Drinksbiz August September 2015

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FROM THE EDITOR

dry sherry trend, ‘en rama’ (literally ‘from cask’) THERE WAS Chablis, Burgundy, a Hungarian to outstanding full bodied Bolly (Bollinger Spetokaji, a tawny port and even (apparently the cial Cuvee NV) one of the Champagne region’s cure to all life’s ills) an exceptionally high qualicons, thanks to the extremely unusual (for ity cognac, but, for me, it was the French and champagne) inclusion of oak in its production.

German whites and the Spanish and Italian reds These are cutting edge that shone. It was the 30th Congratulations to Drinksbiz’ wines. As were the other birthday party of NegoUK columnist, Dominic highlights of the Negociants New Zealand, held Roskrow; winner of the 2015 ciant’s 30th anniversary this in July.

Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer Negociants is one of this year. More than anything, of the Year. Read Dom’s latest it is companies such as country’s biggest wine column on page 10 and more importing and distribution Negociants that highlight about his award here: companies, headed by the best thing of all about fortnumandmasonawards.com the drinks business: diverClive Weston, who celebrated the 30th birthday sity. This can apply equally as powerfully to cider, beer and spirits as it does occasion in fitting style. He invited wine trade to wine. and media to taste the highlights of the comSo, let’s raise a glass to companies such as pany’s extensive wine portfolio.

Negociants, whose staff and management work The wines that Negociants bring to and distribhard to promote the beauty of a wide range of ute in this country are incredibly varied and they drinks to New Zealanders. show that even here, in a small and extremely far flung market of fewer than 3 million wine drinkCheers, ers, we can enjoy a range of the world’s most Joelle Thomson exceptional wines. These range from the latest

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Happy birthday, Negociants...

Sauvignon Blanc is bigger than Texas in New Zealand (it is nearly 80% of the rapidly growing wine exports that this country makes), so it is heartening to see New Zealand’s first Sauvignon Blanc conference now on the calendar; details on page 14.

EDITOR’S PICKS 2014 Black Estate Home Chenin Blanc Half bottles rarely get as delicious as this exceptional South Island white with its pronounced aromas of white honey, flowers and apple.

1997 Marc Bredif Vouvray, Grande Annee, Loire Valley, France An oldie that looks a lot younger than its 18 years; still fresh as a daisy and even more beautiful in taste.

Label 5 Blended Scotch Whisky This commanding 1 litre bottle of blended scotch has complex flavours of butterscotch, caramel and toasted coconut.

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 3

CONTENTS

Publisher Karen Boult karen@boult.co.nz +64 21 320 663 Editor Joelle Thomson joelle@drinksbiz.co.nz +64 21 376 786 Designer Lewis Hurst lewis@hcreative.co.nz +64 21 146 6404 hcreative.co.nz

Gin renaissance – the beauty of botanics

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GIN CATEGORY REPORT–PAGE 54

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Hot Mixes Bombay’s beautiful new glass and what to mix in it 53

High 5 Top new wines selected by our editor 40

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ON THE COVER

Heart of the matter

It has a new look and a new packaging but, even more importantly, the profile of el Jimador tequila continues to gain brand traction in New Zealand bars, cafés and restaurants

CASA HERRADURA is one of Mexico’s oldest tequila producers, so it may seem fitting that its makers have given their el Jimador tequila a brand spanking new look – it launched in New Zealand this year and is featured on the cover of this issue of Drinksbiz.

While the el Jimador tequila brand has been available in New Zealand for several years now, the brand manager for Hancocks, Michael Antunovich, says that the new look will help to raise its profile.

“The el Jimador Tequila Reposado and Blanco have been available in New Zealand for several years (this is the house tequila at the Mexican Café), but last year the el Jimador Añejo arrived and now we have had a brand refresh,” Antunovich says.

The word ‘Añejo’ means ‘aged’ and it can be used to refer to tequila (or cheese or, even, to people). In the case of el Jimador, the aged tequilas are matured in charred white American oak barrels. The heavy charring of the insides of the barrels has two purposes; it imparts flavour to the tequila while the fiery spirit softens through the controlled oxidative process as it ages in barrel. And, secondly, heavy charring can also work as a type of filter to purify the spirit as it ages.

Añejo tequilas are a category that is less well known in New Zealand than blanco (white) tequila.

The history and mystery of el Jimador The story of Casa Herradura began in 1870 when its founder, Aurelio López Rosales, was out inspecting the agave fields of Hacienda San José del Refugio and saw something shiny on the horizon; a horse shoe reflecting in the sunlight.

And so he named his tequila brand ‘herradura’; the Spanish word for horse shoe.

Today Casa Herradura tequilas are produced just outside of Amatitán, a small town which is about 35 kilometres from the city of Guadalajara. This is the heart of Mexico’s tequila production zone. The location accounts for el Jimador (pronounced el-heem-a-door) being a 100% agave tequila, which is made entirely from the tequilana weber blue agave. Or, more accurately, from the starchy hearts of the blue agave; a solid clump that lies underneath the plump leaves of the agave plant. This starchy core is carved away from the foliage after harvest. It needs to be modified by heat in order to release its fermentable sugars to begin the production process.

To describe a tequila as

Herradura was named the 2007 Best Distiller of the Year

by Wine Enthusiast magazine. being 100% agave means that during the fermentation stage of its production, it is made solely from agave juice mixed only with water. Some tequila producers create a mixed product; made from a blend of agave juice with other sugars, such as cane or corn, and water.

The makers of el Jimador bottle their tequila at the hacienda; the ranch. After the newly-labelled bottles are boxed for shipping, official government certification (also known as bonding) is completed when government agents give their seal of designation (which proves the tequila’s origins) to the tequila. It is then ready to begin its journey through the supply chain where, ultimately, it will end up in the glass of the tequila consumer.

In New Zealand, this means the Mexican Café and other discerning outlets. el Jimador Tequila is available to the trade via Hancock’s Wine, Spirits and Beer Merchants and to consumers via Glengarry stores.

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 5

IN VINO VERITAS

Joelle Thomson Editor Drinksbiz joelle@drinksbiz.co.nz

Accounting for price What makes champagne cost more than any other sparkling wine in the world?

MOËT & Chandon is the most powerful name in the world of champagne today –the biggest producer, owner of prestige cuvee Dom Perignon, and has its own R&D lab - but is Moët the best sparkling wine in the world?

It’s a question with so many variables that there is no short answer.

Moët is certainly one of the most successful marketers of champagne. To judge by its new 2006 Grand Cuvee Moët & Chandon – launched in New Zealand this year – it also makes some of the best champagnes. It has the resources to because its parent company, Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey (formed in 1987), is owned by the fourth richest person in the world; Bernard Arnault.

The launch of Moët’s new 2006 top new bubbly and also of new PerrierJouet vintage champagnes in Auckland recently prompted both gasps at the price and gulps at the deliciousness of wines that cost several hundred dollars each, per bottle. This gave many in the drinks trade pause for thought about exactly what goes into making these high cost wines. With a looming (at the time of writing) sparkling wine exam, I have delved into what accounts for the price of champagne and other sparkling wines.

There is a difference between high priced sparkling wines and low priced ones. It is often obvious in taste, but not always so.

The Champagne region (capital ‘c’ because it is a place, as opposed to the 6 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

wine from it, champagne, a generic name) has a system of vineyard classification that is different to any other in France. It was devised to determine grape prices, which in turn sets the price of the region’s top wines. Instead of following the French norm where vineyards are allocated quality ratings, Champagne’s villages are graded Grand Cru and Premier Cru by the Echelle des Crus (the ladder of quality) system, which was devised by merchants and grape growers in 1919. This ranks villages on a 100% quality scale. It was initially conceived based on wines from

There are many valid reasons that high priced champagne is so costly. The better question for those of us in the drinks trade is: which wines are worth it? areas that were in historically high demand; Ay and Bouzy in the Montagne de Reims (the Pinot Noir dominant area in Champagne), Cramant in the Côte de Blancs (Chardonnay dominant) and Sillery in Marne were among the original and today’s Grand Cru Champagne villages.

There are 320 villages within the legally designated borders of the Champagne appellation controlee (AC) region today.

Just 17 are classified as Grand Cru villages (graded 100% quality). Another 41 are classified Premier Cru (graded 90 to 99% quality). Beneath these, other villages are ranked lower, without any specific name

but often at about 80%.

The Echelles des Crus grading system is now 105 years old and could be said to be somewhat outdated. Many believe that it needs an overhaul because viticultural growing methods have changed significantly over the past century. Areas that did not previously produce high quality grapes are now capable of producing exceptional grapes – and often do. The style of champagne has also changed.

It has been getting drier. In 2009, the style of all ‘brut’ (dry) champagnes changed when the legal level of sweetness dropped from 15 grams per litre to 12 grams per litre. Brut champagne is now generally drier than it was just six years ago. All wines labelled ‘brut’ have some sweetness to balance the wine’s naturally high acidity, due to Champagne’s cool climate. Add 15 months minimum legal bottle ageing on lees (left over yeast cells) for non vintage champagne and three years for vintage, and this is a costly production process. Then there is the convoluted degorgement, which sees the yeast lees ejected from the bottle, which is then topped up with a liqueur d’expedition. There are many valid reasons that high priced champagne is so costly. The better question for those of us in the drinks trade is: which wines are worth it?

Read High 5, page 40 for my round up of five exceptional sparkling wines with the X-factor.

the most important bottle of wine in our history is the one we’re making tomorrow.

We know the reputation of our wine is only as good as the next bottle of Yalumba a customer opens. So we put the same attention to detail into every bottle of wine we make. Regardless of variety. Regardless of quantity. And regardless of price tag. We treat each bottle like it’s the most important one in the winery. That’s why our most affordable wines receive awards and accolades as well as our premium drops.

Sure it means more work. Sure it’s probably not the most profitable way to operate. But it’s how we’ve done it for over 165 years and how

kwp!YAL10558

we’ll keep doing it for the love of wine.

COLUMN

Jenny Cameron Brewers Association of Australia and New Zealand Email: jenny.cameron@brewers.org.nz

Message on a bottle

Fiction, fact or a media beat-up of both?

Foetal Alcohol Spectrum Disorder is one of the most emotively charged hot news topics.

IT SEEMS that alcohol and its effect on babies has been in the news a lot lately.

The brief furore the other month over the waitress who refused to serve a glass of wine to a pregnant woman raised the interesting issue of the tension between human rights and host responsibility. The tragic case of Teina Pora highlighted the very real long term impacts that drinking can have on babies born with the condition that is labelled Fetal Alcohol Spectrum Disorder. Both cases served to highlight the importance of understanding the risks of drinking whilst pregnant.

The Health Promotion Agency (HPA) has now also stepped into this space, quietly launching its latest campaign focused on this particular area in June. Entitled “Don’t know: Don’t drink”.

This encourages women to stop drinking if there is any chance they could be pregnant. Perhaps the most significant part of the campaign is the coordination with primary health care providers to assist them with the right tools and resources to deliver a clear and consistent message. And that message is that there is no known safe level of alcohol during pregnancy.

It was clear that this was an area with room for improvement following the 8 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Ministry of Health’s Alcohol Use 2012/13 report released in February this year.

Minister Dunne noted then that “both the Ministry of Health and the Health Promotion Agency advise that there is no known safe level of alcohol consumption for women during their pregnancy. In light of this, I would expect to see all women receiving this advice from their respective health professionals, be they midwives, GPs or nurses. The current figure of 68% of women receiving this advice, from any

The message is that there is no known safe level of alcohol during pregnancy. source, is still far too low”. However, I have noticed a shift in advice on this topic between my two pregnancies three years apart, to one that is now a much clearer and consistent message to avoid alcohol.

And what of alcohol producers and their obligation to alert women to the risks?

Providing accurate information about drinking, including during pregnancy, is the responsible thing to do, and has been taken up as a voluntary commitment by the world’s biggest alcohol producers.

The Brewers Association and its mem-

bers support all efforts to ensure that cases of FASD are minimised, and as such Lion and DB Breweries are labelling their products with the advisory pictogram and/or the message “it is safest not to drink whilst pregnant”. The pictogram is an internationally developed symbol that overcomes language and literacy hurdles.

We hope to see the pictogram replicated through the HPA materials so as to help drive recognition and awareness of the message as much as possible.

Cheers.org.nz is also on every bottle of beer produced by Lion and DB. In addition to the tools and information to promote moderate drinking there is a dedicated page on the website titled “Mummy Matters” that explicitly provides the information that “drinking no alcohol is the safest choice for your baby”.

It must also be remembered though that a label on a bottle is only ever a reminder or a prompt for information a woman should have received elsewhere, hopefully from her midwife or doctor, and hopefully supported by her partner, family and friends. The bottom line is that the more consistent, clear, continuous and creative ways there are to spread the message the better for everyone, especially our babies.

©2015 Schweppes Holdings Limited. ‘Schweppes’ is the registered trade mark of Schweppes Holdings Limited.

COLUMN

Dom Roskrow Drinksbiz UK based world whisky expert dominic@true-spirit.co.uk

Spoilt by choice

More choice is a good thing but a confused consumer is not, which is why innumerable flavoured spirits may need to be ring fenced by definitions

HOW WOULD you define ‘Irish whiskey’?

It’s not as stupid a question as it might first seem. It’s a spirit made from grain, yeast and water in the country of Ireland, right?

Well perhaps, but not necessarily. Would a whiskey made in Ireland with rye as the principal ingredient be an Irish whiskey, or for that matter would a rye whisky made in Scotland be a Scotch whisky?

We live in exciting times when it comes to the production of spirits. Across the globe, from the southern extremes of New Zealand to the northern wilderness of Sweden, distillers are making and maturing exciting and innovative spirits. But they’re also creating a recipe for confusion as they move further away from the original template of whisky, genever, absinthe or gin.

That raises some very serious questions indeed. After all, if an English gin tastes like a Caribbean coconut cocktail, is it still an English gin? Was that sickly toffee-ish drink released a few years back really worthy of the name ‘poteen’, and isn’t ‘premium moonshine’ a contradiction in terms?

Truth is, the world of spirits production is progressing so fast that it’s hard to keep up.

I used an Irish whiskey example at the start of this column for a reason: Ireland has just introduced an Irish Whiskey Association similar to the one that exists in Scotland.

Almost inevitably, there has been bickering between some of the new and very small craft distillers and some bigger companies that are in the driving seat when it comes to definitions.

But the Irish and Scottish associations are necessary: they are metaphorical fortresses 10 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

reinforcing their walls and bringing up the drawbridge. The rest of us are scrabbling around in the wild frontiers, the spirits world’s version of a Mad Max landscape. And out here bad things happen.

Why does it matter? Because while more choice is a good thing, a confused consumer is not. Nor is a lack of trust, and trust goes straight out the window if you expect to get a sweet juniper and fruit combo and you end up with a kipper and pepper deli drink instead. It might be extremely well made kipper and pepper drink, but it’s not a sweet gin. You can call your cat Fido but…

These are early days, but different territories are already reacting to the issue in different ways. If an English gin tastes Sweden has considered like a Caribbean coconut a definition of Swedish cocktail, is it still an whisky right down to English gin? Was that what strength it must be, sickly toffee-ish drink but there is opposition. released a few years Australia, on the other back really worthy of the hand, takes a far more name ‘poteen’, and isn’t laissez-faire approach, ‘premium moonshine’ a and in Tasmania you’ll find contradiction in terms? distillers producing single malts, ryes and Irish style whiskeys. All of them fall under the category ‘Australian whisky.’

As we go forward more and more spirits drinks will test the boundaries of taste and acceptability. In the interests of quality, they need to be monitored. Nobody wants to curb innovation, but we need rules. After all, as the pub landlord might put it, where would we be without rules?

Certainly not Ireland…

WE’VE BUILT A NEW TOP SHELF.

GOLD MEDAL AWARD WINNERS FROM THE 2015 SAN FRANCISCO WORLD SPIRITS COMPETITION:

RETAIL ENQUIRIES: Please contact your Beam Suntory Account Manager. / ON PREMISE ENQUIRIES: Please contact your Beam Suntory Account Manager or Pernod Ricard Territory Manager.

OUT & ABOUT

Kylie Cooke

, Brant Fras

er

Dan Higgins , Dion Nas

h, Clif ton Piper, Nadine

Chalmers-Ross

Out & About

Bubbles is the order of the day THE MAKERS of Veuve Clicquot partnered with Air New Zealand to sell packages down to Clicquot in the Snow this winter, which saw the champagne brand served on ice; literally...

Carolyn Enting, Kent Hutchings, Sarah Hutchings

an w Stevens, Dunc Katrina Hall, Andre wkesby Ha n he etc Gr y, Hawkesb

Perrier-Jouët champagne and Clooney partners

Angela Cas

CELEBRATING THE Perrier-Jouët champagne and Clooney restaurant partnership, champagne ambassador Chris Sheehy opened three new vintages of Perrier-Jouët champagne - Blason Rosé, Belle Epoque 2007 and Belle Epoque Rosé 2006 - to high profile media guests. A Perrier-Jouët steelwork was designed by Tony Stewart from Clooney to celebrate and decorate the restaurant’s new Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Private Dining Room. Perrier-Jouët was founded in 1811 and today its owners have 65 hectares ranked at 99.2% on the scale of grands crus in the Champagne region.

ley, Tony St

ewar t and

Amanda Li

nnell

Cameron and Delaney Mes

Joelle Thomson and

Chris Sheehy

Lisa Morton and John Baker

Clayton Carpinter and

12 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Nici Wickes

Jesse and Victoria

Mulligan

Marion and Bo

b Campbell M

W

OUT & ABOUT

The Great Aussie Beer Fest’ THE GREAT Australasian Beer SpecTAPular (GABS) barrelled its way to success this year with a record turn out of more than 22,500 people attending the Melbourne and Sydney festivals.

