Travel the East

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel

Travel the East

Because of its remote location, this area of Iceland has always been the territory of the more devoted explorer, it’s about as far away from Reykjavík as you can possibly get, but if you have time to spare and are particularly passionate about ancient glacier-cut landscapes, then a visit to this appealing part of the county will reward you with treats of extreme proportions. The region is epitomized by a host of natural wonders, including the usual blend of waterfalls, mountains, deserts, heaths and fjords; but because their features are often characterized by greater dimensions; you’ll find that the mountains here are surely steeper and the fjords are definitely deeper; and as a result of extensive reforestation efforts, the East is certainly a lot greener in places! Apart from the assorted scenery and colorful contrasts, the East of Iceland has an abundance of natural harbors, charming little fishing villages and a variety of birdlife, boasting species such as ptarmigan and its highly prized predator the gyrfalcon. It’s also the location of Hallormsstaður - Iceland’s largest forest.

GEOLOGICAL INSIGHT Geologically speaking, the East is the oldest and most stable region of Iceland, because of its remote distance from the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, it has significantly less volcanic and geothermal activity. The entire region was formed by ancient volcanoes, which were later glaciated. As the glaciers moved down they cut out the impressive steep valleys of the magnificent Eastfjords.

East of Höfn

Just before you reach the Almannaskarð tunnel a nice little detour (off Rte. 1) leads to the headland of Stokksnes, where you’ll be greeted with stunning views of the sea-licked mountains (Vestrahorn and Eystrahorn) and possibly some seals bobbing about in and out of the water. There’s also an abundance of birdlife. If the weather’s good another option is to stop at the view point on the east side of the tunnel, where you can enjoy the beautiful scenery towards the West and admire the glacial tongues descending from the main icecap.

Lón and the Lónsöræfi Reserve

Around 40km (25 miles) east of Höfn the next bay encountered on Rte. 1 is dominated by a large lagoon - Lónsvík (Lagoon Bay), where Greylag Geese and Whooper Swans touching down on the calm waters are watched over by wandering horses. This still expanse of water is fed by the glacial rivers of Lónsöræfi or Lagoon Wilderness - a mountainous interior region, bordering Vatnajökull and composed of striking landscapes with deep gorges, fractured rhyolite hills and serrated summits of varying elevation - it’s easily one of Iceland’s best and most remote hiking districts. Access to the rugged terrain of Lónsöræfi is via Rte. 980, which leads through a deep glacial river; if you’re planning an independent hiking trip, it’s recommended that you register your tour and leave detailed travel plans withsafetravel.is.

Between Lónsvík and its neighbouring Álftafjörður (Swan Fjord) look out for some fascinating scenery and landmarks such as Mt. Eystrahorn at Hvalsnes and the hazardous looking scree slopes of Hvalnesskríður and Þvottárskríður, lining the edges of the coastal mountains.

Djúpivogur

Djúpivogur (Deep Cove) is a picturesque fishing village, located on the tip of an east coast peninsula, and visited regularly by wandering reindeer and an occasional bob of curious seals. Standing guard over the town is one of Iceland’s most beautiful mountains, the 1069m (3,507ft.) Búlandstindur, whose perfect pyramidal image has been proudly adopted as the town’s symbol. The history of the village is closely linked with Iceland’s trade and fishing industry, which in Djúpivogur dates

back to 1589. Although fishing is still a core activity and the main source of employment in the village, an increase of tourism in recent years has given it a new cultural focus, and an alternative source of income. With a couple of conveniently located bird-hides, tired ornithologists will be very pleased that they don’t have to hike into the back of beyond to delight in the birdlife of Djúpivogur - to find out more about them, visit Langabúð - the big red 18th century building by the habour. Apart from housing the local information centre, it’s also a café and a folk museum, dedicated to the memory and works of Ríkarður Jónsson - a talented local sculptor.

