehistoric civilizations in the North of the Danube River. The surrounding plain, the hills running along the banks of the Dâmbovi¡a and the Colentina are dotted with many such prehistoric sites. A very famous statuette, belonging to the Gumelni¡a culture, known as the ”Goddess of Vidra”, was discovered just in the South of Bucharest. The Goddes of Vidra Similarly important is also the Roman statuette designed as the ”Venus of Tei”, discovered in the neighborhood of the Tei Lake. In ancient times, this region, inhabited by Getic-Dacian population, included at a certain time in the kingdom of chief Burebista, gradually falls under Roman influence. The residence Argedava was the very Getic fortress of Pope¿ti (south of Bucharest). This area was temporarily occupied by the Romans (102-117 a.D.), but later it remained under the ruling of the free Dacians, until the arrival of the Goths. Empire has been constantly inhabited since the 5th century by Huns, Gepidae, Avars and Slavic tribes. The First Bulgarian Empire had the political ruling over this region, where it 16

Mircea the Elder (1386-1418)

imposed the Slavic culture; the Slavs were, in turn, assimilated by the Romanians; nevertheless, they left their mark in the local toponymy: Neajlov, Ialomi¡a, Snagov, Ciorogârla etc. In the Middle Ages, after the late invasions of the Pechenegs and Cumans, settlements started to appear, too, set up in small clearings and around the monastic cores in the deep forest of this region – Codrii Vlåsiei. The Turks who got often lost in the depth of these endless forests surrounding the city of Bucharest and its neighboring settlements, called them deli orman – the wide woods. The first documentary mentions appear in the 14th century, in connection with the monasteries of Snagov, Glavacioc, Bolintin, Comana. After the year 1400, on the place where Bucharest is located nowadays, Mircea the Elder builds a fortress called ”Cetatea Dâmbovi¡ei” (”Dâmbovi¡a Fortress”), the future centre of the court of the ruler Vlad the Impaler. The settlement exists from 1459. In 1465, the town is mentioned for the first time as the king’s residence, and in 1492 it gets a certification on a map (in a German book of maps). Roman statuette ”Venus of Tei”, 3rd century)

Bucharest in the Middle Ages ucharest was marked, in the 15th Century, by the antiOttoman politics of Stephen the Great, who inforced his own men on the throne (Vlad the Impaler, ºepelu¿ or Vlad the Monk). Later, the region develops in times of peace during the rule of Radu the Great (1508 – the first Romanian printings, made in Snagov) or Neagoe Basarab (founder of Snagov). Another period of wars follows, with the reign of Radu of Afuma¡i (see Top 3 Historical Figures). Mircea the Shepherd (1545-1554, 1558-1559) built a new princely castle, and also the church of the Royal Court. From that time on, the town will expand mainly to the South. Also, the marketplace (once named Pazar) evolves near the princely Court. It was established the town core with the market as main place of trade and exchange, located near the Court and the church where the princes used to be crowned. By 1573, the ruler Alexandru Mircea sets up the first printing press at Plumbuita. In the time of Michael the Brave (who erects the great monastery named after him – see Top 3 Old Buildings), Bucharest was already spreading beyond the present day Military Circle. From among Michael’s successors we have been left with marks from Radu ªerban (the very one who opened the ªerban-Vodå Bridge), Radu Mihnea (the founder of the monastery bearing at present the name Radu-Vodå), and mainly Matei Basarab (founder of Cåldåru¿ani, Plåtåre¿ti, Sts. Apostoles and Sårindari Churches; he also rebuilt the Princely Court). Since 1659, Bucharest finally remains the capital for good, and the town begins to change at a quick pace. During the ruling of ªerban Cantacuzino (1678-1688) and Constantin Brâncoveanu (1688-1714), the merchant guilds, the first large inns and the royal printing house are established. During this same period, significant buildings are erected: the future Metropolitan Church, the monasteries Cotroceni, Antim and St. Sava (with its “Academy” – the first princely school). The so-called Mogo¿oaia Bridge Street is opened, the princely Court is extended, and various castles and palaces rise around the Capital City

The cross of Papa Brân coveanu at the Metro politan Church

The cellars of the Princely Court

Vlad ºepe¿ (1456-1462)

Alexandru Mircea (1568-1577)

Matei Basarab (1632-1654)

KEY MONUMENTS 1595, August 15 – After the Cålugåreni battle, the army led by Sinan Pasha occupies Bucharest and changes the churches into mosques. Then, Michael the Brave returns and the Turks withdraw. 1655, February-June – Bucharest suffers numerous destructions during the uprising of the pedestrian mercenaries, against the ruler Constantin ªerban. Previously, another rebellion of the same body of mercenaries had caused the death of Papa Brâncoveanu and even of the old ruler Matei Basarab. 17

