I amsterdam City Guide SUMMER AUTUMN 2022

Eat & drink City Guide | summer/autumn 2022

The Amsterdam hip list Top terraces Plant-based eateries

Around town Local’s top tips Famous fisherman’s villages The best quirky shops

What’s on Unmissable shows Small & special museums Summer festivals

City Guide

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Amsterdam’s Fashion DNA THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE S U M M E R /A U T U M N 2 0 2 2

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Contents 5

THE FASHION ISSUE

I

f you were inclined to study the history of Amsterdam, Dam Square would be a good place to start. Not WELCOME only because it is the starting point of the Amsterdam may not boast international fashion city, built in the second half of the 13th shows or world-famous brands, but it does have a century as a dam in the Amstel River, but style all of its own. This is Amsterdam’s fashion DNA. also because in later ages it has always been the focal point of change. Back in the late 1960s – when John Lennon and Yoko Ono held their bed-in protest in AmMAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY sterdam – hippies from all over the Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours world flocked here to spread or a weekend, make the most of every their message of love, peace hour with our itineraries.

For more information about and happiness, dressed in Amsterdam, jeans and sandals and brightly visit our website: iamsterdam.com coloured Indian-style clothes.

The punk era almost seamlessWHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM ly followed. In the late 1970s, the What's happening in Amsterdam when it scene on Dam Square had changed comes to dining (and snacking), vegan hotspots into a more aggressive, disenchanted form and the best terraces to spend a sunny afternoon. of protest propagated by punks and squatters sporting mohawks, leather jackets and safety-pin piercings.

Another decade later, dance culture WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO stepped in and Dam Square was taken From world-famous museums and attractions to over by wild-eyed night owls in tracksuits, the best gigs and concert halls, there’s always out on a weekend-long dance marathon. something to see and do in Amsterdam.

As you will read in our cover story (page 6), today’s fashion in Amsterdam reflects all these countercultural influences. High fashion has also conquered this city and EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS once again Dam Square is at the heart of There’s a new discovery around every corner, from the scene: high fashion brands abound new hip hangouts in upcoming neighbourhoods to in the square’s chic de Bijenkorf departhidden gems in the city centre. ment store, while vintage clothing shops and the small boutiques of top-notch local fashion designers dominate fashion districts such as the Zeedijk and the Nine DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA Streets that skirt around it. Fashion may Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam and not have been the first thing you had in mind discover shopping spots, incredible nature and when coming here, but it might just as well unmissable experiences. have been. If shopping is on your agenda, Dam Square is a good place to start.

06 Fashion of Amsterdam

© GERT JAN VAN ROOIJ

13 Your Trip

19 Eat & Drink

© RONALD VAN WEEREN

31 What's On

© HERMAN VAN HEUSDEN

49 City Guide

83 Day Trips

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam City Guide

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION TURN TO PAGE 97

Cover image: Celisze.Photography, Model: Naomi Meijer

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Up Front 6 | TEXT: VITA VAN DE SANDT

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Nxt Museum’s new exhibition UFO – Unidentified Fluid Other explores the boundaries of our fashion identity through art and technology.

7

11 JUNE-JUNE 2023, NXTMUSEUM.COM

Amsterdam’s Fashion DNA Amsterdam may not boast Paris’ international fashion shows or London’s famous brands (though there are a few not to miss!), but it does have a style all of its own.

F

ashion, clothes, style: we are all involved in fashion, whether we want to be or not. What we wear not only reflects ordinary facts, such as the local weather, but also reveals cultural information and, of course, our personalities. It takes a person to turn clothes into style. So what does that style look like in Amsterdam? Pay attention to the street and you’ll notice immediately that we are extremely practical people who put comfort first. With bicycles being the main means of transport, you won’t see many pencil skirts around – although men in suits on bikes are a pretty common sight. Add our Calvinistic origins into the mix – dictating we prefer not to stand out too much – and you’ll see that plain

and practical is what we’re all about.

But within those cultural boundaries, there is still room for variation and experimentation. After all, we are also a liberal, innovative and curious bunch.

The tolerant city

Amsterdam’s reputation as a liberal place goes back to the 17th century.

Immigrants from all over Europe (including philosophers such as Spinoza and Descartes) settled in Amsterdam, and freedom of expression was celebrated. Centuries later, the Dutch capital is still a free-spirited city in which the urban streetscape is constantly evolving thanks to its inhabitants. Immigrants throughout the ages have shaped and continue to

SA ND T © VITA VA N DE

››

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‘Amsterdammers never feel the pressure to care too much about fashion’

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Up Front 8 | STYLE LEADER

shape our language, economy and fashion.

The famous millstone collar that was introduced by the Spanish and can be seen in portraits by Frans Hals continues to inspire contemporary fashion designers such as Iris van Herpen, for example.

In the late 1960s, a second liberal revolution came around. So-called provo’s (short for provocateurs) protested on the streets and hippies ruled Dam Square. Playfulness and freedom dominated these counter-culture movements while fashion designers such as Fong Leng – known for her dramatic and colourful long dresses – became iconic. Fast-forward 20 years and Amsterdam was a leading light in dance culture that quickly spread around the world. Nightlife encour-

aged people to express Fong Leng different versions of themselves, safe in the privacy of a club.

It was at the same time that the city hosted the world’s first Gay Pride, with the extravagantly dressed participants of the canal parade as its highlight. Today, Amsterdam still embodies a tolerant and determined character that’s never afraid to make a statement.

It’s not unusual to see men in heels and dresses or people sporting brightly coloured hair.

The practical city

However extravagant and free they may be, Amsterdammers never feel the pressure to care too much about fashion. The sober attitude and sensible mindset that came from Calvinism (and the weather) prevail, and affordability and wearability rule our day-to-day wear. And what says ‘practicality’ better than jeans? Am-

Gay Pride

sterdam boasts one of the highest densi ties of homegrown denim companies in the world. Not only is it the birthplace of prominent denim labels such as G-Star RAW and Denham, but the European headquarters for global denim brands are also concentrated here. Labs and workshops dedicated to denim innovation such as The House of Denim, Denim City AMS and Denim Days contribute to making Amsterdam a hub for the denim industry. It only takes a quick look around to notice how much we love our denim, with all genders owning an average of five pairs of jeans. Adriano Goldschmied, the cofounder of Italian denim label Diesel and nicknamed ‘the Godfather of denim’, once affirmed that ‘the Dutch have jeans in their blood’. Plain jeans, a sweater and sneakers are undoubtedly our preferred ‘fashion look’.

Streetwear

Zeedijk is the place to be if you are looking for unique streetwear, with Patta as one of the biggest shops on the list. It owns part of its success to the connection people feel with the brand. Patta means ‘shoe’ in Surinamese, a reference to the limited-edition sneakers they first started selling. These days, they have their own in-house brand that is hugely popular. Another shop not to miss is The New Originals: performance wear for creatives, because ‘creatives are the new athletes’. Ever thought of buying a lavender suit in suede?

Bonne Suits has got you covered with their ‘poor man’s suits’. A little out of the city centre Daily Paper (Bilderdijkstraat 131) combines the African heritage of its founders with a passion for contemporary fashion, resulting in vibrant streetwear. Something different is Maha (Vijzelstraat 129): clothes for women, but in the same style as their boyfriend’s.

Patta

The New Originals

Bonne Suits

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Is fashion week dead? Amsterdam’s sustainable fashion museum Fashion for Good sheds light on the role of the international shows with their exhibition Fashion Week: A New Era. 20 MAY-OCTOBER, FASHIONFORGOOD.COM

9

Denim capital

The creative city

Amsterdam’s streetwear is all about comfort and practicality mixed with self-expression.

Streetwear brands are on the rise, selling a lifestyle rather than just clothes. Instead of simply making a profit, these companies tend to be fuelled by love, necessity, hard work and a clear vision. Brands such as Patta nurture community, collaboration and artistic expression with a ‘dream big’ motto that shows how anyone can wear a certain look and start a trend – or even a brand – of their own. Their head office in the Zeedijk area of the city centre is now an epicentre for the Amsterdam fashion industry. Once associated with drugs and prostitution, the street is now home to well-known international names such as Stüssy and Black Comme des Garçons as well as local brands Bonne Suits, SMIB and The New Originals. You’ll find people proudly wearing logos, special-edition sneakers in bold colours, cross body bags, baggy hoodies and pants, and designer sunglasses.

Amsterdam is the proud jeans capital of the world. Tenue de Nîmes, a household name for high-end jeans on the Elandsgracht, Nudie Jeans in the Nine Streets with its sustainable denim, Denham’s premium jeans and Mick Keus with his custom-fit reconstructions, were all born right here. And don’t forget all-time favourites G-Star RAW, Kuyichi and Kings Of Indigo. To learn more about denim, check out the workshop and upcycling facility Denim City (Hannie Dankbaarpassage 22), which also hosts an annual jeans festival.

Get inspired and you might just find your perfect pair of not-sonew jeans.

››

Vintage hunting

As well as its vintage clothing markets, Amsterdam also has a wide variety of boutiques and kilo stores, where you pay based on weight.

Secondhand shop chains Episode and Zipper have locations throughout the city, in the Nine Streets you’ll find vintage gem Laura Dols, and on Haarlemmerstraat there’s Rumors Vintage and Betty Jane. If you are visiting the Albert Cuyp market, make sure to step behind the stalls and you’ll be surprised by the number of vintage shops. Close by there’s also Marbles Vintage, Penny Lane and Thrift Shop with their curated selections of designer items. And it doesn’t stop there: fashion retailer H&M will open a secondhand shop in Amsterdam Noord this year.

Vond

Episode

Laura Dols

Waterlooplein

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Up Front

Baskèts has a mission: to provide the Amsterdam sneaker scene with fashionable and exclusive sneakers, clothing and accessories.

10 | STYLE LEADER

ELANDSGRACHT 75, GERARD DOUSTRAAT 96

The sustainable city

A hub for sustainability, Amsterdam breathes innovative talent. Many fashion houses reuse, recycle and upcycle existing materials. Sustainability platform Fashion for Good strategically chose the city for its headquarters, as well as a museum committed to its climate-conscious message. Amsterdam is simultaneously home to several exceptional designers specialised in this area: Ronald van der Kemp is a pioneer of sustainable high fashion, Duran Lantink repurposes discarded luxury garments, Bas Kosters reuses textile waste, Karim Adduchi gained recognition with his orange peel silk dress, and Iris van Herpen is famous for her sculpted 3D-printed garments.

Plenty of shops also offer sustainable clothing labels (check out the website cosh.eco for a helpful overview). Another big trend in Amsterdam is the love for vintage threads. Markets such as Waterlooplein, Noordermarkt and the monthly IJ-Hallen in Amsterdam Noord, as well

well. You can spot every imaginable combination of styles and periods – from the Roaring Twenties to the glitzy Noughties – going beyond what’s cool or new.

The experimental city

Amsterdam is undoubtedly a city of contrasts. Practicality may be Amsterdam’s middle name, but it is also Bas Kosters an experimental city that’s curious about new things and is as shops such as Kilocontinuously developing. The shop (where you pay younger generation is always for your finds by the on the lookout for what’s kilo) and Penny Lane unique and unfamiliar, just as make Amsterdam a local brands keep innovating, true vintage heaven. collaborating and merging their Karim Adduchi Racks full of quality leathindividual collections rather than er jackets, secondhand jeans competing with one another. It seems and old-school Adidas or Ralph Lauren, that the freedom of expressing personal with the odd high-fashion item, mean values and dressing how you like is deeply you can spend hours on end rummaging rooted in the city’s DNA. Ultimately, in for bargains. Walking around one of the Amsterdam it is never about being many vintage markets or shops, be sure stylish or trendy, but about to pay attention to the other shoppers as individuality.

››

Success brands

Amsterdam brands pay tribute to the city’s free spirit. Scotch & Soda celebrates the power of self-expression with bold prints. Unrestricted by rules and expectations (and underwires), Love Stories’ lingerie is known for its comfortable yet iconic mismatch bralettes. For innovative eyewear that is as fashionable as any garment, check out Ace & Tate. Meanwhile, Filling Pieces, which started out with just one premium sneaker at a fair price, now has a collection of sneakers for everyone.

Likewise, Olaf Hussein began making his own jeans but has expanded to collections with modern looks and subtle statements. Then there is Stieglitz, bringing different worlds together and building a community, representing the strength of women through eclectic prints.

Filling Pieces

Stieglitz

Olaf Hussein

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2200

Find out more!

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Your Trip

14 Twelve Hours 15 Twenty-four Hours 16 Forty-eight Hours

How to spend your time in 12, 24 or 48 hours

© ARTIS, RONALD VAN WEEREN

TEXT: LESIA JOUKOVA

While away the evening at Artis

Keep your eyes peeled for the Artis summer nights at the weekends. Concerts, performances and lectures will be the perfect companion for a stroll through this beloved zoo for adults and children alike (free with the I amsterdam City Card). To complete your outing, visit the Micropia museum and learn about the invisible world of microbes.

DURATION: 3 HOURS

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Your Trip 14 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

Admire the view over tiled rooftops from Blue Amsterdam,, a panoramic café tucked away on the top floor of the Kalverpassage.

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to spend your time in…

Cycle through the city

Grab a bike (free with the I amsterdam City Card at several bike rental shops) and set out to explore Amsterdam like a local, but keep in mind that the heart of the city is not for the faint of heart.

For a pleasant couple of hours, head towards the Vondelpark and away from the crowds or exchange the centre for the lush Amstelpark.

Enjoy a canal cruise

You haven’t been to Amsterdam until you’ve taken in the city from the water.

Catch a boat tour and glide under the bridges and past the waterside mansions of the Amsterdam canal belt as you learn about its rich history. Free with the I amsterdam City Card!

DURATION: 1 HOUR

12

hours in Amsterdam

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Go mad for cheese

Toast the day with a rooftop cocktail

DURATION: 1 HOUR

1 HOUR

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Take in the city’s atmosphere with a drink in hand over at the Volkshotel’s panoramic rooftop bar Canvas. Enjoy the easy-going atmosphere and sway with the music at the weekends, or descend to their Doka club for an alternative night out.

DURATION:

© MARK GROENEVELD

© HEN RI WILL IG

Amsterdam has no shortage of delicious cheese experiences.

There’s Kaasbar Amsterdam, which serves its artisan cheese sushi-style on a conveyor belt; Fromagerie Abraham Kef’s tasting room; and Henri Willig cheese stores that highlight the best local flavours, from Gouda to goat’s cheese.

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24

15

hours in Amsterdam

Get your I amsterdam City Card for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Compare and contrast classic and modern art

© GERT-JAN VAN ROOIJ

© BAS UTERWIJK

Head to the Museumplein to indulge in all manner of art, from the modern installations of the Stedelijk and Moco Museum to the treasure troves of the Dutch masters in the Rijksmuseum.

Remember to book your tickets in advance to avoid missing out. All free with the I amsterdam City Card!

© KOEN SMILDE

DURATION: 3-4 HOURS

Jazz it up at Bimhuis

There’s nothing like the sweet sound of jazz to round off the day. Catch a concert (you’ll get a discount with the I amsterdam City Card) in the sleek and modern Bimhuis concert hall overlooking the waters of the IJ. DUR ATION: 1.5 HOURS

Vintage shopping in De Negen Straatjes

Hunt for vintage gems in the many cosy shops hiding within the Negen Straatjes, nine small bustling streets in Amsterdam’s UNESCO-protected canal ring. There is so much to explore here, but for your share of stylish fashion finds start with Bij Ons Vintage, Episode and Laura Dols. (For those in need of an extra vintage fix, turn to page 6.)

Lunch in De Waag

Feel the city’s history as soon as you set foot inside De Waag. The only surviving city gate dating back to the 15th century is now a restaurant with an impeccable terrace that lends a view of the Nieuwmarkt square, perfect for a little people-watching. You’ll get a discount with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

DURATION: 1 HOUR

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16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

Take in the contemporary art and Dutch landscapes

48

hours in Amsterdam

© MIKE BINK FOTOFRAFIE

Enjoy the views on your tram ride to the Cobra Museum of Modern Art, which boasts a rich collection of contemporary artworks

by Karel Appel, Asger Jorn and others. While you’re there, jump on a bus (bus line 356) to Molen van Sloten: a working polder windmill that receives visitors. Both are free with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

© PASCAL-FIELMICH

Your Trip

Stock up on peanut butter of every taste imaginable at De Pindakaaswinkel, from caramel sea salt to chilli pepper and lemongrass.

Admire the Zaanse Schans windmills

Catch a train from Amsterdam to explore the iconic windmill region of the Zaanse Schans. Wander among Dutch wooden houses, watch how clogs are made and don’t miss the delicious Verkade Experience, which transports you into an early 20th-century biscuit and chocolate factory (free with the I amsterdam City Card).

DURATION: 5 HOURS

Discover Amsterdam’s quirky side © TK PHOTOGRAPHY

Step off the well-trodden path to discover Amsterdam’s secrets, starting with the extensive collection of the Amsterdam Pipe Museum.

Continue to the Geelvinck Pianola Museum celebrating the musical world of automatic pianos, then tour the Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder: a 17th-century canal house concealing an attic church.

Free with your I amsterdam City Card.

Soak in the sun on a secret terrace

Catch some rays at Amsterdam’s best-hidden terraces, such as the farm-charm backyard of the Vergulden Eenhoorn, the courtyard splendour of Lion Noir, and the indulgent oasis of greenery in the Canal House hotel. For even more sunny terraces, see page 24.

DUR ATION: 3 HOURS

DURATION: 1 HOUR

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© PASCAL-FIELMICH

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996.

