VIE Magazine January / February 2016

January/February 2016

THE

VOYAGER ISSUE

JOIN THE CELEBRATION!

Celebrating 30 Years of Good Food, Good People, and Good Times.

BUDANDALLEYS.COM

850.231.5900

DISCOVER YOUR

COASTAL LUXURY LIFE ALONG THE COASTAL COMMUNITIES OF SCENIC HIGHWAY 30A

S O U T H W A LT O N , F L O R I D A FOR MORE DETAILS AND PRICING ON THESE EXCLUSIVE 30A REAL ESTATE OFFERINGS, PLEASE CONTACT ERIN DIRECTLY AT 850.502.1220

CALL ERIN ODEN

850.502.1220 erin@coastalluxury.com

CoastalLuxury.com COASTAL LUXURY • 9961 EAST COUNTY HIGHWAY 30A, SUITE 1, SEACREST, FLORIDA 32413

SEARCH ALL COASTAL PROPERTIES ON MARKET AT COASTALLUXURY.COM/SEARCH

DISCOVER PARADISE BY THE SEA

DISCOVER 30A’S GULF FRONT

Lots 6 and 7, Paradise By The Sea Court Rare, estate-sized homesite, just one tier from the Gulf-front in prominent Paradise By The Sea

59 Auburn Drive Spanning an impressive 100 feet on the Gulf

DISCOVER THE RETREAT

DISCOVER ALYS BEACH

38 St. Lucia Lane One tier from the Gulf-front within The Retreat

20 Sea Venture Alley Direct Gulf views, one tier from the Gulf-front in Alys Beach

A P PA R E L ,

J E W E L R Y,

H O M E

AC C E S S O R I E S ,

A LY S S H O P P E .CO M

A N D

G I F T S

FI N E I N T ER IOR S A LONG TH E EM ER A LD COAST DE ST I N • WAT ERCOLOR • A LYS BE ACH • ROSE M A RY BE ACH 12870 US High way 98 West | Mir a m a r Beach, FL | bet w een Destin a nd Sa ndestin Facebook.com/Lov elaceI nter iors | I nstagr a m.com/Lov elaceI nter iors w w w.Lov elaceI nter iors.com

850.837.5563

IN THIS ISSUE:

144

72

160

62

104

137

166

FEATURE

Beyond the Eiffel Tower 166

THROUGH THE LENS

The Best Sunsets in the World: Florida’s Gulf Coast 72

¡Bienvenidos! Beauty Abounds in Southern Spain 178

A Documentation of Loss 30

VOYAGER An Artistic Retreat: Finding Beauty en Provence 22 Mind, Body, and Soul: Experience the “Other” Colorado at Gateway Canyons Resort 50 Ten Travel Apps and Websites to Use in 2016 84 The Final Frontier: Living in the Age of Space Travel 88 The Greatest Show on Earth 104 Honoring the Old and Welcoming the New 122 Postcards from China: The Huangshan Mountains 160

CELEBRATING A CENTURY OF NATIONAL PARKS Our National Treasures 130 Wonderland Wanderlust: Mount Rainier National Park 137

THE ART OF LIFE Confessions of a Radio Junkie 38 Finding the Blues in the City of Five Flags 96 COUTURE

Adventures in Yellowstone National Park 152

Cork Is Popping Out of Wine Bottles and into Your Home 114

FOR THE LOVE OF FOOD

HOME AND GARDEN

A Trip to Bountiful Ballymaloe 62

The Modern Minimalist: Chapter Two 44

A Foodie’s Desert Escape: Phoenix, Arizona 144

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 13

CREATIVE TEAM: FOUNDER / PUBLISHER LISA MARIE BURWELL Lisa@VIEMagazine.com FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF GERALD BURWELL Gerald@VIEMagazine.com

EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR JORDAN STAGGS Jordan@VIEMagazine.com CHIEF COPY EDITOR MARGARE T STE VENSON CONTRIBUTING W RITERS KELLY BE ASLE Y, SUSAN BENTON, SALLIE W. BOYLES, STEFAN DAIBERL, DALE FOSTER, L AUREN LEGÉ, PARKER MCCLELL AN, HANNAH MYER, TORI PHELPS, NICHOL AS S. RACHEOTES, MIKE RAGSDALE, ANNE W. SCHULT Z, T.S. STRICKL AND, JACOB SUMMERS, BILL WECKEL, ALLISON WICKE Y

ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY ART DIREC TOR TRACE Y THOMAS FILM CUR ATOR TIM DUTROW GR APHIC DESIGNERS RINN GARL ANGER, LUCY MASHBURN, DE VAN ALLEGRI WATKINS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGR APHERS ALISSA ARYN, KELLY BE ASLE Y, RICHARD BICKEL, NIKKI CASTLE, STEFAN DAIBERL, COLLEEN DUFFLE Y, JACK GARDNER, TODD GUSTAFSON, FANTASIA MCDANIEL, HANNAH MYER, LYNN NESMITH, SHAWN PARKER, K AY PHEL AN, ROMONA ROBBINS, JESSICA RYBARCZ YK, MICHAEL SAINT JAMES, GRACE STUFKOSK Y, JACOB SUMMERS, BILL WECKEL, DAWN CHAPMAN WHIT T Y, INVOKING MEDIA, MODUS PHOTOGRAPHY

ADVERTISING, SALES, AND MARKETING WEB DE VELOPERS MEGHN HILL, MARK THOMAS BR ANCH OFFICE MANAGER – IREL AND SHARON DUANE MARKE TING MANAGER AMANDA CROWLE Y SOCIAL MARKE TING MANAGER SUVA ANG-MENDOZ A ACCOUNT E XECUTIVES JULIE DORR Julie@VIEMagazine.com MARY JANE KIRBY Mar yJane@VIEMagazine.com DISTRIBUTION MANAGER TIM DUTROW DISTRIBUTION COORDINATOR SHANNON QUINL AN

VIE is a registered trademark. All contents herein are Copyright © 2008–2015 Cornerstone Marketing and Advertising, Incorporated (Publisher). All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without written permission from the Publisher. VIE is a lifestyle magazine and is published six times annually on a bimonthly schedule. The opinions herein are not necessarily those of the Publisher. The Publisher and its advertisers will not be held responsible for any errors found in this publication. The Publisher is not liable for the accuracy of statements made by its advertisers. Ads that appear in this publication are not intended as offers where prohibited by state law. The Publisher is not responsible for photography or artwork submitted by freelance or outside contributors. The Publisher reserves the right to publish any letter addressed to the editor or the Publisher. VIE is a paid publication. Subscription rates: Digital magazine (iPad only) – One-year $11.99; Two-year $17.99 / Printed magazine – One-year $29.95; Two-year $54.95 (U.S. Only – price includes free access to digital magazine versions for iPad). Subscriptions can be purchased online at www.VIEMagazine.com.

14 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

ON THE COVER:

Nothing says “Florida” like an awe-inspiring sunset over the water. In our hometown of Santa Rosa Beach along Florida’s Scenic Highway 30-A, that could include watching the last rays disappear beyond the Gulf of Mexico, Western Lake, or the Choctawhatchee Bay or, as seen on our cover, behind the stunning architecture of Caliza Pool in Alys Beach. There’s just something about a reflection of the colors blazing off the clouds that makes you stop and watch. We would like to thank all the photographers who submitted the breathtaking sunsets and sunrises for consideration in our feature! photo by jack gardner

PUBLISHED BY THE IDE A BOUTIQUE

www.TheIdeaBoutique.com info@theideaboutique.com USA 114 Logan Lane, Suite 4 Grayton Beach, Florida 32459 850.231.3087

IRELAND The Grain Store, Suite 1 Clifden, Co. Galway 85.158.9879

Coastal Living Magazine - Beach Cottage - Seagrove, FL

SHOW HOUSE PREVIEW The Modern Minimalist | Zen by the Bay

M

ike and Angela Ragsdale, owners and founders of the 30A brand and beloved members of our community, have embarked on a new adventure that mirrors a lifestyle they are embracing—one that is uncluttered and pure.

PARTN ERS

Following the personal tragedy of their beautiful home on the Choctawhatchee Bay being flooded and subsequently demolished, a rebirth of sorts occurred.

The Ragsdales began the process of rebuilding and realized they want to live differently: living with less so they can experience more. And so was born their new home concept that focuses on simplicity and relaxation.

Interior design: Joey LaSalle & Cassidy Lyons Pickens of Lovelace Interiors

General contractor: Hart Builders Residential design: Rolen Studio – Modern Residential

Flooring and tile: Renovation Flooring Kitchen appliances: Builder Specialties, Inc. (BSI), Destin Home automation: AVX – Audio Video Excellence, Inc. Plumbing fixtures: Ferguson

We are thrilled to follow the Ragsdales on their journey of rebirth and can’t wait to reveal their new home to our readers. Many sponsors and partners have joined them in the creation of the new home, which we’ve dubbed “Modern Minimalist – Zen by the Bay.” Mike has written a beautiful and personal story for this issue of VIE and will continue to chronicle the journey with an article in each issue leading up to the home’s big reveal, which will appear in the 2016 Architecture and Design Issue.

We are so excited to publish this family’s story and show you their new home on the bay!

Sincerely, Lisa Marie Burwell, Publisher VIE Magazine

Shower glass and bathroom mirrors: Seaview Glass and Mirror Landscape design: Terra Firma Landscapes Exterior doors and windows: Southern Windows and Doors Electrical installation: Xcell Electric Inc. Plumbing and gas installation: SSE Plumbing and Gas Contractors Insulation: Mid-America Insulation and Supply Lighting: Beautiful Lights Custom furniture: Not Too Shabby Boutique Custom window treatments: Concept Blinds & Design Home security: Planet Secure Countertops: Caesarstone and Classic Design Custom closets: Alpha Closets and Murphy Beds Inc. To learn more or to become a partner, please contact angela@30A.com.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE:

VOYAGING

REDEFINE YOUR AGE.

Adventure Seekers Explore New Horizons but Return Home

home in Northwest Florida—a place that, despite its continued rise in popularity, still feels insulated from the relative madness of the world at large.

Publisher and Editor-in-Chief, Lisa and Gerald Burwell Photo by Kay Phelan

T

he adventure of exploring and experiencing other places and cultures is part of the magic of travel, and in this issue, we’ve got a lot to ignite your spirit of wanderlust. We usher in the New Year by celebrating destinations near, far, and in between—from Ireland to France, from Tanzania to China. We here in Northwest Florida have a rich heritage worthy of exploring as well. So, we have some stories from Apalachicola to Pensacola (or, as we like to say, COLA 2 COLA®), the backyard of our publishing headquarters, as it were. Also, 2016 marks the centennial of our country’s National Park Service. To honor this hallmark, we bring you spectacular highlights from some of our national treasures, including Mount Rainer and Yellowstone National Parks. So, if your New Year’s resolution is to detach from your electronic devices, put down your tech and explore the great outdoors!

Reviewing last year, we had a very busy travel schedule that included trips to New York, Dublin, and London. Our new Irish lifestyle and travel magazine, Connemara Life (published by our satellite company in Clifden, Ireland), alone took us across the pond three times. As worthwhile (and fun) as travel is, it requires a lot of stamina and concentration. There are, indeed, many beautiful places around the world, but after all is said and done, I mostly enjoy being

Our publishing house is headquartered in a coveted Florida resort area with some of the world’s top-rated sugar-white beaches and the most gorgeous sunsets. It is also home to charming and world-renowned New Urbanist communities such as Seaside, Rosemary Beach, St. JOE’s WaterColor and WaterSound, and Alys Beach. Alys Beach may be the last to be developed, but it surely is not the least. When I first laid eyes on Caliza Pool in Alys Beach, it took my breath away. I immediately felt as if I’d been transported to a faraway Moroccan oasis. Caliza Pool was designed by Alys Beach town architects Eric Vogt and Marieanne Khoury-Vogt, a dynamic husband-and-wife team that has been recognized with three prestigious Palladio Awards for public spaces in Alys Beach: Fonville Press, Caliza Pool, and Sea Garden Walk; their design of Caliza Pool has also earned them a Shutze Award from the Institute of Classical Architecture.

Which leads to the reason for this issue’s cover image.

As we scoured all of the amazing photography from our feature articles (a normal process for us), this photo repeatedly found its way to the top of the list.

Photographer extraordinaire Jack Gardner captured all the magic, beauty, and serenity of Caliza Pool, which has become a landmark along beautiful Scenic Highway 30-A. This magnificent photo anchors our feature—spectacular Florida sunsets—found within these pages.

No matter your age, we know you want to look as young as you feel.

To learn more about our services, visit AquaMedicalSpa.com, or call us for a complimentary consultation and let us help redefine your age!

Body Contouring (CoolSculpting®) Skin Tightening & Cellulite Reduction Chemical Peels Microdermabrasion & Dermaplaning Facials Hair Removal Injectables Laser Treatments Photorejuvenation (IPL/BBL®)

We invite you to travel the globe through the pages of VIE and hope you’re inspired to put a few of these places on your travel bucket list. And, if you’ve never visited Florida’s Gulf Coast, we hope to see you soon— there’s no place like our home!

To Life —Lisa Marie

Gulf Breeze • Santa Rosa Beach Panama City Beach • Panama City • Niceville

877-231-DERM • AquaMedicalSpa.com

FRESH SEAFOOD?

One of the first questions people ask when they visit our area is “How can we be sure we’re getting fresh seafood?”

That’s an excellent question. There is a good chance that the seafood you will be offered traveled farther than you did. In the state of Florida, even though we are surrounded by water, more than 90% of the seafood sold this year will be imported from other countries.

Throughout the United States, the huge majority of seafood is imported.

Most of it is mislabeled. Frozen seafood is sold as “fresh” and imported seafood is sold as “local.” According to Oceana, 93% of fish sold as red snapper is actually some other species. 57% of tuna sold at sushi bars throughout the country is not tuna. Most of the tilapia served in this country comes from Viet Nam and Thailand and much of it is farmed in waters with sewage run-off and the source of feed is pig feces.

Harbor Docks has been selling fish through its wholesale market since 1981. We sell to markets across the United States and Canada. We also sell to select restaurants along the Gulf Coast. Harbor Docks contracts with over 100 commercial boats to insure that we have an adequate supply of fresh fish.

We invite you to dine at our restaurants – Harbor Docks, in the heart of Destin, and Camille’s, overlooking the Gulf in Crystal Beach. But we’d also encourage you to try any of the wonderful, independent, local restaurants in our area that are committed to serving Florida seafood. We know who they are, because we sell them their fish.

check our website to find out which restaurants sell certified Gulf-to-Table fish from harbor Docks Seafood market.

DES TIN , FL | 850. 837. 2506 | h a r b o r D o c k S .co m S E A F O O D & C O C K TA I L S

Snapper and Tuna stats: http://oceana.org/en/news-media/publications/reports/oceana-study-reveals-seafood-fraud-nationwide Imported seafood stat: http://www.fishwatch.gov/farmed_seafood/outside_the_us.htm Tilapia/pig feces: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-10-11/asian-seafood-raised-on-pig-feces-approved-for-u-s-consumers.html

An Finding Beauty en Provence

By Allison Wickey Photography courtesy of A. Wickey Studio

ne day in 2014, I had two visitors at my gallery—the A. Wickey StudioGallery—in Seacrest Beach, Florida.

They had scheduled a meeting with me to talk about a retreat in France, an unexpected topic. I normally meet and talk with anyone who requests a meeting because you never know what you might learn. We casually sat and talked, and I learned they wanted me to be the “talent” at an organized art retreat in Provence. What? Impulsivity had taken me to the most interesting places in life before, so I agreed, and we had five months to pull things together for a June retreat. It all sounded too good to be true.

I waited for the other shoe to drop, but it never did.

And now here I sit trying to figure out how I can possibly put this experience into words.

We arrived at a huge iron gate in front of a breathtaking stone-walled villa, and it swung open for us.

As soon as my plane touched down for a layover in Madrid, I could feel all my senses standing at attention.

The light was different. So were the trees, the color of the earth, and the people. The airport was one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever visited. Two hours later, I landed in Marseille, France, and my host, Ken Jourdan, picked me up. We headed north for two hours into Provence to the Rhone Retreat.

I hadn’t slept at all on my flights, so I napped on the drive, waking up occasionally as we wound through tiny towns and streets. In my sleepy haze, my first thoughts were that there is no way these places were real; they were just too perfect. And is that really a thousand-year-old castle on top of that hill?

Yes, people actually live there. Ken Jourdan, the proprietor, has led a life full of travel and exploration while maintaining ties to the Northwest Florida coast. Ken attended FSU, his wonderful parents reside in Seagrove Beach, and he comes back to the area frequently to take care of his clients; he is a masseur, a father, a tour guide, and a full-time caretaker of the Rhone Retreat. Ken and a few business partners bought the property, which includes the main house, cottages, and outbuildings, in 2004 with the purpose of starting a bed-and-breakfast. He has done a lot of work on the property to discreetly modernize it, as his guests there are mostly Americans.

We arrived at a huge iron gate in front of a breathtaking stone-walled villa, and it swung open for us.

It reminded me of when I used to wait back home in the beach towns of Highway 30-A for my kids’ school bus to drop them off and I would hear tourists exclaim, “People actually live here?”

After a few seasons of hosting groups and getting to know his clientele, Ken tweaked the B and B format and began cultivating a French cultural learning experience specific to each group’s needs—he even renamed the business Americans in Provence.

Whether the guests are into antiques, wine, art, exploration, or something else, Ken will curate an itinerary to fit their interests, all the while maintaining an easy, flexible schedule. The idea behind Americans in Provence is “you have the people, we have the place,” and the retreat manages the entire excursion from airport to poolside. While Ken is taking care of everyone on the property, driving to mountaintops and castleruins, and providing each guest with a massage, Chef Kim Pitchford is in the kitchen preparing authentic French culinary experiences each day.

Kim, like Ken, has ties to the Emerald Coast and has also led an interesting life of travel and exploration.

She lived in France three separate times before becoming a partner in Americans in Provence with Ken in 2013. She graduated from the French Culinary Institute (now the International Culinary Center) in New York City and did a professional internship at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris.

Kim brought her talents to Grayton Beach, Florida, in 2006 and started Dine by Design Catering, which she sold two years ago when she moved to Rhone Retreat.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 23

The cottage had exposed stone walls and floors, ivy climbing up the exterior, open windows, high ceilings, and a coolness that was still lingering from the morning.

Until I spent ten days with Kim, I was the kind of person who would be completely content if all food came in pill form so that I could just go about my day. From the moment I set foot in the main house where the kitchen was located, my thoughts about food as art began to change. When we arrived from the airport, it was noon and I was half asleep.

I walked into the timeless main house—formerly a church school—full of natural light from its eight-foot windows. I sat at a beautiful weathered harvest table arranged with a bowl of fresh cherries, assorted cheeses, a baguette, freshly sliced tomatoes, and a carafe of rosé. It was a perfectly casual, everyday French lunch, and I knew I had found my people.

After nibbling and drinking a couple glasses of wine, I was led to my cottage, which was my hundredth “People actually live here?” experience of the day.

The cottage had exposed stone walls and floors, ivy climbing up the exterior, open windows, high ceilings, and a coolness that was still lingering from the morning. I went to sleep and woke up eight hours later around ten o’clock at night. Traces of the sunset were still visible, and I dozed back off thinking, “I’ve been here for twelve hours, and I’ve 24 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

already seen enough amazing things that, if I went home now, I would be satisfied.”

I spent the next couple of days collecting art supplies for myself and the four American guests who had signed up to attend the art retreat I was recruited to lead. I had no idea what to expect, but I have taught workshops and so was all set to discuss topics like not being afraid of failure and letting go of control, just in case we had time to kill while paintings were drying. When we weren’t preparing for the guests, I took off on foot around the nearby sloping village of Gaujac—population under a thousand—in the foothills of the Alps. Atop the nearest “mountain” were some Roman ruins. I made it my mission to walk the steep trail to those ruins as often as possible, taking in the view of the rolling landscape dotted with tiny ancient villages and working off all the croissants and the salt-infused butter.

One of my best friends from Florida later arrived to enjoy the retreat and to help out; one of the first things she said upon arrival was “Are you kidding me?” It sums up how lucky we felt to be in such a place. She instantly found herself at home in the

kitchen assisting Kim, and I did some last-minute preparations around the property, gathering fresh flowers and sweeping the winding trails between the cottages and gardens.

Finally, our guests arrived! Weather had caused some travel glitches in the United States and there was an unfortunate luggage situation, but the guests settled in and we all got to know each other. Each of my four students was an artist in her own right and each had her own style. They were all friends who circulated among the art festivals in the southern United States. The “ringleader” was a contemporary landscape/abstract artist from Birmingham, Alabama, named Vicki Denaburg. I had actually met Vicki through friends about four years ago. She heard about the retreat and gathered three of her friends— Leatha, Lauren, and Emily—to come along.

Leatha Frost is a real Southern lady to the core. I wondered what she would think of my less-thanladylike personality. Ultimately, we adored each other, and I loved watching her blossom on this much-needed retreat. Her work is beautiful and graceful, just like her.

PATIO DEPOT

Pat i o D e Potof D e s ti n . c om Lifetime Warranty • Weather proof Wind Resistant • UV protected Surgical grade stainless steel hardware

763 Harbor Blvd., Suite 5 Destin, FL

Next to Old Time Pottery • (850) 654-7227

2078 Hwy. 98, Santa Rosa Beach, FL

Next to Publix on Hwy. 98 • (850) 267-1153

Nashville artist Emily Little is best described as a joyful, effervescent spirit, and her work reflects her perfectly. We witnessed Emily creating her first-ever landscapes, and she was a master! Her personal style and positive attitude are arts in themselves.

Lauren Dunn, also an artist in Nashville, embodies the phrase “still waters run deep.” This was her first trip to Europe, and her bag didn’t arrive until two or three days after she did, but she held it together! Her work is amazing and flows through intuitive pops of color and shapes. All the while, she remains calm and collected. I “won” one of her pieces at the end of the retreat and consider it a treasure.

All our backgrounds and personalities ran the spectrum, and from the beginning I knew it would be an interesting experience.

The travelers needed a day of leisure and, with typical Ken and Kim precision, one of many perfect days started with a sightseeing stroll and a mouthwatering picnic near the Roman ruins. Later, we took a dip in the pool, and at nine o’clock we sat down outdoors under candlelight for our first group dinner. Kim quickly became everyone’s new favorite person.

Her meals were always elegant but never snooty.

She used seasonal vegetables and fruits, along with hand-rolled pasta, and she did magical things that I can’t begin to explain.

Our little village was smack in the middle of wine country and in every direction there were vineyards, 26 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

so our wine knowledge and intake were also ramped up; we floated around Provence with permanent smiles on our faces, soaking it all in.

Every morning we would trickle into the kitchen or the outdoor kitchen, sip coffee and talk, and usually fit in a walk to the ruins or nearby village before starting our daily artistic and cultural adventures. Every day Ken and Kim had a destination planned for us to visit, including an unbelievable French market and a gourmet picnic within the walls of a former Pope’s castle, and in the afternoons we painted.

I decided to start the workshop by teaching the students how to construct a frame using a chop saw, glue, and nails. We were very fortunate to have a renowned wood sculptor living down the street, and he gave us access to his exquisite studio to do some initial woodcutting. We took our lumber and headed back to one of the retreat’s courtyards to finish frame construction under a huge willow tree. The workshops lasted for about two hours each afternoon, depending on everyone’s moods and the day’s travel plans.

