THE PEARL MAKES a STATEMENT in ROSEMARY BEACH, FLORIDA
A MODERN-DAY MASTERPIECE
THE LOUVRE ABU DHABI THE AMERICAN DREAM
JAY & CHRISTY CASHMAN’S IRISH CASTLE
KILKEA CASTLE Is RESTORED
2 COLA
THE PRISTINE BEACHES of
COLA
®
PENSACOLA to APALACHICOLA & EVERYTHING in BETWEEN
FIFTY SHADES of WHITE CRUISING the ARCTIC CIRCLE
DESTINATION TRAVEL February 2018
DE SIGN DIS T R IC T — 175 N.E. 4 0 T H S T R EE T
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A P PA R E L ,
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SHE NOT ONLY LISTS YOUR PROPERTY—SHE ALSO SELLS IT! All listed and sold by Linda Miller in the second half of 2017:
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ROSEMARY BEACH
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427 E WATER STREET FABULOUS GULF VIEWS – OFF OF GULF Listed: $7,500,000 | Sold: Under Contract
267 W WATER STREET GREAT INVESTMENT PROPERTY Listed: $5,995,000 | Sold: $5,575,000
95 ROSEMARY AVENUE GREAT RENTAL PROPERTY WITH POOL Listed: $1,995,000 | Sold: $1,795,000
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Gulf Front Scenic Hwy 30A
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155 E KINGSTON ROAD ONE LEVEL WITH POOL IN COURTYARD Listed: $1,995,000 | Sold: $1,795,000
10254 E CO HWY 30A #23W GULF FRONT CONDO AT HIGH POINTE RESORT Listed: $899,000 | Sold: $803,000
290 SEABREEZE BOULEVARD 4 BEDROOM/4 BATH WITH BEACH ACCESS Listed: $695,000 | Sold: $652,000
Linda Miller is the Broker of Rosemary Beach Realty, which topped Florida’s Scenic Highway 30A market in 2016 with $250 million in sales in a single office. With 19 years of sales experience, she has been the number one agent since 2015 with over $180 million in sales, and since 2016 has sold $135 million YTD on 30A. Miller brokered the largest sale ever on 30A at 24 South Briland in Rosemary Beach for $12.5 million and was the area’s number one agent in listings in 2016. Linda Miller has generated over $432 million in career sales with an average of $2,340,000 per sale. LindaMillerLuxury.com
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In this issue On the Cover
Upon VIE’s inception in 2008, our founders dubbed our home region COLA 2 COLA®, short for “Pensacola to Apalachicola.” In this issue, we bring readers
44
EXPLORE THE BUSY STREETS AND CANALS OF AMSTERDAM AS BROTHERS ANDREW AND PAUL MARSHALL LEAD YOU ON A TOUR OF THE CITY’S CULINARY DELIGHTS AND ITS HISTORICAL SIGHTS, SUCH AS THE DE L’EUROPE AMSTERDAM (ABOVE). PHOTO BY KOEN SMILDE PHOTOGRAPHY
back to our roots with an in-depth travel guide highlighting all the amazing things we love about the area. For one thing, there is no shortage of incredible acc ommodations along the Gulf Coast of Northwest Florida. One such place, The Pearl in Rosemary Beach, Florida, is a boutique hotel with well-appointed guest
FEATURE 82
VOYAGER 73
The Pristine Beaches of COLA 2 COLA®: Pensacola to Apalachicola and Everything in Between
74 Inspired Excursions: The New Way to Travel
rooms, a restaurant, a rooftop bar, a
LE MONDE 29
private pool, private beach access, and
30 Revitalized Poland: A Walk Down Memory Lane
more. Walking the charming streets of Rosemary Beach, visitors feel as if they’ve been transported to a place where life is simpler—and simply more beautiful. Photo by Brenna Kneiss
PUBLISHED BY
34 The Louvre Abu Dhabi: A ModernDay Masterpiece
BON APPÉTIT! 44 A Taste of Amsterdam 54 A Tasty Tale of Two Cities: Food Tours of Paris and Parma
C’EST LA VIE CURATED COLLECTION: THE TRAVELER 60
108 Fifty Shades of White 114 The Destination Is Everywhere 118 A Love Story: Kilkea Castle Is Restored 124 The Joy of River Cruising in Europe 132 New Mexico’s Ski Resorts 138 The Wonders of Spain: Beyond Paella and Flamenco 144 Waltzing Off to Vienna
LA SCÈNE 150 AU REVOIR! 161
L’AMOUR 65 66 Casting Spells TheIdeaBoutique.com info@theideaboutique.com
70 C’est la VIE Curated Collection: Special Valentine’s Day Edition
V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 13
CREATIVE TEAM FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF LISA MARIE BURWELL Lisa@VIEmagazine.com
FOUNDER / PUBLISHER GERALD BURWELL Gerald@VIEmagazine.com
EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR JORDAN STAGGS Jordan@VIEmagazine.com
CHIEF COPY EDITOR MARGARET STEVENSON CONTRIBUTING WRITERS SALLIE W. BOYLES, GREG CAYEA, SLOANE STEPHENS COX, ANTHEA GERRIE, STEVE L ARESE, ANDREW MARSHALL, CAROLYN O’NEIL, TORI PHELPS GILLY PICKUP, INK A PIEGSA-QUISCHOTTE, SUZANNE POLL AK, PAT RICHARDSON
ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY ART DIRECTOR TRACEY THOMAS Tracey@VIEmagazine.com
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR LUCY YOUNG SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER RINN GARL ANGER GRAPHIC DESIGNERS OLIVIA PIERCE, HANNAH VERMILLION
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS ALEFBET, BYJENG, BRETT BULTHUIS, KYLIE CHENN, MARC DOMAGE, BENOIT FORTRYE, HILDE FOSS, EDDY GALEOTTI, JESSE GRANT STEVEN GRAY, ROL AND HALBE, STEVE JENNINGS, VARTAN KELECHIAN, ASAF KLIGER, BRENNA KNEISS, PAUL MARSHALL MIKE MARSL AND, CAROLYN O’NEIL, MARK PALLERMO, PEALIKU, CHRISTOPHER POLK, PETER RIGAUD, ALBERTO E. RODRIGUEZ MARIOL A ANNA S, SAMOT, SORBIS, JEFF SPICER, CHRISTIAN STEMPER, BRUNO STERNBERGER, THOMAS SUNDERL AND TRABANTOS, WANGBIN6007, KIMBERLY WHITE, GETT Y IMAGES, IN GREEN, JEFF DOW PHOTOGRAPHY KOEN SMILDE PHOTOGRAPHY, L A BOLLEUR, MARIA CAVALI FOTOGRAFIE, S-F, SHUTTERSTOCK
ADVERTISING, SALES, AND MARKETING DIGITAL MARKETING DIRECTOR MEGHN HILL CREATIVE STYLIST SUVA ANG-MENDOZA ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ABIGAIL RYAN BRAND AMBASSADOR LISA MARIE BURWELL Lisa@VIEmagazine.com
BRAND MANAGER RINN GARL ANGER Corinne@VIEmagazine.com
DISTRIBUTION MANAGER TIM DUTROW DISTRIBUTION COORDINATOR SHANNON QUINL AN
VIE is a registered trademark. All contents herein are Copyright © 2008–2018 Cornerstone Marketing and Advertising, Incorporated (Publisher). All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without written permission from the Publisher. VIE is a lifestyle magazine and is published twelve times annually on a monthly schedule. The opinions herein are not necessarily those of the Publisher. The Publisher and its advertisers will not be held responsible for any errors found in this publication. The Publisher is not liable for the accuracy of statements made by its advertisers. Ads that appear in this publication are not intended as offers where prohibited by state law. The Publisher is not responsible for photography or artwork submitted by freelance or outside contributors. The Publisher reserves the right to publish any letter addressed to the editor or the Publisher. VIE is a paid publication. Subscription rates: Printed magazine – One-year $29.95; Two-year $54.95. Subscriptions can be purchased online at www.VIEmagazine.com.
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Editor’s Note
It’s All about the
JOURNEY
Anticipation. What about it? Simply reading the word can be enough to stir excitement about what is yet to come. In both my personal and my professional life over the years, I have planned a lot of trips and I’d have to say that the anticipation of a journey is almost as exciting as the journey itself.
Twenty-five years ago, this Northerner from Boston moved south, and, as the saying goes, the rest is history. It was a bold and scary decision to trade the comfort of everything I knew and loved—my family, friends, and urban city life—for a new life in the barely known coastal village of Seaside, Florida, as the town’s first merchants association marketing director. I built amazing new friendships, met and married my husband of twenty-one years, made a rewarding livelihood in marketing and publishing, and had so many amazing experiences. And I met many others who, like me, hadn’t waited for retirement before flying south. A bohemian spirit abides here; the area is filled with artists, renegades, craftsmen, individualists, and entrepreneurs. There are so many amazing people doing good things for their communities and beyond.
VIE cofounders Lisa and Gerald Burwell at the Stories with Heart & Soul Tour Boston event on November 28, 2017, at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. Photo by Rinn Garlanger
When I look back at my decision to move, I did it knowing there were no guarantees. As is the case with all new ventures, the beginning is always exciting—but it is typically very hard as well. Transition and change are not things I’m fond of, but who is? I operated on complete faith that I would adapt and come to feel truly at home in my new setting. The choice I made a quarter century ago is one that I will never regret, as it positioned me, both personally and professionally, in a unique vantage point that I could never have imagined. What this, and so many other life experiences, has afforded me is the luxury of patience and the ability to embrace change, as nothing moves fast enough for a type A personality like mine. We’ve all heard that life is about the experiences along the journey—not about completing the journey itself. I can relate to this, but there have been so many times when I have wished that I could just get to my destination. And, haven’t we all felt that way? This is what the journey of life is all about. The process teaches us patience, perseverance, and persistence.
preserved, as if in a time capsule, unscathed by the ravages of progress. It is near and dear to my heart— as it is to so many who have been coming here for generations. But more importantly for me, it is also the birthplace of VIE: our publishing headquarters is located in the quaint coastal hamlet of Grayton Beach, Florida. With the new year upon us, I pray for peace and unity. And if you want to know what it feels like to live in paradise, this native Bostonian invites y’all to come to Northwest Florida for all the goodness life has to offer. Always stay humble and kind.
Our inaugural Destination Travel issue is chock-full of exotic places—both near and far. It is my hope that you’ll end up putting some, if not all, of them on your bucket list. COLA 2 COLA® (Pensacola to Apalachicola), our travel feature spotlight, is one of the most magical stretches of coastline in the world, and its pristine beaches are rated among the best. This expanse of over two hundred miles of sugar-white sand along the Gulf of Mexico in Northwest Florida was a hidden gem for many years. But the secret is out, as is evidenced by the area’s exponential growth this past decade and by what is projected to come. Not only is it a beautiful place to both live and visit, but it’s also a place with a Southern-inspired way of life that has been
To Life!
—Lisa Marie Founder/Editor-In-Chief V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 21
The Creatives We collaborate with talented photographers, writers, and other creatives on a regular basis, and we’re continually inspired by how they pour their hearts and souls into their crafts. Follow these creatives on social media and don’t forget to check out our account, @viemagazine.
honestly, they can be stylish! I am so in love with mine (yes, I have multiple) that I have actually thought about starting my own line. Trust me, you will want to buy one. A very close second is a jar of peanut butter, which is kind of like my battery pack! I am the type of person who likes to go, go, go and needs that extra boost of energy—which is only one delicious spoonful away. OLIVIA PIERCE Graphic Designer @olivia_pierce
FOR THIS ISSUE, WE ASKED THE CREATIVES: WHAT IS ONE THING YOU NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT?
The one thing I must travel with is an appetite. Since I am somewhat of a picky eater, I have to really push myself not to order the same thing at every restaurant. Traveling is the perfect way to get out of my comfort zone and try new items. Sitting around the table and sharing foods with travel companions or complete strangers is a great way to bond and to be entertained. A meal can be an art form, an expression of love, or an excuse to get away. Whatever the reason or the location, treat yourself !
THE RIGHT MUSIC CAN TURN AN ORDINARY WALK INTO AN EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCE, EVEN THOUGH YOU MIGHT HAVE SEEN THE PLACE BEFORE.
JORDAN STAGGS
GREG CAYEA
Managing Editor
Writer, “The Destination Is Everywhere” @gregcayea
@jojomonster12
Headphones! I love having the option of listening to music when I’m on a plane or in any public transit, or even when I’m walking through a park (provided it’s safe to do so) or sitting and looking at a beautiful view. I’m one of those people who constantly has a song in her head, almost as though my life has a soundtrack. It’s not that I want to be antisocial (at least not all the time). Music can change the way you view the world. Sometimes, a song can remind you of a special moment in your travels. The right music can turn an ordinary walk into an extraordinary experience, even though you might have seen the place before. Just don’t forget to be aware of your surroundings. Rock on, world travelers!
KYLIE CHENN Founder, Acanela Expeditions @kytrisha / @acanelaexpeditions
My travel pouch is definitely my number one item! I have both the necklace and the fanny-pack versions, and either one is seriously the most wonderful (and useful) item you can bring in your suitcase! It holds all my important items: passport, phone, credit cards, camera lenses, and gum (another very important item I never travel without). The pouch can be worn around your neck like a small purse or around your waist (fanny pack–style), depending on the look you are going for. People think fanny packs are lame, but
Style. For example, even though it adds tremendous weight and takes up far too much room, I would never travel without the manuscript of my upcoming book. Nothing gives me a sense of pride/comfort like sitting down at a café in a foreign country and yanking out four hundred pages from my backpack. Everyone stares at me and wonders what in the world it could be, who in the world I might be—and it’s awesome. Tie a bandana around my neck and I’m good to go. Bandanas are multipurpose: On the bus, when someone is having a coughing fit, I bring it up above my mouth to block the in-coming germs. On hikes, I use it to tie my hair up. In the wind, I use it as a scarf. Traveling styled as a sophisticated vagabond is the only way. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 23
SWIMWEAR + LIFESTYLE
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MIKOH • VITAMIN A • MARA HOFFMAN • ACACIA • FRANKIES • L*SPACE • FOR LOVE & LEMONS • MELISSA ODABASH WILDFOX • POUPETTE ST BARTH • TULAROSA • SPIRITUAL GANGSTER • FAITHFUL • HELEN JON • CAMILLA
La conversation
SOMETHING TO TALK ABOUT WE LOVE TO COMMUNICATE AND INTERACT WITH OUR READERS! AND WE LOVE IT EVEN MORE WHEN THEY PROUDLY SHARE THEIR STORIES AND POSE WITH VIE FOR A CLOSE-UP! THAT’S WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT: SHARING, LOVING, AND BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS. WE THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH AND WE APPRECIATE YOU!
@mccaskillandcompany Have you checked out @viemagazine’s December 2017 issue? We are loving the feature on @ericacourtneyjewels.
@BstnPRGuy Thank you @viemagazine for your glamorous cover story on Boston. Special shout out and thanks to @TiffanyLopinsky for including @BrassicaKitchen regarding “Where to Eat” when in town. @kytrisha Sometimes when reading a magazine in your bed, you find one of your photos from your latest expedition to Africa . . . #dreaming #drooling #acanelaexpeditions
@vintagepearlcrosses So honored to have my cross selected. Thank you, Beau Interiors, for always supporting my work.
LET’S TALK!
@hotelbloomsbury Thanks so much @viemagazine for the fabulous feature in “The Villages of London.”
@kilkeacastle We want to thank @viemagazine for including Bostonians Jay and @cashman.christy in their segment on Boston natives shining on the red carpet and beyond. #ireland #irishcastle #castleexperience #castle #castlewedding
Send VIE your comments and photos on our social media channels or by e-mailing us at info@viemagazine.com. We’d love to hear your thoughts. They could end up in the next La conversation!
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V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 25
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Le monde
The colorful facade of Copenhagen’s seventeenth-century waterfront, canal, and entertainment district, Nyhavn Photo by Pealiku / Shutterstock
Le monde GOES ROUND AND ROUND
Sometimes the path is beaten for a reason. Copenhagen is Denmark’s capital and most populous city, and it’s a well-known tourist destination in Europe. But don’t let that stop you from planning a trip there! This Nordic gem between the Baltic and North Seas attracts visitors because of its scenic harbor, charming canals, impressive cultural and historic landmarks, and numerous award-winning restaurants.
V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 29
A 30 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
W A L K
D O W N
M E M O R Y
L A N E
Le monde
“
BY ANTHEA GERRIE
“Our people came from Lodge,” my father used to say, proudly mispronouncing the name of what is now Poland’s third-largest city by population. Yet I had no desire to visit the old country until my interest was piqued by hearing that the place where my ancestors sweated over sewing machines had metamorphosed into the country’s movie capital (Polanski and others studied at the renowned film school).
Le monde
few years passed; with so many world-class European cities to visit, Lodz (pronounced “Woodge”)—indeed all of Poland— remained low on my travel radar. But the invitation I could not refuse was from a stylish boutique hotel within the former sweatshop itself; an opportunity to feast and drink vodka on the spot where my grandparents toiled a century ago for slave wages. Well, they do say living well is the best revenge. Lodz is both different and the same, I discovered on my sentimental and at times bittersweet journey. The sweatshops have gone, replaced by cafés and art galleries as well as warehouse-style hotel rooms, but the industrial redbrick shell remains. The nineteenth-century factories of Izrael Poznanski and his rival, Karl Scheibler, still tower over what used to be known as “the city of a thousand chimneys,” now reinvented as an entertainment hub. Manufaktura is what they call the Poznanski complex now, its landscaped center boasting a carousel, a zip line, and even a bungee jumping station. Above: Tourists gather near the monument dedicated to General Tadeusz Kosciuszko in Freedom Square in Lodz. Previous page: Passersby enjoy a sunny Sunday afternoon on Piotrkowska Street in Lodz. Photos by Mariola Anna S / Shutterstock 32 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Despite the fact its gentrification is ongoing, today’s Lodz is well worth a visit, especially for the descendants of expats who escaped the city. From the exquisite new railway station whose diamond-patterned ceiling throws fantastic shadows onto the concourse to the futuristic science and technology center EC1, this is a town bent on prosperity through reinvention. Motivated by the desire to see where my great-grandmother lived after her children emigrated to London, Paris, and New York, and the plot where my great-grandfather is buried—all documented by impeccable records kept of the city’s turn-of-the-century
residents—I took a trip just a few blocks from the smart Vienna House Andel’s Lodz hotel in the Poznanski complex to Baluty. It’s the slum into which country dwellers poured in the 1880s, drawn by what Nobel Prize–winning author Wladyslaw Reymont called The Promised Land. Apart from the opportunity to slave for minimal pay, it was no such thing; the tenements built for the textile workers were the diametric opposite of the Poznanski palace, which also overlooks the factory. Izrael spared
“
The sweatshops have gone, replaced by cafés and art galleries as well as warehouse-style hotel rooms, but the industrial redbrick shell remains.
no expense creating fabulous rooms with carved and gilded ceilings for himself and his family. But today’s Poland being what it is, rising determinedly from two centuries of foreign rule and the ashes of twentieth-century destruction, it will not be long before Baluty boasts vintage shops and cool bars within tenements like my great-grandmother’s old apartment house. I was grateful she left for London twenty-five years before the adjacent market square
Stumbling through the tree roots that dot the alleys off the grand central avenue, I discovered that the maps which indicate ancestors’ plots so precisely on the cemetery website do not lead you instantly to the right grave. It’s necessary to pay the cemetery keeper to do some detective work—in my case hacking through the impenetrable jungle, only to find the gravestone matching the one in my old photograph in shape was for a different Goldberg than my great-grandfather Gierszon. But at least I had attempted to pay my respects. For those with no ancestor-hunting duties, today’s Lodz can be an entirely joyous place, underpinned by its beautiful broad, partially pedestrianized main boulevard, Piotrkowska Street, which runs for more than three miles. It’s the focus of dining and nightlife, packed on both sides with restaurants, bars, and cafés spilling on to the pavements in summer. The soup kitchens of old may have gone, but you can get an excellent bowl of borscht and a decent fillet of carp, bream, or herring nearly anywhere.
became a place of public execution (it is now a park). Baluty was the center of the Lodz Ghetto, Poland’s second largest, into which Jews from all over Europe were herded before being murdered or deported during World War II. To give credit to the city fathers, in 2004 they built Survivors Park to commemorate the Jews who escaped death and the locals who helped them. It’s a place of hope, unlike the gloom and doom of Radegast, the wooden station revived by the Nazis specifically for deportation purposes. Original cattle wagons of the period still stand on the platform, a chilling reminder of Lodz’s darkest days. Groups pour in from all over the world to see if their ancestors’ names are on deportation lists meticulously maintained by the Nazis. More poignant are the display cases full of brooches, buttons, and other ephemera retrieved from victims’ bodies; the first deportees were killed in their wagons at a depot just a few miles down the line.
