APRIL / MAY 2017 DRINKSBIZ.CO.NZ
3 TIMES RED WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR. INTERNATIONAL WINE CHALLENGE 2008, 2013 & 2016 HERE’S TO TAKING HOME A CHAMPION.
Distributed by Federal Merchants & Co. Ph: 0800 846 824 | E: info@federalmerchants.co.nz | W: federalmerchants.co.nz
PROMOTION
New to Federal Merchants & Co
Four new spirits brands have joined the Federal Merchants & Co portfolio
Casamigos Tequila GEORGE CLOONEY, Rande Gerber and Mike Meldman bring you Casamigos, a small batch, ultra-premium tequila made from the finest, hand-selected 100% Blue Weber agaves, grown in the rich red clay soil and cool climate of the Highlands of Jalisco Mexico. Casamigos Tequila uses traditional pot stills for distillation, naturally filtered water and the finest 100% Blue Weber agaves, with the agave piñas roasted in traditional brick ovens for 72 hours. Casamigos Blanco – rests for two months. Crisp and clean with hints of citrus, vanilla and sweet agave, with a long smooth finish. Casamigos Reposado – aged for seven months. Soft, slightly oaky with hints of caramel and cocoa. A silky texture with a medium to long, smooth finish. Casamigos Añejo – aged for 14 months. Pure and complex aroma, with soft caramel and vanilla notes. Perfect balance of sweetness from the Blue Weber agaves, with subtle hints of spice and barrel oak and a lingering smooth finish.
Esprit De Figues (Fig Liqueur) NOT AN ordinary liqueur, but an earthly delight. Made the old way and enjoyed in a hundred new ways. Esprit de Figues is the world’s first true fig liqueur, created with the passion and determination to capture the true essence of fresh fig. Produced and bottled with the very highest level of expertise in a 150-year-old family distillery in Burgundy, France. Esprit de Figues blends the freshest, Violette de Bordeaux Figs with the finest French techniques to create an exquisite liqueur that will appeal to people who love champagne and cocktails. Its aroma of bright, sweet, fresh figs gives way to berry jam, honey and vanilla, while the palate continues the freshness but adds raspberry jam with a hint of peach and honey. Available in 500ml.
Outerspace Vodka NOT JUST another pretty face in the crowd. Distilled from Iowa corn, this vodka is 100% gluten-free and amazingly refreshing when served ice cold. Filtered through meteorites dating back four billion years. ABV 40%. Available in 700ml and 50ml.
Wenneker Schnapps Wenneker Distilleries is a 100% familyowned company established in 1683, dedicated to the production and sale of high quality liqueurs and spirits. It is one of the oldest Dutch spirits companies and offers a wide range of cocktail liqueurs. Wenneker Schnapps is available in two flavours. Wenneker Peach – a clear and refreshing liqueur with a velvet-smooth peach taste. Wenneker Butterscotch – full of butter flavour and freshly caramelised brown sugar.
Available from Federal Merchants & Co. from April 2017 Visit online at federalmerchants.co.nz or phone 0800 846 824
FROM THE EDITOR
Grin and beer it
DRINKSBIZ APRIL/MAY 2017
stereotype so it’s on the back foot from the IF I had a dollar for every time I’ve heard “Oh, beginning. Change, however, is nigh. The you like beer, do you?” when ordering a drink Brewers Association has decided to address with people who don’t know me well, I could the misconceptions around beer and has probaby have bought Tuatara before DB did. launched a myth-busting campaign entitled It seems strange that this far into the ‘Beer - The Beautiful Truth’. It’s a voluntary development of our craft beer industry initiative in which breweries add Nutrition and diversification of the bigger breweries Information Panels (NIP) to their packaging that some people are still surprised to see in order to provide consumers with factual a woman enjoying a beer. Admittedly, “the nutritional information. It’s got major support ladies” have traditionally been a somewhat on its side already with elusive market for the beer members Lion and DB industry, partly a hangover It seems strange kicking things off and it (if you’ll pardon the pun) that this far into the will be interesting to see of the days when drinking development of our who follows suit. Colmar beer was regarded as craft beer industry Brunton research commis‘un-ladylike’ and there and diversification of sioned by the Association have been attempts (with the bigger breweries showed that 75 per cent of varying degrees of sucthat some people are those surveyed wanted to cess) to entice them with still surprised to see a see nutritional information sweeter, fruitier or lighter woman enjoying a beer. on packaging - and that offerings. number rose to 83 per cent What is it about beer when it came to women. So now, perhaps, that causes some women to wrinkle up their armed with the knowledge that most beer is noses and ask for the wine list? For many, 99 per cent sugar-free, they can find out why I think it’s simply that they haven’t tried the the rest of us are so keen on the stuff. You right beers yet. But more recently it seems can find out more about the new campaign beer’s reputation, particularly among the on pages 17 and 51. Enjoy the issue. female population, has fallen on hard times thanks to the growing healthy lifestyle trend. Victoria Wells Not that there’s anything wrong with a Editor – Drinksbiz healthy lifestyle, it’s just that beer is already victoria@drinksbiz.co.nz carrying the burden of the “beer belly”
EDITOR’S PICKS 2014 Mt Edward Central Otago Pinot Noir A rich, savoury Pinot Noir made from grapes grown in several different Central Otago vineyards. This makes me feel okay about autumn’s arrival.
Sunshine Double Happy Imperial IPA I have fond memories of Double Happies from my youth and this beer packs as big a punch as a few of those hurled onto the lawn, and is flavoursome and refreshing to boot.
Thomson Manuka Smoke Progress Report Single Malt Whisky I love the Kiwi ‘give it a crack’ attitude behind this distillery. Mat Thomson first experimented with smoking malt over Manuka on his barbecue many years ago and now this smooth, award-winning distinctly New Zealand whisky is the delicious result. DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 5
CONTENTS
Publisher Karen Boult karen@boult.co.nz +64 21 320 663 Editor Victoria Wells victoria@drinksbiz.co.nz +64 27 575 9021 Designer Lewis Hurst lewis@hcreative.co.nz +64 21 146 6404 hcreative.co.nz Advertising Roger Pierce advertising@drinksbiz.co.nz +64 9 361 2347 +64 274 335 354
The amber glow BOURBON & WHISKEY CATEGORY REPORT–PAGE 59
REGULARS Out & About Diary Dates Cover Story Industry News
drinksbiz.co.nz
BEER & CIDER 8 10 12 14
Raise a glass Beer Category Report 45
Associate Member (NZ)
Beer Column: “Beering the brunt for too long’ 51
WINE
Beer News
Chardonnay on a roll Chardonnay Report 29
SPIRITS & COCKTAILS
Limited, 300 Richmond Road,
The amber glow Bourbon & Whiskey Report 59
New Zealand,
Wine News
Drinksbiz is published every second month by Trade Media
36
High 5 Pinot, Please 40 Column: In Vino Veritas
52
42
On the dry side
66
Column: An eye on Ireland
68
Spirits News
70
Hot Mixes Whiskey a go-go 75
Grey Lynn, Auckland, phone (09) 361 2347. The contents of Drinksbiz are copyright and may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Please address all editorial, subscription and advertising
LAST ORDERS Last Requests 6 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
enquiries to Trade Media Limited, P O Box 37745,
78
Parnell, Auckland.
Join New Zealand’s leading
$SALES & SUPPORT
retail liquor franchise!
F R A NCHISEE S AT ISFAC T ION
We’re looking for super enthusiastic, quality liquor retailers to join our team. We can help you grow your business with an offer that includes: • New Zealand’s leading national advertising programme • Market leading terms and supplier arrangements • Brand strength with 130+ stores • A super responsive retail & operations support team, dedicated to your success So if you can deliver a super shopper experience, and be part of the Super Liquor brand, get in touch with one of our team members for a confidential chat.
CONVENIENT
RANGE
call us now...
GREG HOAR National Operations Manager greg@superliquor.co.nz | 027 7023971
CARRIE BENNETT Franchise Manager | Upper North Island carrie@superliquor.co.nz | 021 962759 PAUL WEBSTER Franchise Manager | Lower North & South Island paul@superliquor.co.nz | 027 4057716 130+ STORES NATIONWIDE - 100% LOCALLY OWNED & OPERATED
DEALS
SERVICE
OUT & ABOUT
Out & About
Misha’s Vineyard launches Tasting Room MISHA AND Andy Wilkinson opened their new Tasting Room overlooking Lake Dunstan with guests enjoying the wines and platters that will be on offer to visitors seven days a week.
Andy & Misha Wilkinson
Host s Ceri Rich ardson & Keeley Gilla n
Cameron Douglas
Garden Wonder with Perrier Jouët
Lauraine Jacobs and Yvonne Lorki
Carolyn Enting and Helene Ravlich
n
THE FIRST New Zealand edition of Garden of Wonder by Perrier-Jouët was held over two nights in March in the Belle Époque Private Dining Room at Clooney. The concept of the event was reintroducing nature into urban environments.
i Hyde and Ambassador), Kir Mathilde Laborde (Br and Manager) (Br w , Sasset ta Andre (Marketing Manager)
8 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 8
SUPPORTED BY
OUT & ABOUT
Veuve Clicquot’s Rosé Garden at NZ Polo Open VEUVE CLICQUOT hosted guests at its ‘Rosé Garden’ Marquee at The Land Rover NZ Polo Open in February. The space was created by floral designer Millicent Austin of La Femme Fleur. The event marked Veuve Clicquot’s sixth year of sponsorship of the NZ Polo Open.
Andy and Alan
a Barron
Stacy Gregg, Wayne
Ali Campbell and Ka
Conway and Kate Syl
vester
thr yn Wilson
n Green, Julia Leuchars, Stephe Jane Walden Green, s ble ith and Amber Pee Brooke Howard Sm
Caitlin Moses , Ka
tie Jacobs and Cr
aig Cotton
The Langham visits Wellington THE LANGHAM, a Drinksbiz partner, hosted corporate, government, TMC and PCO clients at a special evening of jazz, food, art and wine at the New Zealand Academy of Fine Arts in Wellington as a thank you for their ongoing support of The Langham Auckland and its sister hotels.
Travel) ndy Kaufman (APX Michael Shah and We
Phone 09 379 5132
Akld), Natalie (MD, The Langham Franz Mascarenhas z (NW Group) and Brendan Slabos Rooker (US Embassy)
Franz Mascar enhas and Mich ael Shah with Tourism New Zealand team
www.langhamhotels.com/auckland
Michael Shah (Langham Akld )& Daniela Gill (Mexican Embassy )
Tereza Zaicek (Rabobank) and Stephanie Clare (Age Care) NZ
83 Symonds St, Grafton, Auckland
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 9 9
DIARY DATES
Diary Dates APRIL Friday 7 – Sunday 9 April FOOD SHOW CHRISTCHURCH The country’s biggest event for foodlovers comes to Christchurch’s Horncastle Arena over three days. Food, beer, wine, coffee, kitchen equipment and more will be on display from big brands through to smaller artisan producers, along with cooking demonstrations from some of the country’s best-loved chefs. For exhibitor inquiries contact northportevents.nz/events/food-show For ticket details visit foodshow.co.nz
Saturday 8 – Sunday 9 April HERZOG HARVEST WEEKEND An opportunity to join the team at Herzog and learn all about vines and wine over one weekend during vintage with a programme of events around wine. The famous Herzog Harvest Dinner on the Saturday night can also be booked separately. For more details or bookings email info@herzog.co.nz or phone 03 572 8770
MAY Friday 12 May LANGHAM WHISKEY-MAKERS DINNER An exclusive dinner event marking the opening of the inaugural NZ Whiskey
Show at The Langham, Auckland. Whiskey makers and master distillers from around the world will host tables for a four-course whiskey-inspired menu, to be held in The Crystal Room at The Langham. Tickets available via The Langham Auckland. Phone 09 379 5132 or email fbcoordinator@langhamhotels.com
Saturday 13 – Sunday 14 May NZ WHISKEY SHOW The inaugural NZ Whiskey Show will be held in The Great Room at The Langham, Auckland and will showcase some of the top whiskey houses from around the world, with around 40 different whiskey labels taking part. Saturday’s event will be in two ticketed tasting sessions of four hours each, while Sunday will be a series of masterclasses with some of the distillers.
Saturday 20 May BLUFF OYSTER FESTIVAL A day dedicated to Bluff’s famed oyster, along with a range of Southland seafood, accompanied by local wine and beer. bluffoysterfest.co.nz
Friday 26 – Sunday 28 May FOOD SHOW WELLINGTON The country’s biggest event for foodlovers heads to Wellington’s Westpac Stadium for three days. Food, beer, wine, coffee, kitchen equipment and more will be on display from big brands through to smaller artisan producers, along with cooking demonstrations from some of the country’s best-loved chefs. For exhibitor inquiries contact northportevents.nz/events/food-show For ticket details visit foodshow.co.nz
Tickets available through houseofwhiskey.co.nz
JUNE
Saturday 13 – Sunday 14 May THE GREAT NZ FOOD SHOW – HAMILTON The Waikato’s biggest food and wine event will be at Claudelands Events Centre with exhibitors across food and beverage, appliances and homewares, and cooking demonstrations.
Thursday 15 – Saturday 17 June COURT OF MASTER SOMMELIERS PROGRAMME The Court of Master Sommeliers returns to New Zealand to offer the first two levels of its internationally recognised Sommelier Programme: Introductory Course and exams (June 15-17) and Certified Sommelier Exams (June 17). Contact Cameron J. Douglas on cameron@guildsomm.com
For more details or exhibitor info visit greatnzfoodshow.co.nz
For more about the Court of Master Sommeliers visit courtofmastersommeliers.org
Friday 16 – Saturday 17 June GABS The Great Australasian Beer Spectacular returns to New Zealand after its 2016 debut. It will be held in Auckland over two days at Greenlane’s ASB Showgrounds. gabsfestival.com
Sunday 18 – Wednesday 21 June VINEXPO BORDEAUX Regarded as the leading international wines and spirits event, Bordeaux will host Vinexpo in June with more than 2000 exhibitors booked and more than 48,000 buyers expected to attend. The 2017 event will also have a special focus on Spain, as the third largest wine exporter in the world. vinexpobordeaux.com
The Food Show Auckland 2016
10 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
they’re coming...
are you ready? 5 weeks, 7 cities, 10 matches including 3 Tests. Kicks off 3rd June 2017 ‌are you ready? Call us now on 0800 759 333 to cash in on the benefits of having SKY in your venue.
come With uS
COVER STORY – WOLF BLASS WINES
The essence of Wolf Blass wines is exemplified through the passion of its custodians – past and present – as they continuously strive to produce wines of quality, character and consistency.
Wolfgang Blass AM
12 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
COVER STORY – WOLF BLASS WINES
The Wolf Blass legacy
From the back blocks of South Australia’s Barossa Valley in the 60s, to a multiaward-winning winery on the global stage, Wolf Blass Wines continues to impress
WOLF BLASS was established in South Australia’s Barossa Valley in 1966 by founder Wolfgang Blass AM and has grown from a humble tin shed to become one of the world’s most successful and awarded wine brands. Wolf Blass boasts a bold, expansive and aspirational portfolio of wines ranging from its iconic luxury wines: Platinum Label, Black Label and Grey Label; to its popular commercial Yellow Label and Red Label tiers, which are perfect for everyday drinking. Wolf Blass has also recently launched its new range, BLASS, to the New Zealand market. This contemporary, stand-alone range is designed with the next generation Wolf Blass drinker in mind. BLASS gives the winery license to experiment with regions and varieties. A recipient of more than 9000 medals and trophies at national and international wine shows, the essence of Wolf Blass wines is exemplified through the passion
of its custodians – past and present – as they continuously strive to produce wines of quality, character and consistency.
A PROUD HISTORY Wolfgang Franz Otto Blass was born in 1934, in Germany. After Wolf ran away from school, his parents handed him an ultimatum: either start a 3-year winemaking apprenticeship or get back to class — and so began a journey that changed the winemaking world. After studying Champagne techniques in France in 1957, Wolf became the youngest person ever to graduate with a Master’s in Oenology (Wine Science) from Veitschoechheim-Wuerzberg. In 1959, he moved to England to study the art of blending before moving to the Barossa Valley in 1961, deciding against a move to Venezuela, which had started a revolt against its government. A mere five years later, in 1966, he established Wolf Blass Wines. Wolf began working with his first wine-
maker, John Glaetzer, in 1970, and within a year John followed Wolf to his new Bilyara winery. In 1973, Wolf really hit his straps by making the first Wolf Blass Black Label. Black Label would go onto win the 1974 Jimmy Watson Trophy, an accolade that is still considered Australia’s most prestigious and sought after wine award. This victory helped provide the impetus to start exporting to the world and to establish John Glaetzer in the role of Senior Winemaker. John would go on to become one of the most proficient award-winning winemakers Australia has ever seen. And as if one wasn’t enough, Wolf Blass Wines went onto win two more Jimmy Watson Trophies in 1975 and 1976, followed by a record fourth Jimmy Watson win in 1999. Wolf Blass Wines are distributed by Treasury Wine Estates
AWARD-WINNING WOLF BLASS IN ITS 51 year history, Wolf Blass Wines has won myriad awards. Its recent accolades include: ‘Red Winemaker of the Year’ 2016, 2013, 2008 – International Wine Challenge, London ‘International Winemaker of the Year’ 2013, 2002 and 1992 – International Wine & Spirits Competition, London ‘Best of Nation’ – 2016 San Francisco International Wine Competition ‘International Winery of the Year’ – 2015 San Francisco International Wine Competition
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 13
INDUSTRY NEWS
William Grant’s shifts spirits to Federal Merchants & Co WILLIAM GRANT & Sons is moving the majority of its portfolio of spirits in New Zealand to independent beverage distributor Federal Merchants & Co, effective from May 1, 2017. Brands Glenfiddich, Grant’s and The Balvenie will move over from Lion to Federal Merchants, where William Grant & Sons brands Sailor Jerry, Tullamore D.E.W., Monkey Shoulder, Solerno and Hendrick’s are already represented. “After a fantastic partnership with Lion spanning over 30 years, the difficult decision was made to make a change as we
pursue a new consolidation strategy. We thank Lion for this long and successful partnership,” said William Grant’s General Manager Colin Rochester. “We have been proud to represent and provide substantial growth for the William Grant’s whisky portfolio in New Zealand for over three decades,” said Adrian Hirst, Lion NZ’s Marketing Director – Spirits. “We wish them all the best as they move into a new phase in New Zealand.” The new distribution agreement will see Federal Merchants bolster its premium spirits portfolio, resulting in a more compre-
New Zealand #3 wine import into USA by value
THE VALUE of New Zealand wine imported into the US has grown significantly in the past 12 months, ranking it third, according to a recent Gomberg Fredrikson Report. In 2016 the total value of New Zealand wine imported into the US reached US$400 million, now only surpassed by Italy (US$1,960 million) and France (US$1,589 million). “To be third ranking in terms of value in the world’s largest wine market is outstanding, especially given
14 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
hensive service to clients and the trade. “We’re delighted to welcome Glenfiddich, Grant’s and The Balvenie to the Federal Merchants & Co portfolio,” said Aidin Dennis, Federal Merchants & Co’s Managing Director. “We have continued to focus on premium spirit brands that delight consumers and we are privileged to strengthen our portfolio with these international market leaders. This also cements a key partnership between the two family-owned companies and we look forward to strong continued growth with our trade partners.”
