SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE DIGITAL ISSUE 2C | 2022
AndHello!welcome back to another issue of our favourite dog magazine, Dog Quarterly This is our sixth edition of this new publication, and each time we’re blown away by the support of our advertisers and writers. Thank you to all those who are playing such integral roles in growing this title.
In this edition, we have lots of great content from our writers, including articles on Rhodesian Ridgebacks; a feature on Honey’s Garden Specialist Service Dogs; a look at Rank Reduction Programmes and why they have no place in modern training; and also a focus on skull shape! It’s a great issue (if we do say so ourselves) ;) so please dive in! Until next time! Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor Lizzie and the DQ team xxx
Designer: Anne Royden-Turner
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Further, we need to thank you, the reader, for giving us such a great number of reads each month. We’re getting into a rhythm with the content now, but if there’s anything you’d like to see or any organisations you think we should feature, please don’t hesitate to get in touch at lizzie@dqmagazine.co.za
DQ | 2C4 ISSUETHISIN DIGITAL ISSUE 2C | 2022 06 Rhodesian Ridgebacks The African Lion Dogs 14 Up close and personal With Marie Wijkander 18 Your dogs Meet Chane and Faf 22 Your dogs Meet Chris and Shadow 24 Your dogs Meet Nicole and Ivy 28 Tricky toys Why you should challenge your paw pal with snuffle toys 32 Slow down The advantages and disadvantages of slow feeders 38 Rank Reduction Programmes And why they have no place in dog training today 44 Honey’s Garden Medical Alert Dogs Specialist Service Dogs 50 Skull shape Definitions 54 Tasty treats for your pup Part 1: Omelettes 56 Neutering your dog What you need to know 60 Basic exercises for your dog Part one 66 Ask DQ Your dog questions answered 68 Products we love
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RidgebacksRhodesian THE AFRICAN LION DOGS BREED PROFILE TEXT: ASHLEA CALLENDER-EASBY DQ | 2C 7
HISTORY During the 16th and 17th centuries, European Boer settlers encountered the Hottentot tribes in the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa. They quickly bred and crossed their own dogs with the Hottentot tribal hunting dogs, in possession of and distinguished by a ridge down the centre of their spines. Despite their deceptive name Rhodesian Ridgebacks actually originate from South Africa. Their original breed purposes were to guard families and farms and, equally importantly, to hunt big game, including lions. These dogs hunted by both scent and sight and were devoted protectors of the entire family.
Known as "The African Lion Dog", Rhodesian Ridgebacks are highly intelligent scent hounds that are brilliant in the tracking discipline.
DQ | 2CBREED8 PROFILE
A large number of these dogs were taken to Zimbabwe (then Rhodesia) to hunt lions from horseback in the 1870s. The Rhodesian Ridgebacks would harass and chase the lions until the hunters were able to shoot them. The dogs were also required to flush out game, pull down larger wounded game, and guard farms from wild game and intruders. These dogs had to handle the rigours of the African bush in terms of severe and sudden temperature changes, parasites such as ticks in the grass and bush, and survive 24-hour periods without water.
This new hybrid dog breed was so successful that these 'lion dogs' became popular and the distinctive ridge down the centre of their spine became a trademark of quality. DID YOU KNOW? Errol Flynn, the movie star, was one of the first people in the US to breed Ridgebacks. He purchased his first Ridgeback from an Englishman in the 1930s and raised dogs on his ranch in Hollywood. The bloodline is now sadly extinct.
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VARIETIES Ridgebacks range in colour from light wheaten to red wheaten. The nose can be black, in which case the Ridgeback has dark eyes, or brown/liver colour in which case the eyes are amber in colour. A little white is permissible on the chest and toes and black on the ears and muzzle. Any other deviances are undesirable and render the dog unable to meet the breed standards in terms of colour, as is the case with deviances in eye/coat colour. The coat should never be silky or woolly; rather, it is sleek, glossy and dense.
A desirable set of standards was set up in 1922 by a group of Zimbabweans, and dogs meeting this standard were called Rhodesian Ridgebacks; these standards remain almost entirely unchanged to this day. During the 1930s, the breed was introduced to England and not long thereafter to America.
DQ | 2CBREED10 PROFILE HEALTH
• Large, round eyes set in a flat, fairly-lengthened skull which is considered to be broad between the ears;
• A scissor bite which is perfect and complete from one side to the other;
• A skeleton of heavy bones;
• A powerful, muscular, slightly arched and strong back;
• A set of medium-sized, high-set ears that are naturally floppy and close to the head, and which are wide at the base and gradually taper to a rounded point;
The primary health concerns in Ridgebacks are hip and elbow dysplasia and dermoid sinus, which is particularly prevalent in Rhodesian Ridgebacks. In adults, the primary tests are for hip and elbow dysplasia, and in puppies, the test for sinus dermoid is performed. Dermoid sinus presents as lumps on the skin, which are found on the midline of the neck, back and tail, and these lumps can be surgically removed. This condition is caused by incomplete separation of the nervous system and skin during embryonic development. It is considered to be a genetic defect, and as such, afflicted animals should not be bred.