Piotrkowska Street is a visual as well as a culinary joy, with handsome buildings lining pavements punctuated by seated bronze statues of the city’s good and great, including pianist Artur Rubinstein, depicted at a grand embellished piano with wings. Street art is a big deal, with spectacular murals everywhere, even in impoverished Baluty. A most striking example stands opposite OFF Piotrkowska, a shopping and dining complex inside an industrial shell and courtyard that is somewhat less Disneyfied than Manufaktura. Andel’s Hotel is the obvious place to stay in Lodz, with spacious, brightly decorated rooms nodding to the city’s textile history, a spa, a sky bar overlooking Manufaktura, and an excellent restaurant. At least one night should be spent
Left: Hotel Bristol, a historic neo-Renaissance-style luxury hotel near the Presidential Palace on Krakowskie Przedmiescie in Warsaw Photo by alefbet / Shutterstock Below: Lodz’s elegant Piotrkowska Street, known for its shops, restaurants, and historic buildings
While the Jewish Cemetery has poignant rows of graves which recall veterans’ cemeteries in the United States, it’s also a place of great beauty, which I discovered when seeking out my great-grandfather’s grave. This landmark of funerary architecture boasts magnificent gravestones and mausoleums in contrast to the rows of simple markers. A succession of empty pits commemorates the last survivors of the Lodz Ghetto, forced to dig their own graves before escaping death when the Nazis beat a hasty retreat as the Russians advanced on the city. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 33
Le monde dining on Piotrkowska, and an interesting choice there is Klub Spadkobiercow, a fine dining establishment that now occupies the former home of banker Maximilian Goldfeder, who lived above the bank. Although I have no family connections in Warsaw, it seemed impossible to leave the country without also checking out Poland’s historic capital. And just as I had encountered a masterstroke of reinvention in Lodz, Warsaw proved a masterpiece of reconstruction. If the city remains undersung on the international tourism scene, it’s probably due to the mistaken perception that the fabulous architecture that earned Warsaw the nickname Paris of the East has disappeared.
Opposite: A panoramic view of Warsaw on a summer day Below: A memorial at the entrance to the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, located on the site of the former Warsaw Ghetto Photo by trabantos / Shutterstock
It’s true that Hitler razed the city to the ground after its citizens rose up in a futile attempt to overthrow the occupying Nazis, but astonishingly, the historic center was painstakingly rebuilt by the townspeople, brick by brick. The result is a city which combines the enchanting old town depicted in eighteenth-century paintings with a vibrant, futuristic new downtown. Both make an attractive base to stay and are equally central; however, the most happening district, Praga, is on the far side of the Vistula River, which bisects Warsaw. Praga has much in common with the eastern neighborhoods of Berlin, run-down but rapidly gentrifying, with low rents that attract creative types who are opening restaurants, bars, and clubs. Talking of restaurants, Warsaw may be unique in having both seriously haute cuisine and bargain-basement lunches in its repertoire; the latter are served at the “milk bars,” which came up in the postwar era to feed impoverished locals during the grim years of Communist rule. So-called because they specialized in vegetable and dairy dishes, they retain a retro fascination and are embraced by those seeking a
decent meal for a few dollars. But who needs budget cuisine when gourmet delights are incredibly affordable? Visitors flock to celebrity chef Magda Gessler’s Restauracja Polka in the Old Town for traditional specialties downed with vodka. I dined for a song on beef tartare, which the country claims as its own invention, and roast duck at the Marconi Restaurant in the Bristol Hotel, itself a tourist attraction as one of the few remaining original buildings in downtown Warsaw. The Bristol, a triumph of 1901 architecture, is beautifully situated on the Royal Route that links the historic Old Town (its Market Square boasts a statue of the Mermaid of Warsaw, the city’s emblem, at its center) with downtown attractions like the Chopin Museum. Here, I gazed upon the composer’s piano, brought home to his birthplace after his death in Paris, and descended into the basement to hear waltzes, études, and mazurkas played through stateof-the-art headphones, a pursuit which will detain music lovers in the museum for hours. But even those who don’t have time to get there can enjoy Chopin’s music, which was strictly banned in Nazi Warsaw. His most famous works now play automatically for all who sit upon the information benches dotting the Royal Route. As for other museums, Warsaw is most distinguished today by the world-class POLIN Museum, paying multimedia tribute to a millennium of Jewish life in Poland. You don’t have to be Jewish to take in the story of a nation whose fortune has risen and fallen over the centuries, surviving occupation, partition, and near extinction, with tragedy befalling so many trapped in the wrong place at the wrong time. But Poles are resilient, and we descendants of the diaspora are testament to that. Those who stayed to witness independence and once-unimaginable prosperity are also warm and hospitable—and terrific cooks. While the zloty remains such a bargain, it really is time to visit the old country and embrace its survival against all the odds.
Anthea Gerrie is based in the UK but travels the world in search of stories. Her special interests are architecture and design, culture, food, and drink, as well as the best places to visit in the world’s great playgrounds. She is a regular contributor to the Daily Mail, the Independent, and Blueprint. 34 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
WHERE TO STAY IN WARSAW Warsaw’s top luxury hotel pick has to be the Bristol (HotelBristolWarsaw.pl) for its history, plush home comforts, and superb location on the Royal Route. A good midrange choice is the ultramodern Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (RadissonBlu. com/en/hotel-warsaw) in the financial district (ask for one of the refurbished rooms on the top floor). Praga has a few good budget-priced options, such as the hip Hostel Krokodyl (HostelKrokodyl.com). If overnighting in Lodz, there’s no better choice than the Vienna House Andel’s Lodz (AndelsLodz.pl), a fabulous conversion from factory to designer hotel right inside Manufaktura.
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Le monde
The Louvre
ABU DHABI A M O D E R N - DAY M AS T E R P I EC E B y To r i P h e l p s Photography courtesy of Louvre Abu Dhabi
Left: A breathtaking interior view of Louvre Abu Dhabi, featuring the masterfully designed dome. Photo by Roland Halbe, courtesy of Louvre Abu Dhabi
If you’ve already checked the Louvre off your bucket list, get ready to put it back on. A second Louvre, in glitzy Abu Dhabi, is quickly becoming a “must” for art lovers and culture vultures who aren’t afraid of a little paradigm shift. The Louvre’s new iteration is the result of a groundbreaking cross-cultural collaboration between France and Abu Dhabi. Its public debut on November 11, 2017, ten years in the making, gave the world its first peek inside Louvre Abu Dhabi, which was designed by renowned architect Jean Nouvel. Part of a cultural district on Saadiyat Island that will soon boast the Zayed National Museum and Guggenheim Abu Dhabi as neighbors, Louvre Abu Dhabi is raising the bar regarding scope, design, and mission.
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T Below: Some of the pieces on display in Gallery 10: A Modern World? Opposite left: Leonardo da Vinci’s La Belle Ferronnière, on loan from Musée du Louvre in Paris. Opposite right: The Great Vestibule introduces the story of humanity as told by the twelve galleries at Louvre Abu Dhabi. Photos by Marc Domage, courtesy of Louvre Abu Dhabi
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he intent behind Louvre Abu Dhabi was to develop the first universal museum in the Arab world—a space for literal and figurative dialogue between cultures in a land where meeting and exchange is a centuries-old tradition. Not only does it feature works of art from around the world, but they are curated in ways that allow viewers to consider the give-and-take within civilizations since the beginning of time. “In a complex, multinarrative world, these ideas are more important than ever,” says Manuel Rabaté, director of Louvre Abu Dhabi. “By exhibiting works from diverse cultures in the same space, our curation shows the interconnectedness of different ideologies, aesthetics, and artistic techniques.” This strategy makes it impossible to escape the similarities between Sumerian priest-kings and Egyptian pharaohs, for example, or mutual influences between China and the Islamic World. But it’s also impossible to ignore that a variation in the Louvre’s physical location, from Paris to the Arabian Peninsula, brings with it a shift in East–West perspective. As JeanFrançois Charnier, scientific and cultural director of
T H E M USE U M B UI L DI NG ITSELF IS AN ARCHIT EC T U R AL M AS T E R P I EC E TE E M I NG WI T H UN I Q U E E L E M E N T S , S TA R T I N G WI T H I TS M AS S IV E D O M E . Agence France-Muséums, points out, the concept of the West as the center of history and civilization from the Renaissance on is incomplete at best. “Western modernity is reconsidered here in Abu Dhabi, above all in light of what the British anthropologist Jack Goody called the ‘theft of history’ perpetrated by the West, which believed itself to be ‘modern,’ at the expense of other civilizations, which were supposedly not,” he says. Louvre Abu Dhabi tells its story with an ever-expanding collection of six hundred artworks and artifacts spanning human history. Arranged into twelve chapters across the museum’s galleries, the time line starts with
Gallery 1: The First Villages, which highlights relics from the Near East, East Africa, China, and Central America circa 10,000 BCE. By the time guests reach Gallery 12: A Global Stage, they will have traveled from antiquity to the twenty-first century and its preoccupation with technology and identity. The museum building itself is an architectural masterpiece teeming with unique elements, starting with its massive dome. Measuring nearly six hundred feet in diameter, the dome covers much of the Louvre Abu Dhabi’s fifty-five-building complex and is visible from the Abu Dhabi city center. Adding to the museum’s awe factor is its island setting. Surrounded by water, it’s reachable only by boat and uses waterfront promenades to link the buildings. Throughout seventy thousand square feet of gallery space, visitors will explore the permanent collection, as well as twenty-eight works on loan from museums and cultural institutions in the Arab world and three hundred works on loan from French museums. One highlight: the Musée du Louvre’s La Belle Ferronnière by Leonardo da Vinci. That French connection will endure for some time, as Louvre Abu Dhabi will have access to seventeen Louvre partner organizations such as the Musée d’Orsay, the Château de Versailles, and the Bibliothèque nationale de France for the next decade. And while the museum will use the Louvre name for thirty-plus years, it is, in fact, an independent institution that intends to make a distinct mark on the world. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 39
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An exterior view of Louvre Abu Dhabi. The museum is completely surrounded by water and is only reachable by boat. Photo by wangbin6007 / Shutterstock 40 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
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Left: The museum’s inaugural celebration included fireworks and digital art projected onto the exterior of the building. Photo by Vartan Kelechian, courtesy of Louvre Abu Dhabi Below: A broader view of the Great Vestibule, including the beautiful ceiling that allows a view of the dome Photo by Marc Domage, courtesy of Louvre Abu Dhabi
T R AC I N G T H E H I S TO RY O F T H E M U S É E D U LO U V R E I N P A R I S I N T H E E I G H T E E N T H C E N T U R Y , I T F E AT U R E S 1 5 0 P A I N T I N G S , S C U L P T U R E S , D E C O R AT I V E A R T S , A N D O T H E R P I E C E S , M O S T L Y
A
F R O M M U S É E D U LO U V R E C O L L E C T I O N S .
s part of that pursuit, Louvre Abu Dhabi will invite extraordinary contemporary artists to create site-specific installations multiple times a year. The first two commissions were in place for the November opening: Germination by Giuseppe Penone and For Louvre Abu Dhabi by Jenny Holzer. And in December, the museum launched From One Louvre to Another: Opening a Museum for Everyone as its inaugural special exhibition. Tracing the history of the Musée du Louvre in Paris in the eighteenth century, it features 150 paintings, sculptures, decorative arts, and other pieces, mostly from Musée du Louvre collections. Following the original Louvre’s illustrious model, this new sibling has set an unapologetically ambitious
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agenda for itself that includes serving as a touchstone for the region and attracting the next generation of talented museum professionals. Says Rabaté, “It has reinvented the eighteenth-century premise of the universal museum for a demanding contemporary audience.”
LOU V R EAB U D HAB I . A E Tori Phelps has been a writer and editor for nearly twenty years. A publishing industry veteran and longtime VIE collaborator, Phelps lives with three kids, two cats, and one husband in Charleston, South Carolina.
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Bon appétit!
A TASTE OF
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BY ANDREW MARSHALL
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e head to the Dutch capital for a three-day gastro city break to sample some classic eats and drinks. From apple pie and licorice to herring and craft beers, there is something for everyone. “Welcome to the Jordaan Food and Canal Tour,” says Eating Amsterdam guide Aileen Martinia outside Café Papeneiland (Prinsengracht 2) one crisp April morning. Just west of the canal belt and formerly a working-class area, the Jordaan is now one of the city’s most desirable and character-filled neighborhoods, packed with specialty food shops, cafés, and restaurants. The four-hour tour provides an excellent initiation into Amsterdam’s culinary traditions, with uniquely Dutch tastings from several food vendors interspersed with entertaining facts and tales en route. Café Papeneiland is a great example of a traditional bruin café (brown café) and one of the oldest in the city, dating back to 1642. The term “brown café” comes from the dark but snug wooden interiors, and for many locals, an Amsterdam brown café is an extension of their living room. “I have been coming here every week for years to catch up with friends and enjoy some apple pie,” says Willem Alexander. The Dutch have been making appelgebak, or apple pie, since the 1500s, and Café Papeneiland is one of the best places in town to sample it, as theirs is lovingly made from a closely guarded recipe handed down through generations.
ONE FAMOUS CAFÉ PAPENEILAND CUSTOMER WAS BILL CLINTON, WHO ENJOYED HIS SLICE OF APPLE PIE SO MUCH THAT HE DECIDED TO TAKE A WHOLE ONE BACK HOME WITH HIM. A LETTER FROM THE Opposite: Exterior WHITE HOUSE THANKING THE shot of De L’Europe Amsterdam, a fiveCAFÉ’S STAFF IS PROUDLY DISstar luxury hotel on PLAYED ON THE WALL OPPOSITE the Amstel River THE BAR. Photo courtesy of De
L’Europe Amsterdam
White House thanking the café’s staff is proudly displayed on the wall opposite the bar. We join the rest of the tour group around a wooden table in the corner to enjoy a slice of this iconic dessert, served with a large dollop of whipped cream and accompanied by coffee. It’s absolutely heavenly.
Below: An Amsterdam favorite—the classic Dutch apple pie with a dollop of whipped cream on the side Photo by Paul Marshall
What separates Dutch apple pie from the others is the extra-thick crust and spicy filling of cinnamon, brown sugar, and raisins that help soak up the juices from the apples as the pie cooks. One famous Café Papeneiland customer was Bill Clinton, who enjoyed his slice of apple pie so much that he decided to take a whole one back home with him. A letter from the
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Bon appétit!
with chopped onion or gherkin. “There is a saying here that if you don’t try herring, you will regret it, and if you try herring, you will regret it,” says Aileen with a smile. If herring isn’t your thing, then try the superb deep-fried cod bites in beer batter, known as kibbeling.
J Above: Jordaan Food and Canal Tour participants board the salon boat, The Tourist. Photo by Paul Marshall Opposite left: An interior shot of charming restaurant Ron Gastrobar Photo courtesy of Maria Cavali Fotografie Opposite right: Salty and sweet Dutch licorice by Jacob Hooy & Co Photo by Paul Marshall
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ust around the corner from Café Papeneiland is Swieti Sranang or “Sweet Suriname” (Brouwersgracht 125), a humble-looking takeaway serving some great food from the former Dutch colonies. “Until a few years ago, Dutch cuisine wasn’t terribly exciting, but people from Suriname and Indonesia have brought their amazing foods with them, and restaurants can now be found on many street corners in most neighborhoods,” says Aileen. We all crowded eagerly inside to sample broodje pom, a Surinamese oven dish which combines three central ingredients: chicken, citrus juice, and pomtajer (a plant indigenous to Suriname) served in a bread roll, and baka bana, deep-fried plantain with peanut sauce. Next on the agenda is Louman (Goudsbloemstraat 76), an old-fashioned butcher’s shop which has been selling locally sourced meats—particularly sausages—for over 150 years. The ossenworst (smoked raw beef sausage) and grillworst (grilled sausage) are popular choices. Close by is the top-quality fishmonger Urker Viswinkel (Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 13), which features the Dutch favorite maatjesharing (fresh raw herring cured in brine) on its menu. The usual practice is to take your herring by the tail and toss it whole down your throat, with your head held back, but the faint-hearted may prefer them in a roll or on a plate
ANOTHER TOUR HIGHLIGHT IS A TRIP THROUGH AMSTERDAM’S WORLD HERITAGE CANALS ON THE TOURIST, A BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED SALON BOAT BUILT IN 1909, WHERE WE SAMPLE THREE TYPES OF CHEESE FROM DE KAASKAMER CHEESE SHOP (RUNSTRAAT 7) PAIRED WITH A BOTTLE OF WINE. Another tour highlight is a trip through Amsterdam’s World Heritage canals on The Tourist, a beautifully crafted salon boat built in 1909, where we sample three types of cheese from De Kaaskamer cheese shop (Runstraat 7) paired with a bottle of wine. Next up is a portion of the quintessential Dutch bar food bitterballen (golden fried meat and potato balls that are much tastier than they look), alongside some superb local beers from the microbrewery Brouwerij ’t IJ. You certainly won’t go hungry on a Jordaan Food and Canal Tour, and my advice is to go easy on breakfast on the day of your tour.
SPIRIT OF AMSTERDAM In the afternoon, we visited the amusingly named Wynand Fockink (Pijlsteeg 31) to experience the Netherlands trademark spirit, jenever, a fiery, juniperflavored drink similar to gin. Located down a narrow alleyway just off Dam Square, Amsterdam’s best proeflokaal (tasting house) barely looks a day older than its 1679 origins. The quirky, cozy, and atmospheric interior is a cross between an old bar and a chemist shop where antique bottles perch on crooked shelves and old wooden barrels line the walls. “This is the oldest still-producing jenever distillery and tasting room in Amsterdam,” says brand ambassador Joeri Remeeus as we survey the menu of more
than seventy jenevers and flavored liqueurs available. There are two types of jenever: oude (old) and jonge (young), and different grains such as wheat, barley, and spelt are used in the production process. Jenever is traditionally served neat in a tulip-shaped shot glass filled to the brim, which obliges you to bend down to the counter to take your first sip hands-free or risk spilling your tipple. Wynand Fockink is open daily from 3:00 to 9:00 p.m., so make sure to drop by for a quick one and don’t be surprised if you find yourself leaving with a souvenir bottle or two. A few streets away is Jacob Hooy & Co (Kloveniersburgwal 12), a marvelous store that began life as a pharmacy in 1743. Its beautiful antique interior of worn wooden floors and cabinets looks much as it did back then. Although it specializes in supplements, teas, homeopathic remedies, and herbs, the best reason to visit is the excellent selection of Dutch licorice. Aficionados of the black stuff will think they have arrived in heaven here, with sweet and salty licorice available, both soft and firm and in a variety of shapes. The Dutch refer to salty licorice as zoute drop or dubbel zoute drop (double salted licorice). On the wooden counter are some scales where the confection is weighed out “pick and mix” style, then scooped into brown paper bags in an age-old manner. Make mine a big bag, please.
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Bon appétit!
MARKET FARE
Above left: A delicious selection of Dutch cheese in the Albert Cuypmarkt. Above right: Another culinary favorite in Amsterdam are sugary mini pancakes called poffertjes. Opposite left: Brouwerij ’t IJ offers a flight of four organic beers. Photos by Paul Marshall Opposite right: An interior shot of Brouwerij Troost. Fun fact: this restaurant is located in what used to be a monastery. Photo courtesy of La Bolleur
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The next morning, we headed out to the trendy De Pijp neighborhood to visit Albert Cuypmarkt, the biggest and most popular outdoor market in the Netherlands, operating since 1905. Over 250 stalls, selling everything from clothing and flowers to fresh vegetables and a smorgasbord of Dutch specialties, are set up down one very long street. Cheese stalls bulge with Gouda, Edam, and Friese nagelkaas, a clove cheese that became popular when spices were first imported in the seventeenth century. Another stall sells poffertjes; a traditional Dutch batter treat dating from the Napoleon era. Made with yeast and buckwheat flour, poffertjes resemble small, fluffy pancakes and are typically eaten with butter and sugar.
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hile you wander the market (open Monday to Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.) keep an eye out for a food van with the sign “Goudse Stroopwafels,” which sells another favorite Dutch treat, the stroopwafel. First made in the city of Gouda, a stroopwafel is a waffle made from two thin layers of baked dough with a caramel-like syrup in the center, and Goudse Stroopwafels are said to be the best in Amsterdam. Another top foodie destination is Boerenmarkt, Amsterdam’s organic Saturday farmer’s market, where, to the accompaniment of some fine busking, you can cruise the various stands offering goat cheese, Dutch meats, freshly baked breads, and fabulous fungi.
MADE WITH YEAST AND BUCKWHEAT FLOUR, POFFERTJES RESEMBLE SMALL, FLUFFY PANCAKES AND ARE TYPICALLY EATEN WITH BUTTER AND SUGAR. It’s worth mentioning that close to the start of the Albert Cuypmarkt is Warung Spang Makandra (Gerard Doustraat 39), an authentic diner serving typical Surinamese and Javanese dishes. Try the roti chicken, Javanese soup (saoto), or the house special of fried rice, stir-fried noodles, chicken fillet in soya sauce, chicken skewer with peanut butter sauce, sliced Surinamese long beans, fried egg, and deep-fried mashed potato ball with herbs. Also in the area is Afoe Censie (Gerard Douplein 12), a Surinamese grocery bursting with exotic fruits such as durians, papayas, mangoes, and coconuts.
BEER AND BREWERIES With a rich brewing tradition and household names like Heineken and Grolsch, it’s no surprise that the Netherlands’ number one bar drink is beer. In Amsterdam in recent years, there’s been a trend toward craft beers, with brewpubs and microbreweries popping up all around town. In the afternoon (all in the name of research, of course), we took a tram trip from Central Station to check out the microbrewery Brouwerij ’t IJ (Funenkade 7), situated in the east of the city. Adjacent to the landmark 1814 De Gooyer windmill and set within a former 1950s bathhouse, this is one of Amsterdam’s best-loved microbreweries.