New Zealand produces less than one per cent of the world’s wine,” said Philip Gregan, CEO of New Zealand Winegrowers. The US is the world’s largest and most competitive wine market. It became New Zealand’s largest market in 2015, overtaking the UK and Australia. New Zealand wine, especially Sauvignon Blanc, is very popular in the US and continues to grow at a rate much faster than the total market said Jon
Moramarco, owner of The Gomberg Fredrikson Report. “The growth doesn’t surprise me, just because of the quality and value of what New Zealand has to offer.” New Zealand wine exports have reached a record high and now stand at $1.61 billion, up 5 per cent for the year end January 2017. New Zealand wine is exported to more than 90 countries, and is New Zealand’s seventh largest export good.
Zeffer smashes $1.2m capital target in five days
ZEFFER HAS hit the ground running in Asia following a hugely successful public capital offer in March that saw the cider producer achieve its $1.2 million goal in less than a week. With plans to launch an Asian export strategy and further increase domestic resources to drive growth, the offer went live to the public on Wednesday 1st March (with a sneak preview for private investors on Tuesday 28th February) via the Snowball Effect platform. Within 48 hours, the largest independent, dedicated cider producer in New Zealand had reached its $700,000 minimum target and by the fifth day it had clocked its $1.2 million maximum target with a total of 260 investors, still with 26 days to go. Josh Townsend, Sales and Marketing Director at Zeffer, says the team is already in Asia to set up point-of-sale systems, provide customised marketing collateral, and train their local sales team. “The majority of the capital raised will be utilised to drive sales in China and Thailand,” he says. “Over the last 12-months we’ve worked to establish pricing, format and channel strategies through market research and industry support networks. Over the next three years we aim to develop the business to a highly profitable and scalable level, where
export revenue grows from 17 per cent to 50 per cent of total sales.” Domestically, funding will also be used towards completing Zeffer’s relocation to the Hawke’s Bay (to the source of the apples) resulting in annual freight savings of approximately $200,000. The award-winning cider brand, founded in Matakana by Hannah Bower and Sam Whitmore in 2009, has already experienced impressive results in the cider category, which is now worth more than $100 million per annum in New Zealand, with Zeffer alone producing over 300,000 litres per year.
Four Pillars began with a love of gin, craft, cocktails, distilling, and modern Australia. We wanted to get all of that into a bottle, so you could taste all of that in a glass. Now available across New Zealand through Tickety-Boo Liquor.
GIN MASTE R HE
S
Tickety-Boo Liquor Limited 09 377 7597 sales@tickety-boo.co.nz
T
Enjoy Four Pillars responsibly. Don’t drink more, drink better.
GOLD 2016
fourpillarsgin.com.au
INDUSTRY NEWS
DB and Lion kick off new beer campaign IN THE first step of a plan to destroy the myths around beer by providing consumers with nutritional facts, Lion and DB are the first two breweries to begin adding nutrition information panels (NIPs) to the back of bottles, cans and packaging. The voluntary initiative has been spearheaded by The Brewers Association to help consumers be more informed about what they are drinking and is part of a long-term category programme called ‘Beer – the Beautiful Truth’. Throughout the year, more than 450 million beer bottles and cans in New Zealand will carry information on sugar, calories, dietary fibre, protein and carbohydrate content. All products will
continue to carry standard drinks labelling. Colmar Brunton research commissioned by The Brewers Association found that many Kiwis are unaware that beer is low in sugar, with most beer 99 per cent sugar-free. “Almost 75 per cent of our survey respondents told us that nutritional content should be on alcohol products’ packaging,” says Kevin Sinnott, External Relations Director of the Brewers Association New Zealand. “Having nutrition labels on food is especially important to women, with 83 per cent in favour of labelling. We know that sugars and preservatives are particularly important to consumers and shoppers, so we’ve highlighted these facts.”
With DB and Lion products to start hitting the shelves soon, the Association says it would also welcome other New Zealand breweries joining the category campaign. As part of the campaign, all the nutritional information included on participating beers will also be available on the website. beerthebeautifultruth.co.nz
Senza Parole An Italian expression meaning words are not necessary to explain something that is obvious, and/or needs no more analysis or consideration. Luxardo represents the best use of this expression. Since 1821 and over six generations our family has been distilling premium beverages, re-defining the meaning of the words liqueurs and cocktails. The recent launch of Absinthe, London style dry gin and White Bitter completes a catalogue which is close to reaching 200 years of success.
Our exclusive agent in New Zealand: SUR Wines
(04) 383 9596 021 44 95 96 info@sur.co.nz
PROMOTION
Super Liquor raises bar on customer experience
A MAJOR brand refresh combined with improved in-store systems is driving a better customer journey at more than 130 Super Liquor outlets nationwide. “In order to make Super Liquor New Zealand’s leading convenience liquor retailer, we want to continue to lift our standards to ensure that consumers have an excellent shopping experience,” says Super Liquor’s National Operations Manager, Greg Hoar. The company has several additional projects planned for improving that experience, Category Management being one of them. “This project will look at decreasing clutter and poorly performing products to allow stores to have better flow, categorisation, and offer a nicer shopping experience,” explains Hoar. “We also want to embrace our suppliers to build strong, eye-catching displays, coupled with product training, so consumers are treated to an experience, as opposed to simply a purchase.” This focus on customer experience is part of Super Liquor’s aspiration to be New Zealand’s leading convenience liquor retailer – the brand choice of sociable Kiwis. “As part of this we are focused on delivering our core purpose, which is franchisee business success and satisfaction,” says Greg Hoar. “Essentially this is all about enabling franchisee store performance, profitability and success.” 18 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
The national rebrand has created a strong, consistent look and feel across the Super Liquor network and extends across all media and brand communications – from mailers to press, television, and the Super Liquor website. It is fresh and modern, with the Super Liquor brand blue and red still an integral part of the new look, but now intertwined with real-life photography and
Super Liquor’s fresh new look is underpinned by four brand pillars: Super Convenient - with 130 stores throughout New Zealand, there’s a store near you! Super Deals - plus great value every day Super Range - with all your favourite brands and more, you’ll find the perfect drink for any occasion Super Service - Come say hi to our friendly team – whatever you need we’re happy to help.
“Essentially this is all about enabling franchisee store performance, profitability and success.”
imagery to communicate Super Liquor’s vision of being the preferred brand for sociable Kiwis. Key to the future is improving retail information and systems to drive the business, franchisee performance, profitability and administration, and Hoar says Super Liquor has undertaken a POS enhancement project with this firmly in mind. Other improvements include the launch of a new store operations compliance review program intended to raise standards, enhance performance and enable franchisee benchmarking. Greg Hoar says Super Liquor is also working hard to ensure its category and product plans align with consumers’ lifestyle choices now and in the future. “Some of these include moderation and lower alcohol alternatives, volume moving to higher value and premiumisation across the categories, with appropriate new product development to the forefront, resulting from changing taste trends and the need for in-store inspiration.”
INDUSTRY NEWS
US distribution deal for Peregine PEREGRINE WINES has signed an exclusive business agreement with US company Vineyard Brands that will see its wines distributed the length and breadth of the US. The long-term relationship between the Central Otago premium wine producer and Vineyard Brands – a medium-sized importer of international wines – was cemented in March when Peregrine co-directors Lindsay, Fraser, and Jude McLachlan hosted Vineyard Brands’ President and CEO Greg Doody. Doody, who has worked for Vineyard Brands since 2014 but formally took over the top job in April 2016, has spent the past 10 months assessing his company’s producer portfolio around the world. Peregrine Wines will now continue as its sole New Zealand wine producer after the two businesses signed the long-term agreement. “This is a huge milestone for us because it gives us the reach into the world’s biggest wine market with nationwide placement, something we never envisaged we would have access to,” said Peregrine Wines managing director Lindsay McLachlan. “We’re absolutely thrilled they have selected us.” Greg Doody said his company loved the wines and the people at Peregrine. “There’s a really good story to tell about Peregrine and
(L to R) Tommy Oldre (NZ Brand Manager Vineyard Brands) and Greg Doody (President and CEO Vineyard Brands), Lindsay McLachlan and Fraser McLachlan (Peregrine Wines).
Central Otago back in the US and that’s important to us when we’re so much more than a delivery system. We can ‘sell’ that story to our distributors and in turn their sales reps can sell it to retail outlets and restaurants. “We work across all 50 states which is very different to a lot of US importers and we’re now in a good position to cement this business relationship because Peregrine has become established. We’re investing in the brand from our perspective," says Doody. “The US overtook France as the world’s largest consumer of wine back in 2013. Our consumers are now much smarter, millennials who want authenticity and transparency, to find out what the wine is all about.” peregrinewines.co.nz
Blended with only the richest Irish cream and a uniquely gently fermented alcohol, O’Mara’s is infused with a semisweet chocolate flavour with subtle coconut notes. It offers a combination of sweet luxury and extraordinary smoothness. Distributed by Federal Merchants & Co P : 0800 846 824 | E: info@federalmerchants.co.nz
INDUSTRY NEWS
Got leftovers? Call the team at KiwiHarvest
Boost for cellar door expertise A NEW training assessment designed to recognise and reward high standards of customer service at vineyard cellar doors is now available through ServiceIQ. The new unit standard dedicated to cellar door sales expertise is part of the NZ Certificate in Tourism (Visitor Experience) Level 3. The qualification can be completed on the job by staff taking care of customers at any vineyard cellar door in the country. Service IQ says the initiative recognises the increasingly important role that local
vintners play in helping to grow the country’s booming tourism industry, with more and more international visitors choosing a wine tour as part of their Kiwi experience. ServiceIQ CEO Dean Minchington says the NZQA recognised assessment is an exciting addition to the tourism qualification. “When visitors enjoy great service, it leads to great reviews and enhances the reputation of the business, and attracts even more customers.” The NZ Certificate in Tourism is a workplace assessment available now from ServiceIQ. To find out more contact Suzi Nock, ServiceIQ Tourism & Travel Sector Manager on 09 337 75333 or email suzi.nock@serviceiq.org.nz
FRESH FOOD rescue charity KiwiHarvest has opened its new headquarters in Auckland and with more space it is looking for more suppliers to work with. The not-for-profit collects quality surplus fresh food from supermarkets, wholesalers, growers, cafés and caterers and delivers it free of charge to Auckland charities, to be shared with people in need. Every month, KiwiHarvest delivers 20,000kg of food to more than 100 charities, and reduces the negative impact of food waste. KiwiHarvest follows strict food handling policies and uses refrigerated vans to ensure the integrity of the food throughout the supply chain. If your business would like to donate, or to find out more visit kiwiharvest.co.nz
New Sydney show for on-premise liquor A NEW show dedicated to the on-premise liquor industry will be held in Sydney this September 11-14, co-located with the popular Fine Food Australia. ‘Commercial Drinks’ will provide licensed hospitality operators the opportunity to browse and taste a range of liquor products, and its positioning alongside Fine
Food Australia will create a one-stop shop for trade visitors. The event will showcase more than 50 brewers, distillers, wineries, distributors, wholesalers, importers and exporters, with a focus on unique tastes from craft and artisan producers. Licensed businesses with an interest in discovering
new products, including bars, pubs, clubs, restaurants, licensed cafes, caterers, hotels and accommodation, will be invited to attend. It will also feature a four-day programme of business sessions. For details of exhibiting or visitor registrations visit commercialdrinks.com.au DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 21
INDUSTRY NEWS – SUSTAINABILITY REPORT
Sustained success
The health of sustainable winegrowing looks to be in pretty good shape, according to the first report from Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand. We highlight some of the figures gathered over the 2016 growing season*, which saw the largest number of member audits carried out since the initiative began.
More than
2500ha 83% has been set aside for BIODIVERSITY PROTECTION, restoration or enhancement by vineyards and wineries.
99%
of vineyards RETAIN PERMANENT INTERROW VEGETATION throughout the year
certified ORGANIC
(based on 1554 vineyards)
of wineries OPTIMISED WATER CONSERVATION and limited volumes to the waste system (based on 169 wineries)
50%
Since 2001, Sustainable Winegrowing NZ members have REDUCED INSECTICIDE APPLICATIONS on vineyards by more than
85%
7%
of vineyard personnel and 99% of winery personnel ATTENDED COURSES, EVENTS, OR UNDERWENT INDUSTRY TRAINING
99%
of vineyards used non-chemical cultural controls as part of their pest and disease strategy (based on 1554 vineyards)
98%
of New Zealand’s vineyard producing area was SUSTAINABLE WINEGROWING NEW ZEALAND CERTIFIED
92,033m
3
of by-product (vine prunings, grape stalks and marc) was DIVERTED FROM LANDFILL by vineyards and wineries
About Sustainable Winegrowing NZ ESTABLISHED IN 1994, Sustainable Winegrowing NZ is a voluntary industry-wide initiative aimed at providing a “best practice” environmental model for vineyards and wineries, with an external audit structure. It was one of the first sustainability programmes in the international wine sector. Its goal is to have all New Zealand grape growers and winemakers operating under approved independently audited sustainability programmes. *Source: New Zealand Winegrowers ‘Sustainability Report’ 2016 – New Zealand Wine (nzwine.com) Data was collected from 1918 vineyards and 254 wineries (SWNZ membership as at October 2016)
22 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
P ROMOTION
Serving up the best for 50 years SKOPE have been keeping drinks cold and food safe for the last 50 years so you can depend on them for the best in commercial refrigeration. Refrigeration never looked so good SKOPE are experts at combining form with function. Their stylish range of Backbar display fridges are perfect for keeping your best sellers chilled. An attractive modern frameless glass door and whisper quiet operation makes SKOPE Backbar fridges the perfect solution for front of house. Happy punters are important, so SKOPE fridges feature clever internal airflow to keep product icy cold for perfectly chilled drinks every time. When you get busy, SKOPE steps in to help you get the drinks out faster. Its fridges also feature rapid cooling technology that chills beverages to 5° (or colder) quickly and efficiently.
Not just a pretty face Don’t let inefficient refrigeration eat into your profits. SKOPE’s ActiveCore™ range of glass door merchandisers are the most energy efficient in the Southern Hemisphere, over 50% more efficient than its previous glass door range, and up to 65% more efficient than others in the market. Energy efficient refrigeration saves big dollars on your power bill – up to $1,000 per year by replacing just one fridge with a modern, energy efficient equivalent.
Customise it Want to really make a statement? SKOPE can custom build to your specific requirements. If you can imagine it then they would love to hear from you. Find what’s right for you. Visit info.skope.com/your-guide to download Your Guide to Commercial Refrigeration now. Already know what you want? Talk to SKOPE today on 0800 947 5673 or skope@skope.com
r keep q
s k n i D d l o C yo u r
s y a q w l a r
Download Your Guide to Commerical Refrigeration
info.skope.com/your-guide
INDUSTRY NEWS
Villa Maria’s night at Royal Easter Show Wine Awards THE 2017 Royal Easter Show Wine Awards were held in Auckland in early March, and Villa Maria was the most awarded winery on the night, taking three trophies as well as Champion Wine of the Show and Winemaker of the Year. The 2017 Trophy and major award winners were: Champion Wine of the Show Villa Maria Reserve Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2014 Champion Methode Champenoise or Sparkling Te Hana Reserve Cuvee NV Champion Chardonnay Villa Maria Reserve Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2014 Champion Gewürztraminer Giesen The Brothers Gewürztraminer 2014 Champion Sauvignon Blanc Thornbury Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Champion Riesling Mount Brown Estates Riesling 2016 Champion Pinot Gris Waipara Hills Pinot Gris Waipara Valley 2016 Champion Other White or Red Varieties Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Malbec 2013 Champion Sweet Wine Whitehaven Marlborough Noble Riesling 2014 Champion Rosé Whitehaven Marlborough Pinot Rosé 2016 Champion Pinot Noir Wild Earth Special Edition Pinot Noir 2014 Champion Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet predominate Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2013 Champion Merlot or Merlot predominate Mission Estate VS Merlot 2015 Champion Syrah Goldie Estate Reserve Syrah 2014 Gold Medal for Winemaker of the Year Nick Picone (Villa Maria) Heritage Rosebowl Hunter’s Wines NZ Ltd Marlborough Riesling 2006, 2010, 2016 For the list of medal winners visit wineshow.co.nz 24 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Tickety-Boo adds Four Pillars AUSTRALIAN CRAFT gin Four Pillars is now available in New Zealand through Tickety-Boo Liquor. Established in 2012, the award-winning Yarra Valley distillery produces a range of classic and innovative gins. Stock is now available, with the Bloody Shiraz and Barrel Aged Gin to be available later in the year. tickety-boo.co.nz
Veuve du Vernay to partner Netball New Zealand ONE OF New Zealand’s most widely enjoyed French sparkling wines is to partner one of New Zealand’s most widelyloved sports in 2017, with Veuve de Vernay announced as Official Wine Partner of Netball New Zealand, the ANZ Premiership and the Silver Ferns. Veuve du Vernay will support netball in one of the most highly OFFICIAL WINE PARTNER 2017 anticipated seasons in recent memory with the launch of the inaugural ANZ Premiership. “Veuve du Vernay is so excited to be partnering one of New Zealand’s highest profile sports. What a year to commence our support, this new league promises so much,” says Veuve du Vernay’s Carlos Varela. Veuve du Vernay combines French style and tradition with fantastic value. It is produced by the House of Patriache, whose cellars were founded in 1780 in the historic walled town of Beaune – the capital of the famous winemaking region located in the heart of Burgundy. eurovintage.co.nz
www.ServiceIQ.org.nz
0800 863 693
Contact ServiceIQ to find out how your hospitality or retail business can go to the next level with one small step. With ServiceIQ, your staff could even upskill for free.
The difference comes down to three words and one simple concept: on-job training.
It’s the difference between just doing the job and doing it brilliantly. So brilliantly in fact, that your customers come back more often, spend more, bring their friends and recommend you to others.
Some wine waiters and wine retailers have a talent for great service, but they still need to learn the right skills to do it well. The tricks of the wine service trade. The art of satisfying customers.
IT TAKES A LOT MORE THAN PLACING A BOTTLE OF WINE INTO A BAG AT THE CHECKOUT, OR POURING IT INTO A GLASS AT TABLE, TO BE GOOD AT GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE.
