VIE Magazine April 2022

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Bijoux’s Chef

JACK MCGUCKIN SHINES BRIGHT

April 2022

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A GATHERING

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LONDON CALLING! FOODIE FINDS Across the POND




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In this issue On the Cover

Bon appétit! It’s time to visit Bijoux Destin, a coastal French restaurant with New Orleans flair located in the charming Market Shops at Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort in Miramar Beach, Florida. Chef/ owner Jack McGuckin, his wife and business partner, Leslie, and their team consistently offer guests a fine-dining experience with incredible food, craft cocktails, impeccable service, and unparalleled hospitality year-round. Become part of the family when you visit for dinner or grab a martini in the chic lounge and bar. Photo by Romona Robbins

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CHEF GABE MCMACKIN AND HIS TEAM AT TROUTBECK IN HUDSON VALLEY, NEW YORK, ARE COMMITTED TO CREATING BESPOKE CULINARY AND HOSPITALITY EXPERIENCES THAT WILL WOW EACH GUEST.

Photo by Matthew Mancuso

FEATURE 24 A Family with Culinary Chops: For the

PUBLISHED BY

North Beach Social

Love of Food

97 L’intermission: Evolution of Tradition

BON APPÉTIT! 23

C’EST LA VIE CURATED COLLECTION 92

31 L’intermission: Beyond Perfection 34 This Takes the Cake: New Flavors Await 38 Chef Paul Is on Par: The Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins with a Single Step

43 Petite pause: An Electric Experience Vie is a French word meaning “life” or “way of living.” VIE magazine sets itself apart as a high-gloss publication that focuses on human-interest stories with heart and soul. From Seattle to NYC with a concentration in the Southeast, VIE is known for its unique editorial approach—a broad spectrum of deep content with rich photography. The award-winning magazine was founded in 2008 by husband-and-wife team Lisa and Gerald Burwell, owners of the specialty publishing and branding house known as The Idea Boutique®. From the finest artistically bound books to paperless digital publication and distribution, The Idea Boutique provides comprehensive publishing services to authors and organizations. Its team of creative professionals delivers a complete publishing experience—all that’s needed is your vision.

86 Art Aquatic: Andy Saczynski x

LA VITALITÉ 99 100 The Future of Health: Eat for Your Body with ZOE

105 Petite pause: What’s the Tea?

44 A Bespoke Experience: Troutbeck

VIE BOOK CLUB: THE READERS CORNER 107

Leads the Way

108 Recipe: Penne “Alla Bettola” with

50 A Lowcountry Treasure: The Legacy

Tomato and Vodka

of Shrimp and Grits

111 L’intermission: Celebrate Gathering

55 L’intermission: Invitation Only

VOYAGER 59 60 London Calling! Foodie Finds Across the Pond 68 California’s Hidden Gem: Cruisin’ Central

LA SCÈNE 114 THE LAST WORD 123 AU REVOIR! 127

Coast Wine Country

74 Savor the City: A Culinary Tour of Madrid 79 Petite pause: The Art of Dessert THEIDEABOUTIQUE.COM INFO@THEIDEABOUTIQUE.COM

82 The Ancient Grape: Exploring Greek Wine Country

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CREATIVE TEAM CEO / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF LISA MARIE BURWELL Lisa@VIEmagazine.com

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS SALLIE W. BOYLES, FELICIA FERGUSON, SARAH FREEMAN, ANTHEA GERRIE, AMBER GUINNESS, MYLES MELLOR, CAROLYN O’NEIL, TORI PHELPS, SUZANNE POLL AK, NICHOL AS S. RACHEOTES, COLLEEN SACHS, XENIA TALIOTIS

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VIE is a registered trademark. All contents herein are Copyright © 2008–2022 Cornerstone Marketing and Advertising, Incorporated (Publisher). All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without written permission from the Publisher. VIE is a lifestyle magazine and is published twelve times annually on a monthly schedule. The opinions herein are not necessarily those of the Publisher. The Publisher and its advertisers will not be held responsible for any errors found in this publication. The Publisher is not liable for the accuracy of statements made by its advertisers. Ads that appear in this publication are not intended as offers where prohibited by state law. The Publisher is not responsible for photography or artwork submitted by freelance or outside contributors. The Publisher reserves the right to publish any letter addressed to the editor or the Publisher. VIE is a paid publication. Subscription rates: Printed magazine – One-year $29.95; Two-year $49.95. Subscriptions can be purchased online at www.VIEmagazine.com.

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Editor’s Note

LET’S DISH

A RECIPE for WELLNESS, COMMUNITY, and BEAUTY

T

he art form of food presentation known as plating is permeating the culinary scene. A modern-day dining experience seems to echo the adage “We eat with our eyes” on a whole new level. Once the plates are served, the iPhones appear, and only after the photo-taking ritual is over does one dive into their beautiful dish. Discussions ensue among tablemates as they ardently study and gaze at each plate as one would a Renoir in the Louvre. This sensory treat of a beautifully presented dish creates anticipation, and once the first bite is taken, these edible works of art offer gastronomic delights as well. Eating well is big business these days, and we have so much to share with you in our annual Culinary Issue.

On Episode #23 of VIE Speaks: Conversations with Heart and Soul podcast, VIE CEO/editorin-chief Lisa Marie Burwell sat down with Lindsay Tobias, an artist, speaker, author, certified holistic health coach, exercise physiologist, and founder/owner of Keep Your Plants On. Learn more about Lindsay by following @artbydoman and @keepyourplantson on Instagram.

There is undoubtedly something for everyone to be excited about in this issue, whether locally in our Northwest Florida coastal home or across the globe. Our feature article lauds the highly awarded and loved Bijoux Destin restaurant, located at The Market Shops in Sandestin. Meet its owners, Jack and Leslie McGuckin, in “A Family with Culinary Chops: For the Love of Food.” Next, take a drive along the West Coast in “California’s Hidden Gem: Cruisin’ Central Coast Wine Country” by Anthea Gerrie. Then follow our longtime culinary writer Carolyn O’Neil as she shares new and not-to-miss dining experiences from her time teaching at Florida State University’s London Study Centre in “London Calling! Foodie Finds Across the Pond.” The rich food photography in this issue delivers art manifested through chefs taking their cuisine to higher levels of aesthetic, nutrition, and taste. We guarantee it’ll make you hungry. On the other side of the food spectrum is giving our bodies the absolute best nourishment. Since food is for both enjoyment and sustaining our health and wellness, I am excited to present Lindsay Tobias, a certified holistic health coach and exercise physiologist who will have a health and nutrition column in future issues of VIE. I recently interviewed Lindsay on our podcast, VIE Speaks: Conversations with Heart and Soul, which has been a great communication platform for exploring in-depth topics and meeting new people. Her twelve-week mind and body program, Keep Your Plants On, has transformed over five hundred clients in the past year since its inception. Everything you need to know about your food, brain, body, and habits is wrapped into twelve modules that include educational videos, grocery lists, meal prep tips, and more. Lindsay specializes in bio-individuality, customizing a plan for each person, as everyone needs something different. “Seeing food as body manipulation rather than nourishment is a topic I am passionate about,” she says. “I want to teach people to view food as something working for your body and not against it—this is where sustainability comes into a person’s life. Enjoyment is the pinnacle of sustainability.”

Lindsay’s goal is to help women break the all-or-nothing cycle, balance their hormones, and restore digestive health. She expounds how “hustle culture” glorifies the God of Productivity rather than listening to and monitoring our well-being. My interview with Lindsay was both informative and enlightening, and I would love for you to listen to what she has to say as she has a wealth of knowledge. She will inspire you! To all of our readers, we thank you for loving VIE. To Life and Good Health,

—Lisa Marie CEO/Editor-in-Chief

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 17


Be Bold.

Be Beautiful. Be you.

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The Creatives We collaborate with talented photographers, writers, and other creatives on a regular basis, and we’re continually inspired by how they pour their hearts and souls into their crafts. Follow these creatives on social media and don’t forget to check out our account, @viemagazine.

ANDY SACZYNSKI Artist, “Art Aquatic” @andysaczynski

IN THIS ISSUE, WE ASKED THE CREATIVES: IF YOU COULD HAVE ONE LAST MEAL, WHAT WOULD IT BE AND WHY?

This is hard to answer because I have several favorite meals at local restaurants around South Walton, Florida. Assuming my last meal has unlimited options, I would choose Grits à Ya Ya from North Beach Social, crab cakes from Louis Louis, and the spicy tuna poke bowl from Nanbu Noodle Bar. I should probably also include the Amazon and Panhandle sushi rolls from Camille’s in Destin. This is going to be a big meal. Ha!

loving my whole life. First, there would be a big wooden table outside on a big wraparound front porch. Appetizers would be charbroiled oysters and fried green tomatoes! Supper would include hot lobster rolls (hello, 167 Raw), hot honey fried chicken (hello, Nashville), mashed potatoes and gravy, fried okra, mac and cheese (come on), and homemade sourdough bread from “Mama Jayne” (a dear family friend). My Aunt Patsy’s cheesecake, a Johnny Ray’s chocolate pie (hello, Birmingham), Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake, and my mom’s homemade ice cream with hot fudge sauce would be for dessert. But, most important would be having the people I love most around the table!

GABE MCMACKIN

I’VE OFTEN JOKED THAT IF I WERE ON DEATH ROW, MY LAST MEAL REQUEST WOULD BE STONE CRAB CLAWS AND CHAMPAGNE FROM A VINTAGE YET TO BE RELEASED. CAROLYN O’NEIL Writer, “London Calling!” @carolynoneil

I’ve often joked that if I were on death row, my last meal request would be stone crab claws and champagne from a vintage yet to be released. It would prolong my time on earth because they’d have to wait until stone crab season and for that champagne to be available. Thinking seriously about this question, I’d still order a huge pile of succulent stone crab claws, freshly cracked and served with picante Marie Rose sauce and Meyer lemon wedges. As a perfect pairing, my preferred champagne would be a 2006 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé. So, just the crab and the bubbles, preferably with a view of some pretty ocean harbor filled with bobbing boats and seabirds.

ALI PATTON Founder, Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake @mamamcakes

Executive Chef, Troutbeck @gabemcmackin

My last meal would have to be fruits and vegetables from my parents’ garden when I was small. And since we’re imagining things, they’re all from different times of the year and different times in my life, and none of them work together. I’d have a yellow plum tomato my mother grew only one year that was so incredibly sweet yet acidic, surrounded by the smell of the tomato leaves. Then I’d have the first asparagus poking out of the ground, so juicy, so crunchy—it’s a flavor I didn’t like until I had it raw, and I just love it. I’d eat all the raspberries in the patch. All these things, plus I'd have the first lobster and steamer clams I remember eating. It was summertime in Maine. We dug the clams, pulled the lobsters from the pots, and cooked it all straight away. It was so special, so messy, and so golden the way I remember it.

When I first read this question, it made me think, Well, that isn’t something you get asked very often! However, it didn’t take long before my deep Southern roots brought me back home, around the table with all the comfort foods I grew up V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 19



La conversation

Allô! We love connecting with the community and developing relationships with our readers! And we love seeing our readers share and post their experiences with VIE! True friendships develop from your presence in the community, and that’s what we love most— connecting and hearing our readers’ voices. Thank you, and we appreciate you! @e.f.sanjuan Thanks @kdb17 for taking a moment to pose with our custom three-panel Satina exterior gate in @alysbeachfl during this year’s @30awinefest! We love seeing how the weathering gives this grand courtyard entryway a different look and feel from when it was installed. Home by @khouryvogt, built by @gulfviewconstruction

@Children’s Volunteer Health Network, Inc. Thank you to our Soirée on the Bay media partner VIE magazine. This women-owned and operated luxury lifestyle magazine has already had quite the year with the achievement of a key industry milestone—the publication of its hundredth issue!

@theowengroupinteriors Soirée on the Bay – We had the pleasure of joining CVHN, VIE magazine, and some of our amazing clients this weekend at the inaugural Soirée on the Bay to raise money for a second mobile dental clinic for the kids of Walton and Okaloosa Counties in Florida. We are grateful to have been a part of South Walton’s newest signature event at the Dugas Estate! For more information about @cvhnkids05, visit CVHNkids.org!

@coastlinepicnics Sunset Memories!

LET’S TALK!

@Walton Group So enjoyed being a guest on the VIE Speaks podcast! Check out our conversation on the South Walton real estate market and some new inventory we have available on 30A!

@heritagedunes30a We are proud to have Gerald Burwell of @burwell_associates as the principal architect behind the overall design concept of The Heritage – A @viemagazine Legacy Show Home. Located in Grayton Beach, Florida, Burwell Associates focuses on high-end residential design for both new construction and addition/ renovation. The firm also does design projects of casework and furniture, as well as limited commercial projects including professional, restaurant, and retail. To learn more, visit BurwellAssociates. com or follow along at @burwell_associates!

Send VIE your comments and photos on our social media channels or by emailing us at info@viemagazine.com. We’d love to hear your thoughts. They could end up in the next La conversation!

VIEmagazine.com

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 21


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Bon appétit!

To learn more, visit Room4Dessert.com. Photo courtesy of Room 4 Dessert

Bon appétit! THE ESSENCE OF LIFE

Culinary art is at its climax when people and nature are at the center of each dish. Room 4 Dessert is a New York–based dessert bar that brings joy to people through fresh experiences. Seeking a purpose took R4D to the town of Ubud, Bali, where the power between people, nature, and community reshaped what the team celebrates and serves at R4D. Savory snacks, decadent desserts, and playful petits fours inspired by the orchard whisk you off into Ubud’s starry nights. This island dessert, paired with an exquisite drink, challenges you to let go and enjoy the old ways of nature.

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 23


Bon appétit!

A Family with

Culinary Chops

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For the Love of Food By FELICIA FERGUSON and LISA MARIE BURWELL


Photography courtesy of BIJOUX DESTIN

To fall in love with your chosen profession as a child and then continue working and honing your craft as an adult is a gift that many do not have the pleasure of experiencing. A chef with skill, passion, and enthusiasm gets to keep doing what he loves—to the tune of rave reviews from his adoring fans. Jack McGuckin has the goods to wow patrons with his culinary chops time after time.

