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Travel West Iceland
Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel
Travel West Iceland
The West of Iceland is characterized by fjords, valleys, volcanoes and craters. In the West, the water flows from the earth in every form, from rivers of sparkling cool mineral water to Europe’s most voluminous hot spring, Deildartunguhver. Snæfellsnes peninsula juts out to the west, and the Westfjords stretch towards the far north-west. But because there is so much to see and do in each of these areas, as well as in central and inland West Iceland, we decided to give them their own chapters, so see the previous two chapters if you’re looking for the Westfjords or anything west of Heydalur at Snæfellsnes (Rte. 55). In olden times, West Iceland was a flourishing agricultural region with plentiful food resources. Its location made it a popular place for people from the north and south to meet, trade – and fight! Many Saga characters lived in or passed through West Iceland, as reflected by the region’s plentiful Saga-related museums, sites and tours.
Deildartunguhver hot spring
Deildartunguhver is Europe’s most powerful hot spring, located just north of the junction between Rte. 50 and 518. Its flow rate is one of the highest in the world, at 180 litres / 48 gallons of 98°C (208°F) hot water per second. The water used for central heating in the nearby towns of Borgarnes and Akranes is mostly taken from Deildartunguhver. The hot water pipeline to Akranes is 64km / 40 miles long, the longest in Iceland, and the water has cooled to around 80°C / 176°F by the time it reaches Akranes. At the car park at Deildartunguhver you can purchase fresh tomatoes, grown in the local greenhouses and packed especially for passing travelers. Experience nature from its core by bathing in the geothermal baths at Krauma. The hot water originates in Europe’s most powerful hot spring Deildartunguhver, at a temperature of 100°C (212°F). To achieve the perfect bathing temperature the hot water is mixed with cold water from Rauðsgil. Krauma offers five relaxing natural geothermal baths, a cold tub to get your blood circulation going, two calming saunas and a relaxation room where you can rest by the fireplace while listening to soothing music.
Krauma Restaurant serves Icelandic cuisine from the freshest local farm produced ingredients. Relax in the comfortable environment of the restaurant while enjoying the spectacular view of Europe’s most powerful hot spring. The bar and lounge offers a wide selection of drinks and snacks and is well suited to relax and unwind at the end of the day. You can book your entrance to Krauma in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is
Reykholt
Reykholt (Rte. 518) is a school center and one of Iceland’s most noteworthy historical sites. Snorri Sturluson (1178–1241), the most renowned Icelandic saga writer, scholar and chieftain, lived in Reykholt, where he wrote famous works such as Heimskringla, Snorra Edda and, most likely, Egils Saga. The settlement of Reykholt lies within Reykholtsdalur, a well-forested and geothermally active valley. The valley is the site of a major reforestation drive – in the year 2000, an impressive 281,000 trees were planted at Reykholt, one for every member of the population at the time. Reykholt is home to the Snorrastofa culture and medieval centre, founded in memory of Snorri Sturluson. Snorrastofa holds exhibitions, including the permanent ‘Snorri Sturluson and His Time’ exhibition focusing on this important figure’s life and work. The center also manages various research projects, serves as a tourist information office and sells souvenirs – many with a historical bent. snorrastofa.is
There’s a well-restored 1887 church at Reykholt, but its duties are now performed by the much more modern church nearby. If you’re visiting in July, note that the annual Reykholt Music Festival (classical) is held at the Reykholt church in late July. reykholtshatid.is
Snorri Sturluson is said to have spent a lot of time in his pool, thinking and holding political meetings there. Although the exact location of the pool has never been confirmed, a 1959 reconstruction of Snorralaug – ‘Snorri’s pool’ – is now the most popular site at Reykholt. Behind the pool is a door leading to an underground passageway, perhaps to the very basement where Snorri was ultimately murdered.
Hraunfossar & Barnafoss waterfalls
Less than 20 km from Reykholt, the picturesque Hraunfossar waterfalls (Rte. 518) pour in a succession of cascades from under a lava field, into the Hvítá River. The source of the Hraunfossar
waterfalls are clear, cold springs that well up through the lava and run in falls and rapids into the Hvítá River – a beautiful and unusual natural phenomena.
Barnafoss waterfall just upstream from Hraunfossar has been a protected site since 1987. Over time, the river has burrowed down through the lava and now runs in a deep, narrow ravine. There used to be a stone arch spanning the river. Barnafoss means ‘children’s waterfall’ and the name is derived from the story of two children who disappeared one Christmas, many years ago, from the nearby farm at Hraunsás. There was a rock arch over the waterfall and the children are believed to have fallen off it into the river. Their grieving mother destroyed the arch and put a curse on the falls that nobody would ever be able to cross the river on such a rock arch and live, so beware!
Víðgelmir & Surtshellir caves
At 148,000 m / 1,593,058sq ft, Víðgelmir is the biggest lava cave in Iceland and one of the biggest in the world. There are weird and wonderful rock, ice, and mineral formations. The cave is close to Surtshellir but can only be accessed on guided tours (of 1 to 4 hours) led by Fljótstunga Farm on Rte. 518. Tours of Víðgelmir are not suitable for young children. Viking-Age artefacts were found inside Víðgelmir in 1993, including jewellery that is now on display at the National Museum in Reykjavík.