“The response to GABS 2015 in Melbourne and Sydney has blown us away, with both events better attended and more successful than we could have hoped for. We feel it really confirms the increasing interest in craft beer, and the uniqueness of our event,” says Guy Greenstone, a co-founder of GABS, and owner of the Local Taphouse in St Kilda, Melbourne.

Thirsty Work wine producer and presenter Yvon ne Lorkin (on right)

Duck for the Bay

Winemaker Nick Lane

(second from left) with

THE FIFTH annual Cloudy Bay Pinot & Duck Tasting Trail was held recently at restaurants nationwide; each restaurant served a glass of Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir for a set price with a specially tailored dish to match...

chefs

Journalist and author Carolyn Enting with Pe ebles Hooper

Boh Runga

with writer

Helene Ra

vlich

Clive Weston

Negociants celebrate 30th birthday CLIVE WESTON, head man at Negociants New Zealand, invited wine trade and media to celebrate the 30th anniversary of business for Negociants in this country; among the wine highlights were the exceptional Bolly (aka Bollinger Special Cuvee NV) and Tio Pepe En Rama; a fino sherry which is deeper in colour, aroma and flavour than most. More details in our Editor’s Letter, page 3.

Master S

ommelier

Cameron

Celia Hay of the NZ School

Douglas

of Food & Wine

ers ht) with tast iant s (on rig oc eg N of n inso Andrew Park DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 13

DIARY DATES

Diary Dates

Tuesday 11 August onwards

Friday 4 to Sunday 6 September

CURED & CURIOUS TUESDAYS

THE FOOD SHOW WELLINGTON

MOLTEN, MT EDEN, AUCKLAND

WESTPAC STADIUM, WELLINGTON

Molten’s resident sommelier already has 150 different wines to choose from, over a dozen of which are available by the glass and, now, Sven Nielsen is launching interactive evenings to learn more about wine. Every Tuesday.

This show takes place over Father’s Day, so there will be plenty on offer for dads living in the windy city.

molten.co.nz

Tuesday 11 August to Thursday 13 August

HANCOCKS TOUR 2015

Taste, talk about and learn more of the Hancocks portfolio in Auckland (at Eden Park), Wellington (at the St James Theatre) and Christchurch (at the Addington Events Centre) in August.

Trade can register for the 2015 Hancocks Tour online at: hancocks.co.nz/tour

Friday 14 to Saturday 15 August

BEERVANA 2015 WESTPAC STADIUM, WELLINGTON

New Zealand’s premier craft beer festival and the dream beer and food experience. beervana.co.nz

foodshow.co.nz

Sunday 13 to Monday 14 September

FOOD & WINE CELEBRATION 2015

Join the tastings of food and wine at the second annual celebration of both at the New Zealand School of Food & Wine at 104 Customs Street West in downtown Auckland city. Master of Wine Bob Campbell will take tasting tours of the school’s events, there will be master classes on food how-to and tastings galore. foodandwine.co.nz

5 to 8 November

TASTE OF AUCKLAND WESTERN SPRINGS, AUCKLAND

Craft beer, paleo food and master classes with chefs are among the entrées at this year’s Taste of Auckland, which will also feature a Fisher & Paykel test kitchen.

Saturday 15 August

tasteofauckland.co.nz

SYMPHONIC FEAST AT PALLISER ESTATE

Sunday 15 November 2015

PALLISER ESTATE, MARTINBOROUGH

Symphonic Feast – The Four Seasons is a four course meal and music event at Palliser Estate’s barrel hall in Martinborough with the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra (NZSO).

Food is made with Wairarapa produce by Café Medici, matched with Palliser Estate wines. Tickets $195 per person and can be purchased at the Visa Wellington On A Plate website.

Bookings essential, phone (06) 306 9019 or email: Pip Goodwin at: pipg@palliser.co.nz

TOAST MARTINBOROUGH WINE, FOOD AND MUSIC FESTIVAL

Toast Martinborough is a Sunday afternoon stroll (or a free shuttle bus) between the nine wineries; at the home of their vineyards. Tickets sell out quickly. Get yours from Ticketek from 9am, 23 September. toastmartinborough.co.nz facebook.com/toastmart

Tuesday 11 to Thursday 13 August

HANCOCKS TOUR 2015

Taste, talk about and learn more of the Hancocks portfolio in Auckland (at Eden Park), Wellington (at the St James Theatre) and Christchurch (at the Addington Events Centre) this August. hancocks.co.nz/tour

Monday 1 to Wednesday 3 February 2016

International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration

Marlborough is the place, Sauvignon Blanc is the theme and this country’s most widely exported wine with 85% of current exports being Sauvignon Blanc. sauvignon2016.com

14 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

INDUSTRY NEWS

The winners

Michael Dearth, Holly Wilson and Nik Stakes at The Lewisham Awards

Lewishams award top people

Competition was fiercer than ever at the annual Lewisham Awards in Auckland this year, said chair Chris Upton LEWISHAM FOUNDATION chair Chris Upton says that the tough competition at this year’s annual awards was indicative of a dynamic and fast growing industry in New Zealand’s largest city.

“Results in many of the categories this year have been very tight – especially the Moët Hennessy Outstanding Hospitality Personality – which to me demonstrates our industry is in excellent heart,” Upton said, following the awards, which were announced on Sunday 7 June.

The 14th annual Lewisham Awards included two winners from 2014 on this year’s honours board, which Upton says further reinforces the dynamic nature of the hospitality industry in Auckland.

While there were only two repeat winners in 2015, three establishments each won two awards apiece at this year’s event, which was held at Shed 10 on Auckland’s waterfront.

Parnell’s newest restaurant Woodpecker Hill, which opened its doors this year, won awards for General Digital Outstanding Maître d’ (Ash Visvanathan) and Menumate Outstanding New Venue.

At the well established end of the winning spectrum, Monsoon Poon’s top quality was again highlighted with Nicola Richards winning the Moët Hennessy Outstanding Hospitality Personality and Pernod Ricard Outstanding Restaurateur awards.

The Ponsonby bar Mea Culpa won the award for Beam Suntory Outstanding Bar for the second year in a row, and staff member Kate Rose won the Angostura Outstanding Bartender award.

Read our story on Meg, page 68...

Meg Abbott-Walker won the Negociants Outstanding Wine Service Professional award; see our story on page 68.

Fast facts The Lewisham Awards was established in 2002 to encourage excellence and raise standards in Auckland’s hospitality community. The awards are organised by a committee of industry professionals and were named in honour of the late Auckland hospitality entrepreneur Richard Lewisham who helped to establish the modern day eating and drinking scene in the ‘City of Sails’.

Angostura Outstanding Bartender Kate Rose, Mea Culpa Beam Suntory Outstanding Bar Mea Culpa L’affare Outstanding Coffee Establishment/Barista EightThirty Crombie Lockwood Outstanding Waiter Des Dillon, Soul Bar EuroVintage Outstanding Wine List The Grove General Digital Outstanding Maitre d’ Ash Visvanathan, Woodpecker Hill Gilmours Outstanding Chef Michael Meredith, Meredith’s Menumate Outstanding New Venue Woodpecker Hill Aotearoa Fisheries Emerging Talent Rohan Satam, Wine Chambers Moët Hennessy Outstanding Hospitality Personality Nicola Richards, Monsoon Poon Negociants Outstanding Wine Service Professional Meg Abbott-Walker, Masu OneMusic Outstanding Establishment Coco’s Cantina Pernod Ricard Outstanding Restaurateur Nicola Richards, Monsoon Poon Restaurant Association of New Zealand Outstanding Sales Representative James Barber, Mineral Wines Fine Food NZ Outstanding Caterer LittleWolf Spark Business Outstanding Supplier The Produce Company Waterfront Auckland Outstanding Local Mo’s Bar

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 15

INDUSTRY NEWS

Schweppes’ new traditionals The makers of Schweppes launched a new look for their traditionals range in June, which was supported by strong advertising on billboards, in trade magazines, point of sale in-store and a strong sampling campaign to enable consumers to try the products.

The range includes Classic Ginger Beer with brewed ginger, a new Spicy Ginger Beer, in response to consumer demand for an ‘extra strong’ variant with an intense ginger kick and also Light Ginger Beer with just four calories, Lemon Lime & Bitters and Old Fashioned Lemonade.

“The new range offers a premium soda

experience and has been tailored to appeal to adults who want to balance out their busy lives with the occasional tasteful indulgence. The new recipes have been established to meet consumer demand for an authentic taste – and we look forward to sharing the new drinks with New Zealanders,” says Jodie Timmins, brand manager adult & flavours at Coca-Cola New Zealand.

“Our extensive research and product sensory revealed that consumers want a real ginger beer experience. This means a

well balanced and refreshing authentic ginger taste, with a good level of ginger bite.

There are three ginger beer variants, to suit varying consumer tastes: Classic, Spicy and Light,” says Timmins.

The new Schweppes range is available in individual 330ml glass bottles and convenient four packs.

Powerade supports ABs

Yealands takes on new investor

The makers of Powerade have launched a new limited edition flavoured water to mark their support for the All Blacks’ campaign to win the Rugby World Cup 2015.

POWERADE is powering up support for the All Blacks ahead of the event with the launch of an exciting limited-edition flavour of the sports drink.

The Black Storm flavour has been created in celebration of Powerade’s sponsorship of the All Blacks, with the team’s logo featuring on the bottle.

“With excitement building and the 100 day countdown on, the limited-edition Black Storm drink is one way for rugby fans to show their support for the All Blacks,” says Tracey Evans, hydration marketing manager at Coca-Cola New Zealand.

“As a proud partner of the All Blacks, we are excited to be part of the build-up to Rugby World Cup 2015 in September.

Powerade is New Zealand’s leading sports drink*, so this is a great way to get behind our team,” adds Evans.

The Rugby World Cup 2015 takes place in England and Wales between 18 September and 31 October.

LIMITED OPPORTUNITIES to invest in the electricity industry was one of the reasons that Marlborough Lines Limited has decided to invest $89 million in the Yealands Wine Group, says Marlborough Lines managing director Ken Forrest.

He describes the purchase as a good investment for the company, which will provide increased dividends to consumers and long-term economic and social benefits to the region.

The announcement was made in late June. It means that Marlborough Lines owns an 80% shareholding in the Yealands Wine Group.

Yealands Wine Group founder Peter Yealands welcomed the investment, saying that he had been seeking an investor who shared his beliefs and would help to continue to build the wine business, both in terms of expanding its grape supply and in developing the company’s international marketing programme.

Marlborough Lines Limited is an electricity network owner and operator, which delivers electricity to approximately 24,500 customers on more than 3,350 kilometres of lines and cables over 11,330 square

16 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

kilometres. Its shareholder is the Marlborough Electric Power Trust on behalf of Marlborough’s current and future electricity users.

In announcing the acquisition, Forrest said that Marlborough Lines had realised profits of over $100 million from investments which, until recently, had been held outside the region.

“The investment in Yealands provides an opportunity to reinvest locally. Opportunities to invest in the electricity industry are limited and this led to us looking to other options. We are very pleased to have the opportunity to acquire an 80% interest in Yealands,” he said.

“We have received independent advice and carried out a comprehensive review of Yealands’ business and have been impressed with their achievements, particularly in light of their relatively short existence, and with their ambitious plans for growth. We are satisfied that this will be a successful investment which will broaden our asset base for the benefit of the people of Marlborough. We are pleased to be able to demonstrate our confidence in the future of Marlborough’s most important industry.”

INTERNATIONAL NEWS

International news Lifetime Achievement Award UK wine writer and author Hugh Johnson has received the 2015 Lifetime Achievement Award from the Institute of Masters of Wine. Johnson was given the award at a ceremony at Vinexpo in Bordeaux to recognise him as an outstanding and inspirational figure in the world of wine whose enduring contribution spans a whole career. The same award has previously been presented to the late Robert Mondavi (2005), Marchese Piero Antinori (2007), Jean-Michel Cazes (2011) and Baroness Philippine de Rothschild (2013). Johnson began writing about wine in the 1960s after completing a degree in English at Cambridge University.

He first wrote for Vogue and House and Garden, going on to become editor of Wine & Food and wine correspondent for The Sunday Times in 1962. Throughout his near 60 years in the trade, Johnson has published many books on wine, including The World Atlas of Wine in 1971, widely regarded as the first attempt to fully map the world’s wine regions.

International Brewing Awards The International Brewing & Cider Awards 2015 saw a German lager win its Champion Smallpack Lager; the Riegele Feines Urhell, Brauhaus Riegele from Augsburg, Germany was the winner at the annual awards this year. The Champion Keg Lager trophy was awarded to the 1650 Irish Lager from C&C Ireland, Clonmel, Ireland and the Champion Smallpack Ale was awarded to the Deschutes Brewery in Oregon, USA. The International Brewing & Cider Awards have run continuously since 1886.

Research drives sales A new wine research centre has opened at the University of Adelaide’s Waite campus this year. The ARC Training Centre for Innovative Wine Production will target key objectives such as managing flavour and alcohol content in Australia’s wines, despite growing environmental and cost pressures.

Global spirits decline The global spirits market declined 0.1% in 2014, a loss of 3.1 million nine-litre cases, according to the IWSR Database 2015 released this year. The report suggested that local spirits declined by 7.4m cases globally while imported spirits brands grew by 4.3m cases; not enough to offset the global decline. The Americas, CIS (the Rus18 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Oak overdone A leading wine consultant has hit out at the widespread reliance on oak barrels in high quality wine. Uruguayan winemaking consultant Alberto Antonini works in partnership with Bodega Garzón and has suggested that producers look at alternatives to what he describes as the Bordeaux recipe. Barrels are very negative and are not required to add flavour to wine because the world of wine is already full of different flavours, Antonini says. Micro-oxygenation is more beneficial to high quality wines, according to Antonini, who uses more oak in his entry level wines.

sian Commonwealth), and Europe posted declines in consumption of local spirits; the decline of cachaça in Brazil and vodka in Ukraine contributed highly to this. Imported spirits continued to grow in the Americas and Europe, albeit it at a slower pace than in 2013. Whisk(e)y and flavoured spirits are driving growth in the Americas. Whisk(e)y and gin are performing well in Europe, while flavoured spirits and vodka are falling out of favour.

Manchurian gin Manchester is the latest English city to have its own gin, with the launch of Thomas Dakin Gin this year by Quintessential Brands. The gin is named after an 18th century gin pioneer and is made in a small pot still with 11 botanicals; featuring, among other aromatic ingredients, orange peel, English coriander and red cole, a root used in 18th century gin production and known today as horseradish. Thomas Dakin, who founded the company that went on to become G&J Greenall, built his business on the premise that there was a market for higher quality gin, encouraging a shift away from the down-market image of gin at the time.

Japanese-Houston connection Two North American chefs plan to launch their first Japanese-styled gastro-pub in Houston, Texas in August; named an izakaya. The Japanese concept features Asian-inspired street food, such as brandy-

cured foie gras and the fresh five seaweed salad. The drinks at Izakaya will be made using original Japanese fermentation and preservation techniques and will include shochu and sake-based cocktails designed

by Claire Sprouse and Chad Arnholt of San Francisco-based Tin Roof Drink Community.

Wine complexity good marketing tool Understanding the difference between how professionals and consumers rate the `complexity’ of wine could open new avenues for marketing wines, says Dr Wendy Parr, researcher for Lincoln University in Canterbury. This year she has completed two studies about the way in which wine complexity is perceived and assessed by wine professionals and consumers. Each group arrived at their conclusions via different conceptual routes. Parr’s research suggests that consumers do not give significant weight to back label information and are motivated to purchase wine because of what it will taste like and whether it will be an enjoyable experience.

Parr says that wine is not only capable of providing us with great pleasure but can evoke memories and make us think.

Much of this relates to a wine’s aroma, with research demonstrating clearly the links between smell, emotion, and memory. Her studies on complexity are in collaboration with the University of Paris VIII and the University of Burgundy in France.

GALLIANO.COM

| Please enjoy Galliano responsibly.

GALLIANO

INDUSTRY NEWS

Kiwi finalist in Don New Plymouth bartender Tessa Kerslake has been announced as the New Zealand finalist in the international Don of Tequila competition

JOSE CUERVO has named Tessa Kerslake from Our Place in New Plymouth as New Zealand’s national winner in the Don of Tequila competition.

This means that Kerslake will now join 18 other bartenders from around the world in the grand final event at La Rojena, Mexico.

In the first challenge of its kind, she will compete for the chance to be named the next Don of Tequila. The prize for the winner of the global competition is a trip to Mexico, where the winner will harvest and bottle their own crop of agave on the Jose Cuervo Tequila estate.

Kerslake made it to the final with her tequila cocktail, Vito; a citrus based cocktail made with Jose Cuervo Silver.

“We saw some fantastic bartenders compete in this competition, but Tessa showed

the true grit, personality and creativity that encompasses what it means to be a don. Becoming a Don of Tequila is the ultimate accolade that must go to the best so it will be exciting to see how Tessa performs during what will be a tough national final,” says brand manager of Jose Cuervo, Hannah Webb.

The competition is one aspect of a longterm education platform, the heart of which is the Dons’ website, which Webb describes as being the definitive resource for all things Jose Cuervo.

“The site brings to life the stories of the current Dons of Tequila and features a

Tessa Kerslake

selection of drinks recipes fit for a Don, crafted and demonstrated by head barmen from La Rojeña.”

The Dons of Tequila competition ran in France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Greece, UAE, Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Puerto Rico, Argentina, Chile, Singapore, Philippines, New Zealand, Korea, Japan and Cyprus. donsoftequila.com

INDUSTRY NEWS

News briefs Master of Wine judges in Bay Steve Smith, Master of Wine, is to judge at the 2015 Hawke’s Bay A & P Bayleys Wine Awards this year. He has judged at the competition before but not for a decade; “I’m thrilled to be joining a judging team again for an exceptional year on the back of three outstanding Hawke’s Bay vintages,” says Smith, who will judge alongside winemakers Rod McDonald (chair of the show), Rod Easthope and Warren Gibson. The awards will be announced on 20 October at the Waikoko Gardens at Showgrounds Hawke’s Bay.