A

s a young child, McGuckin preferred watching Julia Child, Justin Wilson, and Jacques Pépin on PBS while his friends were glued to cartoons. Under the tutelage of two Louisiana chefs, he continued mastering his culinary artistry as a young adult, preparing him for his next stint in 2003 as the sous chef at Bijoux Destin, located in Miramar Beach, Florida. Fast-forward nearly twenty years, and McGuckin is now the executive chef and co-owner of this fine-dining destination with his wife, Leslie. The restaurant is known for its fresh Gulf seafood, steaks, specialty dishes, and the sumptuous lounge and bar featuring handcrafted martinis, an extensive wine list, and more. Legacies are built and nurtured over time, and this truly is a love story and a family affair. “Our son wants to work at the restaurant, and our youngest daughter wants to own it,” Leslie says. As with any legacy, the future is as important as the past it is built upon, and if Jack and Leslie’s kids have any say, Bijoux is in good hands.

A man of few words with an unassuming intensity, Jack has a calming persona defying the stereotypical chef who yells or screams at his staff and acts the part of head honcho in the kitchen. “I just simply love cooking good food—it’s my passion,” Jack says. And his love flows into the culture of Bijoux Destin, creating a restaurant family instead of a company with an employer and employees. That familial atmosphere has led to long-term relationships rarely seen in the oft-revolving door of restaurant operations. Along with Leslie’s involvement for the past fourteen years, Melissa, the head server, has been with Bijoux just as long. Manager Atha Vermillion was hired as a server in 2009 and was promoted in 2014. William, now the bar manager, started in 2008 as a table busser at age eighteen, and pastry chef Hermes began his career in the kitchen as a dishwasher in 2006. Even new and short-term employees are absorbed into the community with gusto. Wait and kitchen staff who hail from Thailand, Brazil, Eastern Europe, Jamaica, Russia, and Kazakhstan have come and gone over the years, and they’re all encouraged to share their knowledge of cooking and the traditional dishes

they love. Their insights and practices in turn bring new inspirations to the menu. After Bijoux’s recent interior update, Leslie says the entire staff came together to help reset the dining rooms. “Everyone was excited to put it back together,” she says. “There were lots of hugs and pictures taken by the staff after being away from each other for two weeks during the refresh.” For Jack, a self-taught chef, those experiences with his staff are more than ways to cultivate relationships; they are avenues for professional growth. Traveling and experiencing other cultures have also inspired Jack and Leslie’s palates and ingenuity, creating opportunities to add new flavors to Bijoux’s dinners. Last year, they

Left: The “Black Skillet” filet at Bijoux Destin features a delectable filet mignon with buttermilk Gruyère mashed potatoes, port wine onion confit, and roasted garlicherb butter. Photo by Romona Robbins Opposite: Rack of lamb with mint pesto couscous, roasted baby carrots, curried yogurt sauce, and rosemary demi-glace V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 25


Bon appétit!

But no matter what changes come to the recipes, Bijoux’s ultimate goal is to focus on fresh, “slow foods.” We want to keep featuring local and regional ingredients as much as we can. spent a month in Hawaii, and the restaurant’s latest menu includes influences from that experience. But no matter what changes come to the recipes, Bijoux’s ultimate goal is to focus on fresh, “slow foods.” Leslie says, “We want to keep featuring local and regional ingredients as much as we can.” That commitment to quality, talent in the kitchen, and phenomenal service have led to multiple Best of the Emerald Coast awards, coveted Wine Spectator awards, and Florida Trend’s Golden Spoon awards, to name a few. A progressive restaurant with a contemporary and intimate atmosphere complete with rich tones, luxurious fabrics, natural stone, and metal accents, Bijoux makes you feel right at home as soon as you are greeted at the door. Whether diners visit for the first time or the fiftieth, they’re treated not only as valued guests, but as family, with warmth, love, and the promise that their evening will be unforgettable. “We have forged many amazing relationships over the years,” says Jack. “There is a distinct feel when you come into our restaurant. We are welcoming you into our own home and we are going to take care of you.” 26 | A P R IL 2 02 2


Opposite: Bijoux chef/ owner Jack McGuckin doing what he does best Photo by Romona Robbins Below left: Chef Jack McGuckin, Leslie McGuckin, and their children are building a family legacy at Bijoux Destin. Photo by Jamie Rich Photography Below: Don’t forget to stop by the lounge and bar for craft cocktails, including specialty martinis. Photo by Romona Robbins

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 27


Bon appétit!

We have forged many amazing relationships over the years. There is a distinct feel when you come into our restaurant. We are welcoming you into our own home and we are going to take care of you. Right: McGuckin’s menu at Bijoux is continually evolving with new takes on “coastal French cuisine with a New Orleans flair.”

Black Bear Bread Co. in Seaside, FL Photo by Jack Gardner

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Look for more from Bijoux Destin coming up in our luxury coffeetable book, COOK by VIE! V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 29


Bon appétit!

We strive to give back as much as we can to our community.

J

ack and Leslie’s commitment to a culture of love and giving extend beyond the restaurant’s walls and into the community that surrounds it. Bijoux often hosts nonprofit fundraisers, and Jack and his team donate their time and energy to charity dinners, culinary events, and other functions that support their neighbors. “We strive to give back as much as we can to our community,” Leslie says. “We participate in the Destin Charity Wine Auction, which has helped raise millions of dollars over the last fifteen years for local children in need.” In fact, Jack is the honorary chef for DCWAF this year. Bijoux is also a regular supporter of Sinfonia Gulf Coast, the Cultural Arts Alliance of Walton County, the Underwater Museum of Art, Mattie Kelly Arts Foundation, and more. Any evening spent at this beautiful establishment, which is tucked discreetly in the quaint Market Shops area of Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort, is sure to be a memorable one with family and friends both old and new. The spacious lawn and gazebo can also be rented for weddings and special events, with Chef Jack and the team ready to provide impeccable food and service. To say that Bijoux is a culinary jewel would not be an exaggeration, and we look forward to seeing how it will continue to shine!

Visit BijouxDestin.com to learn more or make a reservation. Follow along on Instagram @bijouxdestin.

Left: Bijoux’s fried oyster salad with crispy tempura-fried oysters, baby spinach, chopped egg, bacon, roasted red pepper, and creamy bacon balsamic aioli 30 | A P R IL 2 02 2


L’intermission

Beyond Perfection To learn more about Bar Shuka, visit BarShuka.com. Photo courtesy of Bar Shuka

Creativity and imagination fuse to birth a new funky style of cuisine at Bar Shuka Restaurant & Bar, a female-run café and watering hole that serves Israeli dishes in the heart of Frankfurt, Germany. All your senses will dance through the extraordinary experience that Bar Shuka offers. The Eastern Mediterranean food accompanied by the unusual ambience makes for an unforgettable evening.

Love, VIE xo V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 31




Bon appétit!

This Takes the Cake N E W F L AV O R S AWA I T

BY EMME MARTIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW CEBULKA

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Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake founder/owner Ali Patton

N

Mama Mitchell's Pound Cake has announced the addition of two new flavors coming this spring and summer!

ever underestimate the power of a good pound cake. It’s classic, unpretentious, and doesn’t subject itself to special occasions as other desserts might. A pound cake is not about the accoutrements or how it looks; it’s about what’s on the inside. Any true Southerner can discern the holy trinity in a perfect balance of butter, flour, and sugar. Given the simplicity of this combination, it may be challenging to find a pound cake that genuinely stands out; however, Ali Patton of Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake might take the cake with her family’s multigenerational recipe. VIE previously introduced readers to Mama Mitchell’s golden and buttery vanilla pound cakes in our May 2021 Culinary Issue. Patton’s business grew from her desire to continue her grandmother’s hospitable legacy and hundred-year-old pound cake recipe after she passed away in 2019. Shortly after, in 2020, the global pandemic

gave Patton the clarity she needed to realize she didn’t want to live a life of what-ifs. So, she trademarked Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake and started making cakes in her two-bedroom apartment. Now, two years and countless pound cakes later, Mama Mitchell’s has announced the addition of two new flavors for spring and summer! On March 4, National Pound Cake Day, Mama Mitchell’s announced the new lemon flavor available in the original and “midi” size. The fresh lemon pound cake incorporates the original mouthwatering texture with a citrus twist, making this a quintessential summertime treat. In addition to the lemon pound cake, on June 1, 2022, Mama Mitchell’s will also be launching a seasonal strawberry flavor made with the freshest in-season strawberries. This summertime favorite takes the classic dessert to another level. Pair either of these new flavors with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, fresh fruit, and a dollop of whip cream, and your guests will be dying to know your secret.

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Bon appétit!

Ali Patton with her mother, Ann, and sister, Aimee, celebrating with Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake

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“Whether you want to spoil your mom this Mother’s Day or impress guests at the Four th of July cookout, Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake is a perfect treat for any occasion."

U

nfortunately, the secret is safe with Ali Patton and Mama Mitchell, but you won’t be losing that homemade quality, as Patton bakes every Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake in her own kitchen with lots of love. These new flavors could not have come at a better time as the spring and summer holidays are right around the corner. So, whether you want to spoil your mom this Mother’s Day or impress guests at the Fourth of July cookout, Mama Mitchell’s Pound Cake is a perfect treat for any occasion.

Visit MamaMitchells.com to purchase a pound cake or learn more, and look for an exciting giveaway coming up on Instagram @viemagazine!

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Bon appétit!

Chef Paul

Par IS ON

THE JOURNEY OF A THOUSAND MILES BEGINS WITH A SINGLE STEP

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s is the case with most writers, I am a voracious reader, particularly enjoying biographies to learn about the paths successful people take. Some are quite direct, while others are filled with twists and turns. Chef Paul Albrecht’s course includes a bit of both. Albrecht was born in Czechoslovakia to German parents who were in the restaurant business. His father opened a restaurant in what is now Bratislava, Slovakia, in 1935, and the family lived above it. But that restaurant was not destined to be passed down from father to son. The 1945 Prague Offensive, the last Soviet military operation of World War II, resulted in the family being given twenty-four hours to leave their restaurant and home behind and return to Germany. Albrecht’s mother took him and his three sisters to the train and left the country. His father filled the family car with what he could and followed. Nearly a month later, the family was reunited through the efforts of the Red Cross. The government initially took over the building that was home to the restaurant; eventually, it was purchased by investors. Today, Hotel Albrecht’s luxury suites are located in the old family living quarters, and the wine cellar is its spa. Albrecht visited the eponymous hotel many years after it opened and laughed when the bartender noted that his credit card and the hotel bore the same name. Once the family resettled in Bavaria, Albrecht’s father wanted to go back into the restaurant business, but his health prevented it. His son’s entrance into the culinary world instead came in the form of a hotel and cooking school apprenticeship he began at the age of fourteen. The school was at the Munich International Airport, where he worked, learned, ate, and slept. Sometimes working Chef Paul Albrecht until midnight and starting again at 6:00 a.m., Albrecht found it very exciting. Every six months, the students would rotate to a different discipline, such as banquets, butchering, or pastries. Albrecht commented that the school owner became like family to him, and he admired his management style and way of

By CO L L E E N

SACHS

Photography courtesy of

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Albrecht served as the executive sous chef at the Hotel Sonesta in Washington, where Pano Karatassos, whose father was in the restaurant and food import business in Savannah, Georgia, was the executive chef and one of the first people Albrecht met in the United States. Eventually, Albrecht became executive chef and Karatassos the director of food and beverage at the Lodge of the Four Seasons in Lake Ozark, Missouri. The two began talking about opening a restaurant together.

Chef Paul Albrecht’s bone-in filet with red bliss potatoes, Asiago cheese, Brussels sprouts, carrots, and mushrooms

Albre cht’s entrance into the culinary world instead came in the form of a hotel and cooking s chool and apprenticeship he b egan at the age of fourteen.

Right: Vegetable terrine by Chef Paul

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motivating people. One day, the owner came to him and told him he was doing a good job and was to be rewarded, saying, “I’ll give you two dollars more, but don’t tell anyone.” Albrecht kept the secret. After graduation, the owner took the graduates into the city for a traditional celebration meal of roast pig and beer. That’s when the graduates learned that they had all been given the reward. But Albrecht says, “It was good motivation, thinking I was the only one.”

After graduating at age seventeen, Albrecht learned classic French cuisine, the standard by which most Western cooking was measured. He spent nine years working at highly regarded establishments in Lausanne, Switzerland. But in the late 1960s, as the world was once again in the midst of political turmoil, Albrecht’s journey took a significant turn both professionally and personally. Trade magazines were filled with information about European cooks being enticed to work in the United States. He was also dating a young woman from Greece. He was counseled to continue focusing on his career instead of his personal life and to avoid taking a position in the United States that would make him subject to the draft during the Vietnam War. Nevertheless, Albrecht’s relationship and his interest in working in the United States continued to grow. By 1968, he had a restaurant job in Washington, D.C., and a family that included a six-month-old child.

On a snowy day in 1979, the pair opened Pano’s & Paul’s in Atlanta, Georgia. The restaurant was an immediate hit. Albrecht notes that the food scene in Atlanta was very different at that time. “There weren’t many restaurants, and most people ate at their clubs.” Laughing, he says they “came up with a huge menu written in French with English explanations, for some unknown reason.” The restaurant was located in the Buckhead neighborhood, and Albrecht relates, “We had no idea where we landed was so influential.” He served fried lobster tail and says it put him on the map. Accolades started rolling in. The eatery was next to a hardware store, and a New York newspaper joked that you could go there to have a gourmet meal and buy a hammer. The team began opening new restaurants, including Buckhead Diner, Chops, and Pricci—the fried lobster tail was on all of the menus at the insistence of the diners. Albrecht was also named Atlanta Chef of the Year in 1989 and is a noted master chef. He has served presidents and presidential candidates, sports figures, actors, and other celebrities. And if you want to see him in action, you can catch his preparation of Chilean sea


Bon appétit!