Days spent with the group included learning each other’s techniques and styles, as well as bonding over leisurely meals and stories about our families and work. The beauty of the Rhone Retreat is having the ability to spend time with a group while also having the freedom to enjoy solitude in your own corner of the property. Everyone is free to come and go as they please and to paint or not. Every night at dinner the

Project Designer: Lindsay Miller & Karen Kearns of Lovelace Interiors

question “What was your favorite part of the day?” came up, and without fail there would be a silence and a slow realization that we each loved every single thing we did and saw; we could never come up with a favorite. Ken is an expert on the area and its history, and once he got a read on our group, he tailored our day trips to match the level of adventure he knew we wanted.

From cool mornings to dazzling sunsets, we were wowed by our surroundings and all began painting our versions of the sights we had seen.

From cool mornings to dazzling sunsets, we were wowed by our surroundings and all began painting our versions of the sights we had seen. We had our main paint studio in and around one of the property cottages, and we each set up our own little studios.

After I taught the group members the steps to my technique, they began to crave the supplies they use at home to best re-create the landscapes and architecture, so they grabbed more supplies and off they went! Each artist had different techniques, tools, color palettes, and inspirations. All of us experimented with tools, colors, and subjects we had never before tried and learned so much from watching each other.

On the last day of the retreat, we had an impromptu exhibit. We dressed up and invited a few people from town to the property for a cocktail hour. There was a slight language barrier, but after exchanging smiles and with the help of translations by Ken and Kim, we felt we had sufficiently impressed our attendees as we sat down outside under the candlelit arbor for our final dinner together. By this time, we had all surrendered to the salt-infused butter on flaky baguettes, and we dived into Kim’s meals as if they were the answer to all ills. Our dinners were always hours long, and the only things that peeled us away from the table were complaints that our faces hurt from laughing too much.

We left the retreat buzzing from everything we saw, felt, and tasted. Every sense was still heightened, and I wondered how long it would last once I settled back in to normal life at home. It’s been almost five months since the retreat, and recently most of our group was able to meet for an evening at the beach.

We laughed and retold stories and other “What happens in Gaujac, stays in Gaujac” anecdotes until our faces hurt again. The consensus is that it was a trip of a lifetime and marked different important personal firsts for all of us. Ken and Kim have massaged the Rhone Retreat into the perfect backdrop for creating art, memories, and friendships. Like they say, “Once you Gaujac, you always go back.”

Beach Blinds draperies & More Serving the Beaches & Beyond

Roman and Natural Woven Shades Plantation Shutters • Custom Draperies • Designer Wallcoverings Motorized Treatments • Solar Shades Custom Bedding & Pillows

now located at the crossings at inlet Beach 13123 US Hwy 98E, SUitE A, inlEt BEAcH, Fl 32413 Destin: 850.543.4424 inlet Beach: 850.502.5401

30Avenue

DESIGN WORTH WAITING FOR...

AWAKENING Change Inspiration Creativity Energy DESIGN SERVICES

Antiques • Rugs • Art • Lighting • Gifts • Stone Mantels

BOUTIQUE AND STUDIO 30AVENUE 12805 US Highway 98E , Suite Q101 Inlet Beach, Florida 32413

(850) 231-4844 • www.DesignontheGulf.com

30 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Lss A Documentation of

By Anne W. Schultz Photography by Richard Bickel

Hands punching out from the foreground of black-and-white photographs pull viewers into the

world of the oystermen, shuckers, fishermen, and dockworkers of Apalachicola, Florida—one of the last working waterfronts in America. It is unlikely that visitors will run into one of these hardworking guys on the town streets. It is more likely they will savor the quality oysters the workers harvested by hand at one of the local eateries, such as the Owl Cafe, served up with hot sauce and lemon slices. These seafood harvesters are largely invisible, working outdoors behind the scenes in grueling conditions to bring us the freshest seafood possible.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 31

“It’s the Gulf Coast of old— fiercely independent people with a strong work ethic.”

32 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

I

nternationally respected photojournalist Richard Bickel makes these workers highly visible in a stunning collection of photographs assembled in his gallery in downtown Apalachicola’s historic district. “Photography is more for the common man because it captures life,” Bickel says. “It stops people and brings them in. You can’t politely stare at a person for a long time, but you can stare at a portrait and then you see the soul. My portraits are environmental, as I show the weathered boats and bay or marshes surrounding them. It says, ‘This is his life.

He depends on this.’ It adds a little mystery that makes the viewer wonder about the person—‘What are they all about? Where do they like to hang out?’”

It is the telling details, little clues that Bickel sprinkles around, that make the subjects come alive to the viewer. It is obvious these aren’t the lily-white, manicured hands of men fingering computers in air-conditioned offices from nine to five. They are the rough, calloused, weather-beaten hands of those accustomed to hauling around sixty-pound burlap sacks bulging with oysters. The layer of dirt caked under the fingernails of those gripping oyster tongs shows the viewer that this is a grimy business. It is hard to imagine these strong, rugged individuals confined by the cramped cubicles of an office when they enjoy the immense sky as a ceiling and endless coastal vistas as surroundings. These are workers who take their directions from the wind and tides rather than from a boss.

“It’s the Gulf Coast of old—fiercely independent people with a strong work ethic,” says Bickel. “People who have little but the sea to rely on for their livelihood and for the dignity that livelihood provides.”

He may be chronicling a vanishing breed and the loss of a Gulf Coast tradition and way of life passed down through families for generations as the source of their incomes—the Apalachicola Bay—collapses around them.

Bickel discovered this bay and the sleepy fishing village of Apalachicola in 1995 while on assignment for a magazine article about Northwest Florida. He moved from the cloudy skies of Pittsburgh down to the sunny Gulf Coast to capture the richness of a culture he cherishes. “It was a true working-class waterfront—with the fish-guts smell, the rickety docks, the handmade boats,” Bickel relates in an interview with the Tallahassee Democrat. “It was very textured. It reminded me a lot of the docks in Burma

and Thailand, and those are some of my favorite places in the world.”

Fueled by curiosity and a passion for travel, Bickel has traipsed the globe—visiting seventy countries so far—shooting images for such prestigious publications as the New York Times, National Geographic Traveler, Condé Nast Traveler, and Newsweek. On the international scene, his work has appeared in the Times of London and on the Italian national public television network. On assignment for the German newspaper Die Zeit, he photographed the BP oil spill recovery on Apalachicola Bay. He has also published two coffee-table books—The Last Great Bay: Images of Apalachicola and Apalachicola River: An American Treasure—to keep the spotlight shining on these globally significant waterways.

“So many tourists come to the Florida Panhandle only for beaches and don’t know a thing about the bay and its importance to the Florida economy as well as the tourist experience,” Bickel shares in the same article. “It really is one of the top five ecosystems in the world.”

Like the seafood workers Bickel photographs, the Apalachicola River is largely invisible to most visitors, even though it feeds one of the most productive estuaries in the northern hemisphere. Because it’s the only river in Florida originating in the mountains rather than the Coastal Plain, it makes Apalachicola Bay Florida’s richest estuary in detritus and minerals.

That accounts for trophy-sized catches and explains why the Apalachicola oyster is prized worldwide for its succulence and sweet, briny flavor.

This epic river begins as the Chattahoochee River in the Blue Ridge Mountains of northern Georgia.

The river cascades down the mountainside, flowing on to the Florida–Georgia border where it merges with the Flint. The union of these two rivers forms the Apalachicola River, which flows for 107 miles on to the estuary and the Gulf of Mexico. For the first twenty miles, it flows along the edges of the Tallahassee Red Hills between massive bluffs “where wooded ravines line the eastern edge and its lower banks are studded with ancient limestone outcrops that were laid down eons ago when the sea level was much higher,” Gil Nelson describes in his book Exploring Wild Northwest Florida. The river area is estimated to be some thirty million years old, with ancient, rare plants preserved in steep ravines of tributaries flowing into the river from the east.

“No other river valley near the Gulf of Mexico, not even that of the mighty Mississippi, holds so many northern plants from times long past,” explains D. Bruce Means in Priceless Florida, a book he coauthored with Ellie Whitney and Anne Rudloe. “Out of thirteen hundred plant species growing here, one hundred and twenty-seven are considered the very rarest in North America. Several of the tree and shrub species resemble those in similar ravines in Eastern Asia.

A few mosses and ferns that grow in the protected understory also grow in Mexican tropical cloud forests.”

Leaving higher elevations, the gradually descending river yawns widely into an immense, fifteen-mile floodplain of wetland habitats that include hardwood forests, dense swamps, cypress backwaters, open waters, and both freshwater and brackish marshes populated with an enormous diversity of life. The highest biological density of amphibians and reptiles in North America—more than forty species of amphibians and eighty species of reptiles—flourishes in this river system.

At sea level, the river pours into the Apalachicola Bay; it reigns as Florida’s largest river by water volume.

Freshwater fills the shallow basin and then overflows into the eastern Gulf of Mexico, providing 35 percent of its freshwater. The freshwater extends into the Gulf for some 250 miles.

Large amounts of freshwater allow estuary inhabitants to savor long periods of low salinity that keep predators away. That’s especially critical for the survival of the oyster beds that cover half the bay’s mud floor, as the oyster drill—the oyster’s worst enemy—can’t live in freshwater. Salt water and freshwater blend into a precise formula—a mother’s milk loaded with nutrients and minerals specifically designed to feed billions of marine organisms that thrive in this coastal nursery.

Besides providing 10 percent of the nation’s oysters and 90 percent of Florida’s, the estuary also nourishes the state’s most popular eating and game fish such as grouper, snapper, shrimp, and blue crab. These species lure in recreational fishermen and support a $6.6 million seafood industry in the northern Gulf of Mexico. An adequate flow of freshwater is a major factor in its ability to recover from various stresses.

“Apalachicola Bay is taking a long time to recover from a 2012 collapse that also severely damaged the local economy,” reports Margie Menzel in an article for the News Service of Florida. “The bay buckled in 2012, 34 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

The bay was declared a federal fishery disaster in 2013—and two years later, hardly anyone is making a decent living there.

䌀 刀 䔀 䄀吀 吀 吀 吀

倀䔀刀匀伀吀䄀䰀吀娀䔀䐀 when a lack of freshwater combined with a historic drought and a tropical storm to produce the lowest flows in 89 years. The bay was declared a federal fishery disaster in 2013—and two years later, hardly anyone is making a decent living there. Also, Florida is locked in a legal battle with Georgia to try to force the release of more freshwater into the bay from the Apalachicola-Chattahoochee-Flint river system, which originates in Georgia.”

䴀 伀 䐀 䔀 刀 刀

吀吀吀䔀刀吀伀刀匀 䘀伀刀 ㈀㈀ 夀䔀䄀刀匀

“When oyster harvesting was at its peak, harvesters could earn more than a thousand dollars a week,” says fifth-generation harvester Philip Vinson in a Tampa Bay Times article. The article cites an example of the oyster shortage with Lynn’s Quality Oysters, a thirtyyear-old local business that used to take in up to 150 sacks of about 240 oysters a day. “Now we are lucky if we get five,” adds owner Lynn Martina.

“This is not a political issue,” says Bickel. “It’s common sense and it’s common decency. It’s something God has given us. Let’s not lose it.” In his encyclical Laudato Si’: On Care for Our Common Home, Pope Francis reminds us that it’s also a spiritual issue. He challenges all people, not just Catholics, to be caretakers of the earth. The pope stresses that the environment has to be understood in terms of the “intimate relation between the poor and the fragility of the planet” and “the conviction that the whole world is intimately connected.” Bickel practices stewardship through his photography, his two books, and his steadfast support of Apalachicola Riverkeeper, a nonprofit environmental advocacy organization located a few blocks from his gallery.

嘀䤀匀䤀吀 伀唀刀 䴀伀䐀䔀刀一 䤀一吀䔀刀䤀伀刀 䐀䔀匀䤀䜀一 䌀䔀一吀䔀刀 ㄀㈀㄀㜀 洀攀爀爀爀搀 䌀漀爀猀琀 爀爀爀眀爀眀 簀 椀爀爀洀爀爀 䈀攀爀挀栀

椀搀洀漀搀攀爀渀椀渀琀攀爀椀漀爀猀⸀挀漀洀 㠀㔀 ⸀㈀㘀㤀⸀㄀㘀㤀㤀

Carl Coleman fine art

“The Apalachee Indians deemed these waters sacred.

So does the Apalachicola Riverkeeper,” reads the organization’s mission statement. “And just as these Native Americans passed this treasure to us, we are determined to preserve it for future generations.”

“Apalachicola Riverkeeper is a member of the Waterkeeper Alliance, founded by Robert F. Kennedy Jr. in 1999,” says Shannon Lease, Apalachicola Riverkeeper’s executive director. “Since that time, the Waterkeeper Alliance has evolved into a worldwide environmental movement with more than 250 Waterkeeper organizations protecting rivers, lakes, and coastal waterways on six continents. The mission of Apalachicola Riverkeeper is to restore, protect, and preserve the Apalachicola River and Bay. We are a fourteen-hundred-member organization made up of citizen advocates who work together to address the river’s major challenges: the reduction of life-sustaining freshwater flows, the loss of floodplain and wetland habitats, the degradation of water quality, and unmanaged growth and development. These are threats not only to our waterways, but also to our local and state economies.” As Riverkeeper Dan Tonsmeire puts it in the article by Menzel, “What we’re seeing is that the seafood industry is collapsing with the ecosystem.”

ORIGINAL CUSTOM PAINTINGS BY CARL COLEMAN FIND US ON FACEBOOK AT PAINTINGS BY CARL COLEMAN

850-687-6041

Apalachicola Riverkeeper is a founding member of the Apalachicola-Chattahoochee-Flint Stakeholder

(ACFS) initiative, a multistate partnership group established to develop a plan for the equitable allocation of the water shared by Georgia, Florida, and Alabama. All three states claim the waters in the ACF river basin. The stakeholder group remains focused on this goal despite the fact that Florida’s governor filed an original action in the Supreme Court against the State of Georgia on September 2013.

Whether we recognize it or not, we all share a common bond with the workers Bickel documents.

No matter our economic or social status, our political affiliation, or our occupation, we all depend on natural resources for survival. If we look at nature with eyes of love and see it as a gift from God instead of as a commodity to be exploited for profit, we will see God’s glory shining through and be impassioned to care for it. The choice is ours.

Apalachicola Riverkeeper relies on donations from individuals to continue its stewardship of the Apalachicola River and Bay. To help in the efforts to save these national treasures, visit www.apalachicolariverkeeper.org or call (850) 653-8936.

Check out more of Richard Bickel’s photography at www.richardbickelphotography.com or stop by his Apalachicola gallery at 81 Market Street.

Remember the time we found the perfect little beach town?

Make your perfect vacation memories in Mexico Beach, Florida.

Discover a place to remember and request a free Visitor’s Guide at MexicoBeach.com.

confessions of a

RADIO JUNKIE

BY NICHOLAS S. RACHEOTES ILLUSTRATIONS BY LUCY MASHBURN •

I

magine you are in a meeting of the support group Listeners Anonymous. You might hear something like this: “Hello, my name is … and it’s been fifteen minutes since I scanned the dial for a decent song.” This is the tragic story of my failure to recover from the illness known in medical circles as “radio hyperactivity.”

It manifests itself as an irrepressible craving for broadcast sound—AM, FM, Internet streaming—it makes no difference; it has nearly ruined every human relationship I’ve had.

The whole thing began when I was eight and was sharing a bedroom with my three-year-old brother. Between our big-boy beds was a DuMont or Philco tabletop radio. It was gorgeous with its illuminated dial, those gold-on-black numbers spanning the distance between 530 and 1600 kilohertz. That a record player for 78s was built into its top wasn’t important to us. We also didn’t care that it was constructed of more oak than the paneling in the bar of the best hotel. What

mattered most was that we could fall asleep to The Lone Ranger, Dragnet, or the Stan Freberg variety show as the last days of radio network drama and comedy were drawing to a close.

We thought we were getting away with something.

I tried to turn the volume up just loud enough for both of us to hear but low enough for our parents down the hall not to notice. It never worked.

Down to our door would come the clomp, clomp of Dad’s footsteps and the chilling interrogation, “Aren’t you guys asleep yet?” Snap went the dial, and a curtain of darkness fell on another episode of Yours

This is the tragic story of my failure.. to recover from the illness known in.. medical circles as “radio hyperactivity.”

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 39

Truly, Johnny Dollar. If I felt really brave, I’d listen to my little brother who never got spanked, and I would stealthily go for a second act. The consequences of this transgression were too dire for me to recount here.

Then came the revolution in two stages: rock ’n’ roll and the Japanese transistor radio. The new music needs no explanation, but the transistor might. A little bigger than a deck of cards and covered in leather-like plastic, sometimes even with its own earphone, the transistor was custom made for undercover listening. Oh, the guilty pleasure of it all: late-night baseball play-by-play announcers from hundreds of miles away heard in the wee hours, switching quickly away from news to keep the music flowing. But the parental unit soon smartened up. Every time I wanted an advance on next week’s allowance for batteries, they would ask, “Why are you going through them so quickly?”

Have I forgotten to mention my penchant for radio hooliganism? Across AM and FM, the goal was to get two or more jocks who took requests on separate stations to play the same tune at roughly the same time. The bandits of the broadcast band knew this as a “blanket.” Even today, I fantasize about posing as a socialist and evoking a rant from a right-wing “opinionator” on a talk show or about straining the politeness of a National Public Radio hostess with a dose of Tea Party dogma. Forget sports talk; eliciting a shouting match from that corner of radio heaven isn’t even a challenge.

Today, things have gotten so much worse for us audio addicts. Hundreds of stations are bouncing from the satellite to the car. Hundreds more are in my computer favorites. I’ve become my own DJ with a few programmable sites.

Earbuds have widened my auditory canal. High-quality, ambient noise-killing headphones have created noticeable indentations on both sides of my noggin.

There’s a radio in the office and in every room of the house, including the bathroom.

Won’t somebody help?

Wait, my tickler file tells me that a Brahms symphony is being featured at nine; no, there’s a rebroadcast of Springsteen live in Jersey. How about a recording of the Grateful Dead from an old concert in Atlanta? Jazz from the Village Vanguard in New York? I have it! I can watch Monday Night Football while listening to the radio play-by-play.

This is your radio junkie, signing off and tuning in.

Nick Racheotes is a product of Boston public schools, Brandeis University, and Boston College, from which he holds a PhD in history. Since he retired from teaching at Framingham State University, Nick and his wife, Pat, divide their time between Boston, Cape Cod, and the Western world.

“A brand name is more than a word.

It is the beginning of a conversation.”

— Lexicon

Let’s start talking.

(850) 231-3087 • theideaboutique.com

Turquoi prit of h sharp p

She rais beautifu as the

It was the sky

Turq culpri the sh

She r beaut as th

It w the

T cul the

Sh bea as

I th

aqua c , l a e oidin r e v a h t e y l e l h u t f e o r t a c n r w e a g dr d forefin n a b m u h t ise Skye: She was r e h between it d e s s e r a c e h her pain, s iled m s e h s , g in t in point. u refully sq a C . n u s e h t f o uoise re n q io r t u c e T ir . s d s e a l h t g e in h t hrough t g in k o o sed it to the sky l y b y l p genius. e im r s u y p k s n a e h h t t s s in e l e othing n e t a e r ul color chang c o t d e id tly coll n e g e in h s n she tho u e s ik f l e b e rays o if l d l hat wou W ! r o l o c e it r o her fav y l e iv it s o p , y l e s absolut uzy S – ? ? e is o u Picking q . r s u s t a l g e h t y were f o r ua colo q a , l a e r e h t ly a e l u e f e h r t a c o t r e n g w a in f r e d r was and fo b m u h t r e h n quoise Skye:She e e d it betw e s s e r a c e h s , in it of her pa mile s e h s , g in t in u harp point. q refully s a C . n u s e h t f o n quoise io r t u c e T ir . s d s e a l h t g e in h t y sk through g in k o o l y raised it to the b ius. y n l e p g e im r s u y p k s n a e h h t t ge in ing less h t o n e t a e r c o tiful color chan t llided o c y l t n e g e in h s she t e ik l e b e if l he rays of sun d l u hat wo W ! r o l o c e it r o Teli yl ehe•r Lfai vg h t i n g • M o s a i c s iv it s o p , y l e t was absolu uzy S – ? ? e is o u q . Picki r s s u t a l g e h t f sky were o r o qua col a , l a e r e h t e e h t carefull to r e n g w a in r f d e r s o f a w d e n h a thumb r e h n e e w Turquoise Skye:S t e b it caressed e h s , in a p r e h lprit of , she sm g in t in u q s e sharp point. y l l u f un. Care s e h t f o n quoi io r t u c e T ir . s d s e a l h t g e in h t y k he s through g in k o o l y b y he raised it to t l p e geni im r s u y p k s n a e h h t t s s in e l e g g an nothin e t a e r c o t autiful color ch d e id l l ently co g e in h s n u e sh s ik f l o e b e if l d l s the rays u o What w ! r o l o c e it r o v y her fa l e iv it s o p , y l e t u Circle, Santa Rosa Beach, FL 32459 850.213.0000 • Q-tile.com It was absol 17 Uptown Grayton Suzy – ? ? e is o u q r ickin u P t . e s s a l g e h t f he sky wer o lor ethereal, aqua co ya

THE MODERN MINIMALIST Zen by the Bay CHAPTER TWO

By M I K E R A G S D A L E Architecture and renderings by ROLEN STUDIO Photography by ALISSA ARYN PHOTOGRAPHY

44 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

MIKE AND ANGELA RAGSDALE, FOUNDERS OF THE 30A COMPANY, LOST THEIR BAY-FRONT HOME IN SANTA ROSA BEACH, FLORIDA, DURING A FLOOD IN APRIL 2014. THIS IS THE SECOND INSTALLMENT IN A FOUR-PART SERIES OF VIE ARTICLES CONCERNING THEIR FAMILY’S REBUILDING PROCESS. THE RAGSDALES’ NEW HOME WILL BE FEATURED IN VIE’S 2016 ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN ISSUE (MAY/ JUNE) AND IN A SERIES OF FEATURES ON 30A.COM. I used to rule my world from a pay phone And ships out on the sea But now times are rough And I’ve got too much stuff Can’t explain the likes of me (Jimmy Buffett, “One Particular Harbour”) “Shipping containers?”

“Yes,” I beamed with confidence.

“You mean like those big metal boxcar-looking things?” she asked.

“Yes, boxcars. Exactly.”

pages of visually stunning homes constructed from discarded metal shells.

Even before the flood, I had been reading books on how to simplify one’s life by focusing on what really matters—travels and experiences—rather than material possessions. Titles such as Vagabonding by Rolf Potts, The Art of Non-Conformity by Chris Guillebeau, and Simplify by Joshua Becker were usually within my reach. Yet, because I was still mentally shackled to all of the things we’d hoarded over the years, these authors’ real-world recommendations read more like abstract theories to me.

“But now times are rough, and I’ve got too much stuff . . .”

“And . . . we would . . . live in it?”

This might be harder than I thought.

After our Santa Rosa Beach home was flooded during a “two-hundred-year storm event,” we discovered that its aging walls were infested with mold, rot, mildew, and other coastal unpleasantness. Ultimately, we demolished our family home, and we then faced the daunting task of starting from scratch on a muddy bayfront canvas. In keeping with my time-tested financial intuitions, we had purchased our home at the very pinnacle of the housing market, so we’ve been underwater ever since—metaphorically at first and then physically when the rising floodwaters unceremoniously ushered us out the front door in the middle of the night.

“People are doing all sorts of really innovative things with shipping containers,” I said to my unconvinced wife, Angela, while flicking through Pinterest

Like a tidal surge that abruptly changes the landscape of an entire region, the flood forced us to simplify. It was no longer a philosophical goal; it was a financial mandate. Like an unplanned baptism, the water had washed away many of our possessions, leaving us shell-shocked yet optimistic about starting anew.