She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

Dam Life TEXT: LAUREN COMITEAU |

17

Three’s a charm… or is it?

For such a reserved, pragmatic and admittedly thrifty lot, the Dutch bestowing three kisses during both greeting and departure seems uncharacteristically excessive – not to mention time-consuming.

‘A

h, the Dutch and threes,’ my Amsterdam friend commented at my pre-COVID birthday celebration, where the Dutch rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’ sent me off with its traditional three ‘hoeras!’ to blow out more candles than any one cake should ever have to hold. As we were air kissing goodbye in triplicate, I got to thinking: What is it with Dutch people and threes? While it may have nothing to do with genetic coding or even ancient custom, Amsterdam visitors won’t be able to help notice the prevalence of threes in their midst.  The city’s coat of arms – those three vertical XXX’s – adorn every phallicshaped pole, or Amsterdammertje, in the city. While they are actually St. Andrew’s Crosses, you will find them gracing more worldly souvenirs such

as boxer shorts and big-breasted ceramic ashtrays in promotion of Amsterdam’s triple X-rated Red Light District.  There’s the Museumplein and the troika of art institutions that encircle it: the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh and the Stedelijk. An essential stop for all art lovers, tram 3 will drop you off virtually in the lobby of the Stedelijk.  The royal couple has not one, not two, but three princesses. (Bonus points if you can name them. Hint: They all begin with the letter A, or as King Willem-Alexander calls them, his A-Team.)  When the 2022 World Cup kicks off in November in Qatar with the Netherlands taking on Senegal, Orange fever will be high. But guess how many times the Dutch team won that most coveted of football titles? Unfortu-

nately, zero. But you will impress locals by knowing that the orangeclad national team made it to the finals three glorious times. Fingers crossed that record will be broken by Christmas.

As for the traditional Dutch triple kiss, though, it looks as if COVID may have finally killed it off. First popularised in the Netherlands in the 1970s, surveys show people are reluctant to go back to the national cumbersome kisses, preferring to reinstate the ohso-Dutch handshake instead now that social distancing is gone.

I took my own informal poll of some Dutch friends. Two couldn’t get rid of the triple kiss fast enough. There was just one holdout, who said she will continue with the triple kiss, but only for people she actually likes.

You may want to keep count.

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Eat & Drink

Where to indulge in Amsterdam TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

20 The Amsterdam Hip List 23 Easy Italian 24 Top Terraces 25 Fine Dining: Flore 26 Plant-led Plates 28 North American Food 29 Fine Dining: Obsidian

by Graphite

Wils Bakery Café

What started as a lockdown experiment has become a place ‘where the baking craft and the conviviality of a French bistro come together’.

On the a la carte menu you’ll find the traditional Dutch workman’s lunch known as a 12-uurtje (soup, salad and a sandwich for €17.50) and bistro classics such as oysters (from €4), garlicky escargot (€12) and oeufs mayonaise (€7). There’s also a threeor four-course chef’s menu (from €35) featuring more elevated dishes.

Tip: don’t leave without an armful of ancient grain bread.

STADIONPLEIN 24 WILSBAKERYCAFE.NL

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Eat & Drink

20 | HOT AND HAPPENING

The Rose Garden Margarita (€15) – a beautiful blend of rose petal-infused Don Julio Blanco tequila, apricot, lime and Peychaud’s Bitters – from the new Archives menu at Pulitzer’s Bar is a must-try.

KEIZERSGRACHT 234 PULITZERSBAR.NL

Stand-out signatures

A memorable dish can be a mere morsel, like the Indonesian-spiced satay ayam amuse-bouche (part of the €175 chef’s menu) at Daalder (Postjesweg 1, daalderamsterdam.nl) or a veggie pie (€19.50) so lovingly made it almost makes you weep at Slagerij de Beurs (Amstelstraat 9, slagerijdebeurs.nl). Hot, sour, salty, sweet: all four Asian flavour pillars marry in the Khao Soi curry noodle soup (€18.50) at Thai Thai Poppetje (Van Speijkstraat 157, thaithaipoppetje.nl) and the hand-pulled pork noodles (€14) at Xian Delicious Foods Express (Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 21, xiandeliciousfoodsexpress-amsterdam.nl). For local comfort food, try the slavink (rabbit meatloaf, part of a three-course menu for €35) at Wils Bakery Café (Stadionplein 24, wilsbakerycafe.nl) or the Dutch cheese fondue (€20) at Restaurant Smelt (Runstraat 12, restaurantsmelt.nl).

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With white chocolate, raspberry, cookies and sprinkles, the latest Tony’s Chocolonely flavour (€2.89 from most supermarkets) is a sure-fire hit.

The Amsterdam Hip List Your essential overview of what to eat and drink right now in the city’s buzzing food scene. From the most-hyped vegan cruffins and the hottest noodle bowls to the must-try beverages du moment.

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© LYAN VAN FURTH

e could take the pulse of Amsterdam’s food scene by the staggering array of restaurants that have bravely opened in the past year or we could look at the number of new Michelin stars awarded, but instead, we’ve decided to focus on some of the most exceptional food and drink we’ve enjoyed this year – along with seemingly everyone else. Because when something is truly delicious in Amsterdam, it seems like everyone’s gotten the memo. When it comes to trending comestibles, there was a time when our wee city was five years behind metropoles such as New York, Paris and London (okay, we were a little late to the game with omakase) but these days Amsterdammers are chomping down on cruffins, sandos and fried chicken like many other urbanites. And we’re creating trends of our own, too. Here, then, is our overview of Amsterdam’s current food hypes that do live up to the buzz.

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Elevated sandwiches

We have the lockdown to thank for raising the city’s sandwich game.

Adding an entirely new category between burger and toastie, the UFO-shaped Oishii bun (Nieuwe Kerkstraat 22, oishiibun.com) is out of this world. The Seoul (€12.75) with slow-roasted pork belly, kimchi and Korean BBQ sauce is where it’s at. Ask for authentic grilled pork báhn mì (€9) and ye shall receive it at Viên (Tweede Hugo de Grootstraat 12, vien.nl). Mezzave ‘food boutique’ (Eerste van der Helststraat 47II, mezzave.com) is home to Amsterdam’s best short rib sandwich (€13).

Or, head to Chun Café (Berenstraat 8, chun-amsterdam. com) for its Instafamous Rib Eye Bulgogi toast (€11.50). And there’s Paindemie (Kinkerstraat 122, paindemie-amsterdam.com), prized for its cheeky puns and salted caramel French toast (€6.50).

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Eat & Drink

Voerman Vieux (€27.95 via drank.nl) has resurrected a long-forgotten Dutch spirit and created the ‘world’s first craft vieux’ – already a bartenders’ favourite.

22 | HOT AND HAPPENING

Amsterdam’s first omakase experience, Undercover (Wibautstraat 130, undercoveramsterdam.com) has wowed local foodies with its 20-course omakase feast (€210) since 2020. But lately, everyone’s been talking about the amazingly affordable omakase (from €23.30, pictured) at Sushi Fanatics (Andreas Bonnstraat 36, sushifanatics.nl).

© MOKUMISTA

Amazing Omakase

Everyone’s flocking to the recently opened SAINT-JEAN (Lindengracht 158, saintjean.nl) for plant-based yuzu curd or miso caramel cruffins (€4.50) that will make even the most ardent pastry lover forget all about butter.

Meanwhile, Baked

by Salvo’s fluff y, cream-filled maritozzi buns (a regional speciality from Rome) are a hit with Amsterdam foodies (€4.50 from Terre Lente, Westerstraat 55, terrelente.com).

Cinnamon buns are still all the rage and you’ll find the city’s best, along with brilliant speciality coffee, at 4850 (Camperstraat 48-50, 4850.nl). Or wash one down with an iced matcha latte (€4.90) at next-gen coffee bar YUSU. (Andreas Bonnstraat 2, yusu.coffee).

© MOKUMISTA

Sugar highs

Fabulous fried chicken Fried chicken is having its moment, with everything from drippy chicken & waffle dishes and fried chicken biscuits to fried chicken ‘popcorn’ on offer. For fried chicken and Southern biscuits made by North Carolina chefs, Biscuit Baby (Kinkerstraat 106) is your best bet. If you like it hot, Gangnam Chicken (Eerste Helmersstraat 251, Beukenweg 31, gangnamchicken.nl) offers authentically fiery Korean-fried – mostly sticky – chicken wings and tenders. Or follow the moveable feast of the best chicken burger purveyors in town, TokTok Amsterdam (check @toktok.ams) and Kip ‘n Drip (@kipndrip).

Lowlander Beer

This local craft brewer’s limited editions are always the talk of the town. There’s been a Love Ale with strawberry, rose and aromatic aphrodisiac damiana for Valentine’s Day and a zesty milkshake Tompouce I.P.A. for King’s Day (€2.50 via HEMA).

LOWL ANDER-B EER.COM HEMA.NL, VAR IO U S LOCATIONS

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© MOKUMISTA

Stop by Massimo Gelato for a taste of true artisan ice cream.

We recommend the ricotta & fig and (vegan) pistachio (from €2).

VARIOUS LOCATIONS MASSIMOGELATO.COM

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Bella Italia In a round-up of Italian restaurants, we can’t ignore Caffè Toscanini, famous for its Tuscan specialities since 1985, or Roberto’s, a decades-long haunt of the Italian embassy. But there are a few relative newcomers and unsung heroes you won’t find in your guidebook. Buon appetito!

TOZI

Segugio

Cicchetti (Italian small plates) play a leading role at this Zuidbased Venetian specialist, supported by an all-Italian cast of wines and classic cocktails. Do order the show-stealing Tonnarelli 'Cacio e Pepe' (black pepper pasta served from a wheel of cheese, €32 to share, or with truffle when in season).

Risotto aficionados should run on over to this recently renovated Centrum restaurant for its luxurious take on the classic Milanese dish (€23).

It’s rich and savoury, al dente without being chalky and obligingly oozing, or what the Italians call all’onda, ‘with a wave’.

KONINGINNEWEG 34-36 TOZIAMSTERDAM.NL

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 96 SEGUGIO.NL

PIZZA LAB

Spaghetteria Caffè

Head to Zuidas for classic thin-bottomed Neapolitan pizza with fluffy, blistered crusts and an ‘easy-going meltiness’. Or creations such as the La Porca (€17.50) with fior di latte Agerola, rosemary potatoes, porchetta IGP, grilled aubergine, spinach, smoked scamorza cheese from Sila, and lemon zest.

Part of the popular city-wide pasta chain, this new Westside spot offers a selection of deli sandwiches and a few pasta dishes. Tip: the rosemary-studded porchetta on freshly-baked sourdough ciabatta withwatercress and sage mayo (€9) is everything it ought to be.

GEORGE GERSHWINLAAN 534 PIZZALABAMSTERDAM.COM

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Enjoy award-winning organic brews at the famous windmill-adjacent De Molen tasting house or the pretty parkside ’t Blauwe Theehuis locale. Proost!

Eat & Drink

FUNENKADE 7, VONDELPARK 5 BROUWERIJHETIJ.NL

24 | ALFRESCO AMSTERDAM

Top Terraces Prefer your patios park adjacent, waterside, secreted away or perfectly poised for people-watching? We’ve got you covered (or not, as it were).

No Rules Vondelpark

Helling 7

Perched on an old shipyard slipway at the NDSM Wharf and constructed entirely of scrap metal and glass is a new all-day restaurant where the circular theme extends to the menu. The rooftop terrace, one of Amsterdam’s largest, offers great dockside views.

Situated in a listed building with magnificent park views, you should expect the unexpected at this rebellious restaurant, such as pizzettes with pepperoni and miso (€15.50) and Pornstar Martini cheesecake (€9.50).

VONDELPARK 3 NORULESVP.NL

T T MELISSAWEG 57 HELLING7.NL

Rouhi

Mossel & Gin

@ MOKUMISTA

Sit on leafy Spui square, in the heart of the Old Centre, and watch the world go by while feasting on the five-course fusion menu (€56) by French chef Renaud Goigoux (ex-RIJKS®, ex-Breda).

SPUI 10 ROUHI.NL

Mondi Caribbean Cuisine & Terrace

To invigorate the image of outmoded mussels and fries, this magnificently located specialist pairs six delicious riffs on the theme (from €20.50) with terrific gin and tonics in the heart of Westerpark.

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Vergulden Eenhoorn

At this unexpectedly rustic refuge off busy Wibautstraat, a large garden terrace with bench tables and beach chairs – perfect for urban picnics with locavore leanings – wraps around the monumental 1702 farmstead.

There's an outdoor jeu de boules track if you're feeling energetic.

Chef Justin Niessen’s Caribbean roots sing through in dishes such as jerk chicken (€18), which tastes great with beers on the College Hotel’s handsome hidden patio overlooking a former 19th-century school building.

ROELOF HARTSTR A AT 1 THECOLLEGEHOTEL.COM/MONDI

RINGDIJK 58 VERGULDENEENHOORN.NL

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Eat & Drink

Chef Bas van Kranen and Maitre D’ Wouter Denessen head up a dream team.

FINE DINING

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Enjoy an intimate fine-dining experience at the eleven-seater Flore restaurant, where the local ingredients are sourced from small organic farms and sustainable fishmongers.

S

ince chef Bas van Kranen took over the reins at what once was Hotel De l’Europe’s classic French Michelin-starred restaurant Bord’Eau, he has introduced lighter, brighter flavours and a more locally-focused, seasonal menu. A recent name and concept change shows that this new direction, which the chef calls ‘conscious fine dining’ will be continued. ‘By focusing on local products, foregoing dairy, and using sustainable produce

@ CHANTAL ARNTS

Locavore Heaven grown with the greatest care, our kitchen team remains motivated to cook even more consciously and creatively,’ says Van Kranen.

‘It makes us better cooks.’ The tasting menu changes weekly (from €70 for lunch), but may include Dutch snails with wild garlic, morels and smoked garlic foam or a perfectly poached Oosterschelde oyster with seaweed bouillon.

NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14 RESTAURANTFLORE.COM

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Eat & Drink

26 | PLANET-FRIENDLY

Amsterdam-based The Nice Company’s vegan popsicles, in flavours such as chocolate-hazelnut (€4.49 for five from organic supermarkets), are very nice indeed.

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You’ll find B-Liv (€6.50), ‘one of the world’s most sustainable (vegan) wines’ at Jumbo supermarket.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS JUMBO.COM

Plant-led Plates Forget the gloomy lentil salads of yesteryear, these days there’s plenty of gastronomic action for every kind of non-meat eater in Amsterdam.

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hether you’re a committed vegan or a casual flexitarian, it’s never been easier to eat plant-based in our city. Start the day with vegan pastries at SAINT-JEAN, have a wholesome plantbased lunch at The Meets or grab a guilt-free greasy snack at Vegan Junk Food Bar (freak fries!) or Mr Blou I Love You (falafel!), and cocktails and Asian finger food at Veganees. Mr. and Mrs. Watson remains a popular choice for dinner (don’t miss the award-winning vegan cheese plates), though according to Het Parool newspaper’s food critic, Bonboon has ‘the best vegan menu in the city’. Meanwhile, Yerba offers creative plant-based brunches, and Men Impossible does delicious vegan ramen. In mixed company and looking for something that will sate all apetities? There’s the Green Michelin-starred Bolenius and famous De Kas, as well as the brilliant BAK restaurant and Choux, Gault&Millau’s ‘Vegetable Restaurant of The Year 2022’. At the sustainabilityfocused Circl, beautiful things are made from surplus ingredients and at Michelin-starred Vermeer (pictured), the ‘nature focus’ extends to a rooftop kitchen garden. Noteworthy newcomers that offer plant-forward menus include Cornerstore, Café Beurre and Café de Parel.

We’re nuts about local vegan label Hands Off My Chocolate’s all-natural peanut bites made with fair vegan chocolate (€2.99 from most supermarkets).

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Mastino

Every pizza at this all-vegan pizza spot is lovingly topped with colourful veggies, plant-based ‘meats’ and convincing vegan ‘cheese’. The Alleria, with its smoked aubergine and spicy ‘mozzarella’ (€16) might be one of the best pizzas in town.

EERSTE VAN DER HELSTSTRAAT 78 MASTINOVEGANPIZZA.COM

H/eart.h

At this plant-based restaurant and audio bar, you’ll find well-executed dishes like ‘rawvioli’ of red beet with ‘cheese’ and caramelised onion (€11), broccoli gnocchi with a creamy sauce of sun-dried tomatoes, and healthy fusion sushi with spirulina rice and avocado.

CAMPERSTRAAT 24-26 HEARTHAMSTERDAM.NL

Flower Burger

Following Milan, London and Los Angeles, the ‘rainbow vegan burger’ has landed in Amsterdam.

With its 100% plant-based burgers and psychedelic layering, it’s a millennial dream. Try the ‘Spicy Chickpea’ veggie burger (€9.95): a chickpea patty, chillitomato sauce, Tropea onions, jalapeños, lettuce and tomato.

HARTENSTRAAT 29, FLOWERBURGER.NL

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28 | AMERICAN DELIGHTS

© ANNEBEL EPPING

Eat & Drink

Amsterdam's first tequila brand, LALA Tequila (€43.50 via lalatequila.com) is produced in small batches at an award-winning distillery in Jalisco, Mexico.

North American Nosh What’s not to love about bagels, burgers and barbecue?

We couldn’t agree more, so we’ve got all your North American cravings covered.

Celia

The Ugly Duck

You’ll find authentic deepdish pies at Amsterdam’s first Chicago-style pizza joint.