CONFORMATION
• A muzzle which is both long and deep, making it very powerful;
• A medium-sized, athletic and muscular dog which is both balanced and strong;
• A very deep chest which is spacious but not too wide;
• Ribs which are never rounded like the hoops of a barrel but are reasonably well compressed;
Breed standards set by KUSA and SARRC (outlined by author Timmy Ralfe in the international publication Ridgeback Revealed) and which ensure free, active, straightforward movement are as follows:
DQ | 2C 11 BREED PROFILE SUITABILITY SUMMARY • Energy level: 3/5 • Exercise requirements: 3/5 • Playfulness: 3/5 • Affection level: 3/5 • Friendliness towards other pets: 3/5 • Friendliness towards strangers: 1/5 • Ease of training: 3/5 • Grooming requirements: 1/5 • Tendency to drool: 1/5 • Tendency to snore: 1/5 • Tendency to bark: 2/5 • Tendency to dig: 1/5 • Social/attention needs: 3.5/5
DID YOU KNOW? Wheaten literally refers to the range of colours wheat goes through as it grows and matures. DQ | 2CBREED12 PROFILE
TEMPERAMENT Ridgebacks are powerful and resolute canines. Unyieldingly protective of their family, pack and home, they can be highly aggressive towards strange dogs, animals and people. They are keen hunters but may become domineering towards others of all sorts if left unchecked and untrained. They have many characteristics associated with canines from the hound group but are generally considered 'tougher' than the 'typical' hound breeds. Despite their protective nature and hunting instincts, they are thought to be gentle-natured with a quiet temperament. They make excellent companions, are extremely tolerant towards the little humans within their family pack and enjoy the company of the dogs in their canine pack. Be wary, however, of too many males as this, more often than not, Africa
• A pair of round, compact feet which have tough elastic paw pads and good arches;
• A tail which is strong at the root, and gradually tapers towards the end, is free from coarseness, is moderate in length and is carried with a slight curve;
FACT FILE Height: Males 63.5cm-69cm Females 60-65cm Weight: Males 36.5kgs Females 32kgs Life span: 10-13 years in generally healthy specimens. Origin: South
• A ridge on the spine of the back with symmetrical whorls, which are situated just behind the withers and are adjoining a ridge of hair in a reversed direction that
• Shoulders that are built for speed and give the impression thereof due to their sloping, muscular and clean appearance; • Sturdy boned, perfectly straight forelegs which are positioned close to the body;
• A pair of hindlegs with well-defined muscles and well letdown stifles;
R ecently Ashlea Callender-Easby from the DQ team got in touch with Marie Wijkander, a Rhodesian Ridgeback breeder, and asked her about her experiences and knowledge as a breeder of 19 years. PERSONALANDCLOSEUP WITH MARIE WIJKANDER TEXT: ASHLEA CALLENDER-EASBY DQ | 2CBREED14 PROFILE
A: Inanda is (I have been told) a Zulu word that means The Beautiful Place, and Mellberg is the name of the farm where I grew up.
Q: Where does the origin of the name of your kennel come from?
Q: Which one of the dogs that you have ever owned or bred would you consider to be your “heart dog”? What was it about that particular dog which afforded it that title?
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Q: What aspects about the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed made this breed your breed of choice?
Q: Why did you decide to become a breeder and in particular a Rhodesian Ridgeback breeder?
A: It was just a natural progression, but I had been "in the breed" for about 15 years by then. And since then I have attended numerous courses on breeding, dog/animal husbandry, nutrition, genetics, training of various kinds etc, both IRL and online, in Scandinavia, the UK and the US.
A: With 30+ years in the breed, there have been several, and they have all been working/tracking dogs. When I was still in Europe, I did a lot of competitive tracking (as well as showing, agility and some obedience), and all these activities mean that you develop a very strong relationship/ bond with the individual.
Q: Which one of the dogs that you personally bred would you consider to be your “pride and joy” and your proudest achievement as a breeder and why?
A: He is not necessarily the one I am the most proud of, but Inanda Mellberg Edelrood is probably the internationally best-known dog I have ever bred. He has an inordinate number of show titles from all over Europe, but is also an enormously talented and successful working dog/tracker, owned and handled and much, much loved by Danish PH Elisabeth Svendsen.
A: To be perfectly honest, it was not at all a conscious or considered choice; I had rather too much red wine at a dinner party, 30+ years ago, and was persuaded to buy a four-or-so-month old family Rhodesian Ridgeback puppy. The owner had decided he would really rather have a Jack Russell.
A: I will not be popular for saying this, but if I were no longer able to keep my dogs, I would have them put down. And in my will, I stipulate that any dogs in my possession at the time of my death should be put down.
Q: How often do you breed a litter?
Q: Do you hold yourself accountable as an ethical and responsible breeder and what steps or ethos do you follow to achieve this objective?
Q: What ideals and traits in puppies are you trying to achieve when breeding a litter?
A: It is my hope and ambition that I will continue to breed according to the Breed Standard, and that I will continue to breed dogs that are happy to work.
Q: Do you think given the climate in SA, breeders should do more to address the issues surrounding abandoned and sheltered puppies and dogs; and if so how would you suggest they get involved in remedying these issues?
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Q: As an ethical and responsible breeder what is it you are trying to achieve with each new litter and what traits in terms of temperament and conformation are you trying to achieve?
A: I am a member of KUSA; a member of the SARRC; I X-Ray hips, shoulders and elbows; and I do numerous genetic health tests for issues that seem to be common/ on the increase in the breed. My litters are whelped in my bedroom and live there till they leave home, and that is at eight weeks the earliest. I have also never, in 19 litters (19 years) sold a puppy to somebody I had not met in person (Skype, Zoom etc are not enough for me) unless we have good mutual friends that I trust to vouch for the future home.
Q: What is your response as a breeder who upholds these values to those who have bought into the “Adopt Don’t Shop” movement? A: The two can exist side-by-side, but I do have an issue with those who insist that cross-breeds are inherently a healthier option.
A: Individuals that are correct according to the Breed Standard, with a good nose, an interest in using that nose, and a potentially good work ethic.
Q: How many dogs do you have in your kennel now and what are their names?
A: I currently have five individuals, all with the prefix Inanda Mellberg; Shantih by Jukati, Nimla by Bolt, Quaraa Hadiya C, Ranston and Stanza.
A: Once a year.
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A: I create WhatsApp groups for each litter, and most of my puppy buyers stay in touch. Because of the care taken in picking the homes, I have only ever had to take a dog back three times.
Q: Are you able to follow up once a pup has left for its new home and is there anything you can do after to get the puppy or dog back once it becomes obvious it is not the home the new owners portrayed?
A: She was/is a great admirer of Inanda Mellberg Edelrood, so we met ‘online’ on a RR site via him. That was probably 12 or so years ago.
Q: Do you have any involvement with her publication, “Ridgeback Revealed”, and if so to what extent?
A: I proof-read the original manuscript and have supplied a number of pics. Q: How much involvement do you have with fellow Rhodesian Ridgeback breeders? A: I am in regular contact with many of my colleagues around the world, often ask questions and am often asked questions, and I learn from them all the time.
A: Pick a good, responsible and actively involved breeder that you can talk with. Q: How often do you work your dogs and what type of work do you do with them? A: They are taken for off-the-lead walks in the veld/bush a few times a week, and we go tracking once a week or so.