The Eastfjords

The convoluted coastline of the Eastfjords is composed of extreme landscapes where the road weaves magnificently in and out of long, narrow fjords divided by sheer mountains. The journey itself can be rather exhilarating and sometimes scary, especially when the road cuts dramatically through steep slopes, that descend from jagged peaks and disappear into the depths of deep fjords. Note that an alternative route (Rte. 939) leads inland and north to Egilsstaðir at the bottom Berufjörður. Rte. 1 continues back up the other side of the fjord along the coast. Berufjörður is the first of the Eastfjords encountered on the journey from Djúpivogur and marked by the spiky crown of Smátindur (Small Summits) and its deep cut valley, which is lined with small farms in the lowlands. The fjord is especially known for its zeolitecrystals. Breiðdalsvík is a cosy little coastal town perched at the foot of some rather lofty mountains in Breiðdalur (Broad Valley), which happens to be the longest and broadest valley in the Eastfjords. Apart from hosting ‘Austfjarðatröllið’ (The Eastfjords Troll) which is an annual strongman competition, the fjord is also known for its popular salmon fishing in the Breiðdalsá river.

At Breiðdalsvík, Rte. 1 continues inland to Egilsstaðir and the coastal road is taken over by Rte. 96. Stöðvarfjörður is another beautiful fjord with spectacular surroundings where you can visit the extraordinary rock exhibition of Petra Sveinsdóttir, whose fascination with beautiful stones led to a lifetime’s collection of countless rocks, minerals and semi-precious stones - 90% of which were found in Stöðvarfjörður and the surrounding area. Fjarðarbraut 21 –750 Stöðvarsfjörður - steinapetra.is Fáskrúðsfjörður. Although the road signs in this little fishing town (also known as Búðir) suddenly double up in the French language, don’t be alarmed, you’re still definitely in Iceland. The French connection dates back to the 17th century when the area was settled by French fishermen, who were lured to the eastern waters of Iceland by its wealthy supply of codfish. During the boom years between 1880 and 1940, over 5,000 fishermen from

the continent sailed to the area each year; they frequented the village, building a hospital, a consulate and the Krossar chapel. In case your eyes keep glancing nervously at the fuel gauge and you just can’t afford any more fjords, then take the inland shortcut on Rte. 96, which takes you directly to Reyðarfjörður, connecting with Rte. 92 to Egilsstaðir.

STRANGE BUT TRUE in the 17th century an Icelandic farmer compiled the world’s first dictionary of the Basque language in order to assist communication between the locals and some of the migrants.

Skrúður is a grassy island standing proud at the mouth of the Fáskrúðsfjörður fjord, and home of the Skrúðhellir caves - the biggest in the East of Iceland. The caves are now home to a thriving bird population and a mythical giant named Skrúðsbondi – brother of the giant in Papey; but in days gone by these same caves provided shelter for those brave fishermen in-between their dangerous trips out to sea. Reyðarfjörður is the largest of the Eastfjords and served as an Allied base during World War II. If you’re interested in this period of history and Iceland’s role in the war, there’s a small museum of war memorabilia in the village at the base of the fjord called the Icelandic Wartime Museum. Spítalakampi – Heiðarvegi 37.

The town is closely associated with Alcoa - the world’s biggest aluminium corporation and produces 350.000 tons of aluminium annually in its smelter, which opened in 2007 providing much needed employment. By-passers of the remaining Eastfjords can say ‘bye’ to the coastal beauty and ‘hello’ to the inland highlights of the East by taking Rte. 92 from Reyðarfjörður towards Egilsstaðir and Lagarfljót.

Middle Eastfjords

For those who don’t want to miss out on more stunning coastal scenery and would be quite happy to weave in and out of another fjord or two, then continue on the coast road to the pretty fishing towns of Eskifjörður and Neskaupsstaður - a couple of remote scenic treasures, both of which were established by settlers fishing for herring, or ‘the ocean’s silver’. The town of Eskifjörður stands on the fjord’s northern shore and is built on a small sand-spit, overlooked by the towering 985m (323ft.) Hólmatindur peak. The town has a Maritime Museum at Gamla Búð on Standgata 39b, open daily in the summer between 13:00 – 17:00. It also has a ski resort in Oddsskarð known as ‘The Eastern Alps’.

In the hills behind Eskifjörður there’s an old mine – though it’s now shut down, it used to be the world’s biggest producer of the Iceland-spar mineral.

