Travel the Westfjords

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Travel the Westfjords

Iceland’s Westfjords are dominated by dramatic fjords cutting paths into steep mountains and towering, angular cliffs. The Westfjords are a haven for a rich variety of birdlife, and were once renowned for witchcraft, sorcerers and wizards. Geologically speaking, the Westfjords contain some of the oldest parts of Iceland, with rock formations up to 14 millions years old. Excluding the highlands, the Westfjords have the most scattered population in Iceland. Over the centuries, the people of the Westfjords have battled the elements to harvest the ocean riches. There are many tiny fishing villages huddled against sheer mountains, but there are also large areas of the fjords left uninhabited. The Westfjords offer visitors the opportunity to see the seabirds on their rugged cliff-face nests, arctic foxes in their grassy meadow lairs, and seals in their deep-blue water playgrounds. At the westernmost point of the Westfjords is Látrabjarg, one of Europe’s largest bird cliffs. Please note! General road conditions in the Westfjords are not as good as in other parts of the country, so please drive safely, especially on gravel roads. Some sections of road are very high up with no guard rail.

THE LAW PERTAINING TO BLUEBERRIES wild Icelandic blueberries are by no means unique to the Westfjords, but it’s here that they seem most accessible. Traveller’s who stop at the side of the road to check their map have been known to look down and find an unexpected snack – best picked in late summer. And if anyone questions why you’re crawling through the moss with fingers stained blue, you can say with confidence that you’re sticking to the law – Icelandic law stipulates that you may pick enough blueberries on public land for private consumption. Bon appetit!

The Strandir Coast

The Strandir coast, along the Westfjords’ eastern edge, is renowned for its ‘rugged beauty’, and seems as likely place as any for such a cliché to originate! Beaches strewn with driftwood, seals lazing about offshore, birds aplenty, and a road that, if you follow it all the way north, simply ends at the edge of a vast, desolate wilderness, home to the arctic fox

and the wildest wild blueberries in the country. Some of this area is only accessible during summer and early autumn; even transport by sea can be impossible, with the fjords this far north choked with pack-ice sometimes well into spring. Hornstrandir is the northernmost peninsula of the Westfjords and a beautiful nature reserve which offers a pure wilderness. It was once populated, but is now left to nature’s firm grip. Various factors were involved in the thinning of the population, but in the early 20th century, when just a handful of farming families remained – about 40 people – they held a meeting and jointly decided to move away. This arctic fox territory is now characterised in summer by idyllic lush meadows covered with flowers, and majestic cliffs teeming with seabirds. Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is a real paradise for all nature lovers. Once abandoned by a farming community, the land was freed from the destructive grazing of sheep, and plants and wildlife alike began to thrive on a scale unknown elsewhere in the country. In some areas, such as Aðalvík Bay, you can wade knee-deep in meadows of wild flowers fertilised by the guano of countless seabirds, and in the tranquillity of the fjords at sundown, you can listen to the music of nature: the sound of the water, the seabirds and, if you’re very lucky, the haunting bark of the arctic fox. This is an increasingly popular hiking area, but still offers a chance to be alone with nature. Hiking maps of Hornstrandir are usually available at the tourist information centers in Hólmavik and Ísafjörður. Hólmavík Info Center holmavik.is/info Ísafjörður Info Center westfjords.is

Hólmavík

Hólmavík (Rte. 61) is the main town along the magical Strandir coast. It’s a small village in Steingrímsfjörður Fjord and a place of spectacular nature, peace and quiet. The village has all major services, including shops, bank, health clinic, several accommodation options and a Tourist Information centre. Activities available are, among others, various walking and hiking trails a new swimming pool, a golf course and more. Hólmavík is often referred to as the home of witchcraft and sorcery in Iceland, and so it’s no surprise that this is where you find the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft. The museum presents visitors with an account of the history of sorcery and witchcraft in the Strandir area from the 17th century and the world of witchhunting and magic in Iceland more generally.

