15 minute read

Travel the North

Next Article
Travel the East

Travel the East

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel

Travel the North

Considering the northern points of Iceland stretch outwards towards the Arctic Circle and are washed by the icy Greenland Sea, it might come as a pleasant surprise to discover that the climate of this region is curiously warmer, drier and sunnier than in the south. If you look at the shape of the region on a map, you’ll notice how the Tröllaskagi peninsula in particular is marked with a density of high convoluted mountain ranges, divided by deep valleys and veined with numerous rivers. Apart from the cozy climate and the interesting topography, being so far north, the region is illuminated with a different intensity of light across all seasons, and is especially famous for its spectacular sunsets, where the sun never fully sets and instead, blazes on the horizon in a protracted state of golden glory until dawn.

Between Mývatn & Akureyri

Goðafoss. Conveniently located just off Rte. 1 Goðafoss is the landmark waterfall of the north and renowned not only for its beauty, but for the interesting story of its name, which translates as ‘Waterfall of the Gods’. Goðafoss is a horseshoe-shaped waterfall with an interesting design where rocky promontories interrupt the flow, channeling it rather symmetrically into a series of terrific torrents. It is fed by the icy blue waters of the Skjálfandafljót River, which flow all the way from Vatnajökull glacier, and fall thunderously into an impressive 3km / 1.9 mile long canyon cut through a 7,000 year old lava field.

Waterfall of the gods. According to the Sagas, in the year 1000, the law-speaker Þorgeir of Ljósavatn returned from Alþingi – with the decision that the Icelandic state would convert to Christianity - and disposed ceremoniously of the pagan Norse idols into the falls. Aldeyarfoss. West of Goðafoss on Rte. 842 the Aldeyjarfoss waterfall with its powerful discharge of 90 tons/ second of water into a strange chasm of twisted basalt columns, is well worth the detour inland. Vaglaskógur in Fnjóskadalur Rte. 836 is a beautiful birch forest and one of the few original surviving wooded areas of Iceland. Most of the other natural forests were over-exploited or perished

during the mini ice-age, between 1400 and 1900. The trees in this forest range from between five and ten meters tall and provide plenty of leafy respite from the vast treeless expanses of Iceland. Laufás. On Rte. 83 about 30 km (19 miles) north of Akureyri, Laufás is a well preserved 19th century farm and parsonage, now functioning as a museum. Built in a lovely meadow on the east side of the Eyjafjörður peninsula, this well known stop on the northern route is another example of how old Icelandic architecture inspired the turf-topped dwellings of J.R.R.Tolkein’s much loved Hobbits. At the old-fashioned café shop next door, you can try out some tasty traditional meals, such as bread baked with mountain moss (fjallagras) and rhubarb pie. Laufás – 600 Akureyri - akmus.is

Safnasafnið. If you’re interested in seeing how boundaries between different genres of art are successfully erased, then there’s a quirky little arthouse and picnic stop, conveniently located on the ring road, around 11 km (7 miles) from Akureyri. The endearing qualities of this gallery are found in its emphasis on sincerity, its lack of artistic snobbery and its focus on combining folk art with outsider art. The curators here are known to scour the country looking for quality specimens from both known and unknown artists. Svalbarðsströnd – 601 Akureyri -

safnasafnid.is

Akureyri

Akureyri is the northern capital of Iceland and noted particularly for its picturesque town center at the heart of the Eyjafjörður fjord. As Rte. 1 descends into the east side of the fjord, look out for the viewing platforms where you can stop and admire the town from across the water; visitors are often pleasantly surprised by its population of charming traditional houses, thick inbetween with trees and vegetation. Established in 1787, Akureyri is the main trading hub and service center of the North and a popular base for tourists wanting to explore the many highlights and attractions of the region. The town itself has a wealth of interesting locations and activities, with a variety of museums, art galleries and open air swimming pools, with no shortage of hiking trails, horse-riding tours and sailing/fishing opportunities. It also boasts the world’s most northerly botanic garden, a ski resort and an international airport. As host of the annual Artic Open, the region attracts golfers from around the world who come to play golf during a period when the sun never goes down – at least not completely! The accommodation options in Akureyri are diverse and range from small hostels to quality hotels. There’s also a collection of restaurants - which tend to use locally produced ingredients in their dishes, and a modest selection of charismatic café-houses, concentrated mainly in the town center and in the trendy Listagil area - a street exclusively dedicated to culture, art and fine food.

