IDIR MAGAZINE: The Big Fashion Issue by IDIR MAGAZINE

IDIR THE CREATIVE PLACE-MAKING MAGAZINE

face the designer

feature

VO.4

THE BIG FASHION ISSUE

coldvenus

Isaacwest

saintOla jUMMY

houseofNGUYENDESIGN MIMINGUYEN

YESSENYA

brislarara

Stylist-Mimi Giek, Exclusive shoot//Photography Darlington Panton, MUA- Francisca Abbeyn

BOYISH JORDAN BLAKE MARIE SHEPHERD Style by: ISAAC WEST

WWW.IDIRMAGAZINE.COM

JORDAN BLAKE MARIE SHEPHERD Style by: ISAAC WEST Coat, H&M $45.00 Sweater, Polo Ralph Lauren, $60.00 Pants, H&M $35.00 Shoe, Converse $30.00

KING

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JORDAN BLAKE MARIE SHEPHERD Style by: ISAAC WEST Coat, H&M $45.00 Sweater, Polo Ralph Lauren, $60.00 Pants, H&M $35.00 Shoe, Converse $30.00

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JORDAN BLAKE MARIE SHEPHERD Style by: ISAAC WEST Coat, H&M $45.00 Sweater, Polo Ralph Lauren, $60.00 Pants, H&M $35.00 Shoe, Converse $30.00

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JORDAN BLAKE MARIE SHEPHERD Style by: ISAAC WEST Coat, H&M $45.00 Sweater, Polo Ralph Lauren, $60.00 Pants, H&M $35.00 Shoe, Converse $30.00

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IDIR MAGAZINE

The Big Fashion Issue 2016

CONTENTS

02 BOYISH KING | fall fashion style, Isaac West

BOYISH KING

12 COLDVENUS

| Designer Isaac West

18 TOP BEAUTY PRODUCT | Promotion inside 20 ASIAN AFFAIR | Asian fashion, www.yesstyle.com 32 ENVISION FW16 | MNFW2016, Designer fall

collections 38 MUROL

| Phone app, see the big picture

40 SAINT OLA

| Designer collection

42 AFRO PUNK 2016 | Promotion, best of Afro punk fashion 44 TRENDY MEN FASHION | Trending men fashion & products

COLDVENUS

FEATURES

IN THIS ISSUE SAINT OLA

DESIGNER |YOUNG EMERGING DESIGNERS We focus this issue on our favorite up and coming young talented designer breaking into the fashion world with their amazing design. Most of our young talents featured in this issue are primarily based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Some of our favorites - Isaac West [Coldvenus], Saint Ola design, Chinese couture, M. Heurh Design, and Mimi Nguyen- House of Nyugen Design.

FASHION FORWARD | BEST OF FWMN 2016 The top 13 fashion designers that wowed us on the Envisions 20th season Fall 2016 collections runway from ACG, ClichÃ©, ColdVenus, Emah The Label, George Moskal, Joeleen Torvick, Kindred Folk, Kyra Deva, Raul Osorio, Reinier Vigoa, Russell Bourrienne, Spencer Versteeg, and Xee Vang. EXECLUSIVE from Fresh Tradition 10th years Fashion Runway [ celebrating Hmong Couture ] SHOOT | IN RETROSPECT In celebration of our big fashion issue, we are taking you down memory land, a look back at some of our best most memorable fashion shoots from the past months any year.

HOUSE OF NGUYEN DSIGN

CONTRIBUTORS

IN THIS ISSUE

MIMI GIEK

VIBE BRINER..Muse. Wardrobe Stylist. Visual artist And model. [ Stylist of IDIR cover ] Contact: allthingsee@gmail.com Instagram: @ee_ Minneapolis,Minnesota

SUNSHINE YANG

MUA. Radiance of Sunshine [ Minneapolis, Minnesota ] Specialize in beauty, fashion, wedding and editorial etc. Booking [email: sunshineyang@ gmail.com] // Facebook & Instagram @sunshineyang

DOMINIQUE SPILLMAN Makeup Artist & Stylist Specialize in [ extensions, hair cut, coloring] MUA: beauty, fashion, editorial and wedding, etc Professional service: Style by DOM -events, special occasion and one-onone...Contact: [email: dominique_spillman@outlook.com] Facebook & Instagram: @styleby_dom

FRANCISCA ABBEY

MUA. FacebyFanci FacebyFanci LLC-founder/owner [ Minneapolis, Minnesota ] Specialize in beauty, fashion, wedding and editorial etc. Booking [email: facebyfanci@gmail.com] // Facebook & Instagram @facebyfanci_