Höfðagata 8 – galdrasyning.is

The high pass of Steingrímsfjarðarheiði Heath (Rte. 61) takes you from Strandir into the spectacular region of Ísafjarðardjúp.

Ísafjörður Town

Ísafjörður Fjord is the first fjord you come to after crossing the Steingrímsfjarðarheiði Heath, but note that this is not where the town of Ísafjörður is! You will see a lot of beautiful coastline and weave your way through several more fjords before reaching Ísafjörður town. Ísafjarðardjúp (the ‘Ice-Fjord-Deep’) is the largest fjord in the Westfjords. Eight long and narrow inlets cut its southern coast, while its north-eastern coast has only one prominent inlet. On its northern coast, by its mouth, are the magical Jökulfirðir or ‘glacial fjords’, named because of the Drangjökull Glacier overlooking them. The beautiful town of Ísafjörður, the regional capital of the Westfjords and its major center of culture, commerce and services, is situated where the mouth of Skutulsfjörður Fjord meets Ísafjarðardjúp. Ísafjörður boasts a lovely old town center with some of the finest and most beautifully restored timber buildings in the country. Some of these historic buildings are now part of Neðstikaupstaður, the Westfjords Heritage Museum. Ísafjörður is one of the oldest settlements in Iceland and the museum plays a big part in that story-telling.

Neðstikaupstaður – nedsti.is

Fishing has always been the main industry in Ísafjörður, which has one of the largest fisheries in Iceland. The town owes its origins to the fishing industry and so it is only natural that the museum focuses mainly on maritime history. Four 18th century houses have

been renovated in Ísafjörður and the museum is located in one of those houses. In the museum and the area around it you can find everything concerning fish, fishing, the history of the industry, including old production equipment – everything from a simple fish hook to a whole ship. There’s also a substantial accordion collection on display.

HISTORY MADE TASTY the Tjöruhúsið seafood restaurant (tel: 4564419) housed in the 1781 fish warehouse next to the Westfjords Heritage Museum (above) is both a culinary and a cultural experience. In good weather, visitors to the museum can see salt cod spread on the ground to dry – a ‘sun-drying’ method that was especially popular around the turn of the 20th century during the boom time for Ísafjörður’s salt cod industry. What better way to complete the experience than by tasting some expertly prepared salt cod at the museum restaurant?! The restaurant overcomes potential language barriers by providing an illustrated menu – simply point to the fish species of choice and a very generous portion of it will soon materialise in front of you, sizzling in a pan alongside delectable accompaniments... In a word: Yum!

Ísafjörður has all the services needed for travelers and the town’s hotels, guesthouses, hostels and camping grounds often serve as a home base for tourists exploring the multiform and diverse Westfjords. Ísafjörður has a vibrant cultural life and the town boasts several restaurants and café besides Tjöruhúsið (see box). There are many attractions and activities in and around Ísafjörður. The spectacular landscape is perfect for short and/ or longer hiking trips. The landscape is dominated by narrow fjords and steep mountains. Many travelers choose to spend days simply driving through the fjords and beholding the mountains, many of which descend directly and dramatically into the sea. Boattrips around the fjords, which offer a unique view of the surroundings and often include visits to the nearby islands, are also a popular activity. Ísafjörður Info Center – westfjords.is Vigur is an island in Ísafjarðardjúp, just east of Ísafjörður. It’s a place where time seems to stand still. Vigur has earned a great reputation and has become a must-see for visitors to the area, especially during the nesting season. The island is home to thousands of birds – eider ducks, arctic terns, puffins and more. A leisurely walk around the island gives you an opportunity to see an abundance of birds in their natural environment.

If you are interested in a boat tour to Vigur Island, you can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

Ísafjörður is a popular skiing resort in wintertime; while in summer tourists visit the town for its own charm and beautiful surroundings, as well as for the popular trips to Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, the fjords of Jökulfirðir and the island of Vigur.