Q: Are your dogs on some sort of special diet and if so what is it comprised of?
Q: Do you have a daily and weekly routine with your dogs? A: You see, I don’t have a routine. Once you have a routine, dogs start expecting certain things at a certain time, and I don’t really believe in that. They are never fed when I wake up, but quite a bit later (sometimes two hours later, if I ride first), and picking up collars and leads never means walkies…more often than not I put them away again. I really don’t enjoy dogs going hysterical around me because they are expecting something.
Q: What takeaway message do you have for younger up and coming Rhodesian Ridgeback breeders?
Q: What advice would you offer someone who is considering purchasing a Rhodesian Ridgeback? A: Visit breeders. Go to shows. Read, read and read some more.
Q: How do you know Timmy U. Ralfe; the international dog show judge and author of the publication Ridgeback Revealed?
A: I have fed my dogs raw for 20+ years. I use the BARF method, and I buy it ready-made from Pin Oaks in Mnandi. It is possibly more expensive than kibble, but apart from annual jabs, the occasional injury and breeding related matters, I have no vet bills.
YOUR DOGS DQ | 2C 19
DQ | 2CYOUR20 DOGS
DQ : Why should your dog be DQ famous? C: Because not only is he gorgeous (every dog mom probably thinks their fur-child is the best ), but he will sit and pose for pics - even though he probably hates us for it.
DQ: What is your dog's favourite treat? C: He doesn't have a favourite. He's like a vacuum and will literally eat anything.
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DQ: Does your dog have any hobbies or activities he takes part in? C: Faf was an active hiking dog but injured himself and had to get back surgery at the end of April 2022, so he's still recovering.
DQ: What makes your dog unique? C: His awesome personality. He is goofy and funny and just entertains everyone - especially kids.
DQ: Does your dog have dog brothers or sisters?
C: Shadow DQ: How old is your dog, and how long have you had her?
YOUR DOGS
C: She lives with her littermate, Thor, and three adopted sisters, Ela, Jessie and Bella.
ChrisMeet Shadowand
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DQ: What is your dog's name?
C: Shadow is an 11-year-old labrador cross, and I've had her since she was a little baby.
YOUR DOGS
DQ: Why should your dog by DQ famous?
DQ: What is your dog's favourite treat?
DQ: What makes your dog unique?
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C: I think Shadow should be DQ famous because I'd love for her to get recognition for all her hard work before she has to retire.
C: Shadow loves all food, but her favourite treats are anything she can chew on, like bully sticks or tendons.
C: Shadow is special because she has a very special job; she is a demo dog for Diamond Dogs Training. She helps teach other dogs how to be good girls and boys and helps show dogs who are scared of other dogs that there's nothing to be afraid of. She's a dog dog trainer! She's so good at her job because she is gentle, brave, calm, resilient and an overall good girl.
andNicoleMeetIvy
DQ: What is your dog's name? N: Ivy DQ: How old is your dog? N: Ivy turned three in March, and I have had her since she was a puppy.
DQ: Does your dog have any brothers or sisters? N: Yes, her older, much smaller, and more feisty sister Lillo (a Dachshund). DQ: What is your dog's favourite treat? N: Anything really, but she loves the Healthy Pet Food's Liver Bites and Chicken Slices.
YOUR DOGS DQ | 2C24
YOUR DOGS DQ | 2C 25
DQ | 2C 27 YOUR DOGS
When Ivy realised we were safe, she immediately turned around and sprinted to my side. She undoubtedly saved her sister and me from serious harm!
setting Lillo free. To give you an idea, Ivy weighs in at 31kg, and this Boerboel was hands down double her size in weight and muscle, but she was absolutely determined to protect us. I, of course, lost it and was screaming like a banshee to try and recall her, but she was set on protecting us. She didn't once try and bite the dog. She kept low to the ground (like in man-work training) and barked to force the threat backwards. She got this big aggressive dog about 100m away from us, which gave me time to get Lillo into the car.
DQ: Why should Ivy be DQ famous?
N: That's easy – just look at her! She was born to be in front of the camera and is a proper poser! But of course, I'm just so grateful to her for what she did for Lillo and me. Also, if it wasn't for her, I wouldn't get out of bed in the morning. She doesn't understand anxiety and depression, but all she wants is for her mom to get up, get her tekkies on and go for a walk with her. Even if it takes stealing something from me, zooming off with it, dropping it and staring at me with this goofball of a face, she'll do it to get me out of bed and on a walk. Every single time she does this, I am so thankful for her. She gets me up and makes me smile. I owe everything to her, and she wants nothing in return.
Mentally stimulating activities play an essential role in helping to keep your dog happy and smiling and in controlling their energy levels. Just as their bodies need exercise, so too do their minds. Toys such as snuffle balls, challenger cubes and activity mats that include several different pockets and pouches are perfect examples of mind-exercising activities. One of the ways in which these toys exercise their minds is by providing our dogs with the challenge of figuring out how to obtain all the hidden tidbits within the nooks and crannies of these toys. The energy and focus that goes into solving this problem are greatly beneficial in boosting your dog’s mental abilities as it requires them to think and do and think again, helping them to learn how to overcome an obstacle and have fun whilst doing it.
W hat do flowers, fortune cookies, cubes and mats have in common? The answer is obvious. They all enrich and challenge the minds of the ever-wonderful companions that we call our dogs. How? By simply being turned into enriching snuffle toys that not only make tongues wag through the addition of treats and kibbles but also excite the senses, stimulate learning and development and keep boredom at Enrichmentbay.plays an important role in the happiness and well-being of your dog, regardless of his life stage. It lets them live out their natural hunting/scavenging instincts and may even save your garden, shoes and electrical wiring from devastating destruction. If you also have doggos that scoff up their food like they haven’t been fed in three months each time you put their bowls down, then you also might want to read on as point five is for you. Here we list five top benefits of snuffle toys: 1. MENTAL STIMULATION FOR THE PAWPULATION
TRICKY TOYS WHY YOU SHOULD CHALLENGE YOUR PAW PAL WITH SNUFFLE TOYS TEXT: BARBARA KELLERMANDOGS28
AT PLAY
Snuffle toys are great for calming nervous, anxious, hyperactive and even over-stimulated dogs that engage in a lot of high-energy and sporting activities. This is due to the calming effect that these toys can have on a dog by serving as a distraction and/or break from their surroundings or whatever situations tend to set them off. Furthermore, when dogs are on ‘bed-rest’ due to an injury or post-surgery, they can become agitated and frustrated from not being able to move freely. In these cases, snuffle toys can be equally useful in distracting them from their situation.