Bris Laeara

Fashion Designer, Creator, Illustrator Design: Yessenya [ IDIR cover ] Instagram: @brislarara www.yessenya.com Minneapolis,Minnesota

Want to get your face beat for whatever occasions ..well look no further-contact Miss SUNSHINE YANG for a beautiful face beat makeup work that will get both men and women looking and talking about you for the rest of the night. ...YANG is one of the best in the MUA business. She know her stuff and will get the work done with outstanding result that will leave you smiling and beautiful.....MISS YANG use the most popular and advance products in the biz so do not worry about anything miss Yang got your back.....[if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a photographer looking to get some awesome beauty shots , getting married or just looking to get some stunning makeup done; contact

SUNSHINE YANG......

Instagram: @radianceofsunshine same as Facebook...

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ASIA Editorial MUA Sunshine Yang Model Hongman Lee beauty face shot, Red shadow Asian makeup concept, creative director-Darlington. p // photographer IDIR issue 4, designer :

The Big Fashion Issue..... Mac- products

SUNSHINE YANG MAKEUP ARTIST

Coldvenus Since 2010

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Coldvenus ISAAC WEST

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Coldvenus collection, Models, Hongman Lee, Hannah Peltier & Jordan Blake Marie Shepherd, Photographer Darlington panton

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Coldvenus ISAAC WEST

Coldvenus collection, Models, Hongman Lee, Nyakim Gach Gatwech Gor & Jordan Blake Marie Shepherd, Photographer Darlington panton IDIR - 14

Coldvenus collection, Models, Hongman Lee, Hannah Peltier & Jordan Blake Marie Shepherd, Photographer Darlington panton

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TOP BEAUTY PRODUCTS

Marc Jacobs

IN THE BIZ.... GET THE LATEST BRANDS IN YOUR BEAUTY COLLECTIONS Treat yourself with the best because you’re not like everyone else...

Marc Jacobs

Beauty Enamored Hi-Shine Lip Lacquer Pink Steam, Rebel, Love Buzz Enamored Hi-Shine Lacquer

S ior

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to ing is the p o g eu , it t’s D ha spirit mak t g 6 hin liday 201 t y o h day an re’s in the r holi e h If t you endo t ge r Spl Dio

4 OPI Nail Lacquer, Take A Right On Bourbon

3 Dior Dream-skin Perfect Skin Cushion Fall 2016 – Beauty Trends and Latest Makeup Collections

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These handy cleansing sticks can be applied straight to the face, meaning no germs added into the mix. And there’s one for every skin care…

9 CHANEL LE BLANC Intensive Brightening Spot Treatment Day & Night Duo

8 CHANEL LE BLANC Make up and beauty accessories for everyday on the -go makeover kits...Look good why you achieve you goals....

Goddess’ Skin Clay Mask Charlotte’s Magic Cream

Charlotte Tilbury Goddess Skin Clay Mask brings you smoother, fresher, flawlessly new baby-like skin in just 10 minutes while cleaning and tightening pores and leaving them less visible. It’s formulated with the Bio Nymph Peptide Complex, ... Sold by Nordstrom

Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Cream! Lifts and transforms tired skin in an instant with a secret mix of patented anti-aging ingredients, a hyaluronic acid booster, plus floral extracts! IDIR - 19

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ASIAN LOVE AFFAIR

DPSTUDIO PHOTOGRAPHY BY

DARLINGTON PANTON

YESSTYLE. STORE WORLDWIDE

WWW.YESSTYLE.COM

Models, Nurrisa, Homang Li, Sophia, Rosiee Nguyen Styled, Yesstyle- ColorfulFlower Dresses with Chinese prints concept.. Shoes- DSW MUA: Sunshine Yang photo by: Darlington Panton Editor: Darlington Assistant: Isaac west production: IDIR magazine

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YESSTYLE. STORE WORLDWIDE

WWW.YESSTYLE.COM

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Models, Nurrisa Chaiwut Styled, Mahjongmission- Blue Chinese Flower Dresses with Chinese prints and sparkle jewels.. Shoes- DSW MUA: Sunshine Yang photo by: Darlington Panton Editor: Darlington Assistant: Isaac west production: IDIR magazine

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Models, Hongman Li Styled, Mahjongmission- Red Chinese Flower Dresses with Chinese prints Shoes- Chinese MUA: Sunshine Yang photo by: Darlington Panton Editor: Darlington Assistant: Isaac west production: IDIR magazine