While the waters receded, we called our friend Kristi Stevenson of Hart Builders. Kristi had always been

CONCEPT B LI N D S & D E SI G N

Smart Design Matters

Custom Window Fashions Re side nti al and Commer ci al D e stin t o P anama Ci ty and Su r r oundi ng Ar eas Drape s • D r aper y Har dwar e Rom an Shades • Wov en Wood Sh ade s • S hutter s • B linds Cu s tom Bed Linens and Pillows

850.797.6819

www. co nc e p tb l i n d s an d d e s i gn

Working to Create Comfort and Beauty for Your Home or Business

there for our family, day or night. The AC dies smack-dab in the middle of a sweltering summer afternoon? Call Kristi. Faulty flashing causes the chimney to leak? Call Kristi. She’d always been there to help whenever we were in over our heads.

“We’re in over our heads, Kristi,” I said. “Way over.”

After hearing of our midnight plight, Kristi promised us that we could build a nice home on our budget.

“We’ll make it work,” she said reassuringly.

In the weeks and months that followed, Kristi became our most valuable ally, waging war like a smartphone Spartan to keep us on track and on budget.

DESPITE THE FACT THAT THIS WAS GOING TO BE A UNIQUELY CHALLENGING PROJECT, KRISTI AND HER BUSINESS PARTNER THOM GRANT NEVER MADE US FEEL BAD FOR NEEDING TO “KEEP IT SIMPLE.”

Thom Grant and Kristi Stevenson 46 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

In time, my crazy notions of living in a boxcar concoction receded. Ultimately, I didn’t want to be “that guy.” You know, the guy they discovered baked alive inside a 225-degree metal box one August afternoon, or the guy they found quietly weeping atop a large pile of rusty rubble after just a few years of salt-air corrosion. “No, you don’t want to use shipping containers,” local builders would warn others in the future.

“You heard what happened to that guy, didn’t you?”

We decided to leave such architectural adventures to those who don’t break out in hives upon entering Home Depot.

Despite the fact that this was going to be a uniquely challenging project, Kristi and her business partner Thom Grant never made us feel bad for needing to “keep it simple.” Perhaps they could sense our desperation, or perhaps they saw our vision. Either

Ed Rolen

RUG ISLAND RUGS & INTERIORS

AS WE STOOD WITH ED, THOM, AND KRISTI UPON THE DUSTY REMAINS OF OUR RECENTLY DEMOLISHED HOME, I SKETCHED OUT A RUDIMENTARY FLOOR PLAN ON A SCRAP OF PAPER. way, we knew in our hearts that Kristi and Thom were the ones who would one day bring our family back home.

We also called several local architects to see who was best equipped to design the simple yet modern home that we envisioned.

Again and again, the name Ed Rolen of Rolen Studio came up.

“You mean the guy who’s always doing those crazy kitesurfing jumps out on Grayton Beach?” I asked.

Yup, that’s him. And people told me this project had Ed’s name written all over it.

They were right. While Ed designed sleek modern homes in other parts of the country, he had yet to find someone here in South Walton who craved the clean, simple lines that run through his portfolio. In Ed, we saw the perfect combination of vision, talent, and passion. In us, I think Ed saw an opportunity to nudge our community’s architectural style in a bold, new direction.

As we stood with Ed, Thom, and Kristi upon the dusty remains of our recently demolished home, I sketched out a rudimentary floor plan on a scrap of

Fashionable rugs in all styles, shapes and sizes from over 40 rug manufacturers.

paper. It had a master suite on one end, a wide-open great room and kitchen in the middle, two guestrooms on the other end, and a whole bunch of big windows gazing out across Choctawhatchee Bay. “Looks pretty simple,” said Thom, looking over my scribble. “Just a big rectangle up on pilings.”

“Yup,” I grinned. “Kinda like a boxcar.”

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE MODERN MINIMALIST PROJECT, VISIT 30A.COM/MODERN. HART BUILDERS P.O. Box 6978 Miramar Beach, Florida 32550 (850) 586-1070 www.facebook.com/HARTBuilders

ROLEN STUDIO – MODERN RESIDENTIAL 93 Dune Lakes Circle #D-201 Santa Rosa Beach, Florida 32459 (850) 814-2642 www.rolenstudio.com

Discover unique handmade furniture and accessories from around the world.

M O N D AY– S AT U R D AY 10–5 PM Serving the Emerald Coast since 2002

13123 E. Emerald Coast Pkwy Inlet Beach, FL 32413

850.230.4425

10859 Emerald Coast Parkway West Ste 203 Destin, FL 32550 850.650.9092

1217 Harrison Avenue Panama City, FL 32401 850.769.7043

www.builderspecialties.net

L I F E

C6

·

D E F I N E D

140 NORTH CHARLES STREET

Aspri Villa, a most spacious home ideal for family, combines shared living spaces with private suites, surrounding an expansive courtyard with infinity edge pool. The dramatic tower room offers 360-degree views of the town.

H 7

·

223

NORTH

SOMERSET

P 1 3

STR E E T

This villa offers 3 bedroom, 2.5 baths overlooking Central Park and Caliza Pool and Restaurant. A family centric living area with fireplace, kitchen and dining circulate to a serene private courtyard with pool.

·

7 4

N O N E SUCH

W A Y

This family-friendly beach home has 4 bedrooms, 4.5 baths, bunk room and a two car garage. Beautiful finishes throughout. The well-appointed kitchen has ample cabinets and workspace. The open dining/living room seamlessly transitions to a courtyard with fireplace and fountain.

A1 2

·

3 8

N O RTH

CHARLES

ST REET

This 4 bedroom, 4.5 bath courtyard home is located across from Fonville Press. A bright kitchen, spacious living and dining room open to a gracious courtyard with pool. The second floor features a roof-top terrace and a detached guest suite overlooking the court below.

B8 · 94 NORTH CHARLES STREET

U23 · SOMERSET HOME

This 2,187 square-foot courtyard home has 3 bedrooms, 3.5 baths and is located close to the Caliza Pool, Fitness Center and Fonville Press. The first floor master bedroom opens onto the courtyard and two spacious bedrooms, a children’s flex space, and roof top terrace complete the second floor.

Located on the corner of Arboleda Park and Nonesuch Way, this Somerset Home designed by Jason R. Dunham features 4 bedrooms, 4.5 baths, a spacious living / dining area, expansive courtyard with pool and grill area, and two-car garage. Buyers can make personal interior finish selections for the home.

A L Y S B E A C H . C O M

·

8 5 0 . 2 1 3 . 5 5 0 0

Alys Beach Properties, LLC, Licensed Real Estate Broker participation welcome. Equal Housing Opportunity. This is not an offer or solicitation in CA, NY, NJ or any state where prohibited by law. ALYS BEACH is a trademark of EBSCO Industries, Inc. © 2015

Experience the “Other” Colorado at Gateway Canyons Resort

By Bill Weckel Photography by Bill Weckel and Jessica Rybarczyk

When I think about vacationing at a world-class five-star luxury resort, my mind conjures up visions of being pampered, indulging in fine food and drink, and relaxing deeply in the pools and spa.

As expected, Gateway Canyons Resort and Spa delivers on all counts.

One look at their website was all it took—I knew I’d be returning home to Florida relaxed, rejuvenated, and a few pounds heavier.

What I didn’t know was that I’d be coming home smarter.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 51

he resort—a Noble House Hotels and Resorts property—is nestled among towering mesas in the high desert of western Colorado.

This country is not the aspencovered, dotted-with-ski-towns, Rocky Mountains Colorado; this is the “other” Colorado. The western range of the Colorado Rockies actually looks and feels much more like Utah or Arizona. This Colorado is rough, peppered-in-scrub, red rock country. It’s like the setting of just about every old cowboy movie I’ve seen. After the early pioneers descended from the Rockies and likely thought the worst was behind

52 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

them, this was the kind of land that caused them to question their commitment.

It’s beautiful, big, and wild. At this altitude, the cool nights—free from city lights—bring the sky to life with thousands of stars, interrupted by the occasional meteor streaking silently across the great expanse. It’s the perfect place to feel like you’re far, far away from everything that you need to forget, if only for a few days.

The resort complements the beautiful setting in every way and gives the sense that it was carved from—if not created by—the high desert. The person who built this place, I could tell, loved and respected the land. Sprinkled throughout the property are adobestyle buildings, the majority of which don’t rise above one or two stories, preserving the beautiful views in every direction.

anything, our casita was exceptional. It was beautifully appointed without the smallest comfort spared or detail overlooked. It was deceptively large (judging from the quaint exterior) with a great room, a master bedroom, and a master bath.

I could have disappeared for our entire stay into the master bath, with its incredible shower and porcelain claw-foot tub; it was larger than the master bedroom of my house. Both the great room and the master bedroom opened onto beautiful patios—the former covered by a pergola and featuring a gas fire pit, the latter featuring a large, beautifully tiled hot tub. Both were graced with spectacular views of the canyon’s dominating feature, the Palisade mesa. I wanted nothing more than to get into the hot tub and never get out, but that would have to wait. Lunch was waiting for us at Paradox Grille.

I could have disappeared for our entire stay into the master bath with its incredible shower and porcelain claw-foot tub.

We drove in from Moab, Utah, on a crisp, clear October morning. The fifty-mile journey over the La Sal range, which reaches elevations of more than twelve thousand feet, took us three hours. The road is mostly dirt, and its switchbacks and sheer cliffs are not for the faint of heart. We crawled the majority of it in four-wheel drive, through herds of cattle, and past signs warning travelers to steer clear of the Cold War–era uranium mines along the way. We chose this route for its spectacular views of the La Sal range in full fall color.

The resort staff was waiting for us and greeted us by name when we arrived. They checked us in quickly and guided us to our aptly named Stargazer Casita— sixteen hundred square feet of elegance on the far side of the resort. If first impressions count for

I should take a moment to explain something about myself. I’m not a travel writer. At least in spirit. I’m really the antithesis of one. I don’t like to be “pampered” and would prefer being in a tent or sleeping on the ground in a remote wilderness to luxuriating in a king-size bed wrapped in Egyptian cotton. And I’m not comfortable being the focus of someone’s “service.”

Despite the knowledge that it’s the person’s chosen vocation, I can’t shake the feeling that I’m somehow imposing upon them or that I’m burdening them in some way. It’s just who I am. Also, I’m not easily impressed; I value substance over style every time. For me to prattle on about how wonderful my experience at a luxury resort was is surprising, even to myself. To be completely honest, there was probably some small part of me that didn’t want to like this place based solely on my own principles.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 53

John Hendricks, the founder of Discovery Communications, is involved in an ongoing love affair with rare, classic cars.

As his personal collection grew, he created a permanent home for it at the resort.

Lunch at Paradox Grille—the name stems from the valley the resort occupies—consisted of Driven Street Tacos for me and a golden beet and quinoa burger for Jessica. Both meals were delicious and left us wanting to retire back to the casita for a nap. But we had an appointment at the Gateway Canyons Auto Museum with Rudy, the resort’s managing director, so we grabbed our camera gear and set out on a search for the museum.

I’m an ex-motorhead, but with a strong emphasis on the “ex.” In high school, I had a 1968 Plymouth Belvedere GTX, a 1968 Dodge Charger, and a 1967 Chevy Chevelle SS. But that was long ago, in the days when teenagers could afford to get their 54 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

hands on that kind of metal. Times have changed, and now I’m happy just to have a car that starts each morning. The thought of working on—or spending money on—a car makes me cringe. So I wasn’t overly excited about spending the next two hours looking at old cars.

Rudy met us in the lobby and introduced himself. He admitted that the museum’s curator would normally conduct the personal tour, but the position was vacant at the moment and he would be leading us through the exhibits. He also admitted that he wasn’t much of a “car guy” either. But, he’s a lifelong student of history and called attention to the fact that the history of our country, at least that of the

modern era, is inextricably tied to the automobile.

I couldn’t disagree.

If you’re wondering why a luxury resort in the high desert of western Colorado would be home to an auto museum, allow me to explain. The resort was created by owner John Hendricks, the founder of Discovery Communications (a.k.a. the Discovery Channel), a cable-television empire serving more than four hundred million households. Hendricks is involved in an ongoing love affair with rare, classic cars.

As his personal collection grew, he created a permanent home for it at the resort. His private collection, considered one of the finest in existence, is now available for the public to enjoy.

it remained for decades before being discovered and reassembled. My favorites, however, were the 1957 DeSoto Firesweep and the 1932 Auburn 8-100 Boattail Speedster Convertible. To my eye, there have never been two better-looking cars conceived. The collection was beautifully restored and presented, but it was Rudy’s narrative that made the tour a truly memorable experience.

Our next adventure began when Ross, the resort’s “horse boss,” delivered us to the stables, where we saddled up and, guided by wrangler Morgan, headed into the surrounding hills. She led us on a relaxing, meandering ride through the scrub and a stand of aspens in their fall colors.

Every car has a story and many of the models in the collection have significant provenances. As Rudy led us through the collection, he shared the backstories of some of his favorites. The red Model J Duesenberg, for instance, was the car in which Franco’s family escaped Spain. The collection is presented chronologically and spans the history of the American automobile from the birth of the industry through today. The centerpiece of the collection is the one-of-a-kind Oldsmobile F-88 concept car. Designed to compete with the Corvette, the F-88 never advanced beyond a single prototype. When the concept was abandoned, Oldsmobile’s engineers disobeyed orders to send the car to the crusher (failed concepts are typically destroyed) and smuggled it, part by part, into hiding, where

Back at the casita, we finally had some time to make the acquaintance of our very alluring hot tub and enjoy some much-needed downtime before a beer tasting and dinner. Back at Paradox Grille, we began the evening with a sampling of a dozen or so Colorado craft beers presented by the very knowledgeable and enthusiastic Tyler. Colorado is arguably one of the cradles of the American craft beer movement. Another outstanding meal followed. In keeping with the Colorado theme, I went for the Colorado elk chili V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 55

manner, the geology behind our find—not only what we were looking at, but also how it came to be. Many more stories followed as we scouted the trail of local cattle thieves and viewed the scene of a Wild West gunfight. As difficult as it is to choose one activity that was the highlight of our stay, our field trip with Zeb just might have been it. I’d have been happy to spend the entire day hiking with him and talking dinosaurs. But the day was still young and I had a spa visit scheduled, so we wrapped up our dinosaur hunt. rellenos, while Jessica chose the lobster macaroni and cheese. With no room left for dessert, we retired again to our casita’s hot tub for stargazing and wine.

that spans an area encompassing portions of Utah, Colorado, and Wyoming. Dinosaurs and their accompanying geology were high on the expedition’s agenda.

The next day began with too large a breakfast, promptly followed by a field trip led by the resort’s curator of curiosity, Zebulon Miracle. Zeb is a true local. Recruited from the ranks of field researchers at a Colorado natural history museum, Zeb enriches the resort’s guests with his knowledge of local history, geology, and paleontology. The resort is located in what’s referred to as the Dinosaur Diamond, a unique geological feature rich in dinosaur fossils

Just a short drive from the resort, we were hot on the trail of dinosaurs. Zeb’s scientific experience and skills became very apparent when, in the midst of thousands of red sandstone rocks and boulders littering the landscape, he led us to one large boulder that held promise. Moments later we were running our fingers over dinosaur tracks left in the rock. And not just one set of tracks from one animal, but multiple tracks from several species. Zeb explained, in a very entertaining

56 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Like everything else at Gateway Canyons Resort, I’m confident the spa is world class. But I have never had a massage, and I wasn’t enthusiastic about expanding my horizons in that direction. I told Rudy that my interests lay elsewhere, and he candidly admitted that it wasn’t “his thing” either and asked me what I’d rather do. I didn’t have to think twice about it: I wanted to shoot. Rudy called the resort’s head of security and soon after, I was on the skeet range with a small arsenal of autoloading and pump shotguns laid out in front of me. In between talking guns with the range officer, I managed to put a hundred or so rounds

The resort is located in what’s referred to as the Dinosaur Diamond, a unique geological feature rich in dinosaur fossils. into the canyon wall. Some of them hit the clay pigeons I was aiming at. I packed up before the twelve-gauge had a chance to get the best of my shoulder. Another good time had passed too quickly.

After freshening up at the casita, I rode my bike over to the Adventure Center.

(Bicycles are the preferred method of transport at the resort, and we were provided with a large selection of very nice cruisers to choose from.) As if the resort needed any more opportunities for adventure, there is actually a center for it. This is where guests can rent exotic sports cars for adrenaline-inducing touring on the canyon’s winding roads, take an aerial tour in the resort’s magnificent Eurocopter, go off-roading in a variety of vehicles, or book a number of additional activities ranging from fly-fishing to hiking. After spending the past week in Moab, the offroad capital of the world, and finding myself drooling over the ubiquitous UTVs there, my choice of adventures was easy. I joined a UTV run to the top of one of

For sheer natural beauty and tranquility, the ski towns of the nearby Rockies simply can’t compete with the high desert. the nearby mesas. My four-wheeler was a two-seater, but I drove solo—Jessica was back at the casita, enjoying having it all to herself. We climbed several thousand feet on a mixture of unpaved road and trails. Upon reaching the top, we visited a uranium mine and a scenic overlook of the canyon, stopping at each site for short talks with our trail guide. The drive was loud and dusty, and it reeked of exhaust fumes. In other words, it was perfect.

After a quick shower, we were off to dinner at the resort’s flagship fine-dining restaurant, Entrada. I devoured the grilled filet while Jessica enjoyed an arugula salad followed by king crab and charred corn soup. As with every meal at Gateway, preparation, presentation, and service were of the highest caliber. And again, there was no room for dessert. The food and the atmosphere—open-air, twilight dining on the Entrada patio lit by the glow of fire pits—were magical. Were it not for the casita, with its own fire pit and hot tub under the stars beckoning us “home,” we would have withdrawn to the surrounding couches and lingered far longer than we did.

With our visit drawing to a close the next morning and a long drive east over the Rockies to Denver ahead of us, we relaxed and enjoyed our starlit view of the Palisade. It was the perfect end to the perfect high desert retreat.

The “other” Colorado is a hidden gem. For sheer natural beauty and tranquility, the ski towns of the nearby Rockies simply can’t compete with the high desert. Its remoteness is a comfort. It’s rugged, genuine, and real.

Furniture • Art • Rugs • Accessories • Bedding Window Treatment • Home Improvements Interior Design Services

(850) 267-1411 • FurnitureSouth.net 4552 US Hwy 98 West #8 • Santa Rosa Beach, FL

Jessica and I think alike and, more often than not, draw the same conclusions. With the experience fresh in mind and a long drive to reflect on it, we talked a lot about Gateway— the natural beauty, the food, our casita, and all of the activities—and western Colorado in general. There was nothing about any of it that we didn’t absolutely love. But when it came to pinpointing what made Gateway truly extraordinary, we both agreed, without reservation, it was the people. Every one of them—and I made it a point to engage with everyone I met there—was at the top of his or her field. I think that any number of people could have built that resort and chosen any number of companies to run it, but it wouldn’t be the same Gateway.

What I took away from this trip is that it’s the people who create the experience, and it’s one I’ll remember and talk about for years to come. Gateway offers unique, unexpected activities that go far beyond the typical and customary resort fare.

We left feeling not only relaxed, but also as if we’d accomplished something. And, we had only scratched the surface of what Gateway Canyons Resort has to offer.

I think my IQ rose by a few points, too.

(4 miles East of Sandestin in The Landings Shopping Center) To learn more about Gateway Canyons Resort, visit www.gatewaycanyons.com.

CUSTOM

19K & 18K GOLD

CREATIONS

DIAMONDS

FROM

AND

AARON HENRY

GEMSTONES

FUSIONARTGLASS.COM 585 GRAND BOULEVARD \ SANDESTIN, FL \ 850.654.7311 55 CENTRAL SQUARE \ SEASIDE, FL \ 850.231.5405

Geoff Chick & Associates Custom Residential Architecture & Design

Sielbeck Residence – Pelican Circle

Architecture by Geoff Chick

•

Builder: Richard Swift Construction

•

Photos by Jack Gardner

www.geoffchick.com (850) 622-0210 790 N o r th Hi g h w ay 3 9 3 , Su it e 2 E , Sa n t a Ro s a B e a c h , F L 3 2 4 5 9

62 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Bountiful Ballymaloe a trip to

By t o r i p h e l p s Photog raphy by c o l l e e n d u f f l e y

Darina Allen is probably the most famous person you’ve never heard of. If you live in the United States, that is. The rest of the world is quite familiar with her. Though she’s sometimes called the Julia Child of Ireland, Allen is, in fact, a true original.

An Irishwoman who was raised in a tiny village and now travels the world, she’s both charmingly laid back and fiercely passionate when it comes to food.

At her distinguished Ballymaloe Cookery School, students quickly learn that Allen isn’t interested in futuristic culinary trends or any dishes with more style than substance. The internationally renowned chef and cookbook author is far more concerned with where food comes from.

to her home in order to show them, literally, where food comes from. Or at least where it ought to come from.

And she thinks you should be, too.

Nothing against tea shops, but she had other plans.

She’d heard about a woman, Myrtle Allen, who had opened a country inn and restaurant a few years earlier, writing the menu every day based on what was in season. She even made her own ice cream with milk from her own cows. It stuck with Allen because it was so odd; nobody ran restaurants out in the country. She now knows that it was the first such venture in Ireland and perhaps in the British Isles.

Mother Nature’s Classroom

Allen and her family have created an empire around simple, fresh, farm-to-table food from their home base in the Cork countryside on Ireland’s southern coast. She doesn’t run Ballymaloe for the money; with her status, Allen could make a lot more simply by doing TV appearances. She welcomes students

She first came to this plot of land in the late 1960s, fresh out of hotel school and unable to find a job.

The lack of employment offers didn’t reflect on her talent, but rather the times. “Men were chefs, and women ran tea shops,” she says wryly.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 63

A

llen wrote to this pioneering woman and inquired about a job. Myrtle responded warmly, inviting her to join the kitchen and mentioning that she had children about the same age. Spoiler alert: Allen became an Allen by marrying one of those children.

“I joined the family the expeditious way—by marrying the boss’s son,” she says.

The lifestyle suited Allen perfectly. She had been raised in the country, one of nine children in a home where there was always a stew simmering or a pie baking. Her family had a kitchen garden, hens for eggs, and a Kerry cow for milk. Perfectly simple, home-cooked food was all she knew. Processed food was nearly unheard of, and there certainly wasn’t any in the house. Rather, her mother designed meals around what was popping up in the garden.

Of the Allen family’s eventual market-cornering enterprises, she shrugs that one thing simply led to another. There are now four generations of Allens living and working within a few miles of each other, including her own four children and ten grandchildren. They all have separate businesses under the Ballymaloe umbrella, from a garden shop to a catering company to a farmers’ market.

“We all want to make a living on the land we love,” she explains.

Allen’s main responsibility is Ballymaloe Cookery School. It sits on a one-hundred-acre certified organic farm—the first cooking school in the world to do so— and boasts acres of greenhouses and livestock dwellings that serve as outdoor classrooms. Ballymaloe was an organic, farm-to-table, composting operation before any of those things were buzzwords—or even had a name. It’s not a sales pitch; it’s just who they are and how they’ve always lived.

Colleen Duffley can attest to that. The Santa Rosa Beach, Florida, resident has been to Ballymaloe multiple times over the last fifteen-plus years, falling in love with the people and their “new” ideas immediately.

She recalls an occasion during one of the her trips when a student threw a scrap of food into the garbage.