3. TAKES THEM ON A TRIP TO RELAXATION STATION
29 DOGS AT PLAY
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32 SLOW DOWN
Bloat is uncomfortable as a condition in isolation, but if your dog runs around too soon before or after a meal with too much air in their stomach, they risk their stomach flipping. When this happens, the tubes entering (the oesophagus) and leaving (the small intestine) the stomach are closed, stopping the blood supply and natural movement through the digestive system. The dog's stomach becomes swollen, he struggles to breathe and in some cases, the stomach bursts. Unfortunately, this condition is fatal in many dogs.
THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF SLOW FEEDERS
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Slow feeders are good because they reduce the rate dogs consume their food. They make it almost impossible for dogs to gulp down food, which lessens the amount of air they take in. This reduces the risk of the dog vomiting, choking or developing bloat.
Some dogs need slow feeders to (you guessed it!) make them eat slower. Eating slower is generally healthier for our canine companions. Eating too quickly can lead to vomiting, burping, flatulence, bloat or even a life-threatening emergency. Slow feeders force a dog to work around a puzzle or obstacle, which reduces the speed at which they can ingest their food. There are several reasons to give a dog a slow feeder, but not all dogs need them. For this reason, it's important to understand the advantages and disadvantages of these bowls before deciding whether they are the right option for your dog.
LIFE-THREATENING COMPLICATIONS
WHY EATING SLOWER IS HEALTHIER Dogs should eat their food slowly. When they eat too quickly, they take in a lot of air with their food. In milder cases, swallowed air travels through the gut and simply causes flatulence or comes out as burps. However, in some cases, this air can cause health issues, including abdominal sensitivity. Dogs that eat too fast will often be seen to vomit or gag after meals. The gagging and vomiting bring stomach acid into the oesophagus and ultimately back into the throat, and this can cause damage to these structures over time. In more severe cases, bloat occurs, and in rare instances, the stomach can twist, necessitating an emergency trip to the vet to save your dog's life.
WHICH DOGS NEED SLOW FEEDERS
Many dogs eat too fast. They may do this because they are hungry, food driven, anxious, bored, have a high parasite burden (making them hungry all of the time) or are trying to get their food down before another animal steals it from them.
This thatatetwiststomachshowsimageainadogthathisfoodtooquickly.Thedoublebubblepatternseenhereindicatesstomachtorsionhasoccurred. DQ | 2CDOG34 BEHAVIOUR
Eating fast is just as risky for puppies as for older dogs. Puppies tend to be quick eaters and just love to run around and play straight after a meal. For these reasons, puppies should be given a slow feeder bowl to stop them from gobbling their food too quickly. The puzzle or obstacle in the slow feeder makes it impossible for a puppy to quickly swallow all the food in the bowl, which minimises the amount of air they take in when eating. This reduces the risk of them getting sick after eating or developing bloat.
Dogs who are of the following breeds or display the following traits are more likely to get bloat than other dogs and should be given a slow feeder as a priority:
HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU USE A SLOW FEEDER A slow feeder should be used with every meal. It is better to divide a dog's daily food allowance into at least two smaller meals and then use the slow feeder for each one of these.
• Large breed dogs that are over five years old, such as Labradors and Golden Retrievers
• Dogs that eat from a raised food bowl
• Dogs that eat very quickly
• Deep-chested dogs with chests that reach or fall below their elbows, like Dobermans, Standard Poodles, and OtherBoxersdogs may not need slow feeders, and in some cases the slow feeder can exacerbate frustration or anxiety issues. Dogs with flat faces may also struggle to use slow feeders. If your dog seems to eat at a reasonable pace and does not fit into any of the categories in the list above, you probably don't need to invest in a slow feeder.
PUPPIES AND SLOW FEEDERS
HOW SLOW FEEDER BOWLS WORK
Slow feeder bowls:
• Make eating more fun for dogs and provide mental stimulation, helping to curb boredom.
• Giant breeds that are older than 3, such as Irish Wolfhounds and Great Danes
Slow feeder bowls are bowls with a raised piece or pieces or a puzzle inside. Kibble is placed along the puzzle’s pathways or around the raised objects. The dog will need to lick or scoop out the kibble from around these objects. This takes time and accuracy, so the dog automatically eats slower than when he has access to all of the food at once in his regular bowl.
• Slow down dogs that eat fast, which reduces the incidence of burping, flatulence, vomiting, gagging and bloat.
ADVANTAGES OF SLOW FEEDERS
• Dogs that like to run around and play immediately after eating
• Fulfil dogs' natural instinct to 'work' for food.
• Give dogs time to feel full, so they are less inclined to eat as much as when they eat quickly.
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TAKE-HOME MESSAGE
• Can make eating more difficult for dogs with flat faces because the shape of their face makes it almost impossible to reach the food inside the puzzle (lick mats are a better option for flat-faced dogs).
• Take your dog to the vet for a check-up and deworm him as instructed to ensure there aren't other health issues like parasites that are making him excessively hungry.
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If you'd prefer not to use a slow feeder, there are other options for slowing your dog's eating rate down to a healthy pace. Here we list a few of our best suggestions:
• Are more expensive than normal dog food bowls.
• Can lead to some dogs becoming very frustrated and even aggressive when they struggle to get access to their food.
• Can make anxious dogs more anxious.
Slow feeders are great tools for many dogs who eat too quickly or are from breeds particularly predisposed to bloat. With numerous advantages to their use, there really isn't anything to lose from letting your dog try one!
• Can result in fussy eaters eating even less as more effort is involved in ingesting the food. Dogs with flat slowtomayfacesstruggleeatfromfeeders.
OTHER OPTIONS FOR SLOWING FOOD INTAKE
• Need to be matched to the size and eagerness of your dog. Dogs that chew their bowls or are larger may need a stronger bowl than smaller or calmer dogs.