TRAINED
THEY ARE
GREAT STAFF AREN’T BORN
INDUSTRY NEWS
Paul Henry back for second vintage BROADCASTER PAUL Henry has again teamed up with Invivo to create the second vintage of his Pinot Noir – the first of which sold out in record time last year. Invivo co-founder Tim Lightbourne says the first release of Paul Henry’s Own Pinot Noir was so successful (“We’ve had people who missed out the first time contacting us on a daily basis”) that three times the amount is available in this release – 24,000 bottles – after 8000 sold out in only a week last year. Paul Henry’s Own Pinot Noir was also critically acclaimed, with wine writer Michael Cooper writing in the Listener: “It’s a skilfully crafted, mainstream style, worth cellaring, but already delicious.” Henry was again assisted by the Inivo team. Lightbourne says Henry’s second stint at the blending bench has created a unique mix that features Central Otago Pinot Noir grapes from four of Invivo’s top growers.
Glengarry’s server crashed trying to cope with the unprecedented demand for the first vintage after its release in November 2016. Glengarry general manager, Liz Wheadon says, “In the history of our company, we have never seen such traffic volumes to our website in such a short space of time”. Wheadon says it was Glengarry’s most successful launch of an individual wine, ever. Invivo also produces Graham Norton’s Own wines with UK talk show host Graham Norton, and spearheaded New Zealand’s first equity crowdfunded winery. invivo.co.nz
Paul Henry’s Own Pinot Noir Vintage: 2016 Alcohol: 14% ABV Region: Central Otago Winemaker: Paul ‘The Palate’ Henry Tasting note: Paul says “It’s got a brilliant nose, it’s smooth and rich. Full of Paul Henry” RRP: $29.99
Major sports sponsorship for Good George GOOD GEORGE Brewing has been announced as the official beer of the World Masters Games 2017 (WMG2017) being hosted in New Zealand in late April, the first time a craft brewery has held this level of sponsorship for the event. The World Masters Games is the largest multi-sport event in the world – in terms of athlete numbers it is bigger in scale than the Olympics, with 25,000 athletes from 100 different countries – making it a huge coup for the Hamilton-based brewer. Auckland and the Waikato will host the event from April 21 to 30. 26 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Good George CEO Race Louden says the beer brand and the World Masters Games are a great fit. “The games are all about having a go, enjoying the spirit of competition but having a bit of fun and celebrating afterwards.” Athletes will be invited to take their own tour of the brewery and enjoy some Waikato hospitality. There are plans for commemorative cans for the event and a series of events at Good George bars around the country. Its latest bar, Good Union, opened in Cambridge in December, where the cycling and rowing Masters Games events will be held.
World Masters Games 2017 athlete ambassador Nathan Twaddle with Good George CEO Race Louden.
P ROMOTION
Glass design that innovates and engages
Looking for a unique bottle to catch the eye and showcase your product? French company Saverglass has the answer, specialising in premium glass bottles for wines and spirits. OFFERING CUSTOMERS increasingly innovative decoration solutions that stand out and add value is quintessentially Saverglass. It collaborates with world class designers to ensure cutting edge avant garde and intriguing possibilities to both meet and surpass requirements and aspirations with its decoration capabilities. Saverglass' goal remains constant: To engage and surprise with a sublime variety of stunning designs and options. Find out more at saverglass.com or call Karen on 09 522 2990
RANKED IN THE WORLD’S TOP 5… AGAIN!
The World Association of Wine Writers and Journalists have ranked Taylors amongst the top 5 most awarded wineries in the world in 2013, 2014, 2015 and again in 2016.
8x
208 x
BEYOND E X PECTAT IONS taylorswines.com.au
CHARDONNAY CATEGORY REPORT
Chardonnay on a roll
Chardonnay is often described as a blank canvas on which a winemaker can express themselves, but the climate in which it is grown determines much about how winemakers respond to this popular French grape, explains Joelle Thomson
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 29
CHARDONNAY CATEGORY REPORT
NORTHLAND/AUCKLAND 2015 Byrne Northland Puketotara RRP $29 Chardonnay The evocative black and white sketch on the front label of this Northland Chardonnay, along with its intense buttery flavours, make it a winner with both Chardonnay lovers and those on the search for an attractive wine treat. It’s made from grapes grown in the Far North, where the warm climate provides ripe tropical fruit flavours such as ripe pineapple and honeydew melon, and creamy smoothness. 17/20 BYRNE WINES
2014 Villa Maria Single Vineyard RRP $34.99 Ihumatao Chardonnay Soft creamy flavours and a rich, full body provide the clue to this wine’s subtropical origins in the Ihumatao Vineyard in Mangere, south Auckland – an old volcanic crater in the shape of a wide shallow dish, in which vineyards flourish. This sheltered vineyard sits commandingly at the entrance to Villa Maria’s HQ. Its coastal location provides cool sea breezes, which balance the vineyard’s warm and sheltered climate. This is a Chardonnay with old style richness and new wave freshness. A winner. 18.5/20
tion to add by the glass to a restaurant or bar wine list. 17/20 Note: Soho Wines has also launched a new kid on the Chardonnay block with its 2015 Soho Jonny Marlborough Chardonnay (RRP $25). The hot days and cool nights in Marlborough give a pronounced ripe grapefruit flavour, a full body and zesty crispness. SOHO WINES
2015 Mudbrick Reserve Chardonnay RRP$48 Chardonnay is often praised as a blank canvas, but has also been accused of being a ‘neutral’ grape – so the climate in which it is grown determines much of how the winemaker will respond to the grapes and how the wine will taste. On Waiheke Island, winemaker Patrick Newton of Mudbrick Vineyard is doing new things with this extremely popular grape, as this dry, full-bodied, soft white shows. Waiheke’s climate is subtropical, with generally lower rainfall than Auckland and plentiful sunshine, providing intense flavour development and richness in this wine. 17.5/20 MUDBRICK VINEYARD
GISBORNE
VILLA MARIA
2015 Spade Oak ‘Vigneron’ RRP $34.95 Gisborne Chardonnay
2016 Soho Carter Chardonnay RRP $38
Steve Voysey makes this full-bodied Gisborne Chardonnay, putting the wine through 100% malolactic fermentation (the conversion of
Most Chardonnay drinkers are hunting for a big, buttery beauty and this wine delivers, with a measure of crisp acidity too, which adds a fresh, ripe taste. This wine is made with grapes grown on Waiheke Island, which was traditionally home to big red wines, but the most planted grape there now is Chardonnay, and with good reason, as this wine shows. It drinks well now and is an outstanding addi30 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Villa Maria’s Ihumatao Chardonnay is a Chardonnay with old style richness and new wave freshness. A winner.
malic acid to lactic acid softens the taste). Voysey is one of the region’s most experienced winemakers, and a talented creator of Chardonnay in a wide range of styles such as this dry, fresh wine with its ripe peach flavours, supported by notes of caramel, cream and butter. 18.5/20 SPADE OAK VINEYARD
2014 The Prospect Ormond/ Patutahi Gisborne Chardonnay RRP $27 This Spade Oak offering is a blend of grapes from two sub-regions of Gisborne – Ormond and Patutahi – and it’s made in a flinty, fresh but full-bodied style with ripe flavours of sweet nectarines and yellow peaches. If this wine initially seems restrained and zesty, serve it in a large glass and watch its big, rich flavours of toasty oak and creaminess kick in. It was aged for 12 months in French oak. 18.5/20 SPADE OAK VINEYARD
2014 Spade Oak ‘Voysey’ Gisborne RRP $19.95 Chardonnay Talk about a step up from the old days of Kiwi Chardonnay – today’s versions are on a roll and it’s big rich wines with soft, smooth restraint and balance, like this one from Gisborne winemaker Steve Voysey, that lead the way. This is an unconventional blend too; it is labelled Chardonnay but actually contains 12% Viognier as well. (By law, anything under 15% content does not need to be declared on the front label in New Zealand, as in many other countries too). This wine was aged for 14 months prior to bottling and 15% of the wine spent that time in new oak with lees stirring to enhance the creamy texture and add length of flavour. 17/20 SPADE OAK VINEYARD
CATEGORY REPORT C HARDONNAY
The Millton Opou Vineyard Gisborne Chardonnay is one of Gisborne’s greatest Chardonnays every year – a high quality wine with a price tag that does not truly reflect the hard work that has gone into its making.
2015 Crazy by Nature Shotberry Chardonnay RRP $22 We’re all a little crazy, says winemaker James Millton, who makes this full-bodied certified organic (Bio-Gro) Chardonnay in Gisborne. Millton is the king of organic wine pioneering in New Zealand, and of Gisborne’s experimental wine scene. He is also an innovator when it comes to spearheading sensational full-bodied, classic white wines made from Chardonnay. This is smooth, soft and citrusy with an appealing price tag and made in a ‘drink-me-now’ style. 16.5/20 VINTNERS NZ
2015 Millton Opou Vineyard Gisborne Chardonnay RRP $30 This wine is certified organic (Bio-Gro) and biodynamic (Demeter) and is made from handpicked grapes grown on the Opou Vineyard, which was planted in Gisborne in 1969. The grapes were pressed straight into small French oak barrels, just 15% of which were new, which adds subtle spicy flavours and harmonious integration of oak, while allowing the ripe stonefruit (white peach, ripe nectarines and apricots) to shine in this dry wine. It is one of Gisborne’s greatest Chardonnays every year – a high quality wine with a price tag that does
not truly reflect the hard work that has gone into its making. 18.5/20 VINTNERS NZ
2016 Matawhero Church House RRP $25.90 Chardonnay You will find plenty to love in this bone dry, full-bodied, barrel fermented Gisborne Chardonnay. I love the taste of Chardonnay when it’s encouraged to shine in wines such as this one, which is made with grapes harvested in relatively cool morning temperatures to accentuate its fresh flavours and refreshing acidity. It spent four months on lees, which adds savoury nutty flavours to balance the big buttery, caramel and creamy notes. The finish is long and tasty. 18.5/20 HANCOCKS
HAWKE’S BAY 2014 Red Barrel Hawke’s Bay RRP $28 Chardonnay This is a whopper of a wine from Hawke’s Bay that is big in every way: from its flavours of ripe peach, nectarine, caramel, toasted nuts and salted butter, to its full body, to its bright fresh acidity that adds zest and length of flavour to every complex sip. This is a crowd pleaser with beautifully balanced flavours and a long finish. 18.5/20 RED BARREL
2015 Te Awanga Estate Hawke’s RRP $20 Bay Chardonnay Rod McDonald is one of the most consistent high quality winemakers in Hawke’s Bay and the man behind this big, full-bodied, creamy Chardonnay, which gains its richness of flavour from the winemaking bells and whistles of barrel fermentation and restrained but toasty oak. These are offset by zesty citrus and bright but
Chardonnay on the up CHARDONNAY HAS doubled in the past 10 years, in terms of how much of it is grown for winemaking globally. Chardonnay is the third most planted grape variety overall in New Zealand and has declined marginally over the past decade, partly so that winemakers can replant better grapes on more favourable land – all in a bid to up the quality stakes of this wine.
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 31
CHARDONNAY CATEGORY REPORT
balanced acidity, which adds length of flavour and is due to the relatively cool coastal area of Te Awanga, where the grapes in this wine were grown. 18.5/20 RM WINE CO
2016 Ngatarawa Glazebrook RRP $20 Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay winemaker Alwyn Corban comes from a long line of winemakers: his greatgrandfather, Assid Abraham Corban, was the Lebanese immigrant who founded Corbans Wines (a brand now owned by Pernod Ricard NZ). It’s heartening to see family members remain on the wine scene, creating smoothly drinkable wines such as this full-bodied, peachy Chardonnay with its creamy aromas, citrus flavours and lingering finish. 17/20 Note: The 2016 Ngatarawa Stables Reserve Chardonnay from Hawke’s Bay provides great drinking at RRP $13.99 – making it a good deal as a glass pour in restaurants and bars.
(that’s the acidity kicking in on the mid-palate). This wine’s concentration of flavour is exceptional and due partly to it being made from the Mendoza clone of Chardonnay – also known as ‘the hen and chicken Chardonnay grape’ as its bunches yield big and small grapes, providing a wide range of different flavours. If you love Chardonnay, here’s your wine. 18.5/20 QUENCH COLLECTIVE
2016 Church Road Hawke’s Bay RRP $19.95 Chardonnay This is my style of Chardonnay: fresh fruitdriven flavours with subtlety; zesty caramelized lemon aromas; and flavours of passionfruit and nectarines. This wine is a stunner every year, thanks to Hawke’s Bay winemaker Chris Scott, who outdoes himself with his dedication to top winemaking. 18.5/20 PERNOD RICARD
NELSON/MARLBOROUGH 2014 Charles Wiffen Marlborough RRP $24.55 Chardonnay This is Chardonnay as it should be: fresh, creamy and full-bodied with a crunchy bite of crisp, freshly picked red apples and tropical flavours of pineapple, rock melon, and juicy sweet lemons. Its cooler climate origin in Marlborough shines in its zingy acidity, which adds a crisp freshness that is balanced by full barrel fermentation of nine months in French oak, 25% of which was new. 18.5/20 CHARLES WIFFEN WINES
2015 Te Mania Chardonnay RRP $29.99 All the creamy bells and full-bodied whistles are present in this richly flavoursome dry white from Nelson winemaker Steve Gill, who packs powerful tropical flavours into this complex
HANCOCKS
2016 Mission Estate Reserve RRP $29 Barrique Chardonnay Mission Estate winemaker Paul Mooney makes a range of top quality Chardonnays across all price levels, from modest supermarket styles up to the winery’s flagship Jewelstone and Huchet Chardonnays. This wine sits in the middle of the range, with wide distribution and an attractive price tag, with its flavours of ripe peaches, cream and toasted hazelnuts. 17.5/20 MISSION ESTATE
2015 Sacred Hill Riflemans Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay
RRP $69 This is big, buttery and beautiful – a top drop from Hawke’s Bay that is driven as much by rich creaminess as it is by zesty crispness
32 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Mission man’s barrique Chardonnay Mission Estate winemaker Paul Mooney made the wine that is thought to be New Zealand’s first hand-picked, whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented Chardonnay in 1993. To mark 30 consecutive vintages of barrel fermented Chardonnay at Mission Estate, the winery released a limited edition of its top white wine – the 2013 Huchet Chardonnay. “We rely heavily on hand harvesting and whole bunch pressing for our barrel fermented Chardonnays. We believe these traditional French techniques produce wines that over deliver in all the key sensory attributes,” says Mooney, of the wine, which was individually numbered and boxed. The wine is RRP $89 a bottle and is available online at missionestate.co.nz
CATEGORY REPORT C HARDONNAY
Chardonnay. It is also certified organic. 16.5/20 TE MANIA WINES
2014 Mud House Hungry Hill RRP $26.99 Chardonnay This big Marlborough Chardonnay is made from grapes that were hand-harvested just shy of Easter 2014. It’s a dry full-bodied wine, with spicy aromas adding complexity to its peachy fruit flavours. It was aged in 100% French oak barriques, 20% of which were new, and it cruises in at a moderate 13% ABV. 17.5/20 HANCOCKS
2015 Whitehaven Marlborough RRP $24 Chardonnay Top drinking from Marlborough – full-bodied and dry with an outgoing personality of ripe melon and stonefruit, supported by firm, zingy
acidity that underpins the flavours with a zesty crunch and long finish. This is a beautifully balanced South Island white that drinks well now and will continue to offer great drinkability for the next four to five years. 17/20 WHITEHAVEN WINES
2015 Nautilus Chardonnay
RRP $36 It’s amazing what time can do to good wine, enabling it to age and gain complex flavours that span everything from fresh fruity aromas through to creamy, spicy, nutty, oatmeal-like tastes. In the case of Nautilus Chardonnay time seems to stand still, as a retrospective of this outstanding wine showed last year. When youthful it is bone dry, full-bodied and citrusy with complex but restrained notes of butter, and now that it is sealed with a screwcap it retains these flavours as it develops gracefully into a fresh and zesty full-bodied white. This wine also offers outstanding value for money, thanks to great winemaking from Clive Jones. 18.5/20 NEGOCIANTS
2015 Awatere River by Louis Vavasour Single Vineyard RRP $29.99 Chardonnay Big, buttery and beautiful. This Marlborough Chardonnay pays tribute to Louis Vavasour, whose family pioneered winemaking in the Awatere Valley, south of Marlborough, in the late 1880s. This wine is dry, full-bodied and complex with flavours of fresh lemon, toasted almonds and a creamy finish, balanced by zingy acidity that stretches flavours out to a lingering tasty grand finale. 17.5/20 FEDERAL MERCHANTS
Paul Mooney
2015 Giesen The Brothers RRP $24.99 Chardonnay French and German oak barrels were used to mature this delicious full-bodied, Marlborough Chardonnay. Made from grapes grown on five different vineyards and all hand harvested, the wine was matured for 11 months in a combo of new 300 litre French and 1000 litre German oak barrels. It’s dry with complex spice, cream and oatmeal flavours driving it to a long finish. 18.5/20 GIESEN WINES
2015 Marisco The King’s Bastard RRP $22.95 Chardonnay Five Marlborough vineyards grew the grapes that made their way into this delicious fullbodied, crisp and creamy southern white. Crisp AND creamy? Yes indeed, thanks to just the right amount of malolactic fermentation (that’s the conversion to creamy softness) coupled with Marlborough’s cool, fresh citrus characters, which provide this wine with its lingering, flavoursome finish. A star. 17.5/20 MARISCO VINEYARD
CANTERBURY 2015 Greystone North Canterbury RRP $95 Erin’s Chardonnay Just 44 cases of this wine were made from a steep one hectare block of Chardonnay grown on limestone-rich soil in North Canterbury, which produces low yields of grapes with rich flavours of concentrated ripe white peach, zingy acidity and a full body. This stellar new wine has a long and flavoursome finish and is sold only through the cellar door at Greystone Wines in North Canterbury. It’s worth beating a path to. 19/20 GREYSTONE WINES
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 33
CHARDONNAY CATEGORY REPORT
2015 Silver Wing Nada Preservative-Free Chardonnay RRP $36 The words ‘preservative-free’ are almost guaranteed to find a ready market of enthusiastic wine drinkers and this North Canterbury wine delivers on another count too: it tastes great. It’s made from hand-picked grapes grown on 20-year-old vines in North Canterbury, one of this country’s most quality focused and underrated wine regions. Its long autumn allows this wine to shine with long flavour development and intense grapefruit flavours supported by complex spice notes from 11 months of oak aging. 18.5/20 SILVER WING WINES
2014 Silver Wing Chardonnay RRP $28 This wine is made from hand-harvested grapes grown in North Canterbury, 60% of which were whole bunch fermented, with the wine then aged in 15% new Hungarian oak – relatively rare in New Zealand. The result is a full-bodied dry white with savoury aromas, big creamy flavours and a long finish. This drinks well now and has the high but balanced acidity to carry it for at least another five years. 18.5/20 Note: Both Silver Wing Chardonnays are, unusually, sealed with corks. SILVER WING WINES
2015 Whistling Buoy Kokolo RRP $36 Vineyard Chardonnay Big on taste and small on quantities, this Chardonnay is a rarity (not least because only 300 cases are made each year) but because it is a true single vineyard wine, made with the grapes grown solely on one vineyard. Its flavours are of rich and concentrated stone fruit, peach skin and caramel with lots of but-
34 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
tery bells and whistles. Its succulent flavours highlight juicy acidity and it has a lingering finish. It drinks well now and can be cellared for five to six years. 17.5/20 WHISTLING BUOY