“THERE’S NO MUSIC HERE; IT’S ALL ABOUT THE APPRECIATION OF BEER IN RELAXED, SOCIABLE SURROUNDINGS. WE OFFER FOUR ORGANIC BEERS ON TAP, ONE-OFF BREWS, AND BOTTLED BEERS IN A RANGE OF STYLES AND STRENGTHS.” “Beer has been brewed at Brouwerij ’t IJ for over thirty years, and it’s very popular with locals and tourists alike,” says director Patrick Hendrikse. “There’s no music here; it’s all about the appreciation of beer in relaxed, sociable surroundings. We offer four organic beers on tap, one-off brews, and bottled beers in a range of styles and strengths.” Menu selections include Zatte (a smooth-flavored tripel with hints of fresh fruit and grains), Natte (a dark, smooth Belgian-style organic dubbel)
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This page and opposite: Photos by Paul Marshall
THE SHEEP THAT PROVIDE THE MILK FOR THE CHEESE ARE FED ON MALT DREGS LEFT OVER FROM BEER MAKING AT BROUWERIJ ’T IJ—A PERFECT EXAMPLE OF FULL-CIRCLE SYNERGY IN ACTION. and Struis (an English-style brew with a deep, dark color and full of malty flavors). Each is best enjoyed alongside some Skeapsrond, a soft organic sheep’s cheese from Dikhoeve farm in Ransdorp, about ten kilometers outside Amsterdam. The sheep that provide the milk for the cheese are fed on malt dregs left over from beer making at Brouwerij ’t IJ—a perfect example of full-circle synergy in action. The brewery is open daily between 2:00 and 8:00 p.m. and allows you to combine top-notch beer tasting with some classic Dutch scenery. Definitely recommended.
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here are plenty of other excellent places in Amsterdam for beer aficionados. The ’t Arendsnest (Herengracht 90) distinguishes itself from other city bars by serving only Dutch beer, with over 350 varieties from fifty breweries and microbreweries. Tasting sessions are held downstairs where you can learn about the history of beer and the brewing process. Other places worth a visit: Craft & Draft (Overtoom 417), Butcher’s Tears (Karperweg 45), Bierproeflokaal In De Wildeman (Kolksteeg 3), De Bekeerde Suster (Kloveniersburgwal 6)—a brewery set up by nuns in the fifteenth century—and the bottle shop De Bierkoning (Paleisstraat 125), which has almost a thousand beers.
TASTE OF TRADITION When it comes to restaurants and cafés serving typical Dutch cuisine, they can be quite tricky to find, as many Amsterdammers like to eat something different than their home cooking when they go out. A fine example is Moeders or “Mothers” (Rozengracht 251), a quirky restaurant with a vintage vibe serving Dutch classics. Inside, photos of mothers brought in over the years by customers adorn most of the wall space—and none of the china, cutlery, or glasses match. This represents the odd kitchenware one might find in their mother’s cupboard. The homely Bistro Bij Ons (Prinsengracht 287) and the elegant De Silveren Spiegel (Kattengat 4–6), housed in a seventeenth-century building, are two other restaurants keeping the traditions of the Dutch kitchen alive. Some of the typical hearty dishes served in these restaurants are hachee (a Dutch stew based on diced meat and vegetables), erwtensoep (pea soup), gerookte paling (smoked eel served with white toast and a squeeze of lemon), and stamppot boerenkool (mashed potatoes and red cabbage flecked with chopped bacon and smoked sausage). If you’re looking for home-cooked food with a truly personal touch, then “living room restaurants” offer a brilliant alternative to traditional dining. Living room restaurants are a rapidly blossoming trend in Amsterdam and provide a great opportunity to meet new people, enjoy fantastic food in the chef ’s home, and immerse yourself in the local culture.
On our final day in Amsterdam, we had lunch at the stunning greenhouse restaurant De Kas (Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3). The glass building dates back to the 1920s when it was used as the city’s municipal greenhouse, and it still retains an old-fashioned charm despite its conversion into a superstylish eatery. Locally sourced meat and line-caught fish complement the organic vegetables, herbs, and flowers grown on-site. The three-course menu, prepared by head chef Bas Wiegel, changes with the seasons and depends on what’s picked from the garden each day. And you can’t get much fresher than that.
USEFUL WEBSITES Eating Amsterdam Tours: EatingAmsterdamTours.com Living Room Restaurants: WhatsUpWithAmsterdam.com/living-room-restaurants Wynand Fockink: Wynand-Fockink.nl Brouwerij ’t IJ: BrouwerijhetIJ.nl Restaurant De Kas: RestaurantDeKas.nl
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PLACES TO STAY
LLOYD HOTEL & CULTURAL EMBASSY
VOLKSHOTEL
SEVEN BRIDGES HOTEL
This unique accommodation opened in 2004 and is situated in a listed monument by architect Evert Breman from 1921. It is the first one- to five-star hotel in the world, with all 117 rooms individually created by contemporary Dutch designers. This showcase of Dutch design features iconic works of art, exhibitions, a library packed with art books, and a restaurant that utilizes as much homegrown produce as possible. The Lloyd Hotel & Cultural Embassy lies in the heart of the gentrified Eastern Docklands area (a short tram ride from the Central Station), which is awash with culture, architecture, and places to eat and drink. (Oostelijke Handelskade 34)
The former offices of De Volkskrant—one of the biggest, most progressive Dutch newspapers—have been given new life in the form of this stylish and ultracool accommodation. The ground floor boasts a suspended 1950s television welcoming guests, distressed leather armchairs, oil drum tables, and lampshades made from recycled beer cans. The minimalist guest rooms, with platform beds suspended from raw concrete ceilings and walls, give the whole place a retro, vintage, industrial vibe. The Volkshotel is located in the upcoming Amsterdam East, near the Amstel River and the lively De Pijp neighborhood and can easily be reached via the metro from Central Station. (Wibautstraat 150)
Seven bridges can be spotted from this opulent three-hundred-year-old canal house brimming with character. All the rooms and suites are individually furnished and feature oriental carpets on wooden floors, handcrafted marquetry furniture by a Dutch artisan, and exquisite authentic antiques. They range from the Baroque, Louis XV, and Louis XVI eras to Art Deco sourced from Sotheby’s and Christie’s. An optional breakfast is available in your room, served on fine china. The hotel is situated in a quiet area just a few minutes’ walk to tram stops at Rembrandt Square, and Pierre in reception will assist you with any directions and transport information. (Reguliersgracht 31)
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V ol ks h o t e l . n l
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S e v e n B r i d g e s H o t e l .n l
Bon appĂŠtit!
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A Tast Tale of Two ities
FOOD TOURS OF PARIS AND PARMA
BY C A R O LY N O ’ N E I L
Learning to listen for the delicate crunching sound of a perfectly baked baguette in Paris, or watching as chunks of cheese in Parma are broken into rough pieces for the best taste experience—these are just two examples of delicious lessons learned during expert-led food tours. According to surveys conducted by Virtuoso—a network of luxury travel advisors—one of the top trends in travel is the enjoyment of authentic culinary experiences. It’s no surprise that neighborhood market tours, farm visits, regional cuisine cooking classes, and even dining with the locals are on the to-do lists of traveling foodies.
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Bon appétit! A D E L I C I O U S DA Y I N PA R I S
In the city of Paris, just about every street is a fantastic food tour of open-air markets, charming cafés, festive brasseries, and Michelin-starred restaurants. On a recent trip, I decided to take a deeper dive into the culinary scene by joining a guided food tour. Sure, you can happily wander the neighborhoods of Paris on your own, but during my day with Paris a Dream food tours, I was not only led to the brightest spots to sample the best fare, but I was also introduced to the people behind the food.
Right: Cute little pastries at a café in Belleville look almost too good to eat—almost! Photo by Carolyn O’Neil Below: A baker at authentic boulangerie Grégory Desfoux sprinkles flour onto baguette dough during a behindthe-scenes tour. Photo by Benoit Fortrye, courtesy of Paris a Dream
The knowledgeable guide for our tour was a lovely young French woman, Angelique Lagarde, who is also a trained chef. The three-hour walking route was carefully planned to include tasting a variety of foods, chatting with the locals, and gathering delicacies along the way. Another delight, Angelique acted as our interpreter when there was a need to translate English into French or vice versa. While many residents in central Paris speak English, we were in a residential neighborhood northeast of the city that proved to be a little trickier for nonFrench speakers to navigate. BEAUTIFUL BELLEVILLE
Paris is a patchwork of many neighborhoods. The tour led us through a part of Paris I had never visited, Belleville. Once a wine-making village, it has a rich tradition of folk music and is the birthplace of famed singer Édith Piaf. The Parc de Belleville offers a magnificent view of Paris and boasts the only active drinking fountain fed by a natural spring still available for filling water bottles (or your poodle’s drinking bowl).
DURING MY DAY WITH PARIS A DREAM FOOD TOURS, I WAS NOT ONLY LED TO THE BRIGHTEST SPOTS TO SAMPLE THE BEST FARE, BUT I WAS ALSO INTRODUCED TO THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE FOOD. Belleville, while historic, is a neighborhood on the rise with lots of students, young families, bohemian-style boutiques, unique coffee shops, a small Chinatown, and a dynamic display of urban street art. The village is lively and lovable—and so is its food scene. “We are very excited to share with you our passion for Belleville and its authenticity,” said Isabelle Pochat, founder of Paris a Dream food tours. “The tour is made of samplings by different artisans who will introduce you to pastries, bread, charcuterie, fresh produce, and wine with a journey through the real French population and a shared love of good food.” Our tour began near the Rue de Belleville, the neighborhood’s main shopping street, anchored by the elegant double spires of the neo-Gothic church Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Belleville, built in the 1850s.
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W
e jumped straight into the twenty-first century to warm up on a chilly morning with a cup of hot coffee and tiny chouquette puff pastries in front of the fireplace at the Cerwood Terrasse. It’s a cozy, modern café with rustic mountain cabin decor. Then we hit the streets of Belleville, popping in and out of shops featuring cheeses, seasonal produce, seafood, charcuterie, artisanal olives oils, jams, pastries, and bread (of course!). Did you know that the bread must be baked on-site for a bakery to be called a boulangerie? At the Boulangerie Au 140, we were invited to step into the kitchen, where master bakers worked their magic. Seeing the dough rise and the baguettes being shaped and smelling the yeasty aromas of crispy loaves emerging from the oven was an extrasensory experience. That’s my kind of French perfume! The tour continued with a stroll past artists, spraypaint cans in hand, adding to the local street art and concluded at La Cave de Belleville wine shop. On a farmhouse table set near stacks of wine, Angelique created a beautiful picnic spread. We feasted on goat’s-, cow’s-, and sheep’s-milk cheeses, apricot and thyme jams, olive and artichoke tapenades, eggplant “caviar,” Le Prince de Paris ham (the last cooked ham produced in Paris), goose liver pâté, baguettes (which we had seen being baked), and fig tarts. The lunch was paired with wines from three different regions in France and a large serving of laughter among new friends—undoubtedly the best way to practice speaking French while on vacation in Paris.
T R U E I TA L I A N TA S T E S I N PA R M A
Above right: Sumptuous fruits and other fresh produce at an open-air market in Paris Photo by Sorbis / Shutterstock
There are plenty of “Italian” products to choose from in shops, restaurants, and online today. There’s balsamic vinegar, Parmesan cheese, prosciutto, provolone, and Gorgonzola. But it’s not Italian if it’s not made in Italy. Something might be produced well in other countries and might taste pretty darn good, but it’s not truly Italian. And that makes a delicious difference. How can you tell if a food or an ingredient is truly Italian? Look for the certification label PDO, an initialism that stands for “protected
“THE TOUR IS MADE OF SAMPLINGS BY DIFFERENT ARTISANS WHO WILL INTRODUCE YOU TO PASTRIES, BREAD, CHARCUTERIE, FRESH PRODUCE, AND WINE.” designation of origin.” It not only signifies that the food is from the specific region, but it’s also a certification that the preparation meets characteristics essential to the time-honored quality of the product. FOOD RULES OF THE REGION
Recognizing the PDO seal of approval is the critical culinary lesson I learned while touring and tasting my way through Parma in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy. It’s the home of Prosciutto di Parma, Provolone Valpadana, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. Artisans have been making these sought-after gourmet products for hundreds of years, and today some farms and production facilities offer behind-the-scenes tours. It’s part of an emerging travel trend called agritourism, and Italy is at the forefront. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 57
Bon appétit!
Above: Colorful downtown Parma, Italy— a city famous for its prosciutto, cheese, architecture, and music Photo by Eddy Galeotti / Shutterstock Right: A cheesemaker demonstrates how to correctly break and serve Parmesan cheese. Opposite: One of many sleek specimens at the Museo Enzo Ferrari in nearby Modena Photos by Carolyn O’Neil
T
o see how the milk from the cows of Parma is transformed into the prized Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO cheese, the Consorzio Produttori Latte in Parma offers prearranged tours. It’s fascinating to see the shaping of the classic eighty-five-pound wheels of cheese and to witness the enormity of aging rooms stacked high with the iconic circles waiting to be shipped around the world. But there’s no need for you to wait any longer to taste them than the time it takes to walk to the cheese shop next door.
ARTISANS HAVE BEEN MAKING THESE SOUGHT-AFTER GOURMET PRODUCTS FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS, AND TODAY SOME FARMS AND PRODUCTION FACILITIES OFFER BEHIND-THE-SCENES TOURS. In nearby Modena, balsamic vinegar producers at Aceto Balsamico del Duca di Adriano Grosoli share the story of their centuries-old craft; they include a cellar tour and tasting room experience, quite similar to winery tours where visitors learn about the journey from vine to glass. Look for Traditional
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Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO when you want to buy the best. While touring Modena, plan a pit stop at the Enzo Ferrari Museum. You don’t have to be a Hot Wheels fan to appreciate the design and engineering story of the Ferrari family. The museum also features a terrific café and wine bar along with its impressive collection of vintage and prized automobiles. And remember, if you’re going to call a vehicle an Italian sports car, it had better be made in Italy.
Visit Paris-a-Dream.com and TrueItalianTaste.com to start planning your Parisian and Parmesan food tours today! Carolyn O’Neil is an Atlanta-based food writer who specializes in culinary travel. As a cookbook author and a registered dietitian nutritionist, she believes the more you know, the more you can eat! Find her blog at TheHealthyHappyKitchen.com.
THE TRAVELER
Being well traveled never goes out of style. Even when we’ve just come back from a vacation, we’re already dreaming about the next voyage. With an endless number of unique experiences around the world triggering our curiosity, can you really blame us? Whether you’re looking for an adventure mountain climbing at a national park, exploring a different culture, or rejuvenating at a spa retreat in an exotic location, we’re here to encourage you to go for it. Immerse yourself in the world and say “C’est la vie!” with this collection of travel-inspired goodies!
1
Roll with It
CALPAK Astyll Marbled Hard-Shell Suitcase Set $85 – net-a-porter.com 60 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Isn’t Life S’well 2
Wander Woman
Assouline, Nomad Deluxe by Herbert Ypma $85 – net-a-porter.com
Nailed It
3
S’well Gray Malin Bondi Beach 17-ounce Reusable Bottle $42 – neimanmarcus.com
4
Dior Dissolvant Abricot Acetone-Free Polish Remover $22 – neimanmarcus.com
5
Just in Case
Charlotte Tilbury Magical Mini Brush Set $65 – charlottetilbury.com
Tote-ally Ready
6
Rivington Convertible Tote $225–$450 – henribendel.com
7
Best Foot Forward
Jimmy Choo Miami Champagne Glitter Fabric and Metallic Nappa Sneakers $550 – jimmychoo.com
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C’est la vie
8
Day in the Sun
Matthew Williamson 142 C3 Round Sunglasses £170 – uk.lindafarrow.com
Safari, So Good
9
African Horseback Safaris £475–£670/night – africanhorseback.com
10
On the Map
Atlas Series Etched Leather Map Journals $78 – tactilecraftworks.com
If You’ve Got It . . .
FLAUNT by Lauren Napier Facial Cleansing Wipes $23 – laurennapier.com
12
Strap In
Madison Ankle-Strap Sandals $198 – jmclaughlin.com
Out of the Box
13
Try the World Gourmet Foods Subscription $39/month – trytheworld.com
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11
Read into This
14
Timeless Journeys: Travels to the World’s Legendary Places $40 – shop.nationalgeographic.com
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Neck and Neck Giraffe Manor in Nairobi $550–$2,000/day thesafaricollection.com
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L’amour
Learn more or place your order at TheMillionRoses.us.
L’amour IT’S ALL YOU NEED.
Not that you need an excuse to dote on those you love, but ’tis the season for love— and Valentine’s Day! This year, why settle for a regular bouquet when you can treat your loved one to The Million Roses? These stunning collections of roses come in a variety of sizes and colors, but that’s not the best part. The blooms will stay fresh for one to three years, thanks to the company’s natural rehydration technique using glycerin and other plant elements. Beautiful!
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L’amour
by Suzanne Pollak
O N VA L E N T I N E ’ S DAY, YO U C A N U S E YO U R D I N I N G TA B L E TO B E W I TC H W H O M YO U W I L L .
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learly, your table cannot float down the Nile; it may not be burnished with gold and decorated with pretty dimpled boys like smiling Cupids to attend your guests, with you dripping in jewels and arranged in shimmering silks atop it. But anyone can light a profusion of candles, gather scented flowers, and use gleaming silver—with the goal of glowing surfaces everywhere, the better to reflect skin and eyes. Cleopatra planned a stealthy assault on a worldrenowned seducer and leader, and you can too. Your dining table is your secret weapon and could be the vehicle for casting spells. You can orchestrate business deals and marriage proposals, ignite or rekindle passions. In fact, there is not much a dining table cannot do when set to extract the maximum benefit out of this four-legged physical asset. Every four-star general knows winning the heart and mind of the target takes strategic planning. Even fishermen need to set the hook. You want your Valentine to forget all else but you.
So, what is your hook? First, you must be clear on what is it that you bring to the table. It’s not just about décolleté and killer shoes. Stilettos remain hidden—they may be useful for playing footsie, but such a tactic is pedestrian and beneath your expertise. Save that trick for later. Naturally, drape yourself with the most luxurious threads you can slide into, but it’s more important to use your wit, humor, and conversational skills. Even more beguiling, be curious and an intense listener. A true seducer effortlessly makes the other feel like a star. It’s second nature. Next, learn from the queen herself. In her arsenal were the five senses—Cleopatra shrewdly manipulated them all, and you should too. Her wisdom beggared all description—besides using a wooden boat (you’ve
got your wooden table), she used sight, touch, sound, taste, and smell and they became magic wands under her spell. Shakespeare describes touches of flowersoft hands, invisible perfumes (even the winds were lovesick from the scents!), flutes, fifes, and harps, and then, after her brilliant take-charge move, the seductive feasting began.
The Meeting of Antony and Cleopatra: 41 BC by Sir Lawrence AlmaTadema, 1883. In 41 BC, Cleopatra used her barge to seduce the Roman general Marc Antony.
Cleopatra’s clincher: upon meeting Antony, she immediately took the upper hand by refusing his invitation to supper, saying it should be better he became her guest. Taking charge is alluring. The Dean will let you figure this one out. After all, it’s your night. The Academy cannot micromanage your magic. Let nature take its course. Happy Valentine’s Day!
XOXO, the Dean
Suzanne Pollak, a mentor and lecturer in the fields of home, hearth, and hospitality, is the founder of the Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits. She is the coauthor of Entertaining for Dummies, The Pat Conroy Cookbook, and The Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits: A Handbook of Etiquette with Recipes. Born into a diplomatic family, Pollak was raised in Africa, where her parents hosted multiple parties every week. Her South Carolina homes have been featured in the Wall Street Journal “Mansion” section and Town & Country magazine. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 67
L’amour
D E A N P O L L A K ’ S VA L E N T I N E ’ S DAY M E N U
PORK CHOPS WITH SAUTÉED PEARS What you don’t want is a gray pork chop. A gray chop indicates the heat wasn’t high enough. It means that you were chicken. Don’t get chicken with the pig. The difference between chefs and home cooks is that chefs are not afraid of high heat. The pork chop goal is juicy pink on the inside, crispy fat on the outside. The difficulty lies between crusty on the outside and tender on the inside.
INGREDIENTS: Pork chops Fresh sage leaves Pears, thickly sliced Olive oil
DIRECTIONS: For starters, buy your pork chops from the best butcher in town. Making an inferior pork chop superior is impossible. Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat. When the surface is hot, pour a generous slug of olive oil in the pan. You are not frying the chop, but you need more oil than a bare sheen. Using enough hot oil is the reason the fat crisps and becomes delicious. This heated oil is going to splatter, so wear an apron to protect your clothes and know you will be wiping the stove and the floor near the stove during cleanup time. Your valentine’s stomach and yours are worth that hassle. When the oil starts to pop or “spit” (after about thirty seconds), lay the pork chops in the pan and leave them alone for exactly five minutes. Then turn the chops over. The second side is the creative side. Not to make you crazy, but “listen to the vibe.” Depending on the chop’s thickness, the temperature of the pan surface, and even the humidity, the second side will cook in three to five minutes. After cooking pork chops a few times, you will know precisely when it is ready by touching and looking. Until that time comes, know that your chop is finished when the second side’s fat is crispy but the interior is pale pink. Stick a knife tip into the middle of the meat and take a look at the color. There’s a fine line between pinky perfection and gray overtones. When you turn the chop to the second side, place sage leaves and slices of pears around the chops. Both leaves and fruit will be ready in two minutes when browned and crispy. Serve pork chops with sage and pears on the side. This recipe pairs perfectly with Pollak’s cherries jubilee. The recipe for this delicious dessert can be found in The Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits: A Handbook of Etiquette with Recipes.