“Darina pulled it out and said, ‘We’ll put this in the compost pile because we compost everything.’ She was very nice about it, but that scrap wasn’t going to be thrown away,” Duffley says.

64 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Chefs, aspiring chefs, and regular ol’ food lovers from every corner of the planet travel to Ballymaloe for cooking classes.

A commercial photographer who’s traveled the world shooting campaigns for top magazines and retail VIPs such as Neiman Marcus and Pottery Barn, Duffley’s passion for cooking initially drew her to Ballymaloe.

What she learned there, like the principles of the Slow Food movement, kept her coming back. Not to mention that while the rest of the world was still disdainful of Irish cuisine, Duffley had some of the best food of her life at Ballymaloe.

Slow Food is another just-the-way-it’s-always-been regimen that Allen adhered to before it was a “thing.”

But now that it’s an official movement, she’s a zealous supporter. The Slow Food movement, launched in 1986 by Italian journalist Carlo Petrini, came about following a protest to keep McDonald’s out of Rome.

(The protest failed, by the way, and today a visit to the iconic Spanish Steps includes the smell of French fries.) But from those protests arose an international organization dedicated to everything that fast food is not: good, clean, and fair. Proponents believe that food should be good for you, produced in clean surroundings that don’t damage the environment, and fair to the people who produce it.

Allen calls the Slow Food movement a vital correction to our badly fractured food system. She points out that the emphasis for the past half century has been on producing maximum food at minimum cost. Despite the fact that our health depends on the food we eat, we spend less on food now than at any time in history—and we know more about the lives of celebrities than we do about how our food is produced. “The public has been lulled into the concept that cheap food is their right, but there’s no such thing as cheap food,” she cautions. “We pay for it somehow.”

Darina Allen

Ballymaloe was an organic, farm-to-table, composting operation before any of those things were buzzwords— or even had a name.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 65

ews stories highlight those costs, like rising obesity and disease rates. Allen is most frustrated by the fact that whole generations don’t know where their food comes from, let alone how to grow it. She believes it’s essential to embed those essentials into school curricula. Shouldn’t feeding ourselves be considered at least as important as math and science, she asks?

And by “embed,” she means into every subject, at every level. She suggests learning about geography by studying the foods of different regions or about math by studying food-related percentages.

The Place of Sweet Honey

Until the rest of the world comes around, though, she’ll continue to do her part at Ballymaloe. Chefs, aspiring chefs, and regular ol’ food lovers from every corner of the planet travel to Ballymaloe for cooking classes that range from a half-day course to a prestigious three-month certificate program that equips students to earn their livings as chefs.

But you don’t have to be on a class roster to access Ballymaloe’s foodie paradise.

The gardens are open to the public, as are the daily cooking demonstrations. “Just swing by,” Allen invites.

Whether students or visitors, people come to Ballymaloe to learn about cooking.

But more importantly, they come to truly understand how food gets from farm to fork—and how short that journey should be. By now, Duffley gets it. And yet she can’t stay away. She was last at Ballymaloe in July 2015 and fell into the familiar routine of spending the morning with the milk cows and picking produce in the gardens. Then it’s time to head for the kitchens because except for breakfast, which is usually cooked by the staff, students eat what they cook.

Ballymaloe instructors cover everything from basic knife skills to advanced culinary techniques, and they do it in a supportive, nonthreatening way. Duffley is an accomplished cook who’s been to schools all over the world, but she insists there’s something special about Ballymaloe. “They really hone your cooking skills,” she relates, “but they do it with such ease that it makes you feel comfortable attacking any recipe.”

Perhaps it’s the family-centered aspect of Ballymaloe that makes people feel like they’ve come home. Or maybe it’s the fact that the school and farm are a soulsatisfying return to how food—and life—should be. There’s no denying that the past is very much present at Ballymaloe. The word itself is an ancient Gaelic term that translates to “the townland of sweet honey.” Even a thousand years ago, it seems, the area was a culinary hot spot.

The fertile land and the commitment of the Allen family to nurturing that land have led to astonishing things. Allen has appeared in more than half a dozen of her own cooking series, sometimes alongside her brother, Rory O’Connell, whom Duffley calls one of the most gifted chefs she has ever seen in action. She also writes a weekly food and travel column for the Irish Examiner and helped launch the Kerrygold Ballymaloe Litfest of Food and Wine. The only event of its kind in the country, Litfest combines Ireland’s illustrious tradition of prose and poetry with top-notch artisanal foods and drinks.

In addition to her television series, which have a global reach, Allen is most recognized as a cookbook author. She has written between fourteen and sixteen—she can’t even recall how many off the top of her head—and is at work on her latest. “The working title is For God’s Sake, Grow Your Own Food,” she chuckles.

Only time will tell whether she’s serious about the title, but it’s entirely likely that she is. Allen knows she gets worked up when she talks about fresh food (“I’m sounding like an old fuddyduddy, aren’t I?” she queries at one point), but she can’t help it.

The consequences of not working toward a drastic change in the food supply are too dire to remain politely silent.

66 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

THE MARKET SHOPS

SUNDAYS 1:00PM-3:00PM JANUARY 10 - FEBRUARY 28

There’s no denying that the past is very much present at Ballymaloe. The word itself is an ancient Gaelic term that translates to “the townland of sweet honey.”

JANUARY 10 NICK & MARK JANUARY 17 DAVID SEERING TRIO JANUARY 24 DONNIE SUNDAL OF BOUKOU GROOVE JANUARY 31 RUSTY HAMMERSTROM

FEBRUARY 7 MICHAEL J. THOMAS FEBRUARY 14 RON ADAMS “SHADOW OF THE KING” & THE MEMPHIS ECHOES FEBRUARY 21 CHUCK LAWSON FEBRUARY 28 AUSTIN JENNINGS

FREE

ON THE MARKET SHOPS LAWN RAIN OR SHINE

themarketshops.com

LOCATED AT THE ENTRANCE TO SANDESTIN GOLF AND BEACH RESORT 9375 EMERALD COAST PARKWAY, MIRAMAR BEACH, FL 32550 | (850) 837-3077

W

hile spreading the Slow Food message, she’s become an ambassador of sorts for Irish food. Allen readily admits that Irish food has an appalling reputation, but then again, so do British and American foods, she counters. All of that is changing, though. Ireland now has an incredible artisanal food sector, including cheese makers who’ve helped many of their US peers get started.

The revival of Ireland’s culinary reputation is thanks to the kind of food grown at Ballymaloe—what Allen calls “lovely fresh food that’s in season.” And though she keeps an eye on international trends, she refuses to fall slavishly in step. “I have very little time for things like molecular gastronomy,” she says, adding that she does respect the chefs who do it well. “It’s just not my type of food.”

The revival of Ireland’s culinary reputation is thanks to the kind of food grown at Ballymaloe—what Allen calls “lovely fresh food that’s in season.”

Allen’s food is a lot like the woman herself: warm, straightforward, and down to earth. She’s as famous as any chef in the world, attests the globe-trotting Duffley, but she doesn’t wear that celebrity like most chefs of her renown. Duffley still recalls one of her first encounters with Allen as a perfect example of her nature: “I was eating alone in the dining room, and she invited me into the kitchen to eat with her family,” Duffley says. “She didn’t know me; she just knew I was alone.”

That graciousness, she says, makes Allen remarkably approachable, a stark contrast to many high-profile American chefs. Allen laughs when asked how she’s escaped that pitfall—and that reputation. “It helps that I live in the country,” she replies. “And in Ireland, we don’t have that same sort of hero worship when it comes to celebrities. Which is a jolly good thing, because there’s no need to get above yourself.”

Digging in the dirt on a daily basis is certainly one way to keep your feet on the ground. And it’s an essential part of learning how to cook, Allen argues, which is why her students get plenty of opportunity to do so.

68 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Participants in the intensive three-month program even get their own plot of land to work.

Whether they attend classes that are hours or months long, Allen expects her students to leave Ballymaloe with enhanced skills and more confidence in the kitchen. But most importantly, she wants them to understand that all good food comes from good sources. “If you start off with mass-produced, denatured food, you have to be a magician to make it taste good,” she says. “But if you start with fresh fish and vegetables, for example, it’s so easy to make it good.”

And with the knowledge of what good food really is, Allen hopes more people will incorporate quality food and cooking time into their daily lives. It’s the secret to far more than just a tasty dinner. “There’s not much that can’t be solved when people are cooking together,” she muses.

Duffley has experienced the truth of that, which is why she’ll continue to return to the place and the people who captured her heart a decade and a half ago. “Cooking is the best gift you can give someone,” she says. “And Ballymaloe epitomizes everything good about it.”

For more information about Ballymaloe Cookery School, visit www.cookingisfun.ie. For more information about the Kerrygold Ballymaloe Litfest of Food and Wine, visit www.litfest.ie.

30A’s Newest Luxury Development On the southside of 30A between WaterSound & The Hub

Homesites Starting at $425,000 www.GracePointSales.com

$1,999,000 | MLS: 738549

$1,299,000 | MLS: 738619

Debbie James 850.450.2000 Debbie@850properties.com

Exclusive Listing Brokerage

Marie Solomon 850.502.6021 Marie@850properties.com

The Best Sunsets in the World

FLORIDA’S GULF COAST

Photo by Modus Photography

long Scenic Highway 30-A on Northwest Florida’s coast, there are just as many moments to witness nature’s wonders as there are moments in the day. But two events each day tend to stand out for locals and visitors alike as the sun rises and falls over the shimmering Gulf of Mexico. A sunrise viewed from a balcony with a steaming cup of coffee in hand is a glorious thing. Likewise, a sunset enjoyed from the beach with a glass of crisp white wine or seen from a pier or boat is a great way to end a day with friends.

Both spectacles offer a chance to slow down, take a deep breath, and remember that there will always be beauty in the world.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 73

I find it incredibly amazing how at every sunset, the sky is a different shade. No cloud is ever in the same place. Each day is a new masterpiece. A new wonder. A new memory. — SANOBER KHAN

Top: Photo by Romona Robbins Bottom: Photo by Fantasia McDaniel 74 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

This is my favorite time of day. When the sun is setting and the last of its fiery fingers caress the water line before relinquishing their hold to the darkness of night. And I can watch as the stars pop out, one by one, to pinprick the sky with their silvery light. — J.A. SOUDERS, REVELATIONS

Photo by Dawn Chapman Whitty V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 75

A large red drop of sun lingered on the horizon and then dripped over and was gone, and the sky was brilliant over the spot where it had gone . . . And dusk crept over the sky from the eastern horizon . . . — JOHN STEINBECK, THE GRAPES OF WRATH

Beautiful Caliza Pool and Restaurant in the New Urban community of Alys Beach, Florida, were designed by architects Marieanne Khoury-Vogt and Erik Vogt. This gathering place serves as a community center for the town and has been awarded the Shutze Award for commercial architecture in 2010 and a Palladio Award in 2009. Inspiring feelings of romance and wanderlust for exotic places, this dreamy oasis was perfect for our Voyager Issue cover. Photo by Jack Gardner

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 77

The beautiful affair of sun, sky and the sea brings a perfect moment of love, peace and joy. — UMAIR SIDDIQUI

Top: Photo by Romona Robbins Bottom: Photo by Lynn Nesmith

It was that wonderful moment when, for lack of a visible horizon, the not yet darkened world seems infinitely greater— a moment when anything can happen, anything be believed in.

— OLIVIA HOWARD DUNBAR, THE SHELL OF SENSE

Photo by Fantasia McDaniel V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 79

Dusk . . . is just an illusion, because the sun is either above the horizon or below it. And that means that day and night are linked in a way that few things are; there cannot be one without the other, yet they cannot exist at the same time. How would it feel, I remember wondering, to be always together, yet forever apart? — NICHOLAS SPARKS, THE NOTEBOOK

80 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Photo by Modus Photography

Photo by Jack Gardner

See every Sub-Zero and Wolf product in its natural environment at The Living Kitchen.

Make yourself at home. Get hands-on with the complete line of Sub-Zero and Wolf products as you move from one full-scale kitchen vignette to the next. Once you’ve been inspired by all that your new kitchen can be, our specialist will help you turn your dreams into a reality.

THE LIVING KITCHEN 4646 Gulfstarr Drive | Destin | Florida | 32541 850.424.5191 unitedlighting.com

And yet day and night meet fleetingly at twilight and dawn. And their merging sometimes affords the beholder the most enchanted moments of all the twenty-four hours. A sunrise or a sunset can be ablaze with brilliance and arouse all the passion, all the yearning, in the soul of the beholder.

— MARY BALOGH, A SUMMER TO REMEMBER

Photo by Nikki Castle

interiors for your abode at the beach or miles away

• unit 105 • seagrove beach, florida 32459 231-1783 • abodebeachinteriors.com

4281 east county highway 30a (850)

By Parker McClellan Executive Director of Northwest Florida Beaches International Airport

84 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

WITH A NEW YEAR OFTEN COMES A SENSE OF ADVENTURE AND EVEN WANDERLUST. LUCKILY FOR TODAY’S TRAVELERS, A VARIETY OF SITES AND APPS ARE AVAILABLE TO HELP MAKE PLANNING YOUR NEXT TRIP AS SEAMLESS AS POSSIBLE. BELOW YOU WILL FIND MY PERSONAL FAVORITE COLLECTION OF FREE ONLINE RESOURCES TO HELP YOU PLAN AND ENJOY YOUR NEXT VOYAGE. Planning and Inspiration OpenTable

OpenTable allows you to discover, book, and manage restaurant reservations anytime, anywhere. Explore thousands of restaurants worldwide and find available tables to book instantly. The app includes reviews, photos, and menus to give you a clear idea of what to expect on your next getaway. With its ability to let you browse top-rated and trendy dining spots, it could also inspire your next trip. www.opentable.com

TripAdvisor

Millions of travelers use TripAdvisor to rank the restaurants, bars, hotels, and sights of a city through crowdsourcing. TripAdvisor also offers a standalone app called Offline City Guides, with maps of more than eighty destinations available to download and access later without a mobile data connection, which makes it a must-have for international travel.

FlightAware Flight Tracker

FlightAware Flight Tracker allows you to track the real-time flight status of any commercial flight worldwide. Beyond its standard features, this app has some unique extras for those interested in aviation. The app allows users to see which aircraft are nearby and their final destinations using a GPS locator. It also allows users to zoom in and pan around a map of the world, with commercial, charter, and private flights all recorded. www.flightaware.com

My TSA

My TSA eliminates delays and stress by providing 24/7 information that passengers frequently request. The app answers those commonly asked “What can I bring?” questions. The app also has features like security wait times, airport guides, and contact information for TSA. www.apps.tsa.dhs.gov/mytsa

www.tripadvisor.com

Instagram

Instagram is a popular social media platform that recently surpassed three hundred million users. This app is a great resource for trip planning, as a lot of travel bloggers showcase their adventures on it. Many users include tips on getting around as well as recommendations for little-known bars and cafés. Instagram also has a search-bylocation feature, which allows the user to look at real-time photos of destinations. www.instagram.com

Flying Delta Air Lines, Southwest Airlines, United Airlines, & Silver Airways

Most airlines—such as Delta Air Lines, Southwest, and United—offer helpful apps that allow you to compare flights and prices, check your flight status, find your gate information, and get your boarding pass delivered right to your mobile device, saving time and paper. Silver Airways has an online element that lets you check your flight status and access mobile boarding passes, making them easy to scan at security checkpoints.

IFlyBeaches.com

The airports you are flying from and into can also provide great resources for travelers. IFlyBeaches.com is a one-stop resource for travelers going through Northwest Florida Beaches International Airport. The mobile-friendly website provides travel information, including flight status, airline, rental car, and terminal information. www.iflybeaches.com

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 85

The Details TripIt

The Outpost - 30Avenue Photo courtesy of Cody Jordan Photography

TripIt automatically creates a master itinerary of an upcoming trip that is accessible through the web or a mobile device by simply forwarding your travel confirmation e-mails. The itineraries even include tidbits we sometimes forget, such as weather updates, local maps, and directions. www.tripit.com

Google Translate

Language barriers can be rough, but the Google Translate team has made things a bit easier with a “conversation mode.” The app allows you to hold a mobile device between two people speaking different languages and listen as it translates a conversation live. Granted, there may be some lag time or mistranslations, but it’s better than trying to use hand signals! www.translate.google.com

AccuWeather MinuteCast

residential

| commercial | renovation

www.GrandBayConstruction.com

AccuWeather’s MinuteCast gives you minute-by-minute information on upcoming conditions for your exact location—so you’ll know if you have ten minutes to run to the store without needing an umbrella. The app offers radar maps that are easy to read, as well as breaking storm alerts and other features expected from a weather app, such as video updates, hourly forecasts, and details on humidity, UV index, wind speed, wind gusts, cloud cover, dew point, pressure, and sunrise and sunset times. www.accuweather.com

CGC # 1509111

110 Logan Ln., Suite 3, Santa Rosa Beach, FL

850.231.1437

HAVE A SITE OR APP THAT HAS HELPED MAKE YOUR TRAVEL EXPERIENCE MORE PLEASANT? SHARE IT WITH US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER @IFLYBEACHES.

WE ARE.

BREAKING RECORDS

List with Jonathan by February 15th to have your property featured in Scenic Sotheby’s International Realty’s next issue of NICHE magazine.

Jonathan M. Spears, REALTOR® $42 Million Sold by Jonathan YTD 2015

850.974 .1761 | jonathan@scenicsir.com

Information presented is subject to errors, omissions, changes, or withdrawls without notice. Sotheby’s International Realty and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered (or unregistered) service marks used with permission. Each office is independently owned and operated.

THE FINAL FRONTIER LIVING IN THE AGE OF SPACE TRAVEL

BY JORDAN STAGGS PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF NASA

O

n December 13, 2015, I took my dog outside for a walk just as something bright white streaked across the sky, drawing my eye upward. No doubt hundreds of thousands of Americans witnessed the Geminid meteor shower that night, gazing up in wonder at the natural cosmic phenomenon and feeling very, very small. Many, like me, probably also wondered what else might be out there.

Space is all around us, and its vastness knows no bounds, at least none that any scientist has yet discovered.

Words such as “infinity” were created specifically for this concept. But from the beginning of time, humans have been fascinated with that infinite void surrounding our planet, studying its heavenly bodies and their movements, exploring those parts of it that are closest to us, and even writing fantastical tales about people and other not-so-human creatures that inhabit it. With popular books and films such as The Martian, Gravity, and even the latest installment of the Star Wars saga released recently, it’s clear the earthlings’ obsession with exploring other parts of our galaxy (and those far, far away) isn’t waning anytime soon. Thanks to incredible scientific organizations around the world, mankind is making new discoveries in space every day.

But how close are we to actually putting a man on Mars? According to the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), it’s not as far off as some may think.

Astronaut Scott Kelly on the second spacewalk of the International Space Station’s Expedition 45 on November 6, 2015 88 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

THE JOURNEY TO MARS

“NASA is closer to sending American astronauts to Mars than at any point in our history,” says NASA administrator Charles Bolden. A combination of missions on the International Space Station, studies in NASA facilities on Earth, and research missions conducted in areas of space closer to Earth such as the cislunar space—the volume of space around the Moon—will be further planned in the next decade as NASA and its partners worldwide continue on a journey to Mars. Outcomes of such studies and missions will determine the decisions made in the next twenty years that will put mankind leaps closer to touching the Martian surface as well as creating sustainable living systems for humans outside Earth’s atmosphere.

“NASA’s strategy connects near-term activities and capability development to the journey to Mars and a future with a sustainable human presence in deep space,” says William Gerstenmaier, associate administrator for Human Exploration and Operations at NASA Headquarters.

These near-term activities are already well under way: simulating Mars surface living in an isolated dome on the island of Hawaii; and building and redeveloping a heat shield for the Orion spacecraft that will protect its future inhabitants from harmful solar and atmospheric environments.

Although the real journey to Mars may still be a few decades away from fruition, earthlings can follow its progress through NASA’s website, social media accounts, and press conferences. They can also take their own journey to see NASA’s work up close and personal at many NASA facilities throughout the United States.

EXPLORING SPACE ON EARTH

For example, NASA’s Marshall Space Flight Center in Huntsville, Alabama, plays an integral part in the development of technology and procedures that make space travel possible. Huntsville, known as the Rocket City, is also home to the U.S. Space and Rocket Center, which houses the world’s largest space museum as well as the Space Camp program. Visitors to the Space and Rocket Center can take a bus tour of Marshall, explore the museum’s permanent and traveling exhibits, take part in interactive experiences, and ride simulators such as the Space Shot rocket launch, the G-Force Accelerator, the Mission to Mars ride, and more. The center is open daily for tours, field trips, IMAX films, and even relaxing afternoons in the Biergarten (open seasonally). Check the weather before you go, as you won’t want to miss a walk through Rocket Park, where visitors can see twenty-seven real rockets and missiles chronicling the history of man in space.

Plan your trip at RocketCenter.com.

Kennedy Space Center is one of NASA’s best-known facilities, as it has been the launch site of the organization’s most famous missions since 1968, including Apollo, Skylab, and the Space Shuttle. Working closely with neighboring Cape Canaveral Air Force Station, Kennedy continues to launch NASA’s most prominent missions. It also houses a visitor complex, where tourists can explore the exciting research and history that has occurred at Kennedy. They can take a ride in the Shuttle Launch Experience, walk through the awe-inspiring Apollo/Saturn V Center to relive the glory days of the Apollo missions, view rocket launches, and even meet real astronauts who often make appearances and give talks on their experiences. Visit KennedySpaceCenter.com to plan a visit.

90 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

NASA astronaut Scott Kelly captured this photograph from the International Space Station on October 7, 2015.

Sharing with his social media followers, Kelly wrote, “The daily morning dose of #aurora to help wake you up. #GoodMorning from @Space_Station! #YearInSpace.�

Top: Expedition 46 Soyuz launches to the International Space Station on December 15, 2015.

Bottom left: Commander Scott Kelly of NASA captured this image from aboard the International Space Station of the undocking and departure of the Soyuz TMA-17M, carrying home Expedition 45 crew members on December 11, 2015.

Bottom right: The Mars rover Curiosity takes a low-angle selfie at Buckskin drilling site at the planet’s Mount Sharp on August 5, 2015.

Artist concept of NASA’s Space Launch System (SLS) Block 1 configuration: SLS is the first vehicle designed to meet the challenges of the journey to Mars and the first exploration class rocket since Saturn V.

SPACE CENTER HOUSTON, THE VISITORS’ CENTER AT JOHNSON, HAS MUCH TO OFFER. TAKE A CLOSE-UP LOOK AT THE GALILEO SHUTTLECRAFT ON DISPLAY AND SEE LIVE TALKS WITH NASA ASTRONAUTS (OR EVEN HAVE LUNCH WITH ONE!).

Houston, we have another must-visit for any space fan: Lyndon B. Johnson Space Center in Houston, Texas (also known as NASA’s Manned Spacecraft Center). This is where mission control on NASA’s manned journeys into space are operated, where many astronauts undergo their flight training, and where countless researchers plan and prepare for manned spaceflight missions. Space Center Houston, the visitors’ center at Johnson, has much to offer. Take a close-up look at the Galileo shuttlecraft on display, see live talks with NASA astronauts (or even have lunch

with one!), and, starting January 23, tour the massive Boeing 747 NASA 905 shuttle carrier aircraft and the replica shuttle Independence at Independence Plaza. Log on to SpaceCenter.org to learn more.

These are just three of NASA’s twenty space center facilities throughout the United States. To find one near you or to learn more about planning a visit to a NASA facility, go to VisitNASA.com for a complete list of locations.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 93

SPACEFLIGHT FOR EVERYONE?

