Wedding Trader - issue 42

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Introducing the stunning new Romantica Bridal collections for 2025. Visit us at The Crown Hotel during Bridal Week Harrogate from the 8th - 10th September 2024 for your chance to see the range.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk | enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Ed’s Letter

Football, tennis, Ascot. It’s been a hectic season for sports fans everywhere, but how has it been for our retailers who are coming to terms with a new and different picure of our industry, and our brides whose wants, needs and understanding have changed so much in recent years? With a new government in place, that, too, has resulted in a rethink for many who are spend-concerned and more so now than in the past couple of years.

You will read in this issue the views of a number of well-established shop owners who have been analysing recent sales performances and assessing the way forward to safeguard their businesses. The experiences and opinions they have shared with Wedding Trader are exactly what others can learn from, and what has emerged from these discussions is the very genuine belief throughout the industry that it is crucial to support one another, including those who, in the past, have been regarded as serious competition. Working together and exchanging ideas will benefit us all. Harrogate next month will be an excellent stage to meet with colleagues old and new and come together to share thoughts and arrive at best ways to meet next-stage objectives.

The industry is sad to be saying a very fond farewell to Mark and Lesley Monk who over the years have made an indelible impression on the world of bridal. We wish them the very best in their new chapter. Retirement? Can't see those two sitting back and relaxing!

EDITOR

SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

Andy Allen Art Director

“The newest trends in men’s formalwear are making me re-think my wardrobe!” (p58)

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding

“The new collections are a dream. More feminine and flirty than ever before. Can’t wait for Harrogate!” (p46)

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales

“Advice on picking up the right signals on your mobile phone is invaluable to those of the move.” (p90)

Contact

Editor

Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Deputy Editor Jade Pepperell jade@meanttobemedia.com

Sales Manager

Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com

Art Director

Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

WEDDING

@WeddingTraderUK

Cover image: Cool chic from Stella York by Essense of Australia

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TALKING POINT

The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

LUCY MINAS AND PHIL SWIFT NEW UK SALES AGENTS FOR TANIA OLSEN AND MAYA BELLA

Tania Olsen, the celebrated Australian bridal fashion brand, is delighted to announce that Lucy Minas and Phil Swift, formerly agents for Kenneth Winston, have joined the team as the new UK sales agents. Their expertise and passion for bridal fashion will be instrumental as Tania Olsen prepares to launch the highlyanticipated Maya Bella collection at Harrogate this September.

Catering to every bride from size 4 to 40, the Australian brand’s attention to detail and dedication to quality have earned it a global reputation. Visionary designer Tania Olsen infuses each gown with sophistication and grace.

“We are thrilled to welcome Lucy Minas and Phil Swift to the Tania Olsen family,” she said. “Their experience and dedication to the bridal fashion industry align perfectly with our brand values. Weare confident that they will play a crucial role in bringing the beauty and elegance of both the Tania Olsen and Maya Bella collections to bridal stores across the UK.”

To discuss area exclusivity visit  taniaolsen.com.au/ or mayabella.com.au/       Your contacts are:

Lucy Minas, Southern UK Agent, 07917 410410   Phil Swift, Northern UK Agent , 07984 876330

OUR KIND OF TOWN

The National Bridal Market Chicago opens its doors on 15 September to a big and bold three-day event at the Mart. Register now at www.nationalbridalmarket.com/buyerregistration and your badge will be emailed to you this month.

Book your hotel accommodation and get the best prices at www.nationalbridalmarket.com/hotels which partners with the event. For a list of designers showing, visit www. nationalbridalmarket.com/designer-list

Arklectic – a new luxury UK shoe brand

Founded by Sophie Arkle, a former fashion industry professional and full-time mum with a passion for vibrant colours and timeless elegance, Arklectic’s debut collection showcases an exquisite range of flat shoes, each pair handcrafted in beautiful animal prints and rich, luxurious hues. Inspired by Moroccan

craftsmanship and infused with artistic flair, Arklectic shoes are meticulously made from the finest leather, offering unparalleled comfort and style. Party guests, bridesmaids, and brides themselves heading off on honeymoons will love them all.

Check out arklectic.co.uk and insta: @arklecticshoes

YEDYNA
YEDYNA

How a-MUSE-ing

Grace Loves Lace has introduced Muse, its latest Capsule Collection of four opulent gowns: Cupid, Deia, Mavi, and Aire. A brand first, Grace Loves Lace has dropped the lace for this collection, instead introducing built-in shapewear – an industry first and a decision stemmed from real bride feedback. Inspired by the woman, the body, Grace Loves Lace’s Muse evokes elevated effortlessness through old glamour style, with the gowns designed in pearlescent and luminescent stretch satin.

Find out about becoming a stockistemail wholesale@graceloveslace.com And do check out the label’s stuning new veil collection

Veni Infanino for Ronald Joyce

Says the award-winning designer:

“I am delighted to unveil my new collection, Sicilian Sunset, the inspiration of which stems from my Italian roots and my love of experimenting with fashion forward styles. The beauty of light, from the overwhelming glow of sunset to the subtle rays of sunrise, this range is a celebration of love and romance”. www.ronaldjoyce.com

Show Business

Two shows, or not two shows: that is the question. Laura Daly gives the question some consideration…

Given that many of the big American players with global business models based on two collections a year are these days often showing their gowns on their own terms at times that better suit them, and in venues of their own choosing, they know that the majority of their stockists will most likely have little or no choice other than to attend these events. So, does everyone else need to be throwing, showing and attending two or more UK trade exhibitions a year?

Here are some pros and cons, intended not necessarily to draw a conclusion, but more to open a discussion and give us all some food for thought…

Two shows a year give designers the opportunity to focus on any current trends coming through from High Street fashion or the zeitgeist arising from the latest blockbuster film or period television series.

In turn, of course, this gives retailers the chance to

stay informed, to be ahead of the game, and therefore the ability to approach prospective brides with confidence and knowledge of what might be expected to be the next popular look.

More shows, of course, offer more networking opportunities, the chance to form new partnerships, see new products sooner and, it has to be said, the invaluable spiritual benefit of increased social interaction. Twice-yearly exhibitions can encourage a steady flow of business and keep the industry vibrant throughout the year. In addition, it’s not unreasonable to think that more shows, distributed widely geographically, might sound appealing or more convenient for some buyers.

More frequent shows help maintain regular engagement between retailers and suppliers, which you would like to think can only be a positive thing. This consistent interaction can build stronger relationships and loyalty between brands and their clients.

Against that, is it really necessary for wholesalers to produce an entire new collection twice a year? When I opened my shop, this was not the case. Many will remember the time when the main buying used to be done once a year, in September, and the March show was, generally speaking, a time to look for the occasional top-up gown, or any missed gem. Although the fashion industry has traditionally presented seasonal offerings for spring/summer and autumn/winter, these distinctions are almost entirely irrelevant when it comes to wedding gowns.

From a wholesaler’s perspective, I appreciate that demanding your customers buy ten dresses twice a year, will bring in considerably more money than doing so only once a year and I suppose that must outweigh the costs involved in producing the goods, renting the exhibition space, advertising and so on. But, for many retailers, it’s time-consuming and draining, both financially and mentally, and I wouldn’t mind betting that most shops would sell more or less the same number of dresses, whether they bought once or twice a year.

One for all

A single annual show allows for a concentrated effort in planning and execution, leading to a more polished and impactful event. It can attract more attendees and create a bigger splash in the industry and garner more excitement, enthusiasm and engagement.

Attending only one show a year allows retailers more time to focus on their day-today operations and customer service.

It also allows them to make more considered and strategic purchasing decisions.

It’s just that any profit gets eaten up very quickly in the latter case. Most importantly, the industry as we know it simply will not exist if retailers’ time and effort is not suitably profitable. For suppliers, picking up a new retailer may be easier in a less pressurised environment such as a show, rather than on a one-to-one in-store appointment, as the full range of products are available to be viewed and there are often other ‘happy customers’ available to chat with and encourage new customers to sign up.

Any retailer will tell you that running their business is demanding and time-consuming. Attending only one show a year allows more time to focus on their day-to-day operations and customer service without frequent disruptions. It also allows retailers to make more considered and strategic purchasing decisions. They can plan their buying for the entire year, reducing the complexity and effort involved in attending multiple shows.

The sheer amount of waste and discontinued gowns going off to landfill is worth a mention, too. If fewer samples, smaller collections and lower minimums are the net result of reduced exhibitions, then could this be what we should be working towards, given that we’d be saving our pocket, our businesses, and reducing our impact on the environment? Ultimately, one way or another, the market will decide, and buyers and suppliers will have no choice but to fall into line, so it might be worth giving serious consideration to making change a choice, rather than something that’s forced upon us when it could be too late for the viability of our businesses.

And, with that, having opened referencing Shakespeare, perhaps I should sign off by bidding you farewell and adieu. [Exit, pursued by a bear.]

A HEARTFELT VIEW

Emma Meek tells it like it is

RAVE, RANT, REJOICE –DISCUSS VIEWPOINT

When someone asks me how am I finding the market currently I feel I ought to sigh in weariness, frown in confusion, wring my hands in despair and protest that it is hopeless. But none of those apply, says Emma Meek of Miss Bush

Iam not weary; I still feel an inner motor driving me forward. I don’t frown. The market is behaving as I thought it would. I am not desperate. Miss Bush’s turnover remains buoyant.

I am aware, however, that this is not universally applicable.

Undoubtedly, some retailers are finding trading conditions difficult, I can see that from the number of store closures. Despite the protestations on Instagram, no one closes a successful, profitable business. However the story is spun, people close bridal businesses because they are failing. That doesn’t necessarily mean that money is owed or there are no clients, it can be because owners are barely paying themselves minimum wage. Failing to spark joy or provide a work/life balance.

A fascinating article from the Business of Fashion declares that the global bridal wear market ... is projected to grow at a rate of 3.5 percent annually and is expected to reach US$83.5 billion by 2030, according to the Global Bridal Wear Market Industry report.

So where is the disconnect from a depressed UK bricks and mortar retail market and a global upturn?

Dig deep into the article and it acknowledges that Millennial and Gen-Z brides to-be... are no longer shopping for just a wedding dress, but an entire wedding wardrobe for pre- and post-wedding events.

Our trade shows and big manufacturing labels are still

working on a format that is tired, unfit for purpose. It has always existed to remove cash from startup retailers, knowing there is little or no prospect of a decent return on their investment. The same player locks them into annual sample overspend resulting in £1000s & £1000s of deadstock.

Growth in the bridal wear sector is coming from individual brides buying more items, at more price points, from an increasingly wide selection of vendors.

As a retailer located in a traditional and affluent geographic area, I have had many brides buying more than one look. However, the made-to-order price point puts this beyond the reach of even Miss Bush’s well-heeled clients.

Predicted growth is unlikely to be felt by existing traditional retailers while they maintain the status quo. So, who is likely to benefit from this projected growth?

Budget and outlet

The outlet boom is possibly of most concern for traditional retailers. The inexorable rise of the outlet store is the direct fault of the UK wholesale model.

Too many samples for too few brides in too many stores. I have been repeating this time-worn phrase for my entire career.

The industry has a glut of inventory that keeps the Revisited franchise rails full. Independent outlets often offer a sale or return for indie retailers who are awash with

samples and have limited rail space. It’s a great, lower risk business model, leaving the independent boutique taking the hit on stock depreciation. The ‘won’t last five minutes’ company Wed2B shows nearly a £29 million turnover on the latest available figures – a growth of 110%, but that was in 2022, the post pandemic boom year. Nevertheless, this 58-store behemoth powers on.

Mainstream Brands

Rixo, Self Portrait, Annies Ibiza, ASOS, Selkie, to name but a few will also benefit from the ‘wedding wardrobe’ mentality.

The very visible small, fashionable legal wedding that rose to prominence during Covid kickstarted the desire in British brides to have multiple fashion moments. I had Covid era brides that wore dresses from these and other brands for their legal, micro wedding who still wore their ‘big’ or ‘main’ dress as much as eighteen months later.

This has legitimised bridal practices that can look somewhat narcissistic and that also fly in the face of mindful consumption. Why buy just one dress you can wear once, when you can buy a whole closet load?

Influencer culture

I have no stats, but the rise in the wedding wardrobe phenomena, I believe, marks a decline in Anglican church weddings. This archaic law means that they are the only ceremonies to fulfill spiritual and legal requirements. The fashion business upside is requirement for multiple looks. A legal look, an overseas look, a blessing...

Influencer culture was made for weddings. The aspirational multi-site, extended wedding period and adoption of US practices – the welcome party dress, the rehearsal dress, the morning after brunch, the subsequent pool party look – should be, and will be, good for the bridal apparel industry. However, British brides are less inclined morally and less able financially to spend at the rate of other countries, particularly the US.

Factory Direct

I can’t compete with the budget end of the white dress market, and it is my strong belief that no independent bricks and mortar shop should even try.

Whether direct from factories or next day from ASOS, it is impossible to compete on price. The death of the High Street gives us all the evidence we need. Why offer service when none is required beyond a smooth delivery and returns policy?

Accessories and shoes

Gone are the days when added value accessory sales could improve the overall profit margin. Veils still hold their own and this season styling items such detachable sleeves, capes and knitwear are performing well.

Competitors to traditional bridal shops are many and varied. From Gigi and Olive through Etsy to wholesale accessory and shoe brands, all have a B to C sales strategy

policy and solid Ecomm platforms.

I have some radical ideas on creating relationships and working on much stronger affiliate partnerships, but it needs a willingness from both wholesale and retail to redefine this working relationship.

Rental and once-worn

We retailers had all better hope that dancefloors are awash with spilt drinks, at least enough to trash the wedding dress, preventing it getting into the once-worn or rental market. However, we also know that the second look phenomenon, the short ‘dancefloor’ dress, is going to protect the first dress. The growth of Vinted and peer-topeer rental sites that are being enthusiastically adopted by Gen Z and beyond pose future threats that I don’t fully understand yet.

5 EASY WINS

1 Think beyond Gen Z

Do not base your growth projections on Gen Z, acknowledge the reality of Gen Z. In my unscientific quizzing of my 24-year-old son: “Weddings are hope, a belief in the future and happy lives but my generation are terrified and anxious and I don’t know a single person whose parents had a happy marriage. The modern dating scene is not about getting married, it’s a relic of the past.”

Cheery... However, we all know first-hand that 50 is the new 40. JLo is the poster girl for 50-something brides. Commit to age inclusivity, for the first-time brides in their 50s, for the unapologetic second, third or fourth-time bride and you increase your target audience.

2 Size inclusivity

There has always been a lack of commitment to size inclusivity in mainstream brands, and as much as Curvy Brides Boutique makes for good TV I would not wear a single thing on their racks.

We, the retail bridal trade, are currently being annihilated by a wedding photographer called Hannah The Fat Bride on TikTok. Hannah is gaining traction, and although I disagree wholeheartedly with much of what she says, she does make some very strong points.

Specifically, I disagree that bridal shopping as a leisure experience is a human right...

However, the continued existence of a fat tax on plus size dresses is outrageous as is the inability to sample above a 16. This also would help counter the rental, budget and once-worn threat.

As we in the trade know, women do not scale by increments of 2”. Offering an expert made-to-measure dress that considers that someone who is a five-foot size 24 is going to have a vastly different set of needs from a sixfoot size 24 delivers the ultimate customer service. Indeed, someone that has a size 24 bust like me and a range of 14/16 other body parts is not well served by the ‘buy for the

biggest measurement’ culture.