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DO YOU DREAM OF SUCCESS & HAPPINESS? THIS IS A MUST-READ FOR ANYONE AT ANY AGE!
AVAILABLE NOW ON DARINCOLUCCI.COM
L’amour
Special Valentine’s Day Edition DAZZLING JEWELS
It’s the season of sparkle! With Valentine’s Day coming up, there’s never been a better time to drop a hint to your S.O. that you’d like something shiny this year. Or, if you’re a single lady, go ahead and treat yourself! These precious jewels are absolute showpieces, and they’re sure to make your heart flutter in all the right ways. With a variety of colors and styles, there’s inspiration for everyone in this glittering roundup!
1
Mint to Be
JFINE Argyle Mint Tourmaline Drop Earrings: mint tourmaline briolettes, white shield-cut diamonds, fancy pink oval diamonds, and Argyle pink diamonds in 18-karat pink gold $84,000 – ArgylePinkDiamonds.us 70 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
2
Rosy Disposition
JFINE Origins of Argyle Necklace: total of forty-four carats including certified Argyle pink diamonds, certified Argyle brown diamonds, certified Argyle white diamonds, and Argyle champagne and cognac diamonds in 18-karat pink gold $650,000 – ArgylePinkDiamonds.us
3
Put a Ring on It
Faint Blue Diamond Heart Ring: 3.01-carat gem is GIA-certified as Natural Faint Blue with fancy pink and white diamonds in 18-karat gold setting $128,500 – RauAuntiques.com
Most Serpently True
5
Garnet and Opal Snake Ring: white diamonds, garnet, and cabochon Australian black opal in a meandering serpent shape $58,000 – RauAntiques.com
4
This Girl Is on Fire
Fire Opal Drop Earrings: platinum, red spinels, fire opals, and diamonds $124,500 – LarmoireNewCanaan.com
6
Pinky Promise
Pink Sapphire Cobblestone Ring: pink sapphires set in sterling silver $1,800 – LJCrossNY.com
Brace Yourself
7
JFINE Argyle Flex Bracelet: Argyle pink diamonds and white diamonds in 18-karat pink gold $85,000 – ArgylePinkDiamonds.us V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 71
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Learn more or book your stay at Icehotel.com! Photo by Asaf Kliger
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SEE THE WORLD
Ever been curious about what it would be like to sleep in an igloo? Here’s your chance to find out! The Icehotel Sweden, located in the tiny village of Jukkasjärvi, has attracted winter visitors since its inception in 1990. Each year, the ice (sourced from the nearby Torne River) is reconfigured to create a new layout of guest rooms, common areas, and the popular Icebar, which is open to the public. Thirty-five more guest rooms are available in the Icehotel addition every winter. You can even book your wedding in the Ice Ceremony Hall! If you can’t make it to Jukkasjärvi, check the hotel’s website for information on pop-up Icebars around the world.
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E XCU R S IO N S
Hot air balloons soaring over the ancient city of Bagan are a quintessential sight of Myanmar. See them for yourself on Acanela’s Myanmar and Laos expedition. 74 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
THE NEW WAY TO TRAVEL
ravel agencies are an indispensable resource for planning the “big” trips—the ones that take you halfway around the world to explore a culture you’ve never experienced or on an adventure to a remote destination. Hiring a travel agent might be the best move you can make to ensure your accommodations, travel plans, and activities itinerary are well structured to fit your goals and your budget. Today, many agencies are taking travel to the next level with tailor-made group excursions that are designed to delve deeper into the true culture and lifestyle of a destination, rather than hitting just the tourism high points. Travelers can get personal experience through workshops with local artisans, chefs, and families, and even volunteer to help out in the communities they visit. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 75
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Opposite: The iconic white walls and narrow streets of Santorini, Greece, are a highlight of the Culinary Greek Isles experience. Photo by Kylie Chenn Below: The Botswana and Zambia Safari is one of Acanela’s most popular experiences. Here, elephants cross the road in Botswana’s Chobe National Park.
ylie Chenn, founder and CEO of Acanela Expeditions, started the company when she was just twenty-one years old, and it has since blossomed into a global affair. She says her company’s goal is “to inspire people to travel while at the same time building up small business enterprises across the world.” VIE got together with Chenn to discuss her innovative travel agency, its impactful mission, and some of the incredible destinations that travelers can discover through its offerings.
built around an artisan or artisans on whom we are focused to help them expand their talents and their small businesses to the world. All of our trips also have a focus on connection through food, so in all of our itineraries, you will see the addition of a cooking class, a dinner with a local family, or a dining experience at one of the city’s top local restaurants.
VIE: What sets Acanela apart from other travel agencies?
VIE: Which excursions are your most popular?
Kylie Chenn: Acanela is different in that we only put together smallgroup and private trips that are multilocational and very culturally immersive in nature. Our company was founded on the basis of impact, as our goal is to build up small business enterprises across the world through positive tourism. We only use local boutique accommodations, guides, and transport, and each trip is
KC:
There are too many to choose! Our safaris in Botswana and other parts of Africa such as Kilimanjaro, Morocco and Spain, our Japanese culinary tour, Peru and Ecuador, Southeast Asia from Thailand to Vietnam, Eastern Europe, India and the Taj Mahal, and our Arctic and Antarctic cruises are all incredible.
VIE: Who is your typical guest? KC: We have a wide variety of people traveling with us, depending on the location and the trip. We only operate small-group and private expeditions so that we can tailor the style of the trip to the needs of each of our travelers. We have a lot of young people, both married and single, who take our trips, and we also have a lot of older individuals on our trips who are looking for an immersive experience to a new location that they have never traveled to before.
VIE: What’s the biggest challenge of arranging these types of experiences?
KC:
People around the world have different customs, cultures, and traditions that are beautiful—but these can also be challenging when you are putting together a travel experience. We work with many travelers who are traveling to a country or region for the first time, and therefore often appreciate the preparation we give them before their journey. We spend a lot of time training our team of boutique hotels, guides, drivers, and artisans to provide not only a pleasant experience but also one that will be meaningful to our travelers.
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VIE:
Which experience has been your personal favorite and why?
KC:
Each of our experiences is unique, so this always a hard question for me to answer! I love our experiences in Africa, in particular, our safari adventure in Tanzania, followed by a visit to Kilimanjaro and gorilla trekking in Rwanda and Uganda. In just a short two weeks, you can experience some of the most unique cultures and wildlife that this part of the world has to offer. I was blessed to spend over four months living in Malawi, Africa, as I was building up our operations there and have had the opportunity to go on all of our expeditions to that region, so it will always be one of my favorite experiences! I also love our culinary and cultural experiences in India and Sri Lanka, Southeast Asia, and Eastern Europe. They really allow you to come close to the local people through dining experiences, artisan classes (such as cooking), and active experiences in nature.
OUR COMPANY WAS FOUNDED ON THE BASIS OF IMPACT, AS OUR GOAL IS TO BUILD UP SMALL BUSINESS ENTERPRISES ACROSS THE WORLD THROUGH POSITIVE TOURISM.
VIE: Why do you think travel is important? KC: Travel gives us an opportunity to see things from a different perspective and therefore can be a very enriching and educational experience for both the traveler and the local community. While I was still a student in university, I had a professor tell me that two months abroad, if done right, is worth more than a year of college education. Travelers have the opportunity to make a huge difference in the world by empowering locals to share their talents, helping build up their small businesses, and creating new friendships across the globe. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 77
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VIE:
Tell us a little about Acanela’s university programs. Can any school contact you to build an experience for its students?
KC: We put together custom itineraries for universities looking for educational experiences for their students in countries across the globe. Much like our expeditions, these trips are often multilocational, and immersive and educational in nature. We work with a variety of educational institutions (high schools and universities) across the United States. Any school can contact us, and as long as we work in the region they want to visit (which we usually do), we have the resources to help them build an immersive educational program for their students, typically lasting from one to nine weeks.
VIE: What about your culinary trips and Cook with a Cause mission? We loved seeing the recipes from around the world on your website!
WE WORK WITH MANY TRAVELERS WHO ARE TRAVELING TO A COUNTRY OR REGION FOR THE FIRST TIME, AND THEREFORE OFTEN APPRECIATE THE PREPARATION WE GIVE THEM BEFORE THEIR JOURNEY.
KC:
All of our trips focus on cultural connection through cuisine, so we work with numerous culinary artisans across the globe to include special dinners, cooking classes, and food experiences on each of our trips. Our focus is to help these artisans share their talents with the world. As food is a big part of any travel experience, it is a perfect opportunity for us to help locals build up their restaurants or cooking schools, or merely to help monetize a skill that usually is only used in the home. We use our Acanela collection of spice blends (created in collaboration with our artisans) to help market our experiences that have a strong culinary focus.
VIE: Do you have any new experiences coming up this year? 78 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
KC: Yes! We have a handful of new experiences that we are excited about launching in 2018; these include the Trans-Siberian Railway, the Sing Sing Festival in Papua New Guinea, Ethiopian cuisine and culture, a Namibian safari, and trips to see the Northern Lights in Greenland. We will also be giving away over fifty trips this year (one per week), so make sure to sign up for our newsletter and follow us on social media for more information on how to enter. We would love to see more people than ever traveling in 2018, and if we can help, that’s great!
To learn more and sign up for Acanela Expeditions’ e-mail newsletter, visit Acanela.com. You can also follow them on Instagram (@acanelaexpeditions), Twitter (@acanelatravel), Facebook.com/AcanelaExpeditions, and YouTube for photos, videos, and travel news!
Above: The journey through sandstone ravines to Jordan’s ancient city of Petra culminates in a relaxing dinner with your travel companions. Photo by Kylie Chenn
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THE
ristine
2
BEACHES
COLA Pensacola to Apalachicola
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OF
COLA
®
and Everything in Between
When it comes to destinations, there are many around the world that people will argue are the best. VIE’s inception as a regional magazine operating in Northwest Florida led to its original tagline, COLA 2 COLA®, referring to the roughly twohundred-mile stretch from Pensacola to Apalachicola. As the magazine has grown nationally, it has branched out to cover people, places, and events around the world. But we believe our own backyard is still one of the best destinations, and this guide will share all the beauty, culture, and fun from COLA 2 COLA®!
Northwest Florida’s Gulf Coast, from Pensacola to Apalachicola, is also known as the Emerald Coast, thanks to the brilliant blue-green waters found along its shores. Photo courtesy of Visit Panama City Beach V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 83
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THE
’COL A
Consider yourself a world traveler whose wanderlust is constrained by limited vacation time? Northwest Florida, particularly the stretch from Pensacola to Destin, offers an extensive array of happenings and hot spots that rival some of the most elite retreats. During one short stay, you can satiate your inner foodie, fashionista, history buff, and outdoorsman by exploring the bustling downtown areas, bucolic settings, and pristine beaches.
DOWNTOWN PENSACOLA Pensacola natives who haven’t returned to their hometown in recent years might steer you straight to the world-renowned white-sand beaches and away from downtown, recalling dilapidated buildings and sleepy streets they would not dare walk after dark. Ignore their advice! Making a beeline for the beach is tempting, but you won’t want to bypass the burgeoning urban oasis on the north shore of Pensacola Bay. Downtown Pensacola is in the midst of a remarkable renaissance, and now it can add the accolade “2017 Greatest Place in Florida” to its other coveted claims, which include “America’s First European Settlement.” The city’s welcoming nature and “refreshing blend of historical resolve and cosmopolitan progress” are among the many reasons for the recent win, according to the American Planning Association, which bestowed the award after a public poll. 84 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Start your stay in one of nine spacious guest suites at the Lee House. This boutique hotel in the heart of downtown boasts all the modern comforts and amenities of new construction while retaining the look and feel of the 1866 home that once graced the property. Spacious porches overlook Pensacola Bay, and the hotel is flanked by Fountain Park and Seville Square, the magnolia-canopied setting often abuzz with free concerts and family-friendly festivals. Stroll four short blocks west, past costumed docents leading tours of historic Victorian and French Creole cottages, to one of the “Ten Greatest Streets in America”—another epithet bestowed by the American Planning Association. Packed with posh boutiques, elegant eateries, and artsy exhibitions, Palafox Street is steps away from quaint museums, archaeological sites, and picnic-worthy parks. Its upscale ambience is similar to that of New York City’s swanky SoHo (short for South of Houston Street), so it’s no wonder that SoGo (south of Government Street) is the nickname given to Palafox’s shopping and dining district.
By Sloane Stephens Cox
SoGo’s Scout is a must-see for any woman who wants to dress like a wellappointed A-lister in brands such as Self Portrait, Ulla Johnson, and Golden Goose. Owner and Pensacola native Julia Ussery’s rave-worthy résumé includes working as design director at Calvin Klein and styling celebrities such as Kate Moss for top runway shows. Ussery has an uncanny ability to glean your preferences and determine what looks best on you, minimizing your time in the dressing room and maximizing the time you have to hit other haute haunts. Cruise Palafox’s brick walkways festooned with fenced-in flower beds and whimsical bike racks. The north–south stretch of more than ten blocks of storefronts showcases many creature comforts, from modern kitchen gadgets to artisanal olive oils, custom jewelry, funky home furnishings, and designer fitness apparel. Downtown businesses are popping up so quickly that even locals have a hard time staying abreast of the developments. One of the latest clusters is slated to open soon at One Palafox Place, a century-old landmark that has been completely renovated for living, working, shopping, and dining spaces.
Above: Lost Key Golf Club is one of many top-notch courses in the Pensacola area with challenging water obstacles and beautiful coastal scenery. Left: Palafox Street, lined with shops and restaurants, is the beating heart of vibrant Downtown Pensacola. Photos courtesy of Visit Pensacola
For a serious case of furniture envy, take a one-mile detour northeast to another downtown shopping mecca: Duh for Garden and Home. Can’t stuff a hand-carved armoire, plush chaise lounge, or cascading shell chandelier into your car? The store can deliver it to you. Or you can choose from plenty of unique items that are easy to stash in your suitcase. Fall in love with found objects from around the world, from Turkish towels to leather flyswatters, before you even know what they are. Duh even offers a new French-bistro-style restaurant, Jo’s, along with men’s and women’s clothing, stationery, jewelry, and many more items that evoke a luxurious lifestyle. Shoppers won’t want their time in the serene sixteen-thousand-square-foot space to end. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 85
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This page left: Pensacola’s craft beer scene has grown in recent years, with Perfect Plain Brewing Company the latest addition to a collection of local breweries and bars. Photo by Steven Gray, courtesy of Perfect Plain This page right: Executive chef Alex McPhail at Restaurant IRON creates refined Southern cuisine with coastal flair. Photo courtesy of Restaurant IRON Opposite: Visitors can climb the 177 steps at the historic Pensacola Lighthouse and Museum, built in 1859, for a grand panoramic view. Photo courtesy of Visit Pensacola
Head back to Palafox to hone your cooking skills in a class at So Gourmet & Kitchenry or unwind Cirque du Soleil–style in an aerial yoga class at Pure Pilates. You can learn more about Pensacola’s nearly five-hundred-year history under Spanish, French, and British rule (Pensacola is known as the City of Five Flags), during a self-guided tour of buildings and museums in the nearby Historic Pensacola Village.
offers tangy jalapeño margaritas and consistently good tapas and entrées. Creative cocktails, stylish salads, and fresh fried oysters are only a few of the favorites at Restaurant IRON. Catch one of the best sunset views on the bay at casual Jaco’s Bayfront Bar and Grille. The west-facing patio is the perfect place to enjoy a cold glass of wine and a warm Bella Mushroom Stack, which lies on a bed of pesto risotto and is topped with Kalamata olives, feta, and tomato cream sauce.
When shopping and sightseeing stir your appetite, Gulf-to-table restaurants await you on every block. Try the tasty mini tuna tacos on a bed of lump-crab guacamole at Nom Sushi Izakaya. Or grab an open-faced Spanish crab melt sandwich, homemade soup, and sweet soda bread at Carmen’s Lunch Bar, which When the streetlights turn on, Palafox continues to hum with family and adult was recently profiled in Forbes magazine. activities. Enjoy a production at the historic Both are intimate venues with impressive Saenger Theatre or a big-name concert at menus. From an outdoor table, you might the small venue Vinyl Music Hall. Impress Its upscale ambience is similar to that catch a glimpse of a horse-drawn carriage, (or embarrass) your spouse, kids, and friends the Pensacola Pedal Trolley, or a group of of New York City’s swanky SoHo, so it’s no by hopping on a mechanical bull at Wild Segway riders gliding past Plaza Ferdinand Saloon, or challenge your brain by wonder that SoGo is the nickname given Greg’s VII, where Andrew Jackson was sworn in solving clues in one of three themed escape to Palafox’s shopping and dining district. rooms at Escape on Palafox. as territorial governor. For Southern cuisine with a contemporary twist, head a few blocks west to Union Public House. Signature dishes include grouper and shrimp corn dogs and mouthwatering wild boar sloppy joes. Diners wanting grab-and-go gourmet options can swing by the silver Airstream-style food trucks at Al Fresco on the corner of Main and Palafox Streets. For fancier dinner fare, make reservations at Jackson’s Steakhouse or Global Grill, which 86 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
The bass is always pumping at Blend Lounge, which connects to World of Beer. If beer is your beverage of choice, quench your thirst at one of the local breweries, including the newest, Perfect Plain Brewing Company on Garden Street. Wine lovers can kick back in the breezeway at the Wine Bar, where street musicians’ tunes often echo down the arched tunnel of bricks.
A “GLAMPING” RETREAT Nestled among the cotton fields, rolling farmlands, and longleaf pines in nearby Milton is a swank sanctuary called Coldwater Gardens. Named after the spring-fed creek that runs along its eastern border, the eco-agro-tourism resort boasts 360 acres that include sprawling gardens, a luxurious lodge, cushy cabins, and “glamping” (short for “glamorous camping”) tents. The lodge’s clean, contemporary lines evoke the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright, who happened to be a close family friend of the owner. A mod treehouse-style cabin even has a hot tub on its deck, and the glamping-area bathhouse won a
prestigious state award for its dapper design. The six-hundred-square-foot cabins have mod furnishings, open kitchens, spacious bathrooms, generous screened-in front porches, geothermal heat and air-conditioning, comfortable king-size beds, pullout sofas, instant hot water, and landscaped yards. From three of the cottages, guests can enjoy a fiery sunset over a cotton field.
BEACHES
The quiet getaway, which has managed to maintain a low profile in the rural North Santa Rosa community, is the perfect place to escape digital overload, though Wi-Fi is always available. Only four miles away is the Adventures Unlimited Outdoor Center, where you can traverse a challenging ropes course, soar over treetops on about a mile of zip lines, or head down the water in rental canoes and tubes.
Trying to determine which location has squeakier sand, bigger dunes, or the best spot to sprawl out on a beach towel is impossible and probably unnecessary, since picture-perfect places abound along the Emerald Coast, as the area is called. But, if you drive over the Destin Pass, you’ll almost certainly see water with clear turquoise color and clarity only the Caribbean can rival.
Landlocked beach lovers shouldn’t have to settle for ocean-sound mobile apps and seashell screensavers. It’s time to take a trip to some of the award-winning beaches of Pensacola, Navarre, Fort Walton Beach, and Destin—all of which are still relatively wellkept secrets.
From the top of the pass, look north to catch a glimpse of the many boats that drop anchor on Crab Island, the famous underwater sandbar that used to be an island. Floating on the water’s surface during summertime is Crab Island Water Park, an inflatable playground that kids love. Destin’s Big Kahuna’s Water & Adventure Park is also a family favorite with a lazy river, a wave pool, and forty play areas. Popular watersports are available for rent everywhere. Options include stand-up paddleboarding, parasailing, paragliding, surfing, scuba diving, snorkeling, and sailing. Adrenaline seekers can experience hydroflight, one of the latest trends in watersports, on a Flyboard at Destin Power Boats and Fort Walton Beach’s Power Up Watersports. The water-propelled hoverboards take riders on a thrilling excursion as high as thirty feet above the water. Of course, even sunny Florida has its rainy days. When bad weather occurs, consider roaming the 350,000-square-foot military and aerospace museum in Pensacola. The National Naval Aviation Museum displays more than 150 restored aircraft, and kids can even hop into the cockpit of a retired Blue Angels F/A-18 Hornet. The oldest and largest of its kind, the museum is among the most visited in Florida, and admission is free. Interact with dolphins at the Gulfarium Marine Adventure Park in Fort Walton Beach or charter a dolphin cruise with one of many operators, including V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 87
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Destin Snorkel. Deep-sea fishing adventures are also popular. The Gulf is known for its savory red snapper, so head out during snapper season in early summer to catch fish you can cook in your upscale Sky Home’s kitchen at Pensacola Beach’s Portofino Island Resort. Other stylish places to stay include The Henderson in Destin and the Hilton Pensacola Beach, which offers a bountiful Sunday brunch. For live music, cold adult beverages, and an island vibe, swing by the Sandshaker Lounge on Pensacola Beach, which claims to be the home of the original Bushwacker cocktail. Or, sit under one of many thatched roofs at Navarre Beach’s Juana’s Pagodas, which is also a hot spot for sandy volleyball games and watercraft rentals. Beach restaurants can sometimes be hit or miss, but here are some locals’ recommendations: TC’s Front Porch open-air café, a converted gas station in Navarre; Destin’s Louisiana Lagniappe, the Donut Hole, and Dewey Destin’s seafood, popular for its juicy fish sandwiches; Fat Clemenza’s brick-oven pizzeria in Miramar Beach; and The Grand Marlin in Pensacola Beach. If you can’t get enough of the fresh seafood, stop in the spacious seafood market Joe Patti’s in downtown Pensacola to have some shipped to your home—not that you will ever want your Northwest Florida vacation to end!
