ANDERSON RESERVE
A Culinary Gem in Sweet Idaho
Secrets of the Best Boise Chefs
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CONTENTS 3 5 6
Contributors
Editor’s Letter Anderson Reserve Come as a Customer, Leave as a Friend
11 Sun Valley Culinary Institute is Ready to Serve
12 The Sweetest Thing
Chef Duff Goldman's Expanding Empire
16 Great Restaurants Guide 25 Chef Spotlight:
Chef Enrique Martinez of Barbacoa, Coa De Jima, and Coa Del Mar
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27 Chef Spotlight:
Jessica Rudell Chef of Tavolàta Boise
29 Chef Spotlight:
Edward Higgins The Lively
31 Chef Spotlight:
Jaspreet Singh and Parminder Bhatti of Red Fort
33 'Tis the Season for Rum Bardenay
35 House of Wine 37 From Kegs to Corks
Proletariat Wine Company offers sustainable sips
39 Lost Grove Brewing
Leave the Right Footprint
41 Barbarians at Boise's Gates 43 Take a Sober Holiday 48 Rex Chandler Playing the Long Game
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WINTER 2023-2024 publisher K A R E N DAY karen@idahorem.com editor APRIL NEALE april@idahorem.com features editor H E AT H E R H A M I LT O N POST heather@idahorem.com art and design J A SON J AC OB SE N jsngrafix@gmail.com K A L E Y W R IGH T design@idahorem.com director of operations M A R IELLE W EST PH A L admin@idahorem.com staff photographer K A R E N DAY cover photograph K A R E N DAY social media APRIL NEALE marketing, sales, and distribution AMBER EVE SEMPSON amber@idahorem.com IdaHome Magazine, LLC P.O. Box 116 Boise, Idaho 83701 208.481.0693 © 2023 IdaHome Magazine. All rights reserved. The opinions expressed by the authors and contributors to IdaHome Magazine are not necessarily those of the editor and publisher.
Community + Culture + Recreation + Real Estate
ON THE COVER The "Sweet Idaho" life is a destination for fine dining at Anderson Reserve. Here, chef and owner Paul Anderson holds one of their top dinner menu items, "Surf and Turf," a USDA Prime coulotte steak, cold water Maine lobster tail, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, parsnip puree, asparagus, baby carrots, red wine compound butter, and the requisite freshly drawn butter masterpiece.
CONTRIBUTORS April Neale is an entertainment features writer and has read her work on NPR and Spoken Interludes and writes for various industry trades and entertainment websites. Neale is a member of the Critics Choice Association, Alliance of Women Film Journalists, Hollywood Critics Association, Television Critics Association, and other professional entertainment organizations. Carolyn Komatsoulis is an avid foodie and a local Boise journalist originally hailing from Washington, D.C. She's eaten and written about lots of food over her stops in Ecuador, Nebraska, and Boston and looks forward to writing more about what Idaho has to offer.
Karen Day is a photographer and the fearless captain of our fleet of pages and mighty crew. A list of her creative passions and true job description risks making her appear insane, rather than insanely talented. Her habit of climbing onto the ledge of possibility offers us continuous adventures and little sleep. All aboard! Kyley Jolna graduated from the University of Colorado, Boulder, with a double degree in Communications and English, Creative Writing. She has worked in media relations within the entertainment industry for the past decade. Since moving to Boise, she has "switched sides" and now writes the articles. Darby Tarantino is a wine, culinary arts, and hospitality professional with more than 20 years of experience in the industry. She holds a degree in Wine Evaluation and is a graduate of the world-renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School in Co. Cork, Ireland. She is the owner of Enlightened Vine, which specializes in educational vine-to-wine experiences. Sabina Dana Plasse is a professional writer and editor from Baltimore, Maryland, who moved to Idaho more than 15 years ago. Besides writing and editing, she launches start-up events, assists businesses with publicity and marketing, and is an active film reviewer. When not working, she is enjoying the outdoors, traveling, and watching movies. www.idahomemagazine.com
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Photo by Thistle & Pine Creative
Modern and Classic Cocktails, Oysters, and Small Plates at the Corner of 9th & Jefferson in Downtown Boise www.waterbearbar.com @waterbearbar
Dear Readers,
It's been one year since IdaHome publisher Karen Day came to me and said, "Let's start a food and drink magazine that showcases Boise and beyond." The rush of wondering if we could entice readers and advertisers to buy into this idea was terrifying and exciting. We are deeply grateful to all of you for believing in us. Our inaugural issue arrived just before FARE Idaho's brilliant Field to Fork Festival, where we spoke to many Idahoan ranchers, farmers, and makers. The experience steeled our resolve to create the most sophisticated and informative food and beverage magazine in the state. This issue spans the holidays and the childlike wonder of letting ourselves be kids again, as well as our hope that, this season, regardless APRIL NEALE of religion, we all work for peace on Earth. Our beautiful Boise becomes Editor an old-fashioned snow globe with its tasteful downtown lights, wreaths, ribbons, and if we’re lucky, snowy streets for the sleigh rides around restaurant row. Further out in Caldwell, Nampa, and Meridian, each city has a stunning rendition of their holiday traditions. Our second Winter FLAVOR captures the Idaho experience and joy of casual dining to what esteemed restaurateur Rex Chandler described to me in our interview as "gracious hospitality" fine dining. If you think about it, FLAVOR is a celebration of the professionals who make it their business to dazzle and delight you when dining out. Their livelihood is to give you a wonderful experience. Our cover features Anderson Reserve, the perfect welcoming destination restaurant in Sweet, Idaho, that never rushes you away from the table as the Anderson family treats you like kin. The chef spotlight series looks at fabulous Indian food at Red Fort in Meridian and newcomer Tavolàta inside The Lucy. The Lively's Chef, Edward Higgins, and Barbacoa and Coa De Jima's Executive Chef, Enrique Martinez, share their culinary POVs as our wine expert, Darby Tarantino, covers the House of Wine, Lost Grove's philanthropy, and the magic of locally made Bardenay rum and other fine spirits. Sabina Dana Plasse explores the Sun Valley Culinary Institute and “Ace of Cakes” Duff Goldman is our FLAVOR celebrity chef who shares a treasured family recipe for you to make this season. We also feature local businesses that turn out fantastic non-alcoholic products for you to provide merry libations for guests not partaking in alcohol. It’s a growing trend! We'd love to see how you are celebrating Winter! Follow us on all the socials: X (Twitter), LinkedIn, Facebook, and Instagram to be featured on our feed. Winter is the season of gifts, and your interest and support is ours. Here's to 2024 and a year filled hopefully with respect, loving kindness, warm hearts, shared meals, and a stretched-out hand of tolerance. All the shining gifts that make peace on Earth.
In good taste,
April Neale
ANDERSON RESERVE Come as a Customer, Leave as a Friend
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
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www.idahomemagazine.com
By April Neale
Paul Anderson is an elite Idaho restaurateur, although he’d likely balk at the description. The humble Colorado entrepreneur is a rising culinary star thanks to a mix of talent, grit, and good timing despite the the curve ball of the pandemic. He’s making magic in Sweet, Idaho, which isn’t as easy to access as the foodie hotspots in downtown Boise or Ketchum. Still, people are making an effort to get there by car and, yes, even helicopter. Paul carries the same name as his grandfather, Paul Sr., who shared his love for enterprise and built a successful business in Colorado. His father Dennis equipped young Paul with many skills and watched his son take them on with great focus and flourish, including butchery, an Anderson family tradition. Paul's eventual goal was to sell the finest meat and prepare and execute a worldclass menu in a restaurant he dreamt up. And although he took a temporary detour in racing cars, Idaho was the state he settled on after a fateful drive through Sweet. Parents Dennis and Euphemia came to see the land after Paul had quietly made the purchase.