(pineapples and melon) and rich caramel balanced by bright flavours of refreshing lemon. It is made by the Taylor family, whose descendants first planted grapes in Australia in 1892. 18.5/20 EUROVINTAGE
2015 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay RRP $41 It’s not often you find Chardonnay as good as this one, made from 30-year-old vines. The grapes are hand-picked and 70 per cent are fermented in old French oak. The long maturation time produces a complex, dry and richly flavoursome white – flavours span ripe lemon, grapefruit and apricot, to white honey, vanilla and oatmeal. This is super delicious, drinks well now and has outstanding potential to age for up to 10 years. 18.5/20
2016 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Chardonnay RRP $20
EUROVINTAGE
EUROVINTAGE
CENTRAL OTAGO
ITALY
2014 Domaine Rewa Central Otago RRP $37 Chardonnay
2015 Antinori Bramito del Cervo RRP $35 Chardonnay
The best things can come from the most unexpected places and this wine is a case in point. It is a relatively unknown Central Otago Chardonnay, made in small quantities, and from a region focused heavily on red wine production. But this wine proves that there are more strings to Central Otago’s wine bow, thanks to flavours of citrus, white peach, toasted nuts and a creamy soft finish. 17.5/20 DOMAINE REWA
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
This is Australian Chardonnay as we know and love it: big, rich ripe fruit flavours with full-bodied creaminess kicking in on the midpalate. From the Barossa’s Eden Valley, it is good drinking now and will continue to deliver rewarding flavours for the next two to three years. It’s a great wine as an accessibly priced glass pour white in bars and restaurants. 16.5/20
This new Italian wine is a crowd pleaser from Umbria, that land-locked region between Tuscany and the Marche. This wine sits outside Italy’s DOC wine regulations so is labelled as an IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica – a typical indication of the place). It is dry, full-bodied, creamy and soft with ripe nectarine and stone fruit flavours. It’s sealed with a screwcap, which means it is consistent in freshness as well as in taste. 17/20 NEGOCIANTS
2014 Taylors St Andrews Chardonnay
RRP $44.99 This Clare Valley Chardonnay is part of the new wave whites made across the Tasman, with warm climate flavours of tropical fruit
For distributor details see Distributor Index page 76
WINE NEWS
New tasting room for Misha’s Vineyard
Misha and Andy Wilkinson
CENTRAL OTAGO winery Misha’s Vineyard has opened a Tasting Room overlooking Lake Dunstan on the main approach to Cromwell, to accommodate the increased wine tourism to the area. Vineyard owners Andy and Misha Wilkinson have a 57-hectare estate on the edge of Lake Dunstan at Bendigo, just ten minutes from Cromwell, but felt a more centrally located tasting room would be easier for guests to access. With 20 export markets established and 10 vintages completed, they decided it was the right time to open a Tasting Room to showcase their wines. “We receive calls every day from people visiting from overseas who are familiar with our brand and want to visit” said Andy Wilkinson. “We are also seeing increased tourism, with Central Otago growing its reputation as a world-class wine and food destination. Cromwell was also recently named the fastest-growing small town in the country, so it’s really exciting to be part of that growth.” Designed with the wine tourist in mind, the concept for Misha’s Vineyard Tasting Room was to create a simple, elegant space that would enable guests to have a relaxed personal tasting experience. Three walls house large-scale photographic murals showcasing the work of renowned local photographer Tim Hawkins, who has been photographing Misha’s Vineyard since the groundbreaking ceremony in 2004. The facility also includes a private tasting room for members of the newly launched Misha’s Vineyard Vine Club. Misha’s Vineyard Tasting Room is open every day from 10am to 4pm, and offers platters and small plates alongside the tastings. “The opening of this new tasting room, signifies a new phase of growth for us,” says Misha Wilkinson. “From the outset, the strategy for Misha’s Vineyard has been to build a premium brand working primarily with top restaurants, five-star hotels and premium wine retailers around the world, as well as in New Zealand. We’ve won many fans along the way so now we have a place we can host them and thank them for their support, as well as the opportunity of winning some new fans.” Misha’s Vineyard Tasting Room, 180 State Highway 8B, Cromwell 9310 (Freeway Orchard complex) 36 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Sileni’s salute to history HAWKE’S BAY winery Sileni Estates is reflecting the region’s Art Deco history with a unique new limited edition release. The 2017 Art Deco Sparkling celebrates the city of Napier, (rebuilt in Art Deco style following the devastating earthquake of 1931) and the partnership between Sileni Estates and the Art Deco Trust. The unique package design has been developed by award-winning London design house, BD Creative, inspired by Napier’s Art Deco architecture. “Art Deco Sparkling is redolent of The Great Gatsby glamour, characterised by bold geometries and dramatic flourishes. It perfectly captures the opulence of the era,” says Sally Jackson, General Manager of the Art Deco Trust. Sileni Estate Art Deco Sparkling RRP $25. Sileni Estate
Crushing on Rosé INVIVO’S HUGELY successful collaboration with UK talkshow host Graham Norton continues with the release of Graham Norton’s Own ‘Pink by Design’ Rosé 2016. The blush pink wine is slightly sweet and very fruity, with aromas of raspberry, strawberry, lime zest and melon. Invivo winemaker Rob Cameron describes it as “… a very fruity wine for a sunny day – or the perfect way to make any day feel sunny.” The Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris blend uses grapes grown in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay. 12.5% ABV. RRP $18.99. Invivo Wines
WINE NEWS
Babydoll spreads its wings FOLLOWING THE success of the Yealands Babydoll Range in bars and restaurants across New Zealand and overseas, Yealands has launched it into the off-trade market. Babydoll, which had its first vintage in 2009, takes its name from the rare sheep that roam the Yealands vineyard year-round. These knee-high workers are miniature enough to be kept on site because they can’t reach the grapes, and they reduce the need to mow with tractors, reduce carbon emissions and produce lots of natural fertiliser. The Babydoll range includes a Sauvignon Blanc (Air NZ Wine Awards 2016 Trophy), Pinot Gris (NZ Aromatic Wine Competition 2016 Trophy), Chardonnay, Rosé and Pinot Noir. They are made with grapes grown in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay using low impact, sustainable winegrowing methods, and are crafted to capture varietal characters and distinctive complexity. Yealands Babydoll is available to off-trade now and will debut a new look with its 2017 vintage. From RRP $16.99. Yealands Wine Group
Young gun takes out Young Cellarhand title IT WAS a close race to the finish in the recent Competenz Central Otago Young Cellarhand of the Year, which saw competitors tested on everything from forklift driving, to wine tasting, and budgeting. Simon Gourley from the Central Otago Wine Company took the top spot after heading into the final challenge tied for first with Abby Gallagher from Mt Difficulty Wines. Jade McCormick from Amisfield placed third. Simon Gourley returned to Central Otago last year after time spent gaining valuable work experience in Australia’s Coonawarra wine region. More familiar with viticulture, having won the Bayer Central Otago Young Viticulturist Competition in 2013, Simon is relatively new to the winemaking side of things but has proved he is a great all-rounder with excellent knowledge of both the vineyard and winery operations, which he thinks gave him an edge in the competition. “One of the sections was on viticulture general knowledge and so it was an advantage having worked previously on vineyards,” he says. “Having that understanding of what goes on in the vineyard certainly helps when making the final wine.” The contestants were required to complete eight different sectors including forklift driving, assembling a pump, first aid, wine tasting, budgeting, fault finding, lab work and a quiz. Glenys Coughlan, General Manager for the Central Otago
Winner Simon Gourley with Glenys Coughlan of Central Otago Winegrowers’ Association and Kirk Spinks of Competenz.
Winegrowers’ Association, was thrilled with the inaugural event. “We wanted to create an opportunity for our young cellarhands to further develop and enhance their skills and based on feedback from the contestants we feel that this event has certainly achieved that.” The competition was sponsored by Competenz – a national training organisation that supports New Zealand’s engineering, manufacturing, forestry, printing, sign-making, journalism, and transport industries. The Competenz Central Otago Young Cellarhand of the Year receives a $1000 cash prize and all contestants will receive their first year free when they sign up for either the Level 3 or 4 New Zealand Certificate in Cellar Operations. DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 37
WINE NEWS
Winemaking change at Waipara Hills IT’S AN end of an era for Waipara Hills winemaker Simon McGeorge, as he hands over the reins to Andrew Brown, who was previously Assistant Winemaker at Framingham Wines in Marlborough. McGeorge has been winemaker at Waipara Hills since 2006, and now plans to embark on his own winemaking ventures. “I am grateful for the long list of fellow wine industry personnel who have helped me to fuel my passion for winemaking and develop my skills,” he says. “All these people have helped shape me into the winemaker that I am today.” Andrew Brown is renowned for his expertise with aromatics, particularly with Riesling, of which he enjoys the stylistic diversity. He has worked in Alsace, Oregon, Central Otago and Marlborough. Having been with Framingham since 2009, he is now looking forward to getting his hands amongst the soils and vines of Waipara Hills. “I’ve always been a fan of the Waipara Valley so am really thrilled to be taking up the role as Waipara Hills winemaker. I am looking forward to working with the fruit, championing the region and becoming part of the team.”
Newcomer for Ara NEW TO the Ara Single Estate range is a Chardonnay. Made with grapes grown across the Estate in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley, Ara Single Estate Chardonnay has fresh mealy notes and a citrus and grapefruit pith; a lovely palate, tight and focused with good energy. Giesen Wines
38 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Andrew Brown
Characterful new releases from Mahana Estate THE DISTINCTIVE characteristics of Mahana Estate’s sites has inspired a collection of eight new release wines from the organic Moutere-based winery. “I am a firm believer in terroir and I want people to be able to taste the distinctive characteristics of Mahana sites and the influence of the season on a particular vintage,” says winemaker Michael Glover. “In 2015 we decided on a fresh approach. We fermented blocks of pinot separately and without looking at notes from previous winemakers we clearly identified the top three vineyard sites. We have kept the grapes from individual sites separate so that we can express the character of the sites rather than blending it away.” The new releases are the Mahana Riesling 2016, Mahana Pinot Noir 2014, Pinot Noir Carbonique 2016; the ‘Clays and Gravels’ single vineyard Davey’s
Lease Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Woolly’s Corner & Cornelia’s Nine Pinot Noir 2014, and several wines as part of its ‘Poets & Writers’ series: the Feral Lahar Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (“…as close to heroin-fuelled Miles Davis as I think I will ever get,” says Glover), the Blood Moon Pinot Gris 2014 and the Dr Schaeffer Riesling 2015. The look of the main Mahana wine labels has also been refreshed with bright, bold colours. Great Little Vineyards
HIGH 5
Pinot, please
Pinot Noir makes up 70% of the red wine made in New Zealand, and this pick of the bunch shows why it’s the leading light, writes Joelle Thomson
01
Central star
RRP $65
2015 Folding Hill Orchard Block Pinot Noir Dunedinites Tim and Nikki Kerruish first began their love affair with Central Otago and Pinot Noir by spending weekends exploring the region and its wines, later cementing that love by buying land in Bendigo. This wine is the result – and it’s tasty too. Bendigo is one of the warmest, most sun-drenched corners of Central, which is why its climate is so ideally suited to full-bodied Pinot Noirs like this one. Folding Hill Orchard Block Pinot Noir is all about concentrated black cherry flavours supported by a spicy backbone of firm but soft tannins. History shows that this wine ages brilliantly and will taste even better in another decade. Do you have the willpower? FOLDING HILL
02
Down the road
RRP $38
2013 Domain Road Central Otago Pinot Noir Warm summers equal ripe grapes and tasty wines, such as this top drop from Domain Road in Central Otago. The brand is the brainchild of Graeme and Gillian Crosbie, who are not only fans of Pinot Noir but are at the forefront of one of this southern region’s best value examples – this is full-bodied, dry, rich in fruit flavour and long on taste. And at less than $40 it’s outstanding value, too. CO PILOT DISTRIBUTORS
03Peak of the Pinots
RRP $45
2014 Mount Edward Central Otago Pinot Noir Gibbston has one of the most spectacular drives, highest bungies and coolest climates in the deep south winemaking region of 40 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Central Otago, and is also home to the small scale but high quality wines of Mount Edward. Winemakers Duncan Forsyth and Anna Riederer produce a range of Pinot Noirs and this one is a blend of grapes from different vineyards in the region. It’s driven by savoury flavours with the firm drive and backbone of whole bunch fermentation, which contributes texture and weight. It is one of the tastiest reds in the region every year, and one of the most consistent. MINERAL WINES
04From the farm
RRP $45
2014 Chard Farm Mata-Au Pinot Noir Any visit to Central Otago has to include the dramatic drive to Chard Farm’s tasting room, which provides a hint of the precipice-like roads the early pioneers had to deal with. It’s a good analogy for the edgy climate of this region too, which preserves the freshness of Pinot Noir’s red fruit flavours that shine in this lovely medium-bodied wine. CHARD FARM
05French connection
RRP $45
2012 Domaine-Thomson Surveyor Thomson Pinot Noir To describe Domaine-Thomson as one of the more interesting wineries in Central Otago is something of an understatement. Its owners also possess a small slice (very small) of land in that most hallowed of Pinot Noir territories: Gevrey-Chambertin in the Côte-d’Or in Burgundy, France. Their land there is measured in less than a hectare and makes a miniscule amount of wine, but adds a traditional connection to this lively, full-bodied Central Otago red. This is one of Central’s consistently top drops and represents very good value for money. A lot of work has gone into this Pinot Noir, as is evident from the first sip to the last lingering drop. MAISON VAURON
Bendigo is one of the warmest, most sundrenched corners of Central, which is why its climate is so ideally suited to full-bodied Pinot Noirs.
For distributor details see Distributor Index page 76
IN VINO VERITAS
Joelle Thomson Journalist, wine writer and author mailme@joellethomson.com
People, place, and Pinot Noir New Zealand’s biggest ever wine event was held in Wellington this year and was devoted to Pinot Noir – and to a powerful sense of belonging.
COMBINING TWO simple words in Māori creates a concept with powerful meaning. ‘Tūranga’ (standing place) and ‘waewae’ (feet) come together to describe the place to which we feel most connected: our ‘turangawaewae’, literally, ‘our standing place’. This is the place we think of as home; the place to which we feel most anchored. Turangawaewae was used as the opening theme at this year’s biggest wine event, Pinot Noir NZ 2017. The conference was over three days in February in the capital and the theme carried over from the evocative Māori welcome through to every discussion, tasting and talk held at the big Pinot gig. The turangawaewae of Māori culture became New Zealand’s equivalent of the French ‘terroir’, which is used in global wine circles to describe the physical characteristics of a place in which grapes grow. Both words are tricky to pronounce, difficult to pin one exact meaning on, and hard for many to get their heads around. They both suggest a sense of belonging, but in Māori culture the word turangawaewae is used widely in everyday conversation and can refer to people and land, whereas ‘terroir’ refers purely to grapes and wine. The concept of turangawaewae proved so powerful during the conference in fact, that the very last speaker on day three – an Inuit from Alaska – burst into tears on stage; the contrast between the mainstream absorption of Māori culture here and her own culture’s relative lack of acknowledgement in the United States was upsetting for wine writer Elaine Chukan Brown. 42 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
On a more positive note, delegates at Pinot Noir NZ were particularly struck by the longevity of older wines at the event. “It’s pretty impressive how good these old Central Otago Pinot Noirs taste,” said Mat Donaldson of North Canterbury’s Pegasus Bay Winery; he was referring to a bottle of 2010 Brennan Pinot Noir from Gibbston Valley in Otago, but said it was “one of many that really surprised and wowed me.” Highlights were not confined to older wines, either, as these two good news items from Pinot Noir NZ show.
Wellington Wine Country Carol Bunn made a major life change last year when she moved from Central Otago to the Wairarapa to live in the same region as her winemaking partner, Larry McKenna, of Escarpment Vineyards. She is now the winemaker at Urlar Wines, where her first wine is ageing in oak barrels. It won’t be released until next year, but a sneak preview promises a step up for Urlar, already a winery that impresses me thanks to owner Angus Thomson’s focus on healthy, high quality grapes grown along certified organic guidelines. The 2016 Urlar Select Parcels Pinot Noir was made from grapes that went through painstaking hand pruning and Carol decided to pick them earlier than usual to keep alcohol down (to a modest 12.6% ABV) and to accentuate softer tannins.
Dog Point moves to screwcaps Some habits die hard, but cork is one that faded to obscurity remarkably swiftly in New Zealand, with only a few
The ‘turangawaewae’ of Māori culture became New Zealand’s equivalent of the French ‘terroir’. exceptions. One of those was Dog Point Vineyards, whose founders Ivan Sutherland and James Healy have now moved to screwcaps on all of their wines to be sold and consumed in New Zealand and Australia. Winemaker Murray Cook says some export markets remain committed to cork, which means that some Dog Point wines will retain cork closures. Dog Point Vineyards Section 94 (100% barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc), Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are among New Zealand’s top 10 wines, in my view, every year.
OFFICIAL WINE PARTNER 2017
SORRY,
TATIANA! RUSSIA’S GOT A NEW FAVOURITE EXPORT
RUSSIA’S #1 ALCOHOL-FREE BEER
Exclusive distributor in New Zealand:
Q-Liquid Ltd, 232A Neilson Street, Onehunga, Auckland. Tel: 09 6367730 WWW.QLL.CO.NZ
BEER & CIDER CATEGORY REPORT
Raise a glass Autumn is here with its often temperamental mixture of warm days and cool nights – lucky there are beers and ciders to suit every occasion.
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 45
BEER CATEGORY REPORT
M.A.D.
RAY OF LIGHT
Sunshine Czar Bomb
Sunshine Porter
9.6% ABV, 500ml RRP $12.99
6.5% ABV, RRP $7.49 500ml
Who knew a Gisborne brewery could delve so far into the dark arts? Pouring intense and black, Sunshine Brewery’s Czar Bomb (named after a particularly intense nuclear bomb) has a muddy, silage-y nose. The blast when it hits the palate is a boozy assault on your senses. Roasted fruit and coffee flavours dominate and the brew tastes like the darkest molasses-based fruitcake you’ve ever had. At a hefty 9.6% we’d recommend it’s enjoyed with a meal (something gamey like venison, perhaps), or shared with a friend.