Chef Paul’s tuna tartare salad with fresh greens, edamame, carrots, cabbage, radish, avocado, and cucumber

bass with saffron grits on Great Chefs of America via a YouTube upload. Albrecht is modest about his accomplishments, saying, “What you are doing now is what is most important.” In the late 1990s, the Godfather of Atlanta Cuisine—a moniker bestowed upon Albrecht by Zagat—took another turn and moved to the Florida Panhandle to open Chef Paul’s in Carillon Beach. The restaurant was excellent (one of the very few places I have had the pleasure of eating soufflé potatoes), but Albrecht was not finished in Atlanta. He and his son Patrick, who also apprenticed in restaurants in Europe, started Great Food, Inc., operating Paul’s Restaurant, Paul’s on the Patio, Vinings Fish Company, and The Social at Vinings. Albrecht retired in 2015, but it was short-lived. His wife of more than fifty years told him, “If you retire, you expire.” His friend Cody Khan, the chairman and CEO of Holiday Inn’s properties in Panama City, convinced Albrecht to return to Florida to become part of his hospitality team covering three properties: the Holiday Inn Panama City, the nearby Holiday Inn Express, and the large Holiday Inn Resort on the

beach. “With Chef Paul’s experience and talent, we have been able to elevate offerings for guests at all our priorities with a culinary program that far exceeds what most hotels typically can provide,” Khan says. “We’re thrilled to have Paul on board and continue raising the bar at the hotels and Holiday Golf Club.” The championship eighteen-hole, par-72 public course, also managed by the local Holiday Inn Panama City team, is nestled between Highway 98 and Grand Lagoon and celebrates its fifty-fifth anniversary this year. The chef has an affinity for the Northwest Florida coastal area, maintaining a home in South Walton for many years. He says the food business is a different challenge every day—and he has had his share of challenges lately. In 2018, Hurricane Michael caused devastating damage to the Holiday Inn Panama City. The hotel reopened in mid-2019 only to have the pandemic begin several months later. Today, it’s thriving as a bustling destination for tourists and corporate retreats year-round. Holiday Golf Club, meanwhile, is gearing up for a total renovation to begin later in 2022, including a sizable state-of-the-art restaurant with Chef Paul at the helm of menu creation and

libations. This new brand overhaul for the golf club is in the developmental stages by the Holiday Inn Panama City team, with new membership offers to the public to be announced. Still, Albrecht continues to work through all the challenges to do what he does best: provide good food and exemplary service to his guests. “People don’t eat the same way they did thirty or forty years ago.” He says he leans away from meat now and loves to feature black grouper from the Gulf. The master chef continues to change menus to keep up with changing tastes and needs, including making vegan mayonnaise and pizzas with vegan cheese. While it may have been evident when he was a child that Albrecht would become a chef, his path has had many interesting detours to bring him to the Florida Panhandle. The residents and visitors of the area are grateful for all of them.

VISIT HOLIDAYGOLFCLUB.COM TO LEARN MORE OR PLAN A VISIT. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 41


Steak | Seafood | Sushi | Dessert | Cocktails Private Rooms and Full-Service Catering Available.

Firefly Restaurant & Lounge at the Shoppes of Edgewater Panama City Beach, Florida

850.249.3359 • fireflypcb.com


Petite pause

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Modern-day dining meets live entertainment at The Electric Jane, one of Nashville’s newest hot spots. No detail is spared here as the food, entertainment, and service are all specially curated to offer guests the best experience, whether they come for a lively brunch or an eclectic dinner that spans into the night. Chef Ryan Costanza delivers a diverse and globe-spanning menu that reflects the vast array of talent on the stage, bringing guests novel culinary and music experiences at once. The interiors are equally groovy, making a night at The Electric Jane a cultured cocktail of fun!

Electric

Visit TheElectricJane.com for more information. Photo by Nathan Zucker

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Bon appétit!

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Be sp oke Experience TROUTBECK LEADS T H E WA Y 44 | A P R IL 2 02 2


By E M M E M A R T I N Photography by

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M AT T H E W M A N C U S O

t Troutbeck, the goal has always been to provide guests with an authentic experience. It’s a unique place situated at the eastern edge of the Hudson Valley in Dutchess County, New York. Here, the surroundings contain a particular type of magic that enhances restoration to the fullest. The countryside views and the hiking and fishing opportunities are the first clues of Troutbeck’s idyllic environment. However, a quick Google search will reveal a rich history that implies more than your average estate-turned-inn. It continues to be a place of intention many years later. The property began as a private estate built in 1765 by the Bentons, a prominent agricultural family from New York. Dinner parties at the estate often saw the likes of Mark Twain, Henry David Thoreau, and Ralph Waldo Emerson stopping by. When Colonel Joel Spingarn and his wife, Amy, bought the estate in the early 1900s, it evolved into a refuge for writers, poets, creatives, and social justice advocates. Sinclair Lewis, Ernest Hemingway, Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall, and President Theodore Roosevelt were among these distinguished guests.

The dishes at Troutbeck incorporate vibrant ingredients that are as beautiful as they are nourishing. Right: Executive chef and culinary creative director Gabe McMackin V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 45


Bon appétit!

The grounds at Troutbeck convey rich stories from years past, and new ones continue to be written all the time. The chef explains that energy is preserved in the food thanks to its brief journey from the ground to the table. “When you pick something, the energy changes. It may lose density, water, etcetera.” Therefore, the more straightforward the transportation method, the more alive and fresh the food tastes and the better it is for the consumer. Planning the menus at Troutbeck is a celebration for McMackin. First, his team takes inventory of what is available locally and goes from there. He explains his process as creating meals that make “special sense.” For example, he enjoys honoring the richness of color in the fall or the spikes of green in the spring. In the wintertime, warm barbecues give guests a sense of comfort. The relevance to the seasons and local fare connects guests to the moment and place in a profoundly holistic way—“the way,” as McMackin describes.

Above: The Manor House at Troutbeck was built in 1919 as a residential property but has been carefully updated to meet modern standards. Opposite left and top right: Dishes and flavors at Troutbeck’s restaurants depend on the season and what is available locally. The chef and his team have formed strong relationships with farmers and markets in the area, ensuring the freshest ingredients year-round. Opposite bottom right: Chef McMackin enjoys embracing nature and bringing people together through food. 46 | A P R IL 2 02 2

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oday, Troutbeck continues to honor its legacy as a creative refuge, welcoming everyone who desires to get away for a bespoke experience. One of the ways it does this is through its locally sourced menu by Chef Gabe McMackin, the previous chef-owner of The Finch restaurant in Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, where he earned a Michelin star in his first year of operating. McMackin brings a deep understanding of hospitality and virtuous cooking to the table at the inn. To him, good food comes down to a simple philosophy: if you respect the food, it will respect you. To McMackin, the art of producing a respectful meal requires support from the entire community. It begins with the seasons, which advise the farmers on what to grow. Then, these growers put considerable care and time into their crops that directly reflect the land. “Forming relationships with the local farmers is essential to understanding the food you consume,” McMackin says. Their connection to local vendors in the Hudson and Harlem Valleys allows Troutbeck’s culinary staff to offer guests the purest form of nourishment in true farm-to-table style. It also reinforces the concept of food as a collective experience.

The multiple dining outlets at Troutbeck offer different menus depending on the occasion, as any fine curator of experiences would suggest. So, a watermelon salad or lobster roll complement an afternoon by the pool, or perhaps some Pointy Snout caviar with a bottle of champagne will be on the lineup. The Pool Grill may be the most relaxed of Troutbeck’s dining options, but it does not hesitate to enrich an already sublime moment with something luxurious. Special occasions or romantic date nights are in store in The Dining Room, which seats seventy-six and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. But of course, for the most intimate nights, in-room dining is always a possibility. When McMackin explains his secret to Michelin-star quality hospitality, he underlines the importance of genuine synchronicity between the staff and guests. When the team works together, the sanguinity is contagious. “The employees look for the same experience as the guests,” says McMackin. Everyone has a similar mission: to feel connected to each other and the land.


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ach guest room at Troutbeck is different from the next, thoughtfully located in existing structures that have been updated to meet modern standards. The Manor House contains seventeen guest rooms with charm and novelty throughout. There are also the Benton Cottage and the Garden House, which each include four bedrooms and elegant amenities, such as sumptuous Frette linens promoting the most restorative sleep of one’s life. The property is meant to feel like home—a full-circle connection to its earlier days. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 47


Bon appétit!

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Whether they come for a relaxing getaway from the frantic city, a work conference, or to recharge their creative juices, everyone is invited to experience the unrushed way of Troutbeck.

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othing is rigid at Troutbeck. Even the wellness center is versatile; the studio may hold a yoga class one day and a dance class the next. Letting go of expectations lends a feeling of levity as guests wander through the beautiful Hudson Valley and come back to sit by the fire.

The grounds at Troutbeck convey rich stories from years past, and new ones are written all the time. “The kind of experience guests have is up to them,” McMackin says, and the staff is happy to facilitate whatever that may be. So, whether they come for a relaxing getaway from the frantic city, a work conference, or to recharge their creative juices, everyone is invited to experience the unrushed way of Troutbeck.

To learn more about Troutbeck or to book your stay, visit Troutbeck.com.

Above left: The Quonnie Bay oysters with snapdragon mignonette at Troutbeck are prettier than the average plate of mollusks. Above right: Troutbeck’s menu offers an abundance of vegan and vegetarian options. Right: Guests travel near and far to experience the menu at Troutbeck, and it is easy to see why. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 49


Bon appétit!

T H E

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very culture has its special dishes—those recipes that express history and heritage. In the Lowcountry, one such dish is shrimp and grits. This recipe defines our geography. The people here use what’s swimming in the creeks (shrimp), what’s growing on the land (grits), and sometimes throw in what’s grazing on it (pork). Out of this trio comes a meal that is suitable for any time, anywhere, and anyone. Fishermen, out for long hauls, make convenient shrimp and grits in a single pot by combining grits (they’re cheap) with the day’s catch (sweet shrimp are abundant in South Carolina and Georgia). They’ll toss both in a little seawater, cook them down, and dine like kings. Governors’ chefs, striving to impress visiting dignitaries, serve the iconic shrimp and grits in sterling chafing dishes in candlelit dining rooms. Caterers wishing to cast spells spoon shrimp and grits into martini glasses at cocktail parties. And those of us who live in the Lowcountry make shrimp and grits for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner—a perfect treat for everyone who enters the house. Grits come from the Native American preparation of Indian corn. The tribes ground the corn in a stone mill, achieving the characteristic gritty texture. Today, the best grits come from the Carolinas. My favorites are Anson Mills from Charleston, made with white (not yellow) grits, Adluh Flour Mills from Columbia, South Carolina, 50 | A P R IL 2 02 2

SH R I M P

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and Moss White Grits from North Carolina. Rule number one—never use instant grits! Northerners turn their nose up at our grain because they have only tasted the instant variety. Restaurants using instant grits should be ordered to cease and desist. How difficult is it to have a stockpot full of grits warming on the back burner? Grits can sit for a long time if you keep adding liquid and occasionally stirring so the top doesn’t harden and the bottom doesn’t stick. Like risotto, grits are decidedly more delicious cooked in stock instead of water. Even the long-cooked variety becomes better with flavorful stock. For the stock when making shrimp and grits, you must use fresh shrimp because the shells are as important as the meat. When shelling, place the shrimp in one bowl and the shells directly into a stockpot. Pour lots of water and a little sea salt on top of the shells and put the pot on a burner over high heat. The minute the water almost boils, turn it down to a simmer. Ignore decades-old French directions calling for twenty minutes to make seafood stock. Thirty minutes is okay, but an hour or two is better. This aromatic and concentrated stock makes eaters wonder if your house sits on a tidal creek, so flavorful will your S&G be.


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Bon appétit!

THIS RECIPE DEFINES OUR GEOGRAPHY. THE PEOPLE HERE USE WHAT’S SWIMMING IN THE CREEKS (SHRIMP), WHAT’S GROWING ON THE LAND (GRITS), AND SOMETIMES THROW IN WHAT’S GRAZING ON IT (PORK). OUT OF THIS TRIO COMES A MEAL THAT IS SUITABLE FOR ANY TIME, ANYWHERE, AND ANYONE.

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low-cooking grits marry perfectly with stock made from the sea. The two flavors combine to create depth and complexity. Sometimes, for a bit of a luxurious, mysterious mouthfeel, I add a little whole milk at the end of cooking my grits. Some may disapprove, but I say try it. The key to long-cooking grits is not to walk away from them too long. Stir frequently. This is not a pain in the ass! Every five minutes, maybe ten, give a stir. In the meantime, make a cocktail, make a salad, set the table, or devein the shrimp. Do not check your email or start texting. The shrimp look better deveined and will curl nicely as they cook, but don’t worry about it if you don’t have time. Fill the bowl of shelled shrimp with cold water, a few cubes of ice, and a generous sprinkling of sea salt. Even though the crustaceans have already given their lives, this extra step makes them seem fresher, like you scooped them from the stream in the backyard just before dinner. Thirty minutes before cooking, drain them in a colander. Shrimp and grits are a culinary equivalent of the little black dress—good for all occasions. An LBD needs accessories to make it individual. So does this staple of the Lowcountry coast, only we add garnishes. Just like accessorizing, this can be a tricky business. The recipe is not a catchall. We like appropriate accessories—for example, mushrooms. Quartered or halved, mushrooms are not out of place in the bowl. They grow in forests right near the waterways. To honor the South Carolina pig, I like hunks of sautéed andouille in my S&G. So did Sean Brock when he founded Husk restaurant in Charleston. The pork’s spicy, salty flavor highlights the sweetness of Lowcountry shrimp. Consider size when slicing the andouille. Think of how you want spoons to be filled, look, and taste when eating. I like the shrimp and sausage to be similar in size,

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a one-bite portion. I want eaters’ brains to concentrate on the various hits of subtle flavor, not focus on cutting a piece of sausage into a smaller size. Consider color, as well. My bowls of shrimp and grits have a pink hue from a diced ripe tomato tossed in near the end to add juiciness. The blush color is only a by-product. Although some say adding tomatoes is sacrilegious, I beg to differ. The rosy shade and succulence elevate the dish. Chives sprinkled on top before serving add their emerald color and an assertive bite. In my thirty years of making shrimp and grits, I have found the recipe I like the best. This is not to say next year I will use the same one. Recipes evolve, and you must make them your own. My goal is to bring guests to ten seconds of silence after their first bite. Then I know memories have been made. You do not need 101 dinner options in your arsenal; the key is mastering a few recipes. If your guests love your shrimp and grits, or whatever your specialty may be, they will never tire of coming to your house and eating it. Pleasure is pleasure, after all.