Positive in store experiences and brilliantly fitted dresses that celebrate all female forms should be at the core of our philosophy.

3 Religious, conventional, traditional

Drop the millennial speak – the ‘rock’ this and the ‘squad’ that, acknowledge that some of our best customers are the most conservative – huge emphasis on the small ‘c’. Committing to monogamy, legalising a relationship, wanting faith-based ceremonies and fulfilling cultural expectations are not the coolest of aspirations but witness the Mukesh Ambani and Radhika Merchant wedding. It makes a Royal wedding look cheap.

In the thirty-six years of Miss Bush, I have witnessed a seismic cultural shift but if you are targeting the smallest viable audience that you need for your business you need to talk directly to that client. I am not addressing budget brides, boho brides, sexy brides, I have a key psychographic and our vocabulary and visuals are for them alone.

Know your tribe, do not try and be all things to all brides. Talk only to these clients, do not generalise and do not fantasize about a client that will never cross the threshold.

My store is an extremely easy journey out of London, but some brides still feel like they are off to Mordor. Therefore, my East London looks are few and far between, but my SW clients are well catered for.

4

Be more fashion

Some of the bridal accounts I love to stalk on Instagram are Wed Studio, Roisin Pearce, Simone Rocha and Maticevski. I also love our labels Sophie et Voila and Nortier. These brands represent groundbreaking style for the fearless bride as opposed to the identikit body-con-sexiness that passes as fashion.

In truth, most of the looks are not commercial for mass market and won’t be worn by anyone other than the brave few. But it is this brave few, the early adopters and the champions of style that are unlikely to shop at an Outlet, Wed2Be or any other mainstream offering. It is the brave that will take a look, bring it to Instagram and move the dial.

On this subject, time and again, I can’t tell you how bridal shop windows damage the perception of our trade. A window should be a thoughtful extension of brand values and hint to the experience within. Most bridal shop windows scream: “Fashionable people keep walking, there is nothing for you in here...”

5 Bring back expertise

It is difficult to recruit good fitting staff, they rightly demand excellent money, and it is difficult to explain to brides why they need to pay for this additional service.

It is hard to make this service profitable, it eats up floor space, it eats up sales space, and storage of wedding dresses has zero capacity to make money and increases insurance premiums. However, it is the opportunity to add value, create

a deeper relationship and understanding with your client that gives you a USP at the point of sale and allows added value accessory sales.

There are many occasions when I have envied trade friends that have jettisoned their fitting services but retaining them gives Miss Bush a point of difference that is unique, rare and valuable.

I understand that this is financially impractical for low margin dresses from the US and the southern hemisphere but if you go for product driven, low service sales there will always be someone to compete directly with you for that client. Having technical expertise in-house gives the Miss Bush stylists a real advantage both in product knowledge and delivery.

DIFFICULT QUESTIONS

Traditional retailers like Miss Bush days are numbered unless the number of bridal boutiques contracts to a sustainable number and there is some collective will to advocate for change. I suspect the viable number mid to high end bridal boutiques is equal to the amount of Wed2B stores, so around 60 nationwide.

In addition, the data is overwhelmingly pointing to the disappearance of weddings altogether. The Institute for Family Studies have a well-researched article entitled Marriage Is Disappearing From Britain (https://ifstudies.org/blog/ marriage-is-disappearing-from-britain).

In it, they discover “that marriage will all but disappear by 2062. Our research suggests that in 2062, one couple will get married for every 400 adults in the UK (0.52% of the population over 16) compared to one couple for every 100 adults today—a drop of more than 70% in two generations. That represents just 67,000 couples who will wed in 2062, compared to 213,000 couples in 2019.”

There is a glimmer of hope for boutiques like Miss Bush within this article, which discovers that the richer and more religious a couple are the more likely they are to get married. 2062 seems a long way off but it is only as far into the future as it is into the past when I started working for the family business. I am selling dresses to the daughters of previous brides from the late 80s and early 90s. If the data is correct, this will not be the case in 30 years’ time.

The questions we should be collectively asking ourselves as a trade is not whether the 90s drop waist takes in, but what we can do to consolidate our businesses and advocate for a streamlined, profitable bridal retail trade.

Let me put these questions to you and I am happy to host a Zoom or an in-person roundtable to discuss.

- Do your suppliers operate on a genuine partnership basis?

- Do your suppliers simultaneously operate a wholesale and B to C strategy?

- Do your suppliers offload their excess inventory into the outlet eco system?

- How flexible are your suppliers with size inclusivity and design changes?

- Where is physical retail thriving and how is it achieving this?

National Bridal Market, Chicago

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

Peter Grimes, of VOWS magazine, is our US correspondent. Here he discusses the importance of compassionate leadership

With all the turmoil hammering us daily in the news, we all need to be particularly sensitive and compassionate with our vendors, staff and clients/brides. You excel in creating a safe place, one in which the bride can distance herself from the non-wedding stresses affecting her mood and sensibilities… a retreat of sorts that is even more difficult, frustrating and critical today as those outside issues compound the bride’s inability to make a final decision.

But the concern is that those worries and frustrations and distractions also impact you, your manager, your stylists and your staff, and can inadvertently leak out in body language, tone of voice or choice of words.

staff, clients and ourselves.

Three medical professionals recently wrote about the impact of compassionate leadership within the medical field in an article published last year in the Harvard Business Review entitled ‘Leading with Compassion Has Research-Backed Benefits.’

Conclusions offered by Stephen Trzeciak, Anthony Mozzarella and Emma Sepal (based on research for their book Wonder Drug: 7 Scientifically Proven Ways that Serving Others is the Best Medicine for Yourself ) included this intriguing point:

To quote the Dalai Lama:
“If you want others to be happy, practise compassion. If you want to be happy, practise compassion.”

It is not enough, and not effective, to say flatly “leave those worries at the door,” or to utter the “everything’s going to be okay” mantra.

What is needed now more than in those dark COVID years is your leadership superpower… one that has proven to lower employee emotional exhaustion, absenteeism and improve employee retention, especially during trying times: authentic compassion for

“Researchers define compassion as an emotional response to another’s struggles that involves an authentic desire to help. It’s distinctly different from a closely-related word: empathy. Empathy is the sensing, feeling, detecting, and understanding component, but compassion goes beyond empathy by also taking responsive action. Think of it like this: empathy + action = compassion. When a colleague is going through a difficult time, meeting them in their time of need with compassion can be something they will never forget, and it deepens relationships.”

Also, according to their research: compassion has powerful beneficial effects for the receiver of your compassion, and also for you the provider.

“Among health care workers, showing more compassion is associated with less burnout. That is, compassion can have powerful beneficial effects not only for the receiver of compassion, but also for the giver,” according to the team of medical researchers. And although their study was of and in the medical field in the US, their research showed that these findings are accurate beyond health care “to everybody, everywhere”… hence the title of their book listed above.

Of course, bridal retail cannot be compared straight across to the pressures, stresses and potential burnout faced by those in the medical field, although it is in a similar dynamic. We are often in situations in which the emotions and stresses of our brides and from our brides can overwhelm, frustrate and (in some cases) serve as triggers for underlying fears and stresses and pressures we may be feeling ourselves.

But, no surprise, there is a caveat: the compassion you display must be authentic. Essentially, with compassion, motives matter.

“If you display kindness or compassion to others for strategic or selfish reasons,” they write, “you might as well forget it. Research shows that you have to be authentically altruistic – not strategically helping others or forced into it – or it won’t work.”

So how do we fine-tune this superpower of empathy and compassion authentically? Several suggestions:

Start small According to a John Hopkin’s study quoted by the authors, just 40 seconds of compassion can measurably lower another person’s anxiety.

Be thankful Research shows that gratitude is a central point of compassion. It helps us focus on others, which further motivates us to compassionately serve others.

Be purposeful Ask the right questions and avoid asking the wrong ones. When a colleague is struggling on a personal level, ask how you can support them. Not the “are you okay?” question.

See it Celebrate compassion within your boutique. When an employee goes ‘above and beyond’ to help a bride or co-worker, celebrate it with them.

Be mindful According to a University of Toronto study of everyday life, also quoted in the article and book, there are on average nine unique opportunities for compassion every day. Be mindful, aware of those opportunities for expressing authentic compassion. Doing so will change the arc of your bride’s day, impact your stylists’ anxiety, and affect how you feel about what you do so well.

The evolution of bridal trade shows... adapting to globalisation and changing trends

TTrade shows have long been integral to businesses seeking to showcase their products, network with industry peers, and attract potential customers. However, in today’s rapidly-evolving global market, the landscape of trade shows is undergoing significant changes. We spoke to Siegrid Hampsink, Event Director of European Bridal Week in Essen, about the importance of being ahead of time in the bridal trade show industry

aking a look at the market, we see that the trade show industry is undergoing a rapid transformation, characterised by the emergence of new trends and technologies that are reshaping the landscape of events, particularly within the bridal fashion sector. As the industry continues to evolve, it is essential for manufacturers and designers to remain ahead of the curve, embracing innovation and staying attuned to the evolving needs and preferences of their clients.

The traditional model of trade shows has evolved significantly in recent years, with a growing emphasis on creating immersive and experiential environments that offer unique value to attendees. In the bridal fashion industry, this shift is evident in the way exhibitors and designers are leveraging technology to showcase their

latest collections, engage with potential clients, and create memorable experiences that extend beyond the confines of a typical stand or display.

From digital presentations supported by AI to interactive digital catalogues, technology is playing a pivotal role in redefining the way bridal fashion is showcased and experienced at trade shows. By embracing these innovations, manufactures and designers can effectively differentiate themselves, capture the attention of a discerning audience, and ultimately drive business growth.

The

impact of future-driven developments

With the advent of digital platforms and virtual events –also within the bridal industry – traditional trade shows are facing competition from online alternatives.

Whether we combine physical exhibitions with virtual components to reach a wider audience and enhance engagement in the near future or not, there are certain things we need to focus on as these are leading factors for the bridal trade.

When it comes to the industry of ours, we need to be aware that this industry is a “people business” and that visitors not only want to see, but also want to feel the product they are purchasing. This may be a bridal gown, an evening dress, a suit, lingerie for the brideto-be, shoes or accessories – it will always be different for each buyer; having those products in their own hands allows them to compare the experience with that of an online buying event.

For us, as trade show organisers, getting the biggest bridal trade show in Europe off the ground, we know that personalisation is key. And this isn’t just the case for our exhibitors towards their clients who are our visitors. Keeping in mind that we are basically operating within a niche market, as trade show organisers we need to focus increasingly on tailoring experiences to the individual needs and preferences of all our attendees. From targeted campaigns to customised exhibition and visitor spaces, personalisation is crucial for maximising engagement and ROI.

imperative for us to actively listen to the feedback and insights of our exhibitors and visitors. By understanding the evolving needs, preferences, and pain points of stakeholders, we can tailor our approach to deliver more impactful and meaningful trade show experiences.

Drifting apart has never brought growth within challenging times. We need to remember that we are stronger when we are standing together.

Engaging in open dialogue with partners, exhibitors, and visitors not only fosters stronger relationships but also provides invaluable guidance for refining strategies, enhancing product offerings, and optimising the overall trade show experience. And that is what we do when it comes to European Bridal Week as it is our aim to support our exhibitors so they can also bring the best to the table for all trade show visitors. As trade show organisers it is our task to support the market as a whole, to create a platform that offers exactly that what the market is asking for. And therefore, we do listen to the market, and we learn, and we evolve. And that brings us ahead of the curve!

Why the importance of exhibiting at trade shows will not fade

Despite all challenges the industry is facing right now, exhibiting at trade shows will remain a vital component of business strategy for several reasons.

What personalisation means for United Fairs

As the trade show industry continues to evolve, it is

At United Fairs, we see the need of creating networking opportunities for all members of our industry; and that is happening onsite European Bridal

Week. This trade show – as so many others – provides a unique platform for businesses to connect with potential customers, partners, and industry influencers. Face-to-face interactions foster trust and rapport, paving the way for future collaborations and business opportunities. And that is where it all comes down to “people business” – we all need each other to grow.

And of course, if brands want to grow, participating in trade shows allows companies to enhance their brand visibility and credibility within their respective industries. A well-designed exhibition stand can attract attention and leave a lasting impression on visitors, attracting new clients whilst reinforcing brand recognition and recall.

What the industry needs for a successful future

Globalisation has opened up new markets and opportunities for businesses to expand their reach beyond domestic boundaries. We see that European Bridal Week as a trade show serves as an essential platform for companies to tap into foreign markets, forge international partnerships, and explore crossborder collaborations.

With the adoption of digital technologies in trade shows, we can facilitate seamless communication and collaboration across geographical boundaries. From mobile ticketing to real-time data analytics, digital technologies are driving efficiency and convenience whilst fostering ongoing relationships and collaboration.

In conclusion, the world of trade shows is evolving in response to the forces of globalisation, digitalisation, and sustainability. To remain competitive and relevant, trade show organisers and exhibitors must embrace change, innovate new strategies, and prioritise the needs of an increasingly diverse and interconnected global audience.

But in times of economic uncertainty or industry challenges, we also see that collaboration becomes even more crucial. By joining forces, companies can leverage collective strengths to address common issues such as declining foot traffic at trade shows, shifting consumer behaviours in the fashion sector. Through strategic partnerships and alliances, businesses can navigate challenges more resiliently and capitalise on emerging opportunities with agility. Drifting apart has never brought growth within challenging times. We need to remember that we are stronger when we are standing together.

While pursuing individual agendas is essential for business success, embracing a future of collective success requires a shift towards a more collaborative mindset. Companies that are willing to explore new strategies, embrace partnerships, and prioritise industry-wide progress over narrow interests are poised to thrive in an increasingly interconnected and competitive environment. Collaboration has always been driving awareness and action towards developing groundbreaking solutions, introducing fresh perspectives, and pushing boundaries that may not have been achievable in isolation.

And that is also what we are aiming for whilst organising European Bridal Week 2025.

A bright future for the trade show industry

The future of bridal trade shows will be characterised by a convergence of technology, sustainability, and personalised experiences. By embracing these trends, we as organisers together with our partners and our exhibitors can create compelling events that resonate with attendees and drive positive outcomes for everybody attending the show, attending European Bridal Week.

TEAMWORK TEAM SPIRIT

When working in a close environment with people who have different personalities, come from all walks of life and with different personal wants, needs, perspectives, vision, goals, motivations and aspirations, how do you ensure that everyone comes together as a team for the greater good of your business? Helena Cotter tells you how

We all work differently and take in information and learn in different ways and at different speeds. This is most evident when we think about schooling – pupils are not all at the same level in education. The onesize-fits-all approach in a massive classroom doesn’t work... and it certainly doesn’t work in bridal retail when thinking about communicating a message to a team.

Have a plan

When you stop to think about how you want your business run, with strategies, systems, techniques, selling, etc that you wish to or have put in place, it is up to you to ensure any staff you employ have everything they require in their tool box to enable them to work well, and easily and seamlessly put your

vision into practice whilst utilising their natural skill set and input along the way. Therefore, it is vital to tap into what makes any staff you employ tick.

When trying to get the most out of your team and importantly in order for the team to get the most out of their careers, you’ll need to find solutions which will benefit all of you.

In simple, basic terms, sales personalities can be categorised in different ways. Ways that you will, of course, recognise. There are those people who are motivated by money – they tend to be younger members of a team and will be appreciative of financial incentives. Commissions, percentages of sales, etc.