Neskaupsstaður. From Eskifjörður Rte. 92 leaves the coast and cuts across the Oddskarð mountain pass, which reaches heights of 705m (2,313ft.) above sea level and is lined on either side by lush valleys with interesting plant species and wildlife. The road then descends sharply into Norðfjörður where the pretty village of Neskaupstaðir is located. Though certainly a beautiful town with magnificent scenery, it’s often overlooked by tourists, mainly because of its remote location. In fact until the road linking the town to the rest of the country was constructed in 1947, residents had to travel to and from the town by boat. Despite its isolation, it’s one of the biggest communities in East Iceland and boasts a bustling fishing industry, with boats and ships coming and going all year round. In a narrow fjord just above Neskaupstaðir lies breathtaking Mjóifjörður which is home to just one tiny village, Brekkukorp. Today, only about 14 people live in Brekkuþorp year-round, and they are clearly people who relish some natureinduced solitude: the road into Mjóifjörður is breathtaking, but it’s open for only about four months of the year (depending on the weather) and 4x4 recommended. The rest of the year, Mjóifjörður is only accessible by scheduled boat from Norðfjörður. The rugged road off Route 1 descends into the fjord and along the northern coast, giving you a road-trip through Mjóifjörður highlights, a collection of natural and historic sites that together tell quite a story. One of the bestknown spots is the beautiful multitiered waterfall Klifbrekkufossar, which cascades down the mountainside. The ravine Prestagil (the Priest’s Ravine) takes its name from a local folktale that tells of a huge troll woman who tried to seduce a priest into the ravine. The small inlet of Smjörvogur was once used as a prison as there was no way in or out of it without assistance. At Asknes you’ll see the remains of an old whaling station, the largest in the world at the time it was built by the Norwegians around 1900, with over 200 hundred workers. Keep driving as far east as you can go and you’ll reach Dalatangi lighthouses (an old one from 1895, and a ‘new’ from 1908), with magnificent panoramas in all directions.

Egilsstaðir

Although often referred to as the capital of the East, Egilsstaðir is actually one of Iceland’s youngest towns. It was established in 1947 with the main purpose of operating a service, trade and educational center for the many nearby seaside villages located in the Eastfjords. Today the town has a number of service businesses, including branches of the country’s biggest companies, plus a busy airport - though it mainly serves domestic traffic, it fills the requirements to land international flights as well. Unlike many other towns and villages in Iceland, Egilsstaðir and its neighboring areas are characterized by a beautiful green belt of trees and woods. With reforestation programs and agriculture high on the list of priorities, the area is packed with enjoyable forest walks and trails into nearby mountain ranges. Be sure to visit the nearby village of Vallanes’s organic farm and cafe, Móðir Jörð, which is known for its delicious brunch and gift shop. There is also a colorful church close to the farm. In case you hadn’t already seen enough of Iceland’s feathered friends, there are also plenty more opportunities to catch up on a bit of bird-watching in Egilsstaðir.

FABULOUS FAUNA the Northeastern highlands are home to around 3,000 wild reindeer - descendants of the herds brought to Iceland from Norway in the late 18th century.

Fljótsdalur Valley

The charms of the Fljótsdalur valley are numerous, with rich green forests bordering a legendary lake and other places of beauty and splendour; the valley is topped in the southwest by the highlands of Fljótsdalsheiði, where reindeer wander freely, and crowned further in the distance, by the snowtopped spectacular 1,833m (6,013ft.) peak of Snæfell. Following the 84km (52 miles) circular course around the lake, heading out on Rte. 931, will load you with a good day’s worth of lasting impressions. Lake Lögurinn is a deep ribbon lake fed by the glacial waters of the Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river. The lake, which is also referred to as ‘Lagarfljót’, expands from the southwest end of the valley all the way to the bridge between Egilsstaðir and Fellabær, where it continues its flow northeast in river form. According to local legends, similar to those of Loch Ness in Scotland, the lake is the territory of a giant serpent called Lagarfljótsormurinn. First mentioned in some 1345 annals, it was considered a bad omen if the monster was seen peeking out of the water. The lake has a set of impressive dimensions and is about 140km (87 miles) long, 112m (367ft.) deep and has a surface area of 53km2 (33m2). At its widest the lake measures 2.5km (1.5 miles).

HOW THE LAKE GOT ITS SNAKE according to folklore a young girl was given a golden ring by her mother, in order to derive as much benefit from the ring as possible she was instructed by her mother to place the ring under a heather-serpent. After several days she found the serpent had grown so big, the linen chest she kept it in was bursting apart. In fear she hurled the chest, serpent and all into the lake where it continued to grow!