The meaty Sosa (€15) comes with sizzling sausage, crispy guanciale (cured Italian pork cheek) and mozzarella smothered in a broccoli sauce, while the Parmesan-crusted Parmigiana (€14) with deep-fried aubergine, basil and provolone is a nod to Windy City stalwart Pequod’s Pizza.

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© ASHKAN MORTEZAPOUR PHOTOGRAPHY

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Pendergast

For the best brisket and most rave-worthy ribs in town, wind your way to Pendergast smokehouse by Westerpark, where it's all lovingly slowsmoked over Dutch fruit wood

by Kansas-born cook Brandon Woodruff. The Spread, a trio of mains with three sides, cornbread and pickles, is excellent value at €76 (serves two to three).

GROEN VAN PRINSTERERSTRA AT 14 PENDERGAST.NL

Fiona

© MOKUMISTA

A boozy brunch at this modern American restaurant includes two dishes plus a carafe of Mimosa, Bellini or Bloody Mary to share (€35 per person, Sat-Sun 12:00-16:00).

There’s something for everyone, from lemon ricotta pancakes and housemade ‘everything bagels’ with fish to smoked mushroom tacos.

One of Amsterdam’s oldest streets is home to a Mexican eatery that combines a trendy Tulum-style décor with seasonal plates inspired by one of Mexico’s most famous chefs, Zahie Téllez. The six-dish chef’s selection includes guacamole with fresh totopos (tortilla chips), meltingly tender pork belly tacos and a smoked beef tostada, among other things (€35).

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Eat & Drink

The husband-and-wife team behind Obsidian

by Graphite, Peter Gast and Jacqueline van Liere.

FINE DINING

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Polished Plates, Easy Listening Obsidian by Graphite combines experimental cooking, wonderful wine, live music, an intimate atmosphere and warm service in a much-whispered-about underground venue below Peter Gast’s Michelin-starred speakeasy.

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s a professional, I’m intrigued by vegan cooking and I think it’s time for us to focus on this and experiment with plant-based dishes,’ says chef Peter Gast of his monthly Vegan Test Kitchen with live DJ beats (€75). During a recent 15-course meal at the cosy basement eatery off Rembrandtplein, delicate dahl, chilli pepper and fennel seed butterflies were a delight and the furikake-encrusted broccolini tempura with an orange-pump-

kin sauce an interesting take on tradition.

Meanwhile, the convincingly meaty texture of a cutting-edge 3D-printed ‘steak’ provided a surprising talking point and was food for thought about the future of meat replacements. There are also Food Notes Unplugged sessions (€125) that include a ten-course Graphite tasting menu and unplugged performances by local artists.

PAARDENSTRAAT 15III OBSIDIANBYGRAPHITE.AMSTERDAM

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SEE ART COME TO LIFE

GUSTAV KLIMT GOLD IN MOTION

22 APRIL - 31 DECEMBER 2022

IAL

T EN CE

SPE STU C D PR I

A CREATION BY GIANFRANCO IANNUZZI RENATO GATTO - MASSIMILIANO SICCARDI GRAPHIC & ANIMATION DESIGN CUTBACK ® PRODUCTION CULTURESPACES DIGITAL

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What’s on Where to go and what to see TEXT: VERITY SEWARD

32 Museums 37 Attractions 38 Festivals & Events 41 Family 42 On Screen 43 Classical & Jazz 44 On Stage 46 Pop & Rock 47 Clubbing

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Rijksmuseum

© MICHIEL TON

A must-visit for all art lovers, the Rijksmuseum spans 800 years of art history. Masterpieces

by Rembrandt van Rijn, Jan Steen, Frans Hals and Johannes Vermeer are just the tip of the iceberg in the extensive collection. Highlights include Rembrandt’s The Nightwatch and Cuypers Library, the most extensive and oldest art history library in the Netherlands, with a beautiful spiral staircase that begs to be photographed.

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Museums © GUSTAV KLIMT, JUDITH, 1901, BELVEDERE, VIENNA. PHOTO: BELVEDERE, VIENNA, JOHANNES STOLL

32 | ON VIEW

Van Gogh Museum E

ndlessly reproduced on fridge magnets and tea towels, the world continues to be enchanted by the colourful brushstrokes of Vincent van Gogh. This sleek museum offers a refreshing take on the revolutionary Dutch painter’s life and work, displaying the world’s largest collection of original paintings, illustrations and personal letters for a unique glimpse into his world. From 7 October, the Van Gogh Museum will present a large-scale exhibition on the work of Gustav Klimt. The Austrian artist has become famous around the world for his decorative gold pieces, powerful figurative draw-

ings and landscapes in which colours flow into one another as if on a richly-adorned carpet. But who inspired this versatile artist? Golden Boy Gustav Klimt. Inspired by Van Gogh, Rodin and Matisse... explores the influence of international modern art on Klimt’s work. In addition to paintings by his favourite contemporaries, the exhibition is the fi rst in the Netherlands to show dozens of Klimt’s works on such a large scale: from atmospheric paintings to his colourful, monumental portraits of female subjects.

MUSEUMPLEIN 6, VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER

© ARJAN BRONKHORST

L SMAL but IAL SPEC

Built during the 1660s, the hidden church in the attic of this remarkably well-preserved canal house reveals an inspiring story of Dutch religious tolerance.

OUDEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL 38, OPSOLDER.NL

HUIS MARSEILLE Stunning photography laid out across opulent period rooms and a specialist bookshop where you’ll be tempted to spend way more than you budgeted for.

KEIZERSGR ACHT 401, HUISMARSEILLE.NL

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Learn all about the social, political and artistic context of the Amsterdam School architecture movement at this whacky redbrick building, Museum Het Schip, located in a former socialist housing block.

Amsterdam houses many more museums than can fit on these pages. Head to iamsterdam.com to see them all.

OOSTZAANSTRAAT 45, HETSCHIP.NL

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National Maritime Museum

The National Maritime Museum brings together a mammoth collection of maritime objects, not to mention a life-size replica of VOC ship Amsterdam moored on the jetty outside – you can’t miss it. Start your swashbuckling tour with hands-on activities that illustrate life aboard a real 18th-century ship, then marvel at paintings, models of ships, navigational instruments and maps which explain how Dutch sailors navigated the seas and how their travels impacted the world at large.

K AT TENBURGERPLEIN 1, HETSCHEEPVA ARTMUSEUM.COM

Stedelijk Museum

The collection of this spectacular modern art museum, housed in a building that resembles an enormous shiny bathtub, encompasses over 90,000 works. The Stedelijk BASE permanent exhibition shows pieces by Van Gogh, Picasso, Warhol, Mondrian and Rothko.

The temporary exhibitions are dedicated to experimental curation. Sedje Hémon. Imran Mir. Abdias Nascimento: Abstracting Parables (1 July-16 October) will highlight the three artists’ multifaceted oeuvres, followed by major exhibitions dedicated to ground-breaking German artist Anne Imhof (autumn), and Yto Barrada (22 October-5 March 2023).

Amsterdam Museum Amsterdam Museum, now temporarily located at Amstel 51 while its original building is being renovated, tells the story of Amsterdam, presenting exhibitions on a wide range of urban issues. Its current exhibition Panorama Amsterdam reveals the many facets of the city. What are the foremost characteristics that define Amsterdam? And has it always been that way? How will the city continue to develop? By connecting stories from the past, present, and future, a broader perspective of the city emerges: Amsterdam, in all its dimensions.

MUSEUMPLEIN 10, STEDELIJK.NL

Many museums and attractions are free with the I amsterdam City Card Card. Get yours at iamsterdam.com/city-card.

MUSEUMSTR A AT 1, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

MUSEUM HET REMBRANDTHUIS This restored townhouse provides a multifaceted insight into the life and work of the legendary painter.

© KEES HAGEMAN

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FOAM All camera enthusiasts should shuffle over to this renowned photography museum showcasing the most exciting contemporary talents.

NXT MUSEUM Lose your senses and hopefully not your friends in this colossal industrial space filled with immersive audio-visual projections and digital artworks.

There’s an expo on identity coming up this summer.

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Museums 34 | ON VIEW

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Eye

Cobra Museum of

Filmmuseum

Situated on the northern bank of the River IJ, just opposite Central station, this striking cinema and film museum is a must-see. The permanent Eye presentation shows film devices that mark impor-

Modern Art

© MOUS L AMRABAT, MOMS SEE EVERY THING, 2019

Home to key works by the avant-garde cohort of the CoBrA art movement, this light-flooded museum is well worth the trip (Cobra Museum is a short tram or bus ride from central Amsterdam). The unique collection features an impressive collection of works by the great names of the mid-20th-century, such as Karel Appel, Constant Nieuwenhuys and Jan Sierhuis. You’ll find major retrospectives about individual contributors to the movement and a changing schedule of temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary art. This summer, The Other Story: Moroccan Modernism from 1956 to the present (until 18 September) brings together 40 artists – including Nour-Eddine Jarram, Khalil Nemmaoui and Wafae Ahalouch el Keriasti – to provide an overview of the development of modern Moroccan art from the country’s independence in 1956 to today.

SANDBERGPLEIN 1, AMSTELVEEN COBR A-MUSEUM.NL

MUSEUM VAN LOON Have a nose around the former home of a wealthy cofounder of the Dutch East India Company for some lavish interior design inspo.

KEIZERSGR ACHT 672 MUSEUMVANLOON.NL

STRAAT MUSEUM You won’t be saying ‘I could have painted that’ standing in front of a giant mural that stretches to the rafters of this massive industrial complex devoted to street art.

NDSM-PLEIN 1 STRAATMUSEUM.COM

tant moments in the history of cinema.

Some of the highlights are the Mitchell – a 35mm camera with which many major Hollywood films have been recorded – and a mutoscope showing Chaplin's The Waiter. The rotating exhibition programme showcases the world’s most pioneering filmmakers. This summer, Eye Art & Film Prize - Meriem Bennani, Kahlil Joseph, Karrabing Film Collective will feature work by the artists, who effortlessly cross the boundary between film and visual art.

IJPROMENADE 1, EYEFILM.NL

ONCE UPON A TIME This pop-up exhibit (until 31 October) of rare bronze mantel clocks explores themes of love, desire, jealousy, temptation and deceit.

MUSEUMPLEIN 4, ONCE-UPON-A-TIME.AMSTERDAM

GROOTE MUSEUM Delve into the connection between all living things at this newly-renovated museum on Artisplein, next to the zoo.

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All stored within a monumental Art Deco building, the Amsterdam City Archives are the largest treasure trove of municipal history in the world.

The exhibitions are free to visit.

VIJZELSTRAAT 32, AMSTERDAM.NL/STADSARCHIEF

Allard Pierson Run by the University of Amsterdam and named after its first professor of archaeology, Allard Pierson, this museum contains a rich archaeological collection.

You’ll find an actual mummy, Greek pottery and Roman glass, medieval bibles, cookbooks, Multatuli’s manuscripts and plaster casts of famous classical statues, as well as galleries full of other items providing insight into daily life in ancient times.

OUDE TURFMARKT 127, ALLARDPIERSON.NL

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Jewish Cultural Quarter Nestled between Waterlooplein and De Plantage, The Jewish Cultural Quarter was a neighbourhood where many Jewish Amsterdammers once lived. Today a rich cultural history is still visible, and you’ll find monuments, memorials and museums within a few steps from each other. Located in four monumental synagogues, the Jewish Museum is a prominent museum that gives a multifaceted picture of Dutch Jewish life – including at the interactive Children’s Museum.

This year’s major exhibition is Highlights from the Photography Collection: Every

Picture Tells a Story (until 4 September).

Dating back to 1675, the Portuguese Synagogue is one of the world’s largest synagogues and houses Ets Haim, the oldest active Jewish library in the world. Nearby, you’ll find the grand Hollandsche Schouwburg and the Dutch Holocaust Memorial of Names, which consists of more than 102,000 bricks bearing the names and dates of birth and death of those deported from the Netherlands and murdered during World War II. JEWISH MUSEUM, NIEUWE AMSTELSTRAAT 1 JCK.NL

Tropenmuseum © ROB VAN ESCH

This expansive, light-drenched museum houses a collection of intriguing artefacts from around the globe, each with its own story to tell about world cultures, past and present. The major exhibition Our Colonial Heritage (from 23 June) challenges viewers to think about the ongoing legacies of colonisation – with a particular look at Dutch colonial history in Indonesia, Suriname, Curaçao, Sint Maarten and many other countries. Kids can get stuck into Tropenmuseum Junior (in Dutch), which uses hands-on exhibits to promote an open view of the world.

OUR HOUSE The world’s first museum dedicated to electronic music, with contributions from a host of DJ legends: Armin van Buuren, Carl Cox, Charlotte de Witte, and Kevin Saunderson, to name a few.

FABRIQUE DES LUMIÈRES Experience immersive digital artworks dedicated to the most celebrated artists – starting with Gustav Klimt, Gold in Motion (until 31 December) – designed to match Westergasfabriek’s unique architecture.

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Colour & curiousity 36 | ADVERTORIAL

Wonderful World

Roller Dreams

Situated beside WONDR, you’ll find Amsterdam’s newest pop-up experience where music, dance and rollerskating come together in a fantasy-filled disco paradise. Expect an electrifying eighties experience with an abundance of mirrors, neon lights and holographic palm trees. Put your best glittery outfit on, grab a drink at the bar and enjoy the retro beats played by the resident DJ. No roller skates? No problem! Tickets include the rent of a pair of wheels.

Designed in collaboration with Amsterdam’s most creative minds, WONDR is an immersive experience unlike anything you’ve seen before.

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tep into Amsterdam’s first experience playground: a world of colour and curiosity that invites you to play and explore. Jump into the largest ball pit in the Netherlands, get lost in an otherworldly jungle, dive into a pool of pink marshmallows, and dance under a glittering sky with hundreds of disco balls. Within WONDR, you will find a maze comprising 15 interactive installations. WONDR’s bright pink building is located in Amsterdam Noord, less

than 10 minutes away from Central station.

WONDR is an immersive art experience shaped as a creative playground for adults, but young art lovers are welcome too!

Regardless of your age, this confettisprinkled world of colour and sensation invites you to play and explore. Kids younger than 11 years old can join at designated hours during KIDS TIME sessions.

MEEUWENLAAN 88 WONDREXPERIENCE.COM

Pink Beach

Imagine a pink tropical island, right in the middle of Amsterdam. Unwind in one of the comfortable beach chairs and enjoy a delicious cocktail with your feet dipped in pink sand.

Looking for some pool-side fun? Dive into in the azure-blue ball-pit pool while you wait for your Palm Springs Veggie Burger. Reason enough to cancel your vacation plans!

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Diehard sports buffs can book a behindthe-scenes tour at the Johan Cruijff ArenA – the home turf of Amsterdam’s beloved football team, Ajax.

JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 1 JOHANCRUIJFFARENA.NL

Attractions EXPERIENCE AND EXPLORE

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1, ADAMTOREN.NL

Amsterdam has a long heritage within the diamond trade and there are several locations where you can dive into this sparkling industry. Learn all about carats, clarity, cuts and diamond craftsmanship on a free tour of the GASSAN Diamond Factory. You can even take a seat behind the grinder. Alternatively see the craftsmen at work on a free tour of Royal Coster Diamonds. Get a behind-the-scenes glimpse before browsing through the spacious showrooms.

© DENNIS BOUMAN

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ower of many talents, A’DAM is one of Amsterdam’s most exciting nightlife hubs. The building is home to a rooftop observation deck (with a swing!), a hotel, a nightclub and some topnotch bars and eateries – including a revolving restaurant on the 19th floor.

Don’t miss the This is Holland flight experience next door where special effects will give you the sensation of flying over the Dutch landscape.

Diamonds

NIEUWE UILENBURGERSTRAAT 173-175, GASSAN.COM PAULUS POTTERSTRAAT 2-8, ROYALCOSTER.COM

© KOEN SMILDE

A’DAM Tower & This is Holland

Hortus Botanicus

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 51, THISISHOLLAND.COM

Canal cruise

© MERIJN ROUBROEKS

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Amsterdam’s interwoven network of 165 canals is all the more magical when viewed from the water. Glide past the city’s historic offerings on one of the famous canal cruises, witnessing 16th-century churches, elegant canal house façades and iconic drawbridges. With so much to see, the UNESCO-listed canal belt can get busy in summer, so why not head further out to explore the waters of the Amsterdam area? Surrounding the city, you’ll find numerous leisure lakes, including the Loosdrechtse and Vinkeveense Plassen, where you can rent a sailboat, motorboat or even a canoe.

From delicate little cacti to towering palms, those with even a mild interest in botany will be truly taken by one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. Originally founded in 1638 to serve as a herb garden for the city’s doctors and pharmacists, the Hortus Botanicus contains more than 6,000 indigenous and non-native tree and plant species. In addition to a gorgeous café, outdoor gardens and a ‘hothouse’ that emulates three different tropical environments, hundreds of majestic butterflies can be found frolicking inside the Butterfly House.

PLANTAGE MIDDENLAAN 2A, DEHORTUS.NL

Rembrandts Amsterdam Experience Step back 350 years in time at this spectacular 5D experience. Enter Rembrandt’s last studio where you will be taken on a journey through the life of Amsterdam’s most famous painter.

Here you’ll meet Rembrandt, his mistress Hendrickje, son Titus and daughter Cornelia.

Eager to discover more? There’s also a walking tour that guides you through Rembrandt’s Amsterdam.

WETERINGSCHANS 2, REMBRANDTSAMSTERDAM.COM

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Festivals & Events 38 | DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Holland Festival

Pride

3-26 JUNE, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL

30 JULY-7 AUGUST, PRIDE.AMSTERDAM

© DOUGH MASON

programming that consistently emphasises disciplinary crossovers, the festival has been a frontrunner in supporting modern and non-classical contemporary music and new forms of musical theatre.