For older members of a team, they’ll probably be more receptive to recognition and not necessarily, or wholly, financial rewards. Simply

knowing they have done a brilliant job and are recognised for it will be enough.

Then of course all rolled into one are the people who are motivated by getting the sale, the buzz of success. They’ll want goals to work towards and exceed. They are hungry for it.

There are sales staff who will want to give everything to an appointment, irrespective of whether or not the customer buys anything. As far as they are concerned, all important is that the customer has a fun experience. They may therefore let appointments overrun and the customers/guests take charge. They’ll probably not sell on the first appointment. You may find, though, that they sell on the second appointment with their brides. This personality type tends to be more cautious.

Often, the way a sales person

approaches a customer is based on how they themselves choose to shop. With this in mind, you’ll probably need to employ an outside sales trainer/business coach who can effectively teach a room full of different people as mentioned above, and crucially, work one-onone with any member of staff who may need extra help or guidance. My clients often say it is great to have an outsider working with them and their staff because it takes the pressure and focus off of them, ie they are not the bad guy.

Matching staff personalities to customers

It can be hugely beneficial to both customers and sales people if they are evenly matched, personalitywise, where at all possible. Nononsense customers will be looking for the same in a bridal consultant and will probably become irritated if the sales person isn’t that way inclined.

I remember some years back during an observation Saturday, a bride said she’ll buy the dress, straight off, no messing, let’s go. The bridal consultant said to her: “Are you sure?” Oh dear.

Then there are the bridal consultants who are quiet and shy and will want to work with someone who is like them. They may feel intimidated by confident brides and guests. So matching your consultants to a bride’s personality can be successful if you are able to do so.

A word of caution though, all bridal consultants should have the skills necessary to be able to work with any personality and age of customer. None of us wants to be a one-trick pony! Again, training will help with this.

Where possible, customers should see their original bridal

consultant for any subsequent appointments. Building rapport and a good relationship with your brides/ guests, and of course, consistency of service and care is of paramount importance in any sales position.

Bridal retail is no different. In fact, it is probably more important given what is being asked of you and any bridal consultant to try and achieve in under two hours, at what can be described as an intimate appointment.

Most retailers – non bridal – usually just go through the motions. We all see it whenever we go shopping. Lack of training, enthusiasm, frankly the inability to communicate, and the wrong hire seem prevalent in these companies. A canny business person recognises that the large corporations with their big budgets need to take a good hard look at their practices. It makes what you and your team aim to deliver 100% of the time all the more special... and something you should be very proud of.

Getting the message across

As mentioned earlier, all of us are different. I often speak to retailers who say they’ve asked XX to complete XX tasks/jobs many times and either it isn’t done at all or repeatedly not completed properly, or is forgotten about. For the business owner and possibly other staff members, that can become very frustrating.

This is mainly because the message has become opaque and confusing – or rather the delivery of it has. Repeating something over and over again has rendered it ineffective. It is vital then that different personalities are acknowledged and taken into account. Adopt an approach which best fulfils the needs of that individual member of

staff – and is one they can fully understand in their preferred way of communicating.

Regular meetings

I am a firm believer in the power and importance of regular meetings; an appropriate day and time where any niggles can be ironed out and any problems or issues can be dealt with. That way, the team are able to move on and problems that have come up are not given the fuel to be able to fester, drag on and drag down your business.

It also prevents having to fingerpoint; issues can be dealt with in a generic way.

In summary

Today it is not so prevalent, but some years back there could often be a negative personality within a group of employees. This usually resulted in the destruction of harmony within the business and problems for other staff members, making it difficult for them to function normally and positively. Thankfully, I believe this is virtually non-existent today.

However, if you find yourself in that unfortunate situation, contact me for help. For reassurance, as always, everything you and I discuss is 100% confidential. I shall be developing an online course thatwill cover all of this and more, available in a few weeks’ time. DM me for details.

Always remember, you are the absolute best in retail. A beacon of light in the high street. Don’t be afraid to shout about it!

Helena Cotter

The Helena Cotter Training Academy T: +44 (0)1582 451238 M: +44 (0)7896 944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk

W: helenacotter.co.uk

SOCIAL MEDIA: GET IT RIGHT

With so many social media channels available, each having their own unique requirements, it can be confusing and overwhelming for many bridal retailers. Christine Skilton, owner of Love U Forever, is a highly regarded digital marketing expert, specialising in coaching and mentoring retail businesses

Social media options open the door to something akin to a conveyor belt in a dress factory, which consists of a series of steps, including design, sourcing fabric, cutting, sewing and packing. As a retailer, you have to navigate your business through social media platforms objectives and algorithms. The Facebook objective, for example, is to ensure users encounter posts that resonate with their interests and value. Your posts, therefore, have to be relevant to your ideal customer.

In order for you to navigate your bridal shop through each platform you must:

First: Have a business marketing plan with social media marketing goals, including:

• Knowledge of your customers

• The results your business needs to grow

• What your creative should be (must be relevant to your audience)

• When and where you are going to publish your posts

• What kind of promotion your shop needs

• How you are going to monitor and analyse the data

• What you are going to put in place to respond to questions and feedback across each network

Second: You need to understand each platform, its objectives and its relevance to your business. Make sure you align your business goals to each platform’s opportunity and benefits; the importance for bridal retailers on social media is huge.

Let’s look at the numbers

According to Global Digital Insights from DataReportal: in the UK from January 2024 there was 56.2 million social media users and 66.33 million internet users. Without social media, your business would not be able to reach, communicate or promote to

so many people at the same time.

Making social media work

Love U Forever Bridal first created a social media profile on Facebook in 2009, communicating with existing customers and attracting new ones. This was the best thing we did for business awareness; we have continued working with the platform as part of the growth and communication channel.

Let’s have a look at the social media objectives of a bridal shop, using a question and answer format to explain them:

Why did social media become so important to Love U Forever customer growth?

Social media became important to Love U Forever Bridal because it:

• Produces more website traffic

• Builds the foundation for strong customer relationships

• Communicates with existing and potential customers

• Keeps you in touch with your customers

• Helps get you to know your customers and suppliers

• Promotes your products/service to your audience

• Attracts more brides-to-be to your business

• Gains more appointments

• Increases sales and revenue

• Keeps you in touch with your suppliers’ promotions

• Encourages more people to your brick-and-mortar store

• Inspires current and new customers

• Increases business awareness

• Highlights happy customers

• Provides customer advice

Which social media tool did you use for your business?

There are so many tools available on social media that help your business cut down time and money including:

• Ads

• Posts

• Reels

• Videos

• Stories

• Scheduling

• Messaging

• Commenting

• Actionable Links

Which social media channels did Love U Forever Bridal use?

Before we even started to post we wanted to make sure that each of the platforms was right for our business. As a rule, the minimum number of platforms you should adopt is three. However, we found that each platform has its own benefits and own objectives.

We started our social media journey with Facebook, then added Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest. And we continued to add, using Google products – posts, stories, sites, etc.

What is your view on the importance of bridal retailers getting involved in social media marketing?

It is a must for bridal retailers to have social media as part of their business marketing plan. We took the decision to have Love U Forever Bridal business marketing plan entirely online. I also believe that social media marketing is one of the best things for your business awareness, engagement and communication. It helps customers to feel part of your business.

How did social media help Love U Forever Bridal?

Social media has become the door to our website and our store. It allowed us to promote what was happening in the boutique and, importantly, helped customers find us.

What are your top tips for bridal retailers?

• Collaborate with your suppliers

• Find your business voice - ie: show a clear logo and create engaging posts

• Know your customers and find

where they are congregating

• Create procedures and methods for communicating

• Use social media awareness and inspirational posts

• Promote your business identity and products and brand message

• There is so much more you can use social media for when it come to building your audiences. Use social media as a customer service tool

• Listen to what your customers have to say about your business

• Measure your performance from your social media activities

Who can I collaborate with on Social Media?

I created a Partner 100, a list of suppliers and businesses I would like to work with. This was one of the most important parts of my social media marketing plan.

Most big suppliers are working hard on social media and you should be part of that, because their customers are your customers. You are selling their dresses and they are in the best place to understand their bride. So make it a partnership. A friend once

said to me: “Do not ask what you can do for your supplier, but what your supplier can do for you”.

It’s a Win Win for your and your suppliers.

What are you top tips for growth on social media?

• Have a plan

• Include a butterfly method into your social media

• Ask questions on your social media

• Answer questions from your customers

• Create interesting posts

• Post frequently

• Post at the right time

• Understand the platform

• Understand your customer

• Understand your business, your goals and the results you achieve

• Post at the right time for each platform

What did you include in your plan?

We created a Customer Attraction Formula that would help us to consistently have a process to attract customers to our business. The formula includes four steps:

Step 1: Build - Have a plan to build your audience on social media. The more people you can talk to the more chances you have to convert them into appointments.

Step 2: Educate/Entertain - Create contents that educate and entertain your audiences.

Step 3: Engage - Engaging with your audiences and analysing your data will help you to grow your business on social media.

Step 4: Accountability - You need to Take Action, because social media is a great tool for your business success.

Social media is a robot, you have to consistently work on the plan, contents, engagements, continue learning from the data, and take accountability for your results. So, be a social media butterfly and take action to achieve the results you want...

christine@christineskilton.com / https://christineskilton.com TW

Retailers REAL TALK

We asked a number of bridalwear retailers how they are finding things in this new environment we are all getting used to. Looking at the labels they carry and the shows they visit give us an idea...

TWIA 2024 East Midlands Bridal Retailer Winner; Winner, Best Customer Service Bridal Buyer Awards 2024

Where: Matlock, Derbyshire, by appointment only

When opened: April 2021, post Covid

Labels carried:

Allure Bridals

Abella

Elysée Atelier

Wona Concept

Dama Couture

Enzoani Love

Trade events visited this year?

Harrogate Bridal Week, March

Bridal collective, Birmingham

Allure Bridals, Manchester

Have you taken on new suppliers this year, and what appealed to you about them?

Yes – we are looking at more exclusive designers. Wona Concept is one of them.

Your brides – are they arriving with a horde of friends?

Sometimes five+ but we stick to our appointment recommendations of three-four guests.

How many appointments on average before they say yes? One to two.

How far in advance of the wedding are they starting the dress search? 12 to 18 months before the wedding date.

Any idea what percentage are planning a destination wedding?

Around 70%.

What’s in demand, silhouettewise, fabrics, colours, etc?

Chantilly lace, classic fabrics, satin, ivory.

Are new brides arriving with a bit of knowledge gleaned online? Yes, they have found designers they love and particular dresses.  Are you selling accessories along with the dress? Yes, veils, shoes, underwear, accessories.

Your average gown price? £2,200

Where: Portsmouth, by appointment only

When opened: 32 years ago, in 1992

Labels carried:

Mark Lesley

Maggie Sottero

Rebecca Ingram

Sincerity

Gaia Bridal

White Rose

Trade events visited this year?

Harrogate Bridal Week. Have you taken on new suppliers this year, and what appealed to you about them?

White Rose because we had a lack of good plus size gowns with added structure.

Your brides – are they arriving with a horde of friends? We try to keep this to a minimum, and pre-warn them on an appointment confirmation email, limiting to two guests but occasionally this is ignored.

CREATIQUES BRIDAL BOUTIQUE

Winner, Quality Business Awards 2024

How many appointments on average before they say yes? I would say two but it depends on whether they have other appointments.

How far in advance of the wedding are they starting the dress search: We have seen an increase of two years, but a lot of venues are offering huge discounts for this year so we are seeing a lot of late brides for whom we have to clear our sale stock or check with our designers’ portals for availability .

Any idea what percentage are planning a destination wedding?

Around 40%.

What’s in demand, silhouette-wise, fabrics, colours, etc? Something light, small A-lines, sparkle tulle. We sell a lot of black and also blush.

Are new brides arriving with a bit of knowledge gleaned online? Most arrive with pictures from websites or they have been to another boutique to gain knowledge of shapes, etc.

Are you selling accessories along with the dress? We do very well with veils but hardly any tiaras or headpieces. Brides are getting very savvy ordering online from Chinese websites – spending no more than £5 for a crystal tiara.

Your average gown price? £1,500.

Winner, Guides for Brides Awards 2024

Where: Pangbourne, by appointment only

When opened: April 2021, post Covid Labels carried:

Allure Romance

Lillian West

Modeca

Wendy Makin and our private label, India George. Trade events visited this year?

Harrogate in March, The White Gallery in May, and have Harrogate in the diary again for September. Have you taken on new suppliers this year, and what appealed to you about them? Yes, we took on Wendy

Makin in February. We sell as many clean, chic and timeless plain fabric dresses as we do lace or sparkles, so the simple elegance of their designs really appealed to us. We liked the fact that they are still quite exclusive to the UK, and we got on great with their UK rep James.

Your brides – are they arriving with a horde of friends? We only allow a maximum of three guests (unless in very exceptional circumstances) as we feel that is plenty of opinions in one place!

How many appointments on average before they say yes? Always on the first or second appointment, but mostly the first.

How far in advance of the wedding are they starting the dress search? 12-18 months. We do carry a large OTP selection, so regularly cater for ladies with only a few months to go. Any idea what percentage are planning a destination wedding? Less than 20%.

What’s in demand, silhouette-wise, fabrics, colours etc? Fitted dresses that are either completely plain or have plain skirts with detailed tops and trains; A-lines with leaves and floral lace appliqués; colours such as sand or champagne and traditional ivory.

Are new brides arriving with a bit of knowledge gleaned online? Most of ours don’t know what style they are looking for and the ones that have Pinterest boards quickly realise they aren’t always helpful!

Are you selling accessories along with the dress?  Shoes, veils and jewellery, with veils the most in demand.

Your average gown price?  Around £1,800.

TWIA: Best Bridal Shop in East of England 2024; Bridal Buyer’s Best New Bridal Retailer 2022

Where: Sudbury, Suffolk, appointment only

When opened: July 2021

Labels carried:

Calla Blanche

Ellis Bridals

Hera Couture

House of Savin

L’amour

Rebecca Ingram

Sottero & Midgley

Trade events visited this year?

March Harrogate, Barcelona, and

heading to September Harrogate. Have you taken on new suppliers this year, and what appealed to you about them?

We have just taken on Hera Couture after Barcelona! We were drawn to them for their inclusivity, modern, yet romantic designs & strong brand ethos.

Your brides – are they arriving with a horde of friends? No, our suites only host up to four people (five in one space at a push!). So we are quite lucky that people bring only their best and closest people with them! How many appointments on average before they say yes? On average, two.

How far in advance of the wedding are they starting the dress search?

This varies quite a bit at the moment! Anywhere from two years to eight months!

Any idea what percentage are planning a destination wedding?

We do get quite a few destination brides, we would hazard a guess that maybe 40% are destination weddings (Europe, Caribbean and America being the most popular destinations). What’s in demand, silhouettewise, fabrics, colours, etc? Our brides are loving slim A-lines with clean lines, minimalism with subtle ruching and romantic touches and there’s the occasional bride loving

QUEEN BEE BRIDAL
SILK & MAPLE

Where: Tunbridge Wells, by appointment, with a £35 booking fee

When opened: February 1997 Labels carried:

Freda Bennett

Sabina Motassem

Suzanne Neville

By Watters Little White Party Dress Trade events visited this year: Harrogate in March. Would have gone to White Gallery and Barcelona, but my husband was in intensive care. Have you taken on new suppliers this year, and what appealed to you about them?