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Emerald
THE
DESTIN TO PANAMA CITY BEACH By Sallie W. Boyles
COAST SHINES
Of all the places so joyfully explored and then shared within the pages of VIE, Florida’s Emerald Coast, our home base, forever shines in our eyes. Breathtaking scenery and fabulous ways to enjoy life exist right outside our doorstep, from Panama City Beach to Destin, and the only way to see and experience as much as possible is to dive right in.
Left: The Pearl in Rosemary Beach offers charming boutique accommodations and amenities, including a private pool and beach, a restaurant, and a rooftop lounge. Photo courtesy of The Pearl Far left: Each summer, locals and tourists gather on Pensacola Beach to watch the annual air show put on by the Blue Angels, the U.S. Navy flight demonstration squadron. Photo courtesy of Visit Pensacola
MOTHER NATURE’S FINEST WORK
lifestyle, but the intention to preserve nature also means that the main attractions—beaches, state parks, and forests—remain unspoiled.
At the heart of this region, twenty-six miles of powdery white beaches along the Gulf of Mexico, repeatedly glorified as Mother Nature’s finest work, remained largely overlooked until visionaries put South Walton County, Florida, on the map in the 1980s. Seaside, thoughtfully designed with architecture to evoke the beach cottage town of bygone years, was the area’s first New Urbanist community. Branded as Scenic Highway 30-A (or just 30-A), the stretch boasts sixteen coastal neighborhoods, old and new, and each emanates a distinct character and charm. Eco-friendly planning with ways to get around on foot and by bike not only facilitate a slower pace and village
Rivaling the Caribbean and Mediterranean, the beaches of South Walton and throughout Northwest Florida have crowned the lists of numerous travel guides. From late spring through early fall, the clear emerald-tinted waters invite swimming, snorkeling, and floating for hours on end. Tranquil waves near the shore further entice first-timers and pros alike to grab Jet Skis, kayaks, sailboats, paddleboards, and other water toys. Despite much publicity, South Walton’s most exceptional phenomena—fifteen coastal dune lakes—often remain hidden in plain sight because people don’t realize how rare and awesome they are. Averaging five V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 91
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prevalence of dolphins and big-game fish in this part of the Gulf. Nicknamed the World’s Luckiest Fishing Village, Destin is remarkably close to deep, deep water. Upon entering the Gulf of Mexico via East Pass from Choctawhatchee Bay, the clear, desert-like shallows and white, sandy bottom transition quickly to rocky outcroppings and dark silt, a welcoming environment for amberjack, mackerel, porgy, snapper, and triggerfish. The real excitement, however, occurs twenty-four miles out at
For a one-of-a-kind, in-or-on-the-water experience, hop aboard a boat, a Jet Ski, or a SUP and head to Choctawhatchee Bay, immediately north of Destin Bridge, to Crab Island. At one time, the topographical feature was a tiny, crab-shaped island. Today, it’s an immense sandbar beneath about three feet of water and a heavenly spot for swimming, floating, shelling, fishing, and socializing.
Island is also a misnomer for Shell Island in Panama City Beach. Technically, the seven-mile barrier between the Gulf of Mexico and Saint Andrew Bay is a peninsula best reached By no coincidence, the YOLO (an acronym The clear, desert-like shallows and white, by boat (pontoon rentals are popular) or for “you only live once”) Board originated in Santa Rosa Beach. “The dune lakes not sandy bottom transition quickly to rocky ferry. Pack the necessities—food, water, sunscreen—to visit this utterly wild sanconly offer a constant inspiration to share outcroppings and dark silt, a welcoming tuary. Instead of concession stands, you’ll with our many visitors but also, for me, encounter snowy sand dunes, a coastal scrub a way to continually develop options to environment for amberjack, mackerel, forest, and an inland lake, all supporting get out and explore them to their fullest,” porgy, snapper, and triggerfish. many different species: deer, ghost crabs, says Tom Losee, YOLO Board cofounder. loggerhead and green sea turtles, and even He also founded RUN/SUP, a company the Choctawhatchee beach mouse. that encourages people to enjoy the gifts of what is known locally as the Edge, where the continature while getting fit. Along with renting SUPs to To combine nature with shopping and dining, the nental shelf plunges to four hundred feet. In those locals and visitors, RUN/SUP provides cross-training Timpoochee Trail may be just your speed. Eighteen depths, marlin, billfish, grouper, tuna, and wahoo and maps out courses. “We are truly blessed to have and a half miles long, the paved bike path, named in congregate. Many anglers have set world records in such a stunning example of nature’s beauty in our own memory of a Euchee Indian chief, runs parallel to Scenic Destin, home to the Cobia World Championships backyard,” Tom adds. Highway 30-A from Dune Allen Beach to Inlet Beach. (March to May), the Crab Cruncher Classic Bikers who stay on the trail not only pass through all of (April), Sandestin’s Emerald Coast Blue Marlin Another unique happenstance of nature, this one 30-A’s villages but also reach dune lakes, state parks with Classic ( June), and the Summer Open Fishing involving the continental shelf (the underwater trails and camping, and beach access points. Tournament (August). ledge that borders every land mass), explains the
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GLORIOUS FOOD AND SPIRITS Gone are the days when the menu choices in Northwest Florida boiled down to one question: fried, broiled, or boiled? An invasion of talented chefs, gathering inspiration from the abundance and variety of fresh land and sea ingredients, now pepper the region with innovative dishes. Many blend insights from traveling and studying abroad with traditional Southern recipes they’ve known since childhood. Different venues add flavor as well, so your wellrounded culinary exploration must incorporate a range of eateries: food trucks, beachside cafés, and fine dining establishments. When on the go, The Meltdown on 30A, parked on Seaside’s Airstream Row (or food truck central), makes a gourmet grilled cheese sandwich for which you’ll want to wait in line. If you’re wondering who’s responsible for such decadence, the answer is acclaimed Chef Jim Shirley, owner of several other top restaurants in the area, including the Great Southern Café and The Bay. For a crowd-pleasing pick, Bud & Alley’s, a Seaside icon, is hard to beat. Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner in an idyllic spot that overlooks the Gulf of Mexico, the hospitable eatery (owned by Dave Rauschkolb, a local who’s regularly on-site)
welcomes casual diners to take a seat, even in their wet bathing suits. Bud & Alley’s—which also has an adjacent Taco Bar and Pizza Bar—was named to Florida Trend’s Golden Spoon Awards Hall of Fame in 2017. Can’t decide what to order? Go for the crab cake, which is oh-so delicate and mouthwatering! The name may prompt you to go elsewhere, but count on Stinky’s Fish Camp in Santa Rosa Beach for fresh-from-the-Gulf, expertly prepared fare. “All ways,” a theme at Stinky’s, means that entrées, including the fresh fish of the day, are offered multiple ways, and selections, like the oyster bar’s amusing variations, are quite imaginative and rich in flavor. Of all the restaurants in Florida, only Seagar’s Prime Steaks and Seafood (Sandestin) and Cuvee 30A (Inlet Beach) received Wine Spectator’s 2017 Best of Award of Excellence for their representations of wine-growing regions and quality presentations.
Above: The area from Destin to Panama City Beach is truly blessed with incredibly talented chefs who prepare fresh Gulf of Mexico seafood at a wide selection of awardwinning restaurants. Opposite: Western Lake at Grayton Beach State Park is one of fifteen rare coastal dune lakes found along the beaches of Walton County. Photos courtesy of Visit South Walton
“When Bud & Alley’s first opened in January 1986,” says Rauschkolb, “there were only five restaurants, including us, on 30-A. It’s been an honor to be one of the pioneers of the culinary revolution that is now a rich tapestry of outstanding restaurants and quick-bite offerings. Of course, it’s wonderful for those people visiting here but even more so for those of us who get to live here. With every new opening, it always seems like another jewel in the crown of South Walton. One thing is for sure: opening a restaurant on 30-A doesn’t guarantee success, as the quality bar is quite high, and we certainly all benefit from that.” Annual celebrations of food, wine, and other spirits also cultivate refreshing trends that raise the bar for deliciousness. Wine reigns at Sandestin Wine Festival at the Village of Baytowne Wharf (April), South Walton Beaches Wine & Food Festival at Grand Boulevard’s Town Center in Sandestin (April), Rosemary Beach Uncorked (October), and Seeing Red Wine Festival in Seaside (November). Craft beer is the star at UNwineD, a March festival at Aaron Bessant Park in Panama City Beach. Beer aficionados also love October on the Gulf with the Baytowne Wharf Beer Fest at Sandestin and Oktoberfest in Panama City Beach. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 93
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BEACH MUSIC Where there’s a beach, there’s music. On the Emerald Coast, live bands play yearround, and some of the biggest names in music perform at noteworthy annual festivals. Panama City Beach hosts two chart-topping three-day events: Pepsi Gulf Coast Jam is a country music festival on Labor Day weekend with Grammywinning headliners, industry icons, and up-and-coming acts. Meanwhile, SandJam (yes, the party is in the sand), premiering in April 2018, will present live performances from alternative rock bands (think Imagine Dragons and Kings of Leon). Festivals sell out to attendees from all over the country and abroad, so be sure to purchase tickets and reserve rooms in advance. “One of the reasons I started these festivals in Panama City Beach is that I consider this a true destination,” says Rendy Lovelady, executive producer of both events. “When we do surveys, people tell us they come for the beach, the food, and the music. And we attract a gumbo of people who want to hear different kinds of music—alternative, country, and singer-songwriter. This region is also a real melting pot of talent.” A talent component of both festivals heightens the excitement among fans and performers by showcasing new, original artists who compete on the stages of regional venues in the weeks and days leading up to the main event. The winning act then opens the concert on the final day. Competitors from all over participate, although many are local. “More and more, this area’s becoming a real incubator for new, up-and-coming acts,” Lovelady notes. “Panama City Beach is definitely a live music city. I live in Nashville and can tell you there are as many possibilities in this area to enjoy great live music.” And don’t miss the 30A Songwriters Festival, which brings many of those Nashville songwriters who have penned hit tunes for huge artists to the beaches of South Walton for intimate performances each January.
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“We have some really great artists down here,” Hinds says. “If acquiring original art is important to you, or if you’re looking for that one piece that does something good for your soul each time you look at it, then there’s a good chance you’ll find it—or the artist to create it for you—here. That said, it’s easy to meet and talk with us about our work.” In addition to visiting artists and seeing their work in galleries, collectors have their choice of art festivals: Art in the Park (WaterColor) and ArtsQuest (Sandestin) in spring; the West Indies Market (Rosemary Beach) from spring to midsummer; Baytowne Art Walk (Village of Baytowne Wharf ) and Festival of the Arts (Destin) in late summer and fall. Rather than displaying canvases, Digital Graffiti (Alys Beach) in May colors the town’s white walls with a kaleidoscopic nighttime light show.
COTTAGES, CASTLES, INNS, AND RESORTS SHOPPING BY THE SEASHORE Northwest Florida has also become a shopping destination to rival any great city for art, fashion, food and spirits, and much more. For all the popular stores and brands, you could spend an entire day at Destin Commons, Grand Boulevard and Silver Sands Premium Outlets in Miramar Beach, or Pier Park in Panama City Beach, but you should also visit the locally owned establishments. Independent merchants are hallmarks of communities like WaterColor, Seaside, Seacrest, Rosemary Beach, and Grayton Beach. Even if shopping is not your passion, a gem or two will undoubtedly catch your eye. Assorted treasures include high-fashion footwear, trendy accessories, designer apparel, handcrafted jewelry, children’s fine clothing, sporting equipment, amusing toys, cool souvenirs, Southern gourmet treats, one-of-a-kind furniture, coastal home accessories, and original art. The Emerald Coast is home to a diverse community of artists. Don’t miss the gallery of Mary Hong, who uses glass shards to create mesmerizing mosaics reflecting local scenery. Andy Saczynski is a contemporary mixed-media assemblage artist who recycles objects like wood, paint, and musical instruments for his whimsical and coastal-inspired work. Gordie Hinds paints in a nostalgic, Hemingwayesque style to capture snapshots in time, especially life on the Gulf, as well as his love of baseball, dogs, and the great outdoors.
Variety also pertains to the area’s lodging. Pitch a tent at one of the beautiful state parks or get pampered at the best hotel. A rental could be a quaint cottage, a chic condominium, or a veritable castle by the sea. When choosing, compare the advantages of making your reservation directly with a homeowner versus a property manager. At Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort, for instance, hotel and condo guests (those who book via Sandestin) receive generous access to amenities and other perks. Notably, the Baytowne Marina at Sandestin also rents boat slips with resort privileges. For the ultimate luxury home away from home, pristine Alys Beach is the neighborhood for you. Its spacious homes and vacation units are well appointed and perfect for a peaceful, isolated retreat yearround. Stop by charming Fonville Press for a coffee and breakfast before spending the day walking along a private beach or enjoying your cabana at the exclusive Caliza Pool. Shopping is on tap at NEAT Bottle Shop and Tasting Room, Ann Hartley boutique, and the Alys Shoppe, which is packed with high-end designer clothing, accessories, home goods, and Alys Beach merchandise.
This page: From Pier Park in Panama City Beach to Destin Commons, there is no shortage of great shopping in the area. The Alys Shoppe, pictured here, offers high-end designer clothing, accessories, and more. Photo by Brett Bulthuis Opposite left: Since 2013, the annual Pepsi Gulf Coast Jam festival has brought awardwinning country music artists to Panama City Beach for incredible concerts and fun. Opposite right: Conservation Park in Panama City Beach includes boardwalks and miles of flatwoods trails that are perfect for hiking and wildlife viewing. Photos courtesy of Visit Panama City Beach
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Although a family-friendly theme plays along the coast, some retreats, such as The Pearl in Rosemary Beach, cater to grown-ups. By piling on the luxury in an intimate setting of only fifty-five rooms and suites, the elegant hotel, complete with spa, pool, grill, rooftop bar, and private beach, earns numerous accolades. A few distinctions bestowed in 2017 include Four Stars from Forbes Travel Guide, Four Diamonds from AAA, and Reader’s Choice #8 of Top Hotels in Florida from Condé Nast Traveler.
A DESTINATION FOR ALL SEASONS Every season in Northwest Florida has its own set of virtues. Summer is the best time for swimming and diving into activities; everything is open. Quite a few visitors fall in love with autumn and spring, when temperatures and humidity levels moderate, creating the most delightful setting for outdoor festivals. Winter, too, wins the hearts of those who treasure the deep-blue skies, the peaceful, quiet beaches, and the calm that descends after the holidays. That’s precisely why so many lovers of nature, food, music, and art become permanent residents; they were once vacationers who couldn’t bear the thought of leaving.
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East THE
SMALL-TOWN FLORIDA ON THE COAST By Jordan Staggs
END
Unlike the bustling towns of Pensacola, Destin, and Panama City Beach, the eastern end of our ’Cola to ’Cola guide offers a chance to slow down, get to know Old Florida, and experience the natural landscapes the way they were intended—unspoiled and beautiful.
WELCOME TO MEXICO BEACH
condos and busy streets, but the people of Mexico Beach prefer to call their town “The Unforgettable Coast”—as memories made there will last a lifetime.
These days, it’s hard to find a place where you can truly get away from it all. Well, there is a place where things move at a slower pace, where there are no traffic lights, the sand on the beach is white as snow, and the Gulf waters are warm and clean. That place is Mexico Beach on Northwest Florida’s Gulf Coast.
Once you arrive in town, check into your headquarters for some R and R. This might be a charming house or a condo rental near the pristine beaches, unique Gulf-front accommodations, such as the El Governor Motel, the Driftwood Inn, Buena Vista Motel, or Gulf View Motel, or even a campground for those traveling by RV or packing tents to enjoy the great outdoors. The El Governor RV Park and Rustic Sands Resort Campground offer visitors an even better chance to connect with the land.
Situated just about an hour east of Panama City Beach and an easy drive from the Northwest Florida Beaches International Airport, Mexico Beach is a far cry from a tourist entertainment mecca. Life is more laid-back there, with quiet beaches through much of the year and summers that make the uptick in visitors just seem like one big community coming out to enjoy the sun. Though you won’t find any huge outdoor shopping centers or novelty attractions, that doesn’t mean Mexico Beach lacks entertainment. The piece of unspoiled nature from Mexico Beach and heading east has been dubbed the “Forgotten Coast,” thanks to the area’s disdain for high-rise
On the Unforgettable Coast, you’ll also connect with each other. This is the place for people who love to spend sunny days lounging on the beach, talking and laughing with friends and family, playing in the waves, building sandcastles, and riding bikes. Watersports such as stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, and more are popular, with rentals available at Crazy Waverunners and Parasail behind the El Governor Motel and Happy Ours Kayak & Bike Outpost in nearby Port Saint Joe.
Opposite left: An aerial view of the pool and rooftop lounge at The Pearl in Rosemary Beach Photo courtesy of The Pearl Opposite right: Anglers can take advantage of four exceptional fishing piers in Panama City Beach. The identical Russell-Fields Pier and M.B. Miller Pier are often referred to as City Pier and County Pier, respectively, while Saint Andrews State Park has Tiller Pier on the Gulf side as well as a fishing pier on the Grand Lagoon. Photo courtesy of Visit Panama City Beach V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 99
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Kingfish Tournament, bring teams from all over the country to try their luck at With several protected wildlife areas and state parks nearby, Mexico Beach is also the best catches and cash prizes. All year long, Mexico Beach Marina is available a perfect home base for those seeking to unplug and spend time reconnecting with to help with rentals, charters, and fishing gear. Mother Nature. The town is surrounded by eleven stops on the Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail, where notable species including snowy and piping plovers, bald After a long day on the beach, shopping at locally owned boutiques, or enjoyeagles, and many more can be seen. Paddling through crystal clear springs and hiking all the outdoor fun in Mexico Beach, it’s time to grab a bite! A must-stop is ing along sandy flatwoods trails are pastimes enjoyed at many area parks. Econfina Killer Seafood, whose famous fish tacos and special Simmerin’ Sauce have gained Creek, Wakulla Springs State Park, Saint George Island State Park, Dead Lakes national recognition—you’ll just have to Recreation Area, Saint Vincent National try them for yourself to see why. (You’ll Wildlife Refuge, and Saint Marks National also want to snag a basket of hush pupWildlife Refuge are all within an easy drive This is the place for people who love to pies while enjoying this laid-back coastal of Mexico Beach. These and more offer visitors the chance to explore a variety of spend sunny days lounging on the beach, dive.) The Fish House is another great stop for local fare, with seafood baskets ecosystems—from tidal pools and beaches talking and laughing with friends and and Southern cuisine that will make your to pine forests and marshlands. mouth water. Toucan’s of Mexico Beach family, playing in the waves, building offers the best view of the Gulf of Mexico, The anglers in the family are certainly sandcastles, and riding bikes. with beach favorites and boat drinks in for a treat, as the Gulf waters and to match. Meanwhile, Mango Marley’s, lakes near Mexico Beach are teeming Crazy Beach Pizza, and 40th Street Pizza with wildlife and some of the nation’s are great family-friendly stops. Shoobies, MB Sweets and Treats, and Tommy T’s best sportfishing. Red snapper, grouper, king and Spanish mackerels, sailfish, are the preferred dessert locales—the latter also has an arcade and a gift shop. For cobia, lionfish, and wahoo are just a handful of the species that can be found coffee and breakfast, make your way to Sharon’s Cafe (be sure to try the homejust off the beach. This is in part thanks to the Mexico Beach Artificial Reef made biscuits!), Graba Java Internet Café, or Castaways Southern Cuisine. Of Association (MBARA), which has installed nearly two hundred human-made course, if you want to cook up your own fresh catch of the day right in your vacareef sites since its inception in 1997. Annual summer tournaments, such as the tion rental, the Shell Shack has you covered with fresh shrimp, fish, and more. GollyWhopper Classic, the Mexico Beach Offshore Classic, and the MBARA 102 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Those who visit Mexico Beach almost always return, craving the simple life at the beach that the town offers. The chance to spend quality time with those you love, all while enjoying some of the most beautiful beaches in the world? It’s the perfect recipe for an unforgettable vacation.