After the intensity of Sunshine’s other dark offerings, the Porter is quite easydrinking by comparison. Still pouring dark and foreboding into the glass, this is a more mellow proposition on the palate. With a decent whack of leather in the aroma, the taste is rounded and malty – earthy, yet very drinkable. The perfect drink match for a meaty pie or other hearty winter fare.
SUNSHINE BREWERY
Sunshine Double Happy Imperial IPA
MUST BE MAGIC Sunshine Black Magic Stout 5% ABV, 500ml RRP $7.49
Double double, toil and trouble…. this beer will have you seeing double. Dark and treacly in the glass, Black Magic Stout tastes every bit as dark as its broody appearance suggests. The malty, Marmitey, chocolatey flavour has hints of sawdust and pencil shavings that will please dark beer aficionados. The ideal drop to savour round a drum fire after a winter surf. SUNSHINE BREWERY
46 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
SUNSHINE BREWERY
TWICE THE BANG FOR YOUR BUCK 8% ABV, 500ml RRP $8.99
Southern readers may not know it but Double Happy is the northern name for the (now-banned) firecracker known as a Poha. And the Gisborne brewery has put out a real firecracker of a brew here. The Double Happy Imperial IPA is related to its popular 4% Tom Thumb IPA – this being a doubled-up version of its little brother. The 8% Double Happy pours a beautiful amber with a sweet nose and has a spicy, grapefruit-tinged taste. Requires some caution due to its high alcohol content but is a refreshing brew. SUNSHINE BREWERY
Dark and treacly in the glass, Sunshine Brewery’s Black Magic Stout tastes every bit as dark as its broody appearance suggests.
LEMONY SNICKET Emerson’s Citrus Centric Citrus IPA 6.7% ABV, 500ml RRP $9.29
The clue is in the label – this has a citrus hit like no other. With a definite citrus nose, almost like a lemon perfume, the beer pours golden amber and orange. The onset is pure citrus, though it pulls out variations on the theme with lemon, orange and grapefruit all represented. Surprisingly balanced, the flavour avoids being acrid or cheek-puckering. The hops give it backbone and something to work off, which is both surprising and skillful. Emerson’s says it’s a way of bottling Dunedin’s short summer; but this would stand well on its own year-round. LION
ALL ABOARD Emerson’s Taieri George Spiced Ale 2017 Vintage 6.8% ABV, 500ml RRP $9.99
Named after brewer Richard Emerson’s train-enthusiast dad, Taieri George is a very drinkable spiced ale that will find many adherents. As soon as it hits the nose you know you’re onto something unique. The spices of nutmeg, cinna-
CATEGORY REPORT B EER
mon and honey permeate the brew but don’t dominate. Great for autumn, it’s a little bit sweet, a little bit malty, but not overpowering. LION
TASMAN BAY BEAUTY Hop Federation Pale Ale 5.1% ABV, (330ml 6 pack), RRP $22.99
While you might expect a Riwaka-based brewery called Hop Federation to be aggressive with the hops for which they are so rightly famous, in this case, restraint is the better part of valour. Pouring a light and golden amber, Hop Federation’s Pale Ale is subtle in comparison with the hop onslaughts so often encountered in the category. Fresh, clean and drinkable there’s just the barest hint of hops as backbone. Special mention also of the simple yet beautifully designed label. QUENCH COLLECTIVE
TAKING IT EASY Hop Federation Pilsner 5.5% ABV, (330ml 6-pack) RRP $22.99
This is a subtle, soft take on a classic Pilsner. The flavours have rounded edges and hints of fruit rather than being a sensory assault. The hops are very restrained on the palate, giving it a light finish with more flavour emerging as the beer warmed up. This would be a great session beer for a party or barbecue. QUENCH COLLECTIVE
A FALL SEASON CLASSIC Hop Federation Red IPA 6.4% ABV, 500ml RRP $10.99
Kicking it up a gear in both flavour profile and alcohol content, Hop Federation’s Red IPA is a perfect beer as autumn sets in. Pouring rich and red in the glass, the IPA has a toasty maltiness with ruby fruit notes and a decent sweetness followed by a lingering hop bitterness. Ideal matched with a cured meat and cheese selection, or barbecue-style beer snacks. To be enjoyed in moderation though, given the hefty 6.4% kick. QUENCH COLLECTIVE
BAD BOY BELGIAN Tuatara Belgian Tripel 8.5% ABV, 500ml RRP $9.99
Based on the Low Country style, this is a fine take on the ancient monastic brew. Out of the bottle, Tuatara Belgian Tripel pours fizzy and Lucozade-orange but the fizz quickly dissipates into a wellbalanced tasty concoction. With hints of citrus peel on the nose and faintly alcoholic fruit hop flavours this is dangerously easy to drink at 8.5%. Purists will love it, but it is accessible for novices also. DB BREWERIES
TO CELLAR OR NOT TO CELLAR? Tuatara Belgian Dubbel 7.5% ABV, 500ml RRP $9.99
Although delicious straight off the bat,
the team at Tuatara suggest storing this one for a while to bring out the fruit characteristics. At the moment, fresh, it pours a rich inviting brown and entices with a chocolatey, malty nose. The maltiness is balanced with a sweetness the brewers say is a house-made Belgian candy sugar. DB BREWERIES
THAI ONE ON Singha 5% ABV, (330ml 6-pack) RRP $15.99
Some Asian beers take their trademark lightness so far it becomes characterless, but Singha is different. Pouring pale and golden in the glass, it is a crisp and refined lager with a slight hop edge. One sip and you’re transported to the streets of Bangkok, chowing down on spicy somtum and Thai fried chicken. A great match with South East Asian-style dishes that pack a bit of heat. NEGOCIANTS
THE APPLE AND THE GRAPE Giesen Hard Apple Cider and Wine 6.5% ABV, (250ml 4-pack) RRP $12.99
Arriving in a dainty 250ml can, this will thrill lovers of non-sweet ciders. The wine flavour adds depth to the familiar hard cider and rounds the drink out in a way that will delight many. Rather than straight apple flavour, the wine balances against it to bring out pear and citrus notes too, making the whole very enjoyable. GIESEN WINES
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 47
BEER CATEGORY REPORT
RUSSIAN LIGHTNESS
CLEARLY CLASSIC
GLOBE-TROTTER
Baltika 0
Pilsner Urquell
8 Wired Lord of the Atlas
0% ABV, 500ml RRP $1.99
4.4% ABV, (330ml-12 pack) RRP $26.99
12% ABV, 500ml RRP $12.99
Baltika has used its classic lager skills and applied some 21st century technology to produce a zero-alcohol beer that stays true to the Baltika range. Light with a malty sweetness, Baltika 0 is a good option for punters who want to keep a clear head or to drive, but still enjoy a beer while they do so. Its golden colour and maltiness make it an excellent nonalcoholic option on a restaurant or bar drinks list.
How do you improve on a classic? Produced in Pilsen, in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell is now being cold-shipped to New Zealand. It’s the original lager that all other lagers are modelled after – golden with brilliant clarity and crispness. They’ve been producing it since 1842 so they know what they are doing. This is where you set the benchmark.
Barley wines are a type of dark ale and this version from 8 Wired has a lemony aroma with a taste that embraces the oak and intermingles it with fruit and burnt sugar sweetness. A good amount of bitterness rounds it out. The ale has a good story too – the “atlas” in the name refers to its cosmopolitan upbringing: New Zealand malt, Aussie hops, English yeast and French oak.
Q LIQUID
8 Wired Cucumber Hippy is a blast of cucumber in an elegant, light Weiss beer and calls to mind Pimms or other summer classics.
JAPAN IN ALL ITS GLORY Sapporo 5.2% ABV, 650ml can RRP $5.99
Seekers of a light, minimalist, year-round drop need look no further than Sapporo. With classic Japanese refinement and crispness, Sapporo is subtle with a warm and toasty body contained in its golden glow. A perfect accompaniment to Asian dishes, fish or salads – anything really that needs a fresh pairing. Available in 330ml bottle or 650ml can. EUROVINTAGE
48 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
TREASURY WINE ESTATES
EMPEROR OF THE DARK 8 Wired Bumaye Imperial Stout 16% ABV, 500ml RRP $18.99
If ever there was a Port equivalent in the beer world, this is it. The 8 Wired Bumaye Imperial Stout is an intense experience starting from the black pour and its foreboding purple-brown head. Aged in Pinot Noir barrels, the nose is a heady aroma of chocolate and wine and the flavour hit is much the same – it’s like drinking a rich Black Forest gateau, complete with liqueur on the side. This is made to be shared (as it is stronger than most wines) – preferably in front of a fire, whiling away an afternoon or evening. Try serving with a cheeseboard of blues and sharp Cheddar.
QUENCH COLLECTIVE
STRAIGHT OUT OF THE GARDEN 8 Wired Cucumber Hippy 4% ABV, 440ml RRP $6.99
Based on a Berliner Weiss beer, the Cucumber Hippy is a blast of cucumber in an elegant, light Weiss beer. Presented in a very cool-looking can, it is grassy on the nose and pale yellow/green in the glass. The taste is sour and refreshing with the cucumber dominating, and calling to mind Pimms or other summer classics. QUENCH COLLECTIVE
QUENCH COLLECTIVE
For distributor details see Distributor Index page 76
Using only the finest New Zealand ingredients, the Kaiser Brothers team handcraft draught and bottled beer from their Canterbury brewery – producing great tasting craft beer.
kaiserbrothers.co.nz Pilsener | ESB | APA | Weizen | Tangerine Dream | Fusion Cider Available in 50ltr keg and 500ml bottles. For more information please contact your Giesen Group representative or phone (03) 344 6270
MONASTIC FANTASTIC DUBBEL BEL DUB THE FUN.
TRIPEL PEL TRI THE TASTE. Judged Champion Brewery 2016. AVAILABLE FROM PURVEYORS OF THE FINEST CRAFT BEER. tuatarabrewing.co.nz
TuataraBrewing
TuataraBrew
TuataraBrew
BEER COLUMN
Kevin Sinnott Director of External Relations (NZ) Brewers Association Kevin.Sinnott@brewers.org.nz
‘Beering’ the brunt for too long A new campaign aims to set the record straight on beer – what’s in it and, just as importantly, what isn’t.
A COUPLE of weeks ago, my four-yearold turned to me with a deadpan look on his face and announced, “Daddy, you are getting older.” Sensing he was not about to be told off he grew in confidence, a wide smile spreading across his face. “Daddy, you’ll never be as young as me.” I contemplated sending him to timeout on principle, but decided against it. It would have been unfair given he was, unfortunately, 100 per cent correct. I am getting older. As we get older we face many dilemmas, not least of which is how to balance work, family, diet and exercise. We have less time and/or physical ability to exercise, but we are also more aware of what we are putting in our bodies. Last month at the Brewers Association we launched a campaign to help bust common myths around beer, called Beer – The Beautiful Truth. This campaign is talking to people just like me: New Zealanders who love beer but have grown up with the stereotype (a false one) that beer is fattening and bad for you. Why does beer get such a bad rap? Most beer is 99 per cent sugar-free, 100 per cent preservative-free and made from four natural ingredients (hops, water, barley and yeast) – yet it has been ingrained into so many of us that it’s going to have you reaching for the Triple XL elastic-waisted pants, such will be the size of your gut. We have to face facts, though. Through the 1990s and 2000s we have seen a sharp decline in the sales of beer in New Zealand. It wasn’t until 2012 when sales began steadying that the beer industry started to change, and now the market seems to have flattened out. We all hope this signals an industry turning point and that sales will continue to be strong across the country.
If the consumers are asking for it, and the beer industry is getting an undeserved bad rap, isn’t this the perfect opportunity for us to stand as an industry and smash these myths together? With beer sales steadying, we are at a crucial point as an industry to ensure we listen to what consumers want and to examine the key trends influencing their choices when it comes to having a drink. We all know consumers are becoming more health conscious – and it’s no surprise with the constant bombardment of messaging around cutting sugar and preservatives from our diet. But these trends don’t need to reflect negatively on us as an industry. The ‘healthy lifestyle’ is surrounded by the idea of moderation and it’s important we start informing people about what is really in our beer. We know consumers are already asking for more information, with people openly questioning why alcohol doesn’t include
NIPs (Nutrition Information Panels). The recent launch of Lewis Road Creamery’s chocolate liqueur brought up discussions around nutritional value of alcohol and alcohol labelling laws. The Brewers Association recently commissioned research from Colmar Brunton, which found that Kiwis are not aware that beer is low in sugar, and resulted in 75 per cent of respondents saying that nutritional content should be on alcohol products’ packaging. It was also interesting to see that women, a demographic of interest to the beer market, care more about nutritional labelling, with 83 per cent saying it was important to them, versus 68 per cent of men. I recently met Olympic rowing champion Eric Murray in a café in Cambridge and, as blokes do, we got talking about beer. We had the chat over a flat white and a burger, but Eric had an interesting view when it came to beer. This is a world champion who trains at an elite level to be sure, but he’s not allergic to having a quiet cleansing ale after training, in moderation and in a social setting. His view was that if the burger he ate at the café that day is loaded with tomato sauce, doesn’t he have the right to know how much sugar is in that sauce? In the same way, doesn’t he have the right to know how much sugar is in his beer? So, if the consumers are asking for it, and the beer industry is getting an undeserved bad rap, isn’t this the perfect opportunity for us to stand as an industry and smash these myths together? Beer – The Beautiful Truth is all about providing New Zealand consumers with factual information on beer and changing the misconceptions that we are negatively associated with. Let’s set Kiwis straight and all enjoy that cold beer after a long day! DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 51
BEER & CIDER NEWS
Kiwis go gold at International Beer and Cider Awards GALBRAITH'S AND Zeffer are toasting wins at the 2017 International Brewing and Cider Awards in England. Brewer Keith Galbraith is celebrating what he calls the “peak” of his 40-year-career after Galbraith’s became the only brewery in the world to win two Gold Medals at the Awards. Galbraith’s was awarded a Gold Medal in the ‘Lager Class’, for the Galbraith’s Bohemian Pilsner, and a Gold Medal in the ‘Strong Dark Beer Class’, for its Galbraith’s Rurik Stout. It was also the only New Zealand brewery to be awarded a Gold Medal at this year’s brewing competition. The International Brewing Awards, often referred to as ‘The Oscars of the Brewing Industry’ is believed to be the oldest brewing competition in the world, with origins that date back to 1888. The 2017 competition was held in Burton-on-Trent in the United Kingdom in early March. Forty-five judges (all experienced, working professional brewers) assessed more than 1100
beers and ciders from 21 countries, across nine beer categories and in 34 classes. Only one Gold, Silver and Bronze medal are awarded in each class. Keith Galbraith says the win was huge for him and the brewery, and for New Zealand craft beer in general. “To be acknowledged by a group of your peers that your ale and lager is of world standard is the peak of my 40-year-career. At Galbraith’s, we make beers for ourselves first and foremost, and ask customers to share our vision. We do not produce beer to “fit” into the categories that many beer competitions impose on
Wanaka bartender takes Heineken title
52 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
entries. We find this limiting, as most beers begin to taste the same given the tight parameters. The beers that performed so well in this competition have been thrown out of other comps, in spite of their quality, because they didn’t conform. We embrace non-conformity, as it lets us express ourselves in the best possible way.” The biennial International Cider Awards are also held alongside the International Brewing Awards and Zeffer scooped Gold for its Cidre Demi-Sec. The traditional French medium sweet cider won the Gold in the ‘Cider Apple Class – Sweet’ category. Judge, Gabe Cook (aka The Ciderologist), praised Zeffer’s win as “testament to their skills as cider makers and to the standard of New Zealand’s burgeoning craft cider industry as a whole.” Jody Scott, Zeffer’s head cider maker says they are thrilled with the win. “Our traditional French style Cidre Demi-Sec uses wild fermentation and heritage fruit. This is a cider we make once a year with select cider apple varieties and we were really happy with the way it turned out. Not only is it great to have our Cidre DemiSec recognised again, but to be awarded at an event with such a strong heritage and long international standing, makes it that much sweeter.”
AFTER A nationwide search, Ricky Barbara from Trout Bar in Wanaka (pictured left) was awarded New Zealand’s title of top Heineken Bartender at the Heineken Star Serve Bartender Finals in Auckland in March. He will travel to Amsterdam in September to represent New Zealand at the Heineken Star Serve Global Finals. Barbara was one of six semifinalists in the competition, which challenged them to pour the perfect glass of Heineken draught beer. Heineken Marketing Manager and competition judge, Taylor Green, said he was extremely impressed with the calibre of skill in the competition. “Many people don’t realise what goes into pouring the ‘perfect serve’ and how it can impact both the taste and presentation of the beer. Heineken’s international Star
Serve ritual ensures that bartenders from around the globe deliver a premium Heineken draught beer every time, no matter where in the world you may be.” Heineken’s global draught master, Franck Evers, was flown from Amsterdam to help judge the finalists on the five-step perfect serve: rinse, pour, skim, check and serve. He says a perfect ‘Star Serve’ is crucial. “The quality of the first beer will determine whether you order a second so the pour and presentation needs to be spot on.” The five other semi-finalists were: Georgia Rea from The Saucy Chef, Invercargill; Briar Langridge from Crowded House Bar & Eatery, New Plymouth; Julian Moreno from Cook Strait Bar, Wellington; Matthew Fillipini from Easy Tiger, Hamilton, and Martin Crawford from Victoria Street Bistro, Hamilton.