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Models, Hongman Li - Red Chinese Flower Dresses with Chinese prints Shoes- Chinese MUA: Sunshine Yang photo by: Darlington Panton Editor: Darlington Assistant: Isaac west production: IDIR magazine

ASIAN LOVE AFFAIR// f

ashion editorial dedicated to Asian fashion both traditional and modern. Shoot highlights fashionable dresses from China and Thai ; bring together a Asian fusion of beauty, fashion and culture...Something never seen before in a creative platform... All of the models in this editorial captured the essence of Asian fashion culture and beauty... Big thanks to all the team member that help to bring this remarkable editorial collection to live for everyone to see.. Thanks to our stylist, MUA- Sunshine Yang, Models-Nurrisa Chaiwut, Hongman Li , Sophia and Rosiee Nguyen. Also a Big thank to our team at IDIR magazine for the amazing job done...

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Models, Hongman Li, Nurrisa Chaiwut Styled, Mahjongmission- Red & blue Chinese Flower Dresses with Chinese prints Shoes- Chinese & DSW MUA: Sunshine Yang photo by: Darlington Panton Editor: Darlington Assistant: Isaac west production: IDIR magazine

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Ready for Winter Causal Winter menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

The Whole Outfit for Guys Casual Male Fashion Blog:. (retrodrive.tumblr.com)current trends | style | ideas | inspiration |

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IDIRMAGAZINE.COM RUNWAY VIDEOS

BACKSTAGE BEAUTY FASHION FLIMS EMERGING TALENTS DESIGNERS ART AND MORE

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WHO

BEST OF MNFW16 RUNWAY 1

COLDVENUS FASHION BY: ISAAC WEST

[ENVISION MNFW16 10years Anniversary fall Runway] ....Model walk the runway with sexy liquid metallic gold dress by Coldvenus design. Designer Isaac West bought simplicity and sexy with a feel of elegant to Envision MNFW16 Minneapolis, Minnesota.

REINIER VIGOA RED silk velvet dress with neck bow tie and dripped split shoulder line, definitely a eye catcher....

George Moskal

Collection was out of this world amazing..His use of glam fabrics like velvet, silk and rust color seen here in rust orange jumpsuit was outstanding and graceful to watch down the runway at Envision MNFW16...

3 Designer XEE VANG Collections was remarkable and one of our favorite of the night and most attendees felt the same....

The rest of the collections was very classical. Moskal feathered dress with a faux-fur coat was another great effect of

fashion week

WHO BEST OF MNFW16 RUNWAY ACG-

ANNA CHAMBER GPLDBERG Collections explored creativity and artery which is rarely seen in Envision runway show; definitely set her design apart from all the other designers. Here more model show a red avant-grade Japanese-print with abstract painter like influence; give life to the piece.

RUSSELL BOURRIENNE

Fashion men’s design captivated style and fashion of 70’s era vibe which the audience at Envision love...Best of men for the night

KYRA DEVA

One of our personal favorite of EVMNFW16. Her design was prefect symbol of elegant styling with a bit of sex appeal. Wild west inspired outfit with the hats was by far the best..

JOELEEN TARVIK

Fall collection displayed a handful of sophisticated looks. Every piece had their own uniqueness that would anyone since of style....

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Models, Rosiee Nguyen Styled, Mahjongmission- Pink Vietnamese Flower Dresses with Silk pants Shoes- DSW MUA: Sunshine Yang photo by: Darlington Panton Editor: Darlington Assistant: Isaac west production: IDIR magazine

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V I E T N A M E S E F A S H I O N ROSIEE NGUYEN

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This new intriguing Red Rev T Multi-Function Collection from Scuderia Ferrari is sure to please! With an ergonomic structure, textured dial, detailed “rev counter” between the 12 and 3 O’Clock positions, and 500M Water Resistance this watch is the perfect addition to any ensemble. Brand: Ferrari Gender: Men Dial Color: Black Band Color: Black Band Material: Silicone Case Diameter (MM): 44 Case Material: Stainless Steel Clasp: Buckle Collection: Red Rev T Multi-Function Display: Analog Crystal: Mineral Watch Movement: Quartz Water Resistance (M): 500 Calendar: Date Warranty: 1 Year Savvy Watch Warranty Features: Chronograph

New intriguing Red Rev T Multi-Function Collection from Scuderia Ferrari Sold by Savvy Watch.... www.savvywatch.com

MUROL APP // WWW.MUROL.COM

SEE THE BIG PICTURE FACEBOOK / TWITTER / INSTAGRAM...

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MUROLINFO@MUROLAPP.COM Visit; www.murol.com

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SAINT OLA Contemporary Style and Design tastefully influenced by culture....