If you’re not the superstitious type and fancy your chances of getting a historic snap of the lake monster, then head to the lovely forest beach of Atlavík, where you can hire a boat to explore the lake and frame your snapshots with some beautiful scenery. The eastern banks of the lake have an abundance of green appeal with hiking trails riddled throughout Hallormstaðarskógur, which is the largest forest in Iceland – an amusing fact for tourists of woodier regions. There’s an interesting stop at Hallormsstaður, a government forestry station in the beautiful Hallormsstaðaskógur, where 80 species of trees from various parts of the world grow. The forest is only 26km (16 miles) from Egilsstaðir, but if you have the time to drive around the lake we recommend a stop at Skriðuklaustur, around 20km (12,5 miles) away from Hallormsstaður on the other side of the lake. Skriðuklaustur is the terrific turf-topped family home of renowned Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson. The two-storey mansion was designed by German architect Fritz Höger and built in 1939; it’s one of the region’s the most recognized buildings and tourist

attractions. The building is now an educational museum, dedicated to the life and work of the author and also a great lunch stop. Open daily in the summer, between 10:00am - 18:00 (6pm).

Skriðuklaustur – 701 Egilsstaðir - skriduklaustur.is

If you’re one of the serious hikers tempted by the trails around Snæfell - Iceland’s highest mountain, not underneath a glacier - you might want to pop into Snæfellsstofa - Vatnajökull National Park’s regional visitors centre, also located in the grounds of Skriðuklaustur and open daily in the summer between 09:00 – 18:00. Note - on weekends the center opens an hour later. vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is Hengifoss. At 118m / 387ft this picturesque waterfall is Iceland’s fourth highest and rather impressive, but it’s the basaltic pillars with bands of crimson clay sandwiched in between that hold your attention. If the flow isn’t too powerful, it’s possible to walk, or rather climb behind the waterfall and explore a small cave. After an adventurous day, it’s great to relax in the Vök Baths, unique floating geothermal pools in a lake outside of town. Vök’s herbal tea bar features delicious blends of local herbs.” Add website: vokbaths.is

Wilderness Center

The locally-owned and familyoperated Wilderness Center was developed by a film-maker and a historian who used their skills to bring Iceland’s past to life. When you cross the old wooden bridge at the award-winning Wilderness Center, you’ll step into an adventure of the past. Every detail at the premises is designed to make you feel a part in this adventure. The buildings, interior decorations, food, activities and hosts all play a vital role in this experience. The accommodation is in delightfully renovated and preserved old buildings – which may make visitors feel they are “sleeping in a museum.” The hosts prepare all the meals in the historic kitchen in front of the guests with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. The cuisine is based on authentic historical recipes. You can book a variety of locally-guided (optional) activities that bring you even closer to Iceland’s unique nature and history. All activities include a touch of storytelling, in the tradition of the Icelandic Sagas! wilderness.is You can even relax in a charming, rustic Wilderness Spa with hot tubs and

sauna and great wilderness views.

Seyðisfjörður

27km (17 miles) east of Egilsstaðir along Rte. 93 the scenic town of Seyðisfjörður bustles in a deep, 18km

(11 miles) long fjord of the same name. The town, which has plenty of traffic, started trading in 1834, becoming one of the largest towns in Iceland in the latter part of the 19th century. The town is particularly pretty owing to its well preserved collection of colorful Norwegian-style wooden houses. The ferry “Norræna” from Europe arrives in Seyðisfjörður on a weekly basis.

Borgarfjörður Eystri

If you’re a fan of Jóhannes Kjarval - Iceland’s famous landscape artist, then you’ll be heading north of Egilsstaðir on Rte. 94, to visit his home land and inspiration in Borgarfjörður Eystri, the northernmost of the Eastfjords. On the way, lookout for the magnificent mountain range of Dyrfjöll which features a remarkable gap in the middle of the mountain. There are many trails to explore around the deserted inlets of Borgafjörður Eystri, such as the mystical mountain trails through Stórurð, with its assortment of blazing colors and breathtaking views, or the beautiful Brúnavík trail with its lovely rhyolite-sand beach; but if you’re looking for something really exceptional for your photo album, visit Hvítserkur – a picturesque mountain which curiously looks like a work of art, where dark veins streak and crisscross in fancy patterns on a massive canvas of brightly colored ignimbrite.

QUEEN OF THE ELVES according to Iceland’s enchanting folklore, Borgarfjörður Eystri is the noble kingdom of Elves with the Elf Queen herself residing on a royal rocky hill named Álfaborg (Elf Rock).