Bolungarvík

Bolungarvík (Rte. 61) is the northernmost village in the Westfjords, on the southern lip of Ísafjarðardjúp’s mouth. The village is a traditional fishing port, and was one of the earliest fishing ports in Iceland’s history, dating back to the settlement period. Bolungarvík is surrounded by large coastal mountains, making the view from the village truly spectacular. The village is a regular stop for bird-watchers, as the mountain cliffs and the village isolation create the perfect conditions for observing the rich bird life. The town also boasts several restaurants, café, excellent outdoor thermal pools, and an 18-hole golf course. There are several museums at Bolungarvík, including the Natural History Museum which, when it opened in 1998, was the first museum of its kind in the Westfjords. The museum gives a comprehensive overview of the bird and mammal life in the Westfjords area. Its taxidermic collection includes birds, a seal, fox, mink and a magnificent polar bear. There’s also a significant stone and mineral collection, and a display about the area’s geology in relation to the building of the Bolungarvíkur tunnel, which opened in 2010. Note: The museum is closed for renovations. It will reopen after summer 2021. Natural History Museum – Vitastígur 3 - nabo.is

The harbor in Bolungarvík is often bustling with life; boats arriving and people busy landing fish, while seagulls and other birds are flying around.

The tiny outdoor maritime museum at Ósvör, by the shore off Rte. 61 at the eastern edge of Bolungarvík, tells the story of the first fishermen in Iceland. There’s a restored fishermen’s hut and fish-drying shed at Ósvör, and it’s one of the best places to look out to sea and imagine yourself in the shoes of an Icelandic fisherman from centuries past – you may be struck by a sense of the simplicity of life back then, coupled with the uncertainty and danger of living at the mercy of Poseidon and the elements.

Flateyri

Flateyri, Rte. 64, has been a trading post in the Westfjords since 1792, although its importance has decreased over the years. The village was first and foremost a base for whaling and shark fishing. The vast majority of the population still work in the fishing industry. Flateyri offers travelers the opportunity to experience the quiet fishing village life and environment, and learn the history of fishing activities in the town’s museums. The new Stockfish Museum is housed in a 19th century warehouse that was relocated to the waterfront in 2011. Flateyri is the perfect base for hiking trips to the mountains and fjords surrounding the village.

Þingeyri

Þingeyri village, Rte. 60, is an old trading post and the name ‘Þing’ indicates it was once an important assembly site too. Just east of Þingeyri is Dýrafjarðarbotn; a beautiful area with a majestic mountain range and rich flora. Fisheries are the main source of revenue for Þingeyri, but there is also some other commerce and farming. The picturesque area around Þingeyri is characterised by high mountains and many people consider Dýrafjörður the most beautiful fjord in the whole of the Westfjords – it is narrow and long, accentuating the majesty of the surrounding mountains. The highland area between the fjords of Dýrafjörður and Arnarfjörður, to the south, is often referred to as the Alps of the Westfjords. Kaldbakur, the highest mountain in the Westfjords, is close to Þingeyri and a hike to the top is relatively easy – even for inexperienced hikers. Tourist information is available at Simbahöllin, by the harbor. Fjarðargötu 5.

Hrafnseyri

Arnarfjörður is yet another fjord abounding with natural wonders that are a lot of fun to explore. Hrafnseyri, Rte. 60, is a church farm in Arnarfjörður and the birthplace of independence movement leader Jón Sigurðsson, with a museum dedicated to and celebrating this great statesman. Jón Sigurðsson is a national hero in Iceland, often referred to as ‘president’. He was born at Hrafnseyri and the anniversary of his birth – June 17th in 1811 – is Iceland’s National Day and the day the Republic of Iceland was founded in 1944. The museum at his birthplace has become a popular attraction for visitors. The Museum replicates Sigurðsson’s childhood home, and the old Hrafnseyri church is still standing there. hrafnseyri.is

Dynjandi Waterfall

The most famous of the Westfjords’ natural wonders is probably the waterfall Dynjandi; a 100m / 328ft cascade of unusual beauty. Dynjandi waterfall is just inland from Arnarfjörður fjord off the main road, Rte. 60. It is the biggest waterfall of the Westfjords and one of the most impressive ones in whole of Iceland. True to its name, which means ‘thunderous’, Dynjandi combines thunderous power with natural elegance.