“The people here really make the experience.” Anderson Reserve presents a palpable change of pace, evoking a sort of nostalgia for a family dinner with the ones you love. In large part, that immersive feeling is thanks to Paul’s relatives, who work alongside him and the extended family he employs. "The people here really make the experience. My parents came after I was already building the restaurant. I had fallen on some hard times, and they sold everything in Colorado and moved here to help. And, they did that in a very big way," explained Paul. His parents, who sold their business interests in Colorado and came to help him see through his vision, worked alongside Paul to bring to life his big design ideas through work equity and building skills.
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
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"We completed the building and started working towards a grand opening,” Paul said. Now, his wife Samantha and mother greet guests at the front door to seat them. “That's probably our biggest asset. I'd love to say it was the food or the atmosphere of the surrounding area. But it's that they're greeted and welcomed as family," he said. The success of Anderson Reserve, which caught on like wildfire through very little to no advertising, suggests that people are longing for that familiar, comfortable experience and the restaurant’s straightforward American food, made with the highest quality ingredients with a take-your-time approach to service. The staff at Anderson Reserve stays on, bucking national restaurant trends. Have a lofty service industry or culinary resume? Paul said it requires more than that, especially since his guests are so warmly welcomed when they arrive. “I realized it was more important to have people with personality than just hitting twelve steps of service. Resumes are what you can type on paper. Not what you can produce. In the beginning, I thought we always had to hire career servers. Having a gift to gab and making somebody feel welcome at the table means so much,” he said.
“I realized it was more important to have people with personality than just hitting twelve steps of service.”
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
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PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
And because the restaurant is only open four days per week, Paul said they bond as a family. “Sometimes we yell at each other, like family. And at the end of the day, we're all high-fiving— that passion also comes through their attitudes at the table and in the kitchen. We're very passionate about service and always have each other's back. And that makes it so much more than just a job," he explained. Recently, Anderson Reserve introduced a new cigar and whiskey humidor. Salvaged local metal silos were retrofitted with rich woods, lighting, filtered air systems, artistic metal details, and comfy leather from which patrons can sip the best whiskey and wine. “Samantha and I had started eyeballing these silos. One cold night, we were sitting outside, both enjoying a cigar. And I said, 'It sure would be nice if we could smoke inside, wouldn't it?',” Paul said. From there, the pair created an idea for a cigar lounge. “We talked to several customers and realized it fits our customer base well. We drew out the plans, which have unfolded into precisely what we had imagined,” he said. So what’s next? Among other things, look for a summer concert seires."We plan to grow, expand, and do a little mini amphitheater,” Paul said. www.idahomemagazine.com
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YOUR RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
PHOTO COURTESY OF SUN VALLEY COMPANY
...begins in paradise
SCHOOL BEGINS SEPTEMBER 6, 2024! sunvalleyculinary.org | 208.913.0494 | info@sunvalleyculinary.org
PHOTO BY LASSO PHOTO CO.
PHOTO BY TED DANIEL
PHOTO BY LASSO PHOTO CO.
SUN VALLEY CULINARY INSTITUTE IS READY TO SERVE Elevating culinary education and cuisine in Idaho By Sabina Dana Plasse
Nestled in south-central Idaho’s Wood River Valley on Ketchum’s Main Street, the Sun Valley Culinary Institute (SVCI) has become a catalyst for changing the lives of culinary students as future food service leaders while connecting the community through food and a love of cooking. Since September 2021, SVCI students have been serving the needs of area food service establishments while earning their way to completing a U.S. Department of Labor Apprenticeship Certificate. For students embarking on a career in the culinary arts, SVCI’s One-Year Professional Program is a portal to a future as a culinary arts professional while serving a purpose for needed vocational support to Idaho’s diverse hospitality industries, especially in the Wood River Valley. SVCI additionally offers a space for the public to enjoy sold-out classes and events with visiting James Beard Award-winning, celebrity, and nationallycelebrated chefs, along with notable cookbook authors from the Northwest and around the country, providing an inviting and unforgettable metropolitan elevated food experience. Utilizing local and regional foods from known chefs and respected purveyors within the region offers students and
patrons an unparalleled food education and experience from farm to class and table while supporting growers, farmers, and suppliers. SVCI is taking the lead as a successful education and business model in Idaho, attracting and developing workforce talent while creating and offering new dining and entertainment options. “Sun Valley Culinary Institute students want to share their experience with the world,” said SVCI Executive Director Karl Uri. “As a world-class resort destination in Sun Valley, our students develop unique and strong foundational skills honed through real-world experiences. They are engaged in a one-year education learning about food and food industry sustainability that is directly tied to Idaho.” SVCI is a culinary classroom where James Beard Society chefs, food pioneers, and food industry entrepreneurs from around the country come to break bread with Wood River Valley residents, visitors, and guests all year round. Many previous and present students consider and dream of running their own restaurant in the valley. With dedicated and highly experienced knowledgeable chef instructors, SVCI students can achieve their potential. “The Sun Valley Culinary Institute is where students work to learn and learn to work,” said Mason Family Restaurants
founder and owner Scott Mason, who works with SVCI for student externships. Throughout the year, SVCI has classes, dinners, and fundraising events that support the school and its mission to educate students, create new career paths, and help sustain the Wood River Valley’s restaurant and hospitality community. The second annual Sun Valley Food & Wine Celebration will take place March 13-16, 2024, with community and donor events featuring accomplished and notable celebrity and celebrated James Beard Award-winning chefs from across the country with après ski events, a gala dinner at Sun Valley’s Trail Creek Cabin, wine tastings, and more. It’s one of the most unique events in Sun Valley, Idaho, where food lovers and supporters gather in an intimate environment with chefs, students, SVCI staff, and board members while enjoying the best of Sun Valley’s winter wonderland. “Connecting to supporters while celebrating food and the community allows us to accomplish our goals to educate culinarians, assisting the valley’s workforce, and offering a unique space everyone can enjoy, from cooking classes and dinners to events and parties,” said Uri. “Join us and become part of a new cuisine and culinary education era in Sun Valley, Idaho.”
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Duff Goldman in Food Network’s “The Elf on the Shelf: Sweet Showdown.” PHOTO COURTESY OF FOOD NETWORK
THE SWEETEST THING Chef Duff Goldman’s Expanding Empire
By April Neale
Food Network sensation Duff Goldman is mastering the world of TV chef stardom. The “Ace of Cakes” star’s new deal with Food Network, announced exclusively by Variety in September, sees the continuation of Goldman's beloved "Baking Championship" franchise and a brand new upcoming holiday event series, "The Elf on the Shelf: Sweet Showdown." What began in 2006 when the network debuted "Ace of Cakes," (a reality show featuring the Charles Village [Baltimore] destination bakery, Charm City Cakes team, and Chef Duff), is now three series starring this best-selling cookbook author and chef-preneur with distinctly different competitive premises. Of late, Goldman has been the face of series like "Ace of Taste," "Cake Masters," "Dessert Games," "Buddy vs. Duff," "Duff Takes the Cake," and "Duff 's Happy Fun Bake Time," which he balances with a young family, sales through Goldbelly, and several locations for his Charm City Cakes bakeries as well as 12
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Duff 's CakeMix, a DIY cake decorating studio franchise concept. Duff 's empire is rising like perfectly proofed dough. Goldman’s "Holiday Baking Championship," where bakers flex their skills, premieres on Nov. 6. Goldman appreciates the challenge it presents to contestants. "Finishing is the hardest part; making it clean, as cake, buttercream frosting, and sugar is not forgiving. Cake is malleable, and what makes cakes so difficult to work with is creating art that looks finished and clean," he said. But the chemistry isn’t just happening in the kitchen. Duff and fellow judges Carla Hall and Nancy Fuller are having a genuinely good time, all year round. "When the cameras are on, we're already going, but when they turn them off, it doesn't stop. The fun keeps going, and we stay in touch through text messages or whenever we see each other all year,” Goldman said. He reports that Fuller and his mom are friends, and frequently tell on him to one another. “Nancy will call me to say, 'Call your mom. You haven't called her in three days’," joked Goldman.