Suzanne Pollak, a mentor and lecturer in the fields of home, hearth, and hospitality, is the founder and dean of the Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits. She is the coauthor of Entertaining for Dummies, The Pat Conroy Cookbook, and The Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits: A Handbook of Etiquette with Recipes. Born into a diplomatic family, Pollak was raised in Africa, where her parents hosted multiple parties every week. Her South Carolina homes have been featured in the Wall Street Journal Mansion section and Town & Country magazine. Visit CharlestonAcademy.com or contact her at Suzanne@CharlestonAcademy.com to learn more.


FOR T H E G R I TS : 4–5 cups shrimp stock Salt 1 cup white stone-ground grits 1 cup whole milk, if needed

FOR T H E G R I TS : Bring 8 cups of water, shrimp shells, and 2 teaspoons salt to a boil over high heat. Simmer for 30 minutes to 2 hours, then strain. Throw the shrimp shells away. Bring shrimp stock to a boil over high heat. Slowly whisk in grits, then reduce to a simmer and continue cooking until the grits are soft, about 30–40 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon every few minutes. If the grits get too thick, add one-fourth cup of whole milk, as needed. Season with salt and pepper.

FOR T H E S H R I M P : 2 pounds large shrimp, shelled and deveined 1 pound spicy andouille sausage or thickly sliced smoked bacon

About ten minutes before the grits are finished, prepare the shrimp.

FOR T H E S H R I M P : Place thickly sliced sausage in a medium pan over

1–2 Tablespoons olive oil

medium heat and cook until the edges of the sau-

1 small onion, finely chopped

a tablespoon of olive oil if needed. Sauté the onion

8 ounces fresh mushrooms,

softened, about 5 to 10 minutes.

sage start getting crispy—about 10 minutes. Add and mushrooms in the pan until lightly browned and

wiped clean; whole, halved, or quartered, depending on size

Increase heat to high and add shrimp, tomatoes, and

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

about 1 to 2 minutes per side depending on the size

1 tomato, diced 1 lemon, juiced Hot sauce to taste 1 bunch chives, thinly sliced, for garnish

garlic. Sauté until pink and just cooked through, of the shrimp. Add lemon juice, 2 teaspoons of hot sauce (or more), and salt if needed. Stir for a minute or so. Divide the grits among four bowls, then top each with the shrimp and sausage mixture. Finally, sprinkle with the green chives. Bon appétit!

Shrimp & Grits

Ingredients

Directions

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473 RICHARD JACKSON BLVD, PANAMA CITY BEACH, FL 32407 | (850) 238-8340 | AMERICANCHARLIE.COM


L’intermission

Invitation Only For more information on applying for Social Access at The Bath Club, please email Social@TheBathClub.com or call (786) 453-6198. Photo courtesy of The Bath Club

The Oaxacan Firing Squad cocktail offers a small glimpse into Miami’s newest temptation. The thriving city has always had a specialty in hospitality, and its ability to reinvent itself takes this concept even further. Inspired by the glory days of the Magic City in the 1950s and ’60s comes a swanky and seductive new hot spot operating on an invitation-only basis. The Collins Room embraces the glamour of proper cocktails, eloquent cuisine, and good old-fashioned camaraderie through a timelessly chic setting located in The

Love, VIE xo

Bath Club, Miami Beach’s oldest and most exclusive private club. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 55





Voyager

For more information, visit LylesLondon.com. Photo courtesy of Lyle’s

Voyager

SEE THE WORLD

This dish emphasizes the art in culinary arts. arts. A sweet and crunchy salad that captures the vibrant colors of spring presents itself as a nicely balanced prelude to a meal that appeases both sight and taste. Lyle’s restaurant in London is a one Michelin-star restaurant that uses superb seasonal ingredients to provide flavors that are clean and a joy to experience. A dish that is both nutritional and appealing—what more could you ask for?

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Voyager

London

A sweet display at Ottolenghi in Chelsea Photo courtesy of Ottolenghi Opposite: The charming Charlotte Street Hotel Photo courtesy of Charlotte Street Hotel

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Calling! FOODIE FINDS ACROSS the POND

By CAROLYN O’NEIL

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ello from Carolyn in London! After two years of staying close to home in Atlanta, I accepted the invitation to teach for four months at the Florida State University London Study Centre. From January through April, I became a Londoner. The year 2022 marks the fiftieth anniversary of FSU’s London program, so as an alumna, I’m thrilled to be celebrating with students and staff across the pond. As soon as I arrived, I began my research on things to do, what to see, and where to eat and drink. Here’s a roundup of what’s new, notable, and not to miss in London.

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LONDON NOW As international travel restrictions lift and the pandemic fades in the United Kingdom, it’s even easier to visit and enjoy the lovely and lively city of London. Theaters are staging new productions, museums are launching grand exhibits, iconic events such as the Chelsea Flower Show and Royal Ascot are back, the world-renowned culinary scene is hopping, and it’s Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee celebrating her seventieth year on the throne. If you’ve always loved London or have had it on your travel list, now is a great time to plan a visit as the city ramps up with resilient spirit and style. “It feels like every London attraction and hotel took advantage of the pandemic to do renovation projects,” says Emily Kanders Goldfischer, the founder and editor of Hertelier.com and London correspondent for LuxuryTravelAdvisor.com. “From refurbished guest rooms to new restaurants and even rooftop pools, every hotel I have been to recently is in top condition and the staff is eager to welcome back international travelers.” Newbies on the London hotel scene include the Great Scotland Yard Hotel, The Londoner, and the Pan Pacific. Meanwhile, tradition continues to reign supreme in the hotel market with historic favorites such as the architecturally amazing Fitzroy on Russell Square, the elegant Langham in Marylebone, the tony Connaught in the heart of Mayfair, and the almost secretly situated Stafford near St. James Palace. London’s luxury hotel greats are all spruced up to retain glorious appeal as “your residence whilst in London,” which is printed on many of the hotels’ calling cards.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: The 1920s-inspired Le Magritte Bar at The Beaumont hotel Photo courtesy of The Beaumont, © Zac and Zac Pumpkin Pie from Ottolenghi Celeriac Shawarma from Ottolenghi Photos courtesy of Ottolenghi The American Bar at The Stafford in London Photo courtesy of The Stafford

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Most luxury hotels have sophisticated, buzzy, and welcoming cocktail bars even if you’re not staying there. The American Bar at The Stafford is definitely on my not-to-miss list. Get to know the staff at The Stafford, and you may just be invited to tour the hotel’s wine cellar situated below ground in a series of tunnels used as a bomb shelter during the Second World War. Other hotel highlights include the Charlotte Street Hotel, cheerfully appointed in the heart of Bloomsbury district with an in-house screening room and a cozy drawing room for guests to relax, complete with an honesty bar to mix your end-of-day G&T or perhaps sip a British sparkling wine from the chalky soils of southeast England. Another small beauty is The Beaumont Hotel, with art deco glamour and its new Le Magritte Bar and Terrace. The dark walnut paneling and deep red leather club chairs set the perfect scene for a whimsical list of cocktails and a bar menu featuring miniature corn dogs and French toast bites topped with black truffles. Located on a quiet garden square, The Beaumont was refurbished in 2021 by New York-based designer Thierry Despont. You’d never know that this elegant building was once a parking garage for Selfridges department store located nearby.

CULINARY ADVENTURES ABOUND Even on a rainy night, the stars shine all over London’s vibrant and inventive dining scene. There is a myriad of mealtime experiences, from cutting-edge contemporary bistros to world-renowned, Michelin-starred restaurants and cozy neighborhood spots specializing in everything from Turkish to Thai to Italian cuisine. And now that restrictions are lifted, the famous food markets, such as the historic Borough Market founded in 1756, are coming back to life, filled with a locally produced bounty of cheeses, honey, seafood, and freshly baked bread and pastries. “London is one of the most international cities in the world; you can find any type of cuisine prepared expertly at pretty much every price point,” says Goldfischer. “It’s an incredible city for foodies.” Here’s a sampling of my favorite foodie finds in London.


LONDON IS ONE OF THE MOST INTERNATIONAL CITIES IN THE WORLD, YOU CAN FIND ANY TYPE OF CUISINE PREPARED EXPERTLY AT PRETTY MUCH EVERY PRICE POINT,

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SUPER NEW IL BORRO TUSCAN BISTRO: So new even some Londoners don’t know about it yet, this sleek and modern new restaurant on Berkeley Square is an extension of the famed Ferragamo family’s Il Borro country estate in Tuscany. This is Tuscan Italian cuisine at its most fashionable and finest. Above: A fresh batch of pastries at Ottolenghi Above right: Ottolenghi serves ready-to-eat meals and sweets visitors can take to go or enjoy while dining in. Photos courtesy of Ottolenghi Opposite top: The main dining room at Il Borro Tuscan Bistro in London Photo by Jack Hardy Opposite bottom Green broccoli soup from the Farmacy Photo courtesy of the Farmacy 64 | A P R IL 2 02 2

IlBorroTuscanBistro.co.uk THE IVY ASIA CHELSEA: The newest member of the Ivy Collection of restaurants, all well-situated in London’s best neighborhoods, The Ivy Asia Chelsea is a garden of delights, with jade green floors and riotously colorful décor. If reservations are hard to secure, grab a seat at the bar and watch the dance of bartenders shaking, stirring, and crafting cocktails, including an Asian-inspired negroni served in a wood-smoked cloche. Ready for a late night? DJs spin on the weekends. TheIvyAsiaChelsea.com OTTOLENGHI CHELSEA: The newest culinary outpost of London restaurateur, international best-selling cookbook author, and Israeli-born chef Yotam Ottolenghi, the Chelsea location is one of his “delis”—serving expertly crafted foods to take away or enjoy on-site, presented on signature white counters in displays of salads, savories, and cakes. Ottolenghi.co.uk/restaurants/chelsea

IF YOU’VE ALWAYS LOVED LONDON OR HAVE HAD IT ON YOUR TRAVEL LIST, NOW IS A GREAT TIME TO PLAN A VISIT AS THE CITY RAMPS UP WITH RESILIENT SPIRIT AND STYLE.


SUPER NOTABLE THE WOLSELEY: It’s always a good idea to go to The Wolseley. Celebrated for their breakfasts, lauded for lunch, and a destination for dinner as well as cocktails and bites in the bar, this all-day café in the European tradition on London’s iconic Piccadilly keeps wowing the well-heeled crowd. We saw Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber dining there with his little dog. TheWolseley.com THE GUN: Their tagline is “get to The Gun,” and you’ll enjoy the journey if you hop on a Thames boat, cruise to Canary Wharf, and find The Gun in the Docklands overlooking the river. The building dates back to the eighteenth century, and Lord Horatio Nelson frequented it to visit with Lady Emma Hamilton in an upstairs room. Today it’s a gastropub with exceptional food and drink. There’s a fireplace to enjoy a whiskey and a gin garden when the weather’s right. TheGunDocklands.com BERNERS TAVERN: The wow factor of the floor-to-ceiling art in gilded frames on every wall of this vast room alerts you to memorable moments ahead. The Dover sole, deboned and served from a tableside trolley with a view of the chef brigade working seamlessly in the open kitchen at the back of the room, is all the theater I need in London. BernersTavern.com PIED À TERRE: Located on the storybook restaurant row of Charlotte Street in Bloomsbury, this Michelin-starred restaurant is a jewel box filled with the food art of executive chef Asimakis Chaniotis, who presents fine French cuisine through the lens of his nature-loving Greek heritage. You’ll also find a vegan tasting menu voted the number one experience in the UK. Pied-a-Terre.co.uk V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 65


Voyager One of the year’s biggest celebrations will be in June for the official kickoff to Her Majesty the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee. Special exhibitions will follow throughout the year, including the Tower of London’s Superbloom display of meadow flowers planted in and around the moat and the reopening of The Royal Mews, showing the Queen’s carriages, cars, and horses. “There is lots of excitement and anticipation for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee,” says Goldfischer. “Nobody does pageantry like the English!” Maybe I’ll stay just a little while longer.

LET'S DO LONDON!

Above: Ottolenghi is just one of many charming eateries in Chelsea. Photo courtesy of Ottolenghi

An audience with the Queen awaits you. Well, at least an audience with her home, Buckingham Palace, scheduled to open for tours once again from July 22 to October 2, 2022. Book online to see inside the grand palace and its gardens. “There is no better time to embrace Britain’s royal heritage and regal experiences, including our grand stately homes and royal and historic walking tours,” says Paul Gauger, senior vice president for the Americas at VisitBritain.

Head to VisitBritain.org to start planning your trip. Carolyn O’Neil is an award-winning Atlanta-based food writer who specializes in culinary travel and healthy lifestyles. She believes that travel is the ultimate way to learn about the people of the world and that cuisine is the most exciting way to learn about their histories and cultures. Visit her blog at TheHappyHealthyKitchen.com.


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Voyager

Northern California is known for rolling vineyards so beautiful you can almost taste the wine just by looking, but the state’s central region is growing in popularity for vino tourism. Photo by Dan Meyers Opposite: Nothing beats a wine-centric picnic in the valley. Photo by Kate Hliznitsova

California’s

Hidden Gem Cruisin' Central Coast Wine Country B y Anthea Gerrie 68 | A P R IL 2 02 2


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t was the cult movie Sideways—boys on a stag week in the glorious vineyards of the Santa Rita Hills and Santa Ynez Valley—that first shone the spotlight on fantastic California wine being made as far south as Santa Barbara. You could visit the wineries then, and you can see even more of them now, by appointment, at the start of a delightfully sybaritic week driving north from Los Angeles to San Francisco. But as it progresses, this trip is about feasting the eyes even more than tantalizing the taste buds. The hit TV series Big Little Lies showcased the scenic shoreline of Monterey County along the thundering Pacific as its heroines crisscrossed the iconic Bixby Bridge. It’s a key landmark on California State Route 1, considered America’s most beautiful coastal highway. Great wine is made here, too, in the hinterlands where the rolling green valley meets the cooling ocean mist to produce the state’s most exquisite chardonnay and pinot noir. Add in the intervening wine country of Santa Maria, San Luis Obispo, and Paso Robles, then join the dots on the map. Now you have a road trip made in heaven along a route that—like the award-winning vintages whose labels reflect its geography—has come to be known as the Central Coast. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 69


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great place to start a culinary tour is Los Olivos, the tiny but cute country town less than an hour north of Santa Barbara where the Sideways friends and lovers feasted and flirted. The great date-night dinner they enjoyed looks like the stuff only found in movies, but the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe is a real restaurant serving delicious food from its organic farm, washed down with bottles from its Bernat vineyards. Owners Shawnda and Sam Marmorstein are among the few California growers of the Sangiovese and Nebbiolo grapes so prized in Italy, and they keenly showcase Central Coast wineries. This is the place to eat beautiful local salads—but don’t miss the exquisite appetizer featuring a mélange of seven varieties of green, black, and purple Mediterranean olives generous enough to feed four, with an order of homemade focaccia.