Dynjandi actually consists of seven waterfalls; each with its own name. The waterfalls become progressively broad and are often compared to a tiered wedding cake. Note that you can walk behind the third waterfall up, called Göngufoss.

Selárdalur

Selárdalur Valley, Rte. 619, is the best known of the Ketildalir valleys on the southern shore of Arnarfjörður Fjord, because of the church and former parsonage there, which are also referred to as Selárdalur. The farmer who lived here until his death in 1969, Samúel Jónsson, was also a selftaught artist who created a number of sculptures and replicas of buildings, especially during the last decade of his life. Among other things is a copy of the Alhambra’s Court of the Lions. Selárdalur is a popular destination for people wishing to see what remains of these works.

SELÁRDALUR MOVIE TRIVIA one of Iceland’s biggest music success stories is the band Sigur Rós. Whether you’re a fan, or have never heard of them, we recommend their film Heima, which showcases Iceland as much as it does their music. If you see the film, keep an eye out for Selárdalur and a glimpse of some of Samúel Jónsson’s works.

Bíldudalur & Patreksfjörður

The small fishing villages of Bíldudalur, Tálknafjörður and the larger village of Patreksfjörður are the main settlements on the westernmost region of the Westfjords – indeed the westernmost region of Europe! Bíldudalur (Rte. 63) is a pretty village on the shores of Arnarfjörður with a dark and scary secret: The Sea Monster Museum where the history of sea monster sightings in Icelandic history, folk culture and literature are revealed. A disproportionate number of sea monsters have been spotted in and around Arnarfjörður, so keep an eye on the surface of the fjord as you leave town—are you sure that was just a seal dipping out of view? And if you’ve just driven all the way from Dynjandi without afternoon tea, the museum’s café is a lovely place to stop for a monster snack. skrimsli.is Patreksfjörður was named after a bishop from the British Isles who was the foster father of the area’s first settler, Örlygur Hrappsson. Patreksfjörður is the name of both the fjord and the village here (Rte. 62). Trade began in Patreksfjörður in 1570, making it one of the oldest trading posts in the Westfjords, and is now the largest town in the southern part of Westfjords, and serving as the trade and service hub for the farms and villages of west Barðarstrandasýsla district. As with many other villages in the Westfjords, Patreksfjörður offers many exciting hiking options. It is a good place for anyone interested in experiencing the peace and silence of a typical fishing village, as well as the natural beauty that defines the area.

Across the fjord from Patreksfjörður is a small museum, the Egill Ólafsson Museum at Hnjótur in Örlygshöfn, which includes some noteworthy pieces of Iceland’s aviation history, among other objects of historical interest. where it is well worth taking a break and having some refreshments. hnjoturtravel.is

Látrabjarg

The cliffs of Látrabjarg, at the end of Rte. 612, mark the westernmost point of Iceland – and Europe. Látrabjarg is 14km / 9 miles long and up to 444m / 276ft high, teeming with different species of nesting seabirds. The Black Guillemot and Razorbill bird colonies at Látrabjarg are among the world’s biggest. The cliffs are occupied by millions of Puffins, Gannets, Guillemots and Razorbills. Látrabjarg was once a major local source of food. For centuries, generation after generation of farmers would catch birds and gather eggs, risking their lives as they dangled perilously over the cliff top. Eggs are still collected from the cliff today, partly to keep alive this tradition, and partly for research purposes. Enjoy this unforgettable bird cliff on the edge of the world, with white sand beaches below and Snæfellsjökull glacier in the distance. In nearby Breiðavík Bay, seals can often be spotted in the crashing waves.