While NASA is busy launching astronauts into space and planning research missions, English businessman and investor Sir Richard Branson is trying to bring space travel to the masses—or at least the very wealthy. Branson, founder of Virgin Group (Virgin Atlantic airline, Virgin Mobile, etc.), launched the Virgin Galactic brand in September 2004 with plans to create the first commercial spaceflight provider. Though the first space tourism flight was originally scheduled for 2014, Virgin Galactic has not yet launched. But it still has “dreams of opening space to all,” according to its website, in order to create a better Earth through providing perspective to those who travel on its spacecraft. “By sending humans to space, we as a species have learned incredible things about human ingenuity and human physiology,” the website says. “Space exploration has inspired generations of entrepreneurs, inventors, ordinary citizens, and entire new industries.”

“Space is not only important to the future of transportation, it’s important to the future of imagination,” said Virgin Galactic CEO George Whitesides in September 2014. And with NASA backing satellite exploration missions by Virgin Galactic via its LauncherOne small satellite orbital launch vehicle, the company is poised to continue its exploration and development of future commercial spaceflight options. “Future astronauts” can even sign up to be part of the program for a mere $250,000 deposit! Secure your seat to the future at VirginGalactic.com.

Whether you’re a science buff who loves following every NASA mission, a true adventurer who wouldn’t be afraid to explore the vast reaches of the universe,

November 19, 1969: Apollo 12’s lunar module, Intrepid, in landing configuration with astronauts Charles Conrad Jr. (commander) and Alan L. Bean (pilot) on board.

or maybe just a nerd who enjoys watching Star Trek, Firefly, and Guardians of the Galaxy, there’s no denying the allure of all things cosmic. It’s an exciting time to be alive in the age of space exploration, so be sure to take a look at all the amazing things happening at NASA.gov, and plan a trip to a space center near you this year!spaceflight options.

“Future astronauts” can even sign up to be part of the program for a mere $250,000 deposit! Secure your seat to the future at VirginGalactic.com.

Whether you’re a science buff who loves following every NASA mission, a true adventurer who isn’t afraid to explore the vast reaches of the universe, or maybe just a nerd who enjoys watching Star Trek, Firefly, and Guardians of the Galaxy, there’s no denying the allure of all things cosmic. It’s an exciting time to be alive in the age of space exploration, so be sure to take a look at all the amazing things happening at NASA.gov, and plan a trip to a space center near you this year!

Hurricane Joaquin as seen from the International Space Station on October 2, 2015

96 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Finding THE

Blues

IN THE CITY OF FIVE FLAGS

Pensacola’s Belmont-DeVilliers district, once a thriving entertainment hub, makes a comeback

By T.S. Strickland | Photography by Invoking Media

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 97

t’s five o’clock on a Sunday, and Willie Jackson stands at the corner of a dimly lit bar inside the DeVilliers Cultural Heritage Museum.

In front of him, about two dozen people are seated at tables or in scattered chairs, many dressed in their Sunday best. A few enjoy plates of collard greens and baked chicken, while others sway back and forth in their seats or stand fanning themselves and shouting “Hallelujah!” in time with the music.

It’s Back to Gospel night at the museum, which is housed inside the historic Bunny Club in Pensacola’s Belmont-DeVilliers district, and Jackson is the evening’s distinguished host. His band, the Heavenly Stars, plays at the museum each month.

Tonight, they’re sharing the stage with another group whose leader’s lung capacity seems matched only by his stamina. He paces back and forth while singing, spreading his arms heavenward, and mopping the sweat from his brow with a four-foot-long cloth, which trails behind him like a bridal train.

Jackson watches the holy commotion from the bar, looking dapper in his jet-black suit and homburg hat. His shirt and tie are lilac and royal purple, and he keeps a matching handkerchief tucked neatly into his breast pocket. Deep lines descend from either side of his broad nose, joining with a neat, gray beard. The wrinkles— the only ones on his face—seem to hint at Jackson’s capacity for joy more than anything else.

He has at least one reason to keep smiling these days. The neighborhood, which locals know simply as “the Blocks,” is on the verge of a rebirth, with a wave of investment bringing new life into what was once the center of business and culture for the city’s African American community. At the center of this story, as has always been the case in the Blocks, is the music.

Jim Crow and Ambassador Satch

The Bunny Club is no stranger to rhythm. For the better half of the twentieth century, it was filled with the stuff—though, perhaps, of a less holy variety than Jackson’s.

The Belmont-DeVilliers neighborhood was the center of black life in Pensacola during the segregation era, when Jim Crow laws and mounting racial tension pushed most black business owners out of the city center. The Blocks became a place of refuge, a “city within a city” on the western fringe of downtown Pensacola.

Outside the neighborhood, life was rough for the city’s black residents, but, within the Blocks, business boomed. As the economy thrived, so did the entertainment industry.

The area hit its stride in the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s, when a string of nightclubs hosted some of the most iconic names in American music. There was the Bunny Club, of course. Then, there was the Saber Club and Abe’s 506 Club next door. Across the street was the grand dame of Pensacola nightclubs, the Savoy Gardens (also known as the Savoy Ballroom), which later merged with Abe’s and became the Savoy 506.

Through the decades, the Blocks played host to such artists as Louis Armstrong, Aretha Franklin, Ike and Tina Turner, and Fats Domino. Blues musician Sam McClain, who would later be nominated for a Grammy, was a regular performer at Abe’s 506 in the early 1960s, where he was “discovered” by disc jockey Papa Don Schroeder.

98 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Jackson moved to the Blocks at the end of this era, in 1969. He remembers it fondly. Standing outside the Bunny Club, he points south, across Belmont Street, to where the Savoy 506 used to stand.

“In the 506, you had different sections,” he says. “You had your lounge downstairs, when you first walked in. Then, you had the Stardust Room upstairs, where you’d get the live band. They’d play by the window, and the window would be up, so you could be coming around the corner and you’d hear the music. People in the neighborhood could hear it. It really was a good time.”

The Chitlin’ Circuit and the Birth of Rock ’n’ Roll

In those days, Belmont-DeVilliers was part of what is now known as the Chitlin’ Circuit, a network of black-owned music venues, talent agencies, and promoters that sprang to life in the nation’s “dark towns” during World War I and nurtured some of the biggest names in American music.

In his definitive history of the subject, The Chitlin’ Circuit and the Road to Rock ’n’ Roll, author Preston Lauterbach argues that the circuit was integral to the birth of rock ’n’ roll. “B.B. King, Ray Charles, James Brown—all of these guys started on the Chitlin’ Circuit,” he says. Belmont-DeVilliers and other neighborhoods like it nurtured the careers of artists who might otherwise have been left without a platform.

Still, life on the circuit wasn’t easy. Often, it was exhausting.

“They did one-nighters,” Lauterbach says, “so it was this whole hub-and-spoke kind of system where the artists would have gigs booked one night after one night after one night. I mean—you hear B.B. King talk about having to end a gig at two or three o’clock in the morning, get in the bus, drive five hundred miles, get a few winks of sleep, and do it again. That’s what the circuit was really about.”

“You hear B.B. King talk about having to end a gig at two or three o’clock in the morning, get in the bus, drive five hundred miles, get a few winks of sleep, and do it again. That’s what the circuit was really about.”

It was this hardscrabble reality, in Lauterbach’s view, that inspired the name “Chitlin’ Circuit” in the first place. “The venues were either themselves chitlin’ joints, or they were connected to chitlin’ cafés,” he says, “so I think it had some literal connection, but I think it had more of a spiritual meaning as well. You know, the chitlin’ is the hog intestine. It’s not a very appealing cut of meat, and yet African Americans turned it into cuisine, and the culture on the Chitlin’ Circuit is sort of the same thing. I mean, they took what little American society gave them and made something beautiful out of it.”

Integration and the End of an Era

It is an ironic but generally agreed-upon fact that the end of segregation spurred the decline of black business districts like Belmont-DeVilliers.

Gr ay ton 19 68

Original G rayto

n Girl

Kitty Taylor, Broker, GRI, CRS, CIPS Catherine Ryland, Broker Associate

“Grayton Girl Team” Selling Grayton and Beach Properties along 30A.

850.231.2886 | 850.585.5334

133 Defuniak Street, Grayton Beach, FL 32459 www.graytoncoastproperties.com

As the specter of Jim Crow withdrew from the South, many black Americans were eager to explore their new economic freedom. In many cases, that meant venturing into areas that, until then, had been off limits. However, as more and more blacks began to patronize white businesses, black businesses suffered.

“Desegregation—the ability for people who used to work and play in a confined area to go wherever they pleased—definitely upset the economic base for these clubs,” Lauterbach says. Bigger changes in the music industry didn’t help matters, either.

“Being able to make gobs of money in records definitely changed the shape of the music business, and everything got bigger, again, with integration. Black acts could play stadium concerts, venues that had been off limits to them with the old way.”

And, so, the music slowly faded in Belmont-DeVilliers. As businesses moved out, crime and blight muscled in, and the neighborhood’s proud history was all but forgotten.

A Story of Resilience

By the time Robin Reshard arrived in Pensacola in the early 1990s, most of the storefronts in Belmont-DeVilliers had been shuttered for a long time.

She had come to the area to train as a military cryptologist and encountered Belmont-DeVilliers on an informal list of “places not to go” that was given out to new recruits. Intrigued by the unusual-sounding name, she asked some of her colleagues to tell her more.

“That’s where black folks go,” she was told.

“Well, then, that sounds like my kind of place,” she recalls saying.

Reshard first visited the neighborhood one weekend after a night out with friends.

She had a sandwich from the Dwarf Chicken Stand—a late-night neighborhood staple that’s been there for decades—and was hooked. She is now one of the neighborhood’s biggest advocates. She recently completed a documentary on the history of Belmont-DeVilliers, and her production company is headquartered across the street from the Bunny Club in a renovated furniture warehouse owned by architect Eddie Todd and developer Quint Studer.

Reshard is optimistic about the neighborhood’s future—and with good reason.

Downtown Pensacola is booming, and growth is starting to trickle outside the city’s commercial core. As development creeps westward, Belmont-DeVilliers is poised for growth. The signs are already visible.

Todd and Studer’s DeVilliers Square building is one example. The renovated, three-story building houses low-cost office space for a number of small businesses.

The University of West Florida’s Innovation Institute moved into the top floor of the building in January 2014, and Studer Properties moved into the ground floor, relocating from its old digs in downtown Pensacola, last year.

Located just across the street is Five Sisters Blues Cafe. The restaurant, which opened six years ago, sits on the former site of one of the neighborhood’s earliest nightspots, the Two Cronies saloon, which opened in the late 1800s.

The brick building’s association with music and merriment continued well into the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, and the renovated structure was 100 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

26 LANES OF BOWLING ARCADE POOL TABLES AIR HOCKEY PING PONG DARTS GOLDEN TEE LIVE BAR & CAFE

34876 Emerald Coast Pkwy Destin, FL (850) 654-5251

South Walton’s Authentic Community Website www.SoWal.com

The resurgence isn’t really a surprise: it’s very much in keeping with the story of the Blocks—a place that could wring flavor out of something foul and find beauty in the midst of brutality. home to both Gussie’s Record Shop and WBOP radio in decades past. Today, Five Sisters serves up classic soul foods like pot roast, fried chicken, and red beans and rice, and it hosts live jazz and blues performances on the weekends. The restaurant has enjoyed tremendous success since opening and was recently bought by the Great Southern Restaurants group, which also owns Pensacola staples Jackson’s Steakhouse, the Fish House, and Atlas Oyster House. The acquisition is a sign of just how far the neighborhood has come in the last few years.

Around six o’clock in the evening, the final notes fade out over the sidewalks. The holy hopper wipes the last bead of sweat from his brow. The final spoonful of collard juice is savored and the last hallelujahs whispered, and, then, the doors are closed.

To Reshard, the resurgence isn’t really a surprise: it’s very much in keeping with the story of the Blocks—a place that could wring flavor out of something foul and find beauty in the midst of brutality. It is this history that drew her to the neighborhood, and it is this “spirit,” she says, that will sustain the Blocks in the years ahead. “I think our future lies in observing and celebrating our past,” she says. “It’s a story of resilience.”

“The Bunny Club would be popping until twelve, one o’clock in the morning,” he says. “We’d go there, and then to the Elks right around the corner. It was after hours, the Elks Club. And then you got the Saber, and a lot of times, daylight caught us coming up out of there.” He smiles. “But it was good times.”

Jackson moves from his station by the bar and steps through a stage-side door out onto the sidewalk.

While the band members break down the equipment, he reminisces.

Jackson’s cousin, Michael Allen, owns the Bunny Club building and plans to renovate the old Saber Club and reopen it as a sports bar.

Or, maybe, it’s a song.

Back to the Blocks

It’s been an hour since the last brunch stragglers headed home from Five Sisters Blues Cafe. At the Back to Gospel event, things are just winding down.

“We’re trying to bring it back,” Jackson says.

Until that happens, though, he’ll still be there every Sunday at three o’clock—singing gospel and reminiscing.

104 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH

By ANNE W. SCHULTZ Photography by TODD GUSTAFSON / ROY SAFARIS LIMITED

They say you may leave Africa, but Africa never leaves you.

My great-aunt Dora Lee Campbell knew this. I could tell from the sparkle in her eyes when she talked about the five years she and her husband lived in what was then called the Belgian Congo, where her husband had constructed a cotton gin for the Belgian government. Her wild stories came alive as if they happened yesterday instead of back in the 1920s.

Many decades later, after a two-week safari in Tanzania, I discovered this truth for myself. Although it has been several years since my visit, Africa stays close by, huddled in the recesses of my mind until something triggers a memory. In a flash, I’m back with my husband and grown daughter in a mobile tented camp pitched above the Ndutu River following the wildebeest migration through the Serengeti plains. I’m cowering on a cot in a Boy Scout–sized

tent, petrified as the sound of a roaring lion grows louder and louder, reverberating across the black African night like a volcano rumbling from the bowels of the earth. When I realize the fabric of our canvas tent is all that separates us from a hungry lioness now thumping across its plastic veranda, I curl into a fetal position and pray like crazy. Good thing, too; the next morning we find a freshly killed zebra only fifty yards from our tent!

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 105

Be forewarned. Africa comes upon you like a lion. It picks up your scent while you’re riding in the backseat of a Toyota Land Cruiser. It stalks you across the endless Serengeti. It reveals its golden beauty bit by bit. Once in a while it roars, letting you know it’s powerful and close by. It’s not until you arrive home that Africa pounces on you in moments when you’re unaware—like when you’re taking a walk. Then it assaults you in all its majesty and glory. It claws your sensibilities apart and mauls your preconceptions of life before your encounter with it. It’s a continent

Tanzania is the evocative Africa that Ernest Hemingway wrote about and Americans fantasized about when watching movies like Out of Africa and documentaries from National Geographic. Africa’s most iconic landscapes are showcased here: the sweeping Serengeti Plain (which includes Serengeti National Park, considered Africa’s finest), snow-peaked Mount Kilimanjaro (Africa’s highest mountain), the Ngorongoro Crater (the world’s largest intact caldera), Olduvai Gorge (the discovery site of the world’s oldest human skeleton), Lake Victoria, and the Great Rift Valley, to name a few.

“More remarkable still is that this enviable list of landmarks—with the exception of offshore Zanzibar—is concentrated within a mere 10 percent of the country’s

THERE IS NO HIGHER CONCENTRATION OF WILDLIFE ON THE PLANET THAN IN AFRICA, AND NO SAFER DESTINATION FOR WILDLIFE VIEWING THAN TANZANIA—WHICH IS OFTEN CALLED THE SWITZERLAND OF AFRICA. very unlike our own North America, where we feel dominant and in control. If you are not careful, Africa consumes you and makes you its own!

Book a safari in the East African country of Tanzania for this all-consuming experience. We chose to go in February—one of the wildebeest migration seasons—when staying in a mobile tented camp is safe, as millions of wildebeest accompanied by zebra and gazelle distract predators from humans. It’s also calving season, when the short rains produce tender grasses for nourishing newborn calves; these often emerge right before your eyes with pink umbilical cords still attached. According to literature from Roy Safaris Limited, the guides with whom we booked our trip, “Eight thousand wildebeest are born every day for a three-week period.”

There is no higher concentration of wildlife on the planet than in Africa, and no safer destination for wildlife viewing than Tanzania—which is often called the Switzerland of Africa. It’s a peaceful oasis in a sea of political instabilities and tribal rivalries.

Its relative peace is largely due to one man, Julius Nyerere, known as the Teacher. Nyerere promoted what he called “familyhood” through policies of economic cooperation and tribal harmony.

106 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

surface area abutting the border with Kenya,” reports authors of Northern Tanzania: The Bradt Safari Guide with Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar. “And here too, bookended

by Lake Victoria in the west and Kilimanjaro in the east, a bloc of contiguous national parks, game reserves, and other conservation areas forms what is almost certainly the most expansive safari circuit in Africa, and arguably the finest.”

Roy Safaris Limited, a highly recommended local outfitter, designed a safari taking us through this popular northern circuit. Specialists crafted our tour around the Serengeti wildebeest migration and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area with its abundance of large mammals that everyone thrills to see; referred to as the Big Five, they are the African lion, the African elephant, the Cape buffalo, the African leopard, and the white and black rhinoceros. “The company develops various itineraries and makes accommodation suggestions in order to try and meet any traveler’s budget,” says Susan Wood, the company’s US representative.

For a well-rounded perspective, we also visited less splashy but equally rewarding wildlife sanctuaries at Lake Manyara and Tarangire National Park. We included walking safaris through Arusha National Park—a gem rarely visited and rumored to be Hemingway’s favorite—and into Mount Kilimanjaro’s jungle-clad foothills.

For the ultimate bush encounter, nothing beats the small mobile tented camps that follow the migration. We visited a native village to learn more about the culture.

A wildlife spectacle of this magnitude is a spiritual experience requiring focus and silence. It’s best to book a private safari so you can share the vehicle with family members or close friends and not be distracted by small talk with strangers. Leave all electronic devices home in reverence to this awesome, once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 107

WALKING SAFARIS ARUSHA AND KILIMANJARO PARKS

Safari is the Swahili word for journey, and ours began on foot at Arusha National Park. Tanzania’s smallest park is also its most beautiful. Endowed with a variety of landscapes, the park gives a preview of what’s to come all scaled down for an intimate first encounter. A cluster of alkaline lakes attracts flocks of numerous wader birds, including flamingos. There are open grasslands dubbed the Little Serengeti, while Ngurdoto Crater is a miniature version of the Ngorongoro. All is lushly forested and cradled by the slopes of Mount Meru to the west, with Mount Kilimanjaro looming on the eastern skyline.

A walking safari offers a step-by-step transition from an industrialized Western landscape paved over in concrete, cities, and shopping malls into a world described in Genesis. The skies are thick with birds, the plains are covered with animals, and the seas are teeming with marine creatures. Nature reclaims the wildness and the liveliness it had before mankind dominated the scene. Acclimate your senses to an exotic continent that’s like nothing back home.

Feel the hot equatorial sun on your back, breathe in the organic scent of rich volcanic soil borne on gentle breezes, and listen closely for animals rustling through tall, flaxen grasses.

“Lie flat on the ground as it makes it more difficult for buffalo to gore you,” shouts Abdul, our driver and guide. “Buffalo are one of the most dangerous animals to humans, but not as dangerous in herds as when alone.” Somehow that was not reassuring as we stood yards away from a herd pawing the ground with their hoofs while glowering at us. Their pointed horns curved up and toward each other like those on Viking helmets, looking particularly menacing.

Standing right beside wild animals is mind boggling for most Americans whose wildlife encounters are largely confined to backyard squirrels, birds at feeders, and family pets.

In a wilderness populated by animals, the take-charge American is helpless and totally dependent on a guide.

Abdul was like a guardian angel watching over us and teaching us about Africa from the extensive knowledge he had gleaned from his twelve years as a park ranger.

His kind eyes twinkling with humor, his full lips breaking easily into a grin, and his calm yet confident mannerisms made me feel safe and secure right from the beginning.

108 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

We ventured on to Kilimanjaro, one of the tallest mountains anywhere that can be ascended by climbers without specialized skills or equipment. We hiked the lower elevations instead, trekking through a rain forest of tropical trees such as glossy-leaved mangoes, strangler figs, and massive ones with buttressed trunks. It felt like we were in an old Tarzan movie, with monkeys swinging on vines through lush vegetation and parrots squawking. We then drove on to the secluded parks of Tarangire and Manyara for a totally different environment.

TARANGIRE AND MANYARA NATIONAL PARKS Crowds flock to Tarangire during the July-to-November dry season, when the Tarangire River draws one of the highest concentrations of wildlife in northern Africa. During the off season, it’s a tranquil place to observe elephants and other creatures going about their daily routines. In the distance, we saw cheetahs flying across the plains, long-legged, streamlined, and low-slung; the Ferrari of the animal kingdom wins the race for the world’s fastest land mammal. A herd 110 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

of elephants with upswept tusks and swinging trunks lumbered across the road in front of us like we barely existed. They are the world’s largest land mammals and live in matriarchal clans of ten to twenty accompanied by their young. They can even live to be a hundred years old!

The dry, scruffy landscape these creatures inhabit is studded with acacia trees and high densities of ancient baobab trees. Living for thousands of years, the baobabs symbolize God to Africans, as they appear to live forever and provide constant water in their hollow trunks.

On our way from Tarangire to Serengeti, we visited the stunning scenery of Lake Manyara. Viewed from across miles of floodplains, tens of thousands of flamingos appeared as a hazy pink mist rising above the water. This shallow alkaline lake sits at the base of the Rift Valley escarpment, a solid rock wall extending from Turkey to Mozambique. Besides its prolific bird life, Manyara is known for its tree-climbing leopards and its hippos, easily seen as they bathe in pools, partially submerged like gray submarines. “Never get between a hippo and water,” Abdul advised us, “or you’re a goner.”

WILDEBEEST MIGRATION AND SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK Rains come and succulent grasses sprout, spreading a carpet of green across the Serengeti, a Maasai word for “endless plains.” As if urged on by an inner voice, wildebeest start moving. “To be surrounded by hundreds of thousands of wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles, stretching as far as the eye can see—and the sounds and the smell—this is the essence of Africa. It stays in your heart forever,” says Jane Goodall, famous worldwide for her revolutionary studies of Tanzania’s chimpanzees. A safari vehicle is your ticket to a front-row seat at this spectacle, often called the Greatest Show on Earth.

A narrow dirt road took our safari into the midst of grazing herds so close we could have reached out and touched a wildebeest’s shaggy head as it bent low to munch grass. Zebras stood guard in pairs, resting their heads on each other’s rumps to see in both directions. The landscape was alive with motion as buffalo, zebras, and elephants appeared on the scene, and predators slunk through grasses spooking animals that leaped and skittered away. A fuller spectrum of life

was revealed to me through this panorama of the wild kingdom. A raw energy courses through the Serengeti—spontaneous, energizing, and so free it makes our manufactured world seem rigid and sterile.

The creatures looked regal, clothed like royalty in luxurious furs, feathers, and leathery hides. Bold geometric lines and stunning designs added dramatic flair: the expressive markings on a cheetah’s face, the black line running like a tear from the corner of its inner eyes down to the outside corners of its mouth, and the black polka dots precisely placed on its golden fur. The majestic mane that crowns a lion. The iridescent plumage of lilac-breasted roller birds dipped in the watery blue, lavender, and tangerine hues of a sunset over the Indian Ocean. The world felt less empty and more complete with the addition of animals we once communed with when the world was young.

It seems we humans are lonesome for animals, judging from our undying devotion to our pets. They fill a void in our lives. They teach us how to play and run, how to cuddle, and how to receive the unconditional love sometimes lacking in our two-legged species. Marketing experts tap into this attachment by increasing the use of animals in commercials to sell products. Abdul spoke to us of his particular adoration for lions. “I feel blessed every day I see a lion,” he shared.

Nothing prepares you for the first sighting of Africa’s largest predator. You understand why C.S. Lewis used 112 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

the lion as the symbol for Christ in his Chronicles of Narnia series. We came upon a pride lolling by the roadside. A lone male slept beside four females all on their backs, stretched out with feet in the air.

Suddenly the male turned amorous and, with what looked like great tenderness and affection, licked the face of the nearest lioness. In the eyes of a lion, we saw our own emotions mirrored.

NGORONGORO CRATER

wild animals exist in harmony,” according to the official website.

Perhaps this peaceful coexistence foreshadows what’s to come as prophesied by Isaiah. Created before humans and spared during the flood, wild animals have always been included in the creation story.

They remain an integral part of God’s restoration plans for the earth. He is still busy in the redemptive process of healing, renewing, and transforming creation until peace and harmony are restored.

It looks like Noah emptied the ark at the Ngorongoro Crater, where steep-sided walls create a natural amphitheater surrounding over twenty-five thousand large mammals. The densest concentration of predators in Africa roams the crater floor. Five hundred bird species also thrive there; one common resident is the kori bustard, considered the world’s heaviest flying bird. Ostriches are also seen, as are crowned cranes and flocks of migrant storks.

Our job is to preserve these magnificent creatures so the drumbeat of hoofs across the endless plains and the roaring of a lion may still be heard for generations to come.

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area is also home to the Maasai. Tribesmen may tote cell phones, but they also carry spears and wear bright red-and-purple plaid togas, preferring a traditional pastoral lifestyle to a modern one. They continue to live among wild creatures, tending the cattle that provide their food and clothing as they have for centuries. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this conservation area is “the only place on earth where mankind and

Read Northern Tanzania: The Bradt Safari Guide with Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar for detailed information before your trip.

For more safari information and reservations, contact Roy Safaris Limited at www.roysafaris.com or contact their US representative at www.awaytoafricasafaris.com.

Cork is Popping Out of

Wine Bottles and into

Your Home

B y To r i P h e l p s P h o t o g ra p h y c o u r t e s y o f Q u e o r k

114 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

“It’s like elves and unicorns make this stuff; you can’t say anything bad about it.” Amanda Dailey’s life revolves around cork and the luxury goods she designs with it, so it’s possible that she’s a tad biased. Still, this Queen of Cork, co-owner of New Orleans–based Queork (pronounced “cork”), might just be onto something. After spending a few minutes with her, the elves-and-unicorns theory starts to sound plausible.

Fa l l i n g for Cor k

Get ready: The cork you’ve only known as wine stoppers and dartboards is taking on a whole new life. It’s kind of like seeing a lifelong friend croon her way to the American Idol finals. “Wait a minute,” you might marvel. “You can do that?”

It turns out that cork has been holding out on us.

In the hands of Dailey and co-owner/partner Julie Araujo, cork transforms into handbags, smartphone cases, and even furniture. Thanks to Queork’s new location along Scenic Highway 30-A in Grayton Beach, Florida, residents and visitors to the area have a front-row seat to the many possibilities.

Dailey is an unlikely ambassador for cork. A Tulsa native who decamped to New Orleans in 2010, her background was in real estate—not design. However, a trip to Portugal with Araujo changed the course of her life. It all started with Dailey’s pursuit of a new dog collar that wouldn’t mildew when her Bernese mountain dog got wet. “I walked into a shop that had a belt and a hat made from cork, and it immediately made sense to me,” she recalls. “I thought, ‘Why isn’t this everywhere?’”

These products are not unusual in Portugal, where the economy depends on cork, but they caused a lightbulb moment for Dailey, who realized that cork’s light weight and water-repellent qualities would make for the perfect dog collar. The only problem was that she couldn’t find one.

A Portuguese manufacturer refused to make her one; he would, however, make her five hundred. Undeterred, she visited a pet shop upon her return to the United States and lucked into a meeting with a pet-goods distributor in the middle of an aisle. After Dailey explained the benefits of a cork dog collar, the distributor agreed to buy some of the collars. That deal didn’t launch her business, but it did launch a lifestyle.

She became obsessed with cork and began buying cork material online, which she paid a craftsman to turn into goods for her personal use. Soon, Dailey was dubbed the Queen of Cork, and everyone wanted what the queen had. Realizing that there was a business in her obsession, she nabbed a booth at a local arts festival. She displayed thirty-six cork handbags she had designed; they sold out in a matter of hours. “The styles weren’t even that good,” she admits.

“ T h e y ’ r e p r o ba b ly wo r k i n g w i t h t r e es t h e i r g r a n d fat h e r s p l a n t e d. I t ’ s v e ry m u c h i n t h e fa m i ly — n ot s o m e t h i n g yo u j u s t g e t i n to.”

Araujo suggested they name their fledgling business Queork (a combination of “queen” and “cork” and a nod to the cork tree’s Latin name, Quercus suber).

Araujo, who partnered with Dailey but who also works in another industry, uses her fluency in Portuguese to communicate with their suppliers.

While Dailey became an undeniable expert in cork, she wasn’t—and still isn’t—a trained designer. That’s a good thing, she believes: “Because I’m not a designer by trade, I’m not offended when people offer suggestions. On the contrary, I listen to what they want.”

Her designs take shape through the magic of the cork oak tree. While all trees have a thin layer of cork in their bark, the cork oak has a thick layer that can regenerate after the bark is harvested. It’s the only tree that survives the removal of its outer layer of bark. In fact, a cork oak whose bark is harvested lives much longer than one with unharvested bark. It’s the very definition of a renewable, sustainable resource.

The trees are mainly found in the Mediterranean region, and about 50 to 60 percent are in Portugal. “When you’re driving down the highways in Portugal, it seems every tree is a cork tree,” Dailey swears, but they’re more than landscaping.

Cork oaks are essential to the country’s economy, and they are (unsurprisingly) practically revered by its citizens. Caring for and protecting these trees is just part of being Portuguese. The people who harvest the bark by hand are especially diligent about their jobs. “They’re probably working with trees their grandfathers planted. It’s very much in the family—not something you just get into,” Dailey explains of the profession. “The cork knows where to pull off from the tree, but they have to be really careful. If they go too deep, they can kill the tree, and killing a cork oak can land you in trouble.”

No pressure.

Cov eri ng t he World i n Cork

The inextricable link between Portugal and cork oaks was driven home after a massive fire about eight years ago practically decimated the economy. Though cork oaks don’t burn (they’re known as Mother Nature’s answer to forest fires), they do smoke. That smoke caused a fungus on the trees. Harvesters were hesitant to gather bark for fear that fungus in a wine cork could contaminate the wine.

Almost overnight, wineries worldwide had to find a synthetic alternative to cork.

However, when the fungus threat passed, only 60 percent of the wineries returned to cork. They had discovered that plastic versions cost three cents, compared to $1.30 for cork.

One popular misconception, which some wineries perpetuate as a way to explain their choice to use cheaper plastic stoppers, is that there’s a cork shortage. “People think they’re doing the right thing by avoiding wine with corks,” Dailey says.

Cork oaks actually are endangered, but there’s no shortage. Portugal alone has enough to support the world’s cork needs for the next century. The trees have been classified as “endangered” in Portugal since 1928 because that is the only way to legally prevent people from cutting them down. Not only are these trees good for the economy, but they are also part of the lifeblood of the planet.

Cork oaks are second only to rainforest trees in how much carbon dioxide they pull from the air. Because harvested cork oaks live much longer than their unharvested brethren, it’s crucial to the environment to keep gathering their bark.

That’s good, as Queork has plenty of uses for it. Dailey calls cork the new (and much improved) leather. For starters, cork is so light that it floats, thanks to a cellular structure that resembles air-filled balloons. A handbag made of leather, on the other hand, is heavy even before you put anything into it. Cork moves with you, but leather stretches out of shape. Cork is vegan and considered the most eco-friendly material in the world. Leather is, well, not.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 117

T h e r at i n g o n i t s c o r k m at e r i a l i s eq u i va l e n t to t h at o f u p h o l s t e rygrade vinyl.

118 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Another benefit of Queork’s products is their durability. The rating on its cork material is equivalent to that of upholstery-grade vinyl. This means that anywhere you can put high-quality vinyl—such as cars, boats, or chairs—you can put this cork, and it will hold up for just as long. A silicone coating seals the cork material completely, so practically everything washes right off with water. Wine, coffee, and dirt? Bring ’em on.

If all of that doesn’t convince you, the material’s soft, suede-like texture will.

“The number one thing people ask when they come into the store is, ‘Can I touch it?’” Dailey says. “And then a week later they come in and say, ‘All I do is pet my new bag.’”

Perhaps that’s why the mad rush for Queork bags hasn’t lessened since that first street fair. Its best-selling product is a handbag called the Flapper—a remarkably versatile gem that can be worn as a small, folded bag, a larger bag, or a clutch.

“When we first put it out, people were literally fighting over it,” Dailey recalls.

“We still can’t keep them in stock.”

Queork also offers a popular line of cell-phone cases, accessories from umbrellas to bowties, and—of course—dog collars. Perhaps most popular now is the line of cork shoes exclusively carried by Queork. We’re not just talking cork soles—the entire shoe is made of cork. “We really lucked out to have partnered with a young company in Portugal that is producing shoes for us that are beautifully designed and incredibly well made,” says Dailey. “Our biggest challenge is keeping up with demand; they fly off the shelves.”

The company’s newest venture is a furniture collection that includes tables and upholstered wingback and club chairs. This expansion is a direct result of consumer demand. Queork has always sold cork fabric by the yard, which allows customers (or their upholsterers) to re-cover existing furniture. Many customers, however, wanted ready-to-buy furnishings.

Emerald Coast residents and visitors get to peruse the furnishing line in Queork’s new Grayton Beach store. It’s the company’s third brick-and-mortar location, in addition to the flagship French Quarter and Santa Fe, New Mexico, stores. Queork is strategic about locating in vacation destinations so that customers can do the company’s marketing for them. When people return home with their new cork accessories, Dailey explains, they spark conversations and a corresponding spike in Internet sales.

That’s exactly what happened when Monica Giorgetti bought a bag while visiting Sandestin, Florida, from Texas. She stumbled upon Queork, and while she’d never seen or heard about cork products before, she quickly became a convert. She was sold on the material’s stain resistance (employees poured wine on a handbag to demonstrate), its mold and odor resistance, and its environmental benefits, and she purchased several products. People took notice of her purchases as soon as she returned home. “I was visiting a builder here in North Dallas, and the builder’s representative was so impressed with the shoulder bag I had that she was ready to order one,” Giorgetti reports.

Louis Louis is the sister restaurant of Picolo's restaurant and the Red Bar in Grayton beach.

LIVE

ARRIVE EARLY, STAY LATE. CASH OR CHECK ONLY, NO CREDIT CARDS. THERE IS AN ATM ON SITE.

LIVE MUSIC 7 NIGHTS A WEEK LIVE MUSIC ON SATURDAY DURING LUNCH FROM 12:00 TO 3:00 WITH THE FOREST WILLIAMS BAND

MUSIC

DREAD CLAMPITT DURING SUNDAY BRUNCH 12 PM – 3 PM

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK LUNCH & DINNER 11 AM – 10 PM BAR OPEN FROM 11 AM – 11 PM (12 AM ON FRIDAY AND SATURDAY)

(850) 231-1008

WWW.THEREDBAR.COM

“Best Restaurant in Walton County” “Best Bloody Mary”

TOP 200

ARRIVE EARLY, STAY LATE. WE NOW ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS: VISA, MASTERCARD, AND DISCOVER THERE IS AN ATM ON SITE DINNER TUESDAY – SATURDAY, 5 PM – 9 PM

(850) 267-1500 | WWW.LOUISLOUIS.NET | 35 MUSSETT BAYOU RD.

That “gotta have it” reaction is typical, even though Queork products don’t come in a rainbow of colors. Cork can be dyed, and a few Queork products are, but the dyeing process is in its infancy. Instead, Queork typically uses accent colors and trim to tempt people whose tastes run to more colorful handbags.

The company also incorporates natural patterns, such as a tiger-stripe design, to add a little variety.

The company’s expansion into Grayton Beach has Dailey thinking about a new direction for future cork items—specifically, children’s products. The area is much more family oriented than the company’s New Orleans home base, and that has her pondering teen fashions and diaper bags, and incredibly cute cork baby and kids’ shoes. “It’s fantastic because it’s so different,” she says of the Emerald Coast. “It’s taught us so much and keeps us actively diversifying our lines.”

We can’t wait to see what’s next.

www.queork.com MOS_halfpage_ShrimpShack-Dawson_VIE.pdf 1 12/14/2015 5:20:31 PM

locally-owned and operated boutiques & restaurants

Heavenly & Bill Dawson at the Shrimp Shack

122 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Honoring the

OLD NEW and Welcoming the

By LAUREN LEGÉ and STEFAN DAIBERL Photography by STEFAN DAIBERL

Rooted in a legacy of local tradition, Austria’s Bregenzerwald, or Bregenz Forest, serves as a model for the marriage of tradition and trend, local and global, and old and new.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 123

What feels like one winding road weaving through the forest’s borderless villages of Egg, Andelsbuch, and Bezau, among others, is a maze of times past and present.

In the Bregenz Forest, time swells up in areas and falls back in others, like the heaping mountains and vast pastures that wrap around it, enclosing it like a fog. “Fog” is a good word for the forest, because much like the contrast between warm and cool air that make up a mist, the framework of Bregenzerwald is a contrast of old and new, in oscillation, to make something visible, beautiful, and mysterious.

With the right perspective, one will see how worn wooden shingles fall from farms and blow across grazed grass to the marvelous collection of concrete and wood siding that makes up the neighbor’s contemporary home.

If one had traveled this road in the tenth and eleventh centuries, he or she would have been migrating to the forest from Bregenz, Austria, about forty-five miles away. The vast majority of his or her new neighbors would have survived on the yields of their grain and dairy farms—a difficult subsistence, given the climate and the rugged, mountainous terrain.

124 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Establishing clusters of small farms became the key to survival for migrants, who often had only four or five cows, a parcel of land, and a farming knowledge stretched to cover the needs of an entire community. By necessity, farmers also became carpenters, shoemakers, veterinarians, seamstresses, parents, philosophers, and much more. The necessary skillfulness of the Alpine dairymen and women formed the foundation of excellence found in today’s woodworking, cheese making, and architectural production in the Bregenz Forest region.

Not only did the pressures of life bring forth a stark sensibility toward craftsmanship and a measured use of local resources, but they also created a community knit closely together to form a fabric of survival that would soon become Austria’s most beautifully woven union of thirty thousand inhabitants, eighty-two carpentry shops, seventeen dairy plants, and over ninety mountain dairy producers, all blanketing an area of only 215 square miles.

In 1999, eighty-five regional craftsmen and women united in a commitment to uphold excellence and a common aesthetic language among their crafts, in a cooperative effort to form what is known today as Werkraum Bregenzerwald.

Werkraum is the region’s engine for innovation and growth in trade, as well as an assurance for consistency in quality and aesthetics. Werkraum’s current home, a visionary showcase designed by Pritzker Architecture Prize–winning architect Peter Zumthor, was built in 2013 and serves as the headquarters for collaborating craftspeople in the region.

With open doors, a linear café, a kitchen offering local foods, and works on display for purchase, Werkraum has reach not only to its local craftspeople, but into the rest of the community as well—namely, the natives with ideas and passions and the youths who would otherwise leave their roots to find work in cities if there were no outlet to foster their creativity at home.

“Many other rural regions struggle with the departure of skilled workers and the dying of the trades,” says Susanne Schedler, executive assistant of Werkraum Bregenzerwald. “In Bregenzerwald, this is not the case. There are secure, attractive jobs for the youth, and a continuous flow of young craftspeople who venture into

Visitors walk a path of burnt-orange flags through pastures made musical by dozens of bell-adorned cattle. entrepreneurship and build successful businesses.

The Werkraum, as a platform for networking and collaboration and a mediator between the offerings of different craftsmen, is certainly playing an important role.”

By incorporating the community, Werkraum inspires the interests and aspirations of its young people and keeps them engaged, which in turn keeps Bregenzerwald as a place of the present that honors the past but does not become outdated.

Of Werkraum’s efforts to engage the community, the most elaborate—and perhaps the most internationally celebrated—is the triennial Handwerk+Form competition and exhibition. During this time, the craftsmen and women of the village of Andelsbuch open the doors to their ancient workshops, allowing visitors a peek into their traditional world.

Visitors walk a path of burnt-orange flags through pastures made musical by dozens of bell-adorned cattle (and perhaps a proud rooster) to the studios of architects and artisans showcasing their crafts.

To finalize the event, an international jury awards a series of prizes to the best products showcased

during the event. The next Handwerk+Form show will take place in 2018. Tickets may be purchased on-site, and the Werkraum can also be visited during business hours.

“Certainly, the whole region has received more media attention because of the strong trades and unified marketing platform,” says Schedler.

As a direct result of local entities such as Werkraum Bregenzerwald, the region has not fallen victim to the pressures of globalization. It has managed to successfully expand its reputation as a producer of superior woodwork, visionary architecture, and gourmet foods.

Take, for example, the phenomenal Bus:Stop Krumbach project, in which seven designers from around the world created cutting-edge structures to serve as bus stops within the traditional village infrastructure of the Bregenz Forest. Each foreign architect worked with a local architectural counterpart to realize seven modern bus stops, creating a dialogue between modern architecture and the traditional landscape.

Of the foods produced in the Bregenz Forest region, its dairy products are the most renowned. For centuries,

The specific character of Bregenz Forest cheeses is attributable to the unique three-stage farming technique practiced by local dairy farmers for centuries.

dairy and cheese, rather than grain-based foods, have formed the nutritional foundation for the region’s inhabitants. As early as the eighteenth century, the local mountain cheeses were purchased by the Austrian monarchy, noblemen in Italy, and others in Europe for their delicate taste.

The specific character of Bregenz Forest cheeses is attributable to the unique three-stage farming technique practiced by local dairy farmers for centuries. In this process, which was entered into the Austrian national UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2011, dairy cows spend the cold winter months in a barn, eating air-dried valley hay. They spend the spring and fall at around threethousand-foot elevations on mountain pastures and 126 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

the summer at higher altitudes. Not only does this process avoid the overgrazing of pastures, but it also results in extraordinarily flavorful milk, butter, and cheese.

Throughout the year, farmers, dairymen, cheese makers, restaurants, inns, museums, railways, and tourist organizations participate in the Bregenzerwald Cheese Trail (KäseStrasse Bregenzerwald). The trail invites visitors to stroll through the villages of the Bregenz Forest and explore their traditional products through tastings, demonstrations, museum exhibits, and special events. One highlight of the trail is the Alpine Dairy Farming Museum in Hittisau, where participants can see the traditional tools and techniques of mountain cheese making.

What is remarkable about the Bregenz Forest is its preservation of quality, community, and local identity in the face of globalization. There are numerous examples around the world of economies based on small-scale family businesses in the fishing, textile, or farming industries that have disappeared as a result of industrialization, leaving behind fractured lands and villages. The Bregenz Forest

region has managed to escape this destiny and has successfully expanded its global reputation as a producer, making the Bregenzerwald brand synonymous with excellence.

“Many Wälder, as we call the inhabitants of the Bregenzerwald, come back to the forest again and again,” says Schedler. “Some go study in the bigger cities—to Vienna, Innsbruck, Zurich—but when they start planning a family, many come back. I think that when you are raised as a child in the country, it is hard to imagine raising your kids in the city. I was born and raised here in the Bregenzerwald, and as much as I like traveling, I could not imagine living in another place. There is nothing more beautiful than to march straight into the woods or onto a cross-country ski run right from your front door.”

When visiting the Bregenzerwald, one will not only find a fantastically beautiful natural environment,

but also experience the prospering of ancient traditions firsthand. “We honor the old, welcome the new, and remain true to ourselves and our home,” wrote Gebhard Wölfle, a nineteenth-century Bregenz Forest poet. Therein may well lie the secret to the success of this region, which is well worth a visit.

More information on Werkraum Bregenzerwald can be found www.werkraum.at. Learn more about the area and the Bregenzerwald Cheese Trail at www.bregenzerwald.at and the Bus:Stop Krumbach project at www. kulturkrumbach.at.

Stefan Daiberl is a global artist specializing in woodworking and photography. Lauren Legé is a writer who concentrates on poetry and journalism; she is also a realtor in the Northwest Florida region. They traveled to Austria together in order to cowrite this story.

OUR NATIONAL TREASURES Story and photography by Bill Weckel

National parks are the best idea we ever had.

Absolutely American, absolutely democratic, they reflect us at our best rather than our worst. — Wallace Stegner, Writer and Historian

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 131

O

n March 1, 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed into law a congressional act deeding more than two million acres of Wyoming Territory as “a public park or pleasuring-ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.” The act gave birth to America’s first national park: Yellowstone.

Forty-four years later, the Organic Act of 1916 would create the National Park Service and define its mission: “ . . . to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wild life therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” Its annual budget was set at $8,100.

The choice of the words “conserve” and “unimpaired” must not be undervalued. They are greater than the sum of their parts and brilliant in their unambiguity.

Today, Americans enjoy fifty-nine national parks and hundreds of national monuments, battlefields, cemeteries, and protected lands—the care of each entrusted to the National Park Service.

The parks have always been popular destinations, but in recent years this popularity has soared. The tolls imposed by an overly urban and technologically dependent society seem to have spurred an insatiable desire to rediscover, return to, and reconnect (at least briefly) with the environment and the raw landscape that man has called his “home” for the past few hundred millennia. If there’s spirituality to the natural world, the national parks are surely its meccas, with more than 280 million faithful making pilgrimages each year.

While every state offers opportunities to experience its own natural beauty, it should come as no surprise that the majority of the national parks lie west of the Mississippi. The expansive and majestic American West can still be described as largely wild and unmolested when compared to the East.

On the eve of the hundredth anniversary of the National Park Service, I, too, was called west. My journey was timed to coincide with the turning of the aspens and the fall elk rut in Rocky Mountain National Park. Flying into Denver, I made the short drive north to Estes Park, which would serve as my base camp for daily trips into the park. At high altitude, the days were

132 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Today, Americans enjoy fifty-nine national parks and hundreds of national monuments, battlefields, cemeteries, and protected lands.

warm, the nights cool, and the skies clear—ideal conditions for viewing and photographing herds of elk and hiking alpine trails. My days were spent hiking, while mornings and evenings were spent watching the elk and listening to their mating calls, known as “bugling.”

My next stop would be Moab, Utah. Moab, on the Colorado River, allowed me to kill two very big birds with one stone. It’s conveniently situated between two of the service’s most popular parks: Canyonlands and Arches. With daily high temperatures in the low 90s and visitor counts relatively low, October is a perfect time to visit these Utah parks. The red desert rock of eastern Utah offers a dramatic contrast to the aspencovered grey granite of the Colorado Rockies.

Another great contrast is found in the wildlife. In the Rockies, life is vibrant. In the high desert of eastern Utah, it’s fossilized.

Eastern Utah is dinosaur country. It’s also one of the great sources of petroglyphs—carvings and paintings created by our prehistoric ancestors. The parks need little in the way of introduction. Arches National Park is home to more than a thousand natural rock arch formations and monuments, while Canyonlands is a seemingly endless maze of high mesas, deep canyons, and hoodoos (natural rock columns that often form into remarkable shapes).

Visiting three parks in the space of two weeks was both wonderful and frustrating. I could have spent a month in each park and still left feeling as though I didn’t have enough time to even scratch the surface of what they have to offer. Our national parks are addictive and like any true addict, I was thinking about my next “high” before loading up the Jeep for the drive back to Denver.

I’ve been to five of the seven continents and I’ve sailed nine of the world’s seas and oceans. I can honestly say that there’s no place like home. I’ve never experienced elsewhere the sheer natural beauty and preserved diversity that we enjoy in the United States. Our national parks are the showcases of this beauty and diversity—the envy of the world and our greatest national treasures.

Take part in the centennial anniversary celebration of the National Park Service by experiencing one of the fifty-nine National Parks located throughout the United States and its dependencies. To learn more, visit www.nps.gov.

134 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

P R I M E

S T E A K S

&

S E A F O O D

SAVOR THE CLASSIC & SOPHISTICATED Relying on an array of fresh, seasonally inspired ingredients, Executive Chef Dan Vargo creates the most unforgettable meals found on the Emerald Coast. With hand selected prime steaks, Gulf-to-table seafood, craft cocktails and more than 600 wines, Seagar’s prides itself in providing the most decadent and indulgent meals.

R E SE R VAT I ON S

8 5 0 - 6 2 2-1 5 0 0 Located at Hilton Sandestin Beach Golf Resort & Spa 4000 Sandestin Blvd. S., Miramar Beach, FL 32550 Seagars.com | Contact@Seagars.com

Enjoy 20% off your next stay when you BOOK NOW!* Book at any of our Panama City Beach resorts using promo code GETAWAY and receive 20% off along with these great perks: Âť FREE round of golf at Hombre Golf Club with each stay Âť FREE Resort Collection Rewards Card

W W W. R E S O R T C O L L E C T I O N . C O M | 8 4 4 . 2 5 8 . 2 5 0 5 *Restrictions: Based on availability. Blackout dates may apply. Two-night minimum stay required. Tax and fees additional.

Not valid on existing reservations. Offer not available at En Soleil. Other restrictions may apply.

WONDERLAND WANDERLUST MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

By JACOB SUMMERS

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 137

T

here are very few places I feel more at home than in the woods. I’m a very cerebral individual; my brain never turns off, except when I sleep—and sometimes not even then.

When I can force my mind to slow down for five minutes, I still feel bombarded by new stimuli: the color of the side of a barn; the article I am supposed to be working on for my website; or the numerous adult responsibilities that being a married military man entails.

When I go out to the woods, I’m still me. I still have my thoughts. I still get bombarded by stimuli, but the stimuli are now soothing and natural. The woods inspire me to slow down and think about things one at a time instead of trying to process them all at once.

Any place that can do that for me is home.

Mount Rainier National Park is one of those places I feel at home. It stands in good company with places such as the Marin Headlands and Big Sur in California, Mount Rushmore in South Dakota, the Grand Canyon in Arizona, and Cherokee in North Carolina’s Great Smoky Mountains.

While I was stationed with the Army in Washington State, I was blessed to have been able to hike Mount Rainier and its surroundings at least four times. I remember the time I hiked to Comet Falls with the chaplain from my base; the time I hiked at Paradise with my wife; the time I hiked at Sunrise with Justin, one of my closest friends; and the time I attempted the Wonderland Trail.

Every one of those times is a memory I would never want to lose, that I wish I could relive in my sleep each night—even my failing to complete the Wonderland Trail. We hiked it for two days, but my body gave out on me and then we had to double back down to get to the car before midnight. Even then, as we sat at our last lunch break before turning back, the beauty of Mount Rainier stunned me, and I felt at peace with our decision.

Photos by Jacob Summers

138 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Besides, I’m going back. But this time, I’ll be better prepared. Hiking ninety-plus miles in ten days with a net elevation change of twenty thousand feet is no laughing matter, regardless of how much you prepare. It’s especially no laughing matter when your friend has to ditch his pack and run the last four miles back to the car while you wait in an abandoned quarry near a washed-out road with night creeping in and the woods beginning to howl.

WALKING ALONG THE TRAILS THAT BRANCH OUT FROM THE PARADISE ENTRANCE, YOU CAN SEE THE SUMMIT SMILING DOWN UPON YOU AS YOU WADE THROUGH FLOWERY SLOPES AND GROVES. But that story can wait. Let’s turn back to my love for Mount Rainier.

Mount Rainer is like no other national park I have ever visited. The main peak looms before you, no matter where you are on the trail. From the outset, trailblazers made paths so that you could turn at any time to see the enormous summit. Walking along the trails that branch out from the Paradise entrance, you can see the summit smiling down upon you as you wade through flowery slopes and groves.

As you rise and fall with the gradients of the trail leading from the Sunrise entrance down into the White River campground, Rainier peeks out from behind

the craggy hillsides and dark-green tree line to remind you how small you really are. While you hike the Wonderland Trail, you can count on seeing the mountain’s peak at least every half hour (if not more often) and frequently at the most unexpected times. It’s a real reward after you’ve just hiked up something aptly titled “Devil’s Dream.”

There is another natural beauty within Mount Rainier National Park: its various ecosystems and animal life. In my handful of hikes, I have seen beautiful rows of huckleberry bushes, bright-pink flowers, golden fields, and even a bit of marshland.

At one point, Justin said he felt like he should have pledged himself to a quest

Photo by Jacob Summers

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 139

I CONSIDER MOUNT RAINIER TO BE ONE OF THE MOST AWE-INSPIRING AMERICAN TREASURES THAT I HAVE EVER HAD THE HONOR TO EXPLORE. with a party of elves and men—the slopes around us seemed right out of the Lord of the Rings.

We also encountered herds of goats that stayed within about a hundred meters of us at all times. A pika darted between and around us as we ate on the rocks—it could scamper from me to the opposite hill in about ten seconds. We even encountered a fox that we might otherwise have missed if a nice couple on the path in front of us hadn’t pointed it out.

I’ve hiked in many parks. I grew up with two parents and four brothers who liked to spend vacations driving around the country and stopping at as many parks and historic sites as we could along the way. I owe my love of the Grand Canyon and other parks to those experiences with my family.

I consider Mount Rainier to be one of the most awe-inspiring American treasures that I have ever had the honor to explore. I love my dear sweet home in Alabama, and I will grace the foot trails of the Appalachians with my walking stick quite often from now on, but nothing will ever replace that mountain in my heart.

It’s easy to see why Theodore Roosevelt was inspired to preserve such scenic wonders as Mount Rainier. I found myself speaking softly in its presence; anything I had to say on that trail, even to one of my closest friends, was drowned out by everything the mountain had to tell me.

140 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Owners Club + Pavilion, Rosemary Beach, Collaboration with DAG Architects

McWhorter Vallée Reese Design, Inc. LIVE YOUR STYLE. mvr.design • mcwhortervalleereese.com 2050 West County Highway 30-A, Suite M1-211 Santa Rosa Beach, Florida 32459

(850) 660-6675 Florida License: AA26003107

A FOODIE’S DESERT ESCAPE:

PHOENIX, ARIZONA

BY SUSAN BENTON

W

ith an abundance of new resorts, refreshed hotels, and incredible spas, it’s no wonder so many people call Phoenix an oasis in the desert. Upon my arrival this summer, I was whisked right through the triple-digit temperatures and into a cool cab that took me to the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, a resort known for its Spanish Colonial architecture and AAA Five-Diamond rating.

I love when business and pleasure collide. After settling in my room with a private balcony overlooking lush scenery and a waterfall, I made my way to one of the pools to relax before heading to dinner.

The Fairmont Scottsdale Princess is a kid-friendly, pet-friendly spa retreat and golfer’s paradise that offers four amazing restaurants on the property. I was fortunate to dine at La Hacienda by Richard Sandoval on my first night. The modern Mexican cuisine created by Chef Forest Hamrick is in a class by itself, so it’s no wonder La Hacienda was voted the number one Mexican restaurant in Arizona by AZ Business Magazine from 2012 to 2015. The restaurant’s motto, “Old Hands, New Ways,” is definitely reflected in the food. The guacamole, presented three ways, was creative and packed with flavor, and the tequila bar showcased over two hundred varieties. Of course, there is a very knowledgeable— not to mention beautiful—tequila goddess on

144 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

hand to create tastings and suggest pairings with the menu. The snakebite is a must-try!

Joe’s Farm Grill was my destination the next morning, and I was excited to try it out, having seen it featured on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.

Located in the quaint suburb of Gilbert, the restaurant offers a farm-to-table experience where the produce is harvested, prepared, and served all in the same day. Owner Joe Johnston grew up on the property, which was his family’s cotton farm in the 1960s, and the restaurant is currently located in the original house. Although it has been updated, the building keeps the retro architecture of its time— and it’s an incredible environment in which to nosh on a burger topped with a fresh egg from the farm. Make mine a double, please.

The neighborhood surrounding Joe’s Farm Grill is called Agritopia, and it boasts over 160 acres of certified organic farmland with pathways that allow residents and visitors to view the crops. Fruit trees, rows of produce, chickens, and sheep fill the landscape along with more than 450 single-family homes, each with a front porch to encourage conversation.

Johnston and his family all reside nearby and work with the farm, the farm stand, and the restaurants on-site. The farm supplies area chefs and purveyors

Photo courtesy of Greater Phoenix CVB

with food and acts as a co-op as well as a place for those who just want their own small plot to tend. A senior retirement community and a charter school are also nearby, making Agritopia a traditional neighborhood for multiple generations.

Next on my agenda: a visit to a family-owned flour mill featured in the documentary The Grain Divide.

Here, heirloom wheat is transformed into flour with minimal processing. Hayden Flour Mills at Sossaman Farms in Queen Creek showed me a few trendy pasta-making techniques as well as future products such as artisan breads, wheat berries, bourbon, craft beer, and grain-based oils. I shoved a free bag of ground cornmeal into my purse and used it when I got home to make corn bread; I added a spoonful of rendered Benton’s bacon fat to the batter. The decadent outcome was great alongside a plate of farmers’ market field peas. Keep the folks at Hayden on your radar!

Photo courtesy of Joe’s Farm Grill

Photo by Grace Stufkosky

146 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Another important stop for me was Queen Creek Olive Mill, one of Arizona’s top-five foodie destinations.

This impressive farm is the only family-owned and operated olive mill in Arizona. The base of the San Tan Mountains, an area known for its fertile soil,

long sunny days, and cool desert nights, provides ideal conditions for the olive trees to thrive. The mill offers tours and tastings, and also ships a variety of oils and gifts. I certainly took advantage. You will not want to leave without indulging in a Tuscaninspired gourmet sandwich, panino, hearty soup, salad, or gelato at the eatery, not to mention an espresso at Superstition Coffee, their local roastery.

Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. is the trendy place to enjoy a refreshing Refuge IPA and an afternoon among friends.

Arizona is famous for microbreweries, but Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. was Gilbert’s first. It opened in 2013 and quickly moved up the ranks to be named top new brewer in the world by RateBeer.com in 2014. The brewery uses ingredients from local farms in its artisanal ales. It also serves great bites such as Bavarian pretzel sticks accompanied by beer cheese and beer mustard, and baskets of hand-cut fries cooked in duck fat and served with house garlic

aioli. This is a trendy place to enjoy a refreshing Refuge IPA with friends in the afternoon.

Photo by Shawn Parker

Don’t miss dinner at Blue Hound Kitchen in the heart of downtown Phoenix. Here you’ll find seasonal American fare meant for sharing and pairing with craft cocktails, wine, beer, and the Salt River Valley’s largest selection of brown spirits. The establishment has gastro-lounge food that is tuned to the modern desert lifestyle, skipping heavy creams in favor of lighter methods to bring out the flavors of the ingredient-driven menu. Executive chef Sean Currid uses his top connections with purveyors to skillfully weave together his straightforward cooking style. He serves a variety of brick-oven flatbreads, innovative salads—like the seared Ahi tuna with avocado, cucumber, pickled chilis, and cilantro—and entrées like Arctic char with lemon couscous, black garlic yogurt, oranges, and olives.

Switching things up, I traveled over to the Westin Kierland Resort and Spa for a night. The Westin chain is known for heavenly beds. This particular location, however, is also known for its handsome Scotch Library, which offers a vast selection of Scotch whiskies, and Deseo (“desire” in Spanish),

CONSISTENTLY DELICIOUS SINCE 1995!

’TINI NIGHT Every Tuesday and Thursday at 5 p.m.

In the Bar Only.

BOGO Buy one entrée, get one FREE. 5–6 p.m. daily.

3899 East Scenic Highway 30A, Seagrove Beach · 850.231.2166 · Open Daily at 5 · cafethirtya.com

Photo courtesy of Visit Mesa 148 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

a restaurant that showcases Nuevo Latino cuisine. My evening began with the haunting sound of Scottish bagpipes played at sunset in a tribute to Scottish immigrants. Then it was on to view over a hundred single malts and twenty-five blends imported from all six whisky regions in Scotland. I enjoyed a sip or three of a two-ounce pour assisted by the resort’s Scotch Library Ambassador.

The Phoenix area has a delightful menu offering adventures to thrill seekers, spa lovers, foodies, and families alike.

Ready to dive into the culinary scene again, I headed to Deseo, the AAA FourDiamond restaurant also voted one of America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants in 2014 and 2015 by Wine Enthusiast. The pairing of traditional Latin American and contemporary ingredients lived up to the hype; on the menu are a unique range of mouthwatering ceviches, grilled and roasted fish and shellfish, and meats prepared with tantalizing South American–inspired marinades, sauces, and sides. If you want one of the best seats in the house, make your reservation for the Rail at Deseo, which overlooks the open kitchen.

Phoenix residents are quite proud of the Desert Botanical Garden, one of the few accredited by the American Alliance of Museums. Here you will see the world’s finest collection of arid land plants alongside unique art installations and

THE CORK STORE 29 Uptown Grayton Circle, Santa Rosa Beach, Florida

850.460.4644 • Hours 9-5 www.QUEORK.com

LUXURY HANDBAGS, SHOES, AND ACCESSORIES MADE FROM GENUINE CORK Durable Wa t e r & S t a i n Re s i s t a n t V i r t u a l l y We i g h t l e s s

exhibitions. Educational classes, dining experiences, and hands-on workshops are offered. My visit included a healthy cooking class with Chef Jason Wyrick.

One of the most memorable gastronomic experiences I enjoyed in Phoenix was lunch at Vincent on Camelback, owned by Chef Vincent Guerithault, a pioneer of Phoenix’s culinary scene for more than three decades. He combines his passions for French cooking techniques and Southwestern ingredients—I am genuinely fond of these as well. Chef Guerithault was awarded the first-ever Citation of Excellence from the International Food and Wine Society, a James Beard Award for America’s Best Chef: Southwest in 1993, and many accolades since.

My initial attraction was to his authentic European bistro with a chalkboard menu, which changes daily to highlight the freshest selections. Plan to indulge in the lobster chimichanga with goat cheese and basil beurre blanc as well as showstopping desserts such as the raspberry clafoutis with amaretto ice cream.

Positioned in the heart of the picturesque mountains and surrounded by local and national parks, the Phoenix area has a delightful menu offering adventures to thrill seekers, spa lovers, foodies, and families alike.

Susan Benton is a food and travel writer and the owner of 30AEATS.com, where she shares her passion for cooking and her commitment to promoting farmers, fishermen, chefs, artisans, and restaurants along the Gulf Coast of Florida. Look for her cookbook to be released this year.

A TRADITION

EST. 1958

The Art of Science and Water

Custom Pools and Spas • Outdoor Furniture • Grills DESTIN FLORIDA:

36074 Emerald Coast Pkwy.

Destin, Florida (850) 650-9138

COXPOOLS.COM

Lic. CPC056661

PANAMA CITY BEACH:

12216 Panama City Beach Pkwy.

Panama City Beach, Florida (850) 235-7957

A

EN V D

TURES

IN

YELLOWSTONE N A T I O N A L

P A R K

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY KELLY BEASLEY

Photo courtesy of Shutterstock

ast September, my mother and I took a journey to Yellowstone National Park, a destination I had been anxious to see since moving to Broken Leg Ranch near Bigfork, Montana. This was my first trip to Yellowstone—a national treasure established by President Ulysses S. Grant in 1872 as America’s first national park. More natural geysers—including, of course, Old Faithful—are located there than in any other place on earth.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 153

Top left: Old Faithful putting on her show. Top right: Erupting every nine to fifteen hours, Great Fountain Geyser is the only predictable geyser in the lower basin of Yellowstone.

Bottom: There are some mountains to be seen in Yellowstone, though not many. We saw this beauty on the way to Mammoth from the West Glacier entrance.

154 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

As we drove into Yellowstone’s west entrance, I expected to see huge, snowcapped peaks of the Rocky Mountains like I had seen in Banff National Park in Canada just a few weeks prior. Rather than rugged, mountainous scenery, Yellowstone is actually known more for its geologic features and wildlife—and these features do not disappoint! Though elk and bison are numerous—several traffic jams were caused by the latter crossing the roads—most other animals in the park are challenging to find; we were lucky to see one grizzly bear off in the distance.

Our first stop was Old Faithful. The cone-type geyser erupts to heights of between 106 and 185 feet approximately every forty-five minutes to two hours. We were fortunate enough to see an eruption after only thirty minutes of waiting. (Hint: The ranger station posts the predicted eruption times.) It was an extraordinary experience and well worth the wait!

It was an extraordinary experience and well worth the wait! smelled a little like rotten eggs and the formation was so bright that it was hard to look at on that sunny day. It was truly a different type of landscape from any I had seen before.

We continued down the steep road and, rounding a bend, came upon Mammoth Hot Springs. Suddenly, we realized we had been taking photos of the back of the spring! Of course, we parked to go have a better look. The features looked exactly as if a snow-white cave had been turned inside out.

Day two found us at Grand Prismatic Spring, the largest hot spring in the United States. Though the spring was mostly shrouded by steam, every now and again, a breeze would blow enough away and offer a brief glimpse of the vibrant rainbowcolored edges that the spring is known for. It is truly stunning!

Boardwalks guide you around Mammoth’s active geologic features; there are a lot of stairs, so be prepared to climb. The first feature, Palette Spring, is two stories of brilliant white calcium carbonate deposits left behind by water that constantly flows over the stone. You can’t see the spring from the base, only its walls. Continue along the boardwalk and up the stairs for a look down into the spring.

On our third day, we drove from West Yellowstone to Mammoth Hot Springs.

Along the way, a solid white stone formation could be seen behind a dense tree line.

An observation lane permitted us to pull over to take pictures. We were perplexed as to how cascading water could create this intriguing white landform; the water

Bacteria thrive in the hot water of the springs and form colorful “bacterial mats” around the borders of the pools. Steam vents and geysers dot the immediate area.

The unique landscape could have been mistaken for an alien planet had it not been for some random elk that lounged nearby. It was a fascinating feast for the eyes!

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 155

Top: Sapphire Pool, located in Biscuit Basin, flaunts its blazing colors. Bottom left: At 671 miles long, the Yellowstone River is the longest undammed river in the lower forty-eight states. Photo courtesy of Shutterstock. Bottom right: A young buffalo satisfies an itch using a fallen tree.

156 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Wandering around Mammoth’s boardwalks offers unique views of each area around the springs. It’s worth the venture, but be warned: the rotten-egg smell of the spring water is strong, especially when you walk through a steam cloud. I purposely avoided the spring nicknamed Dragon’s Breath!

The unique landscape could have been mistaken for an alien planet... It was a fascinating feast for the eyes!

All in all, our trip to Yellowstone was gorgeous, but it was the surprising discovery of Mammoth Hot Springs that I will remember the most. The impressive terraces of brilliant white limestone deposits show the true power and beauty of what the earth itself can create over time.

Thanks, nature!

Go to the following link on La Muse (VIE’s blog) to read about my visit to Banff National Park in Canada: www.viemagazine.com/index.php/2015/12/ 21/natural-beauty-redefined-banff-national-park These strange white walls show the back side of a very unique travertine formation, Mammoth Hot Springs.

rolenstudio.com modern residential design taylor residence - grayton 850.814.2642

Why Risk Your Investment with Anyone but the Best?

Resort Collection-managed resort and vacation rental units have historically generated revenues 27% higher than the market average.* With unparalleled local expertise and trust earned from longevity and stability in an ever-changing industry, Resort Collection consistently outperforms the market.

27

%

HIGHER VACATION RENTAL REVENUES

Call today to learn how our team of experts can help you maximize your property’s revenue potential.

Paul Wohlford Vice President of Business Development W W W. R E S O RTCO L L E C T I O N CO R P O R AT E .CO M

850.235.4917

*Claim based on Panama City Beach Convention and Visitors Bureau Bed Tax Revenue reports.

China Postcards from

HUANGSHAN MOUNTAINS

BY DALE FOSTER

How many times have you noticed the mountainscape paintings in your local Chinese restaurant? They seem to be idealized depictions of some fairy-tale place. Not so. Located approximately 250 miles (396 kilometers) west of Shanghai, the Huangshan Mountains are very real and magnificent, and they have inspired artists and poets for over thirteen centuries.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 161

Mount Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) has been described as the “loveliest mountain of China.” Its history is shrouded in mysticism and folklore. One eighth-century Tang Dynasty legend claimed the mountain contained the elixir of immortality. During the sixteenth-century Ming Dynasty, the marvelous views of the granite peaks emerging from a sea of clouds inspired the Shanshui (“mountain and water”) school of landscape painting.

The Huangshan Mountains are a popular tourist destination for Chinese travelers and a UNESCO World Heritage site, yet they are hardly known by Americans. The mountains reach over 6,100 feet (1,860 meters) in height and are protected by the Huangshan National Park. Due to the ever-changing panorama of clouds, mountains, and pines, it is one of the most beautiful and intriguing sites in the world.

Rocky peaks, tree-lined ridges, and rhododendron-filled valleys are complemented by oddly shaped boulders, rugged gorges, caves, tunnels, waterfalls, lakes, and hot springs. It is the Huangshan pine that gives this mountain range its special look. Predominantly evergreen, the Huangshan pine lives at altitudes above 2,600 feet (800 meters). What gives this species of tree its unique beauty is that the bark of the trunk and branches is also dark green, highlighting the effect of the green pine needles. Accented against the backdrop of tannish granite, the green pines are a unique and pleasing view that evokes feelings of tranquility and relaxation. Some of the trees are extremely old, unusually shaped, and

celebrated by the Chinese, especially the illustrious Welcome Tree (sometimes referred to as the GuestGreeting Pine).

The scenery is breathtaking. Thanks to the constant movement of clouds funneling through the valleys and over the mountain peaks, it is a continually changing vista. From higher elevations, clouds can be seen climbing vertically from the lower valleys, giving a perspective that people in many parts of the world will never see. The weather patterns change quickly. A beautiful, clear, and sunny window can quickly close with clouds for long periods of time and then, just as suddenly, clear again. Each moment in the Huangshan Mountains is truly a unique experience, so bring a camera and stay alert! The angle of the sun, the cloud cover, the vegetation, and the shadows are never exactly the same.

To enjoy all the splendor the mountains have to offer requires a good deal of walking. It has been said that there are sixty thousand steps in the park.

I think this is a gross underestimation. The paths are in good condition, with footsteps formed from local rocks or carved into the mountain granite.

Still, the steps are almost vertical at times, creating a challenge whether one is hiking up or down the mountains. The park’s designers did an admirable job of blending paths with the natural habitat so as not to be eyesores. For example, most of the guardrails have been fabricated to resemble tree branches.

Along the paths, one occasionally sees Chinese calligraphy chiseled into or painted on large rock slabs. These precipice inscriptions are historical records of Mount Huangshan and have become an integral part of the mountain’s heritage. The remains

162 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

of ancient Buddhist temples can also be seen along the way, augmenting the cultural legacy of the area.

Adding to the allure of the park are the names of peaks and lookouts. Beginning to Believe Peak, Monkey Watching Sea of Clouds, Immortal Peak, Turtle Carrying Gold Peak, Heavenly Dog Watching the Moon, and Zhu Bajie (a greedy pig from a Chinese folktale) Eating the Watermelon are just a few.

One of the best places to watch the sun set is the Cloud Dispelling Pavilion. The west-facing platform overlooks a picturesque valley and splendid, tree-lined mountain peaks with names such as Upside-Down Boot, Shoes Being Dried, and Wu Song (a legendary Chinese hero) Fighting the Tiger. Here the mist and clouds gather and part, allowing viewers colorful glimpses of the setting sun. Padlocks engraved with couples’ names line the guardrails, accentuating the romanticism of this spot.

For a lucky few, a chance occurrence of “Buddha’s light” can be seen from the mountain peaks. This optical phenomenon resembles a colorful halo and can be seen when the observer is between the sun and a cloud of refracting water droplets.

Sunrise at the east-facing Red Cloud Peak is also a spectacle. With flashlights in hand, hikers jostle for the best viewing spot to see the sun’s glow over the enchanting peaks before it is enveloped in a sea of clouds. It is a scene that is both peaceful and exhilarating.

For the adventurous—and physically fit—the West Sea Grand Canyon (also called Xihai Grand Canyon) is one of the must-see parts of Mount Huangshan Park. Starting near the Cloud Dispelling Pavilion, hikers are treated to a view of

one of the most beautiful valleys in the world. Every turn is a new scene, a new angle, a new perspective, and a new feeling of awe. Speckled in with the pines are occasional flowering plants whose colors are magnified by the backdrop of pines, granite, and sky. The steps are sometimes steep and precarious, with walkways suspended high above the canyon floor without vertical supports. Hikers get the sensation they are floating above the clouds as they walk to the Illusion Scenic Area, where they can view Immortal Walking on Stilts Peak or Above the Clouds Peak.

On this trail, hikers reach the park’s highest point, Lotus Peak, at 6,115 feet (1,864 meters). From there it is a long downhill walk to the Mercy Light Station, where it is possible to catch a bus back to town. Along the way, hikers are treated to stunning views of distant summits, imposing peaks, narrow tunnels, and scenic bridges. The hiking here is challenging; porters gather at times to take exhausted hikers down the steep slopes on bamboo chairs.

Impressively, the porters also carry luggage, food, and water up these same steps. All provisions are delivered to the park hotels in this manner— no motorized vehicles are allowed.

On this trail, hikers reach the park’s highest point, Lotus Peak, at 6115 feet.

Due to its remoteness in China’s Anhui province, Huangshan Mountain National Park is a bit difficult to reach. Most foreign visitors travel from Shanghai by airplane or train to Huangshan City, which is about 275 miles (442 kilometers) from the park. From there, a taxi is the most reliable way to get to the park’s entrance or

164 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

nearby hotels. The Cheng Jin Hotel, located in West Tangkou Town, is convenient to the park bus terminal and has a friendly, helpful staff and a good restaurant for local Anhui cuisine. For those wanting to stay inside the park, there are a handful of options. The Beihai and Paiyunlou hotels offer hostel-style lodgings on top of the mountain, while the Xihai Hotel offers more luxurious accommodations and elegant dining.

Whether staying in town or in the mountain hotels, the regional Anhui food and famous Huangshan Mao Feng tea are essential parts of the Huangshan Mountain experience. Anhui cuisine uses fresh local produce, herbs, and fish. Most of the ingredients, such as stone frogs, mushrooms, bayberry, tea leaves, and bamboo shoots, come from the mountain areas.

Mount Huangshan Park is one of the most renowned scenic landscapes in China, with estimates of over two million people visiting each year. To avoid crowds, try to catch the early buses from the park entrance to the Yungu Temple cableway station. Be prepared for at least an hour-long wait to board the cableway that takes visitors up the steep slopes to the higher elevations, where the scenery is the best. The gondola ride offers the first samples of the majestic scenery to follow.

Once on top of the mountain, tour groups huddle together while their guides blare away on megaphones. Independent hikers are left to explore the park on

their own. It is humorous that the tourist maps and even the path-side placards are so inaccurate. Some peaks and overlooks are often labeled different names (Red Cloud Peak and Purple Cloud Peak are the same site), and the routes give no indication of real direction or elevation changes. These challenges aside, the park is well laid out and worth the effort.

The longer and more difficult paths offer smaller crowds, though one is seldom alone for very long given the popularity of the park.

Mount Huangshan Park is a scenic delicacy that is meant to be savored, so it takes at least three days to enjoy all it has to offer. Given the ever-changing weather patterns, you can never be sure when rain and clouds might blow in. The park is said to average 258 foggy days per year. The mountains are over a mile above sea level, so it is a good idea to let your body acclimate to the thinner air before attempting long hikes.

The Huangshan Mountains can be visited and enjoyed any time of the year. Expect larger crowds on the weekends and on holidays. Our visit in May was pleasant, with some spring flowers still in

bloom. Supposedly, winter is the best season to view the cloud sea. The weather is unpredictable, so rain gear is recommended and can be purchased in the local stores or at the park hotels.

It is easy to see why the Huangshan Mountains are among the iconic symbols of China and have been the subject of Chinese art for centuries. They are a source of national pride. Today, China’s growing middle class favors these mountains for experiencing the cultural wonder and natural beauty of their country. As China has become more open to foreign travelers in recent years, the rest of the world can now share the magnificence of the Huangshan Mountains, too.

About the Author

Dale Foster is a Certified Beach Bum, inventor, adventurer, businessman, writer, television producer, and volunteer for worthwhile causes around the world. He has been a happy resident of Santa Rosa Beach, Florida, since 2005.

.

30AvenueeeeeeeePierePark

BEYOND THE EIFFEL TOWER

BY SALLIE W. BOYLES | PHOTOGR APHY BY MICHAEL SAINT JAMES

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 167

GRANTING ACCESS FROM HERE TO THERE, A BRIDGE SPANNING WATER CAN SEEM RATHER STOIC AMID THE COMINGS AND GOINGS OF TRAVELERS ABOVE AND THE MOVING CURRENTS BELOW. It can appear as if it is alert, as if bracing for the next storm or flood of vehicles. Some would say that each bridge has a personality. Harboring a secretive past of romantic rendezvous and military maneuvers, an antique bridge that occupies an ancient crossing emanates a mystical aura, while the newest modern marvel perhaps exudes the energy of high-speed commerce. Bridges of all types have a way of garnering admiration for the architectural feats they exhibit as well as for the benefits and pleasures they provide.

Enticing views compel more than a few to pause—or at least slow down—when traversing such distinctive monuments to civilization.

Spending over a year in Europe’s City of Light to observe, experience, photograph, research, and write about the thirty-seven bridges that cross the Seine River in Paris, Michael Saint James demonstrates in his recently published book, Bridges of Paris, that each one is worth getting to know. By taking his visual tour of the bridges, augmented with satellite maps and engaging essays, followers (including those who know Paris well) gain extraordinary perspectives of the city’s architecture, people, and culture, both past and present.

The oversized coffee-table book—measuring fourteen by nine and one-half inches and containing 280 pages with 350 four-color photographs—resulted from three years of planning and creating, counting two extended stays in Paris. “I wanted to make the most beautiful book that I could,” says Michael, a contemporary Renaissance man with a résumé full of teaching and traveling, among other endeavors. “I’ve been a book designer for the past fifteen years.” He has also been a book packager who directs all facets of production.

“When the Internet came of age, I watched the self-publishing industry boom and started my own imprint, Citron Bay Press.” Headquartered in the San Francisco Bay Area, where Michael resides with his wife of thirty-seven years, Diana, Citron Bay

168 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Press serves authors who want to publish quality books with beautiful imagery.

Without question, Bridges of Paris is visually stunning.

“My goal was to create something special and a cut above,” says Michael. Details mattered. The larger format, for instance, provided ample space to showcase each photo—whether a close-up or a panoramic shot.

“When I looked at other photography books, I noticed that a lot of the information got lost in the gutter— the center margin,” he says, indicating the care he took to avoid sacrificing any material elements.

He further devised a clever system of categorizing the bridges into groups, giving readers a logical flow to follow: island bridges, palace bridges, downriver bridges, and upriver bridges. “Typically,” Michael informs, “when you name the bridges in an area, you go from upriver to downriver, but that order would make no sense in relaying the history of Paris. The island bridges of Paris are the oldest, so I began with them.”

His sequence prompts a history lesson: “If you ask a Parisian which bridge is the oldest,” Michael writes, “she will point to Pont Neuf—a beautiful stone arched bridge on the downriver (west) side of the Île de la Cité.” Although Pont Neuf, completed in 1607 by King Henry IV, is the longest standing, its name, which means New Bridge, provides a clue that others came first.

Based upon historical references, such as a map dating to 56 BC that identifies the walled city of Lutetia on the Île de la Cité (one of two natural islands in the middle of Paris and the site of Notre-Dame Cathedral), Michael and other historians reason that the first of the bridges would have connected the old island village to the shore at Petit Pont’s conveniently narrow location on the Seine. Although built in 1853, Petit Pont (or Little Bridge) would have had a number of ancestors. Some of the earliest,

700 Pier Park Drive Panama City Beach, FL (850) 233-2141

likely made of wood, were seemingly destroyed on purpose to forestall invaders. “People have been using that crossing for 2,300 years,” Michael reflects, naming Julius Caesar among them. “There’s magic to that.”

Michael is partial to Petit Pont but names the Passerelle Simone-de-Beauvoir as his second favorite. Completed in 2006, this one is reserved for pedestrians and cyclists. “It’s a beautiful, curvy bridge,” he says.

Some rather unexpected moments of bridge magic materialized for Michael in the National Library of France, where he conducted much of his research.

Initially delving into the bridges’ architectural backgrounds, he says, “Their histories told me about the sculptures, materials, and other details.” In finding tales of goddesses, spies, floods, kings, and more to entertain and enlighten readers, Michael says, “I wanted to make sure I was giving accurate information about Paris and the culture of each period.” Since accounts of certain events varied, he took extra steps to substantiate his content. “I was always looking for three sources that told me the same thing.” Editors also helped him fact-check and revise his words—to “make my voice better,” as Michael puts it.

“THE PICTURE BECAME THE FOCUS VERSUS HAVING THE EXPERIENCE OF BEING THERE. MY ADVICE IS TO STOP AND LOOK AROUND.” To create his visual time capsule of Paris, Michael aimed for authentic images to reflect the life and culture of the city, not artsy shots to show off technique. “I wanted to take photos as a tourist would,” he says. Certain caveats, however, such as being aware and appreciative of his surroundings, accompany that statement. “I observed so many tourists who would take a photo, look at the camera, and walk away,” says Michael. “The picture became the focus versus having the experience of being there. My advice is to stop and look around.”

According to Michael, renting an apartment and living more like a Parisian (who, as he says, “participates in being Parisian”) than an American taught him to slow

170 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

30Aradio.com iphone • android • ipad

172 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

down and take it all in. “I became most intimate with a bridge when I would put my camera away and just hang out,” he says. Still, he adhered to a disciplined time line, photographing the bridges through every season, during different times of the day, and from various ranges. Returning again and again to his subjects, he waited patiently for the right light, color, and composition—with and without people. “I

“I BECAME MOST INTIMATE WITH A BRIDGE WHEN I WOULD PUT MY CAMERA AWAY AND JUST HANG OUT.” needed the pictures to tell a story. By getting familiar with each bridge, I had time to develop a clear picture in my mind of what I wanted to capture.

I’d then spend hours in one location taking two hundred to three hundred pictures.”

To achieve so many shots deemed both quintessential and remarkable, Michael says, “I did my job of showing up.” He recalls one day when the rain seemed determined to ruin his plan to photograph the Eiffel Tower from one of the bridges that offered the desired vantage point. Instead of giving up and returning to his apartment, Michael decided to wait in a nearby café. “Then the rainbow came out,” he says. “All seemed to be falling apart, but I was present and got the rainbow.”

Although waiting around could be mentally and physically taxing, Michael usually loved being on location. A gregarious person by nature, he welcomed opportunities to meet people. When they spotted his camera, he says, “Tourists would often ask me for directions.” That’s when the fun began. “If an American asked if I spoke English, my game was to see if I could fool them into thinking I was French!” Ironically, he claims, his French got worse, not better, and he often resorted to English. Even so, Michael says, “You don’t

have to worry so much about language barriers when you travel. One Italian family and I had no language in common but found a word we both understood for bridge: pont.” (Ponte is the Italian version.) “We then counted and I told them that the location they wanted was three bridges on the other side.”

Connecting with individuals from around the globe is nothing new to Michael. “I’m in a traveling family,” he says. He and Diana have long placed a priority on travel, thereby igniting wanderlust in their two grown children. Their son currently teaches in Beirut, Lebanon, which Michael calls “the Paris of the Middle East.” Blaming news reports for making people fearful of an entire region, he says, “One of the keys to world peace is for us to go to different countries and see how others live—travel allows us to see life in a different way.”

With past explorations that include the Antarctic, Belgium, Burma, Cyprus, Croatia, the Himalayas,

174 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Japan, and the Netherlands, Michael ventures out with the idea of becoming immersed in the culture.

“I want to know what they eat and how they talk and spend the day,” he says, “and to experience the locals’ point of view.”

“THEY LED ME ON A JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION. EVERY BRIDGE IS A MARK OF PARIS HISTORY.”

He could have chosen any number of cities and subjects for his book, but Michael, like many artists, was drawn to Paris. He then pondered and rejected various themes—drinking fountains, graffiti, and even cats—before he became acquainted with the bridges during a six week reconnaissance mission prior to his yearlong stay. “They led me on a journey of exploration,” he says. “Every bridge is a mark of Paris history.”

Identifying himself as an educator and a historian, Michael has taught art history and visual storytelling.

“I have an expertise in Impressionism and Vincent van Gogh,” he says. (Interestingly, Van Gogh is the topic for Michael’s next book, a work of fiction.) He has also held jobs in film editing and sound recording and once owned a café in Berkley, California. Bridges of Paris embodies many of his talents and insights.

With unique prints and patterns, Thibaut wallpapers bring a bit of fun and playfulness to your space.

Order yours exclusively at Summer House Lifestyle!

850.231.0133 57 Uptown Grayton Circle Santa Rosa Beach, FL 32459 image provided by

summerhouselifestyle.com

For instance, when he realized the book he had in mind would be costly to produce, Michael returned to the United States armed with his initial set of bridge photos and proposed his concept to prospective business partners. “There are a million reasons not to do something,” he says, “and really the most important thing is to move forward in any way you can.”

Also early on, to determine the merits of a good photography book, Michael says, “I attended book conferences, such as the BookExpo America in New York, to see what other companies were producing, and I found that the most interesting photography books had a motif. That’s when I knew I wasn’t just going to publish Michael’s Pretty Pictures of Paris.”

He learned, too, that the demand for high-end coffee-table books, which easily retail for fifty to a hundred dollars, was strong despite the surge in e-books.

“There’s a clear market for books that represent who we are and what we value,” he explains. “We buy them and leave them out to show people who come into our homes.”

Besides, using an e-reader, no matter how convenient, is not quite the same as turning the pages of a hardcover filled with photos that capture the imagination.

“The story happens inside the viewer’s head,” Michael remarks, having experienced that when he spent time with each bridge in person. “It’s interesting when others tell me what they like and see in the pictures.”

For those who want to see and read more, the Bridges of Paris website—www.bridgesofparis.com— offers generous previews of the book, reader reviews, online purchasing with free shipping, Michael’s contact for speaking engagements, and links to his blog, Parisian for a Year. The book is also available through Amazon.

176 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

B E AU T Y A B O U N D S I N S O U T H E R N S PA I N Story and photography by Hannah Myer

178 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

S P A I N W E L C O M E S Y O U W A R M LY . he invites you in and asks for your eyes to see the way the sun washes over and illuminates the white villages and flowers of every hue. She asks for your ears to hear her music and her native tongue. She asks you to take in the perfume of orange blossoms and the aroma of paella wafting from plates on restaurant patios. She asks you to taste and notice the complexities of her prized olive oils and wines. She asks you to feel as easygoing as the Guadalquivir River flows—but also as enthusiastic as the flamenco dancer with each step. And finally, you may find that she asks for your heart because Spain is nothing if not pulsing with passion.

The provinces of southern Spain contain the epitome of all the things that come to mind when one thinks about this captivating country. Bullfighters and late-night tapas? Check. Flashy fiestas and costumes? Check. Colorful ceramics and flowers?

Check. And yes, every day at two o’clock in the afternoon, entire cities shut down for the daily siesta.

Centuries of invasions have left their mark on this part of the world. Periods of expansion have given way to periods of war and back around again in cycles of building up and breaking down. Today, the region is thriving, and the evolution of its monuments and intentional efforts to honor the country as a whole profoundly display the beauty that can come from a messy conglomeration of historical conquests. As Ernest Hemingway said, “The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places.”

Seville is the capital of the province of Andalusia, located in southwestern Spain, and this two-thousand-year-old city is known for its joyful personality. As the home of the weeklong Feria de Abril and the birthplace of tapas, Seville is a hub for Spanish culture.

Just inside the city center, a giant crosshatch optical illusion flows above the streets of Plaza de la Encarnación. The modern structure is commonly known as Las Setas, or “the Mushrooms,” but it is formally called the Metropol Parasol.

Made completely of wood, it houses a museum dedicated to archaeological findings revealed during excavations, a farmers market, bars and restaurants, and panoramic terraces that offer stellar views of the city.

V I E MAGA ZINE .COM | 179

Continuing south through the city will lead to the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede, which is notably the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Visitors can marvel at the impressive interior and make their way to the Giralda, a bell tower that was originally built in the twelfth century as a Muslim minaret. Almost two centuries and a series of wars later, Roman Catholic Church leaders decided to construct a cathedral around the Moorish sections and turned the tower into a belfry. Thirty-four stories of ramps rise to the top, where the view is sensational. A crystal blue sky flies beautifully over a panorama of pearly white buildings with terra-cotta roofs and terraces with swimming pools glinting in the sunlight. A bullring stands out among the houses in the west.

Back on the ground again, Seville’s cobblestoned streets may seem to have no rhyme or reason to a visitor, but the maze is an enchanting one. The Parque de María Luisa is no less captivating, and as Seville’s main green space, the park resembles a type of paradise with its lush gardens, colorful flowerbeds and variety of trees. The tiled fountains and ponds resemble oases. Being a student, I even had the audacity to dip my toes in the water.

The northernmost corner of the park opens up into an expansive space that contains the Plaza de España. This edifice stands proudly as it curves around a pristine canal. Four bridges decorated with brightly painted ceramics take visitors from the large courtyard over the canal where small boats pass underneath. Benches line the walls of the canal to represent each province of Spain, further demonstrating the area’s cultural pride.

East of Seville, another southern Spanish treasure awaits exploration. The city of Granada sits at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountain range and is less than fifty miles from the Mediterranean coast.

Granada also experienced a vicious cycle of invasion and war, and it was the last Muslim area of Andalusia to fall to the Christians in 1492. The city’s upwardly winding cobblestoned streets showcase the long Muslim history. Arabic tearooms are tucked away, and Moorish boutiques overflow with decorative textiles, colorful ceramics, and leather products.

180 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

AS THE HOME OF THE WEEKLONG FERIA DE ABRIL AND THE BIRTHPLACE OF TA PA S , S E V I L L E I S A H U B F O R S P A N I S H C U LT U R E .

Theaters where flamenco dancers take the stage can also be found within Granada’s walls. The flamenco dance is deeply artistic and showcases Spain’s passion and depth of emotion with brilliance. The dance is originally Andalusian, though it is found in many other parts of Spain and the world, and is improvised based on a handful of simple movements. The show I witnessed as a student included only a man, a woman, a singer, and a guitarist on the small stage, which enhanced the intimacy and intensity of their art. The troubles and joys of life are found in each stomp of their feet, clap of their hands, and swift movement of their bodies.

As the narrow streets continue upward, there is an open landing where tourists and locals gather along a cement wall to take in an astounding view of the city.

This same view would give me my first glimpse of the Alhambra. At dusk, the enormous castle glows red from a distance as the blue of the sky deepens.

182 | JAN UA RY/ F E B R UA R Y 2016

Similar to Seville’s cathedral, the Alhambra underwent much architectural evolution.

The structure was initially built as a military fortress until the Nasrid dynasty, the last Muslim dynasty in Spain, rebuilt the original ruins into their idea of “heaven on earth.” More portions were added during the spread of Christianity in the fifteenth century, creating another blend of historic influence in Spain.

Visitors can weave in and out of the elaborate Generalife gardens and explore the interior of the fortress. It is built in Moorish style, and intricate arabesque patterns line the walls and ceilings. Arched windows provide splashes of accentuating light and views of the whitewashed houses of the Albaicín quarter. The preservation and restoration of these details are impressive, though what is left today is only a fraction of what stood before the atrocities of war in the nineteenth century and the effects of an earthquake in 1821. Many poems and stories have been written about the palace and its history, including a collection by Washington Irving, which provided the key to the Alhambra’s global fame.

T H E C I T Y ’ S U P W A R D LY W I N D I N G C O B B L E S T O N E D S T R E E T S S H O W C A S E T H E LO N G M U S L I M H I S TO RY. A R A B I C T E A R O O M S A R E T U C K E D AWAY, A N D M O O R I S H B O U T I Q U E S O V E R F LO W W I T H D E C O R AT I V E T E X T I L E S , C O LO R F U L C E R A M I C S , A N D L E AT H E R P R O D U C T S .

Rugs • Home • Accessories

850.650.9292 OasisRugAndHome.com

12555 Emerald Coast Pky, Suite D Miramar Beach, FL 32550

I STILL FEEL G R AT I T U D E F O R THE KIND SPIRIT O F T H E S PA N I S H PEOPLE AND THEIR LOVE FOR THEIR H O M E C O U N T RY. While Irving’s last view of Granada was accompanied by the sunset, my last view was of the sunrise peeking over the mountains. Irving wrote, “I will hasten from this prospect before the sun is set. I will carry away a recollection of it clothed in all its beauty.” My sentiment for southern Spain is as such, and today I still feel gratitude for the kind spirit of the Spanish people and their love for their home country. I often think about the warmth of the sun on my skin and the colorful array of flowers springing up from Spain’s life-giving soil. I hope to return someday, but until then, these pleasurable memories will be sweet companions.

Love is

Decadent

Florida Trend Magazine’s Golden Spoon Award Winner Four Years in a Row Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for Eight Years Running (2008–2015) Honored as one of Urbanspoon’s 250 “America’s Most Popular High-End Restaurants”

Steak | Seafood | Sushi Pizza | Dessert | Cocktails Private Rooms and Full Service Catering Available.

Firefly Restaurant & Lounge at the Shoppes of Edgewater Panama City Beach, Florida 850.249.3359 • fireflypcb.com

™ and A Diamond is Forever™ are Trade Marks used under license from The De Beers Group of Companies. ™, © Forevermark Limited 2014–2015. Forevermark™,

IT ’ S A LO N G J O U R N E Y TO B ECO M E TH E O N E .

In our constant pursuit of absolute beauty, every Forevermark ® diamond undergoes a journey of rigorous selection.

This is why less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the Forevermark ® inscription – our promise of beauty, rarity and responsible sourcing.

Destin Commons Pier Park

I I

850.269.0133 850.236.3196

Available at select REEDS Jewelers locations and on REEDS.com