Suzanne is so popular it is challenging to find other labels to sit alongside her. We loved Freda Bennett as it is a British label at a more affordable price point. Sabina – a possible second dress or a very chilled wedding or a wedding abroad, which is happening much more often since Covid.

By Watters Little White Dress –many of our brides were telling us that they were buying a second “fun dress” either for the after party, the night before, the day after or their hen do (or all four!). We had been stockists of Willowby for years so knew the quality and excellent customer service offered by both the US and the UK team so we went for it.

We’re achieving a good ROI so we will reinvest.

Your brides – are they arriving with a horde of friends? Praise the lord –No!! Our bride is usually with Mum and close family. Occasionally, she does the initial visit with ‘The Besties’ from boarding school or Uni. How many appointments on average before they say yes? At least two. Even though I was ace at getting a “Yes to the Dress” on a first visit, I think that even Randi Fenoli would find it mission impossible to get a “Yes” on the first visit with the bride of 2024. How far in advance of the wedding are they starting the dress search? Today, it’s 15 to 18 months and this is making it trickier to get a “yes” on the first visit.

Any idea what percentage are

planning a destination wedding? 20%. We have an amazing wedding coming up at The Marbella Beach Club with private jets galore. What’s in demand, silhouettewise, fabrics, colours, etc? Always ivory. Sillhouette – could be anything apart from a severe fishtail. Splits are popular right now. And in fabrics, crepe and mikado are loved..

Are new brides arriving with a bit of knowledge gleaned online? They understand lead times which is one of the reasons they are coming in over a year before their wedding.

Are you selling accessories along with the dress? Veils yes (many bespoke) but very few head dresses. Some earrings.

Your average gown price?  Around £3,500.

splashes of pastel colours.

Are new brides arriving with a bit of knowledge gleaned online?

This really varies from bride to bride. Some brides diligently do their research – whether that’s reading blogs or website FAQs but some brides arrive with a completely blank slate.

Are you selling accessories along with the dress?  This is a toss up, I would say 50% of the time, the brides want to wait until they’ve had their hair trial to play with accessories but sometimes they do buy the complete look then and there.

Your average gown price?  Around £2,200.

BREAKING UP

There comes a time in every business when you must part ways with a long-term supplier. It’s never easy – akin to breaking up with a longterm partner – but sometimes, it’s necessary for the health and growth of your boutique, says Sue Lovell

Having your own bridal store means maintaining harmonious relationships with suppliers. We get to know the reps, the head office staff, and we understand the way they work, and we know what to expect. But whether it’s due to quality issues, cost concerns, or simply outgrowing each other, there could come a time to sever connections.

Here’s my own little guide on how to break ties gracefully, all the while keeping your poise and professional charm intact.

Assessing the situation: is it really time to say goodbye?

First things first, you need to be sure that ending the relationship is the best course of action. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t end a marriage over who left the toothpaste cap off, right? Similarly, make sure your reasons for ending the supplier relationship are substantial and not just a hiccup. Can you talk it over?

List your reasons:

• Quality decline: Has there been a noticeable dip in the quality of their products? Brides are meticulous, and the last thing you want is to offer subpar gowns.

• Cost increases: Are their prices creeping up while your margins shrink? It’s a tough market out

there, and every penny counts.

• Service problems: Are deliveries consistently late, or is customer service unresponsive? In the fastpaced bridal industry, reliability is key.

• Evolving needs: Maybe your boutique’s style has evolved, and their designs no longer align with your vision, reflect your ethos (you are heading more into sustainability), or you’ve just seen your sales plummet.

If any of these issues have been persistent and unresolved despite your best efforts, it might be time to consider new options.

Now, assuming you’ve decided to move on, the next step is planning your exit strategy. Breaking up is hard to do, but with a little finesse, it doesn’t have to be messy.

Before making any sudden moves, do you want a replacement partner, or do you need time to be independent for a while, and heal. If you know you want to move on, ensure you know what potential replacements are available, and that you understand what they would require of you. This isn’t a rebound relationship, but rather a wellthought-out transition.

Attend trade shows (with or without Champagne-induced enticements, do they treat you well, give you gifts, give you a wild night

in a hotel?). Network with industry contacts, and do your research to find suppliers who can meet your needs. They need us as much as we need them, see what they will do to win your business – after all, you are in the market for a new supplier, and there are literally hundreds to choose from.

Check any existing contracts for termination clauses. Knowing the legal framework will help you navigate the breakup without landing in hot water. Are there notice periods to consider, are you paid up in full, and how many forwards orders are there? Will you be happy if a close competitor picks up the label? Understanding these will help you plan your departure smoothly.

The break-up – the dreaded conversation.

There’s no getting around it, but you can approach that conversation with professionalism and a touch of empathy. If it’s a long-term partner, that you know you can have a proper talk to, then pick a time when both parties can discuss things without interruptions. Avoid busy stands at shows, to start with, and significant industry events where emotions might run high when fuelled with a bit of fizz.

Channel your inner British sensibility: polite but firm. Explain your reasons clearly without being

overly critical. Focus on business needs rather than personal grievances, and leave the door open, you may want to return in a few seasons time.

But be honest, like in any relationship, if you have been dumped after ten years together, in a phone call with no reason or explanation, it is going to hurt and shows a lack of respect or appreciation for what has happened in the past. People in business or personal relationships need to have closure, and understand what has led to this situation, it is how we grow and move on, and know to look out for the signs next time. Respect costs nothing, but means everything.

• Quality and Reliability “We’ve noticed a decline in the quality of the gowns over the past few seasons, and it’s affecting our customer satisfaction and therefore sales are down. We have lost confidence in the product, which affects our ability to sell.”

• Financial Constraints:

“Unfortunately, the recent price increases are beyond our budget, and we need to find more costeffective options.”

• Evolution of Style: “Our boutique is moving in a different stylistic direction, and we need suppliers whose collections align with our new vision.”

Remember, this isn’t just about you; suppliers can benefit from understanding why they’re losing a client. Offer specific feedback that can help them improve, but keep it concise and professional.

One of my personal bugbears is a company I use who are so rude on the phone. I am sure they are busy and don’t mean to be, because it is the total opposite to how the rep is, but it puts me off phoning them, and makes me feel like they

really don’t want my business, whereas other companies are chatty and polite and identify who they are when they answer – I hate having to always ask: “is that Anne?”

Unlike in personal relationships, where this sort of thing is frowned upon, phase out the old supplier gradually while introducing the new one. This helps in managing inventory levels and avoiding sudden gaps in your stock. It also helps staff and customers get used to the idea that the end is nigh – but not yet.

Keep your staff in the loop. They should be aware of the changes, understand the reasons behind them, and be prepared to handle any customer questions or concerns that arise during the transition period.

Suppliers might react defensively or try to negotiate to keep your business. Stand your ground but remain polite. If they offer to resolve the issues that led to your decision, weigh their proposals up carefully.

It is important to hear what they propose, and if they want to keep you, they may come up with some very good ideas that will benefit you.  But if it involves you spen ding more money, then go with your gut.

Maintaining Professionalism

Even after the breakup, maintaining professionalism is crucial. The bridal industry is a small world, and word travels fast. It is very easy to let rejection turn into negativity, or because something didn’t work well for you, the blame can be put at their door, when the reality is that it just didn’t work out for either of you, and it was time to move on.

So don’t burn bridges. You never know when paths might cross again. Leave the door open for future collaboration, and avoid negative comm ents about the supplier to others in the industry, unless you really have had shocking service,

and have been very let down, in which case, it can be helpful to share your experience if asked.

Leave on a positive note

“While we are parting ways, we’ve appreciated the partnership and I’ll make sure I say hi at Harrogate.”  Every business relationship, good or bad, offers valuable lessons. Reflect on what worked, what didn’t, and how you can apply these insights to future supplier relationships.

Breaking ties with a long-term supplier is never easy, but it’s sometimes necessary for the growth and sustainability of your business. By handling the process with care, professionalism, and honesty, you can navigate this challenging situation smoothly.

And be prepared to be replaced, quickly - if you have broken off your relationship, you can’t sulk because you have been replaced with another store down the road. You don’t call all the shots, and you cannot have it all your own way, but it hurts to see an ex with a new partner, possibly younger and less experienced than you are. Don’t take it personally, smile and wish them all the best.

In the end, it’s all about ensuring that your boutique continues to offer the best for your brides. After all, every bride deserves her dream dress, and every boutique owner deserves suppliers who help make those dreams come true.

I think right now, that suppliers are understanding that it is a very hard time in retail globally and they are willing to listen to see what they can do to help us, but like any relationship, there are always two sides, you can always be replaced, and it has to be working for you both.

GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT

When you are face to face with a potential customer it can be very easy to end up becoming overly friendly. Not the best idea, says Helena Cotter

When we talk about being overly friendly, what does that actually mean? It’s not simply being motivated or full of enthusiasm – which we should always be – but rather being somewhat more than that.

There is a balance to be had between being the customer’s best friend and being pushy, or manipulative, as it’s known in the industry. I favour the mid-point, neither one, nor the other.

When I speak to clients old and new there appears to be a huge pressure to try and be everything to everyone. Particularly in an uncertain

market as the bridal industry right now. The last thing you want or need is the customers asking themselves and each other why you are being too friendly/overly friendly.

Customers may think: “What’s the catch? Are you being like that just to get my money; or until you have my money?” We all know in reality that is highly unlikely, but people being people, can become suspicious about someone’s motivations. At least to start with, until the ice is broken and their defences and preconceived ideas start to fall away. Being overly friendly can create and foster a lack of innovation and imagination (“I’ve always done it

like this, and it works for me so why change?”). This industry is a million miles away from where it was in years gone by, so it is wise to keep on top of how brides buy today, what they are looking for in you, and what they can expect when they come to your boutique. Similarly, you should know what you expect from them, within reason. Again, it’s all about balance.

Your approach to appointments

Reading your customers will help you decide which approach is best. Do they appear to need a little more reassurance because they are nervous and unsure, are they

independent and don’t want you to be overly friendly?

These things come into play when looking at how best to adapt your sales presentation to suit every single customer and their entourage where applicable.

Of course, we have the delights of social media and the dreaded thought of a negative review to contend with as well, which can affect approaches. Remember, customers can detect desperation and fakery so be careful to again get your approach right!

Often, because it feels easier to be liked, the balance can go awry. However, when you couple your delivery style with a rational (not emotional) perspective, it will – when necessary – give you the ability to say no and make difficult and sometimes unpopular decisions. It also sets out very clearly how you intend to run the appointment in terms of boundaries, etc.

We all want to be liked and most of us dislike and actively avoid confrontation. This is ok! We are all different and most of the time we would prefer an easy life. In reality, over delivering, being overly friendly and not being able to – or knowing how to – say no can disrupt the equilibrium and lead to problems further along this customer relationship. I am sure you all have stories and won’t forget certain customers from years gone by. Me also, from my days working on the shop floor.

In my many years of experience, when working with brides and their guests and many hundreds of retailers, I’ve found the more you offer and the nicer you are to them, they find it very easy to say no. As I say to my customers, being the bride’s best friend makes it very easy for them to say no to you because that is what they do with their friends. It’s what we all feel comfortable saying, isn’t it, outside of work.

This leaves you after an appointment questioning where it all went wrong. They were emotional about a particular dress, love you, love your shop and still say no. It is the old, old tale and something I was discussing recently with a client.

How much is too much?

Some years ago I had a client in England who was opening a brandnew bridal shop. She had had a bad experience when looking for and buying her own wedding dress and wanted to make the experience better for other brides. Nothing wrong with that approach, is there?

She wanted her customers to have all the whistles and bells that she felt were missing in her own bridal dress journey. Over delivering, complex systems, drinks, snacks, two-to-three-hour appointments, VIP appointments, no limits to the number of guests, try on as many dresses as physically possible, etc. It didn’t work for this new shop, unfortunately. Primarily because it was such a good experience for brides that they always went to that shop first for all the pampering but didn’t want to spend their money there. If this has been your experience now or in the past, you’ll know brides will often go off down the road to a boutique which doesn’t offer half of what you do and buy from there.

Change direction?

So, we question how much is too much in terms of delivering a first class service. My motto is “Know when good is good enough”.

This does not mean that you have to pare back or stop doing what you are doing, what you love to deliver, and what you’ve earnt your fabulous reputation doing. It just means you should be aware that when you make it so comfortable for your brides and are bending over backwards to keep them happy, not only do they not want to leave your

bridal boutique, which can cause log jams with other appointments, but what you have offered and all of you and your team’s hard work may not result in a sale.

At this point you may be thinking it’s not always about the sale, and I agree to a point. But ultimately though, you are in business and in business to make money as well as enjoying what is, after all, an amazing and unique industry.

Why do all the hard work and watch another business reap what you have sown? Some of my clients have stopped offering drinks, nibbles, extended appointment times, etc. I am on the fence with this.

As I say, I am not the bridal police so if this is what works for you, keep doing it. But if not, you may wish to trial other approaches.

Avoid being a doormat Customers can walk all over you. Demanding, not listening to reason, becoming irrational and all. Unfortunately, this can be a consequence of being too friendly from the get go. You’ve set your stall out and this is how the customer expects all of the encounters with you and your team to go from now on. The benchmark is sealed. It is incredibly hard to back-peddle and divert from your approach.

If you have to take off your toofriendly hat and replace it with your professional one during any appointments with such customers, it can be seen as a change of personality, which they will neither understand nor take to. It will make them feel uncomfortable and in that frame of mind, they simply will not buy their dress.

Having said that, I know for a fact you’ll always deliver the best you can within the parameters of what you consider is fair and balanced.

Good luck with getting that balance just right. Like Goldilocks, not too hot, not too cold, just right in fact.

ROMANTICA... A GROWING PORTFOLIO

Romantica of Devon has fast become the true collection of collections with the long-established Bari Jay joining the line up of highly successful brands that are meeting retailer and end customer wants

Leading the way for more than 40 years now, these are the names that have made Romantica an outstanding force in the industry – Romantica Bridal and Curve, Pure Bridal, Bridesmaids, Communion with Emily Grace and Chloe Belle, and the newly rebranded Luna and Ivy Proms Collections. And alongside those consistent winners are the US Mon Cheri labels – Sophia Tolli, Enchanting, and Martin Thornburgh for bridal, and Ellie Wilde and Colette Proms collections. Romantica boasts a team of designers including Sally

Waddington, Jennifer Gibbs and Jenny Whitcombe who take inspiration from the latest trends on the catwalks and from the classics styles. The Mon Cheri brands are the work of the exceptionally talented Sophia Tolli and Martin Thornburg who are renowned for their innovative styling and contemporary design.

With a network of 300 stockists here in the UK and around 100 throughout Europe and further afield, you get a clear picture of where this house is focused... and its offering is more attractive with each season.

Left: Style 2413; right: 2000
Style 2414
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“We love what we do and we always do more than expected,” says Kelvin Gibbs, Romantica’s MD. “We take great pride in the quality of our service. We’re ownermanaged – driven by creative passion and business integrity.

“And now we are proud to partner with leading bridesmaid and occasionwear supplier Bari Jay, which was first established in the 1970s, and stands as a pillar in the bridal industry, renowned for its exquisite bridesmaid dresses.

“Beginning as a small family venture, it has blossomed into a prominent brand, admired for its commitment to style, quality, and innovation. Specialising in bridesmaid fashion, Bari Jay has consistently adapted to the evolving trends of the bridal world. This focus has allowed them to perfect their designs, offering a wide range of styles that cater to various wedding themes and bridesmaid preferences.