Please be careful at Látrabjarg, there are no safety fences, the soil can be slippery near the edges, and it can be difficult to see where the edges project precariously from the cliff top.

HOW A CLIFFHANGER RESCUE BECAME A CLIFFHANGER OF A FILM One of the bravest rescue operations in Iceland’s history was undertaken beneath Látrabjarg when the British trawler the Dhoon ran aground there in bad weather in December 1947. Local farmers saved the lives of 14 crew members by scaling down the 200 m Bæjarbjarg cliff under treacherous, icy conditions.

One member of the impromptu rescue team, Þórður Jónsson, later suggested a documentary be made about the dramatic rescue. While filmmaker Óskar Gíslason was filming at Látrabjarg, another British trawler – the Sargon – ran aground at nearby Patreksfjörður. People involved in the filming, including Jónsson, rushed to the scene, and the cameramen filmed this second rescue, later editing the footage into the documentary about the Dhoon (Rescue at Látrabjarg, released 1949).

Rauðisandur

Rauðisandur (‘Red Sands’) is an extensive, sandy coastal area southeast of Látrabjarg (off Rte. 614). It is ideal for strolling along its amazing white, golden and red sands. The colors vary a lot depending on the season, the time of day, and the place from which the shore is viewed. Rauðisandur also offers a spectacular view of Snæfellsjökull glacier, which is almost due south.

The Baldur Ferry to Snæfellsnes

Brjánslækur (Rte. 62) is where the ferry Baldur departs for Snæfellsnes. It takes less than three hours to cross the bay of Breiðafjörður, stopping at Flatey Island before arriving at the village Stykkishólmur. Cars must be booked in advance at Sæferðir – saeferdir.is

Reykhólar

Reykhólar (Rte. 606, off Rte. 607) is a place of natural beauty and historical interest. There is a lot of geothermal heat in the surrounding area, which is very fertile. The farm here – one of the biggest and richest in Iceland’s history – was perhaps so prosperous because of the diversity of natural wealth in the area: from the abundance of seals, fish and mussels, to the collection of seaweed and eider down. The church at nearby Staður (Rte. 607) is maintained by the National Museum of Iceland. It was built in 1864 and is unusual in that it was one of the first wooden churches to be painted, rather than tarred, and is quite well preserved.

Skarðsströnd & Fellsströnd

South of Reykhólar, on the western side of Iceland’s ‘neck’, is a stretch of coast (Rte. 590) that receives relatively little traffic, despite its picturesque setting and magnificent views across Breiðafjörður to the southern shores of the Westfjords and the northern shores of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, including the glacier on a clear day. This area is not considered part of the Westfjords, but we include it here because it’s most likely you’ll approach it after exploring the Westfjords (or Snæfellsnes). There are many farms here, including the manor farm Skarð, which has been kept in the same family for almost 1,000 years. Skarð has its own church, and the harbor nearby was once a small trading post. Klofningsfjall – ‘cloven mountain’ – is only 496m / 1627ft high but rewards climbers with great views and an observation dial identifying distant landmarks. Right below the mountain is the Dagverðarnes Church, sitting precariously close to the edge of the rocks. Hvammur is a church and important historical site (off Rte. 590 a few kilometres west of the junction with Rte. 60) where Auður Ketilsdóttir, who married King Ólafur of Dublin, settled after the death of their only son at battle in Scotland. Hvammur was also the birthplace of Snorri Sturluson, who became medieval Iceland’s most significant scholar and saga writer. If you avoid the coast here and take the main road (Rte. 60) across instead, note that the big stone in the Svínadalur Valley is another significant saga landmark – it’s the place where saga hero Kjartan Ólafsson of Laxdæla Saga is said to have been killed by his foster brother, Bolli Þorleiksson.