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AFRO PUNK PROMOTION

THE BEST OF AFRO PUNK FASHION. EVERY DAY. [2016 damionkare.tumblr.com

www.wgsn.com/blogs

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www.imdisla.com

“BEAUTIFUL THINGS DON’T SEEK ATTENTION” Love self....IDIR magazine

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WHAT’S TREND-

ING IN THE MEN’S DEPARTMENT...

GET THE INSIDE SCOPE ON THE COOLEST STUFF AND START LOOKING GOOD.

Urban Outfitters $89.99 Adidas Tubular X Sneaker.. Modern min-

1 Brown leather dress shoe for all men Valentino Uomo Valentino cologne - a new fragrance for men

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imalist basketball sneaker from adidas. Mesh construction features flexible knit uppers, toe + heel pullers, a heel stabilizer

7 Unisex Ice cream Baseball Cap Adjustable Strapback Trucker Hats from Polyvore

Denim x by Polyvore featuring Calvin Klein Underwear, Balmain, adidas Originals, Rolex, menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion and menswear

5 JOGGER: A PacSun.com Online Exclusive! New Standard comes with a new look pair of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cargo jogger pants found at PacSun. The Jordan Cargo Jogger Pants come with a stretchy body, slant front pockets, and elastic cuffs

3 Black Fashionable hand bees

Borsalino Rabbit-Felt Fedora Hat IDIR - 45

MIMI NGUYEN House of Nguyen Design- collection Model. Mali Apple Henschel, Photographer, Chasadie Necessary Style by- House of Nguyen Design

House of Nguyen Designs Designer Mimi Nguyen One of our best of FWMN16 IDIR - 46

MIMI NGUYEN House of Nguyen Design- collection Model. Mali Apple Henschel, Photographer, Chasadie Necessary Style by- House of Nguyen Design

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MIMI NGUYEN House of Nguyen Design- collection Model. Mali Apple Henschel, Photographer, Chasadie Necessary Style by- House of Nguyen Design

Designer Mimi Nguyen

House of Nguyen Designs instagram @houseofnguyendesign Info : www.houseofnguyen.com

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M.HEUR

H by Mai

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Christin phian and

D by: Kham ALLKIN

See

Heurh g Couture Lylena Yan

M.HEURHMai See Heurh

IGN g - DES Khou Chan

RUNWAY PHOTOS

OS. Couture by Oskar Ly

Seelia Vachon- DESIGN

Fresh Tradition 10 years fashion HMONG COUTURE FWMN16

Celebrating 10 years of Hmong culture and couture..

IGN

DES

IG N

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ONE OF IDIR SOCIETY

he History Of Society, much like the history of art and creativity, the alternates between moments of brilliant achievement and periods of stagnation and decline. At its pinnacle, 20thcentury society produced Truman Capote’s spectacular 1966 Black and White Ball, and the queen of that era including Capot’s swans as well as luminaries such as Bunny Mellon and Jayne Wrightsman stands out as supreme examples of their type but the as gaudy mannerism followed Renaissance classicism, the society world since then has sometimes suffered under the weight of its affectations. The Seventies, society began to mimic pop culture, thanks to Studio 54 habitues like Diane von Furstenberg, who along with Gloria Vanderbilt, heralded the arrival of the working societies: Though both women had money and a fancy name, they launched fashion business and became Warhol muses. The eighties witnessed a certain revivalist vigor on the scene. In Europe, party girls Francesca Thyssen and Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis proved that the aristocracy could still produce spitfires, but the real action was with New York’s Nouvelle society, which launched daily at Swifty’s. The eighties bring us a different sound of music that breaks the norms; names like Run DMC, 2pac, and Big Smalls, etc invaded the airways. The 21st-century society modernized our thinking and brought new innovation. An era of technology and the free thinkers, re-shaping the idea of fashion, arts, and creativity in ways that defied the classical ideal but yet still carried the tradition.

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www.idirmagazine.com

ONE YEAR OF IDIR PURSUING ONE YEAR OF IMAGERY AND CREATIVITY FROM THE IDIR ARCHIVES, Salvador Dali, “HAVE NO FEAR OF PERFECTION, YOU’LL NEVER REACH IT.”