Above: Bien Nacido Vineyards Photo courtesy of Bien Nacido Opposite left: Dining at Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe Photo by Anthea Gerrie Opposite right: An inviting glass of Lucia wine at Nepenthe, overlooking the California coastline in Big Sur Photo by Juan Ricardo Ramirez 70 | A P R IL 2 02 2

Another reason to visit Los Olivos is the tasting room of the Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills Estates. It’s worth the trip just to sip Solomon Hills chardonnay, a personal favorite from this winery group, whose chardonnay grapes also go into its outstanding rival, the much-acclaimed Au Bon Climat. Before thinking of following your lunch with a tasting and moving on, note the café at Los Olivos is not the only restaurant in Sideways worth a stop on a real-life road trip. At The Hitching Post II, a longtime hangout of the film’s writer, the area’s great local pinot noirs are debated in the movie. Indeed, this pinot-focused eatery does field a fabulous tasting flight of the best, including its flagship Highliner and the divine Fiddlestix from Lompoc. But what the cameras don’t see is the amazing food—superb steaks grilled over an open oakwood fire alongside huge artichokes and melting heads of garlic, with a bitter chocolate tart for dessert that perfectly complements the pinot. This roadhouse is as rustic and raucous as Los Olivos is refined, but it’s lots of fun, especially for a group.

“This trip is about feasting the eyes even more than tantalizing the taste buds.”

The adjacent towns of Buellton and Solvang, founded by Danish settlers, make an obvious base for both The Hitching Post II and Los Olivos, and you can get authentic Danish pastries in one of their bakeries for breakfast. But a much more special sleepover choice is the Santa Ynez Inn, in the eponymous peaceful hamlet just a few minutes drive from both dining destinations. The interiors have a Victorian feel, and outside, a lovely garden is perfect for sipping local wine during the daily pouring hour. Plus, guests get tasting passports offering complimentary tastings at more than twenty local wineries.


For many, the logical next stop north is San Luis Obispo, where US Highway 101 meets State Route 1. It’s such a quick segue from valley to coast that for years, turning off here stopped me from discovering California’s best-kept secret that no wine aficionado should miss. While San Luis Obispo County does produce fine chardonnay and pinot noir in the Edna and Arroyo Grande valleys, Paso Robles, a little further up the 101 and connecting with Route 1 via a safe and scenic canyon highway, is the home of highly successful experimentation with Syrah and other grapes native to Franc’s Rhône Valley—and it’s a great place to stay. For such a small, sleepy town, Paso Robles has more than its fair share of fine restaurants—including one boasting a Michelin star—and two delightful boutique hotels. We stayed at the charming Stables Inn, a chic motel that Travel & Leisure voted one of the world’s best new places to stay. At Les Petites Canailles (translation: young rascals), we feasted with locals in a deceptively casual, wood-floored room on authentic French bistro favorites like steak tartare and tarte flambée, prepared by Julien, who moved back from France to California, where his folks make wine—so expect a great selection of the region’s finest bottles. Not to be missed is the Paris-Paso pistachio-scented dessert based on old-world patisserie favorite Paris-Brest. The joy of wine tasting in Paso Robles is that wineries are so concentrated there’s no shortage of drivers available to facilitate tasting tours around a handful of the best. Given time to visit only one, I would opt for Tablas Creek, cofounded by the great Rhône estate of

Beaucastel. The term Rhone Rangers has been given to the talented Californians doing great things with grapes of that French region, notably Syrah and the fragrant, floral Viognier. Tablas is a long, gorgeous stretch up Adelaida Road to just after the turnoff that connects with State Route 46, the canyon road leading to the coast, and its tasting flights are served in a beautiful garden. Or bring back a bottle to the fairy-lit courtyard of the Stables Inn and enjoy it before dinner in Adirondack chairs set around a firepit beneath a giant oak tree. If it’s hard to believe the best is yet to come, that claim will be proven the following day on arrival at

Nepenthe. It might be the most life-affirming and joyous restaurant in the loveliest location imaginable—atop a cliff in legendary Big Sur, a two-hour drive from Paso Robles. Founded in 1947, Nepenthe is still a family affair. The latest generations have formed a close relationship with the Lucia and Pisoni vineyards just over the ridge in the Santa Lucia Highlands, which also receive visitors by appointment. “I love heading to Big Sur for a hike through the redwoods and then up the hillside for gorgeous views of the California coastline,” says Mark Pisoni, who calls Nepenthe “one of my favorite spots in the world.” The restaurant has responded by designating Lucia its house wine. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 71


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Take your pick! Photo by Klara Kulikova Opposite: The Santa Ynez Inn is a perfect place to rest your head and fill your belly on your coastal California road trip. Photo courtesy of Santa Ynez Inn

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epenthe is a place to go for a very long lunch—it’s hard to beat the combination of their signature ambrosia burger with a glass of pinot noir on a deck for which it’s worth waiting on seats. Watch the blue jays ducking and diving among the pines—and maybe stay for a roast chicken dinner cozied up around the indoor fireplace. You never want to leave this place of dreams, and it’s just a shame it doesn’t have guest rooms. Lodging options nearby include legendary Big Sur resorts Ventana and Post Ranch Inn, while Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn, a relic of the area’s hippie days, offers rooms at less eye-watering prices and a touch of authentic 1960s funk. Whether you stay overnight or continue, you must make a final stop on the magnificent Monterey Peninsula just forty-five minutes north of Big Sur. Designated drivers should get going in time to see the iconic Bixby Bridge—beneath which otters frolic—by daylight before making the crossing. Monterey is a working town with a world-class aquarium on Cannery Row, awash in plenty of John Steinbeck-era atmosphere. Restaurants 72 | A P R IL 2 02 2

with decks overlooking the bay abound, but for more refined cuisine, diners head three miles south to the impossibly pretty seaside town of Carmel. Long established as a resort town, Carmel-by-the-Sea’s oldest hotel, where we stayed, was built in 1899. Pine Inn might seem a tad old-fashioned, but we enjoyed the formal Victorian lounge, the luxury of a walk-in closet, and the glimpse of the ocean most lodgings in town don’t offer. There’s no better way to start a Carmel morning than wandering down to the broad silver-sand beach overlooked by cypresses, then heading back up Ocean Avenue to grab coffee and cannoli from a local bakery to fuel some covetable window-shopping. A ritzy place to stay with some very fine wines is Bernardus Lodge & Spa in Carmel Valley, where many of the resort’s tasting rooms, including Bernardus’s own, are based. We enjoyed elegant dining on the terrace of their Lucia Restaurant, along with a tasting of the first cabernet sauvignon and traditional Bordeaux blends we had experienced on the Central Coast—the award-winning Marinus from Bernardus is a showstopper.


W

hile you can reach San Francisco International Airport in only two hours from the Monterey Peninsula and San Jose Airport in even less, consider a final tasting stop in Santa Cruz. The surfing capital is now known as much for its wines as the waves. Craft breweries and a long run of boardwalk-fringed beaches have made Santa Cruz a favorite among spring breakers. This is another place to sample good cab sav, chardonnay, and the rare malvasia white rarely seen outside eastern Europe—taste all these varietals at Birichino’s sidewalk tables. Santa Cruz is the northernmost of the six counties that make up Central Coast wine country (thanks to the talent of viticulturists, the region now spans virtually the whole West Coast territory between Los Angeles and San Francisco). It’s a journey truck drivers make in a single day by freeway, but for anyone who loves beautiful scenery, fine wine, and romantic restaurants, this California coast odyssey really demands a week to celebrate all the highlights of the culinary road trip of a lifetime.

Find more information and start planning your road trip at VisitCalifornia.com/experience/central-coast-wine-country, SeeMonterey.com, and SolvangUSA.com/wine-country/sideways.


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Savor City BY

ANTHEA

GERRIE

|

PHOTOGRAPHY

COURTESY

OF

the

A CULINARY TOUR

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of M A D R I D

REAL

MADRID


Opposite: Cityscape at Calle de Alcalá and Gran Vía in central Madrid Photo by Sean Pavon Right: Madrid is full of restaurants offering the best of traditional Spanish cuisine and more.

I t ’ s o n e o f t h e g r e at t r e as u r e h o u s e s o f E u ro p e , b u t P i c as so a n d t h e P r a do n ot w i t h sta n d i n g , M a d r i d i s a l so a wo n d e r f u l c i t y to e at i n .

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rom the moment they stand in line for their midmorning “second breakfast” (a plate of nutty ibérico ham or a rich hot chocolate with churros for dipping), Madrileños are busy planning what to eat for lunch, where to meet friends for post-siesta tapas, and at which street stall to end the night with their favorite fishy snack—squid sandwich, anyone? “This is a city with an unlimited appetite for food, wine, and socializing,” says Olaf Clayton, publisher of Madrid’s English-language newspaper, The Madrid Metropolitan. Meanwhile, actress Helen Mirren raves about her favorite fried egg ritual in the city—gathering with friends for huevos rotos. Etiquette determines who gets to break the yolks over huge platters of ham and potatoes, and then everyone dives in! Madrid has everything from simple but sustaining sharing plates like the aforementioned to avant-garde cuisine that rivals the gastronomic offerings of Spain’s second city Barcelona—try chef Quique Dacosta’s

Michelin-starred tasting menu at the Ritz for sheer ingenuity—but it takes stamina to sample the best. Clayton explains how he was forced to adapt his body clock to a new rhythm when he arrived in the city from London twenty years ago. “The idea of a second breakfast, a three-hour lunch, supper on the move in one tapas bar after another, and meeting friends at midnight for pre-clubbing drinks was hard to get my head around,” he admits. “With Thursday the big night out, my office supply of extra strength Alka-Seltzer made me very popular with colleagues on a Friday morning!” Madrileños still meet for dinner at eleven o’clock, but the pandemic has opened the city’s culinary delights up for visitors in a way unimaginable five years ago. “Now little bars that used to be crammed have outdoor terraces where you can sit at a table,” Clayton points out, “and to be more profitable, the owners have upped their game when it comes to the food they serve.” Since the 9:00 p.m. curfew of the COVID era saw eateries forced to open earlier, it’s now easier to get served at, say, 8:00 p.m., even if the locals are still at home changing out of work clothes and refreshing their mascara.

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The iconic Plaza Mayor lies in the heart of Madrid. Below: Chocolatería San Ginés is a popular spot for churros and chocolate.

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irst things first, and that means breaking the overnight fast with strong coffee before getting out to enjoy the spectacle of huge open spaces, like the magnificent Plaza Mayor, built in 1619, which can be appreciated to the max when they’re relatively deserted. Cafés open early to dispense a caffeine hit, with or without pastries, to workers who sign in at 9:00 a.m. Many of these same workers are back in the café again with colleagues for the midmorning second breakfast, which is the first team-building exercise of the day. A little plate of freshly sliced ham goes down well, perhaps with a slice of grilled bread made pungent with grated tomato and garlic. Meanwhile, for the sweet-toothed, it’s got to be chocolate and churros (think stick-shaped beignets that—unlike their counterparts in New Orleans’ French Market—are left mercifully unsweetened as they’re lifted fresh from their deep bath of oil). Visitors queue from morning till night at the Chocolatería San Ginés, perched between the Plaza Mayor and the Calle Arenal near the white wedding cake-like royal palace. It’s picturesque and dates back to 1894, but many locals prefer their chocolate in less famous institutions. Don’t be surprised to be asked, “One cup or two?” when ordering for a couple. One is the answer, as the chocolate is too thick to be drinkable, and you’ll never get to the bottom dipping even a dozen churros. How you can eat lunch after a second breakfast is answered by the fact that Madrileños don’t even attempt it till between two and four o’clock. And what they eat is determined by whether or not they go home. A culture of sharing the day’s main meal with workmates is fostered by lunch vouchers handed out by employers

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The city streets offer a cozy backdrop to a tasty meal. Photo by Catarina Belova Below: The Mercado San Miguel is a famous indoor marketplace known for traditional gourmet cuisines.

to exchange at local restaurants. But dishes like cocido, the beloved local stew of chicken, chorizo, pork belly, and chickpeas, require such long cooking times they are rarely seen outside the home. We at least got to sample the incredibly rich broth in the unlikely setting of the Mandarin Oriental Ritz—one of the world’s three original belle epoque Ritz palace hotels—whose Palm Court restaurant produced a taster cup at lunch. This was at 2:00 p.m. when they had just finished slicing endless plates of jamón ibérico—the finest ham from a special breed of acorn-eating pigs—for the second breakfasts even high society types go out for, here served in grand style on white tablecloths alongside bread in silver baskets. Penélope Cruz is a big fan of this high-end jamón. It’s seen everywhere in town but is best bought from a specialist like those at Las Viandas de Julián, where they slice it fresh—look for a black or red label over the hoof indicating the best quality—and it can be vacuumpacked for visitors at the Mercado de la Paz in the swanky Salamanca neighborhood. We also bought wonderful Spanish cheeses at the tienda de quesos beside the market entrance—smoky, breast-shaped San Simón da Costa and nutty Mahón. As beloved for an entree as jamón is for starters, cochinillo is suckling pig roasted in the ancient wood-fired ovens of many of the city’s historic restaurants. We enjoyed ours, succulent on the inside and super-crispy crackling on the outside, at Botín, which at three years short of its three-hundredth anniversary, is the oldest restaurant in the world, let alone Madrid. Given the vaulted wine cellar makes a particularly picturesque dining room, it’s no surprise that it’s sought after by everyone from visiting celebrities to discerning tour groups to locals looking for the quintessential place to dine with their out-of-town cousins. Reservations are essential, which is good news for early birds—it’s one of the few restaurants in town where you can eat as early as 8:00 p.m. and still have company.