New Nourish chef Award winning chef and My Kitchen Rules judge, Gareth Stewart, has been appointed as the new executive chef for The Nourish Group’s nine eateries. These include Euro and Fish on Auckland’s Princes Wharf, Shed 5 and Pravda in Wellington, Bistro Lago in Taupo, Jervois Steak House in Auckland and Queenstown and the popular Crab Shack in Auckland and Wellington. The UK born chef joins Nourish Group after almost eight years as executive chef at Soul Bar & Bistro, which won Best Casual Dining at the 2009 and 2010 Cuisine Restaurant of the Year Awards.

Lori Wallace

Stella Artois finals reward Kiwi

A young Mission Bay bartender gained second place when battling her counterparts from over 30 countries in London this year THIS YEAR’S winner of the international Stella Artois Draught Masters came from Belgium; home of the beer, but a young Kiwi put her finest foot forward at the London competition.

Lori Wallace, who works at De Fontein in Mission Bay, Auckland, earned second place at the finals of the Stella Artois World Draught Masters, which took place in London in late June.

Wallace competed against bartenders from 30 countries around the world. The competition rules are based around the Stella Artois 9-step pouring ritual, which is aimed at enabling bartenders to refine their pouring skills and customise the serving of one of the world’s best known beer brands.

Organic coastlines PHOENIX ORGANICS has partnered with Sustainable Coastlines again this year to help clean up New Zealand waterways in what is described as The Love Project.

It launched in 2014 with the aim of empowering communities to clean up their local waterways through riparian planting days across the country.

Sam Judd from Sustainable Coastlines (pictured) has spearheaded the project while the makers of Phoenix Organics have also contributed.

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 21

INDUSTRY NEWS

Second wine and food week The W&F Wine and Food Celebration runs in September in downtown Auckland and is open to all THE NEW Zealand School of Food and Wine is the venue for an event that is becoming an annual fixture on the culinary and vinous calendar, the W&F Wine and Food Celebration, running from Monday 13 to 15 September.

This year’s event will see wines from many top New Zealand wineries presented by Master of Wine Bob Campbell, who will do a walkabout tour of the event, which will also showcase food and produce from local Auckland artisan producers. There will be hands-on cooking workshops, free cooking demonstrations, master-classes and a series of Italian classes led

by Drinksbiz editor Joelle Thomson.

The three-day celebration will also see the return of the New Zealand Sommelier of the Year, Junior Sommelier of the Year and Young New Zealand Wine Professional of the Year competitions, as well as a special Food and Wine Dynamics experience with chef and wine

educator, Celia Hay. The New Zealand Wine Room will be the venue for Master of Wine Bob Campbell’s ‘walkabouts’ during the wine tasting sessions and for the regional tasting of Italian wines by Joelle Thomson.

There will be hands-on cooking workshops, free cooking demonstrations, masterclasses and a series of Italian wine classes.

Foodies will not be left wanting as local Auckland artisan food producers will showcase their wares along with free cooking demonstrations with a “How to” theme. Chef Stefan Loetscher will teach how to smoke a fish as well how to make sourdough breads. Chefs Philippe Meyer and Alfredo Icedo Romero will also highlight their innovative styles of food. And cof-

fee lovers will be able to discover coffee cupping and single origin coffees from around the world.

“The climax of the event will be the Single Origin Master-class,” says Celia Hay, founder of the New Zealand School of Food and Wine.

“There is a huge interest in coffee in NZ and this one day programme gives people the chance to taste and learn about coffees that can be traced to their region with authentic tastes of a single origin.

Just like wine, coffee tasting, or cupping as it is known in the trade, is a whole new stimulating subject.”

The Wine and Food New Zealand Celebration runs from September 13 to 15 at the New Zealand School of Food and Wine in Auckland’s Customs St West, Viaduct. The public can purchase tickets for $35 to wine and food tastings in the New Zealand Wine Room.

All events are online at event.foodandwine.co.nz

Epic’s new Sarah brew WHEN INDEPENDENT brewers Luke Nicholas (Epic Brewing Company) and Simon Nicholas (Hop Federation) discovered last year that both of their family trees ended in the 1700s with a person called Sarah Nicholas, they decided to do something about it.

That something was to create a beer that tied their pasts with their present. And since the late Sarah Nicholas had lived at a time when the beer style IPA was popular, an IPA was the obvious thing to do.

Meet ‘Sarah’; New Zealand’s newest IPA, which has been brewed under the new label “House of Nicholas”.

Sarah IPA was first brewed at Hop Federation brewery in Riwaka from both New Zealand and 22 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

United Kingdom-grown malt and hops. The hop varieties are New Zealand Motueka, New Zealand Goldings and United Kingdom Fuggles.

The first batch of Sarah IPA was a fresh hopped beer, which was sold at Hopstock in Wellington in April. Once it had been well received, a decision was made to brew another much larger batch (using dried hops) and this time bottled so it could be sold nationwide (with a little being exported to Australia).

Now that this second batch has been brewed there have been discussions of other possible beers being released such as “St Nicholas” for Christmas.

Sarah IPA from the House of Nicholas is now available. epicbeer.com

HOOKMVNEDNEWDB PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRISTOPHER DAVID THOMPSON

Positively Refreshed

New design, all new vintages – available now

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

www.marisco.co.nz

INDUSTRY NEWS

Nelson to host wine awards

News briefs Beer into biofuel DB BREWERIES are attempting to produce the country’s first ever commercially viable biofuel from the byproducts of brewing beer. DB Export Brewtroleum will be made using ethanol derived from beer by-product, which will be mixed with normal petroleum to create Brewtroleum. Research and testing by DB Export and independent experts found that ethanol could be stripped from the yeast slurry of the brewing process and distilled to produce high-grade bioethanol; created by blending 10% ethanol and 90% premium 98 octane petrol.

Bioethanol created from a by-product of dairy production is already available in select outlets around New Zealand and the world, and is proven to be more environmentally friendly than normal petrol.

© Jonathan Reid flickr.com

Waipara wine’s global win

Trafalgar Street, Nelson

IT TOPS the list of sunshine hours and is at the northern tip of the South Island but Nelson frequently falls off the wine visitor’s radar, which is why the region’s winemakers will be thrilled to host this year’s Air New Zealand Wine Awards dinner.

The annual black tie dinner will be held on Saturday 28 November at Saxton Stadium. It attracts many of this country’s top winemakers and industry figures to celebrate the winning wines in this industry-run wine competition.

Up to 18 other trophies are awarded each year, including the O-I New Zealand Reserve Wine of the Show trophy, Label and Litho Champion Sauvignon Blanc trophy, and JF Hillebrand Champion Pinot Noir trophy. The evening culminates with the top prize of the competition, the Air New Zealand 24 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Champion Wine of the Show Trophy.

The competition is owned and organised by New Zealand Winegrowers; the national organisation for the country’s 1,600 grape growers and winemakers.

Entries for the 2015 competition open to New Zealand wineries on 10 August.

“We are delighted this year’s Air New Zealand Wine Awards will be held in Nelson. Air New Zealand worked closely with New Zealand Winegrowers, Nelson Tasman Tourism and Nelson Airport to secure this event for the region. Each year the awards attract close to 600 winemakers, international media and other guests so we expect this year’s event will benefit Nelson significantly from a tourism perspective,” says Air New Zealand regional affairs manager government & industry affairs Ian Collier.

Find out more at airnzwineawards.co.nz

THE MAKERS of 2013 Waipara West Pinot Noir 2013 have won the regional trophy for Waipara Pinot Noir as well the trophy for the top New Zealand Pinot Noir at the 2015 International Wine Challenge in London. The IWC is widely regarded as the world’s most important wine competition and serves to benchmark wines from different countries that are assessed and judged alongside each other. “We are immensely proud to continue to carry the flag for our small premium winegrowing region, as well as helping maintain the enviable reputation New Zealand Pinot Noir has developed over the past three decades,” says Vic Tutton, of Waipara West Wines and The Boneline wines.

Palliser changing of the guard PALLISER ESTATE Wines of Martinborough has named Pip Goodwin as its new CEO when managing director Richard Riddiford retires this year after 25 years at the helm. Goodwin is currently the associate winemaker and marketing manager at Palliser and will take up the new role in September; she has a Bachelor of Commerce and Graduate Diploma from the University of Otago and 10 years’ experience as an accountant and management consultant both in New Zealand and overseas. She completed a Postgraduate Diploma of Oenology and Viticulture at Lincoln University in 2004.

INDUSTRY NEWS

The booze traveller, Jack Maxwell, meets some sumo drinking buddies.

Screen time drinks traveller HE IS a globe trotting cocktail connoisseur and now he appears in our own homes on the new small screen programme, Booze Traveler Series 1.

Meet Jack Maxwell. He has travelled around the world one drink at a time in his quest to find the best tasting liquids for the new show. Maxwell comes from south Boston where the concept of bars where ‘everybody knows your name’ all began.

His philosophy is that good local bars serve as much as neighbourhood living rooms as they do watering holes; hosting everything

from family dinners to wedding receptions.

The new television series, Booze Traveler, follows his travels to a vast range of places where customs and cultures around drinks vary widely; from the volcanic beer of Iceland to the traditional Peruvian beverage Masato (also known as spit beer).

It’s a tough job, but thanks to Maxwell, we can watch him do it for us.

News briefs A good plan

Celebrating new start

DB BREWERIES published its inaugural sustainability report this year, which highlights the company’s progress in six sustainability focused areas. Leading the way to make drinking in moderation aspirational remains at the top of DB’s sustainability agenda, says DB Breweries managing director Andy Routley. In 2014, the company activated a responsible consumption initiative with New Zealand Rugby League, sponsoring the Kiwis with the industry’s Cheers! brand during the Four Nations tournament and aligned with the Health Promotion Agency’s (HPA) Not Beersies campaign, plumbing bars across the North Island with Not Beersies branded (water) taps. “For many, sustainability has become a catch cry or a marketing exercise. At DB sustainability is both a strategic priority and a business imperative. It’s built into the performance objectives of our leadership and senior management teams and shapes how we do business from barley to bar,” says Routley.

THIS YEAR is the 35th vintage for one of Martinborough’s oldest wineries; Ata Rangi, whose founder Clive Paton and current winemaker, Helen Masters, have been on a nationwide tasting roadshow.

“It’s funny that after all this time, you might expect us to say we see patterns from one vintage to the next, but no two years have ever been the same,” Paton said, at the Auckland tasting of 2013 Ata Rangi Pinot Noirs – the jewel in the winery’s crown. “That said, the 2013 vintage is definitely shaping up to be what we see as our very best, in terms of the quality of grapes that came in and the fact that we didn’t need to do very much with them, except allow the wine to shine,” said Masters, of the 2013 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir and the winery’s top shelf blended red, the 2013 Ata Rangi Celebre. The name Ata Rangi means ‘new beginning’. atarangi.co.nz

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 25

Why you should be part of the Glass Packaging Forum What does it do?

Ensures government recognition of glass packaging as an environmentally acceptable product through our voluntary Glass Product Stewardship Scheme Promotes an increase in glass recycling Works with councils to address waste glass issues Provides education to encourage glass recycling Provides assistance for infrastructure to improve glass collection systems.

Glass industry body continues to protect your business – how?

Over the last ten years, the development of the Glass Packaging Forum and the Government’s accreditation of its Product Stewardship Scheme, has ensured that brands using glass packaging, are to a significant degree, protected from restrictive environmental legislation.

GLASS HAS now reached a new high recovery rate of 72.6% through voluntary programmes, equal to the EU average which is heavily influenced by mandatory regulations. However we are still short of the best international recycling rates and it is essential that the New Zealand rate continues to improve. In order to achieve further measurable gains wider support is required from industry to enhance the efforts of those companies which have for the last ten years provided the resources necessary to reach the current recovery figure.

The glass packaged goods industry in New Zealand can only continue to operate free from legislation as long as it can demonstrate that its voluntary product stewardship scheme is delivering results that are comparable with those countries with legislation.

To ensure that the Government recognises the Glass Packaging Forum’s mandate to speak for those enterprises using glass bottles and jars, there is a need to not only increase recycling but also increase membership. Membership costs are directly related to tonnages of glass sold into the NZ market place.

It is also appropriate that more companies participate in support of those who have to date successfully ensured a business platform without environmental legislation.

Please seriously consider giving your support to the Glass Packaging Forum.

John Webber General Manager john@glassforum.org.nz glassforum.org.nz

Why you should join?

Every business in the glass packaged industry can contribute to a best cost solution for the recovery and recycling of waste glass Wider participation across the industry decreases the risk of legislation Growing consumer expectation of sound environmental practice by the commercial sector

For more info

Get in touch with John Webber john@glassforum.org.nz

News briefs Small beautiful vintage

Bottled poetry

THE 2015 New Zealand grape harvest is complete, with both grape growers and winemakers across the country reporting that they are pleased with the quality and flavours of the 2015 wines. A warm and relatively dry summer has ensured high quality but the size of the 2015 vintage was 326,000 tonnes; a drop of 27% on the record breakingly large 2014 vintage.

Despite the excellent summer, the cool spring weather contributed to the marked reduction in the crop at the start of the season.

NEW ZEALAND poet Sam Hunt has joined forces with La Cantina Wines to launch a new range of wines called Sam Hunt Wines. Each wine features poetry by Hunt, who says that while poems printed in books often die from neglect, a poem told or sung - or printed on a wine label, say - stands a much greater chance of life. The range includes a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, a Gisborne Pinot Gris and a Chardonnay; a Central Otago Pinot Noir and a Hawke’s Bay Merlot Malbec.

The RRPs range from $21.95 to $24.95 and the wines are available for purchase online at lacantina.co.nz

Picone picked for top job

The new chief winemaker at Villa Maria has nearly two decades’ experience at the winery NICK PICONE is the new Villa Maria Group chief winemaker after 18 years with the winery, which is New Zealand’s largest family owned wine company.

The position includes all of Villa Maria Group’s winemaking for the Villa Maria, Vidal Estate, Esk Valley, Te Awa Collection, Thornbury, Riverstone and Wise Owl brands.

“He’s an extremely talented winemaker with an exceptional palate and has demonstrated a natural ability with wine right from the start of his career. Fostering talent in our industry is something I’m passionate about and I’m proud to have seen Nick develop his skills over the years working in all of our winemaking regions,” says CEO Sir George Fistonich.

“Throughout our 54 year history my focus has always been on creating the highest quality wines and we’ve achieved this

NEW ZEALAND

through selection of the best vineyard sites, but also seeking out the very best people and Nick is without a doubt one of the New Zealand wine industry’s shining stars.”

Picone was raised in Hawkes Bay where his first job in winemaking was at the Villa Maria Group’s boutique winery, Esk Valley Estate, north of Napier.

From there he moved to Marlborough and then later to Auckland to oversee Villa Maria’s Auckland, Hawkes Bay and Gisborne winemaking.

In 2006 he spent time working for Villa Maria’s international distributor Hatch Mansfield in the United Kingdom, followed by a vintage at GD Vajra in Barolo, Italy. He has also completed two vintages at DeLoach vineyards in California, in the United States.

He was listed by Drinks Business UK in 2014 as one of an international selection of 30 winemakers under 40 to watch.

WINE & FOOD CELEBRATION 13 - 15 September 2015

Saint Clair

Calling all food and wine-lovers!

Sauvignon Blanc Bright Light

New Zealand Wine Room On 13 & 14 September, join us to meet the owners and winemakers of outstanding New Zealand wines from leading estates.

Your ticket includes the cost of ALL wine tastings.

A lighter way to enjoy the intensity and flavours of Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Sauvignon Blanc.

Refreshing and mouth watering with flavours of gooseberry, passionfruit and blackcurrant

Italian Wine Tasting Learn about Italy’s distinctive local grape varieties that are taking NZ by storm. Join Joelle Thomson for an Italian tasting Masterclass.

Artisan Food Producers showcase On Sunday 13 September, come along to sample some mouthwatering foods from our exciting line up of local Auckland artisan producers.

New Zealand Sommelier of the Year Guided by Master Sommelier Cameron Douglas, wine professionals will compete to win a trip to Paris to visit Champagne Louis Roederer.

Lighter in alcohol and lighter in calories*

Junior Sommelier Win a trip to Misha’s Vineyard, Central Otago and a helicopter tour around the key winegrowing regions.

9.5% alcohol * Lighter in comparison to the standard

Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Sauvignon Blanc

Young Wine Professional Work in wine sales? Win a trip to Herzog Estate Harvest Weekend.

Silver Medal - Spiegelau International Wine Competition 2015 Find out more & buy tickets online

event.foodandwine.co.nz

Level 3, 104 Customs Street West, Viaduct.

P: 09 377 7961 | E: admin@foodandwine.co.nz

www.saintclair.co.nz

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Brave new Pinot Noir plantings

Martinborough winery Murdoch James Estate is removing a quarter of its total vineyard area and replacing it all with Pinot Noir ROGER FRASER describes the removal of 25,000 vines as ‘not for the faint hearted’ and at a cost of over $300,000, he may be right, but it’s not about quantity of vines, it is about type.

The vines that he is removing are all Sauvignon Blanc and they will all be replaced with Pinot Noir. This will consolidate the Martinborough region’s position as a leading Pinot Noir producer, says Fraser, who founded Murdoch James Estate as a modest three hectares of vineyard area in 1986.

It has since grown to over 40 hectares of planted vineyard area, now devoted mainly to Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier and Syrah. Murdoch James was the first winery to plant Syrah in Martinborough and the Fraser family intends to extend planting of this variety in the future.