“Throughout its history, Bari Jay has maintained its family business ethos, prioritising personal customer service and meticulous attention to detail. This approach, coupled with their dedication to inclusivity and sustainable practices, has cemented the Bari Jay reputation as a trendsetter, celebrated for both their

Left: Style 2414; right: 2415
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timeless elegance and modern sensibilities.”

Romantica will be showcasing its portfolio in Harrogate in September, and its team will also be visiting boutiques across the country for more personalised appointment, a brilliant opportunity for retailers to get to know the Bari Jay collection of 30-plus styles that go up to size 30. The new colour selection is stunning, from the pale and pretty to the rich deep darks, and fabrics include chiffon, mikado, crepe, velvet and a luxe stretch designed to flatter every curve. And as if style, colour palette, and fabric choices aren’t a big enough offering, the collecton offers a number of specific advantages – delivery of 10 to 12 weeks from order, and a discontinuation policy with at least two years, to name just two.

Design modifications are part of the story - and today, that’s a vital plus. Changes can be as simple as customised skirt lengths to complete neckline changes. “If we can, we will always go above and beyond to help our stores clinch that sale,” says Kelvin. And what about minimums? “As with any brand, retailers benefit from taking a minimum opening order. This is usually 12 pieces on our bridesmaid ranges, but we will always work with stockists as every store is unique,” he confirms.

enquiries@romanticaofdevon

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BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

8-10

SEPTEMBER

Ready for the Big Time? In the UK, in bridal, this is the event that makes a difference. It’s the retailer’s favourite and it includes brands that have chosen to show only once a year, so this is the chance a buyer cannot afford to miss. Watch out for all the detail in our next issue, but in the meantime, take note of the exhibitors to date and make appointments ahead of time

AAbella

Majestic Hotel

Adore by Justin Alexander

Majestic Hotel

All Who Wander

Hall D

Allure Bridals

Majestic Hotel

Allure Couture

Majestic Hotel

Allure Romance

Majestic Hotel

Amoré From

The House Of Nicholas Q11

Amy & Eve M22/23

Angel Forever A16/35

Angela Bianca Q0

Arianna Bespoke Q49

Art of Couture B34

Aruelle C65

Atelier by Monica Loretti Q0

Atelier Ricca Sposa A41

Avalia C20/42

Avec Amour by Très Chic M26

Avenue by Josephine Scott Q7

BBB Plus by Special Day Q5

Beloved by Casablanca Bridal M19/25

Bianco Evento C20/42

Boomba Q12

Bridal Sweet Wedding Ltd A11

Brighton Belle Q6

Brinkman by Très Chic M26

CÇağrı Şengül & Serdar Yüzer C62

Casablanca Bridal M19/25

Christian Koehlert C1/2

Claddagh Collection by Special Day Q5

Colette for Mon Cheri Crown Hotel

Couture Fashion Group B21a Couturiosity M7

Cupid C65

DDAMA Couture KS4

Dando London Q2

Daniela Di Marino Q0

Danielle Couture B25/39

Daria Karlozi Q21

Diamond Collection by Special Day Q5

Diane Legrand M37

Disney Fairy Tale Weddings Majestic Hotel

Dress 2 Party A39

Dressed Up by Veromia B36

EEddy K

C27/36

EDit Veils A37

Eliza and Ethan A44

Eliza Jane Howell B38

Ella Boo A1

Ellie Wilde for Mon Cheri Crown Hotel

Ellis Bridals KS1

Emily Grace Crown Hotel

Emma Bridals C16

Enchanting by Mon Cheri Crown Hotel

Envy by Phoenix Gowns B25/39

Essense of Australia Hall D

Essentials by True Bride Q6

European Collection by Special Day Q5

Evie Young A26/29

F

FP & Co M11

Frazer & James of Knightsbridge C10

Freda Bennet Q51

Freedom Bridal KS3

G

Gino Cerruti Bridesmaids C32

Gino Cerruti Prom C32

Gurbani A24/32

H

Halo & Co C71

Hermione Bridal C67/68

Hermione Prom C67/68

Hilary Morgan A34 Hoesh M5

Honora C53

Horrocks Vale Q36

Hot Contact Dress B28

I

I.nco A1

Ida Torez Q21

Ideal Veil M12

Isabella Communion Collections Q5

Island Bridal Curve M30

Ivory & Co M36

Izabella Tekstil A1

JJacqueline Louise C51

Jennifer Wren Crown Hotel

Jessica Couture A18

Jeune Bridal A26/29 JLM B12/28

Jora Collections C18 JTAA KS2

Jubilee Collection by Très Chic M26

Julietta M22/23

Jupon Petticoats B41

Justin Alexander Majestic Hotel

Justin Alexander Signature Majestic Hotel

K

Kelly Faetanini Q28

Kelsey Rose KS6

Koko Communion Collections Q5

L

Labella by Gino Cerruti C32

Le Blanc Collection M19/25

Lemteks M14

Lenovia Bridal C32

Lia Bella B31

Lillian West Bridal Majestic Hotel

Linzi Jay Accessories Q49

Little People A34

Lizabella A1

Loré B16/25

Loré Chic B16/25

Loré Mère B16/25

Loré Privée B16/25

Loré Soirée B16/25

Loré White B16/25

Louisa Jackson Bridal M9

Louise Bentley C29/31

Love by Ricca Sposa A41

LQ Designs London C17/45

Luna by True Bride Q6

MMade to Love by Très Chic M26

Madeline Gardener Couture M22/23

Madi Lane Bridal Group A26/29

Madison James Majestic Hotel

Maggie Sottero Queens Suite

Malina Bridal Q22

Martin Thornburg for Mon Cheri

Crown Hotel

Martina Liana Hall D Mascara C22/41

Maya Bella Bridal A2

Miabelle Q32

Michael’s Bridal Fabrics Ltd M1

Michelle Bridal, Plus Size M31

Mikaella Bridal Q41

Millie May Bridal C29/31

Miraclesuit C65

Miss Emily by Très Chic M26

Monica Loretti Q0

Monica Loretti Cocktails Q0

Monreal Bridal B12/29

Moonlight Bridal Q20

Morilee M22/23

Morilee Blu M22/23

Morilee Bridesmaids M22/23

Mybridal software M10

NNaomi and Nicole C65

Nicki Flynn by True Bride Q6

Nicola Anne Q27

Nicoletta C34

Nieve Couture C9

OOlivia & Rose C72

Omnisew M4

PPERLA by Halo & Co C71

Paloma Blanca Q41

Patricia Eve C65

Phoenix Gowns B25/39

Poirier B41

Pollardi Q21

Pro Omnisteam M4

Prom by Romantica Crown Hotel

Prom Collection by Special Day Q5

Prom Frocks B37

Propress C7

Pure Bridal Crown Hotel

Pure by Très Chic M26

RRachel Allan Bridal B15/26

Rachel Allan Flower Girls B15/26

Rachel Allan Prom B15/26

Rainbow Club M40

Rebecca Ingram

Queens Suite

Retail Bridalwear Association

KS0

Ricca Sposa C28

Richard Designs C48

Rings Majestic Hotel

Romantica Crown Hotel

Romantica Bridesmaids Crown Hotel

Ronald Joyce M20/24

SSecret Weapons C65

Serena Bridal Q0

Serene by Madi Lane A26/29

Sevva C70

Shane Moore B40

Silhouette Bridal Crown Hotel

Simply Divine B20

Sincerity Bridal Majestic Hotel

Sisterhood Bridesmaids A39

Sonsie by Veromia B36

Sophia & Camilla C6

Sophia Tolli Crown Hotel

Sottero and Midgley Queens Suite

Special Day Q5

Stella York Hall D

Sweetheart

Majestic Hotel

Sydney’s Bridal, Plus Size M31

Sydney’s Prom, Plus Size M31

TTania Olsen Designs A2

Tease Prom, Plus Size M31

Teresa Atelier B19

Thanks & Goodluck Majestic Hotel

The Empty Box Company C15

The Guest Edit by Miabelle Q32

The House of Nicholas Q11

The Perfect Bridal Company C24/40

Tiffanys Bridal Majestic Hotel

Tiffanys Bridesmaids Majestic Hotel

Tiffanys Prom Majestic Hotel

Timeless Bridal by Tiffanys Majestic Hotel

To The Nines M16/29

Très Chic Bridal Wear M26

True Bride Q6

True Bridesmaids Q6

True Curves Q6

Twilight Designs B1

VVal Stefani Q20

Veromia Occasions B36

WWarren York A40

Wedcova B6

Wendy Makin Q31

White Rose Bridal C29/31

White Studio London B24

Wilderly Majestic Hotel Wovn C14

IN CONVERSATION

Josephine Scott

Since introducing her own-name collection, Josephine Scott, founder and designer Josie Parkhill has been creating waves of excitement with her adventurous approach and highly individual designs. Here’s all you need to know about this brilliant talent

WT Did you study design and where?

JP I did a four-year Fashion Design and Marketing degree at the University of East London.

WT What was your first job in design?

JP I was a summer intern for John Charles.

WT When did you become interested in bridal?

JP I quickly realised that bridal design offered a creative avenue where drama, elegance and femininity were at the forefront…

Watching catwalks for the finale bridal gown, now that was inspiring, too!

WT Trade shows – what was you first experience and what impression were you left with?

JP My very first tradeshow was overwhelming and a huge reality check. I had a vision of luxury and beautiful stands… but instead found walls of metal with crammed gowns. However, there was a buzz! Every morning there were queues of retailers lining up to buy, with glamorous models changing as fast as possible to show off the latest styles as the salesmen tried to keep up writing orders. It was exciting!

WT The decision to launch your own label - what brought that on - was it a long-held dream?

JP I believe every designer starts their journey with the ultimate dream to one day having their own brand and owning their own designs. I have always been building towards this, learning and constantly pushing the boundaries to bring it together. Lockdown gave me time to think (alongside having a baby!), research and re-focus back to my dream, realising it was now or never!

WT How did you see and structure your entry into the market?

JP I wanted to bring back glamour, corsets and drama – uber feminine and focused on timeless, British style with a modern romantic twist… and that photography and marketing would be key to that alongside a premium product.

WT Did you know instinctively what sector you wanted to be in?

JP Having designed for a range of budgets, I knew this time I wanted to create gowns without compromise, using the best corsetry, luxurious fabrics and elevated design that was focused on timeless style rather than trends.

WT Did you see yourself as a designer brand or a general top-end supplier?

JP As the designer, creating unique gowns from sketch through to the final product, I always envisioned the brand as designer label.

WT Your first collection - how big was it and what were its special features?

JP The Debut collection comprised 22 pieces, with unique features to include elevated corsetry, soft romantic florals with a modern twist and an emphasis on pieces that looked designer, but with a commercial cut and shaping to fit real women.

WT How many collections are you doing a year and what size?

JP We currently create an annual collection for both the Josephine Scott and Avenue labels with some early previews.

WT Is becoming an international name a priority?

JP It is one of our long-term objectives.

WT Where are you finding your fabrics?

JP I source fabrics from a variety of leading, luxury suppliers across Europe, Japan and Korea to ensure the quality is premium and evolving.

WT How would you describe the Josephine Scott bride?

JP The Josephine Scott bride is one who has dreamed of her big day her whole life, she is not affected by current trends, but rather timeless elegance with an appreciation of quality and corsetry.

WT How are you promoting the label to retailers, and to brides themselves?

JP We are very personable with retailers, focusing on the boutiques we feel the brands align with for longterm partnerships. For brides we always try to engage emotionally, and working hard with our stockists and socials to create as many face-to-face opportunities as possible to meet them.

WT Tell us all about the 2025 collection.

JP The 2025 Josephine Scott collection has been refined. Focusing and evolving best-sellers, with new, exclusive fabrics, cuts and lots of exciting inter-changeable looks to allow boutiques and brides to adapt gowns for each bride.

Avenue will offer a slightly wider price point and focus on key silhouettes, with luxury fabrics in clean lines and exciting pieces that will engage with fashion-forward brides.

WT Do you get out on the road visiting retailers?

JP Our salesman Nicholas is often out visiting boutiques, and I, or a member of the team, try to visit each boutique as often as possible, either for designer days or training days.

WT Are the trade shows of today the way forward? If not, what is the best route for designers to adopt to get their message and product out there?

JP We have supported every bridal tradeshow in the UK the past couple of years, investing heavily into showing our support for British bridal events. As a small business, the costs of these shows with the stand price, staff, décor, hotels, meals, etc are becoming more and more excessive and time-consuming – with each almost costing as much in the way of resource as opening a new boutique.

Having attended Barcelona Bridal Week, you can see such a big difference in the quality of exhibitors, and the support given to their home country designers, which sadly is something I have felt the British shows lack and why I believe many British designers have pulled away.

Over the past six months, we have offered personable appointments at our new showroom, based at the exclusive Luton Hoo Hotel, where we can spend quality time with boutiques listening to their needs and treating them to a much-enhanced Josephine Scott experience. So far, the feedback from boutiques is that it is much preferred and premium!

WT Your RRP range?

JP Josephine Scott wholesale prices range greatly from £700 to £1,800; Avenue is priced between £400 and £980.

WT Your size range?

JP Both collections are available from size 4 to 24.

WT Will you modify designs on request?

JP Yes, this is a key USP of the Josephine Scott collection with a large percentage of boutiques and brides taking advantage of this service. I personally oversee every order to ensure the requests are possible and carried out accurately.

WT What extras, if any, do you offer - eg veils?

JP In both collections, we offer an exciting range of accessories to elevate, adjust and enhance all our gowns, including extra special veils to match each gown.

WT How many retailers would you like to be with in the UK?

JP For Josephine Scott, across the UK and Eire, we feel 25 would work well to give each retailer the opportunity to develop and satisfy their customer. For Avenue, because the collection is more commercial, we would like a network of, say, 40 stockists.

WT What do you/can you offer boutiques as incentive to become a stockist?

JP We incentivise stockists in a variety of ways. Most importantly, we listen to who they and their brides are, what they need and what we can offer to help them to achieve that. As a small business working with small businesses, we understand the different pressures.

WT Photography – what are you focused on?

JP Josephine Scott: Emotion – Drama – Timeless. Avenue: Modern – Exciting – Engaging.

WT Contact details for retailers wanting more info?

JP There are a number of ways. Contact me personally, by email at josephine@josephinescott.co.uk or Nicholas@josephinescott.co.uk

And follow @josephinescottlondon and @ avenuebyjosephinescott for daily updates and inspiration.

CLEAR THE WAY

Selling ex-sample wedding dresses can be a fast way to aid your cashflow and clear surplus stock, but it requires a strategic approach. Sue Lovell makes the suggestions

Every bridal boutique owner knows the bittersweet moment when a once-beloved sample gown needs to find a new home. These dresses, tried on by countless bridesto-be, or once so full of hope, but never even made it to a changing room, hold stories and dreams, but eventually, they must make way for new collections. It’s a necessary task, and can be hugely beneficial to your bank account while maintaining a bride’s

expectations in her appointment – it still needs to be a good experience but a more streamlined one!

Embrace the concept: ex-sample sales are not defeats

First things first, shift your mindset. Selling ex-sample dresses is not an admission of defeat but a smart business move. These dresses can be a treasure trove for brides on a budget, and your ability to offer them

at a discount price positions you as both savvy and considerate. It’s a win-win: brides get their dream dress at a fraction of the price, and you get to refresh your inventory and boost your cashflow.