DISADVANTAGES OF SLOW FEEDERS
• Break up your dog's daily food allowance into multiple small meals and give these throughout the day.
Slow feeder bowls:
• Hide bits of the dog's daily allowance of kibble around the room or house, and then let your dog go 'hunting' for the food.
• Get a qualified animal behaviourist to help train your dog to trust the people and animals around him not to take his food. If your dog realises his food is safe and nobody will take it from him, he may begin to eat more slowly.
• Use kibble from your dog's daily allowance as treats to break up feeding into very small portions.
• Can be difficult for some dogs to understand.
PROGRAMMESREDUCTIONRANK WHY THEY HAVE NO PLACE IN DOG TRAINING TODAY
AND
DQ | 2CDOG38 BEHAVIOUR
TEXT: SARAH WANLESS Rank Reduction Programmes (RRPs) were developed as a response to behavioural problems in dogs. RRPs are based on the thinking that all behavioural problems are simply dominance problems and that a dominant dog can be dealt with by reminding the dog of his position at the bottom of the familial pack while reaffirming the owner's position as the Alpha [1]. Despite plenty of scientific evidence indicating that RRPs are outdated and harmful methods of training, many trainers and owners continue to use them today as the basis of their methods for dealing with 'problem behaviour'. Here we look at exactly why these theories are so misguided and, indeed, harmful to our canine companions and their bond with us.
DQ | 2C 39 DOG BEHAVIOUR
ORIGINS RRPs originated from outdated dominance theory principles derived from the now debunked Wolf Pack Theory. This theory postulated that, as dogs are descended from wolves, the same familial structure of wolves would be applicable to dogs. However, most of the early information pertaining to wolf pack structure and dynamics was taken from the study of estranged wolves in captivity by Zimen in 1997. In this study, violent fights were commonly reported between both males and females and assumed to be over dominance [2].Thankstothe
work of Mecc, published in 1999, after his extensive observation of wolves in the wild over a period of 13 summers, the true dynamic of wolf packs has been brought to light. Mecc's work revealed that a typical wolf pack is a family unit comprising the breeding pair (adults) and their offspring, ranging from 1-3 years old. The youngsters will then leave the pack when they become sexually mature and form a family pack of their own. There are seldom violent conflicts between the pack, with most conflicts being resolved with vocalisations and body language, and the position of 'Alpha' never being contested [3].
While this is already a convincing argument for RRPs and dominance theory having no place in dog training, studies of feral dogs provide even more compelling evidence that the rationale behind these methods is flawed. Feral dogs form loose, unstructured, temporary social structures and not tight, bonded family packs. The family unit isn't a key component of feral dogs, and the survival of the pups isn't as of paramount importance as it is in wolf packs. In addition, feral dogs, and dogs in general, have evolved into scavengers, no longer needing to work together to hunt. Essentially, even in closer relatives to our domesticated dogs, the dominance theory holds no weight, and RRPs have no place [4].
As a final argument, it is also worth noting that as humans are incapable of the same vocal or physical communication as dogs, there is really no way a dog would consider a human as one of his own species/pack or himself to be part of the human pack.
DQ | 2CDOG40 BEHAVIOUR
• you shouldn't play tug-of-war games with your dog [5].
• your dog shouldn't be allowed to come to you to initiate contact and get attention
At the onset, it is evident that one of the main issues with an RRP approach is that all behavioural problems are lumped together and are viewed as dogs simply being dominant. This is problematic for several reasons. Any behavioural problem needs to be addressed holistically, looking at all elements of the dog's life (breed, physical and mental stimulation, lifestyle, diet, health conditions and ruling out pain, to name a few). After all these elements have been examined, a plan needs to be developed to address the cause of that specific behaviour. Simply attributing the problem to the outdated construct of dominance thus neglects finding or indeed addressing the actual cause of the behaviour. So, while an RRP may seem, on the surface, to address the behaviour, in fact, the behaviour is merely suppressed (as the issue has not been dealt with). This means that as an appropriate behaviour has not been taught and reinforced and subsequently re-reinforced, so when life returns to normal, it is likely that the 'problem behaviour' will reappear.
• dogs shouldn't be allowed to sleep on the bed or couch
THE DANGERS OF RRPS
DQ | 2C 41 DOG BEHAVIOUR
Secondly, by denying your dog previously allowed comforts, such as sleeping on the bed, seeking contact and comfort or having unfettered access to toys, you are, in effect, indiscriminately punishing the dog. This is psychologically cruel to the dog and, most of the time, will not result in successfully replacing the problem behaviour. If the behaviour doesn't reoccur, it won't be as a result of a positive experience for your dog and will have come at a cost. This punishment can lead to future conflicts, depression, behaviour suppression and learned helplessness [6]. This is because all dogs will have some form of emotional response to the RRP, whether that is going on the offensive (in the case of the dog trying harder to access the now restricted resources, which can result in increased aggression) or the defensive (with the dog
•strategies: theowner should always eat before the dog (based on the notion that the pack leader eats first)
• dogs shouldn't go through the doorway first
An RRP is premised around methods assumed to be utilised in wolf (and by ancestral association dog) packs to maintain the pack hierarchy and quash any unwanted behaviour by pack members. An RRP encourages the owner to adopt the principles listed below in an attempt to mimic an 'Alpha wolf' and thereby reinforce their status as leader of the pack. The following are a few of the methods that have been adapted and are commonly applied in many RRP
WHAT DOES A RANK REDUCTION PROGRAMME INVOLVE?
[2] Kerkhove, van., W. (2004). A Fresh Look at the Wolf-Pack Theory of Companion-Animal Dog Social Behavior. Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science. 7(4), 279–285.
[4] Kerkhove,[3] Ibid. van., W. (2004). A Fresh Look at the Wolf-Pack Theory of Companion-Animal Dog Social Behavior. Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science. 7(4), 279–285.