A culture of sharing the day’s main meal with workmates is fostered by lunch vouchers handed out by employers to exchange at local restaurants. Wandering up from Botín to the Plaza Mayor—a thrill by night, when crowds congregate to wander across its vast expanse—we were stopped in our tracks by the Mercado San Miguel, one of the world’s most enticing food halls. Here, and in the narrow streets leading down and away from the plaza, of which Cava Baja is the most unmissable, locals come in the evenings to tapiar—the verb for taking tapas at one place after another. Unlike the three-course sit-down lunch with family or colleagues, this makes the last meal of the day a moveable feast to enjoy with a group of friends. Someone will argue for a first stop where they have just discovered the best croquetas—delicious freshly fried croquettes—while the next votes to continue the party at a bar known for the most melt-in-your-mouth tortillas. This large potato omelet served in slices also reflects the changing taste of Madrileños in recent years; once served bone-dry, they are now more often left slightly runny. The Casa Dani food counter in the Mercado de la Paz is a great place to sample new-style tortillas, but you’ll need a table rather than a counter to dig into those huevos rotos—“broken” eggs—Mirren enjoys; it’s an honor to be invited to break the yolks over the potatoes! V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 77


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You could spend a whole evening going up and down Calle Ponzano and not even manage to put your head into every bar.

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o matter where food is eaten, Madrileños’ beverage of choice is vermouth on tap. The herby aperitif, which gained ground in the days before the wines made immediately around the city came to be as good as they are today, is served in a hearty measure known as a caña, the term by which Spaniards also order a small beer. A great place to sample good local vintages and wines from all over Spain is Lavinia, above the city’s most comprehensive wine shop, where guests can bring a bottle to their table with no corkage charges. Look for this establishment between the Chanel and Hermès stores, as Salamanca is home to all the international design boutiques. If shopping for or imbibing vermouth, Lustau is a quality label, but be prepared for more rustic choices served straight from the barrel in city center bars.

Above: Restaurant Botín is believed to be the oldest restaurant in the world—almost three hundred years! Right: The facade of Restaurant Botín 78 | A P R IL 2 02 2

If Madrid’s gourmet delights are not apparent to the casual visitor, blame the geography. The city is fairly compact, but there’s not much foodie action in its central square, the half-moon-shaped Puerta del Sol, apart from La Mallorquina bakery, where Madrileños queue for pastries at the weekend, or even around the Plaza Mayor, though this is where bocadillo de calamares— that infamous squid sandwich—was dreamed up at El

Brillante. To find truly local hangouts, exit the plaza with Mercado San Miguel on your right and head downhill into La Latina, one of the most vibrant neighborhoods. It’s one to visit on Sunday, especially, when everyone descends on the El Rastro flea market and follows up with aperitivos served with free snacks. But note the action has also moved outside the city center to residential areas like Chamberí, which now rival La Latina for nightlife. “You could spend a whole evening going up and down Calle Ponzano and not even manage to put your head into every bar,” says Clayton, who considers this street his own local foodie stomping ground. You could follow his example and bring a supply of Alka-Seltzer to Madrid, but this city even has its own cure for the morning after the night before. Head to Lhardy, an exquisite fin de siècle bar-meets-grocery store near the Puerta del Sol, and ask for a portion of hot consommé dispensed from the ancient samovar in the window. It’s Madrid’s answer to the “Jewish penicillin” the rest of the world calls chicken soup!

Anthea Gerrie is based in the UK but travels the world in search of stories. Her special interests are architecture and design, culture, food, and drink, as well as the best places to visit in the world’s great playgrounds. She is a regular contributor to the Daily Mail, the Independent, and Blueprint.


Petite pause

The Cakes made in Jasmine Rae’s signature “torn paper effect” feature handmade sugar flowers and leaves blooming from each confection. The fondant layers are rolled paper-thin and applied in relieving layers that soften the tiers’ edges. Jasmine shares, “All of the techniques I use have developed in response to the dry environment of my kitchen space. The thinly rolled fondant sets up faster, allowing me to create deeply relieved forms off the side of the cake, such as the ‘torn paper effect’ depicted here. The techniques I have invented are based on celebrating the natural process. For instance, when I relate to my materials and how they are reacting in the environment, I can select the parts I like and use them to compose my cursory vision into something I could have never designed on paper.”

Art

Visit JasmineRaeCakes.com to purchase a cake or learn more. Photo courtesy of Jasmine Rae Cakes

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P r i v at e r e s id e nc e i n A l y s B eac h , Flor id a , feat u r i n g L o e we n w i n d o w s a n d c u s t o m a r c h i t e c t u r a l m i l l w o r k b y E . F. S a n J u a n A r c h i t e c t : M c A l p i n e Ta n k e r s l e y A r c h i t e c t u r e | B u i l d e r : A l y s B e a c h C o n s t r u c t i o n | P h o t o : J a c k G a r d n e r


The PR I DE of a M A ST ER CR A F T SM A N

EFSANJUAN.COM


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The

EXPLORING

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WINE

COUNTRY

ANCIENT GRAPE BY

XENIA TALIOTIS

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Nothing more excellent nor more valuable than

"

WINE was ever granted to mankind by God,

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wrote the Greek philosopher Plato some 2,400 years ago. Many would agree he was right to eulogize about the wines of Ancient Greece, as they were unsurpassed. Greece is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, with a vinification tradition that goes back five thousand years. For several millennia, its wines and the skills of its vine growers were the envy of the ancient world, even of regions that would one day overtake it—the countries that we now know as France and Italy.

This page and opposite: Thanks to an infusion of energy from young winemakers and a renewed interest in high-quality, smallbatch varietals, Greek wine is on the rise worldwide. Properties such as the Nobu Hotel Santorini have designed their dining programs to feature many of these unique wines and have certified sommeliers on staff to educate guests. Photos courtesy of Nobu Hotel Santorini

Wine expert Caitlin Miller, associate editor of New York-based drinks magazine SevenFifty, says that although Greek wines enjoyed a sustained period of glory, their reputation did eventually and inevitably wane. “Greece endured wars, revolutions, invasions, and a devastating infestation of phylloxera—a louse that destroys the roots of the vines—all of which had a hugely deleterious impact on its wine production. By the twentieth century, many estate owners decided to forfeit quality for volume. There was a surge in cheap, poorly made wines, which were seemingly exported to every Greek taverna throughout the world; sadly, these came to represent Greece for many years.” Antonios Stratakos, another Greek wine aficionado and certified sommelier at the former OMMA Santorini resort (now Nobu Hotel Santorini), adds, “Mass-produced, pine-infused Retsina did our wine industry a terrible disservice, but over the past thirty years or so we have seen enormous progress. This is down to several factors, including a new breed V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 83


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A sprawling vineyard in the town of Kalambaka, Greece

We have returned to our

ROOTS

,

to doing what we do best,

"

and this is bringing its own rewards.

of more discerning visitors to Greece who have created a growing demand for authentic artisanal produce, the emergence of younger winemakers who have taken on old estates and are putting their all into resurrecting ancient varietals, and generous subsidies from the EU.”

Above: Chefs at the OMMA Santorini resort (now Nobu Hotel Santorini) carefully plan the menu to incorporate perfect pairings of delicious Greek wine and authentic fare. Photo courtesy of Nobu Hotel Santorini 84 | A P R IL 2 02 2

Yannis Valambous, a former banker who opened Vassaltis Vineyards on the island of Santorini in 2016, is one of those who reversed the fortunes of an ailing family vineyard. Vassaltis now makes red, white, and sparkling wine, with 25 percent of the yield being exported to countries such as the US, Canada, Spain, Switzerland, and France. “Greek wines regained their reputation for excellence when wine producers went back to low-yield premium production,” says Valambous. “I think we all realized we had to highlight the characteristics of our ancient, native varietals and to celebrate our heritage and point of difference. The tide really did turn. First, our ambassador varieties—Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Moschofilero, and Agiorgitiko—gained the recognition

"

they deserved throughout the world, and now, lesserknown grape varieties are attracting attention. Wine enthusiasts are intrigued by our methods and traditions, as well as by our vintages. Here in Santorini, for example, we basket-train vines, which means we grow them in a circular formation close to the earth. The grapes grow within the koulouri, or wreath, which protects them from the wind. We have returned to our roots, to doing what we do best, and this is bringing its own rewards.” Panos Manuelides, the founder of Odysea, a Greek food company that has won multiple awards for its range of authentic products sourced mainly from local and family-run enterprises, has never experienced such high demand for Greek wine. “This is such a dynamic time for the sector,” he says. “The younger vignerons who have taken over old estates are experimenting and are creating exciting results.


Left and below left: Photos courtesy of Nobu Hotel Santorini Below right: Photo courtesy of Vassaltis Vineyards

For example, the Vidiano grape from Crete is now being cultivated commercially in other regions, and many boutique wineries are producing organic and biodynamic wines.” Miller has also witnessed this trend. “Greece is certainly becoming known for its up-and-coming natural wine producers such as Domaine de Kalathas and Paleokerisio,” she shares. “The latter makes an interesting semi-sparkling orange wine—a type of white wine made with grape-skin contact—that has become very popular over recent years.” Where should those who know little about Greek wine start? “Greek wines are unique, but some do share common notes with more well-known varieties,” says Stratakos. “People who seek familiarity in their wine and who like a white Burgundy or aged Riesling should try a Santorini Assyrtiko, while those who like the taste profile of Nebbiolo should go for a Xinomavro from Naousa, on the island of Paros.” More adventurous wine lovers keen to experiment beyond the well-known varieties might enjoy emerging reds such as the luscious, herby Limniona or the rich Mavrotragano, and whites such as Malagousia, which is intense and aromatic, or the citrusy Monemvassia. Many of these wines are produced in small volumes, which means they are unlikely to turn up in local supermarkets, but it’s safe to bet that those who put in the effort to track them down will be very glad they did.

VISIT ODYSEA.COM TO LEARN MORE ABOUT GREEK WINE AND SANTORINI.NOBUHOTELS.COM TO PLAN YOUR STAY. Xenia Taliotis is a UK-based editor and writer who covers lifestyle, travel, well-being, property, and finance for several publications, including The Telegraph, Christie’s International Real Estate, Women’s Health, and VIE. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 85


Voyager

Aquatic BY EMME MARTIN

N

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LORI SACZYNSKI

ature has always served as the best inspiration for art. Whales, in particular, have been creative and literary muses for centuries thanks to their vast size and elusiveness to shore dwellers. Northwest Florida–based artist Andy Saczynski belongs to the ambitious category of artists who have pursued a life-size replication of the mysterious creatures. Saczynski was determined to make this vision a reality, and what better place to do it than the artfully aquatic community of South Walton, Florida? As Saczynski is an awarded artist in the area and his work has graced the walls of Chef Jim Shirley’s restaurants for years, it didn’t take much convincing for Jim Shirley Enterprises (proprietor of Great Southern Café, The Bay, North Beach Social, Farm & Fire, and The Meltdown on 30A) to get on board with the project in early 2021. Shirley and his team feel deeply about creating more public art destinations in Walton County for visitors and locals to enjoy, and this was a perfect opportunity to start that initiative at North Beach Social on the shore of the Choctawhatchee Bay. 86 | A P R IL 2 02 2


Chef Jim Shirley and artist Andy Saczynski with Saczynski’s new whale mural at North Beach Social in South Walton, Florida

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Voyager

“Saczynski hopes the sentiment brings awareness to the Whales' preservation and pays homage to the magnificent creatures that call the Gulf home."

N

ot only was Shirley on his side, but so was fate when Saczynski came across an article about Rice’s whale. The endangered whale species is in dire need of preservation, with likely fewer than one hundred individuals remaining. Saczynski learned that the unique whale is consistently found at the continental shelf break in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico, usually at depths of one hundred to four hundred meters. The artist decided that his project would honor Rice’s whale through a loose interpretation of the species. He hopes the sentiment brings awareness to their preservation and pays homage to the magnificent creatures that call the Gulf home. With the basis for the project in place, Saczynski and Shirley decided that North Beach Social would be the best canvas for the extensive feat. The two-story structure 88 | A P R IL 2 02 2

offers a large wall overlooking the bay that allows the whale to serve as the perfect backdrop for musical and fun-filled afternoons and evenings at the restaurant’s outdoor seating area. Meanwhile, guests upstairs at Farm & Fire restaurant might catch a glimpse on their way in or out if they head across the back patio! On February 8, 2022, after about a year of planning and with the execution process already underway, Saczynski delivered pre-cut pieces of wood to the site, where he began to outline the shape of the whale. He pieced together the installation throughout the week, starting with the tail and head. The installation process made quite a spectacle for restaurant-goers, but according to Saczynski, they didn’t seem to mind—some even came to watch. Next, he continued the installation process, which involved completing the structure of the whale’s body, adding more layers of wood, and painting it in his signature abstract style.


A

fter five days and a lot of hard work, the result was a massive array of bright turquoise details, swirly fish in the whale’s belly, and guitars on the tail that pay tribute to the days and nights full of live music at North Beach Social. The project was not for the weak, as Saczynski estimates he used and carried over eight hundred pounds of wood for the life-size mural. Nor was it frivolous, as it was essential to the artist to keep waste at a minimum, a feat in which he succeeded. It is easy to marvel at Saczynski’s ability to execute such a large project. However, the vision and purpose behind it are even more significant. Saczynski’s concept embodies some of the best parts of the local community—an appreciation for the arts, dedication to preservation, and a desire to make life more beautiful. He and Chef Shirley hope the installation will bring viewers a sense of joy that will spread through South Walton and beyond, and we have a good feeling it already has.

To see more of Andy Saczynski’s art, head to AndySaczynski.com. For more information on North Beach Social and Farm & Fire, visit Chef JimShirley.com.