To start, consider creating a dedicated space in your boutique for ex-sample dresses. This area should be separate from your current collections to avoid any confusion and to make the discounted dresses feel special in their own right.

Also, by having a dedicated sale rail, you can judge your bride’s budget and expectations without her having to say too much. Often a bride will say her budget is something she hasn’t thought about, and qualify that by saying that it is just about finding the right one. Then, an hour later, and falling in love with an £1800 dress, she admits that £800 was more of what she was thinking.   By having a sale rail, you can instantly tell she is open for a bargain, but make it clear that bargains come at a price – meaning they are paid in full. I am finding more and more that brides want the budget dress, but still want to pay a deposit and spread the cost over a few months, and still have numerous appointments to visit the dress whilst paying for it. Cash flow and layaways are not always good bedfellows, you can end up storing the stock you were trying to get off your rails, and waiting months for the payments to trickle in, whilst taking up valuable appointment space with return visits.

• Timing is Everything: Schedule your sample sales during quieter periods, such as the off-season months. This can bring in traffic when footfall is usually lower.

• Exclusive Previews: Offer VIP previews for followers or email subscribers. This not only makes your regular followers feel valued but also creates a sense of urgency and exclusivity.

• Promotional Hype: Build anticipation with a countdown on social media and email campaigns. Tease with sneak peeks of the gowns that will be on sale.

In this digital age, your boutique needs an online presence that dazzles. Utilise your website and social media to highlight your ex-sample dresses.

Update your website

• Create a dedicated section: Have a specific section on your website for ex-sample dresses. Include highquality photos, detailed descriptions, and clear pricing.

• E-commerce integration: If possible, allow brides to purchase directly from your website. This convenience can significantly boost sales, but also remember the distance selling rules, and make sure you list any defects, loose threads, etc, and photograph everything before it leaves you. Protect yourself from unscrupulous scammers, as they are a growing band and get bolder all the time.

StillWhite and Vinted are popular ways of moving on sample stock too, but often we want quick sales, quick turnaround, and a knowledge that returns and exchanges are not accepted - which is not what is available selling via these routes.

• Engaging content: Post photos and videos of the ex-sample dresses on platforms like Instagram and Facebook. Stories and reels showing the dresses being tried on or styled can generate excitement.  If you have staff having some down time, get them in the

dresses; TikTok and reels, and photographs of them in everything, with accessories – make it count.

• Live sales: Consider hosting live sales on social media. This interactive approach can attract viewers and turn them into buyers on the spot.

Discounts delight

Everyone loves a good deal, and brides are no different. Offering incentives can make your ex-sample dresses even more enticing.

Start with smaller discounts and increase them as the sale progresses. This encourages early purchases while still allowing you to move older stock later.

Offer discounts on accessories when purchased with an ex-sample dress. This not only helps sell the dresses but also moves other older inventory.

Thinking outside the boutique

Explore hosting pop-up shops or collaborating with other businesses. I work with other BrideCo members, having regular sample sales in hotels, where we work together to sell our dresses, all under one roof. These events are fun and fast, and the brides we attract understand that the dresses are there for that day only, at that price for a quick sale, and it is a no-frills appointment. It appeals to brides on a budget, and ones who do not feel comfortable with going to a bridal store. Once there though, we can often convert those brides into understanding that bridal shops are not scary places, and can often book appointments for them to visit our own stores at a later date, too.

Partner with Venues: Collaborate with wedding venues, bridal fairs, or hotels to host your sample sales. This can attract brides who are already in the planning stages of their wedding. Team up with other wedding vendors, such as florists or photographers, to create a comprehensive bridal event. Brides love one-stop shopping experiences, and this can be a big draw.

Even when selling ex-sample dresses, the customer experience should remain impeccable. Your goal is to make every bride feel special, regardless of the price tag on her dress.

When we hold our Pop-up events,  we still give the bride time to see herself in lots of dresses, give her opportunity to try on different styles, but we do make it clear that the dresses are there to be sold, and if they want the complete experience, at the full price, we encourage them to book in to our stores, but if they want a great experience and a bargain, then Pop up shops are excellent. Often, they are a communal atmosphere, too, where the brides encourage and complement each other, it is lovely to see.

We have a great following, and our brides give us ideas as to where to have the next pop-up event. But ultimately, our goal is to sell as many dresses as we can, and it is very hard work to take enough stock to

make it worthwhile for brides to visit, and manage expectations, as you will be bringing back dresses, too!

Assess the audience

You also need to be able to spot the time waster, and the Dress us Doris, who is having a fun day out with mates – her dress up time is costing you money and losing you sales. She wants her moment... gift it to her but be ready to move her on for the bride who does want to buy. There is no shame in asking for the sale, and making it clear from the outset that the dresses are there to be sold – and that you intend to sell them.

We still get the ‘coffee shop bride’ who tries on lots, says yes to one, then pops off to the mythical coffee shop to discuss it all – never to be seen again. But these events are designed to move stock, so don’t hold anything. Encourage the notion that once it is gone, it is truly gone, and get your selling head on.

We had a comment once that we were obviously going to be hard selling – I rebutted this by saying we were there to sell dresses to brides who wanted to buy – not there to find a style, or help a potential customer find a style to buy online cheaper. The message was that we are cheaper and there to help you BUY your dream dress. There is no shame in that.

We are what we say we are, sample selling at discounted prices; don’t come for a day out, but come for a bargain dream dress.

We have had a steep learning curve, and whilst we want to give a good experience we aren’t fools. We had one bride who said yes to the dress, with her mum, took videos of herself saying yes, spent 20 minutes choosing a veil, and the entire room was cheering her on.

When we had the dress bagged up and ready they were making a hasty exit – it turned out that they didn’t have any money for a dress (and it wasn’t even clear if there was a wedding); they just wanted the moment. All very lovely, but not when it costs us time, money and space; we are lovely ladies, but we are not there for a free experience, the whole purpose is to sell as many dresses as possible, the frees come with a potential purchase – there needs to be an intention to buy if the dress is found.

The right formula

Offer appointments for brides interested in ex-sample dresses. This makes the experience more intimate and special, but give them a set time, 45–60 mins max.

Provide styling advice and help brides understand the alterations that would be required, the price they should expect to pay for alterations, and offer tips on how they can make the dress uniquely theirs.

Ensure all ex-sample dresses are cleaned and in good condition. Minor repairs or alterations should be done before the sale to make the dresses more appealing. But always explain that the price reflects the

condition. Be upfront about the condition of the dresses, including any flaws. Honesty builds trust and ensures that brides know exactly what they’re purchasing.

Satisfied brides are your best advertisement. Encourage brides who purchase ex-sample dresses to leave reviews and testimonials. I have to be honest, and say we do struggle with this, as so many brides do not want to admit that they purchased a bargain dress. We have had wonderful testimonials, but not many brides want to share their photos as they want their guests to be unaware that they had a discounted wedding dress. We are working on this, but it is a work in progress still.

Finally, like any good plan, flexibility is key. Monitor your sales and adapt your strategy as needed. Keep track of which dresses sell quickly and which linger. This can help you adjust pricing and promotions.  Gather feedback from brides about their sample sale experience. Use this information to improve future events.

Stay Updated

• Industry Trends: Stay updated on industry trends to ensure your pricing and promotional strategies remain competitive. Drop the price of older stock to get it gone – it damages your rails to have very old styles there, but a £100 bargain can be updated by a bride, and it’s off your rail. I have seen brides love a £600 dress, but the old  £100 dress is too much of a pull, even if it is not the right one, the price is right, and that is what matters to them.

• Continuous Improvement: Regularly review and refine your sales approach; keep it fresh and effective.

• Don’t let it be a free fall: Give the same care and

attention to your dresses and customers as you do in the boutique. Show your brides that you care for your dresses, and ask them to do the same. Have enough staff to get brides dressed, put away stock, and keep the rails stocked and looking good.

Also, don’t limit yourself to brides – open up these days to budget boutiques and online sellers, who want to purchase dresses to sell on. Sell in bundles of four, eight and 12, never just one or two.

Bulk buyers clear stock quickly, and pay in full there and then, so be prepared to discount further, but only on bulk purchases. Book them in for just before the doors close to maximise your own sales first – then have dresses ready to go at a bulk discounted price.

There are also groups and companies that will buy surplus stock – you won’t get much for your stock but it is quick and in bulk, and sometimes it is better to just let it go and think of the cash in the bank and the space on your rails. Move on!

Get results

Selling ex-sample wedding dresses is an art that combines business acumen with a touch of creativity. By embracing this practice with a strategic, customerfocused approach, you can boost your cashflow, clear surplus stock, and create happy, satisfied brides. And remember, whether it’s an exclusive sale event or a spontaneous pop-up shop in a trendy (or not so trendy) location, the key is to make it an experience that brides will cherish – because every bride deserves to feel special, even when she’s snagging a bargain.

And every shop owner deserves to get a return on the investment she’s made, and sometimes selling a sample off cheaper is the only way to achieve this.    TW

MENSWEAR TRENDS

In the past few turbulent years - with the pandemic, the cost-of-living crisis, and this year, a snap General Election - attitudes in the industry have varied from the comforting: “couples will always want to celebrate their special day”, to the rather more imaginative – Vogue, for instance, predicted that brooches as gifts for groomsmen might become a ‘thing’ and that drone displays could replace traditional fireworks. Jill Eckersley looks around

Wedding venues are changing, too. Couples looking for ‘something different’ can marry abroad, or hire a Cornish beach, a vintage boat, or a country barn. Changes in the law means that today’s couples have a far wider choice than simply ‘church or registry office’ - and the formality or informality of a venue must influence the choice of outfit for both bride and groom.

So just how much are trends in menswear changing? Wedding Trader has been asking the experts, including Andy Roberts, UK agent for the long-established German brand Wilvorst. Founded as long ago as 1916, in 2018 the company added ‘green’ weddings to its extensive portfolio, featuring more natural and sustainable fabrics.

Trends in groomswear are changing all the time, as Andy explains. “Very much so,” he says. “The traditionalstyle wedding where tails are worn in a church ceremony has become (sadly in my view) a very small part of our business. There are, of course, some parts of the UK, such as South-East England, where this tradition still remains strong. There is a slightly more relaxed feel to many wedding ceremonies and outfits are chosen accordingly.

“Probably about 50% of today’s grooms want to buy their own suit, with the rest of the party hiring - although of course it can be very difficult to find the right styles for seven or eight blokes who may be very different in shapes and sizes!

“Grooms have become quite selective in individualising and tailoring their suits. Colour, of course, is very important, with green being very much the fashion shade of the day. Beige/sand is also very popular, followed by royal blue or navy. We have seen some influence from

America in the popularity of dinner suits in plain black or navy, with velvet and brocades also being very popular.

“Style-wise, two-button is very strong - a single button for dinner wear, in a slim-line cut. High fashion is showing some double-breasted styles, but we find this is still a very small percentage of the marketplace. Lapel width seems to be getting slightly wider, with shoulders being rather more relaxed. Comfort on the big day is so important!

“Made-to-Order is also very strong now. A groom can choose his favourite style, fabric, lining, buttons… and sometimes monogramming with the names of the couple and the date of the wedding. Of course, a madeto-order suit is generally more expensive - although it is still only a fraction of what the bride will be spending!

“Budgets in these tough times will always play a part, which is why it’s important for companies to stick to what we are good at rather than changing course. In tough times, last-minute bookings for weddings on the menswear side are common so having a good stock service is paramount. There is always competition, whether from the High Street retailers or those

specialising in dress hire, so you have to be ahead of the game in what you have to offer - and this is our business!”

Mainland Europe differences

At Wedding Trader we noticed that groomswear did not feature very much at Harrogate this March, although European companies were very busy at European Bridal Week in Essen, Germany.

“For menswear, Harrogate is not important as a trade show,” said Andy. “The timing is all wrong! Both March and September are too late. The dates for menswear manufacturers to start looking at exhibiting at Harrogate once more would need to be the end of January or beginning of February, and end of June or beginning of July. Menswear also has to be well promoted by the organisers for this to happen. European Bridal Week in Essen is an important show for Wilvorst and for European customers, but isn’t strong for the UK.”

For another perspective, we spoke to Stephen Bishop of Woking-based Stephen Bishop Suiting, a company known for providing service, professionalism and quality to grooms and groomsmen. What changes has he seen

STEPHEN BISHOP

in grooms’ choices for their special day?

“Dinner suit weddings are really, really popular this year,” he told us. “In my 30-plus years in the business, never have I seen such a shift of any kind, let alone a shift towards evening wear and tuxedos. Normally, a trend will be sparked off by a celebrity or something ‘out there’, but I haven’t seen that this time and can’t explain why it has happened! This year we are looking after more than 50 weddings in tuxedos - as many as we have seen over the past ten years in total!

“Perhaps the changes in venues, or the fact that weddings are now spread over several days of the week - as opposed to Saturdays only - has created this change? Of course we are aware of other trends in Europe and elsewhere, but here I am definitely witnessing a shift back to more formal set-ups with tails on the increase and fewer requests for tweed or other looks.”

Stephen also feels that the fact that the industry is still regrouping after the Covid problems means that fewer companies are showing at exhibitions such as Harrogate.

“A lot of firms seem to be playing safe with colours and styles, and using stock service to buy when required, rather than risking forward ordering. Many buyers feel they don’t need to see new ranges or can use the stock services online.”

With his company’s emphasis on personal service and professionalism, Stephen doesn’t feel threatened by competition from the High Street, either in sales or rentals.

“We independents must - and do - offer a special, personal service,” he points out. “Unlike the national setups where clients have, in essence, to ‘help themselves’, we really can offer them a better experience. A Moss Bros which opened in our town several years ago actually helped our business as we could offer a much more personal service. It’s not that the nationals are failing, just that they are set up differently. Plus, I feel that people are now much more wary of using the Internet for important purchases. Going ‘touchy-feely’ in a shop usually means better value by way of a better end product.

As for clients’ budgets being affected by the cost-ofliving crisis, Stephen says that he has always pitched at a higher-end market.

“You might think that if the economy is tough, more prestige or expensive products or services would take a bigger hit. Not so in 2024, here at Stephen Bishop Suiting. There was definitely a shock when the Ukraine War started and substantial increases in the price of fuel impacted everyone. However, for us, that only delayed orders as opposed to seeing them disappear altogether.”

THE HELENA COTTER TRAINING ACADEMY

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"Helena will always go above and beyond for her clients and is happy to give advice on any situation, however unusual. This, in our view, sets her apart from others within the industry. We cannot recommend her enough.”

L’ETOILE WOW-factor in this glittering Emi gown in beaded lace with 3D mikado and organza floral appliqués. Detachable off-shoulder straps and basque waistline make it the perfect gown for the brides who want to look like an absolute princess.

THE BRIDAL COLLECTIVE HIGHLIGHTS

The latest looks from Enzoani, ÉLYSÉE, PEN·LIV showcase unique aesthetic and signature design elements. And there’s a new label to celebrate, too. Portrait promises to be another star number

BLUE BY ENZOANI is designed by Artistic Director Kang Chun Lin and focuses on meaningful details and clean lines. Sage, from this 21-piece, is a favourite of ours. A great combo of beaded floral appliqués, geometric beaded lace, and glitter tulle.

Artful draping, 3D floral embellishments and versatile detachables – from straps and overskirts to capes and corsages – have come together in the Bridal Collective’s new ranges to create a deliciously different bridal vision.