Finally, in instances where the behavioural issue is fearbased, it has been noted that using punitive measures (such as RRPs) can reinforce that fear response and, as mentioned above, worsen the behaviour rather than correct it [9]. by wolves or by dogs. As such, attempting to establish hierarchy and assert dominance will not hold much weight in terms of communicating and coexisting peacefully with our canine companions. It is an unfortunate characteristic of humans that we anthropomorphise many things in our lives, including dogs. Sadly, this is often to the detriment of our canine companions. A dog is a dog and knows he's a dog. Therefore, any attempt on our part to communicate our misguided understanding of dominance (another human construct) with them will be misunderstood, will not have the desired effect and worse yet, is likely to cause harm [10].
[9] Smith, M. (2012). Time for a sharp exit for canine dominance theory? Available
[10] Eaton,uploads/wp-post-to-pdf-enhanced-cache/1/time-for-a-sharp-exit-for-canine-dominance-theory.pdf (AccessedFrom: https://www.vettimes.co.uk/app/17July2022). B.(2010).DominanceinDogsFactorFiction?(PDFversion)Pg.48-49.
[8] Discussion – Verushka Pillay: Certified trainer and behaviorist, Thinking Pets and Canine Communications.
REFERENCES
DQ | 2CDOG42 BEHAVIOUR
[1] Eaton, B. (2010). Dominance in Dogs Fact or Fiction? (PDF version) Pg. 46.
[5] Eaton, B. (2010). Dominance in Dogs Fact or Fiction? (PDF version) Pg. 46.
In addition to the psychological harm that implementing an RRP can cause, your relationship with your dog will also be compromised. Activities such as playing with your dog, cuddling with your dog on the bed or couch and stroking/ petting your dog are all proven to be bonding activities that strengthen your relationship. By withholding these activities, damage will be done to your relationship [8].
[6] Eaton, B. (2010). Dominance in Dogs Fact or Fiction? (PDF version) Pg. 47. [7] Eaton, B. (2010). Dominance in Dogs Fact or Fiction? (PDF version) Pg. 48.
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SERVICE DOGS
Shortly after my Grampa's passing in 2018, and with no training of any description, Tammy began alerting my Gran to the end of the washing machine cycle. It made me wonder if we could train Tammy to alert or help her in other ways when I'm not around or if she can't get to her phone in an Overemergency.theyears,
ue to the nature of my work, I often sit on one side of Cape Town for a few days, as my grandmother sits alone at home on the other side of Cape Town with Tammy, her small but feisty, 9 year old rescue.
There are quite a few common misconceptions regarding service dog training and fostering, which I wanted to confirm or dispel for myself because of my curiosity about training Tammy. Of course, this investigation led to multiple conversations and a rabbit hole of eye-opening research.
According to Tabitha Stokes, an ASCT certified Master Trainer working with Honey's Garden, as well as the everdiligent Lauren, training a service dog is about training both owner and dog, mentally and physically.
D
TEXT: LEE VAN HUYSSTEEN DQ | 2C44
Multipurpose Assistance Dogs have the most varied task work, needing to be completely comfortable in any environment their match (future owner) may frequent;
HONEY’S GARDEN ALERTMEDICAL DOGS
SPECIALIST SERVICE DOGS
I have crossed paths with a few pets wearing descriptive vests such as 'do not pet', 'up for adoption' or 'back away slowly if you value your limbs' (just kidding); however, I have rarely seen a service dog vest. Honestly, I hadn't given it much thought until Lauren Son, dog mom of Cooper (@cooper_the_chocodile on Instagram), began fostering Purdy for Honey's Garden back in December 2021.
THE ROLES To train either dog or human is not a small endeavour for variousLaurenreasons. willbefostering Purdy, in this context known as a programme dog, for 18 months. That is the average length of time to complete the training because the dog challenging time acclimating to their new owner once they areOnmatched.theother hand, you have what is referred to as an owner-trained dog. This is when the owner is trained to train the dog because they have purchased the dog with the specific intention of being their service dog. In this case, the benefit is that the dog has those 18 months of bonding time and familiarity firsthand with the owner's
DQ | 2C 45 SERVICE DOGS of-month Saturday.
DQ | 2C 47 SERVICE DOGS routine and lifestyle. The responsibility, however, now lies with the owner to constantly repeat and reinforce the training, which is a complex and time-and-energy-consuming necessity not to be taken lightly.
THE COSTS INVOLVED
The whole point of owning a service dog can mean the difference between a potential tragedy and a peaceful night's sleep, according to founder Lucy Breytenbach in one emotional interview. "It's quite expensive to train a dog like this, but if they have their dog for ten years and they save their life once, it's worth it."
Honey's Garden is an NPC (Non Profit Company) and relies solely on private donations and funding from the corporate sector. Other ways in which the Honey's Garden team can keep doing this vital work is through their volunteering and sponsorship programs. The public can sponsor the full training fee of R120k, the future match's portion of R60k, or a 2-week partnership graduation workshop of R5000. Individuals can also volunteer at the local scout hall to help Honey's once a week. However, once a new facility has been established, a wider variety of volunteering options will be available to the public. This means Honey's Garden will also be able to offer once-off corporate team building visits, school group educational visits, and community outreach events. This should all help to raise awareness and hopefully funds.
As we all know, you don't get involved with charity and welfare to retire at 30 on some tropical island. It's certainly not a place to make your millions. So why do we do it?
Right now, the cost to fully train a service dog is around R120k, of which Honey's asks half that from the future owners but is consistently looking for new ways to lessen that amount. That amount covers the training fees, food (graciously sponsored by Hills) and treats, accessories and potential medical needs, just to name a few. One of the reasons this cost, and the ask, are so high is due to the loss of the Honey's Garden farm training facility during the pandemic. As a result, trainers now travel from foster home to foster home to train the dogs. By picking up and dropping off trainees at their foster homes, they are assisting Honey's by carrying the burden of the everrising fuel costs themselves. These training sessions could last from one hour to half a day, and because of the need to travel, trainers are limited to staying within the Blouberg area.
For the love, of course. Not only the love of the service of giving back but the love of the animals themselves.
THE DOGS
TAKE-HOME MESSAGE
Wherever possible, Honey's Garden enlists rescue dogs from various re-homing organisations to give them a second chance at life, no matter their breed. They also take on donated puppies from breeders who would thrive in their programme.Thequalities needed to be a service dog are strict, so they need to have the correct character and work ethic to have a future career as a service dog. It is for this reason that current pets, however well trained, highly intelligent and totally adored they may be, would not necessarily make ideal service dogs, like I had in mind for Tammy.