Opposite: Saczynski planned the wood and mixed-media sculptural mural, loosely based on the Rice’s whale species found in the Gulf of Mexico, for over a year before installing the piece at North Beach Social in February 2022. Photo by Nathan Saczynski


Photo by Brandan Babineaux


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PLAYFUL PASSION

Kiss the cook! This month’s C’est la VIE collection inspires us to revamp our kitchens and bookshelves with colorful new appliances and tomes filled to the brim with recipes, wonder, and travel. Venture out of your comfort zone and add new vibrance to your life. From high-end caviar to a stylish kitchen playset for the kids, the excitement evoked in these products is essential to maintaining a sense of beauty and whimsy in life. To love is to live, and to live is to explore. So, it’s time to explore for the love of food!

1

Here’s the Tea

SAMA Lavender Rose Chamomile Tea $10 – SamaTea.com 92 | A P R IL 2 02 2


2

Rich Harvest

Premium Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil $40 – Oracle-Oil.com

Ostentatious Occasion 3

Mood Flatware Egg in 24-Carat Gold, Set of 24 $17,073 – Amara.com

Everyday Getaway

4

Beautiful 5 Beginnings

Gray Malin x Cloth & Company Cami Dining Chair $295 – GrayMalin.com

MoMA Design Store Avocado Vase $65 – MoMA.org

6

Culinary Couture

Judith Leiber Taco Clutch $4,295 – JudithLeiber.com

Tuscan Treat

7

Sass Queen

8

A House Party in Tuscany by Amber Guinness $50 – ThamesAndHudson.com

BKR Glass Water Bottle with Spikes $58 – Amara.com V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 93


C’est la vie

Brilliant Brew

9

Couplet Coffee – The Blissful Blend, 12-ounce Bag $18 – CoupletCoffee.com

94 | A P R IL 2 02 2


10

French Sensation

How to French Country by Sara Silm $40 - ThamesAndHudson.com

Serving Up Greatness

11

Versace Medusa Serving Plate $330 – Amara.com

The Real Deal

12

Modern Chef Large Wooden Kitchen Playset $499 – CrateAndBarrel.com

13

Stainless Ambience

Kate Modern Stainless Steel Rose Gold Coffee Table $1,349 – Chairish.com

14

Core of Luxe

Pointy Snout Caviar – Ossetra Reserve $400 – PointySnout.com

Smooth Blues

15

KitchenAid Cordless Seven-Speed Hand Mixer $100 – KitchenAid.com V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 95


SHINE On

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L’intermission

Evolution of Tradition For more details, visit RestaurantBarr.com. Photo by Daniel Rasmussen

The world of culinary arts would be boring if not for pioneers that seek creative and new possibilities. Located in Copenhagen, Denmark, Restaurant Barr explores the classic food and drinking habits found near the North and Baltic Seas. This expansive area stretches from Ireland and the United Kingdom to Benelux, Germany, Poland, the Baltic countries, and Scandinavia. With respect for the traditions of old and a creative spirit, Restaurant Barr presents guests with the finest renditions of North Sea cuisine.

Love, VIE xo V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 97


Keeping It Simple & Spectacular!

AN INTERIOR DESIGN STUDIO COMING SOON!

KIS-DESIGNS.COM • 850.608.5800


La vitalité

Matcha is a Japanese powder made from dried and finely ground green tea leaves. Photo by Foxys Forest Manufacture/Shutterstock

La vitalité A ZEST FOR LIFE

Traditionally consumed in East Asia, matcha has skyrocketed to popularity in Western culture thanks to its numerous health benefits. Matcha is made by grinding young tea leaves into a bright green powder and then whisking the powder into hot water. Its benefits are impressive, providing natural antioxidants, increased brain function, weight loss, and possible protection against disease. The prospect of improving your health doesn’t have to be daunting; try switching out your morning cappuccino for a homemade cup of matcha tea with your preferred milk. You’ll gain a new skill, and who knows, you might feel inspired to incorporate more superfoods into your diet!

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La vitalité

The

Future of Health

E a t fo r Yo u r B o d y w i t h ZO E Interview by EMME MARTIN | Photography courtesy of ZOE

T

he secret to living well often starts with what’s on our plate, and as more research emerges, it becomes more evident that the ideal diet can look different for everyone. This approach makes a lot of sense, considering how biologically unique each human is. Unfortunately, many dieting solutions focus on quick fixes with sweeping claims guaranteed to help anyone with enough “discipline.” But, of course, we all know or have heard about how these usually turn out—often not with the results people have hoped to achieve. Enter the more nuanced health programs, such as ZOE, that offer a more promising solution for creating and maintaining a balanced diet. The integrated program provides personalized testing and results based on the world’s most extensive nutrition science study, giving users a more detailed view of their health than ever before. Results from ZOE’s at-home gut, blood fat, and blood sugar test kits are combined to create a personalized guide to eating for your body.

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“The insight from the glucose tracker has taught me so much about how certain sugars can cause my glucose levels to spike and inevitably drop, leading to that mid-day drowsiness,” says Emme Martin, VIE’s assistant editor. “Also, after seeing the real-time effects foods have on my body, I have never been more inspired to eat foods that nourish me rather than bring me down.” Martin started the ZOE process a few weeks prior to this interview and has enjoyed learning about the importance of gut health and food choices on ZOE’s mobile app while awaiting her results from her testing kit. Emme interviewed ZOE registered dietitian and founder of Spice Spice Baby blog and cookbook, Kanchan Koya, PhD, to learn about creating recipes around the right kind of foods and spices. Koya brings her wealth of knowledge in health coaching and integrative nutrition to the ZOE team to help develop recipes based on users’ personalized results. Koya shared her process for meal planning and prepping, adding flavor to any dish, and why eating well doesn’t require discipline: yes, you heard it here first.


Results from ZOE's at-home gut, blood fat, and blood sugar test kits are combined to create a personalized guide to eating for your body.

ZOE is a nutritional study and personalized diet program that allows users to analyze their gut, blood fat, and blood sugar to determine the best foods for their unique microbiome. Opposite: The ZOE program starts with an at-home test kit delivered to your door. V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 101


La vitalité

VIE: What does “conventional medicine” mean to you?

Kanchan Koya: Conventional medicine has an important place in our society, but its emphasis is primarily on treating people once they’re already sick. I believe it’s as important—if not more important—to focus on diet and lifestyle to reduce the risk of disease to begin with.

VIE: What inspired your passion for cooking? Was it always wellness-focused?

Koya: I am a foodie at heart, so cooking was a very natural interest of mine. I didn’t, however, enjoy the best of health as a child. I had severe gut issues that impacted my overall health and vitality. When I finished my PhD in biomedicine at Harvard Medical School, where I studied DNA repair and the power of plant-based ingredients like curcumin in turmeric to prevent cancer, I became focused on leveraging the power of functional foods for disease prevention and health in my own cooking.

VIE: How did you become affiliated with ZOE? Koya: There is a ton of nutritional noise out there, often based on poor or no science. ZOE’s emphasis on research and evidence really attracted me. I also love that they focus on the bio-individuality of our reactions to foods so we can tailor our optimal nutrition plan to our unique blood sugar and microbiome-derived responses. To be involved with such a cutting-edge company is truly very exciting!

VIE: What is your process for creating recipes based on the ZOE program? Koya: The lists of foods that are best for you from the ZOE program can be a powerful guiding tool when designing or tweaking recipes. If I’m making something I love that has an ingredient in it that I don’t respond well to (say, white rice), I can simply swap

that ingredient for something like quinoa that my ZOE testing has shown I have a better response to. In this way, I can optimize my food intake to suit my unique biology while still enjoying my favorite foods.

VIE: Does meal prepping look the same for everyone? What’s your advice for finding a rhythm with a busy lifestyle? Koya: Just like there is no one-size-fits-all solution to nutrition, there is no single best approach to meal prepping. For some people, meal prepping can simply mean having a meal plan and groceries on hand. For others, it can mean making the entire dish in advance and having it ready to reheat and enjoy. And for many, it can involve making a few basics (wild rice, sautéed greens, tofu, a batch of beans) and then mixing and matching to create different combinations that keep things fun and exciting throughout the week.

VIE: What is more important to you when planning a recipe—flavor or nutrients? Is it possible to have it all? Koya: I absolutely believe you can have flavor and nutrition in a single meal! The biggest myth I encounter is that healthy food must be lackluster or boring. This couldn’t be further from the truth. I focus on nutrient-dense foods and then use herbs, spices, and cooking techniques to make them taste delicious.

VIE: How can certain foods and spices optimize one’s health?

Tools like ZOE will help us learn about our unique biology and our microbial ecosystem and eat in a way that best supports that.

102 | A P R IL 2 02 2

Koya: Foods from nature—vegetables, fruits, legumes, whole grains, nuts, seeds, herbs, and spices—contain powerful molecules also known as phytonutrients that can have beneficial effects on our bodies, not to mention fiber that nourishes our gut microbiome. The list is endless, but some of my favorite examples are cinnamaldehyde in cinnamon that can improve insulin function and balance blood sugar, curcumin in turmeric that regulates inflammation, anthocyanins in blueberries that enhance brain and heart health, and beta-glucan in oatmeal that improves the composition of our gut microbiome.


VIE: The ZOE program encourages trying different foods to help keep a diverse microbiome; how do you recommend branching out from a routine diet? Koya: Challenge yourself to buy one or two new plant-based foods when you shop for groceries each week. This could be as simple as adding a new food you don’t often eat, like artichokes, fennel, pumpkin seeds, flax, pomegranate, or saffron. Make it exciting and adventurous. Have fun using the new ingredients in your meals and keep building from there. The goal is to add diversity slowly and consistently and enjoy your food along the way.

VIE: Can you give us some examples of easy ways to spice up a bland dish? Koya: Adding cinnamon and cardamom to oatmeal, ground ginger to banana bread, turmeric to roasted cauliflower, paprika on potatoes, cumin with beets, or saffron with quinoa are some simple yet delicious ideas for spicing up everyday foods.

VIE: With the emergence of cutting-edge programs such as ZOE, do you have hope for a more informed society on personalized eating habits? Koya: Absolutely! While everyone seems to be looking for a single magic-bullet solution to health and longevity, the research is painting a more nuanced picture. Not even

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identical twins respond to the same food in the same way! Tools like ZOE will help us learn about our unique biology and our microbial ecosystem and eat in a way that best supports that. When we fall in love with taking care of ourselves—eating in a way that supports us, moving our bodies from a place of joy, connecting with others to reduce stress— we no longer need “discipline” to stay healthy! Fall in love with the health-enhancing practices that serve you, and being healthy and disease-free becomes effortless, joyful, and delicious!

Stay tuned for Emme Martin’s full review on her ZOE experience in a future VIE story! To learn more about ZOE or sign up, visit JoinZOE.com or follow @zoe on Instagram. You can follow Kanchan Koya @chiefspicemama or visit her website at SpiceSpiceBaby.com to learn more.

Opposite: In addition to the test kit to help users determine their unique nutritional needs, ZOE provides ongoing support via its app, meal-planning program, and website resources backed by the world’s largest in-depth nutrition study.


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Petite pause

What’s

St~Germain serves the tea with its floral take on a margarita. Fresh, handpicked elderflowers that comprise St~Germain liqueur elegantly pair with Patrón Weber Blue Agave Tequila in “What’s the Tea, Rosarita,” a blossoming cocktail with hints of hibiscus tea, beet juice, and fresh lime. What’s The Tea, Rosarita × 1 oz. Patrón Silver × 1 oz. St~Germain × .75 oz. hibiscus tea × .75 oz. beet juice × .5 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add all ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled coupe glass and top with salted rose air (optional).

the

Salted Rose Air × 4 oz. water × 2 oz. fresh lime juice × 1.5 teaspoons Sucro × 1.5 teaspoons Maldon salt × .5 oz. rosewater Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Using an immersion blender or hand blender, mix until bubbles form. Carefully spoon on top of the drink. Photo courtesy of Patrón and St~Germain

Tea?

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 105


(SCAN WITH PHONE)

MODUS LIMITED EDITION

SCAN TO RECIEVE YOUR INVITATION TO PRIVATELY VIEW THE NEW MODUS FINE ART COLLECTION


Spill the Beans by Lani Kingston ©2022 gestalten Photo courtesy of gestalten

BOOK CLUB THE READERS CORNER

Wake up and smell the coffee! Spill the Beans is a tasteful coffee-table book about that delicious life-giving liquid itself. This refined book takes you on the global java journey of the coffee bean and how it is prepared, served, and industrialized in Ethiopia, Guatemala, Vietnam, and many countries in between. Explore café culture and the bean’s influence on society in this tome that goes far deeper than the bottom of the mug.

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The Readers Corner

Excerpted from A House Party in Tuscany by Amber Guinness © Thames & Hudson Australia 2022 Text © Amber Guinness 2022 Reprinted by permission of Thames & Hudson Inc, www.ThamesandHudsonUSA.com 108 | A P R IL 2 02 2


M Y

P E N N E

“Alla Bettola” W I T H

T O M A T O

By A M B E R G U I N N E S S

|

&

V O D K A

P h o t o by R O B Y N L E A

Fro m A H ou s e Pa r t y i n Tu s c a ny

This dish is my imitation of the famous house dish of creamy tomato penne cooked with vodka that is served at Alla Vecchia Bettola, a fabulous restaurant in Florence, Italy. I devised this recipe in a fit of desperate craving—at a time when I was not in Florence and unable to go to the restaurant. What’s unusual and delicious about the Alla Vecchia Bettola dish is the use of “smooth” penne lisce, meaning that there aren’t any ridges for the sauce to cling to. For that reason, the final stage of cooking the penne happens in the sauce so that the pasta soaks up the tomato, chili, and vodka. For the pasta to be al dente, it’s vital that you only cook the penne in boiling water for two-thirds of the time recommended on the package before transferring it to the pan with the sauce for the last third of the cooking process. For instance, De Cecco penne will take eleven minutes to cook al dente; I would therefore cook the pasta in boiling water for seven to eight minutes and transfer the penne to the sauce for the last two to three minutes.