New to the portfolio is Portrait, designed to deliver a stunning and size-inclusive collection of gowns to ensure that every bride, from UK size 20 to 36, finds the perfect fit. Each gown in the Portrait range features

LOVE represents a ‘back to basics’ approach to bridal design. Graceful, youthful, pretty, and timeless, it is the younger sister in the Enzoani family. Dixie is a real delight with 3D mikado floral embroidered appliqués on tulle and stretch georgette.

customised tailoring and construction to ensure that a bride feels completely supported, comfortable and confident.

From thoughtful lace placement to modified back necklines and straps, the updated details on Portrait styles are designed to both contour brides’ figures as well as further enhance their individual, unique beauty. Interestingly, Portrait designs originate from some of the best-selling couture styles across the Enzoani, ÉLYSÉE, and PEN·LIV labels and offer a range

of options for brides seeking those signature aesthetics. This is the perfect example of a success story in the making – taking the best of proven winners and re-imagining them for a new audience.

We thought we’d pick our favourites across the Bridal Collective portfolio –and that was more of a challenge than we imagined. So much to consider... and so much to love.

To find out more, call +44(0)1792 586615 or email info@bridal-collective.co.uk

ENZOANI embraces vintage-inspired glamour in the spectacular figure-hugging Urvashi gown, with its removable jacket and stunning keyhole back. It features sequin corded floral lace, Chantilly lace, glitter tulle, tulle and chiffon lining.

PORTRAIT offers ten meticulously handcrafted styles in the newest collection. Amina shows off curves beautifully, while giving the best possible support. Floral embroidered lace, Chantilly lace, tulle, chiffon, crepe and jersey lining.

ÉLYSÉE is inspired by the pure lines and perfect proportions of Neoclassical art and architecture with precise shapes enriched with precious details to accentuate the figure while elongating and contouring the body. Florentina is simply wonderful, romantic and contemporary.

PRIVÉ makes its own statement of romance and refined sophistication and Elaine is a perfect example of the sense of style that forms the personality of this skilfullycurated collection. Sequin baroque lace is a special feature, along with corded floral lace. And the train is jaw-dropping.

PEN.LIV features meticulous detailing. Caitlin is a glamorous sheath gown that features floral appliqués and beaded geometric lace on glitter tulle. As you’d expect, the overall effect shimmers and shines. The lining is in tulle and chiffon, which makes for comfort and movement.

PETA’S PLACE

It’s nice to see a clear trend breaking out, although I don’t really like banding that word about too much, but after Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, White Gallery and Harrogate, the corset top seems to be having a massive resurge in popularity

It’s the one look most designers have in their arsenal. Whether heavily boned, lightly structured or just a classic bustier with a dusting of support, corsets are back. This direction is the complete opposite to the off-the-peg, boho feel that is still floating around. I feel a bit of structure and glamour is good for the bridal industry, it enables the talent of designers to be celebrated.

Over to Peta

A great corset top requires skill from the whole design team – it needs to be cut, shaped, and constructed to perfection – no one want to see cups that don’t fit; I hated that trend of wearing a bikini top with your underbust hanging out, which reminds me, Love Island is back.

When working on shoots, I’ve always been grateful for a lace up corset top, although I always moaned about doing them up. And don’t get me started on having them in fashion shows – a backstage nightmare – and as for covered buttons, they must be keeping nail saloons in business.

Not only does a lace-back corset fit many a model (it’s amazing the variation in size 10!), but it’s a stylist’s dream to be able to adjust that top without the use of a bulldog clip. Especially now, when we are doing 360-degree pictures and videos of everything, it’s more important than ever today that a dress can be adjusted to flow easily.

Over the past few years, I noticed that more of the actual corset is on show, harking back a bit to John Paul

Gautier celebrating underwear as outwear. The traditional corset dress is becoming more popular due to the glamour, the style and subtle shaping. At BBFW, companies like Wona Concept showed corsets with the insides on the outside, so to speak.

I’m very fond of the external corset where you celebrate the construction and the addition of a peplum with its nod to the 80s. Plenty of designers are embracing the trend, including Isabel Sanchis, Helena, Eva Lendel. In New York, Idan Cohen and Ines Di Santo added a peplum or two, this is a direction that will go on... where the brave lead, others will follow.

A good corset will hold your bust in place and slim the waist. Never fear, we’re not going back to the Victorian period when winching, literally, into a dress restricted your breathing, eating and drinking. It’s not going to happen; there will be no fashionably passing out with a touch of the vapours down the aisle, no whalebones or heavy metal stays. Manufacturing today is light but firm.

Looking into the history of corsets it’s alleged that the concept was introduced by Catherine De Medici in the 1500s and that by the mid 16th-century they were worn by most European men and women, and made of whalebone and linen. So, are we going to see grooms in corsets? Maybe not at every wedding!

By the 18th century, the corset was designed to make the waist of the wearer small compared to the hips, leading to the birth of the hourglass figure in the late 19th century. Gradually, during the First World

War through to the 20s, the corset got more natural and around the 40s and 50s became shorter and less constricting.

There’s something about shape and structure that gives the wearer an extra bit of sass. I welcome a revival of the whole Dior New Look with a small waist and a flared skirt; I love the romance of it. Plus, it is very Hollywood.

Whilst packing up my house I found and tried to try on my wedding dress corset. When I got married, my waist was 22 inches. I could do up my

corset on my thigh now, ribs would have to be removed to even get close to closing it.

The names

Structure designer superstars like Kate Halfpenny, Suzanne Neville, Sassi Holford and Vivienne Westwood have championed the corset for many a year now – they all celebrate curves beautifully; in fact British designers have always been very good with shape. Maybe it’s something in our DNA?

In the same way, I particularly

THE NEW CLASSICS

like to look at all the long-line corsets celebrated in Spain and South America, from the likes of Pronovias, Alyne, Eva Lendel, Karen Willis Holmes, The Atelier, Sophie et Viola and Mori Lee who all showed the ever-popular mermaid/fishtail dresses.

That long line can hold you in, but a note of caution here... it can’t be too long, otherwise going to the loo would be a nightmare. Sorry, I can’t help being practical but there’s nothing worse than being dependent on someone unlacing/lacing you so you can have a quick pee – maybe

that’s what Maids of Honour are for!

I remember the first time I saw Berta’s collection in New York. I couldn’t actually believe that people would wear such sheer beaded lace garments; shows how much I knew! I have been proved massively wrong... they’ve always celebrated the dainty, slightly exposed corset and I have to admire them and fellow designers for that Marilyn Monroe look. There’s something very beautiful about a well-placed crystal and sequin – it’s certainly not for the wallflower and it definitely shouts red carpet.

For the beaded showgirl style,

look no further than Berta’s Joli Poli. Designers celebrating structure include Mia Mia, Rivini, Allure, and Galia Lahav; Mori Lee showed flesh between boning to make a real feature of the corset top.

We seem to be getting more and more designers crossing over from bridal to celebrity dressing – think Sassi Halford, Josephine Scott, Suzanne Neville who seem to be the go-to for stylists whose clients are Strictly Come Dancing contenders, TV presenters, singers and actresses. It’s a giant step forward for credibility in the fashion world.

Highlights

I’ve always been one for piling on the flowers. When you’ve got a big skirt there’s something nice about adding extra layers of detail on top of a corset to celebrate a tiny waist. And by using 3-D flowers, as seen at Katy Corso and Viktor & Rolf, you can afford to have a bit of excess around the bust and hips to balance everything out. A corset top and a big skirt instantly turn you into a 1950s Vogue model or debutante.

The back of a corseted dress strikes me as very romantic, too,

whether it’s laced up or exposed boning. As I mentioned before, lacing is a brilliant tool for the wedding day waist expansion; you start off the normal size in the morning, by the time you’ve eaten your way through that very expensive meal you’ve paid for, a little bit of a breathing space may be needed, so you can slack off the laces... what a wonderful relief.

That’s why I love an elasticated waist trouser when going out to dinner. There’s nothing worse than being restricted. You look like a toothpaste tube squeezed in the middle. Talking of which, that’s one

thing that I feel should be included in any wedding vows – never mind love and obey, you need to know where your partner squeezes the toothpaste. It could tip you over the edge later on in married life, along with toilet seat up and down, and I think it’s reasonable to find out how somebody loads the dishwasher and how long they take?

Living in my rented house until my new house is ready – do I miss my dishwasher? My goodness, yes. I always intend to put on the Marigolds but I forget, in the same way I intend to use hand cream, but I only do it

KATHERINE TASH
SASSI HOLFORD

at the wrong time, just before I plunge my hands back in water.

And talking of Marigolds, there’s something quite nice about a long pair of gloves or sleeves with a corset dress – or is that just me in a 50s vibe?

My conclusions? Corsets add structure, glamour and style, and maybe, just maybe, will bring more brides away from the high street and back into bridal boutiques.

ADD A PEPLUM

LONG LINE

DOWN UNDER: DELICIOUSLY DIFFERENT

Showing at Bridal Week Harrogate, 8-10 September, will be the skilfully edited collections from one of Australia’s biggest names. Here’s what you need to know about three great labels

ESSENSE OF AUSTRALIA

When launched: 1996

Personality: Timeless, romantic and unmistakably modern gowns for the bride who dreams of a traditional, memorable wedding day.

Number of pieces in new collection: 27

Size range: The Essense of Australia gowns are available in sizes 2-34, with many gowns available up to a size 36 as part of the company’s EveryBody/EveryBride programme.

Fabrics and colours: Mikado, chiffon, tulle, organza, satin, metallic jacquard, French Blue

Embellishments: Sequins, beading, pearls

Detachables: Shawl, shoulder straps, sleeves

Recommended retail price range in the UK: £1,399- £1,999

Contact details for UK retailers interested in finding out more: https://www. essensedesigns.com/retailer-inquiry-form/

MARTINA LIANA

When launched: 2011

Personality: Luxurious gowns designed for the bride who wants a chic, runway-inspired bridal look.

Number of pieces in new collection: 19

Size range: Sizes 2-26, with many gowns available up to a size 30

Fabrics and colours: Mikado, silk jacquard, liquid crepe, satin, tulle

Embellishments: Sequins, beading, pearls

Detachables: Sleeves, bows, lace topper

Recommended retail price range in the UK: £1,599- £4,699

Contact details for UK retailers interested in finding out more: https://www.essensedesigns.com/ retailer-inquiry-form/

STELLA YORK

When launched: 2013

Personality: Dreamy, glamorous gowns designed for the bride who isn’t afraid of the spotlight

Number. of pieces in new collection: 23

Size range: Available in sizes 2-34, with many gowns available up to a size 36 as part of our EveryBody/ EveryBride programme.

Fabrics and colours: Mikado, satin, crepe, tulle, chiffon, organza

Embellishments: Sequins, beading, pearls

Detachables:

Sleeves, shoulder straps

Recommended retail price range in the UK: £1,099£1,499

Contact details for UK retailers interested in finding out more: https:// www.essensedesigns.com/ retailer-inquiry-form/

IN FASHION

The 11th edition of Harrogate Fashion Week is the initiative’s largest to date, featuring more than 250 brands for three days of glorious buying

Harrogate Fashion Week (HFW) is now the leading show in the fashion trade calendar with the largest collection of womenswear brands under one roof, spanning daywear, occasionwear, eveningwear, footwear, and accessories. The show, 4-6 August at the Harrogate Convention Centre, promises some serious sizzle as the latest collections move into the spotlight. If as a bridalwear retailer, you deal with mums, maids and wedding guests, this is the must-attend event to discover new names, new trends, and inventive collections with a special personality.

So, what can you expect? This prime fashion event gives you the opportunity to mix business and pleasure with the show venue located in the heart of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate, known for its chic hotels, bustling centre, warm hospitality, and of course, its bridal heart.

Bridalwear retailers know the town well, love it for what if offers, and won’t want to miss the chance to spend time there, especially when looking for new collections that will broaden their offering.

Save the date now and plan your trip early to ensure you get the best accommodation and travel deals on offer, and a chance to book your favourite restaurants.

And now, here’s a glimpse of the show visitors’ essential need-to-knows:

Opening Hours:

Sunday 4 August 9.30am – 6.00pm

Monday 5 August 9.30am – 6.00pm

Tuesday 6 August 9.30am – 3.30pm

Venue:

Harrogate Convention Centre, Ripon Road, Harrogate, HG1 5LA – Entrances 4 & 5 – look out for the purple bows!

Travelling To Harrogate

Whether by road, rail or air, getting to the Harrogate Convention Centre couldn’t be easier, as you almost certainly know.

u The Harrogate Convention Centre has a large car park, use postcode HG1 5LA and nearly all the local hotels have provisions for parking.

u There are regular trains from London to Harrogate with LNER, a 25% discount is available on all LNER routes for Harrogate Fashion Week guests, check out the website for further details. You can easily access Harrogate via train from all major UK cities, with an easy change at either York or Leeds.

u Leeds Bradford airport is only a short 20-minute taxi ride away and offers flights multiple times a day to Belfast and Dublin.

u Head to www.harrogatefashionweek.com/visit for full travel details and LNER discount.

Accommodation

With more fashion boutiques and independent store owners than ever before travelling from across the UK to visit HFW, the organisers have linked up with local accommodation experts Reservation Highway who will be happy to find you a hotel for your brief. This link will take you to the hotel list with special rates agreed: www.harrogatefashionweek.com/fash24

Out of Hours

When is a buying trip like a mini holiday? When it’s in Harrogate! This highly-renowned North Yorkshire town has so much to offer HFW visitors, with a safe, friendly and vibrant town centre to soak up and explore in

the evenings. Brimming with an eclectic mix of highly recommended eateries and bars to socialise at and unwind, there really is something for all. From fine dining and fusion restaurants to gastro pubs and grills, plus a plethora of welcoming bars, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

2024 Brands

Over 250 brands will be strutting their stuff next month in what will be the biggest special occasionwear collective under one roof.

Occasionwear includes brands bridalwear retailers are already familiar with, and those that will be a delightful surprise: Expect to see Veromia, Luis Civit, Linea Raffaelli, Kevan Jon, Carla Ruis, Cassandra, Coco Doll, Rosa Clara, Ella Boo, John Charles, Gabriela Sanchez, Richard Designs, Fely Campo and Special Day Prom.

Footwear to complement the outfits comes from special collections, including those from Lotus, The Perfect Occasion, Carmela, Lunar, Valentino, and XTI.

And don’t forget those all-important hats and accessories – look out for Envy, Snoxells, Tempest, Failsworth, J Bees, Max & Ellie, The Niche Collection, and Accessories by Park Lane.

All those extra treats

u The ever popular Prosecco Bar will run a free Happy Hour each day.

u The Fashion Café is where to be to celebrate the first day of the show with free drinks, compliments of the organisers.

u And then there’s the HFW Party on the evening of Monday 5 August, 7.30pm for 8.00pm. Held in the Conservatory at the Harrogate Convention Centre, this popular event includes the drinks reception, threecourse dinner with wine, coffee and dancing until late. Tickets are £66 + VAT contact kirsty@harrogatefashionweek.com to secure your space as places are limited and sell out quickly!

Getting your ticket Register at www.harrogatefashionweek.com for your free fast track pass.

To be added to the HFW database and receive regular updates via email send your details to: wendy@harrogatefashionweek.com

8 reasons to join the UK Retail Bridalwear Association today

The Retail Bridalwear Association (RBA) represents retail bridal shop owners and managers and aims to support and promote the interests of its members, providing networking opportunities, industry insights, practical resources and tools and promote best practices. Laura Dixon on why you should join

1 Recognition and Prestige: Being a member of a reputable organisation like the RBA can enhance your credibility and reputation in the industry and is an excellent marketing hook for your customers. It demonstrates your commitment to excellence, professionalism, and continuous improvement.