“This replanting decision is not for the faint hearted. Not only is there a significant

Roger Fraser

cost involved; we also had to accept it can take up to five years for the new vines to return a full crop,” says Fraser, whose son, Carl, is the winemaker.

The decision was taken after the winery acquired two new vineyards, one of which had large Sauvignon Blanc plantings. The future of the Sauvignon Blanc plantings was rapidly called into question when the company was unable to meet export demand for its Pinot Noir.

“Add the fact that the consumer will pay a premium for quality Pinot Noir, but not for Sauvignon Blanc, and it made the decision a no-brainer,” Fraser said.

The new Pinot Noir plantings will include

the established Abel clone and the recently identified clone 943 of Pinot Noir. Abel is a key ingredient in some of the most highly noted Martinborough wines, while clone 943 has been described as the next big step forward for Pinot Noir by Dr Raymond Bernard; the man known in Burgundy as the ‘father of Clonal selection’.

“This decision was made on top of a newly completed winery, and a huge investment in quality-focused processing improvements, so while the costs are huge, it is definitely the correct call to make, and we get an opportunity to capitalise on recent thinking about the best clones of Pinot Noir for our conditions,” says winemaker Carl Fraser.

Wild yeasts make great wine STONELEIGH WILD Valley is a new range of wines from one of Marlborough’s largest producers, which was launched in August this year.

“This new range is all about celebrating the lifted, fruitforward flavours that are characteristic of wines made on our sunstone studded vineyards, then overlays this with the added texture, palateweight and flavour complexity that comes with the use of wild yeasts that are native to our vineyard eco-system,” says Stoneleigh winemaker Jamie Marfell.

The name implies wild

yeast fermentations for these wines, which is a technique that Marfell says enabled him to employ a ‘minimal invention’ winemaking philosophy because rather than adding commercial yeasts to the ferments, he was able to use indigenous yeasts that are naturally present in Stoneleigh’s vineyards in Rapaura.

“While the winemaking intervention for this new range may be minimal, the care and dedication that goes into the wines is anything but. We used naturally-occurring micro-flora to ferment the fruit, which gives the resulting wines

the purest expression of our terroir. It’s like capturing the essence of our Marlborough vineyards in a bottle,” Marfell says.

The first releases of the new Stoneleigh Wild Valley wines include a fruit forward, citrus-flavour driven 2015 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, which has lifted grapefruit and nectarine flavours, and a Wild Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir from 2014, which is driven by red berry flavours with a touch of toasty savoury flavour too.

Stoneleigh Wild Valley wines are available from early August, RRP $18.99.

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 29

EuroVintage takes on Gibbston Valley Wines

Distributed by : Federal Merchants & Co. Ph: 0800 846 824 E: info@federalmerchants.co.nz W: federalmerchants.co.nz

EUROVINTAGE TAKES over the distribution reins this month (August) for one of Central Otago’s best known, largest and oldest wineries, Gibbston Valley, which is based in the Kawarau Gorge between Queenstown and Cromwell.

The winery is also one of the most diverse in terms of its production and its ability to deliver a range of large volume wines. This includes large quantities of Pinot Noirs and small volume curiosities, including Pinots (Noir and Gris) from different vineyards in sub-regional areas of Central Otago, as well as high quality Rieslings from bone dry to luscious.

The move to an independent, New Zealand owned and operated distributor reflects the strong growth in quality (and quantity) in Otago, says Gibbston Valley winemaker Christopher Keys.

“It’s a really exciting time for the wine production here with our vineyards getting older; this means that people are picking their grapes earlier each year, resulting in wines with more structure, which we are seeing right now with a string of exceptional recent vintages, such as 2014,” says Keys.

He is happy to have moved the distribution from the large corporate, Pernod Ricard, which he says has done a great job; “We have had a wonderful relationship with all of their staff but we are a smaller company than they are and it is time to really refocus our message.”

That message is one of quality and diversification. Over the last eight years, Keys has grown and diversified the production at Gibbston Valley winery so that the company now makes seven different Pinot Noirs, three (outstandingly high quality) Rieslings and three Pinot Gris, among their other wines.

This gives voice to many different wines that Key says facilitated the need for a distributor with the platform to sell all of these wines in off-premise as well as on-premise.

“This means that EuroVintage will have our full range of single vineyard wines from our Gibbston Valley range (Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Rose and a Late Harvest wine) to the Gold River range (Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris) and our Reserve Pinot Noir. Many of these wines are on a limited allocation, which requires a strong focus on hand selling them, but it also gives Gibbston Valley Wines a range of interesting strings to its portfolio.

“It’s really cool for us to have limited supplies of some wines and we’re dead set on getting into the market with them. Our smaller volume wines offer a rarity value, which is a genuine reflection of the fact that we focus on high quality, diverse styles as well as some larger volumes,” says Keys.

Moa flies high in Rio A new report shows that global beer sales and taste preferences are evolving and changing, with strong growth for Moa in Brazil GLOBAL BEER consumption is growing in non traditional markets, such as Brazil and China, which accounts for Moa Brewing Company’s current success in Brazil.

The company has shipped four containers of beer to Brazil already this year and expects this growth to continue.

The growth of beer consumption in markets such as Brazil is shown in a new report released by researchers Frost & Sullivan for New Zealand Trade & Enterprise. This report shows that beer consumption volumes are decreasing overall in North America, Europe, Australia and New Zealand but increasing in the craft beer segment of these same markets.

In countries such as Brazil and China, which have rising middle class population, craft beer is also catching on. The report forecasts that New Zealand craft beer exports could increase at up to 300 per cent in the next decade, making it a significant earner for this country, says Geoff Ross, Moa Brewing Company’s CEO. Ross says that Moa is the only beer company listed on the New Zealand stock exchange (NZX: MOA), it is the largest New Zealand owned beer brand and he believes it to be the largest exporter.

The growth of the Moa product in Brazil is in partnership with Brazilian Marconi Albuquergue and his company Oceania Group.

Albuquergue says that the concept of Moa’s Breakfast Beer was the eye and palate catcher in many party areas of Rio. The breakfast brew is fermented at high temperatures, which can deaccentuate fruit flavours, but this beer has a Marlborough-grown cherry added in the fermentation process and it finishes with an alcohol content of 5.5%.

“It was in New Zealand that I discovered Moa. On my return to Brazil, I was blown away with the move toward craft beer. Brazil has a fascination with New Zealand, with so few New Zealand brands in Brazil. I saw the opportunity — and specifically with Moa given craft is, like other countries, performing impressively here,” he says.

“High end supermarkets Zona Sul and Super Prix chains are driving sales and thirst, while hot bar spots Escondido Pub Copacabana and Delirium Cafe Ipanema in the famous neighbourhoods of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon boast the brew on tap.”

The Moa Brewing Company will be the exclusive beer sponsor of the New Zealand Olympic team and will be served at New Zealand Club in the Sheraton Hotel close to the beach in Rio.

MURDOCH JAMES BLUE ROCK SYRAH Gold - INTERNATIONAL WINE CHALLENGE 2014 **** GOURMET TRAVELLER - WINE 2014 95 Points – BOB CAMPBELL MW 2014 Silver – IWSC 2014 92+ points - ROBERT PARKER 2013

MURDOCH JAMES BLUE ROCK PINOT NOIR Pure Gold - AIR NEW ZEALAND WINE AWARDS 2014 92+ Points - ROBERT PARKER 2014 95 Points – BOB CAMPBELL MW 2014 Gold – CHINA WINE AND SPIRIT AWARDS 2013 Gold - AUSTRALIAN SMALL WINEMAKER'S SHOW 2012 Gold - NZ INTERNATIONAL WINE SHOW 2012

MURDOCH JAMES ESTATE PINOT NOIR 90 Points – WINE SPECTATOR ‘Smart Buys’ 2014 Gold - WINE & SPIRIT ASIA AWARDS 2014 Gold - CHINA WINE & SPIRITS AWARDS 2013

MURDOCH JAMES ESTATE PINOT ROSÉ Champion Trophy - ROYAL EASTER SHOW 2015 PROUD TO BE

M A RT I N B O RO U G H

INDUSTRY NEWS

Thirsty for new business?

THE OWNERS of the Thirsty Liquor branded chain of liquor stores certainly have been busy. This year they have acquired nearly 20 new shops, growing their tally of stores to a new total of over 85 stores nationwide, says Thirsty Liquor co-owner Renee Patel.

Thirsty Liquor purchased the naming rights to the Black Bull Liquor brand in June of this year.

The acquisition added a dozen new stores to the group.

“This gives us better buying power and a strong representation in the Bay of Plenty and Hawkes Bay region,” says Patel.

“We have also added a full time representative on the road now Bob Govan who is actively promoting the Thirsty Liquor and Black Bull Liquor brands nationwide.

The company is in growth phase and we look forward to capitalising on any new opportunities and continuing to expand.”

Thirsty Liquor Group Ltd will remain the parent company to the Black Bull Liquor brand and other groups that want to join the winning team. Watch this space.

Crown Range acquires French icon A NEW Zealand wine company is to work with French winemaker Patrick Leon, who was born and raised in Bordeaux and was both the winemaker and managing director for Chateau Mouton Rothschild for over 20 years.

The partnership came about when Crown Range Cellar director, Jing Song, travelled to France this year and spent time at Chateau de Pennautier. She has since acquired Leon’s skills specifically for a Signature Wine Collection for Crown Range Cellar New Zealand for the upcoming 2016 vintage.

“Our aim is to select and bring back the wines that are suitable for our palates,’ says Jing.

“When people talk about French wine. They automatically think of Bordeaux & Burgundy or Chamgagne. There are so many great boutique and local wines in the South of Fracne that are yet to be discovered by us. Their wines are so drinkable over a meal, it doesn’t need to be cellared for decades, so there is a fit in wine philosophy between the two businesses.”

Chateau de Pennautier was constructed in 1620 by an Ancestor of Nicolas de Logeril and it has been run since 1987 by the 10th generation of winegrowers, Nicolas and Miren de Lorgeril, direct descendants of the first Marquis de Pennautier.

News brief Italy’s fascinating grapes ITALIAN BASED wine writer Ian D’Agata’s new book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, has been shortlisted for the 2015 Louis Roederer Wine Writer’s Awards in the United Kingdom. The book is the most comprehensive guide yet on Italian wine grapes, which D’Agata has spent over 13 years researching. This included walking the vineyards, talking with the winemakers and researching independently, as well as living and breathing these wines, says the Canadian-born D’Agata. As Master of Wine Michael Palij says, D’Agata writes of his love affair with many forgotten (as well as mainstream) Italian grape varieties as the damsels in distress of the vinous world. Not only is this book fascinating and well researched, it is an easy, stimulating and hard to put down read. It now takes pride of place on my bedside reading pile.

JOELLE THOMSON 32 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

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WINE CATEGORY REPORT

Welcome new wave whites

Take one cool maritime climate, 75% white grapes and label the contents ‘New Zealand’; Editor Joelle Thomson selects this bunch of high quality, experimental whites bearing unusual names such as Albariño, Arneis, Chenin Blanc (the odd Pinot Gris) and the new wave Fumé Blancs

36 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

CATEGORY REPORT W INE

White lights

POPULAR WHITE PINOT

These new releases come from the top of the South Island; Nelson and Marlborough. There is a star wine from Neudorf and an interesting trio of Gris made by one of this country’s star Sauvignon Blanc producers, Simon Waghorn, who is also a dab hand at highlighting regional differences in Marlborough’s coastal and inland vineyard areas.

2013 Astrolabe Valleys Kekerengu Coast Pinot Gris RRP $25

The Kekerengu Valley is a cool area in Marlborough, despite which, it is often the first place in the region where the vines experience budburst each year, says winemaker Simon Waghorn.

Because this area is cool, the vines here experience a long ripening season, developing a broad and complex range of flavours as they ripen – this wine highlights that with its aromas of citrus, apples, pear fresh green herbs; it is medium sweet in style.

The retained residual sugar provides balance to this 13% alcohol white; enabling a slightly lower alcohol level than if all the grape sugars had been fermented to dryness.

CARO’S

2014 Astrolabe Marlborough RRP $21 Pinot Gris This Pinot Gris is made from grapes grown in various sub-regions of Marlborough and it tastes of fresh citrus fruit (such as lemon, limes and grapefruit); it has a crisp freshness which derives from the green flavours

(which imply slightly earlier harvesting). I like its light bodied style and little kick of acid at the end of the palate, which finishes on a dry flavour.

CARO’S

2009 Astrolabe The Rocks RRP $32 Pinot Gris Now we’re talking about a flavoursome old ‘Gris’; this wine is six years old and hanging in there with its intense floral aromas and spicy flavours of ginger and hot buttered toast; it is full bodied with medium intensity of taste, relatively high alcohol at 14.5% ABV but it also has the complexity of taste to carry that.

CARO’S

2014 Neudorf Moutere Nelson RRP $32 Pinot Gris This is the best New Zealand Pinot Gris that I have tasted this year, to date; it is complex and interesting in flavour from its roasted white nut aromas to its peachy but dry styled palate. The wine is made with grapes grown in the clay soils of the Moutere Hills in Nelson; a relatively small vineyard area in numerical terms, but an extremely important one when it comes to high quality wine production. This wine is also relatively highly priced for Pinot Gris, but the Neudorf Moutere Pinot Gris’ concentration of flavour and crispness sets a high standard for this popular wine style, marking out its territory as a great wine for restaurants to serve as a special glass-pour or as a bottle.

NEW ZEALAND’S white wines are hot, especially if they come from Gisborne, which is going through a metamorphosis right now.

Size no longer counts as the jewel in the Gisborne wine crown; a region that is moving away from bulk wine production towards innovation as its winemakers try their hands at many of the world’s least known white wines, such as Albariño, Arneis, Grüner Veltliner, Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino. These wines are made from wine grape varieties of the same name, and Gisborne is their gateway into the country because New Zealand’s largest vine nursery is based there; Riversun.

These unusual sounding grapes come from France and arrive here via the Ministry for Primary Industries.

They are then sent to Riversun’s managing director Geoff Thorpe, who trials them, builds up supplies of those that have a demand, then distributes them throughout the country.

His viticultural standards are exacting, which is why he has now signed a 25 year contract with ENTAV-INRA in France; a vine nursery that verifies the authenticity and disease-free status of all the different grape varieties that they supply; including mainstream vine supplies, such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as lesser known ones.

This has raised the bar of innovation, both in terms of the scope of different grapes arriving in New Zealand, and also in terms of their health – so that vine disease is not imported into this country.

Gisborne is not the only region where innovation is alive and thriving in New Zealand’s wine scene right now, as this story shows.

I have selected wines here from all over the country, which are made from grape varieties that are still considered relative newcomers (Pinot Gris, for instance, barely registered in this country 12 years ago) and others that are known, but remain under the radar – enter Chenin Blanc.

EUROVINTAGE

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 37

WINE CATEGORY REPORT

CHEEKY CHENIN BLANC 2014 Mt Difficulty Chenin Blanc RRP $30 Central Otago Long Gully, Bannockburn and Matt Dicey are a winning combo that makes this third vintage of Chenin Blanc rock; just like the hillsides surrounding the area in which it is made. It is intensely concentrated with flavours of zesty, mouthwatering citrus (think: caramelised lemons and limes); it is medium dry in style with crisp vibrantly refreshing acidity and length of flavour that continues long after the last drop has been consumed.

MT DIFFICULTY WINES

2014 Black Estate Chenin Blanc RRP $30, 375ml bottle

This debut Chenin Blanc comes from a relatively small, experimental part of the vineyard at Black Estate in Omihi, North Canterbury; it is medium sweet in style but its high acidity provides plenty of balance for the touch of juicy fruit flavours that come through. A period of pre-bottle maturation on yeast lees (after fermentation) adds structure and weight to this wine, which is outstanding in taste, quality and potential for more. Bring it on.

BLACK ESTATE

OAK INFLUENCED SAUVIGNONS THAT SHINE 2013 Churton Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

RRP $47

This wine is labelled ‘best end’ and it easily lives up to that moniker with its full bodied, lemony fresh richness, which comes through both in aroma and on the palate; it has aromatic green fruit and fresh herb flavours, which are contrasted and comple-

38 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

The Neudorf Moutere Pinot Gris’ concentration of flavour and crispness set a high standard for this popular wine style, marking out its territory as a great wine for restaurants to serve as a special glass-pour or as a bottle. mented by a creaminess that gives this wine both texture and a full, flavoursome, savoury styled taste. High priced? Yes. But this one is worth every single cent.

An absolute stunner.

to a balanced, beautiful style of top shelf Sauvignon, thanks to oak barrel influence in this outstanding wine.

MINERAL WINES

VIBRANT VIOGNIER

2013 Clearview Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

RRP $25

For a wine that costs $25, this Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc delivers an extremely powerful punch, both in terms of its complex range of flavours (green fruit and citrus) and its full bodied, textural, oily richness in the mouth; both shine a fresh new light on the well known Sauvignon Blanc theme. It is dry and crisp too, which balances all those extra, barrel-derived flavoursome bells and whistles. While Hawke’s Bay is not the usual New Zealand wine region that is associated with great Sauvignon Blancs, the region is home to many, including this newly released white made from grapes grown in the stony soils of the Clearview vineyard at Te Awanga on the coast, just south of Napier.

CLEARVIEW OR VINTNERS NZ

FAIRBOURNE ESTATE

2014 Spade Oak Vigneron Viognier Gisborne

RRP $32

Gisborne winemaker Steve Voysey allows the full bodied, peachy richness of Viognier grapes to shine in this big, fleshy, lively white; it has moderate acidity but its freshness comes from the vibrant stone fruit flavours and dry style.