BEER & CIDER NEWS
Speight’s scales new peaks of citrus
Giesen mixes it up WINEMAKER GIESEN has branched out with a new release that combines hard apple cider with white wine. The cider is made separately and then combined with the wine to create the 6.5% ABV spritzer-style blend, which is made with 100 per cent New Zealand fruit. Its sweetness is offset by crisp acidity, with flavours of pear, fresh apple and a hint of lemon. giesen.co.nz
BUILDING ON its Summit Lager, the latest offering from Speight’s adds lime, mandarin and lemon to the brew, resulting in a crisp golden 4% ABV lager with a citrus twist. Ben Wheeler, Category Marketing and Sponsorship Director at Lion says, “Our brewers have taken a great quality, easy drinking lager and given it a citrus boost. Being low in bitterness and hoppiness, Summit Citrus is perfect for those times when you’re looking for something a little extra from your beer.” Speight’s Summit Citrus joins the classic Summit Lager and the newly launched Speight’s Summit Lime Lager and Speight’s Summit Apple Lager. Available in six packs, RRP$11.99. lionco.com
ing Limited
© 2016 Bach Brew
DRINKSBIZ WITH SUNSHINE BREWERY
A new dawn for Sunshine
One of the country’s first craft breweries, Gisborne’s Sunshine Brewery is making a comeback with new beers and a fresh attitude (but still with a surfboard under one arm). Brewer Chris Scott
WHEN NEW Zealand’s craft beer industry hit its straps in the early 2000s, it felt like a revelation for beer lovers. But those in the know had been drinking one of the country’s original craft brews, from a small Gisborne brewery, since 1989. Sunshine Brewery was dreamed up in the late 80s (so the story goes) by a couple of mates in Gisborne, sitting out the back on their surfboards waiting for the next set to come in while talking about what they’d do when they grew up. Both in their 30s, they decided making beer was an excellent idea, and Sunshine Brewery was born. Nearly 30 years later the brewery is still going strong (making it New Zealand’s oldest continuously operating craft brewery) and, thanks to a revitalized line-up of beers, is making waves in craft beer again. The brewery’s best known offering had always been Gisborne Gold, an unashamedly easy-drinking sessionable 4% ABV lager that is now part of the Heritage lineup, which also includes Gisborne Red Ale and Gisborne Pilsner. While the Gold is still incredibly popular (with an almost cult fol-
54 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
lowing) Sunshine Brewery’s Martin Jakicevich says there’s a new focus on their more experimental Sunrise Project range, thanks to fresh ideas from brewer Chris Scott. “The one that is really firing now and taking us forward is Pipeline Pilsner,” says Jakicevich. “That’s the one that’s grown remarkably fast over the last four to five months and is getting really good pouring opportunities in craft bars and restaurants around New Zealand.” Chris Scott says Pipeline came about after a few experiments and describes the
“The one that is really firing now and taking us forward is Pipeline Pilsner.” final brew using Sauvin and Riwaka hops as: “…a hop-fuelled New Zealand Pilsner, dry on the finish with plenty of New Zealand citrus hop character.” Other popular brews in the range include the Electron IPA and Waikanae IPA. A fan of brewing IPAs, Russian Imperial Stouts and Flanders Reds, Chris Scott is particularly proud of the Sunshine Grand Cru released in 2016. The sour beer is barrel fermented and aged and has flavours of oak, dark fruit and “a puckering finish”. It received high praise from beer aficionados at last year’s Beervana event. Beer guru Michael Donaldson wrote: “This year was touted (tarted?) as the year of the sour beer and one of the best was Sunshine Brewing’s Flanders Red, a delightful surprise from an unexpected quarter.”
While the Grand Cru was made only in small quantities, Martin Jakicevich says the brewery has a barrel ageing programme underway and more examples of the style will come out under the Brewer’s Release, where a new brew is released monthly in limited quantities and in keg only. “We are getting good reaction to the sour beers,” agrees Scott. “We’ve got around 20 barrels on the go at the moment and the majority are Flanders Red, which is certainly a style that I love, and they’re definitely picking up traction locally, which is great.” Experimentation is central to Sunshine Brewery’s approach now, as is obvious on ‘New Release Thursday’, where a new brew from the 70 litre pilot kit is released each week at The Taproom, the brewery’s onsite tasting room. “I enjoy the chance to be creative and to do things a bit differently from our mainstream beers,” says Scott. “We’ve done collaborations with local businesses, like the Mexican food truck and coffee roastery and we’ve sold a keg of the beer overnight, which is generally a pretty good reaction for a small town like Gizzy!” While Gisborne’s surf culture is still central to the brewery’s attitude (Chris Scott has been known to postpone a meeting due to an off-shore wind), Martin Jakicevich says Scott’s in-depth technical understanding of brewing coupled with his adventurous approach has breathed fresh life into Sunshine Brewery and its beers, while building on what has gone before. “We’re one of the few breweries now that has a real investment in bricks and mortar,” he says, “and definitely one of the few that has an investment in history. It’s basically the new dawning of Sunshine.” sunshinebrewery.co.nz Distributed by Vintners NZ
BEER & CIDER NEWS
Quench to add Hop Federation NELSON BREWERY Hop Federation is the latest addition to Quench Collective’s growing craft beer portfolio. Based in rural Riwaka, the heart of Tasman’s hop-growing district, Hop Federation has a regular range of nine beers, plus seasonal one-offs. Quench Collective began distribution of Hop Federation in early April and says part of the plan includes strengthening the brand’s North Island distribution. Quench also distributes Funk Estate, 8-Wired and Liberty Brewing, alongside cider and wine brands. quenchcollective.co.nz
Nelson named top global spot for cider NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC has named Nelson one of its ‘Top 10 Booze Cities’, citing it as the place for the Perfect Cider. The list, which appears on nationalgeographic.com, also includes classics such as Dublin for Irish whiskey, Munich for a traditional Bavarian beer, and Tokyo for underground sake. It acknowledges Nelson as having a heavy concentration of cideries and describes it as “heaven for cider seekers”. See the full list at nationalgeographic. com/ travel/top-10/best-drink-cities/
WE’rE NOT THE FIrST TO DO A SIX PACK. BUT WE’rE THE FIrST TO PUT EMErSON’S IN IT.
BEER & CIDER NEWS
Mead from Mac’s MAC’S HAS taken a page from the history books with its latest release, Love Buzz, a honey mead that will be available until August. Made by fermenting honey with water, mead is one of the oldest alcoholic drinks known to man. Mac’s version is made with kamahi, clover and Manuka honey, is gluten-free and clocks in at 5.5% ABV. Despite the use of
honey, brewer and Lion Beer Ambassador Kurt Gross says Love Buzz is not overly sweet. “Mead can vary from sweet, semi-sweet, to dry. Love Buzz has a slight sweetness upfront with a classic dry finish.” Mac’s Love Buzz will be available until early August in 4-packs at RRP $14.99, and on tap in Mac’s Brew Bars. lionco.com
Asahi Super Dry goes big for 30
Can do at Peckham’s
ASAHI SUPER Dry has launched 500ml cans to the New Zealand market in celebration of the Japanese beer’s 30th anniversary in March. The beer was first brewed in 1987 following a survey of 5000 beer drinkers in Tokyo and Osaka, which revealed that most Japanese beer drinkers wanted a light and refreshing beer that would go well with food. Asahi Super Dry has since become Japan’s #1 beer and the 500ml can was one of its original formats in that country. Available now. independentliquor.co.nz
PECKHAM’S CIDER has launched its classic range of award-winning ciders in cans. The 330ml cans will be available off-premise in both 6-packs and singles, and on-premise in singles. Caroline Peckham says the cans also feature an ingredients list to show Peckham’s ciders are made with only real juice, and no concentrates, colourings or flavourings. The can carriers are also made with recycled material and are wildlifefriendly. The range in can includes Moutere Apple, Alex’s Apple, Cider with Blackcurrant,
Cider with Boysenberry, Cider with Elderflower and Cider with Feijoa. Peckham’s Cider available in can 6-pack RRP $21.99 and single can RRP $3.99. peckhams.co.nz
Proudly distributed by
BOURBON & WHISKEY CATEGORY REPORT
THE AMBER GLOW
From Kentucky’s famed bourbons to our own New Zealand whisky – we round up what’s on the market
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 59
BOURBON & WHISKEY CATEGORY REPORT
Wild Turkey Kentucky Straight
Bulleit Bourbon
43.4% ABV, 1L RRP $52.99
45% ABV, 700ml RRP$59.99
Wild Turkey is home to father and son master distiller duo, Jimmie and Eddie Russell, both of whom are members of the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame. The Kentucky Straight was originally crafted by Eddie Russell as “Wild Turkey 81”. This deeply golden bourbon is aged for five to eight years in American White Oak barrels that have the deepest, No. 4 “alligator” char. With notes of sweet vanilla, pear, and hints of spice, this bourbon finishes with a full, rich flavour.
A blend of rye, corn, and barley malt, Bulleit has a bold, spicy character thanks to the high rye content. It has aromas of sweet oak and spice and a smooth mid-palate with notes of maple, oak, and nutmeg. The finish is long, dry, and satiny with a light toffee flavour.
LION
Wild Turkey American Honey 35.5% ABV, 700ml RRP $41.99
A smooth liqueur blended with pure honey and Wild Turkey Bourbon Whiskey. It has aromas of orange and caramel with a rich flavour of sweet honey, orange and caramel. Serve it straight, chilled from the freezer, or on the rocks. LION
Wild Turkey Rye
LION
Buffalo Trace Bourbon 40% ABV, 700ml RRP $70
This bourbon comes with a fine pedigree: it’s made at the oldest continuously operating distillery in the US, and the mostawarded. Its most recent accolades were at the 2016 San Francisco International Spirit Awards, where it received Double Gold and the award for Best Straight Bourbon. Buffalo Trace Bourbon is deep amber, with a complex aroma of vanilla, mint and molasses. Flavours of brown sugar and spice give way to oak, toffee, dark fruit and anise. The finish is long, smooth and deep. TICKETY-BOO
40.5% ABV, 700ml RRP $49.99
An ode to America’s first distilled spirit: rye whiskey. A deep “alligator” char is used in this whiskey, which has bold rye flavour balanced with big vanilla, butterscotch and spice notes. Ideal for mixing or use in cocktails. LION
60 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
A play on the ‘angel’s share’ of evaporated spirit from barrels, Jim Beam’s Devil’s Cut refers to the liquid that becomes trapped in the barrel wood after the bourbon has been removed.
the only Bourbon Whiskey to win Double Gold at the San Francisco International Spirit Awards five times. TICKETY-BOO
Tincup 42% ABV, 750ml RRP $64.99
Tincup whiskey is a blend of two American whiskeys, each aged in #3 charred oak barrels for a minimum of four years. “High rye” bourbon, distilled and aged in Indiana, is blended with a small amount of Colorado single malt whiskey. These whiskeys are then cut with Rocky Mountain water. Tincup is named for the Colorado mining pioneers and the tin cups from which they drank their whiskey. EUROVINTAGE
Eagle Rare 10 Year Old Bourbon 45% ABV, 700ml RRP $90
The nose on this aged bourbon is complex, with aromas of toffee, hints of orange peel, herbs, honey, leather and oak. The taste is bold, dry and delicate with notes of candied almonds and very rich cocoa, while the finish is dry and lingering. Eagle Rare 10 Year Old Bourbon is
Russell’s Reserve 10 Year Old Bourbon 45% ABV, 750ml RRP $75
Master distillers and premier whiskey makers, Jimmy and Eddie Russell (of Wild Turkey fame), have brought their nearly 100 years of combined experience to this bourbon. Bottled at 90 proof (45% ABV), this hand-selected small batch bourbon
CATEGORY REPORT B OURBON & WHISKEY
has a rich caramel and vanilla taste and a smooth finish. EUROVINTAGE
Woodstock Bourbon 37% ABV, 1L RRP $36.99
This Kentucky bourbon is a smooth and approachable whiskey. Ideal for mixing in the classic bourbon and cola, or straight as a good value pour in bars and restaurants. INDEPENDENT LIQUOR
Batch 10
Maker’s Mark
36% ABV, 700ml RRP $60-65
40% ABV, 700ml RRP $49.99
This is where Kentucky bourbon meets New Zealand honey. Creators Brent Robinson and Gordon McKerchar import premium bourbon in barrels from the US, then combine it with organic honey from Puhoi. Batch 10 has a rich honey aroma with a floral hint, and flavours of honey and caramel overlaying the spice and wood of the bourbon.
Copper stills and an heirloom yeast strain, which has been used by the founding Samuels family for 150 years, gives Maker’s Mark its unique taste. There’s vanilla and soft caramel on the nose with this bright gold bourbon, which mellows into smooth flavours of caramel, spice and fresh oak with a hint of smoke. Handdipping in red wax seals each bottle.
BATCH 10
BEAM SUNTORY
What is bourbon, exactly? Bourbon is a type of American whiskey that is made primarily from corn. While it can be made anywhere in America, it is most strongly associated with Kentucky, where the vast majority is made. The rules vary around bourbon’s definition depending on where in the world you are, but for bourbon made for consumption in the US, the spirit must be: • made in America • use at least 51% corn in its mash • aged in charred new oak barrels (i.e. a barrel can only be used once for ageing bourbon) and for a minimum two years to qualify as a ‘straight bourbon’ • cannot go into barrel at more than 125 proof (63% ABV) and cannot be bottled at less than 80 proof (40% ABV). The char on a barrel is commonly divided into four levels, with #4 the highest and often referred to as “alligator char” as it resembles its deeply fissured, scaly skin.
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 61
BOURBON & WHISKEY CATEGORY REPORT
Jim Beam White
Jim Beam Devil’s Cut
Jim Beam Black
37% ABV, 700ml RRP $37.99
45% ABV, 700ml RRP $39.99
43% ABV, 1L RRP $54.99
Jim Beam is the world’s number one selling bourbon, with a distilling history in Kentucky that goes back more than 200 years. This white label version has aromas of oak, slight vanilla and cinnamon, while the flavour is of caramel and spicy fruit with a subtle hint of coffee and chocolate. Full flavoured with a smooth finish. It’s a staple in bars around the world, and is ideal served on the rocks or with mixers.
A play on the ‘angel’s share’ of evaporated spirit from barrels, the Devil’s Cut refers to the liquid that becomes trapped in the barrel wood after the bourbon has been removed. Jim Beam extracts the rich bourbon from the wood and blends it with extra-aged bourbon. On the nose this deep russet bourbon is rich with spice, vanilla and warm caramel. It has a full-bodied flavour with strong spice and wood, balanced with vanilla and caramel undertones. Best enjoyed neat, on the rocks, as a shot or mixed with cola.
This extra-aged version of Jim Beam is a more flavourful style of bourbon with a rich texture and smooth flavour. Aromas of vanilla, oak and spices give way to flavours of vanilla and cinnamon, with tropical fruits. It has a long finish, with charcoal flavours coming through on the final note.
BEAM SUNTORY
BEAM SUNTORY
What makes Kentucky so great for bourbon? Kentucky water is filtered naturally through limestone springs, which adds minerals and filters out impurities, which can affect flavour. Kentucky is also part of the Corn Belt of America’s Midwest, with its soil regarded as ideal for grain crops.
62 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
BEAM SUNTORY
Jim Beam Double Oak 43% ABV, 700ml RRP $49.99
A twice-barrelled version of Jim Beam, where the whiskey is poured into a sec-
CATEGORY REPORT B OURBON & WHISKEY
ond freshly charred barrel to mature for a second time. This added interaction with the barrel gives hints of toasted wood on the nose, along with caramel and vanilla, while in the mouth there is a distinctive spiced oakiness alongside intense caramel and toffee flavours.
Old Forester has an historic footing in the bourbon world – it was created in 1870 and is the only remaining bourbon continuously distilled and marketed by the founding family before, during and after Prohibition.
BEAM SUNTORY
Woodford Reserve Distillers Select 43.2% ABV, 700ml RRP $64.99
Old Forester 43% ABV, 1L RRP $54.99
Old Forester has an historic footing in the bourbon world – it was created in 1870 and is the only remaining bourbon continuously distilled and marketed by the founding family before, during and after Prohibition. It has a sharp, sweet aroma with a strong floral character alongside hints of mint, rich tobacco leaf and vanilla. Sharp at first, the flavour softens quickly with hints of oak, sweet corn and rye grain character. Spicy with soft vanilla and light orange notes. The finish is long, warm and slightly drying with a nice level of sweetness. Serve it neat, on the rocks, or in a classic cocktail. HANCOCKS
Early Times Kentucky Whiskey 37.1% ABV, 1L RRP $38.99
First made in 1860, Early Times takes its name from the old-fashioned methods of making whiskey. This Kentucky-made spirit has a light, fragrant aroma, a fresh and fruity flavour with honey and vanilla, and the slightest bit of spicy dill. The finish is warm and smooth. HANCOCKS
The Woodford Reserve Distillery is one of Kentucky’s smallest and oldest, and has one of the few heat-cycled barrelhouses in the world, which ensures the charred and toasted white oak barrels create Woodford Reserve’s brilliant amber colour and signature flavour. Heavy with rich dried fruit, the aroma also has hints of mint, orange and cocoa with faint vanilla and tobacco spice. In the mouth it is rich, chewy and smooth, with complex citrus and cocoa, toffee, and spice. The finish is creamy, smooth and long. HANCOCKS
Woodford Reserve Double Oak 45.2% ABV, 700ml RRP $74.99
This twice-barrelled bourbon is matured in separate charred oak barrels, with the second barrel deeply toasted before a light charring to extract additional soft, sweet oak character. A deep amber colour, the Woodford Reserve Double Oak has rich aromas of dark fruit, caramel, sharp honey, chocolate, marzipan and toasted oak. Its taste is a full-bodied mix of vanilla, dark caramel, hazelnut, apple, fruit and spices.
The finish is long and creamy with lingering hints of honeyed apple. HANCOCKS
Jack Daniel’s 40% ABV, 1L RRP $54.99
This Tennessee whiskey is left to drip through 10 feet of sugar maple charcoal before it goes into barrel. It has aromas of oak, sweet vanilla and caramel, which continue through the flavour to create a balanced taste. Ideal for serving straight or mixing in cocktails. HANCOCKS
Thomson Manuka Smoke Progress Report Single Malt Whisky 46% ABV, 700ml RRP $98
This New Zealand whisky is made from 100 per cent New Zealand-grown and malted barley that is smoked using native Manuka wood. Distilled through Thomson’s hand-beaten copper pot still, this is their Manuka Smoke release in its youth, although it has already won Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2016. A ‘work in progress’ bottling, it offers natural smoke, cinnamon, clove and Manuka oils. THOMSON WHISKY
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 63
BOURBON & WHISKEY CATEGORY REPORT
Bushmills Original
Jameson Irish Whiskey
Jameson Black Barrel
40% ABV, 1L RRP$49.99
40% ABV, 700ml RRP $39.99 and 1L RRP $54.99
40% ABV, 700ml RRP $84.99
Bushmills holds the title of the world’s oldest distillery, having been granted its licence to distil in 1608. Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey is a blend of triple distilled malt whiskey with a lighter grain whiskey. It has light, fruity aromas with a touch of spice and vanilla. The taste is gently warming with slight honey sweetness, while the finish is crisp and fresh with a hint of spice. Serve this easy-drinking whiskey neat, over ice or with a mixer. LION
This triple-distilled whiskey is the number one selling Irish whiskey in New Zealand and around the world. It is a blend of pot still and fine grain whiskeys that are triple-distilled and aged in bourbon and sherry casks for five to seven years. Jameson has a light floral fragrance, peppered with spicy wood and sweet notes, while the flavour is a smooth balance of spicy, nutty and vanilla notes with hints of sweet sherry. PERNOD RICARD
Bushmills 10 YO 40% ABV, 700ml RRP $74.99
Jameson Caskmates
This aged whiskey is triple distilled from 100 per cent malted barley and spends at least 10 years in bourbon seasoned barrels, which gives it aromas of honey, vanilla and milk chocolate that persist through the flavour. Serve it neat or over ice.