On Nov. 19, “Elf on the Shelf: Sweet Showdown” premieres, boasting six teams of confectionery artists competing in the fantastical world of Santa's loyal Scout Elves. Goldman hosts as competitors create edible showpieces for the ultimate gift of $25,000 and the title of Ambassador of Confectionery Concoctions. "People love Elf on the Shelf. Many people have it as part of their holiday traditions, and what's cool about this series is that we lean into the magic of the elves, which I thought was nice—we do a lot of fun things with editing,” Goldman said. With incredible people, lots of magic, and special effects, the show promises an entertaining variety. “It wasn't just cake people, which I thought was cool. The teams are all professional pastry chefs. One person was also an ice carver, and we had a couple of chocolatiers and some sugar artists," explained Goldman. In “Kids Baking Championship,” now in its twelfth season, kids take on exciting culinary challenges. "These kids are doing things at age ten that I didn't learn until I was 30," Goldman said. "They're tasked to create some things. And often, they're teaching me stuff because I don't work in restaurants anymore. I'm learning cutting-edge pastry things, and I try to keep up by reading many cookbooks and following pastry chefs doing cool stuff.” Their fresh perspective, which Goldman likens to Wile E. Coyote running off a cliff and not falling because he doesn’t know it, leads to a new level of creativity in the kitchen. “The kids are like that, breaking every rule that there is to break in baking. And sometimes they'll make amazing creations. I think, 'There's no reason this should be good,' but it is," he said. Goldman’s recipe, however, is tried and true, with a backstory as delicious as the cookie itself. Without this secret weapon, he might not have married his wife, he explained. "When I was dating my wife, she invited me to her family's Christmas cookie swap. She said, 'There are many excellent bakers in my family, so bring something good.' That's a lot of pressure for someone like me because, arguably, I am one of the most famous bakers in the country. What if I bring something mediocre? She'll never talk to me again,” Goldman recalled. “I had to really show up. I decided on my great-grandmother's Russian tea cakes. I brought them to the party, and lo and behold, I was invited back because those cookies were delicious."
Above: A contestant competes in “Kids Baking Championship: Reindeer Games.” Below: (L-R) Kardea Brown, Duff Goldman and Ashley Holt judging a contestant’s creation in Food Network’s “The Elf on the Shelf: Sweet Showdown.” PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOOD NETWORK
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RUSSIAN TEACAKE COOKIES Duff Goldman’s Heirloom Family Recipe INGREDIENTS 2 ½ sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 ¼ cups (20 ounces) all-purpose flour ¾ cup (6 ounces) sifted powdered sugar, plus more for rolling cookies ½ tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ¼ tablespoon ground cinnamon ¾ cup toasted walnuts, finely chopped DIRECTIONS • First, brown the butter: place the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat to cook. Check it after about 7 minutes; it should be a medium-brown color, not too light but not too burnt. • Once it reaches that color, take it off the heat and let it cool. Refrigerate it to continue to cool it for about 30 minutes. • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two half sheet pans with parchment paper. • Add the cold browned butter, flour, powdered sugar, salt, vanilla extract, and cinnamon to a food processor; process until light and fluffy. • Transfer to a large bowl. • Add the walnuts and mix with a rubber spatula until combined. • Using a small ice cream scoop, portion 24 mounds of the dough onto your prepared sheet pans, spacing them two inches apart. • Place in the freezer to cool for 15 minutes. • Bake until the cookies are firm and smell nutty and toasty, 15 to 18 minutes. Rotate the pans 180 degrees halfway through baking. • Meanwhile, place additional powdered sugar in another large bowl. • Once the cookies are out of the oven, let cool for exactly 6 minutes and 30 seconds, then toss in the powdered sugar. Enjoy!
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PHOTO COURTESY OF DUFF GOLDMAN
GREAT RESTAURANTS GUIDE
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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Our menu includes Chef Reno’s daily selection of the finest fresh Northwest seafood from our own seafood company. To highlight select seasonal favorites, a daily fresh sheet is also included in our dinner menus.
SURF + TURF \\ SEAFOOD \\ ANTHONY’S AWARD-WINNING CL AM CHOWDER
creamy New England style, potatoes, bacon
AL ASKA WEATHERVANE SCALLOPS
pan seared, sprinkled with gremolata
SEAFOOD CHOP CHOP
Dungeness crab, Oregon bay shrimp, avocado, chopped egg, tomatoes and chopped greens, fresh basil vinaigrette
N.W. SURF + TURF TOWER celebrate the best of both worlds! + SHAKING BEEF* + FRESH DUNGENESS CRAB STACK + CILANTRO POACHED OCEAN PRAWNS + NORTH ATLANTIC LOBSTER SKEWERS
SNAKE RIVER FARMS WAGYU TOP SIRLOIN*
grilled to your liking, Anthony’s steak seasoning, butter, frizzled onions, Idaho baked potato, seasonal vegetables
STEAK + SCAMPI PRAWNS*
Snake River Farms Wagyu top sirloin grilled to your liking, roasted scampi prawns, fresh lemon, gremolata
DUNGENESS CRAB CAKES
ginger plum sauce & beurre blanc
STEAMED MANIL A CL AMS
fresh tomato, red pepper, local Gem Pack chorizo, yellow onion, steamed in lobster broth, topped with gremolata
OYSTERS \\ OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL
JUMBO PRAWN COCKTAIL
homemade cocktail sauce, cucmber mignonette
ANTHONY’S CRAB STACK
PAN FRIED OYSTERS
Dungeness crab, mango, huckleberries, avocado, mango-chive oil
fresh yearling oysters, pan fried golden brown
SEAFOOD FET TUCCINE
ocean prawns, Oregon bay shrimp, Manila clams, mussels, Alaskan Weathervane scallops, vegetables, garlic cream sauce
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BOISE BURRITO
Wild salmon, potatoes, spinach, tomatoes, green chillies, & creamy chipotle.
SALADS
WILD SALMON SALAD
Salmon, spring mix, tomato, brown rice, cilantro, & avocado with a side of pomegranate glaze
QUINOA SALAD
Spring mix, quinoa, carrots, feta cheese, avocado, mandarins, cilantro and pomegranate glaze on the side.
H&G SALAD
Chicken, steak, or pork, grilled yams, romaine, cabbage, cilantro, spinach, & guacamole with a side of Salsa.
KB TACOS FAMOUS FISH
Mahi mahi, cabbage, cabo sauce, salsa in a flour tortilla with a side of limes
CHICKEN, STEAK OR PORK
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Pineapple pork, onion, radish, cilantro, & al pastor sauce served on corn tortillas
Serving grilled chicken, steak pork, mahi mahi, shrimp and Alaskan Salmon. Think Fresh. Think KBs. So Good. So Fresh. KB’s award-winning recipes are made fresh to order, with the healthiest,tastiest ingredients since 1993. The sauce is their secret! 2794 S Eagle Road 10 a.m.-9 p.m. M-Sat. • 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sun.
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Our house recipe topped with cotija cheese and Tajin. Served with tostaditas.
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Duck confit and our proprietary cheese blend. Served with pasilla sauce and guacamole.
Pork Belly and Chicharron Citrus coleslaw, agave siracha sauce, tortillas,, and salsa.
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Pumpkin seed crusted rack of lamb with potato purée and asparagus. Served with an ancho chile and tomatillo sauce.
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Fire roasted corn, lime, Tajin, cotija cheese, spicy mayo,, and popcorn.
