Farm to Table:

CHEF / CO - OWNER SOPHIE MICHELL ON GOING LOCAL WITH INGREDIENTS

Sophie Michell and I met the day before the Local & Co. reopening in October. The restaurant closed a month prior for expansion—including an open fire grill and smoker for serving tacos, grilled fish, smoked meats, and burgers by the beach.

— By Kylee Ross

Both floors of the restaurant were crawling with staff restocking the vintage rum bar, prepping locally sourced ingredients, and preparing the kitchen. A small group of people, including co-founder Julie McNeel, sat near the Queen Street door typing on laptops and answering a steady stream of incoming calls.

When Michell entered the front door, I instinctively lifted my gaze from my notepad. I could hear the buzz of “hellos” and discreet meeting invitations. Contractors and other members of her team surrounded her like a swarm of perfectly coordinated worker bees. Without missing a beat, Michell responded to every query, comment, and confirmation—but never stopped moving through the restaurant.

By the time she made her way to me, I felt oddly at home. Sitting amongst the exposed brick walls, ornate carpets, and plush chairs, I had the sense I would be well taken care of— even while the restaurant was closed to guests.

We took a side door to access the steel stairs outside and passed the upper patio (offering a view of the ocean for private dinners) and made our way to the cosy upstairs kitchen (where Michell and other guest chefs host private dining experiences for small groups).

We sat across from a few people recording videos for social media announcing the restaurant’s reopening. Once they finished, we eased into our conversation. I wanted to start at the beginning. Michell is a well-established chef who has trained and cooked in Michelinstarred restaurants in the United Kingdom and made a name for herself in TV and food writing. It isn’t every day that you get to ask someone with that kind of resume how it all started.

When I asked what persuaded her to say “yes” to packing up her life in the UK for a position in Barbados, she said it was “quite random”. She had stopped working in kitchens and was the Food and Drink Director for Byron Burgers UK. “I always talked about having a seafront restaurant where I could scuba dive on the weekend”, she says. “That was kind of my passion: the sea and conservation.” When the opportunity to travel to the island to consult on a restaurant for friends Julie and Ian McNeel arose, she jumped on it. This was in February 2020, so while in Barbados, Michell and her husband had to make a decision for their family. Would they travel back to the UK or stay in Barbados for the remainder of the pandemic lockdown? They eventually opted to stay indefinitely, and Michell joined Local & Co. as chef / co-owner.

Our conversation then pivoted to her start as a chef. “I think like anything, my choice to become a chef was impacted by lots of little things that happened to me”, Michell says. After leaving school at 14, she got her first job in a gastropub. “Looking back at that very first job in the countryside in Somerset, I think even though it was just a casual pub, I learned straightaway how to cook from scratch”, Michell says while reminiscing about the lessons that have stayed with her from that first job. She mentions this because everything at Local & Co. is made from scratch every day. “And farm to table produce was already at the forefront of my mind then.”

This naturally brings us to chatting about the ethos at Local & Co.: Eat well. Do good. Michell tells me that 90% of the products used in restaurants and hotels in Barbados are imported. Michell and the team set out to “turn that on its head”.

By actively choosing to support Bajan artisans, farmers, butchers, and fisherfolk, Local & Co. uses 80% locally sourced ingredients. “I don't think anyone in the world should be planning business without having sustainability, local economy, and eco-practices at the forefront, because that's the only way we can function realistically, consciously and ethically”, she says. Now, the restaurant is Blue-verified by Oceanic Global for a sustainability plan for single-use plastic, waste management, and water efficiency.

Farm to table cooking offers constantly refreshing options for the menu of the main restaurant and the beach grill. And what to expect from a meal at Local & Co. depends on several factors beyond the chef’s control. As Michell puts it, “We are totally governed by what the farmers can grow, and the farmers are totally governed by the weather and the conditions.” The meals are also governed by Michell’s latest inspirations. When we speak, the star ingredients are cassava flour, sea purslane, and organic meat from Oink & Moo with most emphasis on cassava. All the tortillas for tacos and other imaginative dishes, tart cases, and dredge for the staple fried chicken bites with chadon beni aïoli and smoked tomato ketchup, are made from scratch with a blend of the flour. “We take influence from the Caribbean and from places which are similar in agricultural zone: South America, Mexico, the Caribbean, Southeast Asia have all got the same sort of produce. So, playing with those flavours is quite fun.”