40% ABV, 700ml RRP $55.99
LION
Bushmills Black Bush 40% ABV, 700ml RRP $61.99
The dark colour of this whiskey derives from up to seven years maturation in Spanish oloroso sherry casks and sweet bourbon barrels. On the nose it is initially rich and full with a hint of spicy fruit. It has dark‚ velvety fruit flavours with a lingering sherry sweetness. LION
64 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Jameson Caskmates is a whiskey that has been finished in in stout-seasoned whiskey casks, and was the result of a conversation between Jameson’s master distiller and the head brewer of Cork’s Franciscan Well Brewery. It retains the qualities of Jameson Original, with additional notes of coffee, cocoa, butterscotch and a gentle hint of hops. Best served alongside a light stout, IPA or lager. PERNOD RICARD
Jameson Black Barrel is made from single Irish pot still whiskey and rare small batch grain whiskey, matured in American oak, sherry casks, and double charred bourbon barrels. This lends the whiskey intensified notes of vanilla and caramel, toasted wood, fruit and warm spice. PERNOD RICARD
Jameson Whiskey Makers Series – The Distiller’s Safe 43% ABV, 700ml RRP $119.99
This series celebrates the craft of Jameson’s Head Distiller, Head Blender and Head Cooper, with each one creating their own whiskey. Distiller’s Safe showcases the mastery that Jameson Head Distiller, Brian Nation, has of the Irish Pot Still and was created to capture the qualities of the distillates before they reach the barrel. The ‘safe’ refers to the spirit safe, an instrument that allows him to sample what’s going on inside the still. The Distiller’s Safe has the smooth mouth feel of a pot still whiskey combined with soft buttery sweetness and gentle notes of apricot, cinnamon and melon. PERNOD RICARD
Connemara 40% ABV, 700ml RRP $64.99
Bushmills holds the title of the world’s oldest distillery, having been granted its licence to distil in 1608.
An Irish whiskey inspired by Ireland’s ancient distilling traditions. Connemara’s aroma is light and fruity, with distinct smoke and peat, while its taste is initially smooth and honey sweet, with malt and
CATEGORY REPORT B OURBON & WHISKEY
Jefferson’s is an approachable whisky for those getting into the premium area, but is still big enough for the connoisseur.
fruits giving way to an intensifying fullbodied peat. It is complex yet balanced with vanilla oak tones. BEAM SUNTORY
Tullamore D.E.W Irish Whiskey 40% ABV, 1L RRP $54.99
This blended Irish whiskey is triple distilled and aged in a combination of ex-bourbon and sherry casks. It has aromas of light, sweet citrus and green apple combined with vanilla undertones. Early fresh fruit flavours lead to toasted wood and onto vanilla sweetness, with a
buttery mellowness on the finish. (Trivia note: The D.E.W in the name refers to Daniel E. Williams, who started as a stable boy at Tullamore Distillery and worked his way up to become the owner, creating the whiskey that still bears his name today.) Also available in Tullamore D.E.W 12 Year Old Special Reserve.
kies of different ages – one of which comprises at least 55 per cent of the total. Its makers say this creates an approachable whisky for those getting into the premium area, but is still big enough for the connoisseur. Also available in Jefferson’s Reserve Bourbon and Jefferson’s Ocean Aged Bourbon.
FEDERAL MERCHANTS
FEDERAL MERCHANTS
Jefferson’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky 41.15% ABV, 700ml RRP $99.99
This bourbon whisky is a blend of four different Kentucky straight bourbon whis-
Irish whiskey
• Irish whiskey is sold in 135 markets around the world
THE WORD ‘whiskey’ derives from the Anglicisation of the first word in the Gaelic phrase, uisce betha, meaning ‘water of life’. It was a translation of the Latin, ‘aqua vitae’ which was commonly used to describe distilled spirits during the Middle Ages. Irish whiskey today is experiencing a resurgence of popularity.
• In 2013, there were four distilleries in operation and five visitor centres on the island. Now there are 16 working distilleries, another 13 with planning permission and more projects at various stages of planning. • In the last decade alone the sale of Irish whiskey grew by over 300%
For distributor details see Distributor Index page 76
• By 2020, exports of Irish whiskey are expected to double to 12 million nine litre* cases annually (from just over 6 million cases in 2014). • Irish whiskey visitor centres attracted more than 650,000 visitors in 2015, with plans to treble this to 1.9 million visitors by 2025 Source: Irish Whiskey Tourism Strategy (2016) – The Irish Whiskey Association *9 litre cases = 12 75cl whiskey bottles
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 65
GINGER ALE ROUND-UP
On the dry side
We taste the (surprisingly wide) range of ginger ales on the market – ideal for the classic whiskey and dry.
Schweppes Dry Ginger Ale RRP $9.99, 330ml 4-pack
It’s an enduring classic for good reason – Schweppes Dry Ginger Ale has a solid ginger flavour with just a hint of sweetness. A great value ginger ale, it delivers excellent quality for the price. COCA COLA AMATIL
Gingerella RRP $4.50, 300ml
This ginger ale has slight sweetness and a mild ginger heat that lingers. Karma Cola is known for its Fair Trade philosophy and this ginger ale is made using Fairtrade organic ginger grown by farmers in Sri Lanka’s Forest Garden Growers Association, Fairtrade organic vanilla from Sri Lanka, sugar from India and lemon. It also gets points for its awesome label design that adds instant kudos to any bar fridge. KARMA COLA
East Imperial Thai Dry Ginger Ale RRP $9.99, 150ml 4-pack
There’s an intense almost incense-like quality to the aroma of this ginger ale. Made with ginger root sourced from Thailand, it has low cane sugar content for a light, dry style that lets the spice shine. HANCOCKS
Phoenix Organic Ginger Ale RRP $7.99, 250ml 4-pack
With an intense ginger aroma, this is a ginger ale that doesn’t muck about. There’s an instant flavour hit from the Fijian ginger root that leaves a lingering 66 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
spicy heat in your throat, while just a hint of refreshing citrus appears too. BETTER DRINKS
Bootleggers Dry Ginger Ale RRP $5-6, 330ml bottle (on-premise)
A fresh take on a classic – this version from Wellington company Bootleggers uses ginger, fresh Hawke’s Bay limes, cinnamon and caramelised sugars. The ginger is mild at first but the heat stays around and sits well alongside the spice of the cinnamon, while the lime lightens things with a fresh citrus note.
Soda Press Ginger Ale RRP $14.95, 500ml syrup
This ginger ale is clean, crisp and refreshing with subtle citrus and a ginger flavour that starts quietly and then creates a gentle heat that lingers nicely. Each 500ml syrup bottle makes 18 standard drinks. It’s made with organic and natural ingredients and boasts 40 per cent less sugar than the leading syrup brand. FEDERAL MERCHANTS & CO
BOOTLEGGERS
Fever-Tree Ginger Ale RRP $9.99, 200ml 4-pack
A light citrus aroma and a distinctive ginger flavour are the hallmarks of this ginger ale from UK mixer company FeverTree. It uses a blend of three ginger oils from Ivory Coast, Nigeria and India. EUROVINTAGE
Six Barrel Soda Ginger Ale RRP $16.50, 500ml syrup, and RRP $4.50, 275ml bottle
There’s a really rich, rounded ginger aroma to this ginger ale, which continues in the flavour. It’s made with fresh Fijian ginger root with a little black pepper thrown in for a touch of extra heat. Organic cane sugar adds a sweet lift, but not too much. Available in 500ml syrup (each bottle makes 15 standard drinks) or in a 275ml bottle serve. SIX BARREL SODA
For distributor details see Distributor Index page 76
Ginger Ale vs Ginger Beer The main difference between ginger ale and ginger beer is that the latter is brewed (although not usually alcoholic), whereas ginger ale is simply carbonated water that has been flavoured with ginger (and sometimes other spices) and usually sweetened slightly. If you’re after a less sweet style, look for a ‘dry’ ginger ale, as these use less sugar.
, S L E R R A B D E R R A H C T WO N SE B O U R B O N . E T N . I l e r r E a b k a o d ON n m at ured in a se c o E xp e r t l y ag e d t h e
n
®
Y R O T S I H E K A M
®
SPIRITS COLUMN
Dominic Roskrow Drinksbiz UK based world whisky expert d.roskrow@aol.co.uk www.worldwhisky.co.uk
An eye on Ireland Innovation, craft and quality – it’s all happening in Ireland, says Dominic Roskrow. I LOVE the sound of hyperbole in the morning. So how about this: Ireland has the world’s most exciting and dynamic drinks market right now. I know, I know… that’s some statement. So let’s see how it stacks up. Firstly, there are some strong contenders elsewhere. The American craft distilling industry is on fire at the moment, and there is a constant flow of worthy and exciting new releases. But the brewing revolution has peaked and is a tad passé now, and for every very good new drink there are four that… aren’t. Where else? Japan, with the greatest selection and diversity, perhaps. But it’s not an innovative hub beyond a limited number of spirits products, is it? Or the United Kingdom, with its beers, gins, wines and whiskies? Arguably. You could take a bet on the dark horse that is the Alpine regions, with genevers, gins, whiskies, brandies, aquavits, beers and wines. All strong contenders. But, in my view, they don’t match Ireland right now. In February Bord Bia (the Irish Food Board), opened the Irish Embassy doors in London to some 200 food and drinks writers and invited them to sample some of the country’s best drinks. (And food too, the sausages were sensational). Three rooms were divided between whiskey and cream liqueurs; white spirits; and craft beer, cider and wine. I was meant to be in charge of the whiskey room but more than once found myself drifting elsewhere. What struck me about the products on display was their consistently outstanding quality. Not one drink I tasted wasn’t superbly made. In the whiskey room, established producers like Teeling and Walsh were lined up with new kids on the block, such as Hyde, Liberties and Gortinore, all who have yet to distil and mature their own 68 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
The Irish Embassy in London
“Wicklow Way Wines make a blackcurrant wine so fresh and clean that you’re transported to autumn meadows, and picking berries in the warmth…” whiskey but have bought in stock from other suppliers. And that’s the other thing that stands out about Ireland: the willingness of producers, even the giants such as Irish Distillers, to work together. There was definitely great whiskey (check out Hyde 6 Year Old Burgundy Cask Finish), but the real surprises came in the beer, wine and cider room. There were three stars of the night for me. Wicklow Way Wines, who make a blackcurrant wine so fresh and clean that you’re transported instantly to autumn meadows and picking berries in the warmth; Kinnegar Brewing for its utterly
superb Yannaroddy Porter; and Finnbarra Irish Craft Cider, which is pushing the apple bar outwards with a sweet, complex and moreish barrel-aged cider called Tawny, and an amazing dry and fizzy cider best described as apple Prosecco. There was so much more – I never made it to the White Spirits room but noted that it contained distillers such as Dingle and Glendalough, currently focusing on gin and vodka but laying down spirit for whiskey in the future. It all adds up to exciting times for Ireland, and there are plenty of others who weren’t at the Embassy but have a story to tell. Even Irish Distillers joined the fun in early March with the launch of four quirky and groundbreaking whiskeys. Yes, Ireland, the most dynamic and exciting drinks-producing country in the world. You got a problem with that? No, thought not.
P ROMOTION
Liquor Centre toasts 25 years serving New Zealand STARTING WITH just one store in 1992, persistence and many cold calls has seen The Liquor Centre Group grow to become New Zealand’s largest liquor chain in both store numbers (235 nationwide) and in sales volume. As it celebrates its 25th year of business in New Zealand, the company reflects on how far it has come and invites potential franchisees to consider joining today.
The path to success The Liquor Centre Group is a stand-alone, 100% New Zealand owned and operated company with no affiliations to any supplier, distributor or supermarket, which means no conflicts of interest – it prides itself on sticking to a strict code of ethics. It has built its company culture on four Cs: Commitment, Credibility, Consistency, and Caring. The company’s growth has been achieved through positive word of mouth and member references. The company considers visiting competitor stores in an attempt to pinch them, unethical. It has enjoyed pure organic growth based on the quality of service. It is constantly looking ahead to improve franchisee and customer experience, and two major developments recently have been the introduction of a Liquor Centre Gift Card (October 2016), a Liquor Centre Loyalty Card (February 2017) and nationwide store interior upgrade commencing April 2017.
Member benefits The Liquor Centre Group offers its members a wide range of benefits. Among them: • A substantial media schedule across television, digital and print. (The Liquor Centre advertises in 58 newspapers nationwide every month) • Digital presence with a mobile app and
one of the largest Facebook followings in the retail liquor industry • No contracts, screeds of rules, regulations or penalties. The Liquor Centre Group is confident in its reputation and service – if a store is unhappy, they are free to leave. However, 75% of stores have been with the Group over five years. Of these, 35% have been members for over 10 years, 10% over 15 years and 3% over 20 years. • The industry’s lowest joining and monthly franchise fees. No hidden joining costs and signage is free for stores. All rebates go directly to stores untouched by Liquor Centre Group Head office. Managing Director, Lal Senaratne, says
The Liquor Centre Group understands that store owners invest a lot of money and time in their own businesses. “That provides sufficient motivation to manage the store effectively,” he says. “We assist with any problems but leave the owners to manage the stores as they see fit, as they know their area and customers the best. In other words, we treat our store owners as responsible adults.”
Join today If you believe in being the master of your own store while having all the benefits of New Zealand’s largest liquor chain, it makes sense to join the Liquor Centre Group and help them celebrate 25 years serving New Zealand. Inquire today – email admin@liquorcentregroup.co.nz
DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 69
SPIRITS NEWS
Bespoke Madeira finish for Glenmorangie’s latest
Ceviche cocktail takes bartender to the top A CLEVER cocktail incorporating the classic South American dish ceviche saw Peter G Lowry of Hawthorn Lounge crowned New Zealand Champion of the 2017 Diplomatico World Tournament, giving him a chance at the global title in London. Lowry beat four other bartenders at the national final (organised by Diplomatico distributors Whisky Galore) held at the Foxtail Cocktail Bar in late February. He will head to the home of Diplomatico Rum in Venezuela to compete in the regional finals in April. If successful there, he will move on to London for the grand final, to compete for the title that New Zealand won two years ago. The five finalists had been given two weeks to create a unique cocktail with Diplomatico’s newest rum – ‘Mantuano’. Lowry used ceviche, a cured fish dish made using a marinade of citrus, onion, fresh chilli and spices. The liquid left behind after curing is known as ‘Leche de Tigre’ (Tiger’s Milk) and he incorporated some of this into his cocktail, which complemented the rum’s character and brought an intriguing and complex balance of sweet, salty, spicy and savoury flavours. 70 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
‘The Richard Parker – A Venezuelan Danger Daiquiri’ by Peter G Lowry 50ml Diplomatico Mantuano 30ml Leche de Tigre* 15ml 1:1 white sugar syrup 2 dash beetroot and orange bitters Shaken and served in a cocktail glass with a side of red snapper ceviche. (*To make your own Leche de Tigre, follow your favourite fish ceviche recipe and keep back some of the delicious and distinctively flavoured liquid once it is finished marinating) Find out more at diplomaticoworldtournament.com
THE LATEST release in Glenmorangie’s soughtafter Private Edition collection has launched globally and is the first Glenmorangie finished entirely in sun-baked Malmsey Madeira casks. Glenmorangie Bacalta (Scots Gaelic for ‘baked’) is the eighth addition to the collection of rare single malts. For Dr Bill Lumsden, Glenmorangie’s Director of Distilling, Whisky Creation and Whisky Stocks, it was an exacting task. He arranged for bespoke American oak casks to be created and heavily toasted, then seasoned to his specifications by Malmsey wine – the sweetest and most prized of the Madeira wines – which was baked to maturity inside as the casks lay in the heat of Madeira’s sun. The casks were then emptied, shipped to Scotland and filled with specially selected spirit already matured in ex-bourbon barrels. “Connoisseurs will recognise the radiating warmth of our bespoke sun-baked casks in Glenmorangie Bacalta’s aromas of ripe apricots, white chocolate and mineral notes,” says Lumsden. “There are complex tastes of mint toffee, baked fruits, honeycomb, almonds and dates, mingling with marzipan, white pepper and melon – and a rich, syrupy finish. Glenmorangie Bacalta is a burst of sunshine in a glass.” Glenmorangie Private Edition Bacalta, RRP$150. Moët Hennessey on 0800 226 650.
SPIRITS NEWS
East Imperial Gin Jubilee a hit in Auckland AUCKLAND PLAYED host to New Zealand’s first ever East Imperial Gin Jubilee over five days this summer – the first time it has been held outside Asia. East Imperial, the Kiwi maker of premium tonic waters and mixers, has hosted four successful jubilees in Southeast Asia since 2013, with last year’s regional jubilee topping tens of thousands of gin and tonics enjoyed across Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Phnom Penh, Bangkok and Singapore. The Auckland schedule encompassed master classes, bar trails, culinary pairing and a hunt for the city’s best gin and tonic, as voted by
the public. More than 1500 votes were submitted over the week via Instagram, with Haans Mayer from Golden Dawn (pictured right) beating 32 other bars to take the top award. Entitled ‘Resplendent Rogue’ Mayer’s G&T included flavours of orange marmalade and sherry.