ACROSS THE BORDER Mexico Beach is just the beginning for those searching for a nostalgic Old Florida beach feel on their next trip. The little beach town also lies on the edge of the central time zone, while just across it lies neighboring Port Saint Joe. (The two towns partner to throw an epic New Year’s Eve celebration yearly, during which guests can enjoy free shuttles to local bars and even ring in the new year twice in one night!) Port Saint Joe is a little bigger than Mexico Beach but no less charming. Take in the breathtaking panoramic views of Saint Joseph Bay before you dive into this Florida fishing town and enjoy eclectic shops, dining, and history—the first Florida Constitution was signed here in 1838. “I love the appreciation for and celebration of nature, the slower pace of life, and the genuine and friendly people here,” says Kelli Godwin, executive director of the Gulf County Tourist Development Council. “This is the way life is meant to be lived; people here have it figured out. The connection with nature seems to keep them grounded and satisfied, and the area is full of hospitality. We’re proud of our home and are bursting at the seams to share it with others who appreciate it. Visitors often mention the friendliness of the locals as a top draw to our area.” Take a stroll through Port Saint Joe’s historic downtown shopping district to explore locally owned stores, restaurants, and art galleries. Libations and live music are never in short supply here, with a modest but fun evening and nightlife scene that includes places such as the Haughty Heron, the Thirsty Goat, St. Joe Bar, Paradise Craft House and Grill, Lookout Lounge, and Shipwreck Raw Bar. Port Saint Joe boasts docks that are available to the public, along with the Port Saint Joe Marina. A big draw in the summer and early fall months is snorkeling
This page and opposite: Mexico Beach, known as “The Unforgettable Coast,” is a relaxing alternative to the busier beach destinations to the west. Its charms include a collection of locally owned shops and restaurants, three miles of white-sand beach, abundant fishing and wildlife, and family activities. Photos courtesy of Mexico Beach CDC V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 103
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and playing in the Saint Joseph Bay, a natural outdoor playground that’s perfect for adventurers to explore. Some visitors also like to dig up succulent scallops and cook their haul later that same day—it doesn’t get any fresher! Climate change and fluctuations in local waterways have made scalloping trickier than it used to be, so the season varies each year, and there’s a limit on how many you may harvest (to keep the population thriving). Oyster farmers and fishermen in the area have also seen changes, but the area remains true to its Old Florida fishing town roots and celebrates each year with the annual Oyster Cook-Off in nearby Apalachicola in Franklin County.
Above left: Don’t miss a photo op in “the big chair” at the Mexico Beach Welcome Center! Photo courtesy of Mexico Beach CDC Above right: Kayaking or paddleboarding through the Dead Lakes Recreation Area gives adventurers a chance to experience another side of Northwest Florida’s natural landscape— prehistoric marshes and waterways teeming with wildlife. Photo courtesy of Visit Gulf County 104 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Nature is still king here. “Gulf County has left much of its natural beauty intact and allows for a true Florida experience,” says Godwin. “Water surrounds us and is a way of life here. We have beaches with different characteristics and personalities along the Gulf of Mexico. Saint Joseph Bay is a sanctuary for an abundance of wildlife and a playground for outdoor lovers. Indian Pass Lagoon boasts beautiful grass and marsh flats. The Intracoastal Waterway connects to tranquil Lake Wimico. The mysterious Dead Lakes are otherworldly, with prehistoric-like cypress trees and wildlife.” Paddleboarding, kayaking, horseback riding, hiking, and mountain biking are popular pastimes for locals and visitors alike. The Dead Lakes lie north of the coastal towns in secluded Wewahitchka (a Native American name meaning “water eyes”). This small community is also known for something unexpected—the country’s best tupelo honey. You thought it was from Mississippi? It’s a common misconception, but the sweet delicacy is so named for the tupelo gum trees
that grow along the Apalachicola and Chipola Rivers. Other states might claim to make tupelo honey, but the real thing is only commercially produced in Northwest Florida. Skilled beekeepers extract the sugary substance and jar it raw, unprocessed, and not mixed with any other substances—“the way honey should be,” according to local producer L.L. Lanier & Son’s Tupelo Honey. Wewahitchka has celebrated with an annual Tupelo Honey Festival since 1941 and even holds a Tupelo Honey Queen competition (called the Miss Tupelo Pageant today) each year.
Other states might claim to make tupelo honey, but the real thing is only commercially produced in Northwest Florida. For those seeking a Florida golf retreat in the area, the St. Joseph Bay Golf Club offers a well-maintained course with incredible scenery. This eighteen-hole par72 course is fun for players of all handicaps, but be prepared—water features on fourteen holes and local wildlife, such as bobcats and hawks, can make it a challenge. The club also has a driving range, a restaurant, and a pro shop that offers rentals if you left your clubs at home. Venture a little farther east past the Saint Vincent National Wildlife Refuge, and you’ll find yourself in the charming historic town of Apalachicola. Yes, it’s an unusual
name with Native American origins meaning “the land or people beyond.” Locals are proud of their home—and so should be anyone who enjoys the brilliant white-sand beaches that line the Northwest Florida Gulf Coast. That dazzling sugary sand is all thanks to the Apalachicola River, which, at the end of the Ice Age, carried quartz crystals south from the Appalachians and deposited them into Apalachicola Bay, where finely ground crystals were then spread by the tides and washed onto shore. A bed-and-breakfast is the way to go for accommodations near Apalachicola, where guests can experience true Southern hospitality and coastal charm. The Coombs Inn & Suites, Blue Moon Inn of Apalachicola, and House of Tartts Guest House each has its own merits, and all are located in the historic district near downtown. Although visitors love to see the bay views, docks, and fishing boats, Downtown Apalachicola is a treat. Art lovers will find some quirky but high-end galleries and
Voyager shops, such as the Artemis Gallery, Apalachicola Sponge Company & Smokehouse Antiques, Downtown Books & Purl, Katie McFarland Pottery, Bowery Art Gallery, Richard Bickel Photography, Sea Oats Art Gallery, Market Street Antiques, and many more. Dining mostly celebrates local seafood, as expected. Some popular stops include the Owl Cafe, Caroline’s River Dining, Up the Creek Raw Bar, Boss Oyster, Hole in the Wall Seafood, Tamara’s Café, and Gormley’s at the Gibson Inn. The Old Time Soda Fountain is a quaint dessert and souvenir destination, while the Tap Room at the Owl Cafe also serves up an impressive selection of local beers in an intimate pub atmosphere. Saint George Island, the barrier island that creates Apalachicola Bay, is a quiet beach retreat that many locals will visit for the weekend. This thin strip of land contains private vacation rentals, two inns, and a campground, along with two state parks and a charming lighthouse. The Cape Saint George Light offers admission each month on full-moon evenings for guests to take in panoramic views of the Gulf, the bay, and Saint George Sound. Saint George Island consistently ranks in lists as one of the top beaches in the country.
VISIT MEXICOBEACH.COM, VISITGULF.COM, AND FLORIDASFORGOTTENCOAST.COM TO LEARN MORE OR PLAN YOUR TRIP TODAY!
No matter which community or beach you visit, Northwest Florida’s Gulf Coast has something for everyone, from COLA 2 COLA®! Photo courtesy of Visit Panama City Beach
CELEBRATE #InGulf
WINTER Christmas On The Coast Chili Cook-Off Celebrate Twice NYE Celebration Snowbird Appreciation Golf Tournament Third Thursday’s At The Port Theatre St Joseph Bay Buffer Preserve Bay Day
SPRING Salt Air Farmer’s Market (Feb – Dec) Breeze By The Bay 5k and 10k First Friday’s (April – Sept) Tupelo Honey Festival Plein Air Paint-Out
SUMMER July 4th Celebration Forgotten Coast Sea Turtle Festival MBARA Fishing Tournament Bayou Bash Fishing Tournament
FALL Florida Scallop and Music Festival Blast On The Bay Songwriters Festival Ghost On The Coast Bow Wow Bash St Joseph Peninsula State Park Appreciation Day St Joseph Bay Buffer Preserve Bay Day PORT ST JOE • CAPE SAN BLAS • ST JOE BEACH • WEWAHITCHKA • INDIAN PASS
FOR MORE DETAILS ON ALL OF GULF COUNTY EVENTS, CALL (850) 229-7800 OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.VISITGULF.COM/EVENTS
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white BY PAT RICHARDSON
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SAILING NORTH TO POLAR REGIONS WILL TAKE YOU TO ANOTHER WORLD. The turquoise-tinted icebergs, the polar bear’s yellow-tinged fur, the sugary whiteness of fresh snow, the washday-bright whitecaps dancing across the steel-blue ocean, the flower heads of cotton grass, and the shroud-like clouds that transform into a neon Northern Lights extravaganza—all these variations of white are no more than a small sample of the polar-region palette. There are many other memorable sights to see on an expedition voyage sailing north of the Arctic Circle to East Greenland, remote Jan Mayen Island, and northern Norway. This is a trip tailor-made for adventurous travelers; but Hurtigruten isn’t a cruise line, and this is not a cruise, so don’t expect butler service, Broadway-style stage shows, or bedtime chocolates on your pillow. Do expect to see unforgettable natural wonders galore, up close and personal.
Left: A cruise around Greenland will offer many incredible sights, such as this majestic arched iceberg. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 109
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S Fram was built in 2007 as an expedition vessel and is named after the wooden ship of the same name, built in 1896 and used for pioneering explorer Roald Amundsen’s 1910–1912 expedition to the South Pole. While today’s Fram won’t cocoon you in the lap of luxury, you’ll find this intimate, 11,647-ton vessel a warm and welcoming base camp for your voyage of discovery. Its no-frills cabins and suites have all the facilities you need: comfortable beds, ample storage space, televisions, and en suite bathrooms. The inviting observation lounge has comfortable seating, panoramic views, floor-mounted telescopes, a library of itinerary-linked and fiction books, and a well-stocked full-service bar. In the restaurant, floor levels are tiered to ensure that every seat has a view, and there’s a small outdoor deck astern. Going hungry isn’t an option; breakfast and lunch are buffets with an extensive choice of hot and cold dishes to suit all tastes. Some dinners are also buffet style, while others are served at the table. There’s also an excellent choice of international wines to enjoy.
FROM THE OBSERVATION LOUNGE’S EXTENSIVE WINDOWS AND VARIOUS OUTSIDE VIEWPOINTS, YOU CAN WATCH A NONSTOP LIVE SHOW UNFOLD. Informative lectures from the onboard expedition team members and expert guest speakers will enrich your travel experience and put the destinations you visit into context. And, from the observation lounge’s extensive windows and various outside viewpoints, you can watch a nonstop live show unfold. It’s one that, if you’re lucky, will feature wildlife sightings— but because seeing wildlife in its natural habitat is not a ticketed event, there are no guarantees. Humpback, gray, bowhead, and beluga whales, orcas, and remarkable narwhals can be seen in Arctic waters, but you may never be near one when it surfaces. Nevertheless, do pack binoculars, because you may see walruses, seals, polar bears, Arctic hares, foxes, or wolves, and are very likely to see musk oxen, which are much too big to miss. In open waters, northern fulmars will often fly alongside the ship. You can be sure of seeing spectacular scenery. Greenland’s Scoresbysund fjord system is the world’s largest. Many of its mountains are dusted with snow
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Above: A Hurtigruten cruise ship just off the icy coast of Uummannaq Island in northwestern Greenland Photo by Hilde Foss/ Hurtigruten Left: The plight of the polar bear is well known as populations decrease due to climate change; however, you might catch a glimpse of them as you travel around Greenland and other Arctic areas.
or draped with glaciers, and some fjords are “paved” with pack ice. Most are dotted with icebergs, which, on close inspection, have an ethereal beauty. The landscape is Arctic tundra (a Finnish word meaning “treeless plain”), and with the ground frozen almost year-round, only mosses, lichens, and low-growing shrubs thrive. When the Fram anchors off uninhabited landing places and, from a tender, you step ashore to explore, you will also see jewellike clusters of tiny wildflowers growing with bright defiance. Most often, you will be stepping ashore in places with no dock or port facilities and no human inhabitants. After your northbound departure from Reykjavik and the next day’s first port of call at Isafjordur in Iceland, you won’t dock again for nine days, when you reach Norway’s Lofoten Islands. On the way there, you’ll anchor off Jan Mayen Island, home to an important meteorological station—where a warm welcome awaits you—and the world’s most northerly active volcano, Beerenberg, which explains this remote island’s lava-strewn landscape.
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ext, after a full day at sea, you’ll reach Norway, Hurtigruten’s homeland and the birthplace of the “fast route” (as hurtig ruten translates). It was founded in 1893 to carry people, mail, and produce between small communities on Norway’s west coast not easily accessed by road. That service still runs, as every day since 1936, a ship has left Bergen for the round-trip to Kirkenes and now carries almost four hundred thousand passengers each year. Not all are locals; many are tourists from all corners of the globe. With its expanding expedition fleet of ships designed for exploration, Hurtigruten sails that world from pole to pole. The scenery changes when you reach Norway, with its rugged shoreline, countless islands, majestic mountains, and deep fjords. The sight I think you’ll be happiest to see is trees, but there are also roads and cars, farms and fishing harbors, towns and villages, 112 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
churches, schools, shops, and brightly painted houses. After over a week with few signs of civilization, you’ll view them all with a fresh perspective. Having just encountered nature in the raw you will value society more and also appreciate that our planet is a complex system of cycles, rhythms, and harmonies. That is just one way this expedition voyage rewards those who take it. Are you ready to release your inner explorer?
HURTIGRUTEN.US
Left: Aerial view of the picturesque Lofoten Islands in northern Norway Below: Although sightings are unpredictable, you could see humpback, beluga, gray, or bowhead whales, along with orcas and narwhals, when cruising through the Arctic Circle.
A Cultural and Culinary Extravaganza!
Join us for world-class vintners, delectable bites, seated lunch, expert spirit purveyors, amazing auction items and an award-winning musical guest!
Kick-Off Fashion Lunch ~ Thursday, January 11, 2018 Bijoux Restaurant + Spirits
Vintner Dinners ~ Friday, February 16, 2018
Celebrity vintners and chefs in stunning homes and venues
Crescendo! Main Event ~ Sunday, February 18, 2018 Hilton Sandestin Beach Golf Resort & Spa
What CRESCENDO! Supports: • LINK UP program in conjunction with Carnegie Hall • Live orchestra performance for students including bus transportation • Musicians in Schools • Youth Orchestra
• Students4Free: 2 free student tickets with any adult preferred purchase • Arts in Medicine with Sacred Heart Hospital • Paint the Music Project for 3rd—8th graders in Okaloosa and Walton Counties
Tickets:
Benefiting:
SinfoniaGulfCoast.org | (850) 460-8800 Have Questions? Interested in being a Volunteer? Contact Elaine Tucker | ETucker@SinfoniaGulfCoast.org | (850) 460-8800
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17-18 Season Presenting Media Sponsor:
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BY GREG CAYEA
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ebster’s defines destination as “a place worthy of travel or an extended visit.” My definition is far simpler.
A destination is anywhere and everywhere. If it’s something we’ve never experienced and is full of laughter and good conversation, it’s going to be well worth the visit. The great news is that we’re entirely in control of all of it—where we go, how much we laugh, and the number of times we smile at a stranger on the street. We can shape a beautiful journey no matter where we are, even if it’s going across the street to the gas station. Have you ever asked the gas station attendant how many children she has or where she is from? Ever gotten a hot chocolate there and drunk it by the side of the highway? It sounds silly, but at the core of that last sentence lies my philosophy of travel: to create adventure, no matter the destination. The destination is everywhere, and the grass is always greenest where we stand. I can travel to Paris, but if I’m just going to stay at the Ritz on Place Vendôme, smile at nobody, and chat with the concierge in English about where I can take some fun selfies, then I might as well stay in Long Island and head to the mall to chat with the Urban Outfitters cashier. On a practical note, I could travel to Astoria, Queens—about ten miles from where I currently am—and venture out
to a Middle Eastern restaurant with three tables and no prices or menu that doesn’t even serve iced tea. That sounds like an adventure to me. Staycations have been some of the best getaways I’ve taken—and I humbly accredit myself as a professional traveler. Playing tourist in my own town always gives me a new perspective and a pleasant sense of naïveté that allows me to wander aimlessly with ignorance and enjoy even the most mundane attractions—like wax museums. In Los Angeles, my ex-hometown, I decided I would stay put and go to Ripley’s Believe It or Not! on Hollywood Boulevard, the most basic and touristy thing I could think of doing. I went with a friend whom I didn’t know very well, and we played stupid and acted as though it was the most magical tourist attraction on earth. It was amazing—one of the best times I had during my six-year tenure in that terribly superficial yet magnetic city on the sand.
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ut you say, “No! I want to go somewhere really new, far away, and learn about an entirely different culture, Greg!” I understand! Stop yelling! All I’m saying is that El Paso felt just as foreign to me as Buenos Aires for many reasons—so did going from New York City to San Diego or Detroit to Boulder or Miami to the Everglades. You don’t have to travel far to find a new culture. Sometimes we confuse wanting a fresh cultural experience with wanting excitement. Here’s a great trick I use no matter where I am: I wake up and ask myself, what could possibly make today fun? The answer always leads me somewhere new.
Opposite: Greg Cayea Photo by Mark Pallermo
Let’s assume for a moment that you are traveling to a new destination, like Machu Picchu or Glacier National Park or wherever. As most people do, I start off with a plan and do as much research as I can, but I only do that to have a few ideas to fall back on
I THEN LET GO OF EVERY SINGLE PLAN OR SITE I INTEND TO SEE AND GIVE IT A GO WITHOUT HAVING ANY STRATEGY OTHER THAN KEEPING MY EYE ON THE GOAL: ADVENTURE. if I’m not in a spur-of-the-moment mood. I then let go of every single plan or site I intend to see and give it a go without having any strategy other than keeping my eye on the goal: adventure. To start, I try to talk to as many people as I can—the guy at the café, the barista, the mom who is dropping her daughter off at college and sitting anxiously next to me, the guy making pancakes in my hostel, the front desk clerk from Italy, the street performers busking in the town plaza, the club promoters trying to get me to attend some horrid strip club that night and drop their name at the door. The equation is simple: the more words I exchange with people, the better time I will have. If that doesn’t work, I can always go to the Statue of Liberty or other local attraction.
HERE’S A GREAT TRICK I USE NO MATTER WHERE I AM: I WAKE UP AND ASK MYSELF, WHAT COULD POSSIBLY MAKE TODAY FUN? THE ANSWER ALWAYS LEADS ME SOMEWHERE NEW.
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find that I remember the most unexpected occurrences best. For instance, I don’t recall the Plaza Mayor in Madrid very well—I mean, it’s vivid, but I don’t have any interesting memories of anything that took place there. I do remember the tiny Irish pub off that side street where my buddy got plastered with some Scottish girl who nearly died on the sidewalk from extreme intoxication. (That was fun.) And at the same time, I remember all the Gaudí buildings in Barcelona in the way everyone always hopes they’ll remember them because I went with some girl who was crying on a couch in the hostel after she had just been deported from England.
helped her overcome her deportation, and now we’re going to hang out in Santiago! It’s not about the place you go; it’s about the people you encounter and the community in which you immerse yourself. If you’re not one to meet random travelers at a hostel or go zip-lining in Costa Rica with a group of strangers that you met on social media, then bring a local group to that one joint in Ocala, Florida—you can zip-line just about anywhere! Adventure is not a matter of being somewhere far away; it’s a matter of enjoying and exploring the current moment wherever you’re standing. The destination is under the soles of your sneakers—already here! We’ve all already arrived! (Deep, I know. But it’s true.) The grass is greenest beneath your feet, and there’s nowhere to go that you haven’t yet gone, only actions to take that you haven’t yet tried.
“Todo bien?” “Noo!” she shrieked. In Spanish, I asked her, “Why you crying?” “They deport to me!” “So you’re crying on the couch? In the living room?” “I crying in the bathroom and sound to me more pathetic, so the living room I came! My room no is ready!” “How can I help make your day better?”
Enjoy your next trip, wherever it may be. Even if it’s to the top of the Empire State Building, which I didn’t do (and I’m from New York!) until I was twenty-six and had some friends in town from Argentina. And you know what? That building is pretty damn cool. If you look hard enough, you’ll always see something new. Squint with care.