Preparation time: A couple of minutes to organize the ingredients

Cooking time: 1 hour SERVES 6

1/2 Tablespoon chili flakes

1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed

4 Tablespoon (60 ml) olive oil

1 bottle (24.5 ounces) (680–700 g) tomato passata (Italian puréed tomatoes)

Salt

1/2 cup (120 ml) vodka

7/8 cup (200 ml) light cream

1.1 lb (500 g) penne lisce (smooth) or penne rigate (ridged)

1/2 cup (60 g) Parmesan cheese, grated – plus extra, to serve

A handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped, to serve

I

n a large frying pan, gently heat the chili flakes and garlic in the oil for 3 to 5 minutes over medium heat. Allow the garlic to infuse, but do not let it brown. Add the bottle of passata to the chili and garlic, together with a generous pinch of salt. Half-fill the bottle with water, swish it around to pick up any remaining passata, and pour the tomatoey water into the pan. Cook for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally until the liquid has reduced by a third. Put a large pan of well-salted water on to boil. Pour the vodka into the reduced liquid, stir, and increase the heat to high. Allow to bubble for 5 minutes so that the alcohol evaporates, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the cream and switch to low heat while the pasta cooks. Once the pasta cooking water is at a lively boil, add the penne. After the pasta has been cooking for 8 minutes, use a slotted spoon to transfer the pasta from the water to the tomato sauce. Add a ladleful of the starchy pasta cooking water if the sauce looks like it needs help to fully coat the pasta. Turn up the heat and allow to bubble and cook for a further 3 minutes, then stir in the Parmesan. Remove the pasta from the heat and transfer it to a serving bowl. Top with a little chopped parsley and some freshly grated Parmesan. Serve immediately.

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 109


3 6 1 5 0 E M E R A L D C O A S T P K W Y, S T E 1 0 6 , D E S I T N , F L 3 2 5 4 1 ( 8 5 0 ) 9 74 - 9 1 4 6 | I N F O @ C O A S T L I N E K I T C H E N . C O M | C O A S T L I N E K I T C H E N . C O M


L’intermission

Celebrate Gathering

The Feast Tableware Collection is available for purchase through Food52. For more information, visit Food52.com. Photo courtesy of Food52

Serve your guests in style with this dinnerware collaboration from Chef Yotam Ottolenghi and Serax. We are eating up this Feast Tableware Collection that is available in an inviting spread of colors. It’s truly a feast for your eyes. Designed as an homage to the sunny Mediterranean and with the most cheerful gatherings in mind, this collection adds joy to every dish and makes for a spectacular table setting. Let’s dine!

Love, VIE xo V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 111


ON THE

WATERFRONT DINING WITH A VIEW Stor y courtesy of WA LT O N C O U N T Y T O U R I S M


W

hile the incredible variety of local cuisine options makes dining in Walton County a delectable experience, one distinct advantage is the stunning backdrop provided by all the diverse local waterways. Whether it’s for a date night, a casual family meal or drinks with friends, there are countless spots to celebrate with a breathtaking view.

Ready for Romance A table for two is better with a view. And when it comes to a romantic meal with that special someone, nothing beats a sunset on the water. At FOOW (Fish Out of Water) in WaterColor, you’ll find great views, along with a Southern twist on several made-from-scratch dishes. From oysters and the Gulf fish sandwich to the grouper and swordfish, Chef Matt Moore serves inspired dishes in a casual, beautiful space overlooking the Gulf of Mexico. Not to mention, FOOW has one of the best happy hours in South Walton, complete with live entertainment – perfect for date night. At Vue on 30a, you’re set high up on a dune overlooking the pristine beach, with nothing between you and the glorious spectacle of a water-meets-sky horizon line. The breathtaking views help complement an upbeat ambiance in the dining room – perfect for special events. And a menu of updated classics – including plenty of fresh seafood – is always sure to please.

Casual Good Eats With a bait house, fishing charter and restaurant all under one roof, Stinky’s Fish Camp sure has a big-picture understanding of seafood. They serve up some of the freshest catch on the coast with a laid-back atmosphere. Be sure to check out their Sunday brunch and famous Oyster Log. It’s a true work of art. They’re just steps from the

Gulf, and plenty of outdoor seating along scenic Allen Lake also provides a different type of view. For yet another alternative waterfront, stop by The Bay, aptly named for its location right on the banks of the beautiful Choctawhatchee Bay. Nestled in Santa Rosa Beach, they often have live music and a festive bonfire. With a wide-ranging menu that covers both an incredible lobster roll and Vietnamese-style chicken wings, every palate will be pleased here. Family-friendly, it’s a true winner for all ages. Also on the Bay is Nick’s Seafood, a long-standing favorite of locals. They’re well-known for an array of options such as blue crabs, oysters and shrimp. The no-frills ambiance is very relaxed, with a mix of tables and seats at the bar, as well as an outdoor patio space. It has the feel of a familiar neighborhood spot. And if you time it right, you just might behold the spectacle of their annual winter bonfire – most likely the largest you’ve ever encountered. If you’re in the mood for more of a resort-style environment without losing the relaxed vibe, bring the family over to Barefoot’s Beachside Bar & Grill at Hilton Sandestin Beach Golf Resort & Spa – open to the public daily. Pair a panoramic Gulf vista with some zesty fish tacos and a tropical drink. And if you’re ready for something a bit more upscale, just head downstairs for a dinner at Seagar’s, the area’s only AAA Four-Diamond steakhouse.

Elevated Evenings There’s nothing like a night on the town with friends, cocktails and a view. Fortunately, South Walton has plenty of great spots to grab a drink and a rooftop vista with your crew. Kick the celebration off ceremoniously, with Bud & Alley’s time-honored tradition of ringing the bell

“Whether it’s for a date night, a casual family meal or drinks with friends, there are countless spots to celebrate with a breathtaking view.”

to mark sunset. Right in the middle of the action in Seaside, this South Walton classic has tasty bites, a fun atmosphere and an iconic view of the beach. Meet some friends for a playful spin on your favorite refreshments (the fruitier, the better). Pescado overlooks the Gulf from a perfect perch in Rosemary Beach. The space is sleek and sophisticated while remaining casual. Their eclectic menu ranges from small plates and a raw bar to shareable large-format dishes. Over at The Pearl Hotel, you’ll find the Havana Beach Rooftop Lounge and its classic bar serving craft cocktails, beer and wine. This elegant oasis with vintage Cuban styling might transport you to another time and place. But there’s no time like the present to share a few contemporary, Gulf-to-table dishes.

Spreading the Flavor South Walton cuisine is in high demand, so sometimes the taste has to travel. Being masters of their craft, some of the top chefs – including those from Stinky’s, FOOW and Hilton Sandestin – are often showcased at events outside of the area, such as Emeril Lagasse Foundation’s Boudin, Bourbon & Beer in New Orleans. While you may not be able to take in the same South Walton views, you can at least be reminded of them while savoring some of your favorite meals. These daydream dishes will help tide you over until you can return and rest your eyes on the glorious local waterways.


I N AU G U R A L S O I R É E O N T H E BAY FO R C V H N On March 18 and 19, 2022, Children’s Volunteer Health Network hosted its first Soirée on the Bay at the stunning Dugas Estate in Santa Rosa Beach, Florida. With incredible views of the Choctawhatchee Bay, a live auction, a bocce tournament, a grand wine and spirits tasting, music by David Posso and headliner The Tip Tops, catering by Café Thirty-A, a great time was had by all. CVHN raised over $300,000 for its new mobile dental clinic, which will serve children in Okaloosa and Walton Counties in need of dental care. VIE was proud to be a media sponsor for the weekend alongside our 2022 show home developer, Bella Mare Real Estate Holdings. Congratulations to CVHN on a fabulous event, and cheers to many more for a great cause! Photography by Hunter Burgtorf

Lynn and Steve Dugas 114 | A P R IL 2 02 2


Jeff and Gay Landreth, Lisa Marie Burwell, and Tamara and Carl Tricoli

Madra McDonald and Chris Burch

Soirée on the Bay 2022 bocce champions Alex Curry and Jordan Staggs

Christine Joy, Len Knowlton, Duce May, Gerald and Lisa Burwell, Parker Hodges, and Gay Landreth

Len Knowlton, Duce May, Paige and Clay Keith

Lynn Dugas and Tucker Brooks

??

Blakney Barrett, Heather and Matt Schomburg, Tami and Les Owen, Nicole and Wayne Rogers

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 115


La scène

Lisa and Dennis Peters

Tracey and ?? Craig Thomas

Heritage Dunes and The Heritage – A VIE Legacy Show Home custom Veuve bottle painted by Bouj & Co.

Mary Maitland and David Hejl

Dale Trice and Kimberly Watson Sewell

??

The Tip Tops rock the house

116 | A P R IL 2 02 2


Addie Strickland, Tracey Thomas, Jordan Staggs, Sally Neal, Chris Hellums, and Emme Martin

Erin Oden and Rita Montgomery

The Tip Tops

Jane Bahr and Lisa Peters

Linda Miller and John Sisty

Candy McMillian and friend

Dani Heidle, Kevin Kohler, and David Kessler

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 117


La scène

118 | A P R IL 2 02 2


The Owen Group: Avery Richardson, Tami Owen, Brelan Owen, Patricia Rorschach, Roy Anne Beckham, Blakney Barrett, and Marianne Newall The Owen Group WaterColor office

Tami Owen

T H E OW E N G RO U P RIBBON CUTTING The Owen Group, a full-service interior design studio with locations in Houston, Austin, and Denver, recently expanded to the beautiful coastal town of WaterColor on Scenic Highway 30A in Northwest Florida. On February 18, The Owen Group was excited to have an official ribbon-cutting celebration in WaterColor hosted by the Walton Area Chamber of Commerce, followed by a reception at The Wine Bar. We are looking forward to this talented group of women led by mother-daughter duo Tami and Brelan Owen bringing their style to Walton County and beyond. Welcome to the neighborhood! Photography by Hunter Burgtorf

?? Food by The Wine Bar

Avery Richardson and Marianne Newall

Metamorph Blooms

The Wine Bar reception

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 119


UNwineD returned to Panama City Beach, Florida, on March 18 and 19, 2022. 120 | A P R IL 2 02 2


La scène

UNWINED 2022 What better way to celebrate wine, craft beer, and spirits than to attend the much anticipated two-day event, UNwineD? The festival returned to Panama City Beach, Florida, on March 18 and 19 at Aaron Bessant Park to much delight from attendees. The main event featured booths of craft beer, wine, and spirits from around the world, delectable creations from leading chefs in the Southeast, goods from local shops and boutiques, and the Southern Living tent stocked with home decor, cookbooks, and more. Anderson East and Ruston Kelly performed during the Grand Afternoon Tasting this year. Cheers, y’all! Photography courtesy of Visit Panama City Beach ??

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 121


You are invited to my studio for an unrivaled experience of pampering and undivided attention! Enjoy a boutique salon atmosphere of restoration, healing, and wellness. Working in a prestigious hair salon in NYC by way of Chicago and Atlanta has honed my craft in the beauty business for the past 19 years, and my goal is to create a space that is calm, tranquil, and unhurried. I want you to be celebrated, loved, and beautified. Exclusive hair concierge services, independent business consulting, and the introduction of my meticulously curated JA Essence Beauty Collection of bath salts and potions for beauty and home await. As a creative artist, my canvas is you, and I would be honored to work with you! xo,

Jennifer

DEFINE YOUR ESSENCE JENNIFER@JASTUDIOSNYC.COM | (646) 359-9849 52 W GEORGIE ST. SANTA ROSA BEACH, FLORIDA 32459


The Last Word

Solution on next page

IN THE KITCHEN BY MYLES MELLOR

ACROSS

DOWN

1 7 9 11 13 15 17 18 20 24 25 27 29 31 32 35 36

1

Stuffed chicken dish (2 words) Increase Bagel topper Steep an aromatic ingredient in hot liquid Cooks, in a way Supporting Found a seat Fried egg-battered bread (2 words) Type of pepper Acidity factor Formally give up Kitchen gadgets Semi-firm Italian cheese Takes the rind off _____ Tatin Popular brandy flavor Extracted the essence from something by heating or boiling it

2 3 4 5 6 8 10 12 14 16 19 21 22 23 26 28 30 33 34

Shredded or finely cut vegetables and herbs, usually a garnish for soup Invigorate Approves Popular beer initials California town name starter Additional amount Ice cream flavor Part of a turkey recipe, perhaps Swe. neighbor State where fiddlehead ferns are popular, abbr. Pizza ___ Bordeaux wine Bandage name Spots Rice with cheese dish Salad ingredient Hard, dry Italian sausage Bermuda for one Complete Sauce that originated in the UK

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 123


The Last Word Puzzle on previous page

If you don’t follow your dream, who will? —Emeril Lagasse



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V IEM A G A ZINE .C O M / S U B S CR IBE-V IE


Au revoir!

An outlandish pink hollyhock adorns a medieval street corner in Salies-deBéarn, France, with just a crack in the pavement as its foothold. How to French Country is now available for purchase.

Au revoir! BEFORE YOU GO . . .

Photo by Sara Silm

The eloquent streets of Southwest France blossom with character and natural beauty. Interior designer and journalist Sara Silm distills the unique colors, textures, and flavors of this uncommon corner of the world in her book How to French Country, Country, published by Thames & Hudson. Wherever you are, envelop yourself in French culture with this colorful how-to guide. From weather-beaten shutters to the spring blossoms that perfume the streets, the region’s charm is clearly depicted on this tour traced with philosophical lines that will take you on the adventure of a lifetime.

V I E MAGAZ INE . COM | 127


202 2 D I G I TAL G RA F FI T I AWA R DS PA RTY Friday, May 13 // 6–8 PM // The Gulf Green // Alys Beach, Florida Live Music // Bouj&Co. Champagne Cart & Bottle Art // Parisian–Style Market Gourmet Fo od Truck // Fresh Flowers // Plein Air Painting by Francisco Adaro & More!

D I G I TA L G R A F F I T I 2022 T I C K E T S N OW AVA I L A B L E

DIGITALGRAFFITI.COM


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W AT C H O R L I S T E N T O V I E S P E A K S | C O N V E R S AT I O N S W I T H H E A R T & S O U L L i s t e n o n S p o t i f y | Wa t c h o n Yo u Tu b e | S u b s c r i b e o n i Tu n e s | v i e m a g a z i n e . c o m


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it’s all about the experience

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