Four tacos served with avocado, onions, queso fresco,, and pico de gallo. Presented with ancho rice and black beans.
Mexican chorizo, rajas,, and our proprietary cheese blend. Served with tortillas.
14oz. grilled New York & Maine lobster tail presented with Yukon potato purée and black beans. Served with an ancho-port wine reduction.
Queso Fundido with Spicy Shrimp Octopus Con Achiote
Tender octopus marinated with achiote spice and presented with yuca fries and chimi-pico sauce.
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Pan fried breaded beef tenderloin topped with asadero cheese and chipotle pepper. Served over chipotle angel hair pasta.
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Pescado Del Dia a La Veracruzana
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Seafood Molcajete with Plantains
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615 W. Main St. • Downtown Boise • (208)519-1213 • coadejimaboise.com
Steak and Seafood with a Latin Flair
276 Bobwhite Court • Boise • 208-338-5000 • barbacoa-boise.com
CHEF SPOTLIGHT:
CHEF ENRIQUE MARTINEZ of Barbacoa, Coa De Jima, and Coa Del Mar
By April Neale
If you’ve been to Boise, you’ve probably been to Barbacoa, the award-winning restaurant overseen by executive chef Enrique Martinez. His culinary collaborations with the Castoro family, noted restaurateurs, have spanned two states and driven the success of the flagship Barbacoa, described as Latin fusion with a tipped hat to the PNW cowboy and rancher. Now, with three restaurants under his guidance, Martinez is busier than he's ever been. He has been with the Castoros as Executive Chef since opening Ti Amo in 1994. He crossed paths with the family when he was the executive chef of Towers restaurant inside the five-star resort, The Surf & Sand Hotel in Laguna Beach, California. But the late Robert Castoro recognized his talent and brought him to their operation, first in Laguna Beach, then he enticed Martinez to come with him to Boise. "Boise was so green, beautiful, and clean. “Robert put me in charge of the kitchen. He gave me the freedom to do everything. Including Coa De Jima and the new restaurant, Coa Del Mar, coming to Eagle," said Martinez. Customers have responded in kind. Barbacoa's famous happy hour drives some of Idaho's top alcohol and food sales and is consistently packed to the rafters. Martinez smiled; he knew they did it right. "You need to make people love your food all the time, or else you don't have a job, right? When I come to the main room for a break from the kitchen, I see everybody happy, talking, laughing, and smiling, or I go outside in the parking lot; I see people walking and waiting to get a seat a half hour before we open. Barbacoa is the busiest restaurant," he laughed. Martinez is offered a blank creative slate, and he enjoys pushing the limits. "I like to change my menus every six months. Presentation, flavors, colors—I always look for different ingredients. And 16 years later, I'm happy with what we've been doing. Coa De Jima is only two years old, but I love it. I want to keep bringing some Mexican items and to be educational. So many young kids are born in the United States to Latin families, right? But they don't know about our culture. Nothing. At Barbacoa and Coa De Jima, you can talk at your table and tell your kids this is the food my parents made for me when I lived in Mexico," he said.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Family and respect define the kitchens' atmosphere; with Nikolai Castoro now running the restaurants, Martinez reflected on his connection to their family and watching the Castoro children grow up and succeed. "This is when I wished Martine Castoro had come here for this interview. I would tell her, 'Hey, you did a great job with your kids,’” he said. “Nikolai is not scared to do or try anything. Nikolai gives it his all. I follow his lead, and I treat people with respect. Here, the kitchen takes care of front-of-the-house people. We respect them." www.idahomemagazine.com
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CHEF SPOTLIGHT:
JESSICA RUDELL Chef of Tavolàta Boise
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
By April Neale
This fall, it's a proper homecoming for Chef Jessica Rudell, the new executive chef at Tavolàta in Downtown Boise, located in The Lucy apartment building across from the Basque Block. She's a hometown Boisean and Capital High School alum who left to attend a Portland, Oregon culinary school. She's thrilled to be back home after advancing her career and skills working for some incredibly tough chefs in Boston. "[Working in] Boston was always my five-year goal. That was the place I wanted to go. And I stayed with my sister and her family just outside Boston, where I spent six years. There, I worked for a couple of [notable] chefs and a few unknown chefs. But the main people for my education were Gordon Hamersley, who I spent three years working for, and then I worked for Barbara Lynch," Rudell said. In Seattle, Chef Jessica connected with restaurateur and entrepreneur Ethan Stowell of ESR, the owner of six Tavolàta doors. When she learned that Stowell was looking at Boise for his chain of upscale restaurants, she let him know. “As soon as you open Boise, I'm going back. Ethan knew Boise, and he saw it on the rise. He had friends here and some connections that gave him enough information to find the right home for Tavolàta," said Rudell. The restaurant officially opened in November of 2023. "We're primarily a pasta house, with four to five entrees, and all
generous portions including a one-pound New York strip and a double-cut pork chop, which is my favorite,” Rudell explained. “We will open with scallops, and it might be halibut, always what's in season." Rudell describes the ambiance as inclusive and inviting, a comfortable spot and an all-occasion setting, casual to festive and celebratory. "You're going to feel like you fit right in. We have two private dining rooms also. We've had weddings at our restaurants. Whatever you need it to be." Above all else, she promises the menu will dazzle the palate. "Tavolàta is about simple Italian, with ingredients kept local as much as we can, also with Italian products— truffles, vinegar, olive oil, and other ingredients from Italian purveyors—approachable, homey, familiar, and completely craveable," she said. All great meals should start with an appetizer, and Tavolàta and Chef Jessica figured out a way to combine Idaho and Italy. "A favorite is our smoked fish bruschetta, with crisp topped baguettes still soft in the middle, topped with a smoked salmon fish mix, aioli, chives, and shallots so you get a nice bite with some pickled red onions on top for a pop of acidity. We love our menu to be shareable for everybody," she said. Look for the famous house rigatoni, which Rudell said is not flashy, but one you’ll come back for. "It's the pasta that built the company, as we say," Rudell noted. www.idahomemagazine.com
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CHEF SPOTLIGHT:
EDWARD HIGGINS The Lively
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE LIVELY
By Kyley Jolna
Chef Higgins has worked and lived all over the world, including Japan, Oregon, California, Texas, Hawaii, and now Idaho. “When I was growing up [in Boston] as a child, there were large dinners with my Sicilian & Irish family…food was always central and it plays out on the plates here,” he said. In 2019, he received a call from Marc Taylor, a recruiter friend from Portland, about an opportunity consulting for a start-up. Over the holidays, Chef Higgins traveled to Boise to cook for Greg & Kari Strimple, who own The Lively. Before leaving, they asked, “Why not you [as head chef]?” Which made him stop to think…and the rest is history. According to Chef Higgins, a dish should go on a restaurant’s menu only if it relates to the chef or one of his team members in some way. Everything on The Lively’s menu reflects a story or relationship with the community. Each dish has at least one personal layer to it, whether that’s a familial experience or a relationship with local purveyors. It is the lens they are attempting to build for their customers. Chef Higgins defines his cooking as “regional cuisine,” which means that wherever he is, first there is a focus on the location and cooking with the local ingredients, and only then is a dish put through a lens. “Take Kevin [Posada] who grew up in El Salvador and moved to Los Angeles as a child where he was raised by his grandmother. He cooked at Red Bird and all of these other
great restaurants in that city and then we met in Hawaii. His story is going to play out in a different, unique way, but the framework is going to be the same [as mine],” Higgins said. The new Hamachi crudo currently on the menu at The Lively is a favorite and a reflection of Chef Higgins’s time shopping at the Tsukiji Fish Market while living in Tokyo, Japan working for The Four Seasons. Nonna’s Meatballs are another. The recipe is a combination of his mentor at Hearth Restaurant in New York City, Marco Canora’s, and his grandmother Nonna Anna’s with some interpretations, although he notes that “she would never put that much cheese because [she thinks] it is too fatty.” Chef Higgins explains that occasionally, it isn’t about being pretty. “Sometimes [a dish] isn’t aesthetically pleasing, but that's the charm.” Take, for example, the “Thanksgiving dinner” from The Lively’s current menu. “We make a perfectly roasted whole chicken–half of it actually, but we roast them whole, then we debone and roast them. It is served with mashed potatoes, and a pan gravy with local mushrooms from Groves County in a sherry jus,” he said. Higgins is also embarking on another adventure with the Strimples. A sushi restaurant called House of the Little Pig, named after the famous (and possibly the first) Italian fresco in Naples, will open in late Summer 2024 near Barber Station. Kevin Posada, from The Lively, will be head chef there. www.idahomemagazine.com
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COLIC FOOTHILLS OF IDAHO, the continuation of a family winemaking ’s by Lori’s beloved grandfather. His small re fond memories were made and long oday our family continues the tradition ue to their terroir. This is our offering of o wine. We hope you enjoy drinking it as ing it.