VINTNERS NZ

AWESOME ALBARIÑO 2013 Hihi Albariño

RRP $20

Hihi Wines in Gisborne is part of the new wave white brigade in this far flung wine region; Albariño is its leading white, as this refreshing wine shows with its pronounced fresh lemon, floral and green olive flavours, its medium body and its lively, long finish.

HIHI WINES

2014 Fairbourne Marlborough RRP $35 Sauvignon Blanc Smooth, fresh, bone dry with great textural qualities and soft, supple fruit flavours of ripe stonefruit, such as nectarine and peach; this is an outstanding Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It is full flavoured and full bodied, with richness and smoothness both driving its pronounced zesty acidity

2014 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Albariño

RRP $24

Villa Maria is the largest family owned New Zealand winery but also one of this country’s biggest wine innovators, thanks to the vision of its founder, Sir George Fistonich, who is a champion of experimentation

CATEGORY REPORT W INE

in wines. This fresh, floral, tropical fruit flavoured white reveals the tip of the Villa experimentation iceberg – and delivers an outstanding spring and summer drink.

newcomer to store shelves and a must-try with seafood (also delicious on its own).

VILLA MARIA

2013 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Arneis

2014 Aronui Single Vineyard Albariño

RRP $20-$22

This South Island Albariño has noticeably higher acidity, which accounts for the strong yeasty influence here (this suggests some lees ageing after fermentation, to soften the wine). The flavours here are of fresh white nuts and gentle hints of floral character, both of which add complexity to the light body of this lovely new white.

CO-PILOT DISTRIBUTORS

CLEARVIEW OR VINTNERS NZ

RRP $22

This outstanding white wine has a full body and complex flavours of fresh white nuts, oatmeal and bitter almonds; unusual in sound, but super refreshing in taste because this slightly astringent twist of flavour adds balance to the upfront fruity flavours. The Villa Maria Cellar Selection Arneis recommended retail is rarely adhered to, which makes it even more outstanding buying for a refreshing white.

VILLA MARIA

KONO BEVERAGES

DELICIOUSLY DRINKABLE...

ARNEIS 2013 Forrest Estate The Doctors’ Arneis

RRP $23

Meet one of Marlborough’s most innovative winemakers; Dr John Forrest, whose ongoing commitment to diversity shines through in this Arneis (pronounced ‘ar-nays’).

This dry white has intensely lemon zestflavoured white wine made from a grape variety that originally comes from the north west of Italy (Piemonte). This wine is a lovely

This story features wines made from grape varieties that are still considered relative newcomers (Pinot Gris, for instance, barely registered in this country 12 years ago) and others that are known, but remain under the radar – enter Chenin Blanc.

on the breezy coast at Te Awanga.This wine is full bodied with fresh grassy flavours, green fruit and a hint of ripe honey dew melon fruit.

2014 Villa Maria Private Bin Arneis RRP $12-$15

How do they do it? This might be budget buying, but wow; what value it delivers in the glass with its refreshing, bone dry flavours and medium body all over delivering with the same upfront fruit appeal on the nose, followed by nutty, citrusy flavours. The Villa Maria Private Bin Arneis delivers great character and is one of my top three white wines under $15 in New Zealand right now.

VILLA MARIA

SEMILLON STAR 2013 Clearview Estate Reserve RRP $25 Semillon This Hawke’s Bay Semillon is one of the few varietal Semillons (a varietal wine is one that is made solely from one grape variety) still made in New Zealand; the variety has now shrunk to just double digits in plantings nationwide (it was big, once upon a time – a long time ago now). New Zealand’s cool climate is well suited to this white grape, particularly when it is grown

Distributors Caro’s 0800 422 767 caros.co.nz Clearview Estate 06 875 0150 clearviewestate.co.nz Co-Pilot Distributors 09 412 9137 copilotdistributors.co.nz EuroVintage 0800 338 766 eurovintage.co.nz Hihi Wines 06 862 5077 hihi.co.nz Fairbourne Estate 021 839 463 fairbourne.co.nz Forrest Estate 03 572 9084 forrest.co.nz Kono Beverages 03 520 9230 aronuiwines.co.nz Mineral Wines 027 580 7325 mineralwine.co.nz Mt Difficulty 03 445 3445 mtdifficulty.co.nz Villa Maria 0800 505 656 villamaria.co.nz Vintners NZ 0800 687 9463 vintners.co.nz

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 39

HIGH 5

Top sparkling drops

High priced, high quality and highly sought after; the best bubbles deliver the X-factor, writes Editor Joelle Thomson

1

A treat

RRP $120-125

RRP $350

2007 Perrier-Joüet Belle Epoque

This champagne is a blend of the three key champagne grapes; Pinot Noir (50%), Pinot Meunier (25%, also a black grape) and Chardonnay (25%) and it also includes between 12 and 15% of reserve wines; these are champagnes made in other years, which have spent a longer time ageing and gaining flavour in the process. The inclusion of 75% black grapes (which are only lightly pressed in order to extract a minimum of colour) adds weight to the wine, increasing the mouthfeel, while enhancing toasty flavours. And the reserve wines in this blend add richness and complexity. It is a new release in New Zealand this year and while the available quantities are small, the quality more than makes up for that.

This top shelf champagne is available on pretty limited allocation and is highly sought after by lovers of the world’s best sparkling wines; it is made approximately every three years (although vintage champagnes – those made from a single year – are growing in number, due to improved viticulture and some warmer years). Like the Belle Epoque Rosé, it is made with grapes sourced from Grand Cru villages; Cramant, Avize and others; it is also a 50/50 white/red of Chardonnay with Pinots Noir and Meunier. Like all champagne, the skin contact is kept to an absolute minimum by gentle pressing immediately after the grapes are harvested, hence the pale lemon colour. It was aged for six years and is a very dry style with flavours of vibrant citrus, fresh bread and hints of buttery hot toast.

Pricey in pink

RRP $450

2006 Perrier-Joüet Belle Epoque Rosé

Perrier- Jouet Pernod Ricard 0800 655 550 pernod-ricard-nz.com Moet & Chandon Hennessey 0800 226 650 lmvh.com

Perrier-Joüet Blason Rosé NV

2

Distributors

3

Vintage bliss

The Belle Epoque range represents the top wines of Perrier Joüet’s champagne production, which means that this producer sources grapes from Grand Cru villages; the Chardonnay (which makes up 50% of this blend) comes from the villages of Cramant, Avize and Le Mesnil in the Côte de Blanc while the Pinot Noir (45%) is from vineyards in the villages of Mailly, Ay, Verzy and Rilly, with the balance being 5% of Pinot Meunier from Dizy. There is a portion of still Pinot Noir in this wine, which is made in the Champagne region, and which adds tannin, weight, toasty richness and intensity. The 2006 Perrier-Joüet Belle Epoque Rose is an ultra pricey champagne but it is of outstanding quality and drinks beautifully.

The 2006 Perrier Joüet Belle Epoque Rose is an ultra pricey champagne with its recommended retail tag of $450, but it is of outstanding quality and drinks beautifully.

40 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

4

Big name quality

RRP $79.99

Moët & Chandon Nectar Imperial Moët is the largest producer of champagne in the world, which keeps the pressure on the company’s winemakers to ensure their ‘everyday’ bubbly has the X factor, which this outstanding super fresh, full bodied white does. It is always aged for up to two and a half years before being sold. The ‘t’ is pronounced; ‘Mow-et’.

5

Grand by the glass

RRP $109.99

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006

(Served by the glass at $28 at The Grove in Auckland’s CBD)

This champagne is nine years old but tastes as fresh as a you-know-what, with rich concentrated flavours of white flowers and peach; indicating it has the extra je ne sais quo that you would hope for at this price.

YEALANDS.CO.NZ

YEALANDSESTATE

YEALANDS

H A N D C R A F TE D IN C EN T R A L OTAG O “As the region’s founding winery, we handcraft premium Central Otago varietals inspired by tradition and the rugged and beautifu l landscape we call home.”

-Gibbston Valley Chief Winemaker Christopher Keys

Wine pioneers since 1983

www.gibbstonvalley.com

WINE NEWS

Radical winemaker Find out what makes winemaker, wine judge and, most importantly, wine lover, Kate Radburnd, tick

Kate Radburnd – winemaker at Pask Winery.

What led you into winemaking and when was that?

My love affair with wine began with my parents who were avid wine enthusiasts.

We were introduced to wine at a very young age, (I was about 10), by being “allowed” a small glass of wine with our evening meal on special occasions. Every sip was treasured and was accompanied by a rundown from Dad of where the wine was from and what its characteristics were.

Wine was an integral part of our family time, always enjoyed around the table with a meal and plenty of robust discussion, and it remains so.

The first wine that really took your breath away was….?

I have many memorable wine experiences, all of which relate back to the people I was with at the time. Home is Adelaide for me and Riesling is synonymous with home, particularly from the Clare Valley. It is what I drink first when I arrive home and I love it.

I do remember tasting Rutherglen Muscat for the first time and thinking how fantastic this luscious, concentrated unique wine was; pure raisins in a glass and nowhere else to my knowledge produces these same flavours. There’s always a bottle in the cellar. My favourite wines when I was growing up were the reds from Wendouree, hugely concentrated, massive wines. I prefer more elegant styles now – I must have grown up.

What are the biggest wine challenges in Hawke’s Bay at the moment?

Our greatest challenge is telling our story globally. New Zealand is so well known for Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, varieties that are not Hawke’s Bay’s core wines, so we are not front of mind or as well- known as a region, even though we are the oldest winegrowing region. Our challenge is to articulate the diversity of styles the Bay can produce and the ageing ability of these wines. For New Zealand to further estab-

lish itself on the global stage we need to demonstrate longevity in our wines and the styles we produce in our region make some of the finest in the world.

What are the biggest delights of Bay wines at the moment?

The evolution of Syrah in the Bay over the last 25 years; wines that have commanded consistent, positive international press and truly reflect our long, cool growing seasons.

The range of styles being produced are exciting, vibrant red fruited wines, fragrant lifted expressions and dark fruited brooding styles, all of which have a degree of elegance and restraint which is marvellous.

Syrah is a pivotal variety for Hawke’s Bay’s future.

Syrah is a pivotal variety for Hawke’s Bay’s future. The range of styles is exciting from vibrant red fruited wines, fragrant lifted expressions and dark fruited brooding styles, all of which have a degree of elegance and restraint which is marvellous.

In those terms, how was 2013 for Pask Winery?

I have particularly enjoyed the Chardonnay, Syrah and Bordeaux reds from 2013.

Our newly introduced Small Batch range highlight two completely different expressions of Chardonnay and I am thrilled we have been able to show this. I thoroughly enjoy their freshness now but they will be great drinking in two to three years time.

Our 2013 reds are ripe, balanced wines and we have introduced a Cabernet Sauvignon under the Small Batch range as well, something we have not produced since 1998. It is pure, cool climate ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with a grace and fragrance not often seen.

It will age beautifully and will unfold well over the next ten years. Our Declaration

reds, Syrah, Merlot and Cab Merlot Malbec are dense ripe wines with significant tannin and firm structure which are simply youngsters; patience will be rewarded, and all good things take time…

Speaking of vintages, what were the silver linings in 2012 for Pask Winery?

Our absolute silver lining from the 2012 vintage was our Declaration Chardonnay.

Chardonnay ripens early for us at Gimblett Road and is absolutely consistent in ripening. We were awarded four trophies for this wine at the International Wine Challenge 2013, best HB Chardonnay, best NZ Chardonnay, best NZ white wine and Sustainable Trophy for the Show.

How often do you judge at wine shows and which are your favourite ones to go to?

I am Chair of Judges for the Royal Easter Wine Show so it is my favourite and I thoroughly enjoy it. The timing of judging in February is fantastic as current season whites often have had a chance to settle in the bottle and the previous vintage reds are coming through particularly with Pinot Noir and Syrah. We have introduced a heritage category, which highlights ageability and consistency of wine styles which I am delighted about. I have judged regularly over the years in most New Zealand wine competitions and judge each year in San Francisco.

When you’re ready to put your feet up, relax and unwind, what is your personal favourite go-to drink; wine or otherwise?

Wine is my absolute love and I can assure you I enjoy my fair share in my leisure.

Absolute always on hand for me is soda water; keeps me hydrated and my palate fresh. And I have learnt to be more sensible in my old age – but that has taken a while!

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 43

WINE NEWS

Man on mission NEW ZEALAND’S oldest winery, Mission Estate, has appointed Simon Swa to be the company’s new export manager. Swa has spent 12 years working in the United Kingdom for The Wine Society and Maisons Marques & Domaines, prior to emigrating to New Zealand in 2007. He joins Mission Estate from Peregrine Wines where he spent three years as head of sales and marketing. He has also worked at Sacred Hill Wines in Hawke’s Bay. “As a business, we remain absolutely committed to continuing our export growth.

Simon’s expertise is going to play an important role in achieving this and we are delighted to welcome him to the Mission Estate family,” says Peter Holley, Mission Estate CEO. Simon Swa

New cellar door at Saint Clair

One of Marlborough’s largest wineries has a new lease of life with its freshly renovated cellar door and cafe SIX MONTHS of renovation and revamping its cellar door has given Saint Clair Family Estate a fresh look for visitors, thanks to Marlborough architects Smart Alliances, who worked with Evan Jones Construction.

Key to the renovation was a new kitchen, which was designed and installed by Southern Hospitality. This has dramatically extended the previous area from the ‘domestic’ style kitchen of earlier cellar proud of the result achieved, but realise door days and led to a rejuvenated menu the real journey is just beginning. The Saint to match.

Clair vineyard and kitchen team are really The new look interior excited about the openwas created utilising the The overall effect of the ing and look forward to renovation has been to skills of Christchurch welcoming our many give the Saint Clair winery guests,” says Julie interior design firm, a light and airy feel, which Ibbotson.

Crafted, who worked is stylish and comfortable. with Saint Clair winery “The interior includes Ibbotson describes it as family member and components of the designer, Tony Ibbotson. “modern/industrial with a Saint Clair family story historical twist”.

“It’s been a lengthy etched in various areas and, at times, challengof the recycled timber ing journey with lots of interesting family floor, the tables and even the mirrors in discussion and great input from many the bathroom. The clean new fresh design people along the way. We are all incredibly mixes with a more rustic look to capture 44 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Saint Clair sisters, Sarina and Julie Ibbotson.

the essence of the outdoors and a vineyard feel,” she says.

The overall effect of the renovation has been to give the Saint Clair winery a light and airy feel, which is stylish and comfortable. Ibbotson describes it as “modern/ industrial with a historical twist”.

It was important to family members to give the winery a strong focus on the family history in the new fitout. This has been achieved by several different applications including sandblasted text into handmade wine bottle lighting fixtures, laser etched floor boards, table tops and profile cut steel panels into the fireplace surround and the main entry signage.

News briefs

LET THE CONVERSATION FLOW...

Central celebration LABOUR WEEKEND will mark the opening of the first ever Down to Earth celebration of wine in Central Otago from Saturday 24 October to Wednesday 4 November 2015. The inaugural hands-on event will provide wine lovers with the chance to immerse themselves in traditional method sparkling winemaking at Rudi Bauer’s Quartz Reef Winery, where they can learn about how the yeast lees are hand disgorged from the winery’s Methode Traditionnelle bottles. Participants this year can also learn how and why animals are part of the biodynamic wine journey at Felton Road’s vineyards.

Giesen distributes Lehmann GIESEN WINES has been appointed as the exclusive distributor for Peter Lehmann Wines (PLW) in New Zealand. The new partnership is the first time an external brand has been introduced into the Giesen Wines distribution business. Peter Lehmann Wines was founded by the late Peter Lehmann and is now owned by the large Casella Family Brands; founders of Yellow Tail wines. New Zealand winemaker Theo Giesen says that he is delighted to be working with another family business.

Rothschild wines available GLENGARRY’S HEADQUARTERS at Victoria Park, Auckland, was the place; Baron Philippe de Rothschild wines were the theme at a highly anticipated Bordeaux tasting held this year. The tasting featured a range of Bordeaux wines which are now available, in limited supplies, via Hancocks and Glengarry. The wines began at RRP $130 for the 2008 Chateau d’Armailhac and went up to $1850 for the 2010 Chateau Mouton Rothschild; a highly priced wine from an outstanding vintage in Bordeaux, in which the temperatures were so warm that the wine contains an unusually high proportion of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, with just 6% Merlot to flesh out the already smooth structure of this wine. The late Baron Philippe de Rothschild was also highly regarded for the many innovations that he introduced to France’s largest high priced red wine region. These included introducing bottling at the chateau (wineries) in 1922, introducing a second label in 1930 (a bad vintage) called Mouton Cadet, which gained a strong following. And, in 1933, he bought an estate next door to Mouton called Chateau d’Armailhac; a 70 hectare vineyard.

Musar in NZ RALPH HOCHAR from Chateau Musar arrived in New Zealand for the first time this year; the third generation Lebanese owner of the winery explained how his grandfather founded it in 1930 and his late uncle, Serge Hochar (a Bordeaux trained winemaker) had since pioneed an extremely maverick style of winemaking in a country that is about a 20th of the size of New Zealand, borders Syria and Israel and is similar geographically to Chile; although not as long. Modern winemaking in Lebanon dates from the mid 1800s.

The Chateau Musar tastings around New Zealand were a bid to highlight the diversity of a winery, which has previously only been available as an annual indent. “We feel it’s a time now for us to take another step forward and stock rather than indent. We are hoping to have more demand than supply; Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch,” says Andrew Parkinson, of Negociants.

Chateau Musar wines are imported and distributed in New Zealand by Negociants New Zealand, negociantsnz.com

We’ve been getting people together since French missionaries founded our winery in 1851.