MEMORIES OF THE CITY

Bucharest and Whereabouts

Nicolae Mavrocordat

General Pavel Kiseleff

The Great Fire at 1847

The Modern Age

he century of the Phanariots is a difficult time. The Princely Court falls into ruin because of the fires and pillages that took place along with the entrance of the imperial troops (Austrians and Russians) in Bucharest during the wars between 1716 and 1812. However, some important worship places are erected: the Våcåre¿ti monastery, in Brâncovenian style (no longer existing at present), the Stavropoleos church, the Kre¡ulescu church. The old Princely Court began to fall into ruin in 1774 and particularly after 1798, when it was put out for auction. Along with the enforcement of the Organic Regulation (1831-1832), urban works will also begin: tracing and paving of streets, erection of new buildings. During the Russian occupation, the governor Pavel Kiseleff took care of the deficient urban hygiene, which had caused the famous ”Caragea’s plague”, but also of the city reconstruction. In the 1850s, the Ci¿migiu Gardens are arranged and the building of the former National Theater is erected. In 1847, Bucharest was afflicted by the most destructive fire in the city’s entire history (”The Great Fire”). One year later, the city was caught in another kind of fire, the 1848 Revolution, which laid the foundation of the Romanian national rebirth, culminating with the election of prince Cuza in 1859 and then with the Union of the Principalities. As the capital of the newly created state, Bucharest undergoes significant transformations: the buildings of the University and the Romanian Academy appear, the Botanical Garden is laid out. The arrival of Prince Carol I also marks the beginning of a broad modernization process, which changed the capital into a European metropolis, in Parisian style. The waterway of the Dâmbovi¡a is arranged, a new street network is laid out, with large boulevards, and are erected the 18

Romanian Athenaeum, the National Bank, the Royal Foundation and Royal Palace, the Agricultural Bank, the Palace of Justice, the Post Palace, the Cotroceni Palace etc.

1848, the Battle on Spirea Hill

The Mihai Vodå Hill at 1832

KEY MOMENTS 1812, May 28 – In the Inn of Manuc-Bey, is signed the peace treaty which puts an end to the Russian-Turkish War (1806-1812). The influential Armenian inn owner facilitates the agreement; had it been delayed by one month only, Bessarabia could have been saved (Napoleon’s campaign in Russia started on June 24). 1866, May 8 –Prince Carol of HohenzollernSigmaringen occupies the throne of the United Principalities. A fruitful reign began, extending over 48 years, during which Carol inspired the assertion of Romania abroad.

The Contemporary Capital

n August 1916, the state of emergency was declared in Bucharest, following Romania’s entering the war. One month later, the German troops enter the Capital and occupy Bucharest for a two year period; the Government members retreat to Ia¿i. During this period, cultural and social life were censored, and the inhabitants were imposed various restrictions. However, after the return of the Romanian authorities, Bucharest becomes one of the most brilliant European capitals. The “Restaurant on the Esplanade” (nowadays the Casa Doina restaurant), the Jockey Club (at present the Diplomats’ Club) and the gardens were a symbol of that era. The prolific artistic, social and economic life evolves at the same rate as the countries in Western Europe. A national architecture school comes into life (the neoRomanian style). But this is also the time of appearing of modernist buildings, or even high-rise buildings in American style (the Telephone Tower – a first in the architecture of that time). The names that merge their significance with interwar Bucharest are those of the great architects of the city, such as Duiliu Marcu, Horia Creangå, Petre Antonescu or G.M. Cantacuzino. During the war (1944), the city is bombed several times, and one of the raids crushed the National Theatre. The state of siege and the destructions left their powerful mark on the inhabitants of the capital; at the Stirbey Blvd. entrance to the Ci¿migiu Gardens one can see a monument in memory of the war victims. Unfortunately, the communist times have radically defaced the Capital, which was turned into a meaningless copy of the big communist centers. In the huge, drab and dreary high-rise districts, thousands of peasants from all over the country were packed together, changed overnight into loyal workers for the ”socialist cause”. The heavy industry brought with it pollution, and the infrastructure was not updated according to the increasing traffic. Old monuments were destroyed or relocated. An entire central district of the city (Uranus/Dealul Spirii) was completely torn down in order to make room for

The Peace at Buftea (1918)

Carol the 2nd

KEY MOMENTS 1918, November 18 – December 1 – King Ferdinand, leading his army, returns triumphantly into the Capital. At the same time, in Alba Iulia, the Great Union is accomplished. Queen Mary makes a note in her diary: ”Cotroceni, Sunday, November 18/December 1 1918. We have truly returned, we have come back home after a two year long exile. Should I dare to utter the great word? We have returned in a triumph!”