One of the biggest and best celebrations of gay pride around the globe, Pride Amsterdam attracts more than 350,000 participants and visitors who stay and play in Amsterdam. The city is a vibrant rainbow of events in gay and straight venues alike, with dance parties, film screenings, sporting events, debates, exhibitions and much more. All are welcome and there’s something for everyone.

From fabulous frocks and glittery glam to cultural celebrations and artistic performances, there’s lots on the programme. Don’t miss one of its most famous highlights, the spectacular Canal Parade (6 August), where the floats actually float and the public line the lengths of the city’s canals to take in the colourful spectacle. To coincide with this, Milkshake Festival in Westerpark – a collaboration between Air and Paradiso, two of the largest clubs in Amsterdam – is a multi-genre music event with a clear message where respect, freedom, love, tolerance and fun are of paramount importance.

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ne of the highlights of Amsterdam’s theatre and dance agenda, Holland Festival is held at various locations across the city and offers a heady mix of theatre, music, opera, film and visual arts in a variety of languages. With

30-31 JULY, MILKSHAKEFESTIVAL.COM

3-5 JUNE REDLIGHTJAZZ.COM

15-18 SEPTEMBER UNSEENAMSTERDAM. COM

JULIDANS This renowned international modern dance festival traditionally showcases the grandmasters of the dance scene, as well as breathtaking new talents.

2-16 JULY, JULIDANS.NL © PINELOPI GERASIMOU

RED LIGHT JAZZ FESTIVAL Celebrating Amsterdam’s position as a true jazz city, this festival aims to flaunt a more cultured side of the infamous Red Light District.

UNSEEN AMSTERDAM Crowds flock to Westergas for Unseen Photo Fair.

The world’s most exciting photography galleries and artists are brought together for a weekendlong event.

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Follow the GLUE Design Route that covers designers’ and interior architects’ studios, showrooms, galleries and brand stores throughout the city and includes a four day programme for professionals and enthusiasts.

15-17 SEPTEMBER, GLUE.AMSTERDAM

Sport city

The Dutch capital has long-secured its reputation as one of the sportiest European cities. In October, the city will burst into orange as bars fill up with supporters for the FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022. And when it comes to running events, you could say Amsterdam has a personal best: the Amsterdam marathon (16 October, tcsamsterdammarathon.eu) draws in elite runners from around the world as well as thousands of amateurs.

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Grachtenfestival Amsterdam Dance Event never fails to bring in the crowds with world-famous established names on the line-up alongside an enormous list of rising stars.

The playlist is always suitably diverse, catering to all electronic music genres.

With a colossal array of parties taking place, including one of the largest techno events, Awakenings at the Gashouder in Westergas, this annual festival sees more than 2,500 artists descend on 200 locations across the city.

To coincide with five days of guaranteed partying, the ADE Green conference engages with sustainability, innovation, and social change in the music industry through keynote speakers, panel discussions and hands-on workshops.

12-21 AUGUST, GRACHTENFESTIVAL.NL

19-23 OCTOBER, AMSTERDAM-DANCE-EVENT.NL, AWAKENINGS.COM

DE PARADE Whether you’re a diehard theatre devotee or just along for the ride, there’s always something surprising to look out for at the De Parade performing arts festival: a variety of short and full-length performances, open-air shows and events at secret locations.

12-28 AUGUST, DEPARADE.NL

WORLD PRESS PHOTO EXHIBITION Witness the most powerful, moving and influential images taken by the most talented press photographers working around the world today at World Press Photo Exhibition in De Nieuwe Kerk.

UNTIL 14 AUGUST WORLDPRESSPHOTO.ORG

© AMBER BRACKEN

© ERIK VAN T HOF

One of the cultural highlights of the summer is the Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival), held annually in August on and around Amsterdam’s historic waterways. This UNESCO World Heritage site hosts a ten-day festival of classical music at some marvellous locations which form the perfect backdrop for classical music. Concerts are performed on stages by or even on the water, as the musicians play on pontoons and the audience listens from the canal-side or their own boats.

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muiderslot.com | Herengracht 1, Muiden | open daily 10:00 - 17:00

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For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Family FOR KIDS AND GROWN-UPS

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Fun Forest

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hen you’ve had enough of monkeying around in the city centre, engage in some further ape-like behaviour at Fun Forest, an adventure course high up in the trees built for grown-ups and kids alike. Decked out with ziplines, ropes and wobbly bridges, there are challenging and exciting options for all ages. Located just south of Amsterdam, the climbing park is next door to the Amsterdamse Bos, the city’s largest park and recreational area which is crossed with many well-marked walking and cycling paths. What’s more, between the lush forests and grassy meadows, you’re sure to find the perfect spot to set up a picnic blanket.

BOSBAANWEG 3, AMSTELVEEN, FUNFOREST.NL

Home to over 750 animal species, an Aquarium and Planetarium, Artis Zoo is one of Amsterdam’s biggest family attractions. Little ones can burn off steam in the fantastic play area and parents can call time out at the café terrace. Next door, Micropia is dedicated to the smallest but most powerful things on our planet: microbes. The dark exhibition space is packed with interactive exhibits and microscopes you can peer into to see how living organisms move, eat and reproduce. And then there’s the brand new Groote Museum, which delves into the connection between all living things.

PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40, ARTIS.NL, MICROPIA.NL

© DIGIDAAN

NEMO Science Museum

It’s all about discovery and interactivity at NEMO Science Museum. Kids will love the playful exhibitions where they can experience the wonders of science and technology to their heart’s content, such as blowing giant bubbles and making rainbows. What’s more, the museum’s iconic building in the city’s Eastern Docklands is a must-see for architecture aficionados, while the rooftop gives an amazing view of Amsterdam’s city centre.

OOSTERDOK 2, NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL

© RONALD VAN WEEREN

Artis Zoo & Micropia

Interactive museums

Now something for those social media savvy types: a new phenomenon in Amsterdam is the array of interactive museums that have popped up recently, transforming the city into an artistic playground.

At WONDR (Meeuwenlaan 88, wondrexperience.com) you can dive into a pool of pink marshmallows, get lost in an extra-terrestrial jungle or dance under a glittering sky (see page 36). Youseum (Weesperzijde 150, youseum.nl) is a world of vibrant installations geared towards experimentation and interaction with art: basically, a selfieheaven. Step into the green tub and sink into a sea of likes as you put your stamp on your surroundings. Meanwhile, The Upside Down Amsterdam (Europaboulevard 5, the-upsidedown.com) introduces what’s typical about contemporary Dutch culture with a fun twist.

Learn about the amazing dance music scene coming from Amsterdam or the country’s abnormal preference for chocolate and sweets.

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The oldest cinema in Amsterdam, The Movies focuses on alternative film and art-house fare.

On screen

HAARLEMMERDIJK 161 THEMOVIES.NL

42 | AT THE PICTURES

LAB111 Housed in one of the city’s most unusual converted spaces – a former pathological anatomy lab – LAB111 is a cinema and cultural space that is about as quirky as it gets. On the agenda, you’ll see a range of special screenings, animated features, modern classics and in-depth documentaries alongside regular showings with English subtitles. The space also hosts contemporary art exhibitions, lectures and concerts, plus there’s a good café and restaurant.

ARIE BIEMONDSTRAAT 111, LAB111.NL

Film festivals

Amsterdam has a range of globally acclaimed festivals dedicated to everything from documentaries to the latest art-house flicks.

with genres ranging from absurd romcoms, indie and art-house cinema to haunting horror flicks, documentary or animation. And don’t miss the weirdly wonderful Imagine film festival (26 October-4 November, imaginefilmfestival.nl), for the best in fantasy, horror and science fiction.

Each November, International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam (IDFA, 9-20 November, idfa.nl) treats cinema lovers to the best domestic and international arrivals from the documentary film world. Pluk de Nacht (24 August-3 September, plukdenacht.nl) brings not-yet-released films to Amsterdam’s summer nights at an idyllic waterside location

FC Hyena

AAMBEELDSTRAAT 24, FCHYENA.NL

Pathé Tuschinski A stone’s throw from Rembrandtplein, the Pathé Tuschinski cinema was voted most stunning movie theatre in the world in 2021. Commissioned by Abraham Tuschinski and opened in 1921, the interior and exterior blend several designs, with an emphasis on Art Deco. Like the décor, the movies are also a mix of styles; Hollywood blockbusters play next to art-house darlings. Be sure to arrive early enough to gaze admiringly at the ornate ceiling.

Tip: to up the date-night ante, book a private old-school love seat. © MARTIN KUIJPER

This boutique cinema and eatery has transformed Amsterdam Noord into the perfect hip hangout for film lovers. A great mix of art-house and popular films are programmed across two screens, each with its homemade comfy seating. At the restaurant, you can enjoy light bites such as tacos, oysters, and pastries from the wood oven, along with natural wines from the bar.

REGULIERSBREESTRAAT 26-34, PATHE.NL/TUSCHINSKITHEATER

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GERARD BRANDTSTRAAT 28 ORGELPARK.NL

Classical & Jazz MUSIC TO YOUR EARS

© KOEN SMILDE

Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

res of classical, jazz, electronic pop and world music. The spectacular building justifiably calls itself ‘Amsterdam’s Concert Hall of the 21st Century’. Throughout the year, the venue also hosts exhibitions showcasing work by internationally acclaimed visual artists. While uziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ is an internation- you’re there, don’t forget to take in ally leading stage that the fabulous view of the River IJ from the Muziekgebouw Café. excels in its inspirational and innovative programme of contem- PIET HEINKADE 1, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL porary music and the related gen-

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Church concerts

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Royal Concertgebouw This renowned concert venue, acclaimed for its exquisite acoustics and top-quality programming, is the stomping ground for the Concertgebouw Orchestra. Completed in 1888, the impressive building overlooking Museumplein has been the centre for classical music in the Netherlands for well over a century. It houses three beautiful performance spaces: the grand Main Hall for orchestral blockbusters, the Recital Hall for quartets and chamber music, and the Choir Hall for more intimate recitals.

CONCERTGEBOUWPLEIN 10, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

Situated in one of the oldest and most charming parts of Amsterdam, Noorderkerk (Noordermarkt 44, noorderkerkconcerten.nl) is an idyllic setting for a matinee classical concert, regularly attracting an audience of classical experts and curious newcomers. Concerts typically run from September to May on Saturday afternoons. Alternatively in the Indische Buurt you’ll find NedPhO Koepel (Batjanstraat 3, orkest.nl), a former church where visitors are welcome to attend free open rehearsals and children’s concerts by the Netherlands Philharmonic and Chamber Orchestras. If you’d like to stay in the know, keep an eye out for concerts held in churches such as De Waalse Kerk, De Duif, Vondelkerk and more (stadsherstel.nl).

Bimhuis was one of the first venues to put Amsterdam jazz firmly on the map as a leader in Europe.

The venue shares a bespoke performance space with the Muziekgebouw aan ´t IJ, with a

Bimhuis

wood-panelled room that caters to the best Dutch players and a revolving array of international jazz talents – always with outstanding acoustics and atmosphere.

PIET HEINKADE 3, BIMHUIS.NL

© PAUL VAN RIEL

Housed in the Parkkerk, Orgelpark is an international concert hall that gives the church organ a new face in contemporary music culture.

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On stage

44 | DO BE SEATED

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Dutch National Opera & Ballet

AMSTEL 3, OPERABALLET.NL

© MARC HAEGEMAN

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etween the exquisite artistry, innovative productions, dazzling sets and costumes, it’s a treat to catch a performance at the Dutch National Opera & Ballet. The institution collaborates with leading national and international companies and regularly presents guest performances including dance and musical theatre productions on its extensive schedule. Catch enchanting ballet fairy tales such as Swan Lake or Sleeping Beauty for the whole family, or famous opera Carmen.

Internationaal Theater Amsterdam The highly-regarded Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam and Toneelgroep Amsterdam joined forces in 2018 to create Internationaal Theater Amsterdam (ITA), a leading light for the future of performing arts in the Netherlands.

Known for its ensemble of world-famous actors and pioneering directors, catching a performance in ITA’s monumental theatre space on Leidseplein will undoubtedly keep you on the edge of your seat. Check their website for English-language shows and selected performances with subtitles.

LEIDSEPLEIN 26, ITA.NL

Royal Theatre Carré Whether you want low-brow chuckles or to be wowed by theatre, opera and dance, you’ll always find something to raise a smile in the variety programming of Royal Theatre Carré. For over a century, this historic venue has attracted massive stars from internationally acclaimed comedians (catch John Cleese in July!) and musicians to some of the country’s most noteworthy cabaret acts, musicals and world famous ballets. Complete your evening with a drink in the lavish foyers or a meal on the newly-renovated riverside terrace.

AMSTEL 115-125, CARRE.NL

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Off-shoot performing arts festival Fringe Festival is all about bringing avant-garde theatre to light, with some 70 productions set in the most unexpected of venues.

1-11 SEPTEMBER, AMSTERDAMFRINGEFESTIVAL.NL

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Vondelpark Openluchttheater

Podium Mozaïek

Every summer the open-air theatre in Vondelpark loads up its programme with a range of children’s performances, theatre workshops, comedy, dance, opera, classical and pop concerts.

© TIM HILLEGE

VONDELPARK 5A, OPENLUCHTTHEATER.NL

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ocated in a former church in Bos en Lommer, Podium Mozaïek embraces the cultural diversity of Amsterdam and provides a stage and meeting place for a range of cultural and artistic initiatives in the city. Their programme offers music, theatre, dance, exhibitions and spoken word, with a focus on language-no-problem performances. The spectacular sun-soaked terrace of the café-restaurant is open seven days a week and is the perfect spot to indulge in the Mediterranean-inspired seasonal menu, craft beers or a glass of wine.

BOS EN LOMMERWEG 191, PODIUMMOZAIEK.NL

Hotel Wonderland

This immersive theatre production takes its audiences into new territories with compound experiences of food, music, installations and a truly incredible show. Wander through 4,000m2 of converted factory space at the Hembrugterrein in Zaandam, just across the water from Amsterdam Westpoort. The space is dotted with interactive artworks and residents who you can converse with as you attempt to piece together their tales. Guests can also enjoy a delicious menu courtesy of the Piano Bar. SLAGHOEDJE 54, ZAANDAM, HOTELWONDERLAND.NL

Comedy

Toomler Comedy Club (Breitnerstraat 2, comedytrain.nl) has been the home base and springboard for many Dutch comedians.

Names such as Hans Teeuwen, Theo Maassen, Patrick Laureij and Soundos El Ahmadi all found their way to a solo career at this intimate stand-up breeding ground. Toomler is also known for a dazzling line-up of international acts (Trevor Noah, Jamali Maddix, Ali Wong, Jim Jefferies, Michelle Buteau) during their International Summer Festival and throughout the year. Boom Chicago (Rozengracht 117, boomchicago.nl) has been tickling the ribs of audiences for over 25 years with its combination of comedy, sketch and improv all performed in English. Shows touch on everything from Dutch culture to American politics, and many big names got their start here. Don’t miss the Boom Chicago Comedy Festival (7-17 July) for improv, workshops and a downright good laugh.

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Pop & Rock

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

46 | THE BEST GIGS

Pop arenas

© BIBIAN BINGEN

Paradiso P

robably Amsterdam’s most famous music venue, Paradiso is a former church that was squatted in the 1960s and grew into a renowned performance space where all the greats have played.

While evolving and embracing modern sound and light technology, Paradiso holds onto its religious history by way of the large stained-glass panels that loom behind the performers, as well as two levels of balconies that transform any concert into a reverential affair. Upstairs are smaller rooms where newer or lesser-known bands typically play. In the basement, there’s an additional café and a smaller stage. Paradiso irrevocably remains the pop temple of Amsterdam.

WETERINGSCHANS 6-8, PARADISO.NL

When the biggest pop, rock and dance names stop in Amsterdam they require the biggest arenas. Fortunately, the city is home to three major locations – all situated in Amsterdam Zuidoost. Formerly known as the Heineken Music Hall, AFAS Live (Johan Cruijff Boulevard 590, afaslive.nl) opened in 2001 with a capacity of 5,500. Whether you’re standing at the very front or seated in the sloped, open seating at the back, it’s easy to maintain focus on the artists on stage. Ziggo Dome (De Passage 100, ziggodome.nl) is the city’s largest multipurpose entertainment location. Two balconies swoop around the boxy arena, with the stalls either all-standing or all-seated, depending on the event. And then there’s the Ajax stadium, the Johan Cruijff Arena (Johan Cruijff Boulevard 1, johancruijffarena.nl), where the football field is transformed into a stage to host the biggest artists.

© DIGIDAAN

Melkweg

Melkweg takes its name from the Milky Way galaxy – but the name also reflects the building’s history as a former dairy factory. The venue is split into various spaces including two darker, boxy spaces designed to showcase live music: The Max main concert hall and the more intimate OZ. You’ll also find a cinema, theatre, multimedia room, tea room, restaurant and gallery space, Melkweg EXPO. Melkweg also shares an ultra-modern performance space known as the Rabozaal with the neighbouring ITA. LIJNBAANSGRACHT 234A, MELKWEG.NL

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Tolhuistuin is Noord’s dynamic cultural hotspot, gig venue (including nightclub Parallel) and a sanctuary for all art forms, mainstream or avant-garde.

Clubbing

TOLHUISWEG 3, TOLHUISTUIN.NL

DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY

Escape

Escape is a veritable evergreen of Amsterdam’s nightlife, situated on Rembrandtplein – one of the city’s most popular destinations for going out.