SOCIAL STUDIES

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COVER lifestyle BYYESSENYA DESIGNER bRIS LAEARA STYLE BYEe______

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www.y.yessenya.com

YESSENYA Top, by designer Bris Laeara, bottom jean[right], Levi, [Shorts] Lands, shoe [right]-nude pointed toe pumps, Jimmy Choo...[left]bottom, Tommy Hilfiger, [shorts]-Levi, ShoeCharlotte Ruse stylist, Ee___ , Mimi Giek, MUA- Facebyfanci Models. Fernanda Almeida & Cianneh Brown, photographer, Darlington Panton, Assistant Issac West IDIR - 55

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Top, Requirement-BCBG MAXAZRIA, Shirt: BEHAR-New York, pants: Joseph Bank, Shawl: H&M Chocker: Nastygal, Shoes: Anne Klein & Prima Royale stylist, Ee___ , Mimi Giek, MUAFacebyfanci, Models. Fernanda Almeida & Cianneh Brown, photographer, Darlington Panton, Assistant Issac West IDIR - 57

Top [left] BCBG MAXAZRIA, pant: Joseph A Banks, shawl: H&M, Shoe: Prima Royale, Top [right]: shirt, BEHAR- New York, Chocker: Nastygal, Shoe: Anne Klein stylist, Ee___ , Mimi Giek, MUA- Facebyfanci Models. Fernanda Almeida & Cianneh Brown, photographer, Darlington Panton, Assistant Issac West IDIR - 58

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WHO

Over Seventy Years of Fashion History

ver Seventy Years of Fashion History - How Fashions Have Changed Since the 1920s?

It is amazing to see how the different events in history have influenced and changed the way people have dressed throughout time. Some of the most popular fashions are classic, they can stand the test of time and hardly ever “go out of style”, only experiencing minor changes to keep up with the trends. Other clothing items could be considered “fads”, styles that are only popular for a short season and then never worn again. Often certain fashion trends are dependent on the tastes of particular groups of people or cliques and are usually associated with social status or cultural preferences like the type of music a person likes. Fashion can also be influenced by world events such as war or the economy. For example, during World War II, people were only allowed a certain amount of fabric so they were forced to create simple outfits that were practical enough for wartime duties. From the 1920s to the 1990s, popular fashions reflected the mood of each decade and showcased changes in society as the styles of clothing and accessories evolved with the times. Two of the most iconic fashions of the 1920’s are the cloche hat and the flapper dress. The cloche hat of the 1920s evolved from the wider-brimmed hats of the decade before, and continued to evolve up until the 1930s and beyond. The basic description of the cloche hat is that it is a very snug-fit hat that was often worn tilted, covering the forehead, yet allowing room for vision. The hair was often cut short and styled flat to fit under these types of hats. Cloche type hats often covered the ears as well, and even sometimes the ends of women’s short haircuts of the time. Often the flapper style clothing and the cloche hat were worn together, especially during the latter half of the Decade. These Accessories are featured From the Years 1923 and 1926 Fashion By Lanvin by Seeberger Freres on Getty Images

Beyond the Cloche and Flapper Clothing styles consisted of more than just the cloche and flapper. In fact, this is the era during which more casual clothing

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Was introduced to the public. For example, women began to wear pants more often and there were certain styles of women’s shoes that were unique to this decade as well. Some of the breakout shoe styles included the ankle strap button shoe, the t-bar shoe, and shoes trimmed with sequins or other materials. The men of the era began to abandon formal wear as well when more and more men left full suits with long suit jackets for special events and began wearing shorter suit jackets for more casual occasions. During World War II, luxurious fabrics like wool, silk and nylon were highly regulated and women’s skirts and dresses were often made of viscose and rayon. Skirts and dresses would also be made out of anything that could be found within a home (like curtains, nightgowns or bed sheets) due to the illegality of using excess fabric when making an outfit from about 1942 to 1947. With the economic boom in the 1950s, glamour become fashionable once again and A-line and pencil skirts were very popular form-fitting fashions.

Over Seventy Years of Fashion History Dresses in the decade would often feature stylish ruffles or lace accents and were usually knee-length or tea-length. Going into the late fifties and 1960s mini-dresses and maxi-length skirt outfits entered the scene. Mod styled dresses with short skirts and bold, colorful patterns became popular. Mary Quant, a Mod fashion designer is one of the people credited with creating the iconic mini-skirt of the mid-sixties. In the late sixties and seventies hippie fashion took over and loose-fitting, flowing maxi skirts and dresses became dominant. Disco music and dance also influenced dresses with slender lines, flowing skirts and the shimmering fabrics that would look best in a night club. 1950’s Fashions including prices Men’s, ladies and children’s fashions in the 1950’s Fashion and Accessories of the 1950’s The End of Rationing and the Beginning of Excess During World War II and the 1940’s, clothing was greatly influenced by rationing and limited quantities of fabrics, threads and needles, so the most popular look was a simple outfit using as little of these much in demand resources as possible. Once