I asked Lauren if she would consider taking Cooper, her own dog, through the training. She unequivocally and very honestly answered no. Tabitha agreed, suggesting that the mental and emotional transition for both pet and owner would likely prove challenging if trying to transition from beloved pet to responsible service animal.
DQ | 2CSERVICE48 DOGS
It is awe-inspiring to learn about what is involved in training dogs, even more so, the intricacies of training service dogs, and absolutely mind-blowing when all of this is happening within your circle where you can see it first hand.
FOCUS
• Mesocephalic skulls (Labrador, Beagle, Border Collie, Dalmatian etc)
• Dolichocephalic skulls (Sighthounds, Afghan Hound, Greyhound, Dachshund etc) MESOCEPHALY
This is the most common skull shape in dogs. If the breed doesn’t have a very short nose or a very long nose, it has this type of skull. These breeds don’t have specific issues due to their skull shape. DID YOU KNOW? There is a technical way to determine the dog’s head shape, and this involves computing what is called the ‘Cephalic Index’. To calculate the Cephalic Index, you measure the skull at the widest point, then multiply by 100 and divide the result by the maximum length of the skull. Smaller values are associated with dolichocephalic dogs (long-headed), and larger values indicate brachycephalic dogs (short-headed).
• Brachiocephalic skulls (Bulldogs, Boxers, Pugs etc)
There are three main types of skulls in dogs:
DQ | 2CFOCUS52 DOLICHOCEPHALY Several breeds have this type of skull. They can be prone to an ‘overbite’, which means that their upper jaw protrudes over their lower jaw.
DID YOU KNOW? If you look at the skulls here, you will see that dogs don’t have a completely round bony eye socket (orbit) like humans and most other species. Instead, their orbit is open at the back, and a strong ligament and muscles are required to keep the eye in place in the socket.
EXCEPTIONS As with all things, some exceptions fall outside of these three main categories. For example, the Chihuahua and Bull Terrier have different skull shapes.
Holes
Chihuahuas have a very rounded skull. They are the only dog breed who have holes in their skull when they are adults. This seems to be because of their small size but makes them even more fragile as their skull is not strong. A Bull Terrier’s head looks different than a standard dog head because it’s the only breed with a fully round forehead.
DQ | 2C FOCUS53
INSTRUCTIONS
EGGS are a great source of protein and are easily digestible for dogs.
• A couple of spoonfuls of cottage cheese, which can be added to the cooked omelette just before you roll it up.
• Some cooked meat or fish which can be added just as the omelette sets.
• Cooked, finely chopped broccoli, green beans or kale can be added in during the cooking process.
Tasty treats for your pup
2. Once the omelette is fully cooked and set you can tip it out onto a plate to cool.
DQ | 2CCANINE54 NUTRITION PART 1: OMELETTES
NOTE: If your dog doesn’t eat all of the omelette, leftover omelette can be kept for one day in the fridge, provided it is covered.
INGREDIENTS ¼ tsp olive oil 2 eggs, lightly beaten Optional extras:
The most important consideration is just to make sure that you cook the eggs through completely as uncooked egg white can lead to a biotin deficiency, which can result in skin and coat issues. Admittedly they would have to eat quite a lot of uncooked egg white to lead to this issue, but it’s just not worth the risk.
1. Warm the oil in a small, non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Tip in the eggs, and as they begin to set, tilt the pan and lift up the edges of the omelette with a spatuala. This allows the uncooked egg to run around the sides.
DID YOU KNOW? Eggshells are a good source of calcium. You can dry them in the oven on a low heat and blitz them into a powder using a food processor or Nutribullet. You can then keep the powder and sprinkle it over your dog’s food. 55 CANINE NUTRITION
In male dogs, the operation involves the removal of both testicles. These are removed by carefully cutting through the skin just in front of the scrotum and through the various layers which cover the testicle. The very large blood vessels and the spermatic cord must be tied carefully before cutting to allow for the removal of the testicle. The layers are then closed up with sutures, which may be visible on the surface or buried.
NOTE: If the testicles are not descended, the operation is more complex and may involve the vet going into the abdomen to locate the testicle and remove it. The recovery time from neutering with undescended testicles is thus much longer than for descended testicles.
WHAT TO EXPECT
In female dogs, the operation involves the removal of the ovaries and uterus (an ovariohysterectomy). The surgeon opens the abdomen by cutting through the various layers. The first ovary is located, and the blood vessels are tied off before it can be cut free at one end, and then this is repeated for the second ovary. The main body of the uterus
DQ | 2CDOG58 HEALTH
A NOTE ON DIET AFTER NEUTERING Sometimes spaying and neutering are associated with weight gain, which is due to the hormonal changes that take place afterwards. Onaverage, a spayed or neutered dog requires about 30 per cent fewer calories to maintain their weight. You should talk with your vet about a specific recommendation for your dog.
Your vet will then likely advise you not to feed your puppy the night before the procedure to reduce any potential complications from the anaesthesia.
In male dogs, the benefits of neutering include the prevention of breeding, the prevention of testicular cancer, the reduction in the risk of prostate problems and the modification of specific behaviours. NOTE: Neutering will only improve behaviours related to male hormone levels, so castration is never an alternative to proper socialisation andThetraining. mainadvantages of spaying your female dog are preventing pregnancy, preventing infection of the uterus, preventing ovarian or uterine cancer and reducing the likelihood of mammary (breast) cancer, all of which can be life-threatening. Spaying also prevents your bitch from coming into season, removing male dogs' unwanted attention.
The main disadvantages of having your dog neutered or spayed are the risks associated with any general anaesthetic and any operation. In females, there is also a risk of urinary incontinence later in life.
When you set a date for your puppy to be neutered, your vet may want to do a pre-anaesthetic check-up a day or two before the procedure to assess their general health. This assessment usually involves a physical examination and bloodwork to check liver and kidney function, as well as ensure there are no current illnesses. In the case of male dogs, the vet will also check to ensure that both testicles are fully descended into the scrotum.