Over the years many of the conversations have changed, but our reputation for quality and value has stood the test of time.

info@missionestate.co.nz

missionestate.co.nz

WINE NEWS

Osborne Port arrives

Federal Merchants & Co are adding a new brand to their port range available in New Zealand, bringing their tally of port brands to three

OSBORNE IS a family owned and operated company, which was founded in 1772

by Thomas Osborne Mann. Osborne Ports will be arriving in New Zealand for the first time in mid August.

Today the company is run by the seventh generation of the same family that founded it and it also produce spirits, wines and specialty food.

Osborne is based, as are all ports, at Porto in north west Portugal. The family sources the grapes for their ports from throughout the Douro Valley, focusing particularly on port grapes: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Barroca, which are planted on traditional Douro Valley terraces cut into schistose rock on steep hillsides.

The Osborne range Osborne Tawny

The Porto Cruz range RRP $34.95

Pale amber with subtle aromas of dried nuts, a medium sweet style, soft tannins and a luscious finish.

Osborne Ruby

RRP $34.95

Deep ruby in colour with rich aromas and flavours of red fruit, sweet spices and a long finish.

Osborne 10 Year Old Tawny

RRP $59.99

Deep amber colour with intense flavours of caramel, cinnamon, almonds and nuts, which suggest its long ageing process of a decade in old barrels, which do not impart flavour but which provide a controlled oxidative environment in which port can age and intensify in flavour as it evaporates naturally.

Osborne LBV

RRP $59.99

The letters LBV refer to late bottled vintage port, which is made from grapes grown in a single year and has traditionally offered exceptional value for money for a ruby port style. This is because LBV ports were traditionally bottled without fining or filtering and were, as a consequence, able to age for the long term.

Today, however, most LBV is fined and filtered, which makes it more approachable and smoother in texture as a young port. It is intense from its deep ruby colour to its dark fruit aromas (blackberries, blackcurrant and black plums) to its pronounced tannins, high alcohol and long finish.

46 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Federal Merchants is also the importer of the Porto Cruz range of ports, which was founded in 1887 in the rugged Douro Valley in Portugal; the birthplace of port. The Porto Cruz range is extensive and includes the following ports.

Porto Cruz Tawny

RRP $37.95

All tawny port is non vintage (with the extremely rare exception of colheita, the Portuguese word for vintage). This port has medium intensity of flavours with aromas of dried fruit and nuts with rich aromas of vanilla and caramel. It is medium sweet in style with high alcohol and a long, luscious finish.

Porto Cruz Ruby

RRP $37.95

This fresh, fruit driven port is an introduction to the world of ruby port and is aged for two to three years in oak casks in Vila Nova de Gaia in Portugal, prior to bottling and release.

Porto Cruz Special Reserve

RRP $49.95

This special reserve port is a blend of top quality tawny ports, which were aged on average for seven years in 35,000-litre oak vats, which provides its rich hallmark aromas of ripe fruit and nuts.

There are also four aged Porto Cruz tawny ports available in New Zealand; as 10, 20, 30, 40 year old ports.

Valdouro ports are also distributed by Federal Merchants.

Their Tawny and Ruby ports both have an RRP of $32.99.

New Osborne Ports and Sherries Distributed by Federal Merchants & Co. Ph: 0800 846 824 | E: info@federalmerchants.co.nz | W: federalmerchants.co.nz

BEER CATEGORY REPORT

No winter lasts forever; no spring skips its turn Beers to see off winter and welcome spring

48 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

CATEGORY REPORT B EER

VICIOUS, BOTTLED

YANKEE PEARLER

HOPPED TO IT

Mac’s Mid Vicious Session Pale Ale

Galbraith’s Special Edition Pale Ale New American Style

Monteith's Brewer's Series Double Hopped IPA

RRP $6.99 each, 500ml, 5.3% ABV

RRP $6.29 each, 500 ml, 7.0% ABV

Who would have thought America would teach restraint? The Galbraith's team discovered this style on the West Coast of the United States and have brought its consistent, somewhat restrained style to our shores. Rather than a massive hop onslaught and then bitter finish, the American style maintains a consistent flavour profile throughout. It doesn't whack you between the eyes with its hops but demonstrates the best characters throughout the brew.

Recommended.

Reminiscent of a glammed-up New Zealand bitter, Double Hopped IPA does not blow you away with its hop characters. A concerted effort has been made to balance the hops with malt and the result is a more easydrinking IPA than its fearsome label might suggest. As with the Imperial Pilsner, its easy-drinking could be dangerous at 7.5% alcohol.

RRP $15.99 (6 pack), 330ml, 2.5% ABV

With new drink-drive limits making lower strength beers the flavour of the month, Mac’s have bottled their popular Mid Vicious ale that was formerly a tap-only brew.

Pouring a pale amber, Mid Vicious has a restrained hoppiness and a subtle bitterness that serious beer drinkers will enjoy. It has craft beer sensibility but without the dizzying heights of alcohol content often found in such brews. Pairs well with pizza or a midstrength curry.

LION

CLASSY PILS

HANCOCKS

Galbraith's Bohemian Pilsner

OUR SAVIOUR

RRP $21.99 (6 pack), 330ml, 4.3% ABV

Galbraith's classic pilsner is a big seller at their Mt Eden headquarters and it's easy to see why. A grassy, delicious, pale yellow pour that has pleasing crispness, the Bohemian could be easily sessioned in garden-bar surrounds or as a classy sport-watching lager. Great fish and chip beer, if we're talking snapper and gourmet potatoes, that is.

HANCOCKS

GROWN-UP PILS Galbraith’s Special Edition Czech Style Pilsner RRP $6.99 each, 500ml, 5.2% ABV

The big brother to the Bohemian pilsner, Galbraith's Czech-style pilsner ups the ante in all departments. Arriving in the big 500ml bottle and with a hiked-up 5.2% alcohol content, the Czech nevertheless comes across somehow softer, with less bitterness than its companion pils. The flavours are similar but more focused and mature. The grassy character now reads as hay, the malt characters are more caramel. The Bohemian has grown up!

HANCOCKS

Galbraith’s Redemption $13.99 (4 pack), 330 ml, 2.5% ABV

Maintaining flavour but lowering alcohol is the Holy Grail of brewing in the current environment. Galbraith's have risen admirably to the task with their Redemption brew. With hefty hops and malt characteristics, most drinkers would be hard pressed to distinguish Redemption from a regular-strength beer. A great option for a satisfying drop that will still leave you sharp.

DB BREWERIES

WONDERFUL WESTIE Black Sands New Zealand Pale Ale RRP $7.95 each, 500ml, 5.0% ABV

One of our favourite new drops, Black Sands' pale ale is a tangy yet refined ale with light hints of tropical fruits and a zesty, citrus character throughout the hop profile. Drawing on the inspiration from Auckland's black sand West Coast beaches, the ale may be a "westie" but it’s certainly not rough. Think Piha refinement with Kelston grunt. One of the best new beers we've tasted. Highly recommended.

BLACK SANDS

HANCOCKS

SMOKE AND MOLASSSES

WEST COAST EMPEROR

Sunshine Off Shore India Pale Lager

Monteith’s Brewer’s Series Imperial Pilsner A big beer from Monteith's, this Imperial Pilsner pours a pale golden and has a caramely nose and a sweet, fine texture in its onset. With a big bitterness at the end that will attract the connoisseurs, Monteith's Imperial's hops will pair well with curries and spice-laden dishes. It's a big beer in more ways than one, though, so drinkers will have to be wary of its hefty 7% alcohol content.

A really flavourful beer with a grunt, the Gisborne brewery has been hard at work packing this one full of varying notes. Our testers detected smoky, bacon like, molasses and honey characteristics, rounded out with a citrusy finish. The beer is brewed with Hexton (north of Gisborne) artesian well water which provides a minerality to the lager. The smoky notes we detected may be from the American toasted chips utilised in the boil.

An interesting beer, perhaps could go well with breakfast?

DB BREWERIES

SUNSHINE BREWERY

RRP $6.29 each, 500 ml, 7.0% ABV

RRP $7.99-$8.49 each, 500ml, 6.4% ABV

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 49

BEER CATEGORY REPORT

PALE BUT FESTIVE

THE GINGER BEERS ARE COMING

Sunshine Pale Face Ale

Crabbie's Original Alcoholic Ginger Beer, Zesty Lemon and Raspberry

RRP $7.99-$8.49 each, 500ml, 5.5% ABV

4.0% ABV, Ginger Beer 500ml RRP $6.99 each, 330ml $13.99 for four pack Zesty Lemon 330ml, RRP $13.99 for four pack, Raspberry 500ml, RRP $6.99 each

Pouring a beautiful amber, Pale Face has a spicy, malty complexity with hints of Christmas pudding. The team at Sunshine has introduced a nine-stage hopping process and the results really show. The hops are complex and layered and the balance of the beer is exceedingly well maintained throughout.

Nothing pale about the flavour.

SUNSHINE BREWERY

FLAVOURFUL BUT FRIENDLY Sunshine Power Cut Mild Dark Ale RRP $2.50 each, 330ml, 2.4% ABV

While they call it mild, the alcohol content is the only thing mild about this drop. Loaded with caramel notes and a big malty base, Power Cut has heaps of flavour for a beer that is only 2.4%. Legend has it is was developed on a day that the only power feed into Gisborne died and the brewer was about to throw away the batch for having no alcohol. Thankfully they caught it in time and Power Cut was born. Another excellent addition to a burgeoning class of quality, lower-alcohol beers.

SUNSHINE BREWERY

MIDNIGHT FEAST Sunshine Black Magic Stout RRP $7.99-$8.49 each, 500ml, 5.0% ABV

Pouring dark and treacly into the glass like a spilled ink well, Black Magic Stout tastes every bit as dark as its appearance suggests.

The malty, marmitey, chocolate flavour has hints of sawdust and pencil shavings that will please dark beer aficionados. The dusty, yeasty character will not be to everyone's liking but the the drop could easily be imagined being savoured standing round a drum fire after a winter surf.

SUNSHINE BREWERY

NO ALCOHOL, NO WORRIES DB Export 0.0% Citrus RRP $18.99 (12 pack), 330ml, 0.0% ABV

Throw your pre-conceived notions out the 50 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

Crabbie's Ginger Beer has exploded in Europe over their summer and it's New Zealand's turn to see what all the fuss is about. The Crabbie family have been making this brewed ginger concoction since John Crabbie and Co first set up shop in Edinburgh in 1801.

The original recipe ginger beer is a spicy mixture with honey notes complementing the ginger tang. The elephant on the bottle is homage to the "Far East" origins of the ginger though the Crabbie family are tight with the exact makeup of the four "secret ingredients" that go into the brew.

The Raspberry version is a deep red, berry mixture that retains the spice character of the original giving it a slightly medicinal taste. Younger drinkers are sure to flock to it. The Zesty Lemon, on the other hand, has more of a lemon and barley flavour to it and brings back the nostalgia of surviving 40 Hour Famines on nothing but the lollies.

The team at Crabbie's recommend their ginger beers are chilled and then served over a glass full of ice. Garnish with a piece of lemon or lime, or perhaps a real berry for the raspberry, and enjoy. At just 4%, the Crabbie's range will be able to be enjoyed over the course of a long hot summer barbecue or beside the pool as an afternoon refresher.

HANCOCKS

door and try this one. I was sceptical at first too but then a funny thing happened – I kept going back to the fridge time and again and at all times of the day. It's a beer you can drink any time, anywhere! The lemon flavour gives it a nice old-fashioned lemonade style about it and it's particularly pleasant to find a soft drink that isn't too sweet and is still refreshing. Will be a favourite with barmen in summer as its versatility as a mixer will also come to the fore.

DB BREWERIES

BONNIE WEE DROP Invercargill Brewery Men n Skurrts RRP $7.90 each, 330 ml, 7.0% ABV

With all the punch of a southerly whipping in off Foveaux Straight, Invercargill Brewery has not strayed far from their town's Scottish roots with its Men n Skurrts. The bottle's tartan cap is just the beginning. This Scotch Ale has a peaty, smoky, single malt character that dominates the brew and lights a fire in the belly. There's not much fizz but the musky brew doesn't need it. Chuck on a kilt

and get into it.

INVERCARGILL BREWERY

Distributors Black Sands 09 813 0856 blacksandsbrewing.co.nz DB Breweries 0800 746 432 db.co.nz Hancocks 0800 699 463 hancocks.co.nz Invercargill Brewery 03 214 5070 invercargillbrewery.co.nz Lion 0800 107 272 lionco.com Sunshine Brewery 06 867 7777 sunshinebrewery.co.nz

BEER & CIDER NEWS

Black & white

Four new limited release Steinlager cans tell a story of the Original All Blacks – as well as highlight a brand’s story THIS YEAR, 2015, marks the 110th anniversary of New Zealand’s inaugural rugby tour of the United Kingdom, in which the team were known as the Originals and won 34 out of 35 the games played, fixing New Zealand on the global rugby map.

To commemorate the Originals’ landmark tour, the makers of Steinlager have released a limited edition white can. It was considered a lucky charm in 1987 and a nostalgic symbol of hope in 2011.

The new release will feature four one off designs, each with a special tale from the Originals tour, which earned the All Blacks their top team playing name 110 years ago.

“As our emerging nation believed in them back then, New Zealand still believes now. We’re really excited to have the white can back, and we hope New Zealanders will enjoy it too,” says Ben Wheeler from Steinlager.

The limited release Steinlager Classic white cans are available from 3 August in 12 packs, RRP $24.99.

The Spanish chef’s beer He is known for molecular gastronomy but now Spanish chef Ferran Adria has turned his talented hands to creating a beer to go with salty food TAKE A malt and wheat beer, a modern approach to cooking and an experimental Spanish chef named Ferran Adrià and what do you get?

The answer is: Inedit Damm; a new malt and wheat beer created to accompany and complement the varied flavours of modern food; specifically that which Adria creates.

Adria is known in global food circles for his adventurous approach to food, in which he combines flavours and textures in dishes that

they would not traditionally be found in. He also recommends serving it in a wine glass, which, as with wine, should be poured no more than half full and served at a temperature of between four to eight degrees Celsius. The bottle should be kept cool by placing on ice.

Inedit Damm can be found on the beverage menu of New Zealand’s finest restaurants, including Baduzzi, The Grove Restaurant, Odettes Eatery, Marvel Grill and Mikano Bar and Restaurant.

Negociants takes on Aussie cider THE MAKERS of Hills Cider have appointed Negociants New Zealand to distribute their Australian craft ciders in this country.

The Hills Cider Company has fast become one of Australia’s most recognisable craft cider products, in both bottle and kegs, winning the Champion Cider in Show at the Australian Cider Awards.

It was first launched in 2010. The Hills Cider Company producers say that they use only 100% fresh fruit, with no added sugar, concentrate, flavour or water. The apples and pears in their ciders are grown in South Australia’s cool climate Adelaide Hills.

Cider maker Steve Dorman says he is excited by the opportunity to take his products to the New Zealand cider market, which he says is already home to some exemplary cider producers.

“The strong demand in the New Zealand cider market for quality, craft, ‘real cider’, produced not from flavours and concentrate but from fresh apples and pears, is a strong sign that consumers are actively seeking out quality and traceability. New Zealand cider drinkers have almost tripled since 2010, and we think drinkers will enjoy our fresh, natural, fruit driven range.”

All Hills Cider products are gluten free and vegan. negociantsnz.com

HOT MIXES

Bombay beauty

The makers of one of the world’s best known gins held a botanicals masterclass in Auckland in late July; here are the new wave gin cocktails from that ‘class’

The Bramble Created by visionary London bartender, Dick Bradsell, whilst working at Fred’s Club in Soho, London in 1984. Bradsell says: “From the first sip it’s simple and immensely likeable. The perfect balance of sweet and sour complements the Bombay Sapphire, with a splash of crème de mure leaving a hint of richness at the finish.”

45ml Bombay Sapphire 20ml fresh lemon juice 10ml sugar syrup 1:1 10ml Crème de Mure *1.587 standard drinks Tumbler Ice

Fill tumbler with ice, add Bombay Sapphire, lemon juice and sugar syrup and stir.

Top with crushed ice and gently add crème de mure.

Garnish with lemon slice and blackberries or seasonal berries and serve with straws.

The Laverstoke

The Laverstoke Created by Sam Carter, senior ambassador for the Bombay Sapphire Spirits Company, to celebrate the opening of the Bombay Sapphire Distillery at Laverstoke Mill in Hampshire, England in 2014.

Carter says: “The combination of Bombay Sapphire, seasonal Martini Rosso, premium elderflower cordial and dry ginger ale creates a fresh, well balanced cocktail filled with spicy, floral and citrus notes that is worthy of any celebration.”

30ml Bombay Sapphire 15ml Martini Rosso 10ml premium elderflower cordial 100ml premium dry ginger ale *1.755 standard drinks Glassware Bombay Sapphire copa balloon glass Ice

The Bramble

Add Bombay Sapphire, Martini Rosso and premium elderflower cordial to a copa balloon glass and stir.

Squeeze and drop a freshly cut lime wedge into glass.

Add plenty of cubed ice to glass and stir to chill.

Add premium ginger ale by pouring down a bar spoon over the ice, while gently stirring to combine ingredients.

Garnish with a second squeezed lime wedge, two slivers of fresh ginger and one large mint sprig.

This year, the makers of Bombay Sapphire Gin have released a new glass, which was specially designed to enhance the aromatic qualities of Sapphire; its stem pays homage to the brand’s distinctive blue hue.

Bombay Sapphire’s Ultimate Gin & Tonic Borne out of adversity, this historic concoction gained notoriety in Colonial India as a means to ward off fever; the makers of Bombay Sapphire have added a new dimension to a timeless classic, creating a refreshing and aromatic drink to enjoy at any time of the year.