World War II and rationing ended, a new availability of different types of fabrics and larger quantities of these fabrics allowed a new type of fashion to bloom during the fifties, especially in the United States. Women’s dresses in particular exploded with excess fabric, showing off intricate gatherings, a multitude of pleats, poofy petticoats, and fabulous collars, all made of the best taffeta, nylon, rayon, wool and leather in the brightest and boldest patterns and colors. The 1950’s marked the beginning of one of the biggest economic booms in US history and spurred the rise of consumerism and American excess that has defined a lot of our culture in the US and worldwide for the past sixty years. Style Clothing became an important part of culture in the 1950s, with the country going through many societal and cultural changes. It would showcase one’s place in society more so than ever before and became a way to express conformity and individual identity. The Rise of Teenage Culture Around the middle of the decade a separation between child and adult styles began and the gap was filled by teenage

Clothing. Resulting from the economic boom and baby boom coinciding, teenage style, culture, and consumerism became a major part of society for the first time in recent history. Teens started to get disposable income from parents and part-time jobs, they also started to gain more leisure time and that combination meant more shopping. Around 1955, we start to see that some of the biggest trends are targeted towards teenagers. Suddenly, whole departments and catalog sections are devoted to (mainly female) teenagers and young adults. At this point, teenage culture and clothing also became a larger part of television, movies and music. Teens started to get disposable income from parents and parttime jobs, they also started to gain more leisure time and that combination meant more shopping. Around 1955, we start to see that some of the biggest trends are targeted towards teenagers. Suddenly, whole departments and catalog sections are devoted to (mainly female) teenagers and young adults. At this point, teenage culture and clothing also became a larger part of television, movies and music. The Beginnings of Change At the end of the 1950’s, we start to see less conservative styles appear. Sexier silhouettes with tighter skirts, shirts and dresses start to show up for women. Rebellious looks for men also emerge with leather motorcycle jackets, studded boots, and bolder patterned shirts and sweaters becoming popular at the latter end of the decade. Girls and women start to get more clothing options in terms of pants and shorts with pedal pushers, Bermuda shorts, and tapered leggings featuring prominently in style trends. Fashions from the fifties greatly showcased the mood of the decade and emphasized consumerism and conformity. Going into the 1960’s, fashions started to reflect the upcoming diversity and individuality that would become the main focus behind the fashion revolution during the next decade.

fashion.lilithezine.com/images

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Over Seventy Years of Fashion History

Men’s, ladies and children’s fashions in the 1960’s including prices Cultural Changes in Society and Their Effect on Fashion Fashion and Accessories of the 1960’s During the sixties, the economic boom that began during the previous decade continued for the most part. With more people benefiting from prosperity and the culture moving further

Images. On the Subway in New York City in the 1960’s. by Danny Lyon

away from the idea of post-war rationing, the way a lot of people interacted with fashion began to change. Less people needed to, or even wanted to make their own clothes and the emergence of even more commercial fashion opportunities meant that using clothing as a status symbol was no longer confined to the wealthiest. Fashion could now be used to distinguish between levels within the middle class and even within the poorest classes in the United States. Culture and society also became more casual. Much of the clothing could straddle the line between formal and casual and clothing could be mixed and matched to make many different outfits for different occasions. Many more outfits began to feature slimmer and sleeker lines with A-line and shift dresses being amongst the most popular fashions for women and tapered dress shirts being popular with men. Along with a more modern look, people took fashion cues from prominent figures in politics (Jackie Kennedy and the pillbox hat) to entertainment (Cher with long black hair and bell-bottoms). What was acceptable in terms of personal fashion changed quickly and often. Hemlines of skirts rose higher for women, hair length grew longer on men, and two piece bikinis became common swimming attire. If fashion of the 1950s first inspired individual identity through style, the sixties fully embraced and encouraged it. IDIR - 62