THE REMARKABLE ICELANDIC HORSE Although they may look like ponies, the horses found in Iceland are sought after purebreds with unique characteristics and five gaits – apart from the usual walks and gallops of other horses the Icelandic horse can perform the comfortable and smooth ‘tölt’ gait. In recent years the Icelandic horse has become an extremely valuable breed and sought after throughout the world for export. Thirteen of these wonderful horses were used in the production of the Peter Jackson’s film adaptation of J.R.R.Tolkien’s epic fantasy novel The Hobbit.

The nightlife in Akureyri is rather vibrant for a town of only 17,200 people, with some popular live music venues and nightclubs such as Græni Hatturinn. Græni Hatturinn – Hafnarstræti 96.

Hof Culture House. This basalt covered cultural house is a relatively new addition to the picture-postcard view of Akureyri. Apart from housing the local tourist information centre, Hof is designed with an acoustically sophisticated concert hall and has first rate facilities for hosting conferences and other cultural events. Maps of Akureyri and the surrounding areas are available at the tourist information centre. Open daily in the summer between 7:30am - 19:00 (7pm). Strandgata 12 – visitakureyri.is

Sjónlistamiðstöðin – Center for Visual Arts. Apart from exhibiting the talents of home grown artists such as Erró, this modest gallery in the northern quarter of Iceland has displayed collections from some rather impressive names in the world of art including: Matthew Barney, Louise Bourgeois, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Fang Lijun, Goya, Jenny Holzer, Per Kirkeby, Sally Mann, Yue Minjun, Orlan, Rembrandt, Carolee Schneemann, Andres Serrano, Laila Shawa, Bill Viola, Joel-Peter Witkin and Zhang Xiaogang. Kaupvangstræti 12 – listak.is/en

Nonnahús – Nonni’s House is a museum dedicated to the memory of children’s author Jón Sveinsson, and located in his childhood home on Aðalstræti 54. The museum is named after his most popular character and literary creation ‘Nonni’, who together with his brother Manni, lived on a remote farm in North Iceland and had all sorts of adventures there. The stories have been translated into at least 40 languages - including Esperanto! Aðalstræti 54 – nonni.is Minjasafn á Akureyri - Akureyri Museum. Next door to Nonnahús is Akureyri’s own preservation of cultural history dating back to the settlement of Eyjafjörður in the years 874 -1000. The museum also covers the development of Akureyri as a town since the early 19th century. Aðalstræti 58 – minjasafnid.is The Botanical Garden in the summertime is an unexpected paradise of trees, flowers and shrubs with stunning views overlooking the fjord. It’s the northernmost botanical garden in the world and was established by some of the local women in 1912, with the botanical section opening in 1957. Walking through the beautiful garden with its abundance of rich flora is a pleasant and peaceful experience and the perfect place to contemplate the diversity of life. Growing in the garden beds and nurseries are thousands of plant species, with around 430 that are native to Iceland. Apart from being a center of research and education, the botanical garden also functions as an important seed bank. Located on Eyrarlandsvegur. Eyrarlandsholt - lystigardur.akureyri.is. Flugsafn Íslands - The Aviation Museum has been delighting fans of aviation with its collection of antique planes and gliders since it opened 1999. The collection includes 25 planes, with one display exhibiting the wreckage of a British war plane which crashed into a glacier in 1941. Apart from the planes, the museum has a valuable collection of interesting information on the history and development of aviation in Iceland

since the year 1919. Akureyri Domestic Airport – flugsafn.is

Kjarnaskógur Forest. Given its remarkable density and coverage (approx. 600 ha) it’s hard to believe that this beautiful forest, just south of the town, didn’t exist before the year 1952. Since the first trees were planted, there’s been a sustained effort to plant more and over the years a record one million trees, of various species, have now been planted. The forest is a wonderful recreational area, complete with playgrounds, picnic and barbecue facilities, and a network of enchanting trails for walking or mountain biking. During Akureyri’s snowy winters, around 10km of illuminated trails are prepared for cross county skiing.