_ The Pasculli Family
CUSTOM TASTINGS: $15
U R B A N TA S T I N G R O O M
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rollinghillsvineyard.com • 152 E. 52nd St., Garden City, Idaho • (208) 948-3136
CHEF SPOTLIGHT:
JASPREET SINGH AND PARMINDER BHATTI of Red Fort
By Kyley Jolna
While there’s meat on the menu at Meridian’s Red Fort, Jaspreet Singh and husband Parminder Bhatti are quick to guide guests toward the vegetables. “We are all vegetarians and want to promote these dishes because they are always so [overlooked and] underrated!” Jaspreet explained. Other must-try items on the menu include the Vegetable Coconut Korma, the Mixed Vegetable Curry, and the Mali Kofta, all delicious on their own or served family-style around the table. The Red Fort is, after all, a family business. Jaspreet handles communications, and her husband is the head chef. As if to prove a point, Jaspreet’s brother, Pinder, enters through the front doors. He handles the other Utah-based Red Forts along with their father, Shamsher, and is in town visiting for the moment. Their family has been involved in restaurants for over 30 years, opening the first Red Fort location in St. George, Utah in 2018. A “typical” Indian food menu has numerous dishes to order, which can leave the customer feeling overwhelmed. “We have actually shrunk the menu from other Indian restaurants,” Parminder said. “They have a huge menu, but on ours, you can try any dish and you will love it. Whatever is on the menu is 100%!” Whether you're in Utah or Idaho, expect a consistent experience, as the menu is the same. “Growing up, my dad used to be a chef in the kitchen and would feed all of us paneer masala,” Pinder recalled. All three unanimously agreed that is the favorite dish and should be served with warm naan bread with a mango, strawberry, or rose lassi. Of course, all are on the menu. “I moved to Sandy, Utah in 2016 and they hooked me with that Paneer Masala!” Parminder added. This family is just beginning to get settled in Idaho and build relationships with local farmers and suppliers here. Nonetheless, there are already big plans for community building with Langar, a free community kitchen of a gurdwara, which serves meals to all free of charge, regardless of religion, caste, gender, economic status, or ethnicity. Jaspreet emphasized, “Cooking is in our culture. We are planning to build a temple where we can serve free food as well as collaborate with other volunteer services [here in Meridian]. There is a desire to serve our community and take care of who we are serving.” Besides its location, which is the first Red Fort in Idaho, this specific restaurant is unique for the family with its expansive outdoor space that includes a patio, a banquet, and a full bar. Plenty of room for all of the community gatherings and social meetings to come.
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAYDAY PHOTOS BY KAREN
www.idahomemagazine.com
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G i v e t h e G i f t o f B a r d e n ay D i s t i l l i n g C o . A va i l a b l e i n I d a h o L i q u o r S t o r e s .
Ginger Rum C o cktail 1 . 5 o z B a r d e n ay G i n g e r R u m .5 oz O r an g e L iqu e u r 1 oz L e m o n J u ice 1 oz Simple Syrup T w o d r o p s o f va n i l l a Shaken and served up with a d e l i c at e o r a n g e t w i s t
Distilled to Perfection & Calling for Celebration.
‘TIS THE SEASON FOR RUM BARDENAY
By Darby Tarantino
I’m never one to turn away a gorgeous craft cocktail, especially something warm and spicy during snowy winters in Idaho. But offer me rum and I’m immediately transported to the Caribbean, sipping something tropical garnished with a paper umbrella. Undoubtedly one of the great classic liquors, rum dates back to around 1650, originating from the West Indies island of Barbados and often associated with piña coladas, mojitos, warm sandy beaches, and Captain Jack Sparrow. However, the creativity surrounding the exquisitely crafted rum cocktails from local distillery Bardenay has got my attention, and I’m here to tell you, these cozy libations beckon a crackling fireplace and a snowy winter night. So buckle up and forget everything you ever thought you knew about rum. Bardenay, the nation’s very first distillery with an in-house restaurant, produces an impressive lineup of spirits to suit any palate. But their selection of rums are truly something to explore, no treasure map required. Pirate slang for cocktail, Bardenay made history on April 25th, 2000 when they served the first cocktail made with spirits crafted on-site. Bardenay is the largest purchaser of brown cane sugar in the state of Idaho because they use it exclusively as their preferred base for producing rum. According to owner Kevin Settles, brown cane sugar smells better during production than molasses or potatoes. I’m sure his restaurant patrons appreciate it! While craft spirits are at the core of their business ethos, Bardenay is 100% employee trust owned, which means that they provide retirement savings to all their employees. Settles said it’s important to have a business that gives back, and while it’s taken some time to get here, he loves being able to share the business's success with his staff and leadership team. There’s a reason many members of his staff hold decades-long employment with the company. Bardenay has three locations throughout Idaho. At their flagship distillery and restaurant, located in the historic Basque district of downtown Boise, they distill all of their rums, including an aged rum, amber rum, and my personal favorite, a ginger rum. Their Eagle and Coeur d’Alene restaurants and distilleries produce the rest of their spirits, and a fourth
Bardenay in Garden City is slated to open in November 2024. This new location will offer distillery tours and spirits tastings, along with a full restaurant for patrons to enjoy their favorite made-from-scratch dishes, all of which pair perfectly with their craft cocktails. Visit bardenay.com for more information on distillery/restaurant locations, menus, and hours of operation.