Hippie Fashion and the Counterculture At the opposite end of the consumer fashion spectrum from the Mods were the Hippies and their unique style. The hippie counterculture emerged from the West Coast culture of the United States and spread throughout the country from the mid-sixties onward. The Haight-Ashbury area in San Francisco and Greenwich Village in New York City were hot spots for Hippie fashions in particular. The style became more represented in mainstream culture after 1967’s “Summer of Love” and the look was popular from that point on until the mid-seventies. Hippie fashion represented a rebellion against consumerism and the clothes and accessories were often handmade or purchased from flea markets. The style featured long “maxi” skirts, bell-bottomed jeans, flowing fabric tops, peasant blouses, paisleys, florals, bright tie-dyes, and Eastern, Indian, Native American, and African motifs. Sandals were the footwear of choice for men and women and long hair was encouraged. The conventional rules for presenting oneself were wholly shunned and men sported long, unkempt beards with their long hair. Hippie women rejected make-up and revolted against the restricting shape-wear garments like girdles, padded bras, nylons and controllers that had been considered the norm for the previous decades. Overall the fashion of the hippie counterculture demonstrated what they considered to be a more natural look that looked to turn pre-conceived notions around and have the mainstream culture questioning their own fashion rules. Fashion and Accessories of the 1970’s.. “Anything Goes Fashion” and Individual Expression

photo by model / photographer Natasha Ndlovu.

WHO

Over Seventy Years of Fashion History Beginning in the late 1960’s and continuing into the 1970’s, wearing clothes was more about individual expression than it was about fitting in. Many people during this decade primarily dressed in ways to please themselves rather than other people. However, this does not mean that people did not value high fashion because the opposite was true. The clothing and accessories worn on the runway were made into more radical designs than they had ever been in years before. Prominent trends included flared or “bell-bottom” pants, tunics, pantsets, leisure suits, and overalls. Exotic prints, polyester fabrics, checks, bright colors, embroidered details, and satin, corduroy or velvet textures were very popular too. Individualism and self-expression were important for people during the 1970s, no matter how much or how little money a person made. When it came to fashion, the largest differences between the types of individualism and self-expression (that were displayed through clothes in this era) were most likely due to both class and taste. For example, “Hippie” style was popular throughout the beginning and middle of the decade and there was a marked difference between what some could call “Anything Goes” hippie clothing and “Designer” hippies. The latter would be more likely to coordinate their outfits in accordance with style trends, whereas the former would be less likely to follow trends at all and would mix pieces as they pleased.

Fashion was rapidly changing in the 1980s and more diverse than ever before. Due to increased globalization of the world and pop culture trends in fashion spread faster than ever and were more widespread. Changes in technology and the expansion of cable television and networks like MTV meant that TV, Movie and Music celebrities’ fashion was more accessible to fans and viewers and an increased obsession with celebrities brought fashion into the forefront of pop culture. The fashions and styles during the decade represented more distinct groups than ever before. In the past there would usually be one or two predominant styles at a time, whereas in the 1980s, several separate and distinct groups of trends were all sharing the popularity at one time. The portrayal of different fashionable groups in movies like The Breakfast Club and St. Elmo’s Fire showcased the variety of trends available at the time and it is hard to say whether these movies took their cues from the general public fashion-wise or if the public tried to imitate the fashion from the movies. A general synopsis of fashion and clothing/style trends of the decade include big teased hair or spiral perms for women, mullets or more clean-cut styles for men, baggy and oversized tops, leggings, high-waisted jeans, ripped and acid-washed denim, tight exercise clothing for everyday (leg warmers and spandex), headbands, shoulder pads, boxy silhouettes, large bold prints, and colorful

“Power Clothes” and Other Trends in Fashion Some of the “power clothes” worn by working women in the 1970s include lines of suits created by Karl Lagerfield, who designed under the Chloé label. Another working or casual outfit that was created during this time was the tomato red linen suit jacket worn with white silk crepe blouse and soft leather elastic-wasted pants with seams in the knees. Women could also wear blazers with pants and sweaters or they could choose from a number of professional-looking jacket and skirt sets. For the evening, many women wore simple classic timeless dresses such as a long flowing red evening dress. Fashion and Accessories of the 1980’s Globalization, Diversification and the Popularization of Fashion

pastels and brights. Musical Tastes’ Influence on Fashion Thanks to the creation of MTV, some fashion trends were directly related to music. New Wave bands, Hair Metal bands, Rap groups and rappers, and Pop stars would often have a variety of styles associated with their music that fans would attempt to mimic. New Wave style included androgynous looking hair and make-up, women in menswear, short hair or asymmetrical cuts, futuristic make-up, square lines, color-blocking and layers. IDIR - 63

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SHOP AMBOZELI CLOTHING www.ambozeli.com

Over Seventy Years of Fashion History Some artists that exemplified the New Wave look at the time were Cyndi Lauper, Annie Lennox, Boy George, Blondie and Madonna. Hip-Hop style included track suits, sportswear brands like ADIDAS and Nike, Kangol hats, and gold chains and rings. Some artists that were representative of this style were Run-DMC, LL Cool J, and Salt-n-Pepa. Hair metal style included ripped jeans and shirts, tight spandex jump suits, acid wash denim, band T-shirts, big hair for men and women, mullets, make-up for men and women, and leather. Some examples were Poison, Van Halen, Lita Ford and Twisted Sister. The 90’s Fashion to present day Teen styles from the 1990s had many more variations