Jólagarðurinn - The Christmas House.

Warning! Not an attraction for the Grinch-hearted! A few kilometers south of Akureyri on Rte. 821, there’s an enchanting shop designed as a fairytale house topped with faux candy and dedicated to the magic of Christmas. Visitors stepping into the house are transported to Christmas heaven where a beautiful selection of quality decorations from around the world augment an exhibition of traditional Icelandic Christmas themed items - handcrafted locally. To complete the festive atmosphere, aromas of cinnamon and peppermint mingle with the smell of smoked lamb and burning wood embers. The sound of them crackling in the hearth adds to the familiar melodies of Christmas carols being played in the background. In the charming little garden surrounding the house, look out a few extra Christmas treats, including a turret with the world’s biggest advent calendar, a wishing well and probably the most festive restroom in the world! Slétta – 601 Akureyri.

THE YULE TIDE LADS advent in Iceland starts 13 days before Christmas where the first of the 13 Yuletide Lads - with names like ‘Candle Sneaker’ and ‘Sausage Swiper’ - descend from their mountain homes to cause some mischief, and deliver presents or punishments to sleeping children. The naughty ones tend to wake up to find a potato in their stockings!

There are many swimming pools in Akureyri, with the biggest and perhaps most beautiful located on Þingvallastræti, not far from the town centre. Þingvallastræti 21. sundlaug.is

For activites in and around Akureyri, please visit our website icelandtravel.is or the local tourist information center at Hof. You can also book tours in the app.

Tröllaskagi - The Troll Peninsula

Most visitors leaving Akureyri, stay on Rte. 1 and head straight for the Northwest cutting across the Öxnadalur Valley towards Skagafjörður - which has its own collection of striking scenery. However, if you have time for a new epic chapter of impressive fairy

tale landscapes, then take the detour on Rte. 82 around the spectacular coastline of the Troll Peninsula, where the roads traverse emerald green valleys overshadowed by monster mountains - aptly named after their gigantic storybook counterparts, ascend the rising heights of sheer cliffs and occasionally disappear into the darkness of narrow tunnels. Hrísey is a small island located in the middle of Eyjafjörður and a memorable destination, especially because of the exceptional views of the midnight sun and the surrounding fjord. The island is known to have been inhabited since the 10th century and has a current population of around 200 people, who still regard their old habits and traditions with high importance. The island is well serviced and includes a guesthouse, a restaurant, a camp site, a café, a shop and a thermal swimming pool. The island is renowned for its rich birdlife, its harvest of blue oysters, and its popular tractor-driven sightseeing trips around the island. Hosted within the island’s oldest building is an interesting shark exhibition at the ‘House of Shark Jörundur’. The house also serves as the island’s visitor information centre.

Hrísey info Center – hrisey.is/en

The ferry to Hrísey takes around 15 minutes and departs from Árskógasandur harbor. Contact the ferry line, Hríseyjarferjan Sævar, for more information. Hríseyjarferjan Sævar – hrisey.is/en Dalvík is a tiny town tucked away between the glimmering Arctic Ocean and the magnificent mountains of West Eyjafjörður. Once a year this small sociable society, of around 2,000 people, ambitiously invites the whole country for a fish themed summer feast and festival called ‘Fiskidagurinn mikli’. Over the years the event has attracted over 200,000 guests and has become very popular in Iceland. The free food, which includes the traditional great fish grill and fabulous fish soup, is served up by some of Iceland’s master chefs, and while you’re enjoying the feast, you’ll also be entertained with music, theatre and a marvelous exhibition of marine life. In case you’re not in town during the festival, there are plenty of other activities to pursue including: whale watching, horse riding in the beautiful Svarfaðardalur Valley or swimming in the lovely local pool. The town also has a traditional folk museum featuring a taxidermy polar bear and some farming artefacts; perhaps a more intriguing focus of the museum is on the man known as ‘the Giant’ or Jóhann Svarfdælingur, who at 2.34 meters (7ft. 8 in.) was at one point in time, the tallest man in the world. The harbor in Dalvík has a large fishing and commercial port, and also serves as the departure point of the ‘Sæfari’ ferry which serves the island of Grímsey (see below).