2 Networking and community: As a member of the RBA, you will gain access to a vast network of industry professionals, including designers, retailers and suppliers. Networking with like-minded individuals can lead to valuable collaborations, partnerships, and knowledgesharing.

Joining the association will connect you with a community of peers who understand the unique challenges of running a bridal business. Sharing experiences, insights and advice with fellow members can offer valuable support and guidance during tough times and be uplifting during the good times.

We have a very active WhatsApp group for all our members to join in or just lurk and soak up the knowledge and support of the members.

Imagine some of the tales we tell in there!!

3 VIP Lounge at trade shows: We all love a free lunch, don’t we! RBA members enjoy exclusive access to a private VIP lounge at Harrogate Convention Centre, offering a place to relax and debrief away from the hustle and bustle of the halls and enjoy refreshments, bubbles, lunch and sweet treats every day of the show.

4 RBA awards evening: 2023 saw the return of our exclusive industry awards since pausing for Covid. Wow, did we come back with a bang! A sell-out event that celebrated RBA suppliers and retailers and the fabulous raffle went down a storm with prizes such as designer handbags and purses, ear pods, designer perfume. Watch this space for more news on our 2024 awards in September.

5 Online portal and resources: Our members enjoy exclusive access to our portal on our website where they can access extensive resources from HR and recruitment guidance and digital templates, legal contracts, terms of business, bitesize HR webinar series, Health and Safety documents and templates and training replays.

6 Training and development: We invite members to join us in person for training events such as luxury sales training, website and marketing training, SEO training and much more. All with industry experts. Events are recorded and added to our portal for those unable to participate in person.

7 Exclusive Discounts and Offers:

As a member, you may be eligible for special discounts on products, services, and events that can help you reduce costs and improve your bottom line.

8 Advocacy and Representation:

The RBA works to advocate for the interests of its members and the broader retail bridal sector. By joining, you can contribute to shaping industry policies, initiatives, and regulations that impact your business. You also join our online membership directory where brides can find you easily.

If you are a UK bridal retail shop that has been trading for at least one year from dedicated retail premises, then read more and start your application www.rbaltd.org.uk. It’s not too late to join us and be a part of all the exciting plans that we have in store for our members for 2024!

BRIDESPEAK

Weddings are a real expense and many couples are looking at ways of controlling their spend especially now with increased costs of living and possible tax hikes on the agenda. We asked brides if they are cutting down on their dress spend

“We have a total budget, carefully worked out by my cautious other half, and he has actually told me what I can spend on my dress!!!! My parents have come to the rescue and will be topping up that none-togenerous allowance and I have said yes to the dress in a local boutique. When I told the sales lady the story, she laughed and laughed, talked to the owner and they are contributing a veil which is so nice. I will be recommending that same shop to any of my friends now.”

“I am one of the lucky ones with, thanks to family and my own high-earning job, few concerns over the wedding costs. I tend to buy designer labels anyway, and my wedding dress will be no different. I really don’t want to mention what I intend to spend. That said, I have already arranged with a charity that I support, that they will have my dress after the event and auction it. If they raise a quarter of what I am spending, there will be real benefits for the research work they are doing for women’s health.”

Christina “What I don’t understand is all these conversations about what one can afford, etc. Most shops - and I have visited a few - seem to have dresses that cover all tastes and all budgets, so no one needs to suffer because they have less to spend. My advice to others? Don’t try on gowns you can’t afford to begin with - that way you won’t be disappointed. And ask shops what price range they cover before you make an appointment.”

Ali

“I know I should be sensible right now, but I was sensible when Bryan proposed and I started a little savings venture, popping small amounts on one side, quietly. Having put off our wedding twice so far, I have had more time to top up that little pot and now have enough for that dream dress. So, it doesn’t feel that I am actually dipping into joint monies and yes, I have tried on a few dresses and have my heart set on one. And I will have it, no matter what.”

“I have dreamed about my big day for years – long before I actually met my Mr Right. But everything seemed easier then and I suppose I thought about the glitz and the glamour, not the hard, down-to-earth facts... and the figures that go with that. Our current situation in terms of what we can spend is taking away much of the pleasure of the planning stages; our mortgage is going up and our income is not, for starters. Having to watch our pennies is affecting the wedding dress conversation dramatically. How can I go out and spend big time on a gown I will wear just once? I have to radically change my thinking now and see what special deals are available; if I could rent a dress then I would certainly consider that option.”

A Clear Signal

Now that businesses need to keep in contact pretty much round the clock, having a good mobile phone signal at all times is vital. And it cannot be taken for granted even in one’s own premises, let alone at a remote country church or stately home. Chris Partridge tells you how

There are many things you can do to get connected and boost signal strength, ranging from simply moving around to installing high tech signal boosters. One of the most obvious is simply to invest in a high-end phone, as manufacturers of budget phones tend to skimp on the wireless system and the antenna. Getting a 5G phone will also offer better reception in cities because 5G is designed for built-up environments.

Here is a handy checklist of the other things you can do.

1 Check the phone’s settings

Smartphones often make assumptions about how they need to operate,

sometimes to comply with regulations, sometimes to stop your battery draining too fast or to maximise your chances of connecting. The most common culprits are Airplane Mode and Mobile Data.

Airplane Mode switches off the cellular system and usually WiFi and Bluetooth as well, originally over fears they could interfere with a plane’s navigation systems but nowadays to protect mobile phone systems in the country you are flying over.

Mobile Data switches off the data channel to protect your wallet - going over your allowance can be expensive. However, switching mobile data on can help establish a signal.

And you should invest in an adequate data allowance anyway if you do a lot of

business on the go.

A little-known trick is to turn Airplane Mode off and on again a few times. This forces the phone to search for the best possible signal and can make things better.

To switch modes on or off, swipe down from the top-right of the display on an iPhone, or swipe down from the top on an Android device. Then, make sure that Airplane Mode is disabled, and Mobile Data is enabled.

If your phone is in a power-saving mode, then you should disable this, too. Occasionally, aggressive power-saving measures can impact your network performance.

It can also help to try switching between 4G and 5G networks, if you have a 5G phone. Sometimes, if one of the networks is congested you might have better luck on the other.

2

Go up

Because the best signal strength needs a line-of-sight connection with the cell tower, the signal is generally better the higher you are. Try to get to an upper floor or up a hill if you’re outside. This may also take you out of the shadow of tall buildings.

3 Use Bluetooth headphones

If the best signal is found upstairs or

next to the shop window, you can leave the phone there and use Bluetooth headphones so you can sit at your desk or work station when you call.

4 Hold the phone right

Hold your phone upright and try to avoid blocking the antenna which is usually located in the upper half of the phone. Also use a case that doesn’t obstruct the antenna - cheapo online products can be prone to this.

5 Keep the software up to date

Software updates often include improvements to signal reception and connectivity.

6 Use Wi-Fi Calling

If your carrier supports it, enable Wi-Fi calling to make and receive calls over your Wi-Fi network and broadband connection instead of relying on a cellular signal. It is exactly the same as using the cellular network, with the same number and everything. The

cost is also the same as if you were on cellular (after all, the network uses their system to connect the call). This can be very useful if you have reliable broadband but a horrible mobile signal.

7 Switch Carrier

Some carriers have better coverage in certain areas than others. Check the coverage maps of different carriers and consider switching if you can get better coverage in your location.

8 Install a Signal Booster

If you’ve tried all the above ploys without success, then you might want to try investing in a mobile signal booster, an outside antenna wired to a booster/repeater and an antenna which rebroadcasts the signal inside the premises.

Signal boosters tend to be expensive, but may be necessary if you have to cover an office suite or warehouse, but there are consumer-

grade products available at lower cost. The first step is to check if your service provider sells a signal booster. If they do, you can be assured it will work with the frequencies that your network uses (they can vary).

If your network does not sell a signal booster at a reasonable price, take a look at independent suppliers. They will need to know what frequencies your network uses in your area: the providers’ coverage maps provide this information. This is particularly important if you want to connect to the local 5G network.

Online supplier mysignalboosters. com/uk/shop/ sells a home signal booster for voice calls for just £165 and a booster for both voice and data at £630. Prices at myamplifiers. com/home-booster start at £145 for a simple booster. Prices do not include installation, of course, although it is not difficult to do it yourself if you are happy drilling a few holes.

We bring you information of new legalities that could affect your business. Advice from the experts really matters...

WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL RTVS AND DISTRIBUTORS

In May/June issue of Wedding Trader, we looked at the RTV (Return to Vendor) issue in the context of agents and their principals. Now we consider what they mean for suppliers, distributors, and the distributor’s customers. Hannah McCullagh and Stephen Sidkin of Fox Williams LLP explain the legalities

In the context of a distributor relationship, RTV covers the situation in which the distributor and the purchaser (often a retailer) agree on the return of goods supplied by the distributor.

Sometimes, a distributor and purchaser will agree at the outset that goods will be supplied on a RTV basis. In this situation the purchaser will have the right to return unsold stock to the distributor on the terms agreed. Correspondingly, the distributor will be bound to take back such RTV’d stock on the terms agreed. Often, however, the RTV terms are not agreed before the goods are supplied and in this situation usually the retailer will contact the distributor and, depending on the strength of their respective bargaining positions, an agreement is reached to take back stock on specified terms.

Key commercial issues for distributors considering RTVs

There are a number of commercial issues for distributors – often accentuated for those supplying a retail industry where seasonality is a key consideration – to consider when contemplating agreeing to a RTV with a stockist as follows:

• The commercial relationship with

the stockist: How important is it to maintain a high percentage sellthrough? Will agreeing to a RTV this season result in a better order for the next season?

• Increased administrative burden and workload: In an RTV scenario, distributors are often responsible for managing the logistics of collecting and storing returned stock.

• Higher operational costs: Managing returns according to supplier requirements can result in additional costs, such as shipping, handling, insurance, and restocking fees.

• Cash flow issues: The return of stock can have significant negative effects on a distributor’s cash flow, particularly where the distributor must refund its customers for returned stock on short notice. Furthermore, distributors taking back and storing stock will usually do so without receiving any payment for handling the logistics of doing so.

• Space and storage issues: Distributors might need additional space to store returned items, which can be another logistical challenge and costs drain.

• Inability to sell returned stock: Distributors carefully project stock levels in order to maximise profits and

manage stock levels. But it is possible for distributors to be in a position where they simply cannot offload the returned stock before the end of a season. Where this is the case, it might be possible for the distributor to sell-back stock to the supplier at a discounted rate, however it will only be in a position to do this where (i) the supplier agrees to this on a caseby-case basis; or (ii) the distributor and supplier have agreed that this will be possible pursuant to their distributorship agreement. But whilst agreeing to RTVs with stockists is sometimes unavoidable, or is done in order to strengthen the relationship with customers, distributors should also think carefully about their agreements with their suppliers.

RTVs and suppliers – can restrictions be imposed on distributors?

Whilst maintaining a good relationship – and so agreeing to a RTV (possibly albeit reluctantly) – with a stockist is critical for a distributor, what of the distributor’s distributorship agreement with the supplier? Is it possible for a supplier to restrict a distributor agreeing to a RTV with a stockist? It is the case that both UK and EU

competition laws are concerned with suppliers placing restrictions on their distributors as to the price at which and where and to whom the distributors can resell the goods purchased from the suppliers. In this respect it is well known that a restriction on a distributor’s resale price will, at best, be problematic. Less well known is where there is an exclusive distributorship agreement in place the supplier can, in broad terms, restrict the distributor making what are called active sales to customers reserved to the supplier or allocated by the supplier to other exclusive distributors.

But what of RTVs?

It is possible to envisage a scenario in which a supplier restricts a distributor’s ability to agree an RTV with a stockist, which could amount to a restriction on the distributor’s ability to determine its sale price –particularly an RTV which is agreed by distributor and stockist as part of the original sale contract between them. However, usually RTVs are only agreed by distributor and stockist after the stockist has experienced poor selling conditions and therefore it is likely that such a price restriction would only emerge at this time – in other words, some time after the original sale by the distributor to the stockist. As a result:

• The relevant competition law language would need to be interpreted very widely for there to be an infringement; and

• Therefore a restriction by a supplier of the distributor’s ability to agree an RTV with a stockist would not fall foul of competition law.

In contrast, if the supplier was to restrict the distributor’s ability to determine its minimum sale price when reselling RTV’d stock to another purchaser (for example, a discount retailer), this would amount to an infringement of competition law.

As mentioned, where there is an exclusive distributorship agreement in place the supplier can, in broad terms, restrict the distributor making what are called active sales to customers reserved to the supplier or allocated by the supplier to other exclusive distributors.

Whilst there is no reported case law on the point, a restriction on the distributor from making active sales of RTV’d stock to customers reserved to the supplier or allocated by the supplier to other exclusive distributors should also not result in a problem under competition law. However, this highlights the need for suppliers to ensure that such restrictions are well drafted in their distributorship agreements!

Performance obligations and distributors – a termination payment?

Finally, distributorship agreements usually impose a large number of obligations on distributors, in particular with regards to performance. From the supplier’s perspective the distributorship agreement should have as its objects:

• maximising the distributor’s performance

• minimising the supplier’s exposure In this context consideration should be given by distributors as to whether agreeing to an RTV may affect achievement of a performance obligation such as a minimum purchase requirement and, in turn, the right of a supplier to terminate the distributorship agreement and avoid being liable under:

• English law for damages for wrongful termination; or

• the laws of other countries (for example, Germany or South Korea) for a compensatory payment for the loss of the distributorship.

Hannah McCullagh is an associate and Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP

(www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.agentlaw.co.uk; www.distributorlaw.co.uk; www.sustainabilitylaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

“One of my brides, who I got to know well in recent months, came up with an interesting suggestion – a cocktail party/get-together for bridesmaids in an early evening, so after work, with a mini fashion show of the different occasionwear collections I am carrying. I thought I would give that a go and I have to say the number of sales as a result was way above my expectations. What was interesting was the girls working as groups and arriving at shared decisions having tried different dresses on, and also taking photos to send to other maids in their party who were not present. I am going to offer this ‘service’ to other brides now. Incidentally, the bride herself was not present, which I thought was a pluspoint and gave the maids real freedom to made decisions.”

“Business is tough right now, scarily so. I am getting lots of appointments and very few no-shows, but I am not getting conversions to sales. In fact, what I am seeing is uncertainty among brides and I don’t know if it is a money-related thing or if they simply aren’t convinced that what I have on my rails is right for them. Are others finding it a struggle currently?”

“It is so sad that some of the big names in the business – names who have been there throughout my career in bridal – are going into retirement. I can’t help wondering if they are disenchanted with the new world we are all trying to deal with. Attitudes and the industry itself have changed beyond recognition in recent years.”

“Every other thing you read mentions ‘sustainability’, but surely this is something that is a long way off when it comes to wedding gowns. I would like to hear what the key names are doing to meet the growing demand for fabrics and processes that do not challenge modern thinking. I had a bride in recently who went to lengths to tell us how concerned she is for the health and wellbeing of the planet, but that as a wedding is a “one off” her choice of dress didn’t have to meet any “modern standards!!!!”

And finally

Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“Has anyone offered hair and makeup as an additional wedding-day service and how did you ‘sell’ the concept?”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

SPOSA BY VENI INFANTINO

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