You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is
Surtshellir lava cave isn’t far from Víðgelmir and can be accessed independently (Rte. F578, off Rte. 518). The cave’s main tube extends nearly 2km / 1.2 miles, but its narrow side passages can be more fun to explore. Proceed with extreme caution as the cave floor can be slippery, and the darkness can be disorienting. You will need appropriate shoes, warm clothes and a strong flashlight, and preferably a helmet and gloves too. The parking area is a five-minute walk from the cave entrance.
A taste of the highlands. Most travelers treat Rte. 518 as a loop and then head back towards the coast, but if your exploration of the Víðgelmir and Surtshellir caves (above) leaves you in an adventurous mood, note that Rte. 550 takes you through Kaldidalur – ‘the cold valley’ – between Ok glacier to the west, and Langjökull, Geitlandsjökull and Þórisjökull glaciers to the east. This option is especially recommended if you’re not planning to experience Iceland’s interior highlands elsewhere. The road is fine for regular cars in summer, but when it’s windy, drivers are sometimes slowed down
by sandstorms. Turn off at Rte. 551 to get up close and personal with the sizable Langjökull glacier. You can book a superjeep tour of Langjökull in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is
Into the Glacier offers tours into man made Ice Tunnels and Ice Caves from Reykjavík and Húsafell or you can meet them at the glacier edge.
You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is
Borgarnes
Borgarnes (Rte. 1) is the largest coastal community in Iceland that is not dependent on fishing. The town is built on a scenic headland jutting into the picturesque fjord of Borgarfjörður, close to Borg, where the Viking poet and warrior, Egill Skallagrímsson – the eponymous hero of Egill’s Saga, one of Iceland’s most famous Sagas – lived in the 10th century. Borgarnes is known as the capital of the Borgarbyggð county. Borgarnes became an official trading center in 1867 when merchant ships sailed to Borgarfjörður, and the town soon developed into an important center for commerce between different regions of Iceland. The first mention of Borgarnes is found in Egill’s Saga, where it is written that when Egill’s grandfather Kveld-Úlfur realised he would die at sea, he said that on his death his coffin should be thrown overboard and a settlement established wherever it came ashore. The coffin, so the story says, came ashore at Borgarnes.
The Settlement Center in Borgarnes opened in 2006 and is worth a visit. It provides more detail about Egill’s Saga, mentioned above, and other sagas linked to the region. The museum is housed in three buildings. One permanent exhibition deals exclusively with Egill’s Saga, while another focuses on the settlement of Iceland. The Settlement Center also organises tours around the area, visiting places of particular interest in relation to Egill’s Saga. Brákarbraut 13. landnam.is/eng
Akranes
Row-boat fishermen based themselves at Akranes (Rte. 51) as far back as the 1600s, and the township evolved during the 19th century. Fishing remains its main industry, but Akranes also has a cement plant, running since the 1950s, and an aluminium smelting plant that began operating in 1998. The landscape here is dominated by Mt. Akrafjall, home to thousands of gulls. At Garðar, on the outskirts of Akranes, is the Akranes Museum Centre. The Center incorporates the Akranes Folk Museum, the Icelandic Sports Museum and the Mineral Kingdom, as well as featuring an outdoor boat display. The Mineral Kingdom is highly recommended for anyone interested in a petrologic tour of Iceland – it has one of the biggest collections of Icelandic rocks under one roof, and explains the geology behind all those amazing colors you’ve been seeing in various rock formations around the country. Garðar – museum.is
Hvalfjörður Fjord
Travelling between Reykjanes and Borgarnes you have the choice of either taking the Hvalfjarðargöng tunnel (Rte. 1) under the mouth of Hvalfjörður Fjord, or exploring the beautiful coastline of one of Iceland’s longest fjords (30km /18 miles), on Rte. 47. During World War II, Hvalfjörður became one of the most important Allied naval bases in the North Atlantic, as a refuelling station for the Allied fleet. The many large oil tanks around the village of Miðsandur are remnants of this refuelling station. Hvalfjörður translates as ‘whale fjord’, a name derived from the abundance of whales found here. Until 1986, Hvalfjörður was home to one of Iceland’s biggest whaling stations. Near the head of the fjord is the turnoff to Glymur waterfall, Iceland’s second highest waterfall at 198m / 650ft. If you’re familiar with the much better known Gullfoss waterfall, keeping in mind that Glymur is five times the height of Gullfoss helps put it into perspective! The trail to Glymur is tricky in places, so be careful. You have to cross a narrow suspension bridge across the river at one point, so we don’t recommend this trip for young children. Allow 3 hours for a round trip from the car park up the east side of the river. The west side is a slightly easier and shorter walk, but the view isn’t nearly as good. Glymur means ‘boom’ or ‘rumble’ and comes from the natural sound of water falling far down into a narrow chasm, creating excellent acoustics. On the southern edge of Hvalfjörður is an area called Hvammur. This is a lovely forested area with many walking trails.