Resplendent Rogue 30ml Rogue Society Gin 10mls Amontillado sherry 15mls homemade apricot syrup 1 Tbsp orange marmalade East Imperial Burma Tonic Garnish Rehydrated sherry apricots Candied orange peel
DRINKSBIZ WITH BATCH 10
The perfect mix
72 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Photo by Roberto Buzzolan
A LOVE of great bourbon, the Kiwi ‘can-do’ attitude, and access to some very special honey all came together for friends Brent Robinson and Gordon McKerchar, who are now the proud owners of New Zealand honey bourbon Batch 10. The idea first struck them after a day’s fishing with friends, when they tried putting a little honey into some bourbon and thought it tasted “quite good”. “The big players have their versions and that’s what introduced us to it initially,” says McKerchar, “but in true Kiwi fashion we thought ‘Hold on, this is nice but it’s a bit sweet – it tastes artificial’. It was that Kiwi attitude of ‘I wonder if we could do this better?’ And then you back yourself and talk it up and then you have to prove it!” Living in Puhoi, a small rural settlement north of Auckland, they knew there was some excellent local honey available. “After a while we decided to take it all a bit more seriously,” says Robinson, “and started on a mission of creating a honey bourbon that used a top Kentucky bourbon infused with a top New Zealand honey.” With bourbon strictly trademarked as a US product (and the majority coming out of Kentucky), the first step for the friends was to find the right bourbon to import for their mix. They reached an agreement with a supplier (who they can’t name) but Brent Robinson says it is one of the top three producers in the United States. “We import their bourbon in beautiful oak bourbon barrels and land it here, and then we infuse it with New Zealand honey.” It took the pair six months from first approaching the US distillers to getting the product to market, and they confess that getting the confidence of the Americans to supply the bourbon was no mean feat. “We had to get sign-off from the American Distilling Institute,” says Robinson, “but the one good thing was that they went away and did their research and looked at New Zealand honey and they had no problem with it – obviously because it has such a
Photo by Louise M Photography
The best of New Zealand meets Kentucky’s finest in a new bourbon with a difference
“We skim the honey out of the hives and it goes straight into the bourbon…” wonderful international reputation.” They approached their neighbours with hives, asking to try their different honeys before settling on the final single source honey from bees who feed on Manuka, kahikatea and rewarewa. “Manuka by itself would be too sweet for what we’re doing,” explains Robinson, “and so the mix that we have is a really dark brown, smooth honey.” The honey sediment is apparent in the bottle, appearing as a dark swirl when shaken. “We skim the honey out of the hives and it goes straight into the bourbon, so that’s the organic grainy bits from the hive,” he says. “We could take that out but we prefer to leave it in there to show people that it is real organic honey that’s going into it, not some sort of processed corn syrup.” After much experimental blending of the bourbon with various honeys it was finally the tenth version of a particular combination that hit the spot. “Originally we were
going to call it Puhoi Honey Bourbon… then everyone started calling it Batch 10…and the name just sort of stuck,” says Robinson. Packaged in a New Zealand-designed bottle with kiln-infused metallic print, the first bottles of Batch 10 launched in time for Christmas 2015. It is now in more than 60 outlets around Auckland, Bay of Plenty, Wellington and Queenstown. Robinson and McKerchar say these are predominantly offlicence, but on-premise is growing steadily. Batch 10 has been impressing consumers at Big Boys Toys, Taste Auckland, and The Chocolate and Coffee Show, and its creators say it strikes the right balance for broad appeal. “Bourbon drinkers like it because it still honours that bourbon flavour up front,” says Robinson, “but because the honey just smooths off the edges we found a lot of people who aren’t ‘spirit drinkers’ enjoyed it too.” Batch 10 – RRP $60-65 (700ml) and RRP $20 (100ml). Contact 021 530 550 or email brent@batch10.com
SPIRITS NEWS
Lewis Road goes adults-only
Stirring it up with Fernet Branca
FAMOUS FOR causing a frenzy over its collaborative chocolate milks with Whittaker’s, Lewis Road Creamery is spreading its wings with its first foray into the spirits category. Lewis Road Creamery Chocolate Cream Liqueur launched in February and is a 17% ABV blend of New Zealand cream, Belgian chocolate and triple distilled premium spirits. Lewis Road founder Peter Cullinane says it was a natural progression for the brand. “We’re all about innovation and finding new ways to pay homage to our dairy heritage and this cream liqueur delivers on our mission.” The liqueur is packaged in a gold aluminium bottle and protected with a push and twist cap that Lewis Road believes is a world first for an alcoholic beverage. There
AFTER THE success of last year’s BrancaMentor Cocktail Competition, Fernet Branca NZ has announced the 2017 competition will be held on April 10th at Ben Bayly’s newly opened The Grounds in Henderson, West Auckland. As in last year’s event, teams will be made up of one junior and one senior bartender, with the senior being the mentor. They will create their cocktail together: made by the junior bartender and presented by the senior. The aim is to encourage junior bartenders who may be competing in their first competition, and to have a strong emphasis on cocktails that can be easily reproduced at other venues. For more details on the 2017 event contact michellemcateer@xtra.co.nz
were some initial teething issues around difficulties opening the caps reported shortly after launch, but the company was quick to rectify this, and new caps were on the bottles by early March. Each bottle carries the Oritain traceability seal to certify authenticity and origin. Serving suggestions for the cream liqueur include over ice, in coffee, cocktails or over ice cream. Lewis Road Creamery Chocolate Cream Liqueur is RRP $49.99 for a 700ml bottle. For sales and distribution enquiries contact Moa Brewing at sales@moabeer.com
PREMIUM NEW ZEALAND
VERMOUTH
A modern style vermouth created from premium New Zealand grapes and a medicinal combination of fresh botanicals including native Kawakawa and Horopito gathered from the gardens around the distillery. Naturally golden in colour, this velvety vermouth has vibrant flavours of sweet citrus and ripe peach, balanced by bright herbaceous notes of fresh wormwood.
PREMIUM BOTANICAL SPIRITS crafted by hand, carved from nature www.karven.co.nz
For more information about our range of spirits contact: stephen@karven.co.nz , 021 723 090
SPIRITS NEWS
Karven expands range CRAFT DISTILLER Karven has added two new products to its range – a New Zealand vermouth and an Eastern European style Starka vodka. Karven co-founder Stephen Menzies says they had been planning for the vermouth since the company began in early 2016 with its initial Karven Dry Gin. “We’ve launched the vermouth on the back of what we’d seen internationally, but also our discussions with bartenders as we’d gone around selling our gin. They were talking about the need [for it], that there was no New Zealand vermouth and that it would be great to have something.” Karven’s Bianco Vermouth continues the company’s philosophy of enhancing spirits
Local flavours A DESIRE to push the boundaries of whisky making has seen craft distillers Thomson Whisky win fans and international accolades with their uniquely New Zealand approach. Owned and operated by Mat and Rachael Thomson, their philosophy is “contemporary whisky by traditional methods”. They pride themselves on innovation, quality local ingredients and a Kiwi ‘can do’ attitude when it comes to creating small batch single malt whiskies from scratch and by hand at their craft distillery in Riverhead, west of Auckland. They use barley grown and malted in Canterbury, local rainwater and ale yeasts. The couple aims to develop distinctively New Zealand flavour profiles and Thomson’s Manuka Smoke and South Island Peat whiskies are excellent examples of this – both of which won
74 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
with New Zealand botanicals. Kawakawa and horopito are the heroes, alongside wormwood, which is gathered from a garden next to the distillery they use in Puhoi, north of Auckland. The medium-sweet vermouth,
Gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2016. A Manuka Smoke whisky had long been a dream for Head Distiller Mat Thomson (“I’ve got samples from 2005 at home from me smoking the malt over a Manuka fire in my Weber barbecue!”) but he says he had to push for a peat smoked malt, which hadn’t been done before locally. After committing to a five tonne batch his instincts were proved right and the New Zealand peat smoked whisky has been a hit since its release in 2016. The use of ale yeasts came about when the company leased space at craft brewery Hallertau – a relationship Thomson says has proved invaluable. “Craft brewers are really great at doing collabs with each other so there’s different knowledge coming in regularly and different yeasts and different ideas. Out
(packaged in a glass-stoppered bottle as a nod to its medicinal origins) has flavours of sweet citrus and ripe peach, balanced by the fresh notes of wormwood. The Karven Starka Vodka is a contemporary take on a barrel-aged vodka that originated in Eastern Europe. “Our distiller is always experimenting,” says Menzies. “We thought we could do a great plain vodka, and we will launch one at some point, but to get into the market in New Zealand we wanted to be a little bit different.” Their research also showed several craft distillers in the US had released Starka vodkas, showing it was moving out of Eastern Europe and into other markets. “We’re really trying to be first to market,” says Menzies, “and to lead the market in what we’re doing, rather than following.” The grain vodka is rested in virgin American oak barrels for six to eight weeks and infused with Manuka honey and a range of botanicals, which gives it its distinctive amber hue. It has subtle cream and toasted vanilla notes with honey, and a complex blend of wood and spice on the finish. karven.co.nz
of that has come some great results that we wouldn’t otherwise have come up with ourselves. Ale yeasts don’t give you quite the yield in alcohol and the speed that distilling yeasts do, but they give some amazing flavours.” Current projects at Thomson Whisky include the imminent arrival of a new 1800L copper still, which will nearly triple capacity, while the continued drive for new flavour profiles has seen Mat Thomson exploring wine cask aged whisky. “To me, using New Zealand wine casks is a really great idea, as opposed to bringing in empty used bourbon barrels, or empty used sherry casks from overseas. I’ve been doing a bit of work with kinds of wine and how to treat the barrels so that the whisky comes out tasting as you hope and that’s been going really well.” thomsonwhisky.com
HOT MIXES
Whiskey a go-go
Christopher Leo Lisala of Palm Court at The Langham, Auckland creates four whiskey-based cocktails in honour of the inaugural NZ Whiskey Show
Plum and ginger purée 3 ripe whole plums 210mls simple syrup 3 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
Halve the plums and remove the stones. Blend all the ingredients on high for 4 to 6 seconds. Pass through a sieve into a bowl or jug. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Black Forest 45mls Thomson Two Tone Whisky 90mls mixed berry and coffee purée 15mls lime juice slapped mint for garnish
Build in an ice-filled cocktail glass. Garnish with mint.
Sweet and Smoky 45mls Thomson Manuka Smoke Whisky 2 dashes bitters 15mls Lustau PX sherry Pernod mist Maraschino cherry
Pour the Thomson whisky, bitters and sherry into a shaker. Add ice, cover and shake very hard for 6-8 seconds. Double strain into a chilled martini or small coup glass. Fill an atomiser with Pernod and spray over the top. Garnish with a cherry.
Smoked Spiced Plum 45mls Souchong tea-infused whiskey 15mls Lustau PX sherry 30mls plum and ginger purée
Pour all the ingredients into an ice-filled shaker. Cover and shake very hard. Double strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with edible flower (i.e. viola)
Palm Tree Breeze 45ml Famous Grouse 15mls lemon juice 15mls vanilla 15mls grapefruit juice sprig of thyme grapefruit peel, pith removed, for garnish
Build in a glass with crushed ice. Rub the thyme between your hands to warm and wrap inside the grapefruit peel to add as a garnish.
Mixed berry and coffee purée ½ cup sugar 1 cup water ¼ cup each blueberries and raspberries ½ cup strawberries 8 coffee beans piece of cheese cloth
Wrap the coffee beans in the cheese cloth and tie. Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a saucepan. Reduce the heat to low, add all the berries and stir for one minute. Remove from the heat, immerse the cheesecloth with coffee beans in the mixture and set the saucepan aside to cool. Once cooled, remove the coffee bean parcel and pour the mixture into a blender. Blend on high for 4 to 6 seconds. Pass through a sieve into a bowl or jug. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
The NZ Whiskey Show is on May 12-14 at The Langham, Auckland. Tickets available via houseofwhiskey.co.nz Tickets for the Langham Whiskey Makers Dinner (Friday May 12) available via The Langham on 09 379 5132 or email fbcoordinator@langhamhotels.com DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017 75
DISTRIBUTOR INDEX
Distributors Bach Brewing
Domaine Rewa
Invivo Wines
Q Liquid
Sur Ltd
09 390 0149 bachbrewing.co.nz
philippa@domainerewa.com domainerewa.com
09 630 6360 invivowines.com
09 636 7730 qll.co.nz
021 44 9596 sur.co.nz
Batch 10
Epic Beer
Karma Cola
Quench Collective
Taylors Wines
021 530 550 batch10.com
0800 212 337 epicbeer.com
021 457 422 karmacola.co.nz
0800 946 326 quenchcollective.co.nz
09 447 3801 taylorbrown.co.nz
Beam Suntory
EuroVintage
Karven
Red + White Cellar
Te Mania Wines
09 915 8440 beamsuntory.com
0800 388 766 eurovintage.co.nz
021 723 090 karven.co.nz
0800 946 3792 redwhitecellar.co.nz
03 544 7585 temaniawines.co.nz
Better Drinks
Federal Merchants & Co
Lion
Red Barrel
Thomson Whisky
09 837 6740 betterdrinks.co.nz
0800 846 824 federalmerchants.co.nz
0800 107 272 lionco.com
06 877 9400 redbarrel.co.nz
09 828 7271 thomsonwhisky.com
Bootleggers
Fairhall Downs
Maison Vauron
Richmond Plains
Tickety-Boo Liquor
021 507 230 bootleggers.nz
03 572 8982 fairhalldowns.co.nz
09 529 0157 mvauron.co.nz
03 544 7585 richmondplains.co.nz
09 377 7597 tickety-boo.co.nz
Byrne Wine
Folding Hill
Marisco Vineyards
RM Wines
Toi Toi Wines
09 407 3113 byrnewine.com
027 321 4256 foldinghill.co.nz
09 522 9684 marisco.co.nz
021 945 220 rmwines.co.nz
09 972 9498 toitoiwines.co.nz
Chard Farm
Giesen Wines
Mineral Wines
Sileni Estate
Treasury Wine Estates
03 442 6110 chardfarm.co.nz
03 344 6270 giesen.co.nz
027 580 7325 mineralwine.co.nz
06 879 8768 sileni.co.nz
0508 873 278 tweglobal.com
Charles Wiffen
Good George Brewing
Mission Estate
Silver Wing Wines
Villa Maria
03 319 2826 charleswiffenwines.co.nz
07 846 9364 goodgeorge.co.nz
06 845 9350 missionestate.co.nz
021 838 575 silverwingwines.co.nz
0800 505 656 villamaria.co.nz
Churton Wines
Great Little Vineyards
MoĂŤt Hennessy
Six Barrel Soda
Vintners NZ
03 572 4007 churtonwines.co.nz
09 529 0935 greatlittlevineyards.com
0800 226 650 moethennessy.com
022 077 9553 sixbarrelsoda.co.nz
0800 687 9463 vintners.co.nz
Coca Cola Amatil
Greystone Wines
Mudbrick Vineyard
Soho Wines
Whitehaven
0800 262 226 ccamatil.co.nz
03 314 6100 greystonewines.co.nz
09 372 9050 mudbrick.co.nz
021 687 646 sohowineco.com
021 738 315 whitehaven.co.nz
Constellation Brands
Hallertau
Negociants
Spade Oak Vineyard
Whistling Buoy
0800 662 456 constellationnz.com
09 412 5555 hallertau.co.nz
0800 634 624 negociantsnz.com
06 867 0198 spadeoak.co.nz
03 329 4339 whistlingbuoy.co.nz
Co-Pilot Distributors
Hancocks
Peckham’s Cider
Spy Valley Wines
Yealands Wine Group
027 297 0137 copilotdistributors.co.nz
0800 699 463 hancocks.co.nz
03 543 2959 peckhams.co.nz
03 572 6088 spyvalleywine.co.nz
09 920 2880 yealandsestate.co.nz
DB Breweries
Independent Liquor
Pernod Ricard
Sunshine Brewery
0800 746 432 db.co.nz
0800 420 001 independentliquor.co.nz
0800 655 550 pernod-ricard-nz.com
06 867 7777 sunshinebrewery.co.nz
76 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
Distributed by Federal Merchants & Co. Ph: 0800 846 824 | E: info@federalmerchants.co.nz | W: federalmerchants.co.nz
LAST REQUESTS
Leading from the front
Restaurateur Michael Dearth is a familiar sight front of house at The Grove and Baduzzi in Auckland, which he owns with wife Annette. Thirteen years after opening The Grove he has become known as much for his extensive wine knowledge as his hospitality nous. Here, he talks about cranes, changes in consumers’ drinking habits and the rise of ‘dirty’ wines. On the challenges of hospitality at the moment
Bish with his concrete ‘egg’ … that’s really interesting. [These wines] are really surprising a lot of people – you’re seeing a trend with very little or no sulphur, little intervention and letting the wine speak for itself…just dirty wines! Dirty, cloudy wines. It’s even becoming more common at some more ‘mainstream’ wineries, like Trinity Hill. I worked with their winemaker, Warren Gibson on a Marsanne/Viognier. They left it in tank on the skins for 80 days, didn’t add anything to it, then poured it into a puncheon. They called it ‘Mr D’s Au Naturel’.
Construction is so painful. Down by Baduzzi I counted 20 cranes around the vicinity… Auckland is going through some growing pains and it’s going to be great, [but] if you could please just freeze my body cryogenically and wake me up when it’s all done. There are several streets closed off by Baduzzi, and then by The Grove we had Wyndham Street closed and Albert Street is still closed and it’s going to be closed for a while. It’s a bit nerve-wracking but business is still good and it’s just one of those things we have to endure.
On how consumer tastes have changed When I was writing the wine list at The Grove 13 years ago I wanted to have a Sancerre in the Sauvignon Blanc section, because it’s from the Loire Valley, arguably the birth place of Sauvignon Blanc. But I would sell maybe one every four months, because Kiwis were like ‘Why would I want to have a Sauvignon Blanc from France when we make beautiful ones here?’ Now, the biggest wheelhouse on The Grove wine list is our ‘interesting’ categories [red and white wines] – everything from Zweigelts and Saperavi from Hans Herzog, to a beautiful Nerello Mascalese from Sicily. So suddenly, at The Grove in particular, things have changed quite a bit. Neudorf, for example, has a beautiful Grüner Veltliner and Albariño as well. A lot of wineries are experimenting with these ‘weird’ aromatic varieties and I’ve always thought the New Zealand climate really suits them.
On introducing diners to new wine styles Maybe it’s because I’m known for wine and providing some interesting stuff, and I’m lucky [too] because I have some really good wine reps who go ‘Oh yes, this is definitely Michael’s style’ and so some of the weird wines find me. But I also search 78 DRINKSBIZ APRIL / MAY 2017
I love some of these natural wines – where people are embracing the way Phoenicians made wine 4000 years ago in terracotta vessels. them out. At Baduzzi we have three by the bottle price categories where we have over 80 different wines, like Susumaniello, and people are forced to put their hand up and ask what things are. The starting point is what they normally enjoy: ‘I drink Pinot Noir’. Well, we don’t have any Pinot Noir because Baduzzi is an Italian restaurant, but we have these Etna Rossos, which are Pinot-like, you know they like really hot days but really cold nights and that’s a nice alternative to Pinot.
On what’s on the rise I love some of these natural wines – where people are embracing the way Phoenicians made wine 4000 years ago in terracotta vessels. Ben [Bayly] and I visited COS in Italy, where they age the wines in partially buried terracotta amphoras. A lot of wineries are starting to embrace alternative vessels, like concrete. They don’t want any wood interference. People like [winemaker] Tony
On what he likes to serve other than wine
Craft beers are really trendy and at Baduzzi we take it a step further and do a seasonal collaboration with Hallertau that’ll have influences from Sicily. We’ve had a chamomile citrus wheat beer, which was awesome. It was lemon, grapefruit and chamomile and it was pretty gangsta. I’ll go in and spend a day with [brewer] Stephen Plowman. The first one was an apricot almond beer. We got the apricots and even cracked the stones open and got that little seed out, which has a real sort of marzipan vibe, and then we also used the flesh of the almonds. It was a little bit weird for some people but I loved it and we had fun.
On his favourite autumn food and drink pairing Annette makes an awesome pumpkin pie. The best way to have it is for breakfast, when it’s been in the fridge. You make up some whipped cream with a vanilla pod and some caster sugar and have it on a slice of pie, served with black American filtered coffee. That is good.