BENEFITS OF NEUTERING OR SPAYING
• Your puppy might whimper as they recover from their procedure. This could be due to disorientation from anaesthesia or from pain. The best advice, in either case, is to contact your vet.
The decision to spay or neuter your dog is personal and should be made after a discussion with your vet. In most cases, the benefits will outweigh the risks, but it is not the case that every single dog must be spayed or neutered as a matter of course.
• Check the wound regularly to ensure it is clean and healing well.
DQ | 2C 59 DOG HEALTH
RECOVERY TIME
Your vet will probably want to schedule a post-operative check-up several days after the operation to track their recovery. If your vet has used non-dissolvable stitches, they will provide a stitch removal date, which is usually around seven to ten days after the procedure. Dissolvable stitches will dissolve over time and do not need to be removed by your vet.
• Your puppy can go outside the day after their operation but keep them on a lead until they are fully recovered.
• Puppies can sometimes get an upset stomach as a sideeffect of anaesthesia. For this reason, your vet might recommend a post-operative recovery diet for the first few meals after the operation to help calm the stomach.
FINAL THOUGHTS
• Give any medications provided by your vet according to the schedule advised.
may be applied to the wound. The procedure itself, provided it goes smoothly, usually doesn't necessitate an overnight stay. This means you will probably drop your puppy off at the vet first thing in the morning and collect them later in the afternoon.
On average, a dog's recovery time after being spayed or neutered is between seven and ten days. Males tend to heal much faster because the procedure is considerably less invasive than it is for females. While the incision heals, your dog will probably need to wear a surgical cone, so he can't get to the wound and cause damage or infection.
BASIC EXERCISES FOR YOUR DOG - Part One
Text | Bianca Rootman As physiotherapists, we spend a lot of time showing our clients appropriate exercises that they can do with their canine companions at home. An important aspect of this is what exercises are appropriate for their companion, and what to watch out for whilst doing the exercise.
Over the next few editions, we will be listing some simple exercises to try at home, what the point of the exercise is, and what to watch out for when doing the exercise.
A word of caution: not every exercise will be appropriate for your companion, and asking your companion to perform an exercise when they are weak or compromised could lead to injury, so please consult with your Veterinary Physiotherapist or Veterinarian should you have any concerns, or notice that your companion is having any difficulty in performing the exercises.
DQ | 2C60
1. STANDING The first exercise we are going to look at is standing. I’m sure many will feel standing doesn’t count as an exercise, but have you ever taken note of your dog’s ability to stand still? In fact, how long can you stand squarerly on both feet? How long does your dog stand before needing to sit or shift his/her weight, or move around? This simple, every day motion is actually quite challenging for a compromised being. Where does your companion place their legs when standing? Are they placed underneath their bodies or placed far away? Another nice aspect to take note of whilst your companion is standing is the positioning of their back. Does your companion have a straight back or is it rounded or caved in? These signs give you an indication of core and overall postural strength.
A great way to turn the simple stand into more of an exercise is to ask your companion to simply stand still for twenty seconds with all four legs placed as squarely as possible. This is often achieved by asking your companion to focus on a treat or toy that is held still in front of them. This can be repeated daily for a week, and then the next week we move to holding the position for 1 minute, and then one and a half minutes and so on. For core activation, we can simply tickle the dogs sides or belly whilst asking them to maintain the stand. If your companion is unable to stand still for more than a few seconds, this could be an indication of pain or weakness. We commonly blame an inability to stand still on the dog being easily distracted or hyperactive, when it actually often stems from an inability to stand still due to discomfort or weakness. Another great exercise to try, one that should not be done on weak or compromised dogs, is individual leg lifts. One simply places a hand on the dog’s elbow or wrist and lifts one leg at a time. Each leg can be held for ten seconds. Not only does this exercise work on weight shifting, it also requires core activation as the dog needs to rebalance when the weight is shifted. This exercise is also a great tool for pet parents to play with regularly. If one day your companion is suddenly heavier on one leg or refuses to pick one up, this weight shifting is an early indication of discomfort. Back
Arched
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ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD 154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni Contact: 083 230 2188 Email: animalhealths@gmail.com ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST 218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates Contact: 074 251 4410 Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com SIT TO STAND EXERCISE
Similarly, after correction, they will need to find an alternative source of food and water. Problem-solving like this is an essential skill for dogs to develop and one they will carry with them for the rest of their lives. Breeders often practise communal feeding during the weaning process, which further encourages problem-solving as puppies have to learn how to gain access to that resource, e.g. by climbing into the bowl, getting there first etc.
DOG
The weaning process in puppies takes place at around three weeks of age when puppies start to develop sharp teeth, and suckling becomes uncomfortable for the bitch. The weaning process is a monumental change in a puppy’s life; they go from having their every need met (being constantly fed by the bitch) to being turned away once the weaning process commences. This can make the puppies frustrated by having their constant food source removed from them and not having their needs automatically met. Yet, developing frustration tolerance is key for dogs, and it is important to note that during the weaning process, an alternative food source is available for the puppies, so their frustration is marginally mitigated, and their health and wellbeing are in no way compromised. In this way, all puppies have to do is manage the frustration, not manage any additional health challenges. The frustration experienced may lead to inappropriate outbursts of behaviour, which will be corrected by the bitch in an appropriate way, thus introducing communication and social cues to her puppies and associated appropriate responses to said communication. This type of social correction teaches them how to interact with other dogs in the future. Once the puppies have been corrected for inappropriate outbursts, they will learn how to communicate their needs correctly.
REFERENCES
[2] Discussion – Verushka Pillay: Certified trainer and behaviorist, Thinking Pets and Canine Communications. [3] Van Rooyen, C. (2021). Zoom Tutorial on Types and Breeds. (Accessed 13 July 2022). [4] Discussion – Verushka Pillay: Certified trainer and behaviourist, Thinking Pets and Canine Communications.
[1] COAPE International. (2021). Man’s Best Friend. In COAPE C01: Unit 1 Course Notes. Pg. 8.
DQ | 2C66 ?
YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED What is the importance of the weaning process in puppies?
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DQ | 2C68
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DQ | 2C70 NEXT ISSUE 15 SEPTEMBER 2022 www.dqmagazine.co.za
EDITION 15 | AUGUST 2022