With that, I wrap up the interview and ask if Michell would show me around. I snap a few photos of the impeccably styled area where we were sitting and, as we walk down the stairs, the beach grill. Michell points to something. “That’s actually my smoker right there”, she says. “There’s nothing better than sitting on a beach and having an amazing grilled piece of meat or grilled fish, you know?” And that’s where Local & Co. is headed next: toward the addition of more casual dishes, with the same quality of local ingredients as the fine dining menu, to eat by the ocean.

Famous for its Sunday lunch buffet, the Atlantis has developed a strong local following over the years for its ABC cuisine (All Bajan Cuisine).

Opened in 1884 and recently renovated, this historic hotel is gracefully perched at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, in the midst of the most picturesque and perhaps the most photographed part of Barbados.

BREAKFAST:

Monday to Sunday, 8:00 to 10:00 a.m.

ALL-DAY DINING:

Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, 12:00 noon to 7:00 p.m., and Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, 12:00 noon to 3:30 p.m.

BAR:

Monday to Sunday, 10:00 a.m. till...

DINING: Open-air

ATTIRE: Casual

Appetisers

Caesar Salad — 36.00 crispy romaine leaves, garlic croutons, cherry tomatoes, boiled egg, Parmesan

Caprese lnsalata — 35.00 roasted pine nuts, arugula, balsamic dressing

Atlantis Salad — 38.00 mixed leaves, cherry tomatoes, honey-roasted cashews, quinoa, caramelised apples, raisins

— with grilled chicken breast add 16.00

— with grilled flying fish add 20.00

— with grilled shrimp add 24.00

Thai Mini Crab Cakes — 40.00 red Thai aïoli, orange-poppy seed jelly

Bajan Fish Cakes — 26.00

Marie Rose sauce, garden salad

Panko-crusted Shrimp — 38.00 wasabi mayo, Asian slaw, tamarind dip

Crispy Jerk Calamari — 34.00 mango mayo, arugula, lemon wedge

Grilled Octopus — 34.00 pickled cucumber, wakame, roasted tomato, cumin-honey mayo

Entr Es

Catch of the Day — 66.00

8-oz. fresh fish, grilled or pan-fried, basilwhipped mashed potatoes, smoked salmon cream, sautéed leeks

Tent Bay Fish and Chips — 60.00 deep-fried fish, French fries, coleslaw, tartare sauce

Seared Tuna — 58.00 deep-fried blue cheese polenta, wilted spinach, aubergine and sun-dried tomato salsa

Pan-roasted Pork Tenderloin — 58.00 crushed fried plantain, sautéed asparagus, apple purée

-> Go to:

Menu Barbados/ Atlantis

Scan the code to find the location, get directions, make a reservation, and more.

8-oz. Black Pepper-crusted

Sirloin Steak — 74.00 home-cut fries, steamed vegetables, red onion jam, garlic butter

Penne or Linguine Pasta — 42.00 Alfredo, or basil pesto , or marinara , or bolognese

— with grilled chicken breast add 16.00 — with grilled flying fish add 20.00 — with grilled shrimp add 24.00

Rogan Josh Curry poppadums, basmati rice, mango chutney

— vegetables 50.00 — chicken 55.00

— seafood 58.00

— shrimp 60.00

Atlantis Angus Beef Burger — 48.00 brioche, jalapeño mayo, crispy bacon, sautéed mushrooms, Cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, French fries or garden salad

Vegan Burger — 42.00 edamame, chickpeas, lettuce, tomatoes, vegan mayo, French fries or garden salad

Thin-crust Margherita Pizza — 38.00 — add pepperoni, red onions, mushrooms, flying fish, chicken, olives 5.00/each

Desserts

Affogato — 22.00 vanilla ice cream drizzled with Lavazza espresso

Chocolate Cheesecake — 24.00 stewed berries, mango sauce

Warm Cherry Pie — 24.00 nutmeg cream, vanilla ice cream

Coconut Bread Pudding — 24.00 vanilla cream, rum and raisin ice cream

Vegan.

All prices are in Barbadian dollars and include government value added tax.

A 12.5% service charge and a 2.5% tourism product levy will be added to your bill. Prices and menu items are subject to change.