PHOTO COURTESY OF BARDENAY RESTAURANT AND DISTILLERY
www.idahomemagazine.com
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Where Wine Connects and Stories Unfold
Photos by Guy Hand
1008 W. Main Street, Boise, Idaho • 208-297-9463 • houseofwineco.com
PHOTOS BY GUY HAND
HOUSE OF WINE
By Darby Tarantino
Spend a little time drinking wine in the Treasure Valley and the name Kat House is sure to come up. This master wine maven is something of a household name in Idaho, which isn’t surprising. She’s been educating locals and wine professionals for years and is the only WSET (Wine and Spirits Education Trust, highly revered wine certifications) educator in Idaho. When rumors started circulating last spring that the Kat House would be opening the “mothership” of all things wine in downtown Boise, called (what else?) House of Wine, we couldn’t believe our good fortune! The Treasure Valley, home to the Snake River Valley AVA and sub-AVA Eagle Foothills, is undoubtedly a burgeoning wine region with new wineries, wine shops, and tasting rooms popping up on the regular. What sets House of Wine apart from the rest, though, is the elevated level of education that House brings with her, a vital necessity ensuring that Idaho’s wine country continues to grow with education at the forefront. House moved to Idaho in 2010 after completing her Master's Degree in horticulture and viticulture from the University of Washington. She opened her own wine laboratory shortly thereafter and began working as owner/enologist and wine educator for the business. Demands for her public and private wine classes continued, which led her to expand House of Wine into a much-needed wine shop and tasting space in downtown Boise. With this new endeavor, House said it’s her mission “to empower connection through exceptional wine experiences— where the wine connects and the stories unfold.” Her shop’s
layout, while not uncommon in large cities like New York and Boston, is a first for Idaho. Wine is cataloged progressively by style, rather than the typical region or varietal. Aptly named Wine Guides lead shoppers to confidently explore wines based on their palate preference, identifying choices similar to what they already know and love. If you enjoy Chardonnay, you might be guided to try a fuller-bodied white Rhône from France. Each wine in House’s shop tells a story. You’ll learn where the grapes were sourced, how the wine was produced, and the history of the winery’s family. Talk about connection! House of Wine offers unique experiences for every skill level. Reserve one of their Fundamentals of Wine courses, designed for every level of experience, or enjoy a private guided flight of the day’s hidden gem wines. Add a cheese and charcuterie pairing that supports Life’s Kitchen, a local nonprofit teaching culinary skills and more to underserved teenagers. Looking for that special occasion splurge? Check out their two temperaturecontrolled cellars brimming with rare and hard-to-find wines from around the world. Wherever you are on your wine journey, Kat and her team of seasoned Wine Guides at House of Wine are ready to help. I guarantee you’ll leave with a deeper understanding and connection to each wine you’ve encountered. Until then, drink well, love often, and stay enlightened. House of Wines is located at 1008 W. Main Street in downtown Boise. Reservations for wine classes or tasting flights can be made by visiting houseofwineco.com. www.idahomemagazine.com
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Proletariat Winery and Tasting Room in Garden City offers a welcoming, engaging wine experience with a view. We invite you to enjoy our wines alongside tasty charcuterie platters in our cozy tasting room, rooftop terrace, or pet friendly patio.
Monday: Closed Tuesday - Thursday: 1:00 to 7:00 pm
106 E. 36th Street Garden City, Idaho 83714
Friday - Saturday: 12:00 to 8:00 pm
www.proletariatwines.com
Sunday: 12:00 to 5:00 pm
(208) 344-1350
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
FROM KEGS TO CORKS Proletariat Wine Company offers sustainable sips
By Darby Tarantino
Have you been to Garden City lately? Whether you’ve taken a drive down Chinden Blvd or a stroll along the Boise River Greenbelt, there’s no denying that this quirky urban oasis has gone through a massive transformation. Now, you can find everything a foodie, Beer Buddy, or oenophile could ask for, all within walking distance! But the newest member of Garden City’s fast-growing wine scene demands a visit, and if the name sounds familiar, it’s likely because you’ve already enjoyed their extensive selection of keg wines on tap at your favorite restaurant or wine bar. Proletariat Wine Company (proletariat means workers or working-class people, regarded collectively) started in 2011 when a wine passion project among friends became a sustainable wine movement in the PNW. After many visits to Walla Walla wine country to visit friends, founding partners and Treasure Valley natives Elizabeth and Tracy Baggerly knew wine was in their future. At its conception, the Baggerlys and
partners wanted to produce exceptional yet affordable high-end wines by the glass that were produced sustainably and meant to be enjoyed on tap throughout the Pacific Northwest. Their motto is ‘All for wine, wine for all!’, after all. While keg wine has been around for decades and is often associated with the same quality as early box wine, Proletariat sought to change this misconception. When you taste their best-selling Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon blend, Prolo Red, or their delightfully crisp Pinot Gris out of the tap, you’ll see why! The majority of their fruit comes from vineyards throughout Oregon and Washington, but they have plans to purchase vineyards and source more fruit from Idaho, including their own boutique Syrah vineyard in Horseshoe Bend. The talented head winemaker Sean Boyd is a partner for the brand and also produces award-winning wines for Rotie Cellars, Proper Wines, and House of Bones, as well as XOPC Cellars, owned by Grammy award-winning singer/ songwriter Brandi Carlile. As demands
for access to their wine began to grow, the partners at Proletariat decided it was time to expand their production, bottle their wine, and select the perfect location to open their first tasting room, a place where, according to Elizabeth, ‘we can create an environment where visitors can learn about and enjoy wine in a lighthearted and fun atmosphere.’ While Proletariat was born in Walla Walla, they are settling into their new digs quite nicely. Plans to expand their hospitality program are already fast underway, so stay tuned for upcoming food and wine pairings, winemaker dinners, and soup Sundays made by their in-house chef in their expansive tasting room and private event space. In the meantime, stop in to enjoy a custom flight of their bottled or tap wine, glass or bottle service, and a house-made cheese and charcuterie board. Proletariat Wine Company is located at 106 E. 36th St. in Garden City. Visit proletariatwines.com for tasting room hours or to inquire about reservations or private events.
www.idahomemagazine.com
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LOST GROVE BREWING
Leave the Right Footprint By Darby Tarantino
With nearly 60 craft breweries in Idaho, there is certainly no shortage of frothy pints when you crave one, but finding a brewery who is B-Corp certified, certified carbon neutral, and who generously supports local nonprofits each month leaves fewer choices. Besides crafting a wide array of classic IPAs, hazy IPAs, porters, sours, and the most decadent barleywine, philanthropy has been at core of Lost Grove Brewing’s ethos since it opened in 2015. Born and raised in Boise, owner Jake Black grew up learning the values of charitable giving from his mother, who spent most of her career in the nonprofit sector and currently serves as the director of the Women’s and Children’s Alliance. Black helped start Payette Brewing in 2011 after earning a degree in restaurant hospitality, but always longed to make a larger impact and become a voice for his hometown nonprofits. When Lost Grove Brewing opened, Black started Powerful Pints, one of many charitable programs they’ve implemented to partner with nonprofits throughout Idaho. Each quarter, Black selects an organization to support, donating $2 of each pint from a designated beer. The Idaho Wildlife Foundation, this quarter’s charity, will also receive a whopping 50% of proceeds during Powerful Pints Night, where the community comes together to learn more about the featured nonprofit and continue their support. Black estimates that they’ve raised over $150k for Idaho’s nonprofits since the program started. That’s powerful indeed! Black’s plans to support the community through his philanthropic efforts are ongoing. He partnered with the Idaho Botanical Gardens to host the annual Shade City Brewfest, now entering its third year, where 50% of the event’s proceeds go to support the 42 acres of lush gardens. Always the weekend closest to Earth Day and 70s themed, Shade City Brewfest takes place on April 19-20, 2024. Lost Grove Brewing employees are also encouraged to support their community by taking a paid day off to volunteer. This initiative helped Lost Grove Brewing earn certification as a B Corporation in 2022, which means that their business meets the highest standards of performance, accountability, and transparency, including employee benefits, charitable giving, and sustainability. Lost Grove Brewing is one of only a handful of breweries in the country to hold this certification. So far, they’re Idaho’s first, continuously striving to improve their energy practices, becoming more sustainable each year by evaluating packaging concepts and recycling efforts. Black hopes that leading by example will encourage other organizations to follow suit. Lost Grove Brewing has two locations: the Lusk District in downtown Boise and their newly opened location in Hyde Park. Try their Powerful Pint of the month or grab a cocktail
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
and sample their extensive menu of beer-friendly food—their Hyde Park location has a full restaurant and bar! Don’t forget to round up your tab to the Powerful Pints charity of the month. It takes a community, and thanks to the generosity of Lost Grove Brewing, we can all do our part to make a difference and continue to leave the right footprint. Visit lostgrovebrewing.com for location details and hours of operation. www.idahomemagazine.com
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BREWERY TAPROOM 114 E 32ND ST GARDEN CITY
DOWNTOWN BEER BAR 1022 W MAIN ST BOISE
Barbarian Brewing has a unique, award winning beer selection for the traditional beer lover and the adventurous. With IPAs, German Lagers, Bourbon Barrel Stouts, Barrel Aged and Candy Sours and more, you're guaranteed to find a beer for everyone in your group. Visit us at one of our two locations!