Always teeming with energetic young things, the club offers a musical menu covering all popular styles of dance

Lofi Lofi was founded in a former warehouse space as a multidisciplinary venue with the aim of letting Amsterdammers enjoy culture, music, food and art all in one spot. The programme changes weekly, with events ranging from weekend-long parties hosted by some of the biggest events programmers in the city to more intimate club nights from up-and-coming DJs or chill Sunday sessions that spill over into the venue’s courtyard.

BASISWEG 63, LOFI.AMSTERDAM

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music: house, electro, techno and pop.

Amsterdam’s finest hit the decks alongside world-famous DJs such as Tiësto, David Guetta, Paul van Dyk, Kevin Saunderson and Todd Terry.

REMBRANDTPLEIN 11, ESCAPE.NL

Shelter Shelter is the name of the subterranean nightclub and exhibition space located in the basement of the landmark A’DAM Tower on Amsterdam’s northern waterfront.

Shelter’s programming is founded greatly on quality house and techno. There is plenty of room, though, for disco and more progressive kinds of unconventional electronica.

On regular club nights Shelter is usually open until early morning, but there’s also the occasional weekender. Underground clubbing at its finest.

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 3, SHELTERAMSTERDAM.NL

Radion

© TOM TEN SELDAM

This multidisciplinary creative haven, located in a former medical office building, hosts everything from sword-fighting workshops to booming techno nights – in 2015 Radion was granted a 24-hours permit, so stay hydrated. You’ll find a steady flow of art, music, dance and other cultural events on the agenda as well as cinema screenings and a café-bar serving (vegan) lunch, dinner and drinks.

LOUWESWEG 1, RADION.AMSTERDAM

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®

T H E U LT I M AT E B O D Y S PA

T H E WO R L D ’ S F I R S T M I N D S PA

R E S TAU R A N T RO U H I

PREMIUM COLLECTIONS

TO P 10 GLOBAL S TO R E S

Brown Matthew 2021

A UNIQUE SHOPPING & WELLBEING EXPERIENCE discover this award-winning store at Spui 10 in Amsterdam

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City Guide

Explore Amsterdam Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

50 54 60 66 72 74 80

Noord Oost Zuid West Nieuw-West Centrum Zuidoost

ILLUSTRATIONS: © BARBARA VAN DEN BERG, SALT Y STOCK

TEXT: VERITY SEWARD, STEVEN STRIJBOSCH, TEXT SHOPPING: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

08:57

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SEE PAGE 85 FOR TIPS ON WHAT TO DO IN WEESP

Beyond the canals

The waterways, bridges and highlights of Amsterdam’s historic centre are iconic, but venture further in any direction outside of the canal ring and you’ll find a whole world more to explore. Each corner of Amsterdam boasts its distinct character and charm with a unique variety of museums, restaurants, cafés and attractions. Take the time to discover the hidden treasures of Amsterdam’s different districts.

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Noord 50 | text: REBEL KarinWITH Engelbrecht A CAUSE

NDSM Wharf

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For more information on Amsterdam Noord check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Noorderlicht café’s bohemian greenhouse is surrounded by a blissful waterfront beer garden ambling down to the shore of the River IJ. NDSM-PLEIN 102, NOORDERLICHTCAFE.NL q

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Across the River Quirky Amsterdam Noord boasts the best of contrasting worlds with historic villages and hip waterside hangouts.

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ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord’s (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as the many new developments popping up across the River IJ. In recent decades, Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to cutting-edge architecture, exciting festivals, museums, gig venues, fantastic dining options and bars along the waterfront.

A free ferry from behind Central station will take you there in minutes; so don’t miss the chance to explore this unique area of Amsterdam.

Alternative culture

© KOEN SMILDE

When you step off the ferry, the wide IJplein promenade leads visitors to a variety of attractions with eye-catching architecture such as the Eye Filmmuseum and A’DAM Tower. Trendy food hotspots such as Coba, Bacalar and Hotel de Goudfazant redefine industrial-chic, while venues such as Tolhuistuin, Garage Noord and FC Hyena have grown the area into a much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture. Make your way

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through the urban jungle and the lush green Noorderpark and you'll find the gateway to spectacular countryside dotted with historic villages such as Uitdam or Broek in Waterland.

Shipyard turned creative paradise

Alternatively, take the ferry slightly west towards NDSM Wharf.

Repurposed into a cultural haven with a reputation for rebellious creativity and street art, the former shipyard was once the largest in the Netherlands.

This urban plaza is now packed with art spaces, magnificent new restaurants, terraces overlooking the water and buzzing nightlife options. Pllek and Noorderlicht are perfectly laid-back spots to have lunch and cocktails with magnificent river views.

Nearby, the eco-project and restaurant, De Ceuvel, exudes innovation and sustainability. Once a month, treasure hunters can rummage through stalls packed with vintage threads and knick-knacks, when Europe’s largest flea market IJ-Hallen takes over.

INSIDER TIP

‘De Ceuvel is my hot tip to visit in Noord. The café is entirely constructed out of pre-used materials, so it’s aesthetically pleasing to look at. The vegan food is great and the staff really love working there which really contributes to a friendly atmosphere.’

Merel de Haan (38), energetic body worker

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Neef Louis At this 2,000m2 design and vintage store, your ‘Cousin Louis’ will hook you up with retro treasures and the odd eccentric choice (we’ve seen tractor seats and even a pommel horse here).

But if you don’t fancy blowing your salary on that mid-century desk, stop by neighbour Van Dijk & Ko for vintage furniture and flea market finds.

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Pompet

In the middle of Noorderpark, café-restaurant Pompet adds a touch of French finesse to the neighbourhood. The menu is filled with Francoinspired dishes, they serve a multitude of French natural wines and they have a real boules alley.

The large playground opposite makes this a great spot for fatigued parents to wind down.

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Find dolls in every skin tone and condition, including naevus, vitiligo or Down’s Syndrome, at Europe’s ‘first black doll gift shop’, Coloured Goodies.s.

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SEXYLAND World

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Utterly unique and always unexpected, cultural clubhouse and experimental project space SEXYLAND World works under a not-for-profit model, operating with a different owner every day. That means you could find anything on the agenda, from drag performances and fetish parties to knitting groups, talks and a kaleidoscopic array of club nights. Upstairs, Order Sichuan is a vibey spot for tongue-numbing dishes complemented by great water views, while the Outsiderland art gallery showcases rule-breaking talents.

Tolhuistuin

Tolhuistuin is Noord’s dynamic cultural hotspot, gig venue and sanctuary for all art forms, mainstream or avant-garde. Every week Paradiso organises parties and other activities here, and hip-hop school Solid Ground Movement teaches and shows DJs, graffiti and dance.

On-site, you will find a sunny café-restaurant terrace along the River IJ, an idyllic garden, three theatre and concert halls, exhibition spaces, a hip-hop school and a children’s art centre.

TOLHUISWEG 3, TOLHUISTUIN.NL

Van der Pekstraat

Named after its architect, this vibrant street has much to offer, from an eponymous market (Wed, Fri-Sat) to interesting spots such as the inclusive toy shop Coloured Goodies, concept store Pek&Kleren, Indonesian eatery Kannibalen en Paradijsvogels, vintagefocused Treasure Depot, and cheese store & tasting room Proeflokaal Abraham Kef at the adjacent Van der Pekplein.

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Undoubtedly one of the most popular terrace bars in Amsterdam, this large hangar-style restaurant boasts an enviable city beach with a covetable view of the River IJ. On sultry summer evenings, relax here, sheltered from the wind, with your feet in the sand and a chilled drink in your hand. When it’s less warm, grab a spot next to the big campfire that regularly burns into the night – and if the flames get too much, why not be brazen and take a dip in the river.

Restaurant Freud

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Over het IJ Festival

Every July, Over het IJ Festival brings a summery blend of location-specific theatre, one-off performances and fabulous food to a range of shipping container stages and pop-up venues spread across NDSM Wharf.

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Oost

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Summer in Oosterpark

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Located on the roof of the Volkshotel, where the national newspaper De Volkskrant once rolled off the press, Canvas is a rooftop bar with panoramic city views and fantastic cocktails.

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enture over the River Amstel to Amsterdam Oost (East), where the spacious streets lined with Turkish supermarkets, nostalgic barbershops, laundrettes, Middle Eastern bakeries, Surinamese lunchroomsandtrendywinebarsreflect the diversity of the area’s residents.

Breweries, distilleries and foodie hotspots

The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where more than 200 stalls are laden with patterned textiles, fresh fish, colourful fruits and vats of flowers. On sunny days, crowds gather on the terraces of the area’s many microbreweries, including Poesiat & Kater or Brouwerij ‘t IJ – the iconic taproom housed under a historic windmill. Further east, lush Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ‘t Nieuwe Diep, serving the beloved Dutch genever from its tranquil lakeside tasting room. Elsewhere in the ‘hood’, restaurants such as De Kas

© DAVE PELHAM

Full of green spaces, entertainment and eateries, Oost is moving up quickly while retaining its unique charm.

and Wilde Zwijnen are redefining casual fine dining.

Cultural paradise

As Oost grows in size and popularity, it‘s also breeding more diverse and lively cultural offerings; not only is it home to the monumental Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropological museums, but also quirky institutions such as Museum Tot Zover and multidisciplinary venues such as Framer Framed for cutting-edge contemporary art and Studio/K for pioneering cinema. Along the River IJ, the Oostelijke Eilanden (Eastern Docklands) area boasts awe-inspiring feats of modernity, where historic warehouses have been repurposed into cultural hotspots, including Pakhuis de Zwijger and Mezrab for lectures, comedy and spoken word as well as the iconic Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ for mind-blowing classical music and BIMHUIS, the temple of modern jazz.

INSIDER TIP

‘Grab a sumo burger at the Vegan Junk Food Bar and then go for a walk through Oosterpark. It’s the best way to enjoy my favourite Amsterdam neighbourhood!’

Alex Kain (25), digital creative

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Park Frankendael

Framer Framed

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Park Frankendael is home to historic landscaped gardens and the imposing Huize Frankendael. You’ll also find De Kas, located in what is essentially a giant 1920s greenhouse that grows its own produce. Enjoy an unforgettable culinary experience based on fresh, seasonal produce with menus that are created daily. w

Curators and artists collide at this long-standing project space and arts foundation. Every year, Framer Framed collaborates with international talents to organise exhibitions and an extensive public programme of lectures, debates, screenings and performances. Viewers will be confronted with work at the cutting edge of contemporary art e

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Amsterdam remembers the abolition of slavery in its former colony Suriname in 1863 with Keti Koti at Oosterpark, with a parade and remembrance ceremony followed by music and performances.

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Mourning teapot

Museum Tot Zover

As befitting a funeral museum, Museum Tot Zover is located in a cemetery – the only Dutch museum to be – and housed in the former director’s residence.

The museum focuses on how different societies around the world approach the inevitability of death. Tot Zover offers an array of changing contemporary and historical exhibitions featuring art and photography, plus a growing selection of online galleries delving deep into our relationship with the afterlife.

KRUISLAAN 124, TOTZOVER.NL

Javastraat

Gentrification has set in, yet this street named after one of the Netherlands’ former spice islands remains a compelling melting pot. Highlights include coffee boutique Hartje Oost, plant paradise De Balkonie, Middle Eastern deli Tigris & Eufraat, streetwear stores DIV. Amsterdam (M/F) and cake shop Majesteit Taart.

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This local neighbourhood market is situated in one of the city’s most colourful and culturally diverse districts.

Open every day except Sunday, the Dappermarkt has about 200 stalls.

In addition to fresh produce, fish and meat, you’ll find speciality foods from a variety of countries, especially Suriname, Turkey and Morocco.

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Settle into Mezrab’s cosy floor cushions for a night of tall tales and real-life stories told by professional storytellers.

This unique cultural centre, located in Pakhuis Wilhelmina in the city’s Eastern Docklands, has grown into one of the best stages for spoken-word, improv and comedy in the city.

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Studio/K

Run by a team of enthusiastic students, this forward-looking centre functions as an arthouse cinema, a music venue, a gallery and a bar-restaurant. The two screening rooms lay on an outstanding range of quality films with a focus on cinema that has emerged from outside Hollywood. The gig agenda encompasses everything from singer-songwriter and jazz to rock and electronic.

Mezrab Cultural Centre

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Dappermarkt

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SMALL GROUP GUIDED TOURS BOOK ONLINE

DAMRAK 36, AMSTERDAM FAT-BIKETOURS.COM

Take in the city sights from the canals

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Mirror mirror on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all?

This brass moon (Madam Stoltz, €28) at Doordeweeks, of course. o

Create your own custom-designed rug during an English-spoken one-day tufting workshop at Shaggies Rugs (€150, incl. lunch and drinks).

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Distillery ’t Nieuwe Diep Located in a former pumping station in Flevopark, the tranquil terrace of this genever distillery is almost completely surrounded by water. Soak up the beautiful views over the lake as you sip on the best genevers and liqueurs from the tasting room.

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Breweries in Oost

Restaurant Freud

With breweries around every corner and under every windmill, Oost is something of a Valhalla for craft beer lovers. Let’s take Brouwerij ’t IJ s (Funenkade 7, brouwerijhetij.nl) to start with, which was an independent local microbrewery long before anyone dreamed up the modern terminology. Housed in a former bathhouse next to a proper Dutch windmill, the brewery bar boasts a large enclosed terrace that stays busy in all weathers. Next up, the tasting room at Poesiat & Kater d (Polderweg 648, poesiatenkater.nl) offers speciality brews with a side of history including the resurrected legendary Van Vollenhoven beer.

Or, for some fragrant grapefruit and lychee undertones to your beverage, sample classic concoctions from the heated terrace of De Eeuwige Jeugd f (Linnaeusstraat 37A, deeeuwigejeugd.nl).

Finally, quench your thirst in Krux Brouwwerf’s g beer garden (Cruquiusweg 83D, krux.nl) with a freshly-brewed pint of IPA from the everchanging taps.

Jildou Fleur (38) and Wiske Beemsterboer (40), owners at Doordeweeks Q: Where did the idea for your boutique come from?

A: ‘We’ve been friends for 22 years and one night in a café we decided to go for our dream. We outlined our idea for our concept store on a coaster: a place to shop for when you want to go to a party or festival or simply turn heads while walking down the street, and a décor collection with a Scandinavian twist.’

Q: Which brands do you stock?

A: ‘Our range includes Nakd, Loavies, Mbym, Nordal, Madam Stoltz and Never Fully Dressed, and we’re currently developing a T-shirt collection.

Q: What are you crushing on right now?

A: ‘We’re loving all the bright colours and high-waisted styles, and the fact that we made it through the lockdown.’

Q: Why should everyone go to Oostpoort?

A: ‘It’s where all of the Eastside shops.’

WALDENLAAN 204 DOORDEWEEKS.COM

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Circl is a meeting place, living lab and restaurant all in one, set in the city’s most circular building, created entirely of recycled or reusable items (old jeans as insulation!).

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Southern Style Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan elegance.

Streets of luxury

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Just off Museumplein, you’ll find an array of designer shops and luxury hotels sprinkled along the flashy P.C. Hooftstraat all the way up to the Willemsparkweg. Surrounded by ravishing villas and tranquil curving streets, the nearby Vondelpark – created in the style of an English landscape garden – is the city’s most popular playground.

A magnet for picnickers, visitors flock in their droves during the summer months to the numerous

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outdoor performances that take place there.

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rom age-old art to high-end chic, the stately museums and up-market boutiques of Oud-Zuid (Old South) lend the district a luxurious edge. The crown jewel is Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum presides, flaunting 800 years of Dutch art history. It’s also home to the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and the Royal Concertgebouw. Close by are live music temples Melkweg and Paradiso.

Bohemian vibes

Amsterdam Zuid also boasts its own bohemian Latin Quarter, De Pijp.

This neighbourhood oozes villagelike charm and is a popular haunt for creatives, young internationals and students. The district’s main arteries, Albert Cuypstraat and Ferdinand Bolstraat are a true melting pot of nationalities and every conceivable cuisine. From Middle Eastern and North African lunchrooms to high-end teppanyaki and Vietnamese street food, the neighbourhood’s cultural diversity shines through in its restaurants. Along the famous Albert Cuyp Market, brunch spots and juice bars are nestled among historic bruine cafés and old-school fruit stalls. The area is also a lively after-work hangout with streets such as Eerste van der Helststraat brimming with cocktail bars and terraces drawing in punters from all over the city every evening.

INSIDER TIP

‘Café Welling is a hidden gem that you wouldn’t even know was there. Even though it’s close by the touristic Museumplein, it’s a proper locals’ bar, with a classic Amsterdam atmosphere and clientele.’

Shady El-Hamus (34), filmmaker

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Zuid

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

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Albert Cuyp Market

De Pijp is perhaps most famous for the Albert Cuyp Market, which has been offering its wares for more than a century. Stroll past the stalls and see vendors sell everything from fresh seafood, meat and cheese to flowers, clothes and jewellery. For the real Dutch street food experience, you’ll need to stop by one of the old-school haringhandels to sample fresh herring or kibbeling.

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Specialised in exclusive handcrafted wooden furniture since 1908, this Nordic design collective opened its first flagship store in the Netherlands last year. Shop famous designs such as Hans J. Wegner’s minimalist mid-century Wishbone Chair (€508), enduringly stylish Mama Bear Chair (from €3,632) and work by contemporary artists such as Ditte Blohm, whose unusual ceramics with characteristic ‘porcelain thorns’ (from €30) are worth seeking out.

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Monster Toy puppets (€59).