30ml Bombay Sapphire 150ml Quina Fina Tonic Water Squeeze of fresh lime *.947 standard drinks Bombay Sapphire copa balloon glass Ice Garnish with lemon zest, or your preferred choice of garnish

Add Bombay Sapphire to copa balloon glass, squeeze a freshly cut lime wedge over glass.

Add cubed ice to glass and stir.

Pour Quina Fina Tonic Water down a bar spoon over the ice, while gently stirring to combine ingredients.

Garnish with lemon zest or your preferred garnish.

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 53

GIN CATEGORY REPORT

Gin renaissance Once upon a time, the main roles of gin were to be dry, distilled with juniper and blended with top quality tonic; now this much-maligned spirit is regaining popularity in new ways, writes Editor Joelle Thomson

COOL AS A CUCUMBER

BOMBAY STAR

NEIGHBOURHOOD GIN

Hendrick’s Gin RRP

Bombay Sapphire

Mahurangi Gin

RRP $84.95, 1 litre, 44% ABV

RRP $38.99, 700ml; RRP $49.99, 1 litre, 40% ABV

RRP $79.99, 700ml, 40% ABV

Essence of rose and fresh cool cucumber aromas have become the defining flavours of the gin that is arguably the best known new wave classic; Hendrick’s. Its Scottish producers have inspired many imitators but the purity of flavour, distinctive bottle design and sassy marketing lingo remain original. The gin is produced in relatively small batches in the Highlands at Grant’s distillery (home to the eponymous whisky) and while its flavours have an aromatic floral and fruity intensity, this is an extremely fresh, extremely pure gin. Its presence on your shelf guarantees that people know you are serious about gin.

FEDERAL MERCHANTS

The name Bombay Sapphire is arguably the best known among gin drinkers today and its alluring bottle design and branding have opened the doors to new look and new tastes in gin. It was first launched in 1987 and then sold a decade later by Diageo to Bacardi. Its name is an allusion to the British Raj, which was famed for drinking gin and tonic in the Indian heat, and the taste comes from the inclusion of 10 botanicals, which are passed through the gin in a basket, during distillation – rather than macerated prior to distillation; that would result in stronger flavours. Those botanicals are almond, lemon peel, licorice, juniper berries, orris root, angelica, coriander, cassia, cubeb and the enticing sound, grains of paradise.

LION

54 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

The production of this New Zealand gin was inspired by the story of Robert Graham; a politician, businessman, entrepreneur and the founder of Waiwera Health Resort. He arrived in New Zealand in 1842 and believed that the natural baths at Waiwera had health giving benefits, hence the focus of this gin’s flavours: hand picked manuka tree flowers, organic grapefruit and, naturally, Waiwera water. This gin is distilled by Sasha Samorukov, who filters the spirit through a gravity fed activated charcoal system, which results in its clean, pure flavours and its silky, smooth, long and flavoursome finish.

WAIWERA SPIRITS

CATEGORY REPORT G IN

BEST DRESSED No. 3 London Dry Gin RRP $115, 750ml, 46% ABV

Traditional or modern, classic or new-wave, intensely flavoured or light and fresh? The makers of this intensely aromatic gin manage to combine all of these characteristics into a clean, silky, spicy, juniper berryintense gin. It has a note of sweetness on the finish, which is balanced well by its fresh citrusy lime overtones; it is produced by the British wine and spirits merchants, Berry Bros & Rudd, who have resided at No. 3 St James Street, London, since 1698.

NEGOCIANTS NZ

RARE BEAUTY Black Robin Rare Gin RRP $79, 750ml, 43% ABV

Fresh and new in both production and flavour, this New Zealand-made gin has already garnered a string of international awards since its initial release in 2013. Its flavours are of light juniper (to appeal to traditional gin devotees) with overriding notes of fresh spice (think nutmeg and coriander root) and a long, smooth finish.

NEGOCIANTS NZ

TOP ENGLISH DROP Broker’s London Dry Gin

About Gin • Gin was the white mixer of choice worldwide up until about the 1960s when vodka began to gain ground globally • The 1970s and 1980s saw gin lose volume and it has never regained its earlier popularity • Gin’s new-found niche popularity as a top shelf spirit began with the launch of Bombay Sapphire in 1987 in the United Kingdom, which has lightened up and helped to modernise the old fashioned image (and flavour) of gin

RRP $46.99, 1 litre, 40% ABV

In a world awash with new wave gin flavours, it is pleasing (to gin traditionalists, such as yours truly) to meet a modern classic; aka Broker’s London Dry Gin, which is made from a pure grain spirit with 10 botanicals used in the distillation process.

It’s a flavoursome gin with a spicy peppery flavour and zesty front palate zing. It is dry, medium bodied and contains 40% ABV. INDEPENDENT LIQUOR

• The makers of Bombay Sapphire have been strongly educational in their marketing by promoting the knowledge that gin is made from aromatic ingredients that are known as botanicals

• The scale of production escalated swiftly and heavy consumption of gin became a problem; this was brought under control when gin was only permitted legally to be made by large producers in 1751

• Botanicals used in gin include juniper, coriander seed, licorice, angelica root, orris root, dried citrus peels, cucumber and, now, a growing range of florals, such as rose and geranium essences

• The gin of choice in those days was known as ‘Old Tom’ and was a strongly sweetened, juniperrich, corn-based spirit

• Gin originated in Holland in the 1600s; its popularity grew in England when William of Orange ascended the throne in 1689

BEAUTIFUL BOTANICALS Boodles Gin RRP $54.99, 700ml, 40% ABV

At first glance, this traditional looking bottle of gin appears to appeal to classicists, but its intensely licoricey and fresh Lighthouse Gin zesty lemon flavours have been dialed up RRP $54.99, 750ml, 42% ABV a notch or three, which The words ‘hand crafted’ ensures that this citrusy are used so frequently Lighthouse Gin shines in gin will woo a new in beverage producflavour; just as its name generation of drinkers tion these days that it looking for top quality suggests.

It is named after is often easy to forget and characterful beverthe lighthouse at Cape what they really mean; ages. This is a stunner but here is a product Palliser on the southern with classic modern that reveals just that, Wairarapa coastline. flavours. thanks to its powerful

TO THE LIGHTHOUSE

intensely fresh flavours and classic juniper-driven flavour profile, which is supplemented with botanicals that imbue it with a taste of citrus, licorice and fennel. Lighthouse Gin shines in flavour; just as its name suggests. It is named after the lighthouse at Cape Palliser on the southern Wairarapa coastline. It won a silver Medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and a gold medal at the United Kingdom Gin Masters Competition 2013.

EUROVINTAGE

EUROVINTAGE

PILLAR OF STRENGTH Four Pillars Rare Dry Gin RRP $75, 700ml, 41.8% ABV

Australia is known for many things, its lemon myrtle (backhousia citriodora) being one of them so it is no surprise to find it playing the starring role in this extraordinarily flavoursome new gin, which is distilled and produced in the Yarra Valley, 40 minutes

• Dry gin began production in 1803 when nine producers in London began pioneering a new unsweetened style of gin; these nine producers made 90% of London’s gin

north of Melbourne. It was launched in New Zealand in June last year and has since gone on to popularise not only the most aromatic Australian botanical but also to put a valid foot forward for a new wave style of gin that channels traditional flavour profiles, such as lime zest, lemon verbena and even a hint of zingy grapefruit.

EUROVINTAGE

EDITOR’S NEW-WAVE FAVOURITE Gin Mare RRP $105, 700ml, 42.7% ABV

The word ‘mare’ refers to the Mediterranean ‘sea’ and there is a purity and freshness in this Mediterranean gin, which is distilled with olives, thyme, rosemary and basil; as well as the all-essential ingredient, juniper, which defines all gin. The fresh style here makes this gin taste very clean, very intensely herbal (in a good way) and extremely dry in style, which makes it a gin lover’s dream, provided it is treated with respect. In this case, the intensely herby edge and dry flavour make it well suited to subtle cocktails, in which this gin will shine, but equally on it own, served strong with a DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 55

GIN CATEGORY REPORT

The role of botanicals • Citrus aromas are the first to be released when gin is diluted with mixers • Angelica seeds give gin a dry hop-like aroma • Almond provides a marzipan-like aroma and can be used to create either a sweet or a dry flavour • Licorice gives gin a spicy aroma and can also add a perception of sweetness to its flavour because licorice is 20 times sweeter than sugar • The other spices most commonly used to add aroma and flavour during gin production are nutmeg, caraway, coriander root and seed and cardamom • The new generation gins have added extra complexity to gin’s traditional juniper and licorice-driven flavours; they have done this by using pronounced flavours of rose petals (Hendrick’s), cucumber and citrus (Tanqueray 10).

56 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

top quality and fresh tonic water. A divine new find. Love it.

OLDIE AND A GOODIE

EUROVINTAGE

Plymouth Gin RRP $103.99, 1 litre, 41.2% ABV

CITRUS DELICIOUS Beefeater London Dry Gin RRP $50.99, 1 litre, 40% ABV

Beefeater needs little introduction but let’s look at where it all began; 1802 is the year when the English entrepreneur James Burrough founded Beefeater, which now has a loyal following for its strong historic brand integrity. On the flavour front, it also delivers consistently high quality (and now has a big sibling with extra intensity too, see below).

On the nose and palate this gin is all about citrus freshness with flavours of mandarin and orange zest, green herbs and juniper, which means that the perfect garnish is a sliver of fresh lemon.

PERNOD RICARD

BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL Beefeater 24 London Dry Gin RRP $89.99, 1 litre, 45% ABV

It is not only the floral decorated relief work on the bottle of this top shelf Beefeater gin that makes it worth the extra cost; master distiller Desmond Payne has turned the flavour up several notches here, adding the delicate but intense flavours of Japanese Sencha tea to this gin, which has all of its aromatic botanicals macerated for 24 hours prior to distillation. This adds a bold intensity of aroma and taste, which are led here by the power of the green tea aromas and supplemented by rich orange rind and juniper. It packs a surprisingly powerful punch in each zesty sip and it contains 45% ABV; which is 5% higher than standard but well balanced in this smooth gin.

PERNOD RICARD

Sweet orange is the flavour of choice for the distillers of this historic English gin, which is produced at the Black Friars Distillery in a Victorian copper still. The substantial bottle weight adds to the feeling of solidity in this richly flavoursome, juniper-driven gin, which is balanced by the rich orange aromas.

Plymouth was first produced in the 18th Century when London Dry Gin was growing in popularity, particularly in certain English ports, which accounts for the name, Plymouth. Since citrus is the first aroma that is released when gin is diluted (and therefore, when it is mixed with tonic), this gin has a strong sweet front palate. It finishes on a dry note. Garnish with lemon.

PERNOD RICARD

MILLER’S MARVEL Martin Miller’s Gin RRP $64.99, 700ml, 40% ABV

Martin Miller’s Gin is made from 10 carefully selected botanicals blended with Icelandic water and containing Tuscan juniper berries, French angelica, Chinese cassia bark and a range of other aromatics that add layers of complexity. These include cinnamon bark, coriander, Florentine orris, lemon & lime peel, licorice root, nutmeg, Seville orange peel and even a little cucumber. Clean, smooth, multilayered in flavour; a stunner with good tonic, lime and a short glass, please.

TICKETY-BOO LIQUOR

LONDON’S FINEST Sipsmith London Dry Gin RRP $64.99, 700ml, 41.6% ABV

Sipsmith Independent Spirits is the brainchild of Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall

CATEGORY REPORT G IN

with distiller Jared Brown in charge of the production, which is based in Hammersmith, in the former residence of the late, great English whisky writer, Michael Jackson.

And while the Sipsmith company is gaining a top quality reputation for its liqueurs (particularly the alluring Summer Cup and its vintage vodka), it is this, the Sipsmith London Dry Gin, that I would rate the most highly. Its sassy branding and cold artwork are one thing; its complex aromatic flavours and richness are quite another. This is an outstanding newcomer to the gin scene (new, as in the past five years). And while its popularity is growing, the best thing here, to date, is that its makers are dead keen on keeping it to a small batch production. Let’s hope and pray it stays that way.

TICKETY-BOO LIQUOR

WILD, FORAGED, DISTILLED The Botanist RRP $89.99, 700ml, 46% ABV

It is perhaps unsurprising that the Scottish island of Islay has only one locally distilled gin, but what a gin it is; dry, pure and fresh and apparently containing a heady harvest of 22 local botanicals. These aromatic herbs are, also unsurprisingly, hand picked. A team of foragers roam the island’s windswept hills, peat bogs and Atlantic shores of the Hebridean island for the harvest. The flavours are rich and intense; the style is full bodied and smooth while the zesty finish is super long – it lingers well after the last drop is gone. This is an exceptional new Scottish gin, proving again (as if proof was needed) that the Scots know a thing or three about crafting top notch spirits.

ORANGE IS THE NEW GIN

HANCOCKS

Gabriel Boudier Saffron Gin

OUT OF AFRICA

RRP $54.99, 700ml, 40% ABV

This unusually deep orange French gin is produced by Gabriel Boudier, who bases it on an old colonial recipe, which contains eight botanicals: juniper, coriander, lemon, orange peel, angelica, iris, fennel and saffron. It is produced in small batches using a traditional pot still. It’s a great mixing gin and is easily flattered when served with a slice of orange or grapefruit rather than lemon.

TICKETY-BOO LIQUOR

LIME SENSATION Seagers Lime Twisted RRP $34.99, 1 litre, 37.2% ABV

Seagers Gin has had a massive makeover and not only to the labels; the taste of this pair offers great depth of flavour, in this case of sweet intense lime zest with a classic juniper style and a medium dry finish.

INDEPENDENT LIQUOR

Whitley Neill RRP $69.99, 700ml, 42% ABV

Inspired by Africa, produced in England and made from the baobab fruit, which comes the native South African ‘tree of life’; this is one distinctive gin. It also contains Cape Gooseberries and seven other botanicals and is distilled in a copper still, which produces a smooth, soft textured, but fully flavoured spirit. Not for the faint hearted, this is intense in taste and high quality; as its price and flavours both suggest.

HANCOCKS

OLD TOM Haymans Old Tom Gin RRP $49.99, 700ml, 44% ABV

Gin facts • Many high volume gin brands are made using gin flavour concentrates, which need to be diluted prior to bottling so that a gin may contain just 4-5 per cent of a gin concentrate • Natural flavourings and ‘nature-identical’ flavours are used in gin production • Lower priced gin brands tend to be produced purely by the addition of flavourings • The flavour of botanical ingredients can be destroyed by the heat during distillation • Delicate flavours such as rose can be added to gin either during distillation or following distillation, depending on the cost of the final gin product.

The name Haymans has a long association with distilling gin, having first formed as a group of family distillers in 1863, when the DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 57

GIN CATEGORY REPORT

style of sweeter gins, known as Old Tom, were the gin of choice. The classic Tom Collins cocktail was inspired by exactly this style of intense and slightly sweeter gins, which adds a light touch and a richly flavoursome taste. This gin errs on sweet, but is beautifully balanced and matches well with a sliver of lime and a great tonic.

Haymans gins

The Haymans gin range also includes Haymans Original Gin, which is available in two sizes; 1 litre and 700ml. Haymans gins have been produced for five generations by a family owned and operated company.

Its distillery is based in Witham; 40 miles north east of London, which is the home of the family’s 450 litre copper pot still, which they have affectionately named Marjorie; in memory of an important family member.

All of the gins are blended and bottled on site, which enables a high degree of quality control (many spirits are not bottled on the same site at which they are produced).

HANCOCKS

AN OLD ROGUE Rogue Society RRP $79.99, 750ml, 40% ABV

The makers of Rogue Society Dry Gin have created a new icon in a swift space of time;

Fast fact London Gin or London Dry Gin is not a geographic indication of gin production and can be made anywhere in the world, but it cannot have flavourings or sweeteners added to the distillate.

58 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

from the gin’s launch less than two years ago to the creation of a new variant (see below). This gin is distilled in Canterbury by its founders, Daniel McLaughlin, Mark Neal and Richard Bourke, who use a copper pot still with water from the Southern Alps. This trio are gin devotees from way back, which accounts for the classic style of gin here with its dialed up flavours of lemony citrus, juniper and spice. It is best served with a sliver of orange rind, which accentuates its richly flavoursome style.

a delicate touch; in this case, that delicacy comes from five botanicals that the makers of Caorunn (pronounced ‘ka-roon’) describe as Celtic botanicals. This translates to one part rowan berry, one part heather, one part bog myrtle, one part dandelion, one part blush apple and a lot of loving care in the small batch distillation process, which results in a clean, pure tasting and lively modern gin.

HANCOCKS

HANCOCKS

A NEW ROGUE Rogue Society Goldi Locks RRP $125, 750ml, 57% ABV

This month (August) sees a new Rogue join the stable; it is named Goldi Locks and contains an impressively high 57% alcohol, which its makers describe as navy strength.

It remains in the same iconic bottle that Rogue Gin fans have come to know and love but this one has a 24 carat gold plated disc on its front, which, with the name Goldi Locks, is the only differentiating feature in the packaging. Like its big brother, Rogue Society Goldi Locks is made in small batches, which shines through in its clean pure flavours. Its flavours are predominantly juniper and citrus-driven on the nose and palate, but it does contain an impressive 13 botanicals: lemon peel, orange peel, coriander seeds, cloves, angelica root, licorice root, cardamom pods, nutmeg, juniper berries, orris root, cinnamon sticks and cassia bark make a dozen. And the thirteenth? Dried tangerine.