Grímsey is the true north of Iceland, and is the only part of the country located within the Arctic Circle. Needless to say the sunsets here are remarkable during the summer, with unparalleled views of the northern lights in the winter. The population of the island has stayed relatively stable over the years with between 90 and 100 inhabitants. Norlandair flies daily to the island during the summer, and three times a week in winter. norlandair.is

Fjallabyggð

Ólafsfjörður. From Dalvík Rte. 82 winds up a sheer mountain in vertigo inducing style to some ear popping heights, and then disappears into a dark mountain tunnel; beside the mouth of the tunnel there’s a viewing platform at the edge of the promontory with breathtaking views of the fjord - you may have to overcome your fear of heights to make this a snapshot stop though! After a 3.5km (2 miles) trip through the belly of the mountain, the road exits the darkness and descends into the bustling little fishing village of Ólafsfjörður. Another tunnel from Ólafsfjörður leads to the neighbouring village of Siglufjörður via the uninhabited Héðinsfjörður fjord. Before the Héðinsfjörður tunnel was completed in 2010, visitors to Siglufjörður would continue on Rte. 82 inland and travel 62km (38.5 miles) through the highland pass Lágheiði - when Lágheiði was closed people would have to travel further afield via the 232 km Öxnadalur Valley.

MOUNTAIN TUNNELS encountering one of Iceland’s narrow mountain tunnels for the first time can be quite an alarming experience, especially when you realize some are designed with only one lane. So what happens when you meet a car coming in the opposite direction? Every now and then little pockets of space appear on one side of the tunnel, the vehicles with pockets located to the right of them, must yield to the oncoming traffic. If travelling on a sunny day, it’s a good idea to have some sunglasses at hand for the blazing bright light at the end of the tunnel.

Fljót. This sparsely populated region is accessed by continuing on Rte. 82 from Ólafsfjörður, and ascending the highlands of Lágheiði, where misty green mountains press closely to the winding road, progressively exerting their dominating presence. The scenery as you descend on the other side is simply spectacular, as is the valley of Fljót, which is characterised by snowtopped convoluted mountains and superior green pastures. Fans of Keith Carradine, may recognise some of the scenery of this region from his film Falcon. From Fljót you can head north and around the coastline to Siglufjörður or west and on to the highlights of the Skagafjörður region.

THE LEGEND OF BLÁKÁPA once upon a time in the northern settlement of Fljót on the Tröllaskagi peninsula lived a woman named Blákápa or Blue-Cloak, who - in a bid to keep out trespassers - built a wall across the entire valley extending from the top of one mountain to the top of the other. When she died, all her treasures were buried including a mysterious silver belt. According to the legend, anyone who could cross the valley wall, walking backwards and without looking back or falling off, could claim her buried treasure as their own.

Siglufjörður is one of Iceland’s best known fishing villages, beautifully situated in a steep-sided fjord and enclosed by a range of rugged, lofty mountains. For over a century this town was one of Iceland’s most significant fishing and whaling towns, especially during first half of the 20th century. At its peak, the town was even known as the herring capital of the world with a prosperous economy and home to over 3000 people. But when the fish population declined, so did the number of inhabitants. It still operates as a fishing town, but has a new emphasis on tourism. Apart from the usual selection of shops and services offered at small Icelandic towns, Siglufjörður or ‘Sigló’ - as the locals refer to it, has a couple of interesting exhibitions, a nine-hole golf course and a fantastic new restaurant called Hannes Boy Café. hannesboy.is

The town was a filming location for the popular Icelandic thriller show Trapped.

Sildarminjasafnið – The Herring Era Museum is a beautifully curated and an award-winning museum, offering and offers a remarkable glimpse into an industry that generated, at various points in history, over a quarter of the country’s export income. sild.is

This article is from: