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In this issue On the Cover
72
PUTTING ON THE RITZ!
A STAY AT THE GLAMOROUS RITZ PARIS IS JUST ONE LUXURIOUS OFFERING IN OUR LATEST C’EST LA VIE CURATED COLLECTION.
She is a mystery and a dream wrapped
FEATURE
126 A Story of Adventure
into one. The enchanting grounds of
80 An Enchantment: Ballynahinch Castle and
132 Breaking Eggs: Food and Family in
Christian Siriano Fashions Inspire the Feminine Hunter
140 A Tradition of Art and Education: Clifden
Ballynahinch Castle Hotel in Recess, Connemara, Ireland, and the fairy tale– worthy designs of Christian Siriano inspire the woman who enjoys skeet
LE MONDE 31
shooting in the morning followed by
32 Crowning Glory: Living Beautifully,
high tea and petit fours in the afternoon. She is the huntress that lives in every woman, and the princess that lives in every girl. Find her story in our feature article, “An Enchantment,” and see more of western Ireland in our special
Inside and Out
38 No Strings Attached: The New Jazz Pianist
published by The Idea Boutique®.
60 Celebrate Good Times: A 100-Year-Old Bottle
of Ireland
164 A Family Affair: Glenbricken Farm and Its Legacy
168 The Mystic Isle
and a 50-Year Anniversary
174 The Continuing Story of Kylemore Abbey
66 A Treasure Trove of Irish Myth, Legend,
180 Connemara: A Beauty Like No Other
and Folklore
186 Guglielmo Marconi: Connecting the World
C’EST LA VIE CURATED COLLECTION: THE SOPHISTICATE 72
190 Road Tripping the Wild Atlantic Way
SARTORIAL 79 94 The Beard’s Tale: A Hysterical Account 98 The New Vintage: An Artisan at Work
IRELAND
149 Bespoke Luxury: Handcrafted in the West
160 Reframing the Future
Foundation Gives Back
USA
Rails to Connemara
BON APPÉTIT! 53
sister magazine, Connemara Life, also
114 Logan Lane, Suite 4 The Grain Store, Suite 1 Grayton Beach, Florida 32459 Clifden, Co. Galway (850) 231-3087 (85) 158-9879
145 To the End of the Line: The Roads and
152 Tribal City: The Bridge to Connemara
54 Philanthropy Is Good: The Emeril Lagasse
TheIdeaBoutique.com info@theideaboutique.com
Arts Festival
44 Look. The Homeless Are Not Invisible
Voyager section with stories from our
PUBLISHED BY THE IDEA BOUTIQUE ® USA | IRELAND
Western Ireland
VOYAGER: CONNEMARA LIFE 107 109 Ode to Connemara 112 Clifden: A Vibrant, Resourceful, and Creative Community
120 Partners in Education: The Past and Future of Tullycross Village
194 The Ultimate Day Trip: A Jaunt in Westport, Ireland
LA MAISON 200 Details that Matter: The Importance of Home Staging and Pre-listing Preparations
LA BEAUTÉ 204 Beauty Spotlight: Destin Plastic Surgery
LA SCÈNE 206 AU REVOIR! 217 V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 13
CREATIVE TEAM FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF LISA MARIE BURWELL Lisa@VIEmagazine.com
FOUNDER / PUBLISHER GERALD BURWELL Gerald@VIEmagazine.com
EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR JORDAN STAGGS Jordan@VIEmagazine.com
CHIEF COPY EDITOR MARGARET STEVENSON CONTRIBUTING WRITERS SALLIE W. BOYLES, TONI DAVIS, LESLEY EMERSON, NICHOL AS GRUNDY, KEVIN HEANUE, PK JOYCE, LUKE MURRAY, ERIN ODEN, EITHNE O’HALLORAN, BREANDAN O’SCANAILL, TORI PHELPS, CLIODHNA PRENDERGAST, NICHOL AS S. RACHEOTES, JEREMY REYNALDS, MADDIE ROWLEY, COLLEEN SACHS, MARIA ELENA SINIBALDI, JOHN SWEENEY, TREENA SWEENEY, CHAD THURMAN, K ATHLEEN VILLIERS-TUTHILL, CIARA YOUNG
ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY ART DIRECTOR TRACEY THOMAS Tracey@VIEmagazine.com
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR LUCY MASHBURN FILM CURATORS AMANDA CROWLEY, TIM DUTROW, SHANE REYNOLDS, BARRY RYAN GRAPHIC DESIGNERS SHELBY BOSTON, RINN GARL ANGER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS SAM ARONOV, AKSHAY BHOAN, MARSCHA CAVALIERE, JIM CL ARK, GERARD CONNEELY, MARIE COYNE, TREVOR DUBBER, ELBUD, MARK FURNISS, STEVEN FREEMAN, FRANK GAERTNER, DARREN GERRISH, HAYLEY GREEN, HAILEIGH GRINKMEYER, NICHOL AS GRUNDY, NATASHA HARRI, AOIFE HERRIOTT, ALEX HUTCHINSON, DIMITRIOS K AMBOURIS, BRENNA KNEISS, VIC LENTAIGNE, MATT LOUGHREY, MUGA MIYAHARA, GERALDINE O’BRIEN, K AY PHEL AN, CARLO PIERONI, VL ASTA PILOT, CLIODHNA PRENDERGAST, LEV RADIN, RIHARDZZ, ROMONA ROBBINS, STEPHANIE SALMON, RICHARD SEMIK, KELLIE DIANE STEWART, ROLF G. WACKENBERG, WILLIAM WALDRON, SAM WILSON, ARMAN ZHENIKEYEV
ADVERTISING, SALES, AND MARKETING DIGITAL MARKETING DIRECTOR MEGHN HILL WEB DEVELOPER MARK THOMAS BRANCH OFFICE MANAGER – IRELAND SHARON DUANE MARKETING MANAGER AMANDA CROWLEY CREATIVE STYLIST SUVA ANG-MENDOZA PUBLICIST LISA FERRICK SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR L AUREN SHAW Lauren@VIEmagazine.com
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES JULIE DORR Julie@VIEmagazine.com MARY JANE KIRBY MaryJane@VIEmagazine.com
DISTRIBUTION MANAGER TIM DUTROW DISTRIBUTION COORDINATOR SHANNON QUINL AN VIE is a registered trademark. All contents herein are Copyright © 2008–2016 Cornerstone Marketing and Advertising, Incorporated (Publisher). All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without written permission from the Publisher. VIE is a lifestyle magazine and is published six times annually on a bimonthly schedule. The opinions herein are not necessarily those of the Publisher. The Publisher and its advertisers will not be held responsible for any errors found in this publication. The Publisher is not liable for the accuracy of statements made by its advertisers. Ads that appear in this publication are not intended as offers where prohibited by state law. The Publisher is not responsible for photography or artwork submitted by freelance or outside contributors. The Publisher reserves the right to publish any letter addressed to the editor or the Publisher. VIE is a paid publication. Subscription rates: Digital magazine (iPad only) – One-year $11.99; Two-year $17.99 / Printed magazine – One-year $29.95; Two-year $54.95. Subscriptions can be purchased online at www.VIEmagazine.com.
14 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Editor's Note
THE SOPHISTICATE
LOVE IS IN STYLE
As VIE celebrates its tenth year in 2017, we thought it appropriate to refresh and repurpose our brand with this issue! We hope you notice that our editorial, complete with new theme departments, has been raised to new cultural and literary heights. “Stories with Heart and Soul” will continue to be centric to the magazine, as will more avant-garde and thought-provoking topics. A fresh aesthetic heightens the design sensibility to enhance our visual storytelling. Since this is our first issue to bear the name “The Sophisticate”—which by definition means to have amassed experience and knowledge of the world, culture, art, literature, and fashion—this issue also helps to define a deeper sense of the word: using that sophistication to do good for others. “Do not forget to show hospitality to strangers, for by so doing some people have shown hospitality to angels without knowing it” (Hebrews 13:2). Living in a small and somewhat insulated Florida resort community tends to make one forget that many people in cities across the nation are now homeless— an estimated 3.5 million, in fact, with women and children comprising the fastestgrowing segment. The “out of sight, out of mind” adage has never rung more true, as many cities attempt to hide the homeless by warehousing them instead of taking steps to solve the epidemic. One of the biggest problems is that many of us who have homes walk on by while looking the other way so we don’t have to think about it. We think that the plight of the homeless has nothing to do with us—that they might actually want to live on the streets, or that we can’t change the problem because it’s too big. The powerful story told by Dr. Jeremy Reynalds, “LOOK. The Homeless Are Not Invisible,” is a painful, poignant reminder that charity must begin at home; a collective mind-set that “this problem is also our problem” needs to be adopted. Changing the way we think will help to spark change in reality. To whom much is given, much is expected. As we continue to celebrate people with a passion and a heart toward humanity and philanthropy, acclaimed Chef Emeril Lagasse and his eponymous foundation epitomize our definition of what it means to be sophisticated, as you’ll read in “Philanthropy Is Good” by Tori Phelps in our new Bon appétit! department. As seen on our cover, sophistication can also be found in the world’s beauty. This past March, we traveled to the west of Ireland for an epic fairy-tale photo shoot at Ballynahinch Castle with fashion designer Christian Siriano. Ireland’s ethereal countryside provided a magical backdrop for his breathtaking gowns,
Publisher Gerald Burwell with Founder/Editor-In-Chief Lisa Burwell Photo by Hayley Green
photographed by Alex Hutchinson. Dublin-based fashion model Clara McSweeney graces our cover wearing a stunning Christian Siriano couture dress as she portrays a fanciful huntress. We also have a special Voyager section featuring Connemara, Ireland, with stories from our sister publication, Connemara Life, published from our office in the charming Irish town of Clifden. The world is full of beautiful places, and Connemara is truly at the top of the list. We hope you are enchanted by her beauty and the people who reside there, just as we are. As much as we will continue to celebrate and weave beauty and goodness throughout VIE, we also want to start new conversations with our readers, even if they are difficult or unsettling. If love isn’t in style, it needs to be. Our world is not as simple as it once was—or as good for that matter—and the only path to redemption is to love one another passionately. To Life!
—Lisa Founder/Editor-In-Chief V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 15
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L I F E
U8
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SPICE
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D E F I N E D
ALLE Y
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U2 4
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This 4-bedroom, 4.5-bath courtyard home features a courtyard with dipping pool, detached master suite, junior master suite, living and dining rooms, and gourmet kitchen. The master suite has vaulted cypress ceilings, a jetted tub, sunken shower, and private poolside seating. Two guest bedrooms, are located on the 2nd floor.
U29
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SUGAR
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1 9
SUGAR
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Located just north of Fonville Press, this Somerset Home, designed by Architect Gary Justiss, features 4-bedrooms, 4.5-baths, a generous courtyard with a pool, open loggias, and second floor flex space and den. Buyers can make personal interior finish selections for the home.
ALLE Y
Located just north of Town Center near Caliza Pool & Restaurant, this Somerset Home, designed by Gary Justiss, features 3 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, bunkroom, with a spacious center courtyard and pool and two-car garage. Buyers can make personal interior finish selections for the home.
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This Somerset Home designed by Jason R. Dunham features 4 bedrooms, 4½ baths, a spacious living / dining area, expansive courtyard with pool and grill area, and two-car garage. A second floor gallery leads to a gracious 2nd floor terrace perfect for entertaining. Buyers can make personal interior finish selections for the home.
A6 · 50 SEVEN WELLS COURT
This 2,672-square-foot courtyard home is designed by renowned architect Robert Orr. A generous dipping pool, built-in seating and an outdoor fireplace ensure the courtyard, encompassed with greenery, will be used every season. On the second floor, two spacious guest suites open into a louvered gallery and a spacious rooftop terrace.
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Le monde
Le monde GOES ROUND AND ROUND
In case you couldn’t tell, the team at VIE includes a few avid Francophiles! Nearly a decade ago, we chose the French word for “life” as our name, and Marie Antoinette served as muse for our “Let Them Eat Cake” photo shoot this past March in New Orleans. The French culture and language continually inspire us, and we wouldn’t have it any other way. Francophile [ frang-kuh-fahyl ] noun: a person who is fond of or greatly admires France or the French.
V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 31
Le monde
CROWNING
GLORY
L I V I N G B E A U T I F U L LY, I N S I D E A N D O U T
BY Sallie W. Boyles
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF Melissa Dill-Behnke
elissa Dill-Behnke recalls someone telling her when she was in grade school, “I have a feeling that you’re going to step on the soil of many different countries.” The prediction seemed unlikely for a reserved little girl from rural Columbus, Kansas. Even more far-fetched than traveling the world—she has since visited thirty-two countries and resided in five—would have been the notion of her representing a foreign state in an international beauty pageant and serving as that nation’s goodwill ambassador. Melissa declares that she’s always preferred to view life from a positive perspective. “I was born and raised in the middle of nowhere,” she says, reflecting on her town’s cultural limitations. Even then, Melissa knew she had no way to go but up, and when she entered the spotlight, Melissa’s can-do mind-set, her interests, and her talents helped her shine. 32 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Growing up, Melissa enjoyed 4-H, a program that fosters leadership and other life skills through hands-on tasks and competitions related to agriculture. In addition to training animals and competing in horse shows, she reveals, “I even attained the lofty goals of being the Goat Tying Champion and Columbus Rodeo Queen. When I later auditioned in New York and LA for acting gigs, this was a great résumé stuffer!” Melissa could not identify who in her family contributed the DNA that bred her love for show business, but her parents appreciated their daughter’s gifts and supported her wholeheartedly. Their town didn’t have a dance school, so they drove Melissa at least forty minutes each way to classes. “At a young age,” she says, “I was a classical ballerina and a soloist for the Missouri Civic Ballet.” She also took voice lessons in high school, when her passion for
acting emerged. “Debate and theatre are what really brought me out of my shell in high school,” Melissa notes. “Acting was a great challenge, and giving life to the characters on a written page attracted me to the stage and screen, where I excelled and discovered a very animated and outgoing child within. It was a blessing to work in the performing arts.” Melissa spent her summers working as a singer and dancer in the Silver Dollar City Saloon show in Branson, Missouri.
Acting wAs A greAt chAllenge, And giving life to the chArActers on A written
pAge AttrActed me to the stAge And screen,
i excelled And discovered A very AnimAted And outgoing child within. it wAs A blessing to work in the performing Arts. where
Growing more confident, Melissa entered the pageant arena, where she found like-minded teens. “I really enjoyed the camaraderie,” she says. “For me it was about fellowshipping with my pageant sisters instead of winning a crown. After winning several different titles in the Four State Area—Arkansas, Kansas, Missouri, and Oklahoma,” she relays, “I met some great girls who invited me to be in a national pageant with them.” By placing in the top five for the 1983 Kansas Junior Miss, she accessed other pageants and won titles in the Miss USA and Miss America organizations.
Debbie Reynolds, Rich Little, Wayne Newton, Tony Danza, Muhammad Ali, and George Carlin) was “kind of laid-back for me. The shows were well established, so we didn’t have to rehearse too often. Vegas was enjoyable; it felt like home.” She mentions going to places like Red Rock Canyon, Mount Charleston, and Lake Mead on her time off, taking a break from the glitz and glamour. “We had a normal life and a great church family.” Regardless of this, her professional life was hardly ordinary. “Las Vegas was an incredible launching pad for my career,” she affirms. “There were many modeling gigs, movie contracts (I earned my Screen Actors Guild union card), music videos, TV shows, and work singing with my band. My connections from there helped me see the world.” Her first contract abroad, which resulted from a talent agent spotting her onstage, landed Melissa a job in Tokyo performing with three other American dancers. “We worked with Japanese stars and choreographers, and no one spoke English!” she says. “We had a blast.” Since the headliners changed every two weeks, the schedule of daily rehearsals and performances was
Squadron Commander Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Behnke celebrates his final Air Force flight with his wife, Melissa.
Melissa attended Northeastern Oklahoma (NEO) A&M College on an academic theatre scholarship; she relates, “That’s when I decided to set my sights on a career in entertainment— acting for stage, television, and film—and continue my passion for dance. I did a lot of musical theatre there.” Playing Miss Hannigan, the comically despicable orphanage matron in the musical Annie, remains a standout. “The director said it was amazing to see someone well-known for pageants come and perform such an anti-pageant role.” Melissa also took opera classes to expand her vocal range. “I sound great in the shower!” she laughs. Her alma mater inducted her into the NEO Fine Arts Hall of Fame in 2016. After graduating from NEO, Melissa earned a performing arts degree from Oklahoma City University on theatrical and Miss America pageant scholarships. “I studied dance, vocal performance, acting for stage and film,” she says, “and whatever else it took for me to fulfill my bachelor’s degree requirements. It was competitive and prepared me well for the show business lifestyle.” Melissa then moved to Las Vegas, where she danced in spectacular production shows. Surprisingly, she recalls how performing with headliners (including Mickey Rooney, Engelbert Humperdinck, V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 33
Le monde world. After the show on many occasions, Prince Albert of Monaco would join us backstage for cast parties and other celebrations. The prince was most gracious and invited some of us out on his yacht for cruises in the summer as well. On one occasion, the paparazzi were staked out on shore near Cannes, and we all ended up in People—and some European magazines—in the headlines!” After declining a job in France at Lido de Paris, the iconic cabaret on the Champs-Élysées, Melissa was ready to return to the United States and pursue an acting career. In addition to appearing in TV commercials and sitcoms, she worked at Paramount Pictures for blockbuster producers Jerry Bruckheimer and the late Don Simpson, known for such hits as Flashdance, Beverly Hills Cop, Days of Thunder, and Top Gun.
i shAred the stAge with frAnk sinAtrA, whitney houston, tony bennett, And mAny more superstArs from europe And Around the world.
Melissa was acting in LA when friends suggested that she audition for game shows. Her first appearance was on The Price Is Right, where she was chosen from three hundred others in the audience to “come on down” after introducing herself as a Vegas dancer and doing a little time step. “The producer was looking for high-energy people,” she explains. One week earlier, a drunk driver had rammed into her car and totaled it, so the timing to win a new one was just right. Remarkably, Melissa won the car and the entire showcase!
The crowning moment as Melissa Behnke wins the National Beauties of America title in 2007
rough, especially in comparison to Vegas. Still, Melissa says, “I remember going to work and thinking, ‘I can’t believe I’m getting paid to have so much fun.’” From Japan, Melissa moved to Seoul, South Korea, for a coveted role in the largest show in Asia. “The extravaganza was like a Broadway musical combined with Radio City,” she notes. Her group even performed in the preshow for the opening ceremony of the 1988 Summer Olympics in Seoul. “We were bused to the stadium and went through security wearing our giant headdresses and rhinestones,” she says. “It was amazing to perform in front of a worldwide audience!” Another gig allowed Melissa to live on the Riviera in the South of France. “While working at the Sporting Club in Monte Carlo,” she says, “I shared the stage with Frank Sinatra, Whitney Houston, Tony Bennett, and many more superstars from Europe and around the
34 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Melissa won yet another car on The Hollywood Squares a few years later and scooped up cash prizes on seven game shows in total. Nothing, though, beat the Hawaii trip she won, courtesy of The Dating Game. Behind the scenes, her game show “date” had a serious girlfriend, so the producer gave Melissa permission to ask a friend, Tom Behnke, to take the fellow’s place in Kauai. Tom had entered her life via a dating website, or as Melissa puts it, “divine intervention.” A friend of Melissa’s had developed one of the first online Christian dating services and asked if she’d let him use one of her headshots for the home page. She agreed but had no personal interest in the site. “I didn’t even own a computer,” Melissa states. Tom, who was stationed in Okinawa, Japan, flying F-15 fighter jets for the U.S. Air Force, subscribed to the website when Melissa’s photo caught his eye. Assuming she wasn’t a registered candidate, Tom e-mailed a personal letter of introduction to the site’s owner with a request that he please pass it along to the woman pictured. Tom’s words and photo appealed to Melissa, so she responded. “I borrowed my friend’s laptop so I could e-mail him,” she says. “We talked online for six months, so I got to know Tom’s character. I would wake up every day and find his e-mail.” When they met in person, it was not exactly love at first sight,
her continued beAuty pAgeAnt involvement Also provided plAtforms for melissA to generAte AwAreness of And support for militAry fAmilies And veterAns. during her reign As mrs. texAs internAtionAl in 2001, she AdvocAted for soldiers wounded in combAt.
but they maintained a long-distance friendship. The Kauai vacation was only their third date, and that’s when Melissa realized Tom was Mr. Right.
soldiers wounded in combat. Together, Melissa and Tom have also supported the Fisher House Foundation, which provides comfort homes for military families while their loved ones receive medical care.
When the pair married in 1999, Tom was stationed at Tyndall Air Force Base in Panama City, Florida, so Melissa moved to the Gulf Coast. “It is an honor and a privilege for me to take care of a man who takes care of our nation, especially in times like these,” she says of leaving California. Her continued beauty pageant involvement also provided platforms for Melissa to generate awareness of and support for military families and veterans. During her reign as Mrs. Texas International in 2001, she advocated for
From being crowned Mrs. Florida in 2008, Melissa advanced to an international pageant as Florida’s representative and became friendly with Mrs. and Miss candidates from all over Europe and their director. At the time, she and Tom were preparing to move to Great Britain for a job he had accepted with Boeing, so Melissa was thrilled to have ignited so many friendships. “The moment I landed in the UK,” she says, “I had an international family.” Her European friends welcomed Melissa’s contributions as a contestant, coach, and judge throughout England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales. “The pageant world was just beginning to blossom in the UK and I loved coaching there.” Their wholesome attitudes about competing reminded Melissa of the girls she’d known starting out. Her job, she
Le monde contends, “was not just about being pretty on the outside. The first young lady I coached told me several years later that the experience in interviewing helped her land her dream job at IBM in London.” Many former clients, in fact, stay in touch and are like daughters to the Behnkes. Melissa was also crowned Mrs. Ireland in 2009 and represented the country in the Mrs. World competition in Vietnam. “Both my husband’s family and mine have a deep history with Ireland,” she shares. With the title, Melissa served as a goodwill ambassador in Ireland, encouraging young women “to have faith, individual worth, integrity, and virtue.” Passionate about working for the benefit of others, Melissa is now involved in helping people extend their expiration dates. “I’m an International Life Extension Specialist,” she says. “I show people how to make the best of their years naturally and enjoy a better quality of life by creating awareness and teaching them to own their health destiny through whole-food nutrition, clinical-grade essential oils, and smart choices.” From traveling extensively and gaining fresh perspectives, Melissa learned which factors were compromising her health and got well by implementing changes. “We are wonderfully made,” she says, “and through spirit, mind, and body all working together synergistically according to God’s perfect plan, we can heal, live with vibrant longevity, and prevent disease.” Melissa often speaks at international
with the title, melissA served As A goodwill AmbAssAdor in irelAnd, encourAging young women “to hAve fAith, individuAl worth, integrity, And virtue.”
wellness conferences and events for groups such as Rotarians, college students, and seniors. She also organized H.E.A.L. (Healthy Eating Active Lifestyles), a wellness committee of volunteers and professionals in education and health, to foster children’s health in her community. Throughout the years, Melissa has remained active in the pageant world as a judge and coach. “I’d much rather coach others and encourage them to fulfil their dreams, goals, and potential,” she says. “I’ve been blessed and enjoyed my years in the spotlight. Now, I love helping my clients gain confidence and blossom into their own greatness.”
Individuals with an interest in Melissa’s pageant coaching or natural health resources should connect via her Facebook page, Melissa Dill-Behnke.
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Le monde
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THE NEW JAZZ PIANIST
BY CHAD THURMAN
In the packed, dimly lit Bailey Hall, on an early spring night at Broward College near Fort Lauderdale, Florida, what is arguably the only original American art form—jazz—steadily marched on to the beat of its own evolutionary rhythm. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 39
Le monde
“SO INSTEAD OF, SAY, ESPRESSIVO, SHE WOULD COLOR IT WITH RED, AND WHEN I HAD TO PLAY MORE MELANCHOLIC, SHE WOULD COLOR IT WITH BLUE. SOMETIMES WHEN THE MUSIC WOULD SAY
CANTABILE—LIKE WHEN YOU HAVE TO REALLY SING IT—SHE WOULD DRAW A SINGING FACE.” The three musicians on the stage were a few songs into their first set. The drummer’s pulse wove through the fabric of the moment as the contrabass guitarist produced waves of sound that permeated one’s very being. Their synchronous vibrations locked with the ebullient pianist’s, and it was clear she had the collective focus of the audience. Hiromi Uehara, known simply as Hiromi, had risen from her bench and was standing at the concert grand piano, her arms seeming to attack the keys with precision and finesse. A tsunami of sound gathered the attention of the band and the audience for a purpose; the pianist had the next moments in mind, and only she knew what was about to happen. With the band and the listeners in joyous lockstep, Hiromi led the music diminuendo and ritardando, slowing to the culmination of notes—and the
resulting fervor of the applause. It was then that she walked to the front of the stage with a microphone. As the audience quieted, the pixie-like pianist announced with a giggle that she had broken a string on her piano. It was her second one that day. “The first one was during rehearsal,” she says, laughing with the audience. “It’s an old piano. So, we’ll need a few moments to fix it. Where’s the piano doctor?” It was then that the audience knew they loved this person. Born in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka, Japan, Hiromi began playing the piano at age six on an upright that her family had originally purchased for her brother. In time, he found other interests, and it was Hiromi’s turn. Her mother took her to her first piano lesson, and she fell instantly in love with the instrument and music. Today, at the ripe young age of thirty-seven, Hiromi has ten albums to her credit as an artistic leader. Her latest sonic offering, Spark (released on April 1, 2016), is a trio project featuring Anthony Jackson on contrabass guitar and Simon Phillips on drums. The album release was accompanied by a robust world tour, with the Trio Project performing on a near-nightly basis in cities across five continents. Even now, with her well-assured and duly earned status as a living jazz legend, this gifted yet modest artist openly expresses her warmth and earnest admiration toward her first piano teacher, Noriko Hikida. “I loved my teacher, whom I studied with for twelve years,” Hiromi says. “She was very unique. For small children, it’s hard to understand all of the musical jargon, the musical expressions, the specialized signs. Many of these are Italian words.” When the sheet music didn’t “talk” to her student during classical lessons, Hikida began to color the sheet music with color pencils. “So instead of, say, espressivo, she would color it with red,” Hiromi explains, “and when I had to play more melancholic, she would color it with blue. Sometimes when the music would say cantabile—like when you have to really sing it—she would draw a singing face. I could always see things visually because of learning with her, and I still do see colors and a lot of visual images when I play.” According to Hiromi, Hikida was a huge fan of jazz music. She sent the young pianist home with jazz LPs when she was eight. The first two jazz albums Hiromi says she was introduced to were Erroll Garner’s 1955 release, Concert by the Sea, and Oscar Peterson’s 1964 release, We Get Requests. She credits her teacher with showing her how to improvise and to play what she feels in the moment. Listening to these albums was her first experience with what was to become her preferred style of communication.
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“For me, playing music—especially improvising—is like conversation,” Hiromi says. “First you have to build up your vocabulary, then your phrasing; it’s like speaking a new language. Of course, when you are first introduced to music you are, in a sense, a baby, because you have no words equipped within you. Then you start listening to all of these great jazz giants, and you are trying to copy what you hear and play it back. Just like babies learn how to speak.” There comes a point in the process of learning language when you stop learning repetition and begin forming your own words and voice. Hiromi says music follows this pattern as well. “As this develops, the more you choose and pick how you want to have a conversation—which words you use, which words you feel comfortable using, and which words you feel strongly connected to,” she explains. “I think this is exactly how learning to improvise music is; it’s very similar.” When Hiromi plays music, she says that she has a visual image in her brain that is locked into every piece she creates. “Whenever I see beauty, it makes me want to write more,” she says. The inspiration may come from anywhere. “Any kind of conversation, landscapes, movies, sporting events—anything that moves me. Some things you just can’t force. When there is a fate to be met, it will happen.” Hiromi first came to the United States in 1999 to attend Berklee College of Music in Boston, Massachusetts. The young pianist had never been to a formal music school before, and unexpectedly found herself surrounded by the many
“IT WAS FASCINATING BECAUSE I ALWAYS KNEW THAT THERE WERE MILLIONS OF MUSICIANS IN THE WORLD, BUT TO SEE THAT MANY OF THEM IN ONE AREA REALLY EXCITED ME.”
talented musicians that attended the prestigious conservatories in her newfound neighborhood of Back Bay. “Basically everybody in that area is a musician,” she recalls. “Whenever you are walking down the street, going to the post office or the laundry, you are seeing musicians—people carrying cellos, trumpets, guitars. It was fascinating because I always knew that there were millions of musicians in the world, but to see that many of them in one area really excited me.” What amazed her about the United States more than the multitude of musicians was the multicultural diversity of the people she met. “There were people from everywhere, and this was so inspiring to me,” Hiromi says. “In Japan, most of the people are Japanese. Of course, we Japanese have differences in personality, but we have this kind of cultural unity somehow. It was my very first encounter with this kind of society, and it was a shock because
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Le monde nobody bowed! Everybody shakes hands or hugs, and some people give kisses on the cheek—everybody has a different way of greeting. When a greeting can be different, everything else can be different, including how you think, so it was like really seeing the world.”
day, every day—especially with these concerts. It’s like you’re the captain of a big boat, and all of your audience is on board. They trust you. They trust that you, the captain, will show them the new world and give them a good time. I feel that I am responsible, and I think it’s amazing that people decide to share the precious hours of their lives to come to the show.”
THOUGH HIROMI SEEMINGLY NEVER PLAYS A MISPLACED NOTE AS HER FINGERS MOVE ACROSS THE KEYS LIKE TEN DANCERS WHO HAVE KNOWN EACH OTHER SINCE BIRTH, SHE DOES THIS AT MOST TIMES WITH HER EYES CLOSED.
Though Hiromi seemingly never plays a misplaced note as her fingers move across the keys like ten dancers who have known each other since birth, she does this at most times with her eyes closed. “I always liked the color black because it makes me focus,” she explains. “Closing my eyes is the beginning of the story. It is like a movie theater when you first go in; it’s so dark, and that’s where the story begins. That’s how I always feel when I perform. You’re in the theater, and the moment that the music starts is always like the first page of the book, the start of the movie. It’s like the key to the new world—an excitement that you’re about to enjoy.” Hiromi lives to perform music and she will tell you, though most likely in a way unlike you’ve ever heard any musician put it: “I have a once-in-a-lifetime type of
Playing in different cities each night, all across the globe, makes Hiromi and the Trio Project’s performances truly once in a lifetime. She has loyal fans who may attend more than one concert, of course, but she loves that no two audiences are ever exactly the same. “You never sit next to the same people; you know that one row will never happen again,” she says. “We share our destiny together for that ninety minutes or two hours—we share our life, very precious hours of our life. I want to be in my best condition, and I want to give everything I have because that’s what I’ve always dreamed of. Nothing fulfills me more than that. I feel so happy when we can have an exciting ride together, and I see that the audience is fulfilled because they decided to come. You know, maybe some people didn’t want to come; maybe they just came because their friend insisted. You never know why they are there, but we’re on the same fate—we’re on the same boat! As their captain, I am responsible.”
For more information about Hiromi, her music, and her tour schedule, visit her website at www.hiromimusic.com.
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Le monde
LOOK . The Homeless Are Not Invisible By Jeremy Reynalds, PhD
“When poverty knocks on the door, love flies out the window.” It was just a simple quotation spoken by American celebrity TV Chef Robert Irvine on his cooking show, but it grabbed me the minute I heard it.
In the United States, the majority of citizens probably don’t give much thought to how to survive day by day. We live in what many call “the First World,” where concerns are more related to how to snag the latest iPhone model than finding a safe place to sleep at night. We may think homelessness is a condition that happens to other people, not ourselves. However, as CEO of Joy Junction, New Mexico’s largest emergency homeless shelter, I see those in states of extreme poverty and despair on a daily basis, and I was curious to find out what our guests felt about Robert Irvine’s statement. One male guest said his poverty and consequent homelessness resulted in his finding out “people’s bad ways.” He continued, “Their attitude changed toward me. Some people would come up and laugh at me.” Another Joy Junction guest said she became homeless at the age of thirty-five. “I lost a beautiful four-bedroom home. I lost all sense of safety and security, life, and my world as I knew it. My world was completely turned upside down.” Friends and family began to judge her and turned their backs on her and her children. She said, “They never offered to help us.” However, it wasn’t all bad. Her relationships with her children, who were four, ten, and fourteen at the time, deepened. She said, “My two older children understood what had happened and knew that we needed to get closer.”
One guest said that when she first became homeless, her family made the situation even worse. However, that wasn’t the case with her relationship with her husband. “We are now stronger as a couple because we needed to rely on each other when others abandoned us. We’ve learned to be more supportive of each other.” A forty-year-old woman said that when she became homeless, it affected her relationship with her husband, her kids, and others around her. It was deeply stressful. “It was an everyday battle trying to figure out how to pay for our hotel room again. Most of the time, we would sell drugs to come up with the money, but some days, there were not enough sales. I started shoplifting merchandise from stores.” Another guest said his homelessness has had a big impact not just on his children and their mother but also on his own mother and sisters. He said, “They worry all of the time about how I’m doing, where I’m at, and if I’m eating well. They especially worry about if I take care of myself. And if I have a safe place to sleep at night throughout this cold season.” V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 45
Le monde “It was an everyday battle trying to figure out how to pay for our hotel room again. Most of the time, we would sell drugs to come up with the money, but some days, there were not enough sales. I started shoplifting merchandise from stores.” So the question remains: When poverty knocks, does love fly out the window? Answers vary, but there seems to be no doubt that lack of money can lead to a crisis.
A Mixed Bag Full of Trouble One definition of a crisis is “a time of intense difficulty, trouble, or danger.” That applies well to the homeless person’s everyday existence. Some American statistics show that 78 percent of all sheltered homeless persons are adults. Of those, 61 percent are male, 62 percent are members of a minority group, 38 percent are thirty-one to fifty years of age, 64 percent are in single-person households, and 38 percent have a disability. Two-thirds have stayed in an emergency shelter or transitional housing program, and onethird have lived on the street or in an abandoned building or other dangerous places. News stories of homeless people being killed for no reason in such places sometimes appear in cities across America. There are hundreds of reasons why people are homeless. A lack of affordable housing, the limited scale of housing assistance programs, and an epidemic of home foreclosures have contributed to a booming housing crisis and homelessness. Other reasons for the rise in homelessness include the lack of employment opportunities and a decline in public assistance. The official poverty rate in the United States was 13.5 percent in 2015 with 43.1 million people living in poverty. Homelessness and poverty are closely linked because poor people cannot pay for housing (which absorbs most of one’s income), food, childcare, health care, and education. With very limited resources, it is often housing that is dropped. Deficiencies in available health care also contribute. A serious illness or disability can start a downward spiral to eviction and eventual homelessness. Many people are a mere paycheck or illness away from homelessness.
Domestic violence forces many women to choose between living in an abusive relationship and being homeless. Alcohol and drug addiction can also lead to homelessness. Of course, not all who are addicted become homeless, but poor people who are addicted are clearly at increased risk. A sixty-one-year-old Joy Junction guest confessed, “It’s breaking my heart” to be homeless. She said she has been homeless for four years, and her age and dental problems have made it very difficult for her to find work. Would it be fair to say she’s been in crisis for four years? I think so. Our Joy Junction Facebook followers have commented that homelessness has long been a crisis. One person wrote, “Some people just have worn blinders.” I called
one of my previous books Now You See Me because I believe featuring actual people and the reasons they became homeless helps to remove those blinders. So do we have a homeless crisis in Albuquerque? We do, every day, when you define the word crisis as “a time of intense difficulty, trouble, or danger.”
To give or not to give? That is the question. Sometimes, the homeless reject our offers of help. Although we might find ourselves saying, “Well, he doesn’t want help,” we need to go beyond that. My thirty-four-plus years among New Mexico’s homeless have convinced me that people don’t set out to be homeless. Sinking into homelessness often begins with the abuse of alcohol or drugs to mask unbearable emotional pain. The substance soon becomes a cruel taskmaster, and the quicksand of addiction begins. A bed in an apartment is exchanged for a precarious existence on city streets, where an addict wanders and wobbles from one fix or high to the next. It’s a familiar dilemma. How do we compassionately help
the homeless without having to arrest them? The answers depend on which side of the fence you are on. Sometimes, local businesses struggle to keep the homeless from panhandling and leaving trash, vomit, and feces on their properties. One former shopping center manager wrote me that the homeless would sleep in the bushes by her building. Every Monday, her crew would collect a thirty-three-gallon bag of beer cans and bottles and would have to hose off urine and vomit and clean feces off the property. She said, “We would have to call the police because of the safety and cleanliness we owed the customers of our tenants. Some simply don’t want to be helped.” Is that really true? We asked some of our guests who had survived alcohol or drug addiction to describe what addiction did to them. A fifty-six-year woman said she had been “drinking, drugging, and having sex” since she was thirteen. “The unremembered days, blackouts, drunken sex, STDs, the violence, hurt to family and friends, the hurt to my self-esteem, loving, resentment of myself, my broken bones, being beaten, and suicidal thoughts. I was hungry, thirsty, and scared. Many times
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Sinking into homelessness often begins with the abuse of alcohol or drugs to mask unbearable emotional pain. The substance soon becomes a cruel taskmaster, and the quicksand of addiction begins. I’ve been used and abused, and with all of this comes defecating, urinating in public, and soiling myself.” Another heroin- and meth-addicted guest said her addiction caused her to give up her children’s custody to her parents. “This caused me to have a very bad relationship with my family. It has also caused many physical problems such as permanent track mark scars, Hep C, and messed-up teeth.” The situation got so bad that year that she ended up hospitalized as the result of an infection incurred from shooting up in her leg. While she was in the hospital, she decided to get clean. “I’ve been clean for almost seven months.” For addicts and others, panhandling often offers a way to survive. We occasionally hear anecdotal tales about panhandlers who make hundreds of dollars a day. The truth is often very different.
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One guest said her worst time panhandling was on her daughter’s birthday. “I put a birthday pin on her while I panhandled. I spent the money at the Dollar Tree and bought her a birthday balloon. I will never do it again.” Another person related a sad story. After her sister had died, the family was unable to afford the burial cost. “I wasn’t working at the time, so I made a big sign asking for donations. One woman looked at me like I had dirt on my face.” However, the panhandler did raise $70 and a gift card. Someone else said he had panhandled mostly for food and occasionally for shelter and clothing. He said his worst experiences were when people were “rude or mean.” He added, “These experiences just bring me down, and I’ll stop for that day, but I’ll have no food (money) for that day.”
Le monde
We decided to find out for ourselves what panhandling is like. A few years ago, a Joy Junction staff member dressed up in jeans and a stained T-shirt and stood on a busy corner with a sign. At the end of the day, she walked away with about fourteen dollars and food from McDonald’s given to her by one woman who had leftovers from a recent order. All the money was donated to Joy Junction.
What is the best response to the homeless and hungry? As a rule, I suggest that as opposed to giving money, give a gift card to a fast food restaurant. At a minimum, recipients will be able to get themselves something to eat. If you choose to give money, do so with no expectations as to how it will be used. Then, do more if you can. A simple hello or eye contact goes a long way. Find out the person’s name. One homeless resident of Joy Junction reminded me the homeless do have names and that we should use them.
The Rewards of Kindness A male guest told us what caused him to change his life. His meth addiction made him think he was invincible. “I remember one time when I was high, I was very well dressed, but there was no restroom around. I even looked for a bush but found nothing. I had no choice but to defecate in my pants.”
“I remember that after I bagged the pants and threw them in a waste bin, my apartment manager found them and had them cleaned for me. What a great man! I’ll never forget his generosity. That kindness caused me to change my life and try to find help.”
What was the turning point? He said, “I remember that after I bagged the pants and threw them in a waste bin, my apartment manager found them and had them cleaned for me. What a great man! I’ll never forget his generosity. That kindness caused me to change my life and try to find help.” From a personal standpoint, I hate to think what would have happened to me if years ago people had written me off as worthless and lazy. Instead, kind people helped me and gave me work as well as a place to stay. Here’s the moral: Each of these kind people could have closed their doors to us. Today, I see lives transformed by helping and caring people who volunteer at Joy Junction or who help the seemingly helpless in a variety of ways. Whether in the United States or elsewhere, you can be one of them. Is there a homeless crisis in your city or community? Ask yourself if you see it in the faces of people or whether it’s just something you hear about. Let’s continue the discussion and come up with creative solutions to better the plight of those most
Photo by elbud, Shutterstock
unable to take care of themselves. Such a discussion can do nothing but good because to be blunt, homelessness sucks. Just ask a homeless person, wherever they may be in the world.
Dr. Jeremy Reynalds was born in England, immigrated to the United States in 1978, and is now a US citizen. After being homeless for a time, Jeremy founded a ministry for the homeless in Santa Fe and is founder and CEO of Joy Junction. He has a master’s degree in communication and a PhD in intercultural education. Reynalds has authored several books on the subject of homelessness including A Sheltered Life: Take It to the Streets, Homeless in the City II: A Mission of Love, and Two Hearts, One Vision: Helping the Homeless Together. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 49
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Emeril and Alden Lagasse at Caliza Pool and Restaurant in picturesque Alys Beach, Florida, for VIE’s March/April 2014 issue cover shoot. Photo by Romona Robbins
Bon appétit! THE ESSENCE OF LIFE
A beautiful and giving couple, Emeril and Alden Lagasse continue to inspire with their philanthropic endeavors. We are proud to call them neighbors in our home region of Northwest Florida and loved having them on the cover of our 2014 Food and Fashion Issue. See how the Emeril Lagasse Foundation continues to help children in need on page 54. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 53
Bon appétit!
Emeril and Alden Lagasse attend VIE’s farm-to-table dinner at Arnett’s Gulfside Trail Rides, Stables, and Campground in 2013. Photo by Carlo Pieroni.
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PHILANTHROPY IS
GOOD The Emeril Lagasse Foundation Gives Back By Tori Phelps
The Tenth Annual Throwdown Benefit Auction and Barbecue and its partnering events tapped the power of meat, wine, and Emeril Lagasse to raise nearly a million dollars for local Northwest Florida charities in a single weekend.
Lagasse was one of the first celebrity chefs of the modern era, luring millions of people back into the kitchen with approachable cookbooks and TV shows that became cultural touchstones. However, much of Emeril Lagasse’s focus today is on his charitable foundation, which has quietly impacted the lives of thousands of the South’s most vulnerable children. Famously (and genuinely) humble, Lagasse would much rather put the spotlight on friends of the foundation, like Mike “Chi Chi Miguel” and Valerie Thompson of Thompson 31Fifty Wines, who were the driving forces behind last April’s Throwdown Benefit Auction and Barbecue. (In fact, the Thompsons founded the event a decade ago.) Presented by the Emeril Lagasse Foundation, it raised over $700,000 for Gulf Coast charities. When you add in the weekend’s partner events— a Sip N’ Shop at Bijoux restaurant and the Chi Chi Miguel Golf Tournament at Burnt Pine Golf Club—the jaw-dropping total reaches nearly $900,000. The Throwdown started as a small backyard get-together, organized to answer the question “Can winemakers cook?” In the ensuing decade, the cooking question has (deliciously) been put to rest as the Throwdown has evolved into a highprofile experience that attracts attendees from across the country. “Valerie took a great party and grew it into a major weekend event,” Mike says of his wife.
While the Thompsons are stunned that it’s become a fund-raising phenomenon, the Throwdown is an easy-to-love blend of fun barbecue cook-off, great wines from renowned vintners, and foodies who prefer their parties with a side of philanthropy. Set against the beauty of Santa Rosa Beach, the weekend kicked off with the “great wines” element, showcasing pours by winemakers Julianna Martinelli of Martinelli Winery, Adam Craun of Memento Mori, and Mark Heitz of Dakota Shy. Next up were silent and live auctions that tempted guests with private wine estate experiences, collectible wines, luxury travel expeditions, and fine art. The main event—the Throwdown itself—featured five teams with notables like Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne Winery, David Long of David Arthur Vineyards, and Emeril Lagasse himself. While chasing the coveted Perpetually Porkified trophy, presented after a blind tasting by celebrity judges Beau McMillan, Dustin Valette, Tim Creehan, Chan Cox, and Jim Richard, contestants exercise their creativity not only through their ribs and side dishes but through costumes and props as well. These fierce competitors bring their A games to the table (pun intended) in pursuit of the trophy and bragging rights, but the real Throwdown winners are local charities. Through grants, the Emeril Lagasse Foundation distributed the
V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 55
Mike has even joined the Emeril Lagasse Foundation’s board of directors. “We believe strongly in the charities we support, and that motivates us,” he says. It’s not hard to be motivated by the Emeril Lagasse Foundation and its kid-centered mission. The organization funds projects that encourage and support the youth through culinary, nutrition, and arts education. Alleviating hunger and helping kids find their way in the world is all in a day’s work for the Foundation, which was launched in 2002. While it’s headquartered in New Orleans, the Foundation’s reach extends throughout the Gulf Coast.
“Whether it’s educating them about where food comes from or teaching invaluable life skills that help them create their own futures, the Foundation has been life-changing for so many children.”
Above: Steve and Lynn Dugas with Valerie and Mike “Chi Chi Miguel” Thompson at the 2016 Throwdown Benefit Auction and Barbecue. Photo by Steven Freeman. Opposite: Volunteers stock the pantry for Food for Thought Outreach, Inc. near Destin, Florida.
weekend’s proceeds to Emerald Coast Children’s Advocacy Center, Camille’s Art for Autism, Sinfonia Gulf Coast, Alaqua Animal Refuge, Food for Thought Outreach, the Ingram Lee Foundation, and Children’s Volunteer Health Network. Lagasse is more than a name and a face at the Throwdown; he puts in the behind-the-scenes work as well. Beside him in that effort is Lagasse’s wife, Alden, cofounder of the Emeril Lagasse Foundation and a passionate philanthropist, who devotes much of her time to the foundation and its activities. She’s happy to do so, especially when an event benefits so many charities in and around the family’s adopted home—and when good friends are involved. Alden and her husband met the Thompsons several years ago, not long after the Lagasses bought a home in South Walton. Their friendship, forged through a common love of food and wine (“What better neighbors to have, right?” Alden asks), has become a charitable powerhouse. A seasoned philanthropist himself,
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Some of its primary projects include an outdoor classroom, gardens, a fresh food cafeteria and teaching kitchen at the Edible Schoolyard New Orleans, an accessible learning kitchen for special needs students at Saint Michael Special School, a four-year culinary arts program for high school students at New Orleans Center for the Creative Arts, and hospitality training for at-risk kids through the Emeril Lagasse Foundation Hospitality Center at Café Reconcile and Liberty’s Kitchen. According to Emeril, it’s not an option for his family to sit on the sidelines when so many children are in need. “We hope to provide inspiration, opportunity, and the tools they need to reach their fullest potential,” he says. “Whether it’s educating them about where food comes from or teaching invaluable life skills that help them create their own futures, the Foundation has been life-changing for so many children.” The Foundation’s numbers attest to the good it does—like the nearly 900,000 Second Harvest meals served to hungry kids since 2010 and the 33,500-plus meals provided by Liberty’s Kitchen to low-income school children last year alone, thus allowing those kids to participate in enrichment activities. Thousands of additional youth have been empowered and equipped for a brighter future through culinary training. As parents, Alden and Emeril are naturally drawn to the plight of children in need. It turns out that food—another thing they’re drawn to—solves a host of issues, from hunger to lack of career opportunities to intergenerational cycles of unhealthy eating habits. “There is so much need to reach kids outside of the traditional classroom,” Alden says. “Preparing a meal, understanding where it comes from, and sharing it with others add up to an experience that grounds and connects everyone. It’s an important part of creating a foundation for success.” Childhood hunger, of course, is a real and immediate problem in this country. That’s why Alden is especially proud of the Foundation’s involvement with Second Harvest, a critical program that feeds kids all over southeastern Louisiana. These are kids who have little to no food available at home, she says, so it’s impossible to overstate the importance of the healthy breakfasts, lunches, and snacks the organization provides for 4,500 kids each day.
Bon appétit!
“One of the things I find most rewarding is to learn about students that graduate from one school or a program we support, and then continue on to another.”
It would be easy to become paralyzed by the overwhelming need the foundation is trying to address, but the little victories encourage them to keep pushing forward. “I love hearing the stories of kids whose lives have been touched by the Foundation,” Alden shares. “One of the things I find most rewarding is to learn about students that graduate from one school or a program we support, and then continue on to another. For example, one of Saint Michael’s graduates enrolled in Café Reconcile’s hospitality training program. The student learned the ropes of the restaurant business and is now employed at a café in New Orleans.”
Bon appétit! Next up, the Emeril Lagasse Foundation is developing a signature culinary garden and teaching kitchen program, which will be integrated into a series of elementary schools nationwide. There’s always more to do, which is why fund-raisers like the Throwdown are so crucial. Calling the generosity of guests at this year’s event “unparalleled,” Alden points out that many of the benefiting programs have grown as the Throwdown (and its donations) has grown. That’s a powerful reason to keep going—and a testament to the big-hearted nature of people on the Gulf Coast. The Lagasses are full-time residents now, in part because of what they’ve witnessed. “We’ve made many friends in this community through the Throwdown,” Alden says. “Everyone is focused on helping others, and their generosity truly shines through.” Chef Emeril and students participate in a kitchen training program supported by the Emeril Lagasse Foundation.
To learn more about the Emeril Lagasse Foundation, visit www.Emeril.org.
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Dream a Home. Discover a Lifestyle. H O M E S F R O M T H E M I D 4 0 0 ’ S S O U T H W A L T O N ’ S #1 S E L L I N G C O M M U N I T Y ON US 98 ACROSS FROM C A MP CREEK G OLF CLUB
1.866.563.0070 Watersound.com The St. Joe Company 2016 All Rights Reserved. “JOE®”, “St. Joe®”, “St. Joe (and the Taking Flight design)®”, the “Taking Flight” design®, “Fish Out of Water®” and “Watercolor®”are registered service marks of The St. Joe Company or its affiliates. “Watersound OriginsSM”, “OriginsSM” and “St. Joe Club & ResortsSM” are service marks of The St. Joe Company or its affiliates. The materials and features and amenities described and depicted herein are based upon current development plans, which are subject to change without notice. This does not constitute an offer to sell real property in any jurisdiction where prior registration or other advance qualifications of real property is required, including New York. Void where prohibited by law. Equal Housing Opportunity. St. Joe Club & Resorts is a private club, membership in which permits Watersound OriginsSM owners the use of facilities designated by the Club. Use of additional Club Facilities requires purchase of a separate membership upgrade. Club membership may be subject to application and acceptance, payment of fees, membership requirements, rules or other limitations, all of which are subject to change. Club Facilities are also available to other club members and persons who stay in rental program residences. The St. Joe Company does not guarantee the obligations of, nor provide any warranties for unaffiliated parties who build homes or offer services in the Watersound OriginsSM community.
Obtain the Property Report required by Federal Law and read it before signing anything. No federal agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property.
Bon appétit!
Yonnie Patronis, mastermind behind the legendary Capt. Anderson’s Wine Cellar and Wine Club, explained, “Louis XIII is called ‘One Century in a Bottle’ because it takes four generations of cellar masters over a hundred years to create each decanter. As we celebrate a half century at Capt. Anderson’s, Louis XIII was the perfect choice.”
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GOOD TIMES A 100-Year-Old Bottle and a 50-Year Anniversary B Y T O N I D AV I S | P H O T O G R A P H Y C O U R T E S Y O F C A P T . A N D E R S O N ’ S
I
n May of 2016, twenty-six guests attended a sold-out Louis XIII dinner experience hosted by the Patronis family and Rémy Martin in a private waterfront dining room at Capt. Anderson’s restaurant in Panama City Beach, Florida. The dinner, a celebration of the restaurant’s fifty-year legacy in the area, began with champagne and fresh seafood and culminated with the decadent—and delicious—presentation of a Louis XIII Grande Champagne Cognac decanter (retail price around $3,000 per bottle) for dessert. “It was a true pleasure and a great honor to host the first Louis XIII dinner experience ever in Panama City Beach with Yonnie and the whole Patronis family,” says Victor Blanquart, Rémy Martin’s Louis XIII brand ambassador for the southeastern United States. “Louis XIII and Capt. Anderson’s entertain a special relationship, and it was great to offer this unique and rare evening to such a wonderful group.” Johnny and Jimmy Patronis purchased Capt. Anderson’s in October of 1967, and every year the restaurant has grown without loss of quality. It now boasts 725 seats and is open six nights a week, serving over 250,000 guests annually during its eight-and-a-half-month season. The year 2017 marks Capt. Anderson’s fiftieth anniversary. Over these fifty years, Capt. Anderson’s has innovated many of the Gulf Coast’s classic dishes and has won the loyalty of millions of customers and friends. It is a local tradition to dine early at Capt. Anderson’s and watch the fishing fleets unload their catches of the day.
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Bon appétit! In this day and age, so much of what we eat comes in packages that say nothing about the quality of their contents. There’s a refreshing kind of magic in watching a load of fish tumbling from nets or lobsters being carried from a boat’s hold to the dock. It’s a sight that brings new meaning to most people’s idea of fresh seafood. When people sit at the water’s edge, smell the salty air, and watch the real hands-on process of a harvest, they are left with a lasting impression that touches much more than their appetites. Capt. Anderson’s millions of fans aren’t just repeat customers; they’ve become part of an ongoing tradition that takes place every night at this special Northwest Florida landmark. As Capt. Anderson’s has grown slowly and carefully over the past five decades, it has maintained its original flavor. Many of the restaurant’s offerings have become classics and never budged from the menu. In fact, they’re proudly marked with asterisks: Johnny’s Special Greek Salad with Crabmeat and Gulf Shrimp, Shrimp Scampi, Oven-Broiled Whole Stuffed Gulf
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Capt. Anderson’s restaurant is one of those rare “family” restaurants that not only survives, but strengthens and improves through the years. Flounder, and the World’s Finest Seafood Platter, just to name a few. Capt. Anderson’s is also the perfect place to take in a colorful sunset while enjoying a shrimp cocktail, a cup of New Orleans–style gumbo, fish grilled in a Greek-style open-hearth charcoal broiler, or one of the kitchen’s churrasco steaks. Capt. Anderson’s restaurant is one of those rare “family” restaurants that not only survives but also strengthens and improves through the years. The
“This Louis XIII dinner experience was a grand success!” Blanquart says. “I was extremely impressed by the wonderful, warm welcome and the love for Louis XIII expressed by all the guests that evening. Six Louis XIII decanters and a Louis XIII Magnum were presold before the evening even began.”
Bon appétit!
These restaurants do more than serve fresh seafood; they participate in nurturing relationships between those who live by the water and those who visit coastline communities for pleasure and escape. Patronis family works with fishermen, oystermen, and others who make their living harvesting the Gulf and Bay waters year-round. Some of their goals are to preserve the natural oyster beds of Apalachicola Bay, to build artificial reefs, and to protect the fragile coastal ecology. Preserving and replenishing the rich natural bounty of the Gulf Coast is part of the Capt. Anderson legacy. This is one of the reasons this landmark restaurant is known for serving more fresh local seafood than any other in the area; it’s also one of the reasons Capt. Anderson’s has been consistently named among America’s top restaurants by publications
including Florida Trend, Wine Spectator, Restaurants & Institutions, and Panama City Living. Capt. Anderson’s was also voted the top seafood restaurant in the country by Southern Living readers for ten consecutive years. Seafood restaurants seem to abound on any given coast, but only a precious few blend into a wider community where working and playing by the sea describe a unique way of life. These restaurants do more than serve fresh seafood; they participate in nurturing relationships between those who live by the water and those who visit coastline communities for pleasure and escape.
W W W . C A P TA N D E R S O N . C O M
interiors for your abode at the beach or miles away
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4281 East County Highway 30A
Bon appétit!
A Treasure Trove of
IRISH MYTH
LEGEND and
FOLKLORE By colleen sachs Photography By romona robbins
Flaming Leprechaun, a new producer of premium spirits, has strong roots in the Irish tradition. It is bringing that tradition to the United States over the next two years, beginning in New England. In fact, Flaming Leprechaun became a part of that very American sport, NASCAR, by teaming up with BK Racing as a sponsor for driver David Ragan at the New Hampshire 301; their distinctive logo was seen going around the track on the number 23 Toyota at Loudon, New Hampshire, this past July.
The company’s premium spirits include Special Reserve Irish Whiskey (92 proof ), Limestone Filtered Vodka (80 proof ), Limestone Filtered Gin (88 proof ), Triple Distilled Rum (80 proof ), and Fiery Irish Cinnamon Spirit (70 proof ). Flaming Leprechaun Spirits is a brand of Three Hearts of Ireland and Malcolm Brown Ltd. Of course, the proof is in the tasting, and Flaming Leprechaun made a big splash at the sixteenth annual San Francisco World Spirits Competition this past March. All of the spirits earned an award, with gin and vodka taking home double gold medals, a silver 66 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
medal going to the Irish whiskey, and the rum and the cinnamon spirit each earning bronze medals. These are serious spirits built on ingredients that are pure and of high quality, but as its name suggests, Flaming Leprechaun also treats its brand with a twinkle of fun. The front of each bottle is adorned with its own fierce-looking leprechaun, whose story is poetically told on the back label. Whether it is Ronan picking juniper berries or Brendan discovering the secret of rum on the island of Montserrat, each story enhances the character of its leprechaun and the liquor he represents.
“
Sláinte mhaith!
”
The limestone filtered gin is simply delicious. Its complex botanical notes (juniper berry, coriander, lemon, orange, cassia bark, angelica root, sloe, and nutmeg) make it the perfect choice for making a classic gimlet through which its best features can shine. To mix a gimlet, place one and a half ounces of Flaming Leprechaun gin, the juice of a lime, a tablespoon of agave nectar (which I prefer over simple syrup), and ice cubes in a cocktail shaker. Shake well and pour into a glass, either straight up or on the rocks. Rum is a good foundation for many different mixers. Try a twist on a classic with a Brendan’s Libre: Fill
a glass with ice and two or three ounces of Flaming Leprechaun rum, and squeeze a quarter of a lime into it. Add a half teaspoon of pure vanilla extract, and top off with cola. Lime and vanilla are lovely together, and the vanilla adds richness and interest to a standard drink.
Flaming Leprechaun’s Fiery Irish Cinnamon Spirit is quite versatile. It can be sipped, mixed into cocktails, baked into an apple pie or other baked goods, or teamed up with hard cider or beer. A strong cinnamon flavor adds heat but does not overpower the taste of the whiskey.
Flaming Leprechaun’s Irish whiskey gains its golden hue and sweet character from wooden casks, where it is aged for at least three years. No sweetener or coloring is added to the blend, so nothing interferes with the authentic character. This is a good whiskey for sipping, either neat or on the rocks.
Flaming Leprechaun spirits have an attractive price point. Given their high quality, particularly of the gin and the vodka, these spirits are an exceptional value. Enjoy them in these recipes or in your favorite concoctions. Sláinte mhaith!
Gr ay ton 19 68
Original G rayto
n Girl
Flaming Leprechaun Drink Recipes
The Smoky Ultan makes one cocktail
Flaming Leprechaun’s classic Irish whiskey is excellent mixed with two unorthodox ingredients: maple syrup and smoke. The combination creates a wonderful burnt-sugar taste and is akin to sipping whiskey while at a barbecue.
ingredients » 1/2 ounce of Flaming Leprechaun Special Reserve Irish Whiskey » 1 tablespoon of maple syrup » Smoked ice (method below)
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Place the whiskey and maple syrup in a glass and gently stir to blend. Add a cube or two of smoked ice. Enjoy! To make the smoked ice cubes, you will need: ice, heavy-duty foil, a large pot with a tight-fitting lid, wood chips, a heatproof pan that will fit inside the pot, and plastic wrap.
For making the smoked ice cubes, start with ice instead of water, since smoke is attracted to cold. Turn the vent over the cooktop to high. Line your pot with heavy-duty foil. Sprinkle the foil with wood chips and cover loosely with a crumpled piece of foil; this will provide a platform for the heatproof pan. Turn the heat on high and cover the pot. When smoke is evident, place the desired amount of ice in the heatproof pan, place the pan in the pot, and cover the pot. Let the ice smoke for five minutes. It should be mostly melted. Carefully remove the pan from the pot (tongs can be helpful here) and set aside until the ice has melted completely. Pour the smoky water into an ice tray or ice molds, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and freeze.
Bon appétit!
Caife Fintan
Lorcan’s Elixir
The sweetness makes Flaming Leprechaun’s Fiery Cinnamon spirit perfect for an after-dinner concoction. The following recipe is a fiery Irish take on the New Orleans original café brûlot.
Flaming Leprechaun’s wheat-based vodka has a clean, pure quality. It inspired what I’m calling Lorcan’s Elixir, an invigorating mix with fresh ginger, lemon, and honey.
ingredients
ingredients
» 6-inch strip of orange peel (without the white pith) » 10 cloves » 6-inch strip of lemon peel (without the white pith) » 1/3 cup of Flaming Leprechaun Fiery Irish Cinnamon Spirit » 1/3 cup of orange liqueur » 2 cups of hot strong black coffee » Large saucepan
» A one-inch piece of ginger, roughly chopped » 1/2 a lemon, cut into four pieces » 1 tablespoon honey » 1 1/2 ounces Flaming Leprechaun Limestone Filtered Vodka » Club soda (optional) » Ice
makes four servings
Stud the orange peel with the cloves. Add the orange and lemon peels to a large, wide pan. Add the Cinnamon Spirit and orange liqueur and heat gently over medium heat. Once warm, flame the mixture (make sure that the vent is turned off ) by either tipping the pan toward a gas flame or using a long match. As the flame begins to subside, pour the coffee over the mixture. Ladle into demitasse cups, and enjoy hot.
makes one cocktail
Place the ginger in a cocktail shaker, and crush it with a muddler. Add the lemon and honey and muddle together. Add the vodka and then the ice cubes. Shake well and strain into a glass filled with ice cubes. For a variation, add club soda and stir. Learn more at FlamingLeprechaun.com
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A Testimonial Ficarra Builders built our home on Holiday Isle in Destin, and we could not be more pleased with the finished product. This was our first time using Alan Ficarra as our builder, but it was the fourth home that we have built—so we have had some experience with homebuilders. We have never recommended any of the other builders we have used; however, Alan is an exception! He is in a category by himself when it comes to quality and customer satisfaction. He is the best builder that we have experienced, and he will be our builder of choice if we ever decide to build again. Sincerely, Jon and Jackie Hodges
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T H E S O P H I ST I C AT E
Living a life of sophistication is not always about being the richest or having the most elegant, expensive things, but surrounding oneself with luxury can certainly bring out the glamour in life. This holiday season, share that feeling, experience, and culture with others. Browsing this collection, you may find perfect gifts for those on your list who delight in intellectual pleasures or traveling the world—or perhaps you’ll find a treat for yourself. Enjoy the finer things!
1
Dish It Out
Enchanted Caviar Dish with Spoon $400, michaelaram.com 72 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
2
All Bottled Up
Harcourt 1841 Clear Crystal Decanter $1,435, baccarat.com
Meet Your Match
3
Manila Bone Matte Snakeskin Boxing Gloves $1,450, elisabethweinstock.com
4
Pop the Confetti
Soap Dish Confetti Crystal Clutch Bag by Judith Leiber Couture $3,695, neimanmarcus.com
5
Head Over Heels
Joanie Platform in Gold Cherry ÂŁ450, harrietwilde.com
6
Oh So Coco!
Michael De Feo, Untitled (Kristin Stewart by Mario Testino for Chanel) $1,800, 1stdibs.com
Table of Contents
7
Lapiaz Center Table bocadolobo.com
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C’est la vie
Shaken, Not Stirred
8
Monocles Brass Bar Cabinet delightfull.eu
9
Table Manners
New Antique Crystal and Carrara Marble Table $68,000, baccarat.com
Kiss and Makeup
10
Limited Edition Eye and Lip Palettes featuring Ashley Longshore Art $65–$125, cledepeaubeaute.com
Chic It Out!
11
Assouline, The Big Book of Chic $75, barneys.com
12
Well-Read
Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice First Edition £87,500, peterharrington.co.uk
Chairs to Us!
13
Betania Armchair delightfull.eu
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Right on Track
14
Belmond Grand Hibernian Train Journeys, Ireland belmond.com V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 75
C’est la vie
15
Ritzy Glitzy
A Stay at the Ritz Paris ritzparis.com
Just a Second
16
Gomelsky by Shinola Sandstone Dial with 14 Diamonds, $1,000 Gomelsky by Shinola Lapis Dial, $2,300, shinola.com
17
Viva la Vino
Vida Wine Gems $100, anna-newyork.com
As Bold as Brass
18
Matheny Suspension Fixtures delightfull.eu
World Traveler
19
Taschen, The New York Times: 36 Hours World $125, barneys.com
Fly Me to the Moon
20
Dionysus Embroidered Shoulder Bag by Gucci $3,600, neimanmarcus.com
21
Girl’s Best Friend
Zaha Hadid Lamellae Ring georgjensen.com
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SHOPS OF DESTINY 36236 Emerald Coast Parkway Suite B, Destin, Florida 32541 (850) 837-8750 DestinThreads.com
Sartorial Christian Siriano Resort 2017 collection being shown at Caliza Pool in Alys Beach, Florida, on October 7, 2016, during South Walton Fashion Week. Photo by Brenna Kneiss
Sartorial STRIKE A POSE
South Walton Fashion Week, held along the coastal communities of Northwest Florida’s Walton County this past October, saw an influx of talented designers and models, plus an all-star lineup of celebrity judges. The Emerging Designer Competition judges panel included Council of Fashion Designers of America member Christian Siriano, whose gowns adorn the covers of this issue and of Connemara Life magazine in our Voyager special edition.
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Sartorial
A Hunting We Will Go Christian Siriano gown, Resort 2015 collection; gloves, fox fur stole, and bubble hat in black by Surell Accessories 80 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Sartorial
Enchantment An
Ballynahinch Castle and Christian Siriano Fashions Inspire the Feminine Hunter
Jordan Staggs PHOTOGRAPHY BY Alex Hutchinson BY
Classical music filters through the elegant dining room as hairstylist Louise Jordan adjusts the soft golden curls of model Clara McSweeney. ‘This absolutely never happens,’ remarks photographer Alex Hutchinson. Everyone—the hotel staff at Ballynahinch Castle, videographer Barry Ryan, and the hair and make-up team from Bellissimo Galway salon— has commented on the incredibly rare sunny weather. It’s almost as if, after months of harsh winter rains, Ireland cleared its skies just for this. ‘Is this song from a Disney movie?’ Hutchinson asks with a grin as everyone deliberates. ‘I’m surprised I don’t know—I’m such a Disney fan,’ says McSweeney, looking every bit the part of a princess in a feathered calf-length gown and nude pumps by renowned American fashion designer Christian Siriano. Ryan mentions Beauty and the Beast, a fitting story for the day’s theme, as the photo shoot was inspired by the ‘feminine hunter’. The soft feathers and silk gowns by Siriano, a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, flow seamlessly into the rustic beauty of the castle hotel.
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A Huntress and Her Hounds On Clara: Christian Siriano gown, Resort 2015 collection; fox fur stole and bubble hat in black by Surell Accessories
A Whisper in the Forest On Faye: Christian Siriano blush silk chiffon pleated gown; gloves and fox fur cuffs and bubble hat in crystal by Surell Accessories; necklace from Destin Jewelers
Sartorial
Sunlight glimmers off the calmly flowing Owenmore River below the castle and filters beautifully through the panoramic windows that span the length of the dining rooms. Guests enjoy a quiet morning breakfast, occasionally peeking curiously into the adjoining space where Hutchinson and his crew are working. They are taking advantage of the beautiful natural light, while the Bellissimo team prepare model Faye Dinsmore for a shot outside on the castle grounds.
A F airy-Tale Landscape
Ballynahinch Castle, a shining diamond tucked away in the rugged yet enchanting wilderness of Connemara, is a four-star luxury hotel boasting forty-eight charming guest rooms, a friendly and knowledgeable staff, endless scenic views, and a cornucopia of on-site and nearby activities that include hiking and walking, biking, fly fishing, tennis, clay and woodcock shooting, horseback riding, and even a boat trip to a local deserted island. The estate takes its name from the Gaeilge Baile na hInse, meaning ‘dwelling on the island’, which refers to the grounds’ original sixteenthcentury O’Flaherty Castle, whose ruins sit on an island in Ballynahinch Lake to the north. The Martin family of Galway inherited the 250,000 acres of land occupied by the O’Flahertys when the feudal system was disbanded and began construction on Ballynahinch Castle in the 1750s. A member of the family, Richard ‘Humanity Dick’ Martin, who was a V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 83
Ethereal Solitude Christian Siriano blush and ivory feather embroidered chiffon and organza dress; ring from Destin Jewelers 84 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Sartorial
‘There is something incredibly charming and relaxing about walking the riverbank, watching the water swirl and eddy.’ member of parliament for Galway and a staunch animal rights activist (as well as an accomplished duellist), introduced the first legislation affording animals rights in Ireland and also founded the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Looking carefully upon entering the castle, one can see a placard in his honour just to the left of the front door. When the Martins fled from debt collectors in the 1870s, the land once again changed ownership, first to the Berridge family of Ireland and then into the hands of royalty, as would befit such a castle. The Indian Prince Ranjitsinhji, the Maharaja of Nawanagar, a world-class cricketer who played for England, acquired Ballynahinch
and spent the fishing season—from February through September—at the castle every year until his death in 1933. Ranji, as he was affectionately known, was well regarded by the castle staff, and his name is emblazoned opposite Humanity Dick’s at the castle’s main entrance. Guests can also raise a glass to these former proprietors as they enjoy casual dining and drinks in the cosy Ranji Room, just past the Fisherman’s Pub on the castle’s west side. Ballynahinch Castle began welcoming visitors from the world over after becoming a hotel in 1946, and although it has changed ownership a few times since and has recently undergone some extensive renovations under the care of passionate owners Catherine and Denis O’Brien, its hospitality and charm have never failed. ‘There is something incredibly charming and relaxing about walking the riverbank, watching the water swirl and eddy. Truly, catching a fish is a bonus,’ says Ballynahinch Castle’s general manager of nineteen years, Patrick O’Flaherty, who enjoys walking the grounds and taking advantage of the superb fly fishing for wild Atlantic salmon, sea trout, and wild brown trout when he’s able to steal a few hours away from running the busy hotel and its amenities. O’Flaherty resides on the grounds with his wife, Cliodhna Prendergast—an accomplished chef, food blogger, and food photographer also featured in this issue—and their children, Jake, Iseult, and Milo. In addition to the fishing season, which is most active from April on for trout and June on for salmon, castle guests may enjoy activities year-round. Shooting lessons with instructor Shane Bisgood, who studied at the Holland & Holland Shooting Grounds near London, is an adventurous pastime for those who wish to test their marksmanship. Ballynahinch also charters a boat from nearby Roundstone, captained by one of the castle’s team members, John O’Sullivan. The three-hour trip takes passengers across the bay to the idyllic deserted island of Inishlacken, where they may stop for photographs and take in the briny fresh air before continuing on to visit a lobster fishery. On the way, sights include grey seals, various sea birds, and, of course, Connemara’s iconic stone walls and lush greenery, which hark back to a time lost in other parts of the world but never forgotten in Ireland’s west. ‘It truly is a magical trip’, O’Flaherty assures, ‘and guests often return with lobster for dinner.’ V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 85
Sartorial
‘I’ve been on a lot of photo shoots, and people always think I’m the assistant’, the thirty-yearold designer jokes, ‘until I come barrelling through and change everything.’ The Owenmore Restaurant is perhaps the jewel in the crown that is Ballynahinch Castle—or it at least shares that title with the breathtaking landscape surrounding it and the river for which it was named. Its windows span the back of the castle, overlooking the river and surrounding forests, and its fare is fresh, local, and nothing short of divine. Head chef Ultan Cooke and his team strive to delight guests with every meal, from spectacular gourmet options in the Owenmore dining room to the traditional selections in the Fisherman’s Pub. A breakfast buffet and hot selections from the kitchen are also available each morning in the Owenmore room, and one should not miss the chance to sit by the windows and sip tea or coffee as the wilderness of Ballynahinch awakens. Indeed, with a full range of on-site activities at Ballynahinch Castle and a robust calendar of festivals, music, theatre, and athletic events throughout the year in Connemara, it is never the wrong time to visit Ireland’s west.
A M agical Scene
‘Can you tilt your head that way, please?’ Siriano asks model Faye Dinsmore as she poses against a vine-strewn wall on the castle grounds. He snaps a quick iPhone photo of her with her fellow princess for the day, McSweeney. Meanwhile, Hutchinson, an accomplished young photographer based in Dublin whose portfolio includes shooting for magazines and other publications around the world, is setting up his next shot with the help of staff members from Connemara Equestrian Escapes. Dinsmore stands regally, holding the leads of two dappled spaniels, Maggie and Cindy, as McSweeney shoulders a hunting rifle. Elegant pieces from Destin Jewelers in Florida, along with chic fur hats, stoles, and cuffs by Surell Accessories, perfectly complement Siriano’s gowns, evoking a vibe of Doctor Zhivago with a couture edge—the creative vision of Connemara Life and VIE magazine editor-in-chief, Lisa Burwell. ‘I think the skirt’s going to lay really nicely here,’ Siriano remarks as he adjusts McSweeney’s feathered ballroomstyle skirt while she sits tall on horseback. He stands by attentively, jumping in occasionally to adjust his creations and offer encouragement and praise to the models. ‘I’ve been on a lot of photo shoots, and people always think I’m the assistant’, the thirty-year-old designer jokes, ‘until I come barrelling through and change everything.’ 86 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
That’s how he works—sitting back on the sidelines and observing until it’s time to jump in and make magic happen for Hutchinson’s camera, working seamlessly along with the whole magazine crew and the staff of Ballynahinch and Connemara Equestrian Escapes. It’s the same way Siriano operates his business endeavours, from designing to marketing and creative collaborations with national American brands such as Payless, Lane Bryant, and Bed Bath and Beyond; he is personally involved and has the final word in how his own brand will be perceived. His gowns were featured on the cover of VIE in November 2015, worn by Tony Award–winning actress and performer Kristin Chenoweth and other prominent members of the theatre and classical music scenes in New York City. It was after this shoot that collaborations began to bring Siriano and his designs to Ireland for the fairy-tale inspired castle photo shoot.
A Queen and Her Castle Christian Siriano ivory feathered fringe cape gown; 18ct yellow gold and baroque freshwater pearl earrings by Yvel; fur bubble hat by Surell Accessories V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 87
Catch Me If You Can Sheer long-sleeve knit top and ivory feathered fringe ball gown by Christian Siriano; necklace by S. Carter Designs
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Sartorial Siriano’s then-fiancé, musician Brad Walsh (the pair wed in July of this year), takes candid shots behind the scenes and awaits his turn to climb into the saddle, shooting short video clips throughout the grounds to use in a music video for his new single, ‘Creases’, which debuted in late March 2016 along with his sixtrack EP titled Secondary. His first full-length album, Six Infinite, was released on October 28.
The region abounds with a refreshing air of unpretentious authenticity.
‘There was a quiet buzz about the hotel when the VIE/Connemara Life team arrived,’ O’Flaherty says. ‘The staff were thrilled to watch the shoot, see the models show off the beautiful Christian Siriano creations. In particular, though, everybody was impressed with how down-to-earth and unpretentious the team were—Alex on camera and models Clara and Faye were all a pleasure to work with.’
fishing rod for a shot out on the Owenmore. ‘I think that’s great’, Siriano says, ‘because it looks natural— it makes it more authentic.’
The Ballynahinch staff were accommodating to the utmost degree, and one of their own was even recruited as a background male model—Tarek Biddulph, who works in the castle and resides in the nearby town of Clifden. Burwell and her publishing team at The Idea Boutique—who held a grand opening celebration for their Clifden international branch office at Ballynahinch Castle in August 2014—have a tradition of recruiting local talent to join in on photo shoots, both in Ireland and the United States. Biddulph donned waders and wellies and took up a net and a fly
An Everlasting Love
Everything in Connemara seems to echo Siriano’s sentiment; the region abounds with a refreshing air of unpretentious authenticity. Its natural beauty and rural Irish culture, which is anchored in charm and tradition but also embraces the changing modern world and its many technological and social advancements, are captivating to visitors, including Siriano, Walsh, and the American team from VIE magazine. It was the love of Connemara, its people, and its culture that brought Lisa and Gerald Burwell to open the international branch of The Idea Boutique in Clifden, near Lisa’s extended family home in Tullycross, in 2014. Although the company’s headquarters is located along a very different coastline—on the Gulf of Mexico in north-west Florida—the Wild Atlantic Way has stolen the hearts of its owners and staff, and they aim to share the area’s wonders with the world via Connemara Life and other marketing endeavours in both Ireland and the United States. ‘The poet Michael Cody refers to Connemara as “a state of light,”’ O’Flaherty says. ‘I think this is a wonderful way to convey the magic of this part of Ireland. The landscape is in part dramatic, in part gentle. It can be severe or beguiling, and this constant change of character is all because of the light. Situated as we are on the Atlantic coast, the weather patterns are in constant flux, and the effect on the landscape of shadows and light is magnificent. ‘The people of Connemara are open, curious, and yet private,’ he continues. ‘There is a readiness to accept people into the community, which is sometimes lacking in rural life. There is a sense of duty to support and help your neighbour that I believe comes from living in what is a beautiful but harsh landscape. This, coupled with the fact V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 89
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Reflections of Beauty on the Owenmore River Christian Siriano gown, Spring/Summer 2012 collection; earrings from Destin Jewelers 90 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
It seems as though something more beautiful and exciting lies on every winding path, around every bend in the road, and over every rolling hill. that a great many Connemara families came from the islands, I think gives a strong sense of community. I know I could not wish for better neighbours.’ There are many things to love about Connemara, and one simply cannot discover them all in one visit. It seems as though something more beautiful and exciting lies on every winding path, around every bend in the road, and over every rolling hill. This landscape of light and shadows is best discovered for oneself, and Ballynahinch Castle hotel’s smiling staff and incomparable setting are dedicated to helping guests discover the magic of western Ireland for years to come.
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LOOK
THE HOMELESS are NOT INVISIBLE
INTRODUCING
LA SCÈNE WHERE IT’S AT
VOYAGER SPECIAL EDITION
CONNEMAR A LIFE 2016 Magazine Inside
SARTORIAL FEATURE
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO at IRELAND’S BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE
November / December 2016
NO STRINGS ATTACHED HIROMI UEHAR A’S JAZZ
PHILANTHROPY is GOOD EMERIL LAGASSE FOUNDATION GIVES BACK
C’EST LA VIE
a LIFE of HOLIDAY LUXURY
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the
BEARD'S TALE A Hysterical Account BY NICHOLAS S. RACHEOTES ILLUSTRATIONS BY RINN GARLANGER
What a history it has enjoyed: recommended by Holy Scripture, banned by a Russian czar, dignifying a man, degrading a woman, both idolized and feared by children, signifying that a professional sports team is in the play-offs, marking generations of protests, and adorning military heroes. Oh, I could go on, but by now you’ve guessed—it’s the human beard. If you doubt me and don’t have a rabbi handy, check Leviticus 19:27: “You shall not round off the hair on your temples or mar the edges of your beard.” Then, there was Peter the Great of Russia, who wanted his courtiers to be clean shaven as a sign of how modern and European they were. This decree, rumor has it, will be rescinded by the current leadership of Russia. Is it a sign of how superficial we’ve become that we believe facial hair endows a scientist or a scholar of the humanities with additional powers of insight? Likewise, what should we make of those generations past who spent their pennies to see the bearded lady in the circus? Many of us as children loved running our fingers through Santa’s fake whiskers as we asked for presents that would drive our parents into near
bankruptcy. Some of us, like Mark Twain’s characters, probably shrank down in our seats for fear that the steel-gray-bearded elder, when visiting our Sunday school class, would ask us an impossible question. On the weirder side, those baseball and hockey players with ear-to-ear plumage deceive us into thinking that their squad will win the series or hoist the Stanley Cup even though both teams are equally furry. I don’t dare leave out the Beats and Hipsters of the 1950s, who wished to ban the bomb, played coffeehouse bongos, wrote avant-garde poetry, and dug progressive jazz. Thereafter came the 1960s, when beards wagged against the war in Vietnam, in favor of civil rights, and to the music of the Woodstock generation and degeneration.
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If it hadn’t been for that little girl who, legend attests, told Honest Abe Lincoln that he would look really good in a beard, we might be seeing his chin on the five-dollar bill. Would we be able to tell the difference between Ulysses S. Grant and Robert E. Lee if not for their facial hair? How would we distinguish between Gene Autry’s partner, Gabby Hayes, and Mel Brooks’s mush-mouthed Gabby Johnson? And I don’t even want to get into Peter, Paul, and Mary.
If it hadn’t been for that little girl who, legend attests, told Honest Abe Lincoln that he would look really good in a beard, we might be seeing his chin on the five-dollar bill.
We’ve had the passages of life marked from the era of beardless youth through the russet foliage of manhood to that of grizzled old age. As for me, I come from the land of Gillette, so my jawline stays in plain sight—and I do mean plain.
Now, mustaches are another story, but they have no place here.
Nick Racheotes is a product of Boston public schools, Brandeis University, and Boston College, from which he holds a PhD in history. Since he retired from teaching at Framingham State University, Nick and his wife, Pat, divide their time between Boston, Cape Cod, and the Western world.
(Featuring The Firebird, Scheherazade and the balcony scene from Romeo & Juliet)
Introducing David Ott & The Northwest Florida Ballet Symphony Orchestra This season we are pleased to announce the creation of the Northwest Florida Ballet Symphony Orchestra led by renowned conductor and composer, David Ott. Join us at the Mattie Kelly Arts Center as the NFB Symphony Orchestra provides live musical accompaniment for The Nutcracker and From Russia With Love: A Celebration of the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo.
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Broadway starlet Morgan James in a one-of-a-kind look by New York–based designer Mimi Prober 98 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
The
NEW VINTAGE AN ARTISAN AT WORK BY MAD D I E R OW L E Y PH OT OG R A P H Y BY AK S H AY BH OAN
Fashion designer Mimi Prober’s dresses evoke a different era: a time when artisans handcrafted lace and spent hours beading garments pearl by pearl; a time of lavish, multicourse dinners, corsets, satin shoes, and chivalry. For Prober, everything old is new again, and every vintage lace cutout has a story of its own that needs to be told.
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“I wanted to embrace the textiles that have been forgotten and incorporate them into our modern generation—to honor the stories of these handcrafted textiles.” Her eponymous collection is sexy yet demure, historical yet modern, bold yet delicate—a remix of the classics that brings Pride and Prejudice to mind, but with a contemporary twist. Growing up in Tampa, Florida, with parents who were involved in the arts—her late father worked in the entertainment industry and her mother was a graduate gemologist—Prober was always creating; whether she was painting, sculpting, or playing music, she was always using her hands to construct something beautiful. However, when it comes to fashion, Prober attributes her love of design to her grandmother, who came to the United States from Morocco. “She was very into fashion. From her influence,” Prober says. “I’ve always been exposed to intricate Moroccan embroidery and handcrafting. I share my grandmother’s passion for older things.” Prober pursued her passion at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, where her two-dress senior thesis collection made from reclaimed lace won the Critics’ Choice Award in 2012. From there, her work with antique textiles spilled over, and she launched a full atelier collection that has received recognition worldwide. Just recently, she has dressed pop singer Hailee Steinfeld for Interview magazine and Tae, part of the country duo Maddie and Tae, for the CMA Awards. Her design philosophy is twofold. First, Prober seeks to honor the artisans of the past by incorporating old lace patterns from the eighteenth to twentieth centuries into her work. Secondly, she designs sustainably,
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making sure to use every single piece of fabric in all of her dresses. She employs a strict zero-waste policy by hand-draping the fabric onto a form, a technique that ensures every square inch is used. “I became discouraged with the amount of waste in the fashion world,” Prober explains. “We’re taught to use yards and yards of fabric and to go get new things for each season, and that creates a lot of waste. I wanted to embrace the textiles that have been forgotten and incorporate them into our modern generation—to honor the stories of these handcrafted textiles.” Finding textiles from centuries ago proved difficult at first, but as Prober’s work continues to gain traction, people are contacting her directly about pieces that they want her to use. “I’m always looking for them, but recently people have been reaching out to me who want to share their own heirlooms that they don’t know what to do with,” she says. “It’s a constant process; I always have to keep my eyes open.” Prober’s dresses, corsets, and collars have an irresistible quality that seems to attract people. Broadway singer Morgan James, cover girl for VIE’s 2014 Music Issue, forged a fast friendship with the designer after pairing up with her at an event for new artists where she was asked to sing and to wear some of Prober’s new designs. “Her designs are gorgeous,” James gushes. “I kept saying ‘I want that, I want that, and I want that!’ Mimi’s whole look is unique and dark and moody and eccentric, and I was immediately taken by it. We were mutual muses.” James, who has a new album in the works, also wore Prober’s designs in a collaborative photo shoot with up-and-coming photographer Akshay Bhoan. She hopes to use some of the photos in the art for her new record, which is set to drop in the spring of 2017. For James, no accessories were necessary while she was wearing Prober’s pieces. “Her pieces feel like another time, and they really tell a story,” says James. “Any time I’d add shoes or earrings, they got in the way. All you need is the dress. In a couple of the photos, I’m wearing a beaded collar, so it’s jewelry and a dress all in one.”
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Sartorial The beaded lace, exposed corsets, and overall mysterious air about the dresses mirrored James’s new music perfectly, which she says is edgier with more modern, electrical elements, in addition to her signature soulful sound. This is the first album where she has cowritten every song. As a friend, James describes Prober as humble and deserving of all the acclaim in the fashion world. “She is so true of heart and loyal. She slaves away and creates these incredible works of art, and she believes
in herself. You have to believe in yourself and what you are, and she does.” Prober says that her friendship and collaboration with James is something that makes her proud, especially since they work to support each other in their similar artistic career paths. “It’s been wonderful to grow our friendship over the past few years. Morgan is so talented and passionate. She has such a strong will and vision when it comes to her own art. I’m proud of her and her accomplishments!”
The beaded lace, exposed corsets, and overall mysterious air about the dresses mirrored James’s new music perfectly, which she says is edgier with more modern, electrical elements, in addition to her signature soulful sound. The two tend to look out for one another when it comes to possible career opportunities. Just last year, Morgan introduced Prober to Rocktopia, a concert series that blends classical music and classic rock, featuring songs from legends like Queen, Mozart, Journey, Beethoven, and Led Zeppelin. Prober did the wardrobe design and concept styling for the show, and all of the female vocalists wore dresses from her collection. The full concert will air on PBS on November 25, 2016, and there is already a second show scheduled for April of 2017 in Cleveland, Ohio. Prober is someone who knows what she wants. Her vision hasn’t changed since the conception of her senior thesis, and she’s confident in her work. “I’ve stayed true to my aesthetic and my philosophy and made it into a brand that has been recognized,” she says. “I’m very grateful for the support from the industry and how they fully understand and embrace my vision.” Recently, the designer has launched a luxury ready-to-wear collection as well as a fine jewelry collection at an upscale retailer, IF, in New York City’s SoHo district. The jewelry collection, called Metamorphosed Art, is made out of reclaimed sterling silver, adhering to Prober’s sustainability pledge.
吀䠀䔀刀䔀 䄀刀䔀 ㈀Ⰰ㘀㠀 圀䄀夀匀 吀伀 䌀唀匀吀伀䴀 䈀唀䤀䰀䐀 吀䠀䤀匀 䄀䌀䌀䔀一吀 䌀䠀䄀䤀刀⸀ 䄀䰀䰀 伀䘀 吀䠀䔀䴀 䄀刀䔀 䘀䄀匀吀⸀
吀䠀䔀刀䔀 䄀刀䔀 㠀Ⰰ 㐀 圀䄀夀匀 吀伀 䌀唀匀吀伀䴀 䈀唀䤀䰀䐀 吀䠀䤀匀 䌀伀䴀䘀伀刀吀 匀䰀䔀䔀倀䔀刀글⸀ 䄀䰀䰀 伀䘀 吀䠀䔀䴀 䄀刀䔀 䘀䄀匀吀⸀
䌀甀猀琀漀洀 氀甀砀甀爀礀 琀漀 礀漀甀爀 栀漀洀攀 椀渀 愀戀漀甀琀 ㌀ 搀愀礀猀⸀ 䔀砀瀀攀爀琀氀礀 挀爀愀昀琀攀搀 椀渀 䐀愀氀氀愀猀Ⰰ 吀攀砀愀猀⸀
As regards her overall journey, Prober says it’s important to keep moving forward. “You get little hints and signs that you’re moving in the right direction, and it’s not easy or glamorous all the time, but it’s part of who you are,” she says. “It’s important to share that with the world.”
W W W. M I MI P R OBE R .C OM
Designer Mimi Prober Photo by Vlasta Pilot
㈀㜀 洀攀爀爀爀搀 䌀漀爀猀琀 爀爀爀眀爀眀 眀椀爀爀洀爀爀 䈀攀爀挀栀 㠀㔀 ⸀ ㈀㘀㤀⸀㘀㤀㤀
椀搀洀椀搀攀猀椀椀渀⸀挀漀洀
Voyager
Voyager
SEE THE WORLD.
This special edition of VIE’s Voyager section brings a treat from the Emerald Isle, with stories from the 2016 issue of Connemara Life magazine! From the beauty and culture of the region of Connemara to its customs and events along the Atlantic coast, our sister publication truly provides an inside look at western Ireland.
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ODE TO
CONNEMARA BY LISA BURWELL
Oh, how I love Connemara A haunting beauty abides along her shores. I thought it was my ancestral connections I thought it was living here with my grandmother one summer as a teenager I thought it was how safe and peaceful the Twelve Bens made me feel as they give me refuge And I thought it was because my mother had lived here in her youth and loved her so, that I now love her so. Once she enchants you there is no getting free. Space and breath abide here. Oh, Connemara, how I love you so. Photo by Romona Robbins
Now that I have laid my soul bare to you, I am so proud and honored to publish the second annual edition of Connemara Life magazine and hope you too fall in love with Connemara—if you haven’t already. Celebrating this ethereal place and telling its stories on these pages makes my heart sing with happiness. Our Florida-based branding and publishing company, The Idea Boutique, opened a satellite office on Bridge Street in Clifden, County Galway, two years ago, with Connemara native Sharon Duane at the helm as director. Sharon has done a fantastic job as our brand ambassador and as liaison between our countries, and I’m forever grateful. As publishers and owners of VIE, we are honored to weave stories from Connemara Life into the pages of this issue. VIE is found in boutique bookshops, newsagents, and airports across the US, including John F. Kennedy International (New York), Boston Logan International, O’Hare International and Midway International (Chicago), Philadelphia International, Baltimore/Washington International, William P. Hobby (Houston), Memphis International, Nashville International, Orlando International, and Hartsfield– Jackson Atlanta International, as well as some Florida regional airports. Connemara Life is also being distributed in Shannon, Cork, and Dublin airports, in the Sunday Business Post, in Topaz service stations, Easons bookstores, and in other bookshops, newsagents, and other businesses throughout Connemara. You will find the magazine in the guest rooms of such distinguished locations as Rosleague Manor, Clifden Station House Hotel, Renvyle House Hotel, Ballynahinch Castle, and select bed-and-breakfasts.
It is also distributed to select libraries and Irish cultural centers in France. I’ve been a long-time admirer of American fashion designer Christian Siriano, whom we asked to join the Connemara Life creative crew for this issue. His couture gowns adorned Faye Dinsmore and Clara McSweeney, stunning models from Andrea Roche Model Agency, for our cover photo shoot and story at the magical Ballynahinch Castle. This magical place called for a grand-scale photo shoot, and I’d like to give praise and thanks to everyone involved. Read all about it in ‘An Enchantment: Ballynahinch Castle and Christian Siriano Fashions Inspire the Feminine Hunter’, as seen through the watchful and introspective eyes of our managing editor, Jordan Staggs. Photographer Alex Hutchinson is one of the absolute best in the business and he captured the magic of the day beautifully through his lens! Special acknowledgements go to Christian Siriano and Brad Walsh for joining us, and to Frank Fahey from Spirit of Ireland Executive Travel for being such a strong supporter and partner with us on this photo shoot. (Stay tuned on our Connemara Life Facebook page for more details about a giveaway for an all-expensepaid trip for two to Ireland in the near future, as we continue our corporate partnership with Spirit of Ireland and between our two countries!) As it showcases one of the most beautiful places on earth, I hope Connemara Life is able to give a glimpse of her beauty and widely entice you to visit her shores. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 109
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Voyager
A view of the quaint town of Clifden in County Galway at sunrise, as seen from the nearby scenic Sky Road
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Clifden
A Vibrant, Resourceful, and Creative Community By Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill Photography by Mark Furniss
In May 2012, Clifden marked the bicentenary of its founding with a week-long festival of talks, heritage walks, concerts, and street entertainment as well as a traditional boat regatta. The main focus of the celebrations was to honour the town’s founder, John D’Arcy, and to pay tribute to those who had inhabited this place before us.
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C
lifden is distinctive because, from the start, it was a created community that was brought together by John D’Arcy, who established the town in 1812 to increase the income of his remote seventeen-thousand-acre Connemara estate and to raise the living standards of his tenants there. Establishing a town in Connemara in the early nineteenth century was a brave step by a young man; D’Arcy was only twenty-seven years of age. At the time, Connemara was an isolated, underdeveloped wilderness. A majority of its population lived along the coast, and almost all communication with other parts of Ireland and the world was by sea. Just one road ran through the interior, and it was poorly surfaced, frequently flooded in wintertime, and totally unsuitable for a wheeled vehicle. The rest of the district was only accessible on foot or by horseback over well-worn paths that had been in use for centuries. In addition, Connemara had a lawless reputation and was renowned for illicit distilling (poitín making) and smuggling, making it all the more difficult for D’Arcy to attract legitimate business to his new town.
The Clifden we recognise today took shape in the 1820s thanks to significant improvements in the quantity and quality of the houses being built; the number of dwellings rose from 46 in 1821 to 290 just a decade later.
Clifden founder John D’Arcy Photo courtesy of Adrian Lead
The D’Arcy estate ran along the coast from Streamstown Bay to Ardbear Bay and was bordered on the east by the Ballynahinch estate, property of the Martin family. The D’Arcy family had held the Connemara lands for over 150 years, along with other estates in the east of the county. John D’Arcy, however, was the first of the family to take up residence in Connemara; he built Clifden Castle on the Sky Road and moved there with his young family following the death of his wife, Frances, in 1815. He remarried in 1820 and had fourteen children total.
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Although founded in 1812, the town of Clifden took many years to develop, and the project might well have failed were it not for D’Arcy’s energy, singlemindedness, and determination. D’Arcy succeeded in attracting people to this inhospitable district by offering long leases at low rents. However, because of the region’s many disadvantages, it required an exceptional pioneering spirit to choose to live here. The early citizens of Clifden came from all parts of Ireland, and this diverse community established itself under D’Arcy’s management. It was D’Arcy’s proud boast that, although the people of the town were of ‘different religions and from different parts of the Kingdom’, they lived in harmony. The Clifden we recognise today took shape in the 1820s thanks to significant improvements in the quantity and quality of the houses being built; the number of dwellings rose from 46 in 1821 to 290 just a decade later. This is attributed to the arrival of a number of skilled craftsmen who were employed in public works, chiefly road and pier construction, that were then under way in the district. The houses flanked broad streets and were a mixture of private residences and ground-floor shops with living quarters above. To accommodate the growing population, Protestant and Roman Catholic churches and schools were erected, and a brewery, a distillery, and a mill were established on the banks of the Owenglin River, next to the waterfall. For the administration of justice, a police barracks, a courthouse, and a jail were also added. Following the establishment of the Poor Law relief system in the 1830s, the town became the centre for administering relief to the Clifden Union, which covered 191,426 acres and had a population of 33,465 in 1841. This covered most of the area we refer to as Connemara today. The Union workhouse, a four-storey building on the Galway Road with accommodations for three hundred destitute poor, was in use from 1847 to 1921. During the Great Famine of the late 1840s, when starvation, sickness, and death were everywhere to be found, the Union workhouse building was extended to house almost a thousand, and auxiliary workhouses
and fever hospitals were established throughout the Clifden Union. The highest number of workhouse inhabitants recorded was in February 1850, when the combined buildings held 1,963 people. Those denied entry to the workhouse filled the streets of Clifden in search of charity or outdoor relief. They were frequently forced to exchange a portion of their free rations for space in a crowded tenement. The overcrowded tenements, jail, and workhouse became breeding grounds for cholera and fever, resulting in many deaths. Few families were exempt from the effects of the famine.
Main Street, Clifden, by Robert French. Published between 1865–1914, courtesy of the Lawrence Collection, National Library Ireland
John D’Arcy died in 1839, and the town and estate were passed to his son Hyacinth. The estate was, however, greatly in debt, and the effects of the famine left Hyacinth bankrupt. As a result, the D’Arcy estate and the town were sold in 1850 to the Eyre family of Bath, England, for a mere £4,000. Various
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Voyager These emigrants, in turn, sent home money to pay the passage for family members they left behind, starting a chain migration that continued for decades. The descendants of many of these emigrants are found among Connemara’s summer visitors today, searching for family graves and homesteads, and frequently making contact with long-lost relatives. The opening of a rail link between Galway and Clifden in 1895 aided the development of agriculture and fisheries in the region, and helped to establish the tourism industry for which Connemara is now famous. The rail line, however, was never profitable and was closed in 1935.
Today, Clifden’s Main Street boasts colourful shops, galleries, pubs, cafes, and more.
The opening of a rail link between Galway and Clifden in 1895 aided the development of agriculture and fisheries in the region, and helped to establish the tourism industry for which Connemara is now famous.
members of the family lived at Clifden Castle until the 1920s. The influence of the Eyres on the affairs of the town would, however, never be more than marginal when compared with the impact of John D’Arcy. The years following the Great Famine saw the town struggle to survive commercially; periodic crop failures frequently left the people in debt to shopkeepers, and the very poor had to seek temporary relief at the workhouse. Many small farmers saw emigration as their only option. Emigration schemes set up by Father James Nugent (a Catholic priest from Liverpool) and James H. Tuke (a Quaker from York) aided over 3,500 men, women, and children with exchanging their harsh existence in Connemara for the chance of a better life in North America in the early 1880s. 116 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
The local economy was further boosted with the 1907 opening of the Marconi wireless station south-west of Clifden at Derrygimlagh. The station received its first commercial wireless message from its sister station in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, on 17 October that year. The Marconi Company employed a large, well-paid staff of operators, engineers, and maintenance men, all of whom lived on or near the station and were generous in their patronage of local businesses. The station also offered casual work to over two hundred local men, providing them with sufficient earnings to make working their farms a viable alternative to emigration. The station closed in 1922 after sustaining damage in an attack by Republican forces during the Civil War. The arrival of the first non-stop transatlantic flight at the Marconi station on 15 June 1919 was announced in banner headlines around the world. Pilot Captain John Alcock and navigator Lieutenant Arthur Whitten Brown had made the flight from Saint John’s, Newfoundland, to Derrygimlagh in sixteen hours and twenty-eight minutes, writing their names, and that of the town, in the annals of aviation history. It is thought that 150 men from Clifden enlisted in the British forces during the Great War, and there were many more from the wider Connemara area. Some lost their lives at the front, but most returned to play their part in the formation of the Irish state, either as civilians or as soldiers. The turbulent years of the War of Independence and the Civil War from 1919 to 1923 brought loss of life, personal tragedy, and frequent disruptions
to the civic life of the Clifden community. During the War of Independence, raids by the regular police and the emergency special force of Black and Tans on the homes of republican supporters in 1920 escalated to terror in March 1921, when three men—two RIC and one civilian—were killed on the streets of the town and the Black and Tans set fourteen houses on fire. Connemara witnessed a good deal of fighting in the Civil War of 1922–1923. Control of Clifden shifted between the opposing sides three times in the space of four months from August to December 1922, and a ten-hour battle was fought in the streets on Sunday, 29 October. The soldiers of the Free State eventually retook and held the town on 16 December 1922. Political stability was soon re-established. Fishing and sailing boats await their next voyage into Clifden Harbour, just a short walk from town
Emigration continued to be a central element in the patterns of life in the decades following the establishment of the Irish Free State in 1922. However,
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Voyager the vigour and resolve to create a vibrant, resourceful, and creative community have been the recurring theme in the history of the town. That spirit has enabled Clifden to prosper and continue to attract new people endowed with the energy, talent, and determination to enhance the local community.
Take a stroll through the town’s vibrant market each Friday to pick up fresh flowers and other local goods. You may even hear some music on the street!
Today, Clifden is an example of how priceless human capital—ambition, human effort, and entrepreneurship—has been developed to match the unrivalled beauty of its physical setting. This compelling combination has enabled Clifden to charm visitors and energise the local population to create a lively economy; a rich communal culture of societies, festivals, and activities; and a firm sense of local pride and responsibility.
Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill is an author and historian living in Connemara. www.ConnemaraGirlPublications.com
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T H E P A S T A N D F U T U R E O F T U L LY C R O S S V I L L A G E By Kevin Heanue
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The picturesque village of Tullycross in Renvyle, Connemara, is gaining a reputation as the destination of choice for US colleges to base their Ireland study abroad programmes, especially if they want to offer students a community-engaged experience. By the end of 2017, students and faculty from eight US colleges in six different states will come to Tullycross for periods ranging from one week to a full semester to study Irish history, literature, and culture; take up internships with local organisations; engage in community-focused research and scholarship with Irish academics and community members; get involved in service-learning activities; and have a deep cultural immersion experience within a supportive rural community. They do this with the help of a local development organisation named Connemara West. But how did this all begin?
Left: Photo courtesy of Marine Maritime Academy Right: Photo courtesy of New England College
In 1973, Aquinas College in Grand Rapids, Michigan, started its Ireland study abroad programme in Tullycross by bringing students and two faculty members to the village for two semesters. They stayed—and students and faculty continue to stay each year for a spring semester—in the nine Renvyle thatched cottages owned by Connemara West, a non-profit, locally
owned and managed development organisation based in Letterfrack village, five kilometres away from Tullycross. Established in 1971 and owned by five hundred local shareholders, Connemara West is managed by a volunteer board of nine local directors and employs twenty-eight people. Its mission is to create a sustainable economic, social, and cultural future for north-west Connemara by working with private and public Irish and international organisations to develop innovative solutions to local employment, education, communication, and social service provision challenges. Over the past forty-three years, the annual visit from Aquinas College has had an immense social and cultural impact on the Tullycross community, including the establishment of many deep and lasting friendships, several marriages, wideranging personnel exchanges across the Atlantic, and even financial support from Aquinas College for a member of the Renvyle community to study full-time in the United States. Also, as Aquinas College students arrive in Tullycross each January to begin their four-month stay, they bring a welcome boost of young people into a community that has, over the past seven to eight years, witnessed the emigration of a lot of its own young people due to economic recession. The students and faculty live, shop, and socialise in the locality for the duration of their stay. This helps sustain employment in local businesses and services. The V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 121
Connemara West’s support of study abroad programmes provides a safe, welcoming cultural immersion experience to the students and faculty of these colleges, drawing on four decades of experience in doing so. scale of what has happened is staggering. Aquinas College has so far probably brought more than a thousand students and faculty to Tullycross, not to mention the family and friends who also visit.
Above: Photo courtesy of Aquinas College Right: Photo courtesy of Lourdes University
These positive impacts brought forth Connemara West’s education-led local development strategy in the late 2000s. It seeks to make Tullycross and the Renvyle Peninsula the destination of choice for US colleges wishing to provide their students with high-impact educational practices in an Irish rural environment and, in turn, be an economic, social, and cultural stimulus for the Renvyle community. In partnership with Aquinas College, the company began to discuss how other US colleges could be brought to Tullycross. In due course, these discussions led to the signing of a memorandum of understanding between the two organisations. Creating a residential
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education centre for research, education, and community engagement in Tullycross was one goal of that agreement. That goal is now becoming a reality. Aquinas College provided Connemara West with introductions to key personnel at other US colleges who might be interested in starting study abroad programmes in Ireland. News about the opportunity to come to Tullycross also spread among US colleges by word of mouth, leading some to contact Connemara West. In 2008, Maine Maritime College, based in Castine, Maine, brought its first group of students to the village. Lourdes University in Sylvania, Ohio, and Kirkwood Community College of Iowa City, Iowa, also began programmes with Tullycross in 2013. In 2016, Saint Louis University of Saint Louis, Missouri; Grand Valley State University of Grand Rapids, Michigan; and New Hampshire Technical Institute of Concord, New Hampshire, have brought or will bring students on their inaugural visits. New England College of Henniker, New Hampshire, plans to begin its programme in 2017. The students from these colleges span a variety of disciplines, ethnic backgrounds, and ages, ensuring a diverse cultural experience for the residents of Tullycross also. What is it about Tullycross that US colleges find attractive as a location for their study abroad programmes? The small village’s resident population doesn’t much exceed thirty people, and its limits contain a church, a village hall, a credit union, two bars, a hotel, and a diner. Connemara West’s support of study abroad programmes provides a safe, welcoming cultural immersion experience to the students and faculty of these colleges, drawing on four decades of experience in doing so. The local community in Tullycross village makes the experience worthwhile. In addition, the locality has a high density of collaborating organisations that allow Connemara
Voyager West to facilitate internships, research, and service learning opportunities for the US colleges and therefore can help these colleges deliver high-impact education practices to their students in a uniquely rural yet international context, which is highly desirable. Of course, it helps that Tullycross is situated in a stunningly beautiful part of Connemara, close to the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara West has obtained planning permission for a major refurbishment and renovation of the nine thatched cottages in Tullycross where the students and faculty live during their visits. When renovated, the cottages will accommodate forty students and professors. In addition, a planned new-build education centre in the village will contain a fifty-seat auditorium, a Wi-Fi-enabled learning hub/ library, group study/breakout rooms, video conferencing facilities, a conference room, and a coffee dock. In addition to being a teaching base for the study abroad programmes for the US colleges already recruited, the education centre will have many other functions: a dissertation completion retreat for US graduate students; a US college faculty professional development centre; a lead venue for a summer programme on resilience and sustainability; a venue for online delivery and certification of courses from US colleges to Irish communities; an administrative and promotional centre for fellowships for Irish residents to the US colleges that use the centre; a centre for comparative research on rural community leadership and engagement; and a
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Voyager location for community meeting rooms, training, and events. A fundraising campaign to finance these developments has begun in both the US and Ireland.
Photo courtesy of New Hampshire Technical Institute
What is happening in Tullycross has huge potential to act as a positive force for change into the future. Other rural communities throughout Ireland can learn lessons from the Tullycross experience and seek to forge their own links with US colleges. The opportunity is underpinned by a large market. In 2013, approximately 289,000 US students studied abroad, with 53 per cent coming to Europe but only 2.8 per cent studying in Ireland. Both US colleges and Irish communities could explore these possibilities by attending the Interchanges microconference held in Renvyle House Hotel, Connemara, in mid June each year. The aim of Interchanges is to provide a forum where intending or existing independent US–Ireland study abroad programme directors and other faculty and students can network with each other and with Irish collaborative partners on location in rural Ireland.
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Voyager
a story of
By Ciara Young
Photography courtesy of Killary Adventure Co.
Nestled in the foothills of the Maumturk Mountains and overlooking Killary Fjord sits the family-run Killary Adventure Company. In 2016, it celebrated over thirty-five years of bringing the spirit of adventure to those who cross its threshold. he company has grown from humble beginnings in a farm shed not ten kilometres from its current location to now offering not only adventure activities for all ages but also organising guided and self-guided walking and cycling tours in the area with its Connemara Adventure Tours, as well as producing adventure events and competitions through its Killary Gaelforce programme, which had a calendar of eleven events in 2016.
Lodge and its services were ideal for guests to relax amid the stunning setting or venture forth on one of the many locally available activities. Killary Lodge operated as a thriving business until 2006, when it was sold to another company. The property now operates as a youth hostel.
Killary Adventure Company was the brainchild of Jamie and Mary Young, who met while working at an outdoor centre in rural Scotland. They travelled extensively before visiting Ireland. Jamie participated in the 1976 single-handed sailing race to America, and then the Youngs spent their honeymoon sailing to America in a twenty-six-foot boat designed for single-handed sailing. In 1979, they once again took to the water, spending a year working on the famous eighty-foot oceanracing yacht Ondine.
The new millennium came and with it some dynamic changes, including a sad goodbye to Little Killary Adventure Centre, which had served Connemara well for twenty years, and a big welcome to Killary Adventure Company, which oversees all the adventure businesses. A brand-new budget accommodation centre, renamed Killary Adventure Centre, was also opened for business. Nestled in the hills, with a spectacular view over Killary Harbour and Inishturk Island, it is surrounded by the most remarkable scenery.
The Youngs made the decision to set up an adventure centre, and in 1979, they also came to Ireland to try and find a location that would suit their needs. They settled for some run-down farm sheds on the banks of Killary Harbour. 1981–Present Little Killary Adventure Centre opened its doors in 1981, growing to become a market leader in the field of adventure holidays. The Youngs’ children—Ciara, Shane, and Kim— were all born in Killary, and growing up in Connemara was an adventure for them all. Connemara Adventure Tours (then Killary Tours) was also created in the 1980s and filled a need for inbound Irish adventure tours, both for the hardy and the seekers of ‘soft’ adventure. The early 1990s saw the completion of extensive renovations at Killary Lodge, a country house that dates back to 1830. Situated on thirty acres of land with two beaches and a pier, Killary
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Voyager In addition to expanding his business, Jamie has found time for other challenges over the years. He led the first Irish Sea Kayak Expedition to circumnavigate Cape Horn in South America in 1989, and he was a team member of the South Aris expedition in 1997, which re-enacted Ernest Shackleton’s famous adventure in the Antarctic. In 2003, Jamie and one other attempted to traverse from the South Pole to Patriot Hills by kite buggy, and in 2012, he helped to organise and then participated in the Round Rockall Sailing Race from the Port of Galway to Rockall islet in the North Atlantic and back. He sailed the Killary Flyer single-handedly and did his region proud once more. On 14 June 2013, with a crew of nine others that included his son, Shane, and several kayakers, climbers, and filmmakers, Jamie set off on another highly successful expedition to Greenland for approximately ten weeks. With two of the Youngs’ three children now working within Killary Adventure Company, its journey from 1981 to today has been an exciting one. The business has survived three recessions, has innovated
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Killary Adventure Company’s goal is to make outdoor adventure accessible to all and to encourage everyone to push the boundaries of his or her experience in western Ireland. and diversified into other sectors of the adventure market, and is leading the charge in Ireland with its strong emphasis on green energy and its impact on the surrounding environment in the rural community. The Young family members not only work in the adventure industry but also live and breathe adventure—it’s in their DNA! Killary Adventure Company Located in the heart of Connemara, the main base of the adventure company sits overlooking the Killary Fjord, which is one of the Wild Atlantic Way’s signature points. Killary Adventure Company’s goal is to make outdoor adventure accessible to all and to encourage everyone to push the boundaries of his or her experience in western Ireland. With both day activities and accommodations available, adventurers can come for the morning or stay for the week. Killary Adventure Company offers a selection of over twenty adventure activities on water and land. Kayak along the shores of the fjord and take in the history
of the Great Famine that is visible there. Or take a fjord discovery trip on our seven-and-a-half-metre speedboat and visit the mussel farms that populate the sheltered waters, stopping by a working mussel boat to learn how the mussels are grown—and even pick some for lunch! Then it’s on to the Killary sheep farm to meet Tom, who will show visitors how to herd sheep with sheepdogs, cut fresh turf from the land, and maybe even feed a lamb. The trip ends with a steaming pot of Killary mussels at the adventure company’s Roof Top Café. Climbing, abseiling, and the Giant Swing on the purpose-built tower with a new Burma Bridge and SkyFall activity are some of Killary Adventure Company’s newest attractions. Connemara Adventure Tours Connemara Adventure Tours has been welcoming visitors for over thirty years with great pride and delight. There is no corner of this enchanting part of western Ireland that the tour guides do not know. Activities include guided and self-guided walking
Step into Style Siyu Isabel De Pedro Sarah Pacini Eva Kayan Annette Gortz Amazing Woman Lilith
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Voyager Environmental Impact Killary Adventure Company was founded with strong environmental desires and goals. This green policy has been running through the business since its inception, although it has increased over recent years as time and technology have allowed the business to move it forward. The company installed a biomass burner to heat the Killary Adventure Centre with wood rather than gas or oil. This wood is sourced from a local forest less than five kilometres away. The centre also uses a drying room (for wet clothes, shoes, et cetera) to run off excess heat from the biomass boiler. There is a wind turbine on-site, which produces some of the electricity used within the centre. The company is currently seeking planning permission for a second one.
and cycling tours of Connemara. Connemara Adventure Tours offers personal service to take care of the details, which provides visitors the freedom to explore and discover. All levels of adventure in Connemara are available, from a gentle meandering cycle through sheltered valleys to a day spent summiting a rugged peak overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Guests are guaranteed the best of equipment, accommodations, practical support, and local knowledge that will ensure a smooth and hassle-free holiday. Bask in soft rain, green mists, and breathtaking views with friends and family, or enjoy time by yourself as you are immersed in culture, history, and tradition—but most of all, you will be welcomed with warmth and limitless hospitality.
In 2000, Killary installed a reed bed for the outflow from the sewage system in order to deal with the waste from its ecologically aware building; the reed bed uses natural stone faces and grass roofing to help it disappear into the landscape. A large effort has been made to separate recycling waste from general waste, resulting in a three-to-one ratio of recycling to general waste. A county council recycling centre is also located on the Killary Adventure Company premises. Plans to reduce energy usage across the company’s buildings are under way, including a recent installation of passive infrared (PIR) sensors to reduce electricity consumption; a reduction in energy usage by 40 per cent has been seen since installing the sensors. The company is in the process of replacing all bulbs and light fittings in the centre with more energy efficient LEDs. In 2015, Killary Adventure Company purchased an electric buggy (fondly known as the Postman Pat van) for moving between the property’s accommodations and activity sites. The company remains proud to serve Connemara visitors and locals while keeping the region’s natural beauty and environment intact. 130 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Killary Gaelforce Never a man to stand still and always with adventure in mind, Jamie developed the concept of the Gaelforce West Adventure Race in 2006. The race ran for the first time in August that year, in association with Fáilte Ireland. Since then, it has seen nearly twenty thousand competitors take to the Galway and Mayo hills to complete the sixty-five-kilometre course. Killary Gaelforce was established in 2009 and has grown to become the premier organiser of unsupported adventure challenges in Ireland. It offers iconic events, breathtaking scenery, and incredible personal journeys. The 2017 calendar includes plans afoot for several exciting events! Killary Gaelforce offers everything from a ten-kilometre trail run to a sixty-five-kilometre adventure race, an open-water swim, obstacle races, and even a cyclosportive and triathlon.
www.ConnemaraAdventureTours.com
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FOOD AND FAMILY IN WESTERN IRELAND Story and photography by
CLIODHNA PRENDERGAST
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Voyager
I grew up at the foot of a mountain on the shores of the Atlantic in a place called Cashel in Connemara. Although I was born in Dingle in County Kerry, I am a Connemara girl through and through. Shortly after my fifth birthday, my family bought a country house hotel by the sea in Connemara, and so we moved up the western coast to start our new life in County Galway. My parents worked hard at the hotel, a family business that demanded all their attention. As a result, during the busy season and the summer holidays, my siblings and I were left to entertain ourselves. To fill our days, we climbed the hills behind the hotel, rummaged along the seashore, and fished in the lakes and rivers for the then-abundant sea trout. For me, however, the day always started and ended in the heart of the hotel: the kitchen. I loved the energy there, the chatting and the madness of the race to be ready for dinner. After a couple of years, when I was about seven, a new cook joined us, and she was not willing to allow me in the kitchen if I was not being useful. So, I started my education; she taught me how to make ice cream for the guests. My father would always stop and chat with everyone in the dining room during dinner, and if he found that they were having ice cream for dessert, he would proudly announce ‘my seven-year-old daughter made that.’ He would also wheel me out before dinner to eat oysters with the guests; it was sort of his party trick, and I was willing! As my interest grew, another chef brought me out to pick nettles for a spring nettle soup, and just like that, my lifelong adventure in foraging began. I loved it. I thought that gathering and eating wild food was the coolest way to spend a day. When my daughter asked me the other day what my childhood was like, that’s what I thought of: picking wild mushrooms, peas from the garden (at that time, we had a big kitchen garden) and berries from the hedgerows. This was partially out of boredom due to living in the wild, rural west of Ireland. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 133
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F
oraging might have just remained an idle pastime, but living in the family hotel with chefs nearby led me to create something that tasted amazing, and that just pulled it all together and caused me to go for it full throttle.
I was determined not to follow in my parents’ footsteps by running the hotel because I figured it was far too much hard work. So, I went on to study arts at University College Cork (now National University of Ireland, Cork). I used to make tarts and sell them to cafes for pocket money, and I realized that I had much more interest in the tarts than I did in the arts. As a result, I left college and went to Dublin to take up a position as a pastry chef at Jacob’s Ladder Restaurant, which was owned by Adrian Roche, a chef who had spent many years working at my parents’ hotel. I continued working in restaurants and hotel kitchens, and after spending a season at Newport House in County Mayo, I decided to go to cookery school at Ballymaloe. I absolutely loved it; the focus on organic food and on supporting local farmers really struck a chord with me. It was such a comfortable fit with my own ethos and upbringing. Cookery school also gave me confidence in my skills and helped me appreciate how much I had learned. I saw with clarity the value of my upbringing and my background in food.
I have a deep-seated belief that children should be introduced to cooking at an early age. This is not just so that they can learn to cook (which is great) but more importantly, it gives them a confident and healthy outlook on life. When I graduated from Ballymaloe, I took the helm in the kitchen of the Delphi Lodge in Connemara, where I spent eleven glorious years as head chef with the lodge’s inspirational owner, Peter Mantle. I had completely free rein in the kitchen and the larder. Delphi is a salmon-fishing lodge, so wild salmon was brought into the kitchen very frequently; the woods were also covered in wild garlic and wild mushrooms. We had fresh fish from the coast, mussels from Killary Bay, woodcock shooting in the winter, free-range eggs … The lodge’s kitchen was just like the kitchen I had grown up in, but now I was the chef. It was a magical time for me, and I developed as a chef and found my own way. Just before going to Delphi, I had met my husband, Patrick, who was a big part of the reason I returned home to Connemara. Patrick manages Ballynahinch Castle Hotel and Estate, so I fell right back into the arms of the hotel business. I actually somewhat enjoy that life even though I’d spent years trying to scramble out of it. After our third child, Milo, was born, I realized that a full-time kitchen job (with all its late nights) was not an ideal way to raise my family, so I left Delphi. I wanted to continue working in some way while still being close to the children. I have a deep-seated belief, probably as a result of my own childhood, that children should be introduced to cooking at an early age. This is not just so that they can learn to cook (which is great) but more importantly, it gives them a confident and healthy outlook on life. They get a better appreciation of how the planet works and of the role that they have to play.
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I enjoy every second of these workshops; we take the participants foraging and often do some hands-on cookery with them before teaching the photography and food styling.
I started filming the online cookery programme Breaking Eggs with my children, Jake, Iseult, and Milo, as a way to encourage parents to involve their children in every aspect of food— growing, gathering, and cooking—from an early age. For the programme, we examine the sources of our food by going to a farm, visiting a cheese maker, picking mushrooms in the woods, fishing, going to markets, and so on. We then bring that food back to cook it in the kitchen of our family home. We have found such great pleasure in meeting all the food producers and listening to their passion-filled stories. The kids are pretty amazing, and they have a fantastic understanding of food and of the people who grow, gather, and produce it.
Over the past year and a half, I also started a workshop called Lens and Larder with my good friend Imen McDonnell (find her blog, Farmette, at Farmette.ie). Born out of our shared love of food and photography, Lens and Larder brings world-class photographers and food stylists to extraordinary places in Ireland to teach the arts of food photography and visual storytelling during three- and four-day workshops. This is an amalgamation of everything I love: food, photography, people, and creativity. I enjoy every second of these workshops; we take the participants foraging and often do some hands-on cookery with them before teaching the photography and food styling. Each course is unique because of the different locations, seasons, and instructors. We keep the numbers small so that we can offer one-on-one attention and learning, which also means that many new friendships are forged at the workshops as the participants spend time with people who share their passions.
RECIPES Connemara influences my cooking in ways that I’m not sure I can explain properly. The flavours from this place are what make me tick. Therefore, I’d like to share some recipes that reflect Connemara and its produce. The first is a dish made with mussels and clams, which can both be found all over our coast, where they are fresh and delicious. We often cook them using a little gas burner while on the beach because they taste even better there! For this recipe, I have used fresh wild garlic and an Irish chorizo made by Fingal Ferguson of Gubbeen in County Cork. If you cannot find wild garlic, you can use ordinary cloves of garlic and some nice, fresh flat-leaf parsley.
For the second dish, I have used gorse, which is a very prickly, yellow-flowering shrub; it grows in great profusion around Connemara and can be found all over the roadsides and hills. You need heavy-duty gardening gloves to pick it, but the amazing fresh flavour, which is like green coconut, is worth it. It is also known as broom or furze, and it may grow in an area near you; if not, you can substitute coconut milk for cow’s milk in this recipe to achieve a similar flavour. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 135
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RECIPES
MUSSELS AND CLAMS
with Wild Garlic and Irish Chorizo
Serves 2 to 4
Ingredients » 2 pounds (1 kilogram) of mussels, cleaned and debearded » 2 pounds (1 kilogram) of clams, cleansed of sand » 1 small onion, chopped finely » 1 large handful of wild garlic, roughly chopped (or 2 cloves of garlic, chopped, and a handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped) » 1 cup (250 millilitres) white wine
Turn the heat up and add the mussels, clams, and white wine; stir. Add the wild garlic and chorizo and stir, making sure all the mussels and clams get tossed around by moving the ones on the bottom to the top. Cover the pot for 1 minute to allow the mussels and clams to steam, and then mix thoroughly (if using fresh parsley instead of wild garlic, add it now). Cover the pot again. It should take 5 more minutes for most of the shellfish to open.
» 1 cup (60 grams) chorizo, sliced » Olive or vegetable oil Put a large pot on a medium heat with a little oil and add the onion to soften (if using regular garlic, add it now as well).
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Remove the pot from the heat. At this point, if any rogue mussels or clams are unopened, discard them. Serve immediately with some brown bread to mop up the delicious juice.
Gorse and Yoghurt
PANNA COTTA
Makes 6
Ingredients » 2 large handfuls gorse petals » 1 cup full-fat milk » 1 cup cream » 2 1/2 cups natural yoghurt » 1/2 cup caster sugar » 3 teaspoons powdered gelatine » 4 tablespoons cold water
gelatine has melted and is clear. (You can also do this in the microwave on low-power mode.) Grease six 6-ounce dariole moulds or ramekins liberally with sunflower oil and sprinkle 3 or 4 gorse petals at the bottom of each mould. Strain the milk mixture into a bowl, gently squeezing the milk from the gorse petals through the sieve; discard the petals. Take a small amount of milk (about two tablespoons) and mix it into the clear gelatine. Then add that gelatine mix back into the large bowl of milk and whisk thoroughly.
Put the milk and cream in a pot with the sugar and bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
Now add the natural yoghurt and whisk until it is combined and smooth.
Remove the pot from the heat and add the gorse petals, saving a few for decorating later.
Divide the mixture between the six moulds and refrigerate for 3–4 hours until set.
Stir the petals into the milk and set aside to cool completely.
To serve, turn the mould upside down and run it under warm water for a few seconds; then place the mould upside down on a plate. It may need a little shake, but the panna cotta will slide out easily as you lift the mould. Scatter a few fresh gorse petals on top and on the plate.
While the milk mixture cools, in a heatproof bowl, mix the gelatine with the cold water. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water until the
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A T R A D I T I O N O F A R T A N D E D U C AT I O N
Clifden Arts Festival By Breandan O’Scanaill Photography courtesy of Clifden Arts Festival
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The Clifden Arts Festival will shortly be celebrating its fortieth birthday, and it has been getting bigger and better each year. The 2016 festival, which ran from 15 to 25 September, shaped up to be another cracking year! As the scope of the festival has expanded over the years, so has its attendance and value to the local economy. More and more visitors from around Ireland and abroad return each year and have the chance to speak with the artists and others involved in the events. The relatively small and intimate setting is one of the special features of the Clifden Arts Festival, and although it has grown over the decades, the ethos and guiding principles behind it have remained the same. Along with good-quality art, music, theatre, comedy, and literature in a relaxed setting, it is the involvement of the local schools which helps define the festival. The participation of dozens of local volunteers and the dedication of the Clifden Arts Festival committee and its director, Brendan Flynn, ensure that quality always takes centre stage. As the 2016 Clifden Arts Festival has fairly recently come and gone, it seems a good time to step back and look at its origins and the changes over the years.
The festival is spread throughout town at a variety of venues, which range from the intimate Station House Theatre, the acoustically brilliant Christ Church, and the atmospheric Saint Joseph’s Church, to the functional and ideal venues of the Clifden Town Hall and the West Connemara Leisure Centre. Pubs and cafes add to this mix, and music can be heard on the street throughout the week. Visitors may meet the poets and writers during the festival, and one can drop into a shop, pub, or even the bookies and find great literature. The Clifden Library also acts as a host for exhibitions, readings, and concerts. One of the biggest successes over the festival’s thirty-nine years has been the development of the Arts Trail, which uses shop windows as exhibition spaces for paintings, photographs, and sculpture, transforming the whole town into an art gallery. It is lovely to watch people going from window to window and commenting on the works on display. On top of that, galleries pop up in shops, old buildings, and hotels. You can find art in the most surprising places! As the Clifden Arts Festival has grown, bodies such as the Arts Council and the Irish Museum of Modern Art have allowed art exhibitions to travel to it, and the event has also been selected by corporate and private collectors as an ideal choice to show their collections. This has ensured that top-notch works of art are available to a wider audience in the far west of Ireland. The emphasis on each year’s poster and programme has also increased over the years. The posters are works of art in themselves and attract
It was in 1977 that Flynn proposed the idea of encouraging the arts in the newly opened Clifden Community School. He has always had a passion for incorporating the arts in the school curriculum, and with the support of the principal and teachers, the first Arts Week took place with a number of readings, lectures, and workshops for the school’s students. The programme for this week fitted onto one page. Right from the start, a great relationship grew between the school and a host of wonderful artists and writers, such as John Behan, Seamus Heaney, Christy Moore, and President Michael D. Higgins, to name but a few. As the Arts Week began to grow, the wider Clifden community became involved in the school-based festival, and the event moved into the town and surroundings. It was at this stage that the true Clifden Arts Festival was born. From these humble beginnings, a great educational and cultural event developed, and Clifden Arts Festival’s local, national, and international reputation for diversity and quality has grown year on year.
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The whole event is a bit like Rio meets Clifden— lights, music, flares, colourful floats, kids and adults in crazy costumes, and, above them all, the talented Fidget Feet dangling from a crane and performing ballet in the air. a lot of attention from locals and visitors alike. The posters and programmes are eagerly awaited each year, and one of the joys of getting your hands on the programme is marking off all the things you would like to attend over the ten-day event. There is normally a clash of interests, but whatever you choose to see, you are sure to enjoy it. Sometimes those exhibits or events you were not sure about turn out to be the most interesting! The educational aspect of the Clifden Arts Festival has always been central, originating with the Clifden Community School and then the Scoil Mhuire National School coming on board. Now fourteen schools from the area take part in various aspects of the event, including hosting visiting poets, musicians, or theatre troupes. Other activities include lantern making, stilt walking, drumming, and dance workshops, all in preparation for an amazing parade held on the final Saturday evening. The Grand Parade takes place around the town of Clifden
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and is brilliantly choreographed by LUXe Processional Spectacle and Landscape Theatre and the wonderful Fidget Feet Aerial Dance Theatre. Both groups arrive in Connemara in advance of the festival and begin training the students for various roles they will play in the parade. They have built up a body of students who take part year and after year. Those who have finished school often return to volunteer with the many men and women from the area who help push, pull, or carry various parts of the parade. The whole event is a bit like Rio meets Clifden—lights, music, flares, colourful floats, kids and adults in crazy costumes, and, above them all, the talented Fidget Feet dangling from a crane and performing ballet in the air. Then, just as you think the spectacle has ended, the skies are lit up with a fireworks display that will take your breath away. The festival’s energy is infectious; it gets into your blood and always becomes the talk of the town. Here’s to this year’s festival: to all the committee working behind the scenes, the marvellous funders who are often overlooked, the artists, and the performers. But most of all, here’s to the people of Clifden and Connemara, who have taken the tradition of this event to heart and who are the true ambassadors for the Clifden Arts Festival.
www.ClifdenArtsFestival.ie
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CLIFDEN STATION HOUSE Connemara clifdenstationhouse.com Clifden, Connemara, Co. Galway, Ireland call +353 (0)95 21699
CLIFDEN STATION HOUSE Connemara
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TO THE END OF THE LINE THE ROADS AND RAILS TO CONNEMARA
The Clifden to Galway Railway Line 1895–1935 By PK Joyce
The original trail route from Clifden to Galway meanders through some of the most spectacular scenery western Ireland has to offer, but the polarising isolation of Connemara’s many lakes, rivers, and mountain ranges spurred the need to build the original railway track in 1891. With an ever-growing population, the need for better transport infrastructure to service the region became a priority. In 1885 a public meeting in Galway town agreed that a railway would have a major impact on the economy and well-being of Connemara’s inhabitants. The build itself would guarantee a substantial jobs windfall
for the duration of construction, and the export potential from the area’s fisheries would have major economic benefits for impoverished coastal fishermen. Local agricultural and livestock production and trade could be greatly enhanced with access to larger markets. A number of initiatives to build a rail line fell through before the Midland Great Western Railway (MGWR) won the contract to build and run the service in 1889. Construction of the line began in early 1891 and eventually saw a nearly seventy-eightkilometre track laid between Galway and Clifden through the villages of Moycullen, Ross, Oughterard, Maam Cross, Recess, and Ballynahinch. The first official train journey took place on 1 January 1895 when specially invited guests and dignitaries took the short journey between Galway and
IN 1885 A PUBLIC MEETING IN GALWAY TOWN AGREED THAT A RAILWAY WOULD HAVE A MAJOR IMPACT ON THE ECONOMY AND WELLBEING OF CONNEMARA’S INHABITANTS. Oughterard. Clifden first saw the arrival of a train from Galway on 1 July 1895. However, in the following decades—despite major investment by the MGWR— the railway failed to become profitable. The company attempted to concentrate on tourism as a major source of income for the line, but a change in governing policy and resulting financial loss forced the Clifden Station to close on 27 April 1935 after the last train departed. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 145
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Clifden Station House By Treena and John Sweeney
‘Closed to steam in 1935 … Opened to discerning guests in 1998!’ With the closure of the rail line in 1935, public road transport took over the vital role of delivering Connemara’s goods and services. The land through which the line passed was repurposed by locals for farming, while the steel tracks were lifted and sold as scrap metal. Rumour has it that the steel was used in the making of munitions used in World War II. The closing of the railway left the old station buildings to be repurposed, and they are now home to some of Clifden’s most prominent businesses. The area has been revitalized for both locals and tourists to enjoy. The railway buildings and site became home to Millars Connemara tweed mills, once the largest employer in the area. Millars produced their world-famous tweed there until the mill ceased manufacturing in the mid 1990s.
THE HOTEL FEATURES A RAILWAY THEME AND INCORPORATES MANY OF THE STATION’S ORIGINAL FEATURES, INCLUDING THE OLD RAILWAY PLATFORM.
In 1998, local businessman John Sweeney saw potential in the unused former Clifden Station buildings. In the following years, he undertook and completed a huge development and restoration project, which included the establishment of one of the area’s most popular accommodations, the Clifden Station House Hotel. Clifden Station House, now nearing its twentieth birthday, has evolved as a major tourist destination in the west of Ireland. The old stationmaster’s house is now home to a bar and restaurant specialising in quality cuisine made from the freshest local ingredients. The hotel features a railway theme and incorporates many of the station’s original features, including the old railway platform. It makes for the perfect spot to enjoy your morning coffee. The Station House Hotel, the first hotel to be built in Clifden in thirty years, also features a new structure built in the style of a traditional railway utility building. It houses an eighteen-metre heated swimming pool, sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi, and gym, as well as the Renew Spa by Rose Greene. The property earned a White Flag Award for Spa and Leisure for 2010–2011. The old engine house is now a museum with a particular emphasis on Clifden’s history. Exhibits detail the area’s connections with the development of the Marconi wireless radio, pioneering pilots Alcock and Brown’s transatlantic flight, Clifden founder John D’Arcy, and the majestic and lovable Connemara pony. The ‘Goods Store’, one of a number of the historical and listed buildings in the Station House development, has been carefully transformed into a two-hundred-seat, state-of-the-art theatre and cinema. Clifden Station House Theatre is one of the town’s premier entertainment halls, hosting many events, concerts, and performances year-round. 146 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
The Station House courtyard is a vibrant shopping and dining destination with fabulous boutiques including Ohh! By Gum, Design Platform, Millars Connemara, Hedz Hair Salon, and Steam Coffee House. Clifden Station House is an ideal centre for exploring Connemara and all its famed attractions. It’s a fantastic example of old-world Ireland being thoughtfully restored into comfortable, homely surroundings full of history and character.
WWW.CLIFDENSTATIONHOUSE.COM
RENVYLE HOUSE HOTEL & RESORT
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envyle House is a family owned, historic country hotel set on a 150 acre estate on the shores of the Wild Atlantic Way first opened in 1883.
Renvyle is an award winning hotel for its dining, service and Irish hospitality. Comfortable lounges with fireside seats and cosy turf fires. Caring members of staff who are delighted to share their knowledge of the area. Our Executive Chef, a Commissioner of Eurotoques, sources local ingredients both from the mountains, farms and the Atlantic at our doorstep. Connemara Hill Lamb, Irish Beef and the freshest Seafood grace our menus daily. The hotel grounds have many complimentary amenities for guests including a Par 3 Golf Course, a beach, a private freshwater lake for boating, fly-fishing and canoeing. There are two all weather tennis courts, a children’s playground, an outdoor heated swimming pool in the summer months, croquet lawn, woodland walks, kitchen gardens and sites of archaeological interest. Magic for Vacations ~ Memorable for Weddings ~ Here, the only stress is on relaxation.
Renvyle, Connemara, Co. Galway, H91 X8Y8, Ireland. Tel: +353 (0)95 46100 | Email: info@renvyle.com www.renvyle.com
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BESPOKE LUXURY HANDCRAFTED
IN
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BY MARIA ELENA SINIBALDI // PHOTOGRAPHY BY AOIFE HERRIOTT
Connemara Carpets exhibit tradition with custom design and unique colours to produce products made by experienced craftsmen.
CONNEMARA CARPETS HAS HAD MORE THAN FORTY YEARS OF EXPERIENCE PROVIDING DURABLE LUXURY CARPETS OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY TO CLIENTS WORLDWIDE. CONNEMARA CARPETS OFFERS SEAMLESS PIECES TO FIT ROOMS OF ANY SHAPE AND SIZE, WITH CUSTOM MEASURING AND COLOURMATCHING SERVICES AVAILABLE FOR A UNIQUE ADDITION TO THE OVERALL DESIGN OF ANY PROJECT.
If you ever get the pleasure of driving on that quiet, scenic stretch of the N59 road on the Wild Atlantic Way between Clifden and Letterfrack in north-west Connemara, you may see a roadside sign that reads ‘Connemara Carpets’. Behind this sign is an amazing story of beauty, grace, and enduring quality: a tale of devotion, perseverance, and belief in the value and durability of outstanding workmanship.
TH E E A R LY Y E A R S When Denis McMurray, founder of McMurray Carpets, first visited Connemara, he fell in love with its rugged beauty and the sense of peaceful isolation it inspired. In the early 1970s, when the McMurray family began making carpets in Connemara, they built a reputation of caring for the customer, giving close attention to detail, and V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 149
Voyager OVER FORTY-FIVE YEARS SINCE OPENING ITS DOORS, THEY STILL PRIDE THEMSELVES ON THE INITIAL PRINCIPLES SET OUT BY THE MCMURRAY FAMILY, FROM CUSTOM DESIGN, COLOUR MATCHING, AND PRECISE MEASURING TO FITTING AND DELIVERY.
Below: A carpet is hand tufted by a skilled artisan using a large frame. Opposite Top: This 132-square-metre (1420 square feet) seamless piece produced for the Galway County Council chamber features over twenty colours and tones inspired by County Galway’s landscape. Photo courtesy of Galway County Council Opposite Bottom: The highest quality 100 per cent merino wool is spun to Connemara Carpet’s own specifications and dyed using ecologically sound methods.
fast became renowned for its opulent creations and was proud to call some of the most prestigious residences and establishments its clients—from Dublin to Dubai and from London to New York and Florida.
always delivering world-class handmade carpets. The sensational floor coverings, produced by dedicated artisans, were hand tufted using large frames for seamless carpets that are naturally soft, resilient, and durable. They were made to withstand years of heavy wear—some of the original carpets made for hotels are still in situ after four decades.
McMurray Carpets became a thriving industry nestled quietly in the heart of Connemara. Employing a highly skilled local workforce, the factory and showroom provided a much-needed boost to the local economy.
In the old school buildings that were once the centre of the tiny village of Moyard, a new industry was born. Sourcing 100 per cent pure merino wool of the highest quality, spun to their own specification and dyed using ecologically sound methods, the family created a finished product that was natural, sustainable, and luxurious with the highest fire safety rating and an ability to stand the test of time. The company
The ever-changing landscape and lively local community provided a continuous creative spark for the many unique pieces still scattered throughout the globe today. Densely piled and hand tufted with rich colour, these carpets were and still are the ultimate in natural bespoke luxury, a symbol of grandeur and an investment for the discerning client. McMurray Carpets grace prestigious hotels, castles, corporate headquarters, palaces, and private residences in many countries. Their impressive client list is a tribute to the masterful skill and craftsmanship embodied in every carpet produced.
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DE CL I N E AN D ST R U G G L E Unfortunately, this level of dedication and passion was not entirely a match for the economic recession which hit Ireland in the 2007–2008 period. The economy both locally and globally was suffering. The prosperous years leading up to this had allowed for many national and international commissioned projects. The company, which had until then been a major employer in its rural community, employing more than twenty local people, was under threat of closure. Staying true to the quality and level of service they had provided up to this point was of vital importance to the survival of the brand. However, maintaining these standards meant losing out to competitive pricing from commercial manufacturers working in lower-cost economies overseas. Realising the detriment of such a closure to Connemara as a whole, a new owner emerged from within the local community. With a strong background in local development, Kieran O’Donohue stepped in to help revive the company and see it through this tough time. His own belief in the importance of retaining the product quality and exceptional standards was the driving force behind the brand’s survival. Using all of the resources available—both personal and public— he began the process of nurturing the business back to life. With the cooperation of committed local designers, tufters, and finishers returning in good faith, the new brand, Connemara Carpets, launched early in 2011 with just a handful of staff members. It has gone from strength to strength ever since. They continue the legacy that was gifted to them by the original founders. Over forty-five years since opening its doors, they still pride themselves on the initial principles set out by the McMurray family, from custom design, colour matching, and precise measuring to fitting and delivery. Their design team is led by one of the founding members of the company and his vast knowledge allows them to carry the careful tradition laid down by the McMurrays, while also introducing modern design techniques. Drawing on the creative energy of the Wild Atlantic Way and the ever-changing landscape of Connemara, they stay true to what was the initial driving vision of the brand. RE VI VAL AN D R EC OV ERY Having cultivated relationships with architects and interior designers all over the world, Connemara Carpets works closely with these experts to add an extra flourish to their grand designs. In particular, Carleton Varney, president of Dorothy Draper and Company in New York, utilises the specialist design capabilities and unrivalled colour matching to enhance his own very personal service. He and his company encourage Connemara Carpets to push the boundaries of design and bring his vivid ideas to life. Commissioning pieces for private homes throughout the US and for luxury hotels, his unique eye for quality and his expressive use of colour have produced what some may view as the most intricate and colourful projects to date. INS P I RAT I O N F O R T H E F U T U R E Ireland has seen somewhat of an economic resurgence in the last two years, and the company is undergoing a period of growth. Larger projects are beginning to emerge as the economy continues to improve. One such project, completed last year, saw one of their biggest seamless pieces—132 square metres (approximately
1420 square feet)—produced for the Galway County Council chamber, and this provided a welcome challenge for both designers and tufters alike. Borrowing its colours directly from the landscape of County Galway and using patterns of the ocean, their team created a carpet that was as impressive in visual terms as it was in size. Using more than twenty different colours and tones, the finished carpet was a landmark project which commanded much attention and high praise from local media. Ireland is now also seeing the return of Irish designers who had left due to lack of opportunity. They bring new ideas and approaches. These designers are ready to reinvest themselves in Ireland and in a brand that is rooted in its culture and resources. This will give way to what the company expects will be exciting creative developments in the coming years. Following the long record of exquisite quality and workmanship with infinite possibilities for size, design, and colour, Connemara Carpets remain committed to providing a unique service built on decades of tradition, experience, and, of course, a deep love of the Connemara landscape.
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TRIBAL CITY THE BRIDGE TO CONNEMARA By NICHOLAS GRUNDY
Morning view on the buildings and fishing boats along Galway Dock. Photo by Rihardzz / Shutterstock
Voyager espite its growing reputation of late, some people surprisingly still do not know where Galway is exactly. I always tell them: ‘Leave Dublin, head directly west for two hundred kilometres, and once you hit the ocean again you’re there.’ Resting at the head of Galway Bay, the city is not, however, quite at the extreme end of Ireland. While it can seem remote to some, Galway is rather well connected to the rest of the country while also serving as one of only three narrow entrances into the Connemara region further west. The city is squeezed between the sea to the south and the massive Lough Corrib to the north. This narrow spit of land between two great bodies of water measures only a few miles across, and at present a mere four bridges span the River Corrib, linking the rest of Ireland with Connemara. Galway comprises a number of distinct areas. In the centre, the keen eye will still spot numerous remnants of the old town walls which roughly encompass today’s inner city. Walking westward past countless buskers down the pedestrianised Shop Street, one reaches the Spanish Arch—in fact two arches forming a bulwark jutting out where river meets sea. Extending to the south is the much-photographed Long Walk, a row of terraced houses splashed in all variety of vibrant colours. Crossing the river atop Wolfe Tone Bridge brings you to the Claddagh, originally a seaside fishing community outside the city’s defences. Throughout summer, one can spot the area’s traditional fishing boats, Galway hookers, venturing out to sea as they unfurl their ruddy-brown sails.
Awaiting the sunrise at Blackrock Diving Board near Salthill, Galway. Photo by Rihardzz / Shutterstock
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Voyager Departing the namesake of Galway’s renowned Claddagh rings, a short walk further west sees the ocean emerge once more. Here lies Salthill, a stylish shoreline suburb and home to the long seafront walk known simply as ‘the Prom’. Strolling along, you will find the picturesque diving board and beach at Blackrock, as well as the magnificent Silverstrand at the city’s limits. Back in Galway’s heart, you can trace its history northward along the river. The city’s Irish name, Gaillimh, comes from this very river, known more commonly as the Corrib in English. At the river’s mouth is the original harbour. During the Middle Ages, Galway was the central port in Ireland for all trade with France and Spain, also welcoming maritime routes from around the Scottish isles. Further north, the river’s raging waters quickly branch out into various canals and races. Hundreds of years ago, these waterways rushed beneath the city’s many mills and distilleries. At one point, Galway even became the whiskey capital of Ireland, with the amber liquid brewed in immense stone structures vaulting over the many channels.
Merlin Castle in Merlin Park on the eastern side of Galway City. Photo by Nicholas Grundy
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From the thirteenth century right up until the end of the 1800s, a group of fourteen merchant families dominated all facets of life in the city. These clans eventually became known as the Tribes of Galway, and the term has certainly stuck. The local Gaelic football players and hurlers are the Tribesmen, while many of the family names can be spotted all around. After seeing the name ‘Joyce’ plastered on shopfronts and signs, one saunters down Kirwan’s Lane only to re-emerge and soon stumble upon Lynch’s Castle. The tribes also spread westward throughout Connemara, with descendant John D’Arcy of the D’Arcy dynasty founding Clifden.
JUST A STONE’S THROW ACROSS THE RIVER IS GALWAY’S WEST END, A POWERHOUSE FOR BOUTIQUE PUBS AND EATERIES, EVEN BOASTING ONE OF THE CITY’S TWO MICHELIN-STAR RESTAURANTS. WITH SO MUCH HAPPENING IN SUCH A SMALL SPACE, IT’S EASY TO SEE WHY GALWAY IS A TOURIST MECCA.
Galway’s pedestrian laneways are full to the brim with pubs and cafes. Photo by Nicholas Grundy
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A FAVOURITE EXPRESSION AMONG NATIVES IS ‘TAKE IT EASY’, AND IT DOESN’T TAKE LONG FOR THIS APPROACH TO LIFE TO RUB OFF ON OUTSIDERS. One aspect presided over by the families was Galway’s social life. While the fourteen houses no longer wield their former influence, the city’s pre-eminence as Ireland’s party capital has given rise to a group of modern-day tribes vying for control of the bustling social scene. Not necessarily tied to any specific bloodline, the current clans instead relate to geographical areas, each home to their own tightly knit constellation of popular venues. In the city centre, you have Eyre Square and Shop Street, housing Galway’s largest nightclubs. Around the corner is up-andcoming Woodquay, currently hoping to reinvent itself and win back some of the
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revellers. Back down toward the river sits the Latin Quarter, popular among tourists and locals alike. Finally, just a stone’s throw across the river is Galway’s West End, a powerhouse for boutique pubs and eateries, even boasting one of the city’s two Michelin-star restaurants. With so much happening in such a small space, it’s easy to see why Galway is a tourist mecca. Foreign tourists are not the only reason for Galway’s rich nightlife. Universities such as the National University of Ireland Galway and the Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology ensure a steady supply of energetic students keen to let their hair down year-round. Meanwhile, the city’s exhaustive list of annual festivals and events entices locals and outsiders alike. Spectators from Dublin, Cork, and Belfast flock to Ireland’s west in hopes of catching the Macnas street performers at one of their summer shows or the Halloween parade. Mouth-watering produce is brought in from Connemara for the yearly food festival held in April. And if that wasn’t enough, specific foods such as oysters even have their own separate festivals later in the year. In July and August, the city is swamped with punters keen to make it big at the Galway Races. If horse racing isn’t your cup of tea, there are plenty of opportunities for the keen runner, including the Streets of Galway road race. The Galway International Arts Festival is a major hit each summer, showcasing local, national, and overseas talent. In fact, the Galway art scene is steadily reaching its boiling point, tipped to explode should it win the highly anticipated title of European Capital of Culture in the year 2020.
Galway is indeed the most bohemian of Ireland’s cities, where everyone knows their neighbourhood’s eccentric artists and other creatives. When it comes to cultural offerings, you won’t come up short here. Accomplished musicians perform in crowded taverns which host poetry readings the very next day. Brilliantly choreographed stage performers dazzle onlookers across the road from gourmet restaurateurs. Unconventional art forms are likewise burgeoning, the most conspicuous being large-scale street art installations. As a cultural hub, Galway attracts street artists from far and wide. One particular painter recently returned to announce his mission to bring colour and life to the streets. A beautiful aspect of all this is the small-town vibe still felt in this city. In other parts of the world, it’s rare that you can spot a new mural only to realise it was painted by your own neighbour. Perhaps it is precisely this laid-back nature of Galway which is its defining feature. Unlike in Dublin, here you have both the space and the time to settle in and explore. A favourite expression among natives is ‘take it easy’, and it doesn’t take long for this approach to life to rub off on outsiders. As soon as the sun is shining, the Salthill promenade is thronged with walkers. As you watch them meander past, stopping to chat with dawdling cyclists, it is easy to understand why Galway was recently voted the friendliest city in the world by readers of Travel + Leisure. Tig Cóilí on Mainguard Street is one of many laid-back pubs in Galway perfect for enjoying a pint on your way to or from Connemara. Photo by Rolf G Wackenberg / Shutterstock
Just one word of warning though: many a visitor has come to Galway only to become trapped in this glorious locale. So maybe just book yourself a one-way ticket for now.
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+353 (0)95 21039 | Lower Market Street, Clifden, Co. Galway | www.Stanleys.ie Open Monday–Saturday 10am–6pm | Sundays seasonally 11am–5pm Find us on Facebook at Stanleys Clifden!
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Established in 1824, Stanleys Clifden has evolved as a shop offering a wide range of products and services to its customers. The sixth-generation family business is a firm part of the Clifden community, stocking a vast array of high-quality casual clothing, outdoor clothing, Irish tweed jackets, knitwear, caps, scarves, rugs and fishing tackle, along with a large footwear selection. You’re spoilt for choice! Stanleys prides itself in providing high-quality fashion labels including: Magee, Barbour, Saint James and Irelands Eye. If you’re visiting Connemara, Stanleys Clifden is a must-stop shopping destination.
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Reframing THE FUTURE
Landscape 1, Desk with Maple and Yew by Gabriel Hielscher, Galway Photo by Geraldine O’Brien
Voyager By AMANDA CROWLEY Photography by Courtesy of GMIT LETTERFRACK
The village of Letterfrack, nestled beside Connemara National Park and Diamond Hill, treats visitors and residents to some of Connemara’s most stunning scenery and a peaceful atmosphere. This quiet yet vibrant community is home to the National Centre for Excellence in Furniture Design and Technology, housed at the Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology (GMIT) Letterfrack. The college fosters creativity in students and teaches them the skills they need to excel in the fields of furniture design and technology, all while they live in this beautiful part of Connemara. The old building at GMIT dates back to 1887, when it was part of the former Saint Joseph’s Industrial School for boys run by the Irish Christian Brothers, which closed in 1974. Connemara West, a community and rural development organisation based in north-west Connemara, purchased it after that, and through a partnership with GMIT, the college was opened in 1987. New buildings were added in 2002 to accommodate the increase in enrolment at GMIT, house its state-of-the-art technology, and raise the excellent standard of education it provides. GMIT Letterfrack provides students with a top-notch education from dedicated lecturers and professors. The machine halls and bench rooms accommodate state-of-the-art machinery including computer numerically controlled (CNC) and laser technology, as well as robotics and computer aided design (CAD) laboratories. The college has connections with major furniture design and manufacturing companies around the world, allowing students to gain experience through work placements and seek employment with top professionals in design and manufacturing. In a recent interview with the Connacht Tribune, Dr Fergal Barry, president of GMIT, stated that Letterfrack ‘is really our star performer. … For our careers fair this year, we had very senior executives from abroad flying in by helicopter recruiting from there.’ Barry isn’t the only fan of GMIT Letterfrack; President Michael D. Higgins visits the prestigious campus regularly. When storms caused trees to fall on the grounds of Áras an Uachtaráin in 2014, the timber was donated for use in student projects, with President Higgins requesting that some pieces be made to give as gifts to dignitaries who come to visit Ireland.
AWARD-WINNING CAMPUS Not only has GMIT Letterfrack been designated a National Centre for Excellence in Furniture Design and Technology, but it has also won awards for everything from its buildings, which received honors from both the Royal Institute of the Architects of Ireland and the Architectural Association of Ireland in 2001
and 2002 respectively, to its students, who have regularly claimed top prizes from the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland, IrelandSkills National Competitions, the global Undergraduate Awards, and the Wood Marketing Federation Ireland. The welcoming and knowledgeable staff is made up of published authors, researchers, and experts in the field of technology and furniture design. Three of the lecturers have won the GMIT President’s Award for Teaching Excellence in the past seven years.
EMERGING DESIGNERS AT GMIT LETTERFRACK GABRIEL HIELSCHER With hopes of one day opening his own workshop focusing on contemporary design in Ireland, GMIT Letterfrack student Gabriel Hielscher anchors his passion in the creative landscape of Connemara. ‘Letterfrack may appear to be a small village, but I find it to be a very sociable place,’ Hielscher says. ‘I am fortunate to be surrounded by several neighbours all working in creative disciplines and can see why many people come here to be inspired. I had never known such a vast amount of bright colors existed in the Irish landscape.’ Hielscher’s education has been enriched by the close bond he’s formed with classmates and lecturers at GMIT Letterfrack. The campus is small and specialized, which often leads to friendships with fellow V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 161
suggested he would be a great teacher and that GMIT Letterfrack had a course he should look into. In 2013, he spoke with staff and students in the Bachelor of Science (Honours) in Education (Design Graphics and Construction) programme during an open day on the campus and made his decision to attend. ‘I got a really good vibe from everybody I spoke to,’ Elliffe recalls. ‘Lecturers and students alike spoke highly of the Letterfrack community; this community is such a big part of why Letterfrack is ideal for teacher education. No door is closed to you—with the exception of the machine hall for health and safety—and I mean that. From the ladies in Connemara West (a community development organisation) to the head of department, everybody is willing to listen, answer any questions you have, address any issues that you might be having. It is quite simply a community.’ Elliffe, a mature student with a young family, was inspired by this spirit of support and passion for education and passes it along to his students. Having finished his first teaching placement this year, he credits the lessons learned at GMIT Letterfrack with the success of its students. ‘Letterfrack of course gives you great practical skills, but it also gives you the pedagogical skills that enables you to pass that knowledge and skill on to your own students.’
NÁDHÚRA DESIGN
‘IRISH DESIGN 2015 SEEMS TO HAVE OPENED A LOT OF PEOPLE’S EYES AND INTEREST IN WHAT IS HAPPENING HERE.’ students and staff. ‘I find that I learn as much from my college friends as I do from the curriculum,’ Hielscher explains. ‘All of the students are very dedicated to their courses, and we are constantly discussing college work.’
Top: Drift, Rocking Chair with Ash and Cherry by Robert Gorman, Kilkenny Photo by Geraldine O’Brien Bottom: The college’s campus sits in the beautiful village of Letterfrack, where students can concentrate on their studies and take inspiration from the landscape.
He spent a five-month work placement in the UK with Benchmark furniture. Benchmark deals primarily with high-end solid wood furniture and focuses on quality and design. The future of design in Ireland is bright, and Hielscher believes the coming years will see even greater progress: ‘Irish Design 2015 seems to have opened a lot of people’s eyes and interest in what is happening here.’
KARL ELLIFFE Karl Elliffe trained as a carpenter working in the construction industry until several friends
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Nádhúra has strived to change the game in custom furniture design since it opened in 2012. Derived from Nádúrtha, meaning ‘natural’ in Gaeilge, Nádhúra is a Galway-based company composed of GMIT Letterfrack alumni, taking the wealth of experience, skills, and creative talents they developed to the next level. Their experience ranges from work in Ireland and North America with prominent architectural woodworking firms and within the aerospace industry to interior design consultation, advocating universal design principles, and bespoke, hand-crafted products. ‘All the skills I learned in Letterfrack are so applicable to what I now do at work,’ attests Nádhúra team member Ainslie Peters. The diversity of skill sets among the team has contributed to giving Nádhúra a strong footing as its designers navigate this dynamic industry.
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Top: Inspired by traditional Irish country-style furniture, Nádhúra’s Tuath range exhibits the company’s values of quality and sustainability and is customisable to the client’s desires Photo by Gerard Conneely Bottom: The Nádhúra team is made up of GMIT Letterfrack graduates. Left to right: Ainslie Peters, Oisin White, Peter Ranalow, Mark Leonard, and Michael Cooney Photo by Gerard Conneely
CUSTOMERS CAN CO-DESIGN THEIR IDEAL PRODUCTS IN TERMS OF SIZE, FINISH, MATERIAL, AND DESIGN FEATURES, RESULTING IN A PRODUCT THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT A CUSTOMER WANTS. Nádhúra’s design professionals ensure their methods and values have been integrated into their work from the very beginning as they offer a range of tailor-made pieces, from kitchen tables to dressers and sideboards. The company sources natural materials that are produced ethically and responsibly. All Nádhúra products have been designed in the spirit of innovation, using the latest tools in computer-aided design and an intelligent, intentional process that allows for the customization of each piece. Customers can co-design their ideal products in terms of size, finish, material, and design features, resulting in a product that is exactly what a customer wants—without lengthy redesign times and the prohibitive costs typical of custom furniture. Marrying an appreciation for fine Irish craftsmanship and aesthetics with an understanding of emerging technologies and design processes, Nádhúra conceived its first furniture range, Tuath, a modern furniture collection inspired by traditional Irish country style. The line truly exemplifies Nádhúra’s company values of quality, sustainability, and customization. Irish vernacular furniture would have been naturally sustainable, with pieces being handcrafted from
available material and designed with unique features based on the location of the maker. In adapting these principles to the modern furniture market, Nádhúra’s products are made by trusted manufacturing partners local to where the customer lives. In adopting this approach, Nádhúra not only supports talented makers but also boasts a dramatically reduced environmental impact as the products do not need to travel great distances. This is just the start of the Nádhúra story. This concept quickly evolved into a comprehensive design service, and Nádhúra now works with clients in America, the UK, and Ireland to deliver engineered solutions ready for manufacture. It has an impressive portfolio of projects. Additionally, the team’s advanced process has led to collaborative relationships with interior designers, creating custom furniture ranges and bespoke products.
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A Family Affair GLENBRICKEN FARM AND ITS LEGACY BY AMANDA CROWLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROMONA ROBBINS
The rugged landscape of Connemara and the fierce beauty of its coastline frame the lives of those who call the west of Ireland home. Its rich history has been formed through centuries of tradition, the unwavering strength of its people, and a dedication to the land. One family, the Gorhams of County Galway, have devoted over fifty years to their passion—the Connemara pony—and have attained recognition as breeders of world renown.
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alachy Gorham, his wife, Jane, and their children, Maria, Mal, and Molly, carry on his father’s legacy at Glenbricken Farm near the town of Clifden. Malachy’s brothers, Joe and John, are invaluable when it comes to showing ponies in the ring, not to mention the less glamorous side of the business, such as web development and other technical duties. Their sisters, Ann and Mary, make it a point to be available to help the family during the Connemara Pony Show held each August in Clifden.
Growing up on a farm, Malachy felt an undeniable connection to the horses. He worked alongside his father to learn the subtle qualities that distinguish a good pony from a great pony.
Since 1924, thousands of people have travelled to Clifden to attend the prestigious week-long event. Whether they wish to buy a pony or simply to admire the breed, Clifden is the place to be for Connemara pony equestrians at the top of their game. ‘It’s our Christmas,’ says Malachy. ‘As a family we work hard all week, but there is plenty of time for celebrating.’ The Connemara Pony Show holds a special place in the hearts of the Gorham family not only because they have won numerous awards over the years, but also because Malachy’s nephew, the first child of the next generation, was born on show day back in 1989. ‘It was a great day for the family,’ remembers Malachy. Growing up on a farm, Malachy felt an undeniable connection to the horses. He worked alongside his father to learn the subtle qualities that distinguish a good pony from a great pony. ‘It’s not an exact science; there is some trial and error,’ Malachy notes. ‘A prizewinning mare and stallion will not always produce a winner.’ Considering the breed’s traits and demeanour, Malachy studies the bloodlines of a stallion and carefully chooses a mare that he senses will be a good fit for the best appearance in their offspring. Then the trial-anderror phase begins: ‘You really never know what is going to work. We’re not in it for the money—if we were, we would just be cranking out foals and it wouldn’t be good for the horse. They aren’t machines.’ Protecting and honouring the Connemara pony breed is in the Gorham blood. Malachy’s eldest child, Maria, has also developed a love for the ponies. Like her father, she adores the foaling season, as new life brings hope, renewed commitment, and endless possibility. She also enjoys riding and showing in competitions, but she especially loves figuring out what the horses are naturally good at and then working with them to enhance those traits. With expertise and poise beyond her years, Maria confidently V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 165
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‘I’m happy when I see a pony I’ve sold go off and win. That gives me a sense of pride to see our work paying off for someone else.’
moves around two of the family’s mares, who seem to respect her presence. She is quickly absorbing the knowledge and wisdom imparted by her father and grandfather as well. The ponies of Glenbricken Farm are known as Kingstown Connemara Ponies, and Malachy has travelled throughout the UK, Europe, America, and Australia representing his Kingstown line. With the Kingstown family growing worldwide, he has friends all over and believes this camaraderie is ‘one of the best parts of the pony community.’ The Kingstown ponies have gone on to be very successful for other owners, who in turn promote the name. With a great pony bloodline, a wealth of knowledge, careful planning, and a bit of luck, Malachy has set his ponies apart, and he realizes that people come to him to get the authentic Connemara ponies. ‘I’m happy when I see a pony I’ve sold go off and win. That gives me a sense of pride to see our work paying off for someone else,’ he says. ‘I do travel a bit to judge and give seminars on Connemara ponies. Recently at a competition, someone remarked, “You have the most marketable item in the equine world right now.” I really do believe there is no better animal. We all have a natural love of the horses. They have become part of the family.’ ‘And they get Christmas cake, too!’ Maria chimes in.
Your sweet Southern moments
855.971.1490 . GoSouthern.com . #sweetSouthern THE BEACHES OF NORTHWEST FLORIDA & COASTAL ALABAMA
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ISLE B Y L U K E M U R R AY
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Dead Man’s Cove, Inishbofin Photo by Mark Furniss
Inishbofin is an island that lies roughly eleven kilometres off the coast of north-west Connemara. A vibrant star in the galaxy of islands that guards Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, it is a place that has borne witness to a history as rich and interesting as anywhere else in the country. It is a history informed by an abundance of archaeological riches still visible on the island today. It is also a history fired by the traditions of mythology and storytelling, which are an integral part of Irish culture. The roots of its name alone (from the Irish Inis Bó Finne, meaning ‘Island of the White Cow’) give one a sense of the mysticism long associated with Inishbofin. The story goes that Inishbofin was a floating place, neither anchored nor tethered in one location, and eternally shrouded in an ocean mist. One night, two fishermen lost at sea in a heavy fog drifted ashore on this enchanted island. They lit a fire, its flames broke the spell that burdened the place, and at once the fog cleared. It was then they observed an old woman driving a white cow along a stony beach that separated the sea from a lake (this would be the North Beach of Inishbofin, between the ocean and Loch Bó Finne, the ‘Lake of the White Cow’). She struck the cow with a stick, and both she and the beast turned to stone. Oral tradition maintains that the woman and the white cow will emerge from the lake as a forewarning of impending disaster. From
The Tower stands strong against the storms of winter. Photo by Marie Coyne
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THE TOWERING COVES AND CLIFFS OF WESTQUARTER AND THE NORTHERN COASTLINE, CARVED BY A FURIOUS OCEAN OVER MILLENNIA, PROVIDE A STARK CONTRAST TO THE SPRAWLING GOLDEN BEACHES ON THE SHELTERED EAST SIDE. a beginning as haunting and mysterious as this, the island was never going to be a dull place—quite the opposite, as it turns out—but it is as enchanting now as it was then, ready to cast its spell on anyone lucky enough to find themselves here.
century. Saint Colman of Lindisfarne sought out the island for the creation of a monastery after a dispute with the Catholic Church in England. Originally from the west of Ireland, he left with his followers and came to Inishbofin in AD 665. A stone chapel was built on the site of his monastery in the fourteenth century and still stands today, now surrounded by the island’s graveyard.
Setting aside the folklore, the island is known to have been inhabited for several thousand years. Evidence has been found of Bronze Age (c.3200 BC–c.600 BC) settlements, and the island has several promontory fort sites that are recognised as being from the Iron Age (1200 BC–1 BC). These are dotted around the coast of the island at strategic locations, the most formidable of which is at Dún Mór (‘Big Fort’) in Westquarter, a site located on the highest cliffs of the island. In terms of tangible recorded history, the first significant appearance of Inishbofin in the written record was in the seventh
The famed pirate queen, Granuaile (Grace O’Malley), also appears in the history and traditions of Inishbofin. One site called Dún Gráinne bears her name, and folklore maintains that she controlled the island in alliance with a Spanish pirate, Don Alonzo Bosco. It is said they stretched a chain from her fort across the harbour’s mouth to his stronghold on the other side to entrap those who entered and also to keep out unwanted visitors. Plunder and misfortune were sure to follow for those who became snared inside.
The ruin of Cromwell’s Barracks guards the harbour mouth on Inishbofin’s southern coast. Photo by Stephanie Salmon 170 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Where Don Bosco’s settlement was reputed to have been, the still-impressive remains of Cromwell’s Barracks (commonly referred to as the Castle) can be seen now. Inishbofin was one of the last Royalist-held territories against the New Model Army of Oliver Cromwell’s Parliamentarians as they swept across Ireland, leaving
devastation in their wake during the English Civil War in the mid 1600s. Upon the capture of Inishbofin, they built the imposing fortress that stands defiantly to this day, watching over the mouth of the island’s safe harbour nearly four centuries later. It was used as a staging post for Catholic priests who were being expelled from Ireland to the Caribbean. Throughout its history, Inishbofin has sustained itself on the traditional industries of fishing and farming. It is difficult to imagine now, but at the height of its population in the nineteenth century, the island supported around a thousand people. Inishbofin was also used as a base for many more fishermen from the surrounding islands and the Connemara coast; however, the primary industry on the island today is tourism. This is a market that, from the first semi-regular passenger trips that the poet Richard Murphy ran in the 1950s, has slowly and steadily grown to accommodate around forty thousand visitors each year. Inishbofin receives visitors year-round, but the season really gets going at Easter, when all of the hospitality businesses throw open their doors once more to welcome guests, both old and new.
An Inishbofin púcán, a traditional boat of Connemara, in full sail Photo by Marie Coyne
So, what is it that draws people to this island of such mythical beginnings? You could find a different reason for every day of the year. Chief among them is the island itself, as a physical landscape. It is breathtakingly beautiful, a place that is best explored over several days or even weeks, for even in a relatively small area (five and a half by three kilometres), it is a remarkably diverse environment. The
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ABOVE ALL ELSE, IT IS THE PEOPLE THAT MAKE THE ISLAND SUCH A SPECIAL PLACE. LOCALS WILL HAPPILY STOP TO TALK AND ANSWER QUESTIONS, PROVIDE ADVICE, TELL STORIES, AND WELCOME VISITORS TO THESE SHORES.
visit the seal colony; ramble along three National Looped Walks; spend some time getting hands-on with a visit to a working island farm; step back in time with the Heritage Museum; immerse yourself in the ornithological riches of the island with a birdwatching weekend—the list of wonderful activities goes on and on and grows each year.
towering coves and cliffs of Westquarter and the northern coastline, carved by a furious ocean over millennia, provide a stark contrast to the sprawling golden beaches on the sheltered east side. Climbing the hills of Westquarter or Knock gives one command of a view hardly rivalled on the western seaboard of Ireland. It brings the coastlines of Connemara and Mayo—with mountains, hills, and islands beyond counting—together in a glorious panoramic tapestry, a vista that eludes mere written description. To look to the west is to stare at a horizon interrupted only by the neighbouring island of Inishark, bereft of inhabitants since 1960, whose empty and ruined houses silhouetted against the Atlantic skyline serve as a constant reminder of the fragility of island living. Beyond her quiet fields, more than three thousand kilometres of frothing ocean must be navigated to make landfall once again in Newfoundland. For those with a thirst for adventure, Inishbofin is a place that each year seeks to offer more refreshment. To such spirits, each day can bring a new method of exploration and thrill-seeking: hire a bike and take to the road; spend a few hours on horseback, trekking the coast and the hills; experience a kayaking or snorkelling tour of the pristine Blueway Trail in one of Ireland’s most incredible natural harbours; take a guided historical walking tour and discover even more of the island’s heritage; charter an island-hopping rigid inflatable boat (RIB) tour and 172 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
All of this, however, merely touches upon what makes Inishbofin so special. A recent project initiated by the community and run by EcoTourism Ireland has brought a determination to promote tourism that is sustainable and environmentally conscious and that benefits the local economy. The island is moving toward being as self-sufficient as possible, reducing its impact in terms of waste production by running projects aimed at recycling materials, and generally trying to do things in the right way to ensure a future that does not negatively affect the beautiful natural environment. Inishbofin is Ireland’s first ‘Leave No Trace’ island, partnering with the Leave No Trace outdoor educational organisation to promote responsible tourism worldwide. It is the first Fairtrade Island in the Republic of Ireland and has developed its own unique Inishbofin Fairtrade coffee. The diverse schedule of festivals throughout the summer celebrates all that is best about every aspect of the island’s culture, including its music, arts, seafaring, and food. Indeed, the island is famous nationally as a centre for traditional Irish music through its indigenous musicians and also through the hundreds of visitors who come every year to perform. Inishbofin’s bars, restaurants, and hotels serve the finest of island produce where possible throughout the summer, culminating in the fantastic Bia Bó Finne Food Festival every October. Above all else, it is the people that make the island such a special place. Locals will happily stop to talk and answer questions, provide advice, tell stories, and welcome visitors to these shores. Inishbofin people share their beautiful home with so many year after year, and yet they are unstintingly welcoming for all that. So step aboard the ferry, leave behind the cares of mainland living, and see for yourself all that the Island of the White Cow and its people have to offer.
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Kylemore Abbey sits in the heart of Connemara, welcoming visitors to the west of Ireland with its rich history and beautiful landscape. Photo courtesy of Kylemore Abbey 174 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
BY E I T H N E O’ H A L L O R A N If mortar and bricks could talk, what stories would be told by the walls of Kylemore Abbey? For almost 150 years, its halls and stairways have witnessed the lives of many people, all united behind the granite facade to become part of one intriguing history—not just of the wealthy businessman and his family who built Kylemore, but also of the workmen, the servants, the school girls, the Benedictine nuns, and the many visitors who come to Kylemore each year, all with their own histories and stories to tell. In 1867, the castle first rose up from the pristine Connemara countryside. Mitchell Henry, a surgeon, businessman, politician, and philanthropist, had the castle built for his beautiful wife, Margaret. His love for Margaret and their large family is apparent in every detail of the vast estate. Margaret laid the first brick using a beautifully engraved ceremonial trowel, and her family crest, that of the Vaughan family, hangs to this day in the hands of an angel above the castle door. The seventy-room castle boasted Italian decor, a magnificent ballroom, a library, a drawing room, and a dining room draped in black and gold silks. The estate also had its own darkroom, telegraph office, and fire brigade of scarlet-clad volunteer firemen. A mile from the castle, a magnificent eight-acre walled garden with twenty-one heated glasshouses was tended by up to forty gardeners.
Henry’s daughter Geraldine in an accident a few miles from Kylemore. Henry never could have imagined having his daughter’s remains shipped for burial in America or having his wife embalmed in Cairo. In time, a modest mausoleum was prepared for Margaret in a sheltered spot along the castle’s lakeside avenue, where she and Mitchell both now rest. When Kylemore Castle was sold in 1903, the Duke and Duchess of Manchester arrived to take up residence. The castle was virtually torn apart in the couple’s rush to redecorate. It is reputed that the duke finally lost the castle in a late-night
The Henry family enjoyed a pampered lifestyle of expensive hobbies such as hunting, yachting, and photography punctuated by picnics and balls. Archive photographs show the sons, dressed in Scottish tweeds and looking the part of countrified young gentlemen, posing with fishing gillies and gamekeepers. For the five Henry daughters, Kylemore provided a break from the formality of London life, and they too enjoyed the outdoor pursuits of the ‘Irish Highlands’. The local people were in awe of every detail of Kylemore’s transformation as it was built. Accustomed to life in meagre windowless cabins, even the walled tiles of the estate’s abattoir were a wonder to them. The well-paid work provided at Kylemore was a godsend for people who lived incredibly hard and precarious lives in the rugged countryside. The Henry tenure brought a period of security and improvement to the area. Great wealth, however, gave no immunity from tragedy, and the Henrys suffered more than their fair share. First came Margaret’s death at the age of forty-five, which occurred during a family holiday to Egypt, and later, the horrific death of
Photo by Lucy Mashburn
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Voyager card game. Although apocryphal, the story fits with the public’s image of the flighty duke, who left the castle under a cloud of debt in 1913. Next to come to Kylemore, in 1920, were the Benedictine nuns who had fled war-torn Europe when their ancient abbey in Ypres, Belgium, finally succumbed to shelling. In 1922, an international boarding school was opened in the Abbey, and the nuns, who lived a quiet life, were joined by their first intake of school girls. The girls brought youth, laughter, and light both into the lives of the nuns and into the building itself. Most days of the year, the Abbey would have up to a hundred girls tramping the stairs, performing plays, and giggling in their dorms at night. In 2010, the last boarders left Kylemore Abbey, and once again a hush descended upon the classrooms and stairwells. Downstairs, however, it was a different story. Ever since the nuns began to welcome paying guests back in the 1950s, there has been a steady stream of visitors touring Kylemore. Spontaneous wedding proposals, inspired by the surroundings and the romantic history, are not unusual. Staff members regularly meet with couples who got engaged at the castle or spent their honeymoons in the nuns’ guest house in the 1950s. People often come to Kylemore looking for something more than the average holiday experience. They are looking for a sense of connection, for meaning in the stories, the landscape, and the history, and for a chance to reflect. Their experiences, their prayers and hopes, and what they leave behind become part of the ever-growing tapestry of lives woven into the continuing story of Kylemore Abbey. Br i n g i n g No t r e D a m e t o Ky l e m o r e Ab b e y The summer of 2016 saw Kylemore Abbey revert to its traditional role as a place of learning, and it was a group of American students that heralded a new era for
The cathedral-inminiature Gothic Church remains open for use on the Kylemore estate. Photo by Lucy Mashburn
the iconic building. In a unique meeting of minds and cultures, the Benedictine nuns of Kylemore Abbey have entered into a partnership with one of America’s most famous and prestigious Catholic universities, Notre Dame. Notre Dame students attend residential classes at Kylemore, which include creative writing, environmental fieldwork, literature, language, and spiritual retreats. It also offers them the opportunity to immerse themselves in the beautiful and inspiring setting of western Ireland. In 1998, Notre Dame established the Keough-Naughton Centre for Irish Studies in Dublin. The centre operates as a ‘global gateway’ for Notre Dame students in Ireland. It hosts seminars and lectures from a broad range of Irish and international academics, artists, musicians, and thinkers. The centre provides visiting Notre Dame students with the fullest possible experience of Ireland and what it means to be Irish; however, it does not provide residential courses such as those available at Kylemore. An extensive refurbishment plan has been under way at the Kylemore estate since winter 2015, centring on the area to the east of the building formerly known as Saint Joseph’s boarding school. When Kylemore Abbey was first built as the Henrys’ home, the east wing was the location of sumptuous Turkish baths. In 1959, the wing was badly damaged by fire and rebuilt as Saint Joseph’s, now a modern functional space providing the high standards of accommodation and learning to which Notre Dame’s students are accustomed. Plans are also in place for a new monastic building to be built for the nuns, which will better serve their needs. The new monastery will be located next to the Benedictine church, facing out onto the lake and the Kylemore Valley, not far from the Abbey at the heart of the estate. Famed worldwide as the home of the Fighting Irish American football team, Notre Dame has a connection with Ireland that features very strongly in its identity. This Irishness manifests itself in more ways than just individuals wearing green. The Keough-Naughton Institute for Irish Studies at Notre Dame is dedicated exclusively to Irish culture, literature, language, and politics. Many Notre Dame students learn to speak and express themselves in the Irish language, which is just one example of how Ireland has been brought to the university’s main campus in Notre Dame, Indiana. The Fighting Irish catchphrase is given more than lip service, as the university now uses it as a way to express the attitude it wishes students to adopt in their learning journey. Notre Dame students are challenged not just to fight for success on the football field, but also to fight for knowledge, understanding, equality and justice, and a real connection with the college’s symbolic home, Ireland. Notre Dame describes itself as an ‘unashamedly Catholic university’ where the majority of students live on campus in single-sex dormitories, and this ethos continues at Kylemore. For past pupils of Kylemore Abbey, this all sounds quite familiar. The school’s alumnae, now spread around the globe, will be watching with interest—and perhaps more than a little envy—to see how Kylemore’s latest generation of students fares.
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Notre Dame aspires to widen the students’ horizons and give them an experience of Ireland outside of Dublin. There is little doubt that all who spend time at Kylemore will be affected by the surroundings. Here, a learning environment can be created where lifelong friendships will unfold, and the learning experience will be enriched and enhanced by history and natural beauty. Over the years, Notre Dame has played host to some very influential Irish people on their home campus, including poets W. B. Yeats and Seamus Heaney, past presidents Mary Robinson and Mary McAleese, Taoiseach Enda Kenny, and the band U2. This tradition will continue at Kylemore, as an impressive line-up of speakers and guest tutors from Ireland’s cultural sector and academic spheres will be invited to contribute to the students’ experience.
Henry Mitchell built the Gothic Church in memory of his beloved wife, Margaret. Photo by Lucy Mashburn
In 2015, Taoiseach Enda Kenny attended a ceremony at Kylemore Abbey to launch the beginning of the restoration and put an end to speculation about the future of the estate. The partnership with Notre Dame secures Kylemore Abbey both as the home of the Benedictine nuns and as an essential contributor to the economy of Connemara. Notre Dame will now have a home in the west of Ireland, ensuring that the two-way relationship can only grow stronger as time goes on.
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A Beauty Like No Other
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Ireland’s West is a wonder to behold. From the artistry and magic of her centuries-old stone walls that crisscross the rolling green hills to the rocky, untamed shores of the Atlantic, Connemara is a veritable feast for the senses. Let your eyes gaze upon the Twelve Bens framed against the morning sky. Listen as the waters of the wild ocean meet the shores. Let the smell of a peat fire transport you to Ireland’s storied past. Savour the bountiful seafood, caught fresh each day. Let your hands brush along the wild heather on a winding back road. Connemara’s beauty may become your muse, as it has for countless authors, poets, and artists through the centuries.
An early autumn sunset off the Errislannan Peninsula Photo by Mark Furniss
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I wanted real adventures to happen to myself. But real adventures, I reflected, do not happen to people who remain at home: they must be sought abroad.
— James Joyce, Dubliners
A pony grazes before the ruin of Renvyle Castle in the most north-west part of Connemara. Photo by Romona Robbins
Derrygimlagh Bog is one of the most historically significant sites in Connemara, where aviators Alcock and Brown landed near the Marconi telegraph station in 1919. Photo by Mark Furniss 182 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
A golden sun rises over Roundstone Bog. Photo by Mark Furniss
May the Irish hills caress you. May her lakes and rivers bless you. May the luck of the Irish enfold you. May the blessings of Saint Patrick behold you.
— Irish Blessing Derryinver Bridge is one of many charming crossings in Ireland’s west. Photo by Romona Robbins
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When the skies are ink above us and the sea runs white with foam In a cot in Connemara there’s a wife and wee one praying To the One who walked the waters once, to send us safely home.
— Francis Fahy,‘ The Queen of Connemara’
The Inagh Valley Road is one of Connemara’s most scenic drives. Photo by Mark Furniss
“After a nice hike through the bog I spotted this cottage and went for a closer look. I spotted the old Fordson tractor and knew this would make an interesting focal point to amazing mountains in the background.” Taken at the foothills of Benbaun in Connemara. Photo by Trevor Dubber 184 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
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BY AMANDA CROWLEY PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF THE MARCONI COMPANY
History allows us to look back and appreciate the enormous strides achieved by pioneers in science and technology. Sadly, stories are often forgotten, replaced by the next great advance or discovery, or buried in a bog of compounding layers built upon that first spark of genius. But recently, historians in western Ireland have come together to unearth the past and share the accomplishments of inventor Guglielmo Marconi. Long before Ireland was known as the European Silicon Valley, Connemara helped lay the groundwork for the mobile phone that we can’t seem to live without. With the help of the Connemara Chamber of Commerce, the Clifden Chamber of Commerce, the Galway County Council, and Fáilte Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, a small team has begun to memorialise Marconi and his tenacious spirit that connected two continents by way of radio telegraphy. The team includes Shane Joyce, noted radio archaeologist; historian Michael Gibbons, one of Ireland’s leading field archaeologists; and Christopher Shannon, former president of the Clifden Chamber of Commerce. GUGLIELMO MARCONI Marconi was the son of Italian country gentleman Giuseppe Marconi and Annie Jameson, of the Jameson Irish Whiskey family. He was born 25 April 1874 in Bologna, Italy, and it was there he began his work on radio and wireless communication as a young man, studying the works of Hertz, Maxwell, and others whose works challenged his imagination. Marconi later moved to England to further his research, gaining legal and scientific recognition and even winning a shared
Ruins from the once-bustling Clifden Marconi Station
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Nobel Prize in Physics in 1909, sixteen years after he began experimenting with electromagnetic waves. LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION Marconi’s original telegraph stations were built in Cornwall, England, and Cape Cod, Massachusetts, but when the distance proved too great, he was forced to reconsider locations. A grant from the Canadian government, equating to about €1 million today, allowed him to construct a station in Glace Bay, Nova Scotia. Knowing Cornwall would still be too far, Marconi ventured to the wild Irish west coast, finding both the ideal distance and conditions in Derrygimlagh near the town of Clifden. The station began operating in April 1907.
‘Connemara is not an area most people would associate with technology,’ Joyce says. ‘The climate is considered wild, but its location and distance to North America, in addition to the unobstructed boglands, was ideal for sending and receiving messages.’ When looking at the site today, it’s easy to imagine what Marconi saw: empty boglands sprawling for miles and the spirit of determination embedded in the earth. He could envision a massive operation with a condenser house, tall transmitter towers, workers’ quarters, generators, peat boilers, and a small railway. On the morning of 15 October 15 1907, only the tapping of a message by the duty operator could be heard in the Irish station. At exactly 11.30 a.m., a message was transmitted to the New York Times. Its successful reception in Glace Bay launched the commercial signalling between continents and officially opened the Clifden Marconi Station. Shortly after, a congratulatory message was sent from Glace Bay confirming receipt. Ten thousand words were transmitted across the Atlantic that first day, thanks to Marconi’s genius and tenacity and the hard-working Irishmen powering the station.
Marconi’s telegraph brought not only excitement but also new employment to Connemara, as local men who were skilled at cutting, stacking, and drying turf from nearby bogs provided a ready and eager workforce to harvest fuel for the station. (Turf fires have provided heat in Connemara for centuries, and anyone who has visited will recognise the welcoming scent immediately.) Men were also employed to build the Marconi Light Railway for transporting turf from the bog to the station’s furnaces. ADVANCING TECHNOLOGY Ireland inspired Marconi, and he seized the opportunity to grow while in Connemara. In 1911, Marconi opened a second radio station seven miles away in the village of Letterfrack, installing a separate directional antenna system. Much like a walkie-talkie, messages would be sent in one direction for a number of hours, and then stopped to receive messages for a few hours, allowing messages to be sent to and received from different directions. Two antennas were installed: one aligned toward North America, the second facing Clifden. With the help of engineers R. N. Vyvyan and C. S. Franklin, Marconi discovered how to dissipate interference from the local radio signals, leaving the transatlantic lines open. Financial restraints caused the Letterfrack station to close in 1917, but the work done there was monumental. While Marconi’s invention sparked intrigue and garnered popular interest, it also proved essential in nautical life. Jack Phillips, senior radio operator aboard the RMS Titanic, had worked at the Marconi station in Derrygimlagh before taking up assignment on the fateful ship. Twenty-six-year-old Phillips lost his life on the
Clockwise from top left: Engineer B. J. Witt and local workman Peter Guy conduct research near mast No. 3 Currywongaun Hill. Carolyn Lloyd and Alan Joyce re-enact research being done at the Letterfrack station, April 2014. Sheep graze on the Derrygimlagh boglands. The Derrygimlagh landscape offers breathtaking views spotted with tiny lakes and peat bogs.
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The sea fog broke as the plane approached the Irish coast, and Brown spotted a railway below. He scribbled a note telling Alcock to follow it. Fearing their competition had already touched down, Alcock and Brown decided to land in what they believed was an open field; however, it was actually the Derrygimlagh bog, and once the plane’s wheels touched down, they began sinking. On the morning of 15 June 1919, despite their unorthodox landing, Alcock and Brown became the first people to fly continuously across the Atlantic.
Titanic after sending numerous distress messages and refusing to leave his post until the power went out. Phillips sent the SOS and CQD messages still commonly used by Marconi operators, signifying a general call to all ships requesting immediate assistance. Survivors of the tragic event of 15 April 1912 owe their lives to Phillips’s unwavering dedication and to Marconi’s invention. For all his success, Marconi also faced setbacks. Despite the fact that both his mother and his first wife were Irish, he was perceived as owning and operating an English company. During the Irish War of Independence, rebels cut down telegraph lines used for transmitting information for fear the company would contact British troops and destroyed Marconi’s remaining station in July of 1922.
Top left: Vanishing Point at the old Derrygimlagh station power house. Top right: Engineers observe a total solar eclipse on 17 April 1912 from the Clifden Marconi Station. Bottom: The Marconi Company brought welcome employment and excitement to the town of Clifden. At the time, Clifden’s population was 900.
Marconi’s work in Connemara forever changed the way the world communicated, laying the groundwork for the massive communication networks of today. To honor his legacy, wireless stations worldwide observed a two-minute radio silence upon Marconi’s death in Rome on 20 July 1937. ALCOCK AND BROWN As Marconi was changing transatlantic communication, Alcock and Brown were cementing their place in transatlantic transportation. Pilot Captain John ‘Jack’ Alcock heard that the Daily Mail was offering a £10,000 prize to the first aviator to cross the Atlantic in less than seventy-two hours. He employed the help of navigator Lieutenant Arthur Whitten Brown for the journey. The pair travelled to Newfoundland along with a number of other teams, hurriedly inspected their Vickers Vimy bomber plane, and with the aircraft’s bomb bay full of extra fuel, took off at 4.12 p.m. GMT on 14 June 1919. The men endured freezing temperatures, ice, fog, and even a broken airspeed indicator during the journey.
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Marconi station workers, who had tried to wave the pilots away from the bog, ran to their aid. ‘Yesterday we were in America,’ Alcock told them. When the station workers spotted a small bag of mail onboard, the magnitude of the historic event began to set in. With great honor, they sent the message from the Derrygimlagh Marconi Station stating, ‘Vickers Vimy aircraft landed Clifden 8.40 GMT from Saint John’s. Alcock.’ Alcock and Brown remained in Clifden only for the day, but landing at Marconi’s station in Derrygimlagh allowed the news to spread quickly and globally, adding another technological milestone to Connemara history. THE DERRYGIMLAGH SIGNATURE DISCOVERY POINT The recent Derrygimlagh Signature Discovery Point project began much like Marconi’s, with a comprehensive survey of the site. Archaeological digs were conducted, led by Gibbons. Joyce claims the ‘timing was fortunate for the project’ as grant money was available, but without passion, it would never have begun. Visitors are able to enjoy a four-and-ahalf-kilometre boardwalk and new paths featuring breathtaking views of boglands, the nearby lake, and the remnants of the historic site of Marconi’s first station in Connemara. Designers, keeping the Irish weather in mind, planned for covers over three of the six information stations along the tour. These stations will display historic images and information in both English and Irish. The site also features several ‘historioscopes’ designed by Irish artists Anne Cleary and Denis Connolly. The devices are like periscopes; viewers look through and see images of the Marconi station condenser house, the railway, and the workers’ bungalows where they
MARCONI’S WORK IN CONNEMARA FOREVER CHANGED THE WAY THE WORLD COMMUNICATED, LAYING THE GROUNDWORK FOR THE MASSIVE COMMUNICATION NETWORKS OF TODAY.
10 daily services between Galway and Connemara with onward connections to Dublin and Dublin Airport
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originally stood—a creative way to recreate the historic landscape without changing the current terrain. A ‘panoramascope’ accompanies the historioscopes, showing the crash landing of Alcock and Brown’s plane.
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Archaeological expeditions are ongoing, and additional discoveries have been made on-site, including the uncovering of the railway turntable used for bringing turf to the station. The team hopes the site can remain an archaeological school where students can learn about the history of Marconi and the landscape he chose for the station. The Derrygimlagh Signature Discovery Point officially opened in May 2016. Going forward, the chambers will continue to raise funds and support this landmark, with plans to commemorate the hundredth anniversary of Alcock and Brown’s landing in 2019. Marconi, Alcock, and Brown dared to dream, and their achievements continue to inspire innovators and travellers today. If your mobile phone vibrates in your pocket while you walk through Derrygimlagh, thank those who paved the way and helped make that technology possible.
Top: Aerial view of what is now Derrygimlagh Signature Discovery Point from November 2011 Bottom: Marconi wireless technology used to transmit and receive messages
For more information call 091 564164 or see www.citylink.ie WC
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ROAD TRIPPING THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY STO RY A N D P H OTO G RA P H Y BY N I C H O L AS G RU N DY
The beach at Dog's Bay backs directly onto the beach at Gurteen Bay to form a geographical formation known as a tombolo. 190 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
T R A V E L L I N G I S A L L A B O U T T H E J O U R N E Y. Sure, it’s nice to focus on one place for a good period of time, but you’re not exactly embarking on a great expedition when you’re camped out in the same spot. To travel inherently means to cover a distance, and nothing beats the classic road trip when your goal is to conduct a sizeable journey. Hitting the tarmac with four wheels—or two—allows you to visit a huge section of a new region while seeing it all along the way. Among such trips, coastal routes have long been favourites. We’ve all heard of the famous tours mirroring the sea in places like America, Italy, and Australia, but now there’s a new player in town. This rookie route has deserved its own waterfront trail for years, and its turn has finally come. Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way is a newly designated seaside roadway stretching out to a staggering 2,500 kilometres (1,500 miles). Commencing up in County Donegal, the Atlantic Way hugs the jagged coastline as it passes through eight other counties before finishing just short of Cork. Halfway along, however, is where the journey truly becomes majestic as it passes through the Connemara region, arguably the most brilliantly shining facet of the Emerald Isle. My wife and I recently set out to drive along this three-hundred-kilometre section to see precisely what all the fuss is about. Venturing across Joyce Country in north-western County Galway, one is quickly met with fantastic views as the mountains of northern Connemara unfold over the horizon. Our journey began in the tiny village of Leenane at the head of Killary Harbour. The region is, in fact, a glacial fjard (not to be mistaken with fjord), at which mountains, rivers, and the ocean converge, piling atop one another. One of only three glacial depressions in Ireland, Killary is by far the most impressive, with mountains dropping like cliffs into the deep sea. During winter, snow-capped mountains such as Mweelrea emerge from the mist to tower above
the ocean. Meanwhile, at the mouth of the inlet, local fishermen depart Rosroe Pier during all seasons to bring back the region’s famed fare. Only a short distance west of Rosroe, the landscape changes drastically. The area’s first hidden gemstone soon appears: Glassilaun Beach. The beautiful bay represents the start of a series of exquisite white-sand beaches stretching along the Connemara coast. Leaving the secluded turquoise waters, visitors are almost immediately treated to further belts of sand at Renvyle Beach before wheeling southward through Tullycross. Descending around the slopes of Letter Hill (also called Tully Mountain), the craggy Twelve Bens range (also called the Twelve Pins) rises before you, heralding your arrival into the Letterfrack area.
Lettermore reflecting beautifully in Ballinakill Harbour on a still morning. Below: The Wild Atlantic Way is well signposted throughout Connemara. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 191
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B UR N I N G R ED AS IT DR OP P ED FROM SIG HT, THE SETTI NG SU N A N N O UNC ED THE END O F ONE OF THE WORLD ’S G REATEST ST R E TC H ES OF COASTAL DRIVI NG. The village of Letterfrack is a perfect spot to take a break from your journey, offering ample options for delicious dinners and overnight accommodations. I managed to catch a glorious sunrise by running halfway up the side of Diamond Hill in nearby Connemara National Park. From on high, hikers— or runners—are gifted with astounding vistas over the mirror-like waters of Ballinakill Harbour as white Connemara ponies munch away at the hillside. Whether you plod or sprint up for the view, it’s the perfect place for stretching the legs before another day behind the wheel.
Above: Sunsets along the Connemara coast are spectacular year-round. Opposite: The Twelve Bens viewed behind Streamstown Bay along the Sky Road.
The next port of call on our whistle-stop tour was Cleggan. From here, you can opt to catch the local ferry out to the island of Inishbofin, another jewel studding the Connemara coast. Further west, drivers hit a peninsula and loop around remote Aughrus Lough before heading south to Omey Island. Connected by a sandbar only at low tide, Omey is completely cut off from the mainland much of the time. During winter storms, the island’s few residents can become separated for days on end. The tiny landmass is definitely worth a quick visit, but please check local tide charts and weather warnings first, and remember to be cognizant of the time you must return or risk missing the last ferry. Of particular note here is the annual horse race held on the sandy isthmus each summer.
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The largest town in Connemara, Clifden is the perfect spot to sit in the sun and refuel before continuing on your road trip. Jutting out to the west of the town is Sky Road, which loops around the top of a peninsula to offer breathtaking views over the open sea and the area’s many bays. The eleven-kilometre route is one of the many sign-posted attractions along the Wild Atlantic Way. One cannot miss the trademark zigzag of the tall iron markers. The circuit seems rather aptly named when staring up at the words ‘Sky Road’ silhouetted against the gleaming heavens above. Jaunting southwest from Clifden brings you past the extensive Derrygimlagh bog, a flat expanse of typical Irish Atlantic peatland. Seemingly innocuous, the region is actually full of history, including being the landing site of Alcock and Brown’s first transatlantic flight and the location of Marconi’s famed intercontinental wireless station. Continuing through the village of Ballyconneely brings you to Bunowen Bay, a quiet cluster of houses and piers perched atop ferocious seas. At the head of the bay, Doon Hill sits above stunning beaches and, nearby, visitors can take in the eerie sight of the ruins of Bunowen Castle. The remainder of the Wild Atlantic Way generally winds eastward toward the conclusion of Connemara. The next point of note is the region surrounding the village of Roundstone. The closely knit community sits wedged directly between the ocean and the mammoth Errisbeg Mountain. Roundstone is another perfect overnight rest stop, providing plenty of bed-and-breakfasts and offering picturesque sea views. After enjoying a menu brimming with local seafood, we took a short stroll around the town as tricolour buntings fluttered overhead in preparation for St. Patrick’s Day. The towns and villages dotting the coast boast a number of events and festivals each year; we were particularly fortunate enough to pass through during Ireland’s national holiday.
On our final day tracing the twisting seashore of Ireland’s adventurous west, we spun back to the nearby beaches of Dog’s Bay and Gurteen Bay. The two stretches of white sand run parallel to each other, sitting back-to-back to form a tombolo. Avid hikers can ascend the slopes of Errisbeg to gain a glimpse of the unique formation, which almost resembles a palm tree jutting into the ocean. Just above the beach at Dog’s Bay sits the local cemetery, resting peacefully between mountain and sea and offering meditative panoramic views. The region was hit hard by the Irish famine, with many natives departing for America during that time. As such, many in the States can trace their family names back to the multitude of weathered headstones in similar seaside clusters all along the Atlantic coast of Ireland. Even my wife was fascinated to stumble upon proof that her own family originally hailed from precisely this region of Connemara. With the coast to our right, we rolled on toward Galway City, passing through some final highlights to cap off the trip. Wrapping around Cashel Bay, the mountain ranges of the Maumturks and the Twelve Bens loomed over the choppy waters below. Stone bridges passed below while we travelled through Carna, Lettermore peninsula, and Coral Strand near Carraroe. Soon after, Galway Bay emerged as our eyes scanned southward across the waves. We concluded our voyage atop the hill at Silverstrand, just short of Galway City. Burning red as it dropped from sight, the setting sun announced the end of one of the world’s greatest stretches of coastal driving. Meanwhile, jet trails swept across the deep blue skies above, full of passengers on their own journeys high above the Wild Atlantic Way.
Voyager
Keem Bay at Achill Island along the Wild Atlantic Way is one of the most visited beaches in County Mayo and is known to be home of basking sharks. 194 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
The
ULTIMATE Day Trip
A J A U N T I N W E S T P O R T, I R E L A N D
B y LESLEY EMERSON P h o to g ra phy by MATT LOUGHREY
ere’s a piece of friendly advice: don’t miss Westport while you’re in the West! Judged by Irish Times readers a couple of years back as ‘the best place to live’ in Ireland, it must be pretty close to ‘the best place to visit’ as well. Indeed, the route from Connemara is one of the most scenic in the country, passing via the town of Leenane and the shores of Killary Fjord through brooding Doo Lough Valley to Louisburgh and then along the glorious coastline past Croagh Patrick to Westport itself. Travelling from Connemara to Westport is to move from Joyce Country to the land of the pirate queen Grace O’Malley (or Granuaile), who ruled the waters of Clew Bay back in the 1500s. Several of her castles remain dotted along the coast and on Clare Island, which guards the entrance to the great bay. Her descendants, the Browne family, still live in their
Westport House estate on the site of one such castle. The stately home and the Pirate Adventure Park are magnetic attractions, especially for visitingfamilies. Few towns have the charisma and charm of Westport, and fewer still are as well equipped to host visitors and tourists at any time of the year. ‘Small but perfectly formed’ is an apt description of this designated Heritage Town, which barely has a mantelpiece broad enough to carry its many awards: Tidy Towns, Entente Florale, Best Kept Town, and more. Westport is beautifully laid out as befits one of the few planned towns in Ireland. One particularly picturesque area, the Mall, features elegant tree-lined boulevards and Georgian houses flanking the Carrowbeg River. The key directional markers are a delightful town clock standing alongside an old-style telephone
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Right: The city centre of Westport is a charming and bustling hub of shops, pubs, and culture. Photo by Kellie Diane Stewart / Shutterstock Below: A common sight in Connemara, mountain sheep often dot the grasslands surrounding the foothills of Croagh Patrick. Opposite Page: The calm Carrowbeg River flows almost directly through Westport’s city centre and makes for a scenic stroll along the Mall to the north and south. Photo by Richard Semik / Shutterstock
The Reek is a stiff but rewarding climb, offering remarkable views over Clew Bay from Achill to Inishbofin. kiosk and the Octagon, or town square, with an appropriate statue of Saint Patrick standing guard. Streets are generally named with charming logic (Shop Street, Bridge Street) or after one of the Browne family members ( James Street, John’s Row). Handy town maps are available from the Tourist Office, and regular guided walks will introduce you to some of the history of this enchanting town. Strict planning has banned neon signage and maintained a traditional look and feel throughout the town. A quirky combination of boutiques, bike hire firms, galleries, pubs, craft shops, and cafes jostle for attention, many with the owners’ names proudly displayed above the door. The slightest hint of sunshine brings tables and chairs outside for continental-style dining at its best, while permanent street furniture means there’s always somewhere for the weary visitor to take a rest. 196 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Spacious car parks have a modest charge and are tucked away discreetly. On-street parking is free for an hour at a time—though there’s plenty to keep you occupied for much longer. Behind Westport Leisure Park, an outdoor playground for children is free of charge and open all the time. In the case of inclement weather, there are several indoor options, beginning with no fewer than five swimming pools: one in Leisure Park and four in nearby hotels. The cinema is an excellent family-friendly option, along with an indoor play village with a Wild West theme on Altamont Street (also a Browne family reference).
Bicycle parking, bike lockers, and a wide choice of bike hire outlets hint at Westport’s location on the Great Western Greenway, which runs forty-two kilometres to Achill Island. Rental companies will bus you to Achill so you can cycle back at your leisure. If that’s too ambitious, the Old Railway Line Walk, a beautiful two-and-a-half-kilometre walking and cycling trail, goes from the town down to Westport Quay. There is also a cycle lane all the way out to the mountain of Croagh Patrick in Murrisk, eight kilometres from the town. The Reek, as Croagh Patrick is locally known, has been a site of pilgrimage since pre-Christian times and still attracts around twenty-five thousand climbers on Reek Sunday, the last Sunday in July. It’s a stiff but rewarding climb, offering remarkable views over Clew Bay from Achill to Inishbofin. If you still have the energy, a swim at Bertra Beach just down the road is a great way to refresh yourself. Alternatively, there are two pubs near the Reek that offer a different style of refreshment. Look out for the
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Westport is a town of charisma and contrasts. It’s a delight to visit and a highly recommended day trip from anywhere in Connemara. National Famine Monument opposite Croagh Patrick car park. It’s a dramatic, thought-provoking sculpture of a famine ship with stylised skeletons forming the rigging. Appropriately, it stares out over Clew Bay where ships, heavily laden with miserable human cargo, sailed in the 1840s to escape the potato famine.
A view of Clew Bay from Croagh Patrick overlooks Dorinish Island (which once belonged to John Lennon), the village of Murrisk, and Bertra Beach.
Don’t miss out on Westport Quay during your visit. Recently upgraded, it has its own distinct character, and restored grain warehouses now house some excellent shops, restaurants, and pubs. Particularly charming is the Towers Bar and Restaurant with its stunning views. The main entrance to Westport House and the beautiful estate leads onto the Quay area. Walking out to the point is a lovely short stroll along the quayside past the fishing and pleasure boats. Keep an eye out for the Clew Bay Heritage Centre on the way; this small museum houses some wonderful local antiquities. If you’d rather get closer to the bay itself, there are a few options for getting
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afloat. Take a sightseeing tour, go sea angling (for a day or a few hours), or get up-close and personal with the marine life on a kayak tour. Whatever you choose, make sure you have the camera close at hand. Shopaholics will find that Westport punches well above its weight and rewards browsing on the main shopping streets, at the Quay, or in hidden nooks and crannies. Many shops take pride in stocking local and Irish products rather than following the mainstream. Westport is a great place to buy souvenirs, sports or outdoor clothing, and both the wedding outfit and the wedding present! Westport is well known as a foodie destination and has an excellent food festival in late June. The quality of restaurants and cafes is very high, and award plaques are commonplace outside the doors. Keep an eye out for artisan butchers and bakers too, particularly if you have a gourmet picnic in mind. Be sure to try one of the local craft beers, such as those from Mescan Brewery, intriguingly named after none other than Saint Patrick’s personal brewer. The food festival isn’t the only event worth attending in Westport; there seems to be something pretty much every week of the year, including cycling and outdoor events, the intriguing Bike Buffet—where participants cycle between each course of their meal—and the Westport Arts Festival and Rolling Sun Book Festival, both in autumn. There’s music on offer every night in one or more pubs, particularly Matt Molloy’s (owned by the world-famous Chieftains musician) and the Town Hall Theatre, which has an excellent calendar of shows and events. Check with the Tourist Office for details on all local events; it is a treasure trove of information and advice. Westport is a town of charisma and contrasts. It’s a delight to visit and a highly recommended day trip from anywhere in Connemara. Be warned though: once you’ve visited, you could find yourself hooked on its beautiful scenery, year-round calendar of events, and desirable fare!
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DETAILS THAT MATTER T H E I M P O R TA N C E O F H O M E S TA G I N G A N D P R E- L I S T I N G P R E PA R AT I O N S
BY ER I N O D EN P H OTO G RA P HY CO U RT ESY O F COASTA L LUXU RY
The 30-A real estate market in Northwest Florida has experienced a vibrant year. As of this writing, we are in the third week of September and nearing the end of the third quarter. Homes along the Scenic Highway 30-A corridor are selling in less than six months on the market and at an average of 96 percent of their list prices— positive and encouraging statistics for sellers.
When preparing to sell a property, it is critical to be aware of the current demands and trends among buyers. Positioning a home with the prospective buyer in mind lends great opportunity. Nearly 1,200 homes have sold along 30-A this year. Of these sales, 77 percent were newer homes (no more than fifteen years old) and 42 percent were homes five years old or newer. This market data shows the buyer preference for a newer construction home with the most up-todate features, finishes, and interiors. If a home is older, or simply outdated, remodeling and staging both the exteriors and interiors before introducing the residence to the market brings the residence into level market competition. Barb Schwarz, who is credited with inventing staging in the early 1970s, focuses on three key components in getting a property in market-ready condition. To lend the greatest appeal and future selling success, Schwarz urges the seller to address the “three Cs”— cleanliness, clutter reduction, and color. SPARKLING CLEAN
A professional deep clean is essential prior to listing a home, and it is also the lowest-cost preparation you can invest in. Don’t overlook the necessity of regular cleanings throughout your home’s time on the market. WaterSound Beach, Florida
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Be sensitive to the power of smell. Make sure your home is physically clean and also free of any strong odors.
WaterSound Beach, Florida
CLEAR THE CLUTTER
Less is more! Think sparse and open. Even if removing most of your personal items, decor, and family frames gives your home a very impersonal and perhaps boring feel, remember that this allows buyers to visualize the space and floor plan, as well as picture themselves in the home. Clean out all closets, storage rooms, shelves, bookshelves, and nooks, as well as the garage. Just pack the knickknacks up! You are getting a head start on the moving process.
in love with bright, white kitchens and bathrooms. The trend toward white and bright is especially strong in coastal markets. We are entering the final months of the year with anticipation that the current demand for the most attractive coastal homes will continue. Sellers who have spent the time to prepare their beach houses prior to introducing them to market are in a position to capture the current momentum and opportunity.
GO LIGHT, BRIGHT, AND NEUTRAL IN COLOR
Painting the home’s interior walls a decorator’s white or a neutral shade lends a crisp, clean, and new look and also opens up the space. Now is not the time to consider the fun lime green or hot pink. Interestingly, the top four paint companies’ colors of the year for 2016 were all shades of white. Light-colored countertops in kitchens and bathrooms make a huge impact. Features of kitchens and bathrooms are often at the top of buyers’ wish lists. Dark granites are no longer popular, and buyers are
Erin Oden is the principal broker and owner of Coastal Luxury, a boutique brokerage that emphasizes an intimate knowledge of and expertise in the luxury and Gulf-front markets. Erin can be reached at (850) 502-1220 or erin@coastalluxury.com. Or, stop by Coastal Luxury, located directly on 30-A, the first office east of Alys Beach. Search all available properties at CoastalLuxury.com/search.
The Shops at The Hub 30a 31 Hub Lane Watersound, FL 32461 (850) 502-2780 | www.OKOLifestyle.com
FRESH SEAFOOD?
One of the first questions people ask when they visit our area is “How can we be sure we’re getting fresh seafood?” That’s an excellent question. There is a good chance that the seafood you will be offered traveled farther than you did. In the state of Florida, even though we are surrounded by water, more than 90% of the seafood sold this year will be imported from other countries. Throughout the United States, the huge majority of seafood is imported. Most of it is mislabeled. Frozen seafood is sold as “fresh” and imported seafood is sold as “local.” According to Oceana, 93% of fish sold as red snapper is actually some other species. 57% of tuna sold at sushi bars throughout the country is not tuna. Most of the tilapia served in this country comes from Viet Nam and Thailand and much of it is farmed in waters with sewage run-off and the source of feed is pig feces.
Harbor Docks has been selling fish through its wholesale market since 1981. We sell to markets across the United States and Canada. We also sell to select restaurants along the Gulf Coast. Harbor Docks contracts with over 100 commercial boats to insure that we have an adequate supply of fresh fish. We invite you to dine at our restaurants – Harbor Docks, in the heart of Destin, and Camille’s, overlooking the Gulf in Crystal Beach. But we’d also encourage you to try any of the wonderful, independent, local restaurants in our area that are committed to serving Florida seafood. We know who they are, because we sell them their fish.
check our website to find out which restaurants sell certified Gulf-to-Table fish from harbor Docks Seafood market. DES TIN , FL | 850. 837. 2506 | h a r b o r D o c k S .co m S E A F O O D & C O C K TA I L S
Snapper and Tuna stats: http://oceana.org/en/news-media/publications/reports/oceana-study-reveals-seafood-fraud-nationwide Imported seafood stat: http://www.fishwatch.gov/farmed_seafood/outside_the_us.htm Tilapia/pig feces: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-10-11/asian-seafood-raised-on-pig-feces-approved-for-u-s-consumers.html
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BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT: Destin Plastic Surgery
THE WINDOWS to the SOUL The eyes are such a beautiful feature of our faces. That is why we spend so much time making sure they look good. When we meet people, the first thing we notice is their eyes. They give us a preconceived idea of what we can expect from that person. If the person appears tired, angry, sad, or happy, we react accordingly.
William Burden, MD, FACS Founder, Destin Plastic Surgery ABOUT DR. BURDEN Combining a nimble intellect with compassion and empathy, Dr. William Burden embodies the ideal traits of a plastic surgeon. Since establishing Destin Plastic Surgery east of Pensacola, Florida, Dr. Burden has remained a visionary and innovator, using his experience and training to adapt top-ofthe-line technology for the benefit of his patients. At the same time, he’s a down-to-earth, devoted family man who coaches youth basketball and is a hands-on dad. He’s creative, possessing a sense of aesthetics that comes naturally, and, at his core, he’s a people person.
There are many things we can do to improve the appearance of the eyes. Wrinkles around the eyes such as crow’s feet or the furrows between the brows can be softened and sometimes eliminated using Botox. Long, thick eyelashes enhance the appearance of the eyes. Latisse is a product which has been shown to give 50 percent improvement in the thickness, length, and darkness of the eyelashes.
EYELID SURGERY The area around the eye can be broken down into three areas for surgical treatment. Consider the eye as the window, the brow as the curtain rod, and the upper eyelid as the curtain. The brow position and arch can be improved using an endoscopic browlift, a procedure that involves no scar on the forehead or across the scalp. An upper eyelid surgery can be performed to remove the excess skin and the bag of the upper eyelid. The results can be quite dramatic. The most common procedure performed by plastic surgeons is lower eyelid surgery. When you have developed a tired appearance due to bags beneath your eyes, you give the impression of fatigue and age. A lower eyelid operation will remove those bags and improve the overall appearance of the area, giving you a rested, more youthful appearance.
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Latisse is a product which has been shown to give 50 percent improvement in the thickness, length, and darkness of the eyelashes.
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RADIANT SKIN! SKINMEDICA HA 5 SERUM
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One of my favorite products for alleviating dry and dull skin is the new SkinMedica HA 5 serum. This time-released product helps replenish the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid over an eight-hour period. Plus, it works great for all skin types.
The innovative SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum combines patented growth factor with potent antioxidants, peptides, and more to rejuvenate your skin. People always comment on my skin and ask what I use. This product is definitely one of my secrets!
NEOCUTIS JOURNÉE BIO-RESTORATIVE DAY CREAM
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The Neocutis JOURNÉE Bio-restorative Day Cream is a multitasking hydrator that fights the signs of aging with the help of hyaluronic acid and wild yam extract. It protects against the sun’s harmful rays with SPF 30. Plus, it now comes in a balm formula—perfect to prep for cooler winter months.
NEW AT DESTIN PLASTIC SURGERY SkinPen is a medical grade, state-of-the-art microneedling device designed to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and scars on the face and body. It stimulates your skin’s natural ability to repair itself and rebuilds collagen.
Top advantages of your SkinPen Procedure: · SkinPen microneedling is minimally invasive and a quick procedure performed in-office. · Little recovery downtime makes it ideal for a busy lifestyle.
SKINCEUTICALS TRIPLE LIPID REPAIR
Patricia Sgobba Licensed Esthetician
The SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Repair is hands-down one of my favorite moisturizers. It’s great for dry skin, especially during seasonal changes. Even for clients who aren’t dry enough to need it on their face, it makes a wonderful neck and décolleté cream.
· Results are generated from your own skin’s natural collagen and elastin remodeling, improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. · SkinPen may be used on all skin types. · SkinPen is a versatile, precision design tool for use on all parts of the body including face, neck, and décolletage.
For more information about SkinPen and the proven results patients are experiencing, call us at (850) 654-1194. Treatments start at $400 per session.
ABOUT THE ANTI AGING SKINCARE CLINIC The Anti Aging Skincare Clinic of Destin Plastic Surgery—the first medical-grade spa and skincare clinic along the Emerald Coast—is known for offering the best in therapeutic and non-surgical services and skincare products for Pensacola, Destin, and Panama City, Florida clients and beyond. In addition to the treatments to help you revitalize your skin, we are proud to carry a full line of physician-grade skincare products including Obagi, SkinCeuticals, Skinmedica, La-Roche Posay, Neocutis, VitaMedica, and the exclusive line of Trish McEvoy cosmetics. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 205
Christian Siriano, whose gown adorns model Clara McSweeney on our cover, is known for having an Alist front row at his New York Fashion Week runway show each season. We look forward to his next show in February 2017!
June Ambrose, Coco Rocha, and Kelly Osbourne (with Polly!) at Christian Siriano’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway show during New York Fashion Week. Photo by Natasha Harri.
Coco Rocha, Christina Hendricks, Pamela Anderson, Neve Campbell, Jaimie Alexander, and Ashley Graham sit front row at Christian Siriano’s SS17 runway show. Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris, Getty Images.
Musician Charli XCX at the private viewing of 1960s art exhibit You Say You Want a Revolution? during London Fashion Week. The exhibit runs through February 2017. Photo courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
F
ashion week events around the world, from Los Angeles to Sydney, attract celebrities, artists, stylists, buyers, editors, photographers, and fashion gurus alike for runway shows, presentations, and parties. You never know what styles you might find—or who’s wearing them. Whether you’re on the train, walking down the sidewalk, or backstage at a show, inspiration can be found around every corner.
The Who lead singer Roger Daltrey, artist Alan Aldridge, and Saffron Aldridge attend a private viewing of You Say You Want a Revolution? art exhibit during London Fashion Week. Photo courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Designer Rebecca Minkoff and models during New York Fashion Week SS17. Photo by Sam Aronov.
Olivia Palermo attends the Tibi runway show during NYFW SS17. Photo by Lev Radin.
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W Mike and Valerie Thompson, founders of the annual Chi Chi Miguel Throwdown charity event in Destin, Florida, with actor Morgan Freeman. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Award-winning actor and musician John Lloyd Young of Broadway’s Jersey Boys performs at Seagar’s in Destin, Florida, on September 22, 2016, as part of Sinfonia Gulf Coast’s eleventh season. Photo by Kay Phelan.
ith VIE’s headquarters and roots in Northwest Florida, we get to see firsthand why so many celebrities love vacationing and living along the beautiful Gulf Coast. We also have the privilege of seeing all the good that organizations and fund-raisers such as Sinfonia Gulf Coast, the Chi Chi Miguel Throwdown, Emeril Lagasse Foundation, and many more do to help those in need in the local community!
Morgan Freeman at the Chi Chi Miguel Throwdown 2014. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Maestro Demetrius Fuller, John Lloyd Young, and Lynn and Steve Dugas at a private dinner benefiting Sinfonia Gulf Coast in Destin, Florida. Photo by Gerald Burwell.
Emeril and Alden Lagasse at Caliza Pool in Alys Beach, Florida, during VIE’s 2014 Food and Fashion Issue cover shoot. Photo by Romona Robbins.
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La scène
Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik attend the Versus SS17 presentation at London Fashion Week in September 2016. Photo by Darren Gerrish, British Fashion Council.
Backstage with models at the Antonio Berardi SS17 runway show for London Fashion Week. Photo by Sam Wilson, British Fashion Council.
Models Faye Dinsmore and Clara McSweeney with designer Christian Siriano at Ballynahinch Castle in Connemara, Ireland. Photo by Alex Hutchinson.
Whether it’s a photo shoot, a runway show, or a concert, going backstage is always a treat! Take a look at some fashionable moments from this year’s London Fashion Week and a glimpse behind the scenes of our feature photo shoot at Ireland’s Ballynahinch Castle.
Model Faye Dinsmore behind the scenes at VIE’s magical Ireland cover shoot. Photo by Lucy Mashburn.
On the scene at Sophia Webster’s SS17 presentation at London Fashion Week. Photo by Vic Lentaigne, British Fashion Council.
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La scène
SWFW 2016 model judge Hayley Green and emerging designer Cayce Collins. Photo by Jim Clark, Wear in Destin.
Dancers from Smoove Entertainment get the party started while the crowd watches on. Photo by Hayley Green.
K Brooke and Josh Miller. Photo by Romona Robbins.
icking off South Walton Fashion Week 2016 in Northwest Florida, VIE was honored and excited to host the official launch party—the Get Down— at our headquarters on October 5. With a funkadelic 1970s disco theme, catering and decor by Roux 30a, libations from Grayton Beer Company and McNeese Distributing, and endless entertainment, we could not have imagined a better way to get down!
Smoove Entertainment took the floor and brought the heat for the Get Down! Photo by Jim Clark, Wear in Destin.
SWFW Emerging Designer Competition judge Ashley Longshore with the lovely Ophelia Swimwear models are the ultimate #womancrushwednesday. Photo by Hayley Green. 210 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
Nashville’s DJ Rate of the Boom Bap kept the groove going and the dance floor full all night! Photo by Jim Clark, Wear in Destin.
SWFW photographer and videographer, Romona and Shane Reynolds.
Lucy Mashburn and Brenna Kneiss
Looks from Siriano’s Alys Beach presentation included many gowns from his Resort 2017 collection. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Photo by Brenna Kneiss
Photo by Romona Robbins
This year’s SWFW, produced by the Cultural Arts Alliance of Walton County and presented by Visit South Walton, VIE, and ZT Motors, welcomed New York–based designer and CFDA member Christian Siriano as a judge for the Emerging Designer Competition. Siriano also held a special presentation at Caliza Pool and a trunk show at the Alys Shoppe in Alys Beach, and ended SWFW with a finale runway show at Grand Boulevard on Saturday, October 8.
SWFW 2013 Model Competition winner, Emme Martin, walks for Siriano. Photo by Brenna Kneiss.
Photo by Brenna Kneiss
VIE Editor-in-Chief Lisa Burwell and Christian Siriano. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Members of the VIE team with founders Lisa and Gerald Burwell at Grand Boulevard. Photo by Haileigh Grinkmeyer.
Emerging Designer Competition judge and featured designer Nicole Paloma with daughter Laine. Photo by Marscha Cavaliere.
T Emerging Designer Competition judge and featured designer Amanda Valentine with Grand Boulevard director of marketing, Stacey Brady. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Sheila Goode Model of the Year Competition judge Carol Wilson with models backstage at SWFW. Photo by Romona Robbins.
he talented pool of emerging designers and models at South Walton Fashion Week 2016 made this year’s event one to remember, as did the premier retail runway presentations. Since its inception in 2013, SWFW has grown to include new venues such as 30Avenue and 560 Grand Boulevard, celebrity judges, and endless class and style! The three-night runway extravaganza is coordinated by the Cultural Arts Alliance and Monark Events.
SWFW 2015 Emerging Designer Competition winner Tieler James and Mara Clark of Wear in Destin. Photo by Jim Clark, Wear in Destin.
Brad Walsh, Christian Siriano, and Ashley Longshore. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Nicolette and Brigette Burwell. Photo by Haileigh Grinkmeyer.
La scène
Sheila Goode Model of the Year Competition judges Carol Wilson and Carlo Pieroni watch on at the Grand Boulevard runway shows. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Sheila Goode Models of the Year, Bella DeLeón and Jordan Canamar, with Christian Siriano and Emerging Designer Competition winner Richelle Valenzuela. Photo by Romona Robbins.
Celebrity judges for the 2016 SWFW Emerging Designer Competition included headliner Christian Siriano, Ashley Longshore, Amanda Valentine, Jeanette Johnson, and Nicole Paloma, and Sheila Goode Model of the Year Award judges were Jenni Lubo, Becca Tilley, Carlo Pieroni, Carol Wilson, and Hayley Green. Green is the daughter of late photographer Sheila Goode, for whom the model competition was named last year. The judges had a tough choice, but in the end they chose the incredibly talented Bella DeLeón and Jordan Canamar as the Sheila Goode Models of the Year presented by VIE and Richelle Valenzuela of Pasaporte Company as the winner of the Emerging Designer Competition presented by Silver Sands Premium Outlets.
Sheila Goode Model of the Year Jordan Canamar walks the runway in designs by Richelle Valenzuela. Photo by Jim Clark, Wear in Destin.
Emerging Designer Competition judge Amanda Valentine (center) with Hillary Fosdyck and Briane O’Dell of Monark Events
Emerging Designer Competition judge Ashley Longshore (center) with Beth Bailey Hawkins and Cultural Arts Alliance Executive Director Jennifer Steele. Photo by Haileigh Grinkmeyer.
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214 | NO V EMBE R / D E C E MB E R 2016
IF ITS COLOR
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A Snapshot of Our Travels This Year A year ago, we were at New York City’s United Palace Theatre shooting a glamorous cover with Broadway and classical music stars. Since then, our publishing team’s travels have been full of adventure, beautiful castles, exciting photo shoots, and new friends. 1. Christian Siriano and Brad Walsh at Ireland’s Ashford Castle 2. The VIE/Connemara Life team after our enchanting cover photo shoot at Ballynahinch Castle 3. The team with Siriano and Walsh at Ashford Castle 4. Post-cover shoot team photo at Siriano and Walsh’s country home for our September/October 2016 issue 5. Kristin Chenoweth and photographer Carlo Pieroni at the United Palace Theatre in October 2015 Thank you all for making this year magical and for helping kick off 2017 as VIE’s biggest year ever!
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