HANCOCKS

SMALL BATCH SCOTTISH Caorunn RRP $79.99, 700ml, 41.8% ABV

Trust the Scots to create a strong spirit with

Distributors EuroVintage 0800 338 766 eurovintage.co.nz Federal Merchants & Co 0800 846 824 federalmerchants.co.nz Hancocks 0800 699 463 hancocks.co.nz Independent Liquor 0800 420 001 independentliquor.co.nz Lion 0800 107 272 lionco.com Negociants NZ 0800 634 624 negociantsnz.com Pernod Ricard NZ 0800 655 550 pernod-ricard-nz.com Tickety-Boo Liquor 09 377 7597 tickety-boo.co.nz Waiwera Spirits 021 983 382 waiweraspirit.co.nz

A NEW LOOK FOR SOUTHERN COMFORT

GOOD TIMES

MADE COMFORTABLE

SPIRITS COLUMN

Dream drams

Chilly weather calls for cool but flavoursome whisky; Michael F Fraser-Milne selects a carefully chosen trio of great wee drams

FOR ME any time is a good time to share a dram of fine whisky and I do think that in winter there can be something very special about that dark drop on the cooler evenings.

Atmosphere adds a lot; an open fire or a log burner really does set the scene, for me, and a right miserable night can even add great joy to the occasion. However all you need to enjoy that winter’s night is a dark or starlit evening with good company and of course the right dram.

So, that begs the question – what is a dram to do the job on such occasions?

I tend to head towards heavier, meatier styles of whisky during the dimmest and darkest moments of winter.

The one that springs to mind is the most recent release of Longrow Red from Springbank.

This was a dream for winter; 100% aged in ex-port pipes, at cask strength. It has a level of smoke that is just right; a hint of sea shore, with cranberry and a complex touch of seaweed on the nose, with great creamy oak notes. What a delight.

I have been very sceptical on some ‘finishes’ or winesky’s over the years and always approach anything with an

‘unusual’ or wine cask with great scepticism. However, this is the second release from Springbank of Longrow Red; the first being six years in American Oak and then five years in Australian Shiraz casks. Both have been a huge hit.

The next one to come out later this year is a Longrow Red with a New Zealand Pinot Noir cask influence. I am away to Scotland in August and am hoping for a wee pre release look at this dram. The anticipation in this case is great, but I will have to wait.

Another whisky that I have always enjoyed, which seems to fit the bill for these winter nights is the standard Benromach 10 year old. Sipping this the other night I could not but help think what a wonderfully balanced drop it is; 10 years is not young in any way and this whisky has achieved an enviable reputation since its release. It has a smattering of smoke and mixed spice and it really holds the palate with a great oily texture, a nutty/malty taste and very good fruit. Another delight.

The last of the trio this time is a dram which is now famous; the Kilchoman Farm Distillery from Islay. We have just been enjoying this distillery’s third release

of its heavily ex-sherry cask influenced Kilchoman Loch Gorm. It is the best yet; a stunner.

It’s classic in its style; all boots and braces smoky Islay whisky. However it is very complex, rich and sort of sweet – yes, there is tarry rope on the nose, although very old tarry rope. There is seaweed present on the nose; however, it is mature as well, with fruit flavours that are deep and intense like a whisky soaked fruit cake. The addition of whisky matured in strong ex-oloroso hogsheads has added a lot to this dram; a touch of the cigar box and a finish that leaves only one conclusion – let’s have some more.

Those are three drams, the Longrow Red all but sold out now so we look forward to the next one’s release. All in all, I love winter and the drams that the weather calls for; as long as it is not too long a winter and that we can see the end in sight and look towards our springtime selections.

Slainte mhor.

Michael F Fraser Milne is the owner of Whisky Galore in Christchurch. whiskygalore.co.nz

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 61

SPIRITS NEWS

Diageo national champ crowned Auckland bar tender Philip Spector will compete in South Africa in August at the 2015 Diageo World Class competition

Philip Spector

SOUTH AFRICA’S dramatic scenery will form the backdrop to one of the world’s most hotly sought after drinks titles; the Diageo Reserve World Class Global Final in August, where Aucklander Philip Spector, will compete.

Spector works at Racket bar in Auckland and won the Diageo Reserve World Class National Final in June, which was held at Seafarers in Auckland.

He won against three other finalists from Auckland and one from Wellington; Alison Kwan from 1885 Basement, Bill Scott from Mexico, Lorietta Bahr from Matterhorn and Ray Letoa of Roxy Cinema Miramar, Wellington.

All five finalists completed a series of challenges beginning in February, which tested not only their bartending skills but also their business acumen, culminating in the national June final for the topranking entrants.

Spector’s winning cocktail was based on Johnnie Walker Gold Label and named The Golden Ticket.

“It’s hard to convey just how much this win means to me,” Spector says. “I’ve been totally focused for months on creating a 62 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

cocktail that would wow the judges so this win makes all the preparation totally worth it.”

He is now looking forward to heading to South Africa where he will compete against the world’s best mixologists to win the title of World’s Best Bartender.

This highly-coveted international title attracted approximately 15,000 mixologists to enter the competition this year.

Calem Chadwick, Diageo Reserve World Class spokesperson for New Zealand, says Spector showed real creativity and talent at the national final that resulted in him being crowned the winner.

“The level of competition has been exceptional and Philip should be very proud of making it through to the Global Final.”

The judges at the Diageo Reserve World Class National Final were chef Sid Sahrawat; Diageo luxury spirits ambassadors for Lion, Calem Chadwick and Chase Bickerton.

The judging was followed by an evening session where over 80 guests were invited to sample the cocktails and participate in a People’s Choice Judging Round. This involved sampling the finalists’ creations.

Simply Pure wins again THE MAKERS of New Zealand’s newest gin and vodka brand, Simply Pure, have done it again, this time winning gold medals for both white spirits at the 2015 US SIP awards.

Simply Pure owner, founder and CEO Peter Darroch says the awards for the brand are now too numerous to stick them all on the bottles.

“It’s getting silly in the best possible way. If we put all the awards on the bottles, you wouldn’t be able to see the label.”

The Simply Pure line up of awards to date includes five awards in 2014, including Blue Duck Rare Vodka being awarded the top gong at the San Francisco International Spirit Competition.

This year, Blue Duck was also named as one of the Top 10 Vodka in the World for Shortlist Magazine 2015 as well as its sibling, Black Robin Rare Gin being awarded a double gold medal in The Fifty Best Awards.

CINNAMON AND VANILLA BLEND.

JagermeisterNZ Enjoy responsibly.

Rural bar bliss Times are changing for a general store, post office and knitting shop, which now has a new identity in Whitford, south of Auckland

Distributed by : Federal Merchants & Co. Ph: 0800 846 824 E: info@federalmerchants.co.nz W: federalmerchants.co.nz

THE NAME Whitford tends to conjure up images of jodpur-clad rural women with their pony loving daughters and four-wheel drives rather than gastro pubs, but the area’s former general store has just been turned into a destination dining venue – with bar. In other words; a gastro pub.

The building has served since 1910 as a supply store, post office, knitting shop, restaurant and, at one time, as a brothel.

It is now beginning a new chapter as home to the gastropub, Five Stags, owned by John East.

The historic colonial building is now home to comfortable leather couches, booth seating, tartan and timber decorative effects and a range of memorabilia to recall its life over the past century. A wine cellar now occupies the space left by the original post office vault while a new bar sits centrally within the building.

Large plate dishes include slow cooked beef short ribs with spicy L&P and Wild Turkey glaze and crispy duck fat potatoes, and the Captain Cooker; a two person serve of roasted pork with parmesan, lemon and sage, and baked creamy sweet corn.

Chef Jonny Murray has also added a range of small bite-sized portions on plates to appeal to those who

want a snack or tapas style menu rather than a full meal. These include seared smoked duck breast with cherry compote, preserved orange and port glaze; country terrine and a hot smoked South Island salmon dish served with fresh dill, pickle, sour cream and rye bread.

At the bar, there is a wide choice of premium and craft beers, including Stella Artois, Steinlager Classic, Speight’s Gold Medal Ale and Mac’s Gold.

The wine list features brands including The bar includes a wide Wither Hills, The Ned, choice of premium and the Marisco Kings craft beers, including Series, Mt Difficulty Stella Artois, Steinlager and Huntaway – as Classic, Speight’s Gold well as unlisted bottles Medal Ale and Mac’s from the new in-house Gold with wine brands wine cellar. including Wither Hills, Five Stags proprietor The Ned, the Marisco John East is strongly Kings Series, Mt involved in Pakuranga Difficulty and Huntaway Rugby Club where he – as well as unlisted sits on the board, and bottles from the new inhe lives in Howick with house wine cellar. his partner Jane.

“Growing up around here, the general store has always been part of my life, so it’s a real treat to own her after all these years. She has so much history and such a special place in the community, we hope to honour that and steer her well for years to come.”

Five Stags is open seven days from 11am to midnight at 1 Whitford Wharf Road, Whitford, Auckland, phone 09 530 8866 facebook.com/5stagswhitford

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WHAT’S NEW

Bosch’s new tray

Saintly Merlot

Promising Pinot

Kiss goodbye to hand washing wine glasses by using the new Bosch GlassSecure Tray.

The tray works for different sized dishwashers and can hold between 4 and 16 glasses. The new tray is available free of charge during September and October (or while stocks last) to purchasers of specific models of Bosch Dishwashers; who will receive a GlassSecure Tray and a set of four Schott Zwiesel wine glasses.

2013 Saint Clair Pioneer Block RRP $37.90 Plateau 17 Merlot

2014 Saint Claire Pioneer Block 14 Doctor’s Creek Pinot Noir RRP $37.90

The family owned Marlborough winery, Saint Clair Family Estate, has expanded its range to include a new wine made with grapes grown in the Gimblett Gravels region of Hawke’s Bay. The first Saint Clair wine from the gravels is the 2013 Pioneer Block 17 Plateau Merlot, made from grapes grown on the free-draining deep gravel soils, which are naturally low in fertility and assist heat storage for the vines, resulting in richly flavoursome, ripe tasting reds with concentrated fruit flavours.

The new Pioneer Block 14 Doctor’s Creek Pinot Noir is the latest vintage of a wine produced each year since 2007 from Doctor’s Creek vineyard, which is southwest of Blenheim.

The grapes on this north facing vineyard are planted on clay soils, which devigorates the vines. Doctor’s Creek is named after the original land owner; a wellknown doctor in the area.

Bosch products are available at all Bosch approved retailers. For more information visit: bosch-home.co.nz, or phone 0800 807 723.

The new Bosch Glass Secure Tray costs $79; product code: SMZ5300.

This wine is available through Negociants NZ, from the Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen and on saintclair.co.nz

This wine is available through Negociants NZ, from the Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen and on saintclair.co.nz

New Tempranillo

New Thai Dry Ginger

2013 Church Road McDonald Series Hawke’s Bay Tempranillo RRP $26.59

The makers of East Imperial mixers have introduced a new addition to their range; East Imperial Thai Dry Ginger Ale. The new spicy Thai Dry Ginger Ale is made using a spice extract from natural ginger, which is sourced from Thailand.

Like the rest of the range, it contains what its makers describe as a relatively low 10.5g per serving size.

This combination of wholesome, real ingredients and zero additives results in an attractive, light-coloured beverage; a noticeable style contrast to the dark golden hue of traditional ginger ale.

Tempranillo is now the fourth most planted grape variety in the world but this wine is the first for Hawke’s Bay winery, Church Road, whose winemaker Chris Scott is well known for experimenting with relatively unknown grapes and wine styles.

The word ‘temprano’ means early in Spain; where Tempranillo originally comes from – it is best known as the key ingredient in the wines of Rioja in northern Spain.

The new 2013 Church Road McDonald Series Hawke’s Bay Tempranillo is available now. churchroad.co.nz

66 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

East Imperial Thai Dry Ginger Ale is available in New Zealand now and sells in four packs for RRP $9.99 or in a case of 24 for RRP $54.

ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCT IN DRINKSBIZ WHAT’S NEW...

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WHAT’S NEW

Two for tea

Pinot potential

French clones

The makers of Fuze Tea have launched their peach and lemon teas in a multi-serve option, giving customers a new 1.25 litre bottle in retail.

The teas were previously only available in single serve options but the new size will be available in both flavours in New World and Pak’nSave supermarkets.

The multi-serve option will be available exclusively to Foodstuffs supermarket outlets; Pak’nSAVE and New World.

2013 Ara Select Block Pinot Noir RRP $42.99 Marlborough M62

2013 Ara Select Block Pinot Noir RRP $42.99 Marlborough M54

The Ara vineyard is an elaborate and large matrix of 100 micro blocks, each one with its own individual planting and soil characteristics. This variation adds a wide range of possible options for winemakers to draw on in creating wines such as this new M62 Pinot Noir.

It was released this year and is made with grapes grown on free draining, fine alluvial soils overlying a clay base.

This is a full bodied new Marlborough Pinot Noir, which highlights the depth of bright fruit flavour and savoury complexity that this country’s largest wine region can deliver in ripe black grapes.

The new 2012 Ara Select Block K54 Pinot Noir is made from French Pinot Noir clones known as Pommard and Dijon 777; two highly sought after variations on the Pinot Noir theme, which combine to deliver intense rich red fruit flavours in Pinot Noir. This new release is available now from Winegrowers of Ara in Marlborough. arawines.com

arawines.com

Stoneleigh adds Merlot King of the Hill

Variety is the spice

2014 Stoneleigh Latitude Marlborough Merlot

2014 Villa Maria Verdelho RRP $29-30

RRP $22.59.

Merlot lovers can now enjoy the new 2014 Stoneleigh Latitude Marlborough Merlot, which winemaker Jamie Marfell describes as a deep and broody red that could be enjoyed as an accompaniment to succulent rich red meat dishes such as lamb, wild game and roast beef served with dark sauces.

The Stoneleigh Latitude range now comprises six wines including the new Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Rosé and Pinot Noir. stoneleigh.co.nz

2013 Elephant Hill Merlot Malbec RRP $34

Corks were popping at Te Awanga’s Elephant Hill winery on the coast south of Napier when its 2013 Merlot Malbec won the Trophy for Best New Zealand Red Wine at the 2015 International Wine Challenge in London.

The win consolidates high ratings from Master of Wine Bob Campbell, who has awarded it 94/100 points and five stars.

“We are delighted to see so many great wines from so many different countries. We do our best to find the top wines out of the thousands of wines that are entered. These wines are the best of the best from a more diverse range of countries than ever before,” said Charles Metcalfe, co-chairman of the IWC.

Variety is the spice of you know what and Verdelho is a key component of that diversity in Villa Maria’s vast wine stable; the largest family owned New Zealand winery, founded by Sir George Fistonich, whose passion for diversity knows few bounds.

This white is fresh, full bodied, nutty and bone dry – a white with character, which seems to beg for seafood but also drinks well as an aperitif, pre-meal – or late afternoon – wine. villamaria.co.nz

elephanthill.co.nz

DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015 67

LAST REQUESTS

Meg Abbot-Walker receiving the Negociants Outstanding Wine Service Professional award from Andrew Parkinson of Negociants NZ.

“The only ‘conventional boundary’ that needs to be broken is this line between people who ‘know about wine’ and people who don’t.”

A Lewisham winner

Let’s hear it from the winner of this year’s Lewisham Awards Negociants Outstanding Wine Service Professional, Meg Abbott-Walker, of Masu in Auckland’s CBD

One of the biggest challenges is sourcing wines in the large quantities needed for a restaurant such as Masu; the type of wineries we choose to work with (smaller boutique producers who make handcrafted wines in small amounts) may only be able to give us small allocations of certain wines, so the wine list needs constant attention.

What would you like to see happen in restaurants and cafés with wine?

I would like to see more emphasis on training of staff so that there is a greater understanding of wine and other beverages and their role in the dining out experience. The focus should be on making wine accessible and fun to experiment with – not intimidating.

What’s your ultimate dream wine?

Any wine that surprises me and is soulful 68 DRINKSBIZ AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

and complex as well as delicious. It could be experimental or classic; both have equal merits in my eyes.

Who or what gives you inspiration each day?

I like the idea of connecting people – myself, my family and friends, coworkers and our customers and wider community. Wine can definitely play a role in doing that.

How important is it to create a wine list that breaks conventional boundaries?

I have had a few conversations about this recently. New wine list designs and concepts can be cool but they can also be a bit scary for some people. But... “conventional” wine lists were scary too: they were often huge and impenetrable and assumed you knew the difference between Burgundy and Bordeaux. I think the only “conventional boundary” that really needs to be broken is this line

between people who “know about wine” and people who don’t. Any wine list that encourages everyone to get involved with wine is important.

Was it always a dream from an early age that you would pursue a career in wine?

Not really ha ha. I used to be a singer and actor but gradually that felt less important to me in comparison to this whole hospitality and wine community. Then a few years ago wine became unequivocally my main interest and passion.

What is your favourite food and drink combination?

Champagne or Chablis with oysters or sashimi.

Who would you want to swap places with for a day?

I would swap places for a day with Jancis Robinson Master of Wine; in my daydreams she is my mentor.

Libby Robinson Photography

What are the biggest challenges for you in working at a busy CBD restaurant?

BOOST BEVERAGE SALES WITH PERRIER

The Ultimate Refreshment PERRIER, captured at the source, boasts one of the highest levels of carbonation among mineral waters with 7g/L of natural Carbon Dioxide. Additionally, the low sodium content of PERRIER makes it the perfect refreshment for any occasion.

• No Artificial Flavours, Colours or Sweeteners • Zero Calories • Available in Natural, Lemon and Lime - 750ml and 4 x 330ml

ORDER YOUR PERRIER TODAY Now Distributed by Federal Merchants & Co. Ph: 0800 846 824 | E: info@federalmerchants.co.nz | W: federalmerchants.co.nz

EVEN AWARD WINNING WINES DESERVE A MAKE-OVER…

HOOKMVKSNEWDB PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRISTOPHER DAVID THOMPSON

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NEW DESIGN & VINTAGES AVAILABLE NOW { * THE ORIGINAL KINGS SERIES WON DOUBLE-GOLD FOR LABEL DESIGN, SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITION 2013}

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

www.marisco.co.nz