1944, August 23 – Marshal Antonescu is dismissed and arrested. The same day in the evening, King Mihai speaks to the nation, Romania annoucing is leaving the Axis and joins the Allies. Historians estimate that this action shortened the war by six months. 19

MEMORIES OF THE CITY

Bucharest and Whereabouts

Interwar city: The Palace Square …

… and Victoriei Avenue

KEY MOMENTS

Revolutionaries in December 1989

1977, March 4 – The most devastating earthquake in the history of Bucharest left a very strong mark on its contemporaries. Only the city itself counted more than 1,400 victims, 33 large buildings collapsed and several hundred more were severely damaged. A great number of monuments were also affected. Some great personalities found their death in the earthquake, among which the actor Toma Caragiu – the building were he lived was standing on the street that is now bearing his name, next to the Russian Church.

the present Civic Centre, erected after megalomaniac Korean models. Bucharest stepped again onto the stage of history in December 1989, when the entire world could admire the courage of young people who pushed on with the rebellion started in Timi¿oara. The city witnessed terrible scenes, and history was written in blood in places like the Palace’s Square, the Magheru Blvd., the University or the

Romanian Television. The fall of the communism, meant for the Capital the beginning of great changes: Bucharest became the melting pot of civil society. The city undergoes permanent changes, visibly influenced by the new benchmarks of liberty – although sometimes this is applied at random and the modern building investments are threatening the town’s tourist inheritance more and more.

The Civic Centre, evidence of the 80s 20

The Land and its People The life of a capital such as Bucharest, located in a plain area spotted with lakes and water streams, has been forever interlinked with nature. The forest gradually made way for the expanding city, which tamed the waters, too. People built their farmsteads in the midst of vineyards and orchards. For quite a while, Bucharest used to be a garden-city. In the following pages we will encounter some of the valuable people who were added on Bucharestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hall of fame.

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1. The Old Princely Court 2. “Annunciation” Church 3. Hanul lui Manuc (Manuc’s Inn) 4. Stavropoleos Monastery 5. Caru’ cu Bere (The Beer Wagon) 6. The National Bank 7. Hanul cu Tei (The Linden Tree Inn) 8. St. George Church 9. The Bårå¡ia Church 10. The Col¡ea Complex 11. The University Square 12. The Russian Church

Manuc’s Inn

Route 1: Bucharest’s Old Town Starting point: The Unirii Square start our journey at the very LUniriietrootsusSquare of this city. North of the (see map), start walking down Cåldårari Street. Right in front of us soars some church towers decorated with alternated plastering and brick. This is the church of the Princely Court (see Top 3 Old Edifices). Looking left, you’ll see the ruins of the Old Princely Court that can be visited. The wide space nearby is the former “Flowers’ Market” on the location of the oldest Bucharest marketplace. In the same market square, Manuc’s Inn is one of the most beautiful monuments of the Phanar era, with its inner courtyard, domi-

nated by wooden arched columns; it is here that the 1812 unfortunate treaty was hurriedly signed (with the mediation of the inn owner, Manucbey) by which the Ottomans gave Russia half the Principality of Moldavia. Keep on walking along the streets of the Old Town, leaving the church behind you, and turning left on the first street. You are on Covaci Street now. Right around the corner, there is the Cafeneaua Veche (Old Café), today closed. Its architectural style reflects the eastern air of two cen-

T HE O L D P R I N C E L Y C O U R T

Church of the Old Princely Court – detail

This is the Old Princely Court - made up of the Princely Palace, Curtea Sticlarilor (the Glassblowers’ Court), the “Annunciation” church and Manuc’s Inn. We find here the ruins of the palace that Constantin Brâncoveanu had restored – a few columns and sculptures as a reminder. One who goes down the stairs to the underground vaults will also be thrilled to discover the walls Mircea the Shepperd or even Vlad the Impaler had built, and step on the 600-year old pavement existing since Mircea the Elder’s times. The outdoor museum often organizes cultural medieval events.