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SHOWIEST SHOPPING STREET

Strandzuid

Located just a short walk away from the floral gardens of Beatrixpark and the RAI Amsterdam conference centre, Strandzuid is an unexpected spot to find an urban beach and microbrewery. The restaurant menu offers plenty of fish, meat and vegetarian options and, for a summertime flavour boost, many dishes are prepared on the traditional charcoal grill.

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For stylish women’s jeans, shoes and bags by Dutch designer label Wandler (Lin bag, €775), head to multi-brand boutique Pauw.

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If you’re looking to flash that cash, strut down the city’s famous shopping street where you’ll spot the likes of Chanel, Fendi and Louis Vuitton and jewellery boutiques Schaap en Citroen, GASSAN, IWC Schaffhausen, Cartier, Chopard and Tiffany & Co. There are also a few interesting lifestyle stores, such as the TASCHEN Store and newcomer Cybex.

OCCII

OCCII is a not-for-profit music venue that, like several of Amsterdam’s independent cultural centres, credits its development to the squatting movement of the late 80s and 90s. The colourful Russian folk designs on the tall front doors hint at the building’s original purpose as a tram depot. You’ll find a diverse range of alternative musical genres catered to as well as a special theatre programme for children and a vegan café.

AMSTELVEENSEWEG 134, OCCII.ORG

Amstelpark is an expansive park filled with a multitude of flower gardens and recreational areas. It’s a popular spot for families thanks to the mini-train, various playgrounds, a hedge maze, mini-golf course and a petting zoo. At its southern end you’ll find the Rieker windmill, a rose garden and even a Japanese garden.

There is also an on-site gallery with two exhibition spaces.

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Amstelpark

Rialto

Dominating the skyline of De Pijp with its spectacular Art Deco façade, the Rialto has been a much-loved neighbourhood cinema since the 1920s. The venue spotlights an eclectic mix of foreign-language titles, documentaries and art-house films and inside, you’ll find three screens as well as a stylish bar. Watch international films with English subtitles on Mondays and catch the World Cinema Amsterdam festival in August.

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Amsterdam Central Station, IJ-side www.iamsterdam.com/webshop

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Designed in Amsterdam and handmade in Portugal from Italian suede, Wahts’ slip-on sneaker (€229) is quite the globetrotter.

Zuid

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Donsje Flagship Store

If you have little ones in your family, do check out this local childrenswear label (ages 6 months to 8 years), which combines whimsical designs, natural fabrics and intricate embroidery. The theme of each collection, for example the recent ‘seaside escapes’ for summer, is carried throughout – from sandals and sundresses (from €74) to beach bags and bathing suits, with hairclips (€14) to match. Dutch fashion doesn’t get more adorable.

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Gozo Schoolbag (€199) Donsje.

St. Ape

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If your aesthetic is monochrome, minimalist and modern, you’ll go bananas for this new Dutch brand with its luxury leather and brut denim readyto-wear fashion. The collection features navy pinstriped bomber jackets (€445) and tapered black jeans (€295) for him and striped black-and-white denim jumpsuits (€525) and lamb’s leather biker jackets with padding and studs (€800) for her. d

Cinetol

A fantastic multifunctional venue that feeds the creative community of De Pijp. There’s a small stage that hosts weekly live music from alternative bands and electro-indie pop to jazz and punk acts. Tolbar is located at the bottom of the building, serving up snacks and drinks on the lively terrace.

Restaurant Freud

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INSIDER INTERVIEW Karen Limpens (39), general manager Netherlands at baby store Cybex Q: Why open a flagship store in Amsterdam, and why on the posh P.C.?

A: ‘The timing was right, and the street has the right image.

We want to create a true brand experience so that people can shop for one of the most emotional buys in their life in a relaxed environment.’

Q: Can people purchase the whole Cybex range here?

A: ‘We offer our bestselling selection to view and try out in-store and other products via iPad (for delivery within 2-4 days). And, of course, there’s our collab with the famous Dutch designer Marcel Wanders, including the Hausschwein (€199.95) storage unit, Wanders Rocker (€339.95) and Monster Toy puppets (€59).’

Q: What is your personal favourite from the range?

A: ‘Our Libelle buggy, which makes moving around with kids in cities and travelling so much easier!’

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West

66 | text: HIPKarin ANDEngelbrecht HAPPENING

Bosboom Toussaintstraat

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Social enterprise Zuivere Koffie roasts and packages its life-changing coffee (from €7.95 from Gekaapt) in Zaanstad prison.

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Go West

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riginally a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how Amsterdam has revitalised its neighbourhoods outside the Canal Ring. Fifteen years ago, the old gas factories in peaceful Westerpark were restored and transformed.

Today, Westergasfabriek is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses, overflowing with nightlife options such as pop-up DJ bar Radio Radio, trendy restaurants and even TonTon Club Westergas, a retro arcade bar.

There’s plenty to enjoy including markets with lots of bites and booze on offer, live music and regular festivals. Next to Westerpark is the cosy Spaarndammerbuurt neighbourhood, full of early 20th-century history, including Amsterdam School-icon Museum Het Schip.

The energy of Oud-West

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In the same vein, tranquil Oud-West (Old West) has come out of its residential snooze. This cosmopolitan area is full of shops and eateries in-

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terspersed between the leafy residential avenues that border Vondelpark. Busy shopping streets such as De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the area with its many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A diverse selection of food, vintage fashion and films are available at De Hallen, an old tram depot turned indie cultural centre.

BoLo

The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes, two districts that are becoming hipper and more happening faster than you can say ‘BoLo’. Boasting an array of speciality coffee joints, canalside bars, cool art spaces, neighbourhood parks and a young and multicultural crowd, this increasingly popular corner of Amsterdam is rapidly expanding into one of the city’s most dynamic creative outposts. Don’t miss the distinctive Amsterdam School-style architecture around Mercatorplein, featuring sculptural brick and Art Deco aesthetic notes.

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Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, eat and do in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

INSIDER TIP

‘The Rusty Gold MotorShop on Overtoom is a motorcycle lifestyle shop that sells good-quality clothing and helmets, and serves up really great coffee. The owner Zoran is amazing! While you’re there you can check out some bikes and talk all things motorcycles with the other customers and staff.’

Chris van der Krieke (38), entrepreneur

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On the first Sunday of the month, Sunday Market Westergas fills the Westergasterrein and market hall with food trucks, live bands and plenty of stalls where you can browse for unique locally-made items, affordable art, vintage fashion and more.

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Radio Radio This pop-up DJ bar in Westerpark plays sets all night long every Thursday to Sunday. You can expect a curation of the coolest sounds from all over the world, and they livestream too. Stop by their Pizza Pizza restaurant for pizza, natural wines and more, before heading back to the dancefloor or settling down on the terrace.

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No Man’s Art Gallery

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What started as a travelling gallery more than ten years ago, No Man’s Art Gallery now showcases a rotating programme of international early-career artists at its permanent location. After catching an exhibition, the restaurant and bar is a great place to unwind with cocktails or coffee with a small bites menu that carefully balances flavours from across the world.

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Raise a toast at the weekendlong TAPT festival in Rembrandtpark, with great beers, wine, outdoor games and plenty of opportunities to chill on the grass with your pals.

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MAIN SHOPPING STREET

Kinkerstraat

All housed in a converted tram depot that’s had something of a facelift, De Hallen comprises not just a great range of artisan shops but a hip industrial-chic hotel, De Filmhallen (the largest independent cinema in the Netherlands), and an indoor food court, De Foodhallen, packed with dozens of pop-up eateries. This cultural complex also hides several lively spots such as Kanarie Club, a concept bar and workspace for those who like to work and play hard.

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Find stylish rings – 14k gold-filled or sterling silver – at The Gathershop.

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The Gathershop

The canals in Oud-West are some of the most beautiful stretches in the city, quieter than in the centre and great fun to explore in a rented boat or on a Stand-Up Paddleboard (SUP).

Canal SUP provides board rentals for anywhere between one to eight hours. Their location along the Sloterkade gives you access to scenic routes in Oud-West and you are just a few paddle strokes away from the city centre.

With a background in architecture and interior design, it’s no coincidence that Jessica Chapman’s ‘little store selling lovely objects’ always looks ready for its close-up. Chapman believes ‘in the unique value of simple things’ such as handmade jewellery and homewares from small design studios, as well as natural skincare, plants and dried flowers.

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Though it was named after a poet, most of the stores on this thoroughfare are rather prosaic. That said, there’s a good range for every budget, including local chains such as Zeeman, Kruidvat and HEMA. Highlights include the trendy Gekaapt concept store, Lot 61 coffee roasters and self-titled ‘spice heaven’ De Volkskruidentuin, and nearby charming Ten Katemarkt daily market and popular Foodhallen food court.

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De Hallen

Ketelhuis Cinema

Originally a pop-up cinema in the Westergas cultural complex, Ketelhuis is now an important Amsterdam landmark for Dutch cinema, international arthouse and documentary film. The driving force behind the venue is a dedicated team of volunteers who keep an eye on the smooth projection of the films and keep the food and drinks flowing from behind the well-stocked bar.

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What does gambling cost you? Quit in time. 18+ Hollandcasino.nl

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Markt Centraal

INSIDER INTERVIEW

This enormous indoor space hidden in the heart of the city was first opened in 1934 as the main trading centre for fruit, vegetables, meat and fish. The building has stood empty for the past 20 years, but is now being repurposed into a lively meeting place for foodies, local entrepreneurs and creatives working in culture, fashion, music and theatre. Check out the agenda for live music and food events. There’s even a mini train that will transfer you to and from the entrance gate.

On one side of the depot building you can also spot a colossal mural painted by Keith Haring in 1986, one of his few surviving public works, that was recently uncovered and restored. And if you’re returning to Amsterdam in a few years, be sure to check out how the area has developed into a full-blown residential district, the Marktkwartier West.

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TonTon Club Westergas

There are plenty of fantastic bars in Westerpark, but only one of them has retro arcade games, pinball machines and a special room dedicated to Dance Dance Revolution. American and Japanese cultures collide into a world of neon at TonTon Club West, an exciting gaming paradise spread across indoor and outdoor areas. Highlights on the fusion menu include ramen burgers, takoyaki, dumplings and alcoholic milkshakes.

For unisex hoodies and streetwear with serious street cred, look no further than this popular local label. The brand’s signature designs combine its founders’ heritage and passion for fashion to create a look of contemporary cool with an African edge. Loving the streetwear vibe? See page 6 for more.

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Daily Paper

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Jutka Volkerts, founder JUTKA & RISKA Q: JUTKA & RISKA carries both your own-label and vintage.

How would you describe your boutique?

A: ‘It’s a colourful concept store with a mix of our Amsterdamfounded fashion label’s newest collections, handpicked (designer) vintage items, and unique customised vintage, upcycled and handmade pieces.’

Q: What is the JUTKA & RISKA aesthetic?

A: ‘We believe in the freedom of self-expression and the limitless possibilities of the imagination.

Real beauty is experiencing your creativity and feeling the power to be yourself! People feel free to do so at our store.’

Q: Which other brands do you sell?

A: ‘Products from female-founded small businesses like Minced Milk, Joli Unique and CIME.’ Q: What makes the Bilderdijkstraat a great place to shop?

A: ‘Amsterdam West’s evolved into a great place for vintage and concept shopping. With lots of great (new) shops, coffee places and cute restaurants just around the corner.’

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Nieuw-West

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Cultural hotspots are popping up all over Nieuw-West, bringing fresh innovation and social soul to this green neighbourhood.

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opportunities for relaxation and recreation – whether that’s cycling, kayaking or simply taking a stroll, stopping off at one of the area’s new and trendy coffee spots or lakeside terraces.

Cultural highlights

But it's not all peace and quiet at this end of town. Venues such as the Meervaart theatre and the Van Eesteren Museum are important cultural spaces, while RADION hosts everything from

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uilt during the expansion of Amsterdam’s western neighbourhoods in the 1950s, Nieuw-West is the largest and greenest district in the city. Diverse and spacious, the area incorporates leafy residential districts with culturally rejuvenated former business parks all surrounding the tranquil Sloterplas lake.

From Rembrandtpark all the way up to the historic village of Sloten, you’ll find countless

INSIDER TIP

MET SABOR

Conveniently positioned within easy walking distance from Rembrandtpark and Sloterplas lake, Met Amsterdam’s 56 hotel rooms encapsulate no-nonsense luxury. The on-site restaurant MET SABOR (opening mid June) is a stylish location to dine at, offering flavourful Latin-inspired food paired with Caribbean snacks and cocktails. Stand-out dishes include the ceviche (Peruvian raw fish), the sancocho (Colombian chicken soup) and the vegan patacones (fried plantains).

‘Sloterplas is my favourite spot in Nieuw-West. It’s perfect for running as one lap around it is 6km. This past winter I’ve also been swimming in the lake every day. It’s a relaxing place to get your fix of nature outside of the busy city.’

MARIUS BAUERSTRAAT 401, METSABOR.NL

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Organic fruit farm Fruittuin van West welcomes pick-your-own fans with open arms. Restaurant Het Rijk van de Keizer is hidden among the greenery.

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The great outdoors

In a neighbourhood as vast and varied as Nieuw-West, you’ll find lots of outdoor things to do for kids and families. There’s Street Art Museum Amsterdam and

BRET ORLYPLEIN 76, BRET.BAR

at the very edge of Nieuw-West is De Lange Bretten nature reserve.

You’ll also find the Natureluur nature playground here, where kids of all ages can climb trees and venture across the watercourse and through the mud.

Nieuw-West is a paradise for children – and adults – who like to get stuck into the action!

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Meervaart

Van Eesteren Museum

Devoted entirely to architect and urban planner Cornelis van Eesteren, the Van Eesteren Museum is a collection of indoor pavilions and open-air exhibits encompassing houses, gardens and entire suburbs. The museum gives insight into Van Eesteren’s ambitious plans for the extension of Amsterdam, showcasing the neighbourhood of Nieuw-West as the pinnacle of post-war urban development and architecture.

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The Meervaart theatre is the beating heart of Nieuw-West’s cultural scene, as both a platform for the performing arts and an important social space. This modern venue hosts around 280 cultural performances per year, including shows by big international touring companies, homegrown multicultural cabaret acts and a special children’s talent development programme.

Plein ’40-’45 Market

A colourful mix of locals flock to find everything from fabrics to flowers and giant wheels of cheese at this large, lively neighbourhood market (Tues-Sat, from 09:00).

This is the place to try authentic Turkish kebabs, pistachio baklava (try Şerifoġlu Café & Patisserie for the best ones!), Moroccan fish pastilla (pie), and more.

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photo exhibitions to booming techno nights. Meanwhile, new concepts pop up everywhere. Take beer bar BRET, concealed in repurposed shipping containers and with its own urban vineyard and roof garden, or new restaurant MET SABOR, a stylish eatery with Caribbean vibes. Likewise, locals make great use of the area’s outdoor spaces, with a range of festivals, sports events and food markets taking place throughout the year.

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Nine Streets

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Cire Trudon candles were once favoured by Louis XV and the Reggio’s citrusy scent is certainly fit for a king (€39 at De Bijenkorf).

Iconic Amsterdam

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he cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring is defined by its contrasts. De Wallen (The Red Light District) is a fantastic juxtaposition of historic churches, romantic bridges, age-old architecture and late-night pursuits. Elsewhere, hidden-gem museums such as Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder or Huis Marseille are often hidden behind the beautiful façades of leaning gabled houses. The historic Spiegelkwartier is an absolute must for lovers of art, antiques and curiosities, as specialised dealers offer a wide variety of treasures. Gone are the souvenir shops as soon as you cross into the elegant Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets) area, where fashion designers and the city’s artisans show off their quality wares.

At home in the Jordaan

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A few steps further and the flowery Jordaan welcomes you to Amsterdam’s real life. This once workingclass bastion was renowned for tight community bonds, radical politics and a love for drink and sing-a-longs.

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Gentrification of decades past has attracted galleries, restaurants and speciality shops to its scenic streets but there’s undeniably still a distinct atmosphere to be enjoyed here. The bustling markets and cafés merge into Haarlemmerstraat and Haarlemmerdijk, which are lined with vintage boutiques, concept stores and countless options for lunch and coffee.

Cultural quarter

Just east of the centre, De Plantage is a lush cultural garden with elegant tree-lined boulevards. Among the theatres, concert halls and public parks, you’ll find a wealth of institutions dedicated to fine art, Jewish culture and natural history, including the Jewish Cultural Quarter, Artis Zoo and Hortus Botanicus. The development of Artisplein and world-class museums such as Het Rembrandthuis mean the area is heralded as the alternative museum quarter. The former warehouses along the Entrepotdok or around the Marineterrein have since been converted into exhibition spaces,

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The world-famous historic Canal Ring is a stunning sight, but there is so much more to the city centre than first meets the eye.

INSIDER TIP

‘I recommend Mail & Female, the perfect place for people who haven’t been into a sex shop before to start. The space is light, airy and open, and the staff are really nice and super helpful so you always feel comfortable.’

Saïda Ragas (24), dancer & artist

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Centrum

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Het Rembrandthuis

This beautifully restored townhouse captures the far-reaching legacy of Rembrandt van Rijn. The legendary painter lived here for several decades when he was at the height of his career. See where Rembrandt created many of his most famous works in the studio, admire a large display of original etchings and explore the living quarters for a glimpse into his everyday life.

JODENBREESTRAAT 4, REMBRANDTHUIS.NL

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Waterlooplein flea market

Waterlooplein flea market is the oldest street market in the Netherlands, open six days a week and with over 300 stalls. Expect to find all manner of treasures, vinyl and vintage goods, clothes, food and jewellery. You might want to brush up on your bargaining skills: most stalls sell things cheaply, but a few might expect you to haggle.