BARBARIANS AT BOISE’S GATES Barbarian Brewing is a winter wonderland destination and activity hub for Garden City and downtown Boise. By Carolyn Komatsoulis and April Neale
At Barbarian Brewing, Boise’s beer enthusiasts have much to look forward to on the cooler days this fall and winter. Co-owner and business manager Bre Hovley and her husband James Long specialize in small batch IPAs and sours, as well as experimental and traditional beers, and host weekly beer releases on Thursday, or “Thors-day.” Long, the architect behind their brews, is an adventurous soul. His methods honor the past, but the flavor results often fly in the face of beer makers' methods. Thanks to their use of open, large rectangular coolships, wily yeasts spontaneously ferment their famous sours as the wort (mash) cools rapidly. It creates what Long has described as the “true essence of Garden City.” “By now, we’ve released 400 different recipes, I’d say, over the past eight years,” Hovley said, which she attributes to her husband’s creativity. His concoctions include a peanut butter bits ice cream brew, orange creamsicle dessert sour, and a sour gummy sour, which involved 75 pounds of sour gummy candy. “We usually have 22 Barbarian beers on draft, and then we have a selection of barrel aged bottles as well. But, altogether right now, we have 40 different beers available,” Hovley said. Among these are a nice variety of wheat beers, IPAs, lagers, and stouts that run the gamut from traditional to inventive. There’s something for everyone, which includes a growing crowd of folks. When Barbarian opened, there were maybe 15 breweries, Hovley said. But that number has nearly doubled.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BARBARIAN BREWING
Their Garden City Taproom on E. 32nd is a bustling event-filled hub. “Garden City itself…was kind of revitalizing and becoming just kind of a craft beverage corridor,” Hovley said. “We are thrilled to have moved down here. We're like 100 yards off the Greenbelt, which is phenomenal. We would have never dreamed of being able to be in this location when we first started.” If you’re looking for something beer-adjacent, check out the Wolf Pack Running Club, which is open to everyone and meets at 6 p.m. every Tuesday at the taproom in Garden City. “They are Barbarian-sponsored with some great regulars for runs and walks on the Greenbelt, and then they all meet up for a beer,” said Hovley. Events are stacked for November and December. “At our downtown Boise beer bar, music is featured every Tuesday night with the bluegrass band Tater Patch at 7:00 p.m., and that'll continue through the winter. At the brewery location in Garden City, Taproom, we have music every Thursday night, with rotating bands, usually bluegrass,” Hovley said. Foodies can look forward to Jokers BBQ as a full-time food truck to be here Wednesday through Saturdays and all through the winter. “They make really good food. And the fall winter menu isn't just barbecue. They've added gumbo, a vegan udon noodle bowl, and mac and cheese,” she said. www.idahomemagazine.com
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REVIVE YOUR VIBE AND DISCOVER A BETTER SOCIAL BEVERAGE
Sunday-Thursday: 11am-10pm Friday-Saturday: 11am-12am 5220 N Sawyer Avenue Garden City, ID 208-254-2055
karunakava
karunakava.com
TAKE A SOBER HOLIDAY “Anything But Basic” is made with Spice tea, pumpkin, maple, and half and half. PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
By M.M. Sigler
All I want for Christmas, and all holidays, actually, is a decent nonalcoholic cocktail. I want my glass filled with something sophisticated, beautiful, delicious, and, heaven forbid, good for me. Hey, Santa, is that too much to ask? Not anymore. Today, the no alcohol cocktail market is keeping pace with the number of people who are putting alcohol aside, placing their physical, emotional, and mental wellbeing in the forefront, and leaving the booze behind. And just in time, here are four thriving Idaho companies that make delightfully satisfying concoctions you can enjoy at your home holiday party or anytime. KAVA CULTURE South Pacific Islanders have used Kava to reduce anxiety and promote clarity for thousands of years. Now, you can do the same in Garden City. Karuna Kava’s owner, Ben McQueen, serves kava in traditional short round bowls called shells, with fresh pineapple wedges as a chaser to balance the thick liquid’s earthy taste. It’s a complex nonalcoholic drink because of its power to make your mouth tingle and shift your mood.
“For sure, it changes your state of mind,” he said. McQueen uses different noble kavas imported from the South Pacific Islands. Each produces its own effect, from calming to uplifting, making it the perfect holiday beverage, he said. “It fosters peace, calm, and togetherness,” McQueen said. There are plenty of options for serving and enjoying Kava because it blends well with other beverages, McQueen said. He has kava drinks on tap mixed with Idaho Kombucha and Erth Bev. switchels that are lighter and zingier “...for the Idahoan who’s not familiar with it.” Sweetened with organic honey and natural ingredients, he brews flavors like Autumn Apple, Bananas Foster, and Kava Lava Fire Cider, a kava tonic punctuated by habanero pepper. “People love the Cacao Vanilla Kelai to make hot chocolate,” he said. “It also tastes good in coffee.” The Autumn Apple can be served like hot apple cider with a cinnamon stick and cloves. If you’re feeling indulgent, top it with whipped coconut cream. And the Kava Lava gives a kick to Bloody Mary mix, he said.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Karuna Kava’s alternative social beverages.
www.idahomemagazine.com
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Eric and Sam Herrera are founders of ERTH Beverages. McQueen discovered kava when his recovery journey landed him in a Colorado kava bar. He worked there for a few years before moving to Idaho to start his own kava enterprise. Karuna opened in 2022, and the brand is now growing. In October, he opened inside Primal Coffee on the Boise Bench, transforming the popular coffee shop into a kava bar at night. “I think the need for nonalcoholic beverages is growing,” McQueen said. “It’s been gratifying and truly satisfying to have people have a similarly positive experience with this beverage that I love.”
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
Erth Beverage Co. brews up a high quality, healthy and innovative beverage experience. SWITCH IT UP Each year, Erth Bev. Co’s owners, Eric and Sam Herrera, brew up a seasonal beverage worthy of a holiday toast. This year’s Celebration Switchel is an oakbarrel aged blackberry, with apple, fir tips, orange, cinnamon, rosemary, and, of course, apple cider vinegar, sold in an elegant wax-dipped bottle.
NON-ALCOHOLIC. HONEY SWEETENED. FUNCTIONALLY FORMULATED.
ERTHBEVCO.COM 44
www.idahomemagazine.com
If you’re not familiar with switchels yet, it is an apple cider vinegar-enhanced drink that harkens back a few centuries. “It was the Gatorade of the 18th century,” Eric said. “It’s what farmhands would drink out in the field on hot summer days.” He stumbled on the recipe in a 1973 Farmer’s Almanac. Then he and Sam
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
Terri and Mike Landa, founders of Idaho Kombucha. used their skills in plant medicine, culinary arts, and biology to update the formula to feed the body and the spirit, Sam said. All ingredients are locally sourced when possible. With flavors like Spiced Pineapple and Tumeric Lemon Ginger, switchels put Erth on the map. They also make seasonal flavors, botanical sodas, and Elderflower Ginger Beer. Poured over ice with a fruity or herbaceous garnish, or just straight out of the can they satisfy.
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“Pump Up the Jam” includes fig jam, black tea, lemon juice, blackberries and Idaho Kombucha Blackberry Fig. Now, they have a new line of artisan vinegars made from their leftover juice. Soulfully Sour vinegar reflects the company’s mission of sustainability and the couple’s personal ethic “… to regenerate the Earth and help heal people,” Sam said. It hits the market mid-November. Find them at ErthBevCo.com as well as at specialty and farmer’s markets.
www.idahomemagazine.com
THE OG This year, pour a little Idaho Kombucha in your stocking—not literally, please. The locally made healthy probiotic beverage is more than good for you, it’s delicious. Idaho Kombucha is the OG of Boise’s nonalcoholic beverage community. Mike and Terri Landa founded it in 2015 after tinkering with the recipe in their kitchen for a few years.