Chanel Spring 1994 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show

than in decades before. As in the 1970s, trends from this time on became more about individual expression for teens rather than following a trend, and as a result, numerous sub-groups, often called “cliques” were formed. From the 1990s to the present day, one group of teens may wear the usual jeans and T-shirt outfit and other groups, such as punks, wear ripped jeans, spiked or colored hair, and body piercings. In the present day, teen clothing has also become quite risque, although fashion professionals frown upon certain trends. Overall, clothing is much more casual and relaxed for teens than in times past. Many teens are not required to wear school uniforms at all, unless attending a private school. Article by: http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/fashions

The dominant youth clothing fad at the beginning of the 1990s was fluorescent clothing in blue, green, orange, pink, and yellow. Hoop earrings were also a popular accessory for teenage girls and women in the first years of the 1990s. Plaid shirts were also popular. Popular colors for girls included coral, hot pink, bright lime green, and turquoise. In Britain and the US, girls wore oversized tee shirts, sweat shirts, turtleneck sweaters, slouch socks worn over sweatpants or leggings, black or white lace trimmed bike shorts with babydoll dresses, belts worn with dresses, Dress shorts worn with tights and ballet flats or sometimes with slouch socks over the tights and Keds, tights with slouch socks and Keds, sweaters, crew neck T-shirts, ballet flats, Keds, Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars, boat shoes, shortalls worn in summer with ballet flats or Keds, leotards and pantywaist tops worn with jeans or skirts, colored jeans especially in medium and dark green, red, and purple, long sleeved T-shirts, and athletic shorts such as the Nike Tempo. Boys wore soccer shorts, jean jackets, tartan shirts, tapered acid wash jeans, colored jeans in medium and dark green, red, and purple colors sweatpants, and single or double stripe athletic socks worn with everything from shorts to rolled jeans and khakis. IDIR - 65

The Women’s

FASHION WEEK Trends fall/winter -2016 -2017

Womens-Camel-Coats-Autumn-Winter-2016-Fashion-Trend-1 BY: thebestfasionblog.com/wp-content

elle prefall trend report shearling... Leopard, tiered skirts, shearling, and more...www.elle.com

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Trends & Shopping Guides... THE BIG CHILL: SHOP WINTER’S BEST COATS. Add a touch of glamour to your everyday look with the season’s most opulent coats... www.harpersbazaar.com

Fall/ Winter Fashion trends Fall 2016 Menswear Theory by NICOLE PHELPS Theory’s head of menswear, Ben Stubbington, presented his new Fall collection in the label’s Gansevoort Street store, side by side with Spring merchandise available to purchase. It was a rejoinder, of sorts, to the see-now-buy-now talk of the past several months (which crescendoed today with announcements from Burberry and Tom Ford). www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/ fall-2016-menswear/ theory

LET’S TALK MEN’ s Trends 2016-17

Looks to add to your fashion collection and winter closet. Bring winter in style.. Details Style Syndicate Wintry contrast style by Adam Gallagher

New York City· www.details.com

10 men’s fashion trends you need to know for Autumn/Winter 2016 | British GQ \ www.GQ.com IDIR - 67

IDIR RUNWAY WHY 2017 WON’T BE LIKE “2017”

OUR

FAVORITE OF FWMN16 Runway Report... M.HEURH by Mai See Heurh Mai See Heurh collection definitely wowed the audiences at Fresh Tradition X Fashion Show. Her combination of vibrant colors and dark blue follow by silk fabric were astonishing. Her collection was by far one of the most memorable designs of the night and our overall favorite. I mean this lady light up the runway with beautiful use of colors. The all red silk pant and top follow by the pink and red fur coat, and blue earpiece jewelry was just unbelievable jaw dropping. The all blue silk pant-like dress with flower print mixed with the dark brown and white print fur was another spectacular piece. If you were looking for color, silk, fur and elegance, Heurh was without a doubt your choice. Her design adds a new meaning to high fashion mixed with culture. FINE HER ON instagram : @m.heurh_designa

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M.HEURH by Mai See Heurh

COLDVENUS BY ISAAC WEST IDIR - 72

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OS. Couture by Oskar Ly IDIR - 75

George Moskal IDIR - 76

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Designer XEE VANG IDIR - 78

RUSSELL BOURRIENNE IDIR - 79