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The woodsy HUNQ Carpenter combines pink pepper, cardamom and cedarwood (€149 for 100ml).

HUNQ Store

Noordermarkt

A flea market and farmers’ market in one, Noordermarkt’s Saturday stalls are a haven for delicious, organic produce, cheese and homemade cakes, as well as antiques, books Noorderkerk and vintage fashion. To avoid the weekend crowds, you can also head there on Monday mornings – and it’s worth stopping for a comforting slice of apple pie at the famous Winkel 43 nearby. On the same square, a fascinating new exhibition Vincent meets Rembrandt: the Untold Story (till October) reveals the similarities between the Dutch Baroque master and the world-renowned Post-Impressionist painter. The story unfolds amid a continuously changing 360degree canvas on the ancient inner walls of the Noorderkerk. © KOEN SMILDE

Find your ‘inner hunk’ at this fragrance brand store, which aims to seduce the senses by way of five male archetypes – from the clean-cut gardener and bad boy barman to the sexy mechanic, spicy carpenter and alluring lifeguard.

Available in hefty square glass bottles, each fragrance is classic with a playful twist that smells as expensive as its price tag.

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HUNQ. AMSTERDAM

Mediamatic

Bold, groundbreaking and always intriguing, this art centre has been creating installations that celebrate biotechnology, media and organic cuisine since 1983. The waterfront restaurant breathes new life into plant-based dining with inventive dishes that showcase the city’s best locally sourced ingredients, largely grown in the kitchen’s very own greenhouse.

Restaurant Freud

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Bitterzoet

Bitterzoet has established itself as one of Amsterdam’s core music venues, both in collaboration with pop temple Paradiso, as well as an independent party location. Every day there is a different DJ line-up, band or theatre production, attracting a musically eclectic fan base: from rock through punk, hip-hop, soul and funk to reggae – and everything in between.

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FEEL LIKE YOU’VE Lived here Your whoLe Life EXPERIENCE LIFE IN THE NETHERLANDS AT IAMSTERDAM.COM/FEELINGATHOME

discover the amsterdam area by bike

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Centrum

Café ’t Mandje (established in 1927) was the very first genuine gay pub of Amsterdam. Legendary!

ENDLESSLY ENTERTAINING

ZEEDIJK 63, CAFETMANDJE.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW

B.L.A.H. Store

Near the Rijksmuseum, in Amsterdam’s antique district, you’ll find trendy sneakers (from €189.95) and chunky boots (from €219.95) with edgy, minimalist designs and quirky colour combinations at the flagship store of a new Amsterdam-based footwear brand with a rather provocative name.

B.L.A.H. believes in ‘good shoes, made well’ and ‘mostly sustainably’ but without the ‘blah blah’ of greenwashing.

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Dignita Hoftuin

Enjoy great coffee, brunch and an eyepopping spread of pastries at Dignita, a sun-soaked café set in the exquisite Hoftuin gardens. As you’re munching on carrot cake or the signature eggs benedict (two particularly highly-rated menu items), you can feel good as the restaurant is part of a not-for-profit initiative that helps vulnerable adults to get back into the workplace.

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This Spanish fashion ‘collective’ opened its first store in the Netherlands in the heart of Amsterdam’s most popular shopping district last December. It’s known for its full-on colours, edgy prints, original combination of textures and collabs with multi-disciplinary artists from around the world. a

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Boris van Rijckevorsel (33), store manager at Güney’s Delights Q: What was the idea behind opening a wine shop specialising in Turkish wine?

A: ‘We hope to (re)introduce people to wine from one of the world’s oldest wine-producing countries. Amsterdam, with its open-mindedness to new flavours, seemed to be the perfect place to do so.’

Q: Why did you choose Utrechtsestraat as your base?

A: ‘It’s so vibrant, with a vast array of small independent shops.’

Q: What’s your favourite wine right now?

A: ‘A blanc de noir from Chamlija.

It’s a white wine made from red grapes that’ll blow your mind.’

Q: What’s special about your shop?

A: ‘Most of the wines we carry are from the best boutique wineries and have never been sold outside of Turkey – some not even outside of their region!

If you’re willing to taste outside the box and take a deep dive into indigenous Turkish grape varieties, rather than the usual suspects, give us a try.’

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Circus, dance, music and theatre find a place in Bijlmer Parktheater.

There’s an innovative schedule of performances and activities reflecting the community’s multicultural background.

Zuidoost

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With a lively cultural scene, green spaces and large-scale entertainment, Zuidoost gives a whole new perspective of Amsterdam.

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mega concerts or Star Trek Marathons; and their schedules are always full.

Green spaces

Zuidoost has culture, but it also has green. Gaasperplas is a gem of a space, an intricate web of streams and bridges, beaches and paths for walking, hiking, biking and horse-riding. Those wanting to dance the night away can keep an eye out for festivals such as the Amsterdam Open

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uidoost is about as far away as you can get from your typical canals-andclogs image of Amsterdam, but as one of the most culturally diverse, green and forward-facing districts, it is a side of the city that shouldn’t be overlooked. It is also home to all that is big in the world of entertainment. The Johan Cruijff ArenA, Ziggo Dome and AFAS Live are where you’ll want to be if you’re looking for football matches,

Brouwerij Kleiburg

Based on the site of a former abbey, Kleiburg brewery makes beers according to age-old monastic traditions. It’s also a social enterprise in which a portion of profits goes directly back into the monastery’s activities for the good of the people. Enjoy a brew on the terrace, with a view of the kettles, or head into De Proefzaak, the tasting room located in a spacious green hangar.

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INSIDER TIP

‘Go to Oma Ietje on Heesterveld and enjoy some drinks and a nice lunch. The coffee is especially good.

Once you’re done there, take a walk through the H-buurt to spot all the street art!’

Evelien Oosterom (30), social & cultural entrepreneur

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Kwaku Summer Festival brings people and cultures together for a vibrant combination of live performances, lectures, dance, sports and sizzling street food in Nelson Mandela Park.

16 JULY-7 AUGUST, KWAKUFESTIVAL.NL

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Air and the Reggae Lake Festival. A bit further east is Bijlmerweide, a beautiful and family-friendly farm and café, and there are plans to create a park on top of a tunnel that stretches from Gaasperdam to De Bijlmer. e

Indoor and outdoor

In the summer, Nelson Mandela Park plays host to the fantastic Kwaku Summer Festival, a multi-weekend event with live performances, sports, dozens of food and shopping stalls, and a host of lectures. Or if you’d like to pick up some Surinamese roti, African fufu, Japanese sushi or a Turkish grill plate – and would rather not spend a fortune on airfare – then World of Food is a 3,000m2 complex of cuisine from all over the planet. Over in

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the more residential borough of De Bijlmer, you’ll find surprising cultural highlights such as the Open Space Contemporary Art Museum (OSCAM) and film festival turned arthouse cinema venue Bijlmerbios.

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Low on pretence but bursting with flavours, this 3,000m2 food court housed in a car park offers your taste buds a trip around the world via a line-up of 25 kitchens that range from Ghanaian to Thai. Whether it’s the Moroccan snapper with cassava or roti chicken, there’ll be flavours to delight and impress you. e

Africa beauty couture Situated in the richly diverse Amsterdamse Poort shopping district, this atelier-slash-boutique combines traditional African wax prints with a contemporary Western style.

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Working with Amsterdam’s leading cultural institutions, Open Space Contemporary Art Museum (OSCAM) stages accessible exhibitions designed to attract youth to the Bijlmer through high-quality art, fashion and design.

Catch exhibitions involving both known and unknown creative talent such as Bout It #3, which celebrates the feminine visions that have enriched hip-hop and Digital Expressions: Jacque Njeri (both until 16 July).

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World of Food

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Discover Castles & Gardens visitgooivecht.com

30 minutes from Amsterdam

#visitgooivecht

ILLUSTRATION: © MONIQUE WIJBRANDS, SALT YSTOCK

Experience the Marker Wadden and be amazed

visitlelystad.nl

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Day Trips

84 Castles & Gardens 87 New Land 88 Beaches 90 Haarlem 94 Old Holland 96 Flowers

Discover the Amsterdam Area TEXT: VERITY SEWARD

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Find out more about day trips and the region on: iamsterdam. com/area

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Beyond the city

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Venture out of Amsterdam to discover beautiful nature, iconic artworks and carefully preserved Dutch traditions. In less than 30 minutes from Amsterdam city centre, you’ll find cultural cities such as Haarlem, beaches and dunes, the majestic windmills at Zaanse Schans, the famous tulip fields of the Keukenhof, and historic towns such as Edam, Naarden and Volendam. All of which are perfect for a day trip!

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Castles & Gardens 84 | WHERE HISTORY MEETS HORTICULTURE

Riverside Mansions & Fortress Towns

Singer Laren Museum

Originally a villa built by American painter William Henry Singer, the Singer Laren Museum was recently renovated – including a brand new wing – and named Building of the Year 2022 for its prestigious architecture. Preserving the work of the Laren School and William Singer’s art collection, it includes work by Bart van der Leck, Jan Sluijters and Leo Gestel. The museum also has a café, a beautiful sculpture garden and an ever-changing line-up of exhibitions.

Explore 17th-century history by visiting ancient castles and country estates. And while you’re at it, sail along the rivers dreaming of an aristocratic life by the water.

SINGERLAREN.NL

Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot

The Amsterdam Area is full of sleepy little villages where you can find the remains of castles dating back to medieval times. Muiden is home to the grand Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot – built around 1285 – which looms over the mouth of the River Vecht. Take a tour through the impressive knight’s hall, towers, dungeon and armoury, or dress up like a real knight and try your hand at jousting.

MUIDERSLOT.NL

Museum Hilversum

Fort Pampus

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Seen across the water, the small island of Pampus looks like any other island. But take a closer look and you’ll see this is no natural land mass at all, but a submerged sea fort built in the 1890s to protect Amsterdam from its enemies.

After a restoration in 2007, you can now visit Fort Pampus by boat (take the ferry from Amsterdam IJburg) to explore its secret tunnels – and it’s also a popular location for events. The island fort was once part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam and makes for an interesting day out for visitors of all ages, with historical artefacts to discover around the island.

Located in Hilversum’s 250-yearold town hall, this inspiring museum has a special focus on new media arts and photography. On top of a changing programme of roughly ten exhibitions a year, the museum hosts both World Press Photo and De Zilveren Camera – the most important journalistic photo competition in the country.

Keep an eye on the agenda for lectures, performances or media labs and drop by the cosy café for refreshments during your visit.

MUSEUMHILVERSUM.NL

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Winding its way between Amsterdam and Utrecht, the River Vecht is a wonderful place for a cycling tour. De Fietsboot (bike boat) lets you hop on and off and continue by bikes as you please.

DEFIETSBOOT.NL

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel

Not far from Amsterdam, going south alongside the River Amstel, you will find a stunning, peaceful spot of countryside. Here you can lose yourself in swaying reeds, green meadows and historic villages, including Ouderkerk aan de Amstel (be sure to visit the Beth Haim cemetery, filled with ornate gravestones carved in marble and featuring beautiful inscriptions in Dutch, Portuguese and Hebrew). Touring this region will make you feel just like a famous 17th-century artist might have, and to really emphasise that feeling take a romantic stroll and enjoy dinner in one of the area’s many quality eateries and cafés.

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Fortress towns

With its massive fortresses and castles, the region once provided protection against the Netherlands’ enemies with its many fortresses. Now, visitors can roam the bastions and imagine life hundreds of years ago. Naarden is one of the most remarkable examples of a fortified town in Europe, with its centre surrounded by two elaborate star-shaped moats and stonewalls. As well as cafés and shops, Naarden is home to the Nederlands Vestingmuseum (Dutch Fortress Museum). It’s a fantastic starting point for exploring De Stelling van Amsterdam (the Defence Line of Amsterdam), a 135-kilometre-long ring of fortifications around the Dutch capital.

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Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on iamsterdam. com/castles

Picturesque Weesp

The newest municipality to have been absorbed into the city of Amsterdam, Weesp is a quaint riverside city district in the heart of the Vechtstreek and famed for its historic buildings and influence on the chocolate industry. Located in the south east of the city, Weesp dates back to the 14th century and – as you’d expect – features fortifications and battlements. Its rich architecture includes the spectacular Ossenmarkt and Issenmeer forts, a stunning interwoven canal network, three historical windmills and several buildings that date back to the 17th and 18th centuries – a time of rapid growth and prosperity. Weesp’s former town hall – a stately, neoclassical building – now houses the municipal museum, devoted largely to 18thcentury porcelain crafts.

VISITGOOIVECHT.NL

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How to get there Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Weesp, then transfer to bus 110 and get off at bus stop Muiden centrum - 30 minutes Naarden: Take bus 209 from Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA to bus stop Westwalstraat, Naarden - 40 minutes Hilversum: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Hilversum - 20 minutes

VISITGOOIVECHT.NL, DEFENCELINEAMSTERDAM.COM

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Floriade 86 | ADVERTORIAL

The Art Pavilion Flevoland, a uniquely designed floating building, showcases a fusion of architecture, art and nature.

International horticulture exhibition Floriade Expo 2022 has opened its doors. Don’t miss your chance to enjoy the green life at this unique exposition.

The Green Life

Around the world

Countries around the world have built pavilions showcasing how they envision green cities of the future, based on their own traditions of cultivation. Discover the colours, smells and tastes of Italy in its sustainable Mediterranean garden, experience the calming power of nature in India’s garden, or relax in Thailand’s garden full of water lilies.

Float in the sky

Reaching different areas of the Floriade park is easy, but for a faster way to get from one end to the other – and for spectacular views – step into the 850-metre-long cable car. Floating 35 metres up, you will enjoy a colourful view of the Floriade grounds. As well as transporting visitors in a novel way, the cable car aims to highlight a potential mode of sustainable transport for cities.

The Floriade, which only takes place once a decade in the Netherlands, is filled with beautiful gardens, fun attractions, art and culture, playgrounds, delicious food options and much more.

The theme of ‘Growing Green Cities’ allows visitors to experience how cities can be made greener, more sustainable and more fun. Discover how green living can become reality in our cities and how you yourself can be a part of these changes. Over 400 national and international participants present their solutions for a green future at Floriade, including entries from Asia, Africa and the Middle East. This summer and autumn, you can explore the colourful 60-hectare park in Almere, just a short train ride from Amsterdam. Don’t miss it!

UNTIL 9 OCTOBER, FLORIADE.COM

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Discover green living

Wander through an alphabetically arranged library of trees and plants in the arboretum, or marvel at delicious fruit, including apples and strawberries in the orchard. At The Green House, follow the journey from seed to fruit and vegetables on your plate, and in the Technical Innovation Centre, get a glimpse into the future of farming with robots and drones.

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New Land TAMING THE SEA

© ALMERE CIT YMARKETING

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ new-land

Where Man Meets Nature

© CL AIRE DOPPERT

Land Art

Flevoland is home to the world’s biggest concentration of Land Art – huge artworks made in, with and as a response to the surrounding landscape. There are nine works by artists including Antony Gormley, Daniel Libeskind and Richard Serra. The pieces vary greatly: some refer directly to the surrounding nature and the (short) history of the land they’re in, while others are inspired precisely by how untouched and fresh the landscape is. Here for the first weekend of June? Lucky you – it’s Land Art Weekend, when guides will be available to answer all your questions.

LANDARTFLEVOLAND.NL

Almere

architecture tour With a history going back to just 1976, Almere is considered the Netherlands’ newest city. Don’t let that fool you, as in just a few decades it has grown into a hub of world-class architecture, drawing on the latest innovations in design. Go on an architectural tour to discover the Regenboogbuurt; De Fantasie, which was built following a contest among architects; and the Rode Donders, three large red silo-like buildings that tower over the water.

VISITALMERE.COM

© KOEN SMILDE

For centuries, the Dutch have reclaimed large areas of land from the sea. This man-made land provides vast scenic views, new cities filled with imaginative architecture and not-to-be-missed land art.

Batavialand

The main attraction of museumslash-attraction Batavialand is the perfect reconstruction of the 17thcentury ship, the Batavia, towering over the wharf. The Flevoland Museum also tells the story of this once-sunken region.

New Land nature

As the world’s largest man-made national park, Nieuw Land National Park is a must-see if you want to admire some of the Netherlands’ most beautiful scenery.

Consisting of lakes and spectacular landscapes, the park also offers a variety of natural habitats – you can spot rare birds, deer, cattle and Konik ponies.

Close by there’s Marker Wadden, a unique nature reserve still in development. As new plants blossom both under and above water, it is quickly becoming a paradise for fish and birds.

BATAVIALAND.NL Almere City Centre: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Almere Centrum - 20 minutes Batavia Stad and Batavialand: Batavia Stad Shopping Shuttle Bus departs daily from Amsterdam River Cruise Port (De Ruijterkade 153), free with your City Card Nieuw Land National Park: Train to Almere Oostvaarders. From there it’s a 20 minute walk to the visitor centre - 60 minutes

VISITFLEVOLAND.COM

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Beaches 88 | NEVER-ENDING COASTLINES

Sand Between your Toes

SHIP

To catch some sunshine on the coast, head to the Dutch seaside.

Only a 30-minute journey from Amsterdam by train, there are plenty of things to do for thrill- and chill-seekers alike.

As one of the biggest fishing harbours in Western Europe, IJmuiden has a strong connection to the sea. Learn more about the construction of the North Sea Canal at SHIP, a museum that boasts a range of fascinating interactive displays. It's highly recommended to head up to the restaurant on the second floor or roof-top of the building for breathtaking views over the Zeesluis IJmuiden – Europe’s largest lock complex where ships as large as apartment buildings pass through every day.