She said, “I want to go to the playa.” We went to the Park Güell and some of the other more touristy places Barcelona has to offer—the places that all those dumb American travel companies overcharge you for on their websites—and then we went to the playa. It was a blast! She helped me have an incredible day, and I
Greg Cayea is a Guinness World Record–holding traveler. He writes offensive short stories about his life exploits, then draws cartoons to illustrate them. Stay tuned at ScrambledGregs.com for his next adventure. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 117
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Christy and Jay Cashman, owners of Kilkea Castle in County Kildare, Ireland 118 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
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Story kilkea castle is restored
BY LISA MARIE BURWELL PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS SUNDERLAND
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ho goes there?” came a muffled voice from behind the heavy castle door. A handsome gentleman with a salt-and-pepper mane opened the vault-like door. “Lisa and Gerald Burwell—editor-in-chief and publisher of VIE,” I replied. “Oh, right. I’m Jay,” he said casually, extending his hand in greeting. “We’re just getting a fire started,” Jay said, leading the way to the heart of the castle lobby. “That’s Jim,” he said unceremoniously, motioning toward a man contorting to get a better look up the fireplace flue. “It’s open,” said Jim McClennen, owner of the five-star Wequassett Resort in Chatham, Massachusetts. “It’s just not drawing yet.” Smoke was beginning to back up from the freshly lit fire. Thanks to quick thinking by Jay and Jim, doors and windows were promptly opened for ventilation. The flue eventually began to draw out the smoke but not before setting off the castle’s brand-new fire alarm. Jay jested, “Well, at least we know it works.” It was late afternoon on Friday, October 27, 2017. My husband and I had just arrived to a remote Irish hamlet near Castledermot, County Kildare, about an hour southwest of Dublin. An invitation to the grand opening of Baronial Hall had brought us the three thousand–plus miles. Jay escorted us over to the golf pro shop to pick up our room key. Approaching the newly renovated clubhouse, we commented on the gorgeous course and its amenities. “I didn’t know anything about golf courses before purchasing this course,” Jay admitted. “I don’t really even play golf. But after refurbishing this course, I now know a lot about golf courses.”
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I Above: The beautiful rose garden and hedge maze at Kilkea Castle Photo by Bruno Sternberger Right: Kilkea offers memorable horseback riding experiences; Christy Scott Cashman, an avid equestrian, poses on-site with one of her favorite horses. Opposite left: A full Irish breakfast is served in the Banquet Hall overlooking the rose garden. Opposite right: Guests can enjoy a drink with medieval flair at the castle’s pub.
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t was nearly a quarter century ago that Jay Cashman, a Boston-based American business mogul of Irish heritage, was visiting Ireland with his then-girlfriend and avid equestrian, Christy Scott. (In the early nineties, before she and Jay even knew each other, Christy frequented Ireland for world-class hunt seat horseback riding—a very assertive and exhilarating cross-country riding style rooted in old-world foxhunting.) It was about one such trip in 1996 on which Jay accompanied her that Christy reminisced. “While I’d be out riding, Jay would be scouring the countryside looking for real estate, but more specifically, he was in search of a castle. He was determined to one day own one, and at the time, I thought he was joking.” Jay’s determination would be prophetic. In early 1999, the couple were wed in the ruins of the Franciscan Abbey on the grounds of Adare Manor in County Limerick. According to the Irish Examiner, the lavish wedding was one “befitting a king or queen.” In 2012, Jay finally achieved his objective
when he purchased the breathtaking Kilkea Castle along with the adjacent golf course near Castledermot, County Kildare. Ironically enough, when Jay tracked his family lineage, he discovered that his ancestors were once peasants that had worked the land owned by wealthy Irish lords. Whether it is intended or not, it has seemingly become Jay’s destiny to raise the bar for the family legacy. “I don’t know why he thought I needed a castle, as I didn’t. Or, maybe I actually did!” quipped Christy. The allure of owning a twelfth-century medieval castle in Ireland is what dreams are made of. The experience of walking into a castle will bring a smile to even the staunchest of adults. But few have the means or the will to pour copious amounts of TLC and large sums of money into a dilapidated landmark. As founder and CEO of Jay Cashman Inc., Jay definitely had the proficiency and resources for such an undertaking: he employs more than a thousand people in marine construction, dredging, vessel leasing, renewable and wind-powered energy, real estate development, environmental remediation, heavy civil construction, water storage, and power plant maintenance. Christy is an actress, writer, producer, and philanthropist who has appeared in over twenty films, including American Hustle, The Forger, Joy, Ted 2, and The Kids Are All Right. In 2014, she founded Saint Aire Productions and cofounded Charity Warriors Challenge, an annual competition that provides a platform for women and their charities. With Christy’s entrepreneurial
thrill-seeking spirit and her genuine love of Ireland, it seems that she and Jay could not be better suited for the ambitious venture of restoring Kilkea Castle and the golf course back to their former glory. Baronial Hall was the crowning touch of the five-year castle renovation. The $50 million transformation brought welcome jobs and a restored sense of pride to the local community. “I think the biggest challenge about the restoration was the fact that it wasn’t just a patch-up kind of job,” Jay recounted. “We had to gut most of the buildings and start fresh. But, it was definitely the right thing to do for the property.” He added that the most important transformation to Baronial Hall was to bring light into the space and to feature the original rock wall that is actually the back side of the carriage house. “It was important to make it romantic for brides,” Jay continued. “We are very proud of the way it turned out, and it looks better than we imagined.”
THE ALLURE OF OWNING A TWELFTH-CENTURY MEDIEVAL CASTLE IN IRELAND IS WHAT DREAMS ARE MADE OF.
The late October air was cooling rapidly, which was drawing a dense fog. (How appropriate for a party at a nine-hundred-year-old castle!) Entering Baronial Hall, we were politely late, so the cocktail reception was well under way with a crowd of over three hundred guests that included friends, family, dignitaries, surrounding neighbors, business colleagues, and the press. The contemporary event hall was stylishly appointed and beautifully decorated. The staff was genuinely attentive, the atmosphere unpretentious, and the food amazing.
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Irish tenor Ronan Tynan and his band perform at the ceremony.
Christy and Jay Cashman dance the night away, celebrating their castle and a love story worthy of a fairy tale.
Guests enjoy the festivities at the grand opening of Baronial Hall at Kilkea Castle on October 27, 2017 122 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
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efore the night’s entertainment began, Jay and Christy took the stage. The gracious and reserved man and his equally poised model-turned-actress bride both welcomed and thanked their guests for celebrating yet another milestone in their lives. After giving a warm thanks to their staff for a job well done, property general manager Adrian O’Sullivan gave a glowing thank-you to Jay and Christy for their incredible vision and generosity. “I am looking forward to Kilkea Castle becoming one of Ireland’s most famous castle resorts,” boasted Adrian.
BETWEEN JAY’S EXPERTISE AND CHRISTY’S LOVE OF IRELAND, KILKEA CASTLE COULDN’T HAVE FOUND MORE APPROPRIATE BENEFACTORS. The acclaimed and energetic Irish tenor Ronan Tynan and his band brought the guests to their feet. “I performed at the opening of Kilkea Castle, and I was thrilled to be asked by Jay to perform again tonight,” said Ronan. “Jay has restored this magnificent castle to the highest standard. It will be one of the hottest tourist attractions in all of Ireland,” added Ronan. The evening’s extravaganza was capped off with a first-class fireworks display over the perfectly manicured English walled garden. The Cashmans know that a good party is always followed by a great after-party, so close friends and family were invited back to the castle for an intimate get-together that went into the early morning hours. It was the celebration of celebrations. What really struck me about the entire experience was that it felt more like a family reunion than a formal gala. And that is just one of the amazing facets to Jay and Christy—they are an extremely gracious, down-to-earth couple who have the uncanny ability to make anyone feel welcome. Their love for life and for
Ireland is contagious to anyone within sight. I’m so impressed with the Cashmans, not because of their great success or wealth, or even their bringing Kilkea Castle back to life, but because you can see kindness, decency, and class in all that they do. Between Jay’s expertise and Christy’s love of Ireland, Kilkea Castle couldn’t have found more appropriate benefactors. Despite the geographical location, this is an inspirational, all-American dream of moving mountains—through hard work, drive, and determination. The revival of this magnificent landmark castle is a true testament to the Cashman’s dedication, generosity, kindness, and passion.
Above left: Fireworks display to celebrate the grand opening of Baronial Hall Above right: Beautiful Kilkea Castle on a sunny day Photo by Bruno Sternberger
For most, the fantasy of fairy tales is relegated to the pages of childhood storybooks, such as the Brothers Grimm’s Snow White or Charles Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty. But in this real-life story, the dashing Prince Charming does meet the fairest in the land, and they are living happily ever after!
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River Cruising in Europe By Pat Richardson
with over seventy river cruises under her ( life ) belt, uk travel writer pat richardson explains why it ’s such a wonderful way to see the world.
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here’s so much to see in Europe that the prospect of visiting numerous towns and cities and seeing the highlights in several countries can be daunting. Actually doing so can be exhausting. Stress not! There is another way: take a river cruise. It’s hassle-free, and I believe it’s the most civilized way to travel. Perhaps you think of river cruises as the poor relation of sea and ocean cruises, with smaller ships, fewer passengers and staff, limited facilities, and restrictive itineraries. Think again! River cruises and ocean cruises don’t have a lot in common, other than the fact that your vessel has a captain up on the bridge and water below the keel. In most other ways, the two experiences are very different indeed. Ocean cruises must, of course (almost always), take you to coastal ports; river cruises take you right into the heart of a country so you can get under its skin and feel its pulse. Think of it as the difference between peering through someone’s window from the outside and the door being opened, inviting you into the home for a look around. Wouldn’t that be a more intimate and immersive experience? It’s just what river cruises deliver.
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Each river has its own unique character; each has a story to tell and has written the story of its surroundings, too. Previous page: River cruising on the Danube River in Budapest leads to gorgeous views of the Hungarian Parliament building. Photo by In Green / Shutterstock Right: Experience the Eiffel Tower from a new perspective as you travel along the Seine. Photo by Samot / Shutterstock Opposite top: Watch the world go by from the comfort of your Royal Suite on the Avalon Artistry II. Cheers! Opposite bottom: The Avalon Affinity sails through Germany along the Moselle River. Photos courtesy of Avalon Waterways 126 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
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here are other persuasive plus points. On rivers, almost all ports are what I call “step-ashore ports,” so no tender, no shuttle bus—your ship docks, you step off, and immediately you are at your destination. Remember too that rivers are the “ink” in which much of history is written; they provided routes for early traders and enemy invaders who would have docked precisely where you do (or near enough). And often it’s there, at the water’s edge, that the historic heart of a riverside town or city starts. If history floats your boat, river cruising is for you. When you do step ashore, you can join other passengers for a guided tour (which may be on foot or by coach or a combination of both) led by a local expert; or you can explore independently, at your own pace. Another plus is that, with no at-sea days, for every mile you sail, you get two miles of coastal scenery and sights to enjoy from your stateroom or suite, your balcony, a public room’s huge windows, or, for a full 360 degrees, the sun deck.
W HE R E TO C RU I S E Deciding to take a river cruise in Europe is the easy part. The hard part is deciding which one. There are no bad cruises, no bad rivers, no bad ships—but don’t rush this step. First, settle on a country, bearing in mind that many of Europe’s rivers flow through two or more. Your choice might be a country you’ve already spent time in and now want to see more of or somewhere you’ve always wanted to visit. Next, pick a river. Each is a destination in its own right, with a unique character; each has a story to tell and has written the story of its surroundings, too. The Rhine is a busy commercial highway; the Moselle, a leafy country lane; the Elbe, shallow and secretive, a river less traveled. The Rhône is impatient; the Seine, serene; the Danube, imperious; the Douro, a rebel tamed by five enormous dams and locks.
will find places of interest on any and every river in Europe. Foodies will be satisfied with the Rhône, which flows through Lyon, France’s gastronomy capital. Wine lovers can choose from two French routes that read like wine lists: the Rhône from Burgundy to Provence or vice versa; and, in the Bordeaux region, a cruise on the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers and the Gironde Estuary into which they both flow. Port wine is the signature theme for cruises on Portugal’s river of gold, the Douro. Keen gardeners can visit Monet’s garden at Giverny on a Seine cruise or the world-famous Keukenhof Gardens on a springtime Rhine cruise starting or ending in Amsterdam. To find a cruise that appeals to you, list all the sights you want to see and experiences you’d like to have, and check all possible itineraries against your list to find a winner—not all voyages on the same river will make the same ports of call.
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ext comes choosing your cruise line. For this, you will need to look at brochures or websites. Try AmaWaterways, Avalon, Emerald, Scenic, Tauck, Uniworld, and Viking. Prepare one last list: what you most want to find on board. Fine dining? A spa? An outdoor pool? Luxury suites? Compare brochure descriptions to find your best match. Consider what each offers ashore as well; some have a choice of included excursions in every port, and some arrange exclusive events such as a private concert or a hosted castle dinner.
FINAL LY… Bear with me, please, as I turn my attention to one particular journey you can undertake as a river cruise in Europe—the one that I consider to be the ultimate river cruise (not necessarily the best, but the ultimate). Open, if you will, a map of Europe—one that stretches all the way from the North Sea to the Black Sea. At the left, find the Netherlands and then Amsterdam. Now trace the fine blue line of the Rhine to Cologne and on to Mainz. Leave the Rhine here, as it winds
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south to Switzerland, and follow instead the looping route of the Main until you reach the Rhine–Main– Danube Canal. Continue, via Bamberg and Kelheim, until you reach the Danube. Trace that river’s route from Passau to Vienna to Bratislava and around the sharp Danube Bend to the south and Budapest, eventually turning eastward again to Belgrade, then through the Iron Gates gorge and on to the sprawling Danube Delta, from which it empties into the
This page: The S.S. Maria Theresa, a Uniworld River Cruise ship, passes through Budapest as the sun sets on the Hungarian Parliament. Opposite top: Indulge in relaxing amenities offered on your river cruise, like this beautiful pool available on S.S. Catherine. Opposite bottom: This suite aboard S.S. Catherine is as divine as the views outside its windows. Photos courtesy of Uniworld River Cruises
You have just " traveled," via three rivers and a man-made waterway, through nine countries and five capital cities, a distance of more than 2,200 miles.
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This page: An aerial view of Trier, Germany, along the banks of the Moselle River. Photo by S-F / Shutterstock
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Black Sea. You have just “traveled,” via three rivers and a man-made waterway, through nine countries and five capital cities—a distance of more than 2,200 miles.
On the DANUBE, magnificent Melk Abbey in the Wachau Valley On the DOURO, Porto’s array of bridges
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ow picture, if you will, making this journey on a luxury river cruise vessel, packing and unpacking only once for the entire trip, sleeping in the same bed every night, crossing borders without a hassle, and all your meals, laundry, ironing, bed making, and bathroom cleaning done by others. All this is in addition to having one or more bars, a restaurant, and an evening entertainment venue with resident and guest performers and a dance floor—all within a short walk of your bedroom.
On the ELBE, Dresden’s restored glory and scenic Saxon Switzerland On the GARONNE, Bordeaux’s Pont de Pierre, a bridge with seventeen arches—one for each letter in Napoleon Bonaparte’s name On the MOSELLE, the turreted castle, Reichsburg, above the town of Cochem
EIGHT HIGHLIGHT SIGHTS ON EUROPE’S RIVERS
Bliss? Oh yes, it is!
On the RHINE, Cologne’s immense cathedral On the RHONE, the Roman temple in Vienne and the Pont Saint-Bénézet, better known as the Pont d’Avignon On the SEINE, the ruins of Château Gaillard on a cliff high above Les Andelys
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New Mexico’s
BY STEVE LARESE
New Mexico's a desert, right? Sure, the Land of Enchantment has plenty of cactus-studded range, but New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo Mountains are the southern range of the Rockies. Thanks to cold, dry air and elevations topping twelve thousand feet, New Mexico gets the powder that skiers and snowboarders crave to carve. Four-season New Mexico makes a perfect February destination, whether you’re looking for a snowy, romantic Valentine’s Day getaway with your loved one or you’re starting to think of a spring break adventure with your little ones. Mix in robust Native American and Hispanic history, its renowned spicy cuisine, world-class spas, shopping, art, and budget-friendly lift tickets, and New Mexico makes a vibrant ski destination that encourages beginners and challenges the experienced. Here’s a roundup of the state’s eight ski and snowboarding areas and resorts to consider for a midwinter getaway.
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Voyager Enjoy drinks fireside at Rhoda’s Restaurant or the Martini Tree Bar, and savor authentic German cuisine at the Bavarian Restaurant. Check out package deals, such as 50 percent off an adjoining room and 20 percent off lodging, dining, and spa services, at SkiTaos.com/packages. Off the slopes, visit Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and enjoy the shopping and romantic dining in nearby Taos. SKITAOS.COM; TAOS.ORG
Pajarito Mountain
Red River Ski Area
Above and previous page: Taos Ski Valley is the perfect place for adventure lovers or those looking for a relaxing day at the spa after time spent on the slopes—you might even make some new friends! Photos courtesy of Taos Ski Valley Right: Calling all adventurers! Hop on the Apache Wind Rider zip line through the New Mexico mountains and take in the beautiful views. Photo courtesy of DiscoverRuidoso.com 134 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Ski boots are right at home next to cowboy boots at New Mexico’s northernmost ski area, Red River Ski & Summer Area. The base starts right next to the three-street town of Red River, so many of the Western-style properties here have door-to-lift convenience. On the mountain, 70 percent of the trails are rated beginner and intermediate, with 30 percent as expert. Li’l Buckaroos Child Care keeps children six months to four years entertained while parents and older siblings hit the slopes, and lessons at the Youth Ski & Snowboard Center help young skiers and boarders improve their skills. Three terrain parks are favorites for the daredevils in your group, and tubing opens at 4:15 p.m. daily, as does night skiing. Get another adrenaline rush on the Pioneer Flyer zip line or Hidden Treasure Aerial Park, and let the good times roll at the annual Mardi Gras in the Mountains celebration, February 8–13, 2018. REDRIVERSKIAREA.COM; REDRIVER.ORG
Taos Ski Valley The Blake at Taos Ski Valley is an excellent choice for both romantic getaways and adventure-filled family vacations. The newly opened alpine-style hotel features a spa, fireside dining at 192 at The Blake, and childcare for kids as young as two months. With 51 percent of its trails rated black diamond, Taos is king of the New Mexico mountains when it comes to expert skiing, and its 12,481-foot Kachina Peak has a 3,274-foot vertical payoff. But don’t let that scare you off; the Ernie Blake Snowsports School is considered one of the best in the country, and the Pioneer Lift accesses a new beginner’s slope area.
Designed as a private ski area for employees at the once top-secret Los Alamos National Laboratory, Pajarito in the Jeméz Mountains is now open to the public and is a New Mexico favorite for its challenging and uncrowded trails. The Never Ever packages combine lessons and lift tickets for those new to skiing and snowboarding, and beginner packages and group lessons are available for kids and adults who’d like to improve. Explore Santa Fe just forty-five minutes away and the ancient Native American ruins at nearby Bandelier National Monument. SKIPA JARITO.COM; VISIT.LOSAL AMOS.COM
Ski Apache Ski Apache near Ruidoso in southern New Mexico is North America’s southernmost ski area. Owned and operated by the Mescalero Apache Tribe, its eleven ski lifts include enclosed eight-passenger Doppelmayr gondolas. Located at 11,500 feet on inactive volcano Sierra Blanca, Ski Apache’s Elk Lodge has slot machines, making it the first ski resort in the nation with casino-style gaming. Four on-site restaurants keep everyone fueled, and the Spirit Bar in the main lodge helps take the edge off after a day on the 750 acres of slopes (75 percent are beginner and intermediate trails). Try out the Trikke Skki (a three-ski snow bike), race down the tubing run, or soar down its 8,890-foot-long Apache Wind Rider ZipTour. The nearby Mescalero-owned Inn of the Mountain Gods has 273 luxury rooms, fine dining, an eighteen-hole championship golf course, an indoor pool, live music at Club 49, and a casino. Shop nearby Ruidoso’s charming downtown, and explore cowboy history at the Hubbard Museum of the American West in nearby Ruidoso Downs. SKIAPACHE.COM; RUIDOSO.NET
Sandia Peak Ski and Tramway Skiing in Albuquerque? At the top of 10,377-foot Sandia Peak east of New Mexico’s largest city is Sandia Peak Ski and Tramway, a small but scenic area where you can ski a half day and still have time to enjoy Albuquerque. Drive up the picturesque eastern backside of the mountain along NM-536 for forty minutes from Albuquerque, or take the Sandia Aerial Tramway for a beautiful fifteen-minute trip up the mountain’s western face above the Sandia Mountain Wilderness. Build confidence on Sandia’s beginner and intermediate slopes, which make up 90 percent of the run, or go big at the Scrapyard terrain park. Down in Albuquerque, enjoy Southwest-flavored romance at any number of local restaurants and hotels or family fun at Explora Science Center and Children’s Museum, the ABQ BioPark, and other attractions that parents will love, too. SANDIAPEAK.COM; VISITALBUQUERQUE.ORG
Top: Ski Apache is the state’s southernmost ski area and the nation’s first ski resort to offer casino-style gaming. Explore nearby Ruidoso for shopping and dining, and check out the Hubbard Museum of the American West in Ruidoso Downs. Photo by Jeff Dow Photography, courtesy of Ski Apache V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 135
Voyager Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort Family-owned Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort is known locally for its generous—if not somewhat quirky—deals: Active duty military, kids under six, fourth-graders (with a report card), forty-year-olds, sixty-year-olds, and seventy and older ski free. Kids seven and older who have never skied or snowboarded get a free lesson with the purchase of a full-day, full-price ticket. With the purchase of a $45 full-day adult lift ticket, guests can stay a night for free in the on-site hotel. On Car Load Days, up to five people in a single vehicle can ski or board for $50 total.