Sand Street

Speightstown

St. Peter

(246) 432–2242 www.baiabarbados.com reservations@baiabarbados.com

Baia brings the spirit of Latin America to the Caribbean through mouth-watering Peruvian-fusion food, exceptional cocktails and live entertainment, in a laid back, rustic yet luxurious setting.

They take you through a journey of vibrant and fresh flavours and textures, from Peruvian chilli, corn and smoke to coconut, chocolate and lime. Experience their ceviche, raw bar and open charcoal-grilled dishes, with the stunning backdrop of the Caribbean Sea, or let Baia’s bartenders pick something out for you from their extensive tequila list! Down on the beach deck, take in the view while sipping on a signature Baia sour or a glass of rosé, watching the sun go down as the music turns up.

Christopher Hawkesworth HEAD CHEF

LUNCH AND DINNER:

Mondays and Tuesdays, 5:00 p.m. until…, and Wednesday to Sunday, 12:00 noon until… (open Tuesdays only in December and January)

DINING: Open-air (covered and uncovered)

ATTIRE: Elegantly casual / Island chic

ENTERTAINMENT: DJ, live band, live percussionist

Entradas

Pork Crackling — 30.00 pork belly bites, rocoto jam

Baia Guacamole — 36.00 avocado, pico de gallo, sunny side up egg, crispy tortillas

Taco de Pescado al Pastor — 36.00 crispy white fish, soft taco, pineapple criolla, aji yogurt

Pollo Ajomiso al Josper — 38.00 ajomiso-marinated chicken, aji yogurt, spring onion

Patacones de Ropa Vieja — 38.00 slow-cooked pulled pork, crispy plantain patties, avocado mousse

Lamb Chops al Josper (two) — 58.00 Nikkei lamb chops, crushed cancha

Ensaladas

Tomate Salad GF — 34.00 wild tomatoes, pomegranate dressing, crushed cashews

Baia Quinoa Salad GF — 40.00 tabouleh quinoa, lime dressing, cancha

Langostino Salad — 45.00 king prawns, wild mixed salad, citrus emulsion, pineapple criolla

Raw Bar

Ceviche de Platano GF — 34.00 diced plantain, sweet potato, coconut leche de tigre, cancha

Tuna Tostada — 38.00 crispy tortilla, akami tuna, yuzu, wasabi emulsion

Tiradito de Atun — 40.00 akami tuna, rocoto leche de tigre, sweet potato purée

-> Go to: Menu Barbados/ Baia Scan the code to find the location, get directions, make a reservation, and more.

Traditional CevicheGF — 46.00 white fish, lime leche de tigre, sweet potato, choclo, plantain chifles

Mahi-mahi Japo — 46.00 cured mahi-mahi, yuzu, truffle, cherry tomatoes

Salmon Laqueado — 54.00 sashimi-grade salmon, passion fruit leche de tigre, crispy purple potato

MAR (SEA)

Pesca del Dia Tulemasi GF — 68.00 catch of the day, coconut milk, plantain purée

Pulpo AnticucheroGF — 82.00 charcoal-grilled octopus, anticucho sauce, aji amarillo purée, purple olive emulsion

Aji-glazed Salmon — 80.00 charcoal-grilled salmon, yuzu sweet potato purée, bonito flakes

Chupe de LangostaGF — Market price lobster tail, aji panca bisque, edamame, aromatic basmati rice

TIERRA (LAND)

Moqueca de Zapallito — 60.00 Brazilian courgette stew, green coconut milk, aromatic basmati rice

Papa Seca con Seta y Trufa — 72.00 stewed sun-dried Peruvian potatoes, trio of mushrooms, white truffle oil

Pollo al Josper — 75.00 charcoal-grilled Peruvian half-chicken, choclito crema (approx. 30-minute cooking time)

Nikkei Short Rib — 92.00 braised short rib, aji amarillo purée

Carnes al Josper — 130.00 10-oz. prime center-cut strip loin served with huacatay and chimichurri sauce

GF Gluten-free. Vegan. Vegetarian. Has a slight kick.

All prices are in Barbadian dollars and include government value added tax.

A 12.5% service charge will be added to your bill and a 15% to parties of 10 or more.

A 2.5% product levy will be added to your bill. Prices and menu items are subject to change.

The Pavilion

Hastings | Christ Church

(246) 629-2896 buzo.barbados@gmail.com facebook.com/buzobarbados instagram.com/buzobarbados