WALKING THROUGH THE CITY

Bucharest and Whereabouts

The façade of the Stavropoleos Church

turies ago though a few Renaissance wall medallions appeared in the modern age. Right near the café, a commemorative plate draws our eye, reading it is here that the great poet Mihai Eminescu worked as editor for the Timpul newspaper between 1880 and 1881. We can step into several antique stores on Covaci Street, and at the end of the road we turn left, to ªelari Street. It is here that, on the exact location of the actual Curtea Berarilor (Brewers’ Court), there was the old Curtea Sticlarilor (Glassblowers’ Court). The place still bears the traces of the craftsmen’s presence here, as the inner patio and the building still have painted windows. We take the first street to the right, Smârdan Street (recently repaired) with quite a few cafés, pubs and stores. When we reach the end of this street, we make a detour and go down Stavropoleos Street to the Stavropoleos church (see Top 3 Monasteries). You can have lunch at Caru cu Bere restaurant, with its neo-Gothic outer architecture and indoor elegance. This old Bucharest restaurant is a sight to see in itself, and the cooking here is no less than the place’s reputation. Back on Smârdan, here we are on the old commercial street of Lipscani. Right in front of us there is the National Bank (the old building, 1890; an interesting coin museum can be visited here). To our left, the wooden balustrades are yet another invitation to muse on the ruins of the mediaeval inns. 50

Caru’ cu bere

The Glassblowers’ Court

LIPSCANI A generic name for the entire old commercial area, Lipscani is today the core of the Old Town restoration project. It takes its name from the main street where merchants would bring merchandise from Lipsca (Leipzig). The shops and stores of Lipscani, with limited space out in the street, were long and high, so the entire area acquired a particular architectural style. You can visit the recently discovered vestiges of the old mediaeval inns (Zlåtari, Greci) explained and with illustrations, or you can buy antiques in the famous antique stores and shops in the area (Covaci Street, Hanul cu Tei etc.).

Frieze at the Ministry of Agriculture

Michael the Brave’s statue

The University Building

Walk down the Lipscani Street and go right. On your left, at Nos. 6365, Hanul cu Tei (the Linden Tree Inn) is reminiscent of the atmosphere of the old hotels. Built in 1833, with two entrances, it is most likely that the inn got its name from the few linden trees growing in its patio. Well-preserved and harmoniously restored, the edifice shelters the largest art gallery in Romania. We can admire here furniture and decorative items, the souvenir and antiques stores on the ground floor or merely the peculiar architecture of the old inn. We’ve now reached the Bråtianu Avenue. Go through the underground passage and out we are at kilometer 0 of Bucharest. The park around the New St. George’s Church is a place for rest. Constantin Brâncoveanu, the patron of the church (1706, successively restored), a king and martyr, was buried here. Still here, an Orthodox relic: St. Nicholas’ hand. Walk on the same side of the avenue (Bårå¡iei Street) and you’ll see the high Bårå¡ia Tower – the oldest Catholic church in the city.

Keep on going towards the University Square, going past the Col¡ea Complex. The Col¡ea architectural complex, one of the early 18th-century largest buildings, includes a church and a hospital today, as if guarded by the statue of Mihai Cantacuzino, its founder. Still, the complex was not named after its patron, but after boyar whom Cantacuzino had bought the land from. A short walk from here and we reach the largest roundabout that the people of Bucharest know as the University Square. The large roundabout is actually named 21 Decembrie 1989 Square in celebration of the Romanian revolution.

Col¡ea and its patron 51

Bucharest and Whereabouts

The ªu¡u Palace – inside view

The 21 Decembrie 1989 Square

The 21 Decembrie 1989 Square has four impressive buildings in its four corners. At the exact place we’re standing, in the right corner, there is the Palace of the Agriculture Ministry (1895). Its façade decorations are suggestive of the longgone charm of “Little Paris”. Across the street, the Museum of the Bucharest Municipality (in the ªu¡u Palace – 1934, neo-Gothic style) is in the left corner. Visiting it is a must if you wish to be able to say you got to know the city. Its collections reflect the city’s history and stories in documents, archaeological artifacts and art objects. The ground floor hosts temporary exhibitions, as the museum is highly involved in the cultural life of Bucharest. Look right in front of you and you’ll see, across the street from the Ministry of Agriculture, the Bucharest National Theater, in its current form since 1980, when Nicolae Ceau¿escu ordered the reshaping of the old building. It seems he was dissatisfied with the hat-like shape of the former institution. Across the ªu¡u Palace, there is the University, built in the neo-Classical style. The better known is the more recent building in the vicinity of the roundabout because of the famous balcony that witnessed the 19891990 events. The University Square is to the left, right in front of the University building, having 4 modern-age statues

in its corners. Once, this is where St. Sava monastery was, that hosted the first Romanian higher education forms in its cells. After its demolition, the role as chapel for University students was assigned to the Russian Church nearby, an unexpected presence in Bucharest (built in 1909, Tsar Nicholas paid the building fees).

THE “GOLANIAD” The anti-Communist uprising in the University Square (1990) lasted 53 days. The students and intellectuals (called “golani” or “punks” by President Iliescu at the time) requested the old Communists to step down. There were bloody reprisals against them on June 13th15th, 1990, by the miners who had became overnight the paramilitary force of the people in power. This square is a symbol of the anti-Communist fight for freedom.