Ben McQueen, founder of Karuna Kava. Today, IK cans are a staple in area grocery stores and farmer’s markets, and their signature truck can be found at most Boise events. They started the company after leaving their first careers, Mike as a graphic artist and Terri as the wellness manager of St. Luke’s Health System for 22 years. They distinguished their brand with a clean, refreshing drink that has an effervescence that’s not overpowering, and sophisticated flavors that eschew sugary sweetness. “There’s a lot going on in each,” Terri said. She leans into some surprising culinary touches that add nuance and depth. One of their most popular flavors, Blackberry Fig, is punctuated by anise and fennel. It’s delicious by itself poured into a wine glass or other fun barware. Try adding a few drops of IOnE Petals & Stems bitters for a dash more complexity. Or amp it up
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
Melissa Nodzu Wilson (L) and Briana Wilson (R), co-founders of Free Spirits Beverage Co.
with our featured recipe that blends fresh blackberries, fig jam (Terri finds hers at Trader Joe’s), and lemon juice. This holiday season, they are brewing up Pear Party, a blend of pear, ginger, star anise, and exotic helichrysum flowers. It will be available by mid to late November, just in time for your holiday fun.
IoNE BITTERS IN FREE SPIRITS BRAND RECIPES
FREE SPIRITS ABOUND For a most cocktail-like experience, fill your holiday glass with some Free Spirits. These powerful nonalcoholic libations are definite sippers, best served in a vintage martini class. The flavors are complex and come with a strong hit of umami that warms you to your toes. The company is owned by Melissa Nodzu-Wilson and Briana Kimball, the pair who made a mark on the beverage scene with IoNE artisan bitters, a healthful concoction that was once part of everyday life, Kimball said. “They’re what people used for health,” she said, but now they’re reduced to a bar staple. The pair wanted to remind people how to use bitters for good, rather than “mixing something that is medicinal with something that’s not.” So, they decided to literally shake things up by creating a line of grab-and-go, nonalcoholic cocktails you can shake and serve at home. Kimball is the plant medicine mixologist and Nodzu-Wilson is the packaging and marketing wizard. They started mixing alcohol-free cocktails at the farmer’s markets and at events and found that people were thirsty for their type of beverage experience. Now, they make their own shrubs, a mix of fruit, vinegar and fruit or vegetable, and oxamyls, the same idea but with honey. They brew spiced teas, rosewater, syrups and other ingredients that add layers. Kimball’s creations hit on flavor notes that satisfy, without the alcohol. Free Spirits’s campari is made of grapefruit, rhubarb, pink peppercorn, and other spices that hit the spot, then mixed with soda. She’s now working on a Mezcal, digging out the plant components that create its taste. “Plants are magic,” she said. “They do your body good.” So when you raise a glass at the holidays, you also can toast to your health.
• 2oz Spiced Tea • 1 tsp pumpkin • 1/2 oz half and half (use coconut milk if you want it to be vegan) • 1/2 oz maple syrup
Anything But Basic
Put all ingredients in a shaker with ice and pour into a rimmed martini glass. RIMMING SUGAR • 1/2 c organic sugar • 1 tsp pumpkin pie spice SPICED TEA • 2 oz cocoa nibs • 2 cinnamon sticks • 1 star anise • 4 cloves Put ingredients in a jar and pour 32oz of boiling water, allow to sit overnight, and sieve off ingredients and store tea in the fridge for up to 7 days.
Leftover Martini
(Cranberry Sauce Martini) • 2 oz rose cardamom tea • 1 oz cranberry simple syrup • 1 oz fresh lime juice Put ingredients in a shaker with ice and pour into a martini glass, serve with a lime wheel or float some fresh cranberries. CRANBERRY SIMPLE SYRUP • 2 tbsp Free Spirits Shrubbed Cranberry Sauce • 1/4 c water Boil water and cranberry sauce together to make a simple syrup, sieve off cranberries and spices and discard. ROSE CARDAMOM TEA You can buy teas at the store or use • 2 tbsp rose petals • 4 cardamom pods
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REX CHANDLER Playing the Long Game By April Neale
Rex Chandler has always valued a slower, strategic approach. Chandler, whose award-winning restaurant bears his name in Boise, Idaho, has a nearly 50-year run as an elite restaurateur. Among many accolades is the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator, fifteen years running. The key? According to Chandler, it isn’t complicated. "We have a philosophy at Chandlers and our Ling & Louis affiliates (Chandler has two franchises in Idaho). It's a triangle. We take care of our employees by training them with tools and direction. They take care of our customers, in turn, and our customers take care of the restaurant," he said. His straightforward commitment to service relies on classic techniques and training, and you probably won’t be seeing molecular gastronomy deconstructed food or ultra-exotic ingredients anytime soon. Chandler goes to great lengths to ignore the restaurant industry trends that predict a soulless, cold future filled with fewer servers and more tech gadgets for ordering food. “I think restaurants that appeal to people going out include personal service, excellent food, and an escape from harsh reality. Remember that gracious hospitality is the key to fine dining," Chandler said, noting that his employees were his greatest asset, many staying on for years. Though Chandler considers himself old school and in the business of fine dining, he knows that gracious hospitality and fine food are getting rarer. “We spend a great deal of money, effort, and time to train staff on gracious hospitality and how 48
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PHOTO COURTESY OF CHANDLERS
to serve customers correctly. And it's not being passed on to others,” he said. Chandler believes that the experience of dining out is made less through ploys like eye candy and distractions and works to provide guests with something better, even if it takes more time. But the wait is worth it. Most recently, Chandler’s patience paid off as he acquired the old, run-down Joe's Crab Shack on prime Boise River real estate. The spot, now reborn into a jaw-dropping Ling & Louie's on the water, has been beautifully restored with its classic architectural lines. Chandler had his eye on the property and made his move last June. "It's a classic site and building. I knew it as the Chart House, and almost everybody hated it when it became Joe's Crab Shack. My Ling & Louie’s franchise partner for that location was David Johnson, who bought the Riverside Hotel ten years ago,” Chandler said. The building opened in 1973 with a 50-year lease, which expired last June. Chandler and Johnson happily stepped in. “I worked to keep the intent of the architect's original design. I removed all the 'shack' and stripped it to almost bare bones. We had to dig up the floors to redo the sewer and water systems,” Chandler said, praising Johnson Hospitality for their long-term strategy. “As an independent restaurant, you couldn't afford to do what we did. The return on investment would be far too long. We exceeded the budget twice. So, it was a labor of love and a commitment to keeping the building.”
Happy Holidays During this holiday season, our thoughts turn gratefully to all those who have continued to make us Boise's premier choice for Fine Dining. This year, we're thankful for the strong bond with our community and nearly 17 years of creating memorable dining experiences. We truly appreciate your support and loyalty. Thank you and cheers to the New Year!
Rex & Mary Beth Chandler • jet-fresh seafood • usda prime steaks • premium craft cocktails • live jazz every night of the week
• Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence wine list • Treasure Valley's only Forbes Travel Guide Rated Restaurant
PR I ME STEAK S • FI NE S EAFOOD ™
Hotel 43 | 981 West Grove Street, Boise | ChandlersBoise.com | 208.383.4300
Red Fort Cuisine of India
1510 S CELEBRATION AVE • MERIDIAN, ID 208-258-3561 redfortcuisine.com 276 Bobwhite Court • Boise ••208-338-5000 • barbacoa-boise.com