Below: New Mexico’s ski areas are vibrant destinations that encourage beginners and challenge even the most experienced skiers and snowboarders. Photo courtesy of Taos Ski Valley Inset and opposite: Skiers enjoying the Sipapu slopes! Go to SipapuNM.com to get special deals for your next getaway. Photo courtesy of Sipapu Ski & Summer Resort
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Savings aside, Sipapu is a fun mountain with enough challenges to satisfy experienced skiers and boarders despite its smaller footprint. Try ski biking and the terrain park that is made entirely of logs from the nearby forest. Paradise Bar and Grill and Riverside Cafe at the base serve New Mexico cuisine, with happy hour specials daily from 4 to 6 p.m. The lodge rooms are purposefully simple—no TVs or phones. Taos is just twenty miles away, while Santa Fe is sixty-five miles away for fun day trip options. SIPAPUNM.COM
Angel Fire Resort With an indoor pool and hot tub, pet-friendly rooms, lodge-to-lift accommodations, and gear storage just feet from the Chile Express chairlift, full-service Angel Fire Resort is one of the nation’s most family-friendly ski destinations with 76 percent of its trails rated as beginner and intermediate. Night skiing and boarding are available from 4 to 8 p.m., and winter zip-lining has adventurers careening from the 10,600-foot summit two hundred feet above the ground down to the
base. On-site restaurants include Elements with its 1,800-bottle private wine room for romantic dinners and Chianti’s for family pizza. The Polar Coaster shoots tubers down a thousand feet of groomed, lighted lanes, and kids six and younger get a free lift ticket—as do fifth graders with a valid report card. This February, check out the World Championship Shovel Races (February 2–3), during which participants scream down the slopes on snow shovels, and Military Winterfest (February 22–26), organized and hosted by the National Veterans Wellness and Healing Center Angel Fire. The festival features exclusive discounts and activities for military members, past and present, and their families. ANGELFIRERESORT.COM; ANGELFIREFUN.COM
Ski Santa Fe Just sixteen miles from the Santa Fe Plaza, Ski Santa Fe has a 10,350-foot base and 12,075-foot elevation; 60 percent of its trails are rated beginner and intermediate. La Casa Lodge has gear shops and restaurants, and Totemoff ’s Bar on the slopes is a local favorite for a burger, beer, or mixed drink around the fireplaces. Mogul and glade lovers thrill at the terrain and the views from the top of the Millennium Triple Chairlift. Chipmunk Corner Children’s Center has day care, a snow play area, and ski and snowboard lessons for children three and older, and its adaptive ski program ensures everyone can enjoy the slopes. SKISANTAFE.COM; SANTAFE.ORG No matter your style, you’ll find a winter sports oasis in the Land of Enchantment.
For more information, package deals, and current conditions, visit SkiNewMexico. com and check out NewMexico.org for general visitor information.
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Travel writer Steve Larese and his wife, Kat, spent many a winter date on the slopes before getting married. They now ski with their daughter and two sons. Follow him on Instagram @SteveLarese.
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SPAI N THE WONDERS OF
BEYOND PAELLA AND FLAMENCO BY INKA PIEGSA-QUISCHOTTE
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Every country brings several images to mind when thinking of the place. For Spain, it might be paella, the tasty rice dish from Valencia, and the clapping, stamping feet, and swishing skirts of the flamenco. Of course, you can find these when visiting Spain, but look closer and follow me on a tour that will open new horizons. Spain is divided into fifty provinces, grouped into seventeen autonomous communities. Each has its own history and culture, which already gives you an idea about the plethora of sights to see and things to do. From mountains, rivers, and dense forests in the north to history-laden plains in the middle, and beaches and white villages in the south, España has it all. The key word for Galicia, Spain’s northwestern province, is green. Home to millions of camellias, beech and oak forests, broad rivers called rias, and cities full of history, you’ll be spoiled for choice in Galicia. All that lush vegetation is thanks to plenty of rain, even in the summer, but that’s no obstacle to travel—just pack your raincoat and umbrella.
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alicia is probably best known for the city of Santiago de Compostela, the final point of the worldfamous pilgrimage route Camino de Santiago, or “Way of Saint James” in English. Devoted pilgrims continue on to the end of the earth, Cape Finisterre, on a particularly wild part of the Atlantic Coast. Below a bronze boot, they burn their travel clothes in a ceremony to celebrate the beginning of a new, spiritual life.
Below: The beautiful vaulted interiors of the Granada Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Incarnation
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Remaining on the Atlantic, visit Vigo, where you’ll find the best and freshest seafood and oysters in a part of the port known as La Piedra. Vigo is also the starting point for a day trip to the Islas Cíes, fabulous islands with white-sand beaches and an emphasis on protecting the environment; no cars are allowed, and if you throw so much as a scrap of paper on the ground, you will be heavily fined.
Fans of antiquity must not miss visiting La Coruña and the Tower of Hercules, a lighthouse of ancient Roman origins. Farther inland, enjoy the city of Pontevedra, with typical Galician stone houses, or nearby Padrón, with an excellent botanical garden, the home-museum of the best-known Galician poetess, Rosalía de Castro, and a museum dedicated to Nobel Laureate Camilo José Cela. Continue to the drier and more mountainous middle of Spain and the provinces of Aragon and Castile-La Mancha, the setting for most of the adventure novel Don Quixote.
Within easy travel distance of Madrid is Ávila, where you can walk along massive medieval walls. A little farther on, in Salamanca, admire Spain’s oldest university and marvel at the beautiful Plaza Mayor, one of the best in Spain. My favorite city is Toledo, where painter El Greco worked and died. The museum dedicated to him is excellent. Nearby, you can experience Europe’s longest zip line, which spans across the Tagus River and provides a fantastic view of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wander the narrow, cobbled streets and watch the artisans crafting jewelry, plates, vases, and knives from the gold and black Toledo steel. If you have a sweet tooth, try the tempting creations of marzipan and cakes at many stops around the city. If you love to walk and hike, you must visit the impressive mountain range and nature park of Moncayo, with
Fans of antiquity must not miss visiting La Coruña and the Tower of Hercules, a lighthouse of ancient Roman origins. the medieval town of Tarazona at its starting point. Looking at the snow-covered peak of the Moncayo mountain, you will be forgiven to think for a moment that you are in Japan; it looks exactly like Fujiyama from a distance. You may know that Spain was under Muslim rule for five hundred years until los Reyes Católicos conquered the peninsula in the fifteenth century and established the Catholic Kingdom. The many centuries of Moorish reign left a considerable legacy, most notably in the south, in Andalusia. The best known example of this is probably in Granada, where you will find the Alhambra fortress complex, with its magnificent palace and gardens.
Above: The majestic Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar in Zaragoza, along with the Puente de Piedra (meaning “bridge of stone”) Left: The Tower of Hercules lighthouse at La Coruña is one of many sites to see in Galicia. It is thought to be modeled after the Lighthouse of Alexandria.
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Right: Flowers line the streets at a scenic lookout point in the coastal village of Maro in Andalusia. Opposite: The medieval city of Toledo is a colorful sight beneath the sunset. Below: Horses bedecked with flowers and pulling a colorful cart for the horse fair in Jerez de la Frontera
n Granada, we finally come to the cradle of flamenco. Sacromonte, a steep hillside opposite the Alhambra, is dotted with countless cave dwellings and tablaos, small venues where flamenco dancers and singers perform the real thing every night. Although it originated in the city of Valencia on Spain’s Costa Blanca, paella in various forms is a favorite dish in Andalusia too. Follow one of the foremost attractions of the region, a chain of white villages stretching roughly from Málaga to Cádiz. The brilliant white painted houses, sometimes with blue doors and window
See a performance of these beautiful horses and the skilled riders in their distinctive costumes at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. frames, seem glued to the sides of various mountain ranges. A picture-perfect example is the village of Frigiliana near Nerja. Don’t miss the caves and the Balcony of Europe in Nerja itself, where you have the closest view of the African coast. Another lovely white village is Mijas, which is explored by burro. Farther west, we find Jerez de la Frontera, famous for sherry and horses. There are many bodegas here, where you can see how sherry is made and aged in massive oak barrels and, of course, taste the many varieties. Be warned—the fumes alone can be enough to make you dizzy. 142 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Equally essential to Jerez are its horses, a unique breed raised only in the area. See a performance of these beautiful horses and the skilled riders in their distinctive costumes at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. Last but not least, the broad, white beaches of the Costa del Sol need to be mentioned. All of them are Blue Flag certified, and most are family friendly with an easy approach to the water. This area of Spain is very popular with tourists, and even the widest beaches can get crowded in the summer; all of the resort towns, such as Marbella, can be quite expensive. As you can see, Spain has many faces and regions to explore when you venture off the tourist trail. Plan your voyage and come home with a very different impression of this beautiful country.
Inka Piegsa-Quischotte is an international attorney turned novelist and travel writer. After five years in Turkey, she now lives on Spain’s Costa Blanca. Her articles have appeared in BBC Travel, BBC Sky at Night, Europe Up Close, GoNomad, and many more. Her blog, GlamourGrannyTravels.com, is dedicated to female baby boomers. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 143
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BY GILLY PICKUP
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lthough the Austrian capital is awash with imperial grandeur and ostentatious buildings, Vienna is no dreary city. Besides being one of Europe’s safest cities, the inhabitants are genuinely friendly, its coffee houses are world famous, and its attractions— from towering palaces to imposing museums, trendy galleries, and manicured parks—keep visitors busy. But on a whistle-stop weekend tour, I realized this is also a whimsical place with remarkable hidden treasures. I was in Vienna’s third district, standing in front of one of the strangest buildings I had ever seen. “This is the Hundertwasser House,” my guide explained, waving expansively to include the entire higgledypiggledy building plus the rooftop trees, “named after the local artist who designed it. It symbolizes architecture in harmony with nature.”
BUT ON A WHISTLE-STOP WEEKEND TOUR, I REALIZED THIS IS ALSO A WHIMSICAL CAPITAL WITH REMARKABLE HIDDEN TREASURES. The lavishly colored building looked more than a bit strange to me with its spontaneous vegetation, trees growing out of windows, and undulating floors. Hundertwasser claimed an uneven floor is “a melody to the feet.” It was almost as idiosyncratic as my accommodation, the 25hours Hotel, a sheer explosion of color and fanciful circus-themed rooms. It offers free bike rentals and Wi-Fi for guests, while its rooftop bar is a favorite hangout. Some rooms have bathtubs on the balcony; others come with kitchenettes and Nespresso machines. There is even a seasonal food truck that serves burgers in the garden. No run-ofthe-mill hotel is this!
Above: The majestic Hofburg Imperial Palace Photo by Byjeng / Shutterstock Opposite: Stunning views above the rooftops of Vienna Photo by Christian Stemper / WienTourismus
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arlier that day, I had visited the Prater. Like many grand European parks, Vienna’s Prater started life as a carriageriding area for the nobility. No wonder they were displeased with Emperor Joseph II when he decided on a whim to open it up to the hoi polloi in the mid1700s. Before you could say “schnitzel,” the park was alive with freak shows, fortune telling machines, and barrel organs. Of course, these have all long since gone, and these days the park is popular with joggers, walkers, and cyclists. Besides its national football stadium, the Prater’s main attraction is a fun fair best known for its Giant Ferris Wheel (Riesenrad), the only one of its time still in use today. Erected in 1897, it towers over the city. If you don’t mind heights and want to let your hair down, you can follow Orson Welles’s example (he starred in the postwar film The Third Man as Harry Lime) and take a ride in one of its fifteen ornate gondolas as big as garden sheds. For those who want to hold a special event in the skies above Vienna, some of the gondolas are even furnished with tables for catered dinners and parties.
BESIDES ITS NATIONAL FOOTBALL STADIUM, THE PRATER’S MAIN ATTRACTION IS A FUN FAIR BEST KNOWN FOR ITS GIANT FERRIS WHEEL (RIESENRAD), THE ONLY ONE OF ITS TIME STILL IN USE TODAY.
Not far away is Supersense on Praterstrasse, a contemporary take on the café culture for which Vienna is famed. Referring to it simply as a café doesn’t do it justice: it is also a recording studio, a craft shop, a delicatessen, and a printworks set inside a grand nineteenth-century “palace” modeled after Venice’s Ca’ d’Oro. As far as eating out goes, I discovered that Viennese food is rather bloodthirsty, with beef and veal featuring heavily on menus. Fortunately, for those of us who don’t eat meat, more vegetarian restaurants are popping up across the city. Many traditional Viennese dishes are braised, boiled, or stewed, though a common local way to cook anything is with a pan-fried coating of flour, egg, and breadcrumbs. During my stay, it seemed that everywhere I went I happened upon references to Vienna’s musical worthies. Not for nothing is this city known as the City of Music. Haydn, Schubert, Beethoven, Strauss, Mahler, Bruckner, and Mozart all lived here at one time or another. One much-visited pilgrimage site is the Mozarthaus. Located on the Domgasse behind Saint Stephen’s Cathedral, it is the only surviving residence of Wolfgang Amadeus. Locals refer to it as the Figarohaus because he wrote The Marriage of Figaro here. Another is the Pasqualati House, one of Beethoven’s abodes and now a museum. Most of his winters were spent in this house, which he rented from Johann von Pasqualati. The piano on which he composed his Fifth Symphony is in the main room together with personal artifacts, including paintings and musical scores. There are numerous venues where visitors can catch performances: one is the Musikverein, used by the Vienna Philharmonic; another is the multistage Konzerthaus.
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Opposite: Tourists and locals enjoy a stroll through Schönbrunn Palace Gardens. Middle: A closer view of the Michaelerkuppel of the Hofburg Imperial Palace Photos by Peter Rigaud / WienTourismus Left: Get the best view of the city from one of Prater’s main attractions, the Giant Ferris Wheel (Wiener Riesenrad). Photo by Christian Stemper / WienTourismus
Magnolia House is a gathering place where people come from all over the world to experience the music, fragrances and the peace of living by the sea. Located on Hwy 98 at Sandestin’s Grand Boulevard Town Center in Miramar Beach, FL | 850.460.2005 | magnoliahouse.com
Voyager
hile in town, I made a point of visiting the Naschmarkt, stretching between Linke and Rechte Wienzeile streets. Food stalls sell eat-as-you-go dishes, including bratwurst and sweet dates filled with walnuts and cheese. The market has been in existence since the 1500s. In the beginning, mainly milk bottles were sold here, and that’s how it got its name. Back then, milk bottles were made from ash wood; asch is German for “ash,” which led to the name Aschenmarkt, now Naschmarkt. Hemming the market stalls are restaurants and cafés where you can eat anything from sushi and kebabs to Viennese palatschinken (similar to crepes), and every Saturday, a flea market sets up here. It’s popular with locals and tourists, and bargain hunters should aim to arrive by 7:00 a.m. to grab the best deals!
ONE OF THE BEST IS THE LEOPOLD, WITH ONE OF THE GREATEST COMPILATIONS OF AUSTRIAN ART, INCLUDING WORKS BY GUSTAV KLIMT. Getting around Vienna is pretty easy, thanks to Emperor Franz Josef. He created the Ring around three-quarters of the city center, while the fourth side is marked by the Danube Canal. It’s a walkable city, but if you prefer not to walk everywhere, the public transport system is efficient and includes buses, the underground, and trams. For those who like to bike, Citybike Wien allows you to rent a bicycle from one location and return it at a designated station convenient to your destination. Southwest of the Ring is Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier, a collection of galleries and museums housed in the old imperial stables. One of the best is the Leopold, with one of the greatest compilations of Austrian art, including works by Gustav Klimt. If you can squeeze anything else into your visit, make a point of visiting the UNESCO-listed Schönbrunn Palace, the Habsburgs’ former summer home, where you can take a tour or get lost in the maze.
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Unwind while you walk around the Volksgarten and enjoy the view of the Naturhistorisches Museum. Photo by Christian Stemper / WienTourismus
THE FASHION AWARDS 2017 The Fashion Awards 2017 in partnership with Swarovski was held at the iconic Royal Albert Hall on Monday, December 4, to celebrate the best of British and international talent from the global fashion community. The Fashion Awards are the primary fund-raiser for the British Fashion Council’s Education Foundation. Photography courtesy of Getty Images
Zendaya Photo by Mike Marsland/BFC 150 | F E B R U A R Y 2018
Valerie Morris and Naomi Campbell Photo by Jeff Spicer/BFC
Kaia Gerber Photo by Jeff Spicer/BFC
Selena Gomez Photo by Mike Marsland/BFC
Julien Macdonald and Izabel Goulart Photo by Jeff Spicer/BFC
Pink, Stella McCartney, and Annabelle Wallis Photo by Mike Marsland/ BFC
Stella Maxwell and Karlie Kloss Photo by Mike Marsland/BFC
Jourdan Dunn Photo by Jeff Spicer/BFC
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La scène
Morgan Freeman Photo by Steve Jennings
Wiz Khalifa and Izabela Guedes Photo by Jesse Grant
BREAKTHROUGH PRIZE 2018 Kerry Washington Photo by Jesse Grant
Ashton Kutcher and Mila Kunis Photo by Kimberly White
Celebrities and philanthropists joined some of the nation’s top scientists and mathematicians to celebrate the winners of the 2018 Breakthrough Prize at NASA Ames Research Center on December 3, 2017, in Mountain View, California. The event, which has been called “the Oscars of Science,” recognizes top achievements in physics, life sciences, and mathematics. This year’s winners received a total of $22 million in prizes for continuing research and funding new projects. Photography courtesy of Getty Images
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Lily Collins Photo by Kimberly White
Haley Joel Osment, Josh Hutcherson, and Seth Rogen attend The Disaster Artist after-party
AFI FEST 2017
Director Dee Rees attends screening of Mudbound Photo by Alberto E. Rodriguez
The American Film Institute celebrated the winners of AFI Fest 2017 presented by Audi at venues around Los Angeles in November of 2017. “As the thirty-first edition of AFI Fest comes to a close, this year’s awards shine a light on the American independent, auteur, and foreign cinema that resonated with our audiences and jurors,” said Jacqueline Lyanga, AFI Fest director. “Audience awards help bring film lovers together while building momentum for the filmmakers in this year’s festival.”
Zoe Saldana and Marco Perego at the Hostiles after-party
Brothers Dave and James Franco Photo by Christopher Polk
Photography courtesy of Getty Images for AFI
Donald Sutherland and Helen Mirren attend special screening of The Leisure Seeker Photo by Christopher Polk
Carey Mulligan at opening night gala
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La scène
Bill and Heavenly Dawson with Demetrius Fuller
Jordan Staggs and Nicholas S. Racheotes
VIE'S STORIES WITH HEART & SOUL TOUR – BOSTON
Greta Meszoely and Hamid Benbrahim
VIE held its fifth Stories with Heart and Soul Tour event on November 28, 2017, at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston. Guests were treated to live music provided by a string trio and, in honor of visionary patron of the arts and philanthropist Isabella Stewart Gardner, her signature favorites—champagne and doughnuts—were served along with passed hors d’oeuvres. As we toasted the Boston travel spotlight in our December 2017 issue and a decade of storytelling in VIE, the evening also celebrated the arts with our brand partners from Sinfonia Gulf Coast orchestra. Thank you to everyone who attended. Your support means the world to us!
Marianne and Tom Duffey
Photography by Rinn Garlanger Meredith Sharpe and Conary Ryan
Lorna and Darin Colucci Robert and Catherine Grosskopf
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Dympna Coyne, Louise Hannick, and Sharon Duane
Christy and Jay Cashman with Tracey Thomas
Johnny, Emma, and Bobby Crowley with Lisa Burwell
Julie Ginter, Crissy Williams, Emily Albers, and Ginger Weible
Mary Ellen Wright-Ryan, Caolan Ryan, and Mary Lou Crane
Jimmy Chambers, Elaine Tucker, Robert and Catherine Grosskopf, Bill and Heavenly Dawson, Renee and Jim Beaman, and Demetrius Fuller
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La scène
Demetria McNeese, Pam Wellborn, Dawn Weems, and Velia Lala
Demetrius Fuller, Stephanie Brannon, and Michael Polenske
SINFONIA + JIMMY CHOO
The evening’s hosts, Jack and Candis Wilson
Sinfonia Gulf Coast and footwear and accessories brand Jimmy Choo teamed up for a delightful boat cruise and dinner event at the home of Jack and Candis Wilson in Miramar Beach, Florida, on November 16, 2017. Guests enjoyed a sunset cruise aboard the Wilsons’ yacht, a chance to shop the Jimmy Choo Cruise 2018 Collection, and a wine dinner presented by Michael Polenske of Blackbird Vineyards and Chef Jack McGuckin and Leslie McGuckin of Bijoux Destin. Proceeds supported Sinfonia’s education initiatives.
Chris and Vicki Camp
Elaine Tucker and Lisa Peters
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Velia Lala and Jimmy Chambers
SUBSCRIBE TODAY! ONE-YEAR FOR $29.95 V IE M A G A Z INE .C O M / S U B S C R IB E
Au revoir! Learn more at VanCleefArpels.com more or book a table at or Learn shop its Florida DorchesterCollection.com/Plaza-Athenee. locations in Miami, Bal Harbour, and Photo by Pierre Monetta Palm Beach.
Au revoir! THE L AST WORD
Mother of pearl! Feast your eyes on the Bouton d’or by Van Cleef & Arpels. This stunning necklace features carnelian, white mother-of-pearl, and diamonds set in 18-karat pink gold. Van Cleef & Arpels, founded in Paris in 1906, is known for pieces featuring nature motifs such as flowers, animals, and fairies. This piece brings to mind a bouquet of red, white, and gold roses.
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