SHIP-INFO.NL

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Dutch dunes

Water sports

Take a dedicated cycle path from the coastline to the Waterleiding Dunes near Zandvoort for a hike through the nature reserve. Perhaps you’ll spot one of the many deer or foxes, or you might stumble across a World War II bunker. To the north of Zandvoort, you’ll find the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, where you can take a stroll or a leisurely bike ride.

Watch out for the Konik ponies and Highland cattle – they roam freely throughout the park.

VISITZANDVOORT.COM

Dutch Grand Prix

© CHRIS SCHOTANUS

Thrill-seekers have the chance to feel like a racing superstar all year round at Circuit Zandvoort, a motorsport race track hidden among the dunes. From 2-4 September, Zandvoort gets set for the Formula 1 Heineken Dutch Grand Prix 2022, which hits the tarmac for a weekend of high-speed manoeuvres and screaming engines. In the run-up to this big event, you can enjoy Zandvoort Beyond, the month-long side-events programme (6 August-4 September).

ZANDVOORTBEYOND.COM, DUTCHGP.COM CIRCUITZANDVOORT.NLV

Northwest of Amsterdam, the beach at IJmuiden is a fantastic spot for sports lovers. You’ll find the locals heading to the sea in droves to spend the entire day splashing around in the water. Test your balance with Stand-Up Paddle Boarding or catch some serious air flyboarding. And If you’re not into water sports, try blokarting, a unique wind-powered go-kart that lets you zoom around the dunes.

Whatever your passion, there’s a place to do it at IJmuiden.

IJMUIDEN.NL

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Fort bij Vijfhuizen is a former military fort, once part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, and is now used as a centre for contemporary art, complete with a restaurant.

KUNSTFORT.NL

Find out more about day trips to Amsterdam Beach on iamsterdam.com/ beach

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Forteiland

Beach hotspots

Forteiland (Fortress Island) is part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This unique, partly underground fortress was built in the 1880s to help defend the surrounding area and restrict shipping traffic heading for Amsterdam. During World War II, Fortress Island was used by the German soldiers as part of the Atlantic Wall, which is when its additional military bunkers were constructed. This iconic post is the Defence Line’s largest building and well worth a visit. Some of its most interesting features include an impressive dining hall, a dungeon and an armoury. Visit the island on ‘public days’ that are held on the first Sunday of every month between March and November.

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During the summer months, beach bars pop up everywhere in the area and are filled to the brim. Try Tijn Akersloot (Zandvoort, tijnakersloot.nl) for the ultimate beach-club atmosphere, Woodstock’69 (Bloemendaal, woodstock69.nl) for vibrant surroundings, parties through the night and colourful cocktails, Hippie Fish (Zandvoort, hippiefish.nl) for Ibiza-vibes, and Timboektoe (Wijk aan Zee, timboektoe.org) if you’re looking for a cosy spot to watch the surf all year round.

Zandvoort: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Zandvoort aan Zee - 30 minutes IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk to bus stop Badweg - 45 minutes Zuid-Kennemerland National Park: Train from Amsterdam Central station to Overveen and a short walk to the visitors centre - 25 minutes

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90 | CANALS, CULTURE & CUISINE

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Haarlem

The Spaarne river meanders through the heart of the city and a boat trip is the perfect way to experience Haarlem from another perspective.

SMIDTJECANALCRUISES.NL

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Amsterdam’s Charming Neighbour A city of remarkable history and culture, Haarlem is home to historical monuments and some of the Netherlands’ best museums, art and shopping.

De Windmill Adriaan

In the heart of Haarlem, De Adriaan windmill, originally built in 1778, is a smocked windmill that sits on the foundations of the tower that once defended the city centre. The view of old Haarlem from the platform above the Spaarne river and the city is not to be missed.

© KOEN SMILDE

© HELENE WIESENHAAN

MOLENADRIAAN.NL

Hofjes

Gouden Straatjes

Haarlem is a city known for its hofjes (enclosed courtyard gardens), and there are beautiful green spaces tucked away behind many an unassuming street – most dating back to medieval times. The gardens are surrounded by charitable almshouses and were used to house poor, unmarried or widowed women. There are 21 main public hofjes in Haarlem, but with the entrances to many being concealed behind modest doorways or down alleyways, these city oases are a treasure when you find them.

Haarlem has been voted as the Netherlands’ best shopping destination on several occasions, and a quick look around the boutique-lined streets will reveal exactly why. With everything from achingly cool concept stores to traditional market stalls, and big brands to independent labels, as well as charming antique and curiosity shops around every corner, it’s no wonder that Haarlemmers call their shopping district the ‘Gouden Straatjes’ (the streets of gold).

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HAARLEMSEHOFJES.NL

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No trip to Haarlem is complete without a visit to former church-turned-brewery Jopenkerk, which brews and serves the best ‘real Haarlem’ beers on site. Head to this charming venue for delicious food and drinks, and naturally for a taste of the famous Jopen beer. Open for lunch and dinner, this is the place to sit back and sip a nice cold drink as you watch the brewing process with a bird’s eye view.

JOPENKERK.NL

Grote Markt

Hosting regular festivals, concerts and markets, the Grote Markt is the hub of daily life in Haarlem and just happens to be one of the prettiest city squares in the country. Go there on a Saturday when the street market rolls out its wares. And don’t forget to visit the Grote Kerk.

VISITHAARLEM.COM

© KEES HAGEMAN

© HANS GULDEMOND

© MARIE CHARLOT TE PEZE

Jopenkerk

© HANS GULDEMOND

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on iamsterdam.com/ haarlem

Frans Hals Museum

Teylers Museum

A trip to the Teylers Museum – the oldest museum in the Netherlands – is like venturing through the back of a cupboard and into a strange new land. Whether delving into art or science, the museum’s extensive collection includes masterful paintings and drawings (many of which are from The Hague School and Dutch Romantics), ancient fossils and minerals, and instruments and books. It also hosts a changing line-up of fascinating exhibitions showcasing awe-inspiring science and art, and the building’s magnificent 200-year-old Oval Room is an attraction in itself. The recently-opened Pieter Teylers Huis in a wing of the museum lets you look inside the 18th-century house of the museum’s founding father Pieter Teyler. Don’t forget this museum is free to visit with a City Card.

TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

The legacy of 17th-century portrait painter Frans Hals can be seen all over the city. Nowhere more so than at the Frans Hals Museum, home to the largest collection of Frans Hals’ portraits in the world. You’ll also find various exhibitions of contemporary artists, including Anna Bella Geiger: Native Brazil/Alien Brazil (until 21 August) – the Brazilian artist’s first solo show in the Netherlands.

FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL

How to get there Direct train service from Amsterdam Central station to Haarlem - 15 minutes 018 Valid until 31-12-2 with out required Check in andon every trip each carrier

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See how we are making travel more sustainable Discover how we can travel our own planet more sustainably at klm.com/flyresponsibly

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Old Holland 94 | DUTCH HERITAGE

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Windmills on the Waterside With its windmills, arts and crafts, and Industrial Revolution heritage, discovering Old Holland feels like taking a step back in time.

Say cheese

The Dutch take their cheese very seriously – and you should too. There are several cheese farms still operating in Old Holland, many of which you can visit to learn the process of cheesemaking (and of course sample the products). De Kaaswaag Edam (Edam Cheese Weighhouse) invites you to explore the cheesemaking traditions of Edam, cheese capital of the Netherlands. In for some serious cheesiness? Head to Alkmaar for the oldest cheese market of them all.

VISITALKMAAR.COM, VVVEDAMVOLENDAM.NL

The cavernous surrounds of this munitions-factory-turned-experimentalart-space in Zaandam provide a unique setting for some conceptual art viewing. Het HEM’s artist residency programme changes every season, inviting a new individual or group to write the next exhibition ‘chapter’. For fine food, dine at Zanini or Bois, or get a sandwich at Bakery Solinger. While a few minute’s walk away is The Museum of Humanity, which displays portraits of people from all over the world.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Het HEM

HETHEM.NL

Zuiderzeemuseum

Industrial walking routes

© JOCHEM FELDBERG

Enkhuizen’s Zuiderzeemuseum tells the stories of the people who once made the shores of the Zuiderzee their home. As you wander among the exhibits you can practically see, hear, taste and smell everyday life as it was before the major Afsluitdijk dam transformed the sea into the IJsselmeer in 1932. Their current exhibition (until 30 October) shows how children grew up in the Zuiderzee region in 1900.

ZUIDERZEEMUSEUM.NL

Curious to learn the stories behind the windmills and warehouses? Wander or cycle through the Zaan region and explore the industrial past as you spot traditional houses, windmills and old factories. The industrial heritage stretches along the banks of the Zaan river (from Koog aan de Zaan to Wormerveer). Along the way you’ll see the windmills of Zaanse Schans.

ZAANS.NL IAMSTERDAM.COM/CYCLESEEING

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Travel back in time and marvel at animated clocks depicting themes that are typical of the historical Zaan region, such as spinning windmills or whaling scenes, at the Museum Zaanse Tijd.

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ old-holland

MNUURWERK.NL

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See the new and the old come together in Zaandam, a historically important city that was once known for its milling operations.

Nowadays Zaandam is a mix of the metropolitan and the rural, with a car-free shopping centre that boasts dozens of shops.

While you’re there, you can take a peek at (or even stay in) the iconic Inntel Hotel, built to look like the traditional green Dutch fishermen’s houses stacked on top of each other.

INNTELHOTELS.NL ZAANS.NL

© MIKE BINK

© KOEN SMILDE

Zaandam

Chocolate experience & Zaans Museum

Take a fascinating journey from the very first windmills and green wooden houses to modern factories, and admire traditional Dutch paintings, costumes and artefacts – all at the Zaans Museum in Zaanse Schans. At the heart of the museum is the Verkade Experience, a chocolate and biscuit factory. A treat for young and old alike, watch the original machines churning away and imagine yourself in the early 20th century. Want to get involved? Design your own wrapper for a customised Verkade chocolate bar or join in the games and become a chocolate-making expert.

ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

Picture perfect places Waterland’s flat polder landscape – with its expansive fields and old-style stolpboerderijen – throws up moments that feel lost in time. The UNESCO World Heritage site De Beemster boasts scenic waterways, dikes, restored mills and traditional farmhouses, as well as De Rijp, dubbed ‘Holland’s most beautiful village’. Head for Volendam for a fantastic trip back into Old Holland.

As it’s the Netherlands’ most famous fishing village, be sure to fill up on some fresh fish, whether it’s kibbeling – little pieces of fried fish – or herring, which is best eaten raw with onions. Take the Volendam Marken Express ferry to nearby Marken, which was once an island but is now connected to the mainland by a dike.

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How to get there Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Zaandam (two stops further is Zaanse Schans train station) - 15 minutes Fishing villages: Take a bus from Amsterdam Noord metro station to Monnickendam (15 minutes), Marken (30 minutes) and Volendam (30 minutes)

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© CORRY ZWART FLOWERS OF GOLD

Flowers

The Flower Art Museum hosts exhibitions by renowned artists and with challenging themes, all revolving around the representation of flowers and plants in contemporary art.

FLOWERARTMUSEUM.NL

TULIP WONDERLAND

Even though flower season with its fields of tulips ends in May, you can experience flowers at their finest year round, right here in the colourful flower region.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Holland in Bloom

Royal FloraHolland

The world’s biggest flower auction (a whopping 400 football fields’ worth) is Royal FloraHolland. The best action is between 7 and 9 in the morning so you’ll have to get up early, but flowers stretch as far as the eye can see, the smell is divine, and with an (optional) guide, you can witness the auction first-hand. Open Monday to Friday, and closed on public holidays.

ROYALFLORAHOLLAND.COM

FloriWorld

For the ultimate flower experience, the interactive audiovisual museum Floriworld is a must. Discover how plants and flowers impact daily life, take a selfie among a backdrop of blossoming blooms and marvel at the amazing artistic creations handcrafted by expert florists. And, if you want to take a memento home with you, make sure to bid on a bouquet in the auction hall at the end of the tour.

FLORIWORLD.COM

Keukenhof Castle

It may be perpetually outshone by its showy neighbour, but this castle (located opposite the world-famous Keukenhof spring gardens), boasts an impressive history. Wandering around the castle and grounds brings new life to the 400-yearold history. Learn about the previous inhabitants inside, then head outdoors to view the unique sculpture collection, or to look for the ‘hidden’ gardens tucked away on the wooded estate.

KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

Museum De Zwarte Tulp

Located in the centre of Lisse, Museum De Zwarte Tulp delves into the evolution of bulb culture. In addition to the permanent exhibition, the museum hosts shows throughout the year including Precision work: Botanical Art - A Thriving Science (until 3 July) which examines the practice of botanical drawing as an art in itself.

MUSEUMDEZWARTETULP.NL

How to get there Keukenhof: Take bus 852 from Amsterdam RAI to bus stop Keukenhof - 35 minutes Royal FloraHolland: Take bus 357 from Amsterdam Elandsgracht bus station to bus stop FloraHolland - 55 minutes Cruquius: Train from Amsterdam Centraal to Haarlem. Transfer to bus 340, bus stop Cruquius Ringvaartbrug 45 minutes

Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam.com/ o e st

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Need to Know Where to get your information, how to get around and other useful information to make sure your trip to Amsterdam runs smoothly.

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Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

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M ERDA AMSTREGION & L E TRAV T TICKE

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam Area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

I amsterdam

With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amster-dam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Amsterdam Central station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Plus, this is your If you are a victim of crime, report it to the go-to stop for police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or information on how to to report a crime in progress, call 112. For get around. non-emergency situations requiring police

In Case of Emergency

assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900 8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

I AMSTERDAM STORE, CENTRAL STATION, IJ-SIDE. CHECK IAMSTERDAM.COM FOR UP-TO-DATE OPENING HOURS, IAMSTERDAM.COM/EN/

Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands.

5 June: Pentecost Sunday is an official public holiday • 6 June: Pentecost Monday is an official public holiday • 5 December: Sinterklaas is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close • 25 December: Christmas Day is an official public holiday • 26 December: Christmas (Boxing) Day is an official public holiday

WEBSHOP

GETTING AROUND: Amsterdam is well-equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets can be bought on trams and buses with a debit or credit card.

To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/ en or Google Maps for up-to-the-minute information.

Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental shops, but be warned that using your mobile phone while cycling is illegal.

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Public Holidays

I amsterdam City Card The I amsterdam City Card offers you a unique way to explore Amsterdam. The City Card gives access to all major highlights and more than 70 museums, city-wide public transport, a canal cruise and bicycle rental. Buy it online at iamsterdam.com/city-card or at the I amsterdam Store at Central station.

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Before You Leave

98 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘The independent cinema scene in Amsterdam is fantastic, especially at Studio/K. Alongside screening great films, they have a great café and restaurant downstairs with live music.’

Tanja Dejanova (36), project coordinator from Helsinki, Finland

‘For me Flevopark is the best place in Amsterdam to go for a run. It’s quiet and beautiful and there are no bikes or traffic so you can simply enjoy being in nature.’

Evita Rigert (34), costume designer from Zurich, Switzerland ‘You can’t miss visiting Feed Amsterdam, a café-bar that plays an eclectic mix of music through their amazing sound system. They even host their own radio show to give local DJs a chance to be heard, as well as exhibiting artwork from local artists on the walls.’

Phoebe Pryor (29), artist from Woodbridge, UK

‘Take the free NDSM ferry from Amsterdam Central station to the other side of the IJ and go to Pllek. Sit outside on the beach-terrace and enjoy the river and sun. They even sometimes have outdoor cinema screenings.’

Tanine Dunais (36), graphic designer from Tehran, Iran

‘I discovered a bike ride that has it all. If you follow the Amstel river out of Amsterdam towards Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, you will pass meadows, streams and ditches where it’s perfect to stop for a picnic, spot birds and climb trees with your kids.’

Jon Stam (37), interaction designer from Toronto, Canada

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Barbara van den Berg, Celisze.Photography, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lesia Joukova, Dave Pelham, Vita van de Sandt, Verity Seward, Steven Strijbosch, Monique Wijbrands advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or +31 20 702 61 80 want to become a distributor? partner@iamsterdam.com for individual subscriptions visit aboland.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam&partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717

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Eat & drink City Guide | summer/autumn 2022

The Amsterdam hip list Top terraces Plant-based eateries

Around town Local’s top tips Famous fisherman’s villages The best quirky shops

What’s on Unmissable shows Small & special museums Summer festivals

City Guide

ENGLISH SPOKEN! A UNIQUE, IMMERSIVE THEATRE EXPERIENCE Immersive theatre has already set Shanghai, London and New York alight. Now the Netherlands is ready to carry the torch – in a way rarely experienced before. Delicious food and live music is included in your ticket.

More info and tickets: hotelwonderland.nl

Have a nice stay

Hotel Wonderland is live, immersive theatre in 4.000m2 of stunningly realised space at the Hembrugterrein (directly across the River IJ).

You get to choose which characters you follow and how far you step into their world.

Vol 6 #1 €4.95

Amsterdam’s Fashion DNA THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE S U M M E R /A U T U M N 2 0 2 2

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06-05-2022 17:37

TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

€19.50

Fo und e rs

O ff icia l p a rtne r

€36.50

Pre m ium p a r t n er s

adv ARTT I amsterdam Magazine voorjaar 2019.indd 2

001-002 _ 099-100 IAM #12 2022 COVER SF MB.indd 2

€28.00

30-01-19 10